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      EKiuAInh6grSHgEEEEAAAQQQQAABBBBAAAEEEEAAAQQQQAABBBBAAAEEEIhzARLDcb6D6B4C
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      gAACCCCAAAIIIIAAAggggAACCCAQ5wIkhuN8B9E9BBBAAAEEEEAAAQQQQAABBBBAAAEEEEAA
      AQQQQAABBBBAoLoCgby8vJLqLoT2CCCAAAIIIIAAAggggAACCCCAAAIIIIAAAggggAACCCCA
      AALxKxBMTU11eldYWCiBQECSk5MlKSn6C4lpZ9+5uODCcaTHAMeDtjAjXEwNHeOiLcwIF1ND
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      pYwXXOwC9tKaHC//H3UsheqRDuzIAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: basic schematic
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Jan 31, 2017
      
      
      A switch is OK for the essential bus tie.  A relay is not necessary.
      
      The alternator will most likely continue to operate without a battery connected,
      but its output might not be stable.
      
      Most aircraft do not have a backup for the master battery contactor.  I am not
      necessarily recommending a backup, but if it is desired, a relay could be connected
      in parallel with the contactor.  The relay should be disabled during engine
      cranking to prevent starter current from flowing through relay contacts.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465623#465623
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: GNS 480 Install Kit for Sale
From: 
"Airdog77" <Airdog77(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 02, 2017
      
      
      Hi Jack,
      
      I now this is a long shot, but I was searching through forum posts on the GNS480
      and ran across your post.
      
      I'm considering a 480 and was wondering if there is a chance you still have the
      install kit laying around?  One of my personal preconditions before pulling the
      trigger on a unit is to make sure I can install the darn thing.
      
      Cheers,
      Wade
      
      --------
      Airdog
      Wade Parton
      Building Long-EZ 916WP
      www.longezpush.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465670#465670
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 02, 2017
Subject: 
Re: GNS 480 Install Kit for Sale
      
      I have an install kit, but you have to buy the 480 to get it!!!
      
      On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 6:07 PM, Airdog77  wrote:
      
      >
      > Hi Jack,
      >
      > I now this is a long shot, but I was searching through forum posts on the
      > GNS480 and ran across your post.
      >
      > I'm considering a 480 and was wondering if there is a chance you still
      > have the install kit laying around?  One of my personal preconditions
      > before pulling the trigger on a unit is to make sure I can install the darn
      > thing.
      >
      > Cheers,
      > Wade
      >
      > --------
      > Airdog
      > Wade Parton
      > Building Long-EZ 916WP
      > www.longezpush.com
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465670#465670
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: GNS 480 Install Kit for Sale
From: 
"Airdog77" <Airdog77(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 02, 2017
      
      
      Oh, really?!  
      
      Sending you an PM Jack
      
      --------
      Airdog
      Wade Parton
      Building Long-EZ 916WP
      www.longezpush.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465675#465675
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Stall - Stall
From: 
"JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      Hi Guys
      My granddaughter has some dolls that talk, how can one modify (or construct ones
      own) a  voice generator that says: (for obvious reasons) Stall Stall
      Regards: John
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465685#465685
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      You could
      
      1. if there's a memory chip you could reprogram it, or replace it with one with
      your own data
      
      2. you could replace part of the circuit with a microcontroller of your own to
      bash out your own audio but use the same output stage - amplifier and speaker.
      Two seconds of 8kHz sampled audio is 16KBytes, or half that if you use 4 bit
      samples. You could find a microcontroller with enough memory or use an external
      memory chip. Any $1 microcontroller now has a D to A, or you can bit-bash your
      own with a resistor ladder or 4 or 8 bit PWM output
      
      3. you could build your own system from scratch and put it in the doll
      
      
      On 3Feb2017, at 1:53 PM, JOHN TIPTON  wrote:
      
      
      Hi Guys
      My granddaughter has some dolls that talk, how can one modify (or construct ones
      own) a  voice generator that says: (for obvious reasons) Stall Stall
      Regards: John
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465685#465685
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      I am using an older ISD1730 evaluation board that was around $10. from 
      digi-key for 3 different voice warnings on my amphib.
      Today I'd start by looking at something like this
      https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10653
      and I'd google "arduino voice recorder"
      Ken
      
      On 03/02/2017 7:53 AM, JOHN TIPTON wrote:
      >
      > Hi Guys
      > My granddaughter has some dolls that talk, how can one modify (or construct ones
      own) a  voice generator that says: (for obvious reasons) Stall Stall
      > Regards: John
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      Someone's done all the hard work for you ...
      
      
      https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-audio-fx-sound-board
      
      
      On 3Feb2017, at 2:36 PM, C&K  wrote:
      
      
      I am using an older ISD1730 evaluation board that was around $10. from digi-key
      for 3 different voice warnings on my amphib.
      Today I'd start by looking at something like this
      https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10653
      and I'd google "arduino voice recorder"
      Ken
      
      On 03/02/2017 7:53 AM, JOHN TIPTON wrote:
      > 
      > Hi Guys
      > My granddaughter has some dolls that talk, how can one modify (or construct ones
      own) a  voice generator that says: (for obvious reasons) Stall Stall
      > Regards: John
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      Answer 1)  How ?
      Answer 2). How ?
      Answer 3)  How ? (doll = aeroplane)
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
           ----x--O--x----
      
      > On 3 Feb 2017, at 01:32 pm, Alec Myers  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > You could
      > 
      > 1. if there's a memory chip you could reprogram it, or replace it with one with
      your own data
      > 
      > 2. you could replace part of the circuit with a microcontroller of your own to
      bash out your own audio but use the same output stage - amplifier and speaker.
      Two seconds of 8kHz sampled audio is 16KBytes, or half that if you use 4 bit
      samples. You could find a microcontroller with enough memory or use an external
      memory chip. Any $1 microcontroller now has a D to A, or you can bit-bash
      your own with a resistor ladder or 4 or 8 bit PWM output
      > 
      > 3. you could build your own system from scratch and put it in the doll
      > 
      > 
      > On 3Feb2017, at 1:53 PM, JOHN TIPTON  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > Hi Guys
      > My granddaughter has some dolls that talk, how can one modify (or construct ones
      own) a  voice generator that says: (for obvious reasons) Stall Stall
      > Regards: John
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465685#465685
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      Ken
      Thank you: that's the type of answer that helps
      Regards: John
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
           ----x--O--x----
      
      > On 3 Feb 2017, at 01:43 pm, Alec Myers  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > Someone's done all the hard work for you ...
      > 
      > 
      > https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-audio-fx-sound-board
      > 
      > 
      > On 3Feb2017, at 2:36 PM, C&K  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > I am using an older ISD1730 evaluation board that was around $10. from digi-key
      for 3 different voice warnings on my amphib.
      > Today I'd start by looking at something like this
      > https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10653
      > and I'd google "arduino voice recorder"
      > Ken
      > 
      >> On 03/02/2017 7:53 AM, JOHN TIPTON wrote:
      >> 
      >> Hi Guys
      >> My granddaughter has some dolls that talk, how can one modify (or construct
      ones own) a  voice generator that says: (for obvious reasons) Stall Stall
      >> Regards: John
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      Alec
      Thank you
      John
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
           ----x--O--x----
      
      > On 3 Feb 2017, at 01:43 pm, Alec Myers  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > Someone's done all the hard work for you ...
      > 
      > 
      > https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-audio-fx-sound-board
      > 
      > 
      > On 3Feb2017, at 2:36 PM, C&K  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > I am using an older ISD1730 evaluation board that was around $10. from digi-key
      for 3 different voice warnings on my amphib.
      > Today I'd start by looking at something like this
      > https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10653
      > and I'd google "arduino voice recorder"
      > Ken
      > 
      >> On 03/02/2017 7:53 AM, JOHN TIPTON wrote:
      >> 
      >> Hi Guys
      >> My granddaughter has some dolls that talk, how can one modify (or construct
      ones own) a  voice generator that says: (for obvious reasons) Stall Stall
      >> Regards: John
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
      
      I've seen birthday cards that let  you record your own audio message.
      Gutting one of those might be the easiest way to do what you want, if you
      have some soldering skills.
      
      Charlie
      
      On Fri, Feb 3, 2017 at 7:53 AM, John Tipton 
      wrote:
      
      > jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
      >
      > Alec
      > Thank you
      > John
      >
      > Sent from my iPad
      >
      >      ----x--O--x----
      >
      > > On 3 Feb 2017, at 01:43 pm, Alec Myers  wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > Someone's done all the hard work for you ...
      > >
      > >
      > > https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-audio-fx-sound-board
      > >
      > >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      I have used an "ISD1820 Voice Record Module" with success:
      eBay item number: 201708883118 $1.63 with free shipping.
      It takes one month to ship from China.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465699#465699
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      I have used many of the Chinese knockoffs for cheap experiments or where 
      saving pennies is important but expect zero support for the product 
      other than free replacement if you get a dud.
      For a one off or first time project I recommend using adafruit.com or 
      sparkfun.com or similar vendors to increase the chances of success with 
      greatly reduced aggravation.
      Minor changes in some of these products can chew up a lot of time 
      sorting things out.
      Ken
      
      On 03/02/2017 9:49 AM, user9253 wrote:
      >
      > I have used an "ISD1820 Voice Record Module" with success:
      > eBay item number: 201708883118 $1.63 with free shipping.
      > It takes one month to ship from China.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465699#465699
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
Subject: 
GNS 480 And Install kit.
      
      Just in case my previous post did not get through, I have a Garmin 480 WASS
      with the install kit that I will be removing from my AC in a few weeks.also
      a Navworx ADS-B, and a Garmin transponder and audio panel. If any one is
      interested I will discuss any offers for any or all the items. All work.
      Don
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Battery heater
From: 
"Steve Kelly" <amsk22(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      While waiting for the preheat on my engine I got to thinking about warming up the
      battery a little.  Was thinking of slipping a small silicone pad type heater
      in between the battery and the box.  Don't really want to install it permanently.
      They make a 25 or 50 watt model.  Anyone see any problem doing this.  I
      know they can get rather hot, but I haven't used one this small.  The battery
      is a PC680.  This one has a metal case on it.  Any thoughts on which size to
      use?
        Steve
      
      --------
      Steve
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465725#465725
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Battery heater
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 03, 2017
      
      
      Can a heater be attached to the underside of the battery box so that it does not
      actually touch the battery?  I would be worried about damaging the battery from
      a localized hot spot.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465729#465729
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: GNS 480 And Install kit.
From: 
"Airdog77" <Airdog77(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      
      Hi Don,
      
      Sorry, got you confused with the original post on the install kit.  I sent an email
      to your gmail account regarding your GNS480.
      
      Regards,
      Wade
      
      --------
      Airdog
      Wade Parton
      Building Long-EZ 916WP
      www.longezpush.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465735#465735
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Battery heater
From: 
"Steve Kelly" <amsk22(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      
      Yeah.  Heating from the bottom would probably be better.  The bottom of the box
      is open.  Maybe I can put a steel plate on the bottom of the box and attach the
      pad with a magnetic strip.  Any thoughts on the size to use- 25 or 50 watt.
       Thanks, Steve
      
      --------
      Steve
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465737#465737
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Battery heater
      
      i played with this exact thing a month ago. i used a 25 watt stick on and
      encased it in a sheet metal envelope about 4'' x 6 ''. on a piece of
      plywood i put it under an odessey 625. it raised the temp about 8 deg/hour.
      with good contact to the battery the thing would have a temp about 130 deg.
      in free air the envelope would get near 200 deg. if i used it my plane i
      would set it on something that didn't conduct heat as well as metal and
      never run it for more than 6 hrs or when it wasn't cold enough to effect
      the batteryi wouldn't go over 25 watts. then i decided that when it was
      cold enough to slow down the battery it was too cold to go flying.i am
      talking 10-15 deg.
       bob noffs
      
      On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 6:35 AM, Steve Kelly  wrote:
      
      >
      > Yeah.  Heating from the bottom would probably be better.  The bottom of
      > the box is open.  Maybe I can put a steel plate on the bottom of the box
      > and attach the pad with a magnetic strip.  Any thoughts on the size to use-
      > 25 or 50 watt.
      >  Thanks, Steve
      >
      > --------
      > Steve
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465737#465737
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Battery heater
      
      i just posted about this and then read joe's post. when i tested this thing
      out i checked temps every hour with an infrared temp probe. the heater is
      so small at 25 watts and the metal envelope spread the heat out that i
      never found temps on the bottom of the battery get anywhere too warm.BUT
      ...this was with oat's and a battery at  around 10 above. it could be
      different if you run this thing accidentally when oat is 70 deg. the heater
      pad is for sure hot enough in free air to damage it.
       bob
      
      On Fri, Feb 3, 2017 at 7:19 PM, user9253  wrote:
      
      >
      > Can a heater be attached to the underside of the battery box so that it
      > does not actually touch the battery?  I would be worried about damaging the
      > battery from a localized hot spot.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465729#465729
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Battery heater
      
      the pad and envelope reaches
      
      On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 7:40 AM, bob noffs  wrote:
      
      > i just posted about this and then read joe's post. when i tested this
      > thing out i checked temps every hour with an infrared temp probe. the
      > heater is so small at 25 watts and the metal envelope spread the heat out
      > that i never found temps on the bottom of the battery get anywhere too
      > warm.BUT ...this was with oat's and a battery at  around 10 above. it could
      > be different if you run this thing accidentally when oat is 70 deg. the
      > heater pad is for sure hot enough in free air to damage it.
      >  bob
      >
      > On Fri, Feb 3, 2017 at 7:19 PM, user9253  wrote:
      >
      >>
      >> Can a heater be attached to the underside of the battery box so that it
      >> does not actually touch the battery?  I would be worried about damaging the
      >> battery from a localized hot spot.
      >>
      >> --------
      >> Joe Gores
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465729#465729
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
"rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      
      All of this discussion presupposes that the OP knows how to get a signal line out
      of an EFIS or an AOA device, or a stall horn switch and send it to
      a memory/DAC system (i.e., a voice generator) to trigger an annunciation event.
      It is not hard, but not trivial and depends on the specifics of the
      target hardware
      
      --------
      Ira N224XS
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465742#465742
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
From: 
"Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      
      Great subject. DX.com has several of these for a few bucks. They have reasonably
      fast shipping. 
      
