>  
      > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelect
      ric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Art Zemon
      > Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2016 6:34 PM
      > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      >  
      > Folks,
      >  
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a tou
      gh time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs of the pi
      ns when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin either one, pin or w
      ire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the cup. I end up with somethin
      g like this:
      >  
      > 
      > 
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      >  
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few conduct
      ors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or should I just give
       up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      >  
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      >  
      > --
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New smartphone app for pilots
From: 
"rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
      
      
      Hi Bill,
      
      You are absolutely right. These apps don't run on Android yet.  
      I am only a one man shop and that unfortunately requires setting 
      priorities.  I might, however, point out, in defense of my choice, 
      that it is only quite recently that a single Samsung 7 series was released
      with the barometer hardware. So it's not quite a massive
      market yet.  That being said, I do have a copy of the Xamarin cross-development
      system, and playing with it is in the queue.  Stay tuned.
      
      --------
      Ira N224XS
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460649#460649
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
From: 
"rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
      
      
      Be careful about dry joints, the solder should be bright and shiny all around 
      the joint.  If the wire is carrying just signal, clipping a strand or two should
      
      be fine (with adequate strain relief). Power carrying wire demand more 
      careful consideration about potential resistive heating and voltage drop.
      
      What I see missing in your picture is heat shrink tubing on each wire 
      pushed all the down to the connector's insulator block. I'll 
      assume it is not there just to illustrate the solder joints clearly.
      
      --------
      Ira N224XS
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460650#460650
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
From: 
john Snapp <matronics.list(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
      
      Rene' 
      I also prefer the mil spec crimp pins.  But when I solder the connectors I d
      o not tin first.  I strip the wire to fit, hold in place and solder in place
      .  It helps to have 4 hands.  I will often clamp the connector down and hold
       the wire in place with one of those alligator clip stands the solder a wire
       at a time.  
      
      or  
      
      strip...crimp....insert
      
      John Snapp
      
      +1.303.810.0600
      ( excuse the typos. This email was sent from a mobile device!)
      
      > On Sep 21, 2016, at 5:47 PM, Rene  wrote:
      > 
      > I prefer the crimp pins.  Easier to create the connector and easier to tak
      e it apart or change wires.  I have done way more of that then I would have e
      ver imagined when I build the plane.
      >  
      > Rene'
      > 801-721-6080
      >  
      > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelect
      ric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Art Zemon
      > Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2016 6:34 PM
      > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      >  
      > Folks,
      >  
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a tou
      gh time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs of the pi
      ns when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin either one, pin or w
      ire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the cup. I end up with somethin
      g like this:
      >  
      > 
      > 
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      >  
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few conduct
      ors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or should I just give
       up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      >  
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      >  
      > --
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New smartphone app for pilots
From: 
Bill Maxwell <wrmaxwell(at)bigpond.com>
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
      
      Thanks Ira, more strength to your elbow, as the Vikings might have said.
      
      Bill
      
      
      On 22/09/2016 11:13 AM, rampil wrote:
      >
      > Hi Bill,
      >
      > You are absolutely right. These apps don't run on Android yet.
      > I am only a one man shop and that unfortunately requires setting
      > priorities.  I might, however, point out, in defense of my choice,
      > that it is only quite recently that a single Samsung 7 series was released
      > with the barometer hardware. So it's not quite a massive
      > market yet.  That being said, I do have a copy of the Xamarin cross-development
      system, and playing with it is in the queue.  Stay tuned.
      >
      > --------
      > Ira N224XS
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460649#460649
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      The solder will wick down into the connection if done right.
      
      On Wed, Sep 21, 2016 at 9:22 PM, john Snapp 
      wrote:
      
      > Rene'
      > I also prefer the mil spec crimp pins.  But when I solder the connectors I
      > do not tin first.  I strip the wire to fit, hold in place and solder in
      > place.  It helps to have 4 hands.  I will often clamp the connector down
      > and hold the wire in place with one of those alligator clip stands the
      > solder a wire at a time.
      >
      > or
      >
      > strip...crimp....insert
      >
      > John Snapp
      >
      > +1.303.810.0600
      > ( excuse the typos. This email was sent from a mobile device!)
      >
      > On Sep 21, 2016, at 5:47 PM, Rene  wrote:
      >
      > I prefer the crimp pins.  Easier to create the connector and easier to
      > take it apart or change wires.  I have done way more of that then I would
      > have ever imagined when I build the plane.
      >
      >
      > Rene'
      >
      > 801-721-6080
      >
      >
      > *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [
      > mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > ] *On Behalf Of *Art Zemon
      > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 21, 2016 6:34 PM
      > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      >
      >
      > Folks,
      >
      >
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a
      > tough time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs of
      > the pins when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin either one,
      > pin or wire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the cup. I end up with
      > something like this:
      >
      >
      > 
      >
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      >
      >
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few
      > conductors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or should I
      > just give up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      >
      >
      > Thanks,
      >
      >     -- Art Z.
      >
      >
      > --
      >
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      >
      > *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      > am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
From: 
Kent or Jackie Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
      
      Do you really need 20 gauge?  22 or even 24 will do for many avionics.  If t
      he diagram calls for 20, I'd clip off a few strands.  It won't change the wi
      re resistance measurably and if it did, the D-sub acts as a heat sink.
      
      BTW, i would rather solder than fiddle with crimp pins.  I tin the cup, tin t
      he wire, then touch the side of the cup with the iron while gently pushing t
      he wire into the cup.  It normally slips right in.  You must hold your tongu
      e properly, of course.  :-)
      -kent
      
      > On Sep 21, 2016, at 8:33 PM, Art Zemon  wrote:
      > 
      > Folks,
      > 
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a tou
      gh time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs of the pi
      ns when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin either one, pin or w
      ire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the cup. I end up with somethin
      g like this:
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      > 
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few conduct
      ors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or should I just give
       up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      > 
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      > 
      > -- 
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
      
      On 9/21/2016 7:33 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
      > Folks,
      >
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a 
      > tough time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs 
      > of the pins when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin 
      > either one, pin or wire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the 
      > cup. I end up with something like this:
      >
      >
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      >
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few 
      > conductors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or 
      > should I just give up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      >
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      >
      > -- 
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      >
      > /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, 
      > what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
      Hi Art,
      
      For background, I went through several careers & a hobby or two with a 
      soldering iron in my hand. When I started wiring my RV-7, I saw no need 
      to spend the (relatively) big bucks on crimp style sub d's. After hours 
      of work with a soldering iron, and a couple of minor revisions to the 
      wiring, I threw in the towel & bought a batch of shells & machined pins. 
      I've obviously got the skills to do everything with the iron, but 
      crimped pins are *much* faster, and as others have mentioned, much 
      easier to make revisions/corrections to the wiring.
      
      If you decide to stick with solder, I'd suggest tinning the wire, but 
      not the terminal cup. Instead, try a dab of electronics grade flux paste 
      in the cup before inserting the wire. Make sure you've got a hot iron 
      with a clean & tinned tip. (Low heat and/or poor heat transfer can 
      damage components before solder flows properly.) I like to mate the 
      connector to a spare mate before starting the soldering process. That 
      way, if the plastic insulating body gets a bit too hot, the 'mate' will 
      keep the pins aligned. If you can keep the stripped area short enough, 
      you shouldn't need shrink over the pins.
      
      Good luck,
      
      Charlie
      
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
      
      
      -------- Forwarded Message --------
      Subject: 	Re: AeroElectric-List: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      Date: 	Wed, 21 Sep 2016 21:21:24 -0500
      From: 	Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
      
      
      On 9/21/2016 7:33 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
      > Folks,
      >
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a 
      > tough time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs 
      > of the pins when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin 
      > either one, pin or wire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the 
      > cup. I end up with something like this:
      >
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      >
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few 
      > conductors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or 
      > should I just give up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      >
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      >
      > -- 
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      >
      > /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, 
      > what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
      Hi Art,
      
      For background, I went through several careers & a hobby or two with a 
      soldering iron in my hand. When I started wiring my RV-7, I saw no need 
      to spend the (relatively) big bucks on crimp style sub d's. After hours 
      of work with a soldering iron, and a couple of minor revisions to the 
      wiring, I threw in the towel & bought a batch of shells & machined pins. 
      I've obviously got the skills to do everything with the iron, but 
      crimped pins are *much* faster, and as others have mentioned, much 
      easier to make revisions/corrections to the wiring.
      
      If you decide to stick with solder, I'd suggest tinning the wire, but 
      not the terminal cup. Instead, try a dab of electronics grade flux paste 
      in the cup before inserting the wire. Make sure you've got a hot iron 
      with a clean & tinned tip. (Low heat and/or poor heat transfer can 
      damage components before solder flows properly.) I like to mate the 
      connector to a spare mate before starting the soldering process. That 
      way, if the plastic insulating body gets a bit too hot, the 'mate' will 
      keep the pins aligned. If you can keep the stripped area short enough, 
      you shouldn't need shrink over the pins.
      
      Good luck,
      
      Charlie
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Stein Bruch <stein(at)steinair.com>
Date: 
Sep 21, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      YES
      
      On Wednesday, September 21, 2016, Charlie England 
      wrote:
      
      > On 9/21/2016 7:33 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
      >
      > Folks......
      >
      > Or should I just give up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      >
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      >
      > --
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      >
      > *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      > am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
      
      You and everyone else who hasn't spent a lot of time practicing soldering th
      em. Two choices. Keep trying until you get it right or my favorite:
      
      Get rid of the solder connectors and order some crimp ones. 
      
      Sebastien
      
      > On Sep 21, 2016, at 20:33, Art Zemon  wrote:
      > 
      > Folks,
      > 
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a tou
      gh time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs of the pi
      ns when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin either one, pin or w
      ire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the cup. I end up with somethin
      g like this:
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      > 
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few conduct
      ors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or should I just give
       up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      > 
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      > 
      > -- 
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
From: 
"racerjerry" <gnking2(at)verizon.net>
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
      
      
      To tin the wire, I first clamp the stripped wire into my padded vise.  After applying
      solder, I immediately wipe the tinned end to remove any excess solder.
       I use an old washcloth.  Reapply heat, pinch the rag between thumb and finger
      around the wire and pull straight off the conductor.  This should result in
      no stray strands and minimum solder.
      
      --------
      Jerry King
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460661#460661
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ryan Brown <ribrdb(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
Subject: 
Re: New smartphone app for pilots
      
      What? In 2012 there was a single Nexus model with a barometer. According to
      gsmarena.com it's now included in 132 Android phone models, including the
      S5 and S6. But we've also got dozens of free altimeter apps in the play
      store, so don't feel bad about leaving us Android folks hanging.
      
      On Wed, Sep 21, 2016, 7:25 PM rampil  wrote:
      
      >
      > Hi Bill,
      >
      > You are absolutely right. These apps don't run on Android yet.
      > I am only a one man shop and that unfortunately requires setting
      > priorities.  I might, however, point out, in defense of my choice,
      > that it is only quite recently that a single Samsung 7 series was released
      > with the barometer hardware. So it's not quite a massive
      > market yet.  That being said, I do have a copy of the Xamarin
      > cross-development system, and playing with it is in the queue.  Stay tuned.
      >
      > --------
      > Ira N224XS
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460649#460649
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      At 07:33 PM 9/21/2016, you wrote:
      >Folks,
      >
      >I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having 
      >a tough time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the 
      >backs of the pins when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I 
      >tin either one, pin or wire, I cannot get all of the conductors into 
      >the cup. I end up with something like this:
      
         Then don't 'tin' them first. In my Shop Note for dealing
         with solder-cup d-subs, I suggest tinning before dropping
         it into pre-filled cups. With 22AWG, the fits are not so
         tight and the process works well. When the stranding is
         tight, as with 20AWG, it's better to dry fit then solder.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      At 08:22 PM 9/21/2016, you wrote:
      >
      >Be careful about dry joints, the solder should be bright and shiny all around
      >the joint.
      
         . . .  which is easy to achieve with 63/37 solder featuring
         quality flux.
      
      >  If the wire is carrying just signal, clipping a strand or two should
      >be fine . . .
      
      
         I've attached 18 AWG wires to solder-cups by trimming
         back excess strands. This was a system with long runs
         of wire where voltage drop was an issue. There are
         companies that make special adapters to put too-large
         wires into 20AWG solder-cups but trimming the strands
         is more compact and works good too.
      
      >  (with adequate strain relief).
      
         The backshell is were wire-support takes place.
         Heat shrink is more of a hedge against pin-to-pin
         shorts by conductive contaminants . . . a thing
         that just doesn't happen in a clean work environment.
      
      >Power carrying wire demand more careful consideration
      >about potential resistive heating and voltage drop.
      
         Sort of . . . but pin-to-socket interface within
         the connector is the driving concern about path
         resistance. 20AWG wire is 10 milliohms per FOOT,
         22AWG is 16 mOhms/Ft. A single pin-to-socket
         interface on a d-sub can present 3 millioms of
         resistance over a millimeter. Variability in
         resistance between pin-to-socket interface within
         a connector gives rise to the prohibition for
         paralleling pins to increase current handling
         of any one path.
      
         I designed and qualified a paralleled d-sub pin
         process at Beech that was used in both targets
         and production aircraft. This involved EXTENDING
         each pin in a paralleled array with say 12" of
         22AWG wire before the pin-paths were joined in
         parallel. This ADDS 16 milliohms resistance to
         each 1-3 milliohm pin-to-socket variability.
         This 'ballasting' resistance forces the sharing
         of current across an array of paralleled pins.
      
         The short answer is that concerns for heating
         due to current flow reside in the pins . . .
         not the wires.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Speaking of solder . . .
      
      
      We've had many discussions on the List over the
      years concerning soldering materials, tools and
      techniques. I own perhaps a dozen tools intended
      to effectively heat solder and the target work
      piece(s).  I use solders of several types for
      both electronic and mechanical joining.
      
      For about the last 15 years, Metcal solder
      stations have been my favorite tools for
      joining everything from specks of electronic
      fly-dung on etched circuit boards to installing
      terminals on 4AWG wire. Metcal stuff has been
      readily available on eBay and I've pretty well
      outfitted the tool boxes of myself and relatives
      with these tools.
      
      I had recently had occasion to enhance a product
      development partner's tool compliment and decided
      to try a prominently promoted product line I saw
      on eBay.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/zddlb2t
      
      I bought one for the project . . . and a few
      months later, added another to my drive-stand
      bench. These have proven VERY capable. Good
      temperature control, good energy concentration
      at the tip, reasonably priced tips in range
      of sizes and shapes. I've found them to be
      a good value and more readily available than
      the older Metcal system products at similar
      prices.
      
      I think Hakko may be the Metcal of the Pacific
      Rim. They have a broad range of products
      and are widely represented. I can recommend
      them as an alternative to Metcal.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      At 07:33 PM 9/21/2016, you wrote:
      >Folks,
      >
      >I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having 
      >a tough time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the 
      >backs of the pins when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I 
      >tin either one, pin or wire, I cannot get all of the conductors into 
      >the cup. I end up with something like this:
      
         Art, if you do not have 63/37 solder of known
         pedigree, drop me your mailing address and
         I'll send you enough to do a handful of d-dsub
         jobs . . . having a good solder is 75% of the
         task, good iron is 20% thus making your probability
         of success in mastering the last 5% more of
         a sure thing.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New smartphone app for pilots
From: 
"rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 22, 2016
      
      
      So much for my Android "guru"
      Just out of curiosity, any of those play store apps
      have a kollsman window for altimeter setting and
      density altitude and performance computations?
      
      --------
      Ira N224XS
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460669#460669
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 23, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      Folks,
      
      Thank you for all of your advice. Last night, I did some more experimenting
      and achieved much better results. My solder-sucker doesn't completely clean
      out the old solder from the cups so I will try some solder wick tomorrow
      (no time tonight). I got most of the solder out, trimmed a few conductors
      from the wire, and was able to neatly and securing solder 20 AWG wires to
      pins. It was quick and I have connections that look safe and secure.
      
      In case you are curious, unless the solder wick works miracles, I will
      discard the DB-25 connectors that I have "messed up" and start from
      scratch. I am not driven by any irrational *need* to salvage these things.
      What I thought would be a simple assembly process has turned into a great
      learning exercise.
      
      I'll let you know how things go later this weekend.
      
      Cheers,
          -- Art Z.
      
      -- 
      http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Efraim Otero <efraim.otero(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
Date: 
Sep 23, 2016
      
      Art:
      Please send pictures so us newbies can compare thanks for 
      sharing!!
      E
      > On Sep 23, 2016, at 7:22 AM, Art Zemon  wrote:
      > 
      > Folks,
      > 
      > Thank you for all of your advice. Last night, I did some more 
      experimenting and achieved much better results. My solder-sucker doesn't 
      completely clean out the old solder from the cups so I will try some 
      solder wick tomorrow (no time tonight). I got most of the solder out, 
      trimmed a few conductors from the wire, and was able to neatly and 
      securing solder 20 AWG wires to pins. It was quick and I have 
      connections that look safe and secure.
      > 
      > In case you are curious, unless the solder wick works miracles, I will 
      discard the DB-25 connectors that I have "messed up" and start from 
      scratch. I am not driven by any irrational need to salvage these things. 
      What I thought would be a simple assembly process has turned into a 
      great learning exercise.
      > 
      > I'll let you know how things go later this weekend.
      > 
      > Cheers,
      >     -- Art Z.
      > 
      > -- 
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, 
      what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 23, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      At 07:22 AM 9/23/2016, you wrote:
      >Folks,
      >
      >Thank you for all of your advice. Last night, I 
      >did some more experimenting and achieved much better results.
      
         Yes . . . the learning curve is rather
         steep but it DOES take some practice . . .
      
      >  My solder-sucker doesn't completely clean out 
      > the old solder from the cups so I will try some 
      > solder wick tomorrow (no time tonight).
      
         I have solder-sukers . . . VERY SELDOM used
         except to open a plated through hole in a
         circuit board. Really most effective when
         powered by vacuum pump pulling on a heated
         tip attached to the end of a soldering iron.
      
      >  I got most of the solder out, trimmed a few 
      > conductors from the wire, and was able to 
      > neatly and securing solder 20 AWG wires to 
      > pins. It was quick and I have connections that look safe and secure.
      
         Good for you. Solder wick can be VERY effective
         but there are some pot-holes. The wicking needs
         to be FINE and impregnated with a good dry flus.
         There are many good ones and many more poor ones.
      
      
      >In case you are curious, unless the solder wick 
      >works miracles, I will discard the DB-25 
      >connectors that I have "messed up" and start 
      >from scratch. I am not driven by any irrational need=C2 to salvage these
       things.
      
         Try heating a solder cup then rapping the
         connector on the workbench to shake out the
         molten solder. I would hold the connector in
         a pair of pliers by the end-tab, heat the
         solder cup then 'whack' the piers on the
         bench with solder cup facing down. You'll
         find it is quite clean.
      
      
      >What I thought would be a simple assembly 
      >process has turned into a great learning exercise.
      
         My 'lifetime supply' of Chemtronics wick is holding
         up well so I'm out of school on current
         offerings. I'll order some samples of current offerings
         on 'solder wick' off eBay. It's a whole new bunch of
         players since I ordered any.
      
      
         Bob . . .  
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Current Status of third class medical reform
From: 
"rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 24, 2016
      
      
      Hi All,
      
      I'm switching hats here for a moment to my other pastime as a Senior
      AME to bring you a brief update on the POBR2 reforms. I enclose
      an article by Jim Frasier, the Federal Air Surgeon. I had several personal 
      chats with Dr. Frasier at the CAMA meeting last week and this article 
      tracks closely  what he told me. I will only add that the expectation is that 
      the NPR and public comment process will probably exceed the one year 
      mandate (and Inhofe knew this going in), but the new FAA regs once 
      published in the Federal Register will supersede the "no enforcement" clause.
      
      There is a lot in the air so to speak, that will not be settled until the major
      
      insurance carriers and underwriters publish for guidance both for aircraft
      hull insurance and for medical malpractice.  I know the EAA says everything
      will work out, but as the law is currently written with the exact wording of 
      the physician attestation at the end of the checklist, none of the docs I know
      will be covered by insurance for signing it and fully expect to be a litigation
      target as soon as there is a mishap.  Oddly enough some senators attempted
      to add liability protection for non-AMEs to the bill, but the committee rejected
      that amendment. So as it stands, in section 7, AME, DARs and DPE as shielded
      from civil actions, but not non-AME MDs. Further, according to the FAA
      legal guys, doing the checklist medical exam (instead of an FAA 3rd Class),
      is not considered being a representative of the FAA, so it will not be 
      covered by section 7. Catch 22.
      
      I'm just laying out the situation as it exists this week. I will not response
      to ad-homineum attacks.
      
      --------
      Ira N224XS
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460695#460695
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/faafas201602abridged_723.pdf
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Roger <rnjcurtis(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
Current Status of third class medical reform
Date: 
Sep 24, 2016
      
      
      I'm switching hats here for a moment to my other pastime as a Senior
      AME to bring you a brief update on the POBR2 reforms. I enclose
      an article by Jim Frasier, the Federal Air Surgeon. I had several personal
      
      chats with Dr. Frasier at the CAMA meeting last week and this article 
      tracks closely  what he told me. I will only add that the expectation is th
      at 
      the NPR and public comment process will probably exceed the one year 
      mandate (and Inhofe knew this going in), but the new FAA regs once 
      published in the Federal Register will supersede the "no enforcement" claus
      e.
      
      There is a lot in the air so to speak, that will not be settled until the m
      ajor 
      insurance carriers and underwriters publish for guidance both for aircraft
      hull insurance and for medical malpractice.  I know the EAA says everything
      will work out, but as the law is currently written with the exact wording o
      f 
      the physician attestation at the end of the checklist, none of the docs I k
      now
      will be covered by insurance for signing it and fully expect to be a litiga
      tion
      target as soon as there is a mishap.  Oddly enough some senators attempted
      to add liability protection for non-AMEs to the bill, but the committee rej
      ected
      that amendment. So as it stands, in section 7, AME, DARs and DPE as shielde
      d
      from civil actions, but not non-AME MDs. Further, according to the FAA
      legal guys, doing the checklist medical exam (instead of an FAA 3rd Class),
      is not considered being a representative of the FAA, so it will not be 
      covered by section 7. Catch 22.
      
      I'm just laying out the situation as it exists this week. I will not respon
      se
      to ad-homineum attacks. 
      
      Thanks for the update, IRA!!  It seemed that this had gone into a =9C
      Black Hole=9D and would not be seen again until a couple of thousand 
      pages of regs had been written, had you not come forward with your update. 
       Even if you can=99t show much progress, I and probably many more on 
      this list are interested in any tidbits of information that you can dole ou
      t.  Please fill us in whenever you receive an update.
      
