AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-lj
September 22, 2012 - October 06, 2012
>>
>> On 20/09/2012 12:00 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> On the ACK E-04 it is 10 yrs on lithium main, remote and alarm
>>> batteries. 5 yrs on remote alkaline if you go that route.
>>>
>>> On 9/19/2012 3:34 PM, Ed Holyoke wrote:
>>>> Don't forget the battery in the remote. It has an expiration of 8yrs,
>>>> lithium or 4yrs, alkaline if I remember correctly. If you don't have a
>>>> record of what battery was installed in the remote and when, you
>>>> should replace it and record the due date in your logbook.
>>>>
>>>> Pax,
>>>>
>>>> Ed Holyoke
>>>> A&P
>>>>
>>>> On 9/19/2012 1:39 PM, bob noffs wrote:
>>>>> thanks all,
>>>>> i did change the duracell batteries in my elt today. the elt mfgr
>>>>> specifies duracell. the new set of d batteries have an expiration
>>>>> date of 2022!. don't think i will wait 10 yrs.
>>>>> bob noffs
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 7:28 AM, Bill Watson >>>> > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> My old ELT (10 years old) required new batteries every 24 months.
>>>>>
>>>>> My new ACK 406Mh ELT specifies 5 years for the lithium batteries.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 9/19/2012 7:47 AM, R. curtis wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> starting on my first annual.
>>>>>> do i remember correctly........the d batteries in the elt
>>>>>> must be changed every year?
>>>>>> thanks bob noffs
>>>>>> **
>>>>>> Normally the manufacturer specifies that you use date
>>>>>> coded alkaline batteries, and they are to be changed before
>>>>>> the end of the coded period. They do not have to be changed
>>>>>> each year.
>>>>>> Roger
>>>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
| From: | s <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
Hello listers,
Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A breaker
(or is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the
same size as the fuse link.
I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and telling him
I was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or maybe
Z17) in my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator
going in over voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone
know of anyone who's experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator?
Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring is more
complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16 way?
Sacha
Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there
Sicily, Italy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
Actually the 22ga wire is perfectly adequate to trip the 5A breaker. The
purpose of the fuse link is to protect the 18ga wire between the buss and
the breaker should it inadvertently short to ground. So the drawing is
correct as shown.
The "normal" failure might be to "stop working" i.e. shut down, but what
about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure where an OV
occurs?? Not familiar with it happening, but it might, it is electronics
after all ?
Bob McC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of s
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 5:53 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax
generators?
>
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A
breaker (or
> is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the
same size as
> the fuse link.
>
> I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and
telling him I
> was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or
maybe Z17) in
> my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator
going in over
> voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone know of
anyone who's
> experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator?
>
> Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring
is more
> complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16
way?
>
> Sacha
> Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there
> Sicily, Italy
>
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
> _-
> ====================================================
> ======
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I flew one of those flights where you just KNEW we already had two strikes. And
gosh I learned a lot.
I took off from Furnace Creek into a rapidly approaching (astonishing!) black sandstorm.
But the sandstorm quickly outran and engulfed us. Made a 180 out of
the sandstorm to find I had no airspeed indicator. The winds were ferocious and
making Santa Monica with fuel onboard was dicey, KWJF Fox Field (our normal
fuel stop) was closed due to winds. So we stopped in Aqua Dulce...using the stall
warning.
We tried to clear the pitot tube with a coat-hangar wire but no dice. We had inadequate
tools. Next day the mechanic cleared it. Analysis--Mud dauber wasp.
Jeeeze....the thing you learn and shouldn't do again.
But three points: Cover the pitot tube when parked--always. Unless you have one
of those airspeed-operated flapper valves.
A way of ram-rodding the tube would be a step forward in design. But the problem
is usually only discovered after getting airborne. So glancing at the ASI during
the takeoff run will be in my scan, even if Cessnas easily fly themselves
off the ground.
Some bug biologist-psychologist should invent a neat way to keep out dauber wasps.
It would make a good science project. Mud daubers bring down heavy iron too.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383801#383801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
Bob,
I'm interested, but I'm unwilling to take on any more projects at
this time. Maybe a couple of years down the road. When I decide to
take on another project I'll drop you a note.
Just a couple of quick questions How many amps at what voltage would be
available and what would you imagine the overall dimensions to be?
I'll keep my eyes out for stainless steel electrical properties and drop
you a note if I see anything that might be useful.
> So, perhaps there's an opportunity for somebody
> out there with some metal working skills and
> a curious nature. I'd be willing to stroke
> the electronics if some one of you could acquire,
> bend and weld alloys of steel that might make
> good heaters cum pitot tube.
>
> It would be interesting to see if this ball
> would at least bounce. Could we learn to "build
> the better pitot tube" for MUCH less than
> $600?
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
| From: | rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us |
Hi Eric
Thx. for sharing your experience.
You mentioned "Unless you have one of those airspeed-operated
flapper valves".
I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 ragwing for 19 years. Twice I got mud dapper
nest in the Pitot tube.
The second time it happened, the wind was howling and I noticed right
after take off, so landed and cleared it. When putting tools away and a
little worried the plane may roll in a pretty big gust (even though I had
wheel chocks in place), I just happened to notice that the airspeed
actuated flapper Pitot cover was fully opened, hmm. Then a few seconds
later I observed a dapper wasp somehow manage in this wicked gusty wind
to land on and crawl inside!
I replaced flapper with a cover and never had another problem.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
We have a bad problem with the mud daubers around here. If I leave an
air tool outside for a day, they find it, and build in the inlet. Got
me to thinking, Has anyone had problems with them building in static
intake ports, fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators.
Starting to think my preflight should include all the above.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 09/22/2012 07:13 PM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
>
> Hi Eric
>
> Thx. for sharing your experience.
>
> You mentioned "Unless you have one of those airspeed-operated flapper
> valves".
>
> I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 ragwing for 19 years. Twice I got mud dapper
> nest in the Pitot tube.
>
> The second time it happened, the wind was howling and I noticed right
> after take off, so landed and cleared it. When putting tools away and
> a little worried the plane may roll in a pretty big gust (even though
> I had wheel chocks in place), I just happened to notice that the
> airspeed actuated flapper Pitot cover was fully opened, hmm. Then a
> few seconds later I observed a dapper wasp somehow manage in this
> wicked gusty wind to land on and crawl inside!
>
> I replaced flapper with a cover and never had another problem.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 9/22/2012 8:42 PM, rayj wrote:
> Has anyone had problems with them building in static intake ports,
> fuel vents on gas caps, or the drains on collators.
Yes, multiple times I've had bugs build a nest in my fuel drains
and vents. My cheap solution:
Go to Walmart and buy a 100 pack of bright orange "fuzzy sticks" for
$0.99. Used to be commonly known as "pipe cleaners". You can find them
in the fabric and crafts section.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kids-Craft-100pk-Fuzzy-Sticks-Neon/19525338
Cut off a 4 inch section. Fold in half, then on each leg halfway up
fold outward.
You end up with something shaped like this: _/\_
Stick the "V" end up in the hole in the fuel drain, gascolator, fuel
vent, etc, with the legs sticking out to the side.
Remove before flight, but in theory air would be able to pass if you
accidentally left them in the fuel vent.
Been doing this for a few years now and no more bug problem in the fuel
drains.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
| From: | U <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Bob,
I almost didn't mention it as I thought it was "obviously wrongh but now I'm glad
I did as I learnt something! (Is there a detailed discussion of how each Z
figure works somewhere that beginners can read?). Still wondering about the diff
between the Z16 and Z17 alternator disconnect wiring.
On 23/set/2012, at 00:50, Bob McCallum wrote:
>
> Actually the 22ga wire is perfectly adequate to trip the 5A breaker. The
> purpose of the fuse link is to protect the 18ga wire between the buss and
> the breaker should it inadvertently short to ground. So the drawing is
> correct as shown.
> The "normal" failure might be to "stop working" i.e. shut down, but what
> about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure where an OV
> occurs?? Not familiar with it happening, but it might, it is electronics
> after all ?
>
> Bob McC
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of s
>> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 5:53 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax
> generators?
>>
>>
>> Hello listers,
>>
>> Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between the 5A
> breaker (or
>> is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG not 22AWG since its the
> same size as
>> the fuse link.
>>
>> I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and
> telling him I
>> was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay (as per Z16 or
> maybe Z17) in
>> my electrical system. He said that he's never heard of a Ducati regulator
> going in over
>> voltage, he says they usually just stop working. Does anyone know of
> anyone who's
>> experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator?
>>
>> Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect wiring
> is more
>> complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of doing it the Z16
> way?
>>
>> Sacha
>> Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there
>> Sicily, Italy
>>
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>> _-
>> ====================================================
>> ======
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> |
| Subject: | ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator |
mount...
Michael,
Since nobody has responded yet...I will offer my .02
It is my understanding that products like ACF-50 are used to prevent
oxidation/corrosion from developing. If the part is already corroded, I
would suggest removing the corrosion and then use the ACF-50 to prevent it
from returning anytime soon. You may also look for a electrically
conductive paste that will seal out the oxygen. There should be plenty of
electrical pathway capacity through the mounting bolts regardless.
Bevan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Burbidge
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 1:03 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and
alternator mount...
-->
When I took the old alternator mount off the engine, I noticed there was
some corrosion on the engine block under the alternator mount. My new
alternator (B&C) gets its ground through the mount. Can I use and
anti-corrosion film such as ACF-50 on the block before bolting the mount to
the engine? Or will that place resistance in the ground path for the
alternator?
Thanks,
Michael-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
Not Ducati but I had a similar John Deere regulator for a 20 amp
permanent magnet alternator fail full on.
My fault as I started the engine with a dead battery. The voltage went
high as the dead battery was not immediately ready to accept current
which is not unusual for a fully discharged AGM battery. The regulator
failed and thereafter let unregulated full alternator output through.
The regulator failed even though the overvoltage disconnect relay was
between the alternator and the regulator so the voltage must have risen
faster than the relay could open when the engine started. I credit Bob's
crowbar ovm for keeping the buss voltage clamped though and preventing
any further damage.
I guess the main point is that sometimes solid state devices can indeed
fail ON instead of OFF.
Ken
On 22/09/2012 5:52 PM, s wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: s
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Seems like there is a small misprint in Z16 v.12: the wire between
> the 5A breaker (or is it a fuse?) and the S1 switch should be 18AWG
> not 22AWG since its the same size as the fuse link.
>
> I was chatting to my favorite automotive mechanic the other day and
> telling him I was planning to include an alternator disconnect relay
> (as per Z16 or maybe Z17) in my electrical system. He said that he's
> never heard of a Ducati regulator going in over voltage, he says they
> usually just stop working. Does anyone know of anyone who's
> experienced an OV problem with the inbuilt Rotax generator?
>
> Another question: can anyone explain why the alternator disconnect
> wiring is more complex in Z16 than in Z17? What is the advantage of
> doing it the Z16 way?
>
> Sacha Rebuilding a Kitfox IV with Rotax 80hp, almost there Sicily,
> Italy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator |
mount...
| From: | Michael Burbidge <mburbidg(at)gmail.com> |
That's what I did. I cleaned off the corrosion and then put ACF-50 in between before
bolting the new mount to the block.
Sounds like that should be ok.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 23, 2012, at 1:32 AM, "B Tomm" wrote:
>
> Michael,
>
> Since nobody has responded yet...I will offer my .02
>
> It is my understanding that products like ACF-50 are used to prevent
> oxidation/corrosion from developing. If the part is already corroded, I
> would suggest removing the corrosion and then use the ACF-50 to prevent it
> from returning anytime soon. You may also look for a electrically
> conductive paste that will seal out the oxygen. There should be plenty of
> electrical pathway capacity through the mounting bolts regardless.
>
> Bevan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Burbidge
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 1:03 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and
> alternator mount...
>
> -->
>
> When I took the old alternator mount off the engine, I noticed there was
> some corrosion on the engine block under the alternator mount. My new
> alternator (B&C) gets its ground through the mount. Can I use and
> anti-corrosion film such as ACF-50 on the block before bolting the mount to
> the engine? Or will that place resistance in the ground path for the
> alternator?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Start Solenoid Orientation |
Group,
I'm preparing some electrical hardware for my RV7 & this question came up:
How should I orient the start solenoid, terminals up or down? I'm curious
how G loading will affect the plunger.
I'm planning to use this solenoid
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Standard/Starter_Solenoid/SISS581.html
(a generic automotive type) because it is inexpensive & should be easily
found in the future.
In the picture at the above link, the solenoid appears "terminals down". Is
that how it should be mounted in the airframe? In that orientation, any
positive G loading will try to keep the contacts apart or open which is what
I want. (don't want starter to inadvertently engage at the bottom of a hard
pull).
I think that the return spring in this device is pretty strong therefore it
would take more than 6 Gs to get it to move but I thought I would pose the
question to the group.
Also, this solenoid has an "I" terminal which gets B+ when the solenoid is
energized. (I think it is used to bypass an ignition ballast resistor in
older cars) Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring inside this device?
I'm curious how this "I" terminal is wired internally. ( I googled for
about 20 minutes but could not find any info on this, which I though was odd
)
So, I'm looking specifically for feedback on the following 2 questions:
1. applicability of this device for cranking a Lycoming
2. mounting orientation
3. internal schematic
TIA,
Jeff Luckey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator |
mount...
At 03:03 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
When I took the old alternator mount off the engine, I noticed there
was some corrosion on the engine block under the alternator mount. My
new alternator (B&C) gets its ground through the mount. Can I use and
anti-corrosion film such as ACF-50 on the block before bolting the
mount to the engine? Or will that place resistance in the ground path
for the alternator?
The only way to you add resistance to the joint with such
treatments is when the higher resistance contaminant is
as hard or harder than base materials (alternator bracket
and engine crankcase).
