AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-cf
July 15, 2003 - July 25, 2003
>
Great !
Thank you,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
Gilles.Thesee wrote:
>
>Don't forget to rinse off the rosin flux with lacquer thinner after
>soldering. That stuff is designed to etch the metal at solder
>temperatures, and it will continue to corrode things forever, albeit
>slowly, if you don't remove it.
>
>
>
>Hey, I didn't know that.
>
>
On the other hand, you can buy so called "no clean" flux solder and you
do not need to clean it or water soluble flux and use water to clean it.
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
I'm using four of them without any problems?!
----- Original Message -----
From: <drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
>
> I'm glad I'm not the only one. Same thing on a Piper Archer a few months
ago, for me!
>
> Drew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>
> Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 5:23 am
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
>
> >
> > I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a
> > month ago with
> > the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally
> > wired it
> > up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
> >
> > I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS,
> > not even
> > using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and
> > index finger.
> > The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't
> > possibly have
> > put that much torque on the thing.
> >
> > The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
> > though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I
> > couldn't get the
> > nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
> >
> > I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always
> > think of
> > B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Common questions |
I'll second that! Probably the best 20 I ever spent. I was really
stumbling around with electrical systems, and would have churned out another
50-year-old electrical plan based on the information I could find. Now at
least I feel like I've considered a wide range of factors and have created a
much better job, and one that I understand completely.
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress
UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Common questions
>
> There is a FAQ. It is called 'The AeroElectric Connection' and it can be
> purchased from Bob himself or the Builders Bookstore.
>
> www.aeroelectric.com
> http://www.buildersbooks.com/aeroelectric_connection.htm?38,57
>
> I do electrical designs for a living and I learned a LOT from this book.
If
> you are planning to wire your own airplane then you MUST buy this book. At
> $31 it is a wash compared to all the grief that you will save.
>
> Besides, Bob spends a bunch of time on this list answering our questions
and
> asks nothing in return. Go buy the book.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rwilliams" <rwilliams(at)C1ama.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Common questions
>
>
> >
> > A Nuckoll's online FAQ is a superb idea!
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billie Lamb" <N254BL(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
I tightened mine with a wrench and no problem. I'd suggest you had a factory
defect and would call B&C. They will probably replace it.
Bill Lamb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
>
> I'm using four of them without any problems?!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
>
>
> >
> > I'm glad I'm not the only one. Same thing on a Piper Archer a few
months
> ago, for me!
> >
> > Drew
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>
> > Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 5:23 am
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
> >
> > >
> > > I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a
> > > month ago with
> > > the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally
> > > wired it
> > > up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
> > >
> > > I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS,
> > > not even
> > > using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and
> > > index finger.
> > > The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't
> > > possibly have
> > > put that much torque on the thing.
> > >
> > > The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
> > > though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I
> > > couldn't get the
> > > nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
> > >
> > > I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always
> > > think of
> > > B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
> > >
> > > )_( Dan
> > > RV-7 N714D
> > > http://www.rvproject.com
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
I'm using the same switch for front and rear baggage lights. Yes, they
are a fragile. I hope they last........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Dan Checkoway said:
>
>
> I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a month ago
> with
> the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally wired
> it
> up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
>
> I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS, not even
> using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and index
> finger.
> The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't possibly have
> put that much torque on the thing.
>
> The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
> though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I couldn't get
> the
> nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
>
> I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always think
> of
> B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Ashura" <ashuramj(at)hotmail.com> |
Jack
How much would a pin cost? Did you buy a TXP?
Mike
From: frequent flyer <JDHCV(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Molex Pins
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 09:49:50 -0700 (PDT)
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer
Hi, I hav3e never posted to this very valuable list
but I lurk a lot and I need 18 of the Molex pins for
my AT-50A Narco transponder. Maybe we could get enough
people that need pins to get an order together.
Jack
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
Ditto. It made easy work of all the pins needed for my TruTrak AP and
Inifinity stick grip.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Robert L. Nuckolls, III said:
>
>
>><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>>
>>Hi Bob and all,
>>
>>Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
>>airplane.
>>My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
>>But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
>>machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might
>> not
>>do.
>
> I've used the B&C crimper on the hi-density d-sub pins
> with great success.
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Problems Check List |
Hi Bob and Listers,
I'm making up a check list and want to include electrical problems. Assume LR3-C
voltage reg, dual batterys (oldest changed annually), and dual E.I. Does anyone
see a problem with the following list and/or would include anything more?
1) Indication: Low Voltage Light - ON, Field CB - IN
Likely Cause: Alternator failing
Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF, Proceed to dest. airport
2) Indication: Low Voltage Light - ON, Field CB - POPPED
Likely Cause: Voltage Reg failing
Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF, Proceed to dest. airport
3) Indication: Smoke and/or sparks in cockpit
Likely Cause: Wiring short
Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF
If smoke clears, land at closest airport
If smoke doesn't clear, Essential Bus Sw - OFF, Land at closest airport,
try turning on Essential Bus
items one at a time
4) Indication: Field CB - POPPED
Likely Cause: nuisance trip
Action: Field CB - RESET, Proceed to dest. airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
>I just wanted to raise the issue in case it's something I did -- sounds like
>I over-torqued it, even with my fingers. But even so, the switch doesn't
>come with a lock washer, nor did the barrel seem long enough to get a lock
>washer on there. Radio Smack's version does come with a lock washer (and a
>longer, fatter barrel).
Since most lock washers aren't and given the a detraction to
appearance on a panel control, consider "thread locking"
this or any other control. Locktite will be happy to sell
you various locking compounds with differing resistance
to rotation . . . or just dab some RTV sealant into
the male threads before you mount the part.
The RTV is a fair adhesive but low shear strength.
It will certainly prevent free nut rotation with vibration
as a stimulus . . . but never grip so hard that the
joint is difficult to break.
When I've mounted the S-708 on a yoke, RTV combined
with just enough torque to snug the joint has proven
satsifactory.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Book available? |
>
>Thanks ,Bob. Do you have a book on electrical systems that I could buy.
Sure. See the website at http://www.aeroelectric.com
Not only is there a book but a couple hundred megabytes
of additional support stuff you can download.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Problems Check List |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Rick -
With one alternator, I'd for darned sure land at the nearest suitable
airport on both 1) & 2)!
For 3), I assume that you have one EI on each battery buss. If this is
true, I'd get both Master and Essential buss switch off first and head for
the nearest airport. If you absolutely need a piece of equipment on, and
assuming that you have that on the Essential buss, put that switch on and
still head for the airport.
John Schroeder
>
> 1) Indication: Low Voltage Light - ON, Field CB - IN
> Likely Cause: Alternator failing
> Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF, Proceed to dest.
> airport
>
> 2) Indication: Low Voltage Light - ON, Field CB - POPPED
> Likely Cause: Voltage Reg failing
> Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF, Proceed to dest.
> airport
>
> 3) Indication: Smoke and/or sparks in cockpit
> Likely Cause: Wiring short
> Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF
> If smoke clears, land at closest airport
> If smoke doesn't clear, Essential Bus Sw - OFF, Land at closest airport,
> try turning on Essential Bus
> items one at a time
>
> 4) Indication: Field CB - POPPED
> Likely Cause: nuisance trip
> Action: Field CB - RESET, Proceed to dest. airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Problems Check List |
>
>
>Rick -
>
>With one alternator, I'd for darned sure land at the nearest suitable
>airport on both 1) & 2)!
>
>For 3), I assume that you have one EI on each battery buss. If this is
>true, I'd get both Master and Essential buss switch off first and head for
>the nearest airport. If you absolutely need a piece of equipment on, and
>assuming that you have that on the Essential buss, put that switch on and
>still head for the airport.
>
>John Schroeder
Why would you do this if you KNOW that you have enough
battery energy aboard to allow continued flight until
AFTER fuel is exhausted?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billie Lamb" <N254BL(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
I simply mounted my box on the firewall with cooling tube. If that sucker
isn't hardy enough to survive there, then I'll try something else but don't
have room for it in the cockpit and didn't want it there anyway. This is on
a Mustang II.
Bill Lamb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
>
> My feeling is "wassabigdeal?!" I'm not ABOUT to cut a 1" hole in my
> firewall when I could get away with a much smaller pass-through just for
the
> wire. I'll be chopping my connector off.
>
> http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_lightspeed_harness.jpg
>
> That's a photo of what the 15-pin connector looks like when you take the
> housing off, as it comes from LightSpeed. I don't understand why you
> wouldn't just order a new crimp pin connector from Mouser (or the like)
for
> *less than a buck*, cut the wires off one by one and crimp on D-subs and
> insert 'em into the new connector. Don't even need to label if you do it
> one wire at a time. But I plan on cutting the existing connector off,
> running the wire through a small pass-through (along with the bundle of
> engine transducer/sensor wires, but not with the coil wires), and then
> crimping on the new connector once the wire passes aft of the firewall.
>
> http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_lightspeed_schematic.jpg
>
> That's a crappy photo of the schematic that comes with the LightSpeed
> system...but you've got a reference if you get stuck. I understand why
> Klaus doesn't want to support myriad problems when people cut off his
> connector and screw up installing a new one, but I also don't think it's
> that complicated that we should consider gouging our firewalls
> unnecessarily.
>
> Hopefully sometime in the next few weeks I'll wrap up the firewall forward
> wiring on my RV-7, so I'll have pics on the site for reference.
>
> By the way, the 15-pin connector housings are available from Mouser...part
#
> 156-1415 (receptacle) or 156-1416 (plug), and the crimp pin/socket
contacts
> are on page 603 of the online catalog as well.
>
> http://www.mouser.com/catalog/614/603.pdf
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > Yes, Bob. Your presumption is correct. LSE supplies a pre-wired harness
> with a15 pin connector on one end the direct crank sensor cirquit board
on
> the other. The 15 pin connector hooks up to the control module which is
> recommended to be installed behind the firewall. A minimum of 3 inches
away
> from these input wires the installer is supposed to route 2 seaparate RG58
> coaxial cables thatconnect to the 2ignition coils (assuming a 4 cylinder
> engine)
> >
> >
> > LSE cannot recommend cutting re-splicing/soldering the input wires to
get
> them through the firewall so they recommend drilling a hole just large
> enough to get the bare minimum of the 15 pin connector (cover removed)
> through the firewall.I could do that just find a mondo grommet that I'd
> have tocut a radius in but itkinda bugs me. I think Ilike your d-sub idea
> but I don't know much at all about them. Seen the pictures on the tools
page
> but that's it. I'm pretty sure when I say 15 pin connector it is a d-sub
but
> I don't know for sure I certainly don't know if they are removable but I
> will research that pathas soon as time allows.
> >
> >
> > Unfortunately I'm having to work out of town for a week and wont have
> internet access until Saturday the 19th. This is my last post until then
but
> I look forward to your response.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > Grant
> >
> >
> > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS(at)COX.NET>
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration
> > Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:43:21 -0500
> >
> > -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >
> > -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point
>
> >
> > I just installed this as well. I decided that it would be less work to
> > drill a 1 inch hole in the firewall than to cut/ splice the wiring. A
> > good 1 inch hole saw works well for this. I used a stainless firewall
> > shield with an asbestos washer to seal the opening. On the plus side,
> > you can run lots of other wires through this big hole (but not the LSE
> > high voltage wires!
> >
> >
> > Do I presume correctly that there is a manufacturer supplied
> > harness with connector installed that needs to go through
> > the firewall? I think I would replace the connector with
> > one that uses removable pins . . . like a d-sub. Before you
> > install pins in new connector, route the harness through
> > a smaller hole.
> >
> > What kind of high voltage wires need to come through the
> > firewall?
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
>
>
>Howdy all,
>
>I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution diagram
>to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I have
>two questions...
>
>One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
>noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the battery
>contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
>wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could get
>away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a 40A
>alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
>to.
>
>Here is a *.pdf of the system so far...
>
>http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
Phil, just noticed a small problem with the diagram you
published . . .
Feedwire to the alternator b-lead disconnect contactor
coil is the (+) supply to the contactor. The OTHER end
should, therefore, go to ground and not to the (+) power
that resides on the fat terminal. The diode across the coil
needs to be reversed also.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Problems Check List |
John,
I tthink that the best characteristic of Bob's architectures is that there
would always be a known reserve available for the eseential bus, that it
would be enough to continue to destination, and that it would continue to
drive enough items to continue the flight safely.
This relies on regular battery testing, of course, but a draw of, say, 5A,
for a few essential items, on even a small 17Ah battery should last long
enough to get to most destinations without diverting.
I'd have no problem with running off an essential bus until destination, even
if major parts of the electrical system had failed, because there's so little
between the battery and essential bus,
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder(at)perigee.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Electrical Problems Check List
>
> Rick -
>
> With one alternator, I'd for darned sure land at the nearest suitable
> airport on both 1) & 2)!
>
> For 3), I assume that you have one EI on each battery buss. If this is
> true, I'd get both Master and Essential buss switch off first and head for
> the nearest airport. If you absolutely need a piece of equipment on, and
> assuming that you have that on the Essential buss, put that switch on and
> still head for the airport.
>
> John Schroeder
>
>
> >
> > 1) Indication: Low Voltage Light - ON, Field CB - IN
> > Likely Cause: Alternator failing
> > Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF, Proceed to dest.
> > airport
> >
> > 2) Indication: Low Voltage Light - ON, Field CB - POPPED
> > Likely Cause: Voltage Reg failing
> > Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF, Proceed to dest.
> > airport
> >
> > 3) Indication: Smoke and/or sparks in cockpit
> > Likely Cause: Wiring short
> > Action: Essential Bus Sw - ON, Master Alt/Bat Sw - OFF
> > If smoke clears, land at closest airport
> > If smoke doesn't clear, Essential Bus Sw - OFF, Land at closest airport,
> > try turning on Essential Bus
> > items one at a time
> >
> > 4) Indication: Field CB - POPPED
> > Likely Cause: nuisance trip
> > Action: Field CB - RESET, Proceed to dest. airport
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
Phil,
There's one thing I don't understand -- what is the purpose of the fuselink
between the battery bus and essential bus, when there's a fuse there too?
Have I missed something?
Thanks.
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress
UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
> Howdy all,
>
> I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution
diagram
> to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I
have
> two questions...
>
> One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
> noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the
battery
> contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
> wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could get
> away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a 40A
> alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
> to.
>
> Here is a *.pdf of the system so far...
>
> http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Problems Check List |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Bob -
Personal preference, my friend, personal preference. We just finished a
round of discussion on this very topic on the Lancair Mail List and I still
prefer to take an all electric aircraft with an electically dependent
engine to the nearest safe haven. If there are electrons left over, then
I'm happy.
Cheers,
John
>> Rick -
>>
>> With one alternator, I'd for darned sure land at the nearest suitable
>> airport on both 1) & 2)!
>>
>> For 3), I assume that you have one EI on each battery buss. If this is
>> true, I'd get both Master and Essential buss switch off first and head
>> for
>> the nearest airport. If you absolutely need a piece of equipment on, and
>> assuming that you have that on the Essential buss, put that switch on
>> and
>> still head for the airport.
>>
>> John Schroeder
>
> Why would you do this if you KNOW that you have enough
> battery energy aboard to allow continued flight until
> AFTER fuel is exhausted?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Problems Check List |
John Schroeder wrote:
>
>Rick -
>
>With one alternator, I'd for darned sure land at the nearest suitable
>airport on both 1) & 2)!
>
>For 3), I assume that you have one EI on each battery buss. If this is
>true, I'd get both Master and Essential buss switch off first and head for
>the nearest airport. If you absolutely need a piece of equipment on, and
>assuming that you have that on the Essential buss, put that switch on and
>still head for the airport.
>
>John Schroeder
>
>
>
John;
Why would this be a problem?? I was under the impression that the whole
reason for following the AeroElectric architecture was that under any
conceivable circumstance you simply switched to the "essential" mode and
continued your flight to destination secure in the knowledge that you
have more electrical reserve than fuel.
Bob McC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Problems Check List |
>
>
>John,
>
>I tthink that the best characteristic of Bob's architectures is that there
>would always be a known reserve available for the eseential bus, that it
>would be enough to continue to destination, and that it would continue to
>drive enough items to continue the flight safely.
>
>This relies on regular battery testing,
or periodic maintenance in the form of new battery
every year. I one runs the very reasonable 17 a.h.
RG battery, it can be depended upon to deliver
a lion's share of rated capacity at any time in
first year . . .
> of course, but a draw of, say, 5A,
>for a few essential items, on even a small 17Ah battery should last long
>enough to get to most destinations without diverting.
Many endurance bus loads are as low as 2A while in
the en route phase of flight . . .
>I'd have no problem with running off an essential bus until destination, even
>if major parts of the electrical system had failed, because there's so little
>between the battery and essential bus . . .
But of course . . .
I rent airplanes. I have no personal knowledge of the maintenance
history of any airplane I rent except that it passed a 100 hour
inspection not too long ago. None the less, when I walk up to a
rental, it matters not if ANY of the electrical stuff on the
panel is working except perhaps as a dispatch item . . . once
airborne, the goodies in my flight bag will get me where I need
to go if nothing on the panel is working. That is the sad lot
of dealing with machines offered to us from the certified
world . . . See chapter 17 at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev9/ch17-9.pdf
In your OBAM aircraft, what practical limits on system design
and operation prevent you from having an en route endurance
of electrical equipment that is equal to or greater than
fuel endurance? I will suggest there are none. If we can
demonstrate that suggestion to be true, then there is yet
another point in favor of selling your PiBeCesMo and building
a nice RV or Kitfox.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jordan Grant" <jgrant(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
The latest Kitplanes has an article that details an installation of the
LSE Electronic Ignition. They just put the box on the engine side of the
firewall. That eliminates the penetration altogether. I was thinking
about doing it that way.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Bob,
Found this old link in the archives, which is no longer active. Is this
file available elsewhere on your site?
http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/s401-25.jpg
Jeff Point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EI Install - Firewall Penetration |
>
>
>The latest Kitplanes has an article that details an installation of the
>LSE Electronic Ignition. They just put the box on the engine side of the
>firewall. That eliminates the penetration altogether. I was thinking
>about doing it that way.
Making electronics "live" on the forward side
of the firewall shouldn't be any big deal. Of course,
every manufacturer of electro-whizzies for airplanes
would like for you to make it as easy as possible
for his particular product to perform well and elevated
temperatures ARE a strong service life issue if you
don't do your homework.
Without knowing the details of design and fabrication
on the LSE product, it's not possible to shed any
light on the question. It would be interesting to
get temperature data in the vicinity of the box
and on the surface of the box during your flyoff
phase.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
Hi Nev-
Picture the wire coming adrift from the #2 terminal on the "E-bus alternate feed"
switch and contacting any ground (under normal main bus operation with this switch
open) Not a pretty picture.
Unless the main and e-bus fuseblocks are immediately adjacent and the connecting
wire
is really short, this connection should also be protected. Re-locating the fuselink
from the e-bus alternate feed to e-bus normal feed (at the main bus end) would
do
this, and protect the alternate feed wire as well. Optionally, the e-buss normal
feed could come from one of the fuses on the main bus block (properly sized, of
course).
I would also recommend a really good in-line fuse or fuselink on the main bus feed
wire at the battery contactor if this wire passes through the firewall or is of
any
substantial length- 6" or longer is one guideline, ditto the battery bus supply
feed
at the battery contactor, depending on wire length & routing- the drawing does
show
this as 6" or less (*) And if we REALLY want to get anal, I'd connect the batt
bus
feed at the battery, eliminating one connection there as well. YMMV...
From The PossumWorks
Mark
Neville Kilford wrote:
>
> Phil,
>
> There's one thing I don't understand -- what is the purpose of the fuselink
> between the battery bus and essential bus, when there's a fuse there too?
> Have I missed something?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Nev
>
> --
> Jodel D150 in progress
> UK
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
> To:
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
>
> >
> > Howdy all,
> >
> > I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution
> diagram
> > to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I
> have
> > two questions...
> >
> > One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
> > noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the
> battery
> > contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
> > wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could get
> > away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a 40A
> > alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
> > to.
> >
> > Here is a *.pdf of the system so far...
> >
> > http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
> >
> > Godspeed,
> >
> > Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> > RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
> > http://www.myrv7.com
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>Bob,
>
>Found this old link in the archives, which is no longer active. Is this
>file available elsewhere on your site?
>http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/s401-25.jpg
That photo was part of the website catalog for parts
and materials that are no longer offered for sale
from my website. Many of the pictures associated with
the catalog are still useful for illustrative purposes
so I've created a directory on the server as a repository
for photos. You can find the one you're looking for
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures
Bob. . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bob - Substitution of Electrical Parts |
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I went to Radio Shack today and based on inventory, I had to substitute a
>few items for the test adaptor. Are the substituted items ok?
>
>1) 274-1569 Size M Coaxial DC power plug in place of 274-1573
>
>2) 274-1563 Size M Coaxial DC power jack in place of 274-1576
>
>3) 271-153A 1K Ohm, 1 watt resistor in place of 1K Ohm, 1/2 watt resistor
>
>4) Is the direction of the resistor important (color bands go brown,
>black, red, and gold in order)?
Resistors are not polarity sensitive.
>5) Can I assume that you have no problem with anything I said below Re the
>check list?
No, that's fine.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
>
>
>Phil,
>
>There's one thing I don't understand -- what is the purpose of the fuselink
>between the battery bus and essential bus, when there's a fuse there too?
>Have I missed something?
circuit protection is used to save a wire from
damage due to faulting of a high current power
source that can include an alternator but most
certainly includes a battery.
If you study the power sources available to drive
the e-bus alternate feed path, there are
sources at BOTH ends. You COULD use a fuse slot
on the e-bus as a protected alternate path feed
point OR use the fusible link. Many folks had
installed 6 slot e-bus fuse holders and the fusible
link seemed the most useful way to achieve some
level of protection and not give up an e-bus
distribution fuse. If you have plenty of slots
on the e-bus, then using one of them in place
of the fusible link is a better deal. Fuses
are MUCH faster than fusible links.
Phil, did you see my note on wiring the
alternator b-lead disconnect contactor?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
Mark,
Thanks; so the fuselink is to protect the under normal conditions, and not
when operating the e-bus alternate. As it is, they'll be on the inside of
the firewall on my plane (which is wood -- Yay!), and immediately adjacent to
each other, which should keep problems to a minimum. The only major feeds
will be the ones from the battery contactor.
You raise a good point about wires coming adrift -- is there a preferred way
of securing the posts on the Bussman products, or is the supplied shakeproof
washer and nut considered adequate? Same goes for the contactors -- are the
shakeproof washers considered alright? Obviously the latter are easier to
check being on full view, but what about for the ones buried away
somewhere...
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
> Hi Nev-
>
> Picture the wire coming adrift from the #2 terminal on the "E-bus alternate
feed"
> switch and contacting any ground (under normal main bus operation with this
switch
> open) Not a pretty picture.
>
> Unless the main and e-bus fuseblocks are immediately adjacent and the
connecting wire
> is really short, this connection should also be protected. Re-locating the
fuselink
> from the e-bus alternate feed to e-bus normal feed (at the main bus end)
would do
> this, and protect the alternate feed wire as well. Optionally, the e-buss
normal
> feed could come from one of the fuses on the main bus block (properly
sized, of
> course).