      Roger
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Current Status of third class medical reform
From: 
"rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 24, 2016
      
      
      >From what I heard, the refs are mostly
      done and hew very close to the law congress wrote.
      After all, 70 senators and 200 some odd congressmen 
      signed it. It has to wind its way through layers of
      review at DOT etc before opening for public comment.
      
      --------
      Ira N224XS
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460697#460697
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 24, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      On Fri, Sep 23, 2016 at 9:29 AM, Efraim Otero 
      wrote:
      
      > Art:
      > Please send pictures so us newbies can compare thanks for sharin
      g!!
      >
      
      
      Efraim,
      
      Your wish is my command :-)
      
      Desoldering went well. Bob's suggestion to melt the solder and then wack
      the pliers-holding-the-connector on the workbench did the trick much better
      than the solder wick. I ended up with nice clean cups like this:
      
      
      I stripped the wire to the length that would fit into the pin. Here is a
      photo showing the scale (I am not going to solder this wire into the pin on
      the end).
      
      
      I set the wire into the pin and it stayed nicely in position all by itself,
      making the soldering super easy.
      
      
      Here is a photo with the red wire already soldered and the black wire set
      in place, ready to be soldered.
      
      
      With both soldered, I have connections that please me very much. They are
      mechanically solid, which gives me confidence that these will last the life
      of my airplane. (They actually look better in real life than in this photo,
      which has some terrible reflections.)
      
      
      Reinforcing my confidence in these connections, they were very quick. Since
      the wire set neatly and securely into the cups, total time to strip the
      wire, set it into the cup, and apply solder was well under 60 seconds.
      Previously, I had been fighting the wire and fighting with clamps to get
      everything to stay in position so that I could solder; it was taking me
      5-10 minutes per pin with lots of do-overs.
      
      Hat tip again to all of you who helped me. Thank you!
      
          -- Art Z.
      
      
      
      -- 
      http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 24, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      On Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 2:46 PM, Art Zemon  wrote:
      
      > On Fri, Sep 23, 2016 at 9:29 AM, Efraim Otero 
      > wrote:
      >
      >> Art:
      >> Please send pictures so us newbies can compare thanks for shari
      ng!!
      >>
      >
      >
      > Efraim,
      >
      > Your wish is my command :-)
      >
      
      
      One more photo. I disassembled and reassembled the first connector that I
      did (more than a week ago). I am much happier with this iteration:
      
      
      These wires are for the pitot tube heater. It draws 12 amps so I am using
      three pins each for power, plus one pin for the status lamp. These three 20
      AWG pigtails join to 12 AWG wire which runs the length of the wing.
      
      Cheers,
          -- Art Z.
      
      
      -- 
      http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 25, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      
      >
      >
      >[]
      >
      >
      >Reinforcing my confidence in these connections, they were very 
      >quick. Since the wire set neatly and securely into the cups, total 
      >time to strip the wire, set it into the cup, and apply solder was 
      >well under 60 seconds. Previously, I had been fighting the wire and 
      >fighting with clamps to get everything to stay in position so that I 
      >could solder; it was taking me 5-10 minutes per pin with lots of do-overs.
      >
      >Hat tip again to all of you who helped me. Thank you!
      
        You're gaining on it! My only impression now is that
        I would strive for better wetting/flow in the
        finished joints. Your iron temp may to too low.
      
        It could be a solder issue too. You said 60/40 . . .
        normally that alloy is quite satisfactory. Used it
        the first few decades of my solder slinging career.
        But I've had some 63/37 of some brands that did
        not behave optimally. What brand of solder are you
        using?
      
        I'll send you some solder Monday. What kind of
        iron are you using?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 25, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      At 05:44 PM 9/24/2016, you wrote:
      
      
      >On Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 2:46 PM, Art Zemon 
      ><art(at)zemon.name> wrote:
      >On Fri, Sep 23, 2016 at 9:29 AM, Efraim Otero 
      ><efraim.otero(at)gmail.com> wrote:
      >Art:
      >Please send pictures so us newbies can compare=85 thanks for sharing!!
      >
      >
      >Efraim,
      >
      >Your wish is my command :-)
      >
      >
      >One more photo. I disassembled and reassembled 
      >the first connector that I did (more than a week 
      >ago). I am much happier with this iteration:
      >
      >[]
      >
      >
      >These wires are for the pitot tube heater. It 
      >draws 12 amps so I am using three pins each for 
      >power, plus one pin for the status lamp. These 
      >three 20 AWG pigtails join to 12 AWG wire which runs the length of the
       wing.
      
         These joints look good. I would use 22AWG "ballast
         resistor" pigtails. Here you are actually using
         the wire as a resistor . . . the larger the better
         from the standpoint of sharing loads across an
         array of pins. Also, be aware that the legacy
         heated pitot tubes have a strong temperature
         coefficient. A typical pitot heater for a Beechejt
         is 1.5 ohms at 0C . . . a time when the tube is
         likely to be turned on. 28V/1.5 ohms is 18A start
         up current. When the heater gets to 100C (typical
         high altitude condition) it goes to 2.2 ohms
         for 12.7A running current. 14v probes behave similarly
         at about 2x the current.
      
         What kind of probe are we talking about?
      
         If you've lots of unused pins in this connector,
         it wouldn't hurt to use 5 or 6 pins per path
         and I'd certainly drop to 22AWG ballast wires.
         Another thing to consider for the solder-cup
         connector is the form of the female pins in
         the connector . . . not quite as robust and
         uniform their crimp style cousins . . . so
         extra pins if available wouldn't hurt a thing.
      
         The work we did at Beech was entirely with
         crimped pins. I'm not suggesting that your
         design goals cannot be met with this connector,
         just that I have no experience with the parallel
         pins in the commercial connectors so if there
         are unused pins in the connector, bringing
         them into harness with the three already in
         service is not a bad thing to consider.
      
         The extra wire is a 'sense' wire? What does
         it do for you?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 25, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 3:43 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      >
      >
      > [image: []]
      >
      >
      > Reinforcing my confidence in these connections, they were very quick.
      > Since the wire set neatly and securely into the cups, total time to strip
      > the wire, set it into the cup, and apply solder was well under 60 seconds.
      > Previously, I had been fighting the wire and fighting with clamps to get
      > everything to stay in position so that I could solder; it was taking me
      > 5-10 minutes per pin with lots of do-overs.
      >
      > Hat tip again to all of you who helped me. Thank you!
      >
      >
      >  You're gaining on it! My only impression now is that
      >  I would strive for better wetting/flow in the
      >  finished joints. Your iron temp may to too low.
      >
      >  It could be a solder issue too. You said 60/40 . . .
      >  normally that alloy is quite satisfactory. Used it
      >  the first few decades of my solder slinging career.
      >  But I've had some 63/37 of some brands that did
      >  not behave optimally. What brand of solder are you
      >  using?
      >
      >  I'll send you some solder Monday. What kind of
      >  iron are you using?
      >
      
      
      Bob,
      
      I am using a Weller WES51. I have been setting it at 650 when butt splicing
      wires and bumped up to 700 degrees for the DB-25 pins. I can certainly try
      something hotter. I was worried about damaging the connector.
      
      I have two tips for the iron, the one that came with it and an extra narrow
      tip that I also bought. I find that extra narrow tip easier to control when
      working on the DB-25 pins but it doesn't transfer heat as well.
      
      I am using Kester 60/40 solder.
      
      Cheers,
          -- Art Z.
      
      -- 
      http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 25, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 4:07 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 05:44 PM 9/24/2016, you wrote:
      >
      >
      > On Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 2:46 PM, Art Zemon  wrote:
      >
      > On Fri, Sep 23, 2016 at 9:29 AM, Efraim Otero 
      > wrote:
      > Art:
      > Please send pictures so us newbies can compare thanks for sharin
      g!!
      >
      >
      > Efraim,
      >
      > Your wish is my command :-)
      >
      >
      > One more photo. I disassembled and reassembled the first connector that I
      > did (more than a week ago). I am much happier with this iteration:
      >
      > [image: []]
      >
      > These wires are for the pitot tube heater. It draws 12 amps so I am using
      > three pins each for power, plus one pin for the status lamp. These three 
      20
      > AWG pigtails join to 12 AWG wire which runs the length of the wing.
      >   These joints look good. I would use 22AWG "ballast
      >   resistor" pigtails. Here you are actually using
      >   the wire as a resistor . . . the larger the better
      >   from the standpoint of sharing loads across an
      >   array of pins. Also, be aware that the legacy
      >   heated pitot tubes have a strong temperature
      >   coefficient. A typical pitot heater for a Beechejt
      >   is 1.5 ohms at 0C . . . a time when the tube is
      >   likely to be turned on. 28V/1.5 ohms is 18A start
      >   up current. When the heater gets to 100C (typical
      >   high altitude condition) it goes to 2.2 ohms
      >   for 12.7A running current. 14v probes behave similarly
      >   at about 2x the current.
      >
      >   What kind of probe are we talking about?
      >
      >   If you've lots of unused pins in this connector,
      >   it wouldn't hurt to use 5 or 6 pins per path
      >   and I'd certainly drop to 22AWG ballast wires.
      >   Another thing to consider for the solder-cup
      >   connector is the form of the female pins in
      >   the connector . . . not quite as robust and
      >   uniform their crimp style cousins . . . so
      >   extra pins if available wouldn't hurt a thing.
      >
      >   The work we did at Beech was entirely with
      >   crimped pins. I'm not suggesting that your
      >   design goals cannot be met with this connector,
      >   just that I have no experience with the parallel
      >   pins in the commercial connectors so if there
      >   are unused pins in the connector, bringing
      >   them into harness with the three already in
      >   service is not a bad thing to consider.
      >
      >   The extra wire is a 'sense' wire? What does
      >   it do for you?
      >
      
      
      Bob,
      
      I'm glad that those connections look better. The other ones that you
      criticized were my first two. I'll go back and rework them.
      
      I am planning a Dynon heated pitot tube. Here is my wiring diagram,
      including the warning lamp:
      =8B
       pitot.pdf
      
      =8B
      Dynon says that that lamp will illuminate if the heater fails.
      
      I have plenty of spare pins in the connector. See my connector "diagram"
      =8B
       wing root connectors.pdf
      
      =8B
      Dynon says 11-12 A for the heater so I planned on 3 pins @ 5 A per pin.
      
      I'll have to buy some more 22 AWG wire if I am going to switch the ballast
      wires. Do you see any reason why I cannot buy 22 AWG wire locally (which
      won't be tefzel insulated) instead of mail ordering a small amount of
      tefzel wire? I can't think of any reason to prefer one insulation material
      over another for this application.
      
      Cheers,
          -- Art Z.
      
      -- 
      http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 25, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      
      >
      >Bob,
      >
      >I am using a Weller WES51. I have been setting 
      >it at 650 when butt splicing wires and bumped up 
      >to 700 degrees for the DB-25 pins. I can 
      >certainly try something hotter. I was worried about damaging the
       connector.=C2
      
         700 is fine
      
      
      >I have two tips for the iron, the one that came 
      >with it and an extra narrow tip that I also 
      >bought. I find that extra narrow tip easier to 
      >control when working on the DB-25 pins but it doesn't transfer heat as
       well.
      >
      >I am using Kester 60/40 solder.=C2
      
         Okay . . . you're 95% of the way there.
         All that's left is to refine your technique.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 25, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      
      >I'll have to buy some more 22 AWG wire if I am going to switch the 
      >ballast wires. Do you see any reason why I cannot buy 22 AWG wire 
      >locally (which won't be tefzel insulated) instead of mail ordering a 
      >small amount of tefzel wire? I can't think of any reason to prefer 
      >one insulation material over another for this application.
      
          I've packaged up enough 22AWG tefzel for this
          task. You may have it Tues, Wed for sure.
      
          I'd not kept track of Dynon's product line. Looks
          like their pitot tube is electronically controlled
          using a technique I proposed to Beech upteen years
          ago you duty cycle switch power to the heater
          (except that the OFF current is regulated to some
          very low value and accurately known). You measure
          voltage across the heater during off-time and
          you can deduce the heater's present temperature.
      
          I did a bunch of studies on pitot tubes used on
          the Beechjet during an analysis of loss of airspeed
          events. Turns out that these things are really
          easy to regulate by this methodology. I'm guessing
          that Dynon has exploited the smart controller's
          software to include soft-start during warm-up.
          Hence, extra-robust wiring for inrush mitigation
          is not necessary. But better ballasting of the
          pins . . . and adding some to the mix is  not
          a bad idea.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
Subject: 
solder splices
      
      hi all,
       i know solder connections are generally frowned on, especially in engine
      compartment but my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 6'' run with
      the wire bundled with 6 others is that it is totally satisfactory. am i
      wrong that solder is ok if you pick your application sites?
       bob noffs
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Roger <rnjcurtis(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
solder splices
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
      
      
      =C2-i know solder connections are generally frowned on, especially in eng
      ine compartment but my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 6'' run w
      ith the wire bundled with 6 others is that it is totally satisfactory. am i
       wrong that solder is ok if you pick your application sites?
      
      I was never aware that solder connections were frowned upon!  In fact my be
      lief is that a well executed solder connection, with good mechanical connec
      tion, good solder flow, and a double insulation with heat shrink, is in fac
      t more reliable than any other connection, over the long term.  Just my hum
      ble opinion!
      
      Roger
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Efraim Otero <efraim.otero(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
      
      Thanks!! I got a lot to learn!!
      
      > On Sep 24, 2016, at 5:44 PM, Art Zemon  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > On Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 2:46 PM, Art Zemon > wrote:
      > On Fri, Sep 23, 2016 at 9:29 AM, Efraim Otero > wrote:
      > Art:
      > Please send pictures so us newbies can compare thanks for 
      sharing!!
      > 
      > 
      > Efraim,
      > 
      > Your wish is my command :-)
      > 
      > 
      > One more photo. I disassembled and reassembled the first connector 
      that I did (more than a week ago). I am much happier with this 
      iteration:
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > These wires are for the pitot tube heater. It draws 12 amps so I am 
      using three pins each for power, plus one pin for the status lamp. These 
      three 20 AWG pigtails join to 12 AWG wire which runs the length of the 
      wing.
      > 
      > Cheers,
      >     -- Art Z.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > -- 
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, 
      what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sauli Aalto <sauli.aalto(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors
      
      I found a good old method here:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8
      
      2016-09-22 2:33 GMT+02:00 Art Zemon :
      
      > Folks,
      >
      > I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a
      > tough time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs of
      > the pins when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin either one,
      > pin or wire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the cup. I end up with
      > something like this:
      >
      >
      > I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
      >
      > If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few
      > conductors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or should I
      > just give up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
      >
      > Thanks,
      >     -- Art Z.
      >
      > --
      > http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      >
      > *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      > am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Ross Home" <rossmickey(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Running Multiple Devices from One Serial Port Output
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
      
      I am trying to hook my altitude encoder to my transponder and GPS.  I 
      have the TX and RX going to the right places but am wondering what I 
      have to do with the grounds.  Here are the connections.
      
      
      Serial Port 1 TX Encoder to Serial Port 1 RX Transponder
      
      Serial Port 1 GND Encoder to Serial Port 1 GND Transponder
      
      
      Serial Port 1 TX Encoder to Serial Port 2 RX GPS
      
      Serial Port 2 TX GPS to Serial Port 2 RX MX-20 Multifunctional Display
      
      Serial Port 2 GND GPS to Serial Port 2 GND MX-20 Multifunctional Display
      
      
      Will this work or do the different serial grounds screw things up?
      
      
      Ross Mickey
      
      RV-6A
      
      N9PT
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
      Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 8:18 AM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: solder splices
      
      
       i know solder connections are generally frowned on, especially in 
      engine compartment but my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 6'' 
      run with the wire bundled with 6 others is that it is totally 
      satisfactory. am i wrong that solder is ok if you pick your application 
      sites?
      
      
      I was never aware that solder connections were frowned upon!  In fact my 
      belief is that a well executed solder connection, with good mechanical 
      connection, good solder flow, and a double insulation with heat shrink, 
      is in fact more reliable than any other connection, over the long term.  
      Just my humble opinion!
      
      
      Roger
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: 
Running Multiple Devices from One Serial Port Output
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
      
      I may be wrong, but do serial ports have a port ground?  I have a GRT 
      system and each serial port has an in and out..but no separate 
      ground.  In this case the serial out would be one wire going to wherever 
      you want..to its serial in.
      
      
      Rene'
      
      801-721-6080
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ross 
      Home
      Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 4:45 PM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Running Multiple Devices from One Serial 
      Port Output
      
      
      I am trying to hook my altitude encoder to my transponder and GPS.  I 
      have the TX and RX going to the right places but am wondering what I 
      have to do with the grounds.  Here are the connections.
      
      
      Serial Port 1 TX Encoder to Serial Port 1 RX Transponder
      
      Serial Port 1 GND Encoder to Serial Port 1 GND Transponder
      
      
      Serial Port 1 TX Encoder to Serial Port 2 RX GPS
      
      Serial Port 2 TX GPS to Serial Port 2 RX MX-20 Multifunctional Display
      
      Serial Port 2 GND GPS to Serial Port 2 GND MX-20 Multifunctional Display
      
      
      Will this work or do the different serial grounds screw things up?
      
      
      Ross Mickey
      
      RV-6A
      
      N9PT
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
      Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 8:18 AM
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: solder splices
      
      
       i know solder connections are generally frowned on, especially in 
      engine compartment but my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 6'' 
      run with the wire bundled with 6 others is that it is totally 
      satisfactory. am i wrong that solder is ok if you pick your application 
      sites?
      
      
      I was never aware that solder connections were frowned upon!  In fact my 
      belief is that a well executed solder connection, with good mechanical 
      connection, good solder flow, and a double insulation with heat shrink, 
      is in fact more reliable than any other connection, over the long term.  
      Just my humble opinion!
      
      
      Roger
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
Subject: 
Connecting Shielded Cable to DB-25
      
      Folks,
      
      I need to connect a shielded cable to my DB-25 connector and I need some
      advice about how to physically construct this. Here is the wiring diagram
      =8B
       strobe position lights.pdf
      
      =8B
      I am concerned with the construction of wires LIGHTS-1-C and LIGHTS-1-D at
      the wing root. Specifically, the center conductor of the cable is to be
      connected to a pin in the DB-25. The shield is to be connected to a local
      ground. This connector (when operating) will be inside the tubular spar of
      my Bede BD-4C, so the whole assembly will be well shielded; I'm not worried
      about how many unshielded inches I have near the DB-25.
      
      This is what I think will work: Strip the outer insulation of the shielded
      cable back several inches, so that I can separate the shield from the
      center conductor outside the DB-25 housing. Solder a sufficient amount of
      wire to the shield so that I can work with it and attach it to the local
      ground. Run the center conductor to the DB-25 and connect it to a pin just
      like any other wire.
      
      Your thoughts?
      
      Thank you,
          -- Art Z.
      
      -- 
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Connecting Shielded Cable to DB-25
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 26, 2016
      
      On 9/26/2016 9:05 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
      > Folks,
      >
      > I need to connect a shielded cable to my DB-25 connector and I need 
      > some advice about how to physically construct this. Here is the wiring 
      > diagram
      > 
      > strobe position lights.pdf 
      > 
      > 
      > I am concerned with the construction of wires LIGHTS-1-C and 
      > LIGHTS-1-D at the wing root. Specifically, the center conductor of the 
      > cable is to be connected to a pin in the DB-25. The shield is to be 
      > connected to a local ground. This connector (when operating) will be 
      > inside the tubular spar of my Bede BD-4C, so the whole assembly will 
      > be well shielded; I'm not worried about how many unshielded inches I 
      > have near the DB-25.
      >
      > This is what I think will work: Strip the outer insulation of the 
      > shielded cable back several inches, so that I can separate the shield 
      > from the center conductor outside the DB-25 housing. Solder a 
      > sufficient amount of wire to the shield so that I can work with it and 
      > attach it to the local ground. Run the center conductor to the DB-25 
      > and connect it to a pin just like any other wire.
      >
      > Your thoughts?
      >
      > Thank you,
      >     -- Art Z.
      >
      > -- 
      > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      >
      > /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, 
      > what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
      Art,
      
      I believe Bob has a 'cookbook' page showing that technique for handling 
      shields at sub-d connectors. You should be fine.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Connecting Shielded Cable to DB-25
Date: 
Sep 27, 2016
      
      I would connect the shield to ground at the wing tip end Art, not at the win
      g root end. 
      
      Sebastien
      
      > On Sep 27, 2016, at 03:05, Art Zemon  wrote:
      > 
      > Folks,
      > 
      > I need to connect a shielded cable to my DB-25 connector and I need some a
      dvice about how to physically construct this. Here is the wiring diagram
      > =8B
      >  strobe position lights.pdf
      > =8B
      > I am concerned with the construction of wires LIGHTS-1-C and LIGHTS-1-D at
       the wing root. Specifically, the center conductor of the cable is to be con
      nected to a pin in the DB-25. The shield is to be connected to a local groun
      d. This connector (when operating) will be inside the tubular spar of my Bed
      e BD-4C, so the whole assembly will be well shielded; I'm not worried about h
      ow many unshielded inches I have near the DB-25.
      > 
      > This is what I think will work: Strip the outer insulation of the shielded
       cable back several inches, so that I can separate the shield from the cente
      r conductor outside the DB-25 housing. Solder a sufficient amount of wire to
       the shield so that I can work with it and attach it to the local ground. Ru
      n the center conductor to the DB-25 and connect it to a pin just like any ot
      her wire.
      > 
      > Your thoughts?
      > 
      > Thank you,
      >     -- Art Z.
      > 
      > -- 
      > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Connecting Shielded Cable to DB-25
Date: 
Sep 27, 2016
      
      Whoops, disregard last message, I see you are talking about the wire from th
      e cabin. Any reason you can't just ground it at the switch?
      