For example, we've discussed the manner in which anti-corrosion
dopes work in crimped terminals on aluminum wire. A wire
grip and wire strands might appear to be full of dope but
after the crimp, the PRESSURES applied to deform metal parts
with intent to create gas-tight junctures is so much
higher the compression strength of the 'contaminant' that
it's extruded out of spaces where the metal hits the road.
As you transition out of those metal upset spaces, the
remaining dopant is squished out and remains in the voids
becomes a barrier to moisture laden air.
Back in my two-way-radio-days we used to pack coax cable
connectors on tower joints with Dow Corning DC-4, a
silicone grease the consistency of wheel-bearing grease.
The connectors were then wrapped with 3+ layers of
plastic tape (which would only stick to itself due
to slickness of the coax and connectors underneath!),
Such joints opened years later might have the tape
nearly falling off due to UV and weather effects but
the joints inside were as-new pristine.
Suitable dopant used on the brightly cleaned and ready to mate
surfaces of your alternator bracket and engine is
incapable of raising joint resistance where adequate
metal-to-metal contact and pressures are achieved.
Remnants of the dopant not extruded out of the
joint remain in non-contact areas and provide the
desired barrier for ingress of moisture.
There's a host of suitable materials. Electronic
grade RTV (no corrosive type) comes to mind as a
material with high operating temperatures but soft
enough not to 'glue' things together. Chemical
conversion coatings will only protect a surface and
have no ability to fill gaps and preclude moisture
incursion. You use those chemical conversion before
assembly then use gap-filing dopants on top of that
for the golden joint.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What crimper to use for B&C alternator field |
terminals...
At 03:06 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
>
>Does anyone know what kind of crimper I use for the terminals used
>on the field wire for the B&C alternators? Does one of the crimpers
>from B&C work? Which one?
>
>Thanks,
>Michael-
Those are b-crimp terminals
http://tinyurl.com/8j73sbp
http://tinyurl.com/8hf6mo9
applied with a tool like the one shown
from B&C
I discovered this tool on eBay which appears
to be the right one but there's not enough
details in the ad to be sure.
http://tinyurl.com/8hn8vxe
I've ordered one for evaluation and will
report my findings here on the List.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed |
and fail?
At 04:08 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
>
>Bill,
>
>Search "switches with faston tabs" in the AeroElectric archives.
>They discuss the discoloration of the faston insulation as the
>result of switch failure. Time frame of sept 08.
Yes . . . there was a 'rash' of failures manifesting
in 'smoked joints' that started with loose rivets on
the Carling switches. This prompted a lot of discussion
and failure-analysis/tear-downs back about that
time. Something to keep in mind as folks are unhappily
blessed with such events.
Look for a the loci of failure . . . sorta like a
arson investigation. See which parts got hottest.
These usually point to the area off poor connection
where the degradation of the joints began. Several
examples of over-heating in poor conduction areas
are explored here:
http://tinyurl.com/8d63v8x
http://tinyurl.com/8zzkfbb
http://tinyurl.com/8zzkfbb
Whether bolting alternator brackets to crank-cases
or keeping all the connections tight through
a switch, the path to failure is the same. Increase
in resistance increases heating and VOLTAGE DROP
across a joint These two antagonists team up
regeneratively to damage and perhaps fail the
joint.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 06:58 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
> I'm interested, but I'm unwilling to take on any more projects
> at this time. Maybe a couple of years down the road. When I
> decide to take on another project I'll drop you a note.
>
>Just a couple of quick questions How many amps at what voltage would
>be available and what would you imagine the overall dimensions to be?
>
>I'll keep my eyes out for stainless steel electrical properties and
>drop you a note if I see anything that might be useful.
Good. I've got about 100 back-burner projects, some
of which get tid-bits of useful information added
from time to time. It's that expansion of situational
awareness that contributes to understanding of the
whole . . . holler if you get either inspired or
motivated . . . and thanks for the offer.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
>
>Stick the "V" end up in the hole in the fuel drain, gascolator, fuel
>vent, etc, with the legs sticking out to the side.
>
>Remove before flight, but in theory air would be able to pass if you
>accidentally left them in the fuel vent.
>
>Been doing this for a few years now and no more bug problem in the
>fuel drains.
An elegant solution Dj . . . how about some photos
of these critters in place. Let's do a little one-pager
for the AEC website archives.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | ACF-50 Anti-corrosion between block and alternator |
mount...
At 03:32 AM 9/23/2012, you wrote:
>
>Michael,
>
>Since nobody has responded yet...I will offer my .02
>
>It is my understanding that products like ACF-50 are used to prevent
>oxidation/corrosion from developing. If the part is already corroded, I
>would suggest removing the corrosion and then use the ACF-50 to prevent it
>from returning anytime soon. You may also look for a electrically
>conductive paste that will seal out the oxygen. There should be plenty of
>electrical pathway capacity through the mounting bolts regardless.
>
>Bevan
Bingo! You get the gold star for this topic
my friend. The paste or "dopant" need not be
conductive for reasons I cited in the other posting.
But their function is necessary to joint longevity
and goes beyond repairs and protection of surfaces.
Chemical treatment thicknesses are measured in
diameters of molecules. Gap fillers have a much
larger and equally important role to play . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Start Solenoid Orientation |
At 12:02 PM 9/23/2012, you wrote:
Group,
I'm preparing some electrical hardware for my RV7 & this question came up:
How should I orient the start solenoid, terminals up or down? I'm
curious how G loading will affect the plunger.
I'm planning to use this solenoid
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Standard/Starter_Solenoid/SISS581.html
(a generic automotive type) because it is inexpensive & should be
easily found in the future.
In the picture at the above link, the solenoid appears "terminals
down". Is that how it should be mounted in the airframe? In that
orientation, any positive G loading will try to keep the contacts
apart or open which is what I want. (don't want starter to
inadvertently engage at the bottom of a hard pull).
I think that the return spring in this device is pretty strong
therefore it would take more than 6 Gs to get it to move but I
thought I would pose the question to the group.
Exactly. The g-load closing of starter contactors
is one of those hanagar myths that has been around
for a very long time . . . and repeated often enough
it morphs into fact.
That contactor mounted on the firewall orients the
the terminals forward. A study of these pieces and
parts http://tinyurl.com/96wy5mq shows that the
contact bar is pushed against the insulated lid
which retains the terminals. G-forces tending to
close the contacts in this orientation would be
achieved only if you flew into a mountainside.
When oriented on a horizontal surface, you'd have
to be in a wing-stripping push-over to close
the contacts.
I was working the B&C booth at OSH when one of the
air-show famous showed up to buy a new starter and
a starter contactor. After completing a performance
it was discovered that his starter ring gear was
trashed and the pinion on the starter damaged. The
starter contactor was "stuck shut" which common
wisdom of excited moment suggest was victim of
daring-do g-loads.
I didn't get to see the as-installed carcasses
nor were we asked to do autopsies on the damaged
parts.
After some reflection in following months I
concluded that he most likely suffered a stuck
contactor at engine start up. But given the cockpit
noise of these hi-performance machines and attention
to upcoming demands on pilotage, the event went
unnoticed. He probably flew his routine with a
starter engaged and running.
Also, this solenoid has an "I" terminal which gets B+ when the
solenoid is energized. (I think it is used to bypass an ignition
ballast resistor in older cars) Does anyone have a schematic of the
wiring inside this device? I'm curious how this "I" terminal is
wired internally. ( I googled for about 20 minutes but could not
find any info on this, which I though was odd )
You're correct. This feature isn't used in cars
with electronic ignition but would still be useful
on a '57 Chevy. Few cognizant enthusiasts today
are even aware of this feature or its significance.
There are two popular form factors for this contactor.
http://tinyurl.com/8my46tv
There's a number of I-terminal references in this
document
http://tinyurl.com/9looejm
So, I'm looking specifically for feedback on the following 2 questions:
applicability of this device for cranking a Lycoming
Works good, lasts a long time
mounting orientation
Doesn't really matter much but you'd have to
go out of your way to mount it such that
flight g-loads tended to close contacts. This
is unlike popular starter contactors of
yesteryear
http://tinyurl.com/8fwygp4
which featured large area, low pressure contacts
and massive solenoid armatures. Even in the
"continuous duty" versions were not well suited
to high-inrush duty of spinning up cranking motors.
That's the best we had in 1960 but have not been
seen in that service for many decades. But even
these parts are exceedingly unlike to get closed
under g-loads of flight. Now, there WAS a good
reason for mounting them upside down on the firewall
but that was for moisture reasons . . . that's
another story of a CFD and hat-dance carried out
at the Cessna Single Engine facility about 1980.
internal schematic
See figure 11-21 in the 'Connection. Functionally
accurate. The "I" terminal in modern incarnations
of a starter contactor is bridged in one stroke with
the main terminals of the device. In this
picture http://tinyurl.com/96wy5mq the "thin and
light moving contacts" are propped up on a spring
strut at right angles to the main current pathway.
The end of this strut contacts the "I" terminal
simultaneously with closure of the main terminals.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
At 11:18 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
Thanks Bob,
I almost didn't mention it as I thought it was
"obviously wrongh but now I'm glad I did as I
learnt something! (Is there a detailed
discussion of how each Z figure works somewhere
that beginners can read?). Still wondering about
the diff between the Z16 and Z17 alternator disconnect wiring.
Just variations on a theme. Primary design
goal is to achieve absolute control over energy
from the alternator as seen by the rest of the
airplane. Opening the DC pathway out of the
rectifier-regulator does that. Opening the AC
power into the regulator does too.
AC is generally easier to control than DC for
considerations of contact arcing. But given
the low duty cycle of stressful events in these
systems, either will do fine and last a long
time.
As Ken noted, the RR can be placed at risk for
high rpm ops without having the battery connected.
So while the control schemes presented in Z-16/17
are golden for the rest of the airplane, Z-17
carries the protection further back toward the
alternator and would perhaps have saved Ken's
RR from untimely demise due to the unloaded
condition.
I've not taken the time to really thrash through
the physics of a PM regulator. Seems it SHOULD
be designed to handle worst case failures including
unloaded operations. It can probably be done but
Z-17 is a work-around until the golden PM rectifier
regulator comes along.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Yesterday's Project - Show & Tell |
How about a little show-and-tell. I'm not sure that the embedded picture
will come thru, (if it does not, I will re-post)
Picture of a panel of containing a master solenoid, start solenoid, shunt,
shunt fuses & ANL current limiter for the engine battery in my RV-7.
Design Goals:
1. as compact as practical ( the mounting plate dimensions are 6" wide
x 5.5" tall)
2. easy to install - (mounts to airframe w/ 4 screws)
3. easy to work on (all of the interconnections were made while sitting
at my workbench as opposed to working in-position on the airframe)
4. easy to maintain (all fastenings are tapped into the base-plate thus
not requiring access to the back of the panel after installation for
maintenance)
Mounting:
To be mounted <~12" from the battery on the firewall
Exercise for the reader:
See if you can identify input & all outputs
Any & all questions, comments, & constructive criticisms welcome.
Jeff Luckey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Start Solenoid Orientation |
Thanks Bob for your usual thorough mini-dissertation (I don't know how you
find the time to deliver such thoughtful answers to the group but it is much
appreciated! - If you are ever in Southern California, the cervezas are on
me)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 13:28
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Start Solenoid Orientation
At 12:02 PM 9/23/2012, you wrote:
Group,
I'm preparing some electrical hardware for my RV7 & this question came up:
How should I orient the start solenoid, terminals up or down? I'm
curious how G loading will affect the plunger.
I'm planning to use this solenoid
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Standard/Starter_Solenoid/SISS581.html
(a generic automotive type) because it is inexpensive & should be
easily found in the future.
In the picture at the above link, the solenoid appears "terminals
down". Is that how it should be mounted in the airframe? In that
orientation, any positive G loading will try to keep the contacts
apart or open which is what I want. (don't want starter to
inadvertently engage at the bottom of a hard pull).
I think that the return spring in this device is pretty strong
therefore it would take more than 6 Gs to get it to move but I
thought I would pose the question to the group.
Exactly. The g-load closing of starter contactors
is one of those hanagar myths that has been around
for a very long time . . . and repeated often enough
it morphs into fact.
That contactor mounted on the firewall orients the
the terminals forward. A study of these pieces and
parts http://tinyurl.com/96wy5mq shows that the
contact bar is pushed against the insulated lid
which retains the terminals. G-forces tending to
close the contacts in this orientation would be
achieved only if you flew into a mountainside.
When oriented on a horizontal surface, you'd have
to be in a wing-stripping push-over to close
the contacts.
I was working the B&C booth at OSH when one of the
air-show famous showed up to buy a new starter and
a starter contactor. After completing a performance
it was discovered that his starter ring gear was
trashed and the pinion on the starter damaged. The
starter contactor was "stuck shut" which common
wisdom of excited moment suggest was victim of
daring-do g-loads.
I didn't get to see the as-installed carcasses
nor were we asked to do autopsies on the damaged
parts.
After some reflection in following months I
concluded that he most likely suffered a stuck
contactor at engine start up. But given the cockpit
noise of these hi-performance machines and attention
to upcoming demands on pilotage, the event went
unnoticed. He probably flew his routine with a
starter engaged and running.
Also, this solenoid has an "I" terminal which gets B+ when the
solenoid is energized. (I think it is used to bypass an ignition
ballast resistor in older cars) Does anyone have a schematic of the
wiring inside this device? I'm curious how this "I" terminal is
wired internally. ( I googled for about 20 minutes but could not
find any info on this, which I though was odd )
You're correct. This feature isn't used in cars
with electronic ignition but would still be useful
on a '57 Chevy. Few cognizant enthusiasts today
are even aware of this feature or its significance.
