AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-kg

March 06, 2011 - Present



Date: Mar 06, 2011
rparigoris wrote: > Hi Howard > > I too have a LR3c on my Rotax 914 Europa that I chose to use a LED for low voltage warning. > > For starters, follow Bobs advise using this layout to prevent LED from glowing when there is high enough voltage: > http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=79802 > > Ron Parigoris Ron, Thanks for the information. I took your recommendation and switched to a simple LED in my schematic. I'll be posting my entire electrical system schematic today for forum input and review. Thanks again! Howard -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio hplevyak(at)mac.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332896#332896 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Where to hook voltage sense wire
From: "rvg8tor" <rvg8tor(at)comcast.net>
Date: Mar 06, 2011
I have just powered up my panel and I have two EFIS units that talk to each other (Dynon 180 and a 10A), I was putting the 10A on the EMS page and noticed that the voltage reported on it was 13.4 V and the voltage on the D180 (which is the box with the EMS) was showing 12.8 V. I have things powered with a power supply putting out 13.8 volts and the battery is out of the loop. I will have to run down why this is from Dynon but it got me to thinking Since there is a voltage drop when the power flows from the main bus to the E-Bus through the diode, I wonder where the best place for voltage sensing wire should be, since it will activate on a lower voltage from the main bus. Right now I have the Low Voltage light and sense wire on the same breaker on the main bus which gets the highest voltage, the D180 is on the E-bus so its power is going through the E-bus diode. I am not sure if this is why I see the voltage difference between the two displays, I kind of think not because the 10A when on the EMS page should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS. But all this begs the question is there a "Best" location for a standby alternator regulator to monitor the system voltage? Main bus or E-bus? -------- Mike "Nemo" Elliott RV-8A QB (Fuselage) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332925#332925 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire
At 01:58 PM 3/6/2011, you wrote: > >I have just powered up my panel and I have two EFIS units that talk >to each other (Dynon 180 and a 10A), I was putting the 10A on the >EMS page and noticed that the voltage reported on it was 13.4 V and >the voltage on the D180 (which is the box with the EMS) was showing >12.8 V. I have things powered with a power supply putting out 13.8 >volts and the battery is out of the loop. I will have to run down >why this is from Dynon but it got me to thinking > >Since there is a voltage drop when the power flows from the main bus >to the E-Bus through the diode, I wonder where the best place for >voltage sensing wire should be, since it will activate on a lower >voltage from the main bus. Can you disable/work-around on the low votlage warning for the device powered from the e-bus? Normally, one low voltage warning system suffices. >Right now I have the Low Voltage light and sense wire on the same >breaker on the main bus which gets the highest voltage, the D180 is >on the E-bus so its power is going through the E-bus diode. I am >not sure if this is why I see the voltage difference between the two >displays, I kind of think not because the 10A when on the EMS page >should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS. > >But all this begs the question is there a "Best" location for a >standby alternator regulator to monitor the system voltage? Main bus or E-bus? Which z-figure are you using? If Z-13/8, the rectifier/regulator gets it's voltage sense info from the system it's powering. That would be true also for any other auxiliary engine driven power source. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== < Go ahead, make my day . . . > < show me where I'm wrong. > ================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign.
From: "plevyakh" <hplevyak(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 06, 2011
Folks, I've made up my electrical system plan and sure would appreciate some fresh eyes and input. I'm an electrical sys neophyte....but trying hard to get smarter and not do anything dumb. Ive read the AEC and started with a Z10/8 architecture as my base. Heres my GlaStar mission profile: - Cross country IFR capable airplane that enables me to do over water flying down the Bahama island chain, and reach deep northern Canada backcountry strips and lakes for camping and fishing. I plan on doing some serious cross country flying. Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include: 1) How best to wire the dual Lightspeed electronic ignitions to ensure they see higher than 8.5V during engine start to minimize chance of starter kickback. I'm using a Skytec 149-12LS starter (PMG) which has the high current draw at start. Should I move both Lightspeed ignitions to a Brownout Battery Bus? 2) My batteries are also located in the tailcone due to W&B needs with about a 12ft run aft of the firewall. I estimated the starter would see about 10.3V after losses. Does this sound right? 3) How best to wire my dual Grand Rapids EFIS/AHRS and the Engine Info System (EIS 4000) to enable them to be ON during engine start. I want the EIS on to monitor engine vitals (oil pressure). For the EFIS/AHRSit can take up to two minutes to align the AHRS, and I'd prefer not to burn gas, make noise, and blow stuff around while I wait for alignment. Id like everything ready, checklist complete up to the point of "ignition", then start up, and taxi away. Im considering moving the 2nd EFIS/AHRS to the Endurance bus as well, or a Brownout Battery Bus. 4) Overall does the wiring schematic make sense? What mistakes did I make? Can it be simplified? I've attached two versions of the architecture. One is printable (4 pages) to read, and the other screen viewable. Ive also attached my electrical bus load analysis. Thanks in advance for any inputs! Howard -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio hplevyak(at)mac.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332972#332972 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/glastar_electrical_load_analysis_6mar2011_108.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/printable_glastar_schematic_v0_6mar2011_for_review_689.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/glastar_schematic_v0_6mar2011_for_review_172.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless drill.
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Mar 06, 2011
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=87399 Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless drill. I have been working on outfitting trailers for a solar charging station trailer project that has the trailers scattered apart by at least a few hundred feet. It is far easier to carry around a 12 pound line cord than it is to try and run a few hundred feet of extension cord or move a ton and a half trailer to were the power is. This model Dewalt cordless drill comes with NiCad batteries that are somewhere around 2000 to 2200 mAs and 12 volts. We purchased a NiMh aftermarket replacement that comes in at 3000 mAs. It's a pain running back and forth to a charger with now only two battery packs. It's true that three packs that are now retired were not new, hard use didn't do them any good. Anyway we grabbed some fairly flexable well insulated round wire and tied the hot, neutral and ground together and used one each to the posative and negative of a ~ 5,000 to 8,000 mA (realistic output under drill load pulled down to 12.1 volts (approx 50%)) lead acid battery, using the carcus of one of the dead packs to get power to the drill. FYI, this Harbor Freight jump start pack has the battery marked at 17aH, but with a 330 mA load, it nets out at only 12,000 mAs (12aH). Bottom line is it works a treat! Thus far a full day of use has not run battery down. To tweak performance just a little, thicker wire could be used. Yellow pack to the left of drill is NiCad pack. Black pack below the NiCad pack is aftermarket NiMh pack. Ron Parigoris Y11-03-06 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332974#332974 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Non-passive failure, Fuse link allegator clip
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Mar 06, 2011
Video: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=87396 Double click picture to play Working on the Solar powered trailer charging station project, we discovered a situation that needed to be addressed. Each trailer services forty 17aH lead acid batteries. Each battery pack has a low voltage cutoff that cuts power to the load when the battery reaches 12.1 volts. The problem we discovered is since the charger charges through the low voltage cutoff, if the battery were to sit and fall below 12.1 volts you would not be able to charge the battery. We needed a stupid, simple, cheap, water and dirt resistant of bypassing the low voltage cutoff to charge a battery that gets below 12.1 volts. The answer we selected is cheap 12 " long alligator clip from Hosfelt electronics (think 27 gage wire) soldered to a leftover piece of ~ 18 gage wire that already has a ring terminal on it. Resolution is the alligator clip is located in a easy enough to access location where it can be clipped to a PIDG terminal to bypass low voltage. Since it is connected direct to the hot side of the battery its a good idea to give it some protection. Hence fuse link alligator clip. Many hundreds needed on first run. Funny thing, after we tested the Fuse link alligator clip and burned it out, it somehow ended up on the bench. I needed a short alligator clip a few days later and picked it up figuring it was the good half of the one I cut in half for the test. Ha ha ha, strip, strip, strip, no copper to be found anywhere! Ron Parigoris Y11-03-06 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332982#332982 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign. >Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include: > >1) How best to wire the dual Lightspeed >electronic ignitions to ensure they see higher >than 8.5V during engine start to minimize chance of starter kickback. Turn the ignition switches on after you hit the starter button. The 'brownout' lasts but 100 milliseconds or so. Is the 8.5v number from Lightspeed? I believe the ignition systems run at well under 8.5 volts. ??? Don't understand Ign #1 sparking cylinders 1&2 and #2 ignition sparking 3&4 ?????? >I'm using a Skytec 149-12LS starter (PMG) which >has the high current draw at start. Should I >move both Lightspeed ignitions to a Brownout Battery Bus? No. I'd put one on a battery bus, the other on the e-bus. If you were sparking all 4 cylinders with EACH ignition system, then alternator-out ops would call for turning one ignition OFF> >2) My batteries are also located in the tailcone >due to W&B needs with about a 12ft run aft of >the firewall. I estimated the starter would see >about 10.3V after losses. Does this sound right? That's fine. >3) How best to wire my dual Grand Rapids >EFIS/AHRS and the Engine Info System (EIS 4000) >to enable them to be ON during engine start. I >want the EIS on to monitor engine vitals (oil >pressure). For the EFIS/AHRSit can take up >to two minutes to align the AHRS, and I'd prefer >not to burn gas, make noise, and blow stuff around while I wait for alignment. At engine idle? Don't you let things warm up a bit before you drive off? I think there are plenty of things on a well crafted check-list to soak up 2 minutes wile the AHRS gets up on its feet. If you're charging off into the deep woods with this airplane, battery maintenance is VERY high on the list. I think I'd rather have a better payload and one battery that's changed out often than two batteries that need extra-ordinary attention. > Id like everything ready, checklist > complete up to the point of "ignition", then > start up, and taxi away. Im considering > moving the 2nd EFIS/AHRS to the Endurance bus > as well, or a Brownout Battery Bus. Simpler is ALWAYS better if you can configure an operating procedure that accommodates the special needs for some accessories. >4) Overall does the wiring schematic make >sense? What mistakes did I make? Can it be simplified? Yes . . . none that I can see beyond questions cited above . . . and yes. >I've attached two versions of the >architecture. One is printable (4 pages) to >read, and the other screen viewable. Ive >also attached my electrical bus load analysis. Nice job Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2011
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign.
From: "Jeff B." <loboflyer(at)gmail.com>
This is a good time to introduce myself to the list. I'm doing almost this same configuration to an RV-6A -- with batteries up front, of course. It was bought flying a few years ago by my father-in-law so he isn't the builder. He wants to replace the steam gauges and mags and move to an all electric airplane. It will have dual GRT (one HX, one HS) screens, and EIS 4000, and dual LSE Plasma III ignitions. I'm just the electrical designer since it is his plane, though since they now live closer to me, maybe I wil l get to fly it occasionally! Mission: Day/Night VFR, future path to IFR when pilots get rated and plane gets the right GPS. Our plan was to use something like Z13/8 with a small SLA (alarm system type, 4 ~ 5AH) battery as an AUX battery, diode connected to the main battery bus. (Incidentally, I see in Z10, Z30, and Z35 no diode on the AUX battery line -- why is it not needed? On Z10 I see that it powers the whol e E-bus, but not on Z30 & Z35.) This aux battery would only support one LSE ignition ("primary -- #1") and the GRT system during cranking. I hadn't even thought about kickback -- this was originally for brownout on the GRTs. If it is a demonstrable and catastrophic failure mode, why is it still allowed to exist? In my simplified view of things, I think the fix would look like this: if input voltage too low, then no spark trigger allowed. For ignition controls, my FIL wants to use toggle switches with #1 having momentary starter engagement at full up position, rather than a separate starter button. Other questions for the list: Does the inclusion of the limited mission, small aux battery justify its weight? What would be a simpler configuratio n with similar benefits? -Jeff- Albuquerque, NM On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 8:35 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> > > > Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include: >> >> 1) How best to wire the dual Lightspeed electronic ignitions to ensure >> they see higher than 8.5V during engine start to minimize chance of star ter >> kickback. >> > > Turn the ignition switches on after you hit the > starter button. The 'brownout' lasts but 100 milliseconds > or so. Is the 8.5v number from Lightspeed? I believe the > ignition systems run at well under 8.5 volts. > > ??? Don't understand Ign #1 sparking cylinders 1&2 and #2 > ignition sparking 3&4 ?????? > > > I'm using a Skytec 149-12LS starter (PMG) which has the high current dra w >> at start. Should I move both Lightspeed ignitions to a Brownout Batter y >> Bus? >> > > No. I'd put one on a battery bus, the other on the > e-bus. If you were sparking all 4 cylinders with > EACH ignition system, then alternator-out ops would > call for turning one ignition OFF> > > > 2) My batteries are also located in the tailcone due to W&B needs with >> about a 12ft run aft of the firewall. I estimated the starter would see >> about 10.3V after losses. Does this sound right? >> > > That's fine. > > > 3) How best to wire my dual Grand Rapids EFIS/AHRS and the Engine Info >> System (EIS 4000) to enable them to be ON during engine start. I want the >> EIS on to monitor engine vitals (oil pressure). For the EFIS/AHRS=85it can >> take up to two minutes to align the AHRS, and I'd prefer not to burn gas , >> make noise, and blow stuff around while I wait for alignment. >> > > At engine idle? Don't you let things warm up a bit > before you drive off? I think there are plenty of > things on a well crafted check-list to soak up > 2 minutes wile the AHRS gets up on its feet. > > If you're charging off into the deep woods with this > airplane, battery maintenance is VERY high on the > list. I think I'd rather have a better payload and > one battery that's changed out often than two > batteries that need extra-ordinary attention. > > > I=92d like everything ready, checklist complete up to the point of >> "ignition", then start up, and taxi away. I=92m considering moving the 2nd >> EFIS/AHRS to the Endurance bus as well, or a Brownout Battery Bus. >> > > Simpler is ALWAYS better if you can configure an > operating procedure that accommodates the special > needs for some accessories. > > > 4) Overall does the wiring schematic make sense? What mistakes did I >> make? Can it be simplified? >> > > Yes . . . none that I can see beyond questions cited above . . . and > yes. > > > I've attached two versions of the architecture. One is printable (4 >> pages) to read, and the other screen viewable. I=92ve also attached my >> electrical bus load analysis. >> > > Nice job > > > Bob . . . > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com>
Subject: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign.
Date: Mar 06, 2011
It might be worth while to try PMAGS and get the GRTs with internal backup batteries. This eliminates all of your concerns. I run a similar system except I have AFS instead of GRT. From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff B. Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 9:25 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed ign. This is a good time to introduce myself to the list. I'm doing almost this same configuration to an RV-6A -- with batteries up front, of course. It was bought flying a few years ago by my father-in-law so he isn't the builder. He wants to replace the steam gauges and mags and move to an all electric airplane. It will have dual GRT (one HX, one HS) screens, and EIS 4000, and dual LSE Plasma III ignitions. I'm just the electrical designer since it is his plane, though since they now live closer to me, maybe I will get to fly it occasionally! Mission: Day/Night VFR, future path to IFR when pilots get rated and plane gets the right GPS. Our plan was to use something like Z13/8 with a small SLA (alarm system type, 4 ~ 5AH) battery as an AUX battery, diode connected to the main battery bus. (Incidentally, I see in Z10, Z30, and Z35 no diode on the AUX battery line -- why is it not needed? On Z10 I see that it powers the whole E-bus, but not on Z30 & Z35.) This aux battery would only support one LSE ignition ("primary -- #1") and the GRT system during cranking. I hadn't even thought about kickback -- this was originally for brownout on the GRTs. If it is a demonstrable and catastrophic failure mode, why is it still allowed to exist? In my simplified view of things, I think the fix would look like this: if input voltage too low, then no spark trigger allowed. For ignition controls, my FIL wants to use toggle switches with #1 having momentary starter engagement at full up position, rather than a separate starter button. Other questions for the list: Does the inclusion of the limited mission, small aux battery justify its weight? What would be a simpler configuration with similar benefits? -Jeff- Albuquerque, NM On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 8:35 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include: 1) How best to wire the dual Lightspeed electronic ignitions to ensure they see higher than 8.5V during engine start to minimize chance of starter kickback. Turn the ignition switches on after you hit the starter button. The 'brownout' lasts but 100 milliseconds or so. Is the 8.5v number from Lightspeed? I believe the ignition systems run at well under 8.5 volts. ??? Don't understand Ign #1 sparking cylinders 1&2 and #2 ignition sparking 3&4 ?????? I'm using a Skytec 149-12LS starter (PMG) which has the high current draw at start. Should I move both Lightspeed ignitions to a Brownout Battery Bus? No. I'd put one on a battery bus, the other on the e-bus. If you were sparking all 4 cylinders with EACH ignition system, then alternator-out ops would call for turning one ignition OFF> 2) My batteries are also located in the tailcone due to W&B needs with about a 12ft run aft of the firewall. I estimated the starter would see about 10.3V after losses. Does this sound right? That's fine. 3) How best to wire my dual Grand Rapids EFIS/AHRS and the Engine Info System (EIS 4000) to enable them to be ON during engine start. I want the EIS on to monitor engine vitals (oil pressure). For the EFIS/AHRS.it can take up to two minutes to align the AHRS, and I'd prefer not to burn gas, make noise, and blow stuff around while I wait for alignment. At engine idle? Don't you let things warm up a bit before you drive off? I think there are plenty of things on a well crafted check-list to soak up 2 minutes wile the AHRS gets up on its feet. If you're charging off into the deep woods with this airplane, battery maintenance is VERY high on the list. I think I'd rather have a better payload and one battery that's changed out often than two batteries that need extra-ordinary attention. I'd like everything ready, checklist complete up to the point of "ignition", then start up, and taxi away. I'm considering moving the 2nd EFIS/AHRS to the Endurance bus as well, or a Brownout Battery Bus. Simpler is ALWAYS better if you can configure an operating procedure that accommodates the special needs for some accessories. 4) Overall does the wiring schematic make sense? What mistakes did I make? Can it be simplified? Yes . . . none that I can see beyond questions cited above . . . and yes. I've attached two versions of the architecture. One is printable (4 pages) to read, and the other screen viewable. I've also attached my electrical bus load analysis. Nice job Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign.
Date: Mar 07, 2011
Hi Howard I like very much your load analysis, and your electric schematic as well, and I will probably use it in a future project, or in refurbishing my current aircraft, which has an electric dependant engine. Our guru (=98lectric Bob) already answered your questions, and I have not enough knowledge to answer your questions 1 to 3 or comment on his answers. I will just comment on some details of your architecture, and make some questions in order to learn something else. a) In the SD-8 circuit, you have put a =9CLow Volts Aux Alt=9D LED light that seems it will be permanently On, since it is directly connected to the (+) terminal of the Main Battery through the NC terminal of the Aux Alt S704-1 relay. Is that wrong on your schematic, or am I wrong? b) Why did you connect the Fuel Primer pump to your =9Calways hot=9D Main Battery Bus? c) In this =9Calways hot=9D Main Battery Bus, you have a connection (lower left) called =9CEndurance Bus=9D, which is not connected to the Endurance Bus, but rather to the COM terminal of the S704-1 =9CBrownout Battery Relay, which is connected to the (+) terminal of the Aux Battery, except when you push the Start button . Would you please explain this connection and this relay function? Regards Carlos > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of plevyakh > Sent: segunda-feira, 7 de Mar=C3=A7o de 2011 0:44 > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed > ign. > > > Folks, > I've made up my electrical system plan and sure would appreciate some fresh eyes > and input. > > 4) Overall does the wiring schematic make sense? What mistakes did I make? > Can it be simplified? > > I've attached two versions of the architecture. One is printable (4 pages) to read, > and the other screen viewable. I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ve also attached my electrical bus load > analysis. > > Thanks in advance for any inputs! > Howard > > -------- > Howard Plevyak > GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio > hplevyak(at)mac.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless drill.