      Two thoughts: This is a perfect place to put a perfect female voice from a coworker,
      sister, friend, etc. 
      
      The Air Forces uses audio warnings extensively. The potential uses for these is
      mind boggling.
      
      Eric
      
      --------
      Eric M. Jones
      www.PerihelionDesign.com
      113 Brentwood Drive
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-2072
      emjones(at)charter.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465743#465743
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
      
      In the late 1970's when we were living in Silicon Valley my dad had a start
      up high tech electronics firm. Since he was in the business he had lots of
      friends from all over the world who were all in Silicon Valley dreaming up
      all kinds of futuristic ideas.
      
      One such friend came over one night and he had a very small PC board with
      an integrated chip and a small microphone. This device would capture about
      5 to 10 seconds of audio and record it in solid state on the chip... wow...
      no spinning records or magnetic tape.
      
      We all sat around the kitchen table and played with it and laughed and try
      to dream up ways that this device could be used. We had such ideas as a
      teddy bear, greeting card, Christmas ornament but that was about the extent
      of our creativity.
      
      Fast forward 20 to 40 years and it is shocking that so many devices still
      use a goofy synthetic voice to say things like "autopilot"  or "too low
      flaps"  instead of a device with a recorded sexy female real person voice.
      
      Bill Hunter
      
      
      On Feb 4, 2017 08:40, "Eric M. Jones"  wrote:
      
      > emjones(at)charter.net>
      >
      > Great subject. DX.com has several of these for a few bucks. They have
      > reasonably fast shipping.
      >
      > Two thoughts: This is a perfect place to put a perfect female voice from a
      > coworker, sister, friend, etc.
      >
      > The Air Forces uses audio warnings extensively. The potential uses for
      > these is mind boggling.
      >
      > Eric
      >
      > --------
      > Eric M. Jones
      > www.PerihelionDesign.com
      > 113 Brentwood Drive
      > Southbridge, MA 01550
      > (508) 764-2072
      > emjones(at)charter.net
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465743#465743
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
      
      I also just remembered that in the late 1990s I was interviewing for a
      corporate Jet Pilot position with a Silicon Valley firm that was purchasing
      their first jet.
      
      During the interview I asked what their product line was and the principle
      explain to me that they had just invented a computer chip that could record
      1000 songs on it. I remember him looking across the conference table and
      pointed to his thumbnail and said that this ship was only the size of a
      person's thumb nail and that it could record 1000 songs. I was amazed
      because a compact disc at the time would only record 40 songs.
      
      He said that he could not elaborate more about the product nor could he
      tell me what other companies he was going to be a vendor for with this
      revolutionary new product.
      
      Bill Hunter
      
      On Feb 4, 2017 10:31, "William Hunter"  wrote:
      
      In the late 1970's when we were living in Silicon Valley my dad had a start
      up high tech electronics firm. Since he was in the business he had lots of
      friends from all over the world who were all in Silicon Valley dreaming up
      all kinds of futuristic ideas.
      
      One such friend came over one night and he had a very small PC board with
      an integrated chip and a small microphone. This device would capture about
      5 to 10 seconds of audio and record it in solid state on the chip... wow...
      no spinning records or magnetic tape.
      
      We all sat around the kitchen table and played with it and laughed and try
      to dream up ways that this device could be used. We had such ideas as a
      teddy bear, greeting card, Christmas ornament but that was about the extent
      of our creativity.
      
      Fast forward 20 to 40 years and it is shocking that so many devices still
      use a goofy synthetic voice to say things like "autopilot"  or "too low
      flaps"  instead of a device with a recorded sexy female real person voice.
      
      Bill Hunter
      
      
      On Feb 4, 2017 08:40, "Eric M. Jones"  wrote:
      
      > emjones(at)charter.net>
      >
      > Great subject. DX.com has several of these for a few bucks. They have
      > reasonably fast shipping.
      >
      > Two thoughts: This is a perfect place to put a perfect female voice from a
      > coworker, sister, friend, etc.
      >
      > The Air Forces uses audio warnings extensively. The potential uses for
      > these is mind boggling.
      >
      > Eric
      >
      > --------
      > Eric M. Jones
      > www.PerihelionDesign.com
      > 113 Brentwood Drive
      > Southbridge, MA 01550
      > (508) 764-2072
      > emjones(at)charter.net
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465743#465743
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Stall - Stall
      
      No voice actor royalties. :-)
      
      On a more serious note. There was an article some months ago about a DIY
      stick shaker. I wonder if that might be a more effective alert tool for
      stall warning than any visual or audio alert. I'd never considered making
      one, but the execution would be relatively simple, as long as you have a
      signal source.
      
      Charlie
      
      On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 11:31 AM, William Hunter 
      wrote:
      
      > In the late 1970's when we were living in Silicon Valley my dad had a
      > start up high tech electronics firm. Since he was in the business he had
      > lots of friends from all over the world who were all in Silicon Valley
      > dreaming up all kinds of futuristic ideas.
      >
      > One such friend came over one night and he had a very small PC board with
      > an integrated chip and a small microphone. This device would capture about
      > 5 to 10 seconds of audio and record it in solid state on the chip... wow...
      > no spinning records or magnetic tape.
      >
      > We all sat around the kitchen table and played with it and laughed and try
      > to dream up ways that this device could be used. We had such ideas as a
      > teddy bear, greeting card, Christmas ornament but that was about the extent
      > of our creativity.
      >
      > Fast forward 20 to 40 years and it is shocking that so many devices still
      > use a goofy synthetic voice to say things like "autopilot"  or "too low
      > flaps"  instead of a device with a recorded sexy female real person voice.
      >
      > Bill Hunter
      >
      >
      > On Feb 4, 2017 08:40, "Eric M. Jones"  wrote:
      >
      >> emjones(at)charter.net>
      >>
      >> Great subject. DX.com has several of these for a few bucks. They have
      >> reasonably fast shipping.
      >>
      >> Two thoughts: This is a perfect place to put a perfect female voice from
      >> a coworker, sister, friend, etc.
      >>
      >> The Air Forces uses audio warnings extensively. The potential uses for
      >> these is mind boggling.
      >>
      >> Eric
      >>
      >> --------
      >> Eric M. Jones
      >> www.PerihelionDesign.com
      >> 113 Brentwood Drive
      >> Southbridge, MA 01550
      >> (508) 764-2072
      >> emjones(at)charter.net
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465743#465743
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> ===================================
      >> -
      >> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/
      >> Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      >> ===================================
      >> FORUMS -
      >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
      >> ===================================
      >> WIKI -
      >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
      >> ===================================
      >> b Site -
      >>           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >> ===================================
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net>
Subject: 
Why is this diode there ?
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      Why is this diode in the Alternator B line ?
      
      Is it old thinking from way back in the day and old tech maybe to protect t
      he older alternators ?
      
      
      [cid:image001.png(at)01D27EE2.E05BB1A0]
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
RockRack Switches
      
      Does anyone by chance have a schematic for the ON-OFF-ON Rockrack switches?
      
      Bill Hunter
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Why is this diode there ?
From: 
"Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      
      Yes, it looks strange. It probably prevents the ammeter from slamming backwards
      when the external ground power is applied?
      
      --------
      Eric M. Jones
      www.PerihelionDesign.com
      113 Brentwood Drive
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-2072
      emjones(at)charter.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465754#465754
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
From: 
Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: 
Re: Why is this diode there ?
      
      Wouldn't the diodes within the alternator serve the same purpose? You can't
      "back feed" the alternator (and thus the ammeter) as its internal diodes would
      prevent current in that direction. That "strange" diode would appear to serve no
      purpose.
      
      Bob McC
      
      > 
      >     ---------- Original Message ----------
      >     From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
      >     Date: February 4, 2017 at 2:37 PM
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >     Yes, it looks strange. It probably prevents the ammeter from slamming
      > backwards when the external ground power is applied?
      > 
      >     --------
      >     Eric M. Jones
      >     www.PerihelionDesign.com
      >     113 Brentwood Drive
      >     Southbridge, MA 01550
      >     (508) 764-2072
      >     emjones(at)charter.net
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >     Read this topic online here:
      > 
      >     http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465754#465754
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
what are these things?
      
      Can you guys tell me what these thing are and what they are used for?
      (attached photo) They were in a small bag with a bunch of terminal
      connectors that (I think) came with an engine instrument monitoring package
      for Dynon Skyview.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: what are these things?
      
      They look like resistors to me. Try the link below, & cross check with your
      ohm meter.
      
      Charlie
      https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=resistor+color+code
      
      
      On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 2:36 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      > Can you guys tell me what these thing are and what they are used for?
      > (attached photo) They were in a small bag with a bunch of terminal
      > connectors that (I think) came with an engine instrument monitoring package
      > for Dynon Skyview.
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Stuart Hutchison <stuart(at)stuarthutchison.com.au>
Subject: 
Re: what are these things?
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      They=99re resistors of at least two, perhaps three different 
      values (it=99s hard to be sure of some of the colour bands in the 
      photo).  Resistor value decoders are available all over the Internet, 
      like this from DigiKey > 
      http://www.digikey.com/-/media/Images/Marketing/Resources/Calculators/resi
      stor-color-chart.jpg?la=en-US&ts=72364a89-2139-476a-8a54-8d78dacd29ff 
      <http://www.digikey.com/-/media/Images/Marketing/Resources/Calculators/res
      istor-color-chart.jpg?la=en-US&ts=72364a89-2139-476a-8a54-8d78dacd29ff
      >
      
      The only place I recall (off the top of my head) installing resistors in 
      the Dynon setup is at the point each Tacho signal wire taps into the 
      P-leads (in my case at the magneto switch terminals).  Small resistors 
      are a dime a dozen, but only one each P-lead is required for that 
      particular task.
      
      Cheers, Stu
      
      
      > On 5 Feb 2017, at 07:36, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      > 
      > Can you guys tell me what these thing are and what they are used for? 
      (attached photo) They were in a small bag with a bunch of terminal 
      connectors that (I think) came with an engine instrument monitoring 
      package for Dynon Skyview.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
Subject: 
Re: what are these things?
      
      Thank you Charlie and Stu.
      