There are two popular form factors for this contactor.
http://tinyurl.com/8my46tv
There's a number of I-terminal references in this
document
http://tinyurl.com/9looejm
So, I'm looking specifically for feedback on the following 2 questions:
applicability of this device for cranking a Lycoming
Works good, lasts a long time
mounting orientation
Doesn't really matter much but you'd have to
go out of your way to mount it such that
flight g-loads tended to close contacts. This
is unlike popular starter contactors of
yesteryear
http://tinyurl.com/8fwygp4
which featured large area, low pressure contacts
and massive solenoid armatures. Even in the
"continuous duty" versions were not well suited
to high-inrush duty of spinning up cranking motors.
That's the best we had in 1960 but have not been
seen in that service for many decades. But even
these parts are exceedingly unlike to get closed
under g-loads of flight. Now, there WAS a good
reason for mounting them upside down on the firewall
but that was for moisture reasons . . . that's
another story of a CFD and hat-dance carried out
at the Cessna Single Engine facility about 1980.
internal schematic
See figure 11-21 in the 'Connection. Functionally
accurate. The "I" terminal in modern incarnations
of a starter contactor is bridged in one stroke with
the main terminals of the device. In this
picture http://tinyurl.com/96wy5mq the "thin and
light moving contacts" are propped up on a spring
strut at right angles to the main current pathway.
The end of this strut contacts the "I" terminal
simultaneously with closure of the main terminals.
Bob . . .
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 9/23/2012 2:07 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> An elegant solution Dj . . . how about some photos
> of these critters in place. Let's do a little one-pager
> for the AEC website archives.
>
Hi Bob,
I did a quick little write-up on my website at:
http://deej.net/aviation/bug-plug/
Feel free to use the pictures and info on that page if you want to
put something up on the AEC site.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGent1224(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
Can you convert the document to PDF format so it can be easily saved
Thanks,
Dick
In a message dated 9/23/2012 7:11:01 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
deej(at)deej.net writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill
On 9/23/2012 2:07 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> An elegant solution Dj . . . how about some photos
> of these critters in place. Let's do a little one-pager
> for the AEC website archives.
>
Hi Bob,
I did a quick little write-up on my website at:
http://deej.net/aviation/bug-plug/
Feel free to use the pictures and info on that page if you want to
put something up on the AEC site.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
I have Firefox, and am not sure how to do it with other browsers,
but it allows me to download and save the page directly as it is
in two steps.
First, when on the page, select "File" then "Save Page As...",
and select the location where you want to put it. It will
sutomatically save the text and html code as an htm file.
Second step, go back to the online page, select ANY image, RIGHT
click on it and select "Download All Images". Firefox will pick
the folder that you last saved to by default, which is probably
the one where you put the htm file, and download all the images
there as well.
To view it, simply click on the htm file on your computer and it
will load offline in your browser just as the original page did.
Harley
-----------------------------------------------------------------
On 9/23/2012 8:40 PM, RGent1224(at)aol.com wrote:
> Can you convert the document to PDF format so it can be easily
> saved
> Thanks,
> Dick
> In a message dated 9/23/2012 7:11:01 P.M. Central Daylight
> Time, deej(at)deej.net writes:
>
>
>
> On 9/23/2012 2:07 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> >
> > An elegant solution Dj . . . how about some photos
> > of these critters in place. Let's do a little one-pager
> > for the AEC website archives.
> >
>
> Hi Bob,
> I did a quick little write-up on my website at:
>
> http://deej.net/aviation/bug-plug/
>
> Feel free to use the pictures and info on that page if
> you want to
> put something up on the AEC site.
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV
> Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Glastar Flyer N866RH - = Use ilities ay -
> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - List Contribution Web
> Site p;
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Date: 09/23/12
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
Mud dauber wasps are the bane of small holes everywhere. I want to suggest that
an enterprising individual do the following long-term experiment (Actually, you
might try searching the USPTO first):
Let's see what attracts mud dauber wasps. Do many experiments with enough time
to allow the wasps to build nests (and taking the weather into account.):
1) Drill a grid of different size holes in a board. Mount the board in a location
know for having a known problem with the wasps. Do the WMDs (Wasps, Mud Dauber)
prefer a hole size? Log the result.
2) Repeat with a spectrum of different colors. Do the WMDs prefer a color? How
about in the UV? Log the result.
3) Repeat with various contrasting patterns around the holes (e.g. starburst, concentric
circles, snowflake, spirals, flower petals, angry jagged shapes...whatever
you can think of). Log the result.
4) Put a colored LED behind a series of the same size holes. Log the result.
5) Put a blinking LED behind a series of the same size holes. Try various colors.
Log the result.
6) Keep going until you find a solution.
7) Patent it. "Method of Preventing Aircraft Pitot Tube Obstruction by Mud Dauber
Wasp."
8) Pick up your Nobel prize in Stockholm.
9) Your MacArthur Genius Prize will be waiting when you return home.
Okay, perhaps that is going too far. But the airlines and pitot tube makers would
be very happy to pay for any workable results. Remember, every jet engine you
see has that curly snake on the nose cone. This reliably prevents birds from
nesting in the inlet. A bird will never come near anything that (in its tiny
bird brain) might possibly be a snake. I put a rubber snake on my rear deck which
absolutely keeps bird and their mess away.
The goal is to find something in the WMDs brain that works similarly. There are
myriad odd insect habits. Perhaps they won't ever come near a yellow pitot probe,
or one with UV-bright flower petals or a blinking LED...nobody knows. Several
solutions might be possible.
This would be a great science project, even for a whole classroom.
Good luck, and tell us what happens.
Addendum: See my website for a pitot tube of interest:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/thermopitot.pdf
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383883#383883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harley <harley(at)AgelessWings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
Very interesting idea, Eric! As a start to whoever wants to
attempt this, I had several two foot long pieces of 3/16 inch
shrink tubing hanging from a shelf in my garage. The daubers
plugged up the black tubing, but NOT the yellow, white or red!
Not very definitive, but all the openings were hanging in the
same location, bunched together. The black looked like it had
several years of nests in it, going a couple of inches up the
tubing on both ends, but the others were absolutely clear.
Harley
-----------------------------------------------------------------
On 9/24/2012 9:23 AM, Eric M. Jones wrote:
>
> Mud dauber wasps are the bane of small holes everywhere. I want to suggest that
an enterprising individual do the following long-term experiment (Actually,
you might try searching the USPTO first):
>
> Let's see what attracts mud dauber wasps. Do many experiments with enough time
to allow the wasps to build nests (and taking the weather into account.):
>
> 1) Drill a grid of different size holes in a board. Mount the board in a location
know for having a known problem with the wasps. Do the WMDs (Wasps, Mud Dauber)
prefer a hole size? Log the result.
> 2) Repeat with a spectrum of different colors. Do the WMDs prefer a color? How
about in the UV? Log the result.
> 3) Repeat with various contrasting patterns around the holes (e.g. starburst,
concentric circles, snowflake, spirals, flower petals, angry jagged shapes...whatever
you can think of). Log the result.
> 4) Put a colored LED behind a series of the same size holes. Log the result.
> 5) Put a blinking LED behind a series of the same size holes. Try various colors.
Log the result.
> 6) Keep going until you find a solution.
> 7) Patent it. "Method of Preventing Aircraft Pitot Tube Obstruction by Mud Dauber
Wasp."
> 8) Pick up your Nobel prize in Stockholm.
> 9) Your MacArthur Genius Prize will be waiting when you return home.
>
> Okay, perhaps that is going too far. But the airlines and pitot tube makers would
be very happy to pay for any workable results. Remember, every jet engine
you see has that curly snake on the nose cone. This reliably prevents birds from
nesting in the inlet. A bird will never come near anything that (in its tiny
bird brain) might possibly be a snake. I put a rubber snake on my rear deck
which absolutely keeps bird and their mess away.
>
> The goal is to find something in the WMDs brain that works similarly. There are
myriad odd insect habits. Perhaps they won't ever come near a yellow pitot
probe, or one with UV-bright flower petals or a blinking LED...nobody knows. Several
solutions might be possible.
>
> This would be a great science project, even for a whole classroom.
>
> Good luck, and tell us what happens.
>
> Addendum: See my website for a pitot tube of interest:
> http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/thermopitot.pdf
>
> --------
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge, MA 01550
> (508) 764-2072
> emjones(at)charter.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383883#383883
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
Similar here. They like the black but not the clear transparent tubing.
Ken
On 24/09/2012 9:33 AM, Harley wrote:
> Very interesting idea, Eric! As a start to whoever wants to attempt
> this, I had several two foot long pieces of 3/16 inch shrink tubing
> hanging from a shelf in my garage. The daubers plugged up the black
> tubing, but NOT the yellow, white or red! Not very definitive, but all
> the openings were hanging in the same location, bunched together. The
> black looked like it had several years of nests in it, going a couple of
> inches up the tubing on both ends, but the others were absolutely clear.
>
> Harley
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> On 9/24/2012 9:23 AM, Eric M. Jones wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
>>
>> Mud dauber wasps are the bane of small holes everywhere. I want to suggest that
an enterprising individual do the following long-term experiment (Actually,
you might try searching the USPTO first):
>>
>> Let's see what attracts mud dauber wasps. Do many experiments with enough time
to allow the wasps to build nests (and taking the weather into account.):
>>
>> 1) Drill a grid of different size holes in a board. Mount the board in a location
know for having a known problem with the wasps. Do the WMDs (Wasps, Mud
Dauber) prefer a hole size? Log the result.
>> 2) Repeat with a spectrum of different colors. Do the WMDs prefer a color? How
about in the UV? Log the result.
>> 3) Repeat with various contrasting patterns around the holes (e.g. starburst,
concentric circles, snowflake, spirals, flower petals, angry jagged shapes...whatever
you can think of). Log the result.
>> 4) Put a colored LED behind a series of the same size holes. Log the result.
>> 5) Put a blinking LED behind a series of the same size holes. Try various colors.
Log the result.
>> 6) Keep going until you find a solution.
>> 7) Patent it. "Method of Preventing Aircraft Pitot Tube Obstruction by Mud Dauber
Wasp."
>> 8) Pick up your Nobel prize in Stockholm.
>> 9) Your MacArthur Genius Prize will be waiting when you return home.
>>
>> Okay, perhaps that is going too far. But the airlines and pitot tube makers
would be very happy to pay for any workable results. Remember, every jet engine
you see has that curly snake on the nose cone. This reliably prevents birds
from nesting in the inlet. A bird will never come near anything that (in its tiny
bird brain) might possibly be a snake. I put a rubber snake on my rear deck
which absolutely keeps bird and their mess away.
>>
>> The goal is to find something in the WMDs brain that works similarly. There
are myriad odd insect habits. Perhaps they won't ever come near a yellow pitot
probe, or one with UV-bright flower petals or a blinking LED...nobody knows.
Several solutions might be possible.
>>
>> This would be a great science project, even for a whole classroom.
>>
>> Good luck, and tell us what happens.
>>
>> Addendum: See my website for a pitot tube of interest:
>> http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/thermopitot.pdf
>>
>> --------
>> Eric M. Jones
>> www.PerihelionDesign.com
>> 113 Brentwood Drive
>> Southbridge, MA 01550
>> (508) 764-2072
>> emjones(at)charter.net
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal Crimping |
Tool
| From: | "stearman456" <warbirds(at)shaw.ca> |
Stein Air used to sell a crimping/swaging tool for #2, 4, and 6 AWG terminals,
product ID was TERMTOOL. I guess they're no longer able to get them. If someone
is done with theirs and would like to sell it I can promise it a good home.
Dan Jones warbirds(at)shaw.ca
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383893#383893
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "s" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
Bob/Ken/Bob,
Thanks a lot for your replies.
BobMc> what about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure
where an OV occurs?
You're right... I have to keep reminding myself it's not how unlikely the
event is that counts, it's how bad the consequences could be (vs how easy it
is to design a redundant system to avoid those bad consequences... In this
case it's easy so should be done).
Ken> The regulator failed even though the overvoltage disconnect relay was
between the
Ken> alternator and the regulator so the voltage must have risen faster than
the relay
Ken> could open when the engine started. I credit Bob's crowbar ovm for
keeping the buss
Ken> voltage clamped though and preventing any further damage.
I'm not clear to me how the OVM could have achieved that. I thought the way
the OVM module works is that it grounds the number 4 pole in the S1 switch
in Z16/Z17 and therefore causes the breaker to open and disconnects the OV
relay.
BobN> I've not taken the time to really thrash through
BobN> the physics of a PM regulator. Seems it SHOULD
BobN> be designed to handle worst case failures including
BobN> unloaded operations. It can probably be done but
BobN> Z-17 is a work-around until the golden PM rectifier
BobN> regulator comes along.
I think you mean Z-16 is golden... Z-17 is the simplified version.
I would also be interested in how the RR as well as the permanent magnet
generator in the Rotax works. I'll dig around... Thanks again!
Sacha
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: domenica 23 settembre 2012 22:37
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax
generators?
-->
At 11:18 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
Thanks Bob,
I almost didn't mention it as I thought it was "obviously wrongh but now
I'm glad I did as I learnt something! (Is there a detailed discussion of
how each Z figure works somewhere that beginners can read?). Still wondering
about the diff between the Z16 and Z17 alternator disconnect wiring.
Just variations on a theme. Primary design
goal is to achieve absolute control over energy
from the alternator as seen by the rest of the
airplane. Opening the DC pathway out of the
rectifier-regulator does that. Opening the AC
power into the regulator does too.
AC is generally easier to control than DC for
considerations of contact arcing. But given
the low duty cycle of stressful events in these
systems, either will do fine and last a long
time.
As Ken noted, the RR can be placed at risk for
high rpm ops without having the battery connected.
So while the control schemes presented in Z-16/17
are golden for the rest of the airplane, Z-17
carries the protection further back toward the
alternator and would perhaps have saved Ken's
RR from untimely demise due to the unloaded
condition.