>
> I would also recommend a really good in-line fuse or fuselink on the main
bus feed
> wire at the battery contactor if this wire passes through the firewall or
is of any
> substantial length- 6" or longer is one guideline, ditto the battery bus
supply feed
> at the battery contactor, depending on wire length & routing- the drawing
does show
> this as 6" or less (*) And if we REALLY want to get anal, I'd connect the
batt bus
> feed at the battery, eliminating one connection there as well. YMMV...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
> If you study the power sources available to drive
> the e-bus alternate feed path, there are
> sources at BOTH ends.
Bingo. The point being that the cable to the alt. feed switch is long and
routes around the houses, and thus should be protected... I have a couple of
spares on the ess. bus, so I'll use one of them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
That's what happens when I cut and paste. :-) I updated the file...
http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
> >
> >
> >Howdy all,
> >
> >I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution
diagram
> >to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I
have
> >two questions...
> >
> >One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
> >noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the
battery
> >contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
> >wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could
get
> >away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a
40A
> >alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
> >to.
> >
> >Here is a *.pdf of the system so far...
> >
> >http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
>
> Phil, just noticed a small problem with the diagram you
> published . . .
>
> Feedwire to the alternator b-lead disconnect contactor
> coil is the (+) supply to the contactor. The OTHER end
> should, therefore, go to ground and not to the (+) power
> that resides on the fat terminal. The diode across the coil
> needs to be reversed also.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RingTerminalSource |
Bob, the new B&C site does not have all the items you used to provide. I'm looking
for an uninsulated ring terminal for #2 wire and a hole for a #10 stud.
The best I've found so far is a Panduit product from DigiKey with a minimum order
of 10. I need 2. Who made the terminals you used to stock? Do you know
of any onsey-twosey quantity suppliers?
If I were doing it, I wouldn't spread the product info out over so many screens
the way B&C has. I liked your indexed approach much better.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RingTerminalSource |
>
>Bob, the new B&C site does not have all the items you used to
>provide. I'm looking for an uninsulated ring terminal for #2 wire and a
>hole for a #10 stud. The best I've found so far is a Panduit product from
>DigiKey with a minimum order of 10. I need 2. Who made the terminals you
>used to stock? Do you know of any onsey-twosey quantity suppliers?
Found the terminal you're looking for at
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?25X358218
>If I were doing it, I wouldn't spread the product info out over so many
>screens the way B&C has. I liked your indexed approach much better.
Dave,
Understand. That's the reason I maintained the parts catalog
on my website for so long after B&C took over the business.
Now, here's your opportunity as a responsible and thoughtful
consumer to make a difference. Drop Todd a note at
mailto:todd(at)bandc.biz and give him your impressions of the
new format. He'll no doubt pass it along to Bill.
Like my business and any other business, they exist to
service customers. If you or anyone else on the list
has constructive critical review to offer, I'm sure
they'd like to know about it. They might not be "happy"
about it . . . they have a LOT of labor invested in
a website that looked like a good "package deal" . . .
This format might work for selling cars or furniture
but it DOESN'T work well for selling nuts, bolts,
and screws. I tried to convince Bill of this when he
signed up for the service. Now its YOUR turn. Frankly,
the consumer generally has a lot more influence than
most hi-dollar consultants.
It's up to you guys now . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
Unless I hear something more appropriate, I was planning on a star, or toothed
lock
washer -"shakeproof" on your side of the pond? Very cool! 8-) -and a nylock
nut. Not sure whether internal or external teeth would be better for the
application, but with carefully cleaned terminals and appropriate torque, methinks
this would stay put until insulation rot sets in... Securing conductors to nearby
structure as close to the connection as possible is also helpful- minimizes chance
for loosening and if one somehow does come off, less possibility it will find
something of opposing polarity...
Other suggestions?
Mark
>
> You raise a good point about wires coming adrift -- is there a preferred way
> of securing the posts on the Bussman products, or is the supplied shakeproof
> washer and nut considered adequate? Same goes for the contactors -- are the
> shakeproof washers considered alright? Obviously the latter are easier to
> check being on full view, but what about for the ones buried away
> somewhere...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
I suppose it's a numbers game -- trying to think about events & consequences
and then trying to think up a solution. As you say, pinning down the cable
is a good way to prevent shorts, although a wooden structure helps!
I think the shakeproof (star) washers *and* a nylock nut should be more than
adequate! I was thinking that the supplied nut and a blob of loctite should
do the trick.
I suppose regular inspection of these things is the answer, though I'd rather
not be crawling around inside the plane every fortnight. I'll start off
inspecting regularly and then ease up when it looks stable.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
> Unless I hear something more appropriate, I was planning on a star, or
toothed lock
> washer -"shakeproof" on your side of the pond? Very cool! 8-) -and a
nylock
> nut. Not sure whether internal or external teeth would be better for the
> application, but with carefully cleaned terminals and appropriate torque,
methinks
> this would stay put until insulation rot sets in... Securing conductors to
nearby
> structure as close to the connection as possible is also helpful- minimizes
chance
> for loosening and if one somehow does come off, less possibility it will
find
> something of opposing polarity...
>
> Other suggestions?
> Mark
>
> >
> > You raise a good point about wires coming adrift -- is there a preferred
way
> > of securing the posts on the Bussman products, or is the supplied
shakeproof
> > washer and nut considered adequate? Same goes for the contactors -- are
the
> > shakeproof washers considered alright? Obviously the latter are easier
to
> > check being on full view, but what about for the ones buried away
> > somewhere...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | B-Crimp terminals... |
boeing.com>
>Bob,
>
>I just had a look at the URL you indicated was where B&C sold the
>terminals, but could not find the correct part. The terminal I speak of is
>inserted into the connector at the alternator end, and I believe it's
>usually sold in a strip. They are not insulated. Where can I get them? B&C
>aren't responding.
I appears this thread suffered some multiple
response overlap and disconnect. The field
terminal I would use on my B&C alternator would
be a single PIDG 1/4" faston female spade
receptacle. I'd pitch the nylon plastic
connector housing. The PIDG terminal is
superior technology to the unplated, b-crimp
terminal supplied with the ND alternator.
I used to stock a replacement terminal like
you inquired about. Any that I had would have
gone to B&C when they bought the parts business.
I'd like to believe they can supply new ones.
Are you using e-mail or did you try to call?
Call direct at 316.283.8000 and see if they
won't help you . . . but a single PIDG Faston
will work just fine too.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
I'd hesitate to use any thread sealant- I am doubtful it is very conductive stuff-
(maybe some special products I don't know about lock threads AND pass current)
We
ARE trying to shove electrons through these connections and they just bounce off
of
most non-metals! 8-)
Mark
> I think the shakeproof (star) washers *and* a nylock nut should be more than
> adequate! I was thinking that the supplied nut and a blob of loctite should
> do the trick.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
True enough, but I'd have thought that little of the current would transfer
through the thread part, and virtually all through the base of the nut, the
flat part of the ring terminal, and hence wouldn't be affected by a smear of
loctite. Still, as you say, perhaps it's not a good idea. Anyway, perhaps
I'm being unduly cautious.
Could always lockwire them...
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
> I'd hesitate to use any thread sealant- I am doubtful it is very conductive
stuff-
> (maybe some special products I don't know about lock threads AND pass
current) We
> ARE trying to shove electrons through these connections and they just
bounce off of
> most non-metals! 8-)
>
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KX-125 problem |
| From: | Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com> |
Bob,
Well I finally got the radio back and they replaced the power amp this
time. They reported that the powere amp was drawing excessive current
and found a burned pc track. The first time it was a diode. The radio
shop said that I might have a short in the audio panel, when I told them
I dont have an audio panel, they said maybe a headset jack had a short.
I spoke with a man at King and he felt that it might have been a voltage
spike and that I should install an avionics master!! He also suggested a
loose wire could cause a spike. He also said that this was specualtion
on his part and he didn't really know that there was anything in the
airframe that would cause this. At this point, I think all i can do is
to check all my connections and fly around for a while monitoring the
buss voltage.
Any ideas???
writes:
>
>
>
> >
> >Bob,
> >I put my volt meter on the bus and flew around for half an hour and
> the
> >voltage varied between 14.24 to 14.27 and never strayed outside of
> that.
> >I couldn't really change the load because I don't have anything to
> turn
> >on and off, the only electric things in the plane are the radio
> which
> >isn't in the plane and a transponder and an intercom. I turned the
> >intercom on and off and that didn't change anything.
>
> That small a load change wouldn't help diagnose much in the way
> of alternator problems. You don't have any lighting equipment
> you can turn on? If your airplane is so lightly outfitted,
> I'd recommend you borrow a battery shop load tester, hook
> it to the battery with the engine running up 2,000 rpm or so
> and crank the load up to 25-40 amps as see that the
> panel voltmeter confirms an ability and willingness of
> the alternator to properly accept such loads.
>
> >The radio shop has the radio and I am hoping to hear from them
> tomorrow
> >as to what is wrong with it. Could a loose wire, say the power
> wire on
> >the back of the alternator cause a voltage spike? Shouldn't a
> radio be
> >able to handle something like that? If it were a case of the
> regulator
> >allowing the alternator to charge to its hearts content, I have a
> feeling
> >that I would smell the battery outgassing, it is only about a foot
> away
> >from me.
> >
> >Thanks again for your help.
>
> If you have a bus voltage high enough to outgas an RG battery,
> the OV protection system should have tripped the alternator
> of line a long time ago. If the ov protection system is
> functional, it should protect the airplane from miscreant
> regulators and alternators.
>
> See what the radio shop says. Be skeptical of any diagnosis
> based upon your airplane having "spiked" the radio. This is a
> common
> methodology for pushing root cause off onto the airplane . . .
> especially when the technician doesn't really understand how
> the radio failed. I'm not saying it never happens but after
> 4 decades of chasing gremlins in airplanes, I can tell you
> that technicians attribute spikes with far greater penchant for
> evil than the reality of good science can confirm.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list
>
>
>
>
>
>
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
Don't worry about the loctite. When you tighten the nut, the threads
still make the same metal to metal contact they would make without the
loctite. All the loctite does is fill up the gaps where there isn't any
contact and harden to hold things in place.
And, yes, the majority of current will flow from the bottom where the
ring lug touches the terminal.
Dick Tasker
Neville Kilford wrote:
>
>True enough, but I'd have thought that little of the current would transfer
>through the thread part, and virtually all through the base of the nut, the
>flat part of the ring terminal, and hence wouldn't be affected by a smear of
>loctite. Still, as you say, perhaps it's not a good idea. Anyway, perhaps
>I'm being unduly cautious.
>
>Could always lockwire them...
>
>Nev
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
>
>
>
>>
>>I'd hesitate to use any thread sealant- I am doubtful it is very conductive
>>
>>
>stuff-
>
>
>>(maybe some special products I don't know about lock threads AND pass
>>
>>
>current) We
>
>
>>ARE trying to shove electrons through these connections and they just
>>
>>
>bounce off of
>
>
>>most non-metals! 8-)
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rwilliams" <rwilliams(at)C1ama.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Common questions |
I have already bought it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey Fellas,
I just received my Dynon EFIS via UPS on Wednesday (#287). What a fantastic piece
of engineering!!. I ordered the aux battery feature, and as I unpacked the
unit I couldn't find the Battery. As I was about to call and ask, I pushed the
left button and the thing lit up!
Turns out they even engineered the Lithium Battery into the unit!
Did you know it also has space on the screen, via toggle, to download custom checklists
for you and your aircraft?
Made a call to Paul, on of Dynon's designers / engineers to praise their work and
asked about the Angle of Attack and the OAT modes. Both of these interface
with the present unit, but the Pitot and the OAT sensors are not quite ready for
distribution. They should be available to us in the next few months.
So, if your considering this option instead of traditional (or, like me, in tandem
with Airspeed and Altimeter), you will be totally happy with this unit. I'm
anxious to see how they do on their next projects (GPS, Engine Monitor, Autopilot).
I have no affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer...
Ron Patterson
RV-4
N8ZD (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Professsional Panel Construction? |
Anybody know where I can get a panel for my RV-4 that is custom made? I have most
of the avionics and need a fabricated unit to bolt up my radios to and plug
in the wiring. (also want a pre-wired package prepared for me by an expert)
Ron Patterson
scc_ron(at)yahoo.com
510-421-2316
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
>
>I'd hesitate to use any thread sealant- I am doubtful it is very
>conductive stuff-
>(maybe some special products I don't know about lock threads AND pass
>current) We
>ARE trying to shove electrons through these connections and they just
>bounce off of
>most non-metals! 8-)
Thread lockers increase friction in the threaded
joint by filling VOIDS in engaged threads with a
material with some degree of "stickiness" and
moderate shear strength.
While applying assembly torque to a threaded fastener
with a non-corrosive thread locker, the compression
strength of the thread locker is ZERO . . .it is, after
all, in a liquid state. Even after it sets up, compression
strength of thread lockers is really low . . . on the
same order as hard rubber.
Anywhere a threaded fasteners is inclined to form a
high quality electrical contact, forces
would be so high as to extrude the thread locker material
out of the way in favor of metal-to-metal contact.
Thread lockers on hardware applied with recommended
torque do not degrade electrical performance of the
ability of threads to carry current.
Having said that, consider further that 90+ percent
of the current carrying duty happens between the face
of a terminal and the surface that it is mashed against.
A conservative design for threaded fastener joint
ASSUMES that the clamping nut carries no current.
Obviously, it carries some but it should not be
depended upon as a significant carrier.
In the certified world, we avoid gunks, goos and
stickums as much as possible for any purpose. They
tend to be very process sensitive as to craftsmanship
of the finished product. For the case in point, an
all metal locking nut would be used to secure a ring
terminal on a stud.
I'm not sure that the contactors and fuseholders
will allow that kind of installation torque and
not have the stud rotate.
I think the internal tooth, phosphor bronze lockwasher
and all brass hardware combination is a reasonable
compromise. But if you wanted to use a thread locking
compound on the nut, it won't hurn anything.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Locker on Electrical Terminals? |
>
>
>Don't worry about the loctite. When you tighten the nut, the threads
>still make the same metal to metal contact they would make without the
>loctite. All the loctite does is fill up the gaps where there isn't any
>contact and harden to hold things in place.
>
>And, yes, the majority of current will flow from the bottom where the
>ring lug touches the terminal.
>
>Dick Tasker
Gee Dick, should have checked further up the list on this
thread, you beat me to it! Good reply.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe shield grounding question |
I'm installing the Whelen Comet Flash power supply (single central p/s for
both wingtip and tail strobes) in my RV-7, and I'm a little confused about
how I should ground the shielding on the strobe wires.
The Whelen instructions say to "GROUND SHIELD WIRE AT POWER SUPPLY END."
Now, if I didn't know any better, I would just run 'em to a ring terminal
and locally ground them to one of the power supply mount bolts.
But I *think* I know better...and would like to run the ground all the way
back to the 24/48 ground tab forest at the firewall. The question is this:
can "this ground" share the same wire as the power supply's ground wire, or
should it be run separately?
Or...am I really over-thinking this and locally grounding the shield won't
induce any noise?
I really don't mind running an extra wire to insure that there won't be
noise, but if I can share the existing 14AWG ground wire I'll be a happy
camper.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe shield grounding question |
(sorry if this is a duplicate message)
I'm installing the Whelen Comet Flash power supply (single central p/s for
both wingtip and tail strobes) in my RV-7, and I'm a little confused about
how I should ground the shielding on the strobe wires.
The Whelen instructions say to "GROUND SHIELD WIRE AT POWER SUPPLY END."
Now, if I didn't know any better, I would just run 'em to a ring terminal
and locally ground them to one of the power supply mount bolts.
But I *think* I know better...and would like to run the ground all the way
back to the 24/48 ground tab forest at the firewall. The question is this:
can "this ground" share the same wire as the power supply's ground wire, or
should it be run separately?
Or...am I really over-thinking this and locally grounding the shield won't
induce any noise?
I really don't mind running an extra wire to insure that there won't be
noise, but if I can share the existing 14AWG ground wire I'll be a happy
camper.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
> I think the internal tooth, phosphor bronze lockwasher
> and all brass hardware combination is a reasonable
> compromise. But if you wanted to use a thread locking
> compound on the nut, it won't hurn anything.
Thanks for the scoop, Bob.
I think the area where I have the most concern about fasteners loosening up
is on the terminal strips I bought from Radio Snack. I'm trying to decide
whether to use Loctite, Vibra-Tite (brush-on air-dry nylok), or just try to
find some #6 internal tooth lock washers...this is for the #6 ring terminals
that B&C sells, btw, in case that matters. You mentioned brass hardware,
but does that imply brass ring terminals? Is that what material these
suckers are anyway?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm just curious.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Honabach" <don(at)pcperfect.com> |
Ron,
I got one of these units as well (about 2 or 3 months ago). Great unit
and can't wait for my AOA Pitot.
I've also gone ahead and installed a RS232 port so I can upgrade the
firmware on the unit. Might be something to find a spot for now if your
in the panel planning stages. I'm pretty sure these guys are going to be
upgrading the firmware a lot in the next year or two as the tweak and
improve the ucode.
Regards,
Don Honabach
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Patterson [mailto:scc_ron(at)yahoo.com]
Subject:
-->
Hey Fellas,
I just received my Dynon EFIS via UPS on Wednesday (#287). What a
fantastic piece of engineering!!. I ordered the aux battery feature, and
as I unpacked the unit I couldn't find the Battery. As I was about to
call and ask, I pushed the left button and the thing lit up! Turns out
they even engineered the Lithium Battery into the unit!
Did you know it also has space on the screen, via toggle, to download
custom checklists for you and your aircraft?
Made a call to Paul, on of Dynon's designers / engineers to praise their
work and asked about the Angle of Attack and the OAT modes. Both of
these interface with the present unit, but the Pitot and the OAT sensors
are not quite ready for distribution. They should be available to us in
the next few months.
So, if your considering this option instead of traditional (or, like me,
in tandem with Airspeed and Altimeter), you will be totally happy with
this unit. I'm anxious to see how they do on their next projects (GPS,
Engine Monitor, Autopilot).
I have no affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer... Ron
Patterson RV-4 N8ZD (reserved)
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | LED Position Lights |
This weekend I will finish up a document on making your own LED position lights.
This is a little too large for the Aeroelectric but I will post it on my website
later.
If you want to see it and comment on it please email me off list--Email: emjones(at)charter.net
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
"Nothing is too wonderful to be true."
- James Clerk Maxwell, discoverer of electromagnetism
"Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."
- Mae West, discoverer of personal magnetism
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon/SL70 Encoding |
I had my SL30 and SL70 trays pre-wired when I bought the radios. My
Dynon arrived yesterday (yes, it's very cool). I'm trying to wire the
encoder functions between the two.
The SL70 diagram from their web site illustrates everything nicely.
Everything matches my pre-wire job. Except pin 35 (AKA input "D4") is
not wired. Hmm. Why not?
Using the cooresponding diagram for the Dynon, I've wired all the
encoder wires/pins, except one. Dynon calls it "Encoder - COM". It
doesn't seem to have a mate on the SL70 end of the wire.
So, should I conclude "Encoder - COM" should be paired with "D4" and
wire them together?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size) |
Phil, your wiring schematic in pdf is very sharp and clear when I zoom in,
unlike my dwg files printed thru FinePrint's pdfFactory to get pdf
conversion (dwg's come out totally unusable from my Intellicad software) and
unlike dxf files printed thru FinePrint's pdfFactory (barely readable when
zoom - NOT clear & sharp.)
What drawing format did you start with to convert to pdf and what did you
"print to" - to convert to pdf?
Bob Nuckolls said a day or two ago that there is some "magic" involved -
something about increasing line size or some such.
Just trying to get a better understanding of how to REALLY convert from dwg
or dxf to readable pdf.
David Carter
Nederland (85 mi east of you there in Houston) - - - Where are you building?
At home? At David Wayne Hooks Aprt?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Master Bus Wire Size
>
> That's what happens when I cut and paste. :-) I updated the file...
>
> http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
> http://www.myrv7.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon/SL70 Encoding |
Larry,
According to UPSAT tech support the D4 is left unconnected.
Bob Trumpfheller
> The SL70 diagram from their web site illustrates everything nicely.
> Everything matches my pre-wire job. Except pin 35 (AKA input "D4") is
> not wired. Hmm. Why not?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon/SL70 Encoding |
I'm confused then. Looking at their documentation, D4 is pin 35. Or am
I looking at it wrong?
http://www.upsat.com/dwnlds/stackdoc/fullstackwiring.pdf <--bottom,
right corner.
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N67BT(at)aol.com [mailto:N67BT(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:54 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dynon/SL70 Encoding
>
>
>
> Larry,
>
> According to UPSAT tech support the D4 is left unconnected.
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
>
> > The SL70 diagram from their web site illustrates everything nicely.
> > Everything matches my pre-wire job. Except pin 35 (AKA
> input "D4") is
> > not wired. Hmm. Why not?
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: terminal strips |
>
> > I think the internal tooth, phosphor bronze lockwasher
> > and all brass hardware combination is a reasonable
> > compromise. But if you wanted to use a thread locking
> > compound on the nut, it won't hurn anything.
>
>Thanks for the scoop, Bob.
>
>I think the area where I have the most concern about fasteners loosening up
>is on the terminal strips I bought from Radio Snack. I'm trying to decide
>whether to use Loctite, Vibra-Tite (brush-on air-dry nylok), or just try to
>find some #6 internal tooth lock washers...this is for the #6 ring terminals
>that B&C sells, btw, in case that matters. You mentioned brass hardware,
>but does that imply brass ring terminals? Is that what material these
>suckers are anyway?
oooohhhh . . . how did you decide to insert so many threaded
fasteners into your system? I really do my best to inject no
threaded fastener where it can be avoided.
When I mention brass hardware, I'm speaking of the fabrication
and installation of things like our ground blocks and the
use of all brass hardware for firewall penetration bolts,
contactor studs, etc. Most barrier strips are plated brass
but I wasn't even thinking about those . . . I don't think
I've ever used one in an airborne design unless the customer
specified it.
If terminal strips are needed in airplanes, they're generally
the fixed stud type, like the not to clear picture here:
http://www.edmo.com/s2/s2-40.asp
These male threaded studs accept lock nuts for security
of the joint.
You'll note that non-locking barrier strips are offered
at the bottom of the same page . . . but as I mentioned
before, these rarely fine their way onto an airplane
for good cause. You might consider nylock screws. There's
just no really elegant way to toughen these things up.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard(at)riley.net |
A friend of mine has just installed a Delphi XM radio in a Berkut 540,
feeding a PS 2000 intercom. We're using Lightspeed headsets.
Prior to the radio install the audio system was fine, now there's a very
loud high pitched whine. The whine varies pitch directly with engine RPM.
Three things make the whine stop completely - shutting off the alt. field,
disconnecting the audio output from the XM radio to the music input of the
intercom, and disconnecting the power going to the XM radio. Turning the
radio off doesn't stop the whine.
The radio was wired directly to the battery (with an inline fuse), then
wired to the battery through a 20 amp Radio Shack noise filter. The filter
does nothing.