      Sebastien
      
      > On Sep 27, 2016, at 03:05, Art Zemon  wrote:
      > 
      > Folks,
      > 
      > I need to connect a shielded cable to my DB-25 connector and I need some a
      dvice about how to physically construct this. Here is the wiring diagram
      > =8B
      >  strobe position lights.pdf
      > =8B
      > I am concerned with the construction of wires LIGHTS-1-C and LIGHTS-1-D at
       the wing root. Specifically, the center conductor of the cable is to be con
      nected to a pin in the DB-25. The shield is to be connected to a local groun
      d. This connector (when operating) will be inside the tubular spar of my Bed
      e BD-4C, so the whole assembly will be well shielded; I'm not worried about h
      ow many unshielded inches I have near the DB-25.
      > 
      > This is what I think will work: Strip the outer insulation of the shielded
       cable back several inches, so that I can separate the shield from the cente
      r conductor outside the DB-25 housing. Solder a sufficient amount of wire to
       the shield so that I can work with it and attach it to the local ground. Ru
      n the center conductor to the DB-25 and connect it to a pin just like any ot
      her wire.
      > 
      > Your thoughts?
      > 
      > Thank you,
      >     -- Art Z.
      > 
      > -- 
      > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      > 
      > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 27, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Connecting Shielded Cable to DB-25
      
      On Mon, Sep 26, 2016 at 9:32 PM, Charlie England 
      wrote:
      
      > On 9/26/2016 9:05 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
      >
      > Folks,
      >
      > I need to connect a shielded cable to my DB-25 connector and I need some
      > advice about how to physically construct this....
      >
      > Art,
      >
      > I believe Bob has a 'cookbook' page showing that technique for handling
      > shields at sub-d connectors. You should be fine.
      >
      
      
      I found it: Shield Termination Techniques
      <http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html>
      
      I can adapt that nicely. Thank you, Charlie.
      
          -- Art Z.
      
      
      -- 
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 27, 2016
Subject: 
Re: solder splices
      
      i agree that the joint if undisturbed can't be beat. i was questioning if
      movement would become a factor in the condition i described.
       bob noffs
      
      On Mon, Sep 26, 2016 at 10:17 AM, Roger  wrote:
      
      >
      >
      >  i know solder connections are generally frowned on, especially in engine
      > compartment but my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 6'' run with
      > the wire bundled with 6 others is that it is totally satisfactory. am i
      > wrong that solder is ok if you pick your application sites?
      >
      >
      > *I was never aware that solder connections were frowned upon!  In fact my
      > belief is that a well executed solder connection, with good mechanical
      > connection, good solder flow, and a double insulation with heat shrink, is
      > in fact more reliable than any other connection, over the long term.  Just
      > my humble opinion!*
      >
      >
      > *Roger*
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 27, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: solder splices
      
      At 07:07 AM 9/26/2016, you wrote:
      >hi all,
      >=C2 i know solder connections are generally 
      >frowned on, especially in engine compartment but 
      >my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 
      >6'' run with the wire bundled with 6 others is 
      >that it is totally satisfactory. am i wrong that 
      >solder is ok if you pick your application sites?
      >=C2 bob noffs
      
         I don't know why it wouldn't be just fine ANYWHERE
         the materials, talents and tools are likely to
         produce a serviceable joining . . . irrespective
         of location.
      
         Soldering was 'frowned upon' on the 1960's
         production lines at Cessna because soldering irons
         burned people and melted carpets. At Boeing, I had
         to have a fireman come out and give me a permit
         to plug in an iron . . . just to make sure I wasn't
         working the task close to flammables.  It's process
         sensitive (meaning you gotta have the moves).
         But an artfully crafted solder joint is no
         more/less risky to meeting design goals than
         a crimped connection.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 27, 2016
Subject: 
Re: solder splices
      
      ok, away we go. i like my soldered joints more than any crimped joint cuz i
      made them.
       bob
      
      On Tue, Sep 27, 2016 at 7:36 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 07:07 AM 9/26/2016, you wrote:
      >
      > hi all,
      > =C3=82 i know solder connections are generally frowned on, especially in 
      engine
      > compartment but my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 6'' run wit
      h
      > the wire bundled with 6 others is that it is totally satisfactory. am i
      > wrong that solder is ok if you pick your application sites?
      > =C3=82 bob noffs
      >
      >
      >   I don't know why it wouldn't be just fine ANYWHERE
      >   the materials, talents and tools are likely to
      >   produce a serviceable joining . . . irrespective
      >   of location.
      >
      >   Soldering was 'frowned upon' on the 1960's
      >   production lines at Cessna because soldering irons
      >   burned people and melted carpets. At Boeing, I had
      >   to have a fireman come out and give me a permit
      >   to plug in an iron . . . just to make sure I wasn't
      >   working the task close to flammables.  It's process
      >   sensitive (meaning you gotta have the moves).
      >   But an artfully crafted solder joint is no
      >   more/less risky to meeting design goals than
      >   a crimped connection.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 28, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: solder splices
      
      At 06:55 PM 9/27/2016, you wrote:
      >ok, away we go. i like my soldered joints more than any crimped 
      >joint cuz i made them.
      
         Understand.
      
         See http://tinyurl.com/dgg2nb if you haven't already.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 28, 2016
Subject: 
Re: solder splices
      
      The stress riser that occurs at the interface between wire strands and
      solder filled wire strands if not mechanically supported is a candidate for
      fatigue failure due to vibration induced flexing.
      
      This is true of field splices and soldiered pin/wire connection.
      
      Good mechanical support/strain relief is imperative to prevent fatigue
      failure of the connection/soldier joint.
      
      A good crimped connection does see a stress riser at the crimp/wire
      interface... BUT the transition is not as sharp as with soldier wicked into
      wire strands.  Crimped pins the wire are generally supported upstream from
      the crimp thus creating a mechanical support for the connection.
      
      Chris Stone
      
      
      On Tue, Sep 27, 2016 at 5:36 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 07:07 AM 9/26/2016, you wrote:
      >
      > hi all,
      > =C3=82 i know solder connections are generally frowned on, especially in 
      engine
      > compartment but my take on a solder splice in the middle of a 6'' run wit
      h
      > the wire bundled with 6 others is that it is totally satisfactory. am i
      > wrong that solder is ok if you pick your application sites?
      > =C3=82 bob noffs
      >
      >
      >   I don't know why it wouldn't be just fine ANYWHERE
      >   the materials, talents and tools are likely to
      >   produce a serviceable joining . . . irrespective
      >   of location.
      >
      >   Soldering was 'frowned upon' on the 1960's
      >   production lines at Cessna because soldering irons
      >   burned people and melted carpets. At Boeing, I had
      >   to have a fireman come out and give me a permit
      >   to plug in an iron . . . just to make sure I wasn't
      >   working the task close to flammables.  It's process
      >   sensitive (meaning you gotta have the moves).
      >   But an artfully crafted solder joint is no
      >   more/less risky to meeting design goals than
      >   a crimped connection.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Sep 28, 2016
Subject: 
Solder splices/connections
      
      The stress riser that occurs at the interface between wire strands and
      solder filled wire strands if not mechanically supported is a candidate for
      fatigue failure due to vibration induced flexing of the wire
      
      This is true of field splices and soldiered pin/wire connection.
      
      Good mechanical support/strain relief is imperative to prevent fatigue
      failure of the connection/soldier joint.
      
      A good crimped connection does see a stress riser at the crimp/wire
      interface... BUT the transition is not as sharp as with soldier wicked into
      wire strands.  With crimped pins the wire is generally supported upstream
      from the crimp thus creating a mechanical support for the connection.  This
      can be true for soldered joints as well... AS LONG as no solder has wicked
      up the wire strands beyond the point of mechanical support.  The finer the
      wire strands (as in very flexible type conductors) the greater the
      likelihood that solder will wick further up the strands potentially
      going beyond the insulation.
      
      Studies done here where I have been a test engineer on medical electronic
      equipment have demonstrated the fragility of soldered wire connections.
      All pins are crimped and strain relieved by connection of the wire outer
      sheath to the connector body and by the cable outer sheath to the connector
      shell.
      
      Chris Stone
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 29, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Solder splices/connections
      
      At 04:29 PM 9/28/2016, you wrote:
      >The stress riser that occurs at the interface between wire strands 
      >and solder filled wire strands if not mechanically supported is a 
      >candidate for fatigue failure due to vibration induced flexing of the wire
      >
      >This is true of field splices and soldiered pin/wire connection.
      >
      >Good mechanical support/strain relief is imperative to prevent 
      >fatigue failure of the connection/soldier joint.
      
         Yes, stresses due to flexing of any material is
         a function of thickness/diameter of object and
         the magnitude of the bending . . . which under
         vibration gives rise to cyclical tension/compression
         forces on the material.  A second  of 1" copper rod
         flexed through x-degrees will fail in a tiny fraction
         of the same cycles impressed on a 0.020" strand of
         copper. This is why welding cable is made from a bizillion
         strands of copper 'cat hair' as are braided copper
         bonding straps . . .
      
      http://tinyurl.com/jxsf55j
      
         . . . are unlikely to fail under flexure stresses
         over lifetime of the installation. Whether or not
         a solder-solidification of strands presents a more/less
         severe stress riser point than a crimp-
         solidification is kinda splitting hairs.
         When used in a situation that imposes
         cyclical forces on the joint, there is
         significant risk of failure at the
         transition from solid to strands in BOTH
         technologies.
      
         This fact of physics gave rise to the double
         crimped, 'pre insulated' terminals of all stripe
         but most famously, PIDG style terminals
         offered by many suppliers for the last
         70 or so years.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/zkmh7kj
      
         When the joining is effected with solder,
         folks in-the-know strive to achieve two
         goals. Join the wires and support the
         insulation just outside the junction.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/ju4gvvg
      
         Arguments favoring one process over the other
         have no solid foundation in risk reduction.
         It's not difficult to apply either process
         in a manner that will exceed the service
         life of the airplane.
      
         You can mess up a potentially good crimped
         installation too.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/hekmvyz
      
         This terminal was observed on an accident
         aircraft where, amongst many other shorfalls,
         some terminals were not properly installed.
         Understand the physics, acquire the tools
         and PRACTICE.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Strobe Grounding
Date: 
Sep 30, 2016
From: 
mike(at)vision499.com
      
      
      I have installed a Whelen HDACF Power Supply in my composite aircraft 
      and the instructions make no mention of grounding the shield in the 
      cables to the strobes.
      
      Should I ground the shield and if yes should it be one or both ends.
      
      Thanks
      
      Mike
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Sep 30, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Strobe Grounding
      
      Mike,
      
      The instructions for the AeroLEDS Pulsar show the shield connected to local
      ground at both ends.
      
          -- Art Z.
      
      On Thu, Sep 29, 2016 at 10:48 PM,  wrote:
      
      >
      >
      > I have installed a Whelen HDACF Power Supply in my composite aircraft and
      > the instructions make no mention of grounding the shield in the cables to
      > the strobes.
      >
      > Should I ground the shield and if yes should it be one or both ends.
      >
      > Thanks
      >
      > Mike
      
      
      -- 
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
William DeLacey <whd721(at)msn.com>
Subject: 
Re: Strobe Grounding
Date: 
Sep 30, 2016
      
      This should be the subject of a discussion hopefully with input from Aerole
      ds.
      
      I installed Aeroleds Pulsars.  I had major loud static noise during  the fi
      rst flights.
      
      In phone discussions with Aeroleds, I was instructed to disconnect the outb
      oard shield grounds and insulate that end shield from any structure near th
      e Aeroleds light.  This greatly reduced my static noise.
      
      I still have a low level Aeroleds strobe sound ( But not at a level objecti
      onable to me), but, I still have a significant static noise ( primarily on 
      the ground during taxiing) but still occasionally in the air.  This winter 
      I intend to try and trace all the Aeroleds wiring and find an intermittent 
      ground location or connection
      
      
      The Aeroleds schematic shows grounding the shield at both ends ( in my inte
      rpretation).  I can only offer, be very careful in the Aeroleds wiring and 
      grounding.  You will not enjoy Aeroleds static noise!
      
      I would suggest Aeroleds should provide some additional guidance for their 
      product as the installation schematic is not clear.
      
      I do like the Aeroleds products and hope this gets some clarification.
      
      
      On Sep 30, 2016, at 4:54 AM, Art Zemon > wrote:
      
      Mike,
      
      The instructions for the AeroLEDS Pulsar show the shield connected to local
       ground at both ends.
      
          -- Art Z.
      
      On Thu, Sep 29, 2016 at 10:48 PM, > wrote:
      ion499.com>
      
      
      I have installed a Whelen HDACF Power Supply in my composite aircraft and t
      he instructions make no mention of grounding the shield in the cables to th
      e strobes.
      
      Should I ground the shield and if yes should it be one or both ends.
      
      Thanks
      
      Mike
      
      --
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      
      "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Eric Page <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: Strobe Grounding
Date: 
Sep 30, 2016
      
      
      Mike,
      
      See "Interconnecting Cable" and Fig 3, on page 2 of this document:
      
           http://www.whelen.com/install/136/13603.pdf
      
      Eric
      
      
      > On Sep 29, 2016, at 8:48 PM, mike(at)vision499.com wrote:
      > I have installed a Whelen HDACF Power Supply in my composite aircraft and the
      instructions make no mention of grounding the shield in the cables to the strobes.
      > 
      > Should I ground the shield and if yes should it be one or both ends.
      > 
      > Thanks
      > 
      > Mike
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Sep 30, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Strobe Grounding
      
      
      >
      >I installed Aeroleds Pulsars.  I had major loud static noise 
      >during  the first flights.
      
         The word 'static' conjures up a mental
         picture of radio noise on an AM radio
         tuned off-station with thunder storms
         in the area. Or perhaps the noise heard
         near a high voltage transmission line where
         one or more insulators are failing. "Static"
         normally describes random, short duration
         impulses . . . no regularity reminiscent
         of a tone or musical note.
      
         Can you be a bit more descriptive? Also,
         did you conduct any investigative
         operations to determine whether the noise
         was coming in through antenna, power supply
         or system signal leads (See chapter 16
         in the 'Connection'.
      
      
      >In phone discussions with Aeroleds, I was instructed to disconnect 
      >the outboard shield grounds and insulate that end shield from any 
      >structure near the Aeroleds light.  This greatly reduced my static noise.
      
         This is a disturbing revelation. The AEROLED
         website speaks to STC and TSO qualification
         of products. These assertions argue with any
         narrative suggesting that treatment of shields
         had a profound effect on an objectionable
         emission of noise.
      
      >I still have a low level Aeroleds strobe sound ( But not at a level 
      >objectionable to me), but, I still have a significant static noise ( 
      >primarily on the ground during taxiing) but still occasionally in 
      >the air.  This winter I intend to try and trace all the Aeroleds 
      >wiring and find an intermittent ground location or connection
      
         Please go through the diagnostic exercises
         described in the 'Connection. Also, it would
         be VERY helpful if you could post a .wav or
         .mp3 recording of the sounds you hear.
      
         The qualification processes for dozens of
         products and systems I've shepherded through
         DO-160/MIL-STD-461 qualification would not
         have allowed a program to move forward with
         EMC deficiencies that you've described.
      
      >The Aeroleds schematic shows grounding the shield at both ends ( in 
      >my interpretation).  I can only offer, be very careful in the 
      >Aeroleds wiring and grounding.  You will not enjoy Aeroleds static noise!
      >
      >I would suggest Aeroleds should provide some additional guidance for 
      >their product as the installation schematic is not clear.
      >
      >I do like the Aeroleds products and hope this gets some clarification.
      
         Precisely. Shielding of wires is intended
         to break ELECTROSTATIC coupling between a
         potentially antagonistic signal (high voltage,
         fast rise) and a potential victim wire
         carrying low level data. The de-coupling process
         is guaranteed only to ward off exchange of
         unfriendly energy between conductors in
         adjacent wire bundles.
      
         Any time the existence or treatment of shields
         has an effect on RADIATED noise (stuff that
         comes in through the antennas), there is a
         SERIOUS problem with that product's design
         and qualification. I think it unlikely that
         you have any small-signal data or audio lines
         bundled with shielded wires in the strobe system;
         hence this thread suggests value in a more
         detailed investigation.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 01, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: AEC 9005
      
      At 04:45 PM 10/1/2016, you wrote:
      >Thanks Bob! What kind of product do you use for the coating?
      >I can think of some other projects that can benefit from that.
      
      
         The 'in-crowd' uses a mil-spec polyurethane
         coating specifically crafted for etched circuit
         boards. In the 'po-boy' world, a clear poly
         by Krylon, Deft, et. als. will suffice.
      
         You can get it at any hardware or big-box
         store. Here's one example.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/gpsdkh4
      
         It doesn't need to be this specific product.
         Any of the clear poly's are fine. You need
         to mask off connectors. Getting that stuff
         into a d-sub is  . . . well . . . you get
         the picture.
      
         I clean a board of solder-flux and other
         guck with the spray from a can of carburetor/
         air intake cleaner (a close cousin to lacquer
         thinner). Walmart sells a can of it for a
         couple of bucks . . . I buy this stuff by
         the case for a host of cleaning tasks.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/h8ppujv
      
         Walmart may have the polyurethane too . . .
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 01, 2016
From: 
Harry Bartel <hlbartel(at)pld.com>
Subject: 
Re: AEC 9005
      
      
      Bob, 
      
      
      I like your input about using the carburetor cleaner, but I have acquired an allergy
      to that product. I have found a product from CRC Industries that I like
      very well, but have not yet used it on circuit boards for cleaning. Here is a
      link to the product, and all our local auto parts stores stock it. 
      
      
      http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=05018 
      
      
      What would be your take on using it instead of carburetor cleaner for that purpose?
      
      
      
      Thanks, 
      
      Harry 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 01, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: AEC 9005
      
      At 06:46 PM 10/1/2016, you wrote:
      
      >Bob,
      >
      >
      >I like your input about using the carburetor cleaner, but I have 
      >acquired an allergy to that product.  I have found a product from 
      >CRC Industries that I like very well, but have not yet used it on 
      >circuit boards for cleaning.  Here is a link to the product, and all 
      >our local auto parts stores stock it.
      >
      >
      ><http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=05018>http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=05018
      >
      >
      >What would be your take on using it instead of carburetor cleaner 
      >for that purpose?
      
         High order probability of success. When
         cleaning a newly assembled board, products
         of assembly (flux mostly) needs to be removed
         before coating. Depending on type of flux, it
         MIGHT just come off with water. I used to assemble
         my products with a water soluble flux and run
         finished boards through he dishwasher.
      
         But without knowing the specifics of what
         ever solder flux you have (or perhaps other
         contaminants acquired with service/age like
         Mr. Yates board), a more universal solvent
         can be considered. 91% isopropyl alcohol from
         Walmart is often sufficient but it doesn't come
         in a handy spray can. Mild solvents like paint
         thinner/toluene/naptha work but again, not so handily
         packaged. The carb cleaner has proven suitable
         to my tasks for decades. I flush generously and
         immediately blow dry with an air hose.
      
         The biggest risk for solvent selection is
         picking something too aggressive . . . MEK
         comes to mind. Does a NICE job of getting
         flux off. Also removes  paint stripes
         from resistors and melts some of the lesser-
         robust plastic parts.
      
         An on-purpose board cleaner . . .
         especially from the likes of CRC is very
         likely a well proven product.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Poisonous Battery Vapors?
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 04, 2016
      
      
      Can lead acid batteries give off Hydrogen sulfide?  If so, is it safe to have batteries
      located within an aircraft cabin?  A mother and daughter might have been
      killed by battery vapors.
      http://www.orlandosentinel.com/news/breaking-news/os-latifa-lincoln-dead-hydrogen-sulfide-20161004-story.html
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460949#460949
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Poisonous Battery Vapors?
      
      At 09:20 PM 10/4/2016, you wrote:
      >
      >Can lead acid batteries give off Hydrogen sulfide?  If so, is it 
      >safe to have batteries located within an aircraft cabin?  A mother 
      >and daughter might have been killed by battery vapors.
      >http://www.orlandosentinel.com/news/breaking-news/os-latifa-lincoln-dead-hydrogen-sulfide-20161004-story.html
      >
      >--------
      
         It would be interesting to see the final report
         on any analysis generated by the hypothesis.
      
         A term search for "hydrogen sulfide" on
         batteryuniversity.com yielded three hits.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/hv6n6bt
      
         . . . it seems 'possible' that products
         of battery distress could include h2s . . .
      
         Our machines are usually fitted with ov
         protection. The quantity of liquid in
         the AGM battery is very limited. I suspect
         that demonstrations designed to produce
         H2S from a SVLA battery would be rather
         bizarre . . . unlikely to ever happen
         in vehicles . . . even less in airplanes.
      
         Bob . . .  
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
Subject: 
rotax generator without battery
      
      I am designing my electrical system for the Rotax 914 which requires two
      electrical fuel pumps. My plan is to run the main pump (and nothing else)
      off the generator, and the auxiliary pump off the bus, which will be
      connected to a battery and the external 40 amp alternator.
      
      According to the Rotax 914 Installation Manual, the minimum idle rpm is
      1400, and at 1400 engine rpm the generator produces only 2a/13.5v (+/- 5%).
      The pumps are Walbro GSL395.
      
      Is there any danger that this might be setting up a problem that would
      damage either the regulator-rectifier or the fuel pump?
      
      Also, what would be the best way to insure that the auxiliary pump (if
      activated) would automatically stop in the event of a crash?
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      At 02:54 PM 10/5/2016, you wrote:
      >I am designing my electrical system for the Rotax 914 which requires 
      >two electrical fuel pumps. My plan is to run the main pump (and 
      >nothing else) off the generator, and the auxiliary pump off the bus, 
      >which will be connected to a battery and the external 40 amp alternator.
      >
      >According to the Rotax 914 Installation Manual, the minimum idle rpm 
      >is 1400, and at 1400 engine rpm the generator produces only 2a/13.5v 
      >(+/- 5%). The pumps are Walbro GSL395.
      >
      >Is there any danger that this might be setting up a problem that 
      >would damage either the regulator-rectifier or the fuel pump?
      
        No
      
      >Also, what would be the best way to insure that the auxiliary pump 
      >(if activated) would automatically stop in the event of a crash?
      
        This is usually managed with the master switch . . .
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Poisonous Battery Vapors?
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
      
      
      Bob,
      Below is a quote from http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/health_concerns that you referenced.
      The danger of hydrogen sulfide is that the sense of smell acclimates to the gas
      and can not smell it anymore.  That explains why the woman in the news article
      did not stop driving before she was incapacitated.
      
      > Over-charging a lead acid battery can produce hydrogen sulfide. The gas is colorless,
      very poisonous, flammable and has the odor of rotten eggs. Hydrogen sulfide
      also occurs naturally during the breakdown of organic matter in swamps
      and sewers; it is present in volcanic gases, natural gas and some well waters.
      Being heavier than air, the gas accumulates at the bottom of poorly ventilated
      spaces. Although noticeable at first, the sense of smell deadens the sensation
      with time and potential victims may be unaware of its presence.
      > As a simple guideline, hydrogen sulfide becomes harmful to human life if the
      odor is noticeable. Turn off the charger, vent the facility and stay outside until
      the odor disappears.
      
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460981#460981
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Thanks Bob.
      
      What would the effect be on the pump if it was getting less than ideal
      amps/volts? Would it simply lower the performance of the pump?
      