Date: Mar 07, 2011
My 9.8 volt drill battery lasted only a month or so when new. It would have cost twice the drill price just to get a replacement battery. So, I've been running the 9.8 volt drill from a 12.8 volt PC-680 for a couple of years. Works great. Charlie Brame RV6A N11CB San Antonio ---------------------------------------------------------- > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless > drill. > From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> > > > http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=87399 > > Adding a 12 pound cord to a 12V cordless drill. > I have been working on outfitting trailers for a solar charging > station trailer > project that has the trailers scattered apart by at least a few > hundred feet. > It is far easier to carry around a 12 pound line cord than it is to > try and run > a few hundred feet of extension cord or move a ton and a half > trailer to were > the power is. > This model Dewalt cordless drill comes with NiCad batteries that are > somewhere > around 2000 to 2200 mAs and 12 volts. > We purchased a NiMh aftermarket replacement that comes in at 3000 > mAs. It's a pain > running back and forth to a charger with now only two battery packs. > It's > true that three packs that are now retired were not new, hard use > didn't do them > any good. > Anyway we grabbed some fairly flexable well insulated round wire and > tied the hot, > neutral and ground together and used one each to the posative and > negative > of a ~ 5,000 to 8,000 mA (realistic output under drill load pulled > down to 12.1 > volts (approx 50%)) lead acid battery, using the carcus of one of > the dead > packs to get power to the drill. FYI, this Harbor Freight jump start > pack has > the battery marked at 17aH, but with a 330 mA load, it nets out at > only 12,000 > mAs (12aH). > Bottom line is it works a treat! Thus far a full day of use has not > run battery > down. > To tweak performance just a little, thicker wire could be used. > Yellow pack to the left of drill is NiCad pack. > Black pack below the NiCad pack is aftermarket NiMh pack. > Ron Parigoris > Y11-03-06 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332974#332974 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire
From: "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com>
Date: Mar 07, 2011
> the 10A when on the EMS page should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS True if both are powered from the same bus. But if one EMS gets its power through a diode and the other does not, then they will show different voltages. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333052#333052 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire
From: "rvg8tor" <rvg8tor(at)comcast.net>
Date: Mar 07, 2011
You are correct, my grounds are good but there is a difference in voltage due to the diode the power goes through to get to the E-Bus. I was surprised to see the difference in that the D10A is and EFIS only unit not and EMS, but through the Dynon DSAB network you can display different items on the D10A screen to include engine instruments. My surprise was I thought showing this data should just be a repeat of the main EMS information. My real question here is given that there is a voltage difference between the main bus and the E-bus by about .6 volts which bus would be the best place to have the standby alternator monitor bus voltage. The standby regulator is set to a lower voltage so if the main alternator is operating fine the standby just stays idle, when the bus it monitors falls below the set point in the standby regulator then it wakes up and starts to provide power. user9253 wrote: > > > the 10A when on the EMS page should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS > > True if both are powered from the same bus. But if one EMS gets its power through a diode and the other does not, then they will show different voltages. > Joe -------- Mike "Nemo" Elliott RV-8A QB (Fuselage) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333054#333054 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire
From: "rvg8tor" <rvg8tor(at)comcast.net>
Date: Mar 07, 2011
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > At 01:58 PM 3/6/2011, you wrote: > > > > > > > I have just powered up my panel and I have two EFIS units that talk > > to each other (Dynon 180 and a 10A), I was putting the 10A on the > > EMS page and noticed that the voltage reported on it was 13.4 V and > > the voltage on the D180 (which is the box with the EMS) was showing > > 12.8 V. I have things powered with a power supply putting out 13.8 > > volts and the battery is out of the loop. I will have to run down > > why this is from Dynon but it got me to thinking > > > > Since there is a voltage drop when the power flows from the main bus > > to the E-Bus through the diode, I wonder where the best place for > > voltage sensing wire should be, since it will activate on a lower > > voltage from the main bus. > > > > > > Can you disable/work-around on the low votlage warning > for the device powered from the e-bus? Normally, one > low voltage warning system suffices. > > Not sure what you meant here but my primary low voltage warning will be the EFIS alarm, since it monitors voltage. > > > > Right now I have the Low Voltage light and sense wire on the same > > breaker on the main bus which gets the highest voltage, the D180 is > > on the E-bus so its power is going through the E-bus diode. I am > > not sure if this is why I see the voltage difference between the two > > displays, I kind of think not because the 10A when on the EMS page > > should just be repeating what is on the D180 EMS. > > > > But all this begs the question is there a "Best" location for a > > standby alternator regulator to monitor the system voltage? Main bus or E-bus? > > > > > > Which z-figure are you using? If Z-13/8, the > rectifier/regulator gets it's voltage sense > info from the system it's powering. That > would be true also for any other auxiliary > engine driven power source. > > > Bob . . . > //// > (o o) > ===========o00o=(_)=o00o======== > > < show me where I'm wrong. > > ================================ My system is Z12 so the standby alternator attaches at the start contactor and then uses the same main bus feed wire. I have the alternate feed switching for the hot battery bus to the E-bus as a way to isolate the E-bus if I get to a battery only situation. Since the standby regulator needs to monitor bus voltage I have it set up to monitor the main bus. As you can see the low voltage alarm off the EFIS will be different from what the standby regulator reads due to the drop in the diode. I think I can work around the issue in that the EFIS #2 attached to the main bus has it's own alarms and I can set that to my specifications. -------- Mike "Nemo" Elliott RV-8A QB (Fuselage) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333055#333055 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign.
From: "plevyakh" <hplevyak(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 07, 2011
"Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include: 1) How best to wire the dual Lightspeed electronic ignitions to ensure they see higher than 8.5V during engine start to minimize chance of starter kickback." > Bob Answer: Turn the ignition switches on after you hit the starter button. The 'brownout' lasts but 100 milliseconds or so. Is the 8.5v number from Lightspeed? I believe the ignition systems run at well under 8.5 volts. > > ??? Don't understand Ign #1 sparking cylinders 1&2 and #2 ignition sparking 3&4 ?????? I'd prefer a more elegant solution to what you suggest Bob. I know that's a simpler one....but with my spouse flying or others down the road....I'm sure that "ops manual bold face procedure" would get missed. The Ign #1 sparking cylinders 1&2 and #2 ignition sparking #3 & 4 cylinders is a type O mistake in my schematic. I have updated it to "LSE CD Ignition Box #1, and LSE CD Ignition Box #2". Per the LSE Install manual: "Dual systems can be connected to each other such that each system knows if the other one is operating. If one of the two systems is turned off or has failed, the remaining system will automatically shift its timing curve to provide optimum engine performance with one system. This eliminates the common power loss when one magneto is turned off. The extremely wide operating voltage range, from 5v-35v allows hand starting long after the electric starter has stopped due to a low battery." You are correct on the Lightspeed operating voltages. Service Bulletin PL-2 dated 6/26/2006 state that the "minimum supply voltage for starting is 6.5 volts, and minimum operating voltage is 5.5 volts" See URL here the Lightspeed Service bulletins: http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/News/ServiceBulletins.htm Service Bulletin PL-1B addresses "Misfire during Start and Kickbacks"... This SB states that "unmodified systems shipped before 12/04 can misfire if the supply voltage drops below 8.5V repeated during cranking. This can only occur if the starter draws excessive current and the battery is not sized for that current requirement. .... Toggle switch operated systems have no tendency to misfire, (the issue was triggered by the rapid "on" / "off" "on" sequence of the key switch motion)." I have U3+ versions of the Plasma Ignition boxes and I'm using TOGGLE switches. So I think my boxes are good to 6.5V min. for starting. I have an email to Klaus Savier at LSE to confirm this. So if my starter sees ~10V, and my LSE Ignition box timing firing is good down to a starting voltage of 6.5V....should I NOT worry about a potential for misfire? I'm thinking of that cold day scenario where it might be tough to get the engine started. What I'm not clear on is what happens if main battery circuit or the brownout battery circuit drops down below the minimum starting voltage? With a good battery maint. program, the probability is very low of an issue, but I'd still like to know how would the dual LSE Ignition systems respond? I'm hoping that with the Dual system interconnect, the box on the circuit with voltage greater than min. starting voltage would still keep the timing in order and no issues with starting. I know this is a question for Klaus at LSE, but wondering if anyone with dual LSE ignitions can shed some light? ==== "I'm using a Skytec 149-12LS starter (PMG) which has the high current draw at start. Should I move both Lightspeed ignitions to a Brownout Battery Bus?" > Bob Answer: No. I'd put one on a battery bus, the other on the e-bus. If you were sparking all 4 cylinders with EACH ignition system, then alternator-out ops would call for turning one ignition OFF> Agreed. Each Ignition box sparkles all 4 cyl. So if main alternator is out, then I think my ops procedure would be: 1) MAIN L-60 ALTERNATOR FIELD CIRCUIT BREAKER - PULL 2) DC POWER MASTER SWITCH - OFF - drops off main battery contactor (1amp) and main bus...saving amps 3) AUX SD-8 ALTERNATOR SWITCH - ON - brings online SD-8 yielding 5.4 to 7.0 amps with 2150 prop RPM 4) EBUS ALTERNATE FEED SWITCH - ON - provides power to endurance bus 5) LIGHTSPEED IGNITION #1 SWITCH - OFF - to save 1.3amps from main battery drain ------------------------------------------------------- LSE has a recommended Dual Power Supply wiring schematic. I've attached below, and link is also here. http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/Manuals/PS_Diagram.htm Should I just simplify my dual batt brownout schematic and just use a single Shottky diode between the two as shown in LSE's schematic? "3) How best to wire my dual Grand Rapids EFIS/AHRS and the Engine Info System (EIS 4000) to enable them to be ON during engine start. I want the EIS on to monitor engine vitals (oil pressure). For the EFIS/AHRSit can take up to two minutes to align the AHRS, and I'd prefer not to burn gas, make noise, and blow stuff around while I wait for alignment." > Bob Answer: At engine idle? Don't you let things warm up a bit before you drive off? I think there are plenty of things on a well crafted check-list to soak up 2 minutes while the AHRS gets up on its feet. > > If you're charging off into the deep woods with this airplane, battery maintenance is VERY high on the list. I think I'd rather have a better payload and one battery that's changed out often than two batteries that need extra-ordinary attention. "Id like everything ready, checklist complete up to the point of "ignition", then start up, and taxi away. Im considering moving the 2nd EFIS/AHRS to the Endurance bus as well, or a Brownout Battery Bus." > Bob Answer: Simpler is ALWAYS better if you can configure an operating procedure that accommodates the special needs for some accessories. I prefer to find out issues with my EFIS/EIS system before engine start. In addition, Grand Rapids Tech. in their installation manual pg. 6-1, recommends in section 6.2 Power Connections: "It is desirable to not have the display units and AHRS connected to the power supply supplying power to the engine starter during the engine start (to maximize current available for the starter, and possibly extend the life of the CCFL backlight in the display unit), this feature allows the fitting of a small (3-5AH) auxiliary battery to one of the power input connections provide power to the EFIS during engine start." I could size the AUX/Brownout battery 17AH (15.3 lbs) down to a 5AH (5.9 lbs), but I do like the idea of two batteries the same size and swapping out one each year for a new one. An Aux. PC680 also gives me approx. 2.6hrs at an endurance bus load of 4.6 amps. "4) Overall does the wiring schematic make sense? What mistakes did I make? Can it be simplified?" > Bob Answer: Yes . . . none that I can see beyond questions cited above . . . and yes. > > Bob . . . Lastly, I wanted to add...You and the AEC forum are just an INCREDIBLE resource! THANK-YOU for writing the AEC book and providing a place for us electrical challenged guys to bang heads and build better airplanes! -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio hplevyak(at)mac.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333058#333058 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/glastar_schematic_v0c1_7mar2011_for_review_653.gif http://forums.matronics.com//files/dual_power_supply_diagram_358.gif ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 07, 2011
From: Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com>
Subject: For Sale on Barnstormers
I'm finally getting around to putting some unused Long EZ parts up for sale on Barnstormers. This morning I listed an unused Ken Brock carburetor heat valve (I'll be using a ram air box which includes the heat valve) and the entire Brock manual nose gear retractor. Includes new gears, spring strut, strut bracket, crank, bushing and rod. The gear retractor was installed, but has never been flown. I've replaced it with an electric gear retractor, so the entire system is for sale, not including the NG14 spacer rods and the NG4 bracket...both of which are used on my new system. NG14 is just an aluminum rod and NG4 is sheet steel. Both are easily fabricated and included in the included plans. The gears are like new, but will need to be lubed before use. If interested (or just want to look) Just go to the Barnstormer's search box ( www.barnstormers.com/cat.php?mode=search) and type in "Brock". There are currently only four ads there...the above items are the first two (obviously ). They are priced well below their current ACS prices. Harley Dixon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 07, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual
Lightspeed ign. At 11:26 AM 3/7/2011, you wrote: > >"Some challenges I'm still scratching my head over include: > > >I'd prefer a more elegant solution to what you suggest Bob. I know >that's a simpler one....but with my spouse flying or others down the >road....I'm sure that "ops manual bold face procedure" would get missed. >Per the LSE Install manual: "Dual systems can be connected to each >other such that each system knows if the other one is operating. If >one of the two systems is turned off or has failed, the remaining >system will automatically shift its timing curve to provide optimum >engine performance with one system. This eliminates the common >power loss when one magneto is turned off. The extremely wide >operating voltage range, from 5v-35v allows hand starting long after >the electric starter has stopped due to a low battery. >You are correct on the Lightspeed operating voltages. Service >Bulletin PL-2 dated 6/26/2006 state that the "minimum supply voltage >for starting is 6.5 volts, and minimum operating voltage is 5.5 volts" >See URL here the Lightspeed Service bulletins: >http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/News/ServiceBulletins.htm > >Service Bulletin PL-1B addresses "Misfire during Start and >Kickbacks"... This SB states that "unmodified systems shipped before >12/04 can misfire if the supply voltage drops below 8.5V repeated >during cranking. This can only occur if the starter draws excessive >current and the battery is not sized for that current requirement. Which obviously will not be a condition on your airplane . . . > .... Toggle switch operated systems have no tendency to misfire, > (the issue was triggered by the rapid "on" / "off" "on" sequence of > the key switch motion)." > >I have U3+ versions of the Plasma Ignition boxes and I'm using >TOGGLE switches. So I think my boxes are good to 6.5V min. for >starting. I have an email to Klaus Savier at LSE to confirm this. Okay, a solution from Klaus's perspective would be a software fix in his product so that sparking cannot commence until the after two crank triggers are sensed . . . or just a timing sequence that holds the system quiet until a few hundred milliseconds after starter initiation. But yes, I think you're worrying about something that doesn't happen except in the most abusive of battery conditions. The TC aircraft guys do lots of mystifying things with their airplanes. I'm hoping that folks who hang out here on the List will give their battery choices AND maintenance and educated degree of respect. >So if my starter sees ~10V, and my LSE Ignition box timing firing is >good down to a starting voltage of 6.5V....should I NOT worry about >a potential for misfire? How does your ignition system voltage get to be anything less than what the starter sees? The brownout occurs during motor inrush . . . zero-rpm at start=up means the starter draws stall current. Maybe over 1000A with a good battery and stiff wiring. Here's a plot I took off a GMC Safari with a wound field starter and an RG battery http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/95_GMC_Safari_1.gif Here's one I got off a Saturn with smaller engine, PM starter and wet battery http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/99_Saturn_SL1.jpg Here's another Saturn shot at higher resolution in time http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Curves/99_Saturn_SL1_2.gif Note that cranking current goes nowhere but down and after 250 mS the battery V is up over 10V. Airplane engines crank similarly. >I'm thinking of that cold day scenario where it might be tough to >get the engine started. The concern is not for extended cranking but for the initial effects of accelerating a very low resistance PM motor. >What I'm not clear on is what happens if main battery circuit or the >brownout battery circuit drops down below the minimum starting voltage? ?? not sure about the point of the question. The purpose of the brownout protection battery is to insure this doesn't happen. Any time the voltage drops below the manufacturer's specified minimums, operating performance is not guaranteed. This doesn't necessarily mean you should EXPECT any particular symptom . . . unless those symptoms are also called out by the manufacturer. My general sense is that piling two batteries into your airplane will have a negative effect on payloads while adding no measurable or demonstrable benefits. >With a good battery maint. program, the probability is very low of >an issue, but I'd still like to know how would the dual LSE Ignition >systems respond? > >I'm hoping that with the Dual system interconnect, the box on the >circuit with voltage greater than min. starting voltage would still >keep the timing in order and no issues with starting. I know this >is a question for Klaus at LSE, but wondering if anyone with dual >LSE ignitions can shed some light? That 'timing' issue is for RUNNING operations only and is a very small issue at that. ALL starting ops are after top dead center irrespective of how many ignitions are running. And as I mentioned before, alternator out ops should call for shutting one system off . . . even if it did result in a slight reduction of power. Your PLAN-B needs to acknowledge that a significant failure has occurred and subsequent operations are designed for minimizing risk to a happy ending of the flight . . . not keeping all the electro-whizzies running. >Agreed. Each Ignition box sparkles all 4 cyl. So if main >alternator is out, then I think my ops procedure would be: > >1) MAIN L-60 ALTERNATOR FIELD CIRCUIT BREAKER - PULL No necessary. Circuit breakers are for protecting wires, not switching equipment. >2) DC POWER MASTER SWITCH - OFF > - drops off main battery contactor (1amp) and main bus...saving amps And shuts off the main alternator. >3) AUX SD-8 ALTERNATOR SWITCH - ON > - brings online SD-8 yielding 5.4 to 7.0 amps with 2150 prop RPM > >4) EBUS ALTERNATE FEED SWITCH - ON > - provides power to endurance bus DO THIS FIRST >5) LIGHTSPEED IGNITION #1 SWITCH - OFF > - to save 1.3amps from main battery drain Yup. >------------------------------------------------------- > >LSE has a recommended Dual Power Supply wiring schematic. I've >attached below, and link is also here. >http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/Manuals/PS_Diagram.htm > >Should I just simplify my dual batt brownout schematic and just use >a single Shottky diode between the two as shown in LSE's schematic? No. One ignition from the main battery bus, the other from the endurance bus. Each to have it's own breaker and one system to enjoy dual power sources no matter what. You don't need the second battery/diode combo. If you're not putting in Z-13/8, THEN you use the dual batteries/diode configuration. > > Bob Answer: Simpler is ALWAYS better if you can configure an > operating procedure that accommodates the special needs for some accessories. > > >I prefer to find out issues with my EFIS/EIS system before engine >start. In addition, Grand Rapids Tech. in their installation manual >pg. 6-1, recommends in section 6.2 Power Connections: > >"It is desirable to not have the display units and AHRS connected to >the power supply supplying power to the engine starter during the >engine start (to maximize current available for the starter, This is B.S. Minor system loads are never an issue for getting the engine started in an airplane with a well maintained battery . . . i.e. one that's traded out at intervals or when test limits are not met. > and possibly extend the life of the CCFL backlight in the display > unit), this feature allows the fitting of a small (3-5AH) auxiliary > battery to one of the power input connections provide power to the > EFIS during engine start." Hmmm . . . "possibly" . . . suggests these folks may not understand their product. Either they have explored the suitability of their device to join the ranks of other products designed for the aircraft environment . . . or they have not. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Philosophy/Whats_all_this_DO160_Stuff_Anyhow.pdf If they have not, it would be better that they at least tell the customer in what ways they chose to reduce development costs. I'm not suggesting that low-cost offerings are necessarily a poor value . . . but they should KNOW exactly what things are at risk and why. Is their installation/operation data published on the 'net anywere? >I could size the AUX/Brownout battery 17AH (15.3 lbs) down to a 5AH >(5.9 lbs), but I do like the idea of two batteries the same size and >swapping out one each year for a new one. An Aux. PC680 also gives >me approx. 2.6hrs at an endurance bus load of 4.6 amps. Does this include support energy from the SD-8? Once you add the SD-8, battery sizing for endurance shouldn't be an issue. >Lastly, I wanted to add...You and the AEC forum are just an >INCREDIBLE resource! THANK-YOU for writing the AEC book and >providing a place for us electrical challenged guys to bang heads >and build better airplanes! Folks on the List are as much a resource for me as I am for them. I could write another book on the number of products that never came into being purely for reasons of regulatory, management or marketing boondoggles. That sort of thing wasn't happening in the heydays of Walter, Duane and Willy. That's how I got to put a speed regulated trim system on the 55 Lears . . . which was so popular that it got retrofitted to the fleet of 30 series airplanes and made my boss a few $millions$. I've chased much slicker products through the rat-maze since but none have been so satisfying . . . so I guess I could say my career 'peaked' when I was 37. Not that it hasn't been educational and fun. YOU folks are my reason for thinking hard these days . . . you're saving me from Alzheimer's. So THANK YOU too! Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 07, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Where to hook voltage sense wire
> >My system is Z12 so the standby alternator attaches at the start >contactor and then uses the same main bus feed wire. I have the >alternate feed switching for the hot battery bus to the E-bus as a >way to isolate the E-bus if I get to a battery only situation. >Since the standby regulator needs to monitor bus voltage I have it >set up to monitor the main bus. Right. > As you can see the low voltage alarm off the EFIS will be > different from what the standby regulator reads due to the drop in > the diode. I think I can work around the issue in that the EFIS #2 > attached to the main bus has it's own alarms and I can set that to > my specifications. If the alarm for the e-bus instruments can be calibrated, then set them for 10.5 volts. That's the voltage your battery is 95% used up. Gizmos with LV warning attached to the main bus get set for 13.5. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2011
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Bistable relay control
I'm thinking of making a monostable relay type control for bistable relays (if and when) in one or more (or none) of the following shapes: - 2 square inches of pcb - mounted in a DSub DE-9 backshell - integrated with a Tyco BDS-A contactor plug Components will be SMD's. Attached two contemplated variations. Any and all comments welcome. Jan de Jong ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2011
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Low power and weight exercise
I concocted a design for a very light weight and very low control power Rotax 914 electrical system. It features LiFePO4 batteries, bistable relays with monostable control and solid state load switches. See attached page if you will. Thoughts welcome. Jan de Jong ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Bistable relay control
Date: Mar 08, 2011
Jan, I'm assuming that you are referring to the Tyco latching relays that were discussed here a few weeks ago. That looks like a lot of (pretty cool) engineering, but is it really necessary? I'm thinking that a SPDT (on)- off - (on) toggle switch is all that is really req'd to control the Tyco latching relay. Am I missing something? -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan de Jong Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 09:25 Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bistable relay control I'm thinking of making a monostable relay type control for bistable relays (if and when) in one or more (or none) of the following shapes: - 2 square inches of pcb - mounted in a DSub DE-9 backshell - integrated with a Tyco BDS-A contactor plug Components will be SMD's. Attached two contemplated variations. Any and all comments welcome. Jan de Jong ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2011
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: Bistable relay control
Jeff, You are absolutely right. It is only when one wants to do more than switch one latching relay on and off that it is useful for latching relays to behave like monostable relays. Say there are several latching relays in a system: 1. Progressive power down may be needed so that a relay has power for switching off (can also be in a checklist) 2. It may be nice to have a handle position reflect a relay state (can also be provided with an indicator led) 3. The system requires automation - automation has open/close outputs and cannot be expected to provide pulses. Jan de Jong Jeff Luckey wrote: > > Jan, > > I'm assuming that you are referring to the Tyco latching relays that were > discussed here a few weeks ago. > > That looks like a lot of (pretty cool) engineering, but is it really > necessary? I'm thinking that a SPDT (on)- off - (on) toggle switch is all > that is really req'd to control the Tyco latching relay. > > Am I missing something? > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan de > Jong > Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 09:25 > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bistable relay control > > I'm thinking of making a monostable relay type control for bistable > relays (if and when) in one or more (or none) of the following shapes: > - 2 square inches of pcb > - mounted in a DSub DE-9 backshell > - integrated with a Tyco BDS-A contactor plug > Components will be SMD's. > > Attached two contemplated variations. > > Any and all comments welcome. > > Jan de Jong > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: latching relays
Date: Mar 10, 2011
Hi Bob, I'm following your Figure Z-19 schematic as a guide to the electrics to service an MPEFIed Sube EA81 derivative put out by Ron Carr at RAM Performance...it is powering a Europa XS, well along in its construction. With the FWF complete (well, almost complete), a lot of the wiring done for ancillary systems (fuel pumps, lighting, antennas, etc.) I'm taking a hard look at the power side of things and have just ordered 35 feet of Super-4 fatwire, and am planning on dual Odyssey batteries. And I have a couple of the generic contactors which Acft. Spruce sells as Master Relays (p/n 111-226), purchased w/ the intention of using one at each battery. A pal...a savvy guy for MARINE electrical systems...has suggested that I use "latching relays" which, he sez, will add to flight safety. I've not seen any references to them in your discussion of battery contactors in your book, though you do include some cautionary words about proper installation and potential contactor failure. What do you have to say about "latching relays" functioning as battery contactors? Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can offer...I confess to be one of those airplane builders w/ scant knowledge of the electrical side of things, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 10, 2011