We're about to fly from Los Angeles to Kitty Hawk, to Dayton, Oshkosh,
Texas and back to LA. Music would make the trip much nicer. Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: terminal strips |
> oooohhhh . . . how did you decide to insert so many threaded
> fasteners into your system? I really do my best to inject no
> threaded fastener where it can be avoided.
Good question. I do have a 10-circuit AMP Commercial MATE-N-LOK connector
and pins...I suppose that's just as good as a terminal strip for being able
to reassign functions by simply moving pins, huh (this is for stick switch
wiring assignments). Hm...maybe I'll switch to the connector.
I kind of like the ability to reassign the buttons on the stick fairly
easily if need be, but jeez...now that it's all working, how often am I
going to want to switch which way the plane goes when you push the coolie
hat to the left...hm... 8-)
It's good to bounce stuff off you...thanks again.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Electrics/electronics education question |
I am a new listmember and a new A&P. I was hired by a local airport, in the hopes
that I could "grow into" the job, and become an avionics technician as well.
After four weeks on the job, I was called to active duty and am currently
in Iraq. As a result of my MOS not being in very big demand, I have a lot of
spare time, and I'd like to make the maximum use of that time. I am currently
studying for my FCC General license using a pre-programmed curriculum and have
a good theoretical knowledge of electricity/electronics, but what I lack is
actual experience.
So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to gain experience
with electronic stuff, having rather limited access to equipment I can actually
touch a mess with?" I've rewired a couple fans with burned out computer chips
(computer chips, in a fan?????) and troubleshot/cleaned up/resoldered connection
in a captured Iraqi mine detector, but I'd like something a little more
systematic and all-encompassing. Would it be a good idea to get one of those
101 or 1001 experiments in electricity/electronics? Or maybe buy some plans/kits
from radio shack? I'm handicapped by not being able to visit the local mall
every time I need a diode or somesuch. Can anyone recommend a good kit or
experiment set?
Anything that will reinforce the books I'm reading would be fine. Thank you for
being understanding. It seems like everyone is so incredibly understanding.
From my boss (who has given me a shot at being able to do what I love, 20 miles
from my current home) to the fine folks back in the states that send letters
of support and care packages.
Thank you,
Drew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard(at)riley.net |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
I don't have the expertise to put together a kit that would be useful, but
I'll contribute $20 toward it if anyone will put it together and send it out.
You may be beyond it, but Bob has a Navy electronics course on his server,
zipped PDF files. You can download it at http://216.55.140.222/CD/Text.zip
>
>I am a new listmember and a new A&P. I was hired by a local airport, in
>the hopes that I could "grow into" the job, and become an avionics
>technician as well. After four weeks on the job, I was called to active
>duty and am currently in Iraq. As a result of my MOS not being in very
>big demand, I have a lot of spare time, and I'd like to make the maximum
>use of that time. I am currently studying for my FCC General license
>using a pre-programmed curriculum and have a good theoretical knowledge of
>electricity/electronics, but what I lack is actual experience.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
By the way, I just ordered the aeroelectric manual and CD.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil
Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 9:36 am
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> I am a new listmember and a new A&P. I was hired by a local
> airport, in the hopes that I could "grow into" the job, and become
> an avionics technician as well. After four weeks on the job, I
> was called to active duty and am currently in Iraq. As a result
> of my MOS not being in very big demand, I have a lot of spare
> time, and I'd like to make the maximum use of that time. I am
> currently studying for my FCC General license using a pre-
> programmed curriculum and have a good theoretical knowledge of
> electricity/electronics, but what I lack is actual experience.
>
> So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to
> gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?" I've
> rewired a couple fans with burned out computer chips (computer
> chips, in a fan?????) and troubleshot/cleaned up/resoldered
> connection in a captured Iraqi mine detector, but I'd like
> something a little more systematic and all-encompassing. Would it
> be a good idea to get one of those 101 or 1001 experiments in
> electricity/electronics? Or maybe buy some plans/kits from radio
> shack? I'm handicapped by not being able to visit the local mall
> every time I need a diode or somesuch. Can anyone recommend a
> good kit or experiment set?
>
> Anything that will reinforce the books I'm reading would be fine.
> Thank you for being understanding. It seems like everyone is so
> incredibly understanding. From my boss (who has given me a shot
> at being able to do what I love, 20 miles from my current home) to
> the fine folks back in the states that send letters of support and
> care packages.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Drew
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electrical courses on aerolearn.com |
| From: | Mike Rice <mrice5(at)austin.rr.com> |
> Drew-
> Some of Bob's Aeroconnection courses are available on Aerolearn.com,
> along with a variety of other electrical and electronic subjects. All
> courses on Aerolearn are free, and are primarily of interest to
> Aircraft Maintenance Technicians. You have to register to access the
> site.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Mike Rice
> Aerolearn.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cary rhodes <rhodeseng(at)yahoo.com> |
Gentlemen
I was checking out the function of the switches on the
firewall last nite.
The starter sol snapped closed when applying 12V to
the coil as it should.
The master didn't
It has one small electrical connection and two big
ones.
If I understand the machine, applying 12v to the small
pin would energize the coil and close the big switch.
The other side of the coil would be the firewall
ground.
it is bolted to the firewall.
I guess I could have a faulty solenoid
Any suggestions?
its a rv-7 and I'm working on misc wiring and panel.
thanks
cary rhodes
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: master solenoid |
Cary, You need to ground the small connection to activate the coil / (sol.)
Jim Streit
90073
cary rhodes wrote:
>
>Gentlemen
>
>I was checking out the function of the switches on the
>firewall last nite.
>
>The starter sol snapped closed when applying 12V to
>the coil as it should.
>
>The master didn't
>
>It has one small electrical connection and two big
>ones.
>
>If I understand the machine, applying 12v to the small
>pin would energize the coil and close the big switch.
>
>The other side of the coil would be the firewall
>ground.
>
>it is bolted to the firewall.
>
>I guess I could have a faulty solenoid
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>its a rv-7 and I'm working on misc wiring and panel.
>
>thanks
>
>cary rhodes
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: master solenoid |
Hi Cary,
It's the other way round for a battery contactor -- the coil is connected to
the fat input terminal internally (i.e. it's at 12V), so you must put
negative on to the small terminal. The master switch should route this small
terminal to the ground.
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "cary rhodes" <rhodeseng(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: master solenoid
>
> Gentlemen
>
> I was checking out the function of the switches on the
> firewall last nite.
>
> The starter sol snapped closed when applying 12V to
> the coil as it should.
>
> The master didn't
>
> It has one small electrical connection and two big
> ones.
>
> If I understand the machine, applying 12v to the small
> pin would energize the coil and close the big switch.
>
> The other side of the coil would be the firewall
> ground.
>
> it is bolted to the firewall.
>
> I guess I could have a faulty solenoid
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> its a rv-7 and I'm working on misc wiring and panel.
>
> thanks
>
> cary rhodes
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
Hi guys,
I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic with all
the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat job of this,
and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen printing,
but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
Cheers.
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress
UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Slade" <sladerj(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Electrics/electronics education question |
> So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to
> gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?"
You could build one of the marker beacon / audio panel kits at
http://rst-engr.com/
John Slade
Cozy IV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cary rhodes <rhodeseng(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | alternator wires |
You guys did such a good job w/ the first question, I
will see it I can solve another.
My nippon Denso alternator has a plug w/ three wires.
There are marked IG, DL and L. Big white, black w/
yellow stripe, and yellow respectively.
I got it on the big white wire, its the current out
wire.
One of the others is the field or excitation and the
other may be a indicator light or something.
Which which is which.
thanks
cary
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
That's just the one. I was looking for the picture of the E-bus diode
showing the proper way to wire it.
Like others, I am finding B & C's website less useful and more difficult
to navigate after the recent "upgrade" and I will make my feelings known
to them. Perhaps a link on the Aeroelectric home page to your picture
page would be a useful and easy upgrade.
Jeff Point
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Bob,
>>
>>Found this old link in the archives, which is no longer active. Is this
>>file available elsewhere on your site?
>>http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/s401-25.jpg
>>
>>
>
> That photo was part of the website catalog for parts
> and materials that are no longer offered for sale
> from my website. Many of the pictures associated with
> the catalog are still useful for illustrative purposes
> so I've created a directory on the server as a repository
> for photos. You can find the one you're looking for
> at:
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures
>
> Bob. . .
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Check out www.engravers.net
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Neville Kilford
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
Hi guys,
I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic with
all
the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat job of
this,
and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen
printing,
but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
Cheers.
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress
UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon/SL70 Encoding |
Larry,
Pin 35 is not required, D4 is a gray-code input from the encoder that is
only required above 30,750 feet or something like that. Not a problem.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dynon/SL70 Encoding
>
> I'm confused then. Looking at their documentation, D4 is pin 35. Or am
> I looking at it wrong?
>
> http://www.upsat.com/dwnlds/stackdoc/fullstackwiring.pdf <--bottom,
> right corner.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003 - The year of flight!
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: N67BT(at)aol.com [mailto:N67BT(at)aol.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:54 PM
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dynon/SL70 Encoding
> >
> >
> >
> > Larry,
> >
> > According to UPSAT tech support the D4 is left unconnected.
> >
> > Bob Trumpfheller
> >
> > > The SL70 diagram from their web site illustrates everything nicely.
> > > Everything matches my pre-wire job. Except pin 35 (AKA
> > input "D4") is
> > > not wired. Hmm. Why not?
> >
> >
> > ==========
> > Matronics Forums.
> > ==========
> > List members.
> > ==========
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> > Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> > ==========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
>
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic with all
>the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat job of this,
>and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen printing,
>but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
>
>Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
with Xacto knife and mount parts.
Here are a few examples:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/panela.jpg
http://216.55.140.222/temp/panelb.jpg
http://216.55.140.222/temp/panelc.jpg
Some of these panels are several years old and have
stood up against quite a bit of handling stresses.
You can lay out such panel placards using
any of the CAD programs on the CD offered from
my website for either $10 for hard CD or
free if you download
http://216.55.140.222/CD/AEC8_0.zip
FUTURA, TECHNIC, and VELVET-L (on the CD)
are good panel labeling fonts.
One builder resized the published
layout at
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Switches.pdf
in a copy machine, cut out the one he liked,
had it laminated and stuck it onto his
panel.
This is a labor intensive but very low material
cost approach to panel placard building. It's
so easy that if you don't like the way it came
out first time, or it gets damaged, it's easy
to revise and/or replace.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Pflanzer <F1Rocket(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
Better yet, check out www.frontpanelexpress.com
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/F1Rocket/
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Gray <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 9:45 am
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
> Check out www.engravers.net
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Neville Kilford
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
>
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic
> withall
> the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat
> job of
> this,
> and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen
> printing,
> but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
>
> Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Nev
>
> --
> Jodel D150 in progress
> UK
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>That's just the one. I was looking for the picture of the E-bus diode
>showing the proper way to wire it.
>
>Like others, I am finding B & C's website less useful and more difficult
>to navigate after the recent "upgrade" and I will make my feelings known
>to them. Perhaps a link on the Aeroelectric home page to your picture
>page would be a useful and easy upgrade.
Keep in mind that as "owner" of the webite's format
I could easily integrate the "how to" information with
"what to" information. Our primary mission is
"how to" . . . B&C's mission is "what to" and
further, they don't own the format and they're
not in the business of writing "how to" articles.
Todd spent a LOT of time poking our catalog
into their existing format. He's still trimming
for errors. As you run across disconnects between
what we used to do and B&C is doing, let me or
Todd know and we'll see if we can pick up the
loose ends.
When you make suggestions to B&C, make them
constructive and remember that Todd and the folks
that you get to talk to with regularity are NOT
the folks who make major marketing decisions.
So don't hammer on 'em, just provide useful
input. If you think a product could use some
"how to" information, let 'em know . . . if practical,
I'll do a Shop Notes or other article to
support that activity.
They'll forward your comments to powers that be
and MAYBE it will have an effect that pleases you,
maybe it won't . . . but it is certain that without
feedback from the customer, what you see is
what you get.
This shouldn't become a contest or turf war . . .
but it can be a useful activity that ultimately
benefits us all.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: terminal strips |
>
> > oooohhhh . . . how did you decide to insert so many threaded
> > fasteners into your system? I really do my best to inject no
> > threaded fastener where it can be avoided.
>
>Good question. I do have a 10-circuit AMP Commercial MATE-N-LOK connector
>and pins...I suppose that's just as good as a terminal strip for being able
>to reassign functions by simply moving pins, huh (this is for stick switch
>wiring assignments). Hm...maybe I'll switch to the connector.
How about a d-sub? Smaller, has strain-relief hoods.
Can use machined pins . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lane, Stacey" <Stacey.Lane(at)cingular.com> |
DO NOT SEND ME ANY MORE OF THESE E-MAILS.... I HAVE NOT REQUESTED NOR DO I
WANT THEM
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: terminal strips
>
> > oooohhhh . . . how did you decide to insert so many threaded
> > fasteners into your system? I really do my best to inject no
> > threaded fastener where it can be avoided.
>
>Good question. I do have a 10-circuit AMP Commercial MATE-N-LOK connector
>and pins...I suppose that's just as good as a terminal strip for being able
>to reassign functions by simply moving pins, huh (this is for stick switch
>wiring assignments). Hm...maybe I'll switch to the connector.
How about a d-sub? Smaller, has strain-relief hoods.
Can use machined pins . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion |
I'm thinking of replacing the 3/16 coarse thread bolts that came with my Panasonic
LC-RD1217P battery with cadmium plated fine thread AN bolts. Do the Panasonic
bolts have any special corrosion prevention properties that would be lost
by going to cadmium plate?
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion |
What would you gain by using fine threads? I just put a new battery in my
Bellanca today and they were coarse thread. Cad plate doesn't last long in
battery acid.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion
>
> I'm thinking of replacing the 3/16 coarse thread bolts that came with my
Panasonic LC-RD1217P battery with cadmium plated fine thread AN bolts. Do
the Panasonic bolts have any special corrosion prevention properties that
would be lost by going to cadmium plate?
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: DON'T E-MAIL ME |
Why don't you just scroll down and use the link for subscriptions and
unsubscribe? No one else can do this simple job but you!
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
1-518-731-6800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lane, Stacey" <Stacey.Lane(at)cingular.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: DON'T E-MAIL ME
>
> DO NOT SEND ME ANY MORE OF THESE E-MAILS.... I HAVE NOT REQUESTED NOR DO I
> WANT THEM
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net]
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: terminal strips
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > > oooohhhh . . . how did you decide to insert so many threaded
> > > fasteners into your system? I really do my best to inject no
> > > threaded fastener where it can be avoided.
> >
> >Good question. I do have a 10-circuit AMP Commercial MATE-N-LOK
connector
> >and pins...I suppose that's just as good as a terminal strip for being
able
> >to reassign functions by simply moving pins, huh (this is for stick
switch
> >wiring assignments). Hm...maybe I'll switch to the connector.
>
> How about a d-sub? Smaller, has strain-relief hoods.
> Can use machined pins . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | 4-conductor shielded wire source |
Can anybody recommend a source for 4-conductor shielded wire?
This is for the remote compass harness on the Dynon EFIS-D10. Power,
ground, tx, rx.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4-conductor shielded wire source |
Try wire master @ 800 635-5342 or www.wiremasters.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | wire current & Resistance for 26ga wire. |
Hello need some help on wire sizing, all my wire size charts only go up to 24
GA wire The vans instruments have 26 GA wire for the instrument lighting and
the charts don't give me the maximum current (amps) and resistance (ohms/ft)
IM looking for. What I want to do is connect one light to the next for six
lights but the wire coming from the lights is only 26 gage and I don't know if
at
the end when I have one 26 GA wire powering 6 instrument lights is big enough.
maybe this is not the way to wire them but how do I get 6 wires onto the one
screw on the circuit breaker. Thanks for any input.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical courses on aerolearn.com |
Cool! Thanks a bunch.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Rice <mrice5(at)austin.rr.com>
Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:34 pm
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electrical courses on aerolearn.com
>
> > Drew-
> > Some of Bob's Aeroconnection courses are available on
> Aerolearn.com,
> > along with a variety of other electrical and electronic
> subjects. All
> > courses on Aerolearn are free, and are primarily of interest to
> > Aircraft Maintenance Technicians. You have to register to access
> the
> > site.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > Mike Rice
> > Aerolearn.com
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
Thanks for the suggestion, John. Unfortunately, the army (who so kindly allows
me access to this computer) has capriciously decided to filter out that site,
as an evil "hobbies" site.
I'll try to find a workaround to hack through the filter, (a guy has to have interests)
but for now, that site is on the face of the moon, for me.
Thanks for the interest. I really appreciate it.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: John Slade <sladerj(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:41 pm
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> > So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to
> > gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> > access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?"
> You could build one of the marker beacon / audio panel kits at
> http://rst-engr.com/
> John Slade
> Cozy IV
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BAKEROCB(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Professsional Panel Construction |
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: Ron Patterson
<>
7/18/2003
Hello Ron, It is a fur piece (as we say down home) from California to
Virginia, but I can highly recommend David Buckwalter (Avionics Systems Inc) right
here in Leesburg VA.
See his ad on page 25 of the July 2003 issue of Sport Aviation. His web site
is <>.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
PS: If you want to see a picture of the panel that he built for my plane send
me a mailing address by direct email and I'll send one or two to you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
I had vinyl lettering made by the local sign-maker. He had to try a couple
of times to get the vinyl cut just right so the small letters separated
well. I think we used 12-point. I had to separate the letters from the
background and pick out the centers... I couldn't pay that guy enough to do
it. But it wasn't very difficult, and it looks real good.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic with
all
> the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat job of
this,
> and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen
printing,
> but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
>
> Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Nev
>
> --
> Jodel D150 in progress
> UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
Sorry, donations are not necessary. I just need to know where to order it from.
I'll be surfing as I'm able to find something appropriate.
Thanks for the thought, though.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: richard(at)riley.net
Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 10:02 am
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> I don't have the expertise to put together a kit that would be
> useful, but
> I'll contribute $20 toward it if anyone will put it together and
> send it out.
>
> You may be beyond it, but Bob has a Navy electronics course on his
> server,
> zipped PDF files. You can download it at
> http://216.55.140.222/CD/Text.zip
>
> >
> >I am a new listmember and a new A&P. I was hired by a local
> airport, in
> >the hopes that I could "grow into" the job, and become an
> avionics
> >technician as well. After four weeks on the job, I was called to
> active
> >duty and am currently in Iraq. As a result of my MOS not being
> in very
> >big demand, I have a lot of spare time, and I'd like to make the
> maximum
> >use of that time. I am currently studying for my FCC General
> license
> >using a pre-programmed curriculum and have a good theoretical
> knowledge of
> >electricity/electronics, but what I lack is actual experience.
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Babb" <tonybabb(at)alejandra.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
Drew,
Ok, so we need to find a site that the army hasn't filtered, right. Once
that's found all we need to do is put "stuff" there temporarily that you can
download right? Can you access www.alejandra.net/velocity ? If so perhaps
Bob can suggest some suitable articles/ materials that can be downloaded
from his site or elsewhere and uploaded to www.alejandra.net/velocity. We
can leave them there until you're done downloading then I'll delete them.
Cheers,
----- Original Message -----
From: <drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil>
Subject: Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> Thanks for the suggestion, John. Unfortunately, the army (who so kindly
allows me access to this computer) has capriciously decided to filter out
that site, as an evil "hobbies" site.
>
> I'll try to find a workaround to hack through the filter, (a guy has to
have interests) but for now, that site is on the face of the moon, for me.
>
> Thanks for the interest. I really appreciate it.
>
> Drew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Slade <sladerj(at)bellsouth.net>
> Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:41 pm
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> >
> > > So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to
> > > gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> > > access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?"
> > You could build one of the marker beacon / audio panel kits at
> > http://rst-engr.com/
> > John Slade
> > Cozy IV
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
| Subject: | 4-conductor shielded wire source |
Doh!! I just made that harness using unshielded wire. Where is
shielded specified?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 4:30 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: 4-conductor shielded wire source
>
>
> -->
>
> Can anybody recommend a source for 4-conductor shielded wire?
>
> This is for the remote compass harness on the Dynon EFIS-D10.
> Power, ground, tx, rx.
>
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard(at)riley.net |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education |
question
Drew, try it this way, this gets past the filters in China and Iran right
now...
http://web.archive.org/web/20020122175550/http://rst-engr.com/
>
>Thanks for the suggestion, John. Unfortunately, the army (who so kindly
>allows me access to this computer) has capriciously decided to filter out
>that site, as an evil "hobbies" site.
>
>I'll try to find a workaround to hack through the filter, (a guy has to
>have interests) but for now, that site is on the face of the moon, for me.
>
>Thanks for the interest. I really appreciate it.
>
>Drew
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: John Slade <sladerj(at)bellsouth.net>
>Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:41 pm
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> >
> > > So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to
> > > gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> > > access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?"
> > You could build one of the marker beacon / audio panel kits at
> > http://rst-engr.com/
> > John Slade
> > Cozy IV
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
Tony,
I can get to that site, and to Bob's. Not necessary to bring stuff from Bob's
to yours. Thank you very much for your efforts. As far as reading material is
concerned, I have plenty. I don't know how long it will take, but the aeroelectric
manual, I ordered yesterday and can keep quite busy through downloaded
stuff I can actually get to.
I enrolled in the elearn site and that is also very well. If you find anything
in the form of projects, please feel free to let me know, and if you'd like,
we could execute it much like you've described, if I cannot access it through
the army's filter.
Thank you for your help and concern. My compliments to your generous spouse, as
well. My wife, Ellen, who is the family pilot, is the wind under my wings as
well.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Babb <tonybabb(at)alejandra.net>
Date: Saturday, July 19, 2003 8:53 am
Subject: Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> Drew,
>
> Ok, so we need to find a site that the army hasn't filtered,
> right. Once
> that's found all we need to do is put "stuff" there temporarily
> that you can
> download right? Can you access www.alejandra.net/velocity ? If so
> perhapsBob can suggest some suitable articles/ materials that can
> be downloaded
> from his site or elsewhere and uploaded to
> www.alejandra.net/velocity. We
> can leave them there until you're done downloading then I'll
> delete them.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics
> education question
>
>
> >
> > Thanks for the suggestion, John. Unfortunately, the army (who
> so kindly
> allows me access to this computer) has capriciously decided to
> filter out
> that site, as an evil "hobbies" site.
> >
> > I'll try to find a workaround to hack through the filter, (a guy
> has to
> have interests) but for now, that site is on the face of the moon,
> for me.
> >
> > Thanks for the interest. I really appreciate it.
> >
> > Drew
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Slade <sladerj(at)bellsouth.net>
> > Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:41 pm
> > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education
> question>
> > >
> > > > So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to
> > > > gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> > > > access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?"
> > > You could build one of the marker beacon / audio panel kits at
> > > http://rst-engr.com/
> > > John Slade
> > > Cozy IV
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > >
> ======================================================================> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: richard(at)riley.net
Date: Saturday, July 19, 2003 9:23 am
Subject: Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> Drew, try it this way, this gets past the filters in China and
> Iran right
> now...
