AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-it
June 09, 2009 - June 23, 2009
> Frank George (Corvallis)
> Sent: Tue 6/9/2009 5:47 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Canopy Switch
>
>
> (Corvallis)"
>
> Personally I would use a buzzer from Radio shack instead of a light so
> it works in bright sunlight.
>
> Don't know if the Dynon will drive a buzzer or not but you might just
> avoid the Dynon altogether and run the buzzer through the switch.
>
> I'm assuming here you want a warning that you left your master
> on?...if so you could wire the switch such the ground path goes thru
> the master switch.
>
> If you just want a canopy open switch (not sure what value it really
> has?) then you can just wire a simple circuit thru the buzzer or light
> your choice.
>
> Either way there is not much point in going through the Dynon.
>
> Frank
> RV7a D100 and Ems10
>
> I want to add a canopy (open) warning switch to my Lanciar Legacy.
> I've got a Dynon 180 which handles all the high tech stuff but I need
> the appropriate switch and vendor information from which to source it.
> Naturally the switch should be low profile or recessed and perhaps be
> adjustable in depth such that it could be adjusted to the canopy
> tightness.
>
> The premise of the Dynon is to alert via a contact light of a normally
> closed or normally open item. Basically if it's grounded, it closes
> the switch and allows the turns the light green.
>
> If you have completed such an installation I'd be glad to hear of what
> switch you used and related frustrations if any.
>
>
> Thanks in ======================
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.Same great content also available via the Web href="https://exc03wwp.corp.ds.pjm.com/f5-w-687474703a2f2f666f72756d732p; - List Contribution Web bsp; -Matt Dralle, List href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Burning up Van's Engine Instruments because? |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
Saturday was hot and busy flying kids for COPA fun event. After 3 hours I started
to taxi back and smelled smoke. On examination my Van's voltmeter melted
inside the electronics, on the circuit board, between the power and the ground
stud, had burned up melting the case.
Today checked the voltage and found 12 volts (not running) and 14.2 volts (running)
at the main bus that feeds instruments. Then found that the Oil Temp gauge
was hot at same place and melting, and Manifold Pressure is very warm to touch.
I searched and found no obvious loose grounds.
Any suggestions about what would cause this? Where to look next?
Sure appreciate any advice, expertice is distant here in Yukon.
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247505#247505
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Barrow <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
Date: Tue=2C 9 Jun 2009 15:20:29 -0500
From: nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z12 questions
> Yes=2C you can run both alternators together but
>getting them to share proportionately is difficult
>without special paralleling regulators.
Bob=2C what exactly happens with architecture Z12 (with specifically one L
R3 and one SB-1 regulator) if you keep turning on major loads (pitot=2C lan
ding lights=2C etc) until the primary L40 alternator can no longer cope and
the voltage sags. Will the SD20 come on and run concurrently. I presume it
will... until some of the loads are shed..but from your comment above it
may not be a happy event over time. Can you please elaborate on this. Is it
possible that one or both of the alternators (or the regulators) could be
damaged if both alternators are running concurrently in Z12.
I'm trying to work out whether with Z12 I need to ensure that my primary al
ternator is never pushed beyond its capacity (ie swap the L40 for an L60).
Regards Bob Barrow
_________________________________________________________________
POP access for Hotmail is here! Click here to find out more
http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id2246
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 07:22 AM 6/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>----------
>
>Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 15:20:29 -0500
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>From: nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z12 questions
>
>
> > Yes, you can run both alternators together but
> >getting them to share proportionately is difficult
> >without special paralleling regulators.
>
> Bob, what exactly happens with architecture Z12 (with specifically
> one LR3 and one SB-1 regulator) if you keep turning on major loads
> (pitot, landing lights, etc) until the primary L40 alternator can
> no longer cope and the voltage sags. Will the SD20 come on and run
> concurrently. I presume it will... until some of the loads are
> shed..but from your comment above it may not be a happy event over
> time. Can you please elaborate on this. Is it possible that one or
> both of the alternators (or the regulators) could be damaged if
> both alternators are running concurrently in Z12.
>
>I'm trying to work out whether with Z12 I need to ensure that my
>primary alternator is never pushed beyond its capacity (ie swap the
>L40 for an L60).
The "sharing" scenario you described is correct
when the SD-20 is regulated by the SB-1 and the
aux alternator setpoint is about 1 volt lower than
the main alternator.
As long as your main alternator is adequately
cooled, there is no risk of damage to the main
alternator. I was curious as to what kind of loads
you are anticipating that would require over
30A of continuous engine driven power.
For example, you wouldn't have any exterior lights
on along with pitot heat.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: problem in Bob's Wigwag.pdf circuit? |
At 07:49 PM 6/9/2009, you wrote:
>Hello - I am new to the list so please don't flame me for posting
>this. I am designing my landing lights around the circuit on page 4
>of Bob's Wigwg.pdf.
>
>This is the circuit that uses the 4PDT switch, marked "4TL1-10 or
>equal" I just ordered my switch today. My design goal of this
>circuit is to have the switch function as OFF-WIGWAG-ON, with OFF in
>the bottom position.
>
>In completing my design, I noticed in the Honeywell datasheet for
>the 4TL1-10 switch (available at this link:
><http://www.datasheetarchive.com/4TL1-10-datasheet.html>http://www.datasheetarchive.com/4TL1-10-datasheet.html
>) does not match the one in Bob's schematic.
>
>The problem is that for the -10 switch in the datasheet, there are
>two poles (pins 8 & 11) that are open in the center condition. The
>switch in Bob's circuit requires all poles to be active in all positions.
>
>After careful datasheet reading, I think that Bob's design will work
>with a 4TL1-12 switch. It is supposedly the same circuitry as a -50
>(which looks right) and has no momentary positions.
>
>Can anyone confirm that I need to cancel my order for the -10 and
>get a -12 instead? I'm hoping to find out quickly to avoid buying
>the wrong switch.
>
>I did search the archive and found a single poster mentioning that
>the circuit didn't work... maybe this was why?
I just checked the data package for wig-wag options
I published at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Lighting/WigWag.pdf
The single control switch option on page 4 calls
out the 4TL1-12 switch. Where did you see a recommendation
for the 4TL1-10? I note that this drawing was updated
in January of 07. I don't recall now but perhaps this
change was to correct the part number.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dave.gribble(at)mchsi.com |
| Subject: | Re: problem in Bob's Wigwag.pdf circuit? |
________________________________________________________________________________
The RV-10 guys have the same issue and can have a really bad day if they
launch without the doors being latched. I've got two friends with RV-10s
that have switches that are triggered by the door pins. I can't give you
part numbers but check the RV-10 sites. I think they are 3rd party and not
Van's.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of longg(at)pjm.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2009 4:23 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Canopy Switch
>
>
> I want to add a canopy (open) warning switch to my Lanciar
> Legacy. I've got a Dynon 180 which handles all the high tech
> stuff but I need the appropriate switch and vendor
> information from which to source it.
> Naturally the switch should be low profile or recessed and
> perhaps be adjustable in depth such that it could be adjusted
> to the canopy tightness.
>
> The premise of the Dynon is to alert via a contact light of a
> normally closed or normally open item. Basically if it's
> grounded, it closes the switch and allows the turns the light green.
>
> If you have completed such an installation I'd be glad to
> hear of what switch you used and related frustrations if any.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z12 questions |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Bob,
This raises a question that I know has been discussed before, but I could not find
in the archives. I have a Plane Power 60A and a SD20. What are the pros and
cons of using two LR3 's versus one LR3 and one SB-1? Thanks.
Jim Berry
RV10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247562#247562
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Circuit for "alternator emulator" for SEC-1223 |
Bob,
Have you found (in your paper stack) the circuit for a battery backup
module or "alternator emulator" used to convert SEC-1223 power supply for
battery backup application? I want to run my avionics while the battery
backup
module is used between the SEC-1223 and the aircraft battery.
My previous thread on Aerolectrics was about the problem of running my
avionics with the SEC-1223 wired to the the aircraft battery. As I under
stand
this, there is a problem with the battery backfeeding the SEC-1223 and a
problem with a discharged battery damaging the SEC-1223 by drawing too mu
ch
current.
Would this simple circuit work?
Input Negative (from SEC-1223)----------------------------Battery
Negative-------------Load Negative (Avionics)
Input Positive(from SEC-1223)----------!>------------------Battery
Positive-------------Load Positive (Avionics)
!> is a Schottky Diode to protect the Battery backfeeding the Power
Supply. Unfortunately, this gives no protection to the power supply
(over-current) AND too much charging current for my recombinant gas batte
ry in the
case of a discharged battery. The circuit also lowers the voltage to th
e
battery because of the diode forward voltage drop of 0.4 to 0.5 volt depe
nding
on the current draw, leaving 13.4 to 13.3 volts to the battery. My
battery is a 34AHr Concorde CB35 RGXC. Recommended charging current woul
d be
34 divided by 20 = 1.7 amps. Adding power resistors to the series circ
uit
to protect the power supply from providing too much current would only
reduce the current to the battery and limit the voltage to the avionics
from
battery drawdown?
1. Recommended circuit to solve my problems?
OR
2. Don't worry about a discharged battery if I know it is reasonably full
y
charged and just us the simple circuit above to protect the Battery
backfeeding the Power Supply? Adequate forward voltage? Source and specs
for the
Shottky diode?
OR
3. Just use the b-lead to the alternator as you recommended before? How
to identify b-lead and attach which suitable connector so I can get to it
easily on a regular basis? Run wire to my cowling cooling air outlet wit
h
which connector.
OR
Install a cigarette lighter outlet under my panel to energize the avionics
master and leave the battery master switch off?
Help!
Don Schmiesing
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell
=99s
full line of laptops.
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566094%3B3786435
8%3Bv)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect |
I have a HE device on the B lead from the Alternator to the main battery.
It is oriented so that current is measured from the alternator to the mai
n
battery thus indicating the load imposed on the alternator.
I have a shunt on the standby battery to measure current being used from
the battery.
If current flows in the opposite direction from the planned flow, does one
get a negative amperage indication?
Stan Sutterfield
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell
=99s
full line of laptops.
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566094%3B3786435
8%3Bv)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
This may not be the ideal forum for asking this question, but I'll try it
anyway.
I want to certify my RV-8 for IFR flight. I know the FARs - I've looked
at them.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS One as primary instrumentation.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS Lite as a backup.
Both EFISs are on different electrical busses - the main and the standby.
-
which can be tied together, if needed.
I asked a local avionics guy about doing a pitot-static and transponder
check for IFR. He said I would have to install a separate altimeter and
encoder in order to get IFR certification. The EFIS has a built-in encod
er.
Has anyone else encountered this obstacle?
Stan Sutterfield
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell
=99s
full line of laptops.
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566094%3B3786435
8%3Bv)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
Nonsence!..He'll be telling you you need a vacuum pump next!
I have a Dynon D100 that does the altitude encoding and there is certainly
no requirement for a second altimeter.
Go elsewhere..
Frank
7a IFR
________________________________
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr
ic-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 10:21 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: IFR Certification
This may not be the ideal forum for asking this question, but I'll try it a
nyway.
I want to certify my RV-8 for IFR flight. I know the FARs - I've looked at
them.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS One as primary instrumentation.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS Lite as a backup.
Both EFISs are on different electrical busses - the main and the standby. -
which can be tied together, if needed.
I asked a local avionics guy about doing a pitot-static and transponder che
ck for IFR. He said I would have to install a separate altimeter and encod
er in order to get IFR certification. The EFIS has a built-in encoder.
Has anyone else encountered this obstacle?
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________
Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell's full line of
redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566094%3B37864358%3Bv>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
Stan =93
Other folks have had similar issues. Some avionics shops demand TSOd
equipment, then can=99t quote chapter and verse of the reg that
requires it.
The technician=99s task is to test the equipment as installed and
verify that the data it puts out is accurate within limits, not to pass
judgment on your choice of hardware.
Find yourself another shop.
Neal
------------------------
This may not be the ideal forum for asking this question, but I'll try
it anyway.
I want to certify my RV-8 for IFR flight. I know the FARs - I've looked
at them.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS One as primary instrumentation.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS Lite as a backup.
Both EFISs are on different electrical busses - the main and the
standby. - which can be tied together, if needed.
I asked a local avionics guy about doing a pitot-static and transponder
check for IFR. He said I would have to install a separate altimeter and
encoder in order to get IFR certification. The EFIS has a built-in
encoder.
Has anyone else encountered this obstacle?
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help witn Dynon 180 and RAC Parts |
| From: | "Gig Giacona" <wrgiacona(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone have a wiring diagram for where they installed with a Dynon 180...
2 RAC trim servos, 1 RAC Flap Sensor, 1 five button RAC grip?
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247593#247593
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Measuring voltage on aircraft and engine sensors? |
| From: | "mosquito56" <mosquito-56(at)hotmail.com> |
I am trying to connect my aircraft to a microcontroller and some adc's.
Will a hall effect rpm sensor work on 5vdc?
Are the oil temp and oil pressure sensors just pots?
I am using a Jabiruu 3300.
Thanx much
Don
Zodiac 601xl
N601NV
Soon beginning engine install.
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247592#247592
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
This is a rather common occurance by shops that are either uneducated or
inexperienced with experimental aircraft. Sometimes it's also as a result
of naiive FSDO people as well. Basically the information provided to you is
completely false and not correct. The EFIS with it's encoder is just
fine....so is it's altimeter - assuming both will pass an IFR check. We
have our FAA Repair Station Certification and do a lot of said pitot static
and/or transponder checks on both certified and experimentals. Should be no
problem if you find the right people or right shop.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 12:21 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: IFR Certification
This may not be the ideal forum for asking this question, but I'll try it
anyway.
I want to certify my RV-8 for IFR flight. I know the FARs - I've looked
at them.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS One as primary instrumentation.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS Lite as a backup.
Both EFISs are on different electrical busses - the main and the
standby. - which can be tied together, if needed.
I asked a local avionics guy about doing a pitot-static and transponder
check for IFR. He said I would have to install a separate altimeter and
encoder in order to get IFR certification. The EFIS has a built-in encoder.
Has anyone else encountered this obstacle?
Stan Sutterfield
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell's full line of
laptops.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Switch |
I put a switch on the canopy latch of my RV-7. It indicates that the
canopy is "closed and latched." I don't remember the part number of
the switch but it was just a tiny little limit switch. it has worked
well for 180 hours. Occasionally it even reminds me to close the
canopy. :-)
There are a couple of pictures here...
http://www.myrv7.com/viewlog.php?year 05&month=2
Any switch that is a SPDT should work for what you want to do, I
seriously doubt that the detection circuit carries more than a few
milliamps. You just need to find one that fits the geometry.
Phil
On Jun 9, 2009, at 4:23 PM, wrote:
>
> I want to add a canopy (open) warning switch to my Lanciar Legacy.
> I've
> got a Dynon 180 which handles all the high tech stuff but I need the
> appropriate switch and vendor information from which to source it.
> Naturally the switch should be low profile or recessed and perhaps be
> adjustable in depth such that it could be adjusted to the canopy
> tightness.
>
> The premise of the Dynon is to alert via a contact light of a normally
> closed or normally open item. Basically if it's grounded, it closes
> the
> switch and allows the turns the light green.
>
> If you have completed such an installation I'd be glad to hear of what
> switch you used and related frustrations if any.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
Well I'm stumped....my simple RV8, basic analog instruments only, Nipon Denso 40
amp Alternator, Oddeysey battery, worked well for 200 hours.
Saturday Volt Meter burned (resistor on circuit board overheated and melted case),
then Oil Temperature gauge did same thing, now today while testing Manifold
Pressure full of smoke.
I have;
-checked - no loose wires found ground or power.
-Good Battery-engine-ground (heavy cable, short runs, tight connections.)
-Good bus connections (one central ground bus located at firewall)
-14.2 Volts on meter at gauges while running, but instruments overheat.
-12+ volts on meter when engine stopped, instruments seem not to overheat.
-Removed alternator and took to shop for evaluation....tested on stand and found
good output and diodes.
Anybody got a next step? Nice weather........need to fly
George
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247617#247617
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
Interesting..
Can you see what in the instrument is fried? Is it a component connected
to the V+ or from the signal/sensor (or something else)?
I assume the 14.2V value is measured on the instrument supply (V+)
terminal. Can you compare this with the voltage at the bus.
Can you measure the voltage drop between the instrument (display) ground
and the engine ground (with the engine running)? I understand that all of
the connections appear solid.
Have you done any recent maintenance or mods?
Regards,
Matt-
>
>
> Well I'm stumped....my simple RV8, basic analog instruments only, Nipon
> Denso 40 amp Alternator, Oddeysey battery, worked well for 200 hours.
>
> Saturday Volt Meter burned (resistor on circuit board overheated and
> melted case), then Oil Temperature gauge did same thing, now today while
> testing Manifold Pressure full of smoke.
>
> I have;
> -checked - no loose wires found ground or power.
> -Good Battery-engine-ground (heavy cable, short runs, tight connections.)
> -Good bus connections (one central ground bus located at firewall)
> -14.2 Volts on meter at gauges while running, but instruments overheat.
> -12+ volts on meter when engine stopped, instruments seem not to overheat.
> -Removed alternator and took to shop for evaluation....tested on stand and
> found good output and diodes.
>
>
> Anybody got a next step? Nice weather........need to fly
> George
>
> --------
> Jake
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247617#247617
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect |
At 12:15 PM 6/10/2009, you wrote:
>I have a HE device on the B lead from the Alternator to the main
>battery. It is oriented so that current is measured from the
>alternator to the main battery thus indicating the load imposed on
>the alternator.
>
>I have a shunt on the standby battery to measure current being used
>from the battery.
>
>If current flows in the opposite direction from the planned flow,
>does one get a negative amperage indication?
>
>Stan Sutterfield
Probably. But it's dependent upon the display
software. I've never encountered a system that
wouldn't show both +/- indications accurately but that
doesn't mean they don't exist. Chances are your
indicator will show a value for both charge
and discharge currents just fine.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Switch |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The mechanism referred to in RV-10s is a simple magnetic reed switch arrangement.
There is a magnet in each door pin and the reed switches mounted in the door
frames.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247644#247644
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
Yes.. Current going the opposite direction through the shunt will
generate a negative voltage. The sensor connected to the shunt should
interpret/display that as a negative current.
One other thought is that a large discharge current is created by
operating the engine starter which will generate a significant negative
voltage across the shunt. If using a mechanical display it will slap the
needle around pretty hard. Maybe not a big deal, but something to
consider. One might install a normally-closed relay in the lead to the
shunt which. Connect the controlling coil to the starter switch so that
when the starter is engaged, the meter is disabled. I wouldn't think a
digital display input would have any problems.
If the shunt drops 50mV at full scale alternator output (not an unusual
scheme). Alternator output might be 50A, and starter current might be
250A, so the shunt might drop 500mV (-0.5V) when operating the starter.
Round numbers.
Regards,
Matt-
> I have a HE device on the B lead from the Alternator to the main battery.
> It is oriented so that current is measured from the alternator to the
> main
> battery thus indicating the load imposed on the alternator.
>
> I have a shunt on the standby battery to measure current being used from
> the battery.
>
> If current flows in the opposite direction from the planned flow, does one
> get a negative amperage indication?
>
> Stan Sutterfield
> **************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop
> Dells
> full line of laptops.
> =http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566094%3B3786435
> 8%3Bv)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
6/11/2009
Hello Stan, You wrote: "This may not be the ideal forum for asking this
question, but I'll try it anyway."
Actually, this is the ideal forum for asking this question.
This topic has been hashed out extensively on the aeroelectric list. If you
are interested in better understanding the situation go to the aeroelectric
archives and search for "encoder approval". You will find many entries under
this search phrase and there are other search phrases that will also
generate past postings on this subject.
To save you some time searching take a look at some of the postings in
August , 2006 with the subject "encoder approval".
You received some good advice in response to your posting copied below --
just go to another agency capable of performing the required 14 CFR 91.411
"IFR certification" tests and have them perform the tests and provide the
paper work. You'll be joining hundreds of other amateur builders happily
flying IFR with non TSO'd altitude encoders that have passed the required
tests of 14 CFR 91.411.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
PS: Stein Bruch wrote: " Basically the information provided to you is
completely false and not correct."
That is not entirely true. In defense of your local avionics guy he is
taking the same position that FAA headquarters took on the altitude
encoder -- that is, the altitude encoder must either be TSO'd or be tested
in accordance with 14 CFR paragraph 91.217 (b). The tests that FAA
headquarters described for compliance with 91.217 (b) are very elaborate and
extensive.
================================================
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: IFR Certification
This may not be the ideal forum for asking this question, but I'll try it
anyway.
I want to certify my RV-8 for IFR flight. I know the FARs - I've looked at
them.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS One as primary instrumentation.
I have the Blue Mountain EFIS Lite as a backup.
Both EFISs are on different electrical busses - the main and the standby.
-
which can be tied together, if needed.
I asked a local avionics guy about doing a pitot-static and transponder
check for IFR. He said I would have to install a separate altimeter and
encoder in order to get IFR certification. The EFIS has a built-in encod
er.
Has anyone else encountered this obstacle?
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect |
Matt and Bob,
Thanks for your responses. You've confirmed my understanding of shunt an
d
HE functions.
I'm using an Advanced Flt Systems AF-3400 and it reads both devices. I'v
e
had external power (regulated power supply) connected to one battery and
I
was getting negative amp indications. So, with the power supply connecte
d
to the battery and electrical consumers turned on, the shunt/HE will show
a negative amperage.
I'll be running the engine again in a few days and I'll check to make sur
e
amps are positive with normal alternator operation.
Stan
Yes.. Current going the opposite direction through the shunt will
generate a negative voltage. The sensor connected to the shunt should
interpret/display that as a negative current.
**************Dell Deals: Don=99t miss huge summer savings on popula
r laptops
starting at $449.
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566131%3B37864407%3B
i)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
Thanks for all the responses.
I will use this guy to do the initial VFR certification because he will
come to me rather than me having to take the airplane to him. Then maybe
I'll just fly it to Stein's place and get him to do the IFR cert for me.
: )
Stan Sutterfield
This is a rather common occurance by shops that are either uneducated or
inexperienced with experimental aircraft. Sometimes it's also as a resul
t
of naiive FSDO people as well. Basically the information provided to you
is
completely false and not correct. The EFIS with it's encoder is just
fine....so is it's altimeter - assuming both will pass an IFR check. We
have our FAA Repair Station Certification and do a lot of said pitot stat
ic
and/or transponder checks on both certified and experimentals. Should be
no
problem if you find the right people or right shop.
**************Dell Deals: Don=99t miss huge summer savings on popula
r laptops
starting at $449.
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566131%3B37864407%3B
i)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Switch |
Thanks to all for the suggestions. It sounds like the best solution is
to find a switch that fits the geometry of my latch and work it from
there (more fun there). I'm also checking on a pitot pressure switch or
throttle up switch as a backup.
Glenn
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bcondrey
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 10:53 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Canopy Switch
The mechanism referred to in RV-10s is a simple magnetic reed switch
arrangement. There is a magnet in each door pin and the reed switches
mounted in the door frames.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247644#247644
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. |
| From: | "user9253" <fran5sew(at)banyanol.com> |
Jake,
What is the ambient temperature around your gauges? That could be a factor. The
most likely cause of failure to a voltmeter is excessively high voltage. AC
voltage applied to some instruments designed for DC could also cause damage.
But you had the diodes checked out. And an AC component would be noticed in
your headset. Since you are not having problems with other electrical devices
on your airplane, it is unlikely that the aircraft electrical system is causing
failure of your instruments unless there is something unique about the power
being applied to the instruments.
I suggest that you replace the analog voltmeter with a digital one. A high
quality digital voltmeter should be immune to whatever your electrical system
throws at it. If after flying with the new digital meter and observing the voltage,
the other instruments can be replaced.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247674#247674
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Measuring voltage on aircraft and engine sensors? |
At 02:11 PM 6/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>I am trying to connect my aircraft to a microcontroller and some adc's.
>
>Will a hall effect rpm sensor work on 5vdc?
Get the data sheet for the sensor you plan to use.
The HE devices I've used in the past to look at
shaft rpms were quite happy with 5v supply. I
suspect most are but the manufacturer's data
sheet is the last word.
>Are the oil temp and oil pressure sensors just pots?
I presume you're building from scratch. Temperature
and pressure sensors come in lots of flavors.
I personally favor the use of thermocouples for
all temperature measurements. These are most
easily adapted to the 5v microprocessor world
with thermocouple conditioning chips like the
AD594 series.
http://www.mne.psu.edu/sommer/me445/AD594_5_c.pdf
But there are numerous other products using
thermo-resistive sensors to choose from. The
nice thing about thermocouples is that they're
calibrated right off the roll of wire. Pressure
transducers these days are usually amplified
piezo-resistive device like . . .
Emacs!
These can be pretty pricey compared to the automotive
devices that behave pretty much like a rheostat.
Emacs!
You can adapt about anything to your task when
starting from a clean piece of paper.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
Don't if it was legal but I didn't do a VFR cert..I just labeled the Transp
onder "Inooperative" and flew it to get the IFR cert done...Why pay twice i
f you don't have to?
Frank
________________________________
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr
ic-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 7:11 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: IFR Certification
Thanks for all the responses.