From: Jim S <gjs55(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Avionics installation tools and supplies
I hope this is allowed here - My project is over and someone on this list m ay need some of the things I have left over, now-for sale. Check out this -auction on eBay - Avionics installation tools and supplies. Have many ot her aviation related items as well so check my other items on eBay. More th ings will be available soon. - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=16055680361 0&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT - Thanks, I hope someone will need something for their project. - Jim=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: latching relays
From: "markcs" <markcs(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Mar 11, 2011
Fred, I know you asked Bob for his opinion on self latching relays, but thought I would through my two penneth in. Self latching relays operate in a number of different ways including the use of permanent magnets and cam mechanisms to achieve the latching. I suppose that there are two main perceived advantages of these devices for an aircraft: 1. Once latched they do not require power to hold them open (but with your Sube you have a fairly meaty alternator so that should not be an issue for you, especially if you install an essential bus that does not require a made contactor to provide power to your ignition system). 2. Once latched they are closed unless they are positively unlatched and so any failure in the wiring etc will not cause them to unlatch, but see comment above ref the use of an essential bus. Contactors are very simple devices and have proved extremely reliable in practice. One of the principle benefits of a simple battery contactor is its function as your last port of call isolation device for your main electrical systems. If you have a fault either with a stuck starter on the the ground or perhaps an electrical fault in the air that causes smoke in the cockpit your ultimate get out of jail card is to switch off the battery contactor, and in flight with an electrically dependent engine operate the essential bus depending on your electrical architecture. If the wiring fails to a latching relay at the same time as your fault you cannot release it but if the wiring fails to a battery contactor it will release under its own steam. If I am sailing a boat, the issue is somewhat different. With a major fault and unable to release the latching relay I can normally gain access to the battery and release the positive terminal or if that isn't possible most boats I have sailed have battery isolation switches for all battery banks which would isolate the fault - both scenarios are not possible in an aircraft. So your fault isolation logic would seem to me to need to be different Just food for thought. Mark Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333524#333524 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: latching relays
From: "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com>
Date: Mar 11, 2011
A designer needs to ask, "if this part fails, how will I deal with it?" If a latching relay fails to open when commanded to, how will the electrical power be shut off? In case of a fire or imminent forced landing, the power needs to be shut off immediately. What is safer, a master contactor that fails open or one that fails closed? The engine will keep running with a failed contactor. And the essential bus will keep powering critical equipment. Your marine friend might not realize that an airplane can keep flying with the master contactor off. Simpler is better. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333525#333525 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: latching relays
> >What do you have to say about "latching relays" functioning as battery >contactors? A couple of List members have accurately captured the thought processes unique to aircraft systems design. The well considered failure modes effects analysis speaks to Plan-B . . . mitigating the effects of any particular failure. It also seeks to identify whether or not the failure is passive (fail safe) or active (oh @#$@#! how do I turn this thing off!). I've considered the latching contactor often since it was introduced to us on the List a few weeks back. I've not yet discovered the right words and reasoning one might apply to say, a design review at Hawker-Beechcraft suggesting incorporation of the device onto one of their airplanes. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Avionics installation tools and supplies
At 11:29 PM 3/10/2011, you wrote: >I hope this is allowed here - Absolutely. Thanks for the heads-up. Are you flying now? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: latching relays
At 12:39 PM 3/11/2011, you wrote: > >Mark, Joe, Bob, > >Your wisdom is very much appreciated...thank you...I have much to learn. > >Though I've been active on the matronics Europa-list, I've just joined >here and look forward to a time when I might have some wisdom to share >as well...til then, I fear I'll just be askin questions. Good . . . 'cause for sure, we can't build your airplane for you. Here is where you'll find lots of recipes for success and some help on sorting through the options. What ever you decide to do will perform as advertised. Questions are the place to start . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: remote battery charging
Date: Mar 12, 2011
All, As background and as previously posted, I'm building a Europa XS powered by an EA81 Sube variant produced by RAM Performance...it's a MPEFIed engine w/ dual intake ports and dyno'ed at 144 hp, is fitted w/ a geared Autoflite PSRU, and a RWS EC3 controller. Listed weight "wet" (?) is 176 pounds, though that would not include exhaust and cooling systems. For the past year, I've been able to design and fab an engine mounting frame, FG cowls, a twin radiator cooling system, a muffled 321 SS exhaust system, and install the various EMS temp. & pressure senders. Hopefully, the engine is hung for good...(finally). Since the Europa-list posters are virtually all using the Rotax engines, I'm hoping this aeroelectric-list will be a receptive place for me to post questions related to electric issues...particularly on the power side of things. I confess to be an absolute neophyte on all things electrical...I'm been using the AeroElectric Connection and an old copy of Tony Bingelis' Firewall Forward as my primary references. A couple of current (no pun intended) questions: Dual batteries will be located in the aft fuselage for W & B issues...I want to be able to recharge the batteries by installing a (more or less) flush, weatherproof receptacle and plug in the side of the FG fuselage, one which would replace the alligator clips on the charger. I believe I erred in buying a "Piper type socket" and "Piper type plug" (Acft. Spruce p/n 11-00500 and p/n 11042) thinking they would serve, but have concluded that their purpose is for "jump starting" rather than battery recharging. (If this is in fact so, they'll be returned.) Soooooo...can anyone suggest a brand/type/ model receptacle - plug combination suitable for battery charging? As for the batteries, originally I was thinking of using (1) Odyssey #680 and (1) #310 as back up; however, I'm persuaded by Bob's book's Fig. Z-19 and rationale for switching out one of two dual batteries of equal size during annual...thus...I'm now looking at using (2) Odyssey #545s (14AH each) for a total weight of 23.4 pounds. I see that B & C lists a slightly more powerful (16AH) battery, a BC116-1 w/ weight of 14.6 pounds (each). I can't seem to find any performance specs such as CCA rating for the B & C batteries...are they available for comparison w/ the Odysseys?...and do these brands utilize the same battery technology? Much obliged for any advice or assistance, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: remote battery charging
Dual batteries will be located in the aft fuselage for W & B issues...I want to be able to recharge the batteries by installing a (more or less) flush, weatherproof receptacle and plug in the side of the FG fuselage, one which would replace the alligator clips on the charger. I believe I erred in buying a "Piper type socket" and "Piper type plug" (Acft. Spruce p/n 11-00500 and p/n 11042) thinking they would serve, but have concluded that their purpose is for "jump starting" rather than battery recharging. (If this is in fact so, they'll be returned.) Soooooo...can anyone suggest a brand/type/model receptacle - plug combination suitable for battery charging? You CAN charge batteries through such connectors . . . as well as crank engines if that need arises. It depends on how you wire the connector to your airplane. If you have dual batteries, then getting the pair of batteries connected together for charging purposes poses a problem for needing to have contactors closed. So if the goal is battery charging/maintenance only, then about anything is fine. Take a look at trailer lighting connectors like . .. Emacs! Walmart automotive has some like this. You need three or more pins. One for ground and one to each battery through an inline fuse (can be a fuse on the battery bus). If you don't need to lock the canopy closed during charging ops, consider mounting the jack inside the airplane so you don't need to poke a hole in the skin. If the socket is inside, remove the spring loaded "lid". It's not needed and only gets in the way. I'm now looking at using (2) Odyssey #545s (14AH each) for a total weight of 23.4 pounds. I see that B & C lists a slightly more powerful (16AH) battery, a BC116-1 w/ weight of 14.6 pounds (each). I can't seem to find any performance specs . . . If you're doing the yearly change-out of the oldest battery, absolute performance is not significant. The two batteries in parallel (on less than two years old, the other less than one year old) are going to crank your engine just fine. Buy the cheapest batteries you can find that have connections which support cranking currents. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2011
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: latching relays
May I offer a thought in support of latching relays. How likely is it that the fault that causes smoke in the cockpit coincides with the failure of the relay to open? Wouldn't they be generally independent failures? I do agree that if you have plenty of amps it is hard to find a compelling reason to use them. On the other hand - Tyco must see a market for automotive power saving. For the minimalist system with PM alternator I think the notion of using latching relays can be played with. Jan de Jong ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Ciolino" <johnciolino(at)comcast.net>
Subject: remote battery charging
Date: Mar 13, 2011
Take a look at www.powerlet.com. They make receptacles for charging motorcycle batteries which could be adapted. Especially if, as Bob suggests, you mount them inside the cockpit. I don't think there are any 3 wire receptacles so you will have to use one for each battery or split the power feed. The nice thing is that you can get a receptacle with the 2 prong SAE connector that will plug into the harness from most battery tender type chargers. John Ciolino RV-8 N894Y From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 10:45 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: remote battery charging Dual batteries will be located in the aft fuselage for W & B issues...I want to be able to recharge the batteries by installing a (more or less) flush, weatherproof receptacle and plug in the side of the FG fuselage, one which would replace the alligator clips on the charger. I believe I erred in buying a "Piper type socket" and "Piper type plug" (Acft. Spruce p/n 11-00500 and p/n 11042) thinking they would serve, but have concluded that their purpose is for "jump starting" rather than battery recharging. (If this is in fact so, they'll be returned.) Soooooo...can anyone suggest a brand/type/model receptacle - plug combination suitable for battery charging? You CAN charge batteries through such connectors . . . as well as crank engines if that need arises. It depends on how you wire the connector to your airplane. If you have dual batteries, then getting the pair of batteries connected together for charging purposes poses a problem for needing to have contactors closed. So if the goal is battery charging/maintenance only, then about anything is fine. Take a look at trailer lighting connectors like . .. Emacs! Walmart automotive has some like this. You need three or more pins. One for ground and one to each battery through an inline fuse (can be a fuse on the battery bus). If you don't need to lock the canopy closed during charging ops, consider mounting the jack inside the airplane so you don't need to poke a hole in the skin. If the socket is inside, remove the spring loaded "lid". It's not needed and only gets in the way. I'm now looking at using (2) Odyssey #545s (14AH each) for a total weight of 23.4 pounds. I see that B & C lists a slightly more powerful (16AH) battery, a BC116-1 w/ weight of 14.6 pounds (each). I can't seem to find any performance specs . . . If you're doing the yearly change-out of the oldest battery, absolute performance is not significant. The two batteries in parallel (on less than two years old, the other less than one year old) are going to crank your engine just fine. Buy the cheapest batteries you can find that have connections which support cranking currents. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: remote battery charging
From: Richard Reynolds <richardreynolds(at)cox.net>
Date: Mar 13, 2011
Fred, In the aviation electrical section at West Marine, look for: Marinco ConnectPro Trolling Motor Plug and Receptacle, model 1422591, $45. It is small, light and heavy duty. I put mine under the plane. I do not "jump start" the plane from this connection, but sometimes there is a heavy current 10-15 A when recharging a dead battery after the master switch has been left on. I used Bob's Z-31 design to protect the battery from reverse polarity and 24 V. Richard Reynolds Norfolk VA RV-6A - N841RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: latching relays
From: "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com>
Date: Mar 13, 2011
Another option for using a conventional master contactor is to energize it at full voltage, then hold it at reduced voltage. I believe that Bob was working on a microprocessor based device that would do that. One could also make their own reduced voltage holding circuit using a resistor or diodes to drop the voltage along with a 3-position master switch: off, low voltage, and normal voltage. Or how about this IC along with a Power MOSFET? http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21448c.pdf I was going to use this IC to control the elevator trim servo. I think it would also work with the master contactor. It applies full voltage for a timed interval, then puts out a PWM voltage, for a price of $1.38. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333732#333732 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: remote battery charging
On 3/12/2011 10:45 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > If you don't need to lock > the canopy closed during charging ops, consider > mounting the jack inside the airplane so you don't > need to poke a hole in the skin. If the socket is > inside, remove the spring loaded "lid". It's not > needed and only gets in the way > > Bob . . . > I took this approach on my not-yet-flying RV10 with dual Odysseys. Used these "XLR" connectors: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104076# http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103444&CAWELAID=107593419 With dual batteries and scheduled swap outs, I'm thinking charging should never become a regular or normal procedure. Therefore, no holes in the skin. I mounted the XLR connector on the rear baggage bulkhead, inches from the batts, and bypassed the contactors with inline fuses. The baggage door has to be opened to access the jack. My charger came with an inline plug so I can attach the regular alligator clamps or the XLR plug. Thanks Bob and the List for guiding me on this. Bill "all I talk about these days is paint" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: remote battery charging
From: "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com>
Date: Mar 13, 2011
If you have a cigarette type power outlet in the cockpit, you can use one of these chargers for sale on eBay: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_9Rmupq9lpCs/TXzXScNgc-I/AAAAAAAAAKk/uPU9_yO6qpM/Charger.png WalMart sells a similar charger http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-Battery-Maintainer-and-Charger/13005742 but you will have to buy a separate cigarette lighter plug. Or you can put flush mounted anchor nuts or nutplates on the outside of the fuselage and use the ring terminals that come with the charger along with some screws. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333736#333736 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: latching relays
At 05:59 AM 3/13/2011, you wrote: May I offer a thought in support of latching relays. How likely is it that the fault that causes smoke in the cockpit coincides with the failure of the relay to open? Wouldn't they be generally independent failures? Very low risk. I do agree that if you have plenty of amps it is hard to find a compelling reason to use them. On the other hand - Tyco must see a market for automotive power saving. I suspect that 'power saving' is way down on the list of design goals. Increased longevity due to low values of internally generated heat might be a big driver. The mechanically latched device is not going to aggravate the effects of a transient event. It wouldn't drop out and re-close during a severe brown-out . . . and the folks who brought these to market may not have considered either . . . For the minimalist system with PM alternator I think the notion of using latching relays can be played with. Absolutely. I should remind readers that my background calls for sifting the sands of risk for the purposes of keeping folks-who-know- more-about-airplanes-than-we-do happy. I'm not implying that regulatory mandates do not mesh well with elegant solutions. But they DO tend to discourage new solutions from emerging and evolving. Let's do our own sand-sifting. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vern Little" <sprocket@vx-aviation.com>
Subject: Remote Angle of Attack Indicator
Date: Mar 13, 2011
A few months ago, there was a lot of discussion on providing remote (glareshield) mounted AoA indicators. Vx Aviation had developed such a unit in 2006, but discontinued it after a few years due to lack of demand and high support costs. Things have changed. It looks like the average pilot appreciates AoA a lot more than they did 5 years ago. In addition, the original unit, which was only compatible with Dynon D10A/D100/D120 systems is also now supported by GRT Avionics, and both MGL and Garmin are looking into supporting it as well. Due to the customer demand and the support from the OEM's, I've reconsidered reintroducing the V-Speed ADS Remote AoA indicator. More information is available here: www.vx-aviation.com. If anyone is interested in this product, please contact me to put on the notification list. Alternatively, you can order right off of the website, however, we won't be shipping for a few weeks yet. Thanks, Vern Little Vx Aviation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Radio Reception Problem
Date: Mar 14, 2011
I have a very noisy airplane particularly when in flight. I have the Garmin GNS430W and I am using an old Sigtronics headset. On the ground and taxiing, the radio works fine. When I am in the air, I start getting a lot of noise in the headset and I can hardly understand ATC. I think my sidetone goes away at this time as well. To be honest, it is so bad that I am not sure. Nothing I have tried with squelch has seemed to have any effect. I don't know where to start to try and resolve this issue. Can anyone suggest what I might do? Thanks, Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: latching relays
Date: Mar 14, 2011
Circuits like these do have their places but I don't think controlling the coil of a master solenoid is one of them. This sort of smells like a solution looking for a problem. Keep in mind that when you place more components in the critical path, the reliability of the system goes down - no matter how reliable those components are. In the case of master solenoids, (as Bob & others point out) they have proven to be pretty darn reliable. Therefore so I would be reluctant to "over-engineer" a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253 Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 06:26 Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: latching relays Another option for using a conventional master contactor is to energize it at full voltage, then hold it at reduced voltage. I believe that Bob was working on a microprocessor based device that would do that. One could also make their own reduced voltage holding circuit using a resistor or diodes to drop the voltage along with a 3-position master switch: off, low voltage, and normal voltage. Or how about this IC along with a Power MOSFET? http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21448c.pdf I was going to use this IC to control the elevator trim servo. I think it would also work with the master contactor. It applies full voltage for a timed interval, then puts out a PWM voltage, for a price of $1.38. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333732#333732 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign.
From: "plevyakh" <hplevyak(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 15, 2011
Bob, Carlos and AEC list, I've revised my architecture diagram after absorbing the feedback. I agree I have no need for the brownout battery (Z10/8) architecture. Since the LSE Plasma III's are good for starting voltage down to 6.5V.... I no longer have a worry of starter kickback with my Skytec 149-12LS (PMG) starter. I switched back to a Z13/8 architecture as my base. I did include a very small (3 lb / 2.2Ah) battery to support my EFIS's, AHRS, and Engine Information System (EIS4000) to be ON prior to start. Again, my reasoning for this is that I want to be able to turn on EFIS 1/AHRS 1 and EFIS 2/AHRS 2 to start the AHRS alignment since that can take up to two minutes. I also want the EIS on for oil pressure during start. I'd like your feedback on this small AUX Battery circuit, since I wired the DC Power recharging feed from the Main Battery Bus direct. Is this a safe approach, or should I place a Diode in between Main BATT BUS, and the AUX BATT? If yes, what kind of diode? As a follow up to prior post reply questions: > Bob Knuckoll's question: > "Is their installation/operation data published on the net anywhere?" Here's the link to the GRT EFIS Installation Manual. http://www.grtavionics.com/File/Install%20Manuals/Horizon%20Install%20Rev%20A%20Feb%202009.pdf All of their documents are found here: http://www.grtavionics.com/default.aspx?id=4 Carlos also had a few questions: > "(a) on the LOW VOLT warning light circuit for the SD8 Alternator....is this wrong in your schematic?" I pulled that off the B&C Power Distribution Diagram for the SD8. I've attached it below. It shows the alternator warning light coming off the Normally Closed tab thru the light, and then to ground. Bob, did I wire this correctly for the SD8 Low Volt LED light in my architecture? Carlos asked: > b) Why did you connect the Fuel Primer pump to your "always hot" main battery bus?" I'm using the Van's Aircraft fuel priming system. Link here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1300231865-498-318&browse=engines&product=eng-prime That circuit would be wired to the Parker Solenoid valve, via a 2-50:OFF-ON-(ON) progressive switch. With first click up PRIMER ON, and second click (Momentary) to give the engine a shot of primer. Should this be moved to a different bus? Wondering why you ask. Carlos asked: > c) In this "always hot" main battery bus, you have a connection (lower left) called Endurance Bus, which is connected to the COM terminal of the S704-1 relay....Would you explain this connection and this relay function?" When you hit the starter button, the S704-1 brownout relay is energized and isolates the BROWNOUT BATT from the MAIN BATT. My intention of using the brownout battery circuit was to isolate the brownout battery from the Main battery during engine start, such that the Endurance Bus received full volts to power my EFIS, EIS, and 2nd Plasma Ignition and NOT suffer a voltage drop due to the high initial current draw from the Skytec 149-12LS starter. But since I confirmed that my Plasma III Ignitions are good down to 6.5V, I took this circuit out. -------- I look forward to your next round of feedback and questions. Sorry for the long post....but this is helping me solidify my architecture big time! Thanks, Howard -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio hplevyak(at)mac.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334011#334011 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/power_distribution_diagram_for_model_sd8_alternator_146.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/printable_glastar_schematic_v0p2_15mar2011_for_review_391.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/glastar_schematic_v0p2_15mar2011_for_review_849.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/glastar_schematic_v0p2_15mar2011_for_review_148.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual
Lightspeed ign. At 08:07 PM 3/15/2011, you wrote: I switched back to a Z13/8 architecture as my base. I did include a very small (3 lb / 2.2Ah) battery to support my EFIS's, AHRS, and Engine Information System (EIS4000) to be ON prior to start. Again, my reasoning for this is that I want to be able to turn on EFIS 1/AHRS 1 and EFIS 2/AHRS 2 to start the AHRS alignment since that can take up to two minutes. I also want the EIS on for oil pressure during start. I'd like your feedback on this small AUX Battery circuit, since I wired the DC Power recharging feed from the Main Battery Bus direct. Is this a safe approach, or should I place a Diode in between Main BATT BUS, and the AUX BATT? If yes, what kind of diode? If you're going to have a second battery, and particularly if it is small, you don't want it being 'hit' by starter draws. You might just as well wire it as a brown-out battery a per Z10-8 so that it's automatically unhooked from the main battery during cranking. As a follow up to prior post reply questions: Carlos also had a few questions: > "(a) on the LOW VOLT warning light circuit for the SD8 Alternator....is this wrong in your schematic?" Which drawing? Warning lights shown on any of my drawings become surplus if you've got lv warning built into other systems. I pulled that off the B&C Power Distribution Diagram for the SD8. I've attached it below. It shows the alternator warning light coming off the Normally Closed tab thru the light, and then to ground. Please don't mix/match features of multiple architecture sources. Let's pick one Z-figure and adjust as necessary to meet your needs. I'll suggest Z10-8 Bob, did I wire this correctly for the SD8 Low Volt LED light in my architecture? Do you need any more lights? Carlos asked: > b) Why did you connect the Fuel Primer pump to your "always hot" main battery bus?" I'm using the Van's Aircraft fuel priming system. Link here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1300231865-498-318&browse=engines&product=eng-prime That circuit would be wired to the Parker Solenoid valve, via a 2-50:OFF-ON-(ON) progressive switch. With first click up PRIMER ON, and second click (Momentary) to give the engine a shot of primer. Should this be moved to a different bus? Wondering why you ask. Many moons ago, a couple of my readers installed 4-port primer systems and add a needle valve to their primer line such that flow to the engine was about the same during priming as it might be for 75% power. The idea was that the primer system could provide a po' boy's fuel injection system to back up the normal fuel delivery pathway to a carburetor. The topic came up again about 2006 when we talked about ways to eliminate fuel selector valves and their attendant risks for fuel leaks in the cockpit. Here, the 4-port primer/injector system and a suits of Facet pumps was proposed to eliminate all breaks in plumbing to install valves, provide for priming, and a second fuel delivery pathway. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/All-Elect-Fuel.jpg If your airplane is low wing and DEPENDS on a pump for engine operation, then it seems a prudent thing to have at least one ignition and required electric fuel delivery to run from a battery bus. This allows the electrical system to be configured for 'max cold' without killing the engine. But since I confirmed that my Plasma III Ignitions are good down to 6.5V, I took this circuit out. But you still have concerns for the avionics . . . so the brown-out battery is the cleanest way/ Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: latching relays
From: "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com>
Date: Mar 16, 2011
> Circuits like these do have their places but I don't think controlling the coil of a master solenoid is one of them. > This sort of smells like a solution looking for a problem. Keep in mind that when you place more components in the critical path, the reliability of the system goes down - no matter how reliable those components are. > In the case of master solenoids, (as Bob & others point out) they have proven to be pretty darn reliable. Therefore so I would be reluctant to "over-engineer" a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I agree with what you are saying except for the "critical path". There should always be a backup plan like an alternate feed path. A backup plan will turn a critical component into a non-critical one. I am not recommending reduced current to the master contactor for most installations. But it will be of benefit to systems that have limited generating power, or to prolong battery life when the alternator fails. A contactor coil operating at reduced voltage will generate less heat and thus be even more unlikely to fail. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334067#334067 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual Lightspeed
ign.