      On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Stuart Hutchison <
      stuart(at)stuarthutchison.com.au> wrote:
      
      > They=99re resistors of at least two, perhaps three different values
       (it=99s
      > hard to be sure of some of the colour bands in the photo).  Resistor valu
      e
      > decoders are available all over the Internet, like this from DigiKey >
      > http://www.digikey.com/-/media/Images/Marketing/Resources/Calculators/
      > resistor-color-chart.jpg?la=en-US&ts=72364a89-2139-476a-8a54-8d78dacd
      29ff
      >
      > The only place I recall (off the top of my head) installing resistors in
      > the Dynon setup is at the point each Tacho signal wire taps into the
      > P-leads (in my case at the magneto switch terminals).  Small resistors ar
      e
      > a dime a dozen, but only one each P-lead is required for that particular
      > task.
      >
      > Cheers, Stu
      >
      >
      > On 5 Feb 2017, at 07:36, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      >
      > Can you guys tell me what these thing are and what they are used for?
      > (attached photo) They were in a small bag with a bunch of terminal
      > connectors that (I think) came with an engine instrument monitoring packa
      ge
      > for Dynon Skyview.
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net>
Subject: 
Re: Why is this diode there ?
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      SXMgaXQgcG9zc2libHkgdXNlZCB0byBsaW1pdCB0aGUgb3V0cHV0IG9mIHRoZSBhbHRlcm5hdG9y
      Pz8/PyBJIHNlZSBubyBCcmVha2VyIGluIHRoZSBkaWFncmFtIHdoaWNoIGlzIHdlaXJkIGFzIHN0
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      TS4gSm9uZXMNCnd3dy5QZXJpaGVsaW9uRGVzaWduLmNvbTxodHRwOi8vd3d3LlBlcmloZWxpb25E
      ZXNpZ24uY29tPg0KMTEzIEJyZW50d29vZCBEcml2ZQ0KU291dGhicmlkZ2UsIE1BIDAxNTUwDQoo
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      dG9waWMgb25saW5lIGhlcmU6DQoNCmh0dHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS92aWV3dG9w
      aWMuPT0NCg0KDQo+DQo
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview Brightness
      and RockRack Switch LEDs
Date: 
Feb 04, 2017
      
      Hi All (again),
      
      
      I am trying to integrate a single rheostat for use with both the 
      RockRack switch LEDs and the Dynon Skyview.  In other words I want to 
      have the single rheostat dim both the RockRack indicator LEDs and the 
      Dynon brightness with a turn of a single knob.
      
      
      The Rheostat I bought is a bit confusing.  I thought it would only have 
      only two wires (one in-ey and one out-ey) and I would simply connect the 
      in-ey wire to a fused 12 VDC source and then connect the out-ey to both 
      the Dynon and the RockRack LED input spade.
      
      
      This rheostat however has THREE wires.  
      
      
      The instructions have a =9CSimplified Hookup=9D but it 
      states that this hookup is for =9CIncandescent Lamps 
      Only=9D.  Is there a reason why I could not use that hookup for 
      the RockRack LEDs?
      
      
      (Attached is a PDF of the instructions for the Rheostat)
      
      
      OTHER INFORMATION:
      
      
      The RockRack have an LED that illuminates when the switch is placed in 
      the ON position.  The voltage source for this LED can either be the 
      output voltage of the switch itself (example:  Turn the landing light ON 
      and the power that goes out to the landing light is also tapped off to 
      provide the power for the LED in the switch) or a rheostat with a 
      controlled voltage can be used as the source of power for the LEDs to 
      make them dimmable.  
      
      
      I have the Dynon part figured outit has a =9Cpin 
      25=9D that is a pin that looks for a source signal voltage and 
      when it sees a certain voltage, the screens will dim to a user 
      programmable brightness (example:  If pin 25 sees 14 VDC then the 
      screens will go to 100 percent brightness and if they see 7 VDC then 
      they will dim to 50 percent).
      
      
      I do not have the schematic for the RockRack switches so I will have to 
      multimeter the spade connectors to see how to wire them.
      
      
      Any help would be greatly appreciated
      
      
      ..
      
      
      Cheers!!!
      
      
      Bill  Hunter
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Why is this diode there ?
From: 
"MMiller" <mmill(at)optonline.net>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      The diode is minor, why do you want the starter contactor to self hold?
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465783#465783
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness and RockRack Switch LEDs
      
      Which Dynon screen do you have? A friend is winding up a Skyview install,
      and just mentioned to me that it has a PWM dimmer feature built in that
      will control panel LEDs in concert with screen brightness. He did mention
      that the PWM functions on the ground path, so the LEDs are fed 12V and the
      ground side of the LEDs are wired to the PWM dimmer terminal in the
      Skyview. So if that's what you have, it's worth diving back into the manual
      and/or giving Dynon a call.
      
      The diagram under the red X shows your control wired as a rheostat. The top
      diagram shows it wired as a potentiometer (voltage divider). If you wire it
      as a rheostat, it's unlikely to work well as an LED dimmer. It's unlikely
      to work well as an LED dimmer, anyway, unless you just get lucky and its
      resistance value range is perfect for the supply voltage/LED current range
      needed for bright to dim operation.
      
      https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie
      =UTF-8#q=rheostat+vs+potentiometer
      
      Charlie
      
      On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 11:24 PM, William Hunter 
      wrote:
      
      > Hi All (again),
      >
      >
      > I am trying to integrate a single rheostat for use with both the RockRack
      > switch LEDs and the Dynon Skyview.  In other words I want to have the
      > single rheostat dim both the RockRack indicator LEDs and the Dynon
      > brightness with a turn of a single knob.
      >
      >
      > The Rheostat I bought is a bit confusing.  I thought it would only have
      > only two wires (one in-ey and one out-ey) and I would simply connect the
      > in-ey wire to a fused 12 VDC source and then connect the out-ey to both t
      he
      > Dynon and the RockRack LED input spade.
      >
      >
      > This rheostat however has THREE wires.
      >
      >
      > The instructions have a =9CSimplified Hookup=9D but it states
       that this hookup
      > is for =9CIncandescent Lamps Only=9D.  Is there a reason why 
      I could not use
      > that hookup for the RockRack LEDs?
      >
      >
      > (Attached is a PDF of the instructions for the Rheostat)
      >
      >
      > OTHER INFORMATION:
      >
      >
      > The RockRack have an LED that illuminates when the switch is placed in th
      e
      > ON position.  The voltage source for this LED can either be the output
      > voltage of the switch itself (example:  Turn the landing light ON and the
      > power that goes out to the landing light is also tapped off to provide th
      e
      > power for the LED in the switch) or a rheostat with a controlled voltage
      > can be used as the source of power for the LEDs to make them dimmable.
      >
      >
      > I have the Dynon part figured outit has a =9Cpin 25
      =9D that is a pin that
      > looks for a source signal voltage and when it sees a certain voltage, the
      > screens will dim to a user programmable brightness (example:  If pin 25
      > sees 14 VDC then the screens will go to 100 percent brightness and if the
      y
      > see 7 VDC then they will dim to 50 percent).
      >
      >
      > I do not have the schematic for the RockRack switches so I will have to
      > multimeter the spade connectors to see how to wire them.
      >
      >
      > Any help would be greatly appreciated
      >
      >
      > ..
      >
      >
      > Cheers!!!
      >
      >
      > Bill  Hunter
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Why is this diode there ?
      
      At 12:33 PM 2/4/2017, you wrote:
      >Why is this diode in the Alternator B line ?
      >
      >Is it old thinking from way back in the day and old tech maybe to 
      >protect the older alternators ?
      >
      >
      
      What is the source of this drawing?  This diode MAY
      have been offered as an alternative to b-lead protection
      for failure/crash faults on the line to the alternator.
      but it's in error as to how the starter contactor is
      wired.  There's also a curious diode in the ground power
      contactor wiring.
      
      This drawing has the 'smell' of having been copied from
      some more credible source as a 'simplified' wiring diagram
      not unlike those in the Cessna Pilot Handbooks of yesteryear.
      
      A guy named C.E. Fraley used to sit right behind me in Cessna's
      Tech Pubs department. He used to do all of the POH for the Pawnee
      Plant. On several occasions I was asked to vet figures that he
      distilled from the production wiring documents.
      
      Emacs!
      
      
      The simplification process needs to be conducted carefully
      lest errors creep in.  I suspect that the drawing you cite
      may have fallen victim to errors in transcription.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: RockRack Switches
      
      At 01:33 PM 2/4/2017, you wrote:
      >Does anyone by chance have a schematic for the ON-OFF-ON Rockrack
       switches?=C2
      
      
      Do you have one of these switches in hand?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness and RockRack Switch LEDs
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      Charlie,
      
      
      !!!THANKS!!!
      
      
      Learning is taking place
      
      
      I am running dual SV-1000s plus the KNOBS, AUTOPILOT controller and the 
      SV-RADIO.
      
      
      A SkyView display=99s backlighting can be controlled by the menu 
      SCREEN > DIM to access the DIM Menu but that is a hassle so I want an 
      external dimmer knob. 
      
      
      The Skyview has a pin 26 and this is a 120 HZ Pulse Width Modulation 
      (PWM) signal and it looks like that is what I want. 
      
      
      I have 8 RockRack switches and each has an indicator LED. If I do use 
      pin 26 as the PWM power source for the switch indicator LEDs then I 
      imagine I simply branch off of pin 26 with 8 wires and run each to the 
      "+" spade of the switch LED and then run the "-" spade of the switch LED 
      to a convenient ground.
      
      
      QUESTION #2:  I assume that I wire up my external EPL101x Series 12 V DC 
      Dimmer as a simplified rheostat (bottom diagram) as opposed to a 
      potentiometer (top diagram) in the instruction sheet and then that 
      variable 12 VDC output signal of the rheostat will become the input 
      signal to pin 25 of the Skyview?
      
      
      http://www.pcarv.com/images/Dimmer/EPL1012%20Website%20Instruction%20Shee
      t.pdf
      
      
      THANKS AGAIN I GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP (cyber yelling 
      intentional)!!!
      
      
      ..
      
      
      Cheers!!!
      
      
      Bill  Hunter
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com 
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of 
      Charlie England
      Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 5:51 AM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon 
      Skyview Brightness and RockRack Switch LEDs
      
      
      Which Dynon screen do you have? A friend is winding up a Skyview 
      install, and just mentioned to me that it has a PWM dimmer feature built 
      in that will control panel LEDs in concert with screen brightness. He 
      did mention that the PWM functions on the ground path, so the LEDs are 
      fed 12V and the ground side of the LEDs are wired to the PWM dimmer 
      terminal in the Skyview. So if that's what you have, it's worth diving 
      back into the manual and/or giving Dynon a call.
      
      
      The diagram under the red X shows your control wired as a rheostat. The 
      top diagram shows it wired as a potentiometer (voltage divider). If you 
      wire it as a rheostat, it's unlikely to work well as an LED dimmer. It's 
      unlikely to work well as an LED dimmer, anyway, unless you just get 
      lucky and its resistance value range is perfect for the supply 
      voltage/LED current range needed for bright to dim operation.
      
      
      https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant 
       
      &ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=rheostat+vs+potentiometer
      
      
      Charlie
      
      
      On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 11:24 PM, William Hunter 
       > wrote:
      
      Hi All (again),
      
      
      I am trying to integrate a single rheostat for use with both the 
      RockRack switch LEDs and the Dynon Skyview.  In other words I want to 
      have the single rheostat dim both the RockRack indicator LEDs and the 
      Dynon brightness with a turn of a single knob.
      
      
      The Rheostat I bought is a bit confusing.  I thought it would only have 
      only two wires (one in-ey and one out-ey) and I would simply connect the 
      in-ey wire to a fused 12 VDC source and then connect the out-ey to both 
      the Dynon and the RockRack LED input spade.
      
      
      This rheostat however has THREE wires.  
      
      
      The instructions have a =9CSimplified Hookup=9D but it 
      states that this hookup is for =9CIncandescent Lamps 
      Only=9D.  Is there a reason why I could not use that hookup for 
      the RockRack LEDs?
      
      
      (Attached is a PDF of the instructions for the Rheostat)
      
      
      OTHER INFORMATION:
      
      
      The RockRack have an LED that illuminates when the switch is placed in 
      the ON position.  The voltage source for this LED can either be the 
      output voltage of the switch itself (example:  Turn the landing light ON 
      and the power that goes out to the landing light is also tapped off to 
      provide the power for the LED in the switch) or a rheostat with a 
      controlled voltage can be used as the source of power for the LEDs to 
      make them dimmable.  
      
      
      I have the Dynon part figured outit has a =9Cpin 
      25=9D that is a pin that looks for a source signal voltage and 
      when it sees a certain voltage, the screens will dim to a user 
      programmable brightness (example:  If pin 25 sees 14 VDC then the 
      screens will go to 100 percent brightness and if they see 7 VDC then 
      they will dim to 50 percent).
      
      
      I do not have the schematic for the RockRack switches so I will have to 
      multimeter the spade connectors to see how to wire them.
      
      
      Any help would be greatly appreciated
      
      
      ..
      
      
      Cheers!!!
      
      
      Bill  Hunter
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness and RockRack Switch LEDs
      
      I wish I could be more help, but my knowledge of the Skyview is limited to
      what my friend mentioned to me yesterday. :-)
      
      Basing my answer on 'general principles', it's unlikely that wiring it as a
      rheostat to an actual control pin would do what you want. A control input
      will likely have a very high input impedance, so varying the rheostat's
      resistance would cause little voltage change at the control pin (minimal
      voltage drop because there's minimal current flow through the rheostat).
      When wired as a potentiometer (voltage divider), the resistance between the
      'wiper' (center terminal) and the ground terminal supplies the load, and in
      combination with the input side resistance (between input and wiper),
      creates the load so current actually flows through the pot and voltage
      drops. The control input on the Dynon would then see the varying voltage
      present on the wiper of the pot.
      