I will use this guy to do the initial VFR certification because he will com
e to me rather than me having to take the airplane to him. Then maybe I'll
just fly it to Stein's place and get him to do the IFR cert for me. : )
Stan Sutterfield
This is a rather common occurance by shops that are either uneducated or
inexperienced with experimental aircraft. Sometimes it's also as a result
of naiive FSDO people as well. Basically the information provided to you i
s
completely false and not correct. The EFIS with it's encoder is just
fine....so is it's altimeter - assuming both will pass an IFR check. We
have our FAA Repair Station Certification and do a lot of said pitot static
and/or transponder checks on both certified and experimentals. Should be n
o
problem if you find the right people or right shop.
________________________________
Dell Deals: Don't miss huge summer savings on popular laptops starting at $
r=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566131%3B37864407%3Bi>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect |
Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
> I'm using an Advanced Flt Systems AF-3400 and it reads both devices.
> I've had external power (regulated power supply) connected to one
> battery and I was getting negative amp indications. So, with the
> power supply connected to the battery and electrical consumers turned
> on, the shunt/HE will show a negative amperage.
I am just starting the wiring on my AFS 3500 so I am probably confused,
but I thought the shunt and Hall Effect were mutually exclusive. I plan
to run both alternators (Z13/8) through the HE as shown on page 42 of
the AF3500 System Manual V5.3. Am I missing something?
John Morgensen
RV9A - wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading |
| From: | "mikef" <mikefapex(at)gmail.com> |
Hi,
I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display that can increment
numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like to build a 4 digit and 3 digit
versions, to represent pattern altitude and heading, respectively. Put it
in a small enclosure and mount on my dash.
Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments
Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go from 0 to 360,
then roll back over to zero (0).
I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is stone simple, but....
I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix and match to make this happen.
And while having googled lots of stuff, I am still unsure how to pick the right
parts to make this work. So if someone in the know could suggest the right
combination of parts it would be most appreciated.
Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But sweet jeeezus,
at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet cost maybe $50.
http://www.p2inc.com/skybuddy.asp
Thanks in advance!
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247702#247702
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect |
I'm wired for 13/8 and use the AFS3500's. I went with two shunts; one
FWF for the main alt and another cabin-side for the SD-8. I had the
main alt shunt reading negatively at first and only had to reverse the
wires to the AFS unit.
HTH
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: John Morgensen
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com ; Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall
Effect
Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
I'm using an Advanced Flt Systems AF-3400 and it reads both devices.
I've had external power (regulated power supply) connected to one
battery and I was getting negative amp indications. So, with the power
supply connected to the battery and electrical consumers turned on, the
shunt/HE will show a negative amperage.
I am just starting the wiring on my AFS 3500 so I am probably
confused, but I thought the shunt and Hall Effect were mutually
exclusive. I plan to run both alternators (Z13/8) through the HE as
shown on page 42 of the AF3500 System Manual V5.3. Am I missing
something?
John Morgensen
RV9A - wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Etienne Phillips <etienne.phillips(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading |
If I were looking at a similar project, I would consider using a
microprocessor, 7-segment LED displays (or a backlit LCD for good
sunlight readability), and two quadrature jogdials. It's not a simple
solution though, and I'd be hesitant to encourage you to attempt this
solution as a novice due to the combined software and hardware nature
of the microprocessor...
Total electronics cost (assuming you have all the required tools and
a programmer) in the order of $15, then you'll need an enclosure of
some sort. Maybe another $15-$20. Certainly do-able for waaaaay less
than $400.
Hope this inspires some other answers, hopefully with a simpler
solution that would make a good project for a beginner :-)
Etienne
Very simple from a hardware perspective, and the code for the
microprocessor is not too hard. However, I'm not a noob (BSc in
Electrical Engineering ;-) ), and I have all the required tools on hand!
On 11 Jun 2009, at 7:06 PM, mikef wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display
> that can increment numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like
> to build a 4 digit and 3 digit versions, to represent pattern
> altitude and heading, respectively. Put it in a small enclosure and
> mount on my dash.
>
> Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments
> Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go
> from 0 to 360, then roll back over to zero (0).
>
> I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is
> stone simple, but.... I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix
> and match to make this happen. And while having googled lots of
> stuff, I am still unsure how to pick the right parts to make this
> work. So if someone in the know could suggest the right combination
> of parts it would be most appreciated.
>
> Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But
> sweet jeeezus, at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet
> cost maybe $50.
>
> http://www.p2inc.com/skybuddy.asp
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Mike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247702#247702
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | GRETZ heated pitot tube |
Hi Guys
Has anyone cut off the LEDs from the control unit (of the Gretz heated
pitot tube product) and mounted it remotely, and then mounted the LEDs
on their own wires to the panel - if so: how did you get on, any
problems ???
Regards
John (England - RV9a wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | GRETZ heated pitot tube |
I'm confused on what you are attempting to accomplish.
The LEDs aren't on the control unit, they are on a separate circuit board.
This allows them to be remotely mounted. I would leave them on the board to
add more strength to the mounting point for the LEDS. There is nothing
magical about that circuit other than a resistor and LED. You should be
able to reverse engineer the traces by looking at the board. Or you could
just give Andrew at Angus Aviation a call. Just remember that he's
fourteen hours ahead of us.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN
TIPTON
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 3:51 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GRETZ heated pitot tube
Hi Guys
Has anyone cut off the LEDs from the control unit (of the Gretz heated pitot
tube product) and mounted it remotely, and then mounted the LEDs on their
own wires to the panel - if so: how did you get on, any problems ???
Regards
John (England - RV9a wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading |
| From: | "mikef" <mikefapex(at)gmail.com> |
Etienne,
Thanks for your note. It is educational. I'll keep the info in mind.
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247727#247727
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading |
At 12:06 PM 6/11/2009, you wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display that
>can increment numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like to
>build a 4 digit and 3 digit versions, to represent pattern altitude
>and heading, respectively. Put it in a small enclosure and mount on my dash.
>
>Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments
>Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go
>from 0 to 360, then roll back over to zero (0).
>
>I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is stone
>simple, but.... I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix and
>match to make this happen. And while having googled lots of stuff, I
>am still unsure how to pick the right parts to make this work. So if
>someone in the know could suggest the right combination of parts it
>would be most appreciated.
>
>Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But
>sweet jeeezus, at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet
>cost maybe $50.
If all you're wanting is a reminder why go
electronic. Pure mechanical works too. See:
http://tinyurl.com/mpjq8u
In years past I've seen installations of thumbwheel
switches mounted to allow dialing in a number to
be prompted. No electronics required.
What you're wanting to do would take quite a bit
of time . . . that $400 price for a low
volume product was probably not all that
outrageous.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube |
Yes: I meant the separate circuit board: it does seem to be a lot of
weight (relatively) to hang on the three LEDs
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: GRETZ heated pitot tube
I'm confused on what you are attempting to accomplish.
The LEDs aren't on the control unit, they are on a separate circuit
board. This allows them to be remotely mounted. I would leave them on
the board to add more strength to the mounting point for the LEDS.
There is nothing magical about that circuit other than a resistor and
LED. You should be able to reverse engineer the traces by looking at
the board. Or you could just give Andrew at Angus Aviation a call.
Just remember that he's fourteen hours ahead of us.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN
TIPTON
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 3:51 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GRETZ heated pitot tube
Hi Guys
Has anyone cut off the LEDs from the control unit (of the Gretz heated
pitot tube product) and mounted it remotely, and then mounted the LEDs
on their own wires to the panel - if so: how did you get on, any
problems ???
Regards
John (England - RV9a wings)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-Listhttp://forums.matroni
cs.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
John,
I eliminated the Gretz LED's and mounting board altogether. Replaced them with
3 new LED's epoxied from the back of my panel, and wired without the mounting
board. Works fine.
Jim Berry
RV10
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247739#247739
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
| From: | "Craig Winkelmann" <capav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Recently had my Blue Mountain Sport (new install) calibrated and certified. Not
an issue.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247760#247760
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading |
| From: | Mike Fontenot <mikef(at)apexconsultingservices.com> |
Bob,
That is a good idea. Thanks!
Mike
On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 3:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 12:06 PM 6/11/2009, you wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am interested in building a simple, small, bright LCD display that can
> increment numbers with the twist of a knob. I would like to build a 4 digit
> and 3 digit versions, to represent pattern altitude and heading,
> respectively. Put it in a small enclosure and mount on my dash.
>
> Pattern altitude - knob changes in 100' increments
> Heading - knob changes in 10 degree increments. Would be nice to go from 0
> to 360, then roll back over to zero (0).
>
> I know you knowledgeable electronics guys are thinking this is stone
> simple, but.... I'm a noob. I don't know which parts to mix and match to
> make this happen. And while having googled lots of stuff, I am still unsure
> how to pick the right parts to make this work. So if someone in the know
> could suggest the right combination of parts it would be most appreciated.
>
> Here is a commercial version that inspired my request here. But sweet
> jeeezus, at $400 that is just plain outrageous for what I bet cost maybe
> $50.
>
>
> If all you're wanting is a reminder why go
> electronic. Pure mechanical works too. See:
>
> * http://tinyurl.com/mpjq8u*
>
> In years past I've seen installations of thumbwheel
> switches mounted to allow dialing in a number to
> be prompted. No electronics required.
>
> What you're wanting to do would take quite a bit
> of time . . . that $400 price for a low
> volume product was probably not all that
> outrageous.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Mike
===============================
Mike Fontenot
Apex Consulting & Services LLC
Lakewood, Colorado
303 / 731-6645
mikef AT apexconsultingservices DOT com
===============================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
mprather(at)spro.net wrote:
> Interesting..
>
> Can you see what in the instrument is fried? Is it a component connected
> to the V+ or from the signal/sensor (or something else)?
>
> The resistor on +ve Voltage into instrument burned
>
> I assume the 14.2V value is measured on the instrument supply (V+)
> terminal. Can you compare this with the voltage at the bus.
>
> Yes, was same.
>
> Can you measure the voltage drop between the instrument (display) ground
> and the engine ground (with the engine running)? I understand that all of
> the connections appear solid.
>
> I will do this. I think it was same.
>
> Have you done any recent maintenance or mods?
>
> No
>
> Thanks for taking time to answer..
>
> Regards,
>
> Matt-
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Well I'm stumped....my simple RV8, basic analog instruments only, Nipon
> > Denso 40 amp Alternator, Oddeysey battery, worked well for 200 hours.
> >
> > Saturday Volt Meter burned (resistor on circuit board overheated and
> > melted case), then Oil Temperature gauge did same thing, now today while
> > testing Manifold Pressure full of smoke.
> >
> > I have;
> > -checked - no loose wires found ground or power.
> > -Good Battery-engine-ground (heavy cable, short runs, tight connections.)
> > -Good bus connections (one central ground bus located at firewall)
> > -14.2 Volts on meter at gauges while running, but instruments overheat.
> > -12+ volts on meter when engine stopped, instruments seem not to overheat.
> > -Removed alternator and took to shop for evaluation....tested on stand and
> > found good output and diodes.
> >
> >
> > Anybody got a next step? Nice weather........need to fly
> > George
> >
> > --------
> > Jake
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 47617#247617
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247770#247770
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
Just an update ...thanks to those who answered;
I have performed no modifications except annual inspection and wash.
The instruments burn up the resistor on the +ve supply into the circuit board inside
instruments. The 14.2 V is at instrument. Fooling around measuring power
to ground at many places seems very consistent.
The ambient temperature is not too high (especially compared to you guys in Southern
US).
On osciloscope today, we found .004 V AC in the alternator current. This seems
pretty low to me?
Nothing else currently having problems.
Today we also removed the battery -ve cable cleaned it and put it to engine where
we connected the cable to the firewall ground post. All cables are # 2 and
about 18" long.
I did notice the negative post on the battery moves just ever so slightly as I
tightened the post back on, not very much just enough to notice.
I also see the alternator is spinning at top of the rated RPM, but easily within
the 10% the alternator shop taked of.
Thanks again you guys.
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247771#247771
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
6/12/2009
Hello Frank, You wrote: "Why pay twice if you don't have to?"
I agree. To determine if a flight without a transponder is legal go to 14
CFR 91.215.
Also note that permission for a flight without a transponder can be obtained
as described in 91.215 (d).
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
====================================================
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: IFR Certification
Don't if it was legal but I didn't do a VFR cert..I just labeled the Transp
onder "Inooperative" and flew it to get the IFR cert done...Why pay twice i
f you don't have to?
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IFR Certification |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
My BMA system has served as my encoder for my Mode C for 5 years
in the NYC area. Islip Avionics had absolutely no issue with the certifications.
If the boss at your local shop does not understand the
regulations pertaining to OBAM aircraft, find another shop. Especially,
since they would, if they finally elect to do the work, would take twice
as long and charge twice as much!
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247812#247812
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube |
Just what I had in mind: but using some chrome bezels (which are available
for LEDs) for easy replacement of the LEDs if needed
Regards: John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 11:53 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: GRETZ heated pitot tube
>
> John,
>
> I eliminated the Gretz LED's and mounting board altogether. Replaced them
> with 3 new LED's epoxied from the back of my panel, and wired without the
> mounting board. Works fine.
>
> Jim Berry
> RV10
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247739#247739
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Butler <andrewbutler(at)ireland.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect |
Hi John,
When I received my 3500, I received only the Hall Effect sensor that I ordered
extra. I have two power supplies and looking at the manual I figured that the
both must go through the HE sensor (there are two wires in the photograph and
there was no shunt in the box). Just to make sure I contacted AFS. They said that
each power supply should be measured separately, and that the shunt was left
out by mistake. They shipped it the same day.
I installed the shunt for the main alt firewall forward (Z13/8), with the HE sensor
for my SD-8 placed behind the panel just in front of the firewall. Haven't
fired up the engine yet though.
Andrew
RV7, EI-EEO
Galway, Ireland.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Sent: Thursday, 11 June, 2009 6:08:14 PM GMT +00:00 GMT Britain, Ireland, Portugal
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect
I'm wired for 13/8 and use the AFS3500's. I went with two shunts; one FWF for the
main alt and another cabin-side for the SD-8. I had the main alt shunt reading
negatively at first and only had to reverse the wires to the AFS unit.
HTH
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: John Morgensen
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Reverse flow in Shunt and Hall Effect
Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
I'm using an Advanced Flt Systems AF-3400 and it reads both devices. I've had external
power (regulated power supply) connected to one battery and I was getting
negative amp indications. So, with the power supply connected to the battery
and electrical consumers turned on, the shunt/HE will show a negative amperage.
I am just starting the wiring on my AFS 3500 so I am probably confused, but
I thought the shunt and Hall Effect were mutually exclusive. I plan to run
both alternators (Z13/8) through the HE as shown on page 42 of the AF3500 System
Manual V5.3. Am I missing something?
John Morgensen
RV9A - wiring
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
6/13/2009
Hello Ira, You wrote: "If the boss at your local shop does not understand
the
regulations pertaining to OBAM aircraft, find another shop."
I agree that finding another shop is the best way to resolve this situation.
However outright condemnation of the boss for "not understand(ing) the
regulations pertaining to OBAM aircraft" is not warranted.
1) The issue is not OBAM (amateur built experimental aircraft) versus
standard type certificated aircraft.
2) 14 CFR 91.217 applies equally to both of those kinds of aircraft.
3) The fundamental issue relates to TSO'd versus non TSO'd altitude
encoders.
4) Note that 91.217 applies to flight under VFR as well as flight under IFR.
5) Headquarters FAA is in agreement with the boss's position of not
approving a non TSO'd altitude encoder unless the tests required by 14 CFR
paragraph 91.217 (b) have been accomplished.
6) FAA Headquaters says that the tests required by 91.217 (b) are far more
complex and demanding than the tests required by 91.411 and the associated
appendicies of 14 CFR part 43.
7) Some people dispute FAA Headquarters position on this issue, but no one
to date has adequately challenged them to change their position.
8) My current recommendations on this issue are:
A) Understand the issues. (Hence this posting to you and fellow builders).
B) Let sleeping dogs lie because if FAA Headquarers really tried to enforce
their position it would cause chaos in the amateur built community because
of the large number of non TSO'd altitude encoders already flying, being
built into aircraft, and being manufactured.
Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
=============================================
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: IFR Certification
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
My BMA system has served as my encoder for my Mode C for 5 years
in the NYC area. Islip Avionics had absolutely no issue with the
certifications.
If the boss at your local shop does not understand the
regulations pertaining to OBAM aircraft, find another shop. Especially,
since they would, if they finally elect to do the work, would take twice
as long and charge twice as much!
--------
Ira N224XS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
The description you provided sounds like what would occur when a
much higher than spec'ed voltage was applied to your engine
instruments, not thousands of volts but hundreds (at extreme
voltages most resistors would vaporize) and long enough for some heat to
be transmitted to the plastic case.
This does not sound like a ground problem since a poor ground
would REDUCE the current through the resistor.
Are these gauges lit? Is the light still ok? is it drive from the same
bus or through some type of dimmer?
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247959#247959
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help with LCD Circuit Design - Altitude & Heading |
| From: | John McMahon <blackoaks(at)gmail.com> |
along those lines, cheap, simple, but unlighted-
*Sort By* * Relevance*<http://sportys.com/pilotshop/pages/search.cfm?searc
hword=reminder&field=myranking&sort=desc>
*Price:* [Low-High]<http://sportys.com/pilotshop/pages/search.cfm?searchwor
d=reminder&field=price&sort=asc>
[High-Low]<http://sportys.com/pilotshop/pages/search.cfm?searchword=remin
der&field=price&sort=desc>
*Alphabetical:*
[A-Z]<http://sportys.com/pilotshop/pages/search.cfm?searchword=reminder&f
ield=producttitle&sort=asc>
[Z-A]<http://sportys.com/pilotshop/pages/search.cfm?searchword=reminder&f
ield=producttitle&sort=desc>
*10 result(s) for reminder*
<http://sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&did=19&product_id=1175> Altitude
Reminder <http://sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&did=19&product_id=1175>
This extremely simple but effective altitude reminder is great insurance
against pilot error. Better than writing altitudes=97safer than trusting
y.....
7035A - $11.95 <http://sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&did=19&product_id=
1175>
http://sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&did=19&product_id=1175
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bakerocb(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | IFR Certification |
6/14/2009
Hello Ira, Thanks for your input. You wrote:
1) "For VFR into B, C airspace the BMA should be fine according to my
reading of the regs."
Note that the wording of 14 CFR 91.217 makes no distinction between the
requirement for either a TSO'd altitude encoder (91.217 (c)) or a tested
altitude encoder (91.217 (b)) for mode C operations (automatic pressure
altitude reporting equipment) under IFR or VFR.
Further, no class of airspace is excluded from the requirements of 91.217 by
the wording therein.
Can you cite some regulation that says otherwise?
2) "I treated my airframe to a brand new Sandia SAE5-35 TSO'd blind
encoder."
A valid solution. When people have attempted to get the assistance of EAA to
change / clarify FAA Headquarter's position on this subject that is what EAA
has recommended -- just install a TSO'd altitude encoder.
'OC' Says: "The best investment we can make is the effort to gather and
understand knowledge."
===============================================
Subject: Avionics-List: Re: IFR Certification
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Actually I didn't condemn the boss, I simply referenced the boss
as the key to the problem. I am familiar with the issues you raised
which is why when finally got IFR certification for myself, I treated
my airframe to a brand new Sandia SAE5-35 TSO'd blind encoder.
For VFR into B, C airspace the BMA should be fine according to my
reading of the regs.
--------
Ira N224XS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Barrow <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
As others have suggested=2C it does seem like Z14 is my best option as I ha
ve the L40 and SD20 already installed and I have 2 off LR3 regulators. Too
much trouble and expense to go sending back things to B&C for exchange now
from Australia.
So I have purchased a second Odyssey AGM battery=2C in this case a PC310 wh
ich is 7AH and weighs very little (2.7kg).
Do you foresee of any problems with running the SD20 with the PC310 on the
secondary bus.
Cheers Bob
Date: Wed=2C 10 Jun 2009 08:07:28 -0500
From: nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Z12 questions
At 07:22 AM 6/10/2009=2C you wrote:
Date: Tue=2C 9 Jun 2009 15:20:29 -0500
From: nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z12 questions
> Yes=2C you can run both alternators together but
>getting them to share proportionately is difficult
>without special paralleling regulators.
Bob=2C what exactly happens with architecture Z12 (with specifically one L
R3 and one SB-1 regulator) if you keep turning on major loads (pitot=2C lan
ding lights=2C etc) until the primary L40 alternator can no longer cope and
the voltage sags. Will the SD20 come on and run concurrently. I presume it
will... until some of the loads are shed..but from your comment above it
may not be a happy event over time. Can you please elaborate on this. Is it
possible that one or both of the alternators (or the regulators) could be
damaged if both alternators are running concurrently in Z12.
I'm trying to work out whether with Z12 I need to ensure that my primary al
ternator is never pushed beyond its capacity (ie swap the L40 for an L60).
The "sharing" scenario you described is correct
when the SD-20 is regulated by the SB-1 and the
aux alternator setpoint is about 1 volt lower than
the main alternator.
As long as your main alternator is adequately
cooled=2C there is no risk of damage to the main
alternator. I was curious as to what kind of loads
you are anticipating that would require over
30A of continuous engine driven power.
For example=2C you wouldn't have any exterior lights
on along with pitot heat.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong=2C gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
_________________________________________________________________
Looking for a new car this winter? Let us help with car news=2C reviews and
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Z12 questions |
| From: | "rckol" <rckol(at)kaehlers.com> |
Jim,
I am not Bob, but will offer a response based on my own study.
In both the Z-12 and Z-14 architectures, your SB-20 can be connected to any and
all electrical devices on the ship. In the event that you loose your big alternator,
it is up to you to manage your electrical usage to keep your consumption
within with your means (batteries + SB-20).
In this scenario, the advantage of the SB-1 is that it can provide you with an
indication that you are reaching the current capacity of the alternator with an
indicator light.
With the LR-3, you are going to have to monitor this with an ammeter or load meter.
--------
rck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248033#248033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Z12 questions |
Not positive what you are asking Bob but I'm approaching 300 hours with
a 20 amp permanent magnet alternator and an 8AH battery as the second
part of a Z-14 system. I run the strobes and a few things off that
system and everything else off the other battery and 40 amp ND
alternator. The voltage starts to sag a bit if you draw much more than
20 amps of course. The system works very well for my purposes.
Both my batteries are 8AH and they auto parallel for cranking. That way
I can still crank the electric dependent geared engine even if a battery
is dead and the engine has stopped windmilling.
Ken
Bob Barrow wrote:
> As others have suggested, it does seem like Z14 is my best option as I
> have the L40 and SD20 already installed and I have 2 off LR3 regulators.
> Too much trouble and expense to go sending back things to B&C for
> exchange now from Australia.
>
> So I have purchased a second Odyssey AGM battery, in this case a PC310
> which is 7AH and weighs very little (2.7kg).
>
> Do you foresee of any problems with running the SD20 with the PC310 on
> the secondary bus.
>
> Cheers Bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <r.r.hall(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Is there a way to have part 14V and part 28V? |
I have the opportunity to get some flight instruments from an acquaintance that
is upgrading. The problem is they are all 28V. is there a way to have a part
28V and part 14V panel?
Rodney Hall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David LLoyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is there a way to have part 14V and part 28V? |
Rodney,
Many small 14 to 28 v. converters are available for that purpose.
Example.... when Garmin first came out with their 430 Navigator, their
marketing plan was to capture most\all of the new aircraft OEM market.
Great way to knock off King dominance. That meant they were designed for 28
v. In an older 14 v. aircraft you had to have an approved converter
installed along with the 430. Garmin was smart enough to just have such an
"approved unit. That is the way my C185D was done to get an early 430
installed as my main GPS Navigator. In homebuilts, the converter does not
have to have the mass of paperwork approvals required and you should be able
to find a good one for 1/10th what I was forced to pay.
David
Just make sure
----- Original Message -----
From: <r.r.hall(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 3:17 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Is there a way to have part 14V and part 28V?
>
> I have the opportunity to get some flight instruments from an acquaintance
> that is upgrading. The problem is they are all 28V. is there a way to have
> a part 28V and part 14V panel?
>
> Rodney Hall
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Is there a way to have part 14V and part 28V? |
Sure, I recently did it for my Navion's engine conversion. I got a 14v to
28v converter to feed a 28v bus just for the engine instruments. I had to
use a holy watered part. Even for a relatively small power rating (~5a was
all I needed) it was big, heavy and not cheap. But if it's worth it to you
it's not a big deal.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of r.r.hall(at)cox.net
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 5:17 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Is there a way to have part 14V
> and part 28V?
>
>
> I have the opportunity to get some flight instruments from an
> acquaintance that is upgrading. The problem is they are all
> 28V. is there a way to have a part 28V and part 14V panel?
>
> Rodney Hall
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 08:29 AM 6/14/2009, you wrote:
>As others have suggested, it does seem like Z14 is my best option as
>I have the L40 and SD20 already installed and I have 2 off LR3
>regulators. Too much trouble and expense to go sending back things
>to B&C for exchange now from Australia.
>
>So I have purchased a second Odyssey AGM battery, in this case a
>PC310 which is 7AH and weighs very little (2.7kg).