>
> http://web.archive.org/web/20020122175550/http://rst-engr.com/
>
>
> >
> >Thanks for the suggestion, John. Unfortunately, the army (who so
> kindly
> >allows me access to this computer) has capriciously decided to
> filter out
> >that site, as an evil "hobbies" site.
> >
> >I'll try to find a workaround to hack through the filter, (a guy
> has to
> >have interests) but for now, that site is on the face of the
> moon, for me.
> >
> >Thanks for the interest. I really appreciate it.
> >
> >Drew
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: John Slade <sladerj(at)bellsouth.net>
> >Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:41 pm
> >Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education
> question>
> > >
> > > > So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to
> > > > gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> > > > access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?"
> > > You could build one of the marker beacon / audio panel kits at
> > > http://rst-engr.com/
> > > John Slade
> > > Cozy IV
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > >
> ======================================================================> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-conductor shielded wire source |
I spoke to Dynon and they said shielding isn't required, but it couldn't
hurt. They said what some people are doing is using 3-conductor shielded
wire and simply using the shield for ground. That's what I ended up doing
since I had plenty of 3-c wire around.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: 4-conductor shielded wire source
>
> Doh!! I just made that harness using unshielded wire. Where is
> shielded specified?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003 - The year of flight!
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan(at)rvproject.com]
> > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 4:30 PM
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: 4-conductor shielded wire source
> >
> >
> > -->
> >
> > Can anybody recommend a source for 4-conductor shielded wire?
> >
> > This is for the remote compass harness on the Dynon EFIS-D10.
> > Power, ground, tx, rx.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
> > ==========
> > Matronics Forums.
> > ==========
> > List members.
> > ==========
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> > Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> > ==========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
This message used to contain something that was derogatory, in a nice sort of way,
about the gentleman who rules our intranet with an iron fist. I find the
fact that he stripped the message and left the signature to be indicative of his
incredible sense of humor.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil
Date: Saturday, July 19, 2003 10:05 am
Subject: Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
>
> Drew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: richard(at)riley.net
> Date: Saturday, July 19, 2003 9:23 am
> Subject: Re: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics
> education question
>
> >
> > Drew, try it this way, this gets past the filters in China and
> > Iran right
> > now...
> >
> > http://web.archive.org/web/20020122175550/http://rst-engr.com/
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Thanks for the suggestion, John. Unfortunately, the army (who
> so
> > kindly
> > >allows me access to this computer) has capriciously decided to
> > filter out
> > >that site, as an evil "hobbies" site.
> > >
> > >I'll try to find a workaround to hack through the filter, (a
> guy
> > has to
> > >have interests) but for now, that site is on the face of the
> > moon, for me.
> > >
> > >Thanks for the interest. I really appreciate it.
> > >
> > >Drew
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: John Slade <sladerj(at)bellsouth.net>
> > >Date: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:41 pm
> > >Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education
> > question>
> > > >
> > > > > So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good
> way to
> > > > > gain experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited
> > > > > access to equipment I can actually touch a mess with?"
> > > > You could build one of the marker beacon / audio panel kits at
> > > > http://rst-engr.com/
> > > > John Slade
> > > > Cozy IV
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _-
> > > > _-
> > > > _-
> > > > _-
> > > >
> >
> ======================================================================> >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> >
> ======================================================================>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
In a message dated 7/18/03 10:07:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net writes:
> I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
> by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
> it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
> hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
> punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
> down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
> of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
> with Xacto knife and mount parts.
>
Good Morning Bob,
Have you ever tried it using the spray on photomount stuff instead of the
dry-mount material.
This is not a suggestion, just my curiosity!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion |
Of course, how much battery acid will a sealed RG battery like this
emit? I used a cad AN3 with a nut and lock washer. I'm happy to report
no corrosion in the week or so since making this change!
Jeff Point
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>What would you gain by using fine threads? I just put a new battery in my
>Bellanca today and they were coarse thread. Cad plate doesn't last long in
>battery acid.
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion |
Good point!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion
>
> Of course, how much battery acid will a sealed RG battery like this
> emit? I used a cad AN3 with a nut and lock washer. I'm happy to report
> no corrosion in the week or so since making this change!
>
> Jeff Point
>
> Cy Galley wrote:
>
> >
> >What would you gain by using fine threads? I just put a new battery in
my
> >Bellanca today and they were coarse thread. Cad plate doesn't last long
in
> >battery acid.
> >Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> >
> >Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> >cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
> >
> >Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Bob -
What is a suggested spacing between the Carling switches on the panel?
Thanks,
John
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lamp Assy. Need A Source.. |
Im working on a project for an some industrial equipment and I need a lamp
assembly as follows, (I seem to recall seeing these on GA airplanes)
Panel indicator lamp, made in a fashion similar to a Whelan instrument post
light, but the bulb is about 5/16" in diameter.
The bulb has a smooth, flanged base, no threads.
The bulb fits inside a 1/2" plastic "cube" that pushes into a flush mounted
socket from the front of the panel.
As I recall they were used in applications such as landing gear position
indicator lights, where you could pull the bulb from one socket and stick it in
the other to check if the gear had malfunctioned, or if the bulb was burned out.
Does anyone know who makes these and what the source might be?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Threadlocker on nuts |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Mark -
One more choice: Sport Aviation, Feb 03, p115: Nylock has a self sealing
patch to spray on the threads that will lock the bolts. Interesting
concept. Let me know if you try it.
John
O
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)wernerworld.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon encoder question |
A friend at the hangar is wiring up his Dynon encoder functions to a KT76
Transponder. The encoder has a "strobe" line out. The old Ameriking
encoder manual said to put this line to ground when using a KT76.
Is this the case with any encoder and should the Dynon "strobe" line also be
grounded? We're guessing so, but anyone with some knowledge here that can
point us right would be appreciated.
Russ Werner
HRII
Copy:
rv-list
aeroelectric-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Temporairily off list |
Signing off the list for about 10 days.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion |
My goal would be higher compression pressure giving a lower resistance and more
moisture resistant connection. Also the bolts supplied with the battery have
an odd whitish cast making them appear to be a bit brittle whether they are or
not.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
Use 1.0 inches for all switches.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA RV-6A, 3rd panel, I got it right.
John Schroeder wrote:
>
> Bob -
>
> What is a suggested spacing between the Carling switches on the panel?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> --
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
I ended up using 1.0", which is a fair bit wider than what most people seem
to use (0.8 I belive).
http://www.rvproject.com/20030615.html
That page shows what I call a "switch spacing matrix," which is just a piece
of scrap with switch holes drilled in various spacings. Just do this and
you can play with it yourself before committing to it, feel what you're
comfortable with, etc.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schroeder" <jschroeder(at)perigee.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch Spacing
>
> Bob -
>
> What is a suggested spacing between the Carling switches on the panel?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
I used 0.8 inches. Seems to have worked out fine.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Schroeder [mailto:jschroeder(at)perigee.net]
> Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 1:35 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch Spacing
>
>
> -->
>
> Bob -
>
> What is a suggested spacing between the Carling switches on the panel?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg's Mail" <50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com> |
Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
Greg Davis RV 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Check with the relay manufacturer to get the clamping amperage, should
be less than one amp. And I'd really advise you to NOT put a starter
switch on your stick grip.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Greg's Mail
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Infinity grip
<50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com>
Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
Greg Davis RV 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably variable
rheostat I should use for my project.
What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current 12
volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything else
in the system.
I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off, LOW
drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high drawing
full current.
If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a 91.2
ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ?? I
assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink it
??
I would rather use a Knob to have total control over the fan via maybe a
rheostat ?? Is that possible ?? Again what wattage ?? Or heat sink
requirements.
And finally, Am I missing something obvious that you would suggest ? right
now the circuit would have power source, circuit breaker, switch or rheostat
and blower ??
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RSwanson" <rswan19(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
One thing you might do is use an auto resistor set. I'm really only
familiar with the older Chrysler cars, but they have a set of resistor
wires in the airstream and never give any problem. Might work.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
>
> I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably
variable
> rheostat I should use for my project.
>
> What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current
12
> volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything
else
> in the system.
>
> I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off,
LOW
> drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high
drawing
> full current.
>
> If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a
91.2
> ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ?? I
> assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink
it
> ??
>
> I would rather use a Knob to have total control over the fan via maybe a
> rheostat ?? Is that possible ?? Again what wattage ?? Or heat sink
> requirements.
>
> And finally, Am I missing something obvious that you would suggest ?
right
> now the circuit would have power source, circuit breaker, switch or
rheostat
> and blower ??
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jeffrey.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
Jeffrey W. Skiba wrote:
>
>I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably variable
>rheostat I should use for my project.
>
>What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current 12
>volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything else
>in the system.
>
>I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off, LOW
>drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high drawing
>full current.
>
>If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a 91.2
>ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ?? I
>assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink it
>??
>
>
I do not think you got it right. 44.4 ohm resistor with no motor in
the loop would limit the current to only 270 mA, but you need several
amps there.
For the first case you are looking for ~2/3 of the 12V voltage on the
resistor i.e. ~8V, and that gives 2.16 ohm. For the second case it is a
half of 12V i.e. the resistance is ~0.790 ohm. Keep in mind the power
generated in these resistors. For the first case it is ~30W, for the
second case it is ~46W. You would have to use hefty resistors there. A
switching regulator is clearly a much better solution.
Jerzy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann(at)kyol.net> |
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15 or
about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a bit.
A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
on RC cars, just a though.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jeffrey W. Skiba
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably
variable
rheostat I should use for my project.
What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current
12
volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything
else
in the system.
I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off,
LOW
drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high
drawing
full current.
If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a
91.2
ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ??
I
assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink
it
??
I would rather use a Knob to have total control over the fan via maybe a
rheostat ?? Is that possible ?? Again what wattage ?? Or heat sink
requirements.
And finally, Am I missing something obvious that you would suggest ?
right
now the circuit would have power source, circuit breaker, switch or
rheostat
and blower ??
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip |
><50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com>
>
>Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
>The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
>to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
>Greg Davis RV 4
Any STARTER contactor worthy of the name will draw 4-10 amps
depending on it's pedigree . . . some will draw 20-30A peak
during initial engagement sequence. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
If your "Ford solenoid" looks like this contactor . . .
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702-1l.jpg
then it will probably draw 3-5 amps with no particularly
large inrush like that discussed in the article.
Your 8A rated switch would probably live well driving
this style of contactor -IF- you're sure to include
the arc suppression diode across the coil. The
S704-1 non-stc contactor sold by B&C has this diode
built in. If in doubt as to the existence of a diode,
then a 1N540x series diode from Radio Shack. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Diodes.jpg
Banded end to "S" terminal
See:
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702wire.jpg
an other end to a PIDG terminal around a mounting
bold at the base of the contactor.
Now, having decided that the switch in your stick
grip may indeed live with this application, are you
sure you REALLY want the starter button on the stick
grip? Do you plan some kind of lockout circuitry
to prevent inadvertent operation of starter after
the engine is running?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg's Mail" <50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip |
Bob, My starter solenoid looks like this ,from Vans
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1058730441-36-306&brow
se=electrical&product=start-sw
Do you think this would work Ok? with the diode and yes
I will definitely have a disarming switch or the circuit you
show in Z-27 of your book, I also have one electronic ign.
Thanks, Greg Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Infinity grip
>
> ><50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com>
> >
> >Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
> >The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
> >to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
> >Greg Davis RV 4
>
> Any STARTER contactor worthy of the name will draw 4-10 amps
> depending on it's pedigree . . . some will draw 20-30A peak
> during initial engagement sequence. See:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
>
> If your "Ford solenoid" looks like this contactor . . .
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702-1l.jpg
>
> then it will probably draw 3-5 amps with no particularly
> large inrush like that discussed in the article.
>
> Your 8A rated switch would probably live well driving
> this style of contactor -IF- you're sure to include
> the arc suppression diode across the coil. The
> S704-1 non-stc contactor sold by B&C has this diode
> built in. If in doubt as to the existence of a diode,
> then a 1N540x series diode from Radio Shack. See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Diodes.jpg
>
> Banded end to "S" terminal
>
> See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702wire.jpg
>
> an other end to a PIDG terminal around a mounting
> bold at the base of the contactor.
>
> Now, having decided that the switch in your stick
> grip may indeed live with this application, are you
> sure you REALLY want the starter button on the stick
> grip? Do you plan some kind of lockout circuitry
> to prevent inadvertent operation of starter after
> the engine is running?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-conductor shielded wire source |
>
>Can anybody recommend a source for 4-conductor shielded wire?
>
>This is for the remote compass harness on the Dynon EFIS-D10. Power,
>ground, tx, rx.
3 + shield works too. Use shield for ground. B&C
stocks this at
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?8X358218
Shielded trio second up from bottom of page.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon encoder question |
>
>A friend at the hangar is wiring up his Dynon encoder functions to a KT76
>Transponder. The encoder has a "strobe" line out. The old Ameriking
>encoder manual said to put this line to ground when using a KT76.
>
>Is this the case with any encoder and should the Dynon "strobe" line also be
>grounded? We're guessing so, but anyone with some knowledge here that can
>point us right would be appreciated.
When in doubt, call the manufacturer . . . nobody will know more
about their stuff than they do. Their phone number is (425)402-0433
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
>
>
>Bob -
>
>What is a suggested spacing between the Carling switches on the panel?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John
I like 0.8"
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
>
>In a message dated 7/18/03 10:07:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
>bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net writes:
>
> > I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
> > by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
> > it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
> > hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
> > punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
> > down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
> > of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
> > with Xacto knife and mount parts.
> >
>
>Good Morning Bob,
>
>Have you ever tried it using the spray on photomount stuff instead of the
>dry-mount material.
>
>This is not a suggestion, just my curiosity!
Yes. it's similar to a number of spray-on contact
adhesives and messy (overspray). The dry mount stuff lets you apply
adhesive to the back of your placard and leave a peel-off
protective sheet in place until you're ready to mount it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rondefly" <rondefly(at)rtriano.com> |
Is it possible to run a 28V transponder from a 12V system? To get the
additional transmit power and is it worth it.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
>In a message dated 7/18/03 10:07:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
>bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net writes:
>
> > I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
> > by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
> > it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
> > hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
> > punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
> > down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
> > of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
> > with Xacto knife and mount parts.
> >
>
>Good Morning Bob,
>
>Have you ever tried it using the spray on photomount stuff instead of the
>dry-mount material.
>
>This is not a suggestion, just my curiosity!
Yes. it's similar to a number of spray-on contact
adhesives and messy (overspray). The dry mount stuff lets you apply
adhesive to the back of your placard and leave a peel-off
protective sheet in place until you're ready to mount it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rondefly" <rondefly(at)rtriano.com> |
Sorry, I asked for a transponder and should have said trancever.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rondefly
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 28 Volt radio
Is it possible to run a 28V transponder from a 12V system? To get the
additional transmit power and is it worth it.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
>In a message dated 7/18/03 10:07:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
>bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net writes:
>
> > I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
> > by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
> > it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
> > hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
> > punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
> > down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
> > of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
> > with Xacto knife and mount parts.
> >
>
>Good Morning Bob,
>
>Have you ever tried it using the spray on photomount stuff instead of the
>dry-mount material.
>
>This is not a suggestion, just my curiosity!
Yes. it's similar to a number of spray-on contact
adhesives and messy (overspray). The dry mount stuff lets you apply
adhesive to the back of your placard and leave a peel-off
protective sheet in place until you're ready to mount it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Hester <kevinh-unfiltered(at)sneakyfrog.com> |
| Subject: | Narco ID-825 VOR/LOC/GS Indicator and Apollo SL-30 |
Hi ya'll,
Does anyone know if this particular CDI will play with one of those new
shiny Apollo SL-30 nav/comms? Perhaps someone has a web page showing a
compatibility matrix?
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip |
><50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com>
>
> Bob, My starter solenoid looks like this ,from Vans
>
>http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1058730441-36-306&brow
>se=electrical&product=start-sw
>
>Do you think this would work Ok? with the diode and yes
>I will definitely have a disarming switch or the circuit you
>show in Z-27 of your book, I also have one electronic ign.
> Thanks, Greg Davis
I am unfamiliar with this product. Unless you can
see the word "diode" imprinted on the outside anywhere,
assume no diode is installed internally. I see only
one small terminal so it doesn't have an "I" terminal
like ours. The only 10-32 terminal is the "S" for switch
terminal. Diode goes from S terminal to mounting foot
as described earlier.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>Sorry, I asked for a transponder and should have said trancever.
>
>Ron Triano
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rondefly
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: 28 Volt radio
>
>
>Is it possible to run a 28V transponder from a 12V system? To get the
>additional transmit power and is it worth it.
Probably not. There are other possible effects more profound
than a simple loss of power output. A 12 to 28v up-converter
is indicated.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15 or
>about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire current & Resistance for 26ga wire. |
>
>Hello need some help on wire sizing, all my wire size charts only go up to 24
>GA wire The vans instruments have 26 GA wire for the instrument lighting and
>the charts don't give me the maximum current (amps) and resistance (ohms/ft)
>IM looking for. What I want to do is connect one light to the next for six
>lights but the wire coming from the lights is only 26 gage and I don't
>know if at
>the end when I have one 26 GA wire powering 6 instrument lights is big
>enough.
> maybe this is not the way to wire them but how do I get 6 wires onto the
> one
>screw on the circuit breaker. Thanks for any input.
Bill,
Sounds like you're working with Westach instruments. Here's a comic
book on dealing with those or any other instruments that give you
short pigtails for internal lighting.
http://216.55.140.222/articles/InstLight1/InstLight1.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
I am fairly handy with a soldering iron just not the fastest on design stuff
(thanks for the help by the way guys), I can figure out a lot of stuff after
being pointed in the right direction or given some extra help, How would one
go about creating this pulse width module (Duty cycle switching) ?? Diagrams
maybe....parts required ?
It sounds like this is exactly what I want...the variable speed control via
a dial and runs cool.
I do not plan on having ADF or Loran only GPS, VOR, ILS, marker beacons,
transponder, com.
The current values were measured with the 12volt dc motor running full power
(aka 15 amps was max it actually settled down to about 14.8 or so after it
was running)
Thanks
Jeffrey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
-->
>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15
>or about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a
>bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion |
>
>I'm thinking of replacing the 3/16 coarse thread bolts that came with my
>Panasonic LC-RD1217P battery with cadmium plated fine thread AN bolts. Do
>the Panasonic bolts have any special corrosion prevention properties that
>would be lost by going to cadmium plate?
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
You can use any kind of hardware you like. RG batteries
don't eat on their own hardware like flooded batteries do.
Caution, did the Panasonic come with recommended torque values
for supplied hardware? Does the Panasonic battery have thick
lead posts or do they appear to be thinner and harder stuff?
If thick lead posts -AND- if they gave you idea torque values,
then there is risk of over-pressure on the soft posts when
going to finer pitch thread which will produce more force at
same torque.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Bob -
Thanks. Another question: Been looking at the Carling website and cannot
find the series of switches that B&C carry. I'm looking for the dimensions
and specs needed to accurately plot them in AutoCAD. Will be sending the
file off for a CNC/CAD cutting of the aluminum panels.
Thanks,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lamp Assy. Need A Source.. |
>
>Im working on a project for an some industrial equipment and I need a lamp
>assembly as follows, (I seem to recall seeing these on GA airplanes)
>
>Panel indicator lamp, made in a fashion similar to a Whelan instrument post
>light, but the bulb is about 5/16" in diameter.
>The bulb has a smooth, flanged base, no threads.
>The bulb fits inside a 1/2" plastic "cube" that pushes into a flush mounted
>socket from the front of the panel.
>As I recall they were used in applications such as landing gear position
>indicator lights, where you could pull the bulb from one socket and stick
>it in
>the other to check if the gear had malfunctioned, or if the bulb was
>burned out.
>
>Does anyone know who makes these and what the source might be?
Your description doesn't ring any bells. I don't recall
any lamp that matches your recollection.
I've uploaded a couple of miniature lamp catalogs. Perhaps
you'll recognize the lamp in one of these.
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/GE/Miniature_SealedBeam.pdf
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/Phillips/mini_seal.pdf
. . . you mentioned a post light but what you describe
sounds more like an annunciator fixture.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann(at)kyol.net> |
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
You might be able to buy a PWM controller from a hobby shop. Look for
one they use on RC cars. Not sure how much current they handle, or how
your vary the speed, but I assume the current would be close, and the
control would be external by some sort of pot (I think the radio
controls a servo that turns a pot that feeds the PWM controller, but I'm
not sure).
If this doesn't work, I'm sure bob can whip you up a circuit you can
build.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jeffrey W. Skiba
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
I am fairly handy with a soldering iron just not the fastest on design
stuff
(thanks for the help by the way guys), I can figure out a lot of stuff
after
being pointed in the right direction or given some extra help, How would
one
go about creating this pulse width module (Duty cycle switching) ??
Diagrams
maybe....parts required ?
It sounds like this is exactly what I want...the variable speed control
via
a dial and runs cool.
I do not plan on having ADF or Loran only GPS, VOR, ILS, marker beacons,
transponder, com.
The current values were measured with the 12volt dc motor running full
power
(aka 15 amps was max it actually settled down to about 14.8 or so after
it
was running)
Thanks
Jeffrey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
-->
>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15
>or about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a
>bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
>
>
>Bob -
>
>Thanks. Another question: Been looking at the Carling website and cannot
>find the series of switches that B&C carry. I'm looking for the dimensions
>and specs needed to accurately plot them in AutoCAD. Will be sending the
>file off for a CNC/CAD cutting of the aluminum panels.
>
>Thanks,
See http://www.bandc.biz/Toggle_Switch.html
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lamp Assy. Need A Source.. |
In a message dated 7/20/2003 10:12:00 PM Central Daylight Time,
bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net writes:
> http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/Phillips/mini_seal.pdf
Yes it is an annuciator, but its construction is very much like a Whelan Post
light!
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard(at)riley.net |
| Subject: | Re: XM Radio whine |
Thanks to those that wrote. It looks like there's a ground loop
*somewhere* but I'll be damned if I can find it. It certainly isn't in the
wiring to the radio, it must be somewhere else in the system.
A ground loop filter from radio shack has taken care of 90% of the problem.
>
>A friend of mine has just installed a Delphi XM radio in a Berkut 540,
>feeding a PS 2000 intercom. We're using Lightspeed headsets.
>
>Prior to the radio install the audio system was fine, now there's a very
>loud high pitched whine. The whine varies pitch directly with engine RPM.
>
>Three things make the whine stop completely - shutting off the alt. field,
>disconnecting the audio output from the XM radio to the music input of the
>intercom, and disconnecting the power going to the XM radio. Turning the
>radio off doesn't stop the whine.
>
>The radio was wired directly to the battery (with an inline fuse), then
>wired to the battery through a 20 amp Radio Shack noise filter. The filter
>does nothing.