      Be sure that you're interpreting correctly how the Dynon pin 25 acts. If it
      has 14 V on it with the Dynon powered up nothing connected to pin 25, then
      Dynon is probably expecting you to supply a varying resistance to ground to
      control the pin. If, on the other hand, there's no voltage on that pin,
      then it's as you expect and Dynon expects you to supply a varying voltage
      to the pin.
      
      Again: this is speculation since I'm not looking at the Dynon manual.
      
      Charlie
      
      On Sun, Feb 5, 2017 at 10:38 AM, William Hunter 
      wrote:
      
      > Charlie,
      >
      >
      > !!!THANKS!!!
      >
      >
      > Learning is taking place
      >
      >
      > I am running dual SV-1000s plus the KNOBS, AUTOPILOT controller and the
      > SV-RADIO.
      >
      >
      > A SkyView display=99s backlighting can be controlled by the menu SC
      REEN >
      > DIM to access the DIM Menu but that is a hassle so I want an external
      > dimmer knob.
      >
      >
      > The Skyview has a pin 26 and this is a 120 HZ Pulse Width Modulation (PWM
      )
      > signal and it looks like that is what I want.
      >
      >
      > I have 8 RockRack switches and each has an indicator LED. If I do use pin
      > 26 as the PWM power source for the switch indicator LEDs then I imagine I
      > simply branch off of pin 26 with 8 wires and run each to the "+" spade of
      > the switch LED and then run the "-" spade of the switch LED to a convenie
      nt
      > ground.
      >
      >
      > QUESTION #2:  I assume that I wire up my external EPL101x Series 12 V DC
      > Dimmer as a simplified rheostat (bottom diagram) as opposed to a
      > potentiometer (top diagram) in the instruction sheet and then that variab
      le
      > 12 VDC output signal of the rheostat will become the input signal to pin 
      25
      > of the Skyview?
      >
      >
      > http://www.pcarv.com/images/Dimmer/EPL1012%20Website%
      > 20Instruction%20Sheet.pdf
      >
      >
      > THANKS AGAIN I GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP (cyber yelling intentional)!!
      !
      >
      >
      > ..
      >
      >
      > Cheers!!!
      >
      >
      > Bill  Hunter
      >
      >
      > *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
      > owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Charlie
      > England
      > *Sent:* Sunday, February 5, 2017 5:51 AM
      > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon
      > Skyview Brightness and RockRack Switch LEDs
      >
      >
      > Which Dynon screen do you have? A friend is winding up a Skyview install,
      > and just mentioned to me that it has a PWM dimmer feature built in that
      > will control panel LEDs in concert with screen brightness. He did mention
      > that the PWM functions on the ground path, so the LEDs are fed 12V and th
      e
      > ground side of the LEDs are wired to the PWM dimmer terminal in the
      > Skyview. So if that's what you have, it's worth diving back into the manu
      al
      > and/or giving Dynon a call.
      >
      >
      > The diagram under the red X shows your control wired as a rheostat. The
      > top diagram shows it wired as a potentiometer (voltage divider). If you
      > wire it as a rheostat, it's unlikely to work well as an LED dimmer. It's
      > unlikely to work well as an LED dimmer, anyway, unless you just get lucky
      > and its resistance value range is perfect for the supply voltage/LED
      > current range needed for bright to dim operation.
      >
      >
      > https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&
      > espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=rheostat+vs+potentiometer
      >
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      >
      > On Sat, Feb 4, 2017 at 11:24 PM, William Hunter <
      > billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com> wrote:
      >
      > Hi All (again),
      >
      >
      > I am trying to integrate a single rheostat for use with both the RockRack
      > switch LEDs and the Dynon Skyview.  In other words I want to have the
      > single rheostat dim both the RockRack indicator LEDs and the Dynon
      > brightness with a turn of a single knob.
      >
      >
      > The Rheostat I bought is a bit confusing.  I thought it would only have
      > only two wires (one in-ey and one out-ey) and I would simply connect the
      > in-ey wire to a fused 12 VDC source and then connect the out-ey to both t
      he
      > Dynon and the RockRack LED input spade.
      >
      >
      > This rheostat however has THREE wires.
      >
      >
      > The instructions have a =9CSimplified Hookup=9D but it states
       that this hookup
      > is for =9CIncandescent Lamps Only=9D.  Is there a reason why 
      I could not use
      > that hookup for the RockRack LEDs?
      >
      >
      > (Attached is a PDF of the instructions for the Rheostat)
      >
      >
      > OTHER INFORMATION:
      >
      >
      > The RockRack have an LED that illuminates when the switch is placed in th
      e
      > ON position.  The voltage source for this LED can either be the output
      > voltage of the switch itself (example:  Turn the landing light ON and the
      > power that goes out to the landing light is also tapped off to provide th
      e
      > power for the LED in the switch) or a rheostat with a controlled voltage
      > can be used as the source of power for the LEDs to make them dimmable.
      >
      >
      > I have the Dynon part figured outit has a =9Cpin 25
      =9D that is a pin that
      > looks for a source signal voltage and when it sees a certain voltage, the
      > screens will dim to a user programmable brightness (example:  If pin 25
      > sees 14 VDC then the screens will go to 100 percent brightness and if the
      y
      > see 7 VDC then they will dim to 50 percent).
      >
      >
      > I do not have the schematic for the RockRack switches so I will have to
      > multimeter the spade connectors to see how to wire them.
      >
      >
      > Any help would be greatly appreciated
      >
      >
      > ..
      >
      >
      > Cheers!!!
      >
      >
      > Bill  Hunter
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Paul Eckenroth <paul(at)eckenroth.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
Subject: 
Off-On-On Switch
      
      Need some help from the experts.  I have been looking for a DPDT switch
      off-on-on non progressive.  It seems like such an animal does not exist.
      The switch will be used for wigwag/ landing lights.  I am considering using
      the wig/wag module sold by Crazed Pilot.  Possibly there is another switch
      that with creative wiring will give off-on-on. If so please advise and
      include the creative wiring required.  I could go with a on-off-on and have
      what I need but I would like to keep all off functions down which is why I
      am searching for the requested switch,
      
      Thanks
      Paul Eckenroth
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      Looking at the SkyView System Installation Guide  Revision U, page 4-23
      
      Pin 26 is negative, NOT positive.  So connect pin 26 to the negative side of LEDs.
      The positive side of LEDs need to be connect to positive 12 VDC.
      
      Pin 25 expects a voltage, no current.  Do NOT use that rheostat.  Notice the rheostat
      directions state in red letters, "Connecting the Red and Black wires directly
      across 12 Volts will instantly burn out the Dimmer!"
      
      Use a 10K potentiometer or ask Dynon what value to use.  I do not think it matters
      as long as the resistance is high enough to limit the current to a few milliamps.
      Connect the two outside POT terminals to GND and positive 12 volts. 
      Connect the center terminal (wiper) to SkyView pin 25.
      
      Disclaimer: I have never wired a SkyView, just read the manual.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465809#465809
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      Possibly B & C part number S700-2-11
      http://www.bandc.aero/toggleswitch-doublepole.aspx
      or
      http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/STG2EE-53/?qs=lk%252bUld%252bvit6bNyz8ck2TZQ%3d%3d
      or
      http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/copal-electronics-inc/ET210PA12-Z/563-1873-ND/5086777
      ET210PA12Z Datasheet:
      http://www.nidec-copal-electronics.com/e/catalog/switch/et.pdf
      ET210PA12Z __ ON ON OFF
      ON Connecting terminals: 23 , 56
      ON Connecting terminals: 56
      OFF Connecting terminals: None
      
      You could call B & C and get their advice.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465810#465810
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Mark Donahue" <marktdonahue(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
solenoid
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      This is not plane related, but a friend has a diesel engine installation in
      his craft.  He has a solenoid that operates a glow plug during starting
      sequence (hold key in glow plug position for 15 seconds before turning to
      start).  The pre heat was not working so he has replaced the solenoid per
      the part list on the manual drawing which lists as 24v.  But the system is
      wired for 12v.  So the question is will a 24 volt solenoid work with 12 volt
      input?  
      
      Thanks,
      
      Mark Donahue
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      Paul
      
      Would Mike bullocks idea suit you better, not needing the 'crazed pilot' wig wag
      
      http://www.rvplane.com/?categoryid=&dayid=1145
      
      John
      
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
           ----x--O--x----
      
      > On 5 Feb 2017, at 08:13 pm, Paul Eckenroth  wrote:
      > 
      > Need some help from the experts.  I have been looking for a DPDT switch off-on-on
      non progressive.  It seems like such an animal does not exist.  The switch
      will be used for wigwag/ landing lights.  I am considering using the wig/wag
      module sold by Crazed Pilot.  Possibly there is another switch that with creative
      wiring will give off-on-on. If so please advise and include the creative
      wiring required.  I could go with a on-off-on and have what I need but I would
      like to keep all off functions down which is why I am searching for the requested
      switch,
      > 
      > Thanks
      > Paul Eckenroth
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: RockRack Switches
From: 
"donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      Is this what you're looking for?
      
      http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/RockRack-connections.pdf
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465813#465813
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: solenoid
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      Probably will not work.  By solenoid, I assume that you mean relay.  Once pulled
      in, a relay will hold with half voltage.  The problem is pulling it in initially.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465814#465814
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      Charlie and Joe,
      
      As always I am very grateful for your help.
      
      So the "DIM OUTPUT" signal is essentially a "variable ground" (I think they could
      have called it something different than "output"...just say 'in).
      
      The Skyview manual states that the DIM OUTPUT "can sink a maximum current of 120mA
      and a maximum voltage of 40V."  So for my landing light circuit simply branch
      off one extra wire from the same spade as the circuit that goes to the landing
      light (+) and run this second wire to the (+) spade of the switch indicator
      light? 
      
      I just received this from the dimmer manufacturer:  "To clarify, the EPL1012 is
      a pulse width modulated power switch and not a rheostat.  The switching takes
      place between the red wire and the black wire.  The white wire supplies power
      to the switching circuit at around 300 Hz. Please note that there is no current
      limiting within the dimmer."
      
      Since the dimmer is essentially a variable voltage digital signal I am curious
      to see if it would work for the pin 25.  I am hoping against hope because I already
      cut the hole in my panel for the dimmer...and I really like the looks of
      the little knob.  I will ask Dynon.
      
      THANKS AGAIN!!!!
      ..
      
      Cheers!!!
      
      Bill  Hunter
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253
      Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 2:10 PM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
      
      
      Looking at the SkyView System Installation Guide  Revision U, page 4-23
      
      Pin 26 is negative, NOT positive.  So connect pin 26 to the negative side of LEDs.
      The positive side of LEDs need to be connect to positive 12 VDC.
      
      Pin 25 expects a voltage, no current.  Do NOT use that rheostat.  Notice the rheostat
      directions state in red letters, "Connecting the Red and Black wires directly
      across 12 Volts will instantly burn out the Dimmer!"
      
      Use a 10K potentiometer or ask Dynon what value to use.  I do not think it matters
      as long as the resistance is high enough to limit the current to a few milliamps.
      Connect the two outside POT terminals to GND and positive 12 volts. 
      Connect the center terminal (wiper) to SkyView pin 25.
      
      Disclaimer: I have never wired a SkyView, just read the manual.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465809#465809
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon  Skyview
      Brightness a
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      I wondered about whether that gadget was just a potentiometer, but there 
      wasn't enough info in the brochure to tell. You might be able to use it 
      to control overall system brightness, but you need to consult the manual 
      (and Dynon).
      
      You *really* need to speak with, as in on the phone, Dynon. Again, I 
      don't have the manual. But your description of the language indicates 
      that pin 25 is the pin I mentioned in my earlier email. Key words are 
      'output' and 'sink'. They didn't call it an 'in' because it isn't 
      listening; it's controlling. Sink type controls can be really confusing 
      to understand, if you're not 'electron indoctrinated'. :-) Think of it 
      like the Master switch in the Z diagrams; the Master is a sink-type 
      control for the master contactor. It works on the ground side of the 
      circuit. (Double E's, please forgive the analogy...)
      