      Regarding automatic shut off of the pump, the master switch is hardly
      "automatic." The scenario would be one of a crash with injuries. We would
      want the electric fuel pump to shut down when the engine shuts down so that
      it does not continue to pump fuel, possibly into a ruptured fuel system.
      
      Ken
      
      
      On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 1:05 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 02:54 PM 10/5/2016, you wrote:
      >
      > I am designing my electrical system for the Rotax 914 which requires two
      > electrical fuel pumps. My plan is to run the main pump (and nothing else)
      > off the generator, and the auxiliary pump off the bus, which will be
      > connected to a battery and the external 40 amp alternator.
      >
      > According to the Rotax 914 Installation Manual, the minimum idle rpm is
      > 1400, and at 1400 engine rpm the generator produces only 2a/13.5v (+/- 5%).
      > The pumps are Walbro GSL395.
      >
      > Is there any danger that this might be setting up a problem that would
      > damage either the regulator-rectifier or the fuel pump?
      >
      >
      >  No
      >
      > Also, what would be the best way to insure that the auxiliary pump (if
      > activated) would automatically stop in the event of a crash?
      >
      >
      >  This is usually managed with the master switch . . .
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      There are about a zillion certified aircraft out there with electric fuel pu
      mps that are engaged and energised specifically for takeoff and landing. So y
      ou may be trying to solve a problem that isn't judged to arise very often; p
      articularly if you factor in the small but real possibility of whatever auto
      matic fuel pump shutoff mechanism you design engaging at the wrong moment (s
      hortly after takeoff, say) and causing the very accident you are hoping to a
      void.
      
      For an expectedly rough landing in the event of a forced approach onto rough
       terrain, the fuel and electrical systems should all be purged and isolated w
      ell in advance of touchdown, as Bob suggests, by use of the master switch an
      d fuel shutoff.
      
      
      > On Oct 5, 2016, at 5:48 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      > 
      > Thanks Bob. 
      > 
      > What would the effect be on the pump if it was getting less than ideal amp
      s/volts? Would it simply lower the performance of the pump? 
      > 
      > Regarding automatic shut off of the pump, the master switch is hardly "aut
      omatic." The scenario would be one of a crash with injuries. We would want t
      he electric fuel pump to shut down when the engine shuts down so that it doe
      s not continue to pump fuel, possibly into a ruptured fuel system.
      > 
      > Ken
      > 
      > 
      >> On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 1:05 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aer
      oelectric.com> wrote:
      >> At 02:54 PM 10/5/2016, you wrote:
      >>> I am designing my electrical system for the Rotax 914 which requires two
       electrical fuel pumps. My plan is to run the main pump (and nothing else) o
      ff the generator, and the auxiliary pump off the bus, which will be connecte
      d to a battery and the external 40 amp alternator.
      >>> 
      >>> According to the Rotax 914 Installation Manual, the minimum idle rpm is 1
      400, and at 1400 engine rpm the generator produces only 2a/13.5v (+/- 5%). T
      he pumps are Walbro GSL395.
      >>> 
      >>> Is there any danger that this might be setting up a problem that would d
      amage either the regulator-rectifier or the fuel pump?
      >> 
      >>  No
      >> 
      >>> Also, what would be the best way to insure that the auxiliary pump (if a
      ctivated) would automatically stop in the event of a crash?
      >> 
      >>  This is usually managed with the master switch . . .
      >> 
      >>   Bob . . .
      >> 
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      That may be true, but the Rotax 912iS and the UL Power engines do shut off
      fuel pumps when the engine stops as do all modern automobiles. Again, I am
      not concerned with a forced landing where there is time to prepare. I am
      concerned with a crash, such as flipping the aircraft due to soft or rough
      terrain, or a million other things that could conceivably happen (and do
      happen). In such an instance, I would prefer not to have a high pressure
      fuel pump doing its job.
      
      
      On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 2:35 PM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      
      > There are about a zillion certified aircraft out there with electric fuel
      > pumps that are engaged and energised specifically for takeoff and landing.
      > So you may be trying to solve a problem that isn't judged to arise very
      > often; particularly if you factor in the small but real possibility of
      > whatever automatic fuel pump shutoff mechanism you design engaging at the
      > wrong moment (shortly after takeoff, say) and causing the very accident you
      > are hoping to avoid.
      >
      > For an expectedly rough landing in the event of a forced approach onto
      > rough terrain, the fuel and electrical systems should all be purged and
      > isolated well in advance of touchdown, as Bob suggests, by use of the
      > master switch and fuel shutoff.
      >
      >
      > On Oct 5, 2016, at 5:48 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >
      > Thanks Bob.
      >
      > What would the effect be on the pump if it was getting less than ideal
      > amps/volts? Would it simply lower the performance of the pump?
      >
      > Regarding automatic shut off of the pump, the master switch is hardly
      > "automatic." The scenario would be one of a crash with injuries. We would
      > want the electric fuel pump to shut down when the engine shuts down so that
      > it does not continue to pump fuel, possibly into a ruptured fuel system.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      >
      > On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 1:05 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >
      >> At 02:54 PM 10/5/2016, you wrote:
      >>
      >> I am designing my electrical system for the Rotax 914 which requires two
      >> electrical fuel pumps. My plan is to run the main pump (and nothing else)
      >> off the generator, and the auxiliary pump off the bus, which will be
      >> connected to a battery and the external 40 amp alternator.
      >>
      >> According to the Rotax 914 Installation Manual, the minimum idle rpm is
      >> 1400, and at 1400 engine rpm the generator produces only 2a/13.5v (+/- 5%).
      >> The pumps are Walbro GSL395.
      >>
      >> Is there any danger that this might be setting up a problem that would
      >> damage either the regulator-rectifier or the fuel pump?
      >>
      >>
      >>  No
      >>
      >> Also, what would be the best way to insure that the auxiliary pump (if
      >> activated) would automatically stop in the event of a crash?
      >>
      >>
      >>  This is usually managed with the master switch . . .
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Perhaps more practice at landing...?
      
      > On Oct 5, 2016, at 6:56 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      > 
      > That may be true, but the Rotax 912iS and the UL Power engines do shut off
       fuel pumps when the engine stops as do all modern automobiles. Again, I am n
      ot concerned with a forced landing where there is time to prepare. I am conc
      erned with a crash, such as flipping the aircraft due to soft or rough terra
      in, or a million other things that could conceivably happen (and do happen).
       In such an instance, I would prefer not to have a high pressure fuel pump d
      oing its job. 
      > 
      > 
      >> On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 2:35 PM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >> There are about a zillion certified aircraft out there with electric fuel
       pumps that are engaged and energised specifically for takeoff and landing. S
      o you may be trying to solve a problem that isn't judged to arise very often
      ; particularly if you factor in the small but real possibility of whatever a
      utomatic fuel pump shutoff mechanism you design engaging at the wrong moment
       (shortly after takeoff, say) and causing the very accident you are hoping t
      o avoid.
      >> 
      >> For an expectedly rough landing in the event of a forced approach onto ro
      ugh terrain, the fuel and electrical systems should all be purged and isolat
      ed well in advance of touchdown, as Bob suggests, by use of the master switc
      h and fuel shutoff.
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >>> On Oct 5, 2016, at 5:48 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>> 
      >>> Thanks Bob. 
      >>> 
      >>> What would the effect be on the pump if it was getting less than ideal a
      mps/volts? Would it simply lower the performance of the pump? 
      >>> 
      >>> Regarding automatic shut off of the pump, the master switch is hardly "a
      utomatic." The scenario would be one of a crash with injuries. We would want
       the electric fuel pump to shut down when the engine shuts down so that it d
      oes not continue to pump fuel, possibly into a ruptured fuel system.
      >>> 
      >>> Ken
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>>> On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 1:05 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@a
      eroelectric.com> wrote:
      >>>> At 02:54 PM 10/5/2016, you wrote:
      >>>>> I am designing my electrical system for the Rotax 914 which requires t
      wo electrical fuel pumps. My plan is to run the main pump (and nothing else)
       off the generator, and the auxiliary pump off the bus, which will be connec
      ted to a battery and the external 40 amp alternator.
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> According to the Rotax 914 Installation Manual, the minimum idle rpm i
      s 1400, and at 1400 engine rpm the generator produces only 2a/13.5v (+/- 5%)
      . The pumps are Walbro GSL395.
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> Is there any danger that this might be setting up a problem that would
       damage either the regulator-rectifier or the fuel pump?
      >>>> 
      >>>>  No
      >>>> 
      >>>>> Also, what would be the best way to insure that the auxiliary pump (if
       activated) would automatically stop in the event of a crash?
      >>>> 
      >>>>  This is usually managed with the master switch . . .
      >>>> 
      >>>>   Bob . . .
      >>>> 
      >>> 
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
      
      
      How about putting an oil pressure switch in series with the electric fuel pump?
      And maybe a momentary push button switch in parallel with the oil pressure switch
      to allow for checking pump operation with the engine not running.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460989#460989
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Joe, how would I accomplish the engine start? The primary fuel pump needs
      the generator and the auxiliary needs oil pressure. Is that what the push
      button is for?
      
      Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve.
      
      On Oct 5, 2016 4:50 PM, "user9253"  wrote:
      
      
      How about putting an oil pressure switch in series with the electric fuel
      pump?  And maybe a momentary push button switch in parallel with the oil
      pressure switch to allow for checking pump operation with the engine not
      running.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460989#460989
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"David Lloyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
Re: Poisonous Battery Vapors?
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
      
      
      We had this happen one time on a drive into Mexico for winter duck hunting.
      We drove in friends old Suburban as it was pretty much bullet proof in the 
      Baja outback conditions.
      I the way down, at night, I got the distinct smell of "burning french fries. 
      . .".  That is how my nose translated the problem
      Turned out the regulator had failed and the battery was being charged way 
      beyond its design max limits.  Very hot and fluids coming out the vent caps, 
      etc.
      It was the smell that tipped us off.  Never dawned on us that the nasty 
      discharge would be dangerous other than eating up a battery box steel.
      I don't recall the details now, but, we did a work around such that the 
      battery was not being charged for the remainder of the trip.  Small Mexican 
      city got us running again as they had parts and pieces.
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2016 2:43 PM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Poisonous Battery Vapors?
      
      
      >
      > Bob,
      > Below is a quote from 
      > http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/health_concerns that you 
      > referenced.
      > The danger of hydrogen sulfide is that the sense of smell acclimates to 
      > the gas and can not smell it anymore.  That explains why the woman in the 
      > news article did not stop driving before she was incapacitated.
      >
      >> Over-charging a lead acid battery can produce hydrogen sulfide. The gas 
      >> is colorless, very poisonous, flammable and has the odor of rotten eggs. 
      >> Hydrogen sulfide also occurs naturally during the breakdown of organic 
      >> matter in swamps and sewers; it is present in volcanic gases, natural gas 
      >> and some well waters. Being heavier than air, the gas accumulates at the 
      >> bottom of poorly ventilated spaces. Although noticeable at first, the 
      >> sense of smell deadens the sensation with time and potential victims may 
      >> be unaware of its presence.
      >> As a simple guideline, hydrogen sulfide becomes harmful to human life if 
      >> the odor is noticeable. Turn off the charger, vent the facility and stay 
      >> outside until the odor disappears.
      >
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460981#460981
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 05, 2016
From: 
ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Hi Ken; 
      Are the crankshaft and alternator pulleys the same size, or is the alternator a
      spline drive unit? Otherwise, the alternator usually runs faster than the engine.
      
      Cheers! Stu. 
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      
      From: "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> 
      Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2016 12:54:16 PM 
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery 
      
      I am designing my electrical system for the Rotax 914 which requires two electrical
      fuel pumps. My plan is to run the main pump (and nothing else) off the generator,
      and the auxiliary pump off the bus, which will be connected to a battery
      and the external 40 amp alternator. 
      
      According to the Rotax 914 Installation Manual, the minimum idle rpm is 1400, and
      at 1400 engine rpm the generator produces only 2a/13.5v (+/- 5%). The pumps
      are Walbro GSL395. 
      
      Is there any danger that this might be setting up a problem that would damage either
      the regulator-rectifier or the fuel pump? 
      
      Also, what would be the best way to insure that the auxiliary pump (if activated)
      would automatically stop in the event of a crash? 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      Le 06/10/2016  02:42, user9253 a crit :
      >
      > How about putting an oil pressure switch in series with the electric fuel pump?
      And maybe a momentary push button switch in parallel with the oil pressure
      switch to allow for checking pump operation with the engine not running.
      >
      Hi all,
      
      Just a few thoughts
      he Rotax 914 uses two electric fuel pumps. If no fuel is pumped into the 
      carbs, the engine stops.
      Some builders wire the main fuel pump with a pilot  operated switch, 
      which opens the door to unexpected pilot induced engine shutoffs.
      Those things happen.
      Wiring the main pump in series with an oil pressure switch is making the 
      engine dependent on this switch for continued operation.
      No problem for checking pump operation : the pumps are clearly audible 
      from the cockpit.
      Please note that we are talking about a Rotax engine here, the PM 
      alternator rotor is keyed on the crankshaft at the rear of the engine.
      
      In our project, we wired the main fuel pump direct from an auxiliary 
      contact on the ignition keyswitch. The fuel pump runs any time the 
      ignition is "on".
      
      FWIW
      
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
"rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      
      If your aux alternator is running off the spline takeoff in the back of
      the gearbox, it is never turning at engine RPM and so will never 
      produce its max rated output of "40" amps. I don't see why you
      are planning to just throw away the 15-16 amps from the engine's
      alternator.
      
      --------
      Ira N224XS
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460998#460998
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      
      Yes, I suggested a momentary push button switch to bypass the oil pressure switch.
      A guarded maintained switch could be used instead.
        Another option is to automatically energize the fuel pump whenever the starter
      is energized.
      
      
      > Joe, how would I accomplish the engine start? The primary fuel pump needs the
      generator and the auxiliary needs oil pressure. Is that what the push button
      is for?
      
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461000#461000
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      At 04:48 PM 10/5/2016, you wrote:
      >Thanks Bob.=C2
      >
      >What would the effect be on the pump if it was 
      >getting less than ideal amps/volts? Would it 
      >simply lower the performance of the pump?=C2
      
         If you're talking about and electric,
         "thump-thump" pump, you just about cannot
         hurt these with any sort of electrical abuse
         short of severe over voltage. Pioneered by
         Bendix in the 60's, the motor that drives
         the pump is simply a solenoid (originally
         energized through a set of contacts no unlike
         a switch relay) that compresses a spring which
         in turn forces fuel out of the pump. As the
         fuel flowed out under spring force, a pair
         of check valves allowed fuel to be sucked in
         behind the piston. When it reached end of
         travel, contacts would close, solenoid would
         pull the piston back thus re-compressing the
         spring.
      
         Modern versions are all solid state. In
         the example you see here
      
      http://tinyurl.com/hxwckfr
      
         Figure 10 shows our old friend the 555 timer
         used to periodically compress the spring with
         a string of short pulses . . . energy applied
         irrespective of flow rate through the pump.
         This configuration offers an exceedingly
         simple, robust design with very long service
         life (the contacts would wear out on the
         original Bendix design and were not repairable).
      
      
      >Regarding automatic shut off of the pump, the 
      >master switch is hardly "automatic." The 
      >scenario would be one of a crash with injuries. 
      >We would want the electric fuel pump to shut 
      >down when the engine shuts down so that it does 
      >not continue to pump fuel, possibly into a ruptured fuel system.
      
         Electric fuel pumps have been used on aircraft
         in various forms almost since day-one. The
         POWER source for that device along with all
         other electrically driven components offers
         a potential ignition source for spilled fuel.
         Hence the legacy requirement for crew accessible
         control of all electrical sources in the form
         of alternator/generator and battery switches.
      
         The idea is that a pilot generally knows when
         an off-field landing is imminent and will
         shut off those energy sources before the
         crash.
      
         This 'new' push by Rotax to dedicate the
         built-in PM alternator to running just one
         fuel pump is a puzzlement . . .
      
         In he past, this 18A alternator powered
         entire airplanes . . . thousands of them. Now
         see a suggestion that this capable source be
         partitioned off to run one of the smallest
         energy-demands in airplane . . . a thump-thump
         pump.
      
         Adding a 40A external alternator to the 912/914
         engine offers a great opportunity to craft
         a Z-13/8 style system in the airplane . . . except
         it's a Z-13/18 with about twice the stand-by
         power of the original Z-13/8.
      
         This two-layered electrical system is about as
         robust with respect to failure modes as you can
         get. One pump would run from the battery bus,
         the second from the e-bus . . . or main bus . . .
         it wouldn't much matter with that large a stand-
         by energy source.
      
         This thing Rotax recommends for dedicating an
         18A alternator to running just one pump is,
         in my not so humble opinion, just silly.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      At 05:56 PM 10/5/2016, you wrote:
      >That may be true, but the Rotax 912iS and the UL Power engines do 
      >shut off fuel pumps when the engine stops as do all modern 
      >automobiles. Again, I am not concerned with a forced landing where 
      >there is time to prepare. I am concerned with a crash, such as 
      >flipping the aircraft due to soft or rough terrain, or a million 
      >other things that could conceivably happen (and do happen). In such 
      >an instance, I would prefer not to have a high pressure fuel pump 
      >doing its job.
      
         You say "high-pressure" . . . is this no longer
         the solenoid driven spring style pump I described
         earlier? Is the 912/914 now fuel-injected?
      
         In any case, you can achieve the automatic shut
         off in the same way that cars have for decades.
         My truck uses an oil pressure switch to keep
         the pump running with a bypass relay energized
         by the starter switch to get fuel pressure while
         cranking. Your 'bypass' could be a simple diode
         off the starter engagement line that feeds power
         directly to the pump while cranking.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      
      The Rotax 912 (with carburetor) has an engine driven fuel pump, so the engine is
      not electrically dependent.  The Rotax 914iS fuel injected engine is electrically
      dependent with two high pressure fuel pumps.  It seems that the Rotax engineers
      (and lawyers) do not trust aircraft electrical systems to be fail safe.
      Thus they have dedicated the flywheel dynamo to powering only a fuel pump.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461007#461007
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      /Le 06/10/2016  14:53, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a crit :
      /
      > /
      >   If you're talking about and electric,
      >   "thump-thump" pump,/
      
      Hi Bob and all,
      
      Just to say that the Rotax 914 pumps are the rotary vane type from 
      Pierburg, like some German cars.
      
      http://contrails.free.fr/engine_pierburg_en.php
      
      FWIW,
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Poisonous Battery Vapors?
From: 
"Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      
      I wondered if the battery was located in the passenger compartment so I looked it up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6ZTeFT137Y#t=26.879952
      
      Yes, and it takes three boys and a monkey to swap one. Amazing. When I saw this
      I was glad I didn't own one. But I still doubt the Cause Of Death pronouncement.
      Cars usually have enough ventilation to avoid the buildup of noxious vapors.
      Aircrafts probably do even more.
      
      Recently around here a guy died because he was drunk and sleeping in his car, which
      went up to a zillion degrees in the sun. So I'd look for some COD that is
      more plausible. 
      
      "Wisdom is being aware of the obvious."
      
      --------
      Eric M. Jones
      www.PerihelionDesign.com
      113 Brentwood Drive
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-2072
      emjones(at)charter.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461010#461010
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Bob, the 914 engine is not fuel injected, but it is turbocharged and there
      is a fuel pressure regulator that maintains a constant fuel pressure over
      air pressure produced by the turbo. From what I can tell, it works the same
      as injection in that a lot of fuel is pumped to the regulator, but most of
      that is returned to the tank. I have no idea what a thump-thump pump is,
      but I believe the Rotax pumps are the same type as used in fuel injected
      automobiles.
      
      Ira, the 40 amp aux is belt driven.
      
      On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 5:59 AM, GTH  wrote:
      
      >
      > *Le 06/10/2016 =C3- 14:53, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a =C3=A9crit : *
      >
      >
      > *   If you're talking about and electric,   "thump-thump" pump,*
      >
      >
      > Hi Bob and all,
      >
      > Just to say that the Rotax 914 pumps are the rotary vane type from
      > Pierburg, like some German cars.
      >
      > http://contrails.free.fr/engine_pierburg_en.php
      >
      > FWIW,
      > --
      > Best regards,
      > Gilles
      > http://contrails.free.fr
      > http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      At 08:59 AM 10/6/2016, you wrote:
      >Le 06/10/2016 =E0 14:53, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a =E9crit :
      >>
      >>   If you're talking about and electric,
      >>   "thump-thump" pump,
      >
      >Hi Bob and all,
      >
      >Just to say that the Rotax 914 pumps are the 
      >rotary vane type from Pierburg, like some German cars.
      >
      ><http://contrails.free.fr/engine_pierburg_en.php>http://contrails.free.fr/e
      ngine_pierburg_en.php
      
        Thanks. Okay, on the order of 30psi max. Do we
        know what the cracking pressure is for the
        fuel return line?
      
        The specs call for not more than 4.3A which
        would be at static pressure rating. This
        will be reduced in approximate proportion
        to the fuel control system pressure relief
        settings.
      
        It would be a valuable knowledge-nugget to contribute
        to the library if someone made a real-time
        measurement of fuel pump current in this system,
      
      
      The Rotax 912 (with carburetor) has an engine 
      driven fuel pump, so the engine is not 
      electrically dependent.  The Rotax 914iS fuel 
      injected engine is electrically dependent with 
      two high pressure fuel pumps.  It seems that the 
      Rotax engineers (and lawyers) do not trust 
      aircraft electrical systems to be fail 
      safe.  Thus they have dedicated the flywheel 
      dynamo to powering only a fuel pump.
      
        Hmmmm . . . I wonder from whence their
        discomforts are derived? A study of the aviation
        accident reports shows that loss of electrical
        power is almost never a contributing factor
        in loss of engine . . . and it's an easy task
        to craft a failure tolerant system that
        insures sources of energy vital to engine
        operation.
      
        Z-13/8 evolved out of decades of experience
        and observation of aircraft operations in
        both TC and OBAM aviation venues. I would
        really appreciate it if anyone associated
        with Rotax or any other institution could
        show by considered FMEA how any aircraft
        fitted with Z-13/x is likely to suffer engine
        failure due to any single failure within
        the system.
      
        Some cultures find comfort in staffing
        committees of individuals paid to worry.
        All too often, work product of such
        committees fails the common sense approach
        to failure effects analysis.
      
