AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-hb
July 13, 2007 - August 01, 2007
B&C. However, a buddy of mine recently experienced a
contactor failure in flight and it caused me to experience a
few "What If!?" nightmares. I'm back to reconsidering my
original decision...
I wish I could skip the contactor entirely, but the
components hanging off the master bus aren't switched (no
ON/OFF control) so I need a master contactor to switch power.
The options I toyed with initially were a mechanical can
(S-701), a solid state relay (Crydom D06D series), or a "hot
rod" manual switch.
I've had good personal experience with the cans (no failures
yet in hundreds of hours of flying). Sure, they get hot and
use/waste a little power but they have a good heritage. Had
my buddy not experienced a failure, I probably wouldn't have
worried at all. Now, I can't avoid worrying.
I've had good experience with the Crydom SSRs, too, and have
only seen one coaxed to failure by a well-intentioned
technician (25 Adc through a 7 Adc device... poof!). Low
power consumption, rugged, compact, moderately priced.
I've quizzed folks here about using manual "hot rod"
contactors and received some great feedback (e.g. - don't
use the cheap ones!). Seemed bulletproof at first, but
recent posts suggested these things can/have/will fail, too.
Perhaps it's just a problem with the cheap ones? Dunno.
So, I'm sitting at square one (again!) trying to determine
which of these options is most likely to keep me out of hot
water. I realize there is no "100% reliable" solution, but
I'm weighing my options to get the greatest number of 9's in
the long run.
Any feedback/wisdom from you folks will be greatly appreciated.
D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: best contactor reliability -- mechanical, solid |
state, or manual?
On 13 Jul 2007, at 04:38, D Wysong wrote:
>
> I have a remotely operated application where the loss of the master
> battery contactor will result in the loss of data/money/time (...
> and dignity!). My baseline design resembles a "Z" diagram (thanks
> Bob!) and I planned to use a mechanical, continuous duty contactor
> like the S-701 from B&C. However, a buddy of mine recently
> experienced a contactor failure in flight and it caused me to
> experience a few "What If!?" nightmares. I'm back to reconsidering
> my original decision...
>
> I wish I could skip the contactor entirely, but the components
> hanging off the master bus aren't switched (no ON/OFF control) so I
> need a master contactor to switch power.
>
> The options I toyed with initially were a mechanical can (S-701), a
> solid state relay (Crydom D06D series), or a "hot rod" manual switch.
>
> I've had good personal experience with the cans (no failures yet in
> hundreds of hours of flying). Sure, they get hot and use/waste a
> little power but they have a good heritage. Had my buddy not
> experienced a failure, I probably wouldn't have worried at all.
> Now, I can't avoid worrying.
>
> I've had good experience with the Crydom SSRs, too, and have only
> seen one coaxed to failure by a well-intentioned technician (25 Adc
> through a 7 Adc device... poof!). Low power consumption, rugged,
> compact, moderately priced.
>
> I've quizzed folks here about using manual "hot rod" contactors and
> received some great feedback (e.g. - don't use the cheap ones!).
> Seemed bulletproof at first, but recent posts suggested these
> things can/have/will fail, too. Perhaps it's just a problem with
> the cheap ones? Dunno.
>
> So, I'm sitting at square one (again!) trying to determine which of
> these options is most likely to keep me out of hot water. I
> realize there is no "100% reliable" solution, but I'm weighing my
> options to get the greatest number of 9's in the long run.
>
> Any feedback/wisdom from you folks will be greatly appreciated.
I assume that this is not an aircraft we are talking about.
If you have an application where you must absolutely ensure
continuity of power, then you have to assume that any single
component could someday fail, no matter how good quality that
component is. How about two contactors in parallel, with some sort
of periodic check to ensure that they are both working, or some way
to monitor them to have evidence that they are both working? For
monitoring, you could have each contactor feeding through a diode,
and monitor the voltage between the contactor and the diode. If the
contactor fails, that voltage will drop. If the voltage shows that
both contactors are closed, you could monitor that voltage to show
that each contactor can be opened (one at a time, so you don't stop
providing power to your application).
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low transmit volume on Valcom 760 |
Assuming that you've already tried a different headset to be sure it's
not the headset mic, check with VAL on whether there's a mic gain
control in the radio. (not the volume control on the front panel)
Some headsets with electret condenser mics have a gain control in the
mic itself. It would be a tiny recessed screw in the mic housing.
Charlie
Chad wrote:
>
> I don't have access to SWR but I went further away with the handheld
> (couple hundred feet I guess) and it's the same thing. You can hear and
> it's relatively clear, just really quiet.
>
> chad
>
>
> Subject: Re: Low transmit volume on Valcom 760
> From: Robert Feldtman (bobf(at)feldtman.com)
> Date: Thu Jul 12 - 3:57 AM
>
> Might be okay - Automatic gain control (AGC) on handheld may have
> cut down
> the volume - try to talk to somebody a further distance away. check
> your
> SWR. probably okay
>
> bobf
>
> On 7/11/07, Chad wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello all, new subscriber here looking for some helpful advice.
> >
> > I'm finishing up my instrument panel and did some radio testing
> > tonight. I have a Valcom 760 radio hooked up to a fiberglass rod
> type
> > antenna. I can receive great, in fact I was picking up traffic in
> the
> > pattern at an airport about 40 miles north of here with the
> airplane in
> > my garage. That said, I switched to a known unused channel and tried
> > some transmitting (listening on my handheld about 15 feet away)
> but the
> > volume was almost inaudible. I had to practically shout into my
> headset
> > mic in order to really hear and understand anything. I've checked
> some
> > of the basics with the wiring and don't see anything obvious.
> >
> > Anyone have any tips on what to check or what the problem might
> be? I'm
> > afraid that everyone will be able to hear me key the mic, but will
> > struggle understanding me with this low output volume.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Chad
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
What's the best way to switch the CDI input from GPS-WAAS to Nav1 to Nav2?
I have the Garmin GI106A, GNS430W, SL30 combination.
The GNS430W allows you to switch between GPS-WAAS and NAV1 internally.
Also the GNS430W and the SL30 are feeding GPS/VOR/ILS to the Blue
Mountian(BMA) EFIS/One.
The GNS430W via an analog connection and SL30 via the serial link.
The BMA autopilot is only able to be driven by the BMA EFIS/One.
Sincerely,
ERic--
RV-10, N104EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit for automatic fuel pump engageing |
>Hello all,
>
>I am looking for some hints / circuits for automatic switching of my fuel
>transfer pumps. As it is standard with the Lancair 360, I have two wing
>tanks and a header tank. As I do not want to switch on the transfer pumps
>manually every 30 minutes, probably forgetting it at all, I want to build
>in an "intelligent" circuit doing it for me.
>My set up is, that I have a capacitive level sensor in the header tank,
>providing 0 to 5 Volt depending on the fuel level. In addition, I have an
>independent sensor at about 15 gallons which will give me a last warning
>in case the circuit or transfer pumps isnot working.
>
>Does someone already went through this experiment and is willing to share
>his wiring drawings with me ? Even it is possible to develop something
>like that by my one, one does not have to re-invent the wheel.
The board that assembles the product described
in these documents . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/
Has up to 4 a/d inputs and up to 3 open collector,
moderate current pull-downs (1A) and good program
space. If you could send me a schematic of your
"manual" system and a brief Product Performance
Specification as to how you'd like the thing to
work, I'll have my software guy look at it.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
>I am going with the Z-19 Rear batteries in an RV-8 with the 2.5 SC engine
>with Supercharger.
>My question is why not be able to operate the second Fuel Pump from either
>battery?
>Seems like it would give another option for keeping the fuel flowing. Mine
>will be wired this way.
How many failures are you planning to stack? I've seen some
airplanes wired where the owner was able to select backups
to backups . . . the architecture offered a hose of variables
for powering things up in case this failed, and then that failed
too, etc.
The probability of dual failures on any one tank of fuel is
exceedingly low. Properly maintained RG batteries (when
installed to accommodate relatively fragile lead posts)
are exceedingly reliable. The failure mode effects analysis
process is a deduction of all the what-if's but for our
purposes, we don't need to go more than one layer deep.
Given the quantum jump in alternator and battery reliability,
you can comfortably assume that altenrator failure will be
rare and both properly maintained batteries will be there
when you need them.
>Thanks to Bob N. for all he does.
My pleasure sir. I'm pleased that you find the efforts
useful.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Bob,
Normally a metal cage type structure will shield the antenna from radiating, if
the cage openings are smaller than around 3 feet, that is assuming you mean to
have the antenna inside the fuselage.
It is possible to actually connect to parts of the structure, at strategic points,
and use the structre to radiate, in some cases, but this is a difficult process.
If the matching point is not correct, the cable will radiate and cause
problems for other avionics too.
For a tube / fabric airframe, antenn drag is not an issue, use a normal or swept
back wire antenna, mounted at a tubing juncion or on a pice of metal panel as
far away from the engine as practicable. For an Avid flyer, the rear turtledeck
is aluminium and works well.
Ralph, radio tech in NZ
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123680#123680
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff " <jeffrey_davidson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Connecting a Garmin (Apollo) SL40 COM to a PS Engineering |
PMA4000 Audio Panel
Since I'm a rookie at this, I just re-read the section in the Aerolectric
Connection about Audio Panels. The answer to this is not in there. I am
having trouble with the naming conventions provided by two different vendors
in their documentation. I believe that they are calling the same things by
different names. That would be a great injustice on their parts if
intentional, so I am sure that it is just my inexperience playing the major
role here. Anyway, for connecting the COM to the Audio Panel, here are the
pertinent connection labels and pins:
On the Garmin SL40 COM:
Headphone - 14
Audio Ground - 13
Mic 1 - 8
Mic Ground - 7
TxKey - 4
On the PMA4000 Audio Panel:
Com 1 Audio HI - Top-19
Com 1 Audio LOW - Top-7
Com 1 PTT - Bottom 22
Com 1 Mic Audio HI - Bottom 21
Com 1 Mic Audio LO - Bottom 9
What I'd like is for some to confirm that they match up (are connected ) as
follows:
Headphone - 14 to Com 1 Audio HI - Top -19
Audio Ground - 13 to Com 1 Audio LO - Top - 7
Mic 1 - 8 to Com Mic Audio HI - Bottom - 21
Mic Ground - 7 to Com 1 Audio LO - Bottom 9
TxKey - 4 to Com 1 PTT - Bottom - 22
Thanks for suffering thought these details with me. It seems that PS
Engineering refers to the ground as "LO" consistently.
Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Connecting a Garmin (Apollo) SL40 COM to a PS Engineering |
PMA4000 Audio Panel
I'm just about to go through the same thing only with an SL30. If you
call Tony at Stark Avionics I'm sure he will have the correct answer.
He has been very helpful in my other endeavors so far.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
704-362-0005 Home
704-281-7884 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
7/14/2007
Hello Eric, Great equipment choice. Switching can be done with a mulltiple
pole remote relay controlled by a push button switch that shows which mode
you are in.
Ameri-King has some relays:
http://www.ameri-king.com/
So does Northern Airborne Technology, but their web site is pretty opaque.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: CDI Switch?
What's the best way to switch the CDI input from GPS-WAAS to Nav1 to Nav2?
I have the Garmin GI106A, GNS430W, SL30 combination.
The GNS430W allows you to switch between GPS-WAAS and NAV1 internally.
Also the GNS430W and the SL30 are feeding GPS/VOR/ILS to the Blue
Mountian(BMA) EFIS/One.
The GNS430W via an analog connection and SL30 via the serial link.
The BMA autopilot is only able to be driven by the BMA EFIS/One.
Sincerely,
ERic--
RV-10, N104EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: best contactor reliability -- mechanical, solid |
state, or manual?
>
>On 13 Jul 2007, at 04:38, D Wysong wrote:
>
>>
>>I have a remotely operated application where the loss of the master
>>battery contactor will result in the loss of data/money/time (...
>>and dignity!). My baseline design resembles a "Z" diagram (thanks
>>Bob!) and I planned to use a mechanical, continuous duty contactor
>>like the S-701 from B&C. However, a buddy of mine recently
>>experienced a contactor failure in flight and it caused me to
>>experience a few "What If!?" nightmares. I'm back to reconsidering
>>my original decision...
Help us with a bit more information about your application.
What kind of vehicle? What kind of environment? What's the
energy requirement to maintain data in vulnerable systems.
It's often much easier to arrange for brownout and/or momentary
power loss for a few items than to back-up the whole system.
Finally, it's almost always better to have a plan-a/plan-b
modus operandi than to scratch around for "more reliable"
hardware. EVERYTHING will break at some point in time.
Give us a rundown of your equipment that must stay awake
and what the power requirements are.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Connecting a Garmin (Apollo) SL40 COM to a PS |
Engineering PMA4000 Audio Panel
| From: | Ron Quillin <rjquillin(at)gmail.com> |
At 20:28 7/13/2007, you wrote:
>What I'd like is for some to confirm that they match up (are
>connected ) as follows:
>
>Headphone - 14 to Com 1 Audio HI - Top -19
>Audio Ground - 13 to Com 1 Audio LO - Top - 7
>Mic 1 - 8 to Com Mic Audio HI - Bottom - 21
>Mic Ground - 7 to Com 1 Audio LO - Bottom 9
>TxKey - 4 to Com 1 PTT - Bottom - 22
>
>Thanks for suffering thought these details with me. It seems that
>PS Engineering refers to the ground as "LO" consistently.
>
>Jeff Davidson
Should work fine Jeff, as you've indicated.
-Back in the days-, before all our new solid state electronics, many
audio systems were truly 'balanced'; that is for increased noise
rejections capability neither signal was ground referenced, but
referenced to one another. A ground referenced shield covered the
pair. Low signal level signals, microphone lines for example, are
still, in professional systems, done this way. However, the higher
level 'line' level signals, that used to be 500 or 600 ohm balanced
lines, have for the most part become single-ended; with a high signal
and a ground return completing the path. You will note most of our
com radios have a ~500 ohm output and most intercoms and audio panels
have their input impedance spec'd as ~500 ohms despite the fact
generally in newer equipment neither really is. It's a carry over
for compatibility with as MS would name, legacy equipment. But still
a good idea when properly implemented and interconnected.