I've not taken the time to really thrash through
the physics of a PM regulator. Seems it SHOULD
be designed to handle worst case failures including
unloaded operations. It can probably be done but
Z-17 is a work-around until the golden PM rectifier
regulator comes along.
I think you mean Z-16 is golden... Z-17 is the simplified version.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yesterday's Project - Show & Tell |
| From: | James Kilford <james(at)etravel.org> |
Very nice. Easy to fashion a cover for as well, if you're so inclined.
Also really handy for an aeroplane with a wooden firewall, as it reduces
the number of firewall bolts.
Makes me wonder why I didn't think of doing the same thing!
James
On 23 September 2012 22:45, Jeff Luckey wrote:
> ** **
>
> How about a little show-and-tell I=99m not sure that the
embedded picture
> will come thru, (if it does not, I will re-post)****
>
> ** **
>
> Picture of a panel of containing a master solenoid, start solenoid, shunt
,
> shunt fuses & ANL current limiter for the engine battery in my RV-7.****
>
> ** **
>
> Design Goals:****
>
> ** **
>
> 1. as compact as practical ( the mounting plate dimensions are 6
=9D wide
> x 5.5=9D tall)****
> 2. easy to install =93 (mounts to airframe w/ 4 screws)****
> 3. easy to work on (all of the interconnections were made while
> sitting at my workbench as opposed to working in-position on the airfr
ame)
> ****
> 4. easy to maintain (all fastenings are tapped into the base-plate
> thus not requiring access to the back of the panel after installation
for
> maintenance) ****
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Mounting:****
>
> ** **
>
> To be mounted <~12=9D from the battery on the firewall****
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Exercise for the reader:****
>
> ** **
>
> See if you can identify input & all outputs****
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Any & all questions, comments, & constructive criticisms welcome
****
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ****
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Jeff Luckey****
>
> ** **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
Hi Sacha
I might be a bit optimistic with that comment. My thoughts are that when
my OVM activates it immediately shorts out the relay but it is still
connected to the buss and is clamping the buss voltage until the circuit
breaker pops. So you are correct that with a slow opening relay and a
fast acting CB there could be a few milliseconds delay during which time
the voltage will be rising again.
Probably shouldn't mention it since I can't claim they are significant
but I also have a few TVS diodes on the buss. Since they are fast acting
and cheap they seemed like a good idea (several years ago) with an
electrically dependent engine.
Ken
On 24/09/2012 11:01 AM, s wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "s"
>
> Bob/Ken/Bob,
>
> Thanks a lot for your replies.
>
> BobMc> what about the case of the one in a million "abnormal" failure
> where an OV occurs?
>
> You're right... I have to keep reminding myself it's not how unlikely the
> event is that counts, it's how bad the consequences could be (vs how easy it
> is to design a redundant system to avoid those bad consequences... In this
> case it's easy so should be done).
>
> Ken> The regulator failed even though the overvoltage disconnect relay was
> between the
> Ken> alternator and the regulator so the voltage must have risen faster than
> the relay
> Ken> could open when the engine started. I credit Bob's crowbar ovm for
> keeping the buss
> Ken> voltage clamped though and preventing any further damage.
>
> I'm not clear to me how the OVM could have achieved that. I thought the way
> the OVM module works is that it grounds the number 4 pole in the S1 switch
> in Z16/Z17 and therefore causes the breaker to open and disconnects the OV
> relay.
>
> BobN> I've not taken the time to really thrash through
> BobN> the physics of a PM regulator. Seems it SHOULD
> BobN> be designed to handle worst case failures including
> BobN> unloaded operations. It can probably be done but
> BobN> Z-17 is a work-around until the golden PM rectifier
> BobN> regulator comes along.
>
> I think you mean Z-16 is golden... Z-17 is the simplified version.
>
> I would also be interested in how the RR as well as the permanent magnet
> generator in the Rotax works. I'll dig around... Thanks again!
>
> Sacha
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
> Nuckolls, III
> Sent: domenica 23 settembre 2012 22:37
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax
> generators?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> -->
>
>
> At 11:18 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: U
>
> Thanks Bob,
> I almost didn't mention it as I thought it was "obviously wrongh but now
> I'm glad I did as I learnt something! (Is there a detailed discussion of
> how each Z figure works somewhere that beginners can read?). Still wondering
> about the diff between the Z16 and Z17 alternator disconnect wiring.
>
> Just variations on a theme. Primary design
> goal is to achieve absolute control over energy
> from the alternator as seen by the rest of the
> airplane. Opening the DC pathway out of the
> rectifier-regulator does that. Opening the AC
> power into the regulator does too.
>
> AC is generally easier to control than DC for
> considerations of contact arcing. But given
> the low duty cycle of stressful events in these
> systems, either will do fine and last a long
> time.
>
> As Ken noted, the RR can be placed at risk for
> high rpm ops without having the battery connected.
> So while the control schemes presented in Z-16/17
> are golden for the rest of the airplane, Z-17
> carries the protection further back toward the
> alternator and would perhaps have saved Ken's
> RR from untimely demise due to the unloaded
> condition.
>
> I've not taken the time to really thrash through
> the physics of a PM regulator. Seems it SHOULD
> be designed to handle worst case failures including
> unloaded operations. It can probably be done but
> Z-17 is a work-around until the golden PM rectifier
> regulator comes along.
>
> I think you mean Z-16 is golden... Z-17 is the simplified version.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
At 12:28 PM 9/24/2012, you wrote:
Hi Sacha
I might be a bit optimistic with that comment. My thoughts are that
when my OVM activates it immediately shorts out the relay but it is
still connected to the buss and is clamping the buss voltage until
the circuit breaker pops.
Actually, it's a healthy battery that "clamps
the bus". During OVM reaction time the alternator
goes into max v current limited output with the
ship's accessories taking part of the load
and the battery working to soak up the rest.
Once the OVM trips, the current draw on the bus
WILL go up to 50+ amps . . . so I suppose there's
some additional clamping going on. A 5A breaker
with typical OVM loads opens in 15 to 50 milliseconds
so it's all over in a blink of an eye.
So you are correct that with a slow opening relay and a fast acting
CB there could be a few milliseconds delay during which time the
voltage will be rising again.
Relay, cb and ovm timing 'races' don't figure into
system functionality at all. Your electro-whizzies
manufactured to DO-160 design goals will stand off
20 volts for 1 second. The battery will keep bus
volts down to 17 volts or so. This give the OVM and
associated components all the time in the world to
do their intended job.
Probably shouldn't mention it since I can't claim they are
significant but I also have a few TVS diodes on the buss. Since they
are fast acting and cheap they seemed like a good idea (several years
ago) with an electrically dependent engine.
They don't hurt a thing . . . don't do anything
useful either. The TVS is designed to mitigate
low energy, fast rise, high voltage transients
that do not exist on your ship's DC bus . . . and
again, devices built to DO-160 intent are designed
to stand off the classic 'transient spike test'.
Years ago I spent a fist full of the boss's money for
my man Cecil to build a test fixture required for
GENERATION of the DO-160 test spikes. Cool gadget.
When we got it finished and calibrated, I began to
explore vulnerability for my favorite bus power
conditioning circuits.
I was astounded to find that when the device under
test had a simple capacitor of 1uF or more across
the incoming line . . . Cecil's Evil Spike Thrower
couldn't put a spear past it.
From that time onward, the fixture was never again
pulled down from the shelf . . . 'cause all our products
already featured the necessary capacitor. Had I
endeavored to analyze the fact mathematically
(or simply brass-boarded the circuit) I could have
used Cecil's time more productively.
Short answer is that the much dreaded and poorly
understood 'spikes' are already being run to ground
by MULTIPLE input capacitors that already exist
in your system. I have chased the elusive 'spike'
in airplanes from C-150 to Beechjets and have
never been able to capture one in the wild. The
ones I generated on the bench turned out to be
wimps.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Thomas <lists(at)stevet.net> |
| Subject: | Need Help Troubleshooting |
I've got a situation that appeared rather suddenly and I'm not sure where to start.
I was doing some tough-n-goes the other day when one of my low voltage lights
started flashing on downwind.
I've got a dual electrical system based on Z-14 with two LR3C-14s installed. For
the last 60 hours, everything has been running perfect. I fire up the engine
and I get 2 readings of 14.2 volts at idle. Suddenly, one of the systems will
not deliver any alternator voltage at idle. If I bring the engine back to
idle at any point, whether it be on the ground or in the air, the voltage drops
to 12.2 and begins a slow fall from there. As I increase the RPMs, the voltage
again rises to 14.2. The second system holds 14.2 volts the entire time.
Is there a way to figure out whether my problem is with the LR3C-14 or with the
alternator itself? Or possibly with my field circuit breaker? Or with the alternator
switch? I haven't a clue where to even begin. Suggestions welcome.
Steve Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken <klehman(at)albedo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
I assumed that Sacha was referring to my example that I think
effectively had no battery in the circuit Bob. My little AGM battery was
completely flat. Afterwards it seemed that I could run the voltage up
and the battery would not absorb any current until it sat on the charger
for quite some time.
thanks for the review though. I for one really appreciate your real
world info and stories.
Ken
On 24/09/2012 2:57 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
> At 12:28 PM 9/24/2012, you wrote:
>
> Hi Sacha
>
> I might be a bit optimistic with that comment. My thoughts are that when
> my OVM activates it immediately shorts out the relay but it is still
> connected to the buss and is clamping the buss voltage until the circuit
> breaker pops.
>
> Actually, it's a healthy battery that "clamps
> the bus". During OVM reaction time the alternator
> goes into max v current limited output with the
> ship's accessories taking part of the load
> and the battery working to soak up the rest.
>
> Once the OVM trips, the current draw on the bus
> WILL go up to 50+ amps . . . so I suppose there's
> some additional clamping going on. A 5A breaker
> with typical OVM loads opens in 15 to 50 milliseconds
> so it's all over in a blink of an eye.
>
> So you are correct that with a slow opening relay and a fast acting CB
> there could be a few milliseconds delay during which time the voltage
> will be rising again.
>
> Relay, cb and ovm timing 'races' don't figure into
> system functionality at all. Your electro-whizzies
> manufactured to DO-160 design goals will stand off
> 20 volts for 1 second. The battery will keep bus
> volts down to 17 volts or so. This give the OVM and
> associated components all the time in the world to
> do their intended job.
>
> Probably shouldn't mention it since I can't claim they are significant
> but I also have a few TVS diodes on the buss. Since they are fast acting
> and cheap they seemed like a good idea (several years ago) with an
> electrically dependent engine.
>
> They don't hurt a thing . . . don't do anything
> useful either. The TVS is designed to mitigate
> low energy, fast rise, high voltage transients
> that do not exist on your ship's DC bus . . . and
> again, devices built to DO-160 intent are designed
> to stand off the classic 'transient spike test'.
>
> Years ago I spent a fist full of the boss's money for
> my man Cecil to build a test fixture required for
> GENERATION of the DO-160 test spikes. Cool gadget.
>
> When we got it finished and calibrated, I began to
> explore vulnerability for my favorite bus power
> conditioning circuits.
>
> I was astounded to find that when the device under
> test had a simple capacitor of 1uF or more across
> the incoming line . . . Cecil's Evil Spike Thrower
> couldn't put a spear past it.
>
> From that time onward, the fixture was never again
> pulled down from the shelf . . . 'cause all our products
> already featured the necessary capacitor. Had I
> endeavored to analyze the fact mathematically
> (or simply brass-boarded the circuit) I could have
> used Cecil's time more productively.
>
> Short answer is that the much dreaded and poorly
> understood 'spikes' are already being run to ground
> by MULTIPLE input capacitors that already exist
> in your system. I have chased the elusive 'spike'
> in airplanes from C-150 to Beechjets and have
> never been able to capture one in the wild. The
> ones I generated on the bench turned out to be
> wimps.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed |
and fail?
Fascinating story with the switches. I could almost see Sherlock with
his magnifying glass examining the teeter-totter
If I understand correctly, you are saying that if there is
heating/singeing/burning going on in properly configured circuit, the
problem will be at the same location as the excess heating. Therefore, a
singed crimp suggests that the high resistance point is in the crimp.
Also, any voltage drop in a circuit will occur in the same place. In
my case, I had a splice-free line running from my fuse panel to the
strobe unit. Having detected the voltage drop, I imagined a chafed
wire but didn't expect that the hidden crimp barrel on one connector
would be the smoking culprit.
Increased resistance with a non-trivial current = voltage drop and heat
In my case, the voltage drop was enough to cause the strobe unit to
intermittently fire and there was enough heat to singe the crimp.
I knew that but now I "get it" a bit better in a real life situation.
Bill "it's elementary" Watson
On 9/23/2012 1:59 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
> At 04:08 PM 9/22/2012, you wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> Search "switches with faston tabs" in the AeroElectric archives. They
>> discuss the discoloration of the faston insulation as the result of
>> switch failure. Time frame of sept 08.
>
> Yes . . . there was a 'rash' of failures manifesting
> in 'smoked joints' that started with loose rivets on
> the Carling switches. This prompted a lot of discussion
> and failure-analysis/tear-downs back about that
> time. Something to keep in mind as folks are unhappily
> blessed with such events.
>
> Look for a the loci of failure . . . sorta like a
> arson investigation. See which parts got hottest.
> These usually point to the area off poor connection
> where the degradation of the joints began. Several
> examples of over-heating in poor conduction areas
> are explored here:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/8d63v8x
>
> http://tinyurl.com/8zzkfbb
>
> http://tinyurl.com/8zzkfbb
>
> Whether bolting alternator brackets to crank-cases
> or keeping all the connections tight through
> a switch, the path to failure is the same. Increase
> in resistance increases heating and VOLTAGE DROP
> across a joint These two antagonists team up
> regeneratively to damage and perhaps fail the
> joint.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal Crimping |
Tool
Have you tried Bob Avery at Avery Tools? Try
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=461
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TT5000
Peter
On 24/09/2012 15:52, stearman456 wrote:
>
> Stein Air used to sell a crimping/swaging tool for #2, 4, and 6 AWG terminals,
product ID was TERMTOOL. I guess they're no longer able to get them. If someone
is done with theirs and would like to sell it I can promise it a good home.