>
>We're about to fly from Los Angeles to Kitty Hawk, to Dayton, Oshkosh,
>Texas and back to LA. Music would make the trip much nicer. Any suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
I was surfing around and it appears that the highest freq RC car controllers
go to is 4 KHZ (not 15 KHZ as suggested)
I was also surfing looking for a simple PWM motor controller diagram I could
build but either they include a whole bunch of what appears to be Extra
stuff Reverse, braking etc... Or they are way to low on the Freq 400 Hz, or
they are way short on current requirement (can only handle 1 amp) or all of
the above.
Any ideas Guys ??
Thanks Jeffrey.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shannon
Knoepflein
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
-->
You might be able to buy a PWM controller from a hobby shop. Look for one
they use on RC cars. Not sure how much current they handle, or how your
vary the speed, but I assume the current would be close, and the control
would be external by some sort of pot (I think the radio controls a servo
that turns a pot that feeds the PWM controller, but I'm not sure).
If this doesn't work, I'm sure bob can whip you up a circuit you can build.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey
W. Skiba
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
I am fairly handy with a soldering iron just not the fastest on design stuff
(thanks for the help by the way guys), I can figure out a lot of stuff after
being pointed in the right direction or given some extra help, How would one
go about creating this pulse width module (Duty cycle switching) ?? Diagrams
maybe....parts required ?
It sounds like this is exactly what I want...the variable speed control via
a dial and runs cool.
I do not plan on having ADF or Loran only GPS, VOR, ILS, marker beacons,
transponder, com. The current values were measured with the 12volt dc motor
running full power (aka 15 amps was max it actually settled down to about
14.8 or so after it was running)
Thanks
Jeffrey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
-->
>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15
>or about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a
>bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
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Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RFI problems with Van's gages |
>BOB,
>
>HAVE YOU HAD A CHANCE TO LOOK INTO VANS GAGES (SPECIFICALLY THE MANIFOLD
>PRESSURE AND AMP METER) PROBLEMS WHICH KEEP CROPPING UP WHEN TRANSMITTING?
>
>I'VE GOT EM AND CAN WAVE A TRANSMITTING HANDHELD AROUND THE PANEL AND MAKE
>THE GAGES DANCE. SAME THING WITH THE GNS430 WHEN TRANSMITTING.
>
>I DO HAVE SINGLE POINT GROUNDING, SO DO NOT THINK THAT THIS IS A SIMPLE
>WIRING ISSUE.
I think you're right. From what I've learned so far about
these instruments is that they have some active devices
inside (transistors, ic's, etc.) that are probably not
well configured for RF immunity. Not an uncommon problem
with wannabe aircraft parts suppliers that haven't done
their homework.
Have you talked with Van's about these? I'd be willing
to help the manufacturer clean up his act.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XM Radio whine |
>
>A friend of mine has just installed a Delphi XM radio in a Berkut 540,
>feeding a PS 2000 intercom. We're using Lightspeed headsets.
>
>Prior to the radio install the audio system was fine, now there's a very
>loud high pitched whine. The whine varies pitch directly with engine RPM.
>
>Three things make the whine stop completely - shutting off the alt. field,
>disconnecting the audio output from the XM radio to the music input of the
>intercom, and disconnecting the power going to the XM radio. Turning the
>radio off doesn't stop the whine.
>
>The radio was wired directly to the battery (with an inline fuse), then
>wired to the battery through a 20 amp Radio Shack noise filter. The filter
>does nothing.
>
>We're about to fly from Los Angeles to Kitty Hawk, to Dayton, Oshkosh,
>Texas and back to LA. Music would make the trip much nicer. Any suggestions?
This sounds like a ground loop problem. ALL accessories should be
grounded to the single point ground. At the least, the radio needs to
ground at the same place as the audio system. A power line filter will have
no effect on a ground loop induced noise.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: alternator wires |
>
>You guys did such a good job w/ the first question, I
>will see it I can solve another.
>
>My nippon Denso alternator has a plug w/ three wires.
>
>There are marked IG, DL and L. Big white, black w/
>yellow stripe, and yellow respectively.
>
>I got it on the big white wire, its the current out
>wire.
>
>One of the others is the field or excitation and the
>other may be a indicator light or something.
>
>Which which is which.
>
>thanks
>
>cary
I'm guessing but I suspect the alternator will function
using only the IG wire as the control lead. Leave
other leads un-connected.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WESTACH instrument lighting, new link |
>
> Bill,
>
> Sounds like you're working with Westach instruments. Here's a comic
> book on dealing with those or any other instruments that give you
> short pigtails for internal lighting.
>
> http://216.55.140.222/articles/InstLight1/InstLight1.html
>
> Bob . . .
I've added a wiring diagram to go with the original Shop Notes and
organized the linkage a bit better. The new link to this article
and companion drawing is:
http://216.55.140.222/articles/Instrument_Lighting/westachlights.html
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Icom A-200 pinout |
>
>
>Anyone out there have a pinout diagram for the Icom A-200 radio?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Landmann
go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: generating .pdf files . . . |
>
>
>
>Just trying to get a better understanding of how to REALLY convert from dwg
>or dxf to readable pdf.
What software are you using to edit .dwg files and
what utility are you using to generate .pdf files.
I use ACAD2000 and Acrobat 5.0.
When you "print" to Acrobat, ACAD lets you set up
a template for Acrobat as a unique printer where
you can control the lineweight of each color.
Really easy to use and improves your .pdf output
a bunch.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe shield grounding question |
>
>(sorry if this is a duplicate message)
>
>I'm installing the Whelen Comet Flash power supply (single central p/s for
>both wingtip and tail strobes) in my RV-7, and I'm a little confused about
>how I should ground the shielding on the strobe wires.
>
>The Whelen instructions say to "GROUND SHIELD WIRE AT POWER SUPPLY END."
>
>Now, if I didn't know any better, I would just run 'em to a ring terminal
>and locally ground them to one of the power supply mount bolts.
Yup, that's what I would do too . . .
>But I *think* I know better...and would like to run the ground all the way
>back to the 24/48 ground tab forest at the firewall. The question is this:
>can "this ground" share the same wire as the power supply's ground wire, or
>should it be run separately?
>
>Or...am I really over-thinking this and locally grounding the shield won't
>induce any noise?
>
>I really don't mind running an extra wire to insure that there won't be
>noise, but if I can share the existing 14AWG ground wire I'll be a happy
>camper.
Ground to the power supply mounting bolt. Shields are ALWAYS system
specific and will tie to some feature on a system connector or to
the case. They never get pigtails to a remote ground point . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann(at)kyol.net> |
I'm getting a similar problem with my fuel probes from Electronics
International. When I transmit over the 430 or the sl30, the fuel
quantity goes towards zero. There are two small black plastic boxes
that house the electronics. I'm not really sure what to try. I'm
thinking of trying to move them. However, I already have them as far
away from the comm coax as possible...all the way to the right of the
panel, while comm. is in center and feeds out to left. Wire is shielded
3 conductor. Any thoughts.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann(at)kyol.net
>I'VE GOT EM AND CAN WAVE A TRANSMITTING HANDHELD AROUND THE PANEL AND
MAKE
>THE GAGES DANCE. SAME THING WITH THE GNS430 WHEN TRANSMITTING.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip |
I installed the relay..............Dont remember exactly why, but at the
time it made sense. Dosent Infinity recommend a relay? I dont remember. I
HIGHLY RECOMMEND BONDING ON SOME TYPE OF SWITCH PROTECTION!!!!!!!! Lets
just say that the switch got bumped buy the guy in the cocpit while I was
working on the engine, with the prop on!!!! This switch is very dangerous
while working on the plane with more than one person around. No one was
hurt and I am actually glad it happened the way it did. Switch guard WILL
be fabricated!!
><50coperhed(at)jbntelco.com>
>
>Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
>The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
>to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
>Greg Davis RV 4
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap |
Mark, John,
Thanks for your replies.
I'm not entirely sure which LR3C I'm using. I've been under the
seemingly-mistaken idea that there's just one model -- the incandescent
version.
Bob, if you're reading this, can you throw any light on the subject, and in
particular whether I can just put the LR3C lamp output into Mark's nifty
annunciator circuit. Can you describe how the LR3C lights its lamp?
Many thanks.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Annunciator Panel on the cheap
>
> Hi Nev-
>
> I had John send me a copy of the bi-color LED lamp unit he sent you. If I
> understand this thing correctly, the bi-color LED simply is two LEDs
connected
> backwards to each other, which you could do on the annunciator blocks as
well, using
> much smaller resistor values- bear in mind that your 30mm long blocks each
have 5
> LEDs in them. If the intermediate LED terminals are connected in series
(as shown
> on my drawing with 3 in series) the appropriate resistor would normally be
220 ohms
> for 20mA flow, or about 180 ohms to overdrive them to about 30mA as shown
on my
> drawing.
>
> If I understand your question below about using the LEDs instead of the
bulb, I'm
> not sure if it would work with your regulator, as the bi-color feature
appears
> unique to that particular model LR3C regulator (I think!) It is important
to know
> how the LR3 handles the light output- it appears to be a ground path for
the warning
> lamp on the drawing John sent. I'm guessing that in normal operation there
is
> voltage applied by the regulator on pin #5 to the bi-polar LED, causing the
green
> one to light- if an undervoltage condition, I would guess that pin 5 is
switched to
> ground, causing the red one to light.
>
> It appears that the LR3s come in at least 3 flavors- one for incandescent
lamp, one
> for single LED, and the bi-polar. Which model LR3 regulator are you using,
and do
> you have a link to an AeroElectric drawing for this regulator similar to
the one
> John sent you? I could take a look at it and query Bob as to the correct
connect
> you wish to employ. Note in my drawing that I am using one of Bobs
9005-201 Low
> Voltage Monitor Modules and a generic regulator instead of the LR3.
>
> Mark
>
> John Schroeder wrote:
>
> >
> > Nev -
> >
> > I'm going to pipe both of our LR3C regulator lights to the annunciator.
Bob
> > drew up the resistor arrangement (needs 2 per LED). I have a copy and
will
> > send it to you via separate email.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > John
> >
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Mark,
> > >
> > > I'm definitely in on this, and I've been meaning to ask you about
> > > connecting
> > > to different input levels... but I just twigged that you can support
both
> > > those indicator feeds that are +ve and those that are -ve. Cunning.
> > >
> > > I've got some of the LED light bars on order. I've gone for the 30 x
7mm
> > > ones.
> > >
> > > Here's a further question for you or Bob, or anyone else using the LR3C
> > > alternator controller -- can I use your LED setup in place of the
> > > B&C-supplied bulb? It looks as though the output from the LR3C could
fit
> > > right into the "+ve feed" part of your annunciator.
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com" <bob(at)flyboybob.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe shield grounding question |
Bob (Nuckolls) wrote:
Ground to the power supply mounting bolt. Shields are ALWAYS system
specific and will tie to some feature on a system connector or to
the case. They never get pigtails to a remote ground point . . .
My understanding is that shields should only be connected on one end to
prevent introduction of ground loops through the shield. It doesn't matter
which end of the shield is grounded as it only serves to block radiation of
FRI from the enclosed wires to other systems. Do you concur with my
recollection or do I need some retraining?
Regards,
Bob (Lee)
______________________________
N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
91% done only 51% to go!
Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
http://flyboybob.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Switch-breaker same style as toggle switch? |
Hi guys,
I note in the Aeroelectric Connection, Bob recommends using a switch breaker
for ground power connector o/v protection. A good idea, but does anyone know
whether the switch breakers are exactly the same size and look as the toggles
that I've bought from B&C?
Many thanks.
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress
UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe shield grounding question |
Let me address these in the opposite order:
> My understanding is that shields should only be connected on one end to
> prevent introduction of ground loops through the shield. It doesn't
matter
> which end of the shield is grounded as it only serves to block radiation
of
> FRI from the enclosed wires to other systems. Do you concur with my
> recollection or do I need some retraining?
That's exactly what Whelen recommends...grounding the shields at the power
supply end, but leaving them unattached at the strobe lamp ends.
> Ground to the power supply mounting bolt. Shields are ALWAYS system
> specific and will tie to some feature on a system connector or to
> the case. They never get pigtails to a remote ground point . . .
I'm not sure I agree with this, or maybe I don't understand the concepts
(likely). If you're gonna ground the shields to the airframe at the power
supply, why not ground them all the way back to the firewall ground block?
It just seems like that's where the electrons are going anyway...give 'em
the shortest, simplest path, right?
I guess I need to slow down or something, because yesterday I soldered the
shields to the power supply ground wire (goes back to the forest tabs on the
firewall), as pictured here:
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030720_shields_grounded.jpg
Please let me know if you think this was a BAD move, and not just possibly
superfluous.
Again, just so you don't get the wrong idea, the sheilds are grounded like
this ONLY at the power supply end.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strobe shield grounding question |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
I don't know if it depends on the application, but I can tell you that the
UPS SL30 and MC200-306 I wired recently explicitly said to ground both
ends of the shield for the resolver wires.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com said:
> mail.flyboybob.com"
>
> Bob (Nuckolls) wrote:
>
> Ground to the power supply mounting bolt. Shields are ALWAYS system
> specific and will tie to some feature on a system connector or to
> the case. They never get pigtails to a remote ground point . . .
>
> My understanding is that shields should only be connected on one end to
> prevent introduction of ground loops through the shield. It doesn't
> matter
> which end of the shield is grounded as it only serves to block radiation
> of
> FRI from the enclosed wires to other systems. Do you concur with my
> recollection or do I need some retraining?
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob (Lee)
> ______________________________
> N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
> 91% done only 51% to go!
> Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
> mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
> http://flyboybob.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe shield grounding question |
In a message dated 7/21/03 12:16:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
Larry(at)BowenAero.com writes:
> I don't know if it depends on the application, but I can tell you that the
> UPS SL30 and MC200-306 I wired recently explicitly said to ground both
> ends of the shield for the resolver wires.
>
Good Afternoon Larry,
Did the directions say to actually ground the shield to a ship's ground point
at each end or did it tell you to connect the shield at each end to something
on the component?
In some cases, the shield is used as the ground return to the main component.
The rest of the auxiliary component is isolated from the ship's ground.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe shield grounding question |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
Hi Bob.
On the component. I'm going by these instructions
http://www.upsat.com/dwnlds/sldoc/sl30-ins-03.pdf
Page 22, the notes at the bottom.
I'm still not 100% certain I did it right. The chasis of the MD200 seems
to be isolated from everything. There is no continuity between it and the
mounting screws or even the d-sub in the back of it.
Most of this is still black-magic from my point of view.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
BobsV35B(at)aol.com said:
>
> In a message dated 7/21/03 12:16:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com writes:
>
>> I don't know if it depends on the application, but I can tell you that
>> the
>> UPS SL30 and MC200-306 I wired recently explicitly said to ground both
>> ends of the shield for the resolver wires.
>>
>
> Good Afternoon Larry,
>
> Did the directions say to actually ground the shield to a ship's ground
> point
> at each end or did it tell you to connect the shield at each end to
> something
> on the component?
>
> In some cases, the shield is used as the ground return to the main
> component.
> The rest of the auxiliary component is isolated from the ship's ground.
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cary rhodes <rhodeseng(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | hi or lo headset wires |
Bob
Good to see you are back
In my wiring harness I have a cable of multiple wires
in a shielded case headed for the mic and headset
jacks.
The diagram shows a HI and Lo designation on the mic
and headphone wires.
I'm thinking impedance here, but that's about as far
as my knowledge goes.
Which wire should I solder to the respective pins on
the jack??
HI or LO
thanks
cary rhodes
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe shield grounding question |
>mail.flyboybob.com"
>
>Bob (Nuckolls) wrote:
>
>Ground to the power supply mounting bolt. Shields are ALWAYS system
> specific and will tie to some feature on a system connector or to
> the case. They never get pigtails to a remote ground point . . .
>
>My understanding is that shields should only be connected on one end to
>prevent introduction of ground loops through the shield. It doesn't matter
>which end of the shield is grounded as it only serves to block radiation of
>FRI from the enclosed wires to other systems. Do you concur with my
>recollection or do I need some retraining?
>
>Regards,
>
>Bob (Lee)
Shields use purely as electro-static coupling breaks
between adjacent wires needs to be grounded at one end only. Adding
a ground at the other end will not make it work better and it MIGHT
cause a new problem with ground loop induced noises.
Some installers use shields as ground returns in addition to
electro-static shielding. This the case, installation wiring
diagrams are explicit as to where you hook the shields. For example,
I show headset and microphone wiring carried on shielded single
and trio wires in the installation manual I did for the Microair
760VHF . . . the radio would probably work fine and noise free
had these circuits been simply wired with open, twisted wires and no
shielding. In this case, getting the wires already assembled
in a twisted mini-bundle with a shield was a convenience. The
shield is useful to insure concentricity of the bundle's
magnetic fields for reduced susceptibility to noise in addition
to providing a ground return for the remote component . . .
its benefits as an electro-static shield are not necessary
nor utilized in this case.
Check out the headset and microphone wiring in
http://216.55.140.222/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
where you'll see that shield termination at both ends
of the run are quite explicit.
The short story is that there is no single, hard rule for use of
shielded wire and terminating the shield. Unless the schematic
shows otherwise, hook up one end only and as depicted on the
diagram. If it wants you to hook up both ends, it should
be equally explicit. And whether or not the designer intended
the shielding to work as electrostatic de-coupling, electromagnetic
de-coupling, or just as another wire in the bundle . . . you'll
have to ask because it cannot always be deduced by dissecting
the wiring diagram.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RFI problems |
>
>
>I'm getting a similar problem with my fuel probes from Electronics
>International. When I transmit over the 430 or the sl30, the fuel
>quantity goes towards zero. There are two small black plastic boxes
>that house the electronics. I'm not really sure what to try. I'm
>thinking of trying to move them. However, I already have them as far
>away from the comm coax as possible...all the way to the right of the
>panel, while comm. is in center and feeds out to left. Wire is shielded
>3 conductor. Any thoughts.
Your coax doesn't radiate as long as there is a reasonable
antenna on the other end. Sounds like another case of inattention
to details for a device intended to operate in close proximity
with very strong VHF signals.
What kind of airplane and where are antennas with respect to
victim system?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hi or lo headset wires |
Cary, I forget where I dug this image up, but anyway, I found it helpful:
http://www.rvproject.com/images/jack_wiring.jpg
For the mic: HI goes to the Ring, LO goes to the barrel/ground.
For the headset: HI goes to the Tip, LO goes to the barrel/ground.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "cary rhodes" <rhodeseng(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: hi or lo headset wires
>
> Bob
>
> Good to see you are back
>
> In my wiring harness I have a cable of multiple wires
> in a shielded case headed for the mic and headset
> jacks.
>
> The diagram shows a HI and Lo designation on the mic
> and headphone wires.
>
> I'm thinking impedance here, but that's about as far
> as my knowledge goes.
>
> Which wire should I solder to the respective pins on
> the jack??
>
> HI or LO
>
> thanks
>
> cary rhodes
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmfpublic(at)comcast.net |
(Aeroelectric-List)
| Subject: | RE: Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
Jeff,
Just take the RC pulse width controller with the smallest output that you can
find, and use it to drive the gate of one more more paralleled field effect
transistors. The FETs are either enhancement or depletion gate types, and they
will be driven on or off by the zero to 12 volt output of the pulse width
modulator. The motor load goes in series with "source" lead of the FET.
The "gate" lead may need a 100 ohm resistor to ground to provide some sort of
load for the pulse width controller.
If you want, the data sheet for the 555 IC shows various pulse width
oscillators, but then you would need to do a little more building. It would be
cleaner to use the 555 IC and put everything on one circuit board. Here is one
link, go to page 8 http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/SA/SA555.pdf
For cheap FETs try http://allelectronics.com and look for the CAT# IRF540N
which is good for 33 amps. Less than a dollar. By the way, you will need a
diode from the +12 volt terminal of the fan to ground, so that the reverse
voltage won't go too far negative during the "off" periods of the PW
modulator. This is just like the diode across the contactor coil that Bob
talks about. If you need to parallel the FETs for enough current, they
parallel nicely: load sharing works with these, unlike regular transistors.
Where did you find that monster 15 amp fan? Best I could find was 4 amps for a
12 volt blower to help cool my plane.
Jim Foerster
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap |
>
>
>Mark, John,
>
>Thanks for your replies.
>
>I'm not entirely sure which LR3C I'm using. I've been under the
>seemingly-mistaken idea that there's just one model -- the incandescent
>version.
That's correct.
>Bob, if you're reading this, can you throw any light on the subject, and in
>particular whether I can just put the LR3C lamp output into Mark's nifty
>annunciator circuit. Can you describe how the LR3C lights its lamp?
I published a circuit for adapting a single LED to the output
of the LR3 at:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/LV_Led.jpg
The LR3 lamp driver is an open collector, pull-down NPN
with a leakage resistor added so that the lv warn light
will illuminate should the LR3 loose power needed to
keep circuitry active. This is a sort of fail-safe
feature but it will cause enough leakage to keep an
LED dimly lit when it should be OFF. Hence the
resistor network on the LED to make it look more
like an incandescent bulb.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmfpublic(at)comcast.net |
(Aeroelectric-List)
| Subject: | RE: Narco ID-825 VOR/LOC/GS Indicator and Apollo SL-30 |
Kevin,
Check out the Blue Mountain EFIS/Lite, which will interface with the SL-30
using only 3 wires in a serial link. You get a *lot* more for your money with
this combo. to quote:
UPS Radio owners! The EFIS/Lite now supports FULL HSI FUNCTIONALITY when used
with UPS radios and selecting the serial type resolver during setup of the
radio. This combination allows the Lite to select the OBS, display a CDI based
upon the Nav radio and/or display a GS/LOC. The UPS radio can also be remotely
tuned by selecting frequencies from the EFIS/Lite database. It really a great
combination.
This also gives you the altimeter, airspeed, etc of the /Lite. I own the SL-30
and also the EFIS/One, but the EFIS/lite is more affordable and might be
perfect for your application. If I recall correctly, a new Narco ID-825 is
more than the EFIS/Lite. Reconditioned, the narco is cheaper, as the EFIT/lite
with the HSI function is $4500, and the Narco is ??? negotiable.
If you already own the Narco unit, this info is not useful to you, of course.
Jim Foerster
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1deltawhiskey(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Switch-breaker same style as toggle switch? |
In a message dated 7/21/2003 7:44:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
nkilford(at)etravel.org writes:
<nkilford@etravel.
> org>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I note in the Aeroelectric Connection, Bob recommends using a switch
breaker
> for ground power connector o/v protection. A good idea, but does anyone
> know
> whether the switch breakers are exactly the same size and look as the
> toggles
> that I've bought from B&C?
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Nev
>
Nev,
Probably not. And you probably do not want them to be. The major difference
is that switchbreakers have their amp rating stamped on the end of the
toggle, a flat surface rather than the rounded surface of the Carling switches
sold
by B&C. But otherwise, they go well together and look pretty identical on the
front side. The SW's are 0.75" wide.
Doug Windhorn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>Bob,
>
>I've searched the Molex site for the pins for my Molex
>09-01-2181 connector on the Narco AT50-A transponder
>and came up blank. Can you supply the #?
Check these data heets:
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/Molex/Molex_5559b.pdf
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/Molex/Molex_5558_Pins.pdf
First one is for housings, second lists a whole
bunch of pins that fit these housings depending
on finish and wire size.