From: "plevyakh" <hplevyak(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 16, 2011
Bob, Thanks for the quick reply. I'll make the tweaks. Regarding your question on the SD8 Low Volt Warning light.... > "Which drawing? Warning lights shown on any of my drawings become surplus if you've got lv warning built into other systems. The only other LOW VOLT light I have is on the L-60 circuit. Here's a clearer picture on my question regarding the SD8 Alternator LOW VOLT Warning light wiring. My goal here was that when running just on the SD8, I could use a low voltage warning for the SD-8 to indicate when the battery is actually carrying part of the load. At 2700 Prop RPM (SD8 @ 3500 RPM) I get 8.4 to 10.1 amps with high fuel consumption. Having the Low Volt light allows me to make the tradeoff in flight, depending on the distance to destination. I've sized my endurance bus to 3.7V....but if I wanted to keep some equipment on with the SD8 I'd like to be able to make that tradeoff to help get me down (assuming IFR, in the soup). So directly my question is....by swapping in the LED light on the highlighted circuit is it wired correctly? Since I couldn't find a Z-architecture that had this included, I used the B&C SD8 Power distribution diagram as reference on where to pull the light warning signal. Also can you please explain how the OVM-14 module works in tripping the light to come on....or point me to one of your articles that explains that better. I'm not clear on how this works. Thank-you, Howard -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio hplevyak(at)mac.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334084#334084 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/bandc_sd8_schematic_144.png http://forums.matronics.com//files/sd8_low_volt_circuit_844.png ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: latching relays
Date: Mar 16, 2011
WARNING - STANDBY FOR LEVEL 4 NIT-PICKING. IF YOUR'RE NOT REALLY INTO THIS, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME I'm gonna provide MY definitions for some of the terms we are throwing around (just 'cause it's a slow morning around here) Let's talk about Critical Path (CP 'cause I'm a lazy typist) and Redundant Circuitry (RC). Critical Path: The chain of components required to make a circuit operate as designed. Example: Circuit breaker -> switch -> contactor coil and the wiring that connects them. All those things are in the CP because if any one fails, the circuit stops working. [Let's add an LED in parallel w/ the coil (to give the operator a visual indication) - I would say that the LED is not in the CP] Every circuit has a CP. (regardless of other circuits that may be added for redundancy) If every circuit has a CP and adding components to the CP reduces reliability, we can still increase reliability by adding a Redundant Circuit. The RC still has its own CP, but the reliability of the SYSTEM goes up. ---------- I agree that reduced coil current may add to coil longevity but these devices have proven to be so reliable that I don't think it's worth the effort. -Jeff -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253 Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 06:08 Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: latching relays > Circuits like these do have their places but I don't think controlling the coil of a master solenoid is one of them. > This sort of smells like a solution looking for a problem. Keep in mind that when you place more components in the critical path, the reliability of the system goes down - no matter how reliable those components are. > In the case of master solenoids, (as Bob & others point out) they have proven to be pretty darn reliable. Therefore so I would be reluctant to "over-engineer" a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I agree with what you are saying except for the "critical path". There should always be a backup plan like an alternate feed path. A backup plan will turn a critical component into a non-critical one. I am not recommending reduced current to the master contactor for most installations. But it will be of benefit to systems that have limited generating power, or to prolong battery life when the alternator fails. A contactor coil operating at reduced voltage will generate less heat and thus be even more unlikely to fail. Joe -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334067#334067 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fergus Kyle <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Bob Nuckolls - advice
Date: Mar 16, 2011
Bob, I realise I should test for myself, but thought it might apply to others: I am using a DB25 female and male pair for quick disconnect to accommodate up to #18 wire runs for future circuits in my instrument panel. [The whole panel OR each sub-panel is meant to be dismountable]. Since it will hold up to 12 + and - runs, I measured the male pins at 0.04 inches in diameter from the pack of 100, labelled as `S604P'. These are solid, not stamped pins and sockets. Can I consider these to carry a constant 4 amps if not bundled tightly together? AND could I parallel a set of three to carry a constant 10A in similar circumstances? I would like to know I'm operating in a`conservative' milieu and don't plan to run cfuture equipment at greater than 10A. Cheers, Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fergus Kyle <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Bob nuckolls - advice 2
Date: Mar 16, 2011
Further to my previous: A measured pin diameter is 0.04 inches, radius is 0.02", area is (0.02x0.02)xpi = 0.00125663 sq.in. x 645.16 = 0.8107319 sq.mm. This comes out between AWG20 and AWG18 - call it AWG #19. That would infer that the pin carries about 6-7 amps, having regard for irregular measuring, improper meshing of pin/socket, differing metals, temp, bundling etc. Am I in the ball park? ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <bakerocb(at)cox.net>
Subject: Transient_voltage_suppression_diode failure
Date: Mar 16, 2011
3/16/2011 Hello Fellow Aeroelectric Listers, You may be interested in the attachment and the below information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient_voltage_suppression_diode 'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to gather and understand knowledge." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Need help in reviewing Z10/8 arch for dual
Lightspeed ign. At 11:40 AM 3/16/2011, you wrote: > >Bob, >Thanks for the quick reply. I'll make the tweaks. > >Regarding your question on the SD8 Low Volt Warning light.... > > > "Which drawing? Warning lights shown on any of my drawings become > surplus if you've got lv warning built into other systems. > >The only other LOW VOLT light I have is on the L-60 circuit. > >Here's a clearer picture on my question regarding the SD8 Alternator >LOW VOLT Warning light wiring. My goal here was that when running >just on the SD8, I could use a low voltage warning for the SD-8 to >indicate when the battery is actually carrying part of the load. At >2700 Prop RPM (SD8 @ 3500 RPM) I get 8.4 to 10.1 amps with high >fuel consumption. Having the Low Volt light allows me to make the >tradeoff in flight, depending on the distance to destination. These are NOT the kinds of things you want to be doing in flight. When the big guy wanders off into the weeds, then you should have a Plan-B for the little guy's task. When A fails then B and continue flight to airport of intended destination. You don't need a light to tell you anything that is pre-ordained by planing. >I've sized my endurance bus to 3.7V....but if I wanted to keep some >equipment on with the SD8 I'd like to be able to make that tradeoff >to help get me down (assuming IFR, in the soup). You won't find a pilot's operating handbook anywhere that has the crew flipping switches, taking measurements, and crafting new plans based on real-time judgement calls as an in-flight activity. When the main alternator fails, craft a plan, test the plan, exercise the plan as necessary, fly the airplane . . . >So directly my question is....by swapping in the LED light on the >highlighted circuit is it wired correctly? That's not a "LOW VOLTS" warning light, it's an "ALT OFF" annunciator. >Since I couldn't find a Z-architecture that had this included, I >used the B&C SD8 Power distribution diagram as reference on where to >pull the light warning signal. Ditch that light. I was under the impression that you had some form of Low Volts warning in one or more of your panel mounted accessories. If not, then you need some independent, timely, and insistent notification like our 9005 DIY project or Eric's LV warning light module. >Also can you please explain how the OVM-14 module works in tripping >the light to come on....or point me to one of your articles that >explains that better. I'm not clear on how this works. See: Chapter 6 in the 'Connection. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Power for Checking Systems Out on the Ground
From: "Tundra10" <jpx(at)qenesis.com>
Date: Mar 16, 2011
I tried to order one of these power supplies, but the vendor in the example was not willing to ship to North America. I found what appears to be the same product, from anna758595 for $40 which included shipment by mail. I received the product in three weeks, nicely packaged. It is a little smaller than I imagined from the photos, which is nice. I haven't powered it on yet, but I expect it works as advertised. I ended up buying the 13.5V unit, since it can be adjusted upward to simulate battery charging voltage, or down to 12V if I wish. The adjustment is easily accessed without opening the case, tucked in with the terminal strip. Looks like a pretty decent product at a very attractive price. http://cgi.ebay.ca/13-5V-DC-25-8A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/150471439243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2308cbf38b Jeff Page Dream Aircraft Tundra #10 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334140#334140 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: latching relays
>If every circuit has a CP and adding components to the CP reduces >reliability, we can still increase reliability by adding a Redundant >Circuit. The RC still has its own CP, but the reliability of the SYSTEM >goes up. Generally speaking, the adjective "critical" is reserved for conditions that have a potential for (1) single points of failure in (2) systems needed for comfortable termination of flight where (3) no effort has been made craft a failure tolerant system. When failure tolerance has been achieved, no single failure is "critical". In little airplanes maintained by the competent observer/owner/operator, probability of two potentially critical failures in any single flight cycle (typically 4 hours max) is vanishingly small. Once a degree of failure tolerance is achieved, the system integrator can begin to massage cost/performance and parts reduction issues. The successful program starts with design goals. Goals that add/upgrade performance features (A-N versus VOR versus TACAN versus GPS). To reduce cost (less expensive parts with perhaps shorter service lives are attractive). No doubt there are other goals. When I was heavily involved in new products design and certification at Electro-Mech, one could look forward to a pretty steady stream of hopeful sales folks with a new electro-whizzy to show off. Some were really amazing advances of the state of the art . . . and would be considered for a new design. But the $time$ required to modify and old design made it unlikely that anything new gets a field retrofit. In 40+ years, I've only worked three programs that produced a fleet wide change-out of hardware and two of those were under safety of flight duress. Even when I could tell the bright-eyed salesman that he had a really nifty product, I had to remind him that we'd beat him up on price, delivery, cert documentation, and maybe . . . just maybe we'd bless him with an order for 1000 parts spread out over 10 years. Of course, that order would get perpetually modified/canceled as our line rates moved up and down with the stock market. Aviation is one of the most demanding customers yet the numbers of airplanes built every year makes them a ho-hum target for the electro- whizzy guys. Now, if you're selling rivets or aluminum . . . Okay, you've got this nifty latching contactor. I think it's fairly obvious how it might be used in our airplanes. The questions to be asked and answered are (1) does this product 'fix' some nuisance of maintenance, costs or sense of less-than-elegant functionality? Since (repeat after me) we DESIGN, CRAFT AND MAINTAIN FAILURE TOLERANT SYSTEMS, reliability and criticality are not part of the considerations. Only cost of ownership and reasonably seamless integration into the-best-we-know-how-to-do-today are the go/no-go drivers. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Bob Nuckolls - advice
At 04:16 PM 3/16/2011, you wrote: >Bob, > > I realise I should test for myself, but > thought it might apply to others: > > I am using a DB25 female and male pair for > quick disconnect to accommodate up to #18 wire > runs for future circuits in my instrument > panel. [The whole panel OR each sub-panel is meant to be dismountable]. > > Since it will hold up to 12 + and ' runs, I > measured the male pins at 0.04 inches in > diameter from the pack of 100, labelled as > `S604P=92. These are solid, not stamped pins and sockets. > > Can I consider these to carry a constant 4 > amps if not bundled tightly together? AND could > I parallel a set of three to carry a constant 10A in similar circumstances? > > I would like to know I=92m operating in > a`conservative=92 milieu and don=92t plan to run > cfuture equipment at greater than 10A. That works. When I qualified paralleled d-sub pins onto this vehicle http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/GQM_1st_Ops_Flight.jpg I had to suffer the indignities of 70C environment at full electrical loads. I de-rated the pins to 3A, paralleled 6 pins and handled three 20A input output pathways on this solid state relay box. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Misc/GQM_Power_Dist.jpg So your suggestion of 3 pins to handle 10A is as conservative that which flies at Mach 3 and 15 feet off the water. Things get really warm on the launch stand . . . and warmer still in flight through dense air. Just keep your airplane below M3 and I think you'll be just fine. I presume you understand the necessity for 'ballasting' resistors in the form of 12" of 22AWG in each pin path? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Bob nuckolls - advice 2
At 05:33 PM 3/16/2011, you wrote: >Further to my previous: > >A measured pin diameter is 0.04 inches, radius >is 0.02=94, area is (0.02x0.02)xpi = 0.00125663 >sq.in. x 645.16 = 0.8107319 sq.mm. > >This comes out between AWG20 and AWG18 ' call it AWG #19. The pin diameter isn't much of a driver. It's localized heating at the pin-spring interface inside the female pin. 3A de-rating will give you VERY comfortable performance. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Transient_voltage_suppression_diode failure
At 06:44 PM 3/16/2011, you wrote: >3/16/2011 > >Hello Fellow Aeroelectric Listers, You may be interested in the >attachment and the below information: Interesting. I had a chance to review some power distribution diagrams for Cirrus products several years ago . . . it was about the time they were incorporating the SD-20 alternator into one or more models. Many of their architecture decisions were, shall we say, novel? It would be interesting to see the details of the service bulletin . . . the wording in the notice sounds like they 'sprinkled' transorbs around the system with some notion that it was a good thing to do. Any of you who have been on the List for 13 years or so will remember some discussions about transorbs. Several of our members were proponents of transorb "sprinkling" . . . but without having a terribly good notion of how these critters are rated and how they behave. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/spike.pdf There's another transorb issue that popped up a few years ago. It was centered on this critter: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Semiconductors/704-15k36t.pdf Seems that somebody got the cool idea that you could PARALLEL numerous smaller devices and come up with an array good for soaking up lots of energy. This sorta works and a few manufacturers managed to qualify devices to this spec. But process control for having tightly matched devices to parallel was critical. I think Mooney had some of these critters "sprinkled" in their airplanes and suffered some smokey events. I discovered that situation when a hopeful supplier to Hawker-Beech proposed a new starter-generator controller- regulator. The thing had TWO of those monster transorbs paralleled in the box. Seems that lightning issues in composite airplanes drove the DO-160 qualification stresses out to the moon. Some of you may recall that I sketched a circuit for adding a transorb to the main bus of an airplane with the goal of standing off all evils. http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/SpikeTrap.gif The idea was that if something evil came along, the transorb would catch it . . . that's what transorbs do. But if it were so severe as to trigger transorbicide (transorbs do that too), then the fuse would blow and you would get an indicator light. In any case, transorbs are quite helpful for getting a black box to pass DO-160 + lightning tests. But as soon as you see these critters scattered around an airplane's electrical system, well . . . 'nuf said. What was it somebody said about latching contactors . . . "a solution looking for a problem?" Bob . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2011
From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com
Subject: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition
I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on the Left side. The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this matter. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Power for Checking Systems Out on the Ground
>I ended up buying the 13.5V unit, since it can be adjusted upward to >simulate battery charging voltage, or down to 12V if I wish. The >adjustment is easily accessed without opening the case, tucked in >with the terminal strip. Looks like a pretty decent product at a >very attractive price. > >http://cgi.ebay.ca/13-5V-DC-25-8A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/150471439243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2308cbf38b I used about a half dozen of various models in projects over the last two years. Got two of them on the bench right now. Just be careful when hooking these guys across batteries. Some of these products don't like to be reverse powered when their ac input power is removed. I use a fat schottky in series with the output to prevent tug-o-war issues. This means you might want to order the next higher voltage next time . . . but there's one resistor you can change inside that will boost the output if necessary. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 17, 2011
Subject: Current draw for lighting Buss
Hi all, I am wiring my panel. It includes a PMA 8000 audio panel, SL30, Garmin 430W and 327 transponder. Each has a pin to control the brightness on a separate lighting buss. I was going to use B&C's dimmer circuit. What I can't seem to find is what the current draw for lighting is likely to be. The specific question is, which B&C dimmer do I need. Anyone know the answer? Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 Wiring San Ramon, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
I'd like to piggy back on this question by asking how people have set these 3 units up for dimming? I have a Perihelion dimmer in place but no plan for applying it to these 3 units. I just couldn't figure out what to do. Bill "praying to the spring gods of warm painting weather" Watson > Hi all, > I am wiring my panel. It includes a PMA 8000 audio panel, SL30, > Garmin 430W and 327 transponder. Each has a pin to control the > brightness on a separate lighting buss. I was going to use B&C's > dimmer circuit. What I can't seem to find is what the current draw > for lighting is likely to be. The specific question is, which B&C > dimmer do I need. > Anyone know the answer? > Regards, > Michael Wynn > RV 8 Wiring > San Ramon, CA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
Date: Mar 17, 2011
Aren't all or most of those auto-dimming? I think you should verify that fe ature and only manual dim the ones that can't. Most things can. Tim On Mar 17, 2011, at 6:37 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > I'd like to piggy back on this question by asking how people have set thes e 3 units up for dimming? I have a Perihelion dimmer in place but no plan f or applying it to these 3 units. I just couldn't figure out what to do. > > Bill "praying to the spring gods of warm painting weather" Watson > >> Hi all, >> >> I am wiring my panel. It includes a PMA 8000 audio panel, SL30, Garmin 4 30W and 327 transponder. Each has a pin to control the brightness on a sepa rate lighting buss. I was going to use B&C's dimmer circuit. What I can't s eem to find is what the current draw for lighting is likely to be. The spec ific question is, which B&C dimmer do I need. >> >> Anyone know the answer? >> >> Regards, >> >> Michael Wynn >> RV 8 Wiring >> San Ramon, CA >> > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
That's what I was sort of thinking but didn't finish the investigation. Autodimming is good and I won't mind have an unused dimmer. Right now, I'm just dimming my Honeywell lit rockers and indicators. I assume that for autodimming, no physical installation action is required? Just turn it on (configure it) and it figures out what to do. > Aren't all or most of those auto-dimming? I think you should verify > that feature and only manual dim the ones that can't. > Most things can. > Tim > > > On Mar 17, 2011, at 6:37 AM, Bill Watson > wrote: > >> I'd like to piggy back on this question by asking how people have set >> these 3 units up for dimming? I have a Perihelion dimmer in place >> but no plan for applying it to these 3 units. I just couldn't figure >> out what to do. >> >> Bill "praying to the spring gods of warm painting weather" Watson >> >>> Hi all, >>> I am wiring my panel. It includes a PMA 8000 audio panel, SL30, >>> Garmin 430W and 327 transponder. Each has a pin to control the >>> brightness on a separate lighting buss. I was going to use B&C's >>> dimmer circuit. What I can't seem to find is what the current draw >>> for lighting is likely to be. The specific question is, which B&C >>> dimmer do I need. >>> Anyone know the answer? >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
At 01:58 AM 3/17/2011, you wrote: >Hi all, > >I am wiring my panel. It includes a PMA 8000 audio panel, SL30, >Garmin 430W and 327 transponder. Each has a pin to control the >brightness on a separate lighting buss. I was going to use B&C's >dimmer circuit. What I can't seem to find is what the current draw >for lighting is likely to be. The specific question is, which B&C >dimmer do I need. > >Anyone know the answer? In days of yore, the dimmer input line to a panel mounted accessory was a direct power supply to incandescent lamps scattered about the panel of the accessory. The dimmer input did indeed have a small but significant POWER requirement. It was this lighting philosophy that gave rise to dimmer products designed to handle power . . . the largest of the B&C dimmers would handle a panel full of post lights and a center stack stuffed with radios. The 1960 Cessna 310 had two (count 'em) TWO fat rheostats on the center console for panel dimming. Under some lighting conditions these were so hot that you could not touch the panel around the knob that controlled the rheostat. Modern lighting technologies are all over the map. Florescent, electro-luminescent, LED, gas discharge, etc . . . To further complicate matters, they do not all share the same dimming curves (apparent brightness versus applied voltage). The transition to mixed technology illumination was well under way by the 80's. I wrote a specification for the Gates-Piaggio 180 for a 3 channel dimmer controlled by one knob but with independently adjustable dimming curves to accommodate a variety of technologies. The installation manual for each of these accessories should call out the current draw for the dimmer controls. It may well be that these control pins do not supply power to the lighting components but only send a signal to the internal power supply that services those components. In this case, the control current may be measured in a handful of milliamps. Further, the dimming characteristics may be tailored to the legacy incandescent curve. Long non-answer. The short answer is you'll have to research the installation data that should be included in documents supplied with the accessories. It's a SURE bet that dimmer inputs of any stripe will not be damaged by a linearly variable dimmer control input. It probably won't be damaged by duty-cycle switched dimmers but the switching frequency of the duty-cycle dimmer might produce strange behaviors of the dimming function. You should check this out with the manufacture's field services folks or some knowledgeable installer. Has anyone on the List resolved these questions? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 17, 2011
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
As for autodimming, yes they all do this. A friend with a 430 tells me that it autodims so dim that he can't see it. He goes through the menu to adjust the brightness manually every time he flies at night. Seemed like during construction was the best time to address the issue. Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 Wiring San Ramon, CA In a message dated 3/17/2011 7:43:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com writes: That's what I was sort of thinking but didn't finish the investigation. Autodimming is good and I won't mind have an unused dimmer. Right now, I'm just dimming my Honeywell lit rockers and indicators. I assume that for autodimming, no physical installation action is required? Just turn it on (configure it) and it figures out what to do. Aren't all or most of those auto-dimming? I think you should verify that feature and only manual dim the ones that can't. Most things can. Tim On Mar 17, 2011, at 6:37 AM, Bill Watson <_Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com_ (mailto:Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com) > wrote: I'd like to piggy back on this question by asking how people have set these 3 units up for dimming? I have a Perihelion dimmer in place but no plan for applying it to these 3 units. I just couldn't figure out what to do. Bill "praying to the spring gods of warm painting weather" Watson Hi all, I am wiring my panel. It includes a PMA 8000 audio panel, SL30, Garmin 430W and 327 transponder. Each has a pin to control the brightness on a separate lighting buss. I was going to use B&C's dimmer circuit. What I can't seem to find is what the current draw for lighting is likely to be. The specific question is, which B&C dimmer do I need. Anyone know the answer? (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: Jeff Page <jpx(at)qenesis.com>
Subject: Re: Power for Checking Systems Out on the Ground