Problem here with 'single ended (not balanced) systems' is that the
signal will "see" any stray currents and voltage drops through the
resistance of the real world as an additional voltage. That
additional voltage will appear as unwanted noise, or whatever, with
the signal we desire; an especially bothersome issue with the low
level signals our microphones provide. With the higher level line
signals it's less a problem, but is just ignored by many
manufacturers. PS, to their credit, didn't ignore the real or old
world and provisioned their equipment with both hi and low inputs for
those wishing to use shielded twisted pair cable to reduce noise in
all interconnects. While their "lo" may still be very similar to
ground, it is still provided and by following their IM one can end up
with an audio system having greater immunity to externally generated
noise; this by running the 'lo' along with the 'hi' and not using
the airframe as the signal return.
It's very important to keep the microphone jack mounting bushing, and
to a lessor degree the headphone as well, insulated from the airframe
and rely on the LO wire to provide that connection. To not do so
negates the advantage of what PS has provided us.
Ron Q.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
>
>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I was just curious if you had had any time to explore any of Plane-Power's
>internally regulated alternators on that fancy alternator stand?
>
>Thanks,
No. My duties with an ageing father in Medicine Lodge, putting
down new hardwood floors on my house and needs of my
new clients (out of town 4 days last week and 3 days next
week) have push my drive-stand project back into the corner.
Actually, I have no particular plans to test Plane-Power's
products. They are wired exactly the same architecture
and alternator control philosophy that you would get if
if you did a B&C LR-3 installation on an externally
regulated alternator . . . or figure Z-11 from the book.
I intend to explore the energy questions on alternators
in general with a goal of achieving positive on/off, any time,
any conditions control of an internally regulated alternator
that is NOT modified per the Plane Power manufacturing
philosophy. I.e. off the shelf automotive.
I can deduce no reason to be skeptical of Plane Power's
product performance claims.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan K. Adamson" <aadamson(at)highrf.com> |
Ok, so I'm doing a little remote diagnostics. I've got a friend who has a
dual battery, dual alternator system. It's flown for 75 hrs with no
problems and now has developed an odd on.
It uses 2 12v Odyssey batteries, and a regular Continental alternator and an
SD-20 both regulated with B&C LR3's.
Charging starts out fine and in about 15 mins, both alternators shut off and
he's on battery only until he descends to a lower altitude (not predictable)
or shuts down the electrical for some time and then brings both Alts back on
line. We've tried the turn on a load, turn off a load routing, also he had
been flying with his crosstie on all the time and this last flight he stared
with crosstie on and then turned it off and it made no difference.
Anyone care to offer the short version of where to start and what to look
for besides the obvious, wire loose, connector broken, ground failed, etc?
Thanks in advance,
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I think Perihelion Design has a relay for the job. (Originally a B Nuckolls design).
http://www.periheliondesign.com/18polerelays.htm
Parts list and PCB design are free for the asking. Assembled unit is cheap.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123775#123775
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best contactor reliability -- mechanical, solid |
state, or ma
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
Some reuse from an email to a customer here...)
Compare---
____________________Type 70_____GX-11
Weight.........................12.5 Oz.............18 Oz
Temp...........................50 DegC...........75-85 DegC
(50 degC 122 F) makes the type 70 unusable....
Position........................Cap Down..........Any
Environmental...............Dust-Proof.........Hermetically sealed
Coil Suppression............Must be added....Built in
B&C Type 70 uses diodes, GX-11 uses transorbs (SnapJacks!)
Continuous Amps............80 at 50C..........150A at 75C
Inrush A.........................150...................500-2000
Open against Vmax.......... 35V.................>>100V
(...same as Kilovac)
Hold current.....................1.0 A................700 mA
(Kilovac is 100 mA, Gigavac has lower hold currents on request)
G-force opening...............2G ??................>>10G
Anyway the GX11 will be about $120, but the Type 70 ($37.00 from Newark) is not
really useable in my opinion. You may want the accessory contacts and long leads...couldn't
hurt.
The Kilovac EV200aaana (aka Blue Sea 9014) is still great (similar to the Gigavac
GX11).
The type 70 is problematic even if very common and long in the tooth. It is deficient
in three main areas:
1) Poor coil suppression (this can be retrofitted to improve it)
2) Inadequate operating temperature. My GUESS is that the early ones had fiber/bakelite
interiors, now they are Nylon. Regardless 122F spec is way too low to
use.
3) Inadequate G force withstand. 2G ??
4) Open against Vmax. 35V. They caould sustain an arc if the alternator runs away.
Pure solid state solutions are not quite ready. I have experimented with this,
and continue to do so. There are some remarkable devices in development.
Mechanical contactors--"Flaming River" seems to come up when people talk about
quality. I would like some people to describe what happens to lower quality mechanical
contactors, but I haven't heard details.
"The despotism of custom is everywhere...the standing hindrance to human advancement."
--John Stuart Mill
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123780#123780
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to start |
>
>
>Ok, so I'm doing a little remote diagnostics. I've got a friend who has a
>dual battery, dual alternator system. It's flown for 75 hrs with no
>problems and now has developed an odd on.
>
>It uses 2 12v Odyssey batteries, and a regular Continental alternator and an
>SD-20 both regulated with B&C LR3's.
>
>Charging starts out fine and in about 15 mins, both alternators shut off and
>he's on battery only until he descends to a lower altitude (not predictable)
>or shuts down the electrical for some time and then brings both Alts back on
>line. We've tried the turn on a load, turn off a load routing, also he had
>been flying with his crosstie on all the time and this last flight he stared
>with crosstie on and then turned it off and it made no difference.
>
>Anyone care to offer the short version of where to start and what to look
>for besides the obvious, wire loose, connector broken, ground failed, etc?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Alan
The airplane should be flown with the CROSS-TIE OPEN. This is
the whole purpose of dual, independent systems is to eliminate
the possibility of a failure affecting both systems. If leaving
the cross tie open does not change the observed phenomenon,
then I suspect a wiring error. The cross-tie contactor is, for
some reason remaining closed. There has to be something else
going on as well. The only thing I can think of that would
have such a profound effect on both systems is a flaky ground
connection between crankcase and firewall ground stud.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to start |
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Ok, so I'm doing a little remote diagnostics. I've got a friend who has a
>>dual battery, dual alternator system. It's flown for 75 hrs with no
>>problems and now has developed an odd on.
>>
>>It uses 2 12v Odyssey batteries, and a regular Continental alternator and an
>>SD-20 both regulated with B&C LR3's.
>>
>>Charging starts out fine and in about 15 mins, both alternators shut off and
>>he's on battery only until he descends to a lower altitude (not predictable)
>>or shuts down the electrical for some time and then brings both Alts back on
>>line. We've tried the turn on a load, turn off a load routing, also he had
>>been flying with his crosstie on all the time and this last flight he stared
>>with crosstie on and then turned it off and it made no difference.
>>
>>Anyone care to offer the short version of where to start and what to look
>>for besides the obvious, wire loose, connector broken, ground failed, etc?
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>Alan
>
> The airplane should be flown with the CROSS-TIE OPEN. This is
> the whole purpose of dual, independent systems is to eliminate
> the possibility of a failure affecting both systems. If leaving
> the cross tie open does not change the observed phenomenon,
> then I suspect a wiring error. The cross-tie contactor is, for
> some reason remaining closed. There has to be something else
> going on as well. The only thing I can think of that would
> have such a profound effect on both systems is a flaky ground
> connection between crankcase and firewall ground stud.
Got my keyboard cord tangled around my eyeteeth and couldn't
see what I was typing. Ignore all the above about cross-tie
operation. I can see that I'd mis-read the significance of
the cross-tie switch in your dissertation of observed events.
Check out that grounding thing.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Semi-Custom Products |
I've been working on a line of new products for the
AeroElectric Connection website that will be unique
to AEC. We're going to resist being a dealer for other
folks products.
One project utilizes an ECB and enclosure that has
features described in these two illustrations:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/A15_Package.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/Do-Much_Board_Schematic.pdf
The schematic would never have ALL components installed,
and in some cases, components left of are replaced with
solid jumpers. However, depending on what parts are installed,
their values, and what software is installed in the microcontroller,
we can craft a variety of products with 98% commonality
of bill of materials.
The first product to be offered under this design and
marketing philosophy is described at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/9011-700-1C.pdf
. . . except that it will have a 15-pin connector on it
instead of a 9-pin.
I'm publishing the schematic for the more technically
inclined. Perhaps the architecture will suggest an application
close to your own wishes for a smart black box to do some
task. If so, let's talk about it and see if my software
guy can't whip it out in reasonably short order and save
you a lot of development time to craft a nicely packaged
electro-whizzy. Or, if you want to do your own byte-pudding
I could offer you a kit of ECB and enclosure from which
you could move your project ahead.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Adamson" <aadamson(at)highrf.com> |
Thanks Bob, and that is where we are going to start.
Couple more tidbits... In talking with my friend. I found another strange
oddity. He has enunciator lights that are connected to the LV warnings on
the VR's, but they never went on. Also in talked with him, he said he has a
"test" curcuit for his annunciators and only those 2 don't light.
So, I think there is a couple of things we need to look at... The ground
issues in general and the annunciation system. Something is allowing the
alternators to start charging and then to drop off line at some point, but
because the LV warnings don't flicker, he doesn't find out about the event
until the engine monitor determines an LV condition and screams in his
ear...
At least we have some places to start.... If you think the LV curcuit being
open might have a residual effect let us know that too...
Thanks as always,
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Where to start
-->
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Ok, so I'm doing a little remote diagnostics. I've got a friend who
>>has a dual battery, dual alternator system. It's flown for 75 hrs
>>with no problems and now has developed an odd on.
>>
>>It uses 2 12v Odyssey batteries, and a regular Continental alternator
>>and an SD-20 both regulated with B&C LR3's.
>>
>>Charging starts out fine and in about 15 mins, both alternators shut
>>off and he's on battery only until he descends to a lower altitude
>>(not predictable) or shuts down the electrical for some time and then
>>brings both Alts back on line. We've tried the turn on a load, turn
>>off a load routing, also he had been flying with his crosstie on all
>>the time and this last flight he stared with crosstie on and then turned
it off and it made no difference.
>>
>>Anyone care to offer the short version of where to start and what to
>>look for besides the obvious, wire loose, connector broken, ground failed,
etc?
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>Alan
>
> The airplane should be flown with the CROSS-TIE OPEN. This is
> the whole purpose of dual, independent systems is to eliminate
> the possibility of a failure affecting both systems. If leaving
> the cross tie open does not change the observed phenomenon,
> then I suspect a wiring error. The cross-tie contactor is, for
> some reason remaining closed. There has to be something else
> going on as well. The only thing I can think of that would
> have such a profound effect on both systems is a flaky ground
> connection between crankcase and firewall ground stud.
Got my keyboard cord tangled around my eyeteeth and couldn't
see what I was typing. Ignore all the above about cross-tie
operation. I can see that I'd mis-read the significance of
the cross-tie switch in your dissertation of observed events.
Check out that grounding thing.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Abrahamson <dave(at)abrahamson.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430 transmitter problem |
I received the following advice from a local avionics tech.
"First thing I would look at is the Com1 circuit breaker. The 430
has two power circuits... one for the com and one for the
nav/gps. The nav/gps will light the unit up and allow the Nav and
GPS to work, but if the com side isn't getting any (or is getting
low) voltage, then you would have transmission issues. So check the
breaker to make sure it isn't giving a high resistance when closed,
and that you have voltage going to the power pins on the com
plug. It might just be best to replace the com breaker with a new
one just to be sure. The next would be to swap com coaxes between
the SL30 and the 430. If it follows the antenna, then you know it is
the coax, antenna, or bonding issue. If it doesn't then you know you
have an issue with the 430 transmitter."
I haven't had a chance to go back out to the airport yet, but the
very first thing I will check will be that I have a good ground to
the 430's com circuit. Then, his suggestions. FWIW, one
of Garmin's Aviation Field Service Engineers replied to my email
with "This sounds like a problem in the GNS430 itself and will need
to come back for repair."
I'll advise what I find and do.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: S700 2-50 Switch / Electric Fuel Pump |
Finishing up the switch wiring on my RV7A Panel. I am using Z13/8 to wire
the aircraft. I am using the S700 2-50 switch to activiate my electric fuel
pump. The momentary switch up side primes the engine and the full on down
would be used incase of the primary fuel pump failure. The engine id fuel
injected. Now the question. I am not quite sure how to wire this switch up
to make all of this happen.....
Frank @ SGU RV7A Panel/Wiring just about ready to hang the engine....when
he gets here!!!
_________________________________________________________________
http://liveearth.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: S700 2-50 Switch / Electric Fuel Pump |
Answer found............Page 11-2 AeroElectric connections. Once again
thanks Bob......
Now back to tryinjg to find other obvious things known to most that i can
ask questions about
Frank @ SGU RV7A Panel/Electrical
>From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: S700 2-50 Switch / Electric Fuel Pump
>Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2007 15:28:52 -0600
>
>
>
>Finishing up the switch wiring on my RV7A Panel. I am using Z13/8 to wire
>the aircraft. I am using the S700 2-50 switch to activiate my electric fuel
>pump. The momentary switch up side primes the engine and the full on down
>would be used incase of the primary fuel pump failure. The engine id fuel
>injected. Now the question. I am not quite sure how to wire this switch up
>to make all of this happen.....
>
>Frank @ SGU RV7A Panel/Wiring just about ready to hang the
>engine....when he gets here!!!
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>http://liveearth.msn.com
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now!
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Barber" <CBarber(at)TexasAttorney.net> |
| Subject: | Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
My project is an all electric bird (Velocity SE) with a rotary engine.
Since if I loose power things get quite I am using Bob's duel
alternator/duel battery set up. What I am curious about is the switches
in the cabin. Currently I have all the switches up high on the panel a
bit right of center towards the co-pilot position. I hope to not have a
passanger who would inadvertanlty flip a switch down and off, HOWEVER,
you never know what may get tangled or a stray move may flip a
switch....in my set up, if my coil switch or primary injectors get
switched off I will start sweating. Also, I don't really mind the
switches where they are, but I do have a couple of other places I would
like them, but I placed them here as to minimize being bumped.