>
>Do you foresee of any problems with running the SD20 with the PC310
>on the secondary bus.
>
>Cheers Bob
No problems at all.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I am finishing up the installation of my external power receptacle.
Just to be totally sure, please verify that the orange lead from the OVM14 is the
positive lead and goes on the left terminal of the smaller posts on the contactor?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248300#248300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning up Vans Engine Gauges - Part Two. |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
IRA
Thanks for reply....gauges are lit, but I kept the power and grounds for them completely
separate so I could eliminate them if problems developed. (I hate cabin
lighting in a VFR ship.) Tomorrow I will check lights dimmers and grounds
as you suggest.
Today I find that when I transmit on VHF the manifold pressure drops to "zero",
then returns when PTT released. I recall it has done that before...tomorrow
I will see if something is wrong there. (Radio has separate power and ground
bus too....mabe PPP ?)
Thanks again.....appreciate any and all suggestions!
Jake
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248373#248373
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 02:24 PM 6/15/2009, you wrote:
>
>I am finishing up the installation of my external power receptacle.
>
>Just to be totally sure, please verify that the orange lead from the
>OVM14 is the positive lead and goes on the left terminal of the
>smaller posts on the contactor?
Yes, the non-black lead is (+). The exact color
was changed to identify mod levels in the construction.
Don't know about the "left" terminal. The (+) lead
of the crowbar module goes to the (+) supply termnial
of the contactor . . . the black lead goes to the
terminal that is connected to the ground power control
breaker.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | New from Harbor Freight |
I received a flyer from Harbor Freight yesterday, and one of the items
in it was a new "borescope" that was priced down from $139 (on their
website) to $99.99 in the local stores.
So, knowing that I would need one soon to exam the inside of my fuel
tanks when I get the holes for the fuel filler assembly cut (and who
knows what other little holes I'd have to inspect), I went down and
bought it.
I bought it...it was much better than I expected, and a lot more solid
than other Harbor Freight items I bought in the past. The first thing I
noticed was that it was very well packaged in a semi-rigid plastic
container. I'll use that to store it in.
I think it has a lot of neat features (in addition to the price), so I
thought I'd pass it on to you people in case you are looking for a tool
to examine those hard to view places as well.
The camera/light source head is 5/8 inch in diameter...the flexible
shaft is 3 feet long. The camera, flex shaft and mounting head on the
handle are attached with o-rings and are claimed to be water proof. The
whole thing (including the monitor) has a nice solid feel to it and
appears to be pretty rugged. Not the usual thin plastic like the Chinese
stuff often is.
The length of the camera head before it starts to be bendable may be a
problem for some applications though, as even though the camera and
it's fitting itself is only a little less than 3 inches in length, it
needs 4-1/2 inches of clearance straight in to get a full bend in the
flexible shaft. An application like this would be a good place to use
the 45 degree mirror attachment that comes with it that I mention below.
The monitor/display is in color, has adjustable brightness (in addition
to the LED light source brightness adjustments), contrast and
orientation (rotates the image in four steps) and can be removed easily
from the handle and remoted as it uses a wireless connection to the
camera. It also has a video output. It's cable has a standard RCA
connector on the end so you can input it to any device that will accept
a composite video input for recording or viewing on a larger screen.
The camera and LEDs runs on 4 AA batteries in the handle, and the
monitor has a rechargeable lithium ion battery. It comes with the
charger as well. It has three attachments that fit over the camera head
...a mirror, a magnet and a pick. So you can hunt down and move or pick
up things you find in those deep dark holes.
It uses super bright LEDs for the camera's light source, and the light
level is adjustable through a trigger on the handle. The camera does
pretty good in low light as well...I was viewing items in my house this
morning without using the LEDs.
You can see it online here:
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
And the manual is here:
www.harborfreight.com/manuals/66000-66999/66550.pdf
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
Canandaigua, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
Oops...I broke the link!
Here's the link to the borescope itself...remember, it was only $99.99
in the store here in Henrietta.
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=66550&Submit=Go
The manual's link was OK...
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harley wrote:
> I received a flyer from Harbor Freight yesterday, and one of the items
> in it was a new "borescope" that was priced down from $139 (on their
> website) to $99.99 in the local stores.
>
> So, knowing that I would need one soon to exam the inside of my fuel
> tanks when I get the holes for the fuel filler assembly cut (and who
> knows what other little holes I'd have to inspect), I went down and
> bought it.
>
> I bought it...it was much better than I expected, and a lot more solid
> than other Harbor Freight items I bought in the past. The first thing
> I noticed was that it was very well packaged in a semi-rigid plastic
> container. I'll use that to store it in.
>
> I think it has a lot of neat features (in addition to the price), so I
> thought I'd pass it on to you people in case you are looking for a
> tool to examine those hard to view places as well.
>
> The camera/light source head is 5/8 inch in diameter...the flexible
> shaft is 3 feet long. The camera, flex shaft and mounting head on the
> handle are attached with o-rings and are claimed to be water proof.
> The whole thing (including the monitor) has a nice solid feel to it
> and appears to be pretty rugged. Not the usual thin plastic like the
> Chinese stuff often is.
>
> The length of the camera head before it starts to be bendable may be a
> problem for some applications though, as even though the camera and
> it's fitting itself is only a little less than 3 inches in length, it
> needs 4-1/2 inches of clearance straight in to get a full bend in the
> flexible shaft. An application like this would be a good place to use
> the 45 degree mirror attachment that comes with it that I mention below.
>
> The monitor/display is in color, has adjustable brightness (in
> addition to the LED light source brightness adjustments), contrast and
> orientation (rotates the image in four steps) and can be removed
> easily from the handle and remoted as it uses a wireless connection to
> the camera. It also has a video output. It's cable has a standard
> RCA connector on the end so you can input it to any device that will
> accept a composite video input for recording or viewing on a larger
> screen.
>
> The camera and LEDs runs on 4 AA batteries in the handle, and the
> monitor has a rechargeable lithium ion battery. It comes with the
> charger as well. It has three attachments that fit over the camera
> head ...a mirror, a magnet and a pick. So you can hunt down and move
> or pick up things you find in those deep dark holes.
>
> It uses super bright LEDs for the camera's light source, and the light
> level is adjustable through a trigger on the handle. The camera does
> pretty good in low light as well...I was viewing items in my house
> this morning without using the LEDs.
>
> You can see it online here:
> www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
>
> And the manual is here:
> www.harborfreight.com/manuals/66000-66999/66550.pdf
>
> Harley Dixon
> Long EZ N28EZ
> Canandaigua, NY*
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net> |
Does anyone have any experience with the Tyco Rocker type
switch/breaker?
They are specified in the Digi-Key PTM as "secondary breakers", which
must
be backed up by a branch circuit breaker or fuse
http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/TycoElectronicsPB/CircuitBreakers_NoAud
io/
CircuitBreakers_NoAudio.html.
This would seem to defeat the purpose of having the breaker in the first
place. What am I missing?
Ken Howell
Glenwood, MD
RV-7 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
Harley, when I try to order the item it comes up at $139.95 that is
the regular price, but the sale price does not come up. Is the item
still on sale?
Jim streit
Harley wrote:
>
> Oops...I broke the link!
>
> Here's the link to the borescope itself...remember, it was only $99.99
> in the store here in Henrietta.
>
> www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=66550&Submit=Go
>
> The manual's link was OK...
>
> Harley
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Harley wrote:
>> I received a flyer from Harbor Freight yesterday, and one of the
>> items in it was a new "borescope" that was priced down from $139 (on
>> their website) to $99.99 in the local stores.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
It was $99.99 in the store...$139 on the website...note at the bottom of
the listing on the website, it says: "Prices on our website may or may
not be current prices in our stores"
I first saw it for the $99.99 price in a flyer that Harbor Freight sent
two days ago.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Streit wrote:
> Harley, when I try to order the item it comes up at $139.95 that is
> the regular price, but the sale price does not come up. Is the item
> still on sale?
>
> Jim streit
>
>
> Harley wrote:
>>
>>
>> Oops...I broke the link!
>>
>> Here's the link to the borescope itself...remember, it was only
>> $99.99 in the store here in Henrietta.
>>
>> www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=66550&Submit=Go
>>
>>
>> The manual's link was OK...
>>
>> Harley
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Harley wrote:
>>> I received a flyer from Harbor Freight yesterday, and one of the
>>> items in it was a new "borescope" that was priced down from $139 (on
>>> their website) to $99.99 in the local stores.
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
At 01:03 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
>
>It was $99.99 in the store...$139 on the website...note at the
>bottom of the listing on the website, it says: "Prices on our
>website may or may not be current prices in our stores"
A gentleman at the local HF store explained that
their merchandising is handled through three
somewhat exclusive channels. The catalog sales,
website sales and storefront sales are different
pipes and may have differences in prices and
products offered.
On occasion, I've been to the local store with
a catalog in hand where the catalog price was
lower than the store price . . . they readily
offered the product at the lower price. But
sale prices in the stores are not tightly tied
to the catalog or website offerings.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 01:03 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>> I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
>>
>> It was $99.99 in the store...$139 on the website...note at the bottom
>> of the listing on the website, it says: "Prices on our website may or
>> may not be current prices in our stores"
>
> A gentleman at the local HF store explained that
> their merchandising is handled through three
> somewhat exclusive channels. The catalog sales,
> website sales and storefront sales are different
> pipes and may have differences in prices and
> products offered.
>
> On occasion, I've been to the local store with
> a catalog in hand where the catalog price was
> lower than the store price . . . they readily
> offered the product at the lower price. But
> sale prices in the stores are not tightly tied
> to the catalog or website offerings.
>
> Bob . . .
>
A gentleman in another forum I belong to mentioned that Ridgid has the
same thing...so...
A search for "color inspection cameras" comes up with several different
brand names, and ALL of them are identical. Looks like this is one of
those cases where China makes it and sells it to everyone who wants to
market one, putting their own brand name on them. The prices for this
unit vary from as high as $450 for the 4UCAM model, to Harbor Freight's
$99. The average appears to be around $250. Dollars to donuts, Harbor
Freight is getting them from the same company that is making them for
Ridgid.
http://tinyurl.com/mw5yug
http://tinyurl.com/nskvv5
Also one of the accessories available for it is a 9.5 mm camera to
replace the 17mm one that comes with it (the camera and flexible cable
plug into the same hand unit). That size WILL fit in a spark plug hole!
It also says that the smaller camera has a shorter focal distance for
closer and smaller work.
http://tinyurl.com/makor3
I'll bet that it fits the HF model perfectly! Know I now why the unit
felt so substantial and "un-Harbor Freight-Like" when I opened up the
package! It was probably designed for Ridgid!
Now if we can only get HF to sell that smaller camera accessory...if
they ever do, it'll prolly be for $9.99 or so!
Harley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Curry" <don.curry(at)inbox.com> |
| Subject: | New from Harbor Freight |
Harley,
Could you cut/paste the coupon (if it was a coupon sale) or the flier? I
searched my HF emails and couldn't find the item, but if I had a
coupon/flier, the local store would honor it. Thanks, Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server=40matronics.com
=5Bmailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server=40matronics.com=5D On Behalf Of
Harley
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: New from Harbor Freight
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
At 01:03 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
It was =2499.99 in the store...=24139 on the website...note at the bottom
of the
listing on the website, it says: =22Prices on our website may or may not be
current prices in our stores=22
A gentleman at the local HF store explained that
their merchandising is handled through three
somewhat exclusive channels. The catalog sales,
website sales and storefront sales are different
pipes and may have differences in prices and
products offered.
On occasion, I've been to the local store with
a catalog in hand where the catalog price was
lower than the store price . . . they readily
offered the product at the lower price. But
sale prices in the stores are not tightly tied
to the catalog or website offerings.
Bob . . .
A gentleman in another forum I belong to mentioned that Ridgid has the same
thing...so...
A search for =22color inspection cameras=22 comes up with several different
brand names, and ALL of them are identical. Looks like this is one of those
cases where China makes it and sells it to everyone who wants to market one,
putting their own brand name on them. The prices for this unit vary from as
high as =24450 for the 4UCAM model, to Harbor Freight's =2499. The average
appears to be around =24250. Dollars to donuts, Harbor Freight is getting
them from the same company that is making them for Ridgid.
http://tinyurl.com/mw5yug
http://tinyurl.com/nskvv5
Also one of the accessories available for it is a 9.5 mm camera to replace
the 17mm one that comes with it (the camera and flexible cable plug into the
same hand unit). That size WILL fit in a spark plug hole=21 It also says
that
the smaller camera has a shorter focal distance for closer and smaller work.
http://tinyurl.com/makor3
I'll bet that it fits the HF model perfectly=21 Know I now why the unit
felt
so substantial and =22un-Harbor Freight-Like=22 when I opened up the
package=21
It was probably designed for Ridgid=21
Now if we can only get HF to sell that smaller camera accessory...if they
ever do, it'll prolly be for =249.99 or so=21
Harley
____________________________________________________________
FREE 3D EARTH SCREENSAVER - Watch the Earth right on your desktop=21
Check it out at http://www.inbox.com/earth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
>>but if I had a coupon/flier, the local store would honor it.<<
Yep, they are great that way! I've done that myself in the past.
However, it wasn't a coupon sale...it was in the Fourth of July
flier...you may not have received it yet! I just got mine yesterday.
The price in the store scanned as $99.99, so it was in their computer as
that price...no coupon or flier needed. However...
I took the flier with me in case they didn't have the current price, and
ran into another gentleman who was trying to convince the cashier that
he saw the price of ANOTHER item for less but he didn't have the flier
with him. So, I gave him mine!
So, sorry, I don't have it (but neither did the store yet...the store
manager here said that they usually get the fliers that are mailed to
the customers a few days after the customers get them.)
If you don't get one by Monday next week, or your local store doesn't
have it by then, let me know and I'll see if I can dig one up locally.
HF is only about 5 minutes from me here.
BTW...in further research, I discovered that that inspection camera is a
Ridgid, and is last year's model that is being sold by the manufacturer
in China under a bunch of other brand names now that Ridgid's is a bit
different (use the same camera head and cable for both, though.)
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don Curry wrote:
>
> Harley,
>
> Could you cut/paste the coupon (if it was a coupon sale) or the
> flier? I searched my HF emails and couldn't find the item, but if I
> had a coupon/flier, the local store would honor it. Thanks, Don
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Harley
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 5:14 PM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: New from Harbor Freight
>
>
>
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> At 01:03 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>
> I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
>
> It was $99.99 in the store...$139 on the website...note at the bottom
> of the listing on the website, it says: "Prices on our website may or
> may not be current prices in our stores"
>
>
> A gentleman at the local HF store explained that
> their merchandising is handled through three
> somewhat exclusive channels. The catalog sales,
> website sales and storefront sales are different
> pipes and may have differences in prices and
> products offered.
>
> On occasion, I've been to the local store with
> a catalog in hand where the catalog price was
> lower than the store price . . . they readily
> offered the product at the lower price. But
> sale prices in the stores are not tightly tied
> to the catalog or website offerings.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> A gentleman in another forum I belong to mentioned that Ridgid has the
> same thing...so...
>
> A search for "color inspection cameras" comes up with several
> different brand names, and ALL of them are identical. Looks like this
> is one of those cases where China makes it and sells it to everyone
> who wants to market one, putting their own brand name on them. The
> prices for this unit vary from as high as $450 for the 4UCAM model, to
> Harbor Freight's $99. The average appears to be around $250. Dollars
> to donuts, Harbor Freight is getting them from the same company that
> is making them for Ridgid.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/mw5yug
> http://tinyurl.com/nskvv5
>
> Also one of the accessories available for it is a 9.5 mm camera to
> replace the 17mm one that comes with it (the camera and flexible cable
> plug into the same hand unit). That size WILL fit in a spark plug
> hole! It also says that the smaller camera has a shorter focal
> distance for closer and smaller work.
> http://tinyurl.com/makor3
>
> I'll bet that it fits the HF model perfectly! Know I now why the unit
> felt so substantial and "un-Harbor Freight-Like" when I opened up the
> package! It was probably designed for Ridgid!
>
> Now if we can only get HF to sell that smaller camera accessory...if
> they ever do, it'll prolly be for $9.99 or so!
>
> Harley
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 3D Earth Screensaver Preview <http://www.inbox.com/earth>
> *Free 3D Earth Screensaver*
> Watch the Earth right on your desktop! Check it out at
> www.inbox.com/earth <http://www.inbox.com/earth>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pitot heat wire gauge |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Can anyone offer an appropriate wire size to prewire for pitot heat, probably the
Dynon unit?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248548#248548
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Thomas <lists(at)stevet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
How long was the price good for?
Steve Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
On Jun 16, 2009, at 3:00 PM, Don Curry wrote:
> Harley,
> Could you cut/paste the coupon (if it was a coupon sale) or the
> flier? I searched my HF emails and couldn=92t find the item, but if I
> had a coupon/flier, the local store would honor it. Thanks, Don
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Harley
> Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 5:14 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: New from Harbor Freight
>
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 01:03 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>
> I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
>
> It was $99.99 in the store...$139 on the website...note at the
> bottom of the listing on the website, it says: "Prices on our
> website may or may not be current prices in our stores"
>
> A gentleman at the local HF store explained that
> their merchandising is handled through three
> somewhat exclusive channels. The catalog sales,
> website sales and storefront sales are different
> pipes and may have differences in prices and
> products offered.
>
> On occasion, I've been to the local store with
> a catalog in hand where the catalog price was
> lower than the store price . . . they readily
> offered the product at the lower price. But
> sale prices in the stores are not tightly tied
> to the catalog or website offerings.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> A gentleman in another forum I belong to mentioned that Ridgid has
> the same thing...so...
>
> A search for "color inspection cameras" comes up with several
> different brand names, and ALL of them are identical. Looks like
> this is one of those cases where China makes it and sells it to
> everyone who wants to market one, putting their own brand name on
> them. The prices for this unit vary from as high as $450 for the
> 4UCAM model, to Harbor Freight's $99. The average appears to be
> around $250. Dollars to donuts, Harbor Freight is getting them from
> the same company that is making them for Ridgid.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/mw5yug
> http://tinyurl.com/nskvv5
>
> Also one of the accessories available for it is a 9.5 mm camera to
> replace the 17mm one that comes with it (the camera and flexible
> cable plug into the same hand unit). That size WILL fit in a spark
> plug hole! It also says that the smaller camera has a shorter focal
> distance for closer and smaller work.
> http://tinyurl.com/makor3
>
> I'll bet that it fits the HF model perfectly! Know I now why the
> unit felt so substantial and "un-Harbor Freight-Like" when I opened
> up the package! It was probably designed for Ridgid!
>
> Now if we can only get HF to sell that smaller camera accessory...if
> they ever do, it'll prolly be for $9.99 or so!
>
> Harley
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> Free 3D Earth Screensaver
> Watch the Earth right on your desktop! Check it out at
www.inbox.com/earth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kuffel(at)cyberport.net" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
Ken,
<< Does anyone have any experience with the Tyco Rocker type
switch/breaker?
I used the Tyco/Airpax/(now)Sensata/Snapak style rocker
circuit breaker/switches as primary power control in my
homebuilt in the mid-90s. Gave excellent service, not one
failure. I'm using the same style in the Sportsman I'm
currently building. The specific type is
R11-1-[amperage]-G06EV. They are Hydraulic-Magnetic type,
not thermal. You can find all the specifications at
airpax.sensata.com. Bob Nuckolls does not approve of this
arrangement. But this type is specified as usable in
life-critical medical devices which, together with my
personal experience, is good enough for me.
Tom Kuffel, AL7AU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
Looks like I'd better get that flier back if these questions keep coming
up!
>>How long was the price good for?<<
Not sure how long, it was in the Fourth of July flier, so I would guess
that it was good until at least the Fourth of July! But, in the past,
I've taken in old fliers with old prices on them (a few weeks old, not
years! ) and they have honored them.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Thomas wrote:
> How long was the price good for?
>
> Steve Thomas
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
> On Jun 16, 2009, at 3:00 PM, Don Curry wrote:
>
>> Harley,
>> Could you cut/paste the coupon (if it was a coupon sale) or the
>> flier? I searched my HF emails and couldnt find the item, but if I
>> had a coupon/flier, the local store would honor it. Thanks, Don
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Harley
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 5:14 PM
>> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: New from Harbor Freight
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>> At 01:03 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>>
>> I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
>>
>> It was $99.99 in the store...$139 on the website...note at the bottom
>> of the listing on the website, it says: "Prices on our website may or
>> may not be current prices in our stores"
>>
>> A gentleman at the local HF store explained that
>> their merchandising is handled through three
>> somewhat exclusive channels. The catalog sales,
>> website sales and storefront sales are different
>> pipes and may have differences in prices and
>> products offered.
>>
>> On occasion, I've been to the local store with
>> a catalog in hand where the catalog price was
>> lower than the store price . . . they readily
>> offered the product at the lower price. But
>> sale prices in the stores are not tightly tied
>> to the catalog or website offerings.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> A gentleman in another forum I belong to mentioned that Ridgid has
>> the same thing...so...
>>
>> A search for "color inspection cameras" comes up with several
>> different brand names, and ALL of them are identical. Looks like
>> this is one of those cases where China makes it and sells it to
>> everyone who wants to market one, putting their own brand name on
>> them. The prices for this unit vary from as high as $450 for the
>> 4UCAM model, to Harbor Freight's $99. The average appears to be
>> around $250. Dollars to donuts, Harbor Freight is getting them from
>> the same company that is making them for Ridgid.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/mw5yug
>> http://tinyurl.com/nskvv5
>>
>> Also one of the accessories available for it is a 9.5 mm camera to
>> replace the 17mm one that comes with it (the camera and flexible
>> cable plug into the same hand unit). That size WILL fit in a spark
>> plug hole! It also says that the smaller camera has a shorter focal
>> distance for closer and smaller work.
>> http://tinyurl.com/makor3
>>
>> I'll bet that it fits the HF model perfectly! Know I now why the
>> unit felt so substantial and "un-Harbor Freight-Like" when I opened
>> up the package! It was probably designed for Ridgid!
>>
>> Now if we can only get HF to sell that smaller camera accessory...if
>> they ever do, it'll prolly be for $9.99 or so!
>>
>> Harley
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>> * *
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 3D Earth Screensaver Preview <http://www.inbox.com/earth>
>> *Free 3D Earth Screensaver*
>> Watch the Earth right on your desktop! Check it out
>> at www.inbox.com/earth <http://www.inbox.com/earth>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
>> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot heat wire gauge |
At 05:18 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>
>Can anyone offer an appropriate wire size to prewire for pitot heat,
>probably the Dynon unit?
>
>Thanks in advance.
Most 14v pitot heaters use 9-11A of continuous
running load (150W). Their inrush current is
high and protracted. I'd go with a 20A fuse/
breaker and 14AWG wire.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
At 05:50 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>Looks like I'd better get that flier back if these questions keep coming up!
>
> >>How long was the price good for?<<
>
>Not sure how long, it was in the Fourth of July flier, so I would
>guess that it was good until at least the Fourth of July! But, in
>the past, I've taken in old fliers with old prices on them (a few
>weeks old, not years! ) and they have honored them.
Yeah. They've been very consumer friendly here too.
Had a 2.5Kw generator still in a box that I wanted
to trade in for a 6Kw machine. I'd had it almost
three years. He looked in the computer and found
that it was still stocked in their system so he
took it back and gave me full credit toward the
larger machine.
On the few occasions I've had quality issues (like
un-sticky sticky-stuff on sanding disks, they
swapped out and/or refunded even if I didn't have
the receipt.
What they may lack in quality of some items, they
more than compensated for it in customer service.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
At 06:01 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>
>Ken,
>
><< Does anyone have any experience with the Tyco Rocker type
>switch/breaker?
>
>I used the Tyco/Airpax/(now)Sensata/Snapak style rocker
>circuit breaker/switches as primary power control in my
>homebuilt in the mid-90s. Gave excellent service, not one
>failure. I'm using the same style in the Sportsman I'm
>currently building. The specific type is
>R11-1-[amperage]-G06EV. They are Hydraulic-Magnetic type,
>not thermal. You can find all the specifications at
>airpax.sensata.com. Bob Nuckolls does not approve of this
>arrangement.
There's a BIG difference between approval and recommendation.
I DON'T disapprove anything. I DO make recommendations based
on cost of ownership and using parts in a manner that
does put a mission at risk should a part fail.
>But this type is specified as usable in
>life-critical medical devices which, together with my
>personal experience, is good enough for me.
These are indeed Cadillac breaker/switches . . . with
a price to match. But if your system design goals
include achievement of failure tolerant design
then the $extra$ cost only buys you a style
of device and adds nothing to system reliability
for the airplane.
I've not seen this class of breaker used
anywhere on a TC aircraft of any size or
price.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
At 12:08 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any experience with the Tyco Rocker type switch/breaker?
>
>They are specified in the Digi-Key PTM as "secondary breakers",
>which must be backed up by a branch circuit breaker or fuse
><http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/TycoElectronicsPB/CircuitBreakers_NoAudio/CircuitBreakers_NoAudio.html>http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/TycoElectronicsPB/CircuitBreakers_NoAudio/CircuitBreakers_NoAudio.html.
>
>This would seem to defeat the purpose of having the breaker in the
>first place. What am I missing?