      If we're getting the full picture on what the pin is doing, you would 
      connect bus supply voltage to any LEDs you want lit, and the other leads 
      would be collected and tied to pin 25. The LEDs' brightness will then 
      track the Skyview's brightness. You have to be sure that the total 
      current of all the LEDs added together is less than 120mA (which isn't 
      much). Also, know that if you have LEDs of different pedigrees, they 
      will all track the Skyview, but will likely have different relative 
      intensities. That can be adjusted by inserting various value resisters 
      in each LED's circuit (another discussion).
      
      For dimming a landing light *indicator* LED, you'd tie the load side of 
      the switch (the + terminal of the landing light) to the indicator LED, 
      and the other terminal of the indicator LED to pin 25.
      
      Charlie
      
      
      On 2/5/2017 6:52 PM, William Hunter wrote:
      >
      > Charlie and Joe,
      >
      > As always I am very grateful for your help.
      >
      > So the "DIM OUTPUT" signal is essentially a "variable ground" (I think they could
      have called it something different than "output"...just say 'in).
      >
      > The Skyview manual states that the DIM OUTPUT "can sink a maximum current of
      120mA and a maximum voltage of 40V."  So for my landing light circuit simply branch
      off one extra wire from the same spade as the circuit that goes to the landing
      light (+) and run this second wire to the (+) spade of the switch indicator
      light?
      >
      > I just received this from the dimmer manufacturer:  "To clarify, the EPL1012
      is a pulse width modulated power switch and not a rheostat.  The switching takes
      place between the red wire and the black wire.  The white wire supplies power
      to the switching circuit at around 300 Hz. Please note that there is no current
      limiting within the dimmer."
      >
      > Since the dimmer is essentially a variable voltage digital signal I am curious
      to see if it would work for the pin 25.  I am hoping against hope because I
      already cut the hole in my panel for the dimmer...and I really like the looks
      of the little knob.  I will ask Dynon.
      >
      > THANKS AGAIN!!!!
      > ..
      >
      > Cheers!!!
      >
      > Bill  Hunter
      >
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253
      > Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 2:10 PM
      > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
      >
      >
      > Looking at the SkyView System Installation Guide  Revision U, page 4-23
      >
      > Pin 26 is negative, NOT positive.  So connect pin 26 to the negative side of
      LEDs.  The positive side of LEDs need to be connect to positive 12 VDC.
      >
      > Pin 25 expects a voltage, no current.  Do NOT use that rheostat.  Notice the
      rheostat directions state in red letters, "Connecting the Red and Black wires
      directly across 12 Volts will instantly burn out the Dimmer!"
      >
      > Use a 10K potentiometer or ask Dynon what value to use.  I do not think it matters
      as long as the resistance is high enough to limit the current to a few milliamps.
      Connect the two outside POT terminals to GND and positive 12 volts.
      Connect the center terminal (wiper) to SkyView pin 25.
      >
      > Disclaimer: I have never wired a SkyView, just read the manual.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 05, 2017
      
      
      It seems that the EPL1012 and the SkyView work the same.  They both pulse the negative
      supply.  Connecting the EPL1012 directly to the SkyView DIM INPUT (Pin
      25) is unlikely to work.  But it might be possible to connect resistors and a
      capacitor between the output of the EPL1012 and pin 25 of the SkyView to smooth
      out the pulses.
        It would be a whole lot easier to use a potentiometer instead of the EPL1012
      .  Maybe one can be found to fit the hole that you drilled.  What size hole is
      it?
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465825#465825
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chuck - Vanc" <ChuckGauthier(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
      
      This is a configuration that  I used.  It minimizes the
      panel space requirements.
      
      
      Chuck Gauthier 
      
      
      
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Off-On-On Switch
      
      From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com
       >
      
      
      Possibly B & C part number S700-2-11
      
      http://www.bandc.aero/toggleswitch-doublepole.aspx
      
      or
      
      http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/STG
      2EE-53/?qs=lk%252bUld%252bvit6bNyz8ck2TZQ%3d%3d
      
      or
      
      http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/copal-electronics-i
      nc/ET210PA12-Z/563-1873-ND/5086777
      
      ET210PA12Z Datasheet:
      
      http://www.nidec-copal-electronics.com/e/catalog/switch/et.p
      df
      
      ET210PA12Z __ ON ON OFF
      
      ON Connecting terminals: 23 , 56
      
      ON Connecting terminals: 56
      
      OFF Connecting terminals: None
      
      
      You could call B & C and get their advice.
      
      
      --------
      
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465810#465810
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
      
      
      If the hole in the panel is too big for a POT, glue or rivet a reducing washer
      to the other side of the panel.  Mount a 10K pot and put the knob from the EPL1012
      on the pot shaft.  Connect the pot center wiper to SkyView pin 25.  Connect
      12 volts across the other two pot terminals.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465833#465833
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
Subject: 
fluid level sensor
      
      Can you guys tell me if this (153064) would be an appropriate sensor for my
      5 gallon header tank to turn on an LED if the tank is not full?
      
      sensor: http://ecatalog.gemssensors.com/ecatalog/singlepoint-level/en/153064
      
      LED:
      https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lstestled.php?clickkey=485496
      
      sensor catalog page:
      http://www.gemssensors.com/level/Single-Point-Level-Switches/Electro-optic/Engineered-Plastic/~/media/GemsNA/CatalogPages/ELS-1100HT-cat.ashx
      
      Thanks,
      
      Ken
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
From: 
Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: 
Re: fluid level sensor
      
      Looking up the chemical resistance of the plastic from which this sensor is
      manufactured it appears to have excellent resistance to all forms of gasoli
      ne,
      benzine, astm fuels and astm oils as well as ethylene glycol and brake flui
      d..
      So yes, it would appear suitable for use in a header tank. However a query 
      to
      the manufacturer requesting their opinion would yield the safest answer. Te
      ll
      them the application is for level in a fuel storage tank NOT an aircraft he
      ader
      tank.=F0=9F=98=84
      
      Bob McC
      
      > ---------- Original Message ----------
      >     From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
      >     Date: February 6, 2017 at 10:19 AM
      > 
      >     Can you guys tell me if this (153064) would be an appropriate sensor 
      for
      > my 5 gallon header tank to turn on an LED if the tank is not full?
      > 
      >     sensor:
      > http://ecatalog.gemssensors.com/ecatalog/singlepoint-level/en/153064
      > 
      >     LED:
      > https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lstestled.php?clickkey=4
      85496
      > 
      >     sensor catalog page:
      > http://www.gemssensors.com/level/Single-Point-Level-Switches/Electro-opti
      c/Engineered-Plastic/~/media/GemsNA/CatalogPages/ELS-1100HT-cat.ashx
      > 
      >     Thanks,
      > 
      >     Ken
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: fluid level sensor
      
      At 09:19 AM 2/6/2017, you wrote:
      >Can you guys tell me if this (153064) would be an appropriate sensor 
      >for my 5 gallon header tank to turn on an LED if the tank is not full?
      
         Polysulfone enclosure material for this device is
         very compatible with motor fuels.
      
         I proposed using this sensor as a component of
         an upgrade to a series of low liquid level sensors
         I worked on for Electro-Mech WAaaayyy back when . . .
      
         We crafted a series of optical liquid level sensors
         that were widely used on Beech products. It looks
         like they still make some version of them . . .
      
      http://tinyurl.com/hgs24nt
      
         When the Premier was still under development, I
         became aware of dismal failure rate in these
         devices. Given the simplicity of the product,
         it was rather astounding.  Dean Matson and I
         were co-developers of the original concept and
         we were working together at Beech's Targets
         division when the news came to us.
      
         To make a long story short, this program proved
         to be a fine example of what can happen when a
         small, tightly coupled design, development and
         manufacturing operation gets bought out and
         'upgraded' with all the albatrosses and millstones
         of the parent corporation after a buyout.
      
         I suggested that the fast-turn solution for the
         failures was to modify a GEM sensor to fit into
         the stock Electro-Mech enclosure. Had this
         problem surfaced in the same regulatory and
         business environment I enjoyed in 1985, we could
         have put the fix into production in a couple
         months at most. But in 2004 . . . well . . .
      
         I was pretty busy fighting other fires then and
         I don't know what they wound up doing to fix
         the EM product . . . but the short answer to your
         question is that the GEM sensor is well suited to
         the application you are proposing.
      
         For those interested in the history of this technology
         in aircraft, I've posted a few snapshots of my own
         experience with it at http://tinyurl.com/h586hp9
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
"jrevens" <jrevens(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
      
      
      paul(at)eckenroth.com wrote:
      > Need some help from the experts. I have been looking for a DPDT switch off-on-on
      non progressive. It seems like such an animal does not exist. The switch will
      be used for wigwag/ landing lights. I am considering using the wig/wag module
      sold by Crazed Pilot. Possibly there is another switch that with creative
      wiring will give off-on-on. If so please advise and include the creative wiring
      required. I could go with a on-off-on and have what I need but I would like
      to keep all off functions down which is why I am searching for the requested switch,
      > 
      > Thanks
      > Paul Eckenroth
      
      
      Hi Paul,
      
      You can use a 2-10 (on-on-on) switch like what Bob shows on his Z-16 drawing as
      a master switch. You could wire it like Bob shows in Figure 11-17 on page 11-19
      of the AeroElectric Connection. That's what I did for my landing light to have
      the down position "off", center "landing", & up "wig-wag".  You could configure
      whatever order you like.
      
      --------
      John Evens
      Thorp T-18 N71JE (built & flying)
      Kitfox SS7 N27JE (building)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465845#465845
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Vern Smith <taildrgr60(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
      
      UmUuIExFRCBkaW1tZXIuLi50cnkgdXNpbmcgYSBMTTMxN1QgIHdpdGggYSBwb3RlbnRpb21ldGVy
      IChOTyByaGVvc3RhdCksIHNpbXBsZSBhbmQgY2hlYXAsIEdvb2dsZSBmb3IgY2lyY3VpdA0KDQoN
      ClNlbnQgZnJvbSBNYWlsPGh0dHBzOi8vZ28ubWljcm9zb2Z0LmNvbS9md2xpbmsvP0xpbmtJZD01
      NTA5ODY+IGZvciBXaW5kb3dzIDEwDQoNCg=
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
RockRack Switches
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
      
      Don,
      
      
      THANKS for the link however sadly that schematic is for the OFF-ON 
      switch.
      
      
      Bob says> Do you have one of these switches in hand?
      
      
      I do not have the switches in hand however this is what the vendor has
      provided thus far (he is expanding his offerings of switches and he is
      working on getting me a schematic of what terminal spades are 
      electrically
      connected when the switch is in each position.
      
      
      ..
      
      
      Cheers!!!
      
      
      Bill  Hunter
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of 
      Robert L.
      Nuckolls, III
      Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 7:23 AM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RockRack Switches
      
      
      At 01:33 PM 2/4/2017, you wrote:
      
      
      Does anyone by chance have a schematic for the ON-OFF-ON Rockrack 
      switches?=C2
      
      
      Do you have one of these switches in hand?
      
      
        Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Paul Eckenroth <N509RV(at)eckenroth.com>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
      
      Thanks everyone for the feedback.  It seems like all the switches mentioned
      are progressive.  Am I interpreting things correctly in that power feed to
      the wigwag module will of course cause the lights to wigwag.  When power is
      applied directly to the lights without removing the power from the wigwag
      module then the lights go on steady with no harm done to the wigwag module?
      I have the schematic from Aeroelectric for the wigwag/ landing using one
      switch 2-10.  Can someone explain the need for the bridge rectifier.  Also
      is there a source somewhere for the individual switch schematics from
      Carling.
      
      Paul
      
      On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 8:37 AM, Chuck - Vanc 
      wrote:
      
      > This is a configuration that  I used.  It minimizes the panel space
      > requirements.
      >
      >
      > Chuck Gauthier
      >
      >
      >
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Off-On-On Switch
      >
      > From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
      >
      >
      > Possibly B & C part number S700-2-11
      >
      > http://www.bandc.aero/toggleswitch-doublepole.aspx
      >
      > or
      >
      > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/STG
      > 2EE-53/?qs=lk%252bUld%252bvit6bNyz8ck2TZQ%3d%3d
      >
      > or
      >
      > http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/copal-electronics-i
      > nc/ET210PA12-Z/563-1873-ND/5086777
      >
      > ET210PA12Z Datasheet:
      >
      > http://www.nidec-copal-electronics.com/e/catalog/switch/et.pdf
      >
      > ET210PA12Z __ ON ON OFF
      >
      > ON Connecting terminals: 23 , 56
      >
      > ON Connecting terminals: 56
      >
      > OFF Connecting terminals: None
      >
      >
      > You could call B & C and get their advice.
      >
      >
      > --------
      >
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465810#465810
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
DeWitt Whittington <dee.whittington(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
Subject: 
Re: fluid level sensor
      
      Ken,
      
      For what it's worth, here is the information on the two level switches we
      bought for our Subaru back in 2009. I just dialed the phone number for
      e-Components International and got voice mail which appeared to be the same
      person, Tammy, which we dealt with back then.
      