My question is what other options do I have to either guard against
accidental deactivation. I have purchased a couple of aviation locking
toggles from ebay, but they are kinda small and may not be up for the
task (but at $13.00 I couldn't go too wrong...they may work for my coil
switch and primary fuel). The regulare priced DPDT (for my contactors
and injectors) seem to start at close to $60.00 a piece...a bit much for
my police salery if other options will surfice.
I have also considered those installing some of the switch guards you
see in old nuclear missle bunker movies that they would open to expose
the firing buttons for the big ol' missles. I considered installing
them upside down (which is really easy) so that they are on when the
cover is closed thus making the switch impossible to turn off by
mistake. This seems really fool proof, however, the guards, while cheap,
are pretty big and do not look all that, well, elligant.
Also, I was watching the Astronaut Farmer last night on PPV and saw the
little hard wire loops that where installed next to the switches on each
side of the individual switches in his space capsule and this reminded
me of the ones NASA used to use....maybe still do. Donno. These seem
to be just half circles that make grabbing the switch very deliberate
and minimizes potential knocks. Finally, it seems as if I have seen
bars held in by springs that lay across a series of switches to keep
them in place.
What say ye? Insight? Wisdom? Warnings? Observations? WAG's?
Thanks.
All the best,
Chris Barber
Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Barber" <CBarber(at)TexasAttorney.net> |
| Subject: | Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
My project is an all electric bird (Velocity SE) with a rotary engine.
Since if I loose power things get quite I am using Bob's duel
alternator/duel battery set up. What I am curious about is the switches
in the cabin. Currently I have all the switches up high on the panel a
bit right of center towards the co-pilot position. I hope to not have a
passanger who would inadvertanlty flip a switch down and off, HOWEVER,
you never know what may get tangled or a stray move may flip a
switch....in my set up, if my coil switch or primary injectors get
switched off I will start sweating. Also, I don't really mind the
switches where they are, but I do have a couple of other places I would
like them, but I placed them here as to minimize being bumped.
My question is what other options do I have to either guard against
accidental deactivation. I have purchased a couple of aviation locking
toggles from ebay, but they are kinda small and may not be up for the
task (but at $13.00 I couldn't go too wrong...they may work for my coil
switch and primary fuel). The regulare priced DPDT (for my contactors
and injectors) seem to start at close to $60.00 a piece...a bit much for
my police salery if other options will surfice.
I have also considered those installing some of the switch guards you
see in old nuclear missle bunker movies that they would open to expose
the firing buttons for the big ol' missles. I considered installing
them upside down (which is really easy) so that they are on when the
cover is closed thus making the switch impossible to turn off by
mistake. This seems really fool proof, however, the guards, while cheap,
are pretty big and do not look all that, well, elligant.
Also, I was watching the Astronaut Farmer last night on PPV and saw the
little hard wire loops that where installed next to the switches on each
side of the individual switches in his space capsule and this reminded
me of the ones NASA used to use....maybe still do. Donno. These seem
to be just half circles that make grabbing the switch very deliberate
and minimizes potential knocks. Finally, it seems as if I have seen
bars held in by springs that lay across a series of switches to keep
them in place.
What say ye? Insight? Wisdom? Warnings? Observations? WAG's?
Thanks.
All the best,
Chris Barber
Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McMahon" <blackoaks(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
You might look at www.PerihelionDesign.com<http://www.periheliondesign.com/>
for switch guards......
--
John McMahon
Lancair Super ES, S/N 170, N9637M (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "raymondj" <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
Saw this on eBay. Expensive but a possibility.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Reproduction-NASA-Space-Shuttle-Switch
-Guards_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50466QQihZ008QQitemZ180138370945QQrdZ1
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher Barber
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 8:26 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch guards, switch locks, locking
switches?
My project is an all electric bird (Velocity SE) with a rotary engine.
Since if I loose power things get quite I am using Bob's duel
alternator/duel battery set up. What I am curious about is the switches
in the cabin. Currently I have all the switches up high on the panel a
bit right of center towards the co-pilot position. I hope to not have a
passanger who would inadvertanlty flip a switch down and off, HOWEVER,
you never know what may get tangled or a stray move may flip a
switch....in my set up, if my coil switch or primary injectors get
switched off I will start sweating. Also, I don't really mind the
switches where they are, but I do have a couple of other places I would
like them, but I placed them here as to minimize being bumped.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Connecting Shieled Wires |
I'm looking for information about connecting two shielded wires
together.
Example inputs from other sources to a PMA 8000 audio panel:
Should the shields be butt spliced along with the other wires into a one
big
mess?
Should all wires and shields be connected with Sub D connectors?
Should the shields be left cut and unattached?
Are there other methods?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
In a message dated 7/15/2007 2:30:57 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
raymondj(at)frontiernet.net writes:
Saw this on eBay. Expensive but a possibility.
_http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Reproduction-NASA-Space-Shuttle-Switch-Gua
rds_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50466QQihZ008QQitemZ180138370945QQrdZ1_
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Reproduction-NASA-Space-Shuttle-Switch-Guards_W0Q
QcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50466QQihZ008QQitemZ180138370945QQrdZ1)
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
Did you note that this is our own Eric Jones (PerihelionDesign.com)?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I sell the half-loop and the space shuttle guards on my website. In fact NASA
and millitary now buys them from me. (Perihelion Design has "parts in orbit"...when
I mentioned this to a friend he said that HE had "parts that left the solar
system on two Voyagers"...so you can't win).
I call the half-loop guards NASA X-plane guards, but they were also used on many
aircraft.
The flip-up toogle guards (non-mil spec) in many colors are being sold almost for
FREE on MPJA:
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16100+SW
"Ring the bells that still can ring;
Forget your perfect offering!
There is a crack in everything;
That's how the light gets in."
---Leonard Cohen
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123898#123898
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Connecting Shieled Wires |
| From: | Ron Quillin <rjquillin(at)gmail.com> |
At 03:29 7/15/2007, you wrote:
>I'm looking for information about connecting two shielded wires together.
>
>Example inputs from other sources to a PMA 8000 audio panel:
>Should the shields be butt spliced along with the other wires into a one big
>mess?
>Should all wires and shields be connected with Sub D connectors?
>Should the shields be left cut and unattached?
>Are there other methods?
Without a bit more information, this can have a number of solutions,
but I believe one can safely say regarding microphone lines;
They should be one continuous run from the microphone source, or
jack, to the input of the amplifier. This does not preclude
intermediate connectors and cable segments, but the shield should
remain connected to itself throughout the length, and should not have
connections to other shields or the airframe except at a single
point, the input to the amplifier at the audio panel/intercom.
A shield cut and unattached at either end is no longer a shield.
Ron Q.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Burnaby" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
Aerotronics, in Montana, supplies rocker switches that live behind
transparent, springloaded doors. W-a-a-a-y Cool!
www.aerotronics.com , Kit Panels, New Glasair, Steve Thomas' Panel ,
lower left corner.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "raymondj" <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
No, I must admit, I didn't. I got to the price and quit reading.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
----- Original Message -----
From: BobsV35B(at)aol.com
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch guards, switch locks, locking
switches?
In a message dated 7/15/2007 2:30:57 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
raymondj(at)frontiernet.net writes:
Saw this on eBay. Expensive but a possibility.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Reproduction-NASA-Space-Shuttle-Switch
-Guards_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50466QQihZ008QQitemZ180138370945QQrdZ1
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
Did you note that this is our own Eric Jones (PerihelionDesign.com)?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Barber" <CBarber(at)TexasAttorney.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
Yep, I think I am gonna go with your half loop x-plane solution. Kinda like
the "retro-futuristic" look. May place my online order in just a bit.
Thanks guys.
All the best,
Chris
www.LoneStarVelocity.com
Christopher Barber
Attorney and Counselor at Law
5110 Bissonnet, No 418
Bellaire, Texas 77401
Serving the Needs of Senior Texans
281-464-LAWS (5297)
281-754-4168 Fax
www.TexasAttorney.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric
M. Jones
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 7:34 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking
switches?
I sell the half-loop and the space shuttle guards on my website. In fact
NASA and millitary now buys them from me. (Perihelion Design has "parts in
orbit"...when I mentioned this to a friend he said that HE had "parts that
left the solar system on two Voyagers"...so you can't win).
I call the half-loop guards NASA X-plane guards, but they were also used on
many aircraft.
The flip-up toogle guards (non-mil spec) in many colors are being sold
almost for FREE on MPJA:
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16100+SW
"Ring the bells that still can ring;
Forget your perfect offering!
There is a crack in everything;
That's how the light gets in."
---Leonard Cohen
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123898#123898
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Thomas <lists(at)stevet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
Slight correction to John's comment below. The switches behind the
clear plastic spring-loaded doors are push-button switches, not
rocker. They are SPST, and so have limited application. However,
I'm using them for my ignition switches, one left and one right on a
Z-14 architecture. But they are indeed way-cool!
Best Regards,
Steve Thomas
____________________________________________________________________
On Jul 15, 2007, at 10:50 AM, John Burnaby wrote:
> Aerotronics, in Montana, supplies rocker switches that live behind
> transparent, springloaded doors. W-a-a-a-y Cool!
> www.aerotronics.com , Kit Panels, New Glasair, Steve Thomas'
> Panel , lower left corner.
>
>
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Kuffels <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
Chris,
<>
Mouser (mouser.com) has medium capacity locking toggle switches
at reasonable cost. For example their NKK SPST (633-S1AL-RO) is
rated at 20 amps DC for $10.25. I like the looks of the handle
on this switch. Mouser gives excellent service and they don't
mind small orders.
Tom Kuffel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merlin" <phil.merlin(at)skynet.be> |
Hello,
As an omnidirectional antenna radiates at right angle, a belly bent whip
antenna should radiate in a plan at right angle of the aircraft longitudinal
axis. Hence the range should be very limited compared to a vertical
antenna...
Does somebody know if this is the case or not ?
Thanks in advance for your science :-)
Philippe RV9A
Brussels - Belgium
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Belly antenna |
Bent belly whip antenna is slightly compromised in the vertical polarization
plane for com signals but hardly a noticeable difference from a straight
whip.
John Greaves
VariEze N81JG
************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Kuffels <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
Raymond
<>
<>
Pull handle out, move to desired position, release. They lock in
all positions (two for on-none-on or on-none-off and three for
on-off-on).
Tom Kuffel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "raymondj" <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
Thanks Tom.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"Hope for the best,
but prepare for the worst"
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch guards, switch locks, locking
switches?
>
>
> Raymond
>
> < lock/unlock ( I'm guessing pull out) and if they lock in one or both
> positions>>
>
> <>
>
> Pull handle out, move to desired position, release. They lock in all
> positions (two for on-none-on or on-none-off and three for on-off-on).
>
> Tom Kuffel
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Belly antenna |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Bent or sloping whip makes virtually no difference. The ground plane is still flat,
the magnetic component of the radiated field is caused by current flow, most
of which occurs in the first third of the whip, so this portion is the area
to leave straight.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123983#123983
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Switch guards, switch locks, locking switches? |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
You can be sure anything painted red or with obvious guards will be tested by your
passengers! Mixture controls in Cessnas are a favourite target.
I would go for the purple or blue "missile switches" although the genuine MS25224-1
I used to control a turbine are nicer to look at and handle.
The flip covers referred to are probably Honeywell push switches, we have loads
of them at work, they have a stack of microswitches operated by a paddlewheel
from the pushbutton. Trouble is, if the illumination lights fail, its hard to
tell if they are set to on or off position.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=123987#123987
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks a million Bob, my days with the Saturn V moon rocket, triple module
redundancy, sometimes rears it's head. Think I will go with your original
diagram.
Paul
************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Forrest <heart911(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Landing Taxi lights wig wag |
I had a problem today that I cannot solve.
I hooked up the landing and taxi lights through a SSF1 flasher
according to one of Bobs diagrams
The system uses 2 2-10 switches with middle position for wig wag.
The lights are Duckworth 100 watt with the wire from the lamps going
to ground on the last rib along with the grounds for the nav lights
Connected a battery to the main buss and forest of grounds.
The landing light works but the taxi light fuse (7.5A) blew and the
flasher did not work
I removed the wires from the flasher and again the landing light
worked and the taxi light fuse blew.
I reversed the wires at the taxi light with the light filament wire
now going to the switch and the light housing wire going to ground.
The reversed filament wire was connected the the switch wire with a
clip wire and the ground wire was connected to gnd point without the
nav ground.
Everything worked- Taxi-Landing light and wig-wag
I then connected the wires for final connection using knife splices
and a ring terminal for the ground.
Hooked the battery back up and nothing works not even the landing
light. The fuses are not blown, the panel instruments and nav lights
work.
The flasher buzzes when the landing light is off and the Taxi light
switch moves through the middle position.
The only difference was hooking the nav ground back up at the same
time. I don't have enough knowledge to know if this could cause the
problem.
Thanks for any advice or information
Jerry Forrest
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
>Thanks a million Bob, my days with the Saturn V moon rocket, triple module
>redundancy, sometimes rears it's head. Think I will go with your original
>diagram.
>Paul
Understand. I have a client right now that believes it is
better to have two position sensors for a flap system than
just one. I'm trying to help him understand that if you can
design your system to be tolerant of any single failure
then one sensor by definition will suffice. If failure of
the pilot to KNOW flap position at all times creates a
strong potential for hazard, then you need THREE sensors
and a validity evaluation system that compares all three
data values, tosses out the one that is bad and annunciates
the failure (cause we're now down to two . . . one more sensor
crap and we're toast). Two sensors in a fail-proof approach
is not sufficient.
Figure Z-19 presupposes that all the things I think I understood
about engine operations are true at the time I crafted the
diagram. If some new condition or requirement comes along concerning
these automotive conversions (or I mis-understood some feature
that has always existed) then some shuffling of the switches
and wires may be in order.
So I hope that you nor anyone else here on the List believes
that Z-19 or any other architecture is somehow sacred, golden,
or guaranteed to please for ever and ever amen. It's ALWAYS
good to question and to raise your own alarms should you
perceive that common understanding of requirements has not yet
been achieved.