Beats me. This is the first time I've seen that
terminology used in describing the application
of circuit protection. Did some searching and found
this tid-bit . . .
Emacs!
This was excerpted from a book on wiring
design for large AC power distribution systems.
I don't think this applies to our 14/28V DC
systems in light aircraft.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Unique aviation video . . . |
See:
http://tinyurl.com/3x76dd
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pitot heat wire gauge |
| From: | "rckol" <rckol(at)kaehlers.com> |
According to the Dynon manual, "The maximum draw of the heated pitot controller/probe
is 10 amps." which is a bit less than the typical heated pitot.
They recommend at least a #14 wire for a 10'-16' run.
You can download the manual from their web site.
--------
rck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248609#248609
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hand" <chris_hand(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: noisy tach signal |
I have been unable to solve this problem so far and am considering a
different tach sensor or even buying / installing a stand-alone tach as I'm
getting frustrated in trying to get the IK-2000 engine monitor tach to work
with the factory recommended sensor. If anyone has any suggestions on what
I'm missing in making this work, any input is appreciated.
Here's where I'm at right now:
1. I cut the Hall effect sensor factory harness as short as I could for
installing connectors and used a 3-wire shielded cable from there to aft of
the firewall to connect the Hall effect sensor power, signal, and ground
wires. I soldered a short ground wire to the shield at the sensor end of
the cable and grounded it via ring terminal at the same mag location that I
grounded the p-lead shield. No improvement - in fact, probably worse than
without the shielded cable.
2. I moved the Hall effect sensor from the right mag to the left mag to see
if the same noise issue was observed and to see if the problem moved with
the sensor to the other mag. The problem DID move to the other mag and was
identical in performance (or lack thereof). So the Hall effect sensor gives
good rpm indication on the IK-2000 as long as the mag it is installed in is
NOT operating. As soon as I move the p-lead switch to "On" for the mag the
sensor is installed on, the tach signal becomes unusable. At low rpm (below
about 2000 rpm), the signal usually reads as if no signal is being recieved
(reads 20 or 30 rpm, same as when IK-2000 energized with engine off). At
high power settings, the tach indication bounces between reading correct to
being 100 to 300 rpm low and the number changes frequently even with
constant actual engine rpm. One interesting note is that the tach reading
is more accurate, i.e. less noise, when the engine is first started and run
from being cold (ambient temp). On initial (cold) startup, I start getting
good tach indication at about 1200 to 1500 rpm, allowing normal runup and
takeoff, and at cruise power settings everything looks good with the tach.
After shutdown and subsequent restart following initial flight of the day, I
don't get a good, or even close, reading until power goes above about 2000
rpm. After warmup in flight, tach indication is jumpy and reads low even at
2200 to 2300 rpm power settings. At any time, I can get a solid and
apparently accurate tach reading by securing the mag that has the Hall
effect sensor installed (I make the "apparently accurate" statement based on
past operating conditions: throttle position, sound, and airspeed/fuel flow
performance data, and the fact that the reading goes back to steady, solid
reading vice jumping around, and the idle readings are where they
should/have been).
3. As mentioned below, I tried installing 0.1 uF capacitor between
signal/gnd with no improvement. Same for installing 0.1 uF b/w +5V and gnd.
Whatever noise is being induced is driving the tach signal to point of no
pulses detected when the mag with sensor installed is operating. I can't
physically seperate the sensor line from the mag or the p-lead any more than
I already have.
Has anybody had success with the Westach Hall effect sensor installed in a
Slick mag? Anybody using this combination with an IK-Technologies engine
monitor? If so on either, did you encounter any noise issues that had to be
overcome?
Any advice/help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
RV-6A, N731CK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Hand" <chris_hand(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 11:54 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: noisy tach signal
>
>
> I'm having a lot of trouble getting a good tach reading on my IK-2000
> engine monitor using a Hall effect sensor on a Slick mag and am looking
> for
> suggestions on what to try next. I've tried multiple different wiring
> routings and tried 0.1 uF capacitor between signal lead and ground as well
> as between +5V power lead and ground, with no success (problem actually
> got worse when I added the caps so I took them back out).
>
> History is that I initially had dual P-mag setup with tach sensor reading
> off right P-mag. Tach worked fine in that configuration. At about 26
> hours
> total time I replaced the left P-mag with an impulse coupled Slick mag,
> still taking tach signal off right side P-mag. In that configuration I
> had
> noise issues causing problems with the tach reading at power settings
> below about 1800 rpm (engine / prop combo is O-360, fixed pitch
> Sensenich). The
> issue only showed up on throttling back when in flight; didn't see it on
> the ground except after landing when I had the problem in flight. Those
> tach problems were resolved by tying the Slick mag p-lead up a little
> further away from the tach sensor leads (although they were already
> seperated by at least 6 or 8 inches at closest approach).
>
> This past weekend I changed out the right side P-mag for non-impulse
> coupled Slick mag and installed a Hall effect sensor in the mag vent hole
> for
> feeding the IK-2000 tach sensor lines. This was the sensor suggested by
> IK-Technologies. Ground testing shows good tach readings only at rpms
> above about 1000-1200 rpm but after 10 or 15 minutes of flight time it
> starts reading low and erratic at power settings below about 2000 rpm,
> becoming completely unusable at approach and idle power settings. If I
> secure the right mag at any time (ground or in-flight testing), the tach
> reading is steady and appears accurate. So the noise is being introduced
> by the right mag when it is operating, but with the mag not firing, the
> sensor
> installed on that mag works great.
>
> I am using the factory supplied sensor wiring harness, which uses twisted
> pair wiring with none of the leads being shielded. I had extra lengths in
> this harness when I installed it so have the extra length coiled up under
> the forward top skin. For lack of any other ideas, I'm thinking about
> removing the factory harness and building a new one using 3-wire shielded
> cable for the tach sensor lines.
>
> Has anybody else on the list run into tach signal noise issues when using
> standard mags with Hall effect sensor? Any suggestions on what else I can
> do to fix this? (aside from going to a different sensor type or
> stand-alone tachometer)
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
>
> Chris
> RV-6A, N731CK, 55 hrs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What size hook up wire for the radio/Ptt switching |
etc??
| From: | "Thruster87" <alania(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Noticed on a Icom 210A rear plug that they used different color wires of approx
24 or 26 awg. Does anyone have a part number or the place to get this type of
wire as Aircraft spruce only has limited colors.Cheers
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248644#248644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What size hook up wire for the radio/Ptt switching |
etc??
http://www.steinair.com/wire.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thruster87" <alania(at)optusnet.com.au>
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 7:49 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: What size hook up wire for the radio/Ptt
switching etc??
>
>
> Noticed on a Icom 210A rear plug that they used different color wires of
> approx 24 or 26 awg. Does anyone have a part number or the place to get
> this type of wire as Aircraft spruce only has limited colors.Cheers
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248644#248644
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rer51" <rer51(at)netscape.ca> |
| Subject: | Nav Comm Antenna |
I searched the archives but to no success. How far should belly mounted
Comm and VOR antennas be spaced apart? Randy R.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What size hook up wire for the radio/Ptt switching |
etc??
B & C Specialty Products - http://www.bandc.biz/index.asp
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Aircraft Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Jun 17, 2009, at 1:49, Thruster87 wrote:
> >
>
> Noticed on a Icom 210A rear plug that they used different color
> wires of approx 24 or 26 awg. Does anyone have a part number or the
> place to get this type of wire as Aircraft spruce only has limited
> colors.Cheers
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248644#248644
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net> |
It appears that they are referring to the primary and secondary windings
of
the transformer, and not in the sense of a "backup".
In a nutshell, here's the way I interpret the Tyco spec: You can use our
circuit breakers to protect a circuit, but you must also use another
circuit
breaker or fuse to protect the same circuit. Does that make sense?
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Tyco Breakers
At 12:08 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with the Tyco Rocker type
switch/breaker?
They are specified in the Digi-Key PTM as "secondary breakers", which
must
be backed up by a branch circuit breaker or fuse
http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/TycoElectronicsPB/CircuitBreakers_NoAud
io/
CircuitBreakers_NoAudio.html .
This would seem to defeat the purpose of having the breaker in the first
place. What am I missing?
Beats me. This is the first time I've seen that
terminology used in describing the application
of circuit protection. Did some searching and found
this tid-bit . . .
Emacs!
This was excerpted from a book on wiring
design for large AC power distribution systems.
I don't think this applies to our 14/28V DC
systems in light aircraft.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unique aviation video . . . |
Saw a longer story about high tension wire repairs some time ago on one
of the cable/satellite channels...Discovery maybe? Went into details on
all the tools and equipment needed and why. Was very interesting! And
entertaining!
And, like the guy in this video...I'm afraid of the same three things he
is...heights (and I too fly), electricity (and I too built a career
around it) and women (but unlike him, I'm no longer married! )
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> See:
>
> * http://tinyurl.com/3x76dd*
>
> Bob . . .**
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What size hook up wire for the radio/Ptt switching |
etc??
Interesting replies to your post. Checking the web sites, B&C has one
color of 24 awg, Stein has none, and Aircraft Spruce has 6 listed. :)
Those are all fine companies, but I would suggest that you use 22 awg
wire for the extension you are building or whatever. It's easier to
work with, won't weigh significantly more, and more readily available
in different colors.
Bob W.
"Thruster87" wrote:
>
> Noticed on a Icom 210A rear plug that they used different color wires of approx
24 or 26 awg. Does anyone have a part number or the place to get this type
of wire as Aircraft spruce only has limited colors.Cheers
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248644#248644
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 07:11 AM 6/17/2009, you wrote:
>It appears that they are referring to the primary and secondary
>windings of the transformer, and not in the sense of a "backup".
>
>In a nutshell, here's the way I interpret the Tyco spec: You can use
>our circuit breakers to protect a circuit, but you must also use
>another circuit breaker or fuse to protect the same circuit. Does
>that make sense?
Not in a small footprint DC power distribution
system typical of a vehicle. You can use these
breakers like any other breaker in crafting
your project. The primary/secondary thing is
unique to AC systems where transformers are
used for changing voltage levels or offering
isolation between sides of a system. Clearly
we don't do this in little airplanes.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav Comm Antenna |
At 05:36 AM 6/17/2009, you wrote:
>I searched the archives but to no success. How far should belly
>mounted Comm and VOR antennas be spaced apart? Randy R.
As far as practical without getting silly.
What kind of VOR antenna do you have that
mounts on the belly?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
Thanks so far to those with advice!
It was frustrating to watch the engine gauges overheat and melt while watching
14.2 Volts show on multimeter at gauge. Right now, I turn master on and all gauges
light up, but after I start some gauges drop off and fail to power up unless
I cycle the Master. Is this from low voltage do you suppose?
-I plan to replace all damaged gauges (Volt, Oil Temp, Manifold)
-I will replace alternator (currently a Nippon Denso internally regulated with
standard pulley) despite it testing OK.
-Should I add over-voltage separately?
-Should I switch instrument power to eliminate them being on line during start?
Thanks for ideas...Jake
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248712#248712
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 |
I think you're looking in the wrong place. You're drawing to many amps
through the instruments. Hook up an ammeter to the instrument ground and
measure the draw when you start the engine and while running.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JakeTheBosun
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 12:07 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3
Thanks so far to those with advice!
It was frustrating to watch the engine gauges overheat and melt while
watching 14.2 Volts show on multimeter at gauge. Right now, I turn
master on and all gauges light up, but after I start some gauges drop
off and fail to power up unless I cycle the Master. Is this from low
voltage do you suppose?
-I plan to replace all damaged gauges (Volt, Oil Temp, Manifold)
-I will replace alternator (currently a Nippon Denso internally
regulated with standard pulley) despite it testing OK.
-Should I add over-voltage separately?
-Should I switch instrument power to eliminate them being on line during
start?
Thanks for ideas...Jake
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248712#248712
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
Thanks Bruce...(will do this tomorrow - child-minding today).
I have a trend ammeter beside voltmeter....it shows nothing alarming but it might
not reflect instrument situation.
The instruments are fused at 3 amps...but that is at the buss and I think you are
suggesting something different is happening.
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248718#248718
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ROGER & JEAN CURTIS" <mrspudandcompany(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Inspection camera |
Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July 6. See
attachment!
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What size hook up wire for the radio/Ptt switching |
etc??
At 01:49 AM 6/17/2009, you wrote:
>
>Noticed on a Icom 210A rear plug that they used different color
>wires of approx 24 or 26 awg. Does anyone have a part number or the
>place to get this type of wire as Aircraft spruce only has limited
>colors.Cheers
Some years ago I did a data package for
wiring the A200. I just looked up the installation
info for the A210 and it appears that Icom for all
their technical skills have learned little about
airplanes . . . the installation manuals
leave a lot to be desired.
Here's my impression of the A210. It appears they've
added a 15 pin D-sub connector that parallels
connections in the 30-pin Molex connector. The
connector can be used in simple installations
like a line truck or FBO base station. As near
as I can tell, all other wiring on the Molex
connector for the A210 are the same as for the
A200.
I've updated the drawings I did for the A200
and published at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/Icom_A200-210_Wiring_D.pdf
I think you'll find these more helpful than the
factory installation manual. I'll further suggest
you use all white, 22AWG wire for connecting this
radio. The thing is very simple and taking time to
purchase a few feet of colored wire is not a
good return on investment. Use masking tape tags
on the free ends of wires to tell you where that
end goes when the installation is complete.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: noisy tach signal |
At 01:41 AM 6/17/2009, you wrote:
>
>I have been unable to solve this problem so far and am considering a
>different tach sensor or even buying / installing a stand-alone tach
>as I'm getting frustrated in trying to get the IK-2000 engine
>monitor tach to work with the factory recommended sensor. If anyone
>has any suggestions on what I'm missing in making this work, any
>input is appreciated.
>
>Here's where I'm at right now:
>
>1. I cut the Hall effect sensor factory harness as short as I could
>for installing connectors and used a 3-wire shielded cable from
>there to aft of the firewall to connect the Hall effect sensor
>power, signal, and ground wires. I soldered a short ground wire to
>the shield at the sensor end of the cable and grounded it via ring
>terminal at the same mag location that I grounded the p-lead
>shield. No improvement - in fact, probably worse than without the
>shielded cable.
Clearly your hall sensor is responding to "ringing"
in the magnetic circuit associated with the points-
opening event of the magneto. Have you used a 'scope
to see what's showing up on the tach signal when
the magneto is operating? The tach signal is quite
low in frequency so some form of low-pass filter
and/or other signal conditioning is indicated.
Unfortunately, the expected signal from a hard
switching hall effect sensor is already full of
high frequency components (cause it's square).
Rolling this off to get rid of the ringing spikes
will probably require re-squaring the signal after
low-pass to get tach input happy.
In the past, I've use phase locked loops to grab
the desired suite of low frequency components that
basically ignores the spikes. What is the sensor
brand and part number?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | FW: Inspection camera |
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Carlos
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ROGER &
JEAN CURTIS
Sent: quarta-feira, 17 de Junho de 2009 17:53
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July 6. See attachment!
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Inspection camera |
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
Carlos
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ROGER &
JEAN CURTIS
Sent: quarta-feira, 17 de Junho de 2009 17:53
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July 6. See attachment!
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hand" <chris_hand(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: noisy tach signal |
Thanks Bob. I don't have access to an o-scope so haven't been able to look
at the signal. The only filtering I've tried is the simple wiring of a 0.1
uF cap from signal lead to ground. My other efforts at solving the problem
have been trying various wiring routing changes and then changing the sensor
leads to shielded cable.
The sensor is a Westach Model 720-14R Hall effect sensor that screws into
the Slick mag vent hole over the rotating magnets. Westach has been very
responsive in trying to help solve the issue but no luck so far. They are
going to send me a sensor that is driven off the mechanical drive (model
303DH2T) and I'll see if that works better, but they tell me the setup I
have has worked for many others and I'm not sure what in my setup could be
causing the problem. I haven't heard back from IK-Tech yet.
Chris
>
>
>
>
> Clearly your hall sensor is responding to "ringing"
> in the magnetic circuit associated with the points-
> opening event of the magneto. Have you used a 'scope
> to see what's showing up on the tach signal when
> the magneto is operating? The tach signal is quite
> low in frequency so some form of low-pass filter
> and/or other signal conditioning is indicated.
> Unfortunately, the expected signal from a hard
> switching hall effect sensor is already full of
> high frequency components (cause it's square).
> Rolling this off to get rid of the ringing spikes
> will probably require re-squaring the signal after
> low-pass to get tach input happy.
>
> In the past, I've use phase locked loops to grab
> the desired suite of low frequency components that
> basically ignores the spikes. What is the sensor
> brand and part number?
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What size hook up wire for the radio/Ptt switching |
etc??
| From: | "Thruster87" <alania(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Isn't the net wonderful, this is why I really enjoy these forums. Thank you again
for all your responses. Cheers Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248790#248790
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David LLoyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
Roger,
It would be nice if you scanned the sale page to also include the "date"
that it is good. That way folks that do not get the ad can take your
scanned copy, with current date, and hustle down to HF and purchase one.
I do not know if all HF outlets carry the same sales. But, they would
probably honor a sale print out.
David
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
----- Original Message -----
From: ROGER & JEAN CURTIS
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 9:53 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July 6. See
attachment!
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Inspection camera |
It's battery powered. Older boroscopes needed to be plugged in to drive
their hi intensity lights.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos
Trigo
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 3:52 PM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger" <mrspudandcompany(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
Carlos
This is an excerpt from a previous posting by Harley:
The monitor/display is in color, has adjustable brightness (in
> addition to the LED light source brightness adjustments), contrast
and
> orientation (rotates the image in four steps) and can be removed
> easily from the handle and remoted as it uses a wireless connection
to
> the camera. It also has a video output. It's cable has a standard
> RCA connector on the end so you can input it to any device that will
> accept a composite video input for recording or viewing on a larger
> screen.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
The extended tube is to get the camera located on the end of the tube
where it is you want to see something - inside a cylinder or other
semi-remote / inaccessible place.
The "wireless" refers to the fact that you don't need an AC extension
cord for power. Additionally, the "wireless" refers to the fact that the
LCD monitor can be separated from the camera assembly so you can place
the monitor somewhere it can be conveniently viewed while manipulating
the camera probe.
Pretty cool for $99!
Dick
Carlos Trig wrote:
>
> Can somebody please explain why is it advertised Wireless Inspection
> Camera and it comes with 3 ft flexible extended tube ?
>
> Is the wireless referring to the (battery) power only?
>
> Carlos
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Curry" <don.curry(at)inbox.com> |
| Subject: | New from Harbor Freight |
Harley said: "The first thing I noticed was that it was very well
packaged
in a semi-rigid plastic container. I'll use that to store it in."
I got my HF sale paper today and hurried down to the store to pick up
one of
these little gems. When I got there, I was surprised to see the thing
in a
foam-filled cardboard box. No plastic container. What are other folks
finding: plastic containers or cardboard boxes?
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Harley
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:32 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: New from Harbor Freight
I received a flyer from Harbor Freight yesterday, and one of the items
in it
was a new "borescope" that was priced down from $139 (on their website)
to
$99.99 in the local stores.
So, knowing that I would need one soon to exam the inside of my fuel
tanks
when I get the holes for the fuel filler assembly cut (and who knows
what
other little holes I'd have to inspect), I went down and bought it.
I bought it...it was much better than I expected, and a lot more solid
than
other Harbor Freight items I bought in the past. The first thing I
noticed
was that it was very well packaged in a semi-rigid plastic container.
I'll
use that to store it in.
I think it has a lot of neat features (in addition to the price), so I
thought I'd pass it on to you people in case you are looking for a tool
to
examine those hard to view places as well.
The camera/light source head is 5/8 inch in diameter...the flexible
shaft is
3 feet long. The camera, flex shaft and mounting head on the handle are
attached with o-rings and are claimed to be water proof. The whole thing
(including the monitor) has a nice solid feel to it and appears to be
pretty
rugged. Not the usual thin plastic like the Chinese stuff often is.
The length of the camera head before it starts to be bendable may be a
problem for some applications though, as even though the camera and
it's
fitting itself is only a little less than 3 inches in length, it needs
4-1/2
inches of clearance straight in to get a full bend in the flexible
shaft.
An application like this would be a good place to use the 45 degree
mirror
attachment that comes with it that I mention below.
The monitor/display is in color, has adjustable brightness (in addition
to
the LED light source brightness adjustments), contrast and orientation
(rotates the image in four steps) and can be removed easily from the
handle
and remoted as it uses a wireless connection to the camera. It also has
a
video output. It's cable has a standard RCA connector on the end so you
can
input it to any device that will accept a composite video input for
recording or viewing on a larger screen.
The camera and LEDs runs on 4 AA batteries in the handle, and the
monitor
has a rechargeable lithium ion battery. It comes with the charger as
well.
It has three attachments that fit over the camera head ...a mirror, a
magnet
and a pick. So you can hunt down and move or pick up things you find in
those deep dark holes.
It uses super bright LEDs for the camera's light source, and the light
level
is adjustable through a trigger on the handle. The camera does pretty
good
in low light as well...I was viewing items in my house this morning
without
using the LEDs.
You can see it online here:
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
And the manual is here:
www.harborfreight.com/manuals/66000-66999/66550.pdf
Harley Dixon
Long EZ N28EZ
Canandaigua, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being attached
to the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to the fact that
to work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume that turns on the
receiver), the HANDLE has to be on (the transmitter as well as the
camera and the light) AND the monitor display has to be turned on.
Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one switch to
do it all!
I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away from the
camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it can be removed
(the instructions say it can be used "in close proximity" to the
handle...) but a couple of rooms away allows you to have the monitor
close to a tape recorder or computer if you want to save the video you
are looking at without having the recording unit in the garage or near
the work being examined (it comes with a cable to output the image for
recording or storing.)
I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when I was
playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by either the
flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have the monitor
standing still in front of you while you maneuver the camera.
It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under their
own name, no longer have that option.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
> Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
>
> Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
>
>
>
> Carlos
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *ROGER & JEAN CURTIS
> *Sent:* quarta-feira, 17 de Junho de 2009 17:53
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
>
>
>
>
>
> Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July 6. See
> attachment!
>
>
>
> Roger
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)agelesswings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
As I said, Don...the foam is semi-ridgid (oops, I mean rigid
)...Makes a great permanent storage box for it. It isn't a blown
plastic container like some tools have, with a latching lid, but it is
thick walled, and protective enough to store it in.
Originally, I was going to say "foam" but I didn't want anyone to think
that it was that fragile styrofoam that is often used to pack around
elctronics. The foam that the camera is packed with has a waxy feel to
it...very sturdy.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don Curry wrote:
>
> Harley said: "The first thing I noticed was that it was very well
> packaged in a semi-rigid plastic container. I'll use that to store it in."
>
>
>
> I got my HF sale paper today and hurried down to the store to pick up
> one of these little gems. When I got there, I was surprised to see
> the thing in a foam-filled cardboard box. No plastic container. What
> are other folks finding: plastic containers or cardboard boxes?
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Harley
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:32 PM
> *To:* undisclosed-recipients:
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: New from Harbor Freight
>
>
>
> I received a flyer from Harbor Freight yesterday, and one of the items
> in it was a new "borescope" that was priced down from $139 (on their
> website) to $99.99 in the local stores.
>
> So, knowing that I would need one soon to exam the inside of my fuel
> tanks when I get the holes for the fuel filler assembly cut (and who
> knows what other little holes I'd have to inspect), I went down and
> bought it.
>
> I bought it...it was much better than I expected, and a lot more solid
> than other Harbor Freight items I bought in the past. The first thing
> I noticed was that it was very well packaged in a semi-rigid plastic
> container. I'll use that to store it in.
>
> I think it has a lot of neat features (in addition to the price), so I
> thought I'd pass it on to you people in case you are looking for a
> tool to examine those hard to view places as well.
>
> The camera/light source head is 5/8 inch in diameter...the flexible
> shaft is 3 feet long. The camera, flex shaft and mounting head on the
> handle are attached with o-rings and are claimed to be water proof.
> The whole thing (including the monitor) has a nice solid feel to it
> and appears to be pretty rugged. Not the usual thin plastic like the
> Chinese stuff often is.
>
> The length of the camera head before it starts to be bendable may be a
> problem for some applications though, as even though the camera and
> it's fitting itself is only a little less than 3 inches in length, it
> needs 4-1/2 inches of clearance straight in to get a full bend in the
> flexible shaft. An application like this would be a good place to use
> the 45 degree mirror attachment that comes with it that I mention below.
>
> The monitor/display is in color, has adjustable brightness (in
> addition to the LED light source brightness adjustments), contrast and
> orientation (rotates the image in four steps) and can be removed
> easily from the handle and remoted as it uses a wireless connection to
> the camera. It also has a video output. It's cable has a standard
> RCA connector on the end so you can input it to any device that will
> accept a composite video input for recording or viewing on a larger
> screen.
>
> The camera and LEDs runs on 4 AA batteries in the handle, and the
> monitor has a rechargeable lithium ion battery. It comes with the
> charger as well. It has three attachments that fit over the camera
> head ...a mirror, a magnet and a pick. So you can hunt down and move
> or pick up things you find in those deep dark holes.
>
> It uses super bright LEDs for the camera's light source, and the light
> level is adjustable through a trigger on the handle. The camera does
> pretty good in low light as well...I was viewing items in my house
> this morning without using the LEDs.