Dan Jones warbirds(at)shaw.ca
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383893#383893
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Help Troubleshooting |
Steve, this is just a shot in the dark. A fully charged battery with no
load should be producing over 12.6 volts. I'm wondering if you've lost
a battery.
Bill Watson
RV10 - Z-14
On 9/24/2012 3:41 PM, Steve Thomas wrote:
>
> I've got a situation that appeared rather suddenly and I'm not sure where to
start. I was doing some tough-n-goes the other day when one of my low voltage
lights started flashing on downwind.
>
> I've got a dual electrical system based on Z-14 with two LR3C-14s installed.
For the last 60 hours, everything has been running perfect. I fire up the engine
and I get 2 readings of 14.2 volts at idle. Suddenly, one of the systems
will not deliver any alternator voltage at idle. If I bring the engine back
to idle at any point, whether it be on the ground or in the air, the voltage drops
to 12.2 and begins a slow fall from there. As I increase the RPMs, the voltage
again rises to 14.2. The second system holds 14.2 volts the entire time.
>
> Is there a way to figure out whether my problem is with the LR3C-14 or with the
alternator itself? Or possibly with my field circuit breaker? Or with the
alternator switch? I haven't a clue where to even begin. Suggestions welcome.
>
>
> Steve Thomas
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal Crimping |
Tool
| From: | "stearman456" <warbirds(at)shaw.ca> |
Thanks Peter - I'll look into that.
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383929#383929
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal Crimping |
Tool
I've got the Terminal Tool and it does a great job if you can put it in a
vice. Used as a portable tool it is pretty awkward. I made it work and the
results were fine but, as I say, it was a little awkward. Maybe if you had
a vice on a roll around bench that you could set beside the plane . . .
Allen Fulmer
RV7 still building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Pengilly
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal
Crimping Tool
Have you tried Bob Avery at Avery Tools? Try
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=461
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TT5000
Peter
On 24/09/2012 15:52, stearman456 wrote:
>
> Stein Air used to sell a crimping/swaging tool for #2, 4, and 6 AWG
terminals, product ID was TERMTOOL. I guess they're no longer able to get
them. If someone is done with theirs and would like to sell it I can
promise it a good home. Dan Jones warbirds(at)shaw.ca
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383893#383893
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal Crimping |
Tool
I got a hydrolic crimper from harbor freight that works pretty well. I
have one from either Steinair or B&C. It is basically a whack-it with the
hammer till it looks right so of machine. I like the control from the HF
unit.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 9/24/2012 3:12:36 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
peter(at)sportingaero.com writes:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Peter Pengilly
Have you tried Bob Avery at Avery Tools? Try
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=461
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TT5000
Peter
On 24/09/2012 15:52, stearman456 wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "stearman456"
>
> Stein Air used to sell a crimping/swaging tool for #2, 4, and 6 AWG
terminals, product ID was TERMTOOL. I guess they're no longer able to get
them. If someone is done with theirs and would like to sell it I can promise
it a good home. Dan Jones warbirds(at)shaw.ca
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383893#383893
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Misprint in Z-16, v.12/ OV with Rotax generators? |
| From: | Sacha <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
> I for one really appreciate your real world info and stories.
Me too, thanks again to both of you.
Sacha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Help Troubleshooting |
At 02:41 PM 9/24/2012, you wrote:
I've got a situation that appeared rather suddenly and I'm not sure
where to start. I was doing some tough-n-goes the other day when one
of my low voltage lights started flashing on downwind.
I've got a dual electrical system based on Z-14 with two LR3C-14s
installed. For the last 60 hours, everything has been running
perfect. I fire up the engine and I get 2 readings of 14.2 volts at
idle. Suddenly, one of the systems will not deliver any alternator
voltage at idle. If I bring the engine back to idle at any point,
whether it be on the ground or in the air, the voltage drops to 12.2
and begins a slow fall from there. As I increase the RPMs, the
voltage again rises to 14.2. The second system holds 14.2 volts the
entire time.
Do you not know which of the two systems is
powered by the SD-20 and which is powered by
the main alternator?
Is there a way to figure out whether my problem is with the LR3C-14
or with the alternator itself? Or possibly with my field circuit
breaker? Or with the alternator switch? I haven't a clue where to
even begin. Suggestions welcome.
I'm not sure anything is wrong. The SD-20 alternator
is DE-RATED to 20A due to limitations in RPM available
at the vacuum pump pad. The alternator begins life as
a 40A ND which is disassembled for salvage of useful
components and reassembled with new front end bell,
shaft mods, sheer coupling and removal of built in
regulator.
Borrowing from the B&C website we see this data
table:
Emacs!
Assuming 1:1.4 step up gearing for the vacuum
pump pad, a ramp taxi RPM of say 1000 yields
alternator RPM of 1400 where it can be
expected to deliver less than 15A. If bus
loads on the Aux alternator are significant,
bus voltage on that side can be expected to
drop below 13.0v warning value and the battery
will be expected to pick up some slack at voltages
similar to those you cited.
I would recommend that ground ops be conducted
with the cross-feed contactor closed except to
check Aux Alternator output during pre-flight
run up. After take off, add "Cross-feed Contactor-OPEN"
to your post departure checklist. You would also
reclose the cross-feed contactor during pre-landing
checklist.
The fact that you USED to get 14.2 at ground idle
before suggests that the cross-feed contactor
was closed. Now that you're seeing this disparity
of voltage between the two busses suggests that
the cross-feed contactor is open and the Aux
Alternator is performing pretty much as expected.
I wonder if -either- you've changed your modus
operandi for cross-feed management -or- the contactor
has become unavailable for some reason.
In any case, you should KNOW which of the two
alternators is used to power which suite of goodies
on the panel. This is an essential component of
plan-B development for operations with the Main
Alternator crapped.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Good news . . . and bad news |
I picked up the latest version of Schumacher's SEC1562
charger at Wallyworld last week. Got it on a site-to-store
free of shipping charges for about $21.
The first plot for a charge cycle demonstrated the highly
recommended bulk charge ramp capped off with an absorption
charge plateau.
http://tinyurl.com/9s7kpww
I did a series of charge discharge cycles alternating between
the 1562 and my 10+ year old Battery Tender. Wasn't paying
much attention to details of the data. Each test cycle
took 14+ hours.
When I merged the data on to a common plot, it became obvious
that the test battery, while relatively young, was incapable
of delivering closely matched pairs of charge/discharge cycle.
Normally, one expects a new SVLA battery to be good for
several dozen deep discharges before demonstrated capacity
begins to fall. Not so with the test article I've been
using.
Test results:
I'm unable to resolve the difference between recharge
performance of the 1562 versus the BT. Both chargers
seem to put about as much snort into the battery but
any real differences are buried in the uncertainties
generated by the degrading battery.
I can confidently assert that the SEM51562 is still
an exceptional value. It now features 6/12 auto-switching,
it charges at a rate about 2x that of the Battery
Tender. I see that the BT Jr sells on Ebay for about $25
with free shipping, so cost differential has dropped markedly
over the past few years.
Conclusion:
I cannot claim that one device is superior to the other
based on measurements. The recharge voltage profiles
for the BT are markedly shy of the idealized profiles
cited by industry. Just how much difference it makes
remains unmeasured.
Using a chemical conversation system as a 'transfer
standard' for evaluation of charger performance is
fraught with risk . . . which rose up and bit me.
Anywho, I've got a shiny new 1562 that's going out
to the wood shop to maintain some batteries I have
stored out there. Next time I get my hands on a fresh,
mid-sized SLVA battery, I'll try again. Don't throw
out your Battery Tenders! I'm keeping all three of
mine.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Thomas <lists(at)stevet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Help Troubleshooting |
I should have been more specific. What I have is a Mazda 2 rotor with
two 70 amp alternators. The batteries, two each, are Panasonic LC-RD
1217P. I never start with the cross-feed closed. In fact, I don't ever
recall ever using the cross-feed. The starter is connected to system 1,
the system that is now failing. The last start, while running the test,
was sharp and crisp. The alternators are Bosh with the internal
regulators removed.
The split of devices running on each system is well known, but I don't
see the relevance. The cross-feed is a backup position that, until now,
has not been needed. And, since I was in the pattern when it failed,
there was no need to engage - even if I had remembered. I don't know
the RPMs of the alternators at idle, but, it was working fine.
Steve Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
On Sep 24, 2012, at 5:42 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
> At 02:41 PM 9/24/2012, you wrote:
>
> I've got a situation that appeared rather suddenly and I'm not sure
where to start. I was doing some tough-n-goes the other day when one of
my low voltage lights started flashing on downwind.
>
> I've got a dual electrical system based on Z-14 with two LR3C-14s
installed. For the last 60 hours, everything has been running perfect.
I fire up the engine and I get 2 readings of 14.2 volts at idle.
Suddenly, one of the systems will not deliver any alternator voltage at
idle. If I bring the engine back to idle at any point, whether it be on
the ground or in the air, the voltage drops to 12.2 and begins a slow
fall from there. As I increase the RPMs, the voltage again rises to
14.2. The second system holds 14.2 volts the entire time.
>
> Do you not know which of the two systems is
> powered by the SD-20 and which is powered by
> the main alternator?
>
> Is there a way to figure out whether my problem is with the LR3C-14 or
with the alternator itself? Or possibly with my field circuit breaker?
Or with the alternator switch? I haven't a clue where to even begin.
Suggestions welcome.
>
> I'm not sure anything is wrong. The SD-20 alternator
> is DE-RATED to 20A due to limitations in RPM available
> at the vacuum pump pad. The alternator begins life as
> a 40A ND which is disassembled for salvage of useful
> components and reassembled with new front end bell,
> shaft mods, sheer coupling and removal of built in
> regulator.
>
> Borrowing from the B&C website we see this data
> table:
>
>
>
> Assuming 1:1.4 step up gearing for the vacuum
> pump pad, a ramp taxi RPM of say 1000 yields
> alternator RPM of 1400 where it can be
> expected to deliver less than 15A. If bus
> loads on the Aux alternator are significant,
> bus voltage on that side can be expected to
> drop below 13.0v warning value and the battery
> will be expected to pick up some slack at voltages
> similar to those you cited.
>
> I would recommend that ground ops be conducted
> with the cross-feed contactor closed except to
> check Aux Alternator output during pre-flight
> run up. After take off, add "Cross-feed Contactor-OPEN"
> to your post departure checklist. You would also
> reclose the cross-feed contactor during pre-landing
> checklist.
>
> The fact that you USED to get 14.2 at ground idle
> before suggests that the cross-feed contactor
> was closed. Now that you're seeing this disparity
> of voltage between the two busses suggests that
> the cross-feed contactor is open and the Aux
> Alternator is performing pretty much as expected.
>
> I wonder if -either- you've changed your modus
> operandi for cross-feed management -or- the contactor
> has become unavailable for some reason.
>
> In any case, you should KNOW which of the two
> alternators is used to power which suite of goodies
> on the panel. This is an essential component of
> plan-B development for operations with the Main
> Alternator crapped.
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Terminal Tool |
| From: | Ronald Cox <flyboyron(at)gmail.com> |
(Apologies for the first one which quoted the entire Digest...
Inadvertently sent before I cleaned it up...)
A friend of mine (one of my copilots) designed this, and it works
absolutely perfectly.
Needs a vise too, but I've made quite a few perfect crimps on my big cables
with production serial number 1.
Check it out.
http://www.theterminaltool.com/
All US-Made components, too.
I bought the hydraulic Harbor Freight tool, too, and it works OK for
portability, but this thing makes much nicer crimps by far. They look
factory-made.
Ron Cox
Glasair Super II F/T
> From: Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal
Crimping
> Tool
>
>
> Have you tried Bob Avery at Avery Tools? Try
>
> http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=461
>
> http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TT5000
>
> Peter
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Terminal Tool |
| From: | "stearman456" <warbirds(at)shaw.ca> |
Thanks, Ron - that's EXACTLY the tool I was looking for. Just ordered one from
him!
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383988#383988
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Help Troubleshooting |
At 12:18 PM 9/25/2012, you wrote:
>I should have been more specific. What I have is a Mazda 2 rotor
>with two 70 amp alternators. The batteries, two each, are Panasonic
>LC-RD 1217P. I never start with the cross-feed closed. In fact, I
>don't ever recall ever using the cross-feed. The starter is
>connected to system 1, the system that is now failing. The last
>start, while running the test, was sharp and crisp. The alternators
>are Bosh with the internal regulators removed.
>
>The split of devices running on each system is well known, but I
>don't see the relevance. The cross-feed is a backup position that,
>until now, has not been needed. And, since I was in the pattern
>when it failed, there was no need to engage - even if I had
>remembered. I don't know the RPMs of the alternators at idle, but,
>it was working fine.
Sorry. The vast majority of two-alternator systems
we work with are on aircraft engines where one
alternator is driven from the now vacant vacuum
pump pad.
Okay, we're troubleshooting a single alternator/
battery combination. Have you run the traps on
the LR3 regulator per B&C documents?
http://tinyurl.com/bowymay
Knowing how the FIELD output voltage from the
LR-3 is behaving when you're experiencing
a problem is critical to deciding whether
the difficulty lies with the alternator or
regulator.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Help Troubleshooting |
| From: | Steve Thomas <lists(at)stevet.net> |
Not yet. Will do ASAP and reply.