B&C's BCT-1 tool will install these pins.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe shield grounding question |
>
>Hi Bob.
>
>On the component. I'm going by these instructions
>
>http://www.upsat.com/dwnlds/sldoc/sl30-ins-03.pdf
>
>Page 22, the notes at the bottom.
>
>I'm still not 100% certain I did it right. The chasis of the MD200 seems
>to be isolated from everything. There is no continuity between it and the
>mounting screws or even the d-sub in the back of it.
>
>Most of this is still black-magic from my point of view.....
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
Not at all. If you look at the resolver lead wires at the top
of the schematic, the designer specifically shows shields for
all wires grounded to case at both ends. The notes only reenforce
what is explicit in the drawing.
I see some noise about keeping "pigtails of shield grounds
to less than 1.25" . . . which is pretty much no big deal if you
need to make them longer to have the installation go together easier.
The designer may have a good reason for doing this and he may
not . . . but what he is asking you to do is quite clear.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe shield grounding question |
>
>I don't know if it depends on the application, but I can tell you that the
>UPS SL30 and MC200-306 I wired recently explicitly said to ground both
>ends of the shield for the resolver wires.
Here's a good example of what happens when we let the
topic creep . . . my initial answer was keyed to the subject
of strobes . . . it took me a couple more whacks at it to
see that you were REALLY talking about radios and further,
that you had specific information pertaining to installation
of shield grounds.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KX-125 problem |
>
>Bob,
>Well I finally got the radio back and they replaced the power amp this
>time. They reported that the powere amp was drawing excessive current
>and found a burned pc track.
Hmmmm . . .shorted output transistor? Transmitters are SUPPOSED to be
relatively immune from output transistor damage due to poor SWR on
antenna . . . in this case, I think I'd get an SWR bridge, power meter,
or antenna analyzer look at your comm antenna.
> The first time it was a diode. The radio
>shop said that I might have a short in the audio panel, when I told them
> dont have an audio panel, they said maybe a headset jack had a short.
Gesshhh! I'd sure like to know how malfeasance in external audio
wiring overloads output transistors in transmitters . . .
>I spoke with a man at King and he felt that it might have been a voltage
>spike and that I should install an avionics master!!
Would like to have a name and phone number for that individual . . .
> He also suggested a
>loose wire could cause a spike. He also said that this was specualtion
>on his part and he didn't really know that there was anything in the
>airframe that would cause this. At this point, I think all i can do is
>to check all my connections and fly around for a while monitoring the
>buss voltage.
>
>Any ideas???
It's a sure bet that the folks at King didn't have any. Do
we know for sure that you have a properly functioning
ov protection system?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wire current & Resistance for 26ga wire. |
>
>Hello need some help on wire sizing, all my wire size charts only go up to 24
>GA wire The vans instruments have 26 GA wire for the instrument lighting and
>the charts don't give me the maximum current (amps) and resistance (ohms/ft)
>IM looking for. What I want to do is connect one light to the next for six
>lights but the wire coming from the lights is only 26 gage and I don't
>know if at
>the end when I have one 26 GA wire powering 6 instrument lights is big
>enough.
> maybe this is not the way to wire them but how do I get 6 wires onto the
> one
>screw on the circuit breaker. Thanks for any input.
Bill,
Did you see the post I made on the daisy-chaining technique
for dealing with WESTACH style instrument lighting . . .
and did this address your uncertainties?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | KX155 Squelch Question |
I installed some electronics in my airplane, and it now appears that it is
causing some interference in my radio. In particular it seems to act just like
the squelch needs to be adjusted on the radio, although I cannot find any
squelch adjustment. I have King KX-155, it has a pull to test (volume knob), but
that does not adjust the squelch. When I transmit or the tower calls out, the
radio is clear and fine, but when there is no transmissions, there is a ton
of 'white noise' or static. The noise is exactly the same sound and loudness
as when I pull to test on the volume knob. It appears to work fine on some
frequencies, but not on all frequencies.
I have adjusted the squelch on the intercom, but it just appears to set the
level for the voice activation on the mic, not on the radio. To me it seems
like I need to adjust the squelch. Is that possible on a KX155, I have an older
radio that is out of warranty so I am not afraid to open it up if there is a
potentiometer or some way to adjust it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Mike Kraus
RV-4, flying and now painted!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas pekar <niagaratom(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi fellow flyers, i am readying my Eindecker 1 for test flight and have misplaced
the site addresses for the panasonic battery. there was also a site that did
a price comparison across several competing companies. i would greatly appreciate
if some kind soul could pass that along.We are enjoying the Zenith 200 and
am working on the don't spill the scalding cup of mcDonalds coffee on your
crotch technique of landing. Hope to see some of you at Dayton for the Great
War Flyin in September, tom pekar
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alexander Balic <alex157(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | missed post on smart fuse |
does anyone have any advice on the "smart Fuse" it is the one that has a
little indicator light to show if it has blown (but only if the load is
still attached) I posted about this about a week ago, but must have missed
the reply about it- they seem to be useful for trouble shooting, the only
slight drawback I can see is that there will still be a tiny amount of
current in the shorted circuit since the indicator light on the fuse needs
to ground ( through the original circuit) to work.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Freddie Freeloader <lists(at)stevet.net> |
Hello thomas,
Tuesday, July 22, 2003, 6:23:47 AM, you wrote:
tp> Hi fellow flyers, i am readying my Eindecker 1 for test flight and have misplaced
the site addresses for the panasonic battery. there was also a site that
did a price comparison across several
tp> competing companies. i would greatly appreciate if some kind soul could pass
that along.We are enjoying the Zenith 200 and am working on the don't spill
the scalding cup of mcDonalds coffee on
tp> your crotch technique of landing. Hope to see some of you at Dayton for the
Great War Flyin in September, tom pekar
I have these two links. I hope that gives you what you need.
http://216.55.140.222/temp/lc-rd1217p.pdf
http://www.mdsbattery.com/shop/productprofile.asp?ProductGroupID=1059
--
Best regards,
Freddie mailto:lists(at)stevet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alexander Balic <alex157(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | DC motor speed control |
I was watching the posts on the modulation speed control for the fan as an
alternative to a resistor, and I would like to explore the same solution to
adjust the speed on my fuel pumps, does anyone have a source for such a
controller? or a schematic to make one?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard(at)riley.net |
| Subject: | Surplus electronics source list |
I just found an interesting source list for surplus, and thought I'd pass
it on.
http://www.pacificsites.com/~brooke/MSD.shtml
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Steitle <msteitle(at)mail.utexas.edu> |
>
>Hi fellow flyers, i am readying my Eindecker 1 for test flight and have
>misplaced the site addresses for the panasonic battery. there was also a
>site that did a price comparison across several competing companies. i
>would greatly appreciate if some kind soul could pass that along.We are
>enjoying the Zenith 200 and am working on the don't spill the scalding cup
>of mcDonalds coffee on your crotch technique of landing. Hope to see some
>of you at Dayton for the Great War Flyin in September, tom pekar
Tom,
I recently found what I feel is a good source, with good price, on the 17AH
RG battery for $54.99. The url is www.pegasusautoracing.com or you can go
directly to page 44 of their online catalog at
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/044.pdf
I have now done enough business with this company to be willing to
recommend them to others. They have a policy of same-day-shipping,
whenever possible. Everything I have ordered has arrived promptly and was
of the highest quality. Haven't had the opportunity of returning anything,
so I can't vouch for their return policy.
Mark S.
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap |
Thanks for the clarification- same LR3, multiple ways to utilize its lamp
function.
Another question based on the LV_Led drawing, you show 220 ohm in series
with the single LED for over 60mA LED current- does some current shunt
through the parallel resistor holding LED current to an acceptable level
when the lamp transistor turns on or are you seriously overdriving it?
(sorry- just can't grok this series/parallel stuff!)
I am using your LVMM (without the parallel resistor) and a 240 ohm
resistor to overdrive the 3 series-connected LEDs in the block to about
30mA. Neville is using LED blocks with 5 LEDs in them, which should
require much smaller resistor values, particularly if using the parallel
resistor.
On his application, what resistor values would he use, assuming all 5
LEDs are series connected in place of the single one shown in the drawing?
Thanks again-
Mark
>
> I published a circuit for adapting a single LED to the output
> of the LR3 at:
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/LV_Led.jpg
> The LR3 lamp driver is an open collector, pull-down NPN
> with a leakage resistor added so that the lv warn light
> will illuminate should the LR3 loose power needed to
> keep circuitry active. This is a sort of fail-safe
> feature but it will cause enough leakage to keep an
> LED dimly lit when it should be OFF. Hence the
> resistor network on the LED to make it look more
> like an incandescent bulb.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Steer" <bsteer(at)gwi.net> |
I agree. I've ordered several components from Pegasus. They've shipped
promptly, orders were accurately filled, price was right, components were high
quality, etc.
Bill
> RG battery for $54.99. The url is www.pegasusautoracing.com or you can go
> directly to page 44 of their online catalog at
> http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/044.pdf
>
> I have now done enough business with this company to be willing to
> recommend them to others. They have a policy of same-day-shipping,
> whenever possible. Everything I have ordered has arrived promptly and was
> of the highest quality. Haven't had the opportunity of returning anything,
> so I can't vouch for their return policy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DC motor speed control |
Hi Alex-
Might want to look at this- $16 & 10 amps:
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=4057+MD
I built one to use as a dimmer and it very nicely controlled the speed
of the motor included in the kit (easy to assemble)
Curious as to speed control for the pumps?
Mark
Alexander Balic wrote:
>
> I was watching the posts on the modulation speed control for the fan as an
> alternative to a resistor, and I would like to explore the same solution to
> adjust the speed on my fuel pumps, does anyone have a source for such a
> controller? or a schematic to make one?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap |
>
>Thanks for the clarification- same LR3, multiple ways to utilize its lamp
>
>function.
>
>Another question based on the LV_Led drawing, you show 220 ohm in series
>with the single LED for over 60mA LED current- does some current shunt
>through the parallel resistor holding LED current to an acceptable level
>when the lamp transistor turns on or are you seriously overdriving it?
>(sorry- just can't grok this series/parallel stuff!)
Under low volts conditions, bus voltage is 12.5 volts.
LED voltage is about 2 volts. Therefore, current through
series resistor is 10.5/220 or 47 mA. 2/220 is 9 mA so
this leaves 38 or so to pass though the LED . . . a slight
overdrive.
>I am using your LVMM (without the parallel resistor) and a 240 ohm
>resistor to overdrive the 3 series-connected LEDs in the block to about
>30mA. Neville is using LED blocks with 5 LEDs in them, which should
>require much smaller resistor values, particularly if using the parallel
>resistor.
12.5 - (3 x 2) = 6.5 volts across resistor. 6.5/240 is indeed
about 27 mA.
>On his application, what resistor values would he use, assuming all 5
>LEDs are series connected in place of the single one shown in the drawing?
I'd go a string of 3 leds in series, paralleled with 2 leds in series
each series string having its own ballasting resistor. 5 LED drop
too much voltage to give you adequate indication intensity all the way
down to battery-depleted levels of 10.5 volts.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DC motor speed control |
Alexander Balic wrote:
>
>I was watching the posts on the modulation speed control for the fan as an
>alternative to a resistor, and I would like to explore the same solution to
>adjust the speed on my fuel pumps, does anyone have a source for such a
>controller? or a schematic to make one?
>
>
Alexander,
Check EBAY. I saw many low voltage DC motor controllers there.
Jerzy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fellowsw" <fellows.w(at)ewcapital.net> |
| Subject: | Electrics/electronics education question |
I don't know how practical it is where you are but I would recommend the Art
of Electronics book by Horowitz & Hill and the accompanying lab book by
Hayes and one of the book authors. You can buy the books through Amazon. The
lab book has a complete list of the required equipment and components for
the lab course. If you can find a scope, function generator, dmm and logic
probe there, the rest of the equipment and components are reasonable. The
first half of the course is analog and the second half is digital where you
build a computer on a breadboard. The course is designed for physicists
making electronic projects for experiments and is very practical. They do
not spend a lot of time on theory. You can get most of the components in one
order from Digikey and one from Newark Electronics.
I looked at the Naval Electronics course posted here in the past, fairly
complete but it is too old fashioned and has many unnecessary side trips for
me.
Walter Fellows
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
I am a new listmember and a new A&P. I was hired by a local airport, in the
hopes that I could "grow into" the job, and become an avionics technician as
well. After four weeks on the job, I was called to active duty and am
currently in Iraq. As a result of my MOS not being in very big demand, I
have a lot of spare time, and I'd like to make the maximum use of that time.
I am currently studying for my FCC General license using a pre-programmed
curriculum and have a good theoretical knowledge of electricity/electronics,
but what I lack is actual experience.
So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to gain
experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited access to equipment
I can actually touch a mess with?" I've rewired a couple fans with burned
out computer chips (computer chips, in a fan?????) and troubleshot/cleaned
up/resoldered connection in a captured Iraqi mine detector, but I'd like
something a little more systematic and all-encompassing. Would it be a good
idea to get one of those 101 or 1001 experiments in electricity/electronics?
Or maybe buy some plans/kits from radio shack? I'm handicapped by not being
able to visit the local mall every time I need a diode or somesuch. Can
anyone recommend a good kit or experiment set?
Anything that will reinforce the books I'm reading would be fine. Thank you
for being understanding. It seems like everyone is so incredibly
understanding. From my boss (who has given me a shot at being able to do
what I love, 20 miles from my current home) to the fine folks back in the
states that send letters of support and care packages.
Thank you,
Drew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | KX170B/175B Install Manual |
Good Evening All,
Does anyone know if there is any place on the web where I could read a copy
of the Allied Signal, (King) KX-170B/175B Installation Manual.
I have a partial copy, but the page I think I need is missing.
The manual is number 006-0085-01. The page I am reading 3-2. The other side,
which I think should be 3-3, is blank.
The paragraph I am reading is titled:
3.3 POST INSTALLATION CHECKOUT
It has information telling how to conduct the inflight check of the
equipment, but I think it may not be complete. I would like to look at page 3.3
to see
if it is continued there.
Any ideas?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil |
| Subject: | Re: Electrics/electronics education question |
Thank you. I will look into this.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: fellowsw <fellows.w(at)ewcapital.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 3:51 am
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
> I don't know how practical it is where you are but I would
> recommend the Art
> of Electronics book by Horowitz & Hill and the accompanying lab
> book by
> Hayes and one of the book authors. You can buy the books through
> Amazon. The
> lab book has a complete list of the required equipment and
> components for
> the lab course. If you can find a scope, function generator, dmm
> and logic
> probe there, the rest of the equipment and components are
> reasonable. The
> first half of the course is analog and the second half is digital
> where you
> build a computer on a breadboard. The course is designed for
> physicistsmaking electronic projects for experiments and is very
> practical. They do
> not spend a lot of time on theory. You can get most of the
> components in one
> order from Digikey and one from Newark Electronics.
>
> I looked at the Naval Electronics course posted here in the past,
> fairlycomplete but it is too old fashioned and has many
> unnecessary side trips for
> me.
>
> Walter Fellows
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> drew.schumann(at)us.army.mil
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electrics/electronics education question
>
>
> I am a new listmember and a new A&P. I was hired by a local
> airport, in the
> hopes that I could "grow into" the job, and become an avionics
> technician as
> well. After four weeks on the job, I was called to active duty
> and am
> currently in Iraq. As a result of my MOS not being in very big
> demand, I
> have a lot of spare time, and I'd like to make the maximum use of
> that time.
> I am currently studying for my FCC General license using a pre-
> programmedcurriculum and have a good theoretical knowledge of
> electricity/electronics,but what I lack is actual experience.
>
> So. My question to the list, is, "What would be a good way to gain
> experience with electronic stuff, having rather limited access to
> equipmentI can actually touch a mess with?" I've rewired a couple
> fans with burned
> out computer chips (computer chips, in a fan?????) and
> troubleshot/cleanedup/resoldered connection in a captured Iraqi
> mine detector, but I'd like
> something a little more systematic and all-encompassing. Would it
> be a good
> idea to get one of those 101 or 1001 experiments in
> electricity/electronics?Or maybe buy some plans/kits from radio
> shack? I'm handicapped by not being
> able to visit the local mall every time I need a diode or
> somesuch. Can
> anyone recommend a good kit or experiment set?
>
> Anything that will reinforce the books I'm reading would be fine.
> Thank you
> for being understanding. It seems like everyone is so incredibly
> understanding. From my boss (who has given me a shot at being
> able to do
> what I love, 20 miles from my current home) to the fine folks back
> in the
> states that send letters of support and care packages.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Drew
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KX155 Squelch Question |
| From: | Kent Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net> |
My spec sheet for the KX-155 (pretty new one) says "automatic squelch with
manual override". My KX-155 is quiet when the volume knob is pushed in.
Sounds like you've got a defective auto-squelch system.
--Kent
> From: N223RV(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 00:00:38 EDT
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: KX155 Squelch Question
>
>
>
> I installed some electronics in my airplane, and it now appears that it is
> causing some interference in my radio. In particular it seems to act just
> like
> the squelch needs to be adjusted on the radio, although I cannot find any
> squelch adjustment. I have King KX-155, it has a pull to test (volume knob),
> but
> that does not adjust the squelch. When I transmit or the tower calls out, the
> radio is clear and fine, but when there is no transmissions, there is a ton
> of 'white noise' or static. The noise is exactly the same sound and loudness
> as when I pull to test on the volume knob. It appears to work fine on some
> frequencies, but not on all frequencies.
>
> I have adjusted the squelch on the intercom, but it just appears to set the
> level for the voice activation on the mic, not on the radio. To me it seems
> like I need to adjust the squelch. Is that possible on a KX155, I have an
> older
> radio that is out of warranty so I am not afraid to open it up if there is a
> potentiometer or some way to adjust it.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> Mike Kraus
> RV-4, flying and now painted!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com" <bob(at)flyboybob.com> |
'Lectric Heads,
I was on DigiKey's web site looking for some connectors for a project I'm
working on and stumbled across a great deal on batteries. If you're looking
for an RG battery, check with DigiKey. Their price for the Panasonic
LC-RD1217P (12Volt 17AH) battery is $36.23 for quantity 1-3 and $31.05 for
quantity 4-179. MDS' price for the same battery is $58.00. Pegasus Auto
Racing offers a 12Volt 17AH battery by Storage Battery Systems Inc. for
$54.99. Looks like DigiKey is today's best price.
Regards,
Bob Lee
______________________________
N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
91% done only 51% to go!
Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
http://flyboybob.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | What does the OV light have to do with engine monitor |
Hello Everybody,
Monday was the first time I've powered up my panel, did put up part by part
by adding fuse after fuse. The good thing, no smoke! I had one or two
mistakes to correct and a non functioning oil pressure switch. What puzzeled
me was the readout of the engine monitor temps which showed powered from
e-bus only, normal 25 deg C, but powered from the main bus via diode came
down to 3 deg C for CHT.
I've started to shut down item after item and shutting off the OV light
brought the temps back to normal.
I have an LR-3B, just instead of the inasendent bulb I have a LED with the
two resistors according Bob's layout, which works perfect.
Any idea what could causing this behaviour? BTW engine is not running during
this test and OV light is on the main bus, engine monitor on the e-bus.
Thankful for any idea.
Many thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Steitle <msteitle(at)mail.utexas.edu> |
It appears we're comparing apples to oranges here. The Digi-Key site
describes their LC-RD1217P
as a sealed lead-acid battery. The battery at Pegasus is an RG battery. I
believe Bob N. has determined the RG battery to be superior to the
lead-acid type. It has something to do with lower internal resistance
providing more volts to the starter. Seems like that alone would be worth
the extra $19. Although I could be mistaken.
Mark S.
>mail.flyboybob.com"
>
>'Lectric Heads,
>
>I was on DigiKey's web site looking for some connectors for a project I'm
>working on and stumbled across a great deal on batteries. If you're looking
>for an RG battery, check with DigiKey. Their price for the Panasonic
>LC-RD1217P (12Volt 17AH) battery is $36.23 for quantity 1-3 and $31.05 for
>quantity 4-179. MDS' price for the same battery is $58.00. Pegasus Auto
>Racing offers a 12Volt 17AH battery by Storage Battery Systems Inc. for
>$54.99. Looks like DigiKey is today's best price.
>
>Regards,
>
>Bob Lee
>______________________________
>N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
>91% done only 51% to go!
>Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
>mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
>http://flyboybob.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>
>It appears we're comparing apples to oranges here. The Digi-Key site
>describes their LC-RD1217P
>as a sealed lead-acid battery. The battery at Pegasus is an RG battery. I
>believe Bob N. has determined the RG battery to be superior to the
>lead-acid type. It has something to do with lower internal resistance
>providing more volts to the starter. Seems like that alone would be worth
>the extra $19. Although I could be mistaken.
RG batteries ARE lead-acid batteries . . . just assembled
in a manner much superior to the classic flooded battery.
See:
http://216.55.140.222/articles/battery.pdf
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Steitle <msteitle(at)mail.utexas.edu> |
>
>
> >
> >
> >It appears we're comparing apples to oranges here. The Digi-Key site
> >describes their LC-RD1217P
> >as a sealed lead-acid battery. The battery at Pegasus is an RG battery. I
> >believe Bob N. has determined the RG battery to be superior to the
> >lead-acid type. It has something to do with lower internal resistance
> >providing more volts to the starter. Seems like that alone would be worth
> >the extra $19. Although I could be mistaken.
>
>
> RG batteries ARE lead-acid batteries . . . just assembled
> in a manner much superior to the classic flooded battery.
>
> See:
> http://216.55.140.222/articles/battery.pdf
>
> and
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
Everything I know about RG batteries I got from the excellent articles on
your web site. I found a short paragraph from the second article (from
Concord Batteries web site) that makes my point much better than I had done
in my initial post.
"Because of the compressed construction, the RG batteries have a much lower
internal resisitance and thus provide greater starting power and faster
recharging, particularly at cold temperatures, than comparable flooded
batteries. Additionally, the AGM provides a much higher degree of support
against shock and vibration than in the older flooded (vented) batteries.
The RG batteries provide electrical performance comparable to nickel-cadium
aircraft batteries without the requirement of a temperature or current
monitoring system.
So, while a bit more costly, the RG battery surely is my first choice.
Mark S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KX155 Squelch Question |
>
>
>I installed some electronics in my airplane, and it now appears that it is
>causing some interference in my radio. In particular it seems to act just
>like
>the squelch needs to be adjusted on the radio, although I cannot find any
>squelch adjustment. I have King KX-155, it has a pull to test (volume
>knob), but
>that does not adjust the squelch. When I transmit or the tower calls out,
>the
>radio is clear and fine, but when there is no transmissions, there is a ton
>of 'white noise' or static. The noise is exactly the same sound and loudness
>as when I pull to test on the volume knob. It appears to work fine on some
>frequencies, but not on all frequencies.
>
>I have adjusted the squelch on the intercom, but it just appears to set the
>level for the voice activation on the mic, not on the radio. To me it seems
>like I need to adjust the squelch. Is that possible on a KX155, I have an
>older
>radio that is out of warranty so I am not afraid to open it up if there is a
>potentiometer or some way to adjust it.