>
> You can see it online here:
> www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search>
>
> And the manual is here:
> www.harborfreight.com/manuals/66000-66999/66550.pdf
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/66000-66999/66550.pdf>
>
> Harley Dixon
> Long EZ N28EZ
> Canandaigua, NY
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Inspection camera |
Harley
Thanks for the complete explanation.
It really looks cool. and not expensive
I wish there were Harbour Freight shops in Europe.
Carlos
_____
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harley
Sent: quarta-feira, 17 de Junho de 2009 23:21
Subject: Re: FW: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being attached to
the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to the fact that to
work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume that turns on the receiver),
the HANDLE has to be on (the transmitter as well as the camera and the
light) AND the monitor display has to be turned on.
Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one switch to do it
all!
I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away from the
camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it can be removed (the
instructions say it can be used "in close proximity" to the handle...) but a
couple of rooms away allows you to have the monitor close to a tape recorder
or computer if you want to save the video you are looking at without having
the recording unit in the garage or near the work being examined (it comes
with a cable to output the image for recording or storing.)
I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when I was
playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by either the
flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have the monitor standing
still in front of you while you maneuver the camera.
It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under their own
name, no longer have that option.
Harley
_____
Carlos Trigo wrote:
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger" <mrspudandcompany(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
David,
There is no "sale end date" listed on the page where this ad appears.
This is a widely published flyer which is most likely known by all
retail stores.
Just print the scanned ad. They will accept it.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: David LLoyd
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Roger,
It would be nice if you scanned the sale page to also include the
"date" that it is good. That way folks that do not get the ad can take
your scanned copy, with current date, and hustle down to HF and purchase
one. I do not know if all HF outlets carry the same sales. But, they
would probably honor a sale print out.
David
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
----- Original Message -----
From: ROGER & JEAN CURTIS
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 9:53 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July 6. See
attachment!
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody04(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New from Harbor Freight |
FWIW
I saw Harleys post yesterday and went to my local Harbor Freight Store
(Margate FL) Iwent up to the counter and asked for the $99 wireless
inspection camera item #66550. The clerk got 1 off the shelf, rang it
up at $99.95+tax and I was out the door. No coupon or anything. And
yes, it works great.....
Don Curry wrote:
>
> Harley,
>
> Could you cut/paste the coupon (if it was a coupon sale) or the
> flier? I searched my HF emails and couldn't find the item, but if I
> had a coupon/flier, the local store would honor it. Thanks, Don
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Harley
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 5:14 PM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: New from Harbor Freight
>
>
>
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> At 01:03 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>
> I mentioned the price difference in the last email.
>
> It was $99.99 in the store...$139 on the website...note at the bottom
> of the listing on the website, it says: "Prices on our website may or
> may not be current prices in our stores"
>
>
> A gentleman at the local HF store explained that
> their merchandising is handled through three
> somewhat exclusive channels. The catalog sales,
> website sales and storefront sales are different
> pipes and may have differences in prices and
> products offered.
>
> On occasion, I've been to the local store with
> a catalog in hand where
>
> Harley
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 3D Earth Screensaver Preview <http://www.inbox.com/earth>
> *Free 3D Earth Screensaver*
> Watch the Earth right on your desktop! Check it out at
> www.inbox.com/earth <http://www.inbox.com/earth>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
This is not a coupon that you have to have to get the price. It is just
an entry in the flyer. Just go to the store and ask for it. I would
assume that all stores have the same price on this item. Unfortunately,
you do have to go to a store to get one - no web discount. :-(
Dick Tasker
David LLoyd wrote:
> Roger,
> It would be nice if you scanned the sale page to also include the
> "date" that it is good. That way folks that do not get the ad can
> take your scanned copy, with current date, and hustle down to HF and
> purchase one. I do not know if all HF outlets carry the same sales.
> But, they would probably honor a sale print out.
> David
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 6/17/2009 10:10 PM, Richard E. Tasker wrote:
> you do have to go to a store to get one - no web discount. :-(
And no store near me... :-(
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
It uses batteries. Ergo --- no power cord!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 6/17/2009 3:57:20 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt writes:
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised =9CWireless Inspec
tion
Camera=9D and it comes with =9C3 ft flexible extended tube
=9D ?
Carlos
**************Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday!
=http:%2F%2F
ad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215692145%3B38015538%3Bh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
I suppose, depending on one's definition of "near", there are stores
near me - but the closest is at least an hours drive. :-(
With the price of gas today, I might as well buy online and pay the
extra $40. Well, probably not quite, but including time, gas, etc....
Dick
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 6/17/2009 10:10 PM, Richard E. Tasker wrote:
>
>> you do have to go to a store to get one - no web discount. :-(
>>
>
> And no store near me... :-(
>
> -Dj
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David LLoyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
Thanks,,,,,
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
David,
There is no "sale end date" listed on the page where this ad appears.
This is a widely published flyer which is most likely known by all
retail stores.
Just print the scanned ad. They will accept it.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: David LLoyd
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Roger,
It would be nice if you scanned the sale page to also include the
"date" that it is good. That way folks that do not get the ad can take
your scanned copy, with current date, and hustle down to HF and purchase
one. I do not know if all HF outlets carry the same sales. But, they
would probably honor a sale print out.
David
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
----- Original Message -----
From: ROGER & JEAN CURTIS
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 9:53 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July 6. See
attachment!
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ciolino <johnciolino(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
You can get the Milwaukee brand of the same inspection camera from
Amazon.com for $97.62 with free shipping. (p/n 2300-20) There are 2
versions; this is the AA powered model, a Lithium ion powered model is $200+
John Ciolino
David LLoyd wrote:
> Thanks,,,,,
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Roger
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2009 4:09 PM
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
>
> David,
>
> There is no "sale end date" listed on the page where this ad
> appears. This is a widely published flyer which is most likely
> known by all retail stores.
>
> Just print the scanned ad. They will accept it.
>
> Roger
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* David LLoyd
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:56 PM
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
>
> Roger,
> It would be nice if you scanned the sale page to also include
> the "date" that it is good. That way folks that do not get
> the ad can take your scanned copy, with current date, and
> hustle down to HF and purchase one. I do not know if all HF
> outlets carry the same sales. But, they would probably honor
> a sale print out.
> David
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* ROGER & JEAN CURTIS
>
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2009 9:53 AM
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
>
>
>
> Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July
> 6. See attachment!
>
>
>
> Roger
>
> *
> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
John...
Not quite the same thing...the reviews of the Milwaukee unit are not as
good as for the Ridgid one...biggest complaints with this Milwaukee unit
is the large camera head (3/4"...a bit bigger than the HF model) and the
difficulty of watching the screen while trying to maneuver the camera
head...solved with the HF unit by removing the monitor from the handle.
There were some complaints about cracks in the plastic case as well.
Also, it doesn't have the ability to record the image, or flip or
reverse the image without moving the camera. Also, the handy little
tools that come with the HF unit are definitely a plus...a hook, a
magnet and a mirror that attach to the camera head. Cheap to add to it,
but quite a good idea!
So far, I've found the HF unit to be VERY substantial and well built.
Last night, I was playing with it, and recorded a quick look around my
computer room...inputting the image into the video capture device I have
on the 'puter.
You can see the results here:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMcqqQNIg50&feature=channel_page
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
John Ciolino wrote:
> You can get the Milwaukee brand of the same inspection camera from
> Amazon.com for $97.62 with free shipping. (p/n 2300-20) There are 2
> versions; this is the AA powered model, a Lithium ion powered model is
> $200+
>
> John Ciolino
>
> David LLoyd wrote:
>> Thanks,,,,,
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Roger
>> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2009 4:09 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
>>
>> David,
>>
>> There is no "sale end date" listed on the page where this ad
>> appears. This is a widely published flyer which is most likely
>> known by all retail stores.
>>
>> Just print the scanned ad. They will accept it.
>>
>> Roger
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* David LLoyd
>> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:56 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
>>
>> Roger,
>> It would be nice if you scanned the sale page to also include
>> the "date" that it is good. That way folks that do not get
>> the ad can take your scanned copy, with current date, and
>> hustle down to HF and purchase one. I do not know if all HF
>> outlets carry the same sales. But, they would probably honor
>> a sale print out.
>> David
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* ROGER & JEAN CURTIS
>>
>> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2009 9:53 AM
>> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: FW: Inspection camera
>>
>>
>>
>> Just got my HF flier today. The sale is good until July
>> 6. See attachment!
>>
>>
>>
>> Roger
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kuffel(at)cyberport.net" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
Question was:
<< experience with the Tyco Rocker type switch/breaker? >>
I replied:
<< I used the Tyco/Airpax/(now)Sensata/Snapak style rocker
circuit breaker/switches R11-1-[amperage]-G06EV. ..
airpax.sensata.com. Bob Nuckolls does not approve of this
arrangement. >>
Bob Nuckolls replied:
<>
Felt Bob would take umbrage at the phrase the moment I
pressed the send button. Okay, replace "does not approve
of" with "discourages use of". Semantics anywhere but in a
government bureaucracy.
<< These are indeed Cadillac breaker/switches . . . with
a price to match. >>
Just went and looked. Airpax style R11-1-[amp] are
available under $15. This is half the AS&S price of the
Tyco thermal circuit breakers used in type certified
aircraft.
<< But if your system design goals
include achievement of failure tolerant design
then the $extra$ cost only buys you a style
of device and adds nothing to system reliability
for the airplane.>>
Here, Bob and I have disagreed before. To me, the probable
reliability of this life rated switch/circuit breaker and
two connections is not automatically worse than the switch,
wire across the panel to a circuit breaker array and 4
connections setup typical of most aircraft. As I said, my
experience has been good, I'm confident in the reliability
of the device, I like the simplified wiring and also like
the reduced panel usage.
<< I've not seen this class of breaker used
anywhere on a TC aircraft of any size or
price. >>
Which is one of the reasons we build experimental aircraft,
so we can use stuff the TC world doesn't.
Tom Kuffel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: noisy tach signal |
At 04:12 PM 6/17/2009, you wrote:
>
>Thanks Bob. I don't have access to an o-scope so haven't been able
>to look at the signal. The only filtering I've tried is the simple
>wiring of a 0.1 uF cap from signal lead to ground. My other efforts
>at solving the problem have been trying various wiring routing
>changes and then changing the sensor leads to shielded cable.
>
>The sensor is a Westach Model 720-14R Hall effect sensor that screws
>into the Slick mag vent hole over the rotating magnets. Westach has
>been very responsive in trying to help solve the issue but no luck
>so far. They are going to send me a sensor that is driven off the
>mechanical drive (model 303DH2T) and I'll see if that works better,
>but they tell me the setup I have has worked for many others and I'm
>not sure what in my setup could be causing the problem. I haven't
>heard back from IK-Tech yet.
Hmmm . . . see if the IK-Tech will share a sketch
of a schematic for the first two stages of tach
signal conditioning. The manner in which bias levels
are established for any "squaring" or level sensing
circuits can have a profound effect on noise sensitivity.
The schematics (need parts values too) + 'scope trace
will permit a simple-ideas analysis of the symptoms.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger" <mrspudandcompany(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
You can get the Milwaukee brand of the same inspection camera from
Amazon.com for $97.62 with free shipping. (p/n 2300-20) There are 2
versions; this is the AA powered model, a Lithium ion powered model is
$200+
John Ciolino
They appear to be quite different from the HF unit! Does anyone have
a comparison for us??
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)agelesswings.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection camera |
Another day, more testing of this neat little camera! This morning (a
very rainy, wet morning here...good day to play inside! ), I set it
up in my "computer room" (a converted bedroom on the west most end of my
house), disconnected the monitor and walked around the house.
I had a steady image until I got about 25 feet away, in the hall to my
kitchen, but even then, never totally lost the image in the house. Went
out into my attached garage (~60 feet from the camera) and also down
into the cellar.
What did happen was that I would start getting a couple of regular
horizontal flash-like lines as the signal became weaker...never bothered
the readability of the image though. The only time I lost the image
altogether was when I went out into my front yard. But it returned
immediately if I backed up a couple of feet.
What this all means for me, is that I can set the monitor up to record
to the computer in the computer room, and check out things just about
anywhere in my house, including the garage and cellar. Of course things
may change when I start moving the camera instead of the monitor!
Found another similar device online that uses a separate monitor, and
can be recorded directly into the monitor. The V-Snake (
www.privatebrandtools.com/wireless.htm ). But the base unit (without
the record function) is $500, and the recording option adds another $400
to the price.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being attached
to the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to the fact that
to work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume that turns on the
receiver), the HANDLE has to be on (the transmitter as well as the
camera and the light) AND the monitor display has to be turned on.
Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one switch to
do it all!
I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away from the
camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it can be removed
(the instructions say it can be used "in close proximity" to the
handle...) but a couple of rooms away allows you to have the monitor
close to a tape recorder or computer if you want to save the video you
are looking at without having the recording unit in the garage or near
the work being examined (it comes with a cable to output the image for
recording or storing.)
I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when I was
playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by either the
flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have the monitor
standing still in front of you while you maneuver the camera.
It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under their
own name, no longer have that option.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
> Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
>
> Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
>
>
>
> Carlos
>
*
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Homemade handheld antenna |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, Just got through mounting my A-22 handheld in my trike. Now I'm
wondering about a better antenna than the rubber ducky that it came with.
Calculated length for a 1/4 wave centered on 127Mhz is 23.25". I'm thinking
of nothing more than a piece of 1/16" SS welding wire shoved into a BNC
connector. Any input by radio heads will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David LLoyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Harley,
You tested it for long lens photo views it seems. How is the lens when
you want to look at something up very close? ...say 1 -3 inches away.
Does it have a manually adjusted lens,,?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: Harley
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 5:23 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
Another day, more testing of this neat little camera! This morning (a
very rainy, wet morning here...good day to play inside! ), I set it
up in my "computer room" (a converted bedroom on the west most end of my
house), disconnected the monitor and walked around the house.
I had a steady image until I got about 25 feet away, in the hall to my
kitchen, but even then, never totally lost the image in the house. Went
out into my attached garage (~60 feet from the camera) and also down
into the cellar.
What did happen was that I would start getting a couple of regular
horizontal flash-like lines as the signal became weaker...never bothered
the readability of the image though. The only time I lost the image
altogether was when I went out into my front yard. But it returned
immediately if I backed up a couple of feet.
What this all means for me, is that I can set the monitor up to record
to the computer in the computer room, and check out things just about
anywhere in my house, including the garage and cellar. Of course things
may change when I start moving the camera instead of the monitor!
Found another similar device online that uses a separate monitor, and
can be recorded directly into the monitor. The V-Snake (
www.privatebrandtools.com/wireless.htm ). But the base unit (without
the record function) is $500, and the recording option adds another $400
to the price.
Harley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being
attached to the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to the
fact that to work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume that turns
on the receiver), the HANDLE has to be on (the transmitter as well as
the camera and the light) AND the monitor display has to be turned on.
Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one switch to
do it all!
I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away from
the camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it can be
removed (the instructions say it can be used "in close proximity" to the
handle...) but a couple of rooms away allows you to have the monitor
close to a tape recorder or computer if you want to save the video you
are looking at without having the recording unit in the garage or near
the work being examined (it comes with a cable to output the image for
recording or storing.)
I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when I
was playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by either
the flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have the monitor
standing still in front of you while you maneuver the camera.
It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under
their own name, no longer have that option.
Harley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Carlos Trigo wrote:
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless
Inspection Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
No, the lens doesn't have an adjustable focus...but, if you'll notice
the keyboard in my video, I was within a couple of inches of the keys at
one point and it was still fairly clear.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMcqqQNIg50.
Ridgid has a 9mm camera and flexible cable (this one is 17mm diameter)
accessory that should fit this unit that is supposed to have a closer
focal range. That may be an option as well.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
David LLoyd wrote:
> Harley,
> You tested it for long lens photo views it seems. How is the lens
> when you want to look at something up very close? ...say 1 -3 inches
> away. Does it have a manually adjusted lens,,?
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Harley
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 18, 2009 5:23 AM
> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
>
> Another day, more testing of this neat little camera! This
> morning (a very rainy, wet morning here...good day to play inside!
> ), I set it up in my "computer room" (a converted bedroom on
> the west most end of my house), disconnected the monitor and
> walked around the house.
>
> I had a steady image until I got about 25 feet away, in the hall
> to my kitchen, but even then, never totally lost the image in the
> house. Went out into my attached garage (~60 feet from the
> camera) and also down into the cellar.
>
> What did happen was that I would start getting a couple of regular
> horizontal flash-like lines as the signal became weaker...never
> bothered the readability of the image though. The only time I
> lost the image altogether was when I went out into my front yard.
> But it returned immediately if I backed up a couple of feet.
>
> What this all means for me, is that I can set the monitor up to
> record to the computer in the computer room, and check out things
> just about anywhere in my house, including the garage and cellar.
> Of course things may change when I start moving the camera instead
> of the monitor!
>
> Found another similar device online that uses a separate monitor,
> and can be recorded directly into the monitor. The V-Snake (
> www.privatebrandtools.com/wireless.htm ). But the base unit
> (without the record function) is $500, and the recording option
> adds another $400 to the price.
>
> Harley
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being
> attached to the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to
> the fact that to work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume
> that turns on the receiver), the HANDLE has to be on (the
> transmitter as well as the camera and the light) AND the monitor
> display has to be turned on.
>
> Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
> models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one
> switch to do it all!
>
> I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away
> from the camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it
> can be removed (the instructions say it can be used "in close
> proximity" to the handle...) but a couple of rooms away allows you
> to have the monitor close to a tape recorder or computer if you
> want to save the video you are looking at without having the
> recording unit in the garage or near the work being examined (it
> comes with a cable to output the image for recording or storing.)
>
> I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when
> I was playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by
> either the flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have
> the monitor standing still in front of you while you maneuver the
> camera.
>
> It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under
> their own name, no longer have that option.
>
> Harley
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Carlos Trigo wrote:
>>
>> Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless
>> Inspection Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
>>
>> Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
>>
>> Carlos
>>
> *
> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Homemade handheld antenna |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Rick -
That will work, but I'd suggest a piece of music wire rather than stainless.
Music wire will accept solder, so you can solder the wire to the BNC center
pin for a better electrical connection (then pot it with epoxy for
strain-relief). You'll also be happier if you put a tight 180-deg bend or
small loop in the end (also soldered) to mitigate scratches, snags and
gouged eyes.
Neal
=================
Bob, Just got through mounting my A-22 handheld in my trike. Now I'm
wondering about a better antenna than the rubber ducky that it came with.
Calculated length for a 1/4 wave centered on 127Mhz is 23.25". I'm thinking
of nothing more than a piece of 1/16" SS welding wire shoved into a BNC
connector. Any input by radio heads will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David LLoyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Thanks Harley... I had previously missed your YouTube link. For me is
key to have close up to look for bracket cracks and other mechanical
failure areas that are nearly inaccessible for inspection.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: Harley
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
No, the lens doesn't have an adjustable focus...but, if you'll notice
the keyboard in my video, I was within a couple of inches of the keys at
one point and it was still fairly clear.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMcqqQNIg50.
Ridgid has a 9mm camera and flexible cable (this one is 17mm diameter)
accessory that should fit this unit that is supposed to have a closer
focal range. That may be an option as well.
Harley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
David LLoyd wrote:
Harley,
You tested it for long lens photo views it seems. How is the lens
when you want to look at something up very close? ...say 1 -3 inches
away. Does it have a manually adjusted lens,,?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: Harley
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 5:23 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
Another day, more testing of this neat little camera! This
morning (a very rainy, wet morning here...good day to play inside! ),
I set it up in my "computer room" (a converted bedroom on the west most
end of my house), disconnected the monitor and walked around the house.
I had a steady image until I got about 25 feet away, in the hall
to my kitchen, but even then, never totally lost the image in the house.
Went out into my attached garage (~60 feet from the camera) and also
down into the cellar.
What did happen was that I would start getting a couple of regular
horizontal flash-like lines as the signal became weaker...never bothered
the readability of the image though. The only time I lost the image
altogether was when I went out into my front yard. But it returned
immediately if I backed up a couple of feet.
What this all means for me, is that I can set the monitor up to
record to the computer in the computer room, and check out things just
about anywhere in my house, including the garage and cellar. Of course
things may change when I start moving the camera instead of the monitor!
Found another similar device online that uses a separate monitor,
and can be recorded directly into the monitor. The V-Snake (
www.privatebrandtools.com/wireless.htm ). But the base unit (without
the record function) is $500, and the recording option adds another $400
to the price.
Harley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being
attached to the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to the
fact that to work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume that turns
on the receiver), the HANDLE has to be on (the transmitter as well as
the camera and the light) AND the monitor display has to be turned on.
Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one switch to
do it all!
I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away
from the camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it can be
removed (the instructions say it can be used "in close proximity" to the
handle...) but a couple of rooms away allows you to have the monitor
close to a tape recorder or computer if you want to save the video you
are looking at without having the recording unit in the garage or near
the work being examined (it comes with a cable to output the image for
recording or storing.)
I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when
I was playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by
either the flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have the
monitor standing still in front of you while you maneuver the camera.
It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under
their own name, no longer have that option.
Harley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
Carlos Trigo wrote:
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless
Inspection Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
Carlos
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paul wilson <pwmac(at)sisna.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade handheld antenna |
Hi Rick,
I just got finished with antenna tuning on all my vhf radios. Made
a big difference. Like you I use lengths for my common freq.
If you go to the Ham radio store they will sell you a VHF Whip
antenna for a hand held. It will make a huge difference. Mine is
~16.7" long. They have adapters for the different connectors as
required. I have not used the rubber ducky since I got the whip
antenna. Obviously the one I bought was not tuned for 127 but the swr
is just fine across a large range of freqs. Maybe they will have a 22
or 23' one?
BTW, Correct length for 127 is 22.1" for 1/4 wave per my calcs. Cut
yours 23" an then re-cut for best swr.
Paul
=========
At 08:58 AM 6/18/2009, Rick wrote:
>Bob, Just got through mounting my A-22 handheld in my trike. Now I'm
>wondering about a better antenna than the rubber ducky that it came
>with. Calculated length for a 1/4 wave centered on 127Mhz is 23.25".
>I'm thinking of nothing more than a piece of 1/16" SS welding wire
>shoved into a BNC connector. Any input by radio heads will be
>greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Inspection camera |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Stapleton" <foto(at)alaska.net> |
| Subject: | Homemade handheld antenna |
I mounted an antennae on my( Antares ) trike using a 1/4 wave whip on
the wing keel tube and ran the coax down the vertical mast with a BNC
adapter on my VXA-700 and it works fine. It is a bit directional though
and the next time I will mount it in on the bottom of the pod and put at
least a six inch diameter metal disk around the antennae mount.
RS
Rob Stapleton, Photojournalist
Anchorage, AK
KL2AN
Skype:rob.stapleton.jr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 8:40 AM
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Homemade handheld antenna
Rick -
That will work, but I'd suggest a piece of music wire rather than
stainless.
Music wire will accept solder, so you can solder the wire to the BNC
center
pin for a better electrical connection (then pot it with epoxy for
strain-relief). You'll also be happier if you put a tight 180-deg bend
or
small loop in the end (also soldered) to mitigate scratches, snags and
gouged eyes.
Neal
=================
Bob, Just got through mounting my A-22 handheld in my trike. Now I'm
wondering about a better antenna than the rubber ducky that it came
with.
Calculated length for a 1/4 wave centered on 127Mhz is 23.25". I'm
thinking
of nothing more than a piece of 1/16" SS welding wire shoved into a BNC
connector. Any input by radio heads will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Good Afternoon Harley and All,
Went to Harbor Freight this morning and picked up my unit.
I also learned something that many of you may already know. When you
receive a Harbor Freight Sale flyer, the ones that need a coupon to get th
e
lower price are the ones that have a barcode included in the ad. If you do
not
have the flyer with you, they generally have the flyer available in the
store, but you will NOT get the sale price unless they can a scan the barc
ode
on the advertisement.
The little monitor and camera did not have a barcode so you would get that
price without any effort on your part. However, I did pick up a few other
items that were cheaper by having the coupons available to be scanned.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark
LL22
In a message dated 6/18/2009 7:26:42 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
harley(at)agelesswings.com writes:
Another day, more testing of this neat little camera! This morning (a
very rainy, wet morning here...good day to play inside! ), I set it up
in
my "computer room" (a converted bedroom on the west most end of my house),
disconnected the monitor and walked around the house.
I had a steady image until I got about 25 feet away, in the hall to my
kitchen, but even then, never totally lost the image in the house. Went
out
into my attached garage (~60 feet from the camera) and also down into the
cellar.
What did happen was that I would start getting a couple of regular
horizontal flash-like lines as the signal became weaker...never bothered
the
readability of the image though. The only time I lost the image altogeth
er was
when I went out into my front yard. But it returned immediately if I back
ed
up a couple of feet.
What this all means for me, is that I can set the monitor up to record to
the computer in the computer room, and check out things just about anywhe
re
in my house, including the garage and cellar. Of course things may chang
e
when I start moving the camera instead of the monitor!
Found another similar device online that uses a separate monitor, and can
be recorded directly into the monitor. The V-Snake (
_www.privatebrandtools.com/wireless.htm_ (http://www.privatebrandtools.com
/wireless.htm) ).