        I observe that common sense is inversely
        proportional to the bureaucratization
        of the institution. My last stint in
        TC aviation offered me an inside observation
        of the merger of Beech/Hawker/Cessna into
        one big Textron operation. The very
        FIRST field failure problem I was asked
        to assist with had a STONE simple, two
        week solution made possible by the merger
        of the two inventories of qualified
        products . . . a foaming at the mouth
        field failure on one brand was easily
        mittigated by replacement of a decades
        old, field proven part from the other
        brand.  The last meeting I attended before
        my consulting contract ran out left me
        with a feeling of satisfaction of having
        identified a short path to an elegant
        solution.
      
        To my dismay, nearly a year later I was
        told that there were 'problems' with the
        solution having nothing to do with form,
        fit, function and everything to do with
        differences of opinion from a parade of
        bureaucrats with 'worries' and regulatory
        barriers . . . I shudder to think of dozens
        of customers with million dollar airplanes;
        the foam around their mouths getting dried out,
        crusty and flaking off. I don't know
        they get an airplane built anymore.
        Walter, Clyde, Olive Ann, Hedrick,
        et. als. would be horrified to see what
        we've done to their airplane companies.
      
        My gut feeling is that Rotax is/has
        become similarly afflicted with bureaucratic
        worriers lacking foundation in physics
        and practical experience. This is a
        disease that is horribly taxing on one's
        ability to offer good value with
        un-impeachable confidence. In some instances
        it is terminal.
      
        In any case, I'm still unconvinced that the
        dedication of a rather capable energy source
        to the operation of a single, low energy
        task for which a back-up already exists
        is a solution seriously lacking elegance.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: 
Re: Poisonous Battery Vapors?
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      
      Poor engineering, those Porsche guys...
      
      CT
      
      
      -----Mensagem original-----
      De: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Eric M.
      Jones
      Enviada: Thursday, October 6, 2016 3:03 PM
      Para: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      Assunto: AeroElectric-List: Re: Poisonous Battery Vapors?
      
      --> 
      
      I wondered if the battery was located in the passenger compartment so I
      looked it up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6ZTeFT137Y#t=26.879952
      
      Yes, and it takes three boys and a monkey to swap one. Amazing. When I saw
      this I was glad I didn't own one. But I still doubt the Cause Of Death
      pronouncement. Cars usually have enough ventilation to avoid the buildup of
      noxious vapors. Aircrafts probably do even more.
      
      Recently around here a guy died because he was drunk and sleeping in his
      car, which went up to a zillion degrees in the sun. So I'd look for some COD
      that is more plausible. 
      
      "Wisdom is being aware of the obvious."
      
      --------
      Eric M. Jones
      www.PerihelionDesign.com
      113 Brentwood Drive
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-2072
      emjones(at)charter.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461010#461010
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      At 10:39 AM 10/6/2016, you wrote:
      >Bob, the 914 engine is not fuel injected, but it is turbocharged and 
      >there is a fuel pressure regulator that maintains a constant fuel 
      >pressure over air pressure produced by the turbo.
      
         Do you know what the pressure setting is?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
      
      /Le 06/10/2016  22:42, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a crit ://
      /
      > /At 10:39 AM 10/6/2016, you wrote:
      > /
      >> /Bob, the 914 engine is not fuel injected, but it is turbocharged and 
      >> there is a fuel pressure regulator that maintains a constant fuel 
      >> pressure over air pressure produced by the turbo./
      > /
      > ////  Do you know what the pressure setting is?//
      > /
      
      Airbox pressure + 0.25 bar (+- 0.10 bar)
      
      
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Per this document
      <http://www.rotax-owner.com/en/support-topmenu/technical-information/rotax-
      technical-articles/17-understanding-the-rotax-914/file>
      :
      
      The fuel regulator is mounted on the airbox and plays a critical role in
      maintaining fuel pressure to a minimum 0.15 BAR (2.18 PSI or 4.45=9D)
       above
      airbox boost pressure. The regulator is calibrated at the factory and
      normally no adjustments are required. In the event that the fuel pressure
      gets too low, due to a maladjustment or malfunction of the fuel regulator,
      the engine would experience fuel starvation due to the higher airbox
      pressure sensed in the carburetor float bowls not allowing the fuel supply
      to enter. A high fuel pressure can result from regulator maladjustment,
      malfunction or restriction in return line.
      
      A properly adjusted fuel regulator will maintain fuel pressure above airbox
      pressure within the following parameters:
      
      Maximum fuel pressure is 0.35 BAR (5.08 PSI or 10.36=9D) above airbox
      pressure
      
      Minimum fuel pressure is 0.15 BAR (2.18 PSI or 4.45=9D) above airbox 
      pressure
      
      Normal fuel pressure is 0.25 BAR (3.63 PSI or 7.41=9D) above airbox p
      ressure
      
      
      On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 12:42 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 10:39 AM 10/6/2016, you wrote:
      >
      > Bob, the 914 engine is not fuel injected, but it is turbocharged and ther
      e
      > is a fuel pressure regulator that maintains a constant fuel pressure over
      > air pressure produced by the turbo.
      >
      >
      >   Do you know what the pressure setting is?
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 06, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      I found this Pressure Switch
       which
      seems to be a viable way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning
      off the auxiliary fuel pump when the engine stops turning.
      
      On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 12:58 PM, GTH  wrote:
      
      > *Le 06/10/2016 =C3- 22:42, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a =C3=A9crit :*
      >
      >
      > *At 10:39 AM 10/6/2016, you wrote: *
      >
      > *Bob, the 914 engine is not fuel injected, but it is turbocharged and
      > there is a fuel pressure regulator that maintains a constant fuel pressur
      e
      > over air pressure produced by the turbo.*
      >
      >
      > *  Do you know what the pressure setting is?*
      >
      >
      > Airbox pressure + 0.25 bar (+- 0.10 bar)
      >
      >
      > --
      > Best regards,
      > Gilles
      > http://contrails.free.fr
      > http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
      
      /Le 07/10/2016  02:09, Ken Ryan a crit :
      /
      > /I found this Pressure Switch 
      >  which seems to be a 
      > viable way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning off the 
      > auxiliary fuel pump when the engine stops turning./
      
      Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and a 
      relay.
      "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
From: 
ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Hi Ken; 
      Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot (@ 70
      ): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off. 
      Cheers! Stu. 
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      
      From: "GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> 
      Sent: Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM 
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery 
      
      Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit : 
      
      
      I found this Pressure Switch which seems to be a viable way (combined with 
      a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary fuel pump when the engi
      ne stops turning. 
      
      
      Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and a re
      lay. 
      "On a switch and a prayer" ;-) 
      -- 
      Best regards, 
      Gilles 
      http://contrails.free.fr 
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
      
      Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being off ie: n
      o oil pressure
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
           ----x--O--x----
      
      > On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      > 
      > Hi Ken;
      > Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot (@ 7
      0): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      > Cheers!   Stu.
      > 
      > From: "GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Sent: Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      > 
      > Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit :
      > I found this Pressure Switch which seems to be a viable way (combined with
       a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary fuel pump when the engi
      ne stops turning.
      > 
      > Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and a r
      elay.
      > "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      > -- 
      > Best regards,
      > Gilles
      > http://contrails.free.fr
      > http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Skyview Screens and Z13/8
      
      I'm considering installation of a Dynon Skyview system with two 7" screens,
      and wondering how to best power them. I've got plenty of room on the ebus
      from a load analysis standpoint, but is it better to put one screen on the
      main bus in case the ebus were to short? Is there any issue with having a
      half volt difference powering the two screens? How has everyone else been
      doing it?
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the
      auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to have
      any effect on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to
      fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops
      turning because it is powered off the generator.
      
      As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that it is
      a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1, and
      L2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is
      connected to L1.
      
      The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      
      So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is connected
      Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing. But when
      cranking power is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay
      through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and current is
      removed from the starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump
      relay because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (and
      the switch has been turned on).
      
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton 
      wrote:
      
      > Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being off
      > ie: no oil pressure
      >
      > Sent from my iPad
      >
      >      ----x--O--x----
      >
      > On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >
      > Hi Ken;
      > Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot (@
      > 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      > Cheers!   Stu.
      >
      > ------------------------------
      > *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      > *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      > *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >
      >
      > *Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit : *
      >
      > *I found this Pressure Switch
      >  which seems to be a viabl
      e
      > way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary fu
      el
      > pump when the engine stops turning.*
      >
      >
      > Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and a
      > relay.
      > "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      > --
      > Best regards,
      > Gilles
      > http://contrails.free.fr
      > http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Skyview Screens and Z13/8
      
      My understanding is you only put what you need to safely conclude the
      flight on the ebus so primary EFIS only.
      
      I would also highly recommend you put both screens on the pilot side so
      that if one fails, the other one is in front of you, not the passenger.
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 9:17 AM, Jared Yates  wrote:
      
      > I'm considering installation of a Dynon Skyview system with two 7"
      > screens, and wondering how to best power them. I've got plenty of room on
      > the ebus from a load analysis standpoint, but is it better to put one
      > screen on the main bus in case the ebus were to short? Is there any issue
      > with having a half volt difference powering the two screens? How has
      > everyone else been doing it?
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent a main
       fuel pump failure?
      
      Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have an elect
      ric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing and switchin
      g tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the event of engine
       storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      
      I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is permanent
      ly energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the engine-driven pump?
      
      
      > On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      > 
      > I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the auxilia
      ry fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to have any effec
      t on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to fail. The prim
      ary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops turning because it i
      s powered off the generator.
      > 
      > As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that it is
       a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1, and L2
      . Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is connecte
      d to L1.
      > 
      > The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      > L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      > L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      > 
      > So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is connected C
      omm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing. But when crankin
      g power is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay through the C
      omm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and current is removed from t
      he starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump relay because now w
      ith 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (and the switch has been tu
      rned on).
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton  wr
      ote:
      >> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being off i
      e: no oil pressure
      >> 
      >> Sent from my iPad
      >> 
      >>      ----x--O--x----
      >> 
      >>> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>> 
      >>> Hi Ken;
      >>> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot (@
       70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >>> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>> 
      >>> From: "GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>> Sent: Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>> 
      >>> Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit :
      >>> I found this Pressure Switch which seems to be a viable way (combined wi
      th a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary fuel pump when the en
      gine stops turning.
      >>> 
      >>> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and a
       relay.
      >>> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>> -- 
      >>> Best regards,
      >>> Gilles
      >>> http://contrails.free.fr
      >>> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>> 
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both electric fuel
      pumps for takeoff and landings.
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      
      > In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent a
      > main fuel pump failure?
      >
      > Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have an
      > electric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing and
      > switching tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the even
      t
      > of engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >
      > I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is
      > permanently energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the
      > engine-driven pump?
      >
      >
      > On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >
      > I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the
      > auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to have
      > any effect on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to
      > fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops
      > turning because it is powered off the generator.
      >
      > As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that it i
      s
      > a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1, and
      > L2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is
      > connected to L1.
      >
      > The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      > L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      > L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >
      > So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is connected
      > Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing. But when
      > cranking power is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay
      > through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and current 
      is
      > removed from the starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump
      > relay because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (and
      > the switch has been turned on).
      >
      >
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton 
      > wrote:
      >
      >> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being off
      >> ie: no oil pressure
      >>
      >> Sent from my iPad
      >>
      >>      ----x--O--x----
      >>
      >> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>
      >> Hi Ken;
      >> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot (@
      >> 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>
      >> ------------------------------
      >> *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >> *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >> *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >> *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>
      >>
      >> *Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit : *
      >>
      >> *I found this Pressure Switch
      >>  which seems to be a viab
      le
      >> way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary f
      uel
      >> pump when the engine stops turning.*
      >>
      >>
      >> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and a
      >> relay.
      >> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >> --
      >> Best regards,
      >> Gilles
      >> http://contrails.free.fr
      >> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch for the backup pu
      mp? Switch it on on the ground to test, on for takeoff and landing and off t
      he rest of the time.
      
       Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel with the main pum
      p? how do you tell if the main pump has failed if the backup is already runn
      ing?
      
      
      On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both electric fuel pumps
       for takeoff and landings.
      
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      > In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent a ma
      in fuel pump failure?
      > 
      > Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have an ele
      ctric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing and switch
      ing tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the event of engi
      ne storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      > 
      > I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is permane
      ntly energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the engine-driven pump?
      
      > 
      > 
      >> On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >> 
      >> I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the auxili
      ary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to have any effe
      ct on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to fail. The pri
      mary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops turning because it i
      s powered off the generator.
      >> 
      >> As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that it i
      s a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1, and L
      2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is connect
      ed to L1.
      >> 
      >> The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >> L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >> L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >> 
      >> So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is connected C
      omm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing. But when crankin
      g power is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay through the C
      omm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and current is removed from t
      he starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump relay because now w
      ith 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (and the switch has been tu
      rned on).
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton  w
      rote:
      >>> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being off i
      e: no oil pressure
      >>> 
      >>> Sent from my iPad
      >>> 
      >>>      ----x--O--x----
      >>> 
      >>>> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>>> 
      >>>> Hi Ken;
      >>>> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot (
      @ 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >>>> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>> 
      >>>> From: "GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >>>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>> Sent: Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>>> 
      >>>> Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit :
      >>>> I found this Pressure Switch which seems to be a viable way (combined w
      ith a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary fuel pump when the e
      ngine stops turning.
      >>>> 
      >>>> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and a
       relay.
      >>>> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>>> -- 
      >>>> Best regards,
      >>>> Gilles
      >>>> http://contrails.free.fr
      >>>> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>> 
      >> 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Alec,
      
      I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump would be
      running all the time. It would indeed be used only for takeoffs and
      landings, via a toggle switch. But inserting the pressure switch and the
      relay would insure that in the event of a crash, such as on takeoff or
      landing, the auxiliary pump would automatically shut down when the engine
      ceases to turn (because the oil pressure would drop).
      
      Ken
      
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      
      > That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch for the backup
      > pump? Switch it on on the ground to test, on for takeoff and landing and
      > off the rest of the time.
      >
      >  Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel with the main
      > pump? how do you tell if the main pump has failed if the backup is alread
      y
      > running?
      >
      >
      > On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >
      > Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both electric fuel
      > pumps for takeoff and landings.
      >
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >
      >> In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent a
      >> main fuel pump failure?
      >>
      >> Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have an
      >> electric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing and
      >> switching tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the eve
      nt
      >> of engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >>
      >> I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is
      >> permanently energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the
      >> engine-driven pump?
      >>
      >>
      >> On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>
      >> I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the
      >> auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to hav
      e
      >> any effect on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to
      >> fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops
      >> turning because it is powered off the generator.
      >>
      >> As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that it
      >> is a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1, 
      and
      >> L2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is
      >> connected to L1.
      >>
      >> The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >> L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >> L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >>
      >> So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is connected
      >> Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing. But when
      >> cranking power is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay
      >> through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and current
       is
      >> removed from the starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump
      >> relay because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (and
      >> the switch has been turned on).
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton 
      >> wrote:
      >>
      >>> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being off
      >>> ie: no oil pressure
      >>>
      >>> Sent from my iPad
      >>>
      >>>      ----x--O--x----
      >>>
      >>> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>>
      >>> Hi Ken;
      >>> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot (
      @
      >>> 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >>> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>
      >>> ------------------------------
      >>> *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >>> *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>> *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>> *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> *Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit : *
      >>>
      >>> *I found this Pressure Switch
      >>>  which seems to be a via
      ble
      >>> way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary 
      fuel
      >>> pump when the engine stops turning.*
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and 
      a
      >>> relay.
      >>> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>> --
      >>> Best regards,
      >>> Gilles
      >>> http://contrails.free.fr
      >>> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>
      >>>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      It really comes down to probability, modified by your personal risk
      tolerance. What are the odds of actually needing the auto-off function of
      the aux pump (remember that in t/o-landing modes the other pump will be
      running, too; what auto-protects that one?), vs the likelihood of needing
      the backup pump (primary failure) and risking any one of the various wires,
      connectors, pressure switch, pressure *line*, etc causing loss of the pump?
      Or actually *causing* a problem (pressure line or pressure switch opening
      an oil exit path comes to mind...).
      
      In the 'simple' scenario, the aux pump switch mounted next to the primary
      pump switch allows one swipe to get both, if a crash is imminent.
      
      But if the auto feature makes you more comfortable, go for it.
      
      Charlie
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:14 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      > Alec,
      >
      > I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump would be
      > running all the time. It would indeed be used only for takeoffs and
      > landings, via a toggle switch. But inserting the pressure switch and the
      > relay would insure that in the event of a crash, such as on takeoff or
      > landing, the auxiliary pump would automatically shut down when the engine
      > ceases to turn (because the oil pressure would drop).
      >
      > Ken
      >
      >
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >
      >> That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch for the backu
      p
      >> pump? Switch it on on the ground to test, on for takeoff and landing and
      >> off the rest of the time.
      >>
      >>  Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel with the main
      >> pump? how do you tell if the main pump has failed if the backup is alrea
      dy
      >> running?
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>
      >> Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both electric fuel
      >> pumps for takeoff and landings.
      >>
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >>
      >>> In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent a
      >>> main fuel pump failure?
      >>>
      >>> Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have an
      >>> electric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing an
      d
      >>> switching tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the ev
      ent
      >>> of engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >>>
      >>> I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is
      >>> permanently energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the
      >>> engine-driven pump?
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>>
      >>> I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the
      >>> auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to ha
      ve
      >>> any effect on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to
      >>> fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops
      >>> turning because it is powered off the generator.
      >>>
      >>> As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that it
      >>> is a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1,
       and
      >>> L2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is
      >>> connected to L1.
      >>>
      >>> The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >>> L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >>> L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >>>
      >>> So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is connecte
      d
      >>> Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing. But when
      >>> cranking power is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay
      >>> through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and curren
      t is
      >>> removed from the starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump
      >>> relay because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (an
      d
      >>> the switch has been turned on).
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton 
      >>> wrote:
      >>>
      >>>> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being of
      f
      >>>> ie: no oil pressure
      >>>>
      >>>> Sent from my iPad
      >>>>
      >>>>      ----x--O--x----
      >>>>
      >>>> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>>>
      >>>> Hi Ken;
      >>>> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot
      >>>> (@ 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >>>> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>>
      >>>> ------------------------------
      >>>> *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >>>> *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>> *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>>> *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>> *Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit : *
      >>>>
      >>>> *I found this Pressure Switch
      >>>>  which seems to be a vi
      able
      >>>> way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary
       fuel
      >>>> pump when the engine stops turning.*
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch and
      >>>> a relay.
      >>>> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>>> --
      >>>> Best regards,
      >>>> Gilles
      >>>> http://contrails.free.fr
      >>>> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Charlie,
      
      The primary pump is powered by the integrated generator, so it already has
      auto shut off.
      
      What are the odds? Well, in off airport operations here in Alaska the odds
      are probably higher than high altitude ops over midwest farm fields from
      one 6,000 foot paved runways to the next. I know more than one guy who has
      flipped his airplane, and they all say the same thing: it happened in an
      instant with no warning. Fortunately, they all walked away.
      
      Ken
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 1:41 PM, Charlie England 
      wrote:
      
      > It really comes down to probability, modified by your personal risk
      > tolerance. What are the odds of actually needing the auto-off function of
      > the aux pump (remember that in t/o-landing modes the other pump will be
      > running, too; what auto-protects that one?), vs the likelihood of needing
      > the backup pump (primary failure) and risking any one of the various wire
      s,
      > connectors, pressure switch, pressure *line*, etc causing loss of the pum
      p?
      > Or actually *causing* a problem (pressure line or pressure switch opening
      > an oil exit path comes to mind...).
      >
      > In the 'simple' scenario, the aux pump switch mounted next to the primary
      > pump switch allows one swipe to get both, if a crash is imminent.
      >
      > But if the auto feature makes you more comfortable, go for it.
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:14 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >
      >> Alec,
      >>
      >> I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump would be
      >> running all the time. It would indeed be used only for takeoffs and
      >> landings, via a toggle switch. But inserting the pressure switch and the
      >> relay would insure that in the event of a crash, such as on takeoff or
      >> landing, the auxiliary pump would automatically shut down when the engin
      e
      >> ceases to turn (because the oil pressure would drop).
      >>
      >> Ken
      >>
      >>
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >>
      >>> That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch for the
      >>> backup pump? Switch it on on the ground to test, on for takeoff and lan
      ding
      >>> and off the rest of the time.
      >>>
      >>>  Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel with the mai
      n
      >>> pump? how do you tell if the main pump has failed if the backup is alre
      ady
      >>> running?
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>>
      >>> Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both electric fuel
      >>> pumps for takeoff and landings.
      >>>
      >>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >>>
      >>>> In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent 
      a
      >>>> main fuel pump failure?
      >>>>
      >>>> Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have an
      >>>> electric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing a
      nd
      >>>> switching tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the e
      vent
      >>>> of engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >>>>
      >>>> I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is
      >>>> permanently energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the
      >>>> engine-driven pump?
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>> On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>>>
      >>>> I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the
      >>>> auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to h
      ave
      >>>> any effect on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to
      >>>> fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops
      >>>> turning because it is powered off the generator.
      >>>>
      >>>> As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that i
      t
      >>>> is a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1
      , and
      >>>> L2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is
      >>>> connected to L1.
      >>>>
      >>>> The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >>>> L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >>>> L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >>>>
      >>>> So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is
      >>>> connected Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing.
       But
      >>>> when cranking power is put to the starter, current would flow to the r
      elay
      >>>> through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and curre
      nt is
      >>>> removed from the starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pum
      p
      >>>> relay because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (a
      nd
      >>>> the switch has been turned on).
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton 
      >>>> wrote:
      >>>>
      >>>>> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being
      >>>>> off ie: no oil pressure
      >>>>>
      >>>>> Sent from my iPad
      >>>>>
      >>>>>      ----x--O--x----
      >>>>>
      >>>>> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>>>>
      >>>>> Hi Ken;
      >>>>> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilot
      >>>>> (@ 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >>>>> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>>>
      >>>>> ------------------------------
      >>>>> *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >>>>> *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>>> *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>>>> *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>> *Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit : *
      >>>>>
      >>>>> *I found this Pressure Switch
      >>>>>  which seems to be a v
      iable
      >>>>> way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliar
      y fuel
      >>>>> pump when the engine stops turning.*
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch an
      d
      >>>>> a relay.
      >>>>> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>>>> --
      >>>>> Best regards,
      >>>>> Gilles
      >>>>> http://contrails.free.fr
      >>>>> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>
      >>>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Rotax's advice to energize the backup pump for landing is based on limiting t
      heir own liability rather than improving your overall safety. Even if it's g
      enuinely based on a concern for your safety then a pound to a penny the risk
       analysis on which they based that advice (if they did one) assumes 6000' ta
      rmac strips and essentially no risk of inverting the aircraft with adequate p
      ilot skill rather than rough bush operations. 
      