This is why I always query an individual about perceptions of
shortfall when changes to the Z-figures are suggested. I
and everyone else on the List NEEDS TO KNOW when some new,
useful or necessary feature is called for. So please don't
take my questioning as some defense of my ideas at the expense
of your own. Our common goal should be the elegant solution.
Maximize functionality and safety with the minimum of parts
count, weight and cost while keeping operating procedures
as simple as we can. When things are going sour in the cockpit,
you don't want a feature of poor human factors design adding
to your misery.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dual HSI/CDI wiring question |
Can the analog GPS/Nav/ILS output from the GNS430 be spliced to drive a
HSI(pilot side) and a separate CDI(Co-Pilot side) at the same time?
Thanks,
ERic--
RV-10, N104EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Taxi lights wig wag |
>
>
>I had a problem today that I cannot solve.
>I hooked up the landing and taxi lights through a SSF1 flasher
>according to one of Bobs diagrams
>The system uses 2 2-10 switches with middle position for wig wag.
>The lights are Duckworth 100 watt with the wire from the lamps going
>to ground on the last rib along with the grounds for the nav lights
>Connected a battery to the main buss and forest of grounds.
Don't understand this. Have you grounded lamp fixtures to
the airframe locally . . . and then added another wire
from vicinity of lamps to the forest of tabs ground block
too? You need only one ground. Either from each accessory
to the firewall ground block -OR- local grounds to an all
metal airframe but not both.
>The landing light works but the taxi light fuse (7.5A) blew and the
>flasher did not work
>I removed the wires from the flasher and again the landing light
>worked and the taxi light fuse blew.
Fuses blow because of failure of some pieced of equipment
on the protected line (rare) or some wiring fault that has
produced a hard ground. In this case, the later condition
is probable . . .
>I reversed the wires at the taxi light with the light filament wire
>now going to the switch and the light housing wire going to ground.
>The reversed filament wire was connected the the switch wire with a
>clip wire and the ground wire was connected to gnd point without the
>nav ground.
>Everything worked- Taxi-Landing light and wig-wag
Yup, the fixture appears to have an internal ground connection
to one of the lamp terminals. The wire coming from the
lamp housing should go to local ground only. The free filament
wire now goes to the switch.
>I then connected the wires for final connection using knife splices
>and a ring terminal for the ground.
>Hooked the battery back up and nothing works not even the landing
>light. The fuses are not blown, the panel instruments and nav lights
>work.
>The flasher buzzes when the landing light is off and the Taxi light
>switch moves through the middle position.
>
>The only difference was hooking the nav ground back up at the same
>time. I don't have enough knowledge to know if this could cause the
>problem.
Assuming your switches are properly identified for
terminal connections (see Note 15 on page Z-9) then
the only thing that could prevent this system from working
as advertised is a wiring error. If your fixtures have
internal grounds, you need to make sure that same lead
goes to local ground . . . this should stop the fuse
blowing thing. I believe that flasher doesn't like to
be loaded on one output terminal only. BOTH switches need
to be in WW (mid position) for the flasher to function
as designed.
I think you have one or more wiring errors.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Fultz" <dfultz7(at)earthlink.net> |
Can a Cessna flap switch be used instead of the Ray Allan switch for a trim
servo??? If so does someone have a wiring diagram?? Thanks Dale
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Connecting Shieled Wires |
>
>At 03:29 7/15/2007, you wrote:
>>I'm looking for information about connecting two shielded wires together.
>>
>>Example inputs from other sources to a PMA 8000 audio panel:
>>Should the shields be butt spliced along with the other wires into a one big
>>mess?
>>Should all wires and shields be connected with Sub D connectors?
>>Should the shields be left cut and unattached?
>>Are there other methods?
>
>Without a bit more information, this can have a number of solutions, but I
>believe one can safely say regarding microphone lines;
>
>They should be one continuous run from the microphone source, or jack, to
>the input of the amplifier. This does not preclude intermediate
>connectors and cable segments, but the shield should remain connected to
>itself throughout the length, and should not have connections to other
>shields or the airframe except at a single point, the input to the
>amplifier at the audio panel/intercom.
>
>A shield cut and unattached at either end is no longer a shield.
Not quite true. Shields should be terminated as shown in
the installation wiring diagrams. Sometimes one end only is
connected, sometimes both ends. Follow directions. The only
time a shield ceases to function as intended is when BOTH
ends are floating.
If a shielded line needs to be taken through a
connector, give the shield it's own pin. I.e., a
shielded, twisted trio of wires takes 4 pins to
transition a connector.
Don't struggle to bring shields "up tight" against
the back of a connector housing. Exposing 2-3 inches
of "protected" conductors on a connector installation
is no big deal. Make all your shield terminations outside
the connector backshell so that only individual strands
of wire pass through the strain relief and into the
connector.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | jumping on the big iron bird again. |
Will be off-list for the rest to today thru Wednesday
this week. I'll leave things in the capable hands of
others who have demonstrated their skills as teachers
. . . and others who have yet to discover that they
have the gift too.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
>
>Can a Cessna flap switch be used instead of the Ray Allan switch for a
>trim servo??? If so does someone have a wiring diagram?? Thanks Dale
>-----
Cessna has lots of flap switches. One of them may be
what you're looking for but you can make one really easy
too. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/Flap_Switch.jpg
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
>
>Can a Cessna flap switch be used instead of the Ray Allan switch for a
>trim servo??? If so does someone have a wiring diagram?? Thanks Dale
>-----
Cessna has lots of flap switches. One of them may be
what you're looking for but you can make one really easy
too. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/Flap_Switch.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/FLAPS1.JPG
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/FLAPS2.JPG
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/FLAPS3.JPG
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Switches/Toggle_Shaft.jpg
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Connecting Shieled Wires |
| From: | Ron Quillin <rjquillin(at)gmail.com> |
At 07:50 7/16/2007, you wrote:
My poor wording:
"unattached at either end" = not connected at either end.
I think we totally agree.
Ron.
>>A shield cut and unattached at either end is no longer a shield.
>
> Not quite true. Shields should be terminated as shown in
> the installation wiring diagrams. Sometimes one end only is
> connected, sometimes both ends. Follow directions. The only
> time a shield ceases to function as intended is when BOTH
> ends are floating.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | switching from Z-11 to Z-13 |
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael T. Ice
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 10:04 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: switching from Z-11 to Z-13
Hello,
I have already wired my aircraft with the Z-11 schematic. But now I am switching
to E-mags ( 1 P-Mag & 1 E-mag) and need to rewire towards the Z-13 schematic.
My questions are:
Can the 2-10 switch be used as the Dc Power master switch instead of the 2-3.
I see in the Z-13 the 5 A Fld Alt is on the other side of the switch. Why? Can
I just leave the 2-10 in place as wired in the Z-11 and will it work for the 2-3
in the Z-13?
I see the 2-10 switches in the Z-11 that were used for mag switches are now 2-5
in the Z-13. Is there any way to use the 2-10's, or are the 2-5's so different
that I have to use them?
Or should I just order the new switches from B&C and wire them in like the Z-13?
I also see that the mags in the Z-11 required shielded wire. It looks like the
E-Mags don't require shielded wire. Is that correct? Why?
Thank you,
Mike Ice
Anchorage, Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Fultz" <dfultz7(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Bob,, Now would you have a wiring diagram to wire the switch up ,,
instead of using the rocker switch that came with the servo??? Thanks Dale
----- Original Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Abrahamson <dave(at)abrahamson.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430 transmitter problem |
I use blade-type ATO fuses and by simply removing the com circuit's
fuse and replacing it with a new one, the problem went away. The one
I removed ohmed out like all the others, so I suspect it was perhaps
that the fuse had dislodged itself slightly in the fuse
block. Checking the most accessible and simplest issue seems to have worked.
Thanks for all the feedbacks. David
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best contactor reliability -- mechanical, solid |
state, or ma
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I just ran across these. They should do. They are a little more expensive than
the GX-11 or the Blue Sea 9012 (Kilovac EV200aaana). Frankly I can't see an advantage
unless you find them on sale.
http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en_g9ea_ec.pdf
Interesting note on coil suppressor from the Omron data sheet:
They caution that a varistor or a Zener plus diode should be used as a protective
circuit for the coil. "Using a diode alone will reduce the switching characteristics."
Never use diodes for this purpose on relays, especially contactors.
"What the West really has to offer is honesty. Somehow, in the midst of their horrid
history, the best among the Gaijin learned a wonderful lesson. They learned
to distrust themselves, to doubt even what they were taught to believe or
what their egos make them yearn to see. To know that even truth must be scrutinized,
it was a great discovery.... "
-- David Brin, "Dr. Pak's Preschool"
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=124190#124190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin GA 27c low profile GPS Antena Cable extension? |
I have a Garmin GA 27c low profile GPS Antenna [ Part number 010-10052-05
]and I need to extend the antenna lead.
Has any one done this before and how did it work out? What did you use?
Per the box it has:
8 feet of RG174 cable with MCX connector
I would like to use rg-400 but do not know how to connect them properly, the
GPS does use the small MCX connector, anybody have a source for that? plus I
would need a disconnect at the wing root.
Thanks in advance
Jeff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Creek" <mwcreek(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GTX327 power switching |
I'm having the same problem as Sam as detailed in his email below. Does
anyone have a solution to this? I've tried adjusting contrast/brightness
with no affect.
Thanks,
Mike Creek
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of phd1993
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:59 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: GTX327 power switching
I have been bench/panel testing my GTX327 during cable assembly prior to
final installation in my panel and I can confirm the Pin 1 / Pin 15
configurations.
Now my question - if I have power supplied via Pin 15 and ground on Pin 25
WITHOUT connecting either the transponder antenna or the altitude encoder
what should the GTX327 display at power on? How about power on while
holding down the FUNC button. All I am getting is the "backpanel"
illuminated with no other display items. Is this proper? Or do I need to
connect either the antenna, the altitude encoder, or both before I start
seeing any items displayed on the panel?
Feedback appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam H.
Zenith 701 kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74927#74927
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
Z-19 doesn't appear to be on my Aeroelectric CD, and I can't find it online.
Would anyone happen to have a close approximation in DXF format that
they'd like to share?
DWG appears to be a more advanced file format with the ability to add 3D
information. Most of the lower rung/open source CAD programs don't like
it (maybe because the company added closed, proprietary extensions that
can't be read without paying Autodesk a royalty). I'm using Kubuntu,
and Wine isn't working well with the Windows programs on the CD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | KMD 150 Install manual needed |
I need an install manual for my KMD 150. Thanks in advance,
Jim Bowen
_________________________________________________________________
http://liveearth.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: KMD 150 Install manual needed |
JAMES BOWEN wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JAMES BOWEN"
>
> I need an install manual for my KMD 150. Thanks in advance.
> Jim Bowen
I thought about scanning my copy and sending it to you, then thought
"Hmmmm, wonder what Google says?" (I've tried before to find it soft
copy on the web, but never had any luck.)
Both the installation manual and pilot's guide are here:
http://www.seaerospace.com/king/kmd150.htm
Steve
(now with a soft copy IM to back up my hard copy!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D Wysong <hdwysong(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: best contactor reliability -- mechanical, solid,state, |
or manual?
The system is 25 ADC (worst case) at 28 VDC with a nominal
load of about 17 ADC.
The spec environment (vibe, temp) is similar to the Summer
cockpit of my C150 with a prop that needs to be dynamically
balanced. Worse than a lab bench but better than under the
hood of a Hummer. All components are rated for -40 C to +85
C (operating) thus far.
Unfortunately, there are no "non-critical" components in the
system so ANY power loss is bad news.
Again, I'm trying to weigh the pros/cons of mechanical,
solid-state, or manual master battery contactors for this
application. I considered using parallel contactors (as
suggested here) to avoid the single point contactor failure
but found myself staring down the slippery slope of
increased parts count and complexity.
Perhaps the "best" answer is a manual contactor with dual
contacts (one of those big 1/2/Both switches). ???
Any guidance (including "shut up, quit worrying, and use the
darn can!") will be appreciated. :-)
D
--------------------
>>> I have a remotely operated application where the loss of the master
>>> battery contactor will result in the loss of data/money/time (...
>>> and dignity!). My baseline design resembles a "Z" diagram (thanks
>>> Bob!) and I planned to use a mechanical, continuous duty contactor
>>> like the S-701 from B&C. However, a buddy of mine recently
>>> experienced a contactor failure in flight and it caused me to
>>> experience a few "What If!?" nightmares. I'm back to reconsidering
>>> my original decision...
>
> Help us with a bit more information about your application.
> What kind of vehicle? What kind of environment? What's the
> energy requirement to maintain data in vulnerable systems.
> It's often much easier to arrange for brownout and/or momentary
> power loss for a few items than to back-up the whole system.
> Finally, it's almost always better to have a plan-a/plan-b
> modus operandi than to scratch around for "more reliable"
> hardware. EVERYTHING will break at some point in time.
>
> Give us a rundown of your equipment that must stay awake
> and what the power requirements are.
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KMD 150 Install manual needed |
| From: | "N395V" <airboss(at)excaliburaviation.com> |
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=124315#124315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I think what you need is what I sell lots of--the True Servo Conversion for MAC/RACs.
TSCMR. This is a teeny module that converts the external position signal
that you get from a voltage divider potentiometer or even a bank of push buttons
to control a MAC or RAC trim box.
See: http://tinyurl.com/2qo222
These are the parts they left out of the trim box that would have made it a servo.
This also solves the problem of how to connect all those tiny trim box wires.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=124343#124343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Creek" <mwcreek(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GTX327 power switching |
Found out my problem was low input power voltage below 10. With proper
voltage, everything works fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel
Creek
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 8:22 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: GTX327 power switching
I'm having the same problem as Sam as detailed in his email below. Does
anyone have a solution to this? I've tried adjusting contrast/brightness
with no affect.
Thanks,
Mike Creek
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of phd1993
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:59 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: GTX327 power switching
I have been bench/panel testing my GTX327 during cable assembly prior to
final installation in my panel and I can confirm the Pin 1 / Pin 15
configurations.