But the base unit (without the record function) is $500, and the recordin
g
option adds another $400 to the price.
Harley
____________________________________
Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being attached
to the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to the fact that
to
work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume that turns on the receiver
),
the HANDLE has to be on (the transmitter as well as the camera and the
light) AND the monitor display has to be turned on.
Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one switch to do
it all!
I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away from the
camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it can be removed
(the
instructions say it can be used "in close proximity" to the handle...) bu
t
a couple of rooms away allows you to have the monitor close to a tape
recorder or computer if you want to save the video you are looking at wit
hout
having the recording unit in the garage or near the work being examined
(it
comes with a cable to output the image for recording or storing.)
I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when I was
playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by either the
flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have the monitor standin
g
still in front of you while you maneuver the camera.
It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under their
own name, no longer have that option.
Harley
____________________________________
Carlos Trigo wrote:
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised =9CWireless Inspec
tion
Camera=9D and it comes with =9C3 ft flexible extended tube
=9D ?
Is the =9Cwireless=9D referring to the (battery) power only?
Carlos
========================
============
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List)
========================
============
========================
============
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
========================
============
**************Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday!
=http:%2F%2F
ad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215692163%3B38015526%3Be)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of hours about
the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it just me as all the
other posts open OK?
-----Original Message-----
From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Thu, Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
If your mail reader has an option to "view message source" or something
similar, you can see David's messages. I have the same problem with my
mail reader on a few messages. I'm not sure what causes the problem,
except that the un-viewable message is some sort of html format but it
comes into my mail reader as plain text.
My grandfather would have said, "it's one of those modern
inconveniences".
Bob W.
Here is the fourth message David posted as viewed from source:
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have a little concern about using the clamp-on attachments. The
mirror is an absolute must when checking in the cylinders for just that
purpose - checking the valves. However, I am worried about the
mirror coming off while still inside the cylinder. That will be a
major pain... Does it seem sturdy enough to you guys? You
don't think it will come off?
Thanks,
David M.
wrbyars(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of hours about
the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it just me as all the
other posts open OK?
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 06/18/2009 03:15 PM, wrbyars(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> *I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of
> hours about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it
> just me as all the other posts open OK?
> *
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
From reading the e-mail headers from David's message, it looks like
David is using the AVG mail virus scanner, which has known problems in
sending out e-mails that other e-mail clients cannot read. It is
showing up blank on my system, too.
David, you may wish to consider removing the AVG virus scanner, and
use another virus scanner instead, or disable AVG from scanning outgoing
e-mails if that is possible.
fyi
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Nope...not just you...David's posts have been coming through empty here
as well...the blank space below David's header (as seen below) is just
what I've been receiving as well.
David...since I started this thread, why don't you email me directly and
we'll try to see what is going on...
harley(at)agelesswings.com
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
wrbyars(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> *I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of
> hours about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it
> just me as all the other posts open OK?
> *
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
>
>
> Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday!
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ray <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
They were blank to me also.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst"
wrbyars(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> *I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of
> hours about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it
> just me as all the other posts open OK?
> *
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
>
>
>
>
>
> Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday!
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
The thought that too.. But I messed around and found that if I select
"View Message Details" on my webmail page I can see the text of David's
messages.
Matt-
>
>
> I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of hours
> about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it just me
> as all the other posts open OK?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
It is not just you. I too do not see anything.
Dick Tasker
wrbyars(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> *I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of
> hours about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it
> just me as all the other posts open OK?
> *
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
>>However, I did pick up a few other items that were cheaper<<
I have that problem as well, Old Bob...I can't go into Harbor Freight
without picking up something more than I was looking for...even if it's
nothing but another box of nitrile gloves!
Speaking of which...one of our list members sent me a private email this
morning...he wants one of those cameras but was in an area where there
is no Harbor Freight (Portugal! ). so I went to another local HF
(the one here in Henrietta was out of them) and bought one for him (he
said that he had access to an adapter for the US voltage and also didn't
care if it was NTSC monitor). Just sent it off to him.
While there, I was telling the manager what I was going to do with it,
and he offered to sell me the other two he had left in stock as well! I
bought them!
So! I have two more for sale, if any of you are not near a Harbor
Freight, want one of these fine Harbor Freight Wireless Inspection
Cameras and are thinking about getting one of these from their website,
I'll sell you one for their price of $99.99 plus tax ($8) and
shipping...it'll still be less than the online price for it (the order
to Portugal with shipping came in almost $10 less than the online price!)
Let me know...
If I don't sell them, I'm not out anything(except for the gas money for
the 35 mile round trip...but I like to drive anyway!), as HF will always
take them back, so don't feel you have to..
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
BobsV35B(at)aol.com wrote:
> Good Afternoon Harley and All,
>
> Went to Harbor Freight this morning and picked up my unit.
>
> I also learned something that many of you may already know. When you
> receive a Harbor Freight Sale flyer, the ones that need a coupon to
> get the lower price are the ones that have a barcode included in the
> ad. If you do not have the flyer with you, they generally have the
> flyer available in the store, but you will NOT get the sale price
> unless they can a scan the barcode on the advertisement.
>
> The little monitor and camera did not have a barcode so you would get
> that price without any effort on your part. However, I did pick up a
> few other items that were cheaper by having the coupons available to
> be scanned.
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
> Stearman N3977A
> Brookeridge Airpark
> LL22
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Now that we know what David said:
"I have a little concern about using the clamp-on attachments. The
mirror is an absolute must when checking in the cylinders for just that
purpose - checking the valves. However, I am worried about the
mirror coming off while still inside the cylinder. That will be a
major pain... Does it seem sturdy enough to you guys? You
don't think it will come off?"
First, the mirror is very securely mounted to the shaft it's on. It is
mounted with a loop at the end of the shaft so that it would have to be
rotated over 270 degrees on the mount to even loosen it. And the shaft
is then mounted through the locking collar that goes around the camera
with a couple of bends in it...one is back on itself so that a pull in
either direction will actually tighten it in the clamp. Last the clamp
has a latching feature on it, so when mounted to the camera, it
surrounds an indent in the camera body and is no larger diameter than
the camera, and locked in place. I found it's a bit difficult to remove
once mounted!
Now, in the event that it DOES come off (and I can't see how), you can
simply use the magnet or the hook to retrieve it!
Harley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
I don't think AVG's the problem...I'm using it too...have for years...as
well as just about everyone I know locally. We've never had a problem
with sending emails.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From reading the e-mail headers from David's message, it looks like
> David is using the AVG mail virus scanner, which has known problems in
> sending out e-mails that other e-mail clients cannot read. It is
> showing up blank on my system, too.
>
> David, you may wish to consider removing the AVG virus scanner, and
> use another virus scanner instead, or disable AVG from scanning outgoing
> e-mails if that is possible.
>
> fyi
>
> -Dj
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Curry" <don.curry(at)inbox.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection camera |
I got mine this morning, too. I took a quick look to see if HF had a
plastic box the foam padding would fit in, but I didn't have enough time
to
do a thorough search. From what I could tell, one of the
compartmentalized
plastic boxes seemed just about perfect except for the handle. I
suspect
the scope items could be reconfigured in the foam for a nice fit, but I
couldn't tell for sure. Anybody find a good plastic storage box for it
yet?
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobsV35B(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
Good Afternoon Harley and All,
Went to Harbor Freight this morning and picked up my unit.
I also learned something that many of you may already know. When you
receive
a Harbor Freight Sale flyer, the ones that need a coupon to get the
lower
price are the ones that have a barcode included in the ad. If you do not
have the flyer with you, they generally have the flyer available in the
store, but you will NOT get the sale price unless they can a scan the
barcode on the advertisement.
The little monitor and camera did not have a barcode so you would get
that
price without any effort on your part. However, I did pick up a few
other
items that were cheaper by having the coupons available to be scanned.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Airpark
LL22
In a message dated 6/18/2009 7:26:42 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
harley(at)agelesswings.com writes:
Another day, more testing of this neat little camera! This morning (a
very
rainy, wet morning here...good day to play inside! ), I set it up in
my
"computer room" (a converted bedroom on the west most end of my house),
disconnected the monitor and walked around the house.
I had a steady image until I got about 25 feet away, in the hall to my
kitchen, but even then, never totally lost the image in the house. Went
out
into my attached garage (~60 feet from the camera) and also down into
the
cellar.
What did happen was that I would start getting a couple of regular
horizontal flash-like lines as the signal became weaker...never bothered
the
readability of the image though. The only time I lost the image
altogether
was when I went out into my front yard. But it returned immediately if I
backed up a couple of feet.
What this all means for me, is that I can set the monitor up to record
to
the computer in the computer room, and check out things just about
anywhere
in my house, including the garage and cellar. Of course things may
change
when I start moving the camera instead of the monitor!
Found another similar device online that uses a separate monitor, and
can be
recorded directly into the monitor. The V-Snake (
www.privatebrandtools.com/wireless.htm ). But the base unit (without
the
record function) is $500, and the recording option adds another $400 to
the
price.
Harley
_____
Carlos...the monitor slides off and can be viewed without being attached
to
the handle. No wires. It takes awhile to get used to the fact that to
work, the monitor POWER has to be on (I assume that turns on the
receiver),
the HANDLE has to be on (the transmitter as well as the camera and the
light) AND the monitor display has to be turned on.
Maybe that's why they permanently mounted the monitor in later
models...without the transmitter and receiver, only need one switch to
do it
all!
I played with it last night and took the monitor two rooms away from the
camera and still had a picture...have no idea how far it can be removed
(the
instructions say it can be used "in close proximity" to the handle...)
but a
couple of rooms away allows you to have the monitor close to a tape
recorder
or computer if you want to save the video you are looking at without
having
the recording unit in the garage or near the work being examined (it
comes
with a cable to output the image for recording or storing.)
I saw a big advantage to being able to disconnect the monitor when I was
playing around last night. When you are moving the camera by either the
flexible cable or the handle, it's a big help to have the monitor
standing
still in front of you while you maneuver the camera.
It looks like the newer models that Ridgid is still selling under their
own
name, no longer have that option.
Harley
_____
Carlos Trigo wrote:
Can somebody please explain why is it advertised "Wireless Inspection
Camera" and it comes with "3 ft flexible extended tube" ?
Is the "wireless" referring to the (battery) power only?
Carlos
List
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.
matro
nics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
_____
Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 06/18/2009 04:13 PM, Harley wrote:
> I don't think AVG's the problem...I'm using it too...have for
> years...as well as just about everyone I know locally. We've never
> had a problem with sending emails.
>
We've had several problems with AVG and e-mail (I work in computing
support at a local College). Disabling AVG has fixed it every time, so
far. I can't say that every version of AVG has a problem, but most
definitely some do.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | iNSPECTION CAMERA |
I've been thinking about a device such as this for some time and want to thank
all of you who have and are contributing to the thread. This is certianly a good
price and I intend to get one in a couple of days if my Tulsa store has any;
which a lot of times they don't have what is advertized because of POOR, or
lack of, management.
I was curious about the apparent lack of focus for close ups and wondered if the
camera could be replaced with a better quality? I get catalogs from suppliers
of security equipment that has all sizes of these little cameras and they are
relatively inexpensive.
Maybe one of you fellas with the proper skills could look into this and also check
the spec's on the RIGID brand accessories smaller camera, or whomever, and
see what it's capabilities are.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Tim Yoder" <ftyoder(at)yoderbuilt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Nothing came through.
----- Original Message -----
From: wrbyars(at)aol.com
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of
hours about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it
just me as all the other posts open OK?
-----Original Message-----
From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Inspection camera
Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Inspection camera |
This thread got me curious as to what other borescopes in the $100-$150
price range were available. Here=99s a list of a few. I
don=99t know squat about any of them.
http://tinyurl.com/n4sgbo
http://tinyurl.com/m5kscj Dental camera, seems to offer serious
detail viewing
http://tinyurl.com/nsegl4 fiber optic, no light, no power reqd
http://tinyurl.com/me83ut powered by USB port
http://tinyurl.com/mqu9vk
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber-833
Another HF borescope$300
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91565
HF again, $200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <rv6a(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Shower of Sparks Help |
Hi Bob
I wired my RV6A (I think) according to your Shower of Sparks info I
found on the Internet. I did this quite awhile ago, and just got around
to a planned first start today. In doing some preliminary checking with
the plugs out before the start, it appears I have both mags producing
sparks in the start mode. The mags, vibrator and ignition switch all
came out of the same aircraft (R22), thus I know they were compatible at
one time.
Is there something obvious I should check that may be causing this
problem?
Can continuity of the wires be checked while still attached to the
swithch?
Thanks in advance.
John Crate
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:12 PM
Subject: [Bulk] Re: AeroElectric-List: Tyco Breakers
At 12:08 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with the Tyco Rocker type
switch/breaker?
They are specified in the Digi-Key PTM as "secondary breakers",
which must be backed up by a branch circuit breaker or fuse
http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/TycoElectronicsPB/CircuitBreakers_NoAud
io/CircuitBreakers_NoAudio.html .
This would seem to defeat the purpose of having the breaker in the
first place. What am I missing?
Beats me. This is the first time I've seen that
terminology used in describing the application
of circuit protection. Did some searching and found
this tid-bit . . .
This was excerpted from a book on wiring
design for large AC power distribution systems.
I don't think this applies to our 14/28V DC
systems in light aircraft.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera |
Test 2:
Ok, html is explicitly off and scanning outgoing messages is off in AVG.
David
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 06/18/2009 03:15 PM, wrbyars(at)aol.com wrote:
>> *I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of
>> hours about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it
>> just me as all the other posts open OK?
>> *
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
>
> From reading the e-mail headers from David's message, it looks like
> David is using the AVG mail virus scanner, which has known problems in
> sending out e-mails that other e-mail clients cannot read. It is
> showing up blank on my system, too.
>
> David, you may wish to consider removing the AVG virus scanner, and
> use another virus scanner instead, or disable AVG from scanning outgoing
> e-mails if that is possible.
>
> fyi
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera: now, test 3 |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inspection camera |
Hi David,
This last one came through just fine. Test 1 had the same problem. I
suspect turning html off probably fixed the problem. Email used to be
a plain text world. :) Was there anything different in test 1?
Bob W.
"David M." wrote:
>
> Test 2:
>
> Ok, html is explicitly off and scanning outgoing messages is off in AVG.
>
> David
>
>
>
> Dj Merrill wrote:
> >
> > On 06/18/2009 03:15 PM, wrbyars(at)aol.com wrote:
> >> *I have opened the (4) e-mails you have posted in the last couple of
> >> hours about the inspection camera and there is nothing to read. Is it
> >> just me as all the other posts open OK?
> >> *
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: David M. <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
> >
> > From reading the e-mail headers from David's message, it looks like
> > David is using the AVG mail virus scanner, which has known problems in
> > sending out e-mails that other e-mail clients cannot read. It is
> > showing up blank on my system, too.
> >
> > David, you may wish to consider removing the AVG virus scanner, and
> > use another virus scanner instead, or disable AVG from scanning outgoing
> > e-mails if that is possible.
> >
> > fyi
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera: now, test 3 |
Maybe not. The problem is back. What you did for Test 2 worked OK.
Must be that AVG thing.
Bob W.
"David M." wrote:
>
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera: now, test 3 |
Follow up. After looking at the source for test 2 and test 3, the
difference seems to be this line:
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="=======AVGMAIL-4DD03951======="
Also in test 3, these two lines:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
are located just before the actual message. In test 2, those two lines
were just after the Subject line and ahead of three other header
fields, so it seems AVG is reordering some thing before sending the
message on.
Bob W.
Bob White <bob@bob-white.com> wrote:
>
> Maybe not. The problem is back. What you did for Test 2 worked OK.
>
> Must be that AVG thing.
>
> Bob W.
>
>
> "David M." wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://roblinstores.com/
--=======AVGMAIL-4DD03951=======--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera: now, test |
3
avg outgoing checking off, html on.
David
David M. wrote:
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Mcculley" <mcculleyja(at)starpower.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Help |
John,
I'm not Bob, but are the mags both equipped with retard breaker points
as indicated by two connections on each mag? Are they Slick mags? What
are their part numbers? On most installations there will be different
part numbers with one (usually the left) being the retard breaker mag.
If they came off of a Helicopter engine (R22?)they might be using dual
retard breaker mags, which would provide TDC sparks from both mags
during start and then both reverting to normal (25 degree?advance) when
the start switch is released from the start position. This should be
good in the sense that easier starts would be expected because both sets
of plugs would be firing throughout the start up process.
Jim McCulley
=============================================================================
John wrote:
> Hi Bob
>
> I wired my RV6A (I think) according to your Shower of Sparks info I
> found on the Internet. I did this quite awhile ago, and just got around
> to a planned first start today. In doing some preliminary checking with
> the plugs out before the start, it appears I have both mags producing
> sparks in the start mode. The mags, vibrator and ignition switch all
> came out of the same aircraft (R22), thus I know they were compatible at
> one time.
>
> Is there something obvious I should check that may be causing this problem?
> Can continuity of the wires be checked while still attached to the swithch?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John Crate
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:12 PM
> *Subject:* [Bulk] Re: AeroElectric-List: Tyco Breakers
>
> At 12:08 PM 6/16/2009, you wrote:
>> Does anyone have any experience with the Tyco Rocker type
>> switch/breaker?
>>
>> They are specified in the Digi-Key PTM as "secondary breakers",
>> which must be backed up by a branch circuit breaker or fuse
>> http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/TycoElectronicsPB/CircuitBreakers_NoAudio/CircuitBreakers_NoAudio.html
>> .
>>
>> This would seem to defeat the purpose of having the breaker in the
>> first place. What am I missing?
>
> Beats me. This is the first time I've seen that
> terminology used in describing the application
> of circuit protection. Did some searching and found
> this tid-bit . . .
>
> Emacs!
>
>
> This was excerpted from a book on wiring
> design for large AC power distribution systems.
> I don't think this applies to our 14/28V DC
> systems in light aircraft.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection camera: now, test 3 |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 6/18/2009 8:38 PM, Bob White wrote:
> fields, so it seems AVG is reordering some thing before sending the
> message on.
Bob,
That is exactly the problem. AVG re-orders the header information for
the e-mail message, causing a lot of e-mail clients to incorrectly parse
the resulting message that is sent, resulting in a "blank" display
instead of the proper body text.
Turning off AVG scanning of outbound e-mail (both HTML and text) solves
the problem for us. Unfortunately, we believe that some AVG updates
turn the outbound e-mail scanning back on again... *sigh*
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: noisy tach signal |
At 04:12 PM 6/17/2009, you wrote:
>
>Thanks Bob. I don't have access to an o-scope so haven't been able
>to look at the signal. The only filtering I've tried is the simple
>wiring of a 0.1 uF cap from signal lead to ground. My other efforts
>at solving the problem have been trying various wiring routing
>changes and then changing the sensor leads to shielded cable.
>
>The sensor is a Westach Model 720-14R Hall effect sensor that screws
>into the Slick mag vent hole over the rotating magnets. Westach has
>been very responsive in trying to help solve the issue but no luck
>so far. They are going to send me a sensor that is driven off the
>mechanical drive (model 303DH2T) and I'll see if that works better,
>but they tell me the setup I have has worked for many others and I'm
>not sure what in my setup could be causing the problem. I haven't
>heard back from IK-Tech yet.
Hmmm . . . see if the IK-Tech will share a sketch
of a schematic for the first two stages of tach
signal conditioning. The manner in which bias levels
are established for any "squaring" or level sensing
circuits can have a profound effect on noise sensitivity.
The schematics (need parts values too) + 'scope trace
will permit a simple-ideas analysis of the symptoms.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Help |
At 05:50 PM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
>Hi Bob
>
>I wired my RV6A (I think) according to your Shower of Sparks info I
>found on the Internet. I did this quite awhile ago, and just got
>around to a planned first start today. In doing some preliminary
>checking with the plugs out before the start, it appears I have both
>mags producing sparks in the start mode. The mags, vibrator and
>ignition switch all came out of the same aircraft (R22), thus I know
>they were compatible at one time.
Here's a link to an article I did some years
ago on SOS systems . . . never quite got around
to polishing it up it but it's essentially complete.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Shower-of-Sparks/ShowerOfSparks.pdf
Only one mag with a second set of retard
points is hooked to the vibrator. The second
mag is prevented from operating by inclusion
of the GRD to R jumper shown in the first
of the two wiring diagrams. If both mags are
"active" then perhaps the jumper is not in
place.
How do you know that both mags are active?
Are you getting vibrator enhanced sparks from
both devices? They should not be sharing any
connections with the vibrator unless it's
specifically designed to handle a PAIR of
dual breaker mags.
Can you point me to the information you used
to do the wiring?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
>
>Felt Bob would take umbrage at the phrase the moment I
>pressed the send button. Okay, replace "does not approve
>of" with "discourages use of". Semantics anywhere but in a
>government bureaucracy.
You put words in my mouth still . . . my offering
of simple ideas for the use of switch breakers
pointed out that fact that switch breakers force
the builder to fabricate a distribution bus on
the panel . . . not unlike the breaker panels typical
of TC aircraft even today.
If one is favorably impressed with fuse blocks,
then the fabrication of bus bars is already
accomplished with a purchased part . . . and
can be mounted remotely from the panel. If one
has fuse blocks, then the only panel real
estate devoted to control/protection are the
necessary switches. All protected circuits
not requiring switches require no panel space.
If one chooses to use a combination of switch/breakers
and circuit/breakers, then the real estate budget
is affected. I prefer and RECOMMEND the low real
estate, low labor, low cost approach but I would
not discourage anyone from wiring their airplane
any way they wish that does not introduce hazardous
failure modes. Certainly choices of breakers, switch-
breakers and/or fuses do not offer great risks.
>
><< These are indeed Cadillac breaker/switches . . . with
>a price to match. >>
>
>Just went and looked. Airpax style R11-1-[amp] are
>available under $15. This is half the AS&S price of the
>Tyco thermal circuit breakers used in type certified
>aircraft.
The breakers in common to TC aircraft are mil-spec
devices with price tags commensurate with
their pedigree. There are other commercial/
industrial breakers to be had for less money . . .
the Airpax line you cited is but one.
> < But if your system design goals
>include achievement of failure tolerant design
>then the $extra$ cost only buys you a style
>of device and adds nothing to system reliability
>for the airplane.>>
>
>Here, Bob and I have disagreed before. To me, the probable
>reliability of this life rated switch/circuit breaker and
>two connections is not automatically worse than the switch,
>wire across the panel to a circuit breaker array and 4
>connections setup typical of most aircraft.
Breakers that assuage concerns for aircraft designers
have terminal bosses compatible with bus bars that
tie multiple devices together. Like . . .
Emacs!
The R11 has fast-on tabs that do not lend themselves
to direct connection to bus bars.
Emacs!
> As I said, my
>experience has been good, I'm confident in the reliability
>of the device, I like the simplified wiring and also like
>the reduced panel usage.
As to absolute reliability, the numbers are
inversely proportional to parts count and without
a doubt, the breaker/switch is more complex than
the plain switch. Reliability is inarguable.
Bonanza and Baron owners are presently saddled
with some parts-count issues in the utilization
of this breaker/switch . . .
Emacs!
It's a sure bet that they're wishing we'd not
strayed from the simple breaker-panel, switch-
panel architecture common to most other airplanes.
This albatross involves about 80,000 fielded
breaker/switches.
But had you chosen fuse blocks and rocker
switches with fast-on tabs, you would be no
greater parts count than using toggle switches
with fast-on tabs. Further, you would not have
to wrestle with the bus-bar connection issues
presented by fast-on tabs.
>
><< I've not seen this class of breaker used
>anywhere on a TC aircraft of any size or
>price. >>
>
>Which is one of the reasons we build experimental aircraft,
>so we can use stuff the TC world doesn't.
Absolutely! An if you're pleased with the outcome
of your choices, I'm pleased for you. But kindly
refrain from mis-representing my mission here on the List.
When I offer a particular recipe for success, it's
supported by an analysis of design goals that
I'm willing to share and explain. There are certainly
other recipes that have met the builder's design goals . . .
yours included.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade handheld antenna |
At 09:58 AM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
>Bob, Just got through mounting my A-22 handheld in my trike. Now I'm
>wondering about a better antenna than the rubber ducky that it came
>with. Calculated length for a 1/4 wave centered on 127Mhz is 23.25".
>I'm thinking of nothing more than a piece of 1/16" SS welding wire
>shoved into a BNC connector. Any input by radio heads will be
>greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Rick
Rick, how are you sir! Long time no speak!
How well "exposed" is the rubber duck? Unless
your mounting situation masks the antenna with
nearby conductive structure, I don't think you
would benefit much from a more optimized antenna.
Your mission profile just doesn't call for getting
weather reports from an RCO that 100 miles out
on the horizon.
Have you encountered communications issues that
you thought might be improved by a better antenna?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: Tyco Breakers (Image corrected) |
>
>Felt Bob would take umbrage at the phrase the moment I
>pressed the send button. Okay, replace "does not approve
>of" with "discourages use of". Semantics anywhere but in a
>government bureaucracy.
You put words in my mouth still . . . my offering
of simple ideas for the use of switch breakers
pointed out that fact that switch breakers force
the builder to fabricate a distribution bus on
the panel . . . not unlike the breaker panels typical
of TC aircraft even today.