>> http://cgi.ebay.ca/13-5V-DC-25-8A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/150471439243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2308cbf38b > > I used about a half dozen of various models in projects > over the last two years. Got two of them on the bench right > now. Just be careful when hooking these guys across batteries. > Some of these products don't like to be reverse powered when > their ac input power is removed. I use a fat schottky in > series with the output to prevent tug-o-war issues. This > means you might want to order the next higher voltage > next time . . . but there's one resistor you can change > inside that will boost the output if necessary. I don't plan on connecting it in parallel with a battery, but this is an important point. I stuck a label on the power supply to remind me, in case I get different ideas a few years from now. Thanks. Jeff Page Dream Aircraft Tundra #10 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
Date: Mar 17, 2011
Klaus wants the hot wire to go to the battery directly in order to minimize voltage sag at the brain box during starting. I have a Lightspeed Plasma II+ that I originally intended to activate with the aircraft's key switch (along with the single slick magneto that I have on the left side firing the bottom plugs). Note that the Plasma II+ (and III+) have two separate wires that work with the key switch made for airplane magnetos. You can't wire a Plasma II into a standard aircraft (magneto grounding) key switch, it doesn't have these extra wires. After I read about some failures of the standard aircraft key switch I gave it some more thought and decided to eliminate the key switch as a single point failure (why lose both ignition systems with the failure of one switch). I decided to leave the magneto on the key switch and wire the Lightspeed to one of the terminals of the bussman six-fuse-block that serves as my battery bus. The fuse block is behind the instrument panel and its common terminal is connected to the Odyssey battery (on the engine side of the firewall) through a 14 gauge wire and a 20 amp klixon breaker (in a box on the firewall next to the battery to protect the 14 gauge wire). The Lightspeed shielded wire goes from the battery bus fuse block to a "BAT" switch (a toggle switch whose stem has to be pulled out of machined notches in the case in order to turn it on or off) and from the BAT switch to the Lightspeed brain box behind the instrument panel (the brain box ground is connect to a forest of faston tabs on the firewall). So yes, I did wire it to the battery but, the signal path goes from the battery through the CB on the firewall, the 14 GA tefzel wire (unshielded), the fuse block, the BAT switch and finally to the brain box!!! Bottom line....2.5 years of flying bliss, the setup works fine and I've had no problems whatsoever. I start the engine using the key switch (impulse coupled magneto only). Once the engine is running I turn on the Lightspeed. It works great with no kickback and, I can still turn the electronic ignition off during the run-up to see how the magneto and bottom plugs are working. I've also started using the Lightspeed only and had no trouble. Like many of these things that we builders tend to fret over, this is one that you should not worry about, different wiring schemes are not a big deal. Wire it in and get that bird flying. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM 2.5 years of flying fun -------------------Original Message------------------- From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on the Left side. The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this matter. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
There is one other thing to think about before you go changing the way Klaus has the wiring diagram laid out. As was mentioned in a thread a while back, the Lightspeed box has a built in crowbar to protect itself from an overvoltage event. That's why the wiring diagram shows a pullable breaker as the only circuit protection device. If the internal crowbar decides to unload on the system, the breaker pops and can be reset after the errant alternator is offline. If there is a fuse in the circuit, it will blow before the breaker does and you're SOL in terms of getting the ignition running again until the fuse can be replaced. If this one thin un-fused wire were to short to the airframe before the breaker, it would likely burn right through and become un-shorted. In the meantime, you'd be out one ignition. Best to be very careful in routing and securing this wire and after that - don't worry about it. Inspect it at annual and keep flying. There was a case where some guy put 2 lightspeeds into a lancair and wired them, as I understand it, through fuses which blew and caused a forced landing. Think twice about failure modes before changing manufacturers' wiring diagrams. Once you think it through, then wire it as you see fit, but be sure you know why you made any changes. Pax, Ed Holyoke On 3/17/2011 7:52 PM, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > Klaus wants the hot wire to go to the battery directly in order to minimize > voltage sag at the brain box during starting. I have a Lightspeed Plasma > II+ that I originally intended to activate with the aircraft's key switch > (along with the single slick magneto that I have on the left side firing the > bottom plugs). Note that the Plasma II+ (and III+) have two separate wires > that work with the key switch made for airplane magnetos. You can't wire a > Plasma II into a standard aircraft (magneto grounding) key switch, it > doesn't have these extra wires. After I read about some failures of the > standard aircraft key switch I gave it some more thought and decided to > eliminate the key switch as a single point failure (why lose both ignition > systems with the failure of one switch). > > I decided to leave the magneto on the key switch and wire the Lightspeed to > one of the terminals of the bussman six-fuse-block that serves as my battery > bus. The fuse block is behind the instrument panel and its common terminal > is connected to the Odyssey battery (on the engine side of the firewall) > through a 14 gauge wire and a 20 amp klixon breaker (in a box on the > firewall next to the battery to protect the 14 gauge wire). The Lightspeed > shielded wire goes from the battery bus fuse block to a "BAT" switch (a > toggle switch whose stem has to be pulled out of machined notches in the > case in order to turn it on or off) and from the BAT switch to the > Lightspeed brain box behind the instrument panel (the brain box ground is > connect to a forest of faston tabs on the firewall). > > So yes, I did wire it to the battery but, the signal path goes from the > battery through the CB on the firewall, the 14 GA tefzel wire (unshielded), > the fuse block, the BAT switch and finally to the brain box!!! > > Bottom line....2.5 years of flying bliss, the setup works fine and I've had > no problems whatsoever. I start the engine using the key switch (impulse > coupled magneto only). Once the engine is running I turn on the Lightspeed. > It works great with no kickback and, I can still turn the electronic > ignition off during the run-up to see how the magneto and bottom plugs are > working. I've also started using the Lightspeed only and had no trouble. > > Like many of these things that we builders tend to fret over, this is one > that you should not worry about, different wiring schemes are not a big > deal. Wire it in and get that bird flying. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > 2.5 years of flying fun > > > -------------------Original Message------------------- > > From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition > > > I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic > ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on > the Left side. > > The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin > electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am > questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the > battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being > seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel > less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any > references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this > matter. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com
Subject: Re: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
Thank you for your thoughts. So many details with the instrument panel. ----- Original Message ----- From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II Klaus wants the hot wire to go to the battery directly in order to minimize voltage sag at the brain box during starting. I have a Lightspeed Plasma II+ that I originally intended to activate with the aircraft's key switch (along with the single slick magneto that I have on the left side firing the bottom plugs). Note that the Plasma II+ (and III+) have two separate wires that work with the key switch made for airplane magnetos. You can't wire a Plasma II into a standard aircraft (magneto grounding) key switch, it doesn't have these extra wires. After I read about some failures of the standard aircraft key switch I gave it some more thought and decided to eliminate the key switch as a single point failure (why lose both ignition systems with the failure of one switch). I decided to leave the magneto on the key switch and wire the Lightspeed to one of the terminals of the bussman six-fuse-block that serves as my battery bus. The fuse block is behind the instrument panel and its common terminal is connected to the Odyssey battery (on the engine side of the firewall) through a 14 gauge wire and a 20 amp klixon breaker (in a box on the firewall next to the battery to protect the 14 gauge wire). The Lightspeed shielded wire goes from the battery bus fuse block to a "BAT" switch (a toggle switch whose stem has to be pulled out of machined notches in the case in order to turn it on or off) and from the BAT switch to the Lightspeed brain box behind the instrument panel (the brain box ground is connect to a forest of faston tabs on the firewall). So yes, I did wire it to the battery but, the signal path goes from the battery through the CB on the firewall, the 14 GA tefzel wire (unshielded), the fuse block, the BAT switch and finally to the brain box!!! Bottom line....2.5 years of flying bliss, the setup works fine and I've had no problems whatsoever. I start the engine using the key switch (impulse coupled magneto only). Once the engine is running I turn on the Lightspeed. It works great with no kickback and, I can still turn the electronic ignition off during the run-up to see how the magneto and bottom plugs are working. I've also started using the Lightspeed only and had no trouble. Like many of these things that we builders tend to fret over, this is one that you should not worry about, different wiring schemes are not a big deal. Wire it in and get that bird flying. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM 2.5 years of flying fun -------------------Original Message------------------- From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on the Left side. The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this matter. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2011
From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com
Subject: Re: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
Thank you for your insight. I enjoyed reading your email and found it to be a big help ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II There is one other thing to think about before you go changing the way Klaus has the wiring diagram laid out. As was mentioned in a thread a while back, the Lightspeed box has a built in crowbar to protect itself from an overvoltage event. That's why the wiring diagram shows a pullable breaker as the only circuit protection device. If the internal crowbar decides to unload on the system, the breaker pops and can be reset after the errant alternator is offline. If there is a fuse in the circuit, it will blow before the breaker does and you're SOL in terms of getting the ignition running again until the fuse can be replaced. If this one thin un-fused wire were to short to the airframe before the breaker, it would likely burn right through and become un-shorted. In the meantime, you'd be out one ignition. Best to be very careful in routing and securing this wire and after that - don't worry about it. Inspect it at annual and keep flying. There was a case where some guy put 2 lightspeeds into a lancair and wired them, as I understand it, through fuses which blew and caused a forced landing. Think twice about failure modes before changing manufacturers' wiring diagrams. Once you think it through, then wire it as you see fit, but be sure you know why you made any changes. Pax, Ed Holyoke On 3/17/2011 7:52 PM, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > Klaus wants the hot wire to go to the battery directly in order to minimize > voltage sag at the brain box during starting. I have a Lightspeed Plasma > II+ that I originally intended to activate with the aircraft's key switch > (along with the single slick magneto that I have on the left side firing the > bottom plugs). Note that the Plasma II+ (and III+) have two separate wires > that work with the key switch made for airplane magnetos. You can't wire a > Plasma II into a standard aircraft (magneto grounding) key switch, it > doesn't have these extra wires. After I read about some failures of the > standard aircraft key switch I gave it some more thought and decided to > eliminate the key switch as a single point failure (why lose both ignition > systems with the failure of one switch). > > I decided to leave the magneto on the key switch and wire the Lightspeed to > one of the terminals of the bussman six-fuse-block that serves as my battery > bus. The fuse block is behind the instrument panel and its common terminal > is connected to the Odyssey battery (on the engine side of the firewall) > through a 14 gauge wire and a 20 amp klixon breaker (in a box on the > firewall next to the battery to protect the 14 gauge wire). The Lightspeed > shielded wire goes from the battery bus fuse block to a "BAT" switch (a > toggle switch whose stem has to be pulled out of machined notches in the > case in order to turn it on or off) and from the BAT switch to the > Lightspeed brain box behind the instrument panel (the brain box ground is > connect to a forest of faston tabs on the firewall). > > So yes, I did wire it to the battery but, the signal path goes from the > battery through the CB on the firewall, the 14 GA tefzel wire (unshielded), > the fuse block, the BAT switch and finally to the brain box!!! > > Bottom line....2.5 years of flying bliss, the setup works fine and I've had > no problems whatsoever. I start the engine using the key switch (impulse > coupled magneto only). Once the engine is running I turn on the Lightspeed. > It works great with no kickback and, I can still turn the electronic > ignition off during the run-up to see how the magneto and bottom plugs are > working. I've also started using the Lightspeed only and had no trouble. > > Like many of these things that we builders tend to fret over, this is one > that you should not worry about, different wiring schemes are not a big > deal. Wire it in and get that bird flying. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > 2.5 years of flying fun > > > -------------------Original Message------------------- > > From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition > > > I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic > ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on > the Left side. > > The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin > electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am > questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the > battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being > seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel > less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any > references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this > matter. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
I'm with Klaus and Ed, If Klaus doesnt have enough faith in the system to wire it to the bus, neither do I. Hardwire that sucker. If it smokes and you're still around, send it back to him. His problem. I use the switch style breaker right on the panel so it's an easy hookup. I also use the optional aux 5 amp battery and mounted it under the tunnel in my Legacy. Big ole' red hooded panic switch on the panel to change over to battery power. I chickened out on the dual system and pulled one in favor of one mag. I had a Lancair test pilot in that experienced two total failures on dual EI systems. Too each his own. Dont forget to check the amperage on the auxiliary battery over some interval. Other than that the thing doesn't skip a beat. The box is supposed to put out a signal for an RPM hookup, but even with Klaus's help, I never got it working. Bought the cheapo transducer from Vans and it works fine. Glenn -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94(at)mchsi.com Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 12:30 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II Thank you for your insight. I enjoyed reading your email and found it to be a big help ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II There is one other thing to think about before you go changing the way Klaus has the wiring diagram laid out. As was mentioned in a thread a while back, the Lightspeed box has a built in crowbar to protect itself from an overvoltage event. That's why the wiring diagram shows a pullable breaker as the only circuit protection device. If the internal crowbar decides to unload on the system, the breaker pops and can be reset after the errant alternator is offline. If there is a fuse in the circuit, it will blow before the breaker does and you're SOL in terms of getting the ignition running again until the fuse can be replaced. If this one thin un-fused wire were to short to the airframe before the breaker, it would likely burn right through and become un-shorted. In the meantime, you'd be out one ignition. Best to be very careful in routing and securing this wire and after that - don't worry about it. Inspect it at annual and keep flying. There was a case where some guy put 2 lightspeeds into a lancair and wired them, as I understand it, through fuses which blew and caused a forced landing. Think twice about failure modes before changing manufacturers' wiring diagrams. Once you think it through, then wire it as you see fit, but be sure you know why you made any changes. Pax, Ed Holyoke On 3/17/2011 7:52 PM, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > Klaus wants the hot wire to go to the battery directly in order to minimize > voltage sag at the brain box during starting. I have a Lightspeed Plasma > II+ that I originally intended to activate with the aircraft's key switch > (along with the single slick magneto that I have on the left side firing the > bottom plugs). Note that the Plasma II+ (and III+) have two separate wires > that work with the key switch made for airplane magnetos. You can't wire a > Plasma II into a standard aircraft (magneto grounding) key switch, it > doesn't have these extra wires. After I read about some failures of the > standard aircraft key switch I gave it some more thought and decided to > eliminate the key switch as a single point failure (why lose both ignition > systems with the failure of one switch). > > I decided to leave the magneto on the key switch and wire the Lightspeed to > one of the terminals of the bussman six-fuse-block that serves as my battery > bus. The fuse block is behind the instrument panel and its common terminal > is connected to the Odyssey battery (on the engine side of the firewall) > through a 14 gauge wire and a 20 amp klixon breaker (in a box on the > firewall next to the battery to protect the 14 gauge wire). The Lightspeed > shielded wire goes from the battery bus fuse block to a "BAT" switch (a > toggle switch whose stem has to be pulled out of machined notches in the > case in order to turn it on or off) and from the BAT switch to the > Lightspeed brain box behind the instrument panel (the brain box ground is > connect to a forest of faston tabs on the firewall). > > So yes, I did wire it to the battery but, the signal path goes from the > battery through the CB on the firewall, the 14 GA tefzel wire (unshielded), > the fuse block, the BAT switch and finally to the brain box!!! > > Bottom line....2.5 years of flying bliss, the setup works fine and I've had > no problems whatsoever. I start the engine using the key switch (impulse > coupled magneto only). Once the engine is running I turn on the Lightspeed. > It works great with no kickback and, I can still turn the electronic > ignition off during the run-up to see how the magneto and bottom plugs are > working. I've also started using the Lightspeed only and had no trouble. > > Like many of these things that we builders tend to fret over, this is one > that you should not worry about, different wiring schemes are not a big > deal. Wire it in and get that bird flying. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > 2.5 years of flying fun > > > -------------------Original Message------------------- > > From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition > > > I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic > ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on > the Left side. > > The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin > electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am > questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the > battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being > seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel > less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any > references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this > matter. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: Jeff Page <jpx(at)qenesis.com>
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
> Aren't all or most of those auto-dimming? I think you should verify that fe > ature and only manual dim the ones that can't. > Most things can. > Tim My Garmin 430W is autodimming, but the function is adversely affected in my Cessna 172 by the overhead red light that gently illuminates the entire panel. It took a lot of playing with the (non-intuitive) dimming curve to make it work properly. I was unable to truly simulate in flight at night lighting conditions on the ground, because the exact level of the overhead light was significant. Having my hand in front of the unit to press the buttons affected it too. I have it balanced now, but changing the overhead light level messes it up :-( On my Tundra, I intend to try to make the manual dimming mode work with whatever dimmers I choose, which will give me more direct control. I guess the other option would be to not provide general illumination for the panel, which would require reverse lighting of all the switch labels. Jeff Page Dream Aircraft Tundra #10 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
An excerpt from a LSI service bulletin found at: http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/News/ServiceBulletins.htm Electrical System Requirements All Plasma CDI systems can be used with 12 or 24 volt electrical systems. Input voltages above 35 volts or reversed polarity can cause system damage. For this reason it is mandatory that all aircraft using Plasma CD Ignitions are equipped with over-voltage protection in their alternator charging system(s). Over-voltage protection is a requirement for certified aircraft. Power connection must be directly to the battery terminals to avoid voltage spikes and electrical noise. Aluminum should never be used as an electrical conductor for the Plasma CDI. Use only the supplied aircraft quality stranded wire. Minimum supply voltage for starting is 6.5 Volts. Minimum operating voltage is 5.5 Volts. ------------------------ This ignition system has been under development since 1986. I met Klaus at OSH for the first time that year. He was offering an MSD racing spark-generator combined with his own trigger-timing system to make it more aircraft friendly. In terms of engine performance, it was indeed a quantum jump forward. He had the fastest Ez on the planet back then. But the system wasn't ready for prime-time in the OBAM aviation market. It was big, heavy, and produced radio noise like Marconi's spark gap transmitter. The product has come a very long way since then. It has suffered the odd error of design or fabrication over the years, there are a hand full of failure events due to manufacturing error . . . but no more than one would expect to see from any emerging product that was developed on 1% of a NASA budget for the same device. It's a safe assertion that Klaus has carried out his development and marketing programs with due diligence to the customers. He has learned his lessons well over 25 years attendance in the school of realistic free-market enterprise. But Klaus is not a system integrator. As a very small business entrepreneur he has properly focused his attention to performance of the INNER workings of his product. It follows then that there may be errors of perception when it comes to recommendations for the OUTER workings when his product is being contemplated for use on YOUR airplane. Klaus is not unique in this fundamental fact of life in the aviation world. Really BIG names like Garmin, King, Narco, ARC and others have displayed their lack of knowledge of real-world conditions that surround their installed products. Their installation manuals have offered ideas and recommendations based on "worries" that have no foundations in fact for decades. Having worked both sides of the fence as both a supplier and integrator of black boxes, I'm blessed with an appreciation of how badly that 'fence' can block the useful exchange of simple- ideas between the two camps. A major component of my professional activities in general aviation was to function as a liaison between the black-box and airframe guys. I've got some jaw dropping stories to tell about $millions$ blown down the tubes because somebody on one side of the fence or the other wasn't interested in understanding the simple-ideas that tied his product to stuff from the other side of the fence. Suffice it to say that I perceive only two niggling 'problems' with Klaus's perceptions of the world in which his products live and perform quite well. Further, both problems are residents of that wildly misunderstood world of noise, spikes and overvoltage. One is the shielded power wire thing. Shielding does NOTHING for the mitigation of noise in anything except a very narrow range of issues. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/MagnetoSwitchOptions.pdf Page 12 of http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/richter/response_2.pdf Shielding of the power wire for an LSI ignition system accomplishes nothing. The excerpt above contains the statement: Power connection must be directly to the battery terminals to avoid voltage spikes and electrical noise. We have discussed the spikes and noise thing at great length here on the List. Some of you will recall lengthy discussions about 10 years ago with a couple of gentlemen who had a great deal of shade-tree folk lore to share but neither of whom spent one hour in a DO-160 test lab or crawling around an airplane chasing root cause of a real noise issue. There are no products with any track-record in aviation that will benefit from "purer power" offered at the terminals of a battery . . . and the LSI system is a member of the community of aviation products with long and successful track records. Suffice it to say that the LSI system is at no risk of improper function or premature failure for getting its power from ANY point in the system as DICTATED by your own design goals and failure modes effects analysis. The folks here on the list fly everything from Kitfoxes to LA-IVP. Any and all might avail themselves of the value offered by the LSI ignition systems. If it were my airplane, my LSI ignition(s) would power from separate 5A fuses/breakers tied to the battery bus. If you've got two engine driven power sources (Z-13), then you might power one of the ignitions through a 5A fuses/breakers on the e-bus. If Z-12, then one from the battery bus and the other from the main bus. Whether you use breakers or fuses matters not. Whether you can REACH the breakers or fuses matters not. Exactly where that power comes from is of very little significance except as it becomes a part of your Plan-B for dealing with an alternator-out situation. The LSI system may have ov protection for levels that exceed it's maximum operation voltage (35 volts) but even if it were a crowbar system that pops breakers/fuses it is of no concern in a 14v system . . . or any system that's properly fitted with ov protection at 16.4/32.8 volts per legacy design goals. I'll be meeting with Klaus on other matters later this year and we'll discuss an AEC review of his published installation recommendations. In the mean time, know that the worries circulating amongst the OBAM aviation community have no foundation in facts known to us at this time. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com