Steve Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
On Sep 25, 2012, at 12:50 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
> Have you run the traps on
> the LR3 regulator per B&C documents?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Schoen <flybill2usa(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal Crimping |
Tool
Hi Allen Short report: I have almost completed the installation of the huge
E-cowl cowl flap and it is turning out pretty well if I do say so. Had to
beef up the trailing edge of the cowl flap so the center mounted actuater
can move the huge area without distortion and it is setting up tonight as I
type. Tomorrow I start the last cowl project. The NACA duct to the air fi
lter to turbo inlet. Will do something similar to your installation. Tryi
ng to figure out how to tie the duct to the filter box and get it set up so
the cowl can be put on while alowing for the connection of the turbo inlet
fixed to the engine and the cowl mounted duct and filter box fixed to the
removable cowl. Tricky...but=2C I think I have figured out a way to do it.
will take a lot of trial and error but I am still actually kind of enjoyin
g the fiber glass work. Will try to send you some pics. I'm having a hard
time finding a new memory stick for my ancient sony sure shot digital cam
era and the current ones are full up. need to get busy and transfer them a
ll to my computer then figure out how to delete all the shots on the little
memory card to make room for more shots. The cowl flap looks pretty neat a
nd will give me a huge exit area when needed and a pretty streamlined low d
rag exit when cooling is not needed. It rained and hailed today. We nee
ded the rain and we got lots of it. Turned really chilly this afternoon. A
bout 48.... after what must have been cold front passage. Look forward to
each days accomplishments as I can see the progress each day. It is getting
to be fun again working on the RV-7. No real work on the horizon so don't
know how I will pay for the Aero classic upholstery set-up yet which is abo
ut the only un-funded project on the horizon. Attended a really good men'
s prayer breakfast early this morning=2C then was at the hangar by 8:30 am.
Chao for now. Bill
> From: afulmer(at)charter.net
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal
Crimping Tool
> Date: Mon=2C 24 Sep 2012 17:56:32 -0500
>
net>
>
> I've got the Terminal Tool and it does a great job if you can put it in a
> vice. Used as a portable tool it is pretty awkward. I made it work and
the
> results were fine but=2C as I say=2C it was a little awkward. Maybe if y
ou had
> a vice on a roll around bench that you could set beside the plane . . .
>
> Allen Fulmer
> RV7 still building
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter
> Pengilly
> Sent: Monday=2C September 24=2C 2012 5:12 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Looking to Buy a Stein Air Large Terminal
> Crimping Tool
>
>
>
> Have you tried Bob Avery at Avery Tools? Try
>
> http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=461
>
> http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TT5000
>
> Peter
>
> On 24/09/2012 15:52=2C stearman456 wrote:
a>
> >
> > Stein Air used to sell a crimping/swaging tool for #2=2C 4=2C and 6 AWG
> terminals=2C product ID was TERMTOOL. I guess they're no longer able to
get
> them. If someone is done with theirs and would like to sell it I can
> promise it a good home. Dan Jones warbirds(at)shaw.ca
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383893#383893
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Terminal Tool |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
Go to Ebay and search "Hammer Crimper". For big cables they seem ideal. And so
cheap it is hard to believe. Must be Elbonian labor.
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384015#384015
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Bradburry" <bbradburry(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Waiver on Ethanol! |
The US government, until October 11, 2012, is asking for public comment on
the proposed waiver to the Renewable Fuel Standard, the regulation that
mandates ethanol in U.S. fuel stocks, due to reduced corn crops from this
summer's drought. Go
<http://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=EPA-HQ-OAR-2012-0632-0001>
HERE on regulations.gov, where you can view the document,
EPA-HQ-OAR-2012-0632. Click the "Comment Now!" button to add your comment.
It's easy, so do it now!
http://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=EPA-HQ-OAR-2012-0632-0001
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Switch confusion |
| From: | "plevyakh" <hplevyak(at)mac.com> |
Folks,
In studying the various Z Architecture diagrams, I notice in some cases the S700-2-3
switch is used and in others the S700-2-10 is used. I understand the functionality
differences.
Can anyone tell me if there are operational reasons for using an S700-2-10 switch
over the S700-2-3 switch? Or vice versa?
S700-2-3 = OFF - BATT + ALT ON
S700-2-10 = OFF - BATT ON - BATT + ALT ON
Right now I have the S700-2-3 switch in my design with the ALT FLD 5A breaker to
. I have a B&C L60amp primary alternator, with LR3C-14 Voltage regulator.
I also have the SD-8 amp as my backup alternator.
Thanks,
Howard
nuckollsr(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> A Back in the "good 'ol days" when airplanes were getting their first
> generators, batteries and a few lights, the battery master and generator control
switches could be and were separate switches. This is because a generator
will start and run by itself whether or not a battery was on
> line to go with it. When alternators came along, they needed (and still do
> need) a battery to get them to come up reliably. Further, alternators do not
run well without a battery on line. None the less, it was desirable to have some
degree of independent control of the battery and alternator
> insofar as system performance requirements would permit. This is when the
> split-rocker master switch was conceived. This switch has acquired almost magical
attributes.
> . . I've seen the red-rocker enshrined in prominent locations on the panels of
many homebuilts even when all other switches were a different style.
>
> A little study of the split rocker shows us that the battery can be on by
> itself, but the alternator cannot. The same functionality is provided by our
DP3T, on-on-on toggle switch (S700-2-10). Lower position is ALL OFF, mid position
is BAT ONLY, upper position is BAT+ALT. It's true that you could replace the
S700-2-10 with an S700-2-3 and turn on BOTH devices with a single throw of
the DC master switch. It's a rare in-flight condition that the
> alternator NEEDS to be off. If you're doing some battery-only ground maintenance,
then you could pull the breaker. We recommend the S700-2-10 as an alternative
to the split-rocker switch to provide equivalent functionality. The three
positions offer ALL OFF, BATTERY ONLY, and BATTERY + ALTERNATOR functionality
while making sure that the alternator is not allowed to be ON when the battery
is OFF - I.e. emulation of the split rocker
> switch.
>
> Bob . . .
--------
Howard Plevyak
GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio
hplevyak(at)mac.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384025#384025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Marenyi <marenyi(at)gmail.com> |
I have a question regarding wiring my Sonex/Great Plains VW engine. The
system has 1 battery (PC625 Odyssey) a CD Solenoid, A regulator/rectifier,
and a 3 phase 35 Amp alternator. I am using a MAG and a secondary ignition
and coil system. Instrument panel is rather simple with a Stratomaster
Ultra Horizon, and a Radio (not sure if I will use panel mounted or my Icom
A-22 handheld). I may use a GPS, or might just use my ipad. I plan on
installing a cigarette lighter power outlet or 2 and that is about the
extent of the panel electrics. I have no lights. If I use the panel radio I
will be mounting headset jacks on the panel as well and that might require
me to use a ground isolation, even though it would be easier and probably
more convenient to just ground straight to the firewall without isolation.
I was planning on grounding on the engine side with a bolt through the
firewall (need isolators?) where the negative battery, engine ground strap,
and alternator ground will attach. On the inside I wanted to use a forest
of tabs, but I think I would rather bring a negative buss closer to the
panel and locate it there. I also plan on running a positive buss close to
the panel as well. I have reviewed the appendix from the book and none are
really close to what I am looking for. I am trying to figure out the best
method to do this and also avoid radio noise later as well. The fewer wires
through the firewall the better. Aside from the main power and ground wire
penetrating the firewall I will also have the CD Solenoid power wire, the
starter solenoid wire
Please offer any info/help you can.
Thanks!
Eric M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need for an Alternator switch |
| From: | "bigginsking" <bjudge(at)gmail.com> |
I've got something similar to Z-8, with the SD-8 section deleted and a diode maintained
emergency battery that feeds the essential bus through a switch labeled
"critical"(actually it is a double pole, paralleled for capacity and reliability).
When I say "diode maintained battery" I mean the battery is fed from the main bus,
through a fuse rated at 150% of the 40A alternator capacity, then a diode
of similar capacity. The essential bus is fed through a second diode at the fuse
diode junction just as shown on Z-8 except for the addition of the already
mentioned fuse between the main and essential buss.
Z-8 switches the main alternator with the master but it seems redundant to have
the main bus switched from the contactor and at the same time switch the field,
especially when you consider they are mechanically tied to each other. With
Z-8, as it is, you're breaking/making the field circuit twice. Why? Didn't make
any sense to me so I deleted the main alternator switch.
I have a 5A pull breaker for the LR-3 regulator. That is the only breaker I have.
If I'm "on short final for the rocks" I just turn off the master and critical switches
that's everything including the alternator field.
I didn't know what that switch would add so I deleted it.
As an FYI, I'm also running dual electronic ignition. Those are fed via fuselink
directly from each battery. I have no vacuum pump, my instruments are electric,
although a GPS and the ADHRS have internal battery backups. I do fly IFR in
this plane.
I don't really care if certified aircraft have the alternator switch or not, the
question for everything I put in my plane is do I need it? What am I getting?
Bill Judge
N84WJ, RV-8 817 hrs
http://rv-8.blogspot.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384036#384036
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
I am beginning to work up an electrical plan for a friends Aircam project, twin
Rotax 912's with single battery. Anybody out there have a schematic they would
like to share for a twin engine rotax or similar to give me a starting point
to look over. I looked at the TECNAM P2006T but I don't think I need the complexity
of its system and I do not quite understand the Cross bus switch logic
they have. I attached for anyone who wants to comment on it.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
N919AR
RV-10 and Aircam helper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Switch confusion |
At 09:02 AM 9/26/2012, you wrote:
>
>Folks,
>In studying the various Z Architecture diagrams, I notice in some
>cases the S700-2-3 switch is used and in others the S700-2-10 is
>used. I understand the functionality differences.
>
>Can anyone tell me if there are operational reasons for using an
>S700-2-10 switch over the S700-2-3 switch? Or vice versa?
2-10 is progressive transfer that emulates the split-rocker
functionality. If you use 2-3 switch, then alternator
and battery come on and off together, alternator can only
be turned off by pulling the field breaker.
Either works.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
At 01:57 PM 9/26/2012, you wrote:
>I am beginning to work up an electrical plan for a friends Aircam
>project, twin Rotax 912's with single battery. Anybody out there
>have a schematic they would like to share for a twin engine rotax or
>similar to give me a starting point to look over. I looked at the
>TECNAM P2006T but I don't think I need the complexity of its system
>and I do not quite understand the Cross bus switch logic they have.
Obviously, this is a day, fair-weather, vmc fun
machine. There's no obvious value srtiving for
a very failure tolerant system. Suggest you wire
like figure Z16
http://tinyurl.com/7vp9g4e
Except you have two-fat wire feeders to the
starter contactors at the engines. These
same feeders just happen to be a good way
to bring each alternator in to the battery.
Run one alternator at a time with second
for back up.
> I attached for anyone who wants to comment on it.
Busy . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Millner <millner(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
>> I'm please to hear that you were able to salvage an otherwise
useless piece of expensive hardware!
Let me warn that there appears to be an error in the repair
description. The OP wrote battery acid, HCl. But of course, battery
acid is H2SO4.
I can believe a weak (3 molar?) solution of HCl, as is often used as
swimming pool acid or brick cleaning acid might dislodge organic
material from a pitot tube without dissolving the pitot tube itself. I
would be very surprised (would not likely believe) that battery acid,
full strength, undiluted sulfuric acid was able to do anything but
significantly dissolve a pitot tube...
Hopefully the OP can clarify what he meant, since his acid description
was internally inconsistent.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wynn" <wynaire(at)citlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged... |
Thanks, Paul. I stand corrected. The acid used was obtained directly from a
surplus supply left over from filling a new dry lead-acid car battery. The
container had been capped, but was at least one year old. I do not know the
strength of the solution. FWIW: The vinegar actually brightened the visible
copper more than the battery acid.
And thanks to all who contributed their improvised techniques to thwarting
insects from creating homes in small holes. Especially interesting was the
comment about using different colored tubing. With a bug-plugged
scupper-ring at the fuel fill port on a C337, the rain-water level will rise
above the lip of the fuel cap neck. Until the owner [me] realizes that he
has a plugged scupper vent line, the appearance of water in the fuel
tank/test is an interesting and humbling mystery. My fix in 2001 was to add
2 inches of clear Tygon tubing to each vent outlet. I figured that if the
bugs were there, I'd at least see them the next time. However, they never
returned. Now I know why. Thanks guys.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Millner" <millner(at)me.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Pitot tube slightly plugged...
>
> >> I'm please to hear that you were able to salvage an otherwise
> useless piece of expensive hardware!
>
> Let me warn that there appears to be an error in the repair description.
> The OP wrote battery acid, HCl. But of course, battery acid is H2SO4.
>
> I can believe a weak (3 molar?) solution of HCl, as is often used as
> swimming pool acid or brick cleaning acid might dislodge organic material
> from a pitot tube without dissolving the pitot tube itself. I would be
> very surprised (would not likely believe) that battery acid, full
> strength, undiluted sulfuric acid was able to do anything but
> significantly dissolve a pitot tube...
>
> Hopefully the OP can clarify what he meant, since his acid description was
> internally inconsistent.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
Thanks Bob, Z16 is where I was headed but wondered if I was missing something with
"twin engines". Definitely not a machine with a need for complexity.
One clarification... when you say run one alternator at a time do you mean just
switch one of the alternators off? How does keeping the designated backup off
improve system reliability or procedures?
Busy is a good word for the Tecnam.
-Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas
At 01:57 PM 9/26/2012, you wrote:
>I am beginning to work up an electrical plan for a friends Aircam
>project, twin Rotax 912's with single battery. Anybody out there
>have a schematic they would like to share for a twin engine rotax or
>similar to give me a starting point to look over. I looked at the
>TECNAM P2006T but I don't think I need the complexity of its system
>and I do not quite understand the Cross bus switch logic they have.
Obviously, this is a day, fair-weather, vmc fun
machine. There's no obvious value srtiving for
a very failure tolerant system. Suggest you wire
like figure Z16
http://tinyurl.com/7vp9g4e
Except you have two-fat wire feeders to the
starter contactors at the engines. These
same feeders just happen to be a good way
to bring each alternator in to the battery.