>
>Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>Mike Kraus
In days gone by, squelch controls were totally manual and
operated to open an audio gate in the radio when the receiver
detected presence of an incoming signal . . . usually a
monitoring of the automatic gain control signal.
I belive King was the first to internally automate internal
setting of squelch trigger levels . . . modern signal processing
techniques allow a more discriminating deduction of signal to
noise ratios . . . a much more accurate signal detection
means than simply watching for a shift in AGC voltage.
I presume while you observed behavior cited above
that you turned everything else in the airplane off.
If so, this would eliminate the possibility that some
weak signal source in the airplane is opening your
squelch.
Also, be aware that local sources outside
the airplane can cause this effect. Microprocessor
noise from appliances around the shop is one good
example of potential source. Does this happen over
full range of MHz steps that the receiver can tune?
Since you are flying, I presume the problem persists
everywhere. This would be a stronger clue that something
inside the radio is not working correctly.
I'm not familiar with the internal workings of this
radio so I can't tell you if there is an internal
adjustment.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm trying to make a 12 to 9 volt converter for an ANR headset... I found a
simple schematic on the web, but it requires a transistor that is a ECG/NTE
184. Is there a "RadioShack equivalent"? I checked Digikey's web site and
they didn't have one.
Thanks.
Keith Hughes
RV-6, Finishing
Denver
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS 400 hook up questions |
Hi Bob and all,
I'm in the process of designing the interconnect "Y shaped" harness between
an AK 350 encoder, a Becker 4401 XPDR (needs isolation diodes) and a Garmin
GPS 400 (already has internal diodes).
I took my inspiration mainly from Bob's GNS 430 diagrams, and from the
Garmin 400 series installation manual.
Question 1 :
The encoder GND pin(# 15) is connected to the Becker GND pin (#25),
according to their respective installation manuals.
Now what should I do with the "altitude common" pin (# 60) on the GPS ?
Leave it alone ?
Connect it to ground with it's own wire to the firewall ? (The GPS already
has it's ground wire to the firewall)
Connect it to the GND pin at the encoder or at the transponder?
Question 2 :
The GPS connector kit includes some black plastic connector. The
installation manual only mentions :
"the card-edge connector may be used to terminate shield grouds to the 400
series back plate"
What do they mean, and do I need to install this connector, as no shielded
wire is called for in my setup ?
Thanks for your help,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transistor Help |
As far as a replacement for the ECG/NTE 184, you can really use most any
NPN power transistor. There isn't any way for me to point you to a
selection on Digikey, but if you search for transistors and select
"transistors" in the list you will get a table of criteria to search.
Choose NPN, choose +40 to +80V, choose the amount of current you want
(probably 1 to 15A), choose TO-126, TO-220D and TO-220F. You will get a
page that you can choose from. The main thing you need to do is make
sure that the device has at least double the current capability you need
(more is better).
However, you can avoid a lot of work by just using an LM7809 voltage
regulator. Input of 11.5 to 26V gives 9V output. Uses a couple of
capacitors and the regulator. They have various current output levels
based on the particular package you use - 100 ma to 1.5A. Available on
Digikey - search for 78L09, 78M09 or 7809 to get the one you want.
Dick Tasker
rv6tc wrote:
>
>I'm trying to make a 12 to 9 volt converter for an ANR headset... I found a
>simple schematic on the web, but it requires a transistor that is a ECG/NTE
>184. Is there a "RadioShack equivalent"? I checked Digikey's web site and
>they didn't have one.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Keith Hughes
>RV-6, Finishing
>Denver
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mailbox bob at mail.flyboybob.com" <bob(at)flyboybob.com> |
Mark,
The apples and oranges are caused by the marketing descriptions, not the
physics as 'Lectric Bob always tells us to observe. If you take a look at
Panasonic's technical description of their VLRA product line you will
discover that they are what we have all been referring to as RG batteries.
It took some digging on the web but I found their documentation at:
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_VRLA_Ov
erview.pdf
If you look at the top of page 1 they describe the battery construction
including the AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) technology. In addition, on page 3
they show the chemical formula for the electrolysis process and it is the
exact chemical formula that 'Lectric Bob referenced in his second link
below. I think the $36 DigiKey price for the LC-RD1217P 12V 17AH battery is
a good option for those of us using Z14 with dual batteries.
Regards,
Bob Lee
______________________________
N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
91% done only 51% to go!
Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
http://flyboybob.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark
Steitle
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: batteries
>
>
> >
> >
> >It appears we're comparing apples to oranges here. The Digi-Key site
> >describes their LC-RD1217P
> >as a sealed lead-acid battery. The battery at Pegasus is an RG battery.
I
> >believe Bob N. has determined the RG battery to be superior to the
> >lead-acid type. It has something to do with lower internal resistance
> >providing more volts to the starter. Seems like that alone would be
worth
> >the extra $19. Although I could be mistaken.
>
>
> RG batteries ARE lead-acid batteries . . . just assembled
> in a manner much superior to the classic flooded battery.
>
> See:
> http://216.55.140.222/articles/battery.pdf
>
> and
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
Everything I know about RG batteries I got from the excellent articles on
your web site. I found a short paragraph from the second article (from
Concord Batteries web site) that makes my point much better than I had done
in my initial post.
"Because of the compressed construction, the RG batteries have a much lower
internal resisitance and thus provide greater starting power and faster
recharging, particularly at cold temperatures, than comparable flooded
batteries. Additionally, the AGM provides a much higher degree of support
against shock and vibration than in the older flooded (vented) batteries.
The RG batteries provide electrical performance comparable to nickel-cadium
aircraft batteries without the requirement of a temperature or current
monitoring system.
So, while a bit more costly, the RG battery surely is my first choice.
Mark S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Steitle <msteitle(at)mail.utexas.edu> |
>mail.flyboybob.com"
>
>Mark,
>
>The apples and oranges are caused by the marketing descriptions, not the
>physics as 'Lectric Bob always tells us to observe. If you take a look at
>Panasonic's technical description of their VLRA product line you will
>discover that they are what we have all been referring to as RG batteries.
>It took some digging on the web but I found their documentation at:
>
>http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_VRLA_Ov
>erview.pdf
>
>If you look at the top of page 1 they describe the battery construction
>including the AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) technology. In addition, on page 3
>they show the chemical formula for the electrolysis process and it is the
>exact chemical formula that 'Lectric Bob referenced in his second link
>below. I think the $36 DigiKey price for the LC-RD1217P 12V 17AH battery is
>a good option for those of us using Z14 with dual batteries.
>
>Regards,
>
>Bob Lee
>______________________________
>N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
>91% done only 51% to go!
>Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
>mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
>http://flyboybob.com
Bob Lee,
Thanks for the excellent Panasonic reference. I too have done some battery
research since this thread started. The Concord site that Bob referenced
pointed out that these are the same, even though they are called by
different names by the marketing department. Sounds like Digi-Key's price
beats Pegasus by a wide margin. I am planning on ordering one for my
GL1500 Goldwing motorcycle and see how it holds up through the blistering
Texas summers and cold winters. If it survives under those brutal
conditions, then a/c use should be a breeze. Thanks for the tip.
Mark S.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark
>Steitle
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: batteries
>
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >It appears we're comparing apples to oranges here. The Digi-Key site
> > >describes their LC-RD1217P
> > >as a sealed lead-acid battery. The battery at Pegasus is an RG battery.
>I
> > >believe Bob N. has determined the RG battery to be superior to the
> > >lead-acid type. It has something to do with lower internal resistance
> > >providing more volts to the starter. Seems like that alone would be
>worth
> > >the extra $19. Although I could be mistaken.
> >
> >
> > RG batteries ARE lead-acid batteries . . . just assembled
> > in a manner much superior to the classic flooded battery.
> >
> > See:
> > http://216.55.140.222/articles/battery.pdf
> >
> > and
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>Bob,
>Everything I know about RG batteries I got from the excellent articles on
>your web site. I found a short paragraph from the second article (from
>Concord Batteries web site) that makes my point much better than I had done
>in my initial post.
>
>"Because of the compressed construction, the RG batteries have a much lower
>internal resisitance and thus provide greater starting power and faster
>recharging, particularly at cold temperatures, than comparable flooded
>batteries. Additionally, the AGM provides a much higher degree of support
>against shock and vibration than in the older flooded (vented) batteries.
>The RG batteries provide electrical performance comparable to nickel-cadium
>aircraft batteries without the requirement of a temperature or current
>monitoring system.
>
>So, while a bit more costly, the RG battery surely is my first choice.
>
>Mark S.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | SMART FUSES - toohumit |
Toohumit Macon sern
Hi
Someone asked about Smart Fuses. I have a pack of
Smart glow Fuses - "the integrated emitting device on the top of the fuse
glows brightly if fuse is blown, u.s. patent 5,598,138 Contains:
7 each - 5,10,15,20, 25 30 amp fuses
Item #14-0000 Asst pack"
Catalina performance Accessories Inc
Mountainburg AR 72946" $29.95 + S&H (fuses are about 3/4"
wide)
- ordered from JC Whitney as Catalog item # 49UB1501R on 08JUN03
Cheers, Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transistor Help |
In a message dated 7/23/2003 12:47:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6tc(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I'm trying to make a 12 to 9 volt converter for an ANR headset... I found
> a
> simple schematic on the web, but it requires a transistor that is a ECG/NTE
> 184. Is there a "RadioShack equivalent"? I checked Digikey's web site and
> they didn't have one.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6, Finishing
> Denver
>
Hello Keith,
I used to stock a lot of ECG semiconductors in my shop. I just looked and I
don't have an ECG 184 but I do have some ECG 182's. A 182 is rated for over
twice the power handling capability of a 184 and is in a similar case. It
should work just fine for your series regulator circuit. I'll send you one if
you
would like. That should be a fairly simple project to complete and make
work.
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Dual Battery / Single Alternator |
Bob ... do you have a drawing for a dual battery system and a single
alternator with an essential buss that won't tie the batteries together
for starting ala FADEC. I've looked over your site and can't find one.
I've decided not to go with the dual alternator/regulator scenario.
Thanks...
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RSwanson" <rswan19(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transistor Help |
Someone said they were using this for their headset. I have one but
haven't tried it yet.
The part number is in the last line: 20E005. Cheap, too.
http://www.alltronics.com/power_sources.htm
POWER MODULE
Input l2VDC nom. Output 9VDC @ 225mA
max., isolated. PUT Powertech
Ll2SER2509-GP.
20E005 $2.49 each
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv6tc" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Transistor Help
>
> I'm trying to make a 12 to 9 volt converter for an ANR headset... I
found a
> simple schematic on the web, but it requires a transistor that is a
ECG/NTE
> 184. Is there a "RadioShack equivalent"? I checked Digikey's web site
and
> they didn't have one.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6, Finishing
> Denver
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin GPS 155XL |
Does anyone have copy of the pin-out sheet for the above. Would really
appreciate a copy.
Thanks,
Bob Devaney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
| Subject: | Dual Battery / Single Alternator |
I believe that this is important for the Fadec system on Continental,
because I seem to remember a Continental rep saying Not to tie the batteries
together for starting a FADEC system it does something weird.
Anybody hear similar ??
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Schaefer
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dual Battery / Single Alternator
-->
Bob ... do you have a drawing for a dual battery system and a single
alternator with an essential buss that won't tie the batteries together for
starting ala FADEC. I've looked over your site and can't find one. I've
decided not to go with the dual alternator/regulator scenario.
Thanks...
David
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com |
From: "Rogers, C. Howard" <hrogers(at)SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
Subject: Firewall penetration/engine compartment temp issues
<26E3EC48949D134C94A1574B2C8946610117B16B(at)exchange2.slac.stanford.edu>
Bob said:
"Without knowing the details of design and fabrication
on the LSE product, it's not possible to shed any
light on the question. It would be interesting to
get temperature data in the vicinity of the box
and on the surface of the box during your flyoff
phase."
I'd just like to add this: Try to get those temp readings after engine shutdown,
too. Sometimes things that run nice and cool in flight can get very heat-soaked
right after shutdown if they are not properly ventilated.
-Howard Rogers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Testing OVM in AC |
Hi Bob,
I've got a question on your test setup page describing annual testing of the OVM
in the airplane. In item 6 it says to begin with the master sw off and "open
the alternator field breaker". This sounds like pulling the breaker button out
to open the circuit. Later you close the master sw which pops the CB. Either
opening the field breaker means pushing the button in or there is a step where
you push it in before closing the master sw. Which one?
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV3 electrical
Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 155XL |
>
>Does anyone have copy of the pin-out sheet for the above. Would really
>appreciate a copy.
found one for gps155/165 but it doesn't mention
the "xl" part. I've posted it at:
http://216.55.140.222/Installation_Data/GPS155-165.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Dual Battery / Single Alternator |
>
>I believe that this is important for the Fadec system on Continental,
>because I seem to remember a Continental rep saying Not to tie the batteries
>together for starting a FADEC system it does something weird.
>
>Anybody hear similar ??
The Aerosance FADEC goes brain-dead at cranking
voltages on some battery combinations. They
recommend an auxiliary power supply in the form
of second battery that is not used for cranking.
You can add a second battery to any system as shown
in Figure Z-30. Use second battery as aux power for
FADEC and don't close the aux battery master until
after the engine starts and alternator is on line.
See my post of 7/9/3 on this topic.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Testing OVM in AC |
>
>Hi Bob,
>I've got a question on your test setup page describing annual testing of
>the OVM in the airplane. In item 6 it says to begin with the master sw off
>and "open the alternator field breaker". This sounds like pulling the
>breaker button out to open the circuit.
You have to do this so that you can ADD the 6v lantern battery
in series with bus voltage when the master switch comes on.
> Later you close the master sw which pops the CB.
> Either opening the field breaker means pushing the button in or there
> is a step where you push it in before closing the master sw. Which one?
Neither. We're not expecting to open the CB but rather
a fuse which I show in series with the test battery.
Clipping the battery across the open breaker
gives you a handy place to connect the battery. You still need
a fast, fault clearing device (in this case the fuse) to
limit the time that current flows after you hit the OVM
with 18+ volts.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | The many faces of RG batteries . . . |
The sealed lead acid battery has been with us for about 30
years. It has been marketed under at least this many
names and probably a few more:
Recombinant Gas
Starved Electrolyte
Vent Regulated Sealed Lead Acid
Absorbed Glass Mat
Sealed Lead Acid
The last term has probably become the most popular.
I should probably replace "RG" with "SLA" in the
various writings referring to this technology.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transistor Help |
>
>In a message dated 7/23/2003 12:47:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>rv6tc(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> > I'm trying to make a 12 to 9 volt converter for an ANR headset... I found
> > a
> > simple schematic on the web, but it requires a transistor that is a ECG/NTE
> > 184. Is there a "RadioShack equivalent"? I checked Digikey's web site and
> > they didn't have one.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Keith Hughes
> > RV-6, Finishing
> > Denver
> >
>
>Hello Keith,
>
>I used to stock a lot of ECG semiconductors in my shop. I just looked and I
>don't have an ECG 184 but I do have some ECG 182's. A 182 is rated for over
>twice the power handling capability of a 184 and is in a similar case. It
>should work just fine for your series regulator circuit. I'll send you
>one if you
>would like. That should be a fairly simple project to complete and make
>work.
Sounds like you're wanting to duplicate a 12 to 9v converter
schematic I found out there on the 'net looking something like
this:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/car912.gif
ANY npn transistor in a TO-220 package will substitute for
the ECG184 in this schematic. Radio Shack Cat # 276-2020
is but one suitable part.
However, if you'd like to take advantage of the superior bus
noise rejection offered by some 3-terminal regulators, consider
the LM317 from National wired like the schematic in the upper
left corner of page 12 of this document:
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/National/LM117.pdf
This uses smaller capacitors and depends on the integrated
circuit for active filtering. Instead of the 5K pot
at R2, substitute a fixed resistor of 1500 ohms and you'll
have a fixed, 9v output.
The LM317 and all the parts for this circuit are available
from Radio Shack for about $5.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
Anyone in the Houston - Beaumont area of Texas that want to buy 3 to 5 or 6
to ? and get the lower price from Digi-Key?
I live near Beaumont and get to Houston at least once a month and could
distribute to those in Houston, or someone there (more builders) could order
and I could come pick up my 1 or 2.
David Carter
Nederland, Texas
409-722-7259
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Steitle" <msteitle(at)mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: batteries
>
> >mail.flyboybob.com"
> >
> >Mark,
> >
> >The apples and oranges are caused by the marketing descriptions, not the
> >physics as 'Lectric Bob always tells us to observe. If you take a look
at
> >Panasonic's technical description of their VLRA product line you will
> >discover that they are what we have all been referring to as RG
batteries.
> >It took some digging on the web but I found their documentation at:
> >
>
>http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_VRLA_O
v
> >erview.pdf
> >
> >If you look at the top of page 1 they describe the battery construction
> >including the AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) technology. In addition, on page
3
> >they show the chemical formula for the electrolysis process and it is the
> >exact chemical formula that 'Lectric Bob referenced in his second link
> >below. I think the $36 DigiKey price for the LC-RD1217P 12V 17AH battery
is
> >a good option for those of us using Z14 with dual batteries.
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Bob Lee
> >______________________________
> >N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA 30024
> >91% done only 51% to go!
> >Phone/Fax: 770/844-7501
> >mailto:bob(at)flyboybob.com
> >http://flyboybob.com
>
> Bob Lee,
> Thanks for the excellent Panasonic reference. I too have done some
battery
> research since this thread started. The Concord site that Bob referenced
> pointed out that these are the same, even though they are called by
> different names by the marketing department. Sounds like Digi-Key's price
> beats Pegasus by a wide margin. I am planning on ordering one for my
> GL1500 Goldwing motorcycle and see how it holds up through the blistering
> Texas summers and cold winters. If it survives under those brutal
> conditions, then a/c use should be a breeze. Thanks for the tip.
>
> Mark S.
>
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark
> >Steitle
> >To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: batteries
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >It appears we're comparing apples to oranges here. The Digi-Key site
> > > >describes their LC-RD1217P
> > > >as a sealed lead-acid battery. The battery at Pegasus is an RG
battery.
> >I
> > > >believe Bob N. has determined the RG battery to be superior to the
> > > >lead-acid type. It has something to do with lower internal
resistance
> > > >providing more volts to the starter. Seems like that alone would be
> >worth
> > > >the extra $19. Although I could be mistaken.
> > >
> > >
> > > RG batteries ARE lead-acid batteries . . . just assembled
> > > in a manner much superior to the classic flooded battery.
> > >
> > > See:
> > > http://216.55.140.222/articles/battery.pdf
> > >
> > > and
> > >
> > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
> > >
> > > Bob . . .
> >
> >Bob,
> >Everything I know about RG batteries I got from the excellent articles on
> >your web site. I found a short paragraph from the second article (from
> >Concord Batteries web site) that makes my point much better than I had
done
> >in my initial post.
> >
> >"Because of the compressed construction, the RG batteries have a much
lower
> >internal resisitance and thus provide greater starting power and faster
> >recharging, particularly at cold temperatures, than comparable flooded
> >batteries. Additionally, the AGM provides a much higher degree of support
> >against shock and vibration than in the older flooded (vented) batteries.
> >The RG batteries provide electrical performance comparable to
nickel-cadium
> >aircraft batteries without the requirement of a temperature or current
> >monitoring system.
> >
> >So, while a bit more costly, the RG battery surely is my first choice.
> >
> >Mark S.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CardinalNSB(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: garmin 155xl pin out |
I believe they are on Garmin's web site. If not, email me and I will get you
a copy of mine. Skip Simpson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Bernard" <billbernard(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Voltage converter necessary? |
I've got a Sporty's JD200 handheld radio that I'd like to be able to power from
the aircraft system. The radio uses 8 alkaline batteries for 12 volts and has
an input on the side for 12 volts.
Sporty's sells an adapter for about $75 which seems like a lot of $$$$.
Is some sort of converter needed to regulate aircraft voltage to 12 volts, similar
to the recent discussion of reducing to 9V for the ANR headset, or could I
just make a small cord and plug to connect the aircraft system to the radio?
Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage converter necessary? |
>
>
>I've got a Sporty's JD200 handheld radio that I'd like to be able to power
>from the aircraft system. The radio uses 8 alkaline batteries for 12 volts
>and has an input on the side for 12 volts.
>
>Sporty's sells an adapter for about $75 which seems like a lot of $$$$.
>
>Is some sort of converter needed to regulate aircraft voltage to 12 volts,
>similar to the recent discussion of reducing to 9V for the ANR headset, or
>could I just make a small cord and plug to connect the aircraft system to
>the radio?
>
>Any thoughts are welcome.
>
>Thanks in advance.
Adapters may be designed not only to change voltage
level but to filter off incoming noises from the bus
as well.
Give it a try. You may find that because the radio was
initially designed to work with the quietest power sources
known to man (batteries) that it is extra-ordinarily sensitive
to common noises on the bus . . . which means that you add
a filter.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Becker Hi and Lo |
Bob and all,
This matter has been addressed before, however I'm still not sure what to
do.
I'm connecting a Becker AR4201 comm with a Sigtronics SCI-S4 intercom.
The Sigtronics manual is clear : connect the radio mic key, and the
headphone audio and mic audio (the Hi wires...) to the corresponding wires
of the intercom. No shields necessary.
But they make no mention of the Lo wires. Whereas Becker calls for
connecting shields between the respective barrels and "mike ground" and
"audio Lo" pins on the Becker connector.
The jacks are wired according to the Sigtronics instructions (barrels to
ground).
What do I do with those "mike ground" and "audio Lo" pins on the Becker
connector ?
- Ignore them ?
- Connect them both to the radio ground pin ?
- Connect them with dedicated wires to the firewall ground bus ?
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS 400 hook up questions |
Bob and all,
After a little searching and a phone call to CAE Avionics in Luxemburg, I
may be able to answer my questions :
>
> I'm in the process of designing the interconnect "Y shaped" harness
between
> an AK 350 encoder, a Becker 4401 XPDR (needs isolation diodes) and a
Garmin
> GPS 400 (already has internal diodes).
..............
> Question 1 :
> The encoder GND pin(# 15) is connected to the Becker GND pin (#25),
> according to their respective installation manuals.
> Now what should I do with the "altitude common" pin (# 60) on the GPS ?
> Leave it alone ?
> Connect it to ground with it's own wire to the firewall ? (The GPS already
> has it's ground wire to the firewall)
> Connect it to the GND pin at the encoder or at the transponder?
>
They told me to connect it "direct to ground"
> Question 2 :
> The GPS connector kit includes some black plastic connector. The
> installation manual only mentions :
> "the card-edge connector may be used to terminate shield grouds to the 400
> series back plate"
My intention is to install it and not use it since I have no shields to
connect.
Any opinions ?
Thanks
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | About Learning Electronics |
Ten Things to Know about Learning Electronics:
1) Any book about electronics that begins with vacuum tubes; just tip it
into the trash or bandsaw out the insides and glue the pages together for a neat
Book-Stash. Subscribe to an electronics magazine. Buy Forrest Mims' "Engineer's
Notebook at your local Radio Shack (The only book you will need for a long
time). ---he's online too.