Subject: Re: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
Thank you this information to increase my understanding and eloquently stated as well. I will stay with the design per Z-12. I have one Slick mag on the left and the LSI Hall effect sensor on the right mag location on the Aerosport IO-320. As you have mentioned on other posts, I will probably use the Slick mag until it fails and then switch to a dual electronic ignition system. The traditional magneto gives me some comfort at this time but I would expect the next 10 years to see considerable progress in this area. I to have a great respect for the product which is why I choose it over competitors and the other alternative of using traditional magnetos, although I have never met Mr. Savier he has a well thought out system that is very good considering the shoe string budget. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 9:53:48 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II An excerpt from a LSI service bulletin found at: http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/News/ServiceBulletins.htm Electrical System Requirements All Plasma CDI systems can be used with 12 or 24 volt electrical systems. Input voltages above 35 volts or reversed polarity can cause system damage. For this reason it is mandatory that all aircraft using Plasma CD Ignitions are equipped with over-voltage protection in their alternator charging system(s). Over-voltage protection is a requirement for certified aircraft. Power connection must be directly to the battery terminals to avoid voltage spikes and electrical noise. Aluminum should never be used as an electrical conductor for the Plasma CDI. Use only the supplied aircraft quality stranded wire. Minimum supply voltage for starting is 6.5 Volts. Minimum operating voltage is 5.5 Volts. ------------------------ This ignition system has been under development since 1986. I met Klaus at OSH for the first time that year. He was offering an MSD racing spark-generator combined with his own trigger-timing system to make it more aircraft friendly. In terms of engine performance, it was indeed a quantum jump forward. He had the fastest Ez on the planet back then. But the system wasn't ready for prime-time in the OBAM aviation market. It was big, heavy, and produced radio noise like Marconi's spark gap transmitter. The product has come a very long way since then. It has suffered the odd error of design or fabrication over the years, there are a hand full of failure events due to manufacturing error . . . but no more than one would expect to see from any emerging product that was developed on 1% of a NASA budget for the same device. It's a safe assertion that Klaus has carried out his development and marketing programs with due diligence to the customers. He has learned his lessons well over 25 years attendance in the school of realistic free-market enterprise. But Klaus is not a system integrator. As a very small business entrepreneur he has properly focused his attention to performance of the INNER workings of his product. It follows then that there may be errors of perception when it comes to recommendations for the OUTER workings when his product is being contemplated for use on YOUR airplane. Klaus is not unique in this fundamental fact of life in the aviation world. Really BIG names like Garmin, King, Narco, ARC and others have displayed their lack of knowledge of real-world conditions that surround their installed products. Their installation manuals have offered ideas and recommendations based on "worries" that have no foundations in fact for decades. Having worked both sides of the fence as both a supplier and integrator of black boxes, I'm blessed with an appreciation of how badly that 'fence' can block the useful exchange of simple- ideas between the two camps. A major component of my professional activities in general aviation was to function as a liaison between the black-box and airframe guys. I've got some jaw dropping stories to tell about $millions$ blown down the tubes because somebody on one side of the fence or the other wasn't interested in understanding the simple-ideas that tied his product to stuff from the other side of the fence. Suffice it to say that I perceive only two niggling 'problems' with Klaus's perceptions of the world in which his products live and perform quite well. Further, both problems are residents of that wildly misunderstood world of noise, spikes and overvoltage. One is the shielded power wire thing. Shielding does NOTHING for the mitigation of noise in anything except a very narrow range of issues. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/MagnetoSwitchOptions.pdf Page 12 of http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/richter/response_2.pdf Shielding of the power wire for an LSI ignition system accomplishes nothing. The excerpt above contains the statement: Power connection must be directly to the battery terminals to avoid voltage spikes and electrical noise. We have discussed the spikes and noise thing at great length here on the List. Some of you will recall lengthy discussions about 10 years ago with a couple of gentlemen who had a great deal of shade-tree folk lore to share but neither of whom spent one hour in a DO-160 test lab or crawling around an airplane chasing root cause of a real noise issue. There are no products with any track-record in aviation that will benefit from "purer power" offered at the terminals of a battery . . . and the LSI system is a member of the community of aviation products with long and successful track records. Suffice it to say that the LSI system is at no risk of improper function or premature failure for getting its power from ANY point in the system as DICTATED by your own design goals and failure modes effects analysis. The folks here on the list fly everything from Kitfoxes to LA-IVP. Any and all might avail themselves of the value offered by the LSI ignition systems. If it were my airplane, my LSI ignition(s) would power from separate 5A fuses/breakers tied to the battery bus. If you've got two engine driven power sources (Z-13), then you might power one of the ignitions through a 5A fuses/breakers on the e-bus. If Z-12, then one from the battery bus and the other from the main bus. Whether you use breakers or fuses matters not. Whether you can REACH the breakers or fuses matters not. Exactly where that power comes from is of very little significance except as it becomes a part of your Plan-B for dealing with an alternator-out situation. The LSI system may have ov protection for levels that exceed it's maximum operation voltage (35 volts) but even if it were a crowbar system that pops breakers/fuses it is of no concern in a 14v system . . . or any system that's properly fitted with ov protection at 16.4/32.8 volts per legacy design goals. I'll be meeting with Klaus on other matters later this year and we'll discuss an AEC review of his published installation recommendations. In the mean time, know that the worries circulating amongst the OBAM aviation community have no foundation in facts known to us at this time. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com
Subject: Re: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
Thank you for the practical advice regarding the rpm hook-up. The Garmin G3X sytem I am installing uses a pick-up off the Left Slick mag. I will still use the output section of the LSI control box which I beleive can be used for checking timing. ----- Original Message ----- From: longg(at)pjm.com Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:40:47 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II I'm with Klaus and Ed, If Klaus doesnt have enough faith in the system to wire it to the bus, neither do I. Hardwire that sucker. If it smokes and you're still around, send it back to him. His problem. I use the switch style breaker right on the panel so it's an easy hookup. I also use the optional aux 5 amp battery and mounted it under the tunnel in my Legacy. Big ole' red hooded panic switch on the panel to change over to battery power. I chickened out on the dual system and pulled one in favor of one mag. I had a Lancair test pilot in that experienced two total failures on dual EI systems. Too each his own. Dont forget to check the amperage on the auxiliary battery over some interval. Other than that the thing doesn't skip a beat. The box is supposed to put out a signal for an RPM hookup, but even with Klaus's help, I never got it working. Bought the cheapo transducer from Vans and it works fine. Glenn -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94(at)mchsi.com Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 12:30 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II Thank you for your insight. I enjoyed reading your email and found it to be a big help ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II There is one other thing to think about before you go changing the way Klaus has the wiring diagram laid out. As was mentioned in a thread a while back, the Lightspeed box has a built in crowbar to protect itself from an overvoltage event. That's why the wiring diagram shows a pullable breaker as the only circuit protection device. If the internal crowbar decides to unload on the system, the breaker pops and can be reset after the errant alternator is offline. If there is a fuse in the circuit, it will blow before the breaker does and you're SOL in terms of getting the ignition running again until the fuse can be replaced. If this one thin un-fused wire were to short to the airframe before the breaker, it would likely burn right through and become un-shorted. In the meantime, you'd be out one ignition. Best to be very careful in routing and securing this wire and after that - don't worry about it. Inspect it at annual and keep flying. There was a case where some guy put 2 lightspeeds into a lancair and wired them, as I understand it, through fuses which blew and caused a forced landing. Think twice about failure modes before changing manufacturers' wiring diagrams. Once you think it through, then wire it as you see fit, but be sure you know why you made any changes. Pax, Ed Holyoke On 3/17/2011 7:52 PM, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > Klaus wants the hot wire to go to the battery directly in order to minimize > voltage sag at the brain box during starting. I have a Lightspeed Plasma > II+ that I originally intended to activate with the aircraft's key switch > (along with the single slick magneto that I have on the left side firing the > bottom plugs). Note that the Plasma II+ (and III+) have two separate wires > that work with the key switch made for airplane magnetos. You can't wire a > Plasma II into a standard aircraft (magneto grounding) key switch, it > doesn't have these extra wires. After I read about some failures of the > standard aircraft key switch I gave it some more thought and decided to > eliminate the key switch as a single point failure (why lose both ignition > systems with the failure of one switch). > > I decided to leave the magneto on the key switch and wire the Lightspeed to > one of the terminals of the bussman six-fuse-block that serves as my battery > bus. The fuse block is behind the instrument panel and its common terminal > is connected to the Odyssey battery (on the engine side of the firewall) > through a 14 gauge wire and a 20 amp klixon breaker (in a box on the > firewall next to the battery to protect the 14 gauge wire). The Lightspeed > shielded wire goes from the battery bus fuse block to a "BAT" switch (a > toggle switch whose stem has to be pulled out of machined notches in the > case in order to turn it on or off) and from the BAT switch to the > Lightspeed brain box behind the instrument panel (the brain box ground is > connect to a forest of faston tabs on the firewall). > > So yes, I did wire it to the battery but, the signal path goes from the > battery through the CB on the firewall, the 14 GA tefzel wire (unshielded), > the fuse block, the BAT switch and finally to the brain box!!! > > Bottom line....2.5 years of flying bliss, the setup works fine and I've had > no problems whatsoever. I start the engine using the key switch (impulse > coupled magneto only). Once the engine is running I turn on the Lightspeed. > It works great with no kickback and, I can still turn the electronic > ignition off during the run-up to see how the magneto and bottom plugs are > working. I've also started using the Lightspeed only and had no trouble. > > Like many of these things that we builders tend to fret over, this is one > that you should not worry about, different wiring schemes are not a big > deal. Wire it in and get that bird flying. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > 2.5 years of flying fun > > > -------------------Original Message------------------- > > From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition > > > I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic > ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on > the Left side. > > The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin > electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am > questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the > battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being > seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel > less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any > references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this > matter. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Date: Mar 18, 2011
Two things: 1) It is BUS not BUSS. 2) Because of the low luminous efficiency of incandescent indicator lamps, (maybe a few lumens/watt), the current draw of a panel full of small incandescent lamps is enormous. They are also rarely put in series. So--consider it important to use LEDs in your airplane. And get rid of those push-to-test lamp buttons. Okay that's three or four things. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334302#334302 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
Yes, I bought the Simpson display and wiring harness that Klaus sells on his website. It's very helpful in determining rpm/map/timing for each. One note is that the dual system display only works for both if the powered side (on mine, that's the left IGN) is on. If you go this route and are planning dual EI in the future, get a display for each which makes the wiring easier and isolates the display in case of a failure. The display values seem very accurate. If you are comfortable with wires and solder you can buy the display cheap and wire it yourself. Glenn E. Long -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94(at)mchsi.com Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 12:51 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II Thank you for the practical advice regarding the rpm hook-up. The Garmin G3X sytem I am installing uses a pick-up off the Left Slick mag. I will still use the output section of the LSI control box which I beleive can be used for checking timing. ----- Original Message ----- From: longg(at)pjm.com Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:40:47 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II I'm with Klaus and Ed, If Klaus doesnt have enough faith in the system to wire it to the bus, neither do I. Hardwire that sucker. If it smokes and you're still around, send it back to him. His problem. I use the switch style breaker right on the panel so it's an easy hookup. I also use the optional aux 5 amp battery and mounted it under the tunnel in my Legacy. Big ole' red hooded panic switch on the panel to change over to battery power. I chickened out on the dual system and pulled one in favor of one mag. I had a Lancair test pilot in that experienced two total failures on dual EI systems. Too each his own. Dont forget to check the amperage on the auxiliary battery over some interval. Other than that the thing doesn't skip a beat. The box is supposed to put out a signal for an RPM hookup, but even with Klaus's help, I never got it working. Bought the cheapo transducer from Vans and it works fine. Glenn -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fedico94(at)mchsi.com Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 12:30 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II Thank you for your insight. I enjoyed reading your email and found it to be a big help ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Lightspeed Plasma II There is one other thing to think about before you go changing the way Klaus has the wiring diagram laid out. As was mentioned in a thread a while back, the Lightspeed box has a built in crowbar to protect itself from an overvoltage event. That's why the wiring diagram shows a pullable breaker as the only circuit protection device. If the internal crowbar decides to unload on the system, the breaker pops and can be reset after the errant alternator is offline. If there is a fuse in the circuit, it will blow before the breaker does and you're SOL in terms of getting the ignition running again until the fuse can be replaced. If this one thin un-fused wire were to short to the airframe before the breaker, it would likely burn right through and become un-shorted. In the meantime, you'd be out one ignition. Best to be very careful in routing and securing this wire and after that - don't worry about it. Inspect it at annual and keep flying. There was a case where some guy put 2 lightspeeds into a lancair and wired them, as I understand it, through fuses which blew and caused a forced landing. Think twice about failure modes before changing manufacturers' wiring diagrams. Once you think it through, then wire it as you see fit, but be sure you know why you made any changes. Pax, Ed Holyoke On 3/17/2011 7:52 PM, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > Klaus wants the hot wire to go to the battery directly in order to minimize > voltage sag at the brain box during starting. I have a Lightspeed Plasma > II+ that I originally intended to activate with the aircraft's key switch > (along with the single slick magneto that I have on the left side firing the > bottom plugs). Note that the Plasma II+ (and III+) have two separate wires > that work with the key switch made for airplane magnetos. You can't wire a > Plasma II into a standard aircraft (magneto grounding) key switch, it > doesn't have these extra wires. After I read about some failures of the > standard aircraft key switch I gave it some more thought and decided to > eliminate the key switch as a single point failure (why lose both ignition > systems with the failure of one switch). > > I decided to leave the magneto on the key switch and wire the Lightspeed to > one of the terminals of the bussman six-fuse-block that serves as my battery > bus. The fuse block is behind the instrument panel and its common terminal > is connected to the Odyssey battery (on the engine side of the firewall) > through a 14 gauge wire and a 20 amp klixon breaker (in a box on the > firewall next to the battery to protect the 14 gauge wire). The Lightspeed > shielded wire goes from the battery bus fuse block to a "BAT" switch (a > toggle switch whose stem has to be pulled out of machined notches in the > case in order to turn it on or off) and from the BAT switch to the > Lightspeed brain box behind the instrument panel (the brain box ground is > connect to a forest of faston tabs on the firewall). > > So yes, I did wire it to the battery but, the signal path goes from the > battery through the CB on the firewall, the 14 GA tefzel wire (unshielded), > the fuse block, the BAT switch and finally to the brain box!!! > > Bottom line....2.5 years of flying bliss, the setup works fine and I've had > no problems whatsoever. I start the engine using the key switch (impulse > coupled magneto only). Once the engine is running I turn on the Lightspeed. > It works great with no kickback and, I can still turn the electronic > ignition off during the run-up to see how the magneto and bottom plugs are > working. I've also started using the Lightspeed only and had no trouble. > > Like many of these things that we builders tend to fret over, this is one > that you should not worry about, different wiring schemes are not a big > deal. Wire it in and get that bird flying. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > 2.5 years of flying fun > > > -------------------Original Message------------------- > > From: fedico94(at)mchsi.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z-12 and Plasma II ignition > > > I am building an RV-9A per Z-12 outline. The plane has one elctronic > ignition on the right going to the top cylinders and one Slick magneto on > the Left side. > > The manufacturer of the electronic ignition insists that the rather thin > electrical wire (shelded cable) be attached directly to the battery. I am > questioning the advisability of this unless a fuse or CB placed at the > battery. Uncomfotable with this hot wire entering the fuselage and being > seperated from the battery bus. If the fuse is on the engine side I feel > less in control to replace the fuse or reset the CB. Could not find any > references on the this website. Would appreciate your thoughts on this > matter. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Toggle switch keyways redux
>At 10:54 AM 3/1/2011, I wrote: >I would take "keyway conventions" with a grain of salt! > > When we began to study the application of progressive > transfer switches I published drawings with numbered > terminals to assist the neophyte technician in getting > wires on the right terminals the first time. I discovered > that the way Microswitch and Carling built their progressive > switches was not the same. I had to publish this piece to > make folks aware of the differences: > >http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Carling_Micro/Carling_Micro.pdf > > . . . right and left hand columns were functionally > swapped between the two brands. In later years, > I think Carling swapped their progressive transfer > switches to conform to what the mil-spec guys > were doing. > Microswitch had numbers molded into their switch > housings as did the other high-end suppliers. So > I adopted THEIR convention for speaking to terminal > numbering versus functionality. -------------------------------- I was wiring up a Microswitch product yesterday and noted (1) terminal numbers were indeed molded into the switch housing and (2) my illustration cited above was technically correct. But I see that while looking into the back of the switch, the numbers are right-side-up for reading when the key-way was down. Years later, I have no recollection of why I chose to reference the illustration key-way up . . . flip of the coin I guess. In any case, a degree of confusion would no doubt have been avoided had I translated more accurately from the data presented in the manufacturer's catalog data. For newer members to the List, I'll mention that the 'Connection website has an archive of manufacturer's data publications at: http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data.html If anyone discovers data on a useful product that could be added to this archive, please let me know about it. The short lesson here is that it's never a waste of time to look over and understand the published data that supports proposed installation of a device. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transient_voltage_suppression_diode failure
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Date: Mar 18, 2011
Looks just like that Perihelion Design thing they call a SnapJack. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334316#334316 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Transient_voltage_suppression_diode failure
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
Eric, you're on a roll today. Q - the whackjack thing you sell: does that have a mounting hole or does it screw onto a 1/4 bolt or what? I'm pausing about where that thing would install up front. Also, how large a wire do you run from the whackjack to the B Terminal? With the Nuclear Plant problem in Japan (sort of like an alternator that won't turn off), I'm thinking this is a good investment. Glenn E. Long -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M. Jones Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 3:43 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Transient_voltage_suppression_diode failure Looks just like that Perihelion Design thing they call a SnapJack. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334316#334316 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 18, 2011
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
Thanks, Eric All this time, I though bus was what you drove and buss was where the power was. I guess the real buss is a kiss and kisses, while powerful, don't actually carry current (although they can be electrifying). I understand the LED advantage and plan to illuminate the panel with an LED strip. I was looking at a lighting bus just for the avionics. It would only carry the current necessary for the four radios. I can't imagine it is more than a amp or two. Do you have any idea? Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 Wiring San Ramon (land of the functionally illiterate) In a message dated 3/18/2011 10:40:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, emjones(at)charter.net writes: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" Two things: 1) It is BUS not BUSS. 2) Because of the low luminous efficiency of incandescent indicator lamps, (maybe a few lumens/watt), the current draw of a panel full of small incandescent lamps is enormous. They are also rarely put in series. So--consider it important to use LEDs in your airplane. And get rid of those push-to-test lamp buttons. Okay that's three or four things. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334302#334302 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Current draw for lighting Buss
Date: Mar 18, 2011