Run one alternator at a time with second
for back up.
> I attached for anyone who wants to comment on it.
Busy . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
At 06:14 PM 9/26/2012, you wrote:
>
>Thanks Bob, Z16 is where I was headed but wondered if I was missing
>something with "twin engines". Definitely not a machine with a need
>for complexity.
>One clarification... when you say run one alternator at a time do
>you mean just switch one of the alternators off? How does keeping
>the designated backup off improve system reliability or procedures?
>
>Busy is a good word for the Tecnam.
Those alternators are designed to run in parallel on a
single bus. Given the sledge-hammer approach to voltage
regulation, it probably wouldn't hurt anything. At the
same time, if one alternator crapped and both were on,
you wouldn't get a low voltage warning annunciating
the failure. You might land with a dead alternator
and not know it until next preflight.
Better to run one alternator at a time. If it craps,
you've got a second alternator which you'll turn on
when the low voltage warning light flashes . . .
you DO plane active notification of low voltage?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
CORRECTION
>Those alternators are NOT designed to run in parallel on a
>single bus.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring advice |
>If I use the panel radio I will be mounting headset jacks on the
>panel as well and that might require me to use a ground isolation,
>even though it would be easier and probably more convenient to just
>ground straight to the firewall without isolation.
I do not understand this statement.
>
>I was planning on grounding on the engine side with a bolt through
>the firewall (need isolators?) where the negative battery, engine
>ground strap, and alternator ground will attach. On the inside I
>wanted to use a forest of tabs, but I think I would rather bring a
>negative buss closer to the panel and locate it there. I also plan
>on running a positive buss close to the panel as well.
What are you calling a 'positive bus'? Are you using
breakers or fuses? The bus that distributes power to either of
those devices is a component of their fabrication
and installation.
> I have reviewed the appendix from the book and none are really
> close to what I am looking for. I am trying to figure out the best
> method to do this and also avoid radio noise later as well. The
> fewer wires through the firewall the better. Aside from the main
> power and ground wire penetrating the firewall I will also have the
> CD Solenoid power wire, the starter solenoid wire
>
>Please offer any info/help you can.
Please review the grounding philosophies illustrated
in Figure Z-15, View A
http://tinyurl.com/6m3bk8k
and Chapter 5 of the 'Connection. Then let us know in
what manner the techniques suggested present an
extra-ordinary problem for the assembly of your
airplane -or- do not meet new design goals.
If you have a design goals issue, we need to understand
what it is before well considered advice can be offered.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SD-8 S704-1 relay with or without Diode when using |
OVM-14?
| From: | "plevyakh" <hplevyak(at)mac.com> |
Guys,
I'm trying to finish up wiring of the backup SD-8amp alternator. In Z-10/8 the
S704-1 relay shows a jumper wire from COM to the + relay coil. The CROWBAR
OVM is then wired also across the coil (+) & (-) tabs.
B&C has a drawing that shows the S704-1 relay being wired with a Diode across the
coil.
Reference: http://www.bandc.biz/pdfs/S704-1_Installation.pdf
Am I correct in leaving the Diode OUT? The reason being that I'm using the OVM-14
across the coil and adding the Diode would defeat the OVM's function.
Thanks for your guidance.
Howard
--------
Howard Plevyak
GlaStar / North Bend, Ohio
hplevyak(at)mac.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384086#384086
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/s704_1_relay_bandc_625.gif
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z10_sd8_arch_snipit_197.gif
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lloyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Good news . . . and bad news |
Bob,
The graph did not show V and A legends on the pic that you included.
The 1562 that I recently purchased and put on a standard open cell 12v auto
battery had the following.
I monitored the batt. voltage with a DVM. The max chg. voltage went to just
under 14.1 v.
The stabilized float voltage was just under 13.1 v.
Does this seem about what you viewed on your tests...??
Dave
____________________________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 10:08 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Good news . . . and bad news
>
>
> I picked up the latest version of Schumacher's SEC1562
> charger at Wallyworld last week. Got it on a site-to-store
> free of shipping charges for about $21.
>
> The first plot for a charge cycle demonstrated the highly
> recommended bulk charge ramp capped off with an absorption
> charge plateau.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/9s7kpww
>
> I did a series of charge discharge cycles alternating between
> the 1562 and my 10+ year old Battery Tender. Wasn't paying
> much attention to details of the data. Each test cycle
> took 14+ hours.
>
> When I merged the data on to a common plot, it became obvious
> that the test battery, while relatively young, was incapable
> of delivering closely matched pairs of charge/discharge cycle.
>
> Normally, one expects a new SVLA battery to be good for
> several dozen deep discharges before demonstrated capacity
> begins to fall. Not so with the test article I've been
> using.
>
> Test results:
>
> I'm unable to resolve the difference between recharge
> performance of the 1562 versus the BT. Both chargers
> seem to put about as much snort into the battery but
> any real differences are buried in the uncertainties
> generated by the degrading battery.
>
> I can confidently assert that the SEM51562 is still
> an exceptional value. It now features 6/12 auto-switching,
> it charges at a rate about 2x that of the Battery
> Tender. I see that the BT Jr sells on Ebay for about $25
> with free shipping, so cost differential has dropped markedly
> over the past few years.
>
> Conclusion:
>
> I cannot claim that one device is superior to the other
> based on measurements. The recharge voltage profiles
> for the BT are markedly shy of the idealized profiles
> cited by industry. Just how much difference it makes
> remains unmeasured.
>
> Using a chemical conversation system as a 'transfer
> standard' for evaluation of charger performance is
> fraught with risk . . . which rose up and bit me.
>
> Anywho, I've got a shiny new 1562 that's going out
> to the wood shop to maintain some batteries I have
> stored out there. Next time I get my hands on a fresh,
> mid-sized SLVA battery, I'll try again. Don't throw
> out your Battery Tenders! I'm keeping all three of
> mine.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Help Troubleshooting |
| From: | Steve Thomas <lists(at)stevet.net> |
I ran the tests and it looks like I have a bad regulator. Test #4, where you check
the voltage of pin #4, failed. It was showing only 2.8 volts. I'll contact
B & C and figure out where to go. Thanks for the help, Bob.
Steve Thomas
________________________________________________________________________
On Sep 25, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Steve Thomas wrote:
>
> Not yet. Will do ASAP and reply.
>
>
> Steve Thomas
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 25, 2012, at 12:50 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
>
>> Have you run the traps on
>> the LR3 regulator per B&C documents?
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Resurrecting a battery |
Greetings list,
I have a couple of dead batteries. Not discharged but killed. They show
only approx 10.5-11 volts when taken off the charger. Ron was
discussing his experience with putting 15V at .5 amps on some batteries
and resurrecting them to some degree. I have a bench supply that I
could set at 15 V and .5 amps. My question is whether it will likely
damage the bench supply to hook it to a battery. My limited knowledge
says that it shouldn't make any difference to the power supply what is
hooked to it as long as it doesn't feed electrons to the supply.
I've got nothing to loose as far as the batteries are concerned, but I'd
hate to cook my bench supply. It's an old Heathkit IP-28 and says 30V
and 1amp so it shouldn't tax the supply too hard.
Just checking with the experts so I don't kill my power supply.
Thanks
--
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
Correction noted.
thanks
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: AIRCAM Schematic or ideas
-->
CORRECTION
>Those alternators are NOT designed to run in parallel on a single bus.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Angular Hall Effect Sensor |
| From: | "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com> |
Bob N,
The N305 Hall effect sensor is no longer available. It was specified in this article:
"Angle of Attack Indicator" by Dave Barker.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Angle_of_Attack/2008_12_21.pdf
The author has substituted part number SS49. His updated article is available here: http://www.barkeraircraft.com/files/AOA_rDisplay.pdf
Now for my question:
Can the SS49 HALL sensor be used to sense the angular position of a control surface,
specifically the horizontal stabilizer position on a Kitfox? The total
angular movement is only about 10 degrees. Ray Allen sells a linear POT for $35
that could be used. But I thought that a Hall Effect sensor would be a more
elegant solution with no moving parts, except for a magnet attached to the control
surface. The Specs for the SS49 are available here:
http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=3108&la_id=1&pr_id=36530
My friend who is building the Kitfox intends to install a Dynon SkyView EFIS.
It has 5VDC available to power the SS49. The SkyView also has a dedicated input
pin for elevator trim. Can the SS49 Hall sensor output be connected directly
to the SkyView 0 to 5vdc input without any buffering or amplifying circuitry?
The SkyView utilizes onscreen wizards for calibrating sensors.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=384114#384114
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
| From: | rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us |
Hi Ray
How many aH battery are they?
If close to 12 to 18aH aqnd AGM, the good bet would be to try and use the
500mA transformers and circuit board I sent along with the batteries I
offered. They limit current to ~ 500mA and the control board will turn
off once they reach ~ 15.4 volts. I would try a few cycles where you
bring down the batteries to ~ 12.4 volts. It may take several days to get
the control board to turn off, especially the first time.
If you have an adjustable power supply, set it to constant current ~ 350
to 500mAs and monitor the voltage. This is not going to be a very fast
process, it may take days to get to 15 volts. Once you get to 15.4 volts,
let it dwell there for 2 hours at least.
I Please report back if you were able to revive.
I did this with AGM batteries, if you have a flooded cell battery,
you don't have much to lose, but listen carefully and decrease
current if things get too bubbly. I tried putting two of the 500mA
chargers in parallel on the 12ah batteries and didn't like the noises
too much when the voltage got to the upper 14s on some of the batteries.
Using only one 5600mA charger kept things happy.
I have a sneaky suspicion that when I took two of the bad batteries I
had, after they reached the 15.4 volts and the controller turned off and
put them in parallel on just one 500mA charger and let them reach 15.4
volts (which took a long time) it may have helped a little, the first
time anyway. I didn't run a capacity test, but the voltage seemed to
hold up better after I let the batteries sit for several days.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
Ron, these are flooded cell auto batteries. One I think is a
deep-cycle. I put one of your transformers across the terminals and "It
don't work no more". That is what leads me to worry about the power supply.
I don't think that the power supplies I have are constant current. I
think the current setting is a max allowable setting, but I'm not sure.
By the way. I'm getting good use out of those batteries. Thanks again
for offering them here, even though it was more headache for you.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 09/27/2012 09:01 PM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
>
> Hi Ray
>
> How many aH battery are they?
>
> If close to 12 to 18aH aqnd AGM, the good bet would be to try and use
> the 500mA transformers and circuit board I sent along with the
> batteries I offered. They limit current to ~ 500mA and the control
> board will turn off once they reach ~ 15.4 volts. I would try a few
> cycles where you bring down the batteries to ~ 12.4 volts. It may take
> several days to get the control board to turn off, especially the
> first time.
>
> If you have an adjustable power supply, set it to constant current ~
> 350 to 500mAs and monitor the voltage. This is not going to be a very
> fast process, it may take days to get to 15 volts. Once you get to
> 15.4 volts, let it dwell there for 2 hours at least.
>
> I Please report back if you were able to revive.
>
> I did this with AGM batteries, if you have a flooded cell battery,
> you don't have much to lose, but listen carefully and decrease current
> if things get too bubbly. I tried putting two of the 500mA chargers in
> parallel on the 12ah batteries and didn't like the noises too much
> when the voltage got to the upper 14s on some of the batteries. Using
> only one 5600mA charger kept things happy.
>
> I have a sneaky suspicion that when I took two of the bad batteries I
> had, after they reached the 15.4 volts and the controller turned off
> and put them in parallel on just one 500mA charger and let them reach
> 15.4 volts (which took a long time) it may have helped a little, the
> first time anyway. I didn't run a capacity test, but the voltage
> seemed to hold up better after I let the batteries sit for several days.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
| From: | rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us |
Hi Ray
You mention that the transformer no longer works after you put it across
the battery. Was that with the circuit board connected to the
transformer? All you need to do is connect the board in reverse to the
battery for a split second and it fries the board. If that's the
case, I would say there is a good chance the transformer is still good.
You can connect the transformer directly to the battery without the
board. Just to make sure, connect a volt meter to the transformer to see
it's working and you get the polarity correct, if you have a meter
that can measure current, make sure you are pumping in 500m As or there
about. You will need to monitor the voltage, once you get to ~15.4, let
it go for another two hours.
How many amp hours are the batteries? If they are 35aHs, put two of the
500mA transformers on them in parallel.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angular Hall Effect Sensor |
At 08:59 PM 9/27/2012, you wrote:
>
>Bob N,
>The N305 Hall effect sensor is no longer available. It was
>specified in this article: "Angle of Attack Indicator" by Dave Barker.
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Angle_of_Attack/2008_12_21.pdf
>The author has substituted part number SS49. His updated article is
>available here: http://www.barkeraircraft.com/files/AOA_rDisplay.pdf
> Now for my question:
>Can the SS49 HALL sensor be used to sense the angular position of a
>control surface, specifically the horizontal stabilizer position on
>a Kitfox? The total angular movement is only about 10 degrees. Ray
>Allen sells a linear POT for $35 that could be used. But I thought
>that a Hall Effect sensor would be a more elegant solution with no
>moving parts, except for a magnet attached to the control
>surface. The Specs for the SS49 are available here:
>http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=3108&la_id=1&pr_id=36530
>My friend who is building the Kitfox intends to install a Dynon
>SkyView EFIS. It has 5VDC available to power the SS49. The SkyView
>also has a dedicated input pin for elevator trim. Can the SS49 Hall
>sensor output be connected directly to the SkyView 0 to 5vdc input
>without any buffering or amplifying circuitry? The
>SkyView utilizes onscreen wizards for calibrating sensors.