Now my question - if I have power supplied via Pin 15 and ground on Pin 25
WITHOUT connecting either the transponder antenna or the altitude encoder
what should the GTX327 display at power on? How about power on while
holding down the FUNC button. All I am getting is the "backpanel"
illuminated with no other display items. Is this proper? Or do I need to
connect either the antenna, the altitude encoder, or both before I start
seeing any items displayed on the panel?
Feedback appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam H.
Zenith 701 kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74927#74927
________________________________________________________________________________
Ernest,
Attached is a dxf file of the original Z19. If you want the rear battery
option let me know and I will send it to you.
Paul LeDoux
Sharpsburg, Ga.
RV-8 in progress
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Pengilly" <peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GTX327 power switching |
Guys,
I made myself a 12v power supply for the garage/hangar from an old
computer power supply to get over the problem of low voltage problems.
Needs some internal surgery to install an on-off switch (5 mins on
Google provided the answer as most power supplies now switch off on a
signal from the mother board). Runs for ever, stabilized voltage (that I
believe can be tweaked up to 13 or 14v, but I haven't found out how) and
can deliver up to about 20A. Means that I don't have to charge a battery
all the time and I can buy a fresh PC680 just before I'm ready to go
flying.
Peter
RV-6A, DR-107 & RV-7 (building)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Michel Creek
Sent: 17 July 2007 16:14
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: GTX327 power switching
Found out my problem was low input power voltage below 10. With proper
voltage, everything works fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Michel
Creek
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 8:22 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: GTX327 power switching
I'm having the same problem as Sam as detailed in his email below. Does
anyone have a solution to this? I've tried adjusting
contrast/brightness
with no affect.
Thanks,
Mike Creek
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
phd1993
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:59 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: GTX327 power switching
I have been bench/panel testing my GTX327 during cable assembly prior to
final installation in my panel and I can confirm the Pin 1 / Pin 15
configurations.
Now my question - if I have power supplied via Pin 15 and ground on Pin
25
WITHOUT connecting either the transponder antenna or the altitude
encoder
what should the GTX327 display at power on? How about power on while
holding down the FUNC button. All I am getting is the "backpanel"
illuminated with no other display items. Is this proper? Or do I need
to
connect either the antenna, the altitude encoder, or both before I start
seeing any items displayed on the panel?
Feedback appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam H.
Zenith 701 kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74927#74927
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low transmit volume on Valcom 760 |
| From: | "privatepilot03" <cjstenson(at)ameritech.net> |
I couldn't sign up to the forums with my avidflyerss screen name for some reason,
so I created this one.
Anyway, I tried adjusting the gains on both the radio and headset with little if
any improvement.
At this point, I'm leaving everything as is until I get the plane done and actually
try it at the airport and in the air. Maybe it's fine, I don't know, but
it sure seems quiet to me.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=124381#124381
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
PSILeD(at)aol.com wrote:
> Ernest,
>
> Attached is a dxf file of the original Z19. If you want the rear
> battery option let me know and I will send it to you.
>
> Paul LeDoux
> Sharpsburg, Ga.
> RV-8 in progress
>
>
> Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com
> <http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982>.
I'm good now (heh, just my opinion).
I've been able to load the file into QCad and do some editing. I also
found dwg2dxf. There was only an RPM, but I used alien to convert it to
a deb file (Linux file installation formats). "dpkg -i" installed the
deb without any other arguments. So I'm cooking with gas now. Thanks,
guys.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merlin" <phil.merlin(at)skynet.be> |
I'm going to use Aeroelectric suggestion :-) The problem is finding the
switch. The type of the one received with the Van's kit is as hard to toggle
as a contactor !
The genuine Cessna switch is awfully expensive !!!
Philippe
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Dale
Fultz
Envoy : lundi 16 juillet 2007 15:47
: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : AeroElectric-List: Flap switch
-->
Can a Cessna flap switch be used instead of the Ray Allan switch for a trim
servo??? If so does someone have a wiring diagram?? Thanks Dale
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Fultz" <dfultz7(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a genuine Cessna 150 switch. I just need to find out if it can be
wired into the system instead of using the supplied switch from Ray Allen
that was with the servo..
----- Original Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " Peter Laurence" <Dr.Laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
Eric the subject is a flap motor not a MAC servo.
Peter Laurence
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 10:35 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Flap switch
>
>
> I think what you need is what I sell lots of--the True Servo Conversion
> for MAC/RACs. TSCMR. This is a teeny module that converts the external
> position signal that you get from a voltage divider potentiometer or even
> a bank of push buttons to control a MAC or RAC trim box.
>
> See: http://tinyurl.com/2qo222
>
> These are the parts they left out of the trim box that would have made it
> a servo. This also solves the problem of how to connect all those tiny
> trim box wires.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones(at)charter.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=124343#124343
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Peter -
If I understand the descriptions...
Eric's TSCMR, when combined with RAC's position sensor (attached to the
flap mechanism), can be configured to approximate the Cessna-style
set-forget flap switch.
************************
Eric the subject is a flap motor not a MAC servo.
Peter Laurence
>
> I think what you need is what I sell lots of--the True Servo
Conversion
> for MAC/RACs. TSCMR. This is a teeny module that converts the external
> position signal that you get from a voltage divider potentiometer or
even
> a bank of push buttons to control a MAC or RAC trim box.
>
> See: http://tinyurl.com/2qo222
>
> These are the parts they left out of the trim box that would have made
it
> a servo. This also solves the problem of how to connect all those tiny
> trim box wires.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones(at)charter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
>
>I have a genuine Cessna 150 switch. I just need to find out if it can
>be wired into the system instead of using the supplied switch from Ray
>Allen that was with the servo..
Cessna had a LOT of different flap controls. Need a photo,
p/n, perhaps a schematic of the system it came out of.
Baring that detail of data, you can send me the switch
and I'll deduce its suitability to task.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AUDIO ISOLATION AMP PC BOARD |
Bob,
I ordered a PC board on July 6 and received a email confirmation that I
would be getting an email with instructions on how to make payment. Nothing yet.
Have tried to reach you via phone, email and email via your web site.
Do you still supply the boards?
Regards,
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
RV-4 Finishing Kit
815-262-3153
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AUDIO ISOLATION AMP PC BOARD |
>Bob,
>
>I ordered a PC board on July 6 and received a email confirmation that I
>would be getting an email with instructions on how to make
>payment. Nothing yet. Have tried to reach you via phone, email and email
>via your web site.
>
>Do you still supply the boards?
>
>Regards,
>
>Wally Hunt
>Rockford, IL
Yessir! Sorry about the delay. We've been out of town a lot
and got behind on order fulfillment. Your board goes out today
and I've sent you a Paypal invoice.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Burnaby" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
> Eric's TSCMR, when combined with RAC's position sensor (attached to
the
> flap mechanism), can be configured to approximate the
Cessna-style
> set-forget flap switch. By the time one buys the separate
products and wires them together, wouldn't it just be a lot simpler and
probably cheaper to just buy an FPS-Plus-nt
(http://www.aircraftextras.com/ ) for $200 and plug and play?john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
I just want to comment on excellent service by Eric Jones of Perilhelion
Design. I ordered 3 switch guards last Sunday, got notice of shipping the same
day (!) and received same Wednesday... These are the CNC-machined ones and
are bee-yoo-tiful!! Thanks Eric, may you live long and prosper!!
Jerry Cochran
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McMahon" <blackoaks(at)gmail.com> |
Is anybody on the list using the Watson AHRS with their Chelton/Sierra
Flight Systems EFIS?
I have a Chelton EFIS-SV and Watson but have not installed it yet.
I'd be interested in your comments on the Watson unit? Are you still using
it or have you upgraded to Crossbow or Pinpoint?
Many thanks in advance.....
--
John McMahon
Lancair Super ES, S/N 170, N9637M (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | VOR whiskers antenna balun available |
Some months ago I fabricated a VOR antenna balun for
"whiskers" so that I could illustrate an article
on the topic which I published at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication.html
This device is surplus to me and I'd like to sell
it. First direct e-mail to me with a $20.00 offer +
$2.00 postage gets it.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gordon or marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
Will you be at Oshkosh? If so, how can I find you?
Gordon Comfort
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
Yes. Thursday through Sunday. I'm doing two presentations.
One on Thursday afternoon and one on Friday night. My cell
phone is (316) 209-7528. Looking forward to seeing you guys
again!
Bob . . .
>
>Will you be at Oshkosh? If so, how can I find you?
>
>Gordon Comfort
>
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>
>
>incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
MessageYup, driving over on Tuesday staying until Sat. or Sun. I will
probably be at Van's at 10:00 AM each day.
Looking forward to seeing you there.
Dick S
----- Original Message -----
From: gordon or marge
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 5:09 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE:Oshkosh
Will you be at Oshkosh? If so, how can I find you?
Gordon Comfort
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin GA 27c low profile GPS Antena Cable extension? |
re-posting since nobody has replied....
I have a Garmin GA 27c low profile GPS Antenna [ Part number 010-10052-05
]and I need to extend the antenna lead.
Has any one done this before and how did it work out? What did you use?
Per the box it has:
8 feet of RG174 cable with MCX connector
I would like to use rg-400 but do not know how to connect them properly, the
GPS does use the small MCX connector, anybody have a source for that? plus I
would need a disconnect at the wing root.
Thanks in advance
Jeff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Perihelion Power Protector Proposal |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I talk to many builders who are particularly concerned about frying their expensive
avionics and glass panels. These parts are typically 1/3 of the airplane
cost.
Planning the wiring of a small aircraft involves installing systems to safeguard
the buses against failure of the alternator. Either an internally regulated
alternator or its more adaptable brother with an external regulator still has
the potential problem of a runaway condition, as well as a short circuit of the
main battery to alternator B-lead, and frequent load dump OV conditions.
A solution is herein proposed
Linear Technology has introduced a clever device, the LT4356-1 Overvoltage Protection
Regulator and Inrush Limiter to address all these worries. Not only thatthey
list Automotive/Avionic Surge Protection is one of its chief applications.
The LTC approach takes the high voltage from a load dump or failed alternator and
REGULATES it while the situation is being tamed. The IC package is 3mm X 4mm
and drives a big N-MOSFET that does the heavy work of regulating the voltage.
So what happens? Normally the alternator current is carried by the fully on N-MOSFET.
Assume the current is 50A, and the Rds(on) is 0.012 ohms. The dissipation
would be only 30W. This is easy to handle with a reasonable heat sink.
Assume the alternator and/or the regulator goes cuckoo. This could happen if the
alternator field winding shorts to the B-lead output or the sense lead in the
regulator opens, or other untoward goings-on. The alternator output goes into
an upward voltage spiral. This voltage is not unlimited, especially if there
is a load on it, but could be 80 VDC.
Now the LT4356-1 REGULATES the output via the big N-MOSFET on a heat sink. The
aircraft buses never sees more than 14.5 Volts (or whatever is desired). This
is true for the short time (500 mS) load dumps, and it will regulate a runaway
alternator for a time determined by whatever the N-MOSFET and heat sink can dissipate.
The LT4356-1 has a timer circuit to protect the N-MOSFET. If the time expires and
the stress continues, the fault warning signals an impending power-down and
the N-MOSFET shuts off the B-line.
Additionally, some models of the LT4356-1 have a spare amplifier/comparator that
can be used for any purpose (not shown here). It operates from 4 to 80 VDC,
and withstands 30V and up to 100V. A series low voltage P-MOSFET or a Schottky
diode can be added to protect against a shorted alternator that would draw reverse
current. The device has built-in protection again high current shorts of
the B-Line to the battery.
The drawing shows a basic form. A few additional parts are necessary. However,
consider the parts that WOULDNT be necessary:
The B-Line contactor,
The OV monitor,
The load dump preventer,
The B-Line fuse,
The alternator switch.
No crow bar or linear over voltage switch.
I dont have current plans to market this but will build one for myself.
Discussion is invited.
See attachment for a pdf version of this note with drawing.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=124938#124938
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/power_protector_rev_a_851.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Perihelion Power Protector Proposal |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
Interesting..
Kind of a regulator on a regulator..
Do you see that the addition of this circuitry will meaningfully
negatively impact the stability of the existing regulator? Existing
alternator systems are filtered by a low impedance connection to the
battery. It seems that it might be good to design the set point of this
regulator quite a bit higher than the primary - as a means of limiting
interaction between the systems.
Regards,
Matt-
>
>
> I talk to many builders who are particularly concerned about frying their
> expensive avionics and glass panels. These parts are typically 1/3 of the
> airplane cost.
>
> Planning the wiring of a small aircraft involves installing systems to
> safeguard the buses against failure of the alternator. Either an
> internally regulated alternator or its more adaptable brother with an
> external regulator still has the potential problem of a runaway condition,
> as well as a short circuit of the main battery to alternator B-lead, and
> frequent load dump OV conditions.
>
> A solution is herein proposed
>
> Linear Technology has introduced a clever device, the LT4356-1 Overvoltage
> Protection Regulator and Inrush Limiter to address all these worries. Not
> only thatthey list Automotive/Avionic Surge Protection is one of
> its chief applications.
>
> The LTC approach takes the high voltage from a load dump or failed
> alternator and REGULATES it while the situation is being tamed. The IC
> package is 3mm X 4mm and drives a big N-MOSFET that does the heavy work of
> regulating the voltage.
>
> So what happens? Normally the alternator current is carried by the fully
> on N-MOSFET. Assume the current is 50A, and the Rds(on) is 0.012 ohms. The
> dissipation would be only 30W. This is easy to handle with a reasonable
> heat sink.
>
> Assume the alternator and/or the regulator goes cuckoo. This could happen
> if the alternator field winding shorts to the B-lead output or the sense
> lead in the regulator opens, or other untoward goings-on. The alternator
> output goes into an upward voltage spiral. This voltage is not unlimited,
> especially if there is a load on it, but could be 80 VDC.
>
> Now the LT4356-1 REGULATES the output via the big N-MOSFET on a heat sink.
> The aircraft buses never sees more than 14.5 Volts (or whatever is
> desired). This is true for the short time (500 mS) load dumps, and it will
> regulate a runaway alternator for a time determined by whatever the
> N-MOSFET and heat sink can dissipate.
>
> The LT4356-1 has a timer circuit to protect the N-MOSFET. If the time
> expires and the stress continues, the fault warning signals an impending
> power-down and the N-MOSFET shuts off the B-line.