I'm just guessing here but I imagine at least some of these just use the dim mer input as a reference source. You will have to call the various mfg's to k now for sure. Tim Sent from my iPhone On Mar 18, 2011, at 3:23 PM, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote: > Thanks, Eric > > All this time, I though bus was what you drove and buss was where the powe r was. I guess the real buss is a kiss and kisses, while powerful, don't ac tually carry current (although they can be electrifying). > > I understand the LED advantage and plan to illuminate the panel with an LE D strip. I was looking at a lighting bus just for the avionics. It would o nly carry the current necessary for the four radios. I can't imagine it is m ore than a amp or two. Do you have any idea? > > Regards, > > Michael Wynn > RV 8 Wiring > San Ramon (land of the functionally illiterate) > > In a message dated 3/18/2011 10:40:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, emjones@ charter.net writes: net> > > Two things: > > 1) It is BUS not BUSS. > > 2) Because of the low luminous efficiency of incandescent indicator lamps, (maybe a few lumens/watt), the current draw of a panel full of small incand escent lamps is enormous. They are also rarely put in series. So--consider i t important to use LEDs in your airplane. > > And get rid of those push-to-test lamp buttons. Okay that's three or four t hings. > > -------- > Eric M. Jones > www.PerihelionDesign.com > 113 Brentwood Drive > Southbridge, MA 01550 > (508) 764-2072 > emjones(at)charter.net > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334302#334302===== ========================== =============== ========================== ======= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ====== ========================== ================ - List Contribut ion Web Site sp; ============ ========================== ============ > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Toggle switch keyways redux
> Years later, I have no recollection of why I chose > to reference the illustration key-way up . . . flip > of the coin I guess. In any case, a degree of confusion > would no doubt have been avoided had I translated more > accurately from the data presented in the manufacturer's > catalog data. Actually, now I do recall. We were just beginning to consider the utility of 2-pole, progressive transfer switches. In particular the 2-10 for OFF, BAT, BAT+ALT function as a DC PWR MASTER and the 2-50 as an OFF, PUMP, PUMP+PRIME functionality for fuel systems. The -50 switch would be oriented such that the PUMP+PRIME position was spring-loaded back to center for PUMP only. The the spring loaded position was on the key-way side, hence . . . key-way up became the "AEC convention" if you will for use of these switches in the Z-figures. Stir the gray matter gently and with patience. Never can tell what useful data might bubble to the surface. . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wiring dual lightspeed ign w/ key'd ignition switch
From: "plevyakh" <hplevyak(at)mac.com>
Date: Mar 19, 2011
Folks, If anyone out there has wired their dual plasma III ignition system with a key'd ignition switch....I'd sure appreciate you sharing your wire schematic with me. I have the schematic from LSE, but just am looking to for a double check on my wiring understanding of Klaus's schematic with how it's then wired to the back of the ACS Products A510 keyed switch. I just want a sanity check. Thanks! Howard -------- Howard Plevyak GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio hplevyak(at)mac.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=334415#334415 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Switch Selection
Date: Mar 20, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
All, I have a EI that I want to provide power to from two sources (main battery and alt battery). Would using a 1-3 switch be ok for this application? ON-OFF-ON I'm thinking... Terminal 1 - From Batt Bus (Primary) Terminal 2 - EI Lead (grounded separately) Terminal 3 - From alternate Battery. (Emergency) Thanks, Glenn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2011
From: John Grosse <grosseair(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Switch Selection
You're putting all your apples in one basket. It the switch fails your two batteries won't do you any good. John Grosse > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > longg(at)pjm.com > March 20, 2011 8:27 PM > > > All, > > I have a EI that I want to provide power to from two sources (main > battery and alt battery). > > Would using a 1-3 switch be ok for this application? ON-OFF-ON > > I'm thinking... > > Terminal 1 - From Batt Bus (Primary) > > Terminal 2 - EI Lead (grounded separately) > > Terminal 3 - From alternate Battery. (Emergency) > > Thanks, > > Glenn > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Switch Selection
At 09:27 PM 3/20/2011, you wrote: >All, > >I have a EI that I want to provide power to from two sources (main >battery and alt battery). why? >Would using a 1-3 switch be ok for this application? ON-OFF-ON yes >I'm thinking... > >Terminal 1 - From Batt Bus (Primary) > >Terminal 2 - EI Lead (grounded separately) > >Terminal 3 - From alternate Battery. (Emergency) If you've got a well maintained and failure tolerant system, you won't have an electrical 'emergency'. Under what conceivable scenario do you believe you're going to loose the main battery as a source of ignition system power? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Switch Selection
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
Bob, This would happen is if the battery connection became loose, the 5 amp panel breaker switch failed, the switch wire comes loose behind the panel or it blows my inline 20 AMP fuse (near the battery) that I have in front of the 5 amp breaker switch which protects the line from major overload. The alternate battery concept is a suggested design from Lightspeed. There needs to be a way to switch between the two. Naturally if there is any break in electrical power, the EI goes away immediately and you're in instant do-do. If the Lightspeed were really well designed it would sense a loss of power go directly to backup power and alert the driver to the fact. This is not the case. If on take-off my breaker switch decides to give up the ghost, I've just lost 1 EI. Paranoid? Maybe, but it does happen. Yesterday, the switch I used to change between normal battery power and backup battery power died just as I was beginning my run-up. Glad that happened on the ground and not at 50 feet above the ground. If flying at altitude I could have easily switched to backup power and everything would have went along fine (assuming the switch is OK). So bottom line is that any loss of power and you lose a very critical component. I'm not talking here about losing a light or a radio or whatever (they don't make the engine run). Glenn E. Long -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 8:46 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch Selection At 09:27 PM 3/20/2011, you wrote: >All, > >I have a EI that I want to provide power to from two sources (main >battery and alt battery). why? >Would using a 1-3 switch be ok for this application? ON-OFF-ON yes >I'm thinking... > >Terminal 1 - From Batt Bus (Primary) > >Terminal 2 - EI Lead (grounded separately) > >Terminal 3 - From alternate Battery. (Emergency) If you've got a well maintained and failure tolerant system, you won't have an electrical 'emergency'. Under what conceivable scenario do you believe you're going to loose the main battery as a source of ignition system power? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: John Grosse <grosseair(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Switch Selection
Which is exactly why I said you don't want ONE switch. Give each battery its own switch. John Grosse > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > longg(at)pjm.com > March 21, 2011 9:55 AM > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: > > Bob, > > Yesterday, the switch I used to change between normal battery power and > backup battery power died just as I was beginning my run-up. > > Glenn E. Long > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Switch Selection
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
Thanks John, Sorry, I missed your earlier comment somewhere. Yes, that would be a more secure/separable option. I'm open to good ideas and not afraid to change for the better. I'm also a bit tired of paying good money for switches that offer lots of capability but later fail as a result of it. Single pole is simple and usually works - even if it means a few more switches. Glenn E. Long -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Grosse Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 11:18 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch Selection Which is exactly why I said you don't want ONE switch. Give each battery its own switch. John Grosse > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > longg(at)pjm.com > March 21, 2011 9:55 AM > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: > > Bob, > > Yesterday, the switch I used to change between normal battery power and > backup battery power died just as I was beginning my run-up. > > Glenn E. Long > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)coho.net>
Subject: HD pin crimp adapter
Date: Mar 21, 2011
Bob, I have just received your adapter for the HD pin crimp, and need guidance as to how to use it. I have the pre-calibrated d-sub crimper from you, an Astro, and a Buchanan crimper. I can send a photo of the three if it would help, but would need your email address for that. Yours, Kenneth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: HD pin crimp adapter
At 12:44 PM 3/21/2011, you wrote: > >Bob, I have just received your adapter for the HD pin crimp, and >need guidance as to how to use it. I have the pre-calibrated d-sub >crimper from you, an Astro, and a Buchanan crimper. I can send a >photo of the three if it would help, but would need your email >address for that. You unscrew the silver cap on the back side of the crimper. Under this cap you'll find a spring and a positioner for the 20AWG pins. Remove replace the 20AWG positioner with the 22HD positioner. Put the cap and spring back in place and you're ready to go with the smaller pins. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Switch Selection
At 10:55 AM 3/21/2011, you wrote: >If the Lightspeed were really well designed it would sense a loss of >power go directly to backup power and alert the driver to the fact. Refresh my memory. What's your engine/ignition setup for this airplane. Is the LSI system the only ignition system for the engine? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Switch Selection
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
Bob, I had dual LSI but removed one in favor of one MAG. So, one LSI and one mag. Thanks Glenn E. Long -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 2:28 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switch Selection At 10:55 AM 3/21/2011, you wrote: >If the Lightspeed were really well designed it would sense a loss of >power go directly to backup power and alert the driver to the fact. Refresh my memory. What's your engine/ignition setup for this airplane. Is the LSI system the only ignition system for the engine? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Switch Selection
At 04:02 PM 3/21/2011, you wrote: > >Bob, > >I had dual LSI but removed one in favor of one MAG. So, one LSI and one >mag. > >Thanks Okay, you got two ignition systems. Why the great concerns for keeping the electronic one running? You cited potential for a lot of things to get unhooked or otherwise become unusable. My best advice is keep it as simple as possible and take good care of it. Sometimes the best way to drive a nail is with a hammer. No batteries, no moving parts, works in the worst of weather conditions and it will still be functional after we're all gone. I just cleaned up one of dad's old hammers. Brightened up the head, sanded and oiled the handle and put a piece of heat shrink over it to tie down the splinters . . . good for another 60 years. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Falstad <bobair(at)me.com>
Subject: Bad Tach Readings - Grand Rapids EIS 4000
Date: Mar 22, 2011
Hi, I have just started flying my GlaStar again after installing a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 and single screen Horizon HX. I've wired my traditional mag P-leads to tach input 1 (left mag) and tach input 2 (right mag). At first, the "left" mag and "both" positions showed normal, reasonable, stable RPM indications. During my runup at 1700 RPM, the "right" mag would fluctuate wildly between 3200 - 3400 RPM. After talking with Greg at GRT, I switched the inputs and the problem jumped over to the left mag. I then switched the inputs back and, again at Greg's suggestion, increased the resistor values on the right mag/input 2 to 47K Ohms and then to 100K Ohms. With the 100K Ohm resistor in place of the original 27K Ohm resistor, the problem abated somewhat. On runup, the right mag would show a believable RPM for a couple of seconds and then would fluctuate between 1200 - 1400 RPM. The pulse per revolution and mag sensitivity settings in the EIS are "1" and "low", respectively, for each mag. More recently, the left mag (and consequently, in the "both" mag position) is exhibiting the same wildly fluctuating behavior - to the point, the tach indications are useless. This occurs even though the engine is running at a constant RPM. An A&P/IA buddy of mine with extensive experience in light GA aircraft thought that maybe there was a bad ground in the P-leads so we put jumper wires from the magneto cases to the ground "forest-of-tabs". (The "hot mag" check was fine even before the jumper wires.) This damped out the RPM swings somewhat but did not eliminate the problem. (I'm using a conventional Start/Mag switch with the four shields (from each P-lead plus the shielded wire to each tach input) crimped on a common ring terminal attached to the ground lug on the switch. GRT's installation instructions say it isn't necessary to carry the shield all the way to the EIS box so I didn't.) Has anyone seen anything similar to this? Any thoughts whether it is in the wiring or in the EIS itself? Any troubleshooting steps that I can take to try to identify the root cause of the problem? Best regards Bob GlaStar N248BF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vern Little" <sprocket@vx-aviation.com>
Subject: V-Speed ADS remote AoA indicator is back in production
Date: Mar 22, 2011
Several months ago, there was a discussion about our remote AoA indicator. It had been discontinued because it was costly to support and demand was low. Recent events, including the blossoming popularity of AoA, support of our device by multiple EFIS vendors and some good old arm twisting have resulted in the reintroduction of our device. The V-Speed ADS has more than 5 years flight experience in numerous aircraft, and is supported by both Dynon and GRT Avionics. MGL is also considering support. The V-Speed ADS is a glareshield mounted remote AoA indicator that interprets a serial air data stream to present a progressive bar graph type display in a 'heads-up' type location. It also presents cruise flight information at low AoA's, such as (programmable) Vfe, Va, Vno and Vne. If you don't have an AoA probe, it can be programmed for a slow flight display of Vx, Vref, Vso and Vs1 It has an internal light sensor that automatically dims for night operation. The device comes with a 5' tefzel shielded cable, SPDT switch (for in-cockpit programming access) and a snap bushing for routing the cable. The datasheet can be downloaded from the vx-aviation.com website. Availability: Devices are in stock. Price: See website for ordering $250 including shipping anywhere in the world. Thanks to the many customers who have shown support. Thanks, Vern Little Vx Aviation www.vx-aviation.com http://vx-aviation.com/documents/VSpeed_ADS.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2011
From: Larry & Sandy Sharratt <sandlar1(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Tach Readings - Grand Rapids EIS 4000
I've had a somewhat similar experience with my GRT 4000 with a G3i electronic ignition. When I first installed the ignition, I got apparently correct tach readings up to about 2200 or so, then wildly fluctuating above that (the tach pickup came off the ignition module). After moving the tach pickup back to the L mag, the EIS readings returned to what seemed to be correct. (The G3i ignition uses the original - though modified- Slick mags on my O-320). However, now when I switch the electronic module off, the EIS drops off line completely with just a row of black squares across the display. When I turn the module back on, the EIS will come back after switching off and then back on. I know the obvious answer is to just leave the ignition module on but I would still like to know what gremlins are running back and forth inside those wires. Now that spring is returning to the frozen tundra of Minnesota, maybe I'll get a chance to pursue it. I realize the causes of our two issues are probably different, just thought I'd throw it out for discussion. Larry Sharratt Waconia MN From: Bob Falstad <bobair(at)me.com> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bad Tach Readings - Grand Rapids EIS 4000 Hi, I have just started flying my GlaStar again after installing a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 and single screen Horizon HX. I've wired my traditional mag P-leads to tach input 1 (left mag) and tach input 2 (right mag). At first, the "left" mag and "both" positions showed normal, reasonable, stable RPM indications. During my runup at 1700 RPM, the "right" mag would fluctuate wildly between 3200 - 3400 RPM. After talking with Greg at GRT, I switched the inputs and the problem jumped over to the left mag. I then switched the inputs back and, again at Greg's suggestion, increased the resistor values on the right mag/input 2 to 47K Ohms and then to 100K Ohms. With the 100K Ohm resistor in place of the original 27K Ohm resistor, the problem abated somewhat. On runup, the right mag would show a believable RPM for a couple of seconds and then would fluctuate between 1200 - 1400 RPM. The pulse per revolution and mag sensitivity settings in the EIS are "1" and "low", respectively, for each mag. More recently, the left mag (and consequently, in the "both" mag position) is exhibiting the same wildly fluctuating behavior - to the point, the tach indications are useless. This occurs even though the engine is running at a constant RPM. An A&P/IA buddy of mine with extensive experience in light GA aircraft thought that maybe there was a bad ground in the P-leads so we put jumper wires from the magneto cases to the ground "forest-of-tabs". (The "hot mag" check was fine even before the jumper wires.) This damped out the RPM swings somewhat but did not eliminate the problem. (I'm using a conventional Start/Mag switch with the four shields (from each P-lead plus the shielded wire to each tach input) crimped on a common ring terminal attached to the ground lug on the switch. GRT's installation instructions say it isn't necessary to carry the shield all the way to the EIS box so I didn't.) Has anyone seen anything similar to this? Any thoughts whether it is in the wiring or in the EIS itself? Any troubleshooting steps that I can take to try to identify the root cause of the problem? Best regards Bob GlaStar N248BF ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: apparent alternator issue
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Mar 27, 2011
I have a vp100 and single alternator, single battery, 2 EFIS chelton system similar to Z11 type wiring diagram. I'm having trouble with my alternator charging. Although I have a 50 amp load analysis (if I have everything turned on and max) I have the 60 amp alternator recommended by VAN's, but rarely use more than 30-35 continuous. Even so, I frequently get battery drain warning below 12.5 volts, and I have to conserve. But it is very inconsistent and for some unknown reason it will bounce back up above 13.5 and charge along just fine. I don't think it is the battery, because I'm not finding any problems on the starting side. But the problem does seem to be getting worse. thanks for any suggestions, ajay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335213#335213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: apparent alternator issue
From: "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Mar 28, 2011
A loose / dirty / corroded wire between alternator and regulator can easily fool the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged. Dont forget the ground straps and make sure that the alternator is solidly grounded. Easiest first step is to pull and clean all battery connections. When done, a little petrolatum on the heavy terminals will keep things shiny for a long while. Look carefully for a loose or broken connection at the small wire terminals on the alternator. Because of vibration, alternator connections often open up. Wires rarely fail in the middle unless rubbing or another form of abuse takes place. Any wire problem generally appears at the termination. You could check for excess resistance using a digital voltmeter. Intermittent problems can be tough to locate, but wiggle any suspect connection and watch for a change in resistance. It is possible that a diode within the alternator went bad, which would cut the alternator output by one third, but I doubt it because diode failure is rarely intermittent. If your wiring checks do not reveal anything, you might consider removing the alternator and taking it down to the good folks at AutoZone. With their test machine, they can do a quick free diagnosis. They didnt even ask me what car it was from. Good luck. -------- Jerry King Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335246#335246 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: apparent alternator issue
From: "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Mar 28, 2011
A loose / dirty / corroded wire between alternator and regulator can easily fool the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged. Dont forget the ground straps and make sure that the alternator is solidly grounded. Easiest first step is to pull and clean all battery connections. When done, a little petrolatum on the heavy terminals will keep things shiny for a long while. Look carefully for a loose or broken connection at the small wire terminals on the alternator. Because of vibration, alternator connections often open up. Wires rarely fail in the middle unless rubbing or another form of abuse takes place. Any wire problem generally appears at the termination. You could check for excess resistance using a digital voltmeter. Intermittent problems can be tough to locate, but wiggle any suspect connection and watch for a change in resistance. It is possible that a diode within the alternator went bad, which would cut the alternator output by one third, but I doubt it because diode failure is rarely intermittent. If your wiring checks do not reveal anything, you might consider removing the alternator and taking it down to the good folks at AutoZone. With their test machine, they can do a quick free diagnosis. They didnt even ask me what car it was from. Good luck. -------- Jerry King Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335247#335247 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: apparent alternator issue
At 08:57 PM 3/27/2011, you wrote: > >I have a vp100 and single alternator, single battery, 2 EFIS chelton >system similar to Z11 type wiring diagram I have the 60 amp alternator recommended by VAN's, but rarely use more than 30-35 continuous. Even so, I frequently get battery drain warning below 12.5 volts, and I have to conserve. But it is very inconsistent and for some unknown reason it will bounce back up above 13.5 and charge along just fine. Your normal bus voltage should be on the order of 14.2 to 14.6 volts. I don't think it is the battery, because I'm not finding any problems on the starting side. But the problem does seem to be getting worse. Voltage issues while in flight are never a battery issue. If your alternator has a built in regulator, then it's a very high probability of being bad. The fact that your 'normal' bus voltage is so low suggests that it may have had some kind of problem right out of the box. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: apparent alternator issue
At 08:57 PM 3/27/2011, you wrote: > >I have a vp100 and single alternator, single battery, 2 EFIS chelton >system similar to Z11 type wiring diagram. > >I'm having trouble with my alternator charging. Although I have a >50 amp load analysis (if I have everything turned on and max) I have >the 60 amp alternator recommended by VAN's, but rarely use more than >30-35 continuous. When you say "alternator recommended by Van's" is this the 60A PlanePower product? When working with alternators having built-in regulators, there's not much you can do to troubleshoot a voltage variation except to monitor the b-lead terminal with a test voltmeter to see if readings at the b-lead agree with readings on the panel displays. If you have two panel displays and they agree to within .5 volts of the b-lead terminal, then your alternator is probably in need of attention. If the b-lead says where it belongs, 14.2 or a little better, then there's a wiring problem. A wiring problem that drops 2 volts at 30+ amps is going to dissipate some heat. If something 'loose' is your root cause, then it's likely to have a somewhat cooked appearance. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vern Little" <sprocket@vx-aviation.com>
Subject: New Avionics Modules from Vx Aviation
Date: Mar 29, 2011
Last week, we discussed the re-introduction of our remote Angle-of-Attack indicator, discussed at length on the list several months ago. Today, we have two new devices that may spark an interest: ================= RS-232C Buffer Board: ================= Vx Aviation today has announced the availability of the TRX-232A RS-232 buffer . Like most Vx Aviation products, this fits in a D-Sub backshell thus making it extremely compact and light. It provides either a one-to-eight fanout buffer or a dual one-to-four buffer. Primarily used for GPS systems that need to drive many other instruments or to convert the low-level outputs of portable GPS devices into compliant RS-232C level signals. Price for the TRX-232A is $100, it's $114 with a mating connector and barrel crimp pins. Full text of the Announcement: http://vx-aviation.com/documents/TRX-232A-110329.pdf ================================================ General Purpose Prototyping Board with PIC Microcontroller: ================================================ The PROTON-225 fits in a D-Sub backshell, a hallmark of most Vx Aviation products and has provisions for a PIC microcontroller for smart applications. It can be used for developing simple things like bias resistor packs for engine monitors all the way up to custom programmable devices like custom annunciator displays. For example, both DB-25 connectors can be used to form an 'inline' processor, or a row of LEDs and a transparent window can be mounted on one end to form a custom display. Price for the board only is $29, it's $39 with the connectors and backshell. Full text of the Announcement: http://vx-aviation.com/documents/PROTON-225A-110329.pdf Thanks, Vern Little Vx Aviation ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Adapting Aviation Headset to work with a PC
From: "jhausch" <jimhausch(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2011