      Manufacturer: Fozmula Limited Griffiths House, Hermes Close, Tachbrook
      Park, Warwick, CV34 6UF, United Kingdom
      Tel: +44 (0) 1926 466700   |   Fax: +44 (0) 1926 450473   |
      http://www.fozmula.com/
      
      Tammy was the local rep we dealt with at:
      
      e-Components International Inc.
      307 Spring Hill Road
      Lancaster, VA 22503
      United States
      ph: 804-462-5679
      fax: 804-462-0556
      sales@e-components.net
      
      We bought:
      
      S85/03 1/4" NPTF capacitive Fozmula switch for engine coolant
      
      S86/03 Capacitive Fozmula switch 1/4" switch for gasoline
      
      Dee
      
      
      DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
      Richmond, VA
      804-677-4849 iPhone
      804-358-4333 Home
      
      
      On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 10:19 AM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      > Can you guys tell me if this (153064) would be an appropriate sensor for
      > my 5 gallon header tank to turn on an LED if the tank is not full?
      >
      > sensor: http://ecatalog.gemssensors.com/ecatalog/
      > singlepoint-level/en/153064
      >
      > LED: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lstestled.php?
      > clickkey=485496
      >
      > sensor catalog page: http://www.gemssensors.com/level/Single-Point-Level-
      > Switches/Electro-optic/Engineered-Plastic/~/media/GemsNA/CatalogPages/ELS-
      > 1100HT-cat.ashx
      >
      > Thanks,
      >
      > Ken
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: 
fluid level sensor
Date: 
Feb 06, 2017
      
      
      One other potential approach for your consideration...  Belite
      Electronics makes lightweight, low-cost instrumentation for ultralight
      and experimental aircraft. They have developed a line of fuel sensors
      and gauges that are pretty cool. You can go to
      http://www.beliteaircraft.com, then go to their "electronics" page to
      see all the gauges.
      
      They sell capacitance fuel probes that are much lighter and less
      expensive than the "commercial" ones, and will custom make them to your
      length if desired. And they make several different single- and dual-tank
      gauges (including the "Radiant" gauges that were featured in Kitplanes
      and AvWeb feature articles).
      
      But the one I really like is the "Low Profile Fuel Probe," which is a
      MEMS-based "pressure-reading" transducer that effectively measures the
      mass of the fuel in the tank. It can be purchased with a "fuel computer"
      that calibrates and translates the fuel probe's output into 0.0 volts
      (empty) to 5.0 volts (full), with intermediate calibration points at
      1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 levels. It can also be purchased without the fuel
      computer, for use with the "Radiant" fuel gauges that already have the
      calibration/translation feature built in.
      
      I plan to use the low-profile fuel probe (without computer - $100) and
      the Radiant dual-tank gauge ($300) as the primary fuel level indicator
      for the Bearhawk Patrol I'm building. I'll have sight glass tubes as a
      backup, but they are harder to see from the pilot's seat. The two probes
      and the gauge together will add only a few ounces to the empty weight -
      probably about as much as the wiring from panel to wing tanks!
      
      But that solution would probably be major overkill for your intended
      purpose of monitoring the fuel level in the header tank. For that, I
      would use the Low Profile Fuel Probe (with fuel computer - $200) and the
      single-display Fuel Gauge ($80). 
      
      Some of you are probably be creative (and skilled) enough to forgo the
      fuel computer or even the gauge, creating your own circuit to measure
      the sensor output and decide when to turn on a "warning light" when the
      level drops below your desired level. But me  I'm too much of a
      "newb" to even attempt such a thing, so I'll stick to a "professionally
      designed" system.
      
      Jim Parker
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Paul Eckenroth <N509RV(at)eckenroth.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
      
      Thanks everyone for the feedback.  It seems like all the switches mentioned
      are progressive.  Am I interpreting things correctly in that power feed to
      the wigwag module will of course cause the lights to wigwag.  If power is
      applied directly to the lights without removing the power from the wigwag
      module then the lights go on steady with no harm done to the wigwag module.
      I have the schematic from Aeroelectric for the wigwag/ landing using one
      switch 2-10.  Can someone explain the need for the bridge rectifier.  Also
      is there a source somewhere for the individual switch schematics from
      Carling.  It seems to me that with the information given in the data sheets
      you don't really know what you are getting.
      
      Paul
      
      On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 8:37 AM, Chuck - Vanc 
      wrote:
      
      > This is a configuration that  I used.  It minimizes the panel space
      > requirements.
      >
      >
      > Chuck Gauthier
      >
      >
      >
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Off-On-On Switch
      >
      > From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
      >
      >
      > Possibly B & C part number S700-2-11
      >
      > http://www.bandc.aero/toggleswitch-doublepole.aspx
      >
      > or
      >
      > http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/
      > STG2EE-53/?qs=lk%252bUld%252bvit6bNyz8ck2TZQ%3d%3d
      >
      > or
      >
      > http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/copal-electronics-
      > inc/ET210PA12-Z/563-1873-ND/5086777
      >
      > ET210PA12Z Datasheet:
      >
      > http://www.nidec-copal-electronics.com/e/catalog/switch/et.pdf
      >
      > ET210PA12Z __ ON ON OFF
      >
      > ON Connecting terminals: 23 , 56
      >
      > ON Connecting terminals: 56
      >
      > OFF Connecting terminals: None
      >
      >
      > You could call B & C and get their advice.
      >
      >
      > --------
      >
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465810#465810
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      
      I know that everyone has been waiting in major suspense for this...
      
      (SPOILER ALERT)
      
      I just got my response from Dynon...the ELP101x PWM dimmer will NOT work for
      the Skyview remote dimmer function through pin 25.  !!!DANG!!!
      
      Pin 25 needs to see a regular, old, boring 0 to 14 VDC signal.
      
      Should I use a rheostat or potentiometer for this signal?
      
      For either device, I need to tap off of an always hot, protected 14 VDC
      wire.  
      
      I am considering tapping off of the wire that provides the power feed to the
      Dynon because if I used another source (such as a landing light feed wire)
      and should that devices CB pop then I do not have the dimmer control of the
      Dynon and if the pin 25 sees 0 VDC then it will go to minimum brightness.
      That could be bad...
      
      Is tapping off of the Dynon power feed what you all would recommend?
      Naturally there is a load associated with the variable resistance of the
      rheostat/potentiometer however I am not able to calculate that load. The
      Dynon CB is only 5 AMPS. 
      
      I do not think it necessary to run a completely different CB for this dimmer
      circuit...or do I?!?!?   
      
      If I install a potentiometer, I think I will need to run that feed wire to
      lug #3 of a potentiometer and then connect lug #1 to ground.  The center lug
      (wiper) will go to pin 25.  Is the electrical path of my thinking correct?
      
      THANKS AGAIN!!!
      ..
      
      Cheers!!!
      
      Bill  Hunter
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253
      Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 8:09 PM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon
      Skyview Brightness a
      
      
      It seems that the EPL1012 and the SkyView work the same.  They both pulse
      the negative supply.  Connecting the EPL1012 directly to the SkyView DIM
      INPUT (Pin 25) is unlikely to work.  But it might be possible to connect
      resistors and a capacitor between the output of the EPL1012 and pin 25 of
      the SkyView to smooth out the pulses.
        It would be a whole lot easier to use a potentiometer instead of the
      EPL1012 .  Maybe one can be found to fit the hole that you drilled.  What
      size hole is it?
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465825#465825
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
From: 
Eric Page <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      Bill,
      
      Pin 25 will almost certainly be an input to either an op-amp buffer or an an
      alog-to-digital converter.  This means there will be virtually no current fl
      ow into Pin 25; it merely "senses" the voltage present.  This being the case
      , you can use any common potentiometer of 10k ohm or greater to produce the 0
      -14V signal, and current through the pot would be 1.4 milliamps (0.0014 amps
      ) maximum.  The exact value of the pot makes no difference; its mechanical d
      imensions will be most important to you.
      
      Connect one end of the pot to 14V (the Dynon's supply voltage is fine), the o
      pposite end to ground, and the middle (wiper) to Pin 25.  If you find that t
      he pot works backwards, just swap the 14V and ground connections on the pot.
      
      
      The mechanical drawing of the ELP1012 dimmer...
      
      http://www.pcarv.com/images/Dimmer/EPL1012%20Mechanical%20Drawing.jpg
      
      ...seems to indicate two possible mounting hole sizes: 0.265" or 0.375".  Wh
      at size hole do you have in your panel?  If you'll reply with that, we can h
      elp you find a potentiometer that will work, and fit your hole.
      
      Eric
      
      
      > On Feb 7, 2017, at 10:11 AM, William Hunter  w
      rote:
      > 
      l(at)gmail.com>
      > 
      > I know that everyone has been waiting in major suspense for this...
      > 
      > (SPOILER ALERT)
      > 
      > I just got my response from Dynon...the ELP101x PWM dimmer will NOT work f
      or
      > the Skyview remote dimmer function through pin 25.  !!!DANG!!!
      > 
      > Pin 25 needs to see a regular, old, boring 0 to 14 VDC signal.
      > 
      > Should I use a rheostat or potentiometer for this signal?
      > 
      > For either device, I need to tap off of an always hot, protected 14 VDC
      > wire.  
      > 
      > I am considering tapping off of the wire that provides the power feed to t
      he
      > Dynon because if I used another source (such as a landing light feed wire)
      
      > and should that devices CB pop then I do not have the dimmer control of th
      e
      > Dynon and if the pin 25 sees 0 VDC then it will go to minimum brightness.
      > That could be bad...
      > 
      > Is tapping off of the Dynon power feed what you all would recommend?
      > Naturally there is a load associated with the variable resistance of the
      > rheostat/potentiometer however I am not able to calculate that load. The
      > Dynon CB is only 5 AMPS. 
      > 
      > I do not think it necessary to run a completely different CB for this dimm
      er
      > circuit...or do I?!?!?   
      > 
      > If I install a potentiometer, I think I will need to run that feed wire to
      
      > lug #3 of a potentiometer and then connect lug #1 to ground.  The center l
      ug
      > (wiper) will go to pin 25.  Is the electrical path of my thinking correct?
      
      > 
      > THANKS AGAIN!!!
      > ..
      > 
      > Cheers!!!
      > 
      > Bill  Hunter
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user925
      3
      > Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 8:09 PM
      > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon
      > Skyview Brightness a
      > 
      > 
      > It seems that the EPL1012 and the SkyView work the same.  They both pulse
      > the negative supply.  Connecting the EPL1012 directly to the SkyView DIM
      > INPUT (Pin 25) is unlikely to work.  But it might be possible to connect
      > resistors and a capacitor between the output of the EPL1012 and pin 25 of
      > the SkyView to smooth out the pulses.
      >  It would be a whole lot easier to use a potentiometer instead of the
      > EPL1012 .  Maybe one can be found to fit the hole that you drilled.  What
      > size hole is it?
      > 
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465825#465825
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      
      Bill, your reasoning is correct.  But do NOT use a rheostat because it has low
      resistance and will draw too much current.  Use a 5K or 10K POT or whatever Dynon
      recommends.  The pot will only draw a couple of milliamps.  You could get
      12 volts from SV-EMS-220 pin 15 or any convenient place.  Pin 15 probably has
      internal over-current protection.  The SkyView fuse can be increased in size from
      5 to 7.5 amps, not because of the pot, but because a 5 amp fuse can blow under
      certain conditions.  A friend of mine was on a long cross country when his
      SkyView display went dark because the 5 amp fuse blew.  He replaced the fuse
      in flight, and the replacement fuse also blew.  Luckily it was a daytime VFR
      flight.  The reason the fuse blew was that, prior to the flight, he had been running
      the SkyView from its backup battery and ran it down.  While on the cross
      country flight, the SkyView was drawing maximum current to both operate the
      EFIS and to charge the backup battery.  He called Dynon because he thought the
      SkyView was defective.  They recommended that he power the SkyView through a
      7.5 amp fuse.  He did and no more problems.  If your plane has circuit breakers,
      not fuses, a 5 amp breaker will probably be adequate because circuit breakers
      are slower to trip than fuses.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465872#465872
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      
      Paul,
      You asked about the bridge rectifier.  Can you post the schematic or a link to
      it?
      For Carling schematics, try a Google search for "carling switch pinout".
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465873#465873
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
Subject: 
Re: fluid level sensor
      
      Thanks for the responses. I'll probably use the Gems but it's good to know
      there are other options.
      