>
> Additionally, some models of the LT4356-1 have a spare
> amplifier/comparator that can be used for any purpose (not shown here). It
> operates from 4 to 80 VDC, and withstands 30V and up to 100V. A series
> low voltage P-MOSFET or a Schottky diode can be added to protect against a
> shorted alternator that would draw reverse current. The device has
> built-in protection again high current shorts of the B-Line to the
> battery.
>
> The drawing shows a basic form. A few additional parts are necessary.
> However, consider the parts that WOULDNT be necessary:
>
> The B-Line contactor,
> The OV monitor,
> The load dump preventer,
> The B-Line fuse,
> The alternator switch.
>
> No crow bar or linear over voltage switch.
>
> I dont have current plans to market this but will build one for myself.
>
> Discussion is invited.
>
> See attachment for a pdf version of this note with drawing.
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones(at)charter.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=124938#124938
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/power_protector_rev_a_851.pdf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Perihelion Power Protector Proposal |
Eric M. Jones wrote:
>
> I talk to many builders who are particularly concerned about frying their expensive
avionics and glass panels. These parts are typically 1/3 of the airplane
cost.
>
> Planning the wiring of a small aircraft involves installing systems to safeguard
the buses against failure of the alternator. Either an internally regulated
alternator or its more adaptable brother with an external regulator still has
the potential problem of a runaway condition, as well as a short circuit of
the main battery to alternator B-lead, and frequent load dump OV conditions.
>
> A solution is herein proposed
>
> Now the LT4356-1 REGULATES the output via the big N-MOSFET on a heat sink. The
aircraft buses never sees more than 14.5 Volts (or whatever is desired). This
is true for the short time (500 mS) load dumps, and it will regulate a runaway
alternator for a time determined by whatever the N-MOSFET and heat sink can
dissipate.
>
> The LT4356-1 has a timer circuit to protect the N-MOSFET. If the time expires
and the stress continues, the fault warning signals an impending power-down and
the N-MOSFET shuts off the B-line.
>
I'm confused by this part. It'll regulate indefinitely (if the load is
low enough), but it has a timer to turn off the N-MOSFET.
1) Is the timer based on power? For example, it will run indefinitely
with a 20A load, ten minutes with a 30A load, but one thirty seconds
with a 40A load? Could it be set to drive multiple N-MOSFET for
increased power handling.
2) Is the timer configurable, so that I could provide active cooling and
set it to run indefinitely regardless of the load?
3) Does it reset /is it resettable after a cool-off period? Yeah, the
alternator is on the fritz, but this device will let it run for short
periods to insure the plane make it all the way to the crash site.
4) Assuming appropriate answers to the above, what would be the
impediment to using this device as the primary regulator? It looks like
an extremely simple, compact solution, with the absolute simplest
interface possible.
It looks like a very promising solution at first glance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Perihelion Power Protector Proposal |
Eric M. Jones wrote:
>
> I talk to many builders who are particularly concerned about frying their expensive
avionics and glass panels. These parts are typically 1/3 of the airplane
cost.
>
> Planning the wiring of a small aircraft involves installing systems to safeguard
the buses against failure of the alternator. Either an internally regulated
alternator or its more adaptable brother with an external regulator still has
the potential problem of a runaway condition, as well as a short circuit of
the main battery to alternator B-lead, and frequent load dump OV conditions.
>
> A solution is herein proposed
>
> Linear Technology has introduced a clever device, the LT4356-1 Overvoltage Protection
Regulator and Inrush Limiter to address all these worries. Not only thatthey
list Automotive/Avionic Surge Protection is one of its chief applications.
>
>
After my previous email, I found the data sheet.
http://www.linear.com/pc/productDetail.jsp?navId=H0,C1,C1003,C1006,C1065,P38400#simulateSection
The timer is configurable. They have way to order samples, and an
LTSpice setup to run simulations with.
Dang-it!! Another project! 8*)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GA 27c low profile GPS Antena Cable extension? |
Jeffrey W. Skiba wrote:
>
> re-posting since nobody has replied....
>
> I have a Garmin GA 27c low profile GPS Antenna [ Part number 010-10052-05
> ]and I need to extend the antenna lead.
>
> Has any one done this before and how did it work out? What did you use?
>
> Per the box it has:
>
> 8 feet of RG174 cable with MCX connector
>
>
> I would like to use rg-400 but do not know how to connect them properly, the
> GPS does use the small MCX connector, anybody have a source for that? plus I
> would need a disconnect at the wing root.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jeff.
Google is your friend.
http://www.google.com/search?num &hl=en&q=mcx+extension+cable+&btnG=Search
to:
http://www.google.com/products?q=mcx+extension+cable+&num &hl=en&um=1&sa=X&oi=froogle&ct=title
1 minute, request to reply (on dialup & one-finger typing while eating
supper)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Adams" <asav8tor(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Water in Master switch |
Vans old 35 amp Honda alt
External Regulator
Split "Cessna" type master switch
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
During rainy weather canopy was opened and water got on the master switch.
Tried to mop it up but looked like some went down in the switch.
Next day started the aircraft and no amps charging after engine start.
Normal bus voltage with engine running is 14.2v now showing 12.2 ( no alt
power )
Shut down and blew compressed air into master switch.
Restarted amps charging and normal bus voltage 14.2 noted.
Flew a series of orientation flights. (kids summer camp) After the 6th
flight noticed a hum/beat sound in the radio/intercom. Bus voltage was
15.8v
Shut off alt on split master, voltage went down to 12.6v then turned alt
switch back on voltage returned to normal 14.2 hum/beat went away.
After engine start the higher voltage was noted several times but could be
fixed by turning the alt switch off then back on. It would then stay at the
normal 14.2v for the rest of the flight.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Should I:
(1) Replace the Master switch and recheck.
(2) Replace the Master switch and Voltage Regulator
(3) Replace the alt with a new plane-power 60amp int reg with overvoltage
protection
I don't want smoke in the cockpit. If the Voltage regulator was damaged I
don't want to start the engine again on the old unit.
Thanks in advance guys,
Mike
_________________________________________________________________
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
My "el cheapo" DG quit working about ten minutes into my first
flight. The 1 Amp fuse blown that protected the DG and its wiring was
blown. The DG was still dead after replacing the fuse and the fuse
didn't blow again. I pulled the DG and sent it back to its
manufacturer. They reported that a circuit board was fried from a
high voltage power surge. I say that is BS. No other fuses were blown
and there are no other indications of a power surge. My bird is all
electric, externally regulated, with over voltage protection. The OV
CB has never opened.
It is my opinion that the el cheapo circuit board shorted out on its
own, causing the fuse to blow.
Any comments?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jedwood(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Avionics master switch/relay |
I am wanting to use an avionics master switch or relay with my
electrical system. My question is: Do I need to put all of my avionics
on a separate bus then control the power to that bus by the avionics
master? Also,what if I want just a portion of my avionics on my
endurance bus? I have looked at all of the Z figures and cannot find an
example.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ed
RV-7
About to hang the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics master switch/relay |
Ed,
Go to the archive search engine and type in avionics master switch. Lots of info.
It may change your mind.
If not do it your way and put in an avionics master switch and a separate bus for
avionics.
If you decide to go with out an avionics master than just put what you "need" to
successfully land after the "dark and stormy night" episode on the endurance
bus and put the rest on your main bus.
For an example take a look at the Z-11 schematic. Notice the way the main and endurance
buses are laid out.
Mike Ice
Hanging the motor
----- Original Message -----
From: jedwood(at)earthlink.net
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 6:57 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics master switch/relay
I am wanting to use an avionics master switch or relay with my electrical system.
My question is: Do I need to put all of my avionics on a separate bus then
control the power to that bus by the avionics master? Also,what if I want just
a portion of my avionics on my endurance bus? I have looked at all of the
Z figures and cannot find an example.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ed
RV-7
About to hang the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Marsha" <docyukon(at)ptcnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Water in Master switch |
Change master sw. Regulator side of switch is creating a voltage drop,
and telling regulator to increase output voltage. 99.9% sure it will cure
your problem of over voltage Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Adams" <asav8tor(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 1:37 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Water in Master switch
>
>
> Vans old 35 amp Honda alt
>
> External Regulator
>
> Split "Cessna" type master switch
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> During rainy weather canopy was opened and water got on the master switch.
> Tried to mop it up but looked like some went down in the switch.
>
> Next day started the aircraft and no amps charging after engine start.
> Normal bus voltage with engine running is 14.2v now showing 12.2 ( no alt
> power )
>
> Shut down and blew compressed air into master switch.
>
> Restarted amps charging and normal bus voltage 14.2 noted.
>
> Flew a series of orientation flights. (kids summer camp) After the 6th
> flight noticed a hum/beat sound in the radio/intercom. Bus voltage was
> 15.8v
>
> Shut off alt on split master, voltage went down to 12.6v then turned alt
> switch back on voltage returned to normal 14.2 hum/beat went away.
>
> After engine start the higher voltage was noted several times but could be
> fixed by turning the alt switch off then back on. It would then stay at
> the normal 14.2v for the rest of the flight.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Should I:
>
> (1) Replace the Master switch and recheck.
>
> (2) Replace the Master switch and Voltage Regulator
>
> (3) Replace the alt with a new plane-power 60amp int reg with overvoltage
> protection
>
> I don't want smoke in the cockpit. If the Voltage regulator was damaged I
> don't want to start the engine again on the old unit.
>
> Thanks in advance guys,
>
> Mike
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Adams" <asav8tor(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water in Master switch |
New switch installed. All is good. Rock steady again at 14.2v
Took the old switch apart. Looked like a whole lot of junk in there. AL
dust and junk from when the acft was built? It was moist and almost pastey.
Thanks,
Mike
_________________________________________________________________
http://newlivehotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Water in Master switch |
Hey Mike, If this is about your RV-4 I think you should just give up and
consider just giving it to me.
;>)
Jim Bowen -
Hope ya get it
figured out.
>From: "Mike Adams" <asav8tor(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>To: AeroElectric-List(at)matronics.com, asav8tor(at)hotmail.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Water in Master switch
>Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 23:37:18 -0700
>
>
>
>Vans old 35 amp Honda alt
>
>External Regulator
>
>Split "Cessna" type master switch
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>During rainy weather canopy was opened and water got on the master switch.
>Tried to mop it up but looked like some went down in the switch.
>
>Next day started the aircraft and no amps charging after engine start.
>Normal bus voltage with engine running is 14.2v now showing 12.2 ( no alt
>power )
>
>Shut down and blew compressed air into master switch.
>
>Restarted amps charging and normal bus voltage 14.2 noted.
>
>Flew a series of orientation flights. (kids summer camp) After the 6th
>flight noticed a hum/beat sound in the radio/intercom. Bus voltage was
>15.8v
>
>Shut off alt on split master, voltage went down to 12.6v then turned alt
>switch back on voltage returned to normal 14.2 hum/beat went away.
>
>After engine start the higher voltage was noted several times but could be
>fixed by turning the alt switch off then back on. It would then stay at
>the normal 14.2v for the rest of the flight.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Should I:
>
>(1) Replace the Master switch and recheck.
>
>(2) Replace the Master switch and Voltage Regulator
>
>(3) Replace the alt with a new plane-power 60amp int reg with overvoltage
>protection
>
>I don't want smoke in the cockpit. If the Voltage regulator was damaged I
>don't want to start the engine again on the old unit.
>
>Thanks in advance guys,
>
>Mike
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
http://newlivehotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EGT sensor installation location |
Looking at the 2 attached pics of the left and right side of my engine, what would
be the best place to install the EGT sensors.
Just thought I'd get some input from anyone who might know if there is a best way
to do it.?There are 4 of them for my GRT EIS.
Thanks
Brian
701Builder.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics master switch/relay |
Why not make the endurance bus and the avionics bus one and the same.
On a friends RV7 we are doing this. He has a 60 A B&C alternator and a
20 A B&C standby alternator. The avionics/endurance bus is fed from the
Main Bus through a diode and a S704-1 B&C relay switching circuit.
Additionally, the avionics/endurance bus can be fed from the Battery Bus
through another S704-1 relay switching circuit.
Schematics available on request.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | My iPaq and Anywhere Map is on eBay. |
Morning, everyone...
Being the impulse buyer that I am, I couldn't resist getting the latest
and greatest from
Control Vision. And since it came bundled with Anywhere Map installed,
built in GPS, two mounts and all the other bells and whistles that I
already have with the previous Anywhere Map system I got from them, I
now have two almost identical units.
So, I am selling the older iPaq on eBay, with everything that I got with
it, and more, to hope to offset the cost of the new system by a dollar
or two. Still works perfectly (used it last week) and the database is up
to date.
No reserve, starting at $10, so have a look for all the details ...most
of your questions will be answered by the extensive listing and the
links I've provided there. If you or someone you know is interested,
it'll be selling in 10 days.
You can find it here: http://tinyurl.com/yvsha3
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
Canandaigua, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Semi-Custom Products |
Bob
This may not fit into your philosophy of versatility but FWIW if I were
in the market for the LV/OV control board I would prefer to see the
lights and switch already mounted within the module. Second best would
be a pre-wired remote panel of lights and switch or at least the option
of purchasing those unassembled parts at the same time. I have learned
that it is nice to have all such remote assemblies of switches or lights
easily removeable as a unit for serviceability rather than mounted in
individual holes in the instrument panel. In addition where I've used a
single DB connector on a device for both power and a remote panel, I've
found it difficult to remove the remote panel for service or
modification since the connector is also hardwired to the aircraft.
We have completed 130 flight hours with our Z-14 wired subaru now
without any nuisance OV trips. The only electrical issue is that I
recently purchased a comfortable David Clarke headset and with our
fairly quiet engine, I now hear weak but annoying strobe whine that I
couldn't hear in cruise with other headsets. I have already followed
most of your wiring recommendations so it may take me awhile to solve
this one especially since the strobes operate off a different alternator
and battery as the radio and intercom.
Ken
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Semi-Custom Products
>
>
>I've been working on a line of new products for the
>AeroElectric Connection website that will be unique
>to AEC. We're going to resist being a dealer for other
>folks products.