      Have you considered overriding their advice and leaving the pump off for lan
      ding? 
      
      On Oct 7, 2016, at 17:58, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      Charlie,
      
      The primary pump is powered by the integrated generator, so it already has a
      uto shut off. 
      
      What are the odds? Well, in off airport operations here in Alaska the odds a
      re probably higher than high altitude ops over midwest farm fields from one 6
      ,000 foot paved runways to the next. I know more than one guy who has flippe
      d his airplane, and they all say the same thing: it happened in an instant w
      ith no warning. Fortunately, they all walked away.
      
      Ken
      
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 1:41 PM, Charlie England  wro
      te:
      > It really comes down to probability, modified by your personal risk tolera
      nce. What are the odds of actually needing the auto-off function of the aux p
      ump (remember that in t/o-landing modes the other pump will be running, too;
       what auto-protects that one?), vs the likelihood of needing the backup pump
       (primary failure) and risking any one of the various wires, connectors, pre
      ssure switch, pressure *line*, etc causing loss of the pump? Or actually *ca
      using* a problem (pressure line or pressure switch opening an oil exit path c
      omes to mind...).
      > 
      > In the 'simple' scenario, the aux pump switch mounted next to the primary p
      ump switch allows one swipe to get both, if a crash is imminent.  
      > 
      > But if the auto feature makes you more comfortable, go for it.
      > 
      > Charlie
      > 
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:14 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >> Alec,
      >> 
      >> I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump would be runn
      ing all the time. It would indeed be used only for takeoffs and landings, vi
      a a toggle switch. But inserting the pressure switch and the relay would ins
      ure that in the event of a crash, such as on takeoff or landing, the auxilia
      ry pump would automatically shut down when the engine ceases to turn (becaus
      e the oil pressure would drop).
      >> 
      >> Ken
      >> 
      >> 
      >>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >>> That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch for the backu
      p pump? Switch it on on the ground to test, on for takeoff and landing and o
      ff the rest of the time.
      >>> 
      >>>  Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel with the main
       pump? how do you tell if the main pump has failed if the backup is already r
      unning?
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>> 
      >>> Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both electric fuel p
      umps for takeoff and landings.
      >>> 
      >>>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      
      >>>> In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent a
       main fuel pump failure?
      >>>> 
      >>>> Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have an e
      lectric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing and swit
      ching tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the event of en
      gine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >>>> 
      >>>> I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is perm
      anently energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the engine-driven pu
      mp?
      >>>> 
      >>>> 
      >>>>> On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the aux
      iliary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to have any e
      ffect on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had to fail. The p
      rimary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops turning because i
      t is powered off the generator.
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that i
      t is a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm, L1, an
      d L2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm is conn
      ected to L1.
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >>>>> L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >>>>> L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is connect
      ed Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing. But when cra
      nking power is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay through t
      he Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and current is removed f
      rom the starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump relay because
       now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (and the switch has b
      een turned on).
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> 
      >>>>> 
      >>>>>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton  wrote:
      >>>>>> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being o
      ff ie: no oil pressure
      >>>>>> 
      >>>>>> Sent from my iPad
      >>>>>> 
      >>>>>>      ----x--O--x----
      >>>>>> 
      >>>>>>> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>>>>>> 
      >>>>>>> Hi Ken;
      >>>>>>> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilo
      t (@ 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >>>>>>> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>>>>> 
      >>>>>>> From: "GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >>>>>>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>>>>> Sent: Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>>>>>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>>>>>> 
      >>>>>>> Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit :
      >>>>>>> I found this Pressure Switch which seems to be a viable way (combine
      d with a relay) of automatically turning off the auxiliary fuel pump when th
      e engine stops turning.
      >>>>>>> 
      >>>>>>> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch a
      nd a relay.
      >>>>>>> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>>>>>> -- 
      >>>>>>> Best regards,
      >>>>>>> Gilles
      >>>>>>> http://contrails.free.fr
      >>>>>>> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>>>>> 
      >>>>> 
      >>> 
      >> 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Alec, Yes I have indeed considered that!
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:30 PM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      
      > Rotax's advice to energize the backup pump for landing is based on
      > limiting their own liability rather than improving your overall safety.
      > Even if it's genuinely based on a concern for your safety then a pound to
       a
      > penny the risk analysis on which they based that advice (if they did one)
      > assumes 6000' tarmac strips and essentially no risk of inverting the
      > aircraft with adequate pilot skill rather than rough bush operations.
      >
      > Have you considered overriding their advice and leaving the pump off for
      > landing?
      >
      > On Oct 7, 2016, at 17:58, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >
      > Charlie,
      >
      > The primary pump is powered by the integrated generator, so it already ha
      s
      > auto shut off.
      >
      > What are the odds? Well, in off airport operations here in Alaska the odd
      s
      > are probably higher than high altitude ops over midwest farm fields from
      > one 6,000 foot paved runways to the next. I know more than one guy who ha
      s
      > flipped his airplane, and they all say the same thing: it happened in an
      > instant with no warning. Fortunately, they all walked away.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 1:41 PM, Charlie England 
      > wrote:
      >
      >> It really comes down to probability, modified by your personal risk
      >> tolerance. What are the odds of actually needing the auto-off function o
      f
      >> the aux pump (remember that in t/o-landing modes the other pump will be
      >> running, too; what auto-protects that one?), vs the likelihood of needin
      g
      >> the backup pump (primary failure) and risking any one of the various wir
      es,
      >> connectors, pressure switch, pressure *line*, etc causing loss of the pu
      mp?
      >> Or actually *causing* a problem (pressure line or pressure switch openin
      g
      >> an oil exit path comes to mind...).
      >>
      >> In the 'simple' scenario, the aux pump switch mounted next to the primar
      y
      >> pump switch allows one swipe to get both, if a crash is imminent.
      >>
      >> But if the auto feature makes you more comfortable, go for it.
      >>
      >> Charlie
      >>
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:14 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>
      >>> Alec,
      >>>
      >>> I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump would be
      >>> running all the time. It would indeed be used only for takeoffs and
      >>> landings, via a toggle switch. But inserting the pressure switch and th
      e
      >>> relay would insure that in the event of a crash, such as on takeoff or
      >>> landing, the auxiliary pump would automatically shut down when the engi
      ne
      >>> ceases to turn (because the oil pressure would drop).
      >>>
      >>> Ken
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      >>>
      >>>> That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch for the
      >>>> backup pump? Switch it on on the ground to test, on for takeoff and la
      nding
      >>>> and off the rest of the time.
      >>>>
      >>>>  Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel with the
      >>>> main pump? how do you tell if the main pump has failed if the backup i
      s
      >>>> already running?
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>> On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>>>
      >>>> Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both electric fuel
      >>>> pumps for takeoff and landings.
      >>>>
      >>>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers  wrote
      :
      >>>>
      >>>>> In that case why do you need the backup pump energised at all, absent
      >>>>> a main fuel pump failure?
      >>>>>
      >>>>> Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing tanks have a
      n
      >>>>> electric backup pump but it's either on only for takeoff and landing 
      and
      >>>>> switching tanks (Piper, Grumman) or only used for priming and in the 
      event
      >>>>> of engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >>>>>
      >>>>> I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the backup pump is
      >>>>> permanently energised what alerts the pilot to a failure of the
      >>>>> engine-driven pump?
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>> On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >>>>>
      >>>>> I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that this is on the
      >>>>> auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a failure of the switch or relay to 
      have
      >>>>> any effect on the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had t
      o
      >>>>> fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically when the engine stops
      >>>>> turning because it is powered off the generator.
      >>>>>
      >>>>> As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch works is that
      >>>>> it is a single pole, double throw. So there are three terminals: Comm
      , L1,
      >>>>> and L2. Without pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Com
      m is
      >>>>> connected to L1.
      >>>>>
      >>>>> The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >>>>> L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >>>>> L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >>>>>
      >>>>> So at startup, because the pressure switch without pressure is
      >>>>> connected Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel pump switch would do nothing
      . But
      >>>>> when cranking power is put to the starter, current would flow to the 
      relay
      >>>>> through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine starts and curr
      ent is
      >>>>> removed from the starter circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pu
      mp
      >>>>> relay because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is connected to L1 (
      and
      >>>>> the switch has been turned on).
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton 
      >>>>> wrote:
      >>>>>
      >>>>>> Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up, the engine being
      >>>>>> off ie: no oil pressure
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> Sent from my iPad
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>>      ----x--O--x----
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm, ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net wrote:
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> Hi Ken;
      >>>>>> Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer (now 76) and new pilo
      t
      >>>>>> (@ 70): Keep the pilot in charge of turning things off.
      >>>>>> Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> ------------------------------
      >>>>>> *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
      >>>>>> *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>>>> *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>>>>> *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator without battery
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> *Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit : *
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> *I found this Pressure Switch
      >>>>>>  which seems to be a 
      viable
      >>>>>> way (combined with a relay) of automatically turning off the auxilia
      ry fuel
      >>>>>> pump when the engine stops turning.*
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>> Your call. You'll make your engine operation dependent on a switch
      >>>>>> and a relay.
      >>>>>> "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>>>>> --
      >>>>>> Best regards,
      >>>>>> Gilles
      >>>>>> http://contrails.free.fr
      >>>>>> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>>
      >>>>>
      >>>>
      >>>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
      
      
      I agree with Ken's analysis.  Several scenarios where the auto shutoff 
      would be a benefit:  Snag a wheel and invert on t/o or landing; 
      Challenging cross wind landing goes bad;  Failure to clear and obstacle 
      on t/o or landing; Bird strike;  Deer strike;  Encounter with 
      extraterrestrial beings; and the ever popular item with insurance 
      companies -Act of God-.
      
      If it were my aircraft, I'd put in an 'engine not in operation' 
      detection system of some sort.  Oil pressure switches have a long 
      history of reliable operation in the field.  The only issue I see is 
      verifying the system is functioning properly during preflight/startup.
      
      Raymond Julian
      Kettle River, MN
      
      The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty, 
      understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system. 
      And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness, 
      egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men 
      admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second. 
      -John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)
      
      On 10/07/2016 04:58 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      > Charlie,
      >
      > The primary pump is powered by the integrated generator, so it already
      > has auto shut off.
      >
      > What are the odds? Well, in off airport operations here in Alaska the
      > odds are probably higher than high altitude ops over midwest farm fields
      > from one 6,000 foot paved runways to the next. I know more than one guy
      > who has flipped his airplane, and they all say the same thing: it
      > happened in an instant with no warning. Fortunately, they all walked away.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 1:41 PM, Charlie England  > wrote:
      >
      >     It really comes down to probability, modified by your personal risk
      >     tolerance. What are the odds of actually needing the auto-off
      >     function of the aux pump (remember that in t/o-landing modes the
      >     other pump will be running, too; what auto-protects that one?), vs
      >     the likelihood of needing the backup pump (primary failure) and
      >     risking any one of the various wires, connectors, pressure switch,
      >     pressure *line*, etc causing loss of the pump? Or actually *causing*
      >     a problem (pressure line or pressure switch opening an oil exit path
      >     comes to mind...).
      >
      >     In the 'simple' scenario, the aux pump switch mounted next to the
      >     primary pump switch allows one swipe to get both, if a crash is
      >     imminent.
      >
      >     But if the auto feature makes you more comfortable, go for it.
      >
      >     Charlie
      >
      >     On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:14 PM, Ken Ryan      > wrote:
      >
      >         Alec,
      >
      >         I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump
      >         would be running all the time. It would indeed be used only for
      >         takeoffs and landings, via a toggle switch. But inserting the
      >         pressure switch and the relay would insure that in the event of
      >         a crash, such as on takeoff or landing, the auxiliary pump would
      >         automatically shut down when the engine ceases to turn (because
      >         the oil pressure would drop).
      >
      >         Ken
      >
      >
      >         On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers          > wrote:
      >
      >             That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch
      >             for the backup pump? Switch it on on the ground to test, on
      >             for takeoff and landing and off the rest of the time.
      >
      >              Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel
      >             with the main pump? how do you tell if the main pump has
      >             failed if the backup is already running?
      >
      >
      >             On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan              > wrote:
      >
      >             Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both
      >             electric fuel pumps for takeoff and landings.
      >
      >             On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers
      >             > wrote:
      >
      >                 In that case why do you need the backup pump energised
      >                 at all, absent a main fuel pump failure?
      >
      >                 Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing
      >                 tanks have an electric backup pump but it's either on
      >                 only for takeoff and landing and switching tanks (Piper,
      >                 Grumman) or only used for priming and in the event of
      >                 engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >
      >                 I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the
      >                 backup pump is permanently energised what alerts the
      >                 pilot to a failure of the engine-driven pump?
      >
      >
      >                 On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan
      >                 >
      >                 wrote:
      >
      >>                 I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that
      >>                 this is on the auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a
      >>                 failure of the switch or relay to have any effect on
      >>                 the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had
      >>                 to fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically
      >>                 when the engine stops turning because it is powered
      >>                 off the generator.
      >>
      >>                 As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch
      >>                 works is that it is a single pole, double throw. So
      >>                 there are three terminals: Comm, L1, and L2. Without
      >>                 pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm
      >>                 is connected to L1.
      >>
      >>                 The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >>                 L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >>                 L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >>
      >>                 So at startup, because the pressure switch without
      >>                 pressure is connected Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel
      >>                 pump switch would do nothing. But when cranking power
      >>                 is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay
      >>                 through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine
      >>                 starts and current is removed from the starter
      >>                 circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump relay
      >>                 because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is
      >>                 connected to L1 (and the switch has been turned on).
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>                 On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton
      >>                 >                 > wrote:
      >>
      >>                     Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up,
      >>                     the engine being off ie: no oil pressure
      >>
      >>                     Sent from my iPad
      >>
      >>                          ----x--O--x----
      >>
      >>                     On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm,
      >>                     ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
      >>                      wrote:
      >>
      >>>                     Hi Ken;
      >>>                     Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer
      >>>                     (now 76) and new pilot (@ 70): Keep the pilot in
      >>>                     charge of turning things off.
      >>>                     Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>
      >>>                     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      >>>                     *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr
      >>>                     >
      >>>                     *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>                     
      >>>                     *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>>                     *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator
      >>>                     without battery
      >>>
      >>>                     /Le 07/10/2016  02:09, Ken Ryan a crit :
      >>>                     /
      >>>
      >>>                         /I found this Pressure Switch
      >>>                          which
      >>>                         seems to be a viable way (combined with a
      >>>                         relay) of automatically turning off the
      >>>                         auxiliary fuel pump when the engine stops
      >>>                         turning./
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>                     Your call. You'll make your engine operation
      >>>                     dependent on a switch and a relay.
      >>>                     "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>>                     --
      >>>                     Best regards,
      >>>                     Gilles
      >>>                     http://contrails.free.fr
      >>>                     http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>                     <http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr>
      >>>
      >>
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      At 02:17 AM 10/7/2016, you wrote:
      >Le 07/10/2016 =C3  02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit=C2 :
      >>I found this=C2 
      >>Pressure 
      >>Switch=C2 which seems to be a viable way 
      >>(combined with a relay) of automatically 
      >>turning off the auxiliary fuel pump when the engine stops turning.
      >
      >Your call. You'll make your engine operation 
      >dependent on a switch and a relay.
      >"On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      
         How so? If there are TWO pumps with independent
         power paths, then the holy grail of FMEA has
         been achieved. "No single failure" of the
         electrically driven fuel delivery system
         will disable the engine.
      
         In conducting an FMEA you assume that EVERY
         part . . . crimped terminals, threaded fasteners,
         circuit breaker, switch, relay, etc. etc. WILL
         fail. Then configure a system whereby that failure
         does not put the airplane at risk. See chapter 17
         of the 'Connection.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 07, 2016
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
      
      Raymond,
      
      I don't see a problem verifying that the system is functioning properly.
      Startup procedure would be:
      
      1. Flip auxiliary fuel pump switch on (nothing happens)
      2. Engage starter (simultaneously sends power to the aux pump)
      3. Oil pressure rises, engine starts
      4. Starter is disengaged
      5. Engine continues to run
      
      At this point the auxiliary fuel system has been checked. All that remains
      is to power up the main fuel pump and then turn off the aux pump. If the
      engine continues to run, the main fuel pump check out.
      
      Incidentally, it turns out that no relay is necessary. The pressure switch
      is adequately rated for the pump current.
      
      Ken
      
      
      On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 4:30 PM, rayj  wrote:
      
      >
      > I agree with Ken's analysis.  Several scenarios where the auto shutoff
      > would be a benefit:  Snag a wheel and invert on t/o or landing; Challengi
      ng
      > cross wind landing goes bad;  Failure to clear and obstacle on t/o or
      > landing; Bird strike;  Deer strike;  Encounter with extraterrestrial
      > beings; and the ever popular item with insurance companies -Act of God-.
      >
      > If it were my aircraft, I'd put in an 'engine not in operation' detection
      > system of some sort.  Oil pressure switches have a long history of reliab
      le
      > operation in the field.  The only issue I see is verifying the system is
      > functioning properly during preflight/startup.
      >
      > Raymond Julian
      > Kettle River, MN
      >
      > The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty,
      > understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system.
      > And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness,
      > egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men admire
      > the quality of the first they love the produce of the second. -John
      > Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)
      >
      > On 10/07/2016 04:58 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      >
      >> Charlie,
      >>
      >> The primary pump is powered by the integrated generator, so it already
      >> has auto shut off.
      >>
      >> What are the odds? Well, in off airport operations here in Alaska the
      >> odds are probably higher than high altitude ops over midwest farm fields
      >> from one 6,000 foot paved runways to the next. I know more than one guy
      >> who has flipped his airplane, and they all say the same thing: it
      >> happened in an instant with no warning. Fortunately, they all walked awa
      y.
      >>
      >> Ken
      >>
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 1:41 PM, Charlie England > > wrote:
      >>
      >>     It really comes down to probability, modified by your personal risk
      >>     tolerance. What are the odds of actually needing the auto-off
      >>     function of the aux pump (remember that in t/o-landing modes the
      >>     other pump will be running, too; what auto-protects that one?), vs
      >>     the likelihood of needing the backup pump (primary failure) and
      >>     risking any one of the various wires, connectors, pressure switch,
      >>     pressure *line*, etc causing loss of the pump? Or actually *causing*
      >>     a problem (pressure line or pressure switch opening an oil exit path
      >>     comes to mind...).
      >>
      >>     In the 'simple' scenario, the aux pump switch mounted next to the
      >>     primary pump switch allows one swipe to get both, if a crash is
      >>     imminent.
      >>
      >>     But if the auto feature makes you more comfortable, go for it.
      >>
      >>     Charlie
      >>
      >>     On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:14 PM, Ken Ryan >     > wrote:
      >>
      >>         Alec,
      >>
      >>         I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump
      >>         would be running all the time. It would indeed be used only for
      >>         takeoffs and landings, via a toggle switch. But inserting the
      >>         pressure switch and the relay would insure that in the event of
      >>         a crash, such as on takeoff or landing, the auxiliary pump would
      >>         automatically shut down when the engine ceases to turn (because
      >>         the oil pressure would drop).
      >>
      >>         Ken
      >>
      >>
      >>         On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers >         > wrote:
      >>
      >>             That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off switch
      >>             for the backup pump? Switch it on on the ground to test, on
      >>             for takeoff and landing and off the rest of the time.
      >>
      >>              Is there a benefit to having it run full time in parallel
      >>             with the main pump? how do you tell if the main pump has
      >>             failed if the backup is already running?
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>             On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan >             > wrote:
      >>
      >>             Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both
      >>             electric fuel pumps for takeoff and landings.
      >>
      >>             On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers
      >>             > wrote:
      >>
      >>                 In that case why do you need the backup pump energised
      >>                 at all, absent a main fuel pump failure?
      >>
      >>                 Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or low-wing
      >>                 tanks have an electric backup pump but it's either on
      >>                 only for takeoff and landing and switching tanks (Piper,
      >>                 Grumman) or only used for priming and in the event of
      >>                 engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >>
      >>                 I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the
      >>                 backup pump is permanently energised what alerts the
      >>                 pilot to a failure of the engine-driven pump?
      >>
      >>
      >>                 On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan
      >>                 >
      >>                 wrote:
      >>
      >>                 I think maybe some of you are not factoring in that
      >>>                 this is on the auxiliary fuel pump only. So for a
      >>>                 failure of the switch or relay to have any effect on
      >>>                 the flight, the main fuel pump would have already had
      >>>                 to fail. The primary fuel pump stops automatically
      >>>                 when the engine stops turning because it is powered
      >>>                 off the generator.
      >>>
      >>>                 As far as startup, I think the way the pressure switch
      >>>                 works is that it is a single pole, double throw. So
      >>>                 there are three terminals: Comm, L1, and L2. Without
      >>>                 pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With pressure, Comm
      >>>                 is connected to L1.
      >>>
      >>>                 The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >>>                 L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >>>                 L2 goes to the starter side of the starter relay.
      >>>
      >>>                 So at startup, because the pressure switch without
      >>>                 pressure is connected Comm-L2 only, closing the fuel
      >>>                 pump switch would do nothing. But when cranking power
      >>>                 is put to the starter, current would flow to the relay
      >>>                 through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when the engine
      >>>                 starts and current is removed from the starter
      >>>                 circuit, power continues to flow the fuel pump relay
      >>>                 because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is
      >>>                 connected to L1 (and the switch has been turned on).
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>                 On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton
      >>>                 >>                 > wrote:
      >>>
      >>>                     Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for start-up,
      >>>                     the engine being off ie: no oil pressure
      >>>
      >>>                     Sent from my iPad
      >>>
      >>>                          ----x--O--x----
      >>>
      >>>                     On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm,
      >>>                     ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
      >>>                      wrote:
      >>>
      >>>                     Hi Ken;
      >>>>                     Advice from an old electro-mechanical engineer
      >>>>                     (now 76) and new pilot (@ 70): Keep the pilot in
      >>>>                     charge of turning things off.
      >>>>                     Cheers!   Stu.
      >>>>
      >>>>                     ------------------------------
      >>>> ------------------------------------------
      >>>>                     *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr
      >>>>                     >
      >>>>                     *To: *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>>                     
      >>>>                     *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016 12:17:19 AM
      >>>>                     *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List: rotax generator
      >>>>                     without battery
      >>>>
      >>>>                     /Le 07/10/2016 =C3- 02:09, Ken Ryan a =C3=A9crit
       :
      >>>>                     /
      >>>>
      >>>>                         /I found this Pressure Switch
      >>>>                         
      >>>> which
      >>>>                         seems to be a viable way (combined with a
      >>>>                         relay) of automatically turning off the
      >>>>                         auxiliary fuel pump when the engine stops
      >>>>                         turning./
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>>                     Your call. You'll make your engine operation
      >>>>                     dependent on a switch and a relay.
      >>>>                     "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >>>>                     --
      >>>>                     Best regards,
      >>>>                     Gilles
      >>>>                     http://contrails.free.fr
      >>>>                     http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >>>>                     <http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr>
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: rotax generator without battery
From: 
rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      
      I didn't catch that the primary pump was switchable.  I made the mistake 
      of assuming that it was wired direct to the engine driven power supply 
      (a la a mechanical pump).  Sounds foolish now that I see it in print.
      