      On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 3:48 PM,  wrote:
      
      >
      > One other potential approach for your consideration...  Belite
      > Electronics makes lightweight, low-cost instrumentation for ultralight
      > and experimental aircraft. They have developed a line of fuel sensors
      > and gauges that are pretty cool. You can go to
      > http://www.beliteaircraft.com, then go to their "electronics" page to
      > see all the gauges.
      >
      > They sell capacitance fuel probes that are much lighter and less
      > expensive than the "commercial" ones, and will custom make them to your
      > length if desired. And they make several different single- and dual-tank
      > gauges (including the "Radiant" gauges that were featured in Kitplanes
      > and AvWeb feature articles).
      >
      > But the one I really like is the "Low Profile Fuel Probe," which is a
      > MEMS-based "pressure-reading" transducer that effectively measures the
      > mass of the fuel in the tank. It can be purchased with a "fuel computer"
      > that calibrates and translates the fuel probe's output into 0.0 volts
      > (empty) to 5.0 volts (full), with intermediate calibration points at
      > 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 levels. It can also be purchased without the fuel
      > computer, for use with the "Radiant" fuel gauges that already have the
      > calibration/translation feature built in.
      >
      > I plan to use the low-profile fuel probe (without computer - $100) and
      > the Radiant dual-tank gauge ($300) as the primary fuel level indicator
      > for the Bearhawk Patrol I'm building. I'll have sight glass tubes as a
      > backup, but they are harder to see from the pilot's seat. The two probes
      > and the gauge together will add only a few ounces to the empty weight -
      > probably about as much as the wiring from panel to wing tanks!
      >
      > But that solution would probably be major overkill for your intended
      > purpose of monitoring the fuel level in the header tank. For that, I
      > would use the Low Profile Fuel Probe (with fuel computer - $200) and the
      > single-display Fuel Gauge ($80).
      >
      > Some of you are probably be creative (and skilled) enough to forgo the
      > fuel computer or even the gauge, creating your own circuit to measure
      > the sensor output and decide when to turn on a "warning light" when the
      > level drops below your desired level. But me =93 I'm too much of a
      > "newb" to even attempt such a thing, so I'll stick to a "professionally
      > designed" system.
      >
      > Jim Parker
      >
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Paul Eckenroth <N509RV(at)eckenroth.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
      
      Joe
      
      Here is a link to the Aeroelectric article.  The schematic is page 3,
      single source, single switch.
      
      Paul
      
      On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 3:34 PM, user9253  wrote:
      
      >
      > Paul,
      > You asked about the bridge rectifier.  Can you post the schematic or a
      > link to it?
      > For Carling schematics, try a Google search for "carling switch pinout".
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465873#465873
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      
      The link is missing.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465876#465876
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ryan Brown <ribrdb(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
Subject: 
Re: RockRack Switches
      
      Aren't these just carling contura switches with fancy labels?
      http://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/V-Series-IV-V-VII_datasheet.pdf
      
      On Sun, Feb 5, 2017 at 4:48 PM donjohnston <don@velocity-xl.com> wrote:
      
      > don@velocity-xl.com>
      >
      > Is this what you're looking for?
      >
      > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/RockRack-connections.pdf
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465813#465813
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Dynon Intercom question
From: 
"Airdog77" <Airdog77(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      
      Hi folks,
      
      I was dong some research when I ran across a Dynon forum post with one of the Dynon
      guys saying that they no longer recommend using the SV-INTERCOM-2S intercom
      with a switch (as it was specifically designed to do) for switching between
      two different com radios.
      
      Since I bought one of these units over a year ago, I was wondering if anyone has
      installed one and used it successfully for switching between two com radios?
      Apparently the issue is that there is no interlock, so there's crosstalk going
      on between the com channels.
      
      If there's a lack of any actionable intel, I was hoping Bob or one of you other
      electrically smart guys might have an idea for a work around.
      
      I spoke with Dynon and they will work with me to get a refund, but since I've already
      integrated it into my panel plans and have reserved a spot specifically
      for its dimensions (I'm in a Long-EZ and space is TIGHT), I would like to see
      if I could make this work before going a different route.  Thanks!
      
      Regards,
      Wade
      
      --------
      Airdog
      Wade Parton
      Building Long-EZ 916WP
      www.longezpush.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465879#465879
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: fluid level sensor
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      Don't forget to check ebay before purchasing; there are often much 
      better deals there on the Gems type sensors.
      
      Charlie
      
      On 2/7/2017 3:00 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      > Thanks for the responses. I'll probably use the Gems but it's good to 
      > know there are other options.
      >
      > On Mon, Feb 6, 2017 at 3:48 PM,  > wrote:
      >
      >     >
      >
      >     One other potential approach for your consideration... Belite
      >     Electronics makes lightweight, low-cost instrumentation for ultralight
      >     and experimental aircraft. They have developed a line of fuel sensors
      >     and gauges that are pretty cool. You can go to
      >     http://www.beliteaircraft.com, then go to their "electronics" page to
      >     see all the gauges.
      >
      >     They sell capacitance fuel probes that are much lighter and less
      >     expensive than the "commercial" ones, and will custom make them to
      >     your
      >     length if desired. And they make several different single- and
      >     dual-tank
      >     gauges (including the "Radiant" gauges that were featured in Kitplanes
      >     and AvWeb feature articles).
      >
      >     But the one I really like is the "Low Profile Fuel Probe," which is a
      >     MEMS-based "pressure-reading" transducer that effectively measures the
      >     mass of the fuel in the tank. It can be purchased with a "fuel
      >     computer"
      >     that calibrates and translates the fuel probe's output into 0.0 volts
      >     (empty) to 5.0 volts (full), with intermediate calibration points at
      >     1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 levels. It can also be purchased without the fuel
      >     computer, for use with the "Radiant" fuel gauges that already have the
      >     calibration/translation feature built in.
      >
      >     I plan to use the low-profile fuel probe (without computer - $100) and
      >     the Radiant dual-tank gauge ($300) as the primary fuel level indicator
      >     for the Bearhawk Patrol I'm building. I'll have sight glass tubes as a
      >     backup, but they are harder to see from the pilot's seat. The two
      >     probes
      >     and the gauge together will add only a few ounces to the empty
      >     weight -
      >     probably about as much as the wiring from panel to wing tanks!
      >
      >     But that solution would probably be major overkill for your intended
      >     purpose of monitoring the fuel level in the header tank. For that, I
      >     would use the Low Profile Fuel Probe (with fuel computer - $200)
      >     and the
      >     single-display Fuel Gauge ($80).
      >
      >     Some of you are probably be creative (and skilled) enough to forgo the
      >     fuel computer or even the gauge, creating your own circuit to measure
      >     the sensor output and decide when to turn on a "warning light"
      >     when the
      >     level drops below your desired level. But me  I'm too much of a
      >     "newb" to even attempt such a thing, so I'll stick to a
      >     "professionally
      >     designed" system.
      >
      >     Jim Parker
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Paul Eckenroth <N509RV(at)eckenroth.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
      
      Let me try that again.  Need to make the slight extra effort to add the
      link.
      http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
      
      Paul
      
      On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 4:04 PM, Paul Eckenroth  wrote:
      
      > Joe
      >
      > Here is a link to the Aeroelectric article.  The schematic is page 3,
      > single source, single switch.
      >
      > Paul
      >
      > On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 3:34 PM, user9253  wrote:
      >
      >>
      >> Paul,
      >> You asked about the bridge rectifier.  Can you post the schematic or a
      >> link to it?
      >> For Carling schematics, try a Google search for "carling switch pinout".
      >>
      >> --------
      >> Joe Gores
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465873#465873
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 07, 2017
      
      
      OK, I looked at the schematic.  The reason for the bridge diode is to isolate flasher
      terminals 2 and 3.  Without the diodes, terminals 2 and 3 would be connected
      together and the lights would never wig-wag.  They would both be on at the
      same time.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465884#465884
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      Yes: I'm using this (page 3), now how do we convert this when I fit LEDs ins
      tead
      
      John
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
           ----x--O--x----
      
      > On 8 Feb 2017, at 01:38 am, Paul Eckenroth  wrote:
      > 
      > Let me try that again.  Need to make the slight extra effort to add the li
      nk.
      > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
      > 
      > Paul
      > 
      >> On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 4:04 PM, Paul Eckenroth  wro
      te:
      >> Joe
      >> 
      >> Here is a link to the Aeroelectric article.  The schematic is page 3, sin
      gle source, single switch.
      >> 
      >> Paul
      >> 
      >>> On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 3:34 PM, user9253  wrote:
      >>> 
      >>> Paul,
      >>> You asked about the bridge rectifier.  Can you post the schematic or a l
      ink to it?
      >>> For Carling schematics, try a Google search for "carling switch pinout".
      
      >>> 
      >>> --------
      >>> Joe Gores
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> Read this topic online here:
      >>> 
      >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465873#465873
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> ========================
      ===========
      >>> -
      >>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics
      .com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      >>> ========================
      ===========
      >>> FORUMS -
      >>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
      >>> ========================
      ===========
      >>> WIKI -
      >>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
      >>> ========================
      ===========
      >>> b Site -
      >>>           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      >>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
      on
      >>> ========================
      ===========
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      
      According to the last page of the pdf (link provided above by Paul), the flasher
      will work with LEDs if a 75 ohm, 5 watt resistor is connected in parallel with
      each LED light.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465891#465891
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Paul Eckenroth <N509RV(at)eckenroth.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Off-On-On Switch
      
      Thanks Joe
      
      All I had to do was to mentally remove the bridge diode and the need
      becomes obvious.  I now believe I have enough information to proceed.
      
      Paul
      
      On Tue, Feb 7, 2017 at 11:01 PM, user9253  wrote:
      
      >
      > OK, I looked at the schematic.  The reason for the bridge diode is to
      > isolate flasher terminals 2 and 3.  Without the diodes, terminals 2 and 3
      > would be connected together and the lights would never wig-wag.  They would
      > both be on at the same time.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465884#465884
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      
      Joe,
      
      THANKS...this is very good information!!!
      
      > But do NOT use a rheostat because it has low resistance and will draw too
      much current.  Use a 5K or 10K POT or whatever Dynon recommends.  
      
      I have one on order...now.  Dynon has a nice looking knob.
      
      >The SkyView fuse can be increased in size from 5 to 7.5 amps, not because
      of the pot, but because a 5 amp fuse can blow under certain conditions.  A
      friend of mine was on a long cross country when his SkyView display went
      dark because the 5 amp fuse blew.  
      
      > If your plane has circuit breakers, not fuses, a 5 amp breaker will
      probably be adequate because circuit breakers are slower to trip than fuses.
      
      Is your friend running two fuses for the power supply for the Dynon SV?  
      
      I read that the system is designed for two power source wires and ground
      wires because the max load that the D-Sub pin can handle is only about 4
      amps so they ran two power wires.  I am running two 5 amp circuit breakers.
      I have not powered up the system...hopefully it will not let any smoke out
      of the wires.
      
      Page 4-9
      Power Input
      SkyView displays have a primary power input that is compatible with 12 volt
      and 24 volt 
      systems (10 to 30 volts DC). There are two unterminated solid red primary
      power input wires
      (to reduce current loading in each wire-these are not for redundancy and
      both must be 
      connected to the same power source) and two unterminated solid black primary
      ground wires.
      
      
      Page 1-7
      Power Consumption
      Table 2 contains SkyView displays and devices that are powered by SkyView
      displays. 5A circuit 
      protection is recommended for SkyView displays in common configurations; 5A
      is the smallest 
      circuit breaker that is commonly available in certified versions.
      ..
      
      Cheers!!!
      
      Bill  Hunter
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253
      Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 12:26 PM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon
      Skyview Brightness a
      
      
      Bill, your reasoning is correct.  But do NOT use a rheostat because it has
      low resistance and will draw too much current.  Use a 5K or 10K POT or
      whatever Dynon recommends.  The pot will only draw a couple of milliamps.
      You could get 12 volts from SV-EMS-220 pin 15 or any convenient place.  Pin
      15 probably has internal over-current protection.  The SkyView fuse can be
      increased in size from 5 to 7.5 amps, not because of the pot, but because a
      5 amp fuse can blow under certain conditions.  A friend of mine was on a
      long cross country when his SkyView display went dark because the 5 amp fuse
      blew.  He replaced the fuse in flight, and the replacement fuse also blew.
      Luckily it was a daytime VFR flight.  The reason the fuse blew was that,
      prior to the flight, he had been running the SkyView from its backup battery
      and ran it down.  While on the cross country flight, the SkyView was drawing
      maximum current to both operate the EFIS and to charge the backup battery.
      He called Dy!
       non because he thought the SkyView was defective.  They recommended that he
      power the SkyView through a 7.5 amp fuse.  He did and no more problems.  If
      your plane has circuit breakers, not fuses, a 5 amp breaker will probably be
      adequate because circuit breakers are slower to trip than fuses.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465872#465872
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba(at)icosa.net>
Subject: 
Why is this diode there ?
Date: 
Feb 09, 2017
      
      Okay the original diagram was from a maintenance manual, here's one from th
      e POH
      
      I think the big diode in the B line is used to limit / protect the alternat
      or line (aka no circuit breaker)  but now what the heck is the power relay 
      circuit at the bottom  ???
      