If one is favorably impressed with fuse blocks,
then the fabrication of bus bars is already
accomplished with a purchased part . . . and
can be mounted remotely from the panel. If one
has fuse blocks, then the only panel real
estate devoted to control/protection are the
necessary switches. All protected circuits
not requiring switches require no panel space.
If one chooses to use a combination of switch/breakers
and circuit/breakers, then the real estate budget
is affected. I prefer and RECOMMEND the low real
estate, low labor, low cost approach but I would
not discourage anyone from wiring their airplane
any way they wish that does not introduce hazardous
failure modes. Certainly choices of breakers, switch-
breakers and/or fuses do not offer great risks.
>
><< These are indeed Cadillac breaker/switches . . . with
>a price to match. >>
>
>Just went and looked. Airpax style R11-1-[amp] are
>available under $15. This is half the AS&S price of the
>Tyco thermal circuit breakers used in type certified
>aircraft.
The breakers in common to TC aircraft are mil-spec
devices with price tags commensurate with
their pedigree. There are other commercial/
industrial breakers to be had for less money . . .
the Airpax line you cited is but one.
> < But if your system design goals
>include achievement of failure tolerant design
>then the $extra$ cost only buys you a style
>of device and adds nothing to system reliability
>for the airplane.>>
>
>Here, Bob and I have disagreed before. To me, the probable
>reliability of this life rated switch/circuit breaker and
>two connections is not automatically worse than the switch,
>wire across the panel to a circuit breaker array and 4
>connections setup typical of most aircraft.
Breakers that assuage concerns for aircraft designers
have terminal bosses compatible with bus bars that
tie multiple devices together. Like . . .
Emacs!
The R11 has fast-on tabs that do not lend themselves
to direct connection to bus bars.
Emacs!
> As I said, my
>experience has been good, I'm confident in the reliability
>of the device, I like the simplified wiring and also like
>the reduced panel usage.
As to absolute reliability, the numbers are
inversely proportional to parts count and without
a doubt, the breaker/switch is more complex than
the plain switch. Reliability is inarguable.
Bonanza and Baron owners are presently saddled
with some parts-count issues in the utilization
of this breaker/switch . . .
Emacs!
It's a sure bet that they're wishing we'd not
strayed from the simple breaker-panel, switch-
panel architecture common to most other airplanes.
This albatross involves about 80,000 fielded
breaker/switches.
But had you chosen fuse blocks and rocker
switches with fast-on tabs, you would be no
greater parts count than using toggle switches
with fast-on tabs. Further, you would not have
to wrestle with the bus-bar connection issues
presented by fast-on tabs.
>
><< I've not seen this class of breaker used
>anywhere on a TC aircraft of any size or
>price. >>
>
>Which is one of the reasons we build experimental aircraft,
>so we can use stuff the TC world doesn't.
Absolutely! An if you're pleased with the outcome
of your choices, I'm pleased for you. But kindly
refrain from mis-representing my mission here on the List.
When I offer a particular recipe for success, it's
supported by an analysis of design goals that
I'm willing to share and explain. There are certainly
other recipes that have met the builder's design goals . . .
yours included.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Homemade handheld antenna |
| From: | Richard Girard <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
We've been missed by all the big storms again this spring and I count that a
long way toward things being pretty good.I'm expanding my mission profile by
taking the trike to its first towered airport for the chapter 980 Fly In at
IDP this Saturday. Rather than having to call ahead, I added a power tap
(21st century cigarette lighter receptacle) to the panel and a bracket from
the forward mast to attach the A-22. The radio stands atop the panel and the
rubber ducky, or any other antenna for that matter, stands vertically above
the wind screen. There's no structure exactly parallel to the antenna,
although the forward mast (a 1 1/4" aluminum tube) is about two inches from
the antenna base and this distance gradually increases.As I was out in the
hangar this evening my eyes fell on a disused telescoping antenna from an
ELT. Its BNC connector mates right up to the radio and gives me a "tunable"
length. What the heck, the price was certainly right.
Thanks to all who responded. Great help just a few keyboard clicks away.
Rick
On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 10:04 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 09:58 AM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
>
>> Bob, Just got through mounting my A-22 handheld in my trike. Now I'm
>> wondering about a better antenna than the rubber ducky that it came with.
>> Calculated length for a 1/4 wave centered on 127Mhz is 23.25". I'm thinking
>> of nothing more than a piece of 1/16" SS welding wire shoved into a BNC
>> connector. Any input by radio heads will be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rick
>>
>
> Rick, how are you sir! Long time no speak!
> How well "exposed" is the rubber duck? Unless
> your mounting situation masks the antenna with
> nearby conductive structure, I don't think you
> would benefit much from a more optimized antenna.
> Your mission profile just doesn't call for getting
> weather reports from an RCO that 100 miles out
> on the horizon.
>
> Have you encountered communications issues that
> you thought might be improved by a better antenna?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <rv6a(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Shower of Sparks Help |
Bob
The link you referenced below is the one I used to wire my SOS system
(Key Switch Controlled). The GRD to R jumper was checked and is in
place. The way that I know both mags are active is that, as a test
before first start, I pulled a plug wired to each mag and cranked the
starter to check for spark. . I don't know whether the vibrator was
working at the time.
Is there a way to check the keyed ignition switch to make sure it is
working properly? Could a faulty shield connection on the Right Mag at
either the switch or mag terminal cause the problem?
Thanks
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks Help
At 05:50 PM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
Hi Bob
I wired my RV6A (I think) according to your Shower of Sparks info I
found on the Internet. I did this quite awhile ago, and just got around
to a planned first start today. In doing some preliminary checking with
the plugs out before the start, it appears I have both mags producing
sparks in the start mode. The mags, vibrator and ignition switch all
came out of the same aircraft (R22), thus I know they were compatible at
one time.
Here's a link to an article I did some years
ago on SOS systems . . . never quite got around
to polishing it up it but it's essentially complete.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Shower-of-Sparks/ShowerOfSparks.pdf
Only one mag with a second set of retard
points is hooked to the vibrator. The second
mag is prevented from operating by inclusion
of the GRD to R jumper shown in the first
of the two wiring diagrams. If both mags are
"active" then perhaps the jumper is not in
place.
How do you know that both mags are active?
Are you getting vibrator enhanced sparks from
both devices? They should not be sharing any
connections with the vibrator unless it's
specifically designed to handle a PAIR of
dual breaker mags.
Can you point me to the information you used
to do the wiring?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Help |
If you have an A&P handy, he should be able to sort it out. You should
have two P leads to the left mag, only one to the right. Make sure when
key switch is off, mags are in fact grounded, before going further. TC
aircraft with the SOS system use a push to start Bendix switch(pricey at
$280)which operates the vibrator when turned to start, and only
activates the starter relay when pushed toward dash. That allows
checking for pulsing signal on retard breaker P lead.
If the mags are both firing when starter is activated, right mag P lead
isn't grounded.
John wrote:
>
>
> Bob
>
> The link you referenced below is the one I used to wire my SOS system
> (Key Switch Controlled). The GRD to R jumper was checked and is in
> place. The way that I know both mags are active is that, as a test
> before first start, I pulled a plug wired to each mag and cranked the
> starter to check for spark. . I don't know whether the vibrator was
> working at the time.
>
> Is there a way to check the keyed ignition switch to make sure it is
> working properly? Could a faulty shield connection on the Right Mag at
> either the switch or mag terminal cause the problem?
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:00 PM
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks Help
>
> At 05:50 PM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
>> Hi Bob
>>
>> I wired my RV6A (I think) according to your Shower of Sparks info
>> I found on the Internet. I did this quite awhile ago, and just
>> got around to a planned first start today. In doing some
>> preliminary checking with the plugs out before the start, it
>> appears I have both mags producing sparks in the start mode. The
>> mags, vibrator and ignition switch all came out of the same
>> aircraft (R22), thus I know they were compatible at one time.
>
> Here's a link to an article I did some years
> ago on SOS systems . . . never quite got around
> to polishing it up it but it's essentially complete.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Shower-of-Sparks/ShowerOfSparks.pdf
>
> Only one mag with a second set of retard
> points is hooked to the vibrator. The second
> mag is prevented from operating by inclusion
> of the GRD to R jumper shown in the first
> of the two wiring diagrams. If both mags are
> "active" then perhaps the jumper is not in
> place.
>
> How do you know that both mags are active?
> Are you getting vibrator enhanced sparks from
> both devices? They should not be sharing any
> connections with the vibrator unless it's
> specifically designed to handle a PAIR of
> dual breaker mags.
>
> Can you point me to the information you used
> to do the wiring?
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete Hunt <petehunt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wire Protection Question |
I am rebuilding the "Fat Wire" portion of my purchased RV-6A, moving the
battery and contactors to the engine side of the firewall.
Fig Z-11 does not show any protection on the 6AWG wire going from the
Battery Contactor to supply the Main Power Distribution Bus. In my case,
I am using a 12AWG wire, which passes through the firewall. Seems to me
this wire needs protection of some sort, such as a fusible link, or an
in-line fuse on the engine side of the firewall.
Looking for suggestions/recommendations, thanks!
Pete Hunt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Homemade handheld antenna |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, My apologies for missing part of you question last night. My primary
concern with the rubber ducky was its performance at low altitudes (200 to
500 feet) where I normally fly.
Rick
On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 10:04 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>
> At 09:58 AM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
>
>> Bob, Just got through mounting my A-22 handheld in my trike. Now I'm
>> wondering about a better antenna than the rubber ducky that it came with.
>> Calculated length for a 1/4 wave centered on 127Mhz is 23.25". I'm thinking
>> of nothing more than a piece of 1/16" SS welding wire shoved into a BNC
>> connector. Any input by radio heads will be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rick
>>
>
> Rick, how are you sir! Long time no speak!
> How well "exposed" is the rubber duck? Unless
> your mounting situation masks the antenna with
> nearby conductive structure, I don't think you
> would benefit much from a more optimized antenna.
> Your mission profile just doesn't call for getting
> weather reports from an RCO that 100 miles out
> on the horizon.
>
> Have you encountered communications issues that
> you thought might be improved by a better antenna?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ---------------------------------------
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ---------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
=======AVGMAIL-32A90303=======--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Protection Question |
At 02:31 AM 6/19/2009, you wrote:
>
>I am rebuilding the "Fat Wire" portion of my purchased RV-6A, moving
>the battery and contactors to the engine side of the firewall.
>Fig Z-11 does not show any protection on the 6AWG wire going from
>the Battery Contactor to supply the Main Power Distribution Bus. In
>my case, I am using a 12AWG wire, which passes through the firewall.
>Seems to me this wire needs protection of some sort, such as a
>fusible link, or an in-line fuse on the engine side of the firewall.
>
>Looking for suggestions/recommendations, thanks!
A 12AWG wire is probably too small to be
a bus feeder. When wiring with truly "fat"
wires (6AWG or larger) they're not at high
risk for burning due to shorts or overloads.
Take a look at the wiring diagrams for any
single engine TC aircraft and you'll find
that few if any will incorporate fuses or
current limiters in these pathways. This
philosophy is echoed in the FARS . . .
Sec. 23.1357 Circuit protective devices.
(a) Protective devices, such as fuses or circuit breakers, must be
installed in all electrical circuits other than--
(1) Main circuits of starter motors used during starting only; and
(2) Circuits in which no hazard is presented by their omission.
(b) A protective device for a circuit essential to flight safety may not be
used to protect any other circuit.
(c) Each resettable circuit protective device ("trip free" device in which
the tripping mechanism cannot be overridden by the operating control) must be
designed so that--
(1) A manual operation is required to restore service after tripping; and
(2) If an overload or circuit fault exists, the device will open the
circuit regardless of the position of the operating control.
(d) If the ability to reset a circuit breaker or replace a fuse is
essential to safety in flight, that circuit breaker or fuse must be so
located and identified that it can be readily reset or replaced in flight.
(e) For fuses identified as replaceable in flight--
(1) There must be one spare of each rating or 50 percent spare fuses of
each rating, whichever is greater; and
(2) The spare fuse(s) must be readily accessible to any required pilot.
In particular, paragraph 12.1357(a)(2) applies here.
Faulted robust wires generally arc to ground and
burn their faults clear. Further, they're easily
installed with attention to mechanical details such
that faults to ground are as probable as loosing
one's propeller due to bolt failure.
The Z-figures are crafted with this philosophy
in mind supported by a confidence in nearly 100
years of field history. I'll suggest that none
of your fat wires should be smaller than 6AWG
and that protection beyond what is illustrated
in the Z-figures is no-value-added weight, cost
and complexity.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade handheld antenna |
At 05:05 AM 6/19/2009, you wrote:
>Bob, My apologies for missing part of you question last night. My
>primary concern with the rubber ducky was its performance at low
>altitudes (200 to 500 feet) where I normally fly.
Understand. Given that your radio horizon is so
close compared to most airplanes, I'm doubtful
that improving antenna efficiency over that
of the rubber-duck will yield any improved
"range". In fact, depending on how well the
radio noise is controlled from your ignition
system, you might want to keep the antenna as
far from the engine as practical.
It's an easy test. Rig a temporary antenna
in your remote location of choice. We could
do some extreme range testing with the two
antennas to see if the extra effort has a
return on investment.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
Well, that settles that! For the message copied below () I turned on
my outgoing email scanner in AVG...and, voila! You couldn't see it!
So, AVG is the problem! And, oh, yeah...I turned it back off!
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harley wrote:
> =======AVGMAIL-32A90303=======--
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
The interesting thing is that I sent the same message to two other
accounts that I have (agelesswings and Frontiernet), and in both of
those, it came through fine???
So something in Aeroelectric might be "interacting" with it.
Harley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Harley wrote:
> Well, that settles that! For the message copied below () I turned
> on my outgoing email scanner in AVG...and, voila! You couldn't see it!
>
> So, AVG is the problem! And, oh, yeah...I turned it back off!
>
> Harley
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Harley wrote:
>> =======AVGMAIL-32A90303=======--
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Help |
At 11:45 PM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Bob
>
>The link you referenced below is the one I used to wire my SOS
>system (Key Switch Controlled). The GRD to R jumper was checked and
>is in place. The way that I know both mags are active is that, as a
>test before first start, I pulled a plug wired to each mag and
>cranked the starter to check for spark. . I don't know whether the
>vibrator was working at the time.
What kind of spark did you get? A magneto is
capable of delivering but a single spark per
ignition even. If the shower of sparks vibrator
system is working, the left magneto should
be delivering a continuous stream of sparks
during engine cranking. Should should also
be able to hear the vibrator "buzzing".
If the key switch is bad, then the mags
are NEVER being shut off . . . not a good
thing. Be sure your shield grounds are
properly and robustly wired as shown. It
could be that you're not getting the right
mag grounded because the shield is improperly
terminated at one end or both ends.
>
>
>Is there a way to check the keyed ignition switch to make sure it is
>working properly? Could a faulty shield connection on the Right Mag
>at either the switch or mag terminal cause the problem?
Sure. Leave the master switch off. Disconnect
the p-lead from the R mag and put an ohmmeter
between center conductor and shield.
Turn the key switch and watch ohmmeter. You should
read less than 1 ohm in all key switch positions
except "R" and "BOTH". In particular, you're
interested in seeing the R mag get shorted in the
START position which is what the jumper does for
you. If this doesn't happen, then the switch is
probably bad . . . but check the shield grounds
first. Check out this shield termination process
if you've not already seen it.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
I believe these key switches can be disassembled,
cleaned and lubricated. An alternative is to
use toggle switches as shown in the third
diagram. Much less expensive and easier to
maintain.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 6/19/2009 10:09 AM, Harley wrote:
> The interesting thing is that I sent the same message to two other
> accounts that I have (agelesswings and Frontiernet), and in both of
> those, it came through fine???
>
> So something in Aeroelectric might be "interacting" with it.
Hi Harley,
I've seen this happen with other mailing lists (non-Matronics), as well
as direct person to person. Sometimes the messages go through fine,
sometimes they don't. It has to do with the way that AVG modifies the
mail headers, which sometimes are okay, and more often are not. AVG
obviously has a bug in their software that they have not tracked down yet.
FWIW, while scanning incoming e-mail has definite merits for protecting
your computer, scanning outgoing e-mail has little value, so there
really is no significant harm in turning that function off.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> On 6/19/2009 10:09 AM, Harley wrote:
>
>> The interesting thing is that I sent the same message to two other
>> accounts that I have (agelesswings and Frontiernet), and in both of
>> those, it came through fine???
>>
>> So something in Aeroelectric might be "interacting" with it.
>>
>
> Hi Harley,
> I've seen this happen with other mailing lists (non-Matronics), as well
> as direct person to person. Sometimes the messages go through fine,
> sometimes they don't. It has to do with the way that AVG modifies the
> mail headers, which sometimes are okay, and more often are not. AVG
> obviously has a bug in their software that they have not tracked down yet.
>
> FWIW, while scanning incoming e-mail has definite merits for protecting
> your computer, scanning outgoing e-mail has little value, so there
> really is no significant harm in turning that function off.
>
Yeah...I thought the same thing...guess that's why I turned it off in
the first place, then promptly forgot about it!
H.
> -Dj
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
The camera just starts into a plug hole and binds. I bet one could
slightly shave the camera dia to get it in just fine. I don't yet have the
unit charged or AA's on hand, so I don't know how good a view of the piston
and valves you can get from the plug hole or with the mirror.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
Wouldn't it would be great if you could get it all the way in there and get
it stuck! :>)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
matejcek
Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 12:18 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes
-->
The camera just starts into a plug hole and binds. I bet one could slightly
shave the camera dia to get it in just fine. I don't yet have the unit
charged or AA's on hand, so I don't know how good a view of the piston and
valves you can get from the plug hole or with the mirror.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Thomas <lists(at)stevet.net> |
If your email client has the capability, you can select "View Message
Raw Source" (that is what my Mac Mail program calls it) and you will
be able to read the blank messages. The problem is a mis-formed HTML
tag at the beginning of the message. By reading the raw source, you
can pick out the message OK from the HTML tags, which are all present.
Steve Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
On Jun 19, 2009, at 9:17 AM, Harley wrote:
>
>
> Dj Merrill wrote:
>>
>>
>> On 6/19/2009 10:09 AM, Harley wrote:
>>
>>> The interesting thing is that I sent the same message to two other
>>> accounts that I have (agelesswings and Frontiernet), and in both of
>>> those, it came through fine???
>>>
>>> So something in Aeroelectric might be "interacting" with it.
>>>
>>
>> Hi Harley,
>> I've seen this happen with other mailing lists (non-Matronics), as
>> well
>> as direct person to person. Sometimes the messages go through fine,
>> sometimes they don't. It has to do with the way that AVG modifies
>> the
>> mail headers, which sometimes are okay, and more often are not. AVG
>> obviously has a bug in their software that they have not tracked
>> down yet.
>>
>> FWIW, while scanning incoming e-mail has definite merits for
>> protecting
>> your computer, scanning outgoing e-mail has little value, so there
>> really is no significant harm in turning that function off.
>>
> Yeah...I thought the same thing...guess that's why I turned it off
> in the first place, then promptly forgot about it!
>
> H.
>> -Dj
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Finch <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
Quoting glen matejcek :
>
>
> The camera just starts into a plug hole and binds. I bet one could
> slightly shave the camera dia to get it in just fine. I don't yet have the
> unit charged or AA's on hand, so I don't know how good a view of the piston
> and valves you can get from the plug hole or with the mirror.
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
Can those experienced in close inspection of cylinders and corrosion
comment on
the potential of this dental camera? http://tinyurl.com/m5kscj It would seem
to offer detailed, closeup, remote inspection, but never having used any
borescope I don't trust my own judgment.
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA USA
----------------------------------------------------------------
This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
This seems to be a week of internet problems. I cannot use tinyurl
successfully on this or any other link in a message. Can I ask that you
post the raw link instead of going through the Netherlands?
John Morgensen
Ralph Finch wrote:
>
> Can those experienced in close inspection of cylinders and corrosion
> comment on
> the potential of this dental camera? http://tinyurl.com/m5kscj It
> would seem
> to offer detailed, closeup, remote inspection, but never having used any
> borescope I don't trust my own judgment.
>
> Ralph Finch
> Davis, CA USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
This may look terrible:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HOME-USE-DENTAL-INTRA-ORAL-CAMERA-USB-Connection_W0QQitemZ370206256373QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5632032cf5&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A15|66%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50#ebayphotohosting
If it's broken, you can cut each little piece of the URL from this message
into the address window and it should work.
I had to chuckle about "130,000,0" Mega pixels.. Below, it does state a
more reasonable 1.3 Mega pixels.
Matt-
>
>
> This seems to be a week of internet problems. I cannot use tinyurl
> successfully on this or any other link in a message. Can I ask that you
> post the raw link instead of going through the Netherlands?
>
> John Morgensen
>
> Ralph Finch wrote:
>>
>> Can those experienced in close inspection of cylinders and corrosion
>> comment on
>> the potential of this dental camera? http://tinyurl.com/m5kscj It
>> would seem
>> to offer detailed, closeup, remote inspection, but never having used any
>> borescope I don't trust my own judgment.
>>
>> Ralph Finch
>> Davis, CA USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Quillin <rjquillin(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Protection Question |
At 06:52 6/19/2009, you wrote:
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wire Protection Question
>
>At 02:31 AM 6/19/2009, you wrote:
>>
>
> A 12AWG wire is probably too small to be
> a bus feeder. When wiring with truly "fat"
> wires (6AWG or larger) they're not at high
> risk for burning due to shorts or overloads.
> Take a look at the wiring diagrams for any
> single engine TC aircraft and you'll find
> that few if any will incorporate fuses or
> current limiters in these pathways. This
> philosophy is echoed in the FARS . . .
>
>
>Sec. 23.1357 Circuit protective devices.
>
>(a) Protective devices, such as fuses or circuit breakers, must be
>installed in all electrical circuits other than--
>(1) Main circuits of starter motors used during starting only; and
>(2) Circuits in which no hazard is presented by their omission.
Bob,
Trying to turn this into a learning/understanding moment, the above
leaves me a bit puzzled as to exactly when the omission of a
protective device would be considered to pose no hazard. Say one has
an AWG-6 feeder connected to the switched side of the master relay
and the conductor or a terminal faults to airframe. Alternator
current would be limited by the alternator breaker, good; but battery
current would only be limited by conductor, termination, device and
internal battery resistances. At first estimate this would seem to
be capable of generating a current well above the safe capacity of the AWG-6.
While my scope of knowledge is limited to but a small spectrum of
TC's aircraft, all have had some form of protection on large gauge
feeders. Specifically, for a PA-46-350, the only unprotected
unswitched circuit is termed the battery bus and supplies lights,
clock and ground clearance com.
This topic is of particular interest to me as we are currently
working on electrical system modifications for a Bellanca BL-17 and
found the local, SAN, FSDO and inspectors have conflicting thoughts
with what you have stated.
Appreciate any additional insight you may be able to provide.
Thanks
Ron Q.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
Ralph, you might have to be the guinea pig and let us know how it works
out. It doesn't look practical to me but I have very little experience
with borescopes in general.
Ralph Finch wrote:
>
>
> Quoting glen matejcek :
>
>>
>>
>> The camera just starts into a plug hole and binds. I bet one could
>> slightly shave the camera dia to get it in just fine. I don't yet
>> have the
>> unit charged or AA's on hand, so I don't know how good a view of the
>> piston
>> and valves you can get from the plug hole or with the mirror.
>>
>> glen matejcek
>> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
> Can those experienced in close inspection of cylinders and corrosion
> comment on
> the potential of this dental camera? http://tinyurl.com/m5kscj It
> would seem
> to offer detailed, closeup, remote inspection, but never having used any
> borescope I don't trust my own judgment.
>
> Ralph Finch
> Davis, CA USA
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
BTW,
There are other places to buy similar cameras:
http://foxtor.com/product_info.php?products_id=1432
I searched on Google for "dental oral usb camera".
Matt-
>
>
> This seems to be a week of internet problems. I cannot use tinyurl
> successfully on this or any other link in a message. Can I ask that you
> post the raw link instead of going through the Netherlands?
>
> John Morgensen
>
> Ralph Finch wrote:
>>
>> Can those experienced in close inspection of cylinders and corrosion
>> comment on
>> the potential of this dental camera? http://tinyurl.com/m5kscj It
>> would seem
>> to offer detailed, closeup, remote inspection, but never having used any
>> borescope I don't trust my own judgment.
>>
>> Ralph Finch
>> Davis, CA USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
| From: | "Matt Prather" <mprather(at)spro.net> |
Maybe an even better one(?):
http://www.armatexx.eu/consumerelectronics/product_info.php?info=p2407_Tubular-Inspection-Camera---USB-Wand-Digital-Camera-with-Lights.html
I searched for "usb inspection camera -microscope"
Matt-
>
>
> This seems to be a week of internet problems. I cannot use tinyurl
> successfully on this or any other link in a message. Can I ask that you
> post the raw link instead of going through the Netherlands?
>
> John Morgensen
>
> Ralph Finch wrote:
>>
>> Can those experienced in close inspection of cylinders and corrosion
>> comment on
>> the potential of this dental camera? http://tinyurl.com/m5kscj It
>> would seem
>> to offer detailed, closeup, remote inspection, but never having used any
>> borescope I don't trust my own judgment.