>
>One project utilizes an ECB and enclosure that has
>features described in these two illustrations:
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/A15_Package.jpg
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/Do-Much_Board_Schematic.pdf
>
>
>The schematic would never have ALL components installed,
>and in some cases, components left of are replaced with
>solid jumpers. However, depending on what parts are installed,
>their values, and what software is installed in the microcontroller,
>we can craft a variety of products with 98% commonality
>of bill of materials.
>
>The first product to be offered under this design and
>marketing philosophy is described at:
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9011/9011-700-1C.pdf
>
>. . . except that it will have a 15-pin connector on it
>instead of a 9-pin.
>
>I'm publishing the schematic for the more technically
>inclined. Perhaps the architecture will suggest an application
>close to your own wishes for a smart black box to do some
>task. If so, let's talk about it and see if my software
>guy can't whip it out in reasonably short order and save
>you a lot of development time to craft a nicely packaged
>electro-whizzy. Or, if you want to do your own byte-pudding
>I could offer you a kit of ECB and enclosure from which
>you could move your project ahead.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
List,
This new product just popped up on the radar. What do you all think, does it
show potential?
Jerry Cochran
Here is the web site for the new Smart Aircraft Management Systems, "SAMS"
_http://smartaircrafhttp://smhttp_ (http://smartaircraftsystems.com/)
Still preliminary and lots of housekeeping and text editing but its
basically complete.
This is a all solid state electrical system with no relays mechanical CB,
fuses, or contactors in the power path from the battery (s) to the end user
equipment, Integrated into this system is a complete fault detection and
warning system that includes relational logic to detect and warn if two or
more monitored conditions exist that alone is not a fault but the specific
combination of conditions will generate a fault. Both Visual and Audible
warnings are available. This fault detection system includes the ability to
have different levels of limit checking and the modules are interconnected
using the automotive type CAN serial bus. This fault system is independent
of the hardwired electrical power system for reliability. With solid state
switches and built in over current protection the result is a simple to wire
electrical system. Its been in work for several years.
Feel free to ask questions.
Paul
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:EGT sensor installation location |
I put mine all about 1.5" down from the exhaust flange. I would angle them
back about 45 deg. I didn't and it's easy to bump then when doing maint.
Jerry Cochran
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EGT sensor installation location
From: ruruny(at)aol.com
Looking at the 2 attached pics of the left and right side of my engine, what
would
be the best place to install the EGT sensors.
Just thought I'd get some input from anyone who might know if there is a
best way
to do it.?There are 4 of them for my GRT EIS.
Thanks
Brian
701Builder.com
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Pengilly" <peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics master switch/relay |
Ed,
If you still want to use an avionics master after reading all Bob has
written you could try using 2 avionics buses, each energized by a relay
both of which are switched by one double pole switch. Put your essential
avionics on one bus and provide that with power direct from the battery
via an emergency switch and diode. If the emergency switch is a double
pole item also it could control power to your essential/endurance, non
avionic, bus as well. Please be aware that the parts count has gone up
and reliability has probably gone down, and I have not tried this set
up.
Yours, Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jedwood(at)earthlink.net
Sent: 21 July 2007 15:57
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics master switch/relay
I am wanting to use an avionics master switch or relay with my
electrical system. My question is: Do I need to put all of my avionics
on a separate bus then control the power to that bus by the avionics
master? Also,what if I want just a portion of my avionics on my
endurance bus? I have looked at all of the Z figures and cannot find an
example.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ed
RV-7
About to hang the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT sensor installation location |
Brian,
I just had some installed on my 0-320 and the A&P said they had to be
within 4 inches of the block.
Jeff
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: ruruny(at)aol.com
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com ; aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:49 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EGT sensor installation location
Looking at the 2 attached pics of the left and right side of my
engine, what would be the best place to install the EGT sensors.
Just thought I'd get some input from anyone who might know if there is
a best way to do it. There are 4 of them for my GRT EIS.
Thanks
Brian
701Builder.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Olech" <olechap(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Double-shielded coax |
Can someone explain the benefits of double-shielded coax cable?
A friend of mine mentioned it's either a requirement or strongly suggested
when doing the GNS430 WAAS upgrade - so what happens, does it help reduce
line loss and/or does it really reduce EMI?
Also, we were discussing whether it'd be beneficial to use double shielded
from the mag p-lead -> key switch -> mag ground and then subsequently
grounding the outer-most shield to the airframe. I wasn't sure where to
stand with this concept as I thought the idea of using a single shielded
wire isolated from the A/C ground enabled current pulses going opposite ways
to cancel most noise.
Any thoughts will be appreciated!
-Andy
RV-7 FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Perihelion Power Protector Proposal |
>From: "Eric M. Jones" <\">emjones(at)charter.net>\
>
>Planning the wiring of a small aircraft involves installing systems
>to safeguard the buses against failure of the alternator.
Nice I like it. Here are a couple of things may be to incorporate?
How about 100% isolation/protection 100% of the time?
The idea is an "A" system and a full time isolated "B" system.
I was thinking about a DC-DC battery charger & second battery.
This would make an independent "B" system from the "A" main bat
and alternator system. The "B" battery charger/battery whould give
continuous protection, as long as the charger did not go crazy or the
"B" battery did not explode, which is unlikely. If the charger failed the
battery should still be there.
http://www.powerstream.com/DCC.htm
No mater what happens with the alternator the battery charger will
isolate. Down side is 3.3 lbs, cost, plus 2nd battery weight.
You should install a manual relay to by-pass the charger and
bring the "protected" "B" system on-line with the main "A" system
as a back up.
Jets use battery chargers for similar reasons and also because
the main "A" system or systems are AC not DC. However battery
chargers do isolate the DC system.
** The SECOND jewel I came across: "BatteyLink" ACR (tm) **
http://bluesea.com/category/2/products/7600
Before you all poo-poo it, it's NOT a parallel battery bank diode.
It is a smart/logic controlled auto charge relay (ACR), and it
isolates and protect for low and high voltage.
Voltage is user settable. Click on the tabs & the hyper links
(the hyper text is monochrome and not obviously hyper links
at least on my screen, so hunt around the link about).
This would be instead of a battery DC-DC charger.
Here's the instructions:
http://bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/6330.pdf
With optional switch you can override. It's not made to parallel
for starting, but it can in a pinch up to 60amps. There's many
ways you can incorporate this ACR into a protected essential
"B" system in your wiring hierarchy.
Just thoughts, Cheers George
---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall shields |
Question on stainless steel firewall shields. I'm using two of them, one
covers my EGT/CHT harness (8 cables each containing two individual insulated
thermocouple wires surrounded by a yellow or brown cover of, I believe,
tefzel). The second one covers my VM-1000 sensor cables (half dozen 4
conductor with foil shield and tefzel outer cover).
The CHT/EGT hole in the stainless firewall has a plastic busing installed
and the harness fits through this bushing slightly snug and the firewall
shield just fits around the whole thing without having to squeeze the shield
against the wires.
The sensor cables make use of a hole I originally cut through the firewall
for an eye-ball control cable mount. The hole is quite large and a bushing
would still leave the harness not centered in the firewall shield and
sitting on the thin firewall shield material.
I've cleaned up the shear marks and smoothed the edges on the firewall
shields but am still a bit nervous about the thin material chaffing the
wires, especially the large sensor wire hole. Any thoughts/ideas on this?
Am I being too paranoid? Since we can no longer procure asbestos to make
gaskets to go under the shield what is everyone doing here? Are you using
some sort of grommet over the edges of the stainless shields to protect your
cables from chaffing....or? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Last of the wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick1" <na_derevnu(at)canada.com> |
Charlie,
Could you give please P/N and the manufacturer of your DG?
Nick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125298#125298
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
The DG is a Falcon (Wultrad) model DG02E-3H. Chinese made el cheapo
purchased from AirCraft Spruce.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: DG Short
> From: "Nick1" <na_derevnu(at)canada.com>
>
>
> Charlie,
> Could you give please P/N and the manufacturer of your DG?
> Nick
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | DIY - In the ear headphones |
I've been looking into building a in-the-ear type headset using low-end
earphones, following the example given at
http://www.canardzone.com/members/nickugolini/CuplessHeadet/cupless_headset.htm
I bought the Phillips ANR headphones from Target. I've got Jim Weir's
impedance matching circuit article describing how to use the audio
transformer, so the headphone portion is in the bag.
The hangup is with the microphone. I found some discussions where Jim
said that an amplifier is needed to use an electret element. Well, I
picked up Item# 270-090 from Radio Shack today.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?summary=summary&techSpecs=techSpecs¤tTab=techSpecs&cp=&custRatings=custRatings&features=features&accessories=accessories&productId 62215&support=support&tab=summary
It has a wiring diagram on the back of the package that seems to
indicate that the single transistor amplifier is already built into the
package. I was going to ask if that was in fact what it indicates, and
inquire whether it would work with the RST-443 intercom. Then I got
antsy and just went and tried it. With only two leads, you know I had
to hook it up backwards and feel disappointed for a minute until I
figured out to turn the leads around. Then it was "WOOHOO!!" all the way.
I'm now well on my way to having the equivalent of a $500, in-the-ear
headset, and it's only costing me about $50. (Testing is incomplete,
but others have reported resounding success.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Vouga" <gmvouga(at)hotmail.com> |
All,
I'm installing a standard Ameri-King AK-450 ELT in my RV-7A to satisfy the
FAA. I have a question about the coax wire connection. I need a couple
extra feet of cable for my installation. I'm putting the antenna under the
tail fairing and the ELT behind the baggage wall. Is it a good idea to use
RG-400 to make a longer cable? Asside from the obvious "because Ameri-King
says not to," is there a reason why this won't work? Maybe it would be
necessary to tune the new cable/antenna combination? If so, do I need
special equipment?
Thanks,
Greg
_________________________________________________________________
Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now!
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
Greg,
Here's a fast answer. I seem to recall a "best practices" suggestion
(don't know if it's a requirement) is to install the ELT, coax and antenna
close together WITHOUT passing the antenna cable through any bulkhead. The
idea here is that the further they are apart, the more likely that any one
of those three critical parts will be damaged in a crash rendering the
system useless. Put the whole setup together in the most survivable
location. Probably near the tail.
Bevan
RV7A
Not flying yet.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg
Vouga
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 8:53 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: ELT Question
-->
All,
I'm installing a standard Ameri-King AK-450 ELT in my RV-7A to satisfy the
FAA. I have a question about the coax wire connection. I need a couple
extra feet of cable for my installation. I'm putting the antenna under the
tail fairing and the ELT behind the baggage wall. Is it a good idea to use
RG-400 to make a longer cable? Asside from the obvious "because Ameri-King
says not to," is there a reason why this won't work? Maybe it would be
necessary to tune the new cable/antenna combination? If so, do I need
special equipment?
Thanks,
Greg
_________________________________________________________________
Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now!
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Byrne" <jack.byrne(at)bigpond.com> |
I am wanting to purchase a solar powered charger that is compatible with an
ODESSY battery.
This will be used as a trickle charger/battery maintainer.
By the way can you get a solar charger that will give a full charge and
revert to trickle?
Regards
Chris Byrne
SYDNEY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Feldtman" <bobf(at)feldtman.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT Question |
it will work fine. RG400 is expensive, but nice, RG58 will do just fine.
bobf
W5RF
On 7/23/07, Greg Vouga wrote:
>
> >
>
> All,
>
> I'm installing a standard Ameri-King AK-450 ELT in my RV-7A to satisfy the
> FAA. I have a question about the coax wire connection. I need a couple
> extra feet of cable for my installation. I'm putting the antenna under
> the
> tail fairing and the ELT behind the baggage wall. Is it a good idea to
> use
> RG-400 to make a longer cable? Asside from the obvious "because
> Ameri-King
> says not to," is there a reason why this won't work? Maybe it would be
> necessary to tune the new cable/antenna combination? If so, do I need
> special equipment?
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now!
> http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
Keep us posted!
Bill B ...satisfied Lightspeed Mach one user but out $400...
On 7/23/07, Ernest Christley wrote:
>
> echristley(at)nc.rr.com>
>
> I've been looking into building a in-the-ear type headset using low-end
> earphones, following the example given at
>
> http://www.canardzone.com/members/nickugolini/CuplessHeadet/cupless_headset.htm
>
>
> I bought the Phillips ANR headphones from Target. I've got Jim Weir's
> impedance matching circuit article describing how to use the audio
> transformer, so the headphone portion is in the bag.
>
> The hangup is with the microphone. I found some discussions where Jim
> said that an amplifier is needed to use an electret element. Well, I
> picked up Item# 270-090 from Radio Shack today.
>
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?summary=summary&techSpecs=techSpecs¤tTab=techSpecs&cp=&custRatings=custRatings&features=features&accessories=accessories&productId 62215&support=support&tab=summary
>
>
> It has a wiring diagram on the back of the package that seems to
> indicate that the single transistor amplifier is already built into the
> package. I was going to ask if that was in fact what it indicates, and
> inquire whether it would work with the RST-443 intercom. Then I got
> antsy and just went and tried it. With only two leads, you know I had
> to hook it up backwards and feel disappointed for a minute until I
> figured out to turn the leads around. Then it was "WOOHOO!!" all the way.
>
> I'm now well on my way to having the equivalent of a $500, in-the-ear
> headset, and it's only costing me about $50. (Testing is incomplete,
> but others have reported resounding success.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Burnaby" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
Ernest,
Does the ANR portion of the Phillips headphone still function after your
tweaking? And how do you suspend the mike?
I am enamored of the Lightspeed Mach One, but if one can home brew the
same thing for $50, I might become an electronerd yet!
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
John Burnaby wrote:
> Ernest,
>
> Does the ANR portion of the Phillips headphone still function after
> your tweaking?
The ANR sits between the plug and the speaker. I've not verified it
yet, but none of the tweaking I'm attempting should affect the ANR
function at all.
> And how do you suspend the mike?