Hello Group, I would like the noise attenuation and noise cancelling properties of an aviation headset to use with Skype on my PC. I contacted Quiet Technologies because I like the in-ear style. They referred me to RCM Headsets and the Starkey line: http://www.rcmheadsets.com/products.php?m=1 I've sent an email and am awaiting a response. I am familiar with the "roll your own" headsets threads here and on VAF, but that is generally "going the other way" (PC versions to use in aircraft) I searched and only found this thread (which, again, is the opposite of what I need) http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=54658&highlight=headset+computer I thought I'd throw this thread out there for additional ideas. I'll let you know what I learn from RCM, and, as a next step, I suppose we'll find out how well the Skype "squelch" works when paired with a good mic (I see that as the most likely next hurdle/issue) Thanks. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335400#335400 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vern Little" <sprocket@vx-aviation.com>
Subject: Re: Adapting Aviation Headset to work with a PC
Date: Mar 29, 2011
Go to here: http://www.flightsim.com/main/howto/adapter.htm Here are the recommended modifications: Use a 1K resistor rather than the 470, and eliminate the electrolytic capacitor on the far right (not necessary) Should work fine. Vern Little Vx Aviation -----Original Message----- From: jhausch Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 7:50 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Adapting Aviation Headset to work with a PC Hello Group, I would like the noise attenuation and noise cancelling properties of an aviation headset to use with Skype on my PC. I contacted Quiet Technologies because I like the in-ear style. They referred me to RCM Headsets and the Starkey line: http://www.rcmheadsets.com/products.php?m=1 I've sent an email and am awaiting a response. I am familiar with the "roll your own" headsets threads here and on VAF, but that is generally "going the other way" (PC versions to use in aircraft) I searched and only found this thread (which, again, is the opposite of what I need) http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=54658&highlight=headset+computer I thought I'd throw this thread out there for additional ideas. I'll let you know what I learn from RCM, and, as a next step, I suppose we'll find out how well the Skype "squelch" works when paired with a good mic (I see that as the most likely next hurdle/issue) Thanks. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335400#335400 ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Adapting Aviation Headset to work with a PC
From: "jhausch" <jimhausch(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2011
Very interesting. Thanks! Sorry, just for my own extra-cautious clarification - You mention that I would eliminate the cap. on the far right. So I only need the one cap. (oriented as shown), or do I eliminate both? Also, since I might be using this in a very noisy environment, a PTT might be a great idea. I Googled and found this note about aftermarket PTT buttons on the PS engineering website: How do I modify a portable Push to Talk switch to work in series with my headset? When using a standard portable PTT switch, when installed in series with the headset microphone line, there will be no audio present through the intercom until the PTT is pressed. This is because there are two switches inside the PTT switch, One shorts the TIP and the Sleeve which is what keys the radio. The other switch closes to allow the mic audio from the microphone to the ring of the PTT's mic plug, which will allow the audio to pass to the intercom.. To modify the PTT so that the mic audio is always present, the PTT must be taken apart and the switch that makes and breaks the microphone path will be closed permanently. Due the large variety of PTT, it is not possible for PS Engineering to provide details on how to accomplish this modification. PS Engineering does sell already modified PTT switches, call 865-988-9800 to order. The wording "One shorts the TIP and the Sleeve which is what keys the radio" is a little confusing. Shorts them to each other, Shorts both to V-, what? So a little more searching and I think what is being said is this: The PTT has two switches. The "sleeve" of the jack is at V-, the tip would be wired to mic V-. When the PTT is pressed mic V- is tied to battery V- via the sleeve. Simultaneously mic V+ is tied to the ring. In other words, when the switch is open they are opening V- and V+ to the mic. I guess they use this DPST action to keep all possible current paths open when the mic is not in use, and, perhaps, to guard against issues when plugging/unplugging? Do I have that right? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335440#335440 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: apparent alternator issue
From: "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Mar 29, 2011
thanks Jerry and Bob, exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for. Also thanks for the autozone tip, very much obliged, Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335471#335471 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dougshep(at)netzero.com" <dougshep(at)netzero.com>
Date: Apr 01, 2011
Subject: Coax Cable
I'm installing a Garmin GTX-327 Transponder and will need a coax cable with a 15 foot run to its antenna. According to the GTX-327 install. manual, a double shielded 50 ohm coax cable with less than 1.5db loss at 1090MHz should be used. They suggest either RG304 or RG393 and a vendor: www.ecsdirect.com Wonder if anyone knows of other sources for this cable requirement? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Coax Cable
Date: Apr 01, 2011
Put it RG400 and call it good! That's my 2 cents and what we use extensively (as do most). Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dougshep(at)netzero.com Sent: Friday, April 01, 2011 1:18 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Coax Cable I'm installing a Garmin GTX-327 Transponder and will need a coax cable with a 15 foot run to its antenna. According to the GTX-327 install. manual, a double shielded 50 ohm coax cable with less than 1.5db loss at 1090MHz should be used. They suggest either RG304 or RG393 and a vendor: www.ecsdirect.com Wonder if anyone knows of other sources for this cable requirement? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Coax Cable
At 03:10 PM 4/1/2011, you wrote: > >Put it RG400 and call it good! That's my 2 cents and what we use extensively >(as do most). Agreed. The run-o-the-mill GA pilot would be hard pressed to detect any difference in transponder performance for the increased loss. However, for the purists and the curious, I'll point out this Internet resource: http://www.timesmicrowave.com/cgi-bin/calculate.pl Using this calculator you can wade through all the possibilities. For example, RG-400 at 1090 would have to be limited to 10 feet to meet the 1.5 db target . . . actually a tad less because connectors add a bit more. Taking RG-400 out to 15 ft adds less than 1 db additional loss. A popular low loss cable for microwave is LMR400 which is available by the foot here http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=59520 The calculator shows phenomenal performance at only 0.6 db loss for the 15 ft run. I used this stuff to get real-time GPS signals down from the roof of our building to the electronics lab . . . about a 50 run with excellent performance. But then you have the problem of mating connectors to this cable. You might find someone on the 'net that can sell you pre-cut cables with connectors already installed. All things considered, the RG400 terminated with tools and connectors readily available to the OBAM aircraft builder is a really good value and unlikely to present any performance issues. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Konrad/Conny <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Specific Gravity on Batteries
Date: Apr 01, 2011
Dear E-Wizards, I recently got a small YUASA Battery (15AH or so) and it came with 2 bottles of "GILL" branded electrolyte from a friend, as he was going with a PC-680 in his bird. The Yuasa is a wet cell battery with filler caps, and it has never been filled, although it is about 15 years old. Package was never opened until I got it, same with the electrolyte. Why would I even bother with a battery like that, you may ask? A: Because if is the perfect size to start my back up generator at the hangar. So my question is this: The battery came with papers that specified an automotive electrolyte with a specific gravity of 1.285 (I believe). However, the specific gravity of the Gill electrolyte says it is 1.265, so it is a bit different then the automotive stuff. Can I use the included Gill electrolyte, or am I better off to just go to NAPA and get the automotive electrolyte? What is the main difference in operation between electrolytes with different SG's? Different charging current? Thanks all, Konrad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Specific Gravity on Batteries
At 09:43 PM 4/1/2011, you wrote: > >Dear E-Wizards, > >I recently got a small YUASA Battery (15AH or so) and it came with 2 >bottles of "GILL" branded electrolyte from a friend, as he was going >with a PC-680 in his bird. > >The Yuasa is a wet cell battery with filler caps, and it has never >been filled, although it is about 15 years old. Package was never >opened until I got it, same with the electrolyte. > >Why would I even bother with a battery like that, you may ask? A: >Because if is the perfect size to start my back up generator at the >hangar. So my question is this: > >The battery came with papers that specified an automotive electrolyte >with a specific gravity of 1.285 (I believe). > >However, the specific gravity of the Gill electrolyte says it is >1.265, so it is a bit different then the automotive stuff. > >Can I use the included Gill electrolyte, or am I better off to just go >to NAPA and get the automotive electrolyte? > >What is the main difference in operation between electrolytes with >different SG's? Different charging current? It's not a critical application so the risks are low. Assuming the battery is not subject to other vagaries of age, then the .020 difference in the electrolyte only accounts for perhaps 25% of capacity. If all you need it for is getting the engine started, then I'd go ahead with the acid you have. If there are no moisture tight seals on the cells, I suspect that there are larger questions than S.G. of the electrolyte after 15 years. I'd put the juice in and stick a battery maintainer on it for a day or so and put it in service. Bob . . . >Thanks all, Konrad > > >----- >No virus found in this message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Fordham" <fconsult(at)telus.net>
Subject: Vans Manifold Press. Sensor?
Date: Apr 01, 2011
Hi I'm working on a friends RV6 and we have a problem with a Vans Manifold pressure gauge. When power is applied the needle swings full scale. I'm suspecting the sensor, it has 4 wires coming from it pos,neg, and two to the instrument. If power is applied could anyone tell me what reading I should expect between the two wires to the instrument if I disconnect them? In the olden days I think one could have used an Ohm meter to read the sensor, not quite sure what's in that little black box in these modern times. Thanks Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Konrad/Conny <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Specific Gravity on Batteries
Date: Apr 01, 2011
Thank you Bob!!! On Apr 1, 2011, at 9:47 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > > At 09:43 PM 4/1/2011, you wrote: >> > >> >> Dear E-Wizards, >> >> I recently got a small YUASA Battery (15AH or so) and it came with 2 >> bottles of "GILL" branded electrolyte from a friend, as he was going >> with a PC-680 in his bird. >> >> The Yuasa is a wet cell battery with filler caps, and it has never >> been filled, although it is about 15 years old. Package was never >> opened until I got it, same with the electrolyte. >> >> Why would I even bother with a battery like that, you may ask? A: >> Because if is the perfect size to start my back up generator at the >> hangar. So my question is this: >> >> The battery came with papers that specified an automotive electrolyte >> with a specific gravity of 1.285 (I believe). >> >> However, the specific gravity of the Gill electrolyte says it is >> 1.265, so it is a bit different then the automotive stuff. >> >> Can I use the included Gill electrolyte, or am I better off to just >> go >> to NAPA and get the automotive electrolyte? >> >> What is the main difference in operation between electrolytes with >> different SG's? Different charging current? > > It's not a critical application so the > risks are low. Assuming the battery is not subject > to other vagaries of age, then the .020 difference > in the electrolyte only accounts for perhaps > 25% of capacity. If all you need it for is > getting the engine started, then I'd > go ahead with the acid you have. If there > are no moisture tight seals on the cells, > I suspect that there are larger questions > than S.G. of the electrolyte after 15 years. > > I'd put the juice in and stick a battery maintainer > on it for a day or so and put it in service. > > Bob . . . > > >> Thanks all, Konrad >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > > Bob . . . > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <berkut13(at)berkut13.com>
Subject: BMA Engine Pod
Date: Apr 01, 2011
I=99m looking to purchase a BMA engine pod (sensors optional). If you have one or know someone who does, please get in touch with me off-list. Thanks James Redmon www.berkut13.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Coax Cable
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Date: Apr 02, 2011
Try this-- RG+142 Its main attributes are are that it weighs 1/3 of standard RG142 (incredible) and has markedly better temperature performance, better shielding and lower loss. I sell a lot of it, some to Indy car builders. The main trick is that it uses Copper-Clad Aluminum for it's core, not copper or steel. So it's made for military aircraft and satellite use. Sample on request. -------- Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge, MA 01550 (508) 764-2072 emjones(at)charter.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335838#335838 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/rg142_172.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2011
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: Vans Manifold Press. Sensor?
I recently went through this and also suspect the sensor. The trouble shooting info with the new unit says that the 2 instrument wires should have about 3 ohms. Mine was open. John Morgensen On 4/1/2011 10:02 PM, Chris Fordham wrote: > */Hi/* > */ I'm working on a friends RV6 and we have a problem with a Vans > Manifold pressure gauge. When power is applied the needle swings full > scale. I'm suspecting the sensor, it has 4 wires coming from it > pos,neg, and two to the instrument. If power is applied could anyone > tell me what reading I should expect between the two wires to the > instrument if I disconnect them? In the olden days I think one could > have used an Ohm meter to read the sensor, not quite sure what's in > that little black box in these modern times./* > *//* > */ Thanks/* > */ Chris/* ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: GPS antenna reception
Date: Apr 02, 2011
List guys=2C All this discussion on GPS coax got me to thinking. I'm pretty close to mounting the remote antenna for my Garmin GPS296. The intended location for the ant enna is on top of my instrument pod/console=2C with the reception facing upward through Lexan. My question is=3B will Lexan inhibit the GPS's antenna reception? If it does=2C I'll have to find a better location=2C possibly at the top=2C outside of the windshie ld. Thanks for your help=2C Mike Welch ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2011
Subject: Re: GPS antenna reception
From: PHILLIPS I <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Hi Mike My two GPS antenna are mounted inside the roof panel on my Europa, so they are looking through 6 plys of Bid and paint i have no problem picking up a signal, Lexan wont be a problem. Ivor On 2 April 2011 19:29, Mike Welch wrote: > List guys, > > All this discussion on GPS coax got me to thinking. I'm pretty close to > mounting > the remote antenna for my Garmin GPS296. The intended location for the > antenna > is on top of my instrument pod/console, with the reception facing upward > through > Lexan. > > My question is; *will Lexan inhibit the GPS's antenna reception?* If > it does, I'll have > to find a better location, possibly at the top, outside of the windshield. > > Thanks for your help, > Mike Welch > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: GPS antenna reception
Date: Apr 02, 2011
Mike, I have mine mounted on top of my instrument panel and it works fine. Bob Borger Sent from my iPhone On Apr 2, 2011, at 13:29, Mike Welch wrote: > List guys, > > All this discussion on GPS coax got me to thinking. I'm pretty close to mounting > the remote antenna for my Garmin GPS296. The intended location for the antenna > is on top of my instrument pod/console, with the reception facing upward through > Lexan. > > My question is; will Lexan inhibit the GPS's antenna reception? If it does, I'll have > to find a better location, possibly at the top, outside of the windshield. > > Thanks for your help, > Mike Welch > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2011
Subject: Re: GPS antenna reception
From: b d <gpabruce(at)gmail.com>
My experience is NO lexan will not limit it but you may consider mounting it at the top of your winshield to give a better unobstructed view rather than on your instrument panel. Depending on windshield . . . On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 1:37 PM, Robert Borger wrote: > Mike, > > I have mine mounted on top of my instrument panel and it works fine. > > Bob Borger > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 2, 2011, at 13:29, Mike Welch wrote: > > List guys, > > All this discussion on GPS coax got me to thinking. I'm pretty close to > mounting > the remote antenna for my Garmin GPS296. The intended location for the > antenna > is on top of my instrument pod/console, with the reception facing upward > through > Lexan. > > My question is; *will Lexan inhibit the GPS's antenna reception?* If > it does, I'll have > to find a better location, possibly at the top, outside of the windshield. > > Thanks for your help, > Mike Welch > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS antenna reception
From: "Bill & Sue" <Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk>
Date: Apr 03, 2011
Mike, If you are talking Europa (and therefore composite) panels you can mount the GPS antenna inside the panel somewhere near the top. Lexan and glass fibre are transparent to RF ( but not carbon fibre) so there is no need to have it on the outside at all. Regards Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335908#335908 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2011
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Specific Gravity on Batteries
On second thought, *IF* I were to use this battery in an airplane application instead of a generator, then what would you recommend? Would you rather use the recommended automotive electrolyte (@1.285), as a 25% dip in capacity/performance seems pretty steep by using the provided GILL juice (@1.265). I wasn't too clear on that answer. Consider this chart taken from one of many tomes on batteries; ========= Specific Gravity Readings ' =93True=94 State of Charge The specific gravity (SG) of the battery acid or electrolyte is the truest and most absolute measure of a battery=92s state of charge. The SG reading is NOT greatly or adversely affected by the load on the battery. Basically if a battery is 50% charged, it will read a specific gravity of 1.200 (see Table 1), regardless of whether the battery is on charge, being discharge or being stored. This is not the case for voltage readings. Table 1. SG vs. Voltage % Charged Specific Gravity 100% 1.255 ' 1.275 75% 1.215 ' 1.235 50% 1.180 ' 1.200 25% 1.155 - 1.165 0% 1.110 - 1.130 Notice that here is a 'range' of values that can represent state of charge for any particular battery with a delta of 20 points out of 1300. Other books may differ to some degree . . . for example: Specific gravity does, of course, vary with temperature and the quantity of electrolyte in a cell. When the electrolyte is near the low-level mark, the specific gravity is higher than nominal and drops as water is added to the cell to bring the electrolyte to the full level. The volume of electrolyte expands as temperature rises and contracts as temperature drops, therefore affecting the density or specific gravity reading. As the volume of electrolyte expands, the readings are lowered and, conversely, specific gravity increases with colder temperatures. The specific gravity for a given battery is determined by the application it will be used in, taking into account operating temperature and battery life. Typical specific gravities for certain applications are shown in Table 1. Emacs! The sum total of all information about batteries in general will not help us much for your situation. We are not privy to design goals and design characteristics of the battery that was originally paired with the acid you have, nor the acid that was paired with the battery you have. My "25%" observation was based on a particular offering of data from the 'net but it may not be relevant to your particular acid/battery pair. The point I intended to make was this. Given the low proposed, low criticality application for this particular battery . . . combined with now good knowledge of the battery's condition after so long in storage, there was no compelling reason not to use the acid you have with the battery you have. The amount of GILL juice I got with this battery seems to be more then enough to fill many batteries of this size, so instead of opening it, why not simply get a smaller amount of automotive 1.285 instead? It's your experiment. I have no basis to suggest that one will be observably 'better' than the other . . . or that the battery is even capable of delivering minimal performance for the application proposed. Put the juice in, top the critter off, and load/cap check it. If the numbers are disappointing, deep cycle it a couple of times and they MIGHT improve. Besides difference in output, are there any differences in current and/ or voltage at which you would charge batteries with differing SG's? I do own a "BatteryMinder" model 12248, made by VDC Electronics which allows various settings of battery type: Gel, Flooded, AGM (although I do not know which voltages each setting represents), ...as well as either a 2, 4 or 8 ampere charging current. Consider that when you put any battery into service the charging voltage is what the charging voltage is. The charging current may be as much as the rating for the alternator. The idea that one can get 'better service' from any battery by charging/maintaining it with a device having lots of bells-and-whistles is not supported by a review of in-service conditions. Super-whippy battery chargers are much like Windows. There are a few features that everybody uses that cover their needs 95% of the time. All the rest is 'cool' . . . but . . . Battery minders having a bulk-charge, top-off, and terminated by a sustaining mode just above 13 volts is, for all practical purposes, good for 95% of our needs. If you'd like to explore battery design and performance issues in more detail, check out the offerings by "Mr. Battery" hisself . . . Mr. Isidor Buchmann who founded http://www.cadex.com/ Talk about bells and whistles! Cadex products are indeed finely tuned to specific battery technologies used in demanding situation where costs of ownership a fleet of battery users can be significantly influenced by using the right tools and processes for battery maintenance. Isador has shared a great deal about the inner secrets of batteries at: http://batteryuniversity.com/ Having offered all this 'good stuff' on batteries, it's time to "burst the bubble." When a really good battery designer teams with a really good battery manufacturer they'll tell you lots of good things they've learned about how to get the most from their product. Their advice will be based on hours of laboratory experiments. Then the after-market folks will jump in with battery maintenance accessories with lots of bells-and-whistles to compliment those tests. But a big disconnect occurs when we take all this data on deeply cycled batteries tested in laboratory environments and put them on our garden tractors . . . or airplanes. The ideal engine cranking battery is NEVER deep cycled. Once the engine taps 5% of capacity to get going, the engine driven power source picks up the loads and replaces the 5% taxation of capacity. Then we depart from 'ideal' by walking away leaving the master switch on . . . for two weeks. Our charging voltage and recharge current values are NEVER in concert with those laboratory ideas. Then, perhaps we suffer an alternator out-event and for the first time since the battery was installed. The pilot has to consider . . . . Hmmmm . . . wonder what the CAPACITY of that battery is? How does THAT condition stack up with things I'd like to have working for then next few hours? This is why I've suggested for years that all the smart chargers in the world attached to the world's finest battery products IS NOT a replacement for the owner/ operator KNOWING what the battery capacity is . . . when and if that knowledge is important (poking holes in clouds or long trips over unfriendly terrain at night). I certainly do appreciate your ongoing input and expertise about anything electric on the Matronics list!!! My pleasure sir. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS antenna reception
Date: Apr 04, 2011
From: <longg(at)pjm.com>
Mike, The below works well on my ship. I couldn't find a suitable shelf at Wal-Mart, so I made one. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_hkAHk0Xu6wo/SHOnYZwaZwI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/RsdsLydOu7 0/s1600-h/IMG_1171.JPG Glenn E. Long -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill & Sue Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 5:27 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: GPS antenna reception Mike, If you are talking Europa (and therefore composite) panels you can mount the GPS antenna inside the panel somewhere near the top. Lexan and glass fibre are transparent to RF ( but not carbon fibre) so there is no need to have it on the outside at all. Regards Bill Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335908#335908 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: GPS antenna reception
Date: Apr 04, 2011
> Mike=2C > > The below works well on my ship. I couldn't find a suitable shelf at > Wal-Mart=2C so I made one. > > http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_hkAHk0Xu6wo/SHOnYZwaZwI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/RsdsLydOu7 > 0/s1600-h/IMG_1171.JPG > > Glenn E. Long Hi Glenn=2C Your link for a photo didn't come in. ?? I'm building a Kolb MkIII. It has a VERRRY long windscreen (approx 65"). (see old photo.....the plane is almost fini shed now) The intended location that I had planned for the GPS antenna was on top o f my radio console/instrument pod....at the forward portion=2C mounted on the pod's fi berglass cover. This location would place the antenna at an unobstructed spot=2C forward of my view. Thanks to all the replied to my question!! 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March 06, 2011 - Present

AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-kg