      As long as the battery can crank the engine long enough to pressurize 
      the oil system sufficiently, is should work. Or, you could start with 
      the primary, and immediately switch to aux pump for ground operations, 
      then both on takeoff.  I'm sure with a little T&E it can be worked out.
      
      
      Raymond Julian
      Kettle River, MN
      
      The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty, 
      understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system. 
      And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness, 
      egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men 
      admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second. 
      -John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)
      
      On 10/07/2016 11:44 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      > Raymond,
      >
      > I don't see a problem verifying that the system is functioning properly.
      > Startup procedure would be:
      >
      > 1. Flip auxiliary fuel pump switch on (nothing happens)
      > 2. Engage starter (simultaneously sends power to the aux pump)
      > 3. Oil pressure rises, engine starts
      > 4. Starter is disengaged
      > 5. Engine continues to run
      >
      > At this point the auxiliary fuel system has been checked. All that
      > remains is to power up the main fuel pump and then turn off the aux
      > pump. If the engine continues to run, the main fuel pump check out.
      >
      > Incidentally, it turns out that no relay is necessary. The pressure
      > switch is adequately rated for the pump current.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      >
      > On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 4:30 PM, rayj  > wrote:
      >
      >     >
      >
      >     I agree with Ken's analysis.  Several scenarios where the auto
      >     shutoff would be a benefit:  Snag a wheel and invert on t/o or
      >     landing; Challenging cross wind landing goes bad;  Failure to clear
      >     and obstacle on t/o or landing; Bird strike;  Deer strike;
      >     Encounter with extraterrestrial beings; and the ever popular item
      >     with insurance companies -Act of God-.
      >
      >     If it were my aircraft, I'd put in an 'engine not in operation'
      >     detection system of some sort.  Oil pressure switches have a long
      >     history of reliable operation in the field.  The only issue I see is
      >     verifying the system is functioning properly during preflight/startup.
      >
      >     Raymond Julian
      >     Kettle River, MN
      >
      >     The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness,
      >     honesty, understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure
      >     in our system. And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed,
      >     acquisitiveness, meanness, egotism and self-interest are the traits
      >     of success. And while men admire the quality of the first they love
      >     the produce of the second. -John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate
      >     (1902-1968)
      >
      >     On 10/07/2016 04:58 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      >
      >         Charlie,
      >
      >         The primary pump is powered by the integrated generator, so it
      >         already
      >         has auto shut off.
      >
      >         What are the odds? Well, in off airport operations here in
      >         Alaska the
      >         odds are probably higher than high altitude ops over midwest
      >         farm fields
      >         from one 6,000 foot paved runways to the next. I know more than
      >         one guy
      >         who has flipped his airplane, and they all say the same thing: it
      >         happened in an instant with no warning. Fortunately, they all
      >         walked away.
      >
      >         Ken
      >
      >         On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 1:41 PM, Charlie England
      >         
      >         >> wrote:
      >
      >             It really comes down to probability, modified by your
      >         personal risk
      >             tolerance. What are the odds of actually needing the auto-off
      >             function of the aux pump (remember that in t/o-landing modes the
      >             other pump will be running, too; what auto-protects that
      >         one?), vs
      >             the likelihood of needing the backup pump (primary failure) and
      >             risking any one of the various wires, connectors, pressure
      >         switch,
      >             pressure *line*, etc causing loss of the pump? Or actually
      >         *causing*
      >             a problem (pressure line or pressure switch opening an oil
      >         exit path
      >             comes to mind...).
      >
      >             In the 'simple' scenario, the aux pump switch mounted next
      >         to the
      >             primary pump switch allows one swipe to get both, if a crash is
      >             imminent.
      >
      >             But if the auto feature makes you more comfortable, go for it.
      >
      >             Charlie
      >
      >             On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 3:14 PM, Ken Ryan
      >         
      >                      >> wrote:
      >
      >                 Alec,
      >
      >                 I'm not sure where you got the idea that the auxiliary pump
      >                 would be running all the time. It would indeed be used
      >         only for
      >                 takeoffs and landings, via a toggle switch. But
      >         inserting the
      >                 pressure switch and the relay would insure that in the
      >         event of
      >                 a crash, such as on takeoff or landing, the auxiliary
      >         pump would
      >                 automatically shut down when the engine ceases to turn
      >         (because
      >                 the oil pressure would drop).
      >
      >                 Ken
      >
      >
      >                 On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Alec Myers
      >         
      >                 >>
      >         wrote:
      >
      >                     That's very reasonable; why not just have an on-off
      >         switch
      >                     for the backup pump? Switch it on on the ground to
      >         test, on
      >                     for takeoff and landing and off the rest of the time.
      >
      >                      Is there a benefit to having it run full time in
      >         parallel
      >                     with the main pump? how do you tell if the main pump has
      >                     failed if the backup is already running?
      >
      >
      >                     On Oct 7, 2016, at 15:19, Ken Ryan
      >         
      >                              >> wrote:
      >
      >                     Rotax operating procedures for 914 call for running both
      >                     electric fuel pumps for takeoff and landings.
      >
      >                     On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Alec Myers
      >                     
      >         >> wrote:
      >
      >                         In that case why do you need the backup pump
      >         energised
      >                         at all, absent a main fuel pump failure?
      >
      >                         Many (most?) TC aircraft with fuel injection or
      >         low-wing
      >                         tanks have an electric backup pump but it's
      >         either on
      >                         only for takeoff and landing and switching tanks
      >         (Piper,
      >                         Grumman) or only used for priming and in the
      >         event of
      >                         engine storage due to main pump failure (Cessna)
      >
      >                         I'm not familiar with the proposed system so If the
      >                         backup pump is permanently energised what alerts the
      >                         pilot to a failure of the engine-driven pump?
      >
      >
      >                         On Oct 7, 2016, at 12:27 PM, Ken Ryan
      >                                            >>
      >                         wrote:
      >
      >                             I think maybe some of you are not factoring
      >             in that
      >                             this is on the auxiliary fuel pump only. So
      >             for a
      >                             failure of the switch or relay to have any
      >             effect on
      >                             the flight, the main fuel pump would have
      >             already had
      >                             to fail. The primary fuel pump stops
      >             automatically
      >                             when the engine stops turning because it is
      >             powered
      >                             off the generator.
      >
      >                             As far as startup, I think the way the
      >             pressure switch
      >                             works is that it is a single pole, double
      >             throw. So
      >                             there are three terminals: Comm, L1, and L2.
      >             Without
      >                             pressure, Comm is connected to L2. With
      >             pressure, Comm
      >                             is connected to L1.
      >
      >                             The Comm goes to the fuel pump relay.
      >                             L1 goes to a fuel pump switch.
      >                             L2 goes to the starter side of the starter
      >             relay.
      >
      >                             So at startup, because the pressure switch
      >             without
      >                             pressure is connected Comm-L2 only, closing
      >             the fuel
      >                             pump switch would do nothing. But when
      >             cranking power
      >                             is put to the starter, current would flow to
      >             the relay
      >                             through the Comm-L2 connection. Then, when
      >             the engine
      >                             starts and current is removed from the starter
      >                             circuit, power continues to flow the fuel
      >             pump relay
      >                             because now with 7lbs of oil pressure Comm is
      >                             connected to L1 (and the switch has been
      >             turned on).
      >
      >
      >                             On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 7:30 AM, John Tipton
      >                                          
      >                                          >> wrote:
      >
      >                                 Q: how does the engine get it's fuel for
      >             start-up,
      >                                 the engine being off ie: no oil pressure
      >
      >                                 Sent from my iPad
      >
      >                                      ----x--O--x----
      >
      >                                 On 7 Oct 2016, at 02:51 pm,
      >                                 ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
      >             
      >                                              > wrote:
      >
      >                                     Hi Ken;
      >                                     Advice from an old
      >                 electro-mechanical engineer
      >                                     (now 76) and new pilot (@ 70): Keep
      >                 the pilot in
      >                                     charge of turning things off.
      >                                     Cheers!   Stu.
      >
      >
      >                 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      >                                     *From: *"GTH" <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr
      >                 
      >                                                      >>
      >                                     *To:
      >                 *aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >                 
      >
      >                                  >
      >                                     *Sent: *Friday, October 7, 2016
      >                 12:17:19 AM
      >                                     *Subject: *Re: AeroElectric-List:
      >                 rotax generator
      >                                     without battery
      >
      >                                     /Le 07/10/2016  02:09, Ken Ryan a
      >                 crit :
      >                                     /
      >
      >                                         /I found this Pressure Switch
      >
      >                                  > which
      >                                         seems to be a viable way
      >                 (combined with a
      >                                         relay) of automatically turning
      >                 off the
      >                                         auxiliary fuel pump when the
      >                 engine stops
      >                                         turning./
      >
      >
      >                                     Your call. You'll make your engine
      >                 operation
      >                                     dependent on a switch and a relay.
      >                                     "On a switch and a prayer" ;-)
      >                                     --
      >                                     Best regards,
      >                                     Gilles
      >                                     http://contrails.free.fr
      >                                     http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >                 <http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr>
      >                                     <http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      >                 <http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr>>
      >
      >
      >     ===================================
      >     -
      >     Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
      >     target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      >     ===================================
      >     FORUMS -
      >     eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
      >     ===================================
      >     WIKI -
      >     errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
      >     ===================================
      >     b Site -
      >               -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      >     rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >     ===================================
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Skyview Screens and Z13/8
From: 
iiNet <stuart(at)stuarthutchison.com.au>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      I have two 7" screens and both have the Dynon backup batteries ... plenty of
       time to divert in an emergency with one running and the other off if necess
      ary to extend endurance. 7" uses less power than the 10" too.
      
      Kind Regards, Stu
      
      Sent from my iPhone
      
      > On 8 Oct. 2016, at 00:41, Sebastien  wrote:
      > 
      > My understanding is you only put what you need to safely conclude the flig
      ht on the ebus so primary EFIS only.
      > 
      > I would also highly recommend you put both screens on the pilot side so th
      at if one fails, the other one is in front of you, not the passenger.
      > 
      >> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 9:17 AM, Jared Yates  wrote:
      
      >> I'm considering installation of a Dynon Skyview system with two 7" screen
      s, and wondering how to best power them. I've got plenty of room on the ebus
       from a load analysis standpoint, but is it better to put one screen on the m
      ain bus in case the ebus were to short? Is there any issue with having a hal
      f volt difference powering the two screens? How has everyone else been doing
       it?
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Loom mounting
From: 
"whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      
      I have to install loom in the wing rib lightning holes. Any recommendations on
      how to adhere it to the edge of the hole? The loom runs the length of the wing
      perpendicular to the ribs.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461093#461093
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Justin Jones <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: 
Re: Loom mounting
Date: 
Oct 09, 2016
      
      This is how I mounted mine (not an RV-10)
      
      I then used an adel clamp and mounted it to the angle. 
      
      
      > On Oct 9, 2016, at 00:41, whodja  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > I have to install loom in the wing rib lightning holes. Any recommendation
      s on how to adhere it to the edge of the hole? The loom runs the length of t
      he wing perpendicular to the ribs.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461093#461093
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
Subject: 
battery contactor vs starter contactor wiring
      
      Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from the big
      terminal and then switches the coil ground, but the starter contactor
      switches coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      
      Ken
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Stephen Richards <stephencliverichards(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
battery contactor vs starter contactor  wiring
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      I would say for safety if starter solenoid was switched on negative side an
      y grounding fault would energies solenoid with positive switching a ground 
      would blow fuse a connection to another positive less likely.
      With battery solenoid if switched positive it would require a fused positiv
      e supply from battery to switch to solenoid, any ground fault would blow fu
      se and de energise solenoid, with negative switching any ground fault will 
      retain solenoid, if on switched side it  would energise solenoid but this s
      hould not cause any danger unless you happened to have crashed.
      Clive 
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
      Sent: =8E08/=8E10/=8E2016 19:13
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: battery contactor vs starter contactor wiring
      
      Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from the big
       terminal and then switches the coil ground, but the starter contactor swit
      ches coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      
      
      Ken
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Wiring install 327/navwork/encoder
From: 
"class4sanger" <kkcvicurn(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      
      Loose pin in the 327 connector or something fried my 327. Now I am paranoid about
      putting in a new one. Questions??? on the 327 pin 13 and 25 are the same ground?
      13 shows power and 25 shows signal ground? Arent they the same thing? Do
      both need to be grounded? navworx wants to be connected to 13, so is that tied
      into the pin or just grounded at same location? navworx also wants altitude
      ground to pin 13 or 25, again tied into pin or just grounded at same location?
      
      Thanks
      Keith
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461102#461102
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Wiring install 327/navwork/encoder
From: 
"class4sanger" <kkcvicurn(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      
      I think I figured it out after talking to some folks. But more important. If the
      navworx wants to connect on the garmin 327 ground pin 13, where would you tie
      that in? Awful hard to get 2 wires into a small dsub pin. Splice after the connector?
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461104#461104
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Wiring install 327/navwork/encoder
From: 
Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      
      I'm sure they are both at the same ground potential, but I would put any
      wires carrying higher current on that Pin 13 since that's the power ground.
      For a signal ground like the RS232 running to NavWorX, it won't matter
      which ground you attach it to.  In fact, not that I'd recommend this, but,
      if all of your avionics are grounded to the same ground point, it is fairly
      likely that most of the RS232 signals would talk even if you left the
      signal ground wires off, simply due to the fact that most of the systems 
      will
      have the signal ground tied to the same ground potential as the
      power ground.  But again, I'm not recommending that, just saying that
      in theory it would probably work without it.  The signal isn't carrying
      much current so either pin will be OK for the signal ground in your
      case.  That doesn't mean the pins are the same, so when connecting the
      system power and ground, use the pins that are specified for that purpose.
      
      Tim
      
      On 10/8/2016 2:02 PM, class4sanger wrote:
      >
      > Loose pin in the 327 connector or something fried my 327. Now I am paranoid about
      putting in a new one. Questions??? on the 327 pin 13 and 25 are the same
      ground? 13 shows power and 25 shows signal ground? Arent they the same thing?
      Do both need to be grounded? navworx wants to be connected to 13, so is that tied
      into the pin or just grounded at same location? navworx also wants altitude
      ground to pin 13 or 25, again tied into pin or just grounded at same location?
      >
      > Thanks
      > Keith
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Date: 
Oct 09, 2016
Subject: 
Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      
      Guys 
      
      I installed a couple of cooling fans in my RV-10 dashboard, actually copying other
      builders idea, to extract heated air from the back of the avionics, which
      is blown in the inside face of the windshield, thus also serving as a windshield
      defrost system.
      
      I am planning to use a 3 position switch, off, on, and automatic, in which this
      last position is to be connected to a thermostatic switch/relay that will turn
      on the coolers only when the temperature behind the avionics reaches a preset
      or an adjustable temperature.
      
      Will somebody please point me to such a thermostatic switch/relay, and a source
      for it.
      
      Thanks
      Carlos
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      
      On 10/8/2016 6:26 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
      >
      > Guys
      >
      > I installed a couple of cooling fans in my RV-10 dashboard, actually copying
      other builders idea, to extract heated air from the back of the avionics, which
      is blown in the inside face of the windshield, thus also serving as a windshield
      defrost system.
      >
      > I am planning to use a 3 position switch, off, on, and automatic, in which this
      last position is to be connected to a thermostatic switch/relay that will turn
      on the coolers only when the temperature behind the avionics reaches a preset
      or an adjustable temperature.
      >
      > Will somebody please point me to such a thermostatic switch/relay, and a source
      for it.
      >
      > Thanks
      > Carlos
      I googled '12 volt thermostat'.
      https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=12%20volt%20thermostat
      
      The 1st one I checked says it will do both heating & cooling:
      https://www.amazon.com/12V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00C4TEEF2
      Web site for it:
      http://www.thermomart.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=149
      
      Does that help, as a starting point?
      
      Charlie
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 08, 2016
      
      
      https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-Waterproof/dp/B00KCCX0EE
      
      https://www.amazon.com/12V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00C4TEEF2
      
      Make your own electronic temperature controller:
      http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21448D.pdf
      
      It will not hurt anything to leave the fans running continuously.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461109#461109
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
From: 
"whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 09, 2016
      
      
      Another option from McMaster;http://www.mcmaster.com/#thermostats/=14irk9r
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461114#461114
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
From: 
Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      That's what I did - just have it on all the time.  Simplicity
      
      On 10/8/2016 9:28 PM, user9253 wrote:
      >
      > It will not hurt anything to leave the fans running continuously.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461109#461109
      >
      >
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ...
      
      Regards
      Carlos  
      
      -----Mensagem original-----
      De: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Bill Watson
      Enviada: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:15 PM
      Para: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      Assunto: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      --> 
      
      That's what I did - just have it on all the time.  Simplicity
      
      On 10/8/2016 9:28 PM, user9253 wrote:
      > --> 
      >
      > It will not hurt anything to leave the fans running continuously.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461109#461109
      >
      >
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      Say what? Is there supposed to be a winking emotie after that statement?
      
      If not, you might need to consider another hobby. :-)
      
      Seriously, the big fan will hide the noise of any number of cooling fans 
      you might install in/behind the panel.
      
      Charlie
      
      On 10/10/2016 12:31 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
      >
      > Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ...
      >
      > Regards
      > Carlos
      >
      > -----Mensagem original-----
      > De: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Bill Watson
      > Enviada: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:15 PM
      > Para: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Assunto: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      >
      > --> 
      >
      > That's what I did - just have it on all the time.  Simplicity
      >
      > On 10/8/2016 9:28 PM, user9253 wrote:
      >> --> 
      >>
      >> It will not hurt anything to leave the fans running continuously.
      >>
      >> --------
      >> Joe Gores
      >>
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      Hello Charlie
      
      Yes, a friend of mine who happens to be a doctor (ear nose & throat) tells
      me that I probably have a higher sensibility to some frequencies ...
      
      And I don't like that noise when the big fan is not swinging.
      
      Carlos  
      
      
      -----Mensagem original-----
      De: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Charlie
      England
      Enviada: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:50 PM
      Para: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      Assunto: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      --> 
      
      Say what? Is there supposed to be a winking emotie after that statement?
      
      If not, you might need to consider another hobby. :-)
      
      Seriously, the big fan will hide the noise of any number of cooling fans you
      might install in/behind the panel.
      
      Charlie
      
      On 10/10/2016 12:31 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
      > --> 
      >
      > Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ...
      >
      > Regards
      > Carlos
      >
      > -----Mensagem original-----
      > De: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Bill 
      > Watson
      > Enviada: Monday, October 10, 2016 6:15 PM
      > Para: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Assunto: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      >
      > --> 
      >
      > That's what I did - just have it on all the time.  Simplicity
      >
      > On 10/8/2016 9:28 PM, user9253 wrote:
      >> --> 
      >>
      >> It will not hurt anything to leave the fans running continuously.
      >>
      >> --------
      >> Joe Gores
      >>
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      Wait... you're flying an AIRPLANE and you're worried about the noise in the
      cockpit from a fan???? Have you considered a glider?
      
          -- Art Z. (only half kidding)
      
      On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Carlos Trigo 
      wrote:
      
      > trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
      >
      > Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ...
      
      
      -- 
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      
      *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
      am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Carlos Trigo " <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      Yes Art
      
      
      I also fly gliders, and must confess that glider flying is indeed the 
      supreme flying experience!
      
      
      No kidding
      
      Carlos
      
      
      P.S. =93 I must add that I=99m still puzzled why we 
      don=99t care to reduce noise inside airplanes like the car 
      builders have already done it
      
      
      De: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Art 
      Zemon
      Enviada: 10 de outubro de 2016 19:17
      Para: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      Assunto: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      
      Wait... you're flying an AIRPLANE and you're worried about the noise in 
      the cockpit from a fan???? Have you considered a glider? 
      
      
          -- Art Z. (only half kidding)
      
      
      On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Carlos Trigo  > wrote:
      
       >
      
      Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ...
      
      
      -- 
      
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      
      "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, 
      what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"David Lloyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay -  Garmin 430W/530W
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      Fans for the Garmin Navigators. . .
      Both the 430 and 530 run "hot", at least from my point of view.  This is 
      normal says Garmin and I was wondering if any of you guys have installed 
      rear fans to assist in shedding some of the heat.
      And, how you did the mounting,etc.
      I think using the small computer type fans can be installed to run full time 
      when the panel is operating.  They seem to do this in computers and last for 
      years.  It is the mounting of the fan that I think is a problem.
      Ideas. . .
      David
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Charlie England" <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
      Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 6:07 PM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      
      > 
      >
      > On 10/8/2016 6:26 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
      >> 
      >>
      >> Guys
      >>
      >> I installed a couple of cooling fans in my RV-10 dashboard, actually 
      >> copying other builders idea, to extract heated air from the back of the 
      >> avionics, which is blown in the inside face of the windshield, thus also 
      >> serving as a windshield defrost system.
      >>
      >> I am planning to use a 3 position switch, off, on, and automatic, in 
      >> which this last position is to be connected to a thermostatic 
      >> switch/relay that will turn on the coolers only when the temperature 
      >> behind the avionics reaches a preset or an adjustable temperature.
      >>
      >> Will somebody please point me to such a thermostatic switch/relay, and a 
      >> source for it.
      >>
      >> Thanks
      >> Carlos
      > I googled '12 volt thermostat'.
      > https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=12%20volt%20thermostat
      >
      > The 1st one I checked says it will do both heating & cooling:
      > https://www.amazon.com/12V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00C4TEEF2
      > Web site for it:
      > http://www.thermomart.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=149
      >
      > Does that help, as a starting point?
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      I don't think that we don't care; it's just much more difficult to achieve
      in an a/c.
      
      For perspective, several years ago one of the European auto mfgrs was
      looking at using active noise cancelling in the cabin of their cars. Their
      initial efforts at a (very complex, multi sensor, multi transducer) system
      seemed to work ok, and by their numbers, they would have been able to
      remove close to 100 lbs of sound reduction material from the car by using
      the system. This was on a car that sells for far north of $50K, and
      development costs would be spread over hundreds of thousands of units.
      