>Joe
>
>--------
>Joe Gores
A few months ago there was some discussion on the
List about incorporating some precision, non-contact,
rotary motion transducers to some of our applications
on OBAM aircraft.
Well, I'm aware of one company who has already packaged
the Austria-Microsystems magnetic sensors into a potentiometer
like package.
http://tinyurl.com/73sb7tc
They sell for less $ than I can afford to make them.
We'll be considering them to replace LVDT's in a new
design for a flap actuator. Parts count for the
new versus old system will drop by 30% or more.
Further, the ball bearing version of this device is
tailor made for low-friction sensing of vanes driven
by slip-stream.
The article cited could be easily converted to a uC
based product that would probably fit into our
15-pin, A15 Package
http://tinyurl.com/9ydoldk
The same sort of philosophy and packaging could
be used for trim and/or flap position idication.
I.e. one set of hardware with options for firmware
would fit 3 different systems on the airplane.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | AIRCAM Schematic or ideas |
At 08:51 PM 9/27/2012, you wrote:
>
>Correction noted.
>thanks
>Chris
If it were my airplane . . .
http://tinyurl.com/cf2ppmx
http://tinyurl.com/cg8falj
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good news . . . and bad news |
At 05:33 PM 9/27/2012, you wrote:
>
>Bob,
>The graph did not show V and A legends on the pic that you included.
Not sure which one you're referring to. I think this is the
plot I originally published.
http://tinyurl.com/d8yc8rw
>The 1562 that I recently purchased and put on a standard open cell
>12v auto battery had the following.
>I monitored the batt. voltage with a DVM. The max chg. voltage went
>to just under 14.1 v.
>The stabilized float voltage was just under 13.1 v.
>
>Does this seem about what you viewed on your tests...??
I need to spend some time building an interface for
one of the DAS modules I've acquired . . . to plot
both battery current and voltage. This will let me
do an integration by parts summation of watt-seconds
IN versus watt-seconds OUT.
By the way, I just became aware of a product from
Dataq
http://tinyurl.com/93obako
Price is hard to beat! One would need an instrumentation
amplifier to read current shunts . . . but the AD628 makes
that really simple. Just need a 36-hour day . . .
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
At 07:09 PM 9/27/2012, you wrote:
Greetings list,
I have a couple of dead batteries. Not discharged but killed. They
show only approx 10.5-11 volts when taken off the charger. Ron was
discussing his experience with putting 15V at .5 amps on some
batteries and resurrecting them to some degree. I have a bench
supply that I could set at 15 V and .5 amps. My question is whether
it will likely damage the bench supply to hook it to a battery. My
limited knowledge says that it shouldn't make any difference to the
power supply what is hooked to it as long as it doesn't feed
electrons to the supply.
Correct. Charging batteries with a bench supply is not without
some risk . . . depending on the design of the supply. I was
charging a 24 v battery with a big HP 40A supply when the power
went off. The HP's crowbar ov protection circuitry lost its reference
voltage and triggered. Unfortunately the crowbar system assumed
that the energy to be stood-off was coming from AC mains, not
from the load. Hence, the fuse was on the wrong side of the
crowbar and I burned some circuitry. I now charge batteries
through a fuse.
I'm not aware of any specific instances of potential hazard
to small bench supplies . . . I suspect it's very low.
I've got nothing to loose as far as the batteries are concerned, but
I'd hate to cook my bench supply. It's an old Heathkit IP-28 and
says 30V and 1amp so it shouldn't tax the supply too hard.
A brief look-see at the IP-28 schematic
http://tinyurl.com/ydhkrky
reveals no sneak paths that might make the supply vulnerable
to battery back-feed.
Just checking with the experts so I don't kill my power supply.
No biggie . . . but since you're not depending on the
supply for anything but boosting . . . don't really need
accurate regulation . . . putting a diode in series
with the supply totally eliminates any risk.
Now, probability for successful recovery with ANY supply
is problematic. The OVERVOLTAGE boost technique described
in Concorde literature and elsewhere is designed to stir
up chemistry that refuses to accept a charge at standard
voltage levels.
You can put a 100w light bulb in series with a diode
bridge rectifier and use this as a current limited source of
high voltage to hook to your battery(ies). Watch the voltage across
the battery. If the chemistry is coming awake, the voltage
should begin to drop and ultimately level off at normal
levels expected for a 1 amp constant current charge.
If the voltage doesn't show signs of dropping, the
chemistry isn't asleep but dead. By the way, the ol'
light-bulbs and rectifier ploy has an ancient history going
back to selenium rectifier days.
The rectifier need not be rated at any voltage greater
than terminal voltage for the battery. Charging current
is controlled by how many/big the light bulbs are.
I once built a battery charger with 4 bulb sockets on
a board along with a selenium bridge rectifier. With
200, 200, 100, and 50 watt bulbs in the sockets, I could
set charge rate between .5 and 5.5 amps by seating/unseating
the lamps in their sockets.
Of course, this is NOT regulated so you have to watch
terminal voltage and shut the critter off when charge
is complete. Left unattended it will boil off a battery.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
I had just taken a battery charger off the battery and used just the
transformer, with correct polarity.
They don't give an amp/hr rating but it is 675 cold cranking amps. It's
a marine starting/deep cycle battery.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 09/28/2012 01:21 AM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
>
> Hi Ray
>
> You mention that the transformer no longer works after you put it
> across the battery. Was that with the circuit board connected to the
> transformer? All you need to do is connect the board in reverse to the
> battery for a split second and it fries the board. If that's the case,
> I would say there is a good chance the transformer is still good. You
> can connect the transformer directly to the battery without the board.
> Just to make sure, connect a volt meter to the transformer to see it's
> working and you get the polarity correct, if you have a meter that can
> measure current, make sure you are pumping in 500m As or there about.
> You will need to monitor the voltage, once you get to ~15.4, let it go
> for another two hours.
>
> How many amp hours are the batteries? If they are 35aHs, put two of
> the 500mA transformers on them in parallel.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
On 09/28/2012 01:12 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> You can put a 100w light bulb in series with a diode
> bridge rectifier and use this as a current limited source of
> high voltage to hook to your battery(ies). Watch the voltage across
> the battery. If the chemistry is coming awake, the voltage
> should begin to drop and ultimately level off at normal
> levels expected for a 1 amp constant current charge.
Here's where my ignorance starts showing. Is this setup using mains
voltage? Rectified and current limited? 120+ volts DC, current limited
to 1-2 amps?
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Control Schematic - will it work? |
| From: | Nati Niv <n992dn(at)gmail.com> |
Bob
Sorry
I was out of the country on business trip, did not see your reply.
I totally agree with the KISS approach. The problem is that the moment you
ask for preset flap controller, it becomes hard to keep it simple, (unless
you employ some simple electronics)
See the simpler version of four positions flap controller that uses no
electronics beside few relays and diodes and it is not so confusing and
convoluted that the first one.
Will be happy to discuss.
Nati
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 12:06 PM, Robert Reed wrote:
> Nati,
>
> I looked at your diagram and was adimttedly very confused by it. It
> seemed to lose much of the desired KISS goal that I was trying to achieve
> but I didn't have the time to give it the attention it deserved. In
> subsequent discussions with a friend who has a plane like the one I am
> building the subject has turned to an even simpler design that didn't rel
y
> on step switches at all but simply used them for indicator lights. Sever
al
> people I have talked with preferred only the absolute limit switches with
a
> momentary switch for up and down only. They were recommending putting th
e
> switch on the stick so that it could be more easily activated without
> having to reach for a console switch. That has certain appeal but I have
> always found the switched on the controls to be somewhat unreliable and
> tried to stay away from them.
>
> I am still considering all alternatives and would be interested in seeing
> what you worked up though.
>
> Bob Reed
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Nati Niv
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wed, September 19, 2012 12:30:03 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Flap Control Schematic - will it work?
>
> Bob
>
>
> Couple of days ago Ii sent you a diagram of a design that should work. I
> understand from your silence that you are shocked from the complex and
> convoluted design J..... Since then I cleaned the diagram and came up
> with simplified design (only three relays, two of them are small, light
> duty ones)
>
>
> Let me know if you are interested
>
>
> Nati
>
> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:30 AM, Nati Niv wrote:
>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>> Here is something that will work for you: from any to any (position),
>> with limit switches and based on electromechanical (relays 7 of them
>> they can be very small) and 11 diodes, more complex but it will work
>> .
>>
>> For that to work properly you will need to modify the mechanical design
>> in a way that only one micro switch is make at a time, you will also hav
e
>> different LED indication compared to your design: only one LED will be l
it
>> at a time indicating current flap position.
>>
>>
>>
>> Have fun
>>
>> Nati
>> On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 11:41 AM, Nati Niv wrote:
>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Now, that I understand the mechanical design I have a solution includin
g
>>> to the =93moving from any position to any position up/down=94 can you s
end me
>>> the diagram in a format other than PDF and I will returned it corrected
?
>>> Now that I understand I really the simplicity of it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Nati
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 10:39 AM, Robert Reed wrot
e:
>>>
>>>> Nati,
>>>>
>>>> Sorry, I only showed the electrical and did not explain the mechanics
>>>> of the operation.
>>>>
>>>> The micro-switches will be located in a channel with the ability to
>>>> move them to adjust the positions. A slide bar will be attached to th
e
>>>> trim control arm. The slide bar will close each switch in line during
the
>>>> retract operation and open each in line during the extend. During the
>>>> retract operation only the retract circuit will be powered by the rota
ry
>>>> switch with the intent of full retraction and not stepped retraction.
>>>> During extension, only one circuit can be active at any time and that
>>>> circuit will close as soon as the slide bar passes the switch allowing
it
>>>> to open. The indicator lights will only light when the desired circui
t is
>>>> active and the switch is open. It should allow for either stepped fla
p
>>>> extension or full extension with one operation.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> *From:* Nati Niv
>>>> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> *Sent:* Fri, September 14, 2012 10:14:26 PM
>>>> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Flap Control Schematic - will it
>>>> work?
>>>>
>>>> Rob
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It will not work.
>>>>
>>>> I understand the KIS approach that leads you to use relays/micro
>>>> switches only. Unfortunately designing such thing will require some le
vel
>>>> of electronic involves and the reason for it is that you need to know
*at
>>>> all times* what the position of the flaps is because you need to tell
>>>> the motor to which direction to go, up/down. Using micro switch as a
>>>> location sensing lacks this capability, it =93senses=94 at only one po
sition,
>>>> the position to which you set it mechanically along the motor travel.
The
>>>> moment the motor moves from that position you have no indication of wh
ere
>>>> you are. The most common sense to use as sensing device would be a
>>>> potentiometer, and then you need some electronics to sense and compare
>>>> (comparators). I would even think basing the design on the LM3914 10 L
ED
>>>> driver.
>>>>
>>>> When it was time for me to change the flap system on my RANS 6 from
>>>> manual to electric I thought, as an electronic fan about deferent desi
gns
>>>> but eventually find myself using this:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.e-motionllc.com/Feedback_actuator_p/fa-po-150-12-2.htm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> As the actuator (it has built in potentiometer)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> And this as a controller.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/electronicsflapcontrolle
r.php
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> A little pricy, I know but works, I love every second flying the 6 wit
h
>>>> this arrangement
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Nati
>>>>
>>>> RANS 6
>>>>
>>>> Illinois
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 6:51 AM, Robert Reed wrote
:
>>>>
>>>>> All,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Attached is my plan for a flap control system using a Rotary 4
>>>>> position switch to control the flaps with LED indicators to show the
>>>>> position settings. The rotary switch will have a lever that not only
gives
>>>>> a tactile feel indicating position but will point to the LED. I beli
eve
>>>>> this setup will work but would like some review. I have also include
d
>>>>> absolute limit switched to ensure that an over-run will not occur due
to a
>>>>> bad relay.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob Reed
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>> om/Navigator?AeroElectric-List" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://
www.mhref="http://forums.matronics.com/" rel=nofollow target=_blank>h
ttp:/=========
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric
-List
>>>> ttp://forums.matronics.com
>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
> **http://www.matronics="http://forums.matronics.com/" rel=nofollow ta
rget=_blank>http://for========
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
>Here's where my ignorance starts showing. Is this setup using mains
>voltage? Rectified and current limited? 120+ volts DC, current
>limited to 1-2 amps?
Yes. Suppose the power coming into the back of your
house was being supplied by one of the honorable
T.A. Edison power stations . . . 120 volts DC.
Okay, 150 watt bulb will draw about 1.30 amps.
Now hook a 12v battery in series with this setup
such that current flowing through the lamp tends
to CHARGE the battery. Voltage across the
lamp drops by 12v or so the current drops a bit.
But the lamp still burns brightly and current
through the lamp is charging the battery . . . the
lamp becomes a 100W resistor.
Emacs!
Horribly inefficient?
Yes . . . unless you want to sit down and read a book
while the battery is charging and can make use of
the light output.
Now, consider a similar design goal but the power
delivered to the back of the house is AC. We can
add the rectifier such that reversal in the applied
voltage is rectified so that it always charges the
battery irrespective of line polarity . . . the lamp(s)
still limits the current . . . want a stronger charge
rate? More or bigger lamps.
Emacs!
Again, only 10% of total energy consumed goes into
the battery . . . but it IS current limited. Probably
not a charger you want to build for routine battery
maintenance but it is an option for generating a
current limited VOLTAGE source that will RISE to what ever
level the injured battery will accept. If it goes to more
than 2X battery rating and/or if it doesn't begin to
fall in a few minutes, then this resuscitation gambit
is futile and should be discontinued.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SD-8 S704-1 relay with or without Diode when |
using OVM-14?
>Am I correct in leaving the Diode OUT? The reason being that I'm
>using the OVM-14 across the coil and adding the Diode would defeat
>the OVM's function.
The diode will not affect OVM operation. Resistors
in the OVM are across the relay coil and provide
some damping action making the diode unnecessary.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Resurrecting a battery |
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