>
Flox to the end of piano wire that wraps around your head. For maximum
clarity, you want to encase the mic in a box with just one tiny hole
directed at your mouth. Basically, you want to block sound from all
directions, except where your voice is coming from. I'm still working
on this part.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | DIY - In the ear headphones |
Actually the "tin can with a hole in one end" approach to microphone design
will give you an omnidirectional mic, which although intuitive, is not what
you need. See
http://www.prosoundweb.com/install/spotlight/cardioid/cardioidmics.shtml for
how a unidirectional mic is made.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS Tri-Gear
S/N A070
Airframe complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Christley
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DIY - In the ear headphones
> And how do you suspend the mike?
>
Flox to the end of piano wire that wraps around your head. For maximum
clarity, you want to encase the mic in a box with just one tiny hole
directed at your mouth. Basically, you want to block sound from all
directions, except where your voice is coming from. I'm still working
on this part.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Double-shielded coax |
>
>Can someone explain the benefits of double-shielded coax cable?
>
>A friend of mine mentioned it's either a requirement or strongly suggested
>when doing the GNS430 WAAS upgrade - so what happens, does it help reduce
>line loss and/or does it really reduce EMI?
Double shielding has some exceedingly small benefits to propagating
radio frequency energy from point A to point B through exceedingly
RF noise environments. Since GPS transmitted signals are below ambient
noise, it's a good idea not to "waste" your system's inherent signal
to noise ratio with a potentially degraded feedline installation. Now,
having said that, it's unlikely that anyone crafting an OBAM aircraft
will realized benefit from the double shielding. The major jump in
coax quality for RG400 vs. RG58 is modern, higher temperature,
environmentally robust insulations. PVC and Polyethylene were whippy-do
materials in WWII, but cousins to teflon are the materials of choice
today.
The choice is not so much one of performance as-installed but one of
longevity in service combined with doing the best we know how to do.
It's similar to the evolution in finishes. Nobody would consider painting
their airplane with cellulose based dope (al la Hindenberg) no matter how
good it looks when compared to an equally fresh coat of Imron.
>Also, we were discussing whether it'd be beneficial to use double shielded
>from the mag p-lead -> key switch -> mag ground and then subsequently
>grounding the outer-most shield to the airframe. I wasn't sure where to
>stand with this concept as I thought the idea of using a single shielded
>wire isolated from the A/C ground enabled current pulses going opposite ways
>to cancel most noise.
No. Shielding in these applications are for mitigation of ELECTROSTATIC
coupled noises and there is no benefit to using double shielded coax
for p-leads. Ground as shown in the z-figures at the engine end only.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Avionics master switch/relay |
Or how about wiring per figure on page 4 of
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/avmaster.pdf
Bob . . .
>Ed,
>
>
>If you still want to use an avionics master after reading all Bob has
>written you could try using 2 avionics buses, each energized by a relay
>both of which are switched by one double pole switch. Put your essential
>avionics on one bus and provide that with power direct from the battery
>via an emergency switch and diode. If the emergency switch is a double
>pole item also it could control power to your essential/endurance, non
>avionic, bus as well. Please be aware that the parts count has gone up and
>reliability has probably gone down, and I have not tried this set up.
>
>
>Yours, Peter
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>jedwood(at)earthlink.net
>Sent: 21 July 2007 15:57
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics master switch/relay
>
>
>I am wanting to use an avionics master switch or relay with my electrical
>system. My question is: Do I need to put all of my avionics on a separate
>bus then control the power to that bus by the avionics master? Also,what
>if I want just a portion of my avionics on my endurance bus? I have looked
>at all of the Z figures and cannot find an example.
>
>
>Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
There's a bunch of new electrical system management products
coming on line these days. I've consulted for several manufacturers
of such products.
The question to be asked and answered is what is the $cost$ to
save how much $time$ and at what reduction in system reliability -
particularly with respect to single points of failure propagating
across multiple systems. What are the weight penalties and perhaps
most importantly, if one decides to stay with traditional management
techniques and philosophies, what other useful electro-whizzy could
be purchased with dollars not invested for added convenience or
"gee whiz".
Without arguing for or against such systems, I would encourage
every potential user to deduce for themselves the return on
investment in the product for how they intend to use the airplane
while keeping in mind an old adage my grandfather might have
offered . . . "Sometimes the best way to drive a nail is with
a hammer."
Bob . . .
>List,
>
>This new product just popped up on the radar. What do you all think, does
>it show potential?
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
>
>Here is the web site for the new Smart Aircraft Management Systems, "SAMS"
>
><http://smartaircraftsystems.com/>http://smartaircraftsystems.com/
>
>Still preliminary and lots of housekeeping and text editing but its
>basically complete.
>
>This is a all solid state electrical system with no relays mechanical CB,
>fuses, or contactors in the power path from the battery (s) to the end user
>equipment, Integrated into this system is a complete fault detection and
>warning system that includes relational logic to detect and warn if two or
>more monitored conditions exist that alone is not a fault but the specific
>combination of conditions will generate a fault. Both Visual and Audible
>warnings are available. This fault detection system includes the ability to
>have different levels of limit checking and the modules are interconnected
>using the automotive type CAN serial bus. This fault system is independent
>of the hardwired electrical power system for reliability. With solid state
>switches and built in over current protection the result is a simple to wire
>electrical system. Its been in work for several years.
>
>Feel free to ask questions.
>
>Paul
>
>
>----------
>Get a sneak peek of the all-new
><http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982>AOL.com.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>
>
>incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG.
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Semi-Custom Products |
>
>Bob
>
>This may not fit into your philosophy of versatility but FWIW if I were in
>the market for the LV/OV control board I would prefer to see the lights
>and switch already mounted within the module. Second best would be a
>pre-wired remote panel of lights and switch or at least the option of
>purchasing those unassembled parts at the same time. I have learned that
>it is nice to have all such remote assemblies of switches or lights easily
>removeable as a unit for serviceability rather than mounted in individual
>holes in the instrument panel. In addition where I've used a single DB
>connector on a device for both power and a remote panel, I've found it
>difficult to remove the remote panel for service or modification since the
>connector is also hardwired to the aircraft.
Keep in mind that the Do-Lots assembly is capable of being configured
for a multitude of tasks . . . many of which may not even have lights
and or switches. If I were addressing the single application cited, then
yes, avoiding the remotely mounted electronics module would be desirable.
One could always configure their own installation with the necessary
and useful in-line connectors to accommodate a maintenance situation.
>We have completed 130 flight hours with our Z-14 wired subaru now without
>any nuisance OV trips. The only electrical issue is that I recently
>purchased a comfortable David Clarke headset and with our fairly quiet
>engine, I now hear weak but annoying strobe whine that I couldn't hear in
>cruise with other headsets. I have already followed most of your wiring
>recommendations so it may take me awhile to solve this one especially
>since the strobes operate off a different alternator and battery as the
>radio and intercom.
Start with a test battery made up of a couple 6v
lantern batteries to run the strobe supply with a
short cable and batteries located right at the power
supply. You need to deduce the propagation mode. I suspect
it's conducted and a relatively simple filter at the
power supply will fix it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
Rob Housman wrote:
>
> Actually the "tin can with a hole in one end" approach to microphone design
> will give you an omnidirectional mic, which although intuitive, is not what
> you need. See
> http://www.prosoundweb.com/install/spotlight/cardioid/cardioidmics.shtml for
> how a unidirectional mic is made.
>
>
Boy, did you save me some rabbit chasing.
I've now got all the pieces working (except the microphone housing), and
I've had to do practically nothing. The Phillps ANR Earbuds come with a
1/4" adapter that will plug directly into the intercom. The sound is
excellent. My intercom is mono, so I have some work to do there, but
there's nothing to do otherwise. I have to add a 3/16" adapter to the
end of the microphone, and I think a small bottle cap and a piece of
foam double-sided tape will make it into a nice cardoid. The piano wire
bends nicely around my ears and the back of my head, and is very
comfortable with a little heatshrink added.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <kahamer(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Hi Chris,
I buildt one myself using a single voltage regulator LM338K and a couple
of resistors and caps.LM338 is $10.- and will handle up to 5A.It
provides a constant adjustable output voltage and keeps the battery
charged.
Karl Ahamer
Mittagong/Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Byrne
Sent: Tuesday, 24 July 2007 7:31 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Solar Charger
I am wanting to purchase a solar powered charger that is compatible with
an
ODESSY battery.
This will be used as a trickle charger/battery maintainer.
By the way can you get a solar charger that will give a full charge and
revert to trickle?
Regards
Chris Byrne
SYDNEY
23/07/2007 7:45 PM
23/07/2007 7:45 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
Ernest Christley wrote:
>
>
> Rob Housman wrote:
>> <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
>>
>> Actually the "tin can with a hole in one end" approach to microphone
>> design
>> will give you an omnidirectional mic, which although intuitive, is not
>> what
>> you need. See
>> http://www.prosoundweb.com/install/spotlight/cardioid/cardioidmics.shtml
>> for
>> how a unidirectional mic is made.
>>
> Boy, did you save me some rabbit chasing.
>
> I've now got all the pieces working (except the microphone housing), and
> I've had to do practically nothing. The Phillps ANR Earbuds come with a
> 1/4" adapter that will plug directly into the intercom. The sound is
> excellent. My intercom is mono, so I have some work to do there, but
> there's nothing to do otherwise. I have to add a 3/16" adapter to the
> end of the microphone, and I think a small bottle cap and a piece of
> foam double-sided tape will make it into a nice cardoid. The piano wire
> bends nicely around my ears and the back of my head, and is very
> comfortable with a little heatshrink added.
As someone else pointed out, a directional mic would be helpful. Also,
building one starting with an omni is a non-trivial task. Buying an
el-cheapo a/c headset or a used one & cannibalizing it for its mic *is*
a trivial task. (You also get the proper mic connector in the bargain.)
One the guys on an ultralite list I monitor is using ANR earbuds under
his regular headset. He reports that noise reduction is really good. :-)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | DIY - In the ear headphones |
Yeah, maybe, but the rabbit is still hopping along. I pointed you to the
theory but now you have to get the design to agree with theory. The trick
is to calculate the time values in the referenced article so that the sound
from the rear arrives at the front side of the diaphragm in phase with the
sound from the front. The velocity of sound at 30 deg C is 350
meters/second.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS Tri-Gear
S/N A070
Airframe complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernest
Christley
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DIY - In the ear headphones
Rob Housman wrote:
<rob@hyperion-ef.com>
>
> Actually the "tin can with a hole in one end" approach to microphone
design
> will give you an omnidirectional mic, which although intuitive, is not
what
> you need. See
> http://www.prosoundweb.com/install/spotlight/cardioid/cardioidmics.shtml
for
> how a unidirectional mic is made.
>
>
Boy, did you save me some rabbit chasing.
I've now got all the pieces working (except the microphone housing), and
I've had to do practically nothing. The Phillps ANR Earbuds come with a
1/4" adapter that will plug directly into the intercom. The sound is
excellent. My intercom is mono, so I have some work to do there, but
there's nothing to do otherwise. I have to add a 3/16" adapter to the
end of the microphone, and I think a small bottle cap and a piece of
foam double-sided tape will make it into a nice cardoid. The piano wire
bends nicely around my ears and the back of my head, and is very
comfortable with a little heatshrink added.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
Charlie England wrote:
>
>
> Ernest Christley wrote:
>>
>>
>> Rob Housman wrote:
>>> <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
>>>
>>> Actually the "tin can with a hole in one end" approach to microphone
>>> design
>>> will give you an omnidirectional mic, which although intuitive, is
>>> not what
>>> you need. See
>>> http://www.prosoundweb.com/install/spotlight/cardioid/cardioidmics.shtml
>>> for
>>> how a unidirectional mic is made.
>>>
>> Boy, did you save me some rabbit chasing.
>>
>> I've now got all the pieces working (except the microphone housing),
>> and I've had to do practically nothing. The Phillps ANR Earbuds come
>> with a 1/4" adapter that will plug directly into the intercom. The
>> sound is excellent. My intercom is mono, so I have some work to do
>> there, but there's nothing to do otherwise. I have to add a 3/16"
>> adapter to the end of the microphone, and I think a small bottle cap
>> and a piece of foam double-sided tape will make it into a nice
>> cardoid. The piano wire bends nicely around my ears and the back of
>> my head, and is very comfortable with a little heatshrink added.
>
> As someone else pointed out, a directional mic would be helpful. Also,
> building one starting with an omni is a non-trivial task. Buying an
> el-cheapo a/c headset or a used one & cannibalizing it for its mic *is*
> a trivial task. (You also get the proper mic connector in the bargain.)
>
> One the guys on an ultralite list I monitor is using ANR earbuds under
> his regular headset. He reports that noise reduction is really good. :-)
>
> Charlie
>
>
Well duhhh...
Is it obvious that I waited until after posting to read the link?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DIY - In the ear headphones |
Rob Housman wrote:
>
> Yeah, maybe, but the rabbit is still hopping along. I pointed you to the
> theory but now you have to get the design to agree with theory. The trick
> is to calculate the time values in the referenced article so that the sound
> from the rear arrives at the front side of the diaphragm in phase with the
> sound from the front. The velocity of sound at 30 deg C is 350
> meters/second.
>
Yeah, that's one way to go about it.
Another method involves my Echelon headset and a pair of calipers 8*)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net> |
I'm offering two presentations at OSH this year.
One on Thursday afternoon and the other on Friday
night (open Q&A session). Dr. Dee is unable to accompany
me on this trip so my father-in-law is coming along to
share driving duties (and to find out what this OBAM aircraft
thing is all about!).
I'll be off line until Sunday. Hope we can meet some
of you there!
Bob . . .
----------------------------------------
( "Physics is like sex: sure, it may )
( give some practical results, but )
( that's not why we do it." )
( )
( Richard P. Feynman )
----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dougshep(at)netzero.com" <dougshep(at)NetZero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Flap position control |
Building an RV-9A. Is there a schematic available that shows how to con
trol the Flaps in 0, 10, 20, 30 degree increments? Maybe a DC servo con
trol circuit?
Also, in an all metal airframe, is it acceptable to use stainless steel
hardware to ground returns to the airframe?
Building an RV-9A. Is there a schematic available that sh
ows how to control the Flaps in 0, 10, 20, 30 degree increments?&nb
sp; Maybe a DC servo control circuit?
Also, in an all metal airframe, is it acceptable to use stainles
s steel hardware to ground returns to the airframe?