      Now, if I try the passive noise reduction approach in my 1000 lb plane,
      I've added 10% to the empty weight, and I haven't yet added the additional
      60-80 lbs of muffler/exhaust system that the car carries. Just not
      practical, unless you can afford a jet, and the weight it can carry. Even
      then, you're not likely to come close to a premium car in noise level.
      
      On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 1:41 PM, Carlos Trigo  wrote
      :
      
      > Yes Art
      >
      >
      > I also fly gliders, and must confess that glider flying is indeed the
      > supreme flying experience!
      >
      >
      > No kidding
      >
      > Carlos
      >
      >
      > P.S. =93 I must add that I=99m still puzzled why we don
      =99t care to reduce noise
      > inside airplanes like the car builders have already done it
      >
      >
      > *De:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
      > owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *Em nome de *Art Zemon
      > *Enviada:* 10 de outubro de 2016 19:17
      > *Para:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Assunto:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      >
      >
      > Wait... you're flying an AIRPLANE and you're worried about the noise in
      > the cockpit from a fan???? Have you considered a glider?
      >
      >
      >     -- Art Z. (only half kidding)
      >
      >
      > On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Carlos Trigo 
      > wrote:
      >
      > trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
      >
      > Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ...
      >
      >
      > --
      >
      > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      >
      > *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, wha
      t
      > am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
From: 
Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      I agree on the supreme experience but there's nothing quiet about it.  
      Whether slogging around in a drafty 2-33 or zooming about in a modern 
      18m racer with the speed-to-fly audio constantly sounding off, it's 
      noisy ;-)
      
      Bill "who still gets airsick from the sound of a vario" Watson
      
      On 10/10/2016 2:41 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
      >
      > Yes Art
      >
      > I also fly gliders, and must confess that glider flying is indeed the 
      > supreme flying experience!
      >
      > No kidding
      >
      > Carlos
      >
      > P.S.  I must add that Im still puzzled why we dont care to reduce 
      > noise inside airplanes like the car builders have already done it
      >
      > *De:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *Em nome de *Art 
      > Zemon
      > *Enviada:* 10 de outubro de 2016 19:17
      > *Para:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Assunto:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      >
      > Wait... you're flying an AIRPLANE and you're worried about the noise 
      > in the cockpit from a fan???? Have you considered a glider?
      >
      >     -- Art Z. (only half kidding)
      >
      > On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Carlos Trigo  > wrote:
      >
      >     >
      >
      >     Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ...
      >
      >
      > -- 
      >
      > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      >
      > /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, 
      > what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
      >
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay -  Garmin 430W/530W
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      Mounting fans in my BD-4 was very easy. First I glued coarse plastic mesh to the
      exhaust sides of the fans and wired them to the avionics fuse block (no individual
      switch for the fans). To install cut two round holes in the dash, put a
      lip around the edges, and attach with machine screws. 
      
      Sebastien
      
      > On Oct 10, 2016, at 14:46, David Lloyd  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > Fans for the Garmin Navigators. . .
      > Both the 430 and 530 run "hot", at least from my point of view.  This is normal
      says Garmin and I was wondering if any of you guys have installed rear fans
      to assist in shedding some of the heat.
      > And, how you did the mounting,etc.
      > I think using the small computer type fans can be installed to run full time
      when the panel is operating.  They seem to do this in computers and last for years.
      It is the mounting of the fan that I think is a problem.
      > Ideas. . .
      > David
      > 
      > -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      > 
      > 
      > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
      > To: 
      > Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 6:07 PM
      > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Thermostatic switch/relay
      > 
      > 
      >> 
      >>> On 10/8/2016 6:26 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
      >>> 
      >>> Guys
      >>> 
      >>> I installed a couple of cooling fans in my RV-10 dashboard, actually copying
      other builders idea, to extract heated air from the back of the avionics, which
      is blown in the inside face of the windshield, thus also serving as a windshield
      defrost system.
      >>> 
      >>> I am planning to use a 3 position switch, off, on, and automatic, in which
      this last position is to be connected to a thermostatic switch/relay that will
      turn on the coolers only when the temperature behind the avionics reaches a preset
      or an adjustable temperature.
      >>> 
      >>> Will somebody please point me to such a thermostatic switch/relay, and a source
      for it.
      >>> 
      >>> Thanks
      >>> Carlos
      >> I googled '12 volt thermostat'.
      >> https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=12%20volt%20thermostat
      >> 
      >> The 1st one I checked says it will do both heating & cooling:
      >> https://www.amazon.com/12V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00C4TEEF2
      >> Web site for it:
      >> http://www.thermomart.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=149
      >> 
      >> Does that help, as a starting point?
      >> 
      >> Charlie
      > 
      > 
      > ---
      > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
MLE <rv6awingman(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
Subject: 
Loom mounting
      
      How about a dab of pro-seal at each end rib?
      
      
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Loom mounting
      From: "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com>
      
      
      I have to install loom in the wing rib lightning holes. Any recommendations
      on
      how to adhere it to the edge of the hole? The loom runs the length of the
      wing
      perpendicular to the ribs.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461093#461093
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"David Lloyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay -  Garmin 430W/530W
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      . . . .Neat idea. . . .!!
      
      ____________________________________________________
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Sebastien" <cluros(at)gmail.com>
      Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 1:32 PM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Thermostatic switch/relay - Garmin 430W/530W
      
      
      >
      > Mounting fans in my BD-4 was very easy. First I glued coarse plastic mesh 
      > to the exhaust sides of the fans and wired them to the avionics fuse block 
      > (no individual switch for the fans). To install cut two round holes in the 
      > dash, put a lip around the edges, and attach with machine screws.
      >
      > Sebastien
      >
      >> On Oct 10, 2016, at 14:46, David Lloyd  wrote:
      >>
      >> 
      >>
      >> Fans for the Garmin Navigators. . .
      >> Both the 430 and 530 run "hot", at least from my point of view.  This is 
      >> normal says Garmin and I was wondering if any of you guys have installed 
      >> rear fans to assist in shedding some of the heat.
      >> And, how you did the mounting,etc.
      >> I think using the small computer type fans can be installed to run full 
      >> time when the panel is operating.  They seem to do this in computers and 
      >> last for years.  It is the mounting of the fan that I think is a problem.
      >> Ideas. . .
      >> David
      >>
      >> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      >>
      >>
      >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" 
      >> 
      >> To: 
      >> Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 6:07 PM
      >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Thermostatic switch/relay
      >>
      >>
      >>> 
      >>>
      >>>> On 10/8/2016 6:26 PM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
      >>>> 
      >>>>
      >>>> Guys
      >>>>
      >>>> I installed a couple of cooling fans in my RV-10 dashboard, actually 
      >>>> copying other builders idea, to extract heated air from the back of the 
      >>>> avionics, which is blown in the inside face of the windshield, thus 
      >>>> also serving as a windshield defrost system.
      >>>>
      >>>> I am planning to use a 3 position switch, off, on, and automatic, in 
      >>>> which this last position is to be connected to a thermostatic 
      >>>> switch/relay that will turn on the coolers only when the temperature 
      >>>> behind the avionics reaches a preset or an adjustable temperature.
      >>>>
      >>>> Will somebody please point me to such a thermostatic switch/relay, and 
      >>>> a source for it.
      >>>>
      >>>> Thanks
      >>>> Carlos
      >>> I googled '12 volt thermostat'.
      >>> https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=12%20volt%20thermostat
      >>>
      >>> The 1st one I checked says it will do both heating & cooling:
      >>> https://www.amazon.com/12V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00C4TEEF2
      >>> Web site for it:
      >>> http://www.thermomart.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=149
      >>>
      >>> Does that help, as a starting point?
      >>>
      >>> Charlie
      >>
      >>
      >> ---
      >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Loom mounting
From: 
John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      Google "suspension clamp". I used the ones from Oatey with 1/2 cpvc pipe.
      
      john
      
      
      On 10/10/2016 1:34 PM, MLE wrote:
      > How about a dab of pro-seal at each end rib?
      >
      >
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Loom mounting
      > From: "whodja" <whodja(at)gmail.com <mailto:whodja(at)gmail.com>>
      >
      >
      > I have to install loom in the wing rib lightning holes. Any 
      > recommendations on
      > how to adhere it to the edge of the hole? The loom runs the length of 
      > the wing
      > perpendicular to the ribs.
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461093#461093 
      > <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461093#461093>
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay - Garmin 430W/530W
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      /Le 10/10/2016  20:46, David Lloyd a crit :
      /
      > 
      > / /
      > Fans for the Garmin Navigators. . .
      > This is normal says Garmin and I was wondering if any of you guys have 
      > installed rear fans to assist in shedding some of the heat.
      > /
      
      David and all,
      We got a 400.
      No cooling fan.
      
      > / It is the mounting of the fan that I think is a problem.
      > Ideas. . . /
      
      We did indeed install an "defogging fan".
      Some info here
      http://contrails.free.fr/cellule_defog_en.php
      Defogging is efficient, but a bit slow. No problem for us, as the 
      windscreens gathers fog only on the ground and clears as soon as we're 
      airborne.
      
      No noise audible with headsets on.
      Hope this helps.
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Loom mounting
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      /Le 10/10/2016  22:56, John Morgensen a crit :
      /
      > //
      >
      > / I used the ones from Oatey with 1/2 cpvc pipe./
      >
      Hi all,
      
      We did use an electrical PVC pipe.
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: 
Anyone have a B&C LR3b Voltage Regulator handy?
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      I have 2 LR3bs installed on the firewall of my RV10 and need help.  The 
      voltage output regulator screw is under a plastic cap on the unit.  I 
      need the diameter of that brass screw's head.
      
      The problem is that I need to adjust the voltage on one of the units but 
      I can't get a screwdriver on the head of this tiny screw because of 
      where the units are located.  My solution is to fashion a screw driver 
      with a piece of brass tubing slightly larger than the screw to help 
      guide the screw into the slot.
      
      My guess is that the screw's head  is about 1/8" in diameter but that is 
      only a guess.  Plus/minus 1/32" would do the trick. Thanks in advance!
      
      Bill Watson
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
Subject: 
Re: Anyone have a B&C LR3b Voltage Regulator handy?
      
      I have one out I can check this evening.
      
      On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 5:58 PM, Bill Watson  wrote:
      
      > Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
      >
      > I have 2 LR3bs installed on the firewall of my RV10 and need help.  The
      > voltage output regulator screw is under a plastic cap on the unit.  I need
      > the diameter of that brass screw's head.
      >
      > The problem is that I need to adjust the voltage on one of the units but I
      > can't get a screwdriver on the head of this tiny screw because of where the
      > units are located.  My solution is to fashion a screw driver with a piece
      > of brass tubing slightly larger than the screw to help guide the screw into
      > the slot.
      >
      > My guess is that the screw's head  is about 1/8" in diameter but that is
      > only a guess.  Plus/minus 1/32" would do the trick. Thanks in advance!
      >
      > Bill Watson
      >
      >
      > ---
      > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
      
      
      Instead of buying a speed controller or thermostat, buy a fan that comes with a
      speed selector switch.  Let the buyer beware when it comes to manufacturer's
      claims of quiet.  Larger diameter and slower speed usually results in less noise.
      A 120 mm fan will be quieter than an 80 mm fan.  Compare the RPM and Db ratings.
      Computer fans are designed to operate at 12 volts.  They might run faster
      and make more noise at 14 volts.  The voltage can be dropped with a resistor
      or diodes.  The Antec TrueQuiet 120mm LED fan has two speeds and silicone
      mounting grommets.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461155#461155
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 10, 2016
From: 
ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: 
Re: Thermostatic switch/relay
      
      Hi Carlos; 
      One word: weight. 
      Cheers! Stu. 
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      
      From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> 
      Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 11:41:50 AM 
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay 
      
      
      Yes Art 
      
      
      I also fly gliders, and must confess that glider flying is indeed the supre
      me flying experience! 
      
      
      No kidding 
      
      Carlos 
      
      
      P.S. =93 I must add that I=99m still puzzled why we don
      =99t care to reduce noise inside airplanes like the car builders have alrea
      dy done it 
      
      
      De: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric
      -list-server(at)matronics.com] Em nome de Art Zemon 
      Enviada: 10 de outubro de 2016 19:17 
      Para: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com 
      Assunto: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thermostatic switch/relay 
      
      
      Wait... you're flying an AIRPLANE and you're worried about the noise in the
       cockpit from a fan???? Have you considered a glider? 
      
      
      -- Art Z. (only half kidding) 
      
      
      On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 12:31 PM, Carlos Trigo < trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt > wr
      ote: 
      
      
      c.pt > 
      
      
      Well, it can be, but I am too sensitive to noise ... 
      
      
      -- 
      
      
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ 
      
      
      "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
      m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
Subject: 
Re: battery contactor vs starter contactor wiring
      
      I haven't seen any responses to this. Did I ask a dumb question?
      
      
      Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from the big
      terminal and then switches the coil ground, but the starter contactor
      switches coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      
      
      On Sat, Oct 8, 2016 at 9:44 AM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      > Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from the
      > big terminal and then switches the coil ground, but the starter contactor
      > switches coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      >
      > Ken
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: battery contactor vs starter contactor wiring
From: 
Kent or Jackie Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net>
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
      
      
      The difference is the fuse.  In both of them, grounding the coil circuits actuates
      the solenoids but there is no fuse on the battery contactor circuit.  If you
      visualize the starter contactor wired the same way as the battery contactor,
      you would have to bring the output side of the actuating coil back to the cockpit
      to the starter switch and thence through a single dedicated fuse.  Wiring
      it the way it is allows you to use a fuse or CB in the fuse panel.  
      
      Just a guess.
      -Kent
      > On Oct 11, 2016, at 2:15 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      > 
      > I haven't seen any responses to this. Did I ask a dumb question?
      > 
      > 
      > Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from the big terminal
      and then switches the coil ground, but the starter contactor switches
      coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      > 
      > 
      > On Sat, Oct 8, 2016 at 9:44 AM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      > Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from the big terminal
      and then switches the coil ground, but the starter contactor switches
      coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      > 
      > Ken
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Documentation error?
From: 
"Paul A. Fisher" <paulf(at)hughes.net>
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
      
      
      I just added a lighting dimmer to my Icom A200.  I didn't wire the 
      dimmer circuit initially, and it was really annoying to be completely 
      black on a dark night!  Anyway, I found this document on the 
      aeroelectric.com site:
      
      http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/Icom/Icom_A200-210_Wiring_D.pdf
      
      At the top of page 2 there is a representation of the connector at the 
      back of the tray labeled "Wire Entry view of Connector" that shows pins 
      A and 1 on the left side of the connector.  The issue is from the wire 
      side of the connector pins A and 1 are on the RIGHT side of the 
      connector (the symbol is labeled backwards).  The Icom installation 
      document has the same connector representation and it is labeled "Front 
      view" which may confuse someone.  This "front view" refers to the front 
      of the radio, not the front of the plane!
      
      If you take the radio out, sit in the pilot seat and look down the tray, 
      A and 1 are indeed on the left side!  So I think either the symbol is 
      labeled backwards or it should read "Radio View Of The Connector".
      
      Just to be clear, I added the power line from my dimmer to pin B. Laying 
      on my back under the instrument panel (wire entry view of the connector) 
      I added that wire to the top row, second from the RIGHT. And by the way 
      the dimmer circuit works great, so I'm pretty confident that I got the 
      right pin!
      
      Sorry if this is nit-picky, but I don't want someone to blindly follow 
      this document and get things wired backwards! (not that I have ever done 
      that myself!).  The document seems to be seven years old, so maybe I'm 
      the only one confused!
      
      This document claims to be for both the A200 and the A210.  I can only 
      speak for the A200.
      
      I hope this helps!
      
      Paul A. Fisher
      RV-7A N18PF
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
Subject: 
Re: battery contactor vs starter contactor  wiring
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
      
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Stephen Richards <stephencliverichards(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
battery contactor vs starter contactor  wiring
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
      
      Ken I did send this resending Clive 
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: "Stephen Richards" <stephencliverichards(at)gmail.com>
      Sent: =8E11/=8E10/=8E2016 22:07
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: battery contactor vs starter contactor wiri
      ng
      
      
      From: Stephen Richards
      Sent: =8E08/=8E10/=8E2016 20:01
      Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: battery contactor vs starter contactor wiri
      ng
      
      
      I would say for safety if starter solenoid was switched on negative side an
      y grounding fault would energies solenoid with positive switching a ground 
      would blow fuse a connection to another positive less likely.
      With battery solenoid if switched positive it would require a fused positiv
      e supply from battery to switch to solenoid, any ground fault would blow fu
      se and de energise solenoid, with negative switching any ground fault will 
      retain solenoid, if on switched side it  would energise solenoid but this s
      hould not cause any danger unless you happened to have crashed.
      Clive 
      
      
      From: Ken Ryan
      Sent: =8E08/=8E10/=8E2016 19:13
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: battery contactor vs starter contactor wiring
      
      
      Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from the big
       terminal and then switches the coil ground, but the starter contactor swit
      ches coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      
      
      Ken
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: battery contactor vs starter contactor wiring
From: 
Paul Millner <millner(at)me.com>
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
      
      
      >>   In both of them, grounding the coil circuits actuates the solenoids but there
      is no fuse on the battery contactor circuit.  If you visualize the starter
      contactor wired the same way as the battery contactor, you would have to bring
      the output side of the actuating coil back to the cockpit to the starter switch
      and thence through a single dedicated fuse.
      
      Not so!
      
      The battery contractor coil is hard tied to the battery on one end. The other end
      of the coil is grounded through the master switch. No fuse.
      
      The starter contractor coil is tied to ground on one end... The other end gets
      power via the mag/starter switch, typically via some breaker. On my Cessna it's
      the electric fuel pump breaker.
      
      Paul
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Anyone have a B&C LR3b Voltage   Regulator handy?
      
          I have several such tools. Usually made
          from a screwdriver with an 1/8" blade and
          a short piece of .125" i.d. tubing glued
          over the end.
      
          An exemplar drawing calls the adjuster
          out at just under 0.100" . . .
      
      
      >My guess is that the screw's head=C2  is about 
      >1/8" in diameter but that is only a 
      >guess.=C2  Plus/minus 1/32" would do the trick. Thanks in advance!
      
      
      Emacs!
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: battery contactor vs starter contactor   wiring
      
      At 01:15 PM 10/11/2016, you wrote:
      >I haven't seen any responses to this. Did I ask a dumb question?
      >
      >
      >Reviewing 13/8 I notice that the battery contactor jumps power from 
      >the big terminal and then switches the coil ground, but the starter 
      >contactor switches coil positive. Why do it differently on one than the other?
      
         so you don't have to protect the control wire.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: battery contactor vs starter contactor   wiring
      
      At 03:30 PM 10/11/2016, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >The difference is the fuse.  In both of them, grounding the coil 
      >circuits actuates the solenoids but there is no fuse on the battery 
      >contactor circuit.  If you visualize the starter contactor wired the 
      >same way as the battery contactor, you would have to bring the 
      >output side of the actuating coil back to the cockpit to the starter 
      >switch and thence through a single dedicated fuse.  Wiring it the 
      >way it is allows you to use a fuse or CB in the fuse panel.
      >
      >Just a guess.
      
         Actually . . . a fact
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Can One Oil Temp Resistance Bulb Run Two Instruments?
From: 
"stearman456" <warbirds(at)shaw.ca>
Date: 
Oct 11, 2016
      
      
      If wired in parallel, can one oil temperature resistance bulb supply oil temperature
      information to two separate instruments?  I can't fathom why it wouldn't
      if all it basically is is a resistor...  The specifics are a Rochester bulb (MS28034-1)
      installed in the oil tank and wired in parallel to two separate 14v
      instruments in two open cockpits.
      
      Thanks,
      Dan
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461198#461198
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 12, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Documentation error?
      
      At 03:39 PM 10/11/2016, you wrote:
      >
      >I just added a lighting dimmer to my Icom A200.  I didn't wire the 
      >dimmer circuit initially, and it was really annoying to be 
      >completely black on a dark night!  Anyway, I found this document on 
      >the aeroelectric.com site:
      >
      >http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/Icom/Icom_A200-210_Wiring_D.pdf
      >
      >At the top of page 2 there is a representation of the connector at 
      >the back of the tray labeled "Wire Entry view of Connector" that 
      >shows pins A and 1 on the left side of the connector.  The issue is 
      >from the wire side of the connector pins A and 1 are on the RIGHT 
      >side of the connector (the symbol is labeled backwards).  The Icom 
      >installation document has the same connector representation and it 
      >is labeled "Front view" which may confuse someone.  This "front 
      >view" refers to the front of the radio, not the front of the plane!
      
      
         I believe you're right. I've updated the
         Icom installation data to include service,
         installation and operating manuals.
      
      http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/Icom/
      
         I also reviewed the Molex philosophy for marking
         wire locations in the connectors . . .
      
      http://aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Connectors/Molex_Waldom/A200slash210.pdf
      
         and all the documents agree with your observations.
      
         I'll go dig out that drawing and correct it . . .
         as soon as I get a really big hole in the
         side of my house plugged with a new patio
         door.
      
         Thanks for the heads-up!!!
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Oct 12, 2016
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Can One Oil Temp Resistance Bulb Run   Two Instruments?
      
      At 10:03 PM 10/11/2016, you wrote:
      >
      >If wired in parallel, can one oil temperature resistance bulb supply 
      >oil temperature information to two separate instruments?  I can't 
      >fathom why it wouldn't if all it basically is is a resistor...  The 
      >specifics are a Rochester bulb (MS28034-1) installed in the oil tank 
      >and wired in parallel to two separate 14v instruments in two open cockpits.
      >
      >Thanks,
      >Dan
      
         Probably not. One thermocouple can be read by
         multiple instruments . . . but the calibration
         of legacy technologies used by Rochester and
         others depends on COMBINED resistance of the
         sensor and components built into the gage.
         Paralleling two gages would upset the
         calibration.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Anyone have a B&C LR3b Voltage Regulator  handy?
From: 
Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: 
Oct 12, 2016
      
      Thanks as always Bob!  Going at it now.
      
      Bill W
      
      On 10/11/2016 9:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      >    I have several such tools. Usually made
      >    from a screwdriver with an 1/8" blade and
      >    a short piece of .125" i.d. tubing glued
      >    over the end.
      >
      >    An exemplar drawing calls the adjuster
      >    out at just under 0.100" . . .
      >
      >
      >>     My guess is that the screw's head is about 1/8" in diameter but
      >>     that is only a guess.  Plus/minus 1/32" would do the trick.
      >>     Thanks in advance!
      >>
      >
      >
      > Emacs!
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
      
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September 21, 2016 - October 12, 2016

AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-no

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