2) Everything you ever wanted to know is available online. Use the Google
miracle. Broadband please!
3) Albert Einstein taught: If you are not interested in something you really
can't learn it. Education usually consists of fooling oneself into being interested.
This is itself a learned art and usually involves solving some puzzle
that you yourself have created.
4) Get to know the names of things. If you are reading something and come
across "phase converter", find out what a "phase converter" is. You may never
need one, but that's important to know too.
5) You don't have to know everything. Electronics is a huge field and to
know microprocessors does not mean you know much about radios. Even knowing about
low frequency radios does not mean you know much about high frequencies. It's
a huge field.
6) Pick up several multimeters. One of them should measure capacitance. Buy an old Tektronics 465 oscilloscope on eBay for $100. This is the Cessna 172 of 'scopes and you can pass it on to your son, or sell it on eBay to get your money back. http://www.surplussales.com/Manuals/man_tek.html has manuals. Buy a cheap function generator or make one using an Exar XR2206 function-generator IC (a great first project too!).
7) You can't do without a prototype breadboard. It makes prototyping and
learning much easier. And a stock of parts in your junk box is required.
8) Get to know Digikey, All-Electronics, and other neat sources of parts.
Get their catalogs and page through them often for a good education.
9) Integrated Circuits do almost everything. Get to know them personally.
When a circuit has a bunch of transistors and twenty or more parts-know that
there is an integrated circuit that does that job better and cheaper.
10) It puzzles beginners why there are SO MANY DARNED part numbers. The reason
is that there are so many different characteristics. Take heart! Examples of
the characteristics are, package details, voltage withstand, operating temps,
volts, amps, wattage, etc. etc. etc. etc. Develop a palette of favorite parts
and become familiar with them. Then you can use different stuff when you need
to satisfy special parameters.
And for free----My physics professor in electro-magnetic theory said to me, "Take
some advice.stay away from antenna design. It's all Black Art and Voo Doo."
Buy my Wig-wag D!
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones(at)charter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers(at)FDIC.gov> |
Subject: Annunciator for Water Level Sensor
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 12:14:36 -0400
The engine that I will be installing in my kit-built Mustang II aircraft is
water-cooled. I have a water-level sensor that I obtained from a Mazda RX-7
radiator, which I want to use to tell me when the water level in the
radiator is too low. I do not have the circuitry imbedded in the car's
computer that interprets the signal from the sensor and turns on a light in
the car.
The sensor screws into an appropriate spot in the radiator (or a fitting in
a water hose/line) and has a current that runs from a wire attached to the
sensor to the isolated probe that screws into the radiator and then flows
through the water in the radiator to a ground attached to the metal in the
radiator that touches the water. As long is there is water at the level of
the sensor, the current flows, but if the water drops below the sensor, the
current stops.
My question is this: What sort of circuit do I need to allow an annunciator
light on the instrument panel to turn on when the water in the radiator gets
too low? The current flow through the water is subject to some resistance
(5 to 10 thousand ohms as measured by my Multimeter). I need something that
will cause a separate circuit with a light bulb in it to turn on when the
flow of current through the sensor stops, i.e. no water is touching the
sensor. Any ideas?
Annunciator for Water Level Sensor
The engine that I will be installing in my kit-built Mustang II aircraft is water-cooled.
I have a water-level sensor that I obtained from a Mazda RX-7 radiator,
which I want to use to tell me when the water level in the radiator is too
low. I do not have the circuitry imbedded in the car's computer that interprets
the signal from the sensor and turns on a light in the car.
The sensor screws into an appropriate spot in the radiator (or a fitting in a water
hose/line) and has a current that runs from a wire attached to the sensor
to the isolated probe that screws into the radiator and then flows through the
water in the radiator to a ground attached to the metal in the radiator that
touches the water. As long is there is water at the level of the sensor, the
current flows, but if the water drops below the sensor, the current stops.
My question is this: What sort of circuit do I need to allow an annunciator light
on the instrument panel to turn on when the water in the radiator gets too
low? The current flow through the water is subject to some resistance (5 to 10
thousand ohms as measured by my Multimeter). I need something that will cause
a separate circuit with a light bulb in it to turn on when the flow of current
through the sensor stops, i.e. no water is touching the sensor. Any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
| Subject: | Turing up the FREQ..Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
Any body wanna take a stab at values for changing this circuit (on page one
of the link) to a higher freq like the suggested 15 KHz and what it might
do to the existing circuit if anything at all to control the dc motor issue.
http://www.mpja.com/download/6067kt.pdf
Thanks
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine vibration monitor? |
I am thinking of creating (for me) a engine vibration monitor to go along
with my engine monitor display. I can use an accelerometer and a display to
measure the vibration. They do this on expensive, critical pumps and motors
now. The idea is to have a display that reads from 1-100(?), and at cruise
you would be reading a steady 60 (?). Any change of more than (5) points
(?) and you might have a problem. The idea is to associate common operating
senarios with a number on the display. Lets say you set 23 square reguarly
in cruise and always read 52. One day you are reading 63, just might want
to land and check it out. I know there are issues such as the sensor needs
24 volts, and I might need to filter out some "stuff" electricall but it is
fairly easy to do for 2-3 hundred bucks.
Anyone have any thoughts, info, experience on this?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | brent bourgeois <bjb3013(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ignition wire pulse generator |
I am currently working on a twin project that would be
a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
would help.
A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
that can be homemade?
Thanks for the help
BJB
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Turing up the FREQ..Either fixed or variable |
Rehostat
Replace C2 and C6 with 2700pf capacitors. This will increase the
operating frequency to approximately 15kHz.
The NE556 timers can do this without a problem. You will have more self
heating of the IRFZ44 at the higher frequency due to the finite rise and
fall times of the NE556 output. If you are using the board close to the
specified current limits this could be a problem - you will have to
experiment. If you are no where near the limits, it shouldn't be a problem.
Email if you have questions.
Dick Tasker, RV9A, 90573
Fuselage is on the way!
Jeffrey W. Skiba wrote:
>
>Any body wanna take a stab at values for changing this circuit (on page one
>of the link) to a higher freq like the suggested 15 KHz and what it might
>do to the existing circuit if anything at all to control the dc motor issue.
>http://www.mpja.com/download/6067kt.pdf
>Thanks
>Jeff
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
"Aeroelectric-List(at)Matronics.Com"
Hi Jerzy and list members,
Thanks for the lead on a voltage display. I called the store for some tech
help but they were unable to assure me of the accuracy of the unit. They
said they had no tech people only sales. I just want to make sure it will
read with accuracy of at least .05 volt plus or minus. The voltage I need
to monitor is from 0 to 0.9 volts. Do you happen to know if it will read
this range acurrately?
http://www.allelectronics.com/spec/PM-102B.pdf
They also ahave another display that would fit physically in my panel. Would
it work?
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=385&item=PM-200&type=store
Clueless:(
Thanks again,
Ned
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerzy Krasinski" <krasinski(at)direcway.com>
Subject: meter
> Check catalog # PM-102B, ~$15, in www.allelectronics.com, or 818 904
0524.
> It has LED display and it can have its input ground connected to the
> power ground. Beware, many of such meters do not allow to do this.
> Jerzy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Shaffer <shafferaviation(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
tinytach makes several you can get more infro at www.tinytach.com
Bill shafferaviation(at)yahoo.com
brent bourgeois wrote:
I am currently working on a twin project that would be
a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
would help.
A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
that can be homemade?
Thanks for the help
BJB
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
>
>Hi Jerzy and list members,
>
>Thanks for the lead on a voltage display. I called the store for some tech
>help but they were unable to assure me of the accuracy of the unit. They
>said they had no tech people only sales. I just want to make sure it will
>read with accuracy of at least .05 volt plus or minus. The voltage I need
>to monitor is from 0 to 0.9 volts. Do you happen to know if it will read
>this range acurrately?
>
>http://www.allelectronics.com/spec/PM-102B.pdf
>
>They also ahave another display that would fit physically in my panel. Would
>it work?
Typical specifications on a 3-1/2 digit panel meter is
199.9 millivolts full scale. Accuracy of this device exceeds
1% or +/- 2 millivolts. Your application asks for 10:1 attenuator
for a full-scale range of 0 to 2000 millivolts. One can easily
easily trim the attenuator to get accuracy equal to or better than
your requirement of +/- 50 millivolts.
Be advised however that MOST of the low cost devices need a 9v
power supply that CANNOT share a connection with system ground.
This means that your indicator would need to have a separate
power switch to control connection to a battery.
An alkaline 9v battery will give a service life of years
in the airplane but to take advantage of these very low
cost instruments requires special consideration for
power supply requirements.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary V" <corinth(at)iprimus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
The tach you are looking for is called Tiny Tach. Aircraft Spruce carries
them.
Gary Van Leeuwen
RV6A, wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "brent bourgeois" <bjb3013(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ignition wire pulse generator
>
> I am currently working on a twin project that would be
> a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
> engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
> source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
> if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
> would help.
>
> A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
> Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
> plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
> a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
> this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
> pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
> that can be homemade?
>
> Thanks for the help
> BJB
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Mills <courierboy(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
Brent -
See:
http://www.tinytach.com/
Click on "Tiny-Tach". This is the inductive type that wraps around a plug wire.
I have heard folks get good results with this system (I've not used one).
Also heard that shielded spark plug wire may reduce accuracy.
Good topic for discussion.
Bill
>
>I am currently working on a twin project that would be
>a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
>engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
>source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
>if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
>would help.
>
> A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
>Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
>plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
>a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
>this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
>pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
>that can be homemade?
>
>Thanks for the help
>BJB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
I tried to help a friend of mine update the software in his new Dynon.
The reason he was doing the software update was that his "attitude gyro"
rolled over after about 15 minutes of flight.
He called Dynon and they said yep, they found a problem and he needed to
update his software to the latest which I downloaded and installed on my
laptop.
When we connected the laptop to the Dynon, the Dynon flashes up a black
screen and has the message "Loading" and that is all it will do. We
disconnected the laptop, repowered the Dynon and it continued to say
"loading".
He called Dynon and they said, we had this happen once before, did you use
the machined D sub connector pins, which he replied no, he used a solder cup
connector from the Shack. The factory guy says this is his problem and the
connector pins need to be replaced!
Hmmmmm, I have never heard of this in my 30 years of working with computers
and instrumentation. The connector only has power and ground - no remote
sensors are used.
Am I wrong that these pins should work?????
If their pins are so "picky", then Dynon should supply the mating connector.
THANKS!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
Just called them, only $36.00
>
>
>Brent -
>
>See:
>http://www.tinytach.com/
>Click on "Tiny-Tach". This is the inductive type that wraps around a plug
wire.
>I have heard folks get good results with this system (I've not used one).
>Also heard that shielded spark plug wire may reduce accuracy.
>Good topic for discussion.
>
>Bill
>
>
>>
>>I am currently working on a twin project that would be
>>a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
>>engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
>>source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
>>if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
>>would help.
>>
>> A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
>>Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
>>plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
>>a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
>>this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
>>pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
>>that can be homemade?
>>
>>Thanks for the help
>>BJB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your note. I know exactly the process you mean, but I'm surprised
they could get it so small and still do a good job. They must have had a
really sharp cutter, for it to turn out well.
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
<joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
> I had vinyl lettering made by the local sign-maker. He had to try a couple
> of times to get the vinyl cut just right so the small letters separated
> well. I think we used 12-point. I had to separate the letters from the
> background and pick out the centers... I couldn't pay that guy enough to do
> it. But it wasn't very difficult, and it looks real good.
>
> Jim Oberst
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org>
> To:
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic with
> all
> > the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat job of
> this,
> > and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen
> printing,
> > but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
> >
> > Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Nev
> >
> > --
> > Jodel D150 in progress
> > UK
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neville Kilford" <nkilford(at)etravel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing cables around back of panel |
Bob,
Thanks for the advice, but what's the JB Weld? A regular epoxy? I can't
seem to turn up anything on it. If I can't find a decent enough glue, I'll
use some soft csk alum. rivets to add a few strategically-positioned supports
before stove-enamelling. Should turn out alright, finish-wise.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing cables around back of panel
>
> >
> >
> >Hi guys,
> >
> >Does anyone have any suggestions for routing bundles of cables and tubes
> >around the back of the instrument panel? I'm using cable ties and
screw-down
> >bases for routing around the inside of the firewall, where the fuseholders
> >are, but I'm trying to avoid screws going through the panel.
> >
> >I can weld some lugs on the blind side of the panel to support cables, but
> >I'd be interested to know if there's a handy way of doing it.
> >
> >While I'm on the subject, what about the routing of cables from behind
> >instruments, radios, etc. It's only a foot or so, but what's a good way
to
> >secure cables from the back of a radio, say, down to the panel? It seems
as
> >though I should add some structure to support all the back-of-panel wiring
> >and tubing.
>
> There are a number of products offered as self-sticking
> mounting points for tie wraps. Depending on who's adhesive
> is supplied and how old it is, the self sticking
> feature can have a problematical service life.
>
> However, if you purchase the screw-mount versions -OR-
> strip the adhesive pad off the back, you can mount these
> to a clean aluminum surface with a good epoxy like
> JB Weld. If you need a standoff mounting that does not
> penetrate the panel, consider mounting a threaded spacer
> on a 1" square piece of aluminum using flathead screw, then
> bond aluminum base to back side of instrument panel.
>
> I've also used JB Weld to attach aluminum L-brackets to
> the back of a panel to provide mounting surface for
> wire bundle clamps, small accessory items, etc.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Routing cables around back of panel |
| From: | "David Glauser" <david.glauser(at)xpsystems.com> |
JB Weld is right up there with duct tape.
http://www.j-bweld.com/
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: Neville Kilford [mailto:nkilford(at)etravel.org]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing cables around back of panel
Bob,
Thanks for the advice, but what's the JB Weld? A regular epoxy? I can't
seem to turn up anything on it. If I can't find a decent enough glue, I'll
use some soft csk alum. rivets to add a few strategically-positioned supports
before stove-enamelling. Should turn out alright, finish-wise.
Nev
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual Battery / Single Alternator |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Yep, tis true. Just install a larger battery on the starter, although
depending on temp and engine, the single 17AH battery may be all you need.
John
PS: I know that the Aerosance FADEC has been criticized for this, but it
should be evaluated on its other merits and using the criteria of what you
want out of your power plant.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration monitor? |
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I am thinking of creating (for me) a engine vibration monitor to go along
>with my engine monitor display. I can use an accelerometer and a display to
>measure the vibration. They do this on expensive, critical pumps and motors
>now. The idea is to have a display that reads from 1-100(?), and at cruise
>you would be reading a steady 60 (?). Any change of more than (5) points
>(?) and you might have a problem. The idea is to associate common operating
>senarios with a number on the display. Lets say you set 23 square reguarly
>in cruise and always read 52. One day you are reading 63, just might want
>to land and check it out. I know there are issues such as the sensor needs
>24 volts, and I might need to filter out some "stuff" electricall but it is
>fairly easy to do for 2-3 hundred bucks.
>
>Anyone have any thoughts, info, experience on this?
Vibration sensing and display technology is relatively
easy to implement . . . especially if you don't need
to accurately quantify the measurements. Further,
you can do this for under $300.
But before we launch off on the hammer-n-tongs of such
a task, can you identify what incipient failures
of engine components that would present vibration
symptoms so subtle that you need instrumentation
to detect them?
In about 1500 hours, I've had one incident of an
aborted flight due to bad magneto (caught in
preflight) and one other with a bad plug (probably
failed last flight but not noticed until next
pre-flight). I know there are plenty of dark-n-stormy
night stories out there that relate various and sundry
malfunctions. Further, ads that would sell us kilobuck
engine monitors would have us believe that the true
path to flying comfort is to link as much of our
biological nervous systems to that of our machines.
Based on observations of nearly a century of aviating
behind propellers and dancing pistons, the probability
of an engine failure ruining you day is tiny compared
to all of the other things that can and do go wrong.
Check out the accident reports as to root causes . . .
engine failures are small segment of the total and of
those, I've heard of perhaps a handful of incidents
where panel mounted instrumentation MIGHT have mitigated
the outcome.
Ever fly over a large body of water? Perfectly
running engines SOUND terrible as soon as your
distance to land exceeds the gliding distance of your
airplane. May I suggest that adding gobs of system
data on the panel has a higher probability of
being a distraction and/or GENERATOR of irrational
tension than for making your flying experience more
comfortable.
As distraction and/or tension go up, your ability as
pilot goes down. If have no better way to spend $300
and hours to fabricate such a system at this stage of
your project's completion -AND- you really believe the thing
would add value to your flying experience, we can talk
about some ways to do it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
| From: | "David Chalmers" <David(at)ChalmersFamily.com> |
I used a solder-cup D-type conector from the shack on my D10 - uploaded the software
and settings several times without a problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronnie Brown [mailto:romott(at)adelphia.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem
I tried to help a friend of mine update the software in his new Dynon.
The reason he was doing the software update was that his "attitude gyro"
rolled over after about 15 minutes of flight.
He called Dynon and they said yep, they found a problem and he needed to
update his software to the latest which I downloaded and installed on my
laptop.
When we connected the laptop to the Dynon, the Dynon flashes up a black
screen and has the message "Loading" and that is all it will do. We
disconnected the laptop, repowered the Dynon and it continued to say
"loading".
He called Dynon and they said, we had this happen once before, did you use
the machined D sub connector pins, which he replied no, he used a solder cup
connector from the Shack. The factory guy says this is his problem and the
connector pins need to be replaced!
Hmmmmm, I have never heard of this in my 30 years of working with computers
and instrumentation. The connector only has power and ground - no remote
sensors are used.
Am I wrong that these pins should work?????
If their pins are so "picky", then Dynon should supply the mating connector.
THANKS!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Routing cables around back of panel |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
Neville,
I am going to guess that you don't live in the US (or maybe on
the planet earth... :) ). JB Weld is a two part, quick and dirty
epoxy. It is generally available at most auto parts stores and
places like Walmart
Here's a link to its homepage:
http://www.j-bweld.com/coldweld.html
Matt-
N34RD
>
>
> Bob,
>
> Thanks for the advice, but what's the JB Weld? A regular epoxy? I
> can't seem to turn up anything on it. If I can't find a decent enough
> glue, I'll use some soft csk alum. rivets to add a few
> strategically-positioned supports before stove-enamelling. Should turn
> out alright, finish-wise.
>
> Nev
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing cables around back of panel
>
>
>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >Hi guys,
>> >
>> >Does anyone have any suggestions for routing bundles of cables and
>> tubes around the back of the instrument panel? I'm using cable ties
>> and
> screw-down
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Canyon <steve.canyon(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
David Chalmers wrote:
>The connector only has power and ground - no remote
>sensors are used.
---
If this is all that's connected to the unit from your computer, what
means are you expecting to carry the new file data over to the Dynon?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Canyon <steve.canyon(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
Ronnie Brown wrote:
>The connector only has power and ground - no remote
>sensors are used.
---
Sorry folks, quoted the wrong message before. :-(
How will the data get transferred from the laptop? Must be some other
path or this is incomplete.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
| From: | John Schroeder <jschroeder(at)perigee.net> |
Ronnie -
Sounds to me like they are covering for some bad engineering of their
serial port. Bob Nuckolls recommends using the machined pins because they
are higher quality and you can get a better crimp with them. But, ...
Keep us posted on the progress. We are planning on using one for our backup
ADI.
BTW, if you have a Dynon with the magnetometer for heading, why would you
need a whiskey compass?
Cheers,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
From memory when I wired that harness last week, there is a send, rcv,
and ground going from the PC serial port to the Dynon.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Canyon [mailto:steve.canyon(at)verizon.net]
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 7:18 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem
>
>
> -->
>
> David Chalmers wrote:
> >The connector only has power and ground - no remote
> >sensors are used.
> ---
> If this is all that's connected to the unit from your computer, what
> means are you expecting to carry the new file data over to the Dynon?
>
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Mark S. wrote:
Sounds like Digi-Key's price beats Pegasus by a wide margin.
<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>
Forgive me for responding to this. I try to avoid posting anything that
sounds commercial on the list. However, I would like to point out a major
difference between the Panasonic battery that Digi-Key sells and the battery
that Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies sells (my wife and I own Pegasus).
It's hard to imagine a tougher shock and vibration environment for a battery
than an open wheel formula car. The fastest line through a corner is often
over the curbing (complete with rumble strips). The suspension is so stiff
that the tire often provides the majority of the effective spring rate. The
Panasonic battery that Digi-Key sells has lead terminal posts. Batteries
with lead posts are not very reliable under this pounding. It's possible
that if every racer used very limp welding cable to connect the battery as
recommended by Bob Nuckolls, failures would be rare, but not too many racers
have read the AeroElectric Connection. A small formula car doesn't have an
alternator. The battery is charged between on-track sessions. If a post
breaks or if a connection becomes loose due to compression of the lead or
inadequate installation torque, you DNF.
The 18 Amp-Hr battery that Pegasus sells has a hard alloy terminal that is
about 0.080 thick x 0.48 wide with a clearance hole for AN3 attachment
hardware. I don't know what the terminal material is off the top of my head
but is appears to be as hard as steel with a heavy zinc plating. You can
torque the attachment hardware as you would any structural application and
the terminal post does not deform. We've had no reports of terminal failures
since switching to this design. While a lead terminal will probably give
very reliable service in an airplane, the same has not been the case for our
racing customers.
If you check the AeroElectric List archives from April 2003, you will find
mention of a broken terminal on a Panasonic battery (search for: "RG battery
heads-up").
Digi-Key is a fine company. I have purchased Panasonic batteries from them -
you can't beat the price. But Pegasus does not sell Panasonic batteries so
comparing the price is comparing apples to oranges. If we bought batteries
by the container full, we could probably lower the price considerably.
Unfortunately we don't sell as many as Digi-Key does. At Pegasus our goals
are to sell the best product for our customer's application, provide the
best customer service and to keep our prices competitive.
Sorry about the semi-commercial message, but I felt that I had to address
the reason for the price difference and to point out the difference in
terminals on the two batteries in question.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME - waiting for John Stark to ship my avionics stack
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivorphillips" <ivor(at)ivorphillips.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
I f you go to Dynon web site
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/downloads/EFIS-D10_Installation_Guide_20030319.pdf
all the pin outs are shown
regards Ivor Phillips----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)BowenAero.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem
>
> >From memory when I wired that harness last week, there is a send, rcv,
> and ground going from the PC serial port to the Dynon.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003 - The year of flight!
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Canyon [mailto:steve.canyon(at)verizon.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 7:18 PM
> > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem
> >
> >
> > -->
> >
> > David Chalmers wrote:
> > >The connector only has power and ground - no remote
> > >sensors are used.
> > ---
> > If this is all that's connected to the unit from your computer, what
> > means are you expecting to carry the new file data over to the Dynon?
> >
> > Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mireley <mireley(at)msu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> From memory when I wired that harness last week, there is a send, rcv,
> and ground going from the PC serial port to the Dynon.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
Did you try switching transmit and receive?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | brent bourgeois <bjb3013(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Inductive pickup |
July 15, 2003 - July 25, 2003
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-cf