>>
>> Ralph Finch
>> Davis, CA USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
| From: | "Thruster87" <alania(at)optusnet.com.au> |
When doing cylinder wall inspections using a boroscope it's best to look at the
wall at 90deg.Spark plug holes may not be in the center of the cylinder it is
nice to have a flexible probe / pivoting mirror /camera view at least 90deg
to probe shaft as this allows you to see the valves. Cheers
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249163#249163
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
That's partly why the before-mentioned dental usb camera seemed it might
work: it's mounted at a right angle to the probe, fairly high magnification,
made for close work...and cheap.
Another one with 4 million pixels is at http://tinyurl.com/mcvhw8 $159
including shipping from China. Connect to a $400 laptop and you've got a
nice inspection device. Our manufacturing doesn't have a chance.
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-0MEGA-PIXELS-DENTAL-INTRA-ORAL-CAMERA-USB-CONNECTION_W
0QQitemZ320385953075QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4a987dad3
3&_trksid=p4634.m332.l1262
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Thruster87
Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 3:19 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Borescopes and sparkplug holes
When doing cylinder wall inspections using a boroscope it's best to look at
the wall at 90deg.Spark plug holes may not be in the center of the cylinder
it is nice to have a flexible probe / pivoting mirror /camera view at least
90deg to probe shaft as this allows you to see the valves. Cheers
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249163#249163
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Meyers <bobmeyers(at)meyersfamily.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Protection Question |
Did you miss this paragraph in Bob's message.
> In particular, paragraph 12.1357(a)(2) applies here.
Faulted robust wires generally arc to ground and
burn their faults clear. Further, they're easily
installed with attention to mechanical details such
that faults to ground are as probable as loosing
one's propeller due to bolt failure.
>
Robust mounting keeps that arcing end from moving so it burns the
fault clear. You just end up with a hole were the fault was.
Bob Meyers
Building Sonex 982SX Web Site Index http://meyersfamily.org/Sonex982.html
On Jun 19, 2009, at 3:53 PM, Ron Quillin wrote:
> At 06:52 6/19/2009, you wrote:
>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wire Protection Question
>>
>> At 02:31 AM 6/19/2009, you wrote:
>>> >
>>>
>>
>> A 12AWG wire is probably too small to be
>> a bus feeder. When wiring with truly "fat"
>> wires (6AWG or larger) they're not at high
>> risk for burning due to shorts or overloads.
>> Take a look at the wiring diagrams for any
>> single engine TC aircraft and you'll find
>> that few if any will incorporate fuses or
>> current limiters in these pathways. This
>> philosophy is echoed in the FARS . . .
>>
>>
>> Sec. 23.1357 Circuit protective devices.
>>
>> (a) Protective devices, such as fuses or circuit breakers, must be
>> installed in all electrical circuits other than--
>> (1) Main circuits of starter motors used during starting only; and
>> (2) Circuits in which no hazard is presented by their omission.
>
> Bob,
> Trying to turn this into a learning/understanding moment, the above
> leaves me a bit puzzled as to exactly when the omission of a
> protective device would be considered to pose no hazard. Say one
> has an AWG-6 feeder connected to the switched side of the master
> relay and the conductor or a terminal faults to airframe.
> Alternator current would be limited by the alternator breaker, good;
> but battery current would only be limited by conductor, termination,
> device and internal battery resistances. At first estimate this
> would seem to be capable of generating a current well above the safe
> capacity of the AWG-6.
>
> While my scope of knowledge is limited to but a small spectrum of
> TC's aircraft, all have had some form of protection on large gauge
> feeders. Specifically, for a PA-46-350, the only unprotected
> unswitched circuit is termed the battery bus and supplies lights,
> clock and ground clearance com.
>
> This topic is of particular interest to me as we are currently
> working on electrical system modifications for a Bellanca BL-17 and
> found the local, SAN, FSDO and inspectors have conflicting thoughts
> with what you have stated.
>
> Appreciate any additional insight you may be able to provide.
>
> Thanks
> Ron Q.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <rv6a(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Help |
Thanks again Bob for sharing your expertise... I'll confirm that the
vibrator is working and troubleshoot the system as suggested, but before
I do, could you please help me with a couple more questions I have
about the SOS system? With reference to the wire between the LR
terminal on the switch and the retard breaker on the left mag, is this
suppose to be a shielded wire with the shield running to GND the same as
the L & R p-lead? If not, what would be the consequences of using a
shielded wire with the shield running to the switch ground. I know I
used shielded wire for the retard breaker, but can't recall if I ran the
shield to ground. I haven't had a chance to pull the switch yet to
check.
Regards,
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks Help
At 11:45 PM 6/18/2009, you wrote:
Bob
The link you referenced below is the one I used to wire my SOS
system (Key Switch Controlled). The GRD to R jumper was checked and is
in place. The way that I know both mags are active is that, as a test
before first start, I pulled a plug wired to each mag and cranked the
starter to check for spark. . I don't know whether the vibrator was
working at the time.
What kind of spark did you get? A magneto is
capable of delivering but a single spark per
ignition even. If the shower of sparks vibrator
system is working, the left magneto should
be delivering a continuous stream of sparks
during engine cranking. Should should also
be able to hear the vibrator "buzzing".
If the key switch is bad, then the mags
are NEVER being shut off . . . not a good
thing. Be sure your shield grounds are
properly and robustly wired as shown. It
could be that you're not getting the right
mag grounded because the shield is improperly
terminated at one end or both ends.
Is there a way to check the keyed ignition switch to make sure it is
working properly? Could a faulty shield connection on the Right Mag at
either the switch or mag terminal cause the problem?
Sure. Leave the master switch off. Disconnect
the p-lead from the R mag and put an ohmmeter
between center conductor and shield.
Turn the key switch and watch ohmmeter. You should
read less than 1 ohm in all key switch positions
except "R" and "BOTH". In particular, you're
interested in seeing the R mag get shorted in the
START position which is what the jumper does for
you. If this doesn't happen, then the switch is
probably bad . . . but check the shield grounds
first. Check out this shield termination process
if you've not already seen it.
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
I believe these key switches can be disassembled,
cleaned and lubricated. An alternative is to
use toggle switches as shown in the third
diagram. Much less expensive and easier to
maintain.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pienaar" <mjpienaar(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Antenna and Balun dimensions |
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication.html
Saw the dimensions for this VOR antenna on the website. What would the
dimensions for a COM's antenna be and would I also use a balun
Thanks
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kuffel(at)cyberport.net" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
Bob Nuckolls said:
<< switch breakers force
the builder to fabricate a distribution bus on
the panel . . . not unlike the breaker panels typical
of TC aircraft even today. >>
<< Breakers that assuage concerns for aircraft designers
have terminal bosses compatible with bus bars that
tie multiple devices together. >>
Which is exactly what I did with my previous amateur built
aircraft using these breakers, connected all the breakers
together with one buss bar connected directly to the
terminals.
<< If one is favorably impressed with fuse blocks, >>
But I am not, which is the source of our differing approach.
My friend, the rich man's chief pilot, has just spent a
large part of the last seven years fighting with the maker
of their new model $47 million private jet over the fact
they wanted to make all the fuses totally inaccessible in
flight. Manufacturer lost the argument. Same principle
applies to single pilot small aircraft with the automobile
style fuse block.
All I'm saying is if you are among those of us who are
uncomfortable without access to our circuit protection
devices, the Snapak magnetic-hydraulic R11-1 style circuit
breaker/switch rated for use in life critical medical
devices (albeit not mil-spec) is a viable, lower cost,
simpler and possibly more reliable alternative to the TC
common practice of acres of breakers way over there and
switches way over here.
Tom Kuffel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna and Balun dimensions |
At 12:09 AM 6/20/2009, you wrote:
><http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication.html>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication.html
>
>
>Saw the dimensions for this VOR antenna on the website. What would
>the dimensions for a COM's antenna be and would I also use a balun
Is your comm antenna a vertical half wave dipole?
How do you get this much vertical disposition of
the elements on a small aircraft?
The dimensions would simply be reduced by about
10% to favor the comm band. 23" would be fine.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Protection Question |
>Bob,
>Trying to turn this into a learning/understanding moment, the above
>leaves me a bit puzzled as to exactly when the omission of a
>protective device would be considered to pose no hazard. Say one
>has an AWG-6 feeder connected to the switched side of the master
>relay and the conductor or a terminal faults to
>airframe. Alternator current would be limited by the alternator
>breaker, good; but battery current would only be limited by
>conductor, termination, device and internal battery resistances. At
>first estimate this would seem to be capable of generating a current
>well above the safe capacity of the AWG-6.
>
>While my scope of knowledge is limited to but a small spectrum of
>TC's aircraft, all have had some form of protection on large gauge
>feeders. Specifically, for a PA-46-350, the only unprotected
>unswitched circuit is termed the battery bus and supplies lights,
>clock and ground clearance com.
>
>This topic is of particular interest to me as we are currently
>working on electrical system modifications for a Bellanca BL-17 and
>found the local, SAN, FSDO and inspectors have conflicting thoughts
>with what you have stated.
>
>Appreciate any additional insight you may be able to provide.
The style of "protection" one might add to
fat wires in an array of battery/bus/cranking
feeders are like the ANL "current limiters"
found in the power distribution systems of
many larger aircraft.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuses/ANL-ANN_Current_Limiter.jpg
Fusing characteristics for these puppies are
shown here . . .
http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Fuses_and_Current_Limiters/Bussman/ANL_Specs.pdf
Suppose you decided to put an ANL200 in the
battery feeder for your project. Note in
the fusing plots above the ANL200 will carry
300A without breathing hard.
Now, what kind of fault can you imagine
that ties your feeders down so firmly to
the airframe that you'd expect battery fault
currents of 1000+ amps to flow? You're
going to rub off some insulation and have
some low pressure, flying fault that
arcs a lot and intermittently draws hundreds
of amps . . . but is unlikely to open the
ANL limiter. In facdt, you'll find that
the copper is barely damaged compared to
adjacent aluminum that simply burns clear
without even warming up your feed wire.
Have your skeptics research the wiring
diagrams for the host of S.E. aircraft
produced in the hundreds of thousands
for nearly 100 years and they'll note
a not so curious absence of fuses/breakers
in the fat wire feeders . . .
These wires seldom get faulted and when
they do, the event is so benign that
the current protection doesn't operate
before arcing burns the fault clear.
It's a lot of careful design and hard work
to bring two conductors together to be
an efficient conductor of hundreds of amps.
It just doesn't happen accidently.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
>All I'm saying is if you are among those of us who are
>uncomfortable without access to our circuit protection
>devices, the Snapak magnetic-hydraulic R11-1 style circuit
>breaker/switch rated for use in life critical medical
>devices (albeit not mil-spec) is a viable, lower cost,
>simpler and possibly more reliable alternative to the TC
>common practice of acres of breakers way over there and
>switches way over here.
To each his own. Fly comfortably sir!
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks Help |
At 10:38 PM 6/19/2009, you wrote:
>Thanks again Bob for sharing your expertise...
My pleasure sir.
>I'll confirm that the vibrator is working and troubleshoot the
>system as suggested, but before I do, could you please help me with
>a couple more questions I have about the SOS system? With
>reference to the wire between the LR terminal on the switch and the
>retard breaker on the left mag, is this suppose to be a shielded
>wire with the shield running to GND the same as the L & R
>p-lead? If not, what would be the consequences of using a shielded
>wire with the shield running to the switch ground. I know I used
>shielded wire for the retard breaker, but can't recall if I ran the
>shield to ground. I haven't had a chance to pull the switch yet to check.
This lead is 'hot' only while cranking the
engine and doesn't represent a potential noise
source after the engine is running. I've seen
systems where the designer shielded all the wires
but most will leave this one un-shielded.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
| From: | "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
This doesn't answer your post directly but you might find it interesting: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=42872
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249232#249232
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Protection Question |
>First, thank you for your response to my original question. If I am
>following your logic: A fat wire, if shorted to airframe
>ground, will burn away the nearby aluminum ground fault very
>quickly, and thereby eliminate the immediate problem.
>
>If that is so, then the next question would seem to be: Why protect
>the relatively short B-Lead that goes to-from the alternator, as it
>can be easily physically protected in a similar manner to the bus feed wire.
Because the fault risk there is not to the
wire itself but for the potential of diodes
shorting in the alternator. This failure
would probably burn wires in the alternator.
That's probably the least "useful" of the fat-wire
feeder fuses. Probability of diodes shorting
in modern alternators is exceedingly low.
That fuse or breaker can probably be eliminated
with little risk. Cars have never used
this fuse. Early cars burned some wires . . .
later ones added fusible links in the system
to limit the amount of wire that needed to
be replaced after a "burn".
>And a second question: Why use an AWG-6 wire to supply a main bus
>that only has a 20 amp max load?
Because to qualify as a fat-feeder with
little use for protection, the wire needs to
be more robust than the fault site conductors that
would put it at risk. We protect the little
guys because flying faults will often burn
them . . . a distribution fat-wire unworthy of
protection needs to be in the robust class.
I've never seen any rules of thumb but my
sense is that wires in the 10 to 6AWG range
are in a grey area and I'd probably fuse them.
A short 6AWG or larger bus feeder is probably
good to go without specific protection other than
extra attention to support and isolation from
potentially hazardous mechanical damage.
>Struggling to understand in a few weeks what you have learned in an
>entire career!!!!............
No hurry my friend. We've got all the time
you need.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
| From: | "dhammer" <donald.hammer(at)gmail.com> |
[quote]
But I am not, which is the source of our differing approach.
My friend, the rich man's chief pilot, has just spent a
large part of the last seven years fighting with the maker
of their new model $47 million private jet over the fact
they wanted to make all the fuses totally inaccessible in
flight. Manufacturer lost the argument. Same principle
applies to single pilot small aircraft with the automobile
style fuse block.
Tom Kuffel[/quote]
Tom,
I spend my life with private Jets. I've never seen fuses in the cockpit, only
circuit breakers. Any fuses or current limiters in transport category aircraft,
and there are hundreds, are always located where the crew can't touch them,
along with many of the breakers they don't want the pilot to have access to.
You just don't want some stupid pilot starting a fire playing with them. The
rule that has always been pounded into my head is to accept the loss and fly
the plane, not try and fix it. That's how L-1011's end up in the swamp while
pilots are trying to change gear indicator bulbs.
The only aircraft I'm aware of that has few, but not no, breakers in the cockpit
is Bombardier's Global Express. It does, however, have remote breakers controlled
by screens in the cockpit. It saves a huge amount of weight running wires
all the way from the hell hole to the cockpit and back. Also the usability
for the crew goes way up. They can see all systems effected when a breaker
is popped and can isolate a bus at will. Also, if one pops you get a message.
That being said, no manufacturer is going to change his Type Certificated product
based on the whims of some ego-centric pilot. Funny, but the buyer of that
$47M aircraft is sitting in the back. That's the ones the manufacturer's listen
to and not the hired hands up front. Trust me on that one.
Cockpits and panel layout of all new aircraft are now part of the certificate and
short of adding a third something cannot be altered without a big STC project.
I'd be interested in knowing what aircraft model you are talking about.
Cheers,
Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249246#249246
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Borescopes and sparkplug holes |
Marc,
VERY COOL! Thanks!
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Aircraft Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Jun 20, 2009, at 11:58, marcausman wrote:
> >
>
> This doesn't answer your post directly but you might find it
> interesting: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=42872
>
> --------
> Marc Ausman
> http://www.verticalpower.com
> RV-7 IO-390 Flying
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249232#249232
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hand" <chris_hand(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: noisy tach signal |
Thanks Bob, fortunately it appears there was a simple solution that will
avoid troubleshooting efforts at the circuit level.....it appears the
720-14R hall effect sender I had installed was defective as I replaced it
with a new one this evening and after a ground run and short test flight,
everything seems to be working normally now.
Westach has been very good about helping me with this issue on getting their
sender to work with the IK unit and they sent me several sender types to
try, including a new replacement for what I was using. Excellent customer
service and tech support from Westach.
I didn't get to the point of using the other sender options they sent as the
first thing I did was try the straight replacement for what I had. So my
lesson learned is that yes, sometimes a brand new sensor/sender can be bad
right out of the box. What I don't understand is how a defective hall
effect sender would cause indications of noise issues when the mag it's
installed in is running but work normally when that mag is secured.....but
I've got a working tach now, so I'm happy!
Chris
>
>
>
> Hmmm . . . see if the IK-Tech will share a sketch
> of a schematic for the first two stages of tach
> signal conditioning. The manner in which bias levels
> are established for any "squaring" or level sensing
> circuits can have a profound effect on noise sensitivity.
> The schematics (need parts values too) + 'scope trace
> will permit a simple-ideas analysis of the symptoms.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | antenna mounting |
| From: | "jetech" <av8tor(at)hughes.net> |
I am looking for ideas on mounting a antenna for a hand held VHF radio on a steel
tube fabric covered airplane.
The original idea was to just use the short supplied antenna but it has been suggested
that I could get better range with a mounted antenna.
Because of the original plan there wasn't any type of ground plane installed and
adding one may be difficult.
The plane is a Warner Sportster (new version of the Spacewalker II), it is a low
wing two place tandem open cockpit fuselage. There is a wood turtledeck that
runs from the aft cockpit to the tail.
About the best place would probably be on the belly but the ground plane would
probably have to be on top of the tubing (because of stringers) with some type
of spacer the length of the tube diameter to get the antenna base to the fabric.
I am guessing that a antenna mounted inside the tube fuselage would be a mute
point.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249344#249344
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tyco Breakers |
At 02:13 PM 6/20/2009, you wrote:
>
>[quote]
>But I am not, which is the source of our differing approach.
> My friend, the rich man's chief pilot, has just spent a
>large part of the last seven years fighting with the maker
>of their new model $47 million private jet over the fact
>they wanted to make all the fuses totally inaccessible in
>flight. Manufacturer lost the argument. Same principle
>applies to single pilot small aircraft with the automobile
>style fuse block.
>
>Tom Kuffel[/quote]
>
>
>Tom,
>
>I spend my life with private Jets. I've never seen fuses in the
>cockpit, only circuit breakers. Any fuses or current limiters in
>transport category aircraft, and there are hundreds, are always
>located where the crew can't touch them, along with many of the
>breakers they don't want the pilot to have access to. You just
>don't want some stupid pilot starting a fire playing with them. The
>rule that has always been pounded into my head is to accept the loss
>and fly the plane, not try and fix it. That's how L-1011's end up
>in the swamp while pilots are trying to change gear indicator bulbs.
Exactly. It's with this design goal in mind that
we strive for failure tolerant design. I.e., loss
of any single system should not put a mission at
risk for bent airplanes -OR- people. Better yet,
very low risk for even breaking a sweat.
To be sure, there are things we cannot make failure
tolerant. Wing struts, prop bolts, connecting rods,
etc. At the same time, we design those components with
some notion of robustness under normal use. Somehow,
it's easy to allow certain electro-whizzies to
take up residence in our "can't survive without it"
basket of thought. Hence, we worry about them a lot
and tend to get wrapped around a "push-the-breaker-
and-HOPE-it-will-stay on" mentality. But as I pointed
out some 15 years ago . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/fuseorcb.html
and elaborated upon it further 4 years later . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/fusvbkr2.html
. . . there are MANY ways an electro-whizzy can
wander into the weeds WITHOUT opening it's supply
circuit protection. Considering this inarguable fact,
it seems prudent to design one's electrical system
such that every device truly necessary for comfortable
termination of flight have an independent backup
. . . a Plan-B.
Once the design goal is achieved, then it matters
not what form the circuit protection takes nor
does it matter where that protection is located.
If one has plenty of panel space, low expectations
for overall electrical system reliability (day vfr,
fair weather flying) then covering the panel with
acres-of-breakers-and-switches may be satisfying
as a style statement . . . but adds nothing to
system reliability while adding burden to empty weight,
cockpit complexity, time to install and cost of
ownership.
The only aircraft I'm aware of that has few, but not no, breakers in
the cockpit is Bombardier's Global Express. It does, however, have
remote breakers controlled by screens in the cockpit. It saves a
huge amount of weight running wires all the way from the hell hole to
the cockpit and back. Also the usability for the crew goes way
up. They can see all systems effected when a breaker is popped and
can isolate a bus at will. Also, if one pops you get a message.
Yeah, I think Eclipse did this too.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna mounting |
At 09:04 AM 6/21/2009, you wrote:
>
>I am looking for ideas on mounting a antenna for a hand held VHF
>radio on a steel tube fabric covered airplane.
>
>The original idea was to just use the short supplied antenna but it
>has been suggested that I could get better range with a mounted antenna.
A belly mounted antenna (either full size or
a 'rubber duck') will perform better than
the antenna installed on the hand-held.
>Because of the original plan there wasn't any type of ground plane
>installed and adding one may be difficult.
Not a big problem. If you can get a mounting
bracket against the skin to support the antenna
that is also well connected to tubular structure,
then performance will not be appreciably enhance
with a 'proper' ground plane.
Try mounting a bulkhead mounted, BNC cable-connector
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Connectors/Coax/BNC_Bulkhead_Female.jpg
on the bracket and just move the radio mounted
rubber-duck to this location. I think you'll find
the performance to be very close to an
idealized antenna installation.
I am guessing that a antenna mounted inside the tube fuselage would be
a mute point.
Correct. Radiation through the fabric from
inside the structure is pretty lame.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: noisy tach signal |
At 02:32 AM 6/21/2009, you wrote:
>
>Thanks Bob, fortunately it appears there was a simple solution that
>will avoid troubleshooting efforts at the circuit level.....it
>appears the 720-14R hall effect sender I had installed was defective
>as I replaced it with a new one this evening and after a ground run
>and short test flight, everything seems to be working normally now.
Great! It would have been interesting to see
if a 'scope investigation would have revealed
the problem too . . . but I'm pleased to hear
that you can move on to more important things!
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: antenna mounting |
| From: | "jetech" <av8tor(at)hughes.net> |
Thanks Bob, That sounds easy enough to do.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249434#249434
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | EGT instrument test |
>Comments/Questions: Pete at Westach tells me that if I can apply a
>3.5mv current to the EGT, that it should read 1500f on the
>meter. Do you know where to get something that I can apply such an
>electric voltage. They have a chart for all the different voltages
>and resulting readings, on their web site.
3.5 mV is a bit low for 1500F . . . I think
it's more like 35.0 mV. See:
http://www.omega.com/temperature/Z/pdf/z218-220.pdf
"Applying voltage" to a thermocouple readout is
but a gross test of functionality. Significant
errors can be introduced unless the voltage
is applied with consideration for "parasitic thermocouple
junctions". See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
Assuming that you're interested in doing a
gross functionality test at 34mV, then you can
craft this little test rig.
Emacs!
A couple of easily acquired resistors from
Radio Shack and a AA battery holder.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62247
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId 62338
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2994588
wired as shown will get you a voltage in the
right ball park. If all the errors are accounted
for, your instrument will read 1504F, but if it's
off by as much as 50 degrees, I wouldn't worry
about it.
An accurate calibration test of the instrument
will require more attention to details.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 |
| From: | "JakeTheBosun" <george(at)yukonflying.com> |
Well I spent some time with the ammeter, with and without engine running. There
appeared to be no overheating. There is less than an amp at the instrument buss.
There is less than 4 amps overall at the alternator once it recovers from
start. I even tried banging on the alternator while it was running. All the
grounds and connections have been checked.
....all I am left with is the assumption that the alternator ran away....cooked
the resistors in the gauges, and they finished melting when it was producing
within limits. Also I think that the "starting" draw down is not good.
I plan to change the alternator and instruments. I wonder if anyone has suggestion
about isloating instruments during start cycle?
Thanks!
--------
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249534#249534
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning Vans Engine Gauges - Part 3 |
At 11:19 AM 6/22/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Well I spent some time with the ammeter, with and without engine
>running. There appeared to be no overheating. There is less than an
>amp at the instrument buss. There is less than 4 amps overall at
>the alternator once it recovers from start. I even tried banging on
>the alternator while it was running. All the grounds and connections
>have been checked.
>
>....all I am left with is the assumption that the alternator ran
>away....cooked the resistors in the gauges, and they finished
>melting when it was producing within limits. Also I think that the
>"starting" draw down is not good.
>
>I plan to change the alternator and instruments. I wonder if anyone
>has suggestion about isloating instruments during start cycle?
What alternator/regulator combination are you using?
Do you have any form of OV protection? Any OV
event that is even slightly hazardous to aircraft
electro-whizzies is easily managed by appropriate
protection.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wade Roe" <wroe1(at)dbtech.net> |
| Subject: | Dual mags now...one Plasma II plus later |
My plan is to fly off several hours in the RV-7 using two Slick mags
before transitioning over to a one mag and Plasma II plus system. With
this in mind, what is the best way to spec-out and set-up the ignition
switches? I am referencing Z-13/8 AEC as the basis for my design. The
Z-13 diagram shows an s700-1-3 and a s700-2-10. Perhaps a s700-2-50
would make more sense.
Thanks,
Wade Roe
EAA 557
Aeronca 7AC flying
RV-7 in process
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wade Roe" <wroe1(at)dbtech.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe Power Supply Location |
I am building an RV-7 and my Whelen strobe power supply (HDACF) has
June 09, 2009 - June 23, 2009
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-it