      And the diode is still in the ground power, Maybe to protect from reverse p
      olarity ??
      [cid:image001.png(at)01D28248.6C6BB560]
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr
      ic-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III
      Sent: Sunday, February 5, 2017 8:36 AM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Why is this diode there ?
      
      At 12:33 PM 2/4/2017, you wrote:
      
      Why is this diode in the Alternator B line ?
      
      Is it old thinking from way back in the day and old tech maybe to protect t
      he older alternators ?
      
      
      What is the source of this drawing?  This diode MAY
      have been offered as an alternative to b-lead protection
      for failure/crash faults on the line to the alternator.
      but it's in error as to how the starter contactor is
      wired.  There's also a curious diode in the ground power
      contactor wiring.
      
      This drawing has the 'smell' of having been copied from
      some more credible source as a 'simplified' wiring diagram
      not unlike those in the Cessna Pilot Handbooks of yesteryear.
      
      A guy named C.E. Fraley used to sit right behind me in Cessna's
      Tech Pubs department. He used to do all of the POH for the Pawnee
      Plant. On several occasions I was asked to vet figures that he
      distilled from the production wiring documents.
      
      [Emacs!]
      
      The simplification process needs to be conducted carefully
      lest errors creep in.  I suspect that the drawing you cite
      may have fallen victim to errors in transcription.
      
      
        Bob . . .
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Dynon Intercom question
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      
      #10 here may be useful
      
      http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p-2160#post952160
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465902#465902
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Dynon Intercom question
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      
      #10 here may be useful
      
      http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p-2160#post952160
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465903#465903
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon Skyview
      Brightness a
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      
      No, my friend's SkyView is powered by only one fuse.
      And you should only use ONE circuit breaker.
      The SkyView manual states, "same power source".  That means one breaker or fuse.
      But connect 2 wires to the one breaker to power the SkyView.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465904#465904
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: fluid level sensor
From: 
Rick Beebe <rick(at)beebe.org>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      
      FWIW, I have the Belite RADIANT dual fuel gauge in my GlaStar and I love 
      it. I'm using it with the capacitance senders that came with the plane 
      and it works great. The gauge is very readable, very light, and was easy 
      to install and configure.
      
      --Rick
      
      On 2/6/2017 7:48 PM, jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com wrote:
      >
      > One other potential approach for your consideration...  Belite
      > Electronics makes lightweight, low-cost instrumentation for ultralight
      > and experimental aircraft. They have developed a line of fuel sensors
      > and gauges that are pretty cool. You can go to
      > http://www.beliteaircraft.com, then go to their "electronics" page to
      > see all the gauges.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Single EPL101x Series Dimmer For Dynon  Skyview
      Brightness a
      
      >The SkyView manual states, "same power source".  That means one breaker or
      fuse.  But connect 2 wires to the one breaker to power the SkyView.
      
      My response.... . "Hmmmmmm"
      
      Perhaps more appropriate... !!! DOH!!!  (Homer Simpson emoticon added for
      dramatic emphasis)
      
      I guess I kinda interpreted the "same power source" to be the same battery
      /alternator....
      
      Hmmmmmm.... Grrrrr....
      
      Bill Hunter
      
      
      On Feb 8, 2017 19:30, "user9253"  wrote:
      
      >
      > No, my friend's SkyView is powered by only one fuse.
      > And you should only use ONE circuit breaker.
      > The SkyView manual states, "same power source".  That means one breaker or
      > fuse.  But connect 2 wires to the one breaker to power the SkyView.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465904#465904
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Dynon Intercom question
From: 
"Airdog77" <Airdog77(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 08, 2017
      
      
      Awesome!  Exactly the type of info I was looking for.
      
      Thanks John!
      
      --------
      Airdog
      Wade Parton
      Building Long-EZ 916WP
      www.longezpush.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465910#465910
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Dynon Intercom question
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 09, 2017
      
      
      Excellent!
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465954#465954
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Subject: 
Flap control suggestions
Date: 
Feb 10, 2017
      
      
      Hi all,
      
      What would be your suggestion for a landing flap control box, module etc. ?
      
      My partners would prefer a system with a three or four positions 
      lever/toggle directly commanding the flap position, like "retracted", 
      "takeoff", "land" etc.
      
      Any ideas about a supplier, any feedback ?
      
      
      Thanks in advance,
      
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Flap control suggestions
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 10, 2017
      
      
      ELECTRONIC FLAP ACTUATOR / INDICATOR
      from Aircraft Spruce
      http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/electronicsflapcontroller.php
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=465974#465974
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 10, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Why is this diode there ?
      
      At 08:20 PM 2/8/2017, you wrote:
      >Okay the original diagram was from a maintenance manual, here's one 
      >from the POH
      >
      >I think the big diode in the B line is used to limit / protect the 
      >alternator line (aka no circuit breaker)  but now what the heck is 
      >the power relay circuit at the bottom  ???
      >
      >And the diode is still in the ground power, Maybe to protect from 
      >reverse polarity ??
      
         Not that one . . . the diode and resistor in series
         around the open battery contactor is indeed part
         of the ground power kit.  It is intended to supply
         a small 'charge path' for a dead battery after
         the bus comes up under ground power.
      
         If the battery is too weak to close the contactor,
         this sneak-path will bring the battery's open
         terminal voltage up enough to close the contactor
         so that the battery can be charged by ground
         power.
      
         The first POH drawing depicted the single-terminal
         ground power connector popular on Piper models
         (and others). The drawing I posted was typical
         of Cessna POH. It depicts the legacy military
         style ground power connector.
      
      Emacs!
      
      
         Note that this drawing also features a 'sneak
         path' diode around the battery contactor. Another
         diode is shown in series with the ground power
         contactor coil.  This is repeated in the
         drawing on my website:
      
      http://tinyurl.com/gtqp6tk
      
         Note that this drawing does not include the sneak-path
         diode. This is because I recommend applying ground
         power directly to the battery allowing it to be
         charged without powering up the whole aircraft.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 10, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Flap control suggestions
      
      At 02:51 AM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >Hi all,
      >
      >What would be your suggestion for a landing flap control box, module etc. ?
      
         How about a spring loaded, (retract)-OFF-(extend) switch?
         The only time flap position indicator were required
         was on aircraft where the airplane might become
         unmanageable if flaps were extended too far for some
         flight condition -AND- the flaps could not be directly
         observed by the pilot.
      
         I can't ever recall using a flaps position indicator
         to drive flaps to a 'precise' position during any
         phase a flight. A few dozen approach/landing
         cycles would pretty well calibrate the stick-feel
         for positioning flaps without bringing your eyes
         inside the cockpit -or- visually confirming the
         flap position.
      
         Some models of Cessna were fitted with flaps that
         could be extended to 40 degrees. There WERE situations
         where the airplane would not sustain level flight
         with fully extended flaps and we were taught to make a
         final approach at 30 and not to go all the way until you were
         committed to land.
      
         A A/D against those airplanes restricted flap travel
         to 30 degrees after too many pilots got into a bind
         with too aggressive application of flaps.
      
         But those are RARE and if your project is at risk for
         such a condition, the kit manufacturer and/or owners
         of said aircraft will certainly know about it.
      
         Aside from those rare designs, the simple toggle switch
         teamed with limit switches and perhaps some robust
         SPDT relays is cheap, simple, and very low risk for
         un-intended motion of flaps. I'm certain that you'll
         discover that a flap position indicator is among the
         least useful displays on the panel.
      
      
      http://tinyurl.com/nhftedq
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 10, 2017
Subject: 
Z12 Question
      
      I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format. The B&C
      install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current sensor. My
      question is, is it reasonable to connect my existing anl with its 80 amp
      fuse and the anl from the stand by source to a single load meter shunt with
      the output side connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Except
      for the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby there
      are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an additional load
      meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would only be
      generating when the main alternator is offline for what ever reason. The
      meter reads out  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The EFIS has a
      connection for a hall effect amp sensor but that would require two firewall
      penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my question,
      but I would appreciate any input.  TIA, Don
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Jeff Point <jpoint(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: 
Z-17/ alternator wire protection
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      Hello,
      
      I am confused about the requirements for protection of the A/C wires 
      from the alternator.  I'm planning to use Z-17 as the basis for my 
      electrical design for my simple, day-VFR aircraft.  Battery will be a 
      Earth-X 680, alternator is a B&C 200G, along with a B&C starter on an O-200.
      
      The drawing that came with the alternator shows a 15A fuse in one of the 
      A/C lines from the alternator to the regulator, as well as a 15A breaker 
      between the crowbar relay and the power bus. However, Z-17 omits the 
      fuse in the A/C wires but does put a fusible link between the crowbar 
      relay and the battery (via the hot post of the starter contactor.)
      
      Other Z- drawings using the SD-8/ 200G also omit the fuse in the A/C 
      wiring.  The only drawing I've found which includes it is the one from B&C.
      
      Is the fuse in the A/C wires required?
      
      Thanks.
      
      Jeff Point
      
      Milwaukee WI
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV 
      >to a Z12 format. The B&C install kit includes an 
      >ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current sensor. My 
      >question is, is it reasonable to connect my 
      >existing anl with its 80 amp fuse and the anl 
      >from the stand by source to a single load meter 
      >shunt with the output side connected to the cold 
      >side of the starter contactor? Except for the 
      >addition of the second ANL and the B leed from 
      >the standby there are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      >My reason for asking is that it will be 
      >difficult to add an additional load meter to my 
      >panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would 
      >only be generating when the main alternator is 
      >offline for what ever reason. The meter reads 
      >out=C2  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The 
      >EFIS has a connection for a hall effect amp 
      >sensor but that would require two firewall 
      >penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      >I am not sure that I have given enough 
      >information to answer my question, but I would appreciate any input.=C2 
       TIA, Don
      
         I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
         Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
         architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      
         A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
         near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
         The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
         than a source of data for airborne operations.
      
         The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
         low voltage are the most powerful tools for
         electrical system monitoring and mitigation
         of failure.
      
         In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
         already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
         the equipment that can be supported in various phases
         of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
         continued flight to airport of intended destination
         with a failed main alternator.
      
         In this condition, you already KNOW what demands you're
         going to place on the standby alternator by having
         developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
         will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
         e-bus at some level above that which discharges
         the battery.
      
         For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
         for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
         'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
         looks cool but has no value as a tool for
         risk-reduction.
      
         If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
         my first choice of architectures whether or not
         loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
      
      At 07:54 AM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >Hello,
      >
      >I am confused about the requirements for protection of the A/C wires 
      >from the alternator.  I'm planning to use Z-17 as the basis for my 
      >electrical design for my simple, day-VFR aircraft.  Battery will be 
      >a Earth-X 680, alternator is a B&C 200G, along with a B&C starter on an O-200.
      >
      >The drawing that came with the alternator shows a 15A fuse in one of 
      >the A/C lines from the alternator to the regulator, as well as a 15A 
      >breaker between the crowbar relay and the power bus. However, Z-17 
      >omits the fuse in the A/C wires but does put a fusible link between 
      >the crowbar relay and the battery (via the hot post of the starter contactor.)
      >
      >Other Z- drawings using the SD-8/ 200G also omit the fuse in the A/C 
      >wiring.  The only drawing I've found which includes it is the one from B&C.
      >
      >Is the fuse in the A/C wires required?
      
         The two-fuse combination of protection considers the fact
         that energy capable of burning wires in the
         PM alternator system comes from TWO directions.
      
         (1) fault in the R/R that places high load on
         alternator and (2) fault - perhaps the same one -
         that loads the battery.
      
         I recommend 15A inline fuses at both locations.
         This fuseholder is one of several options suited
         to the task.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/gmpr8j2
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      No, the AC fuse is not required because the generator is self current limiting.
      The alternator could overheat if the output is shorted or very heavily loaded.
      A fuse might protect against that.  On the other hand, a fuse in the AC output
      is one more thing that could fail and cause the aircraft to lose electrical
      power.
      The output of an alternator does not normally have over-current protection.  However
      the "B" lead is protected by a fuse at the battery end.  That fuse protects
      the battery and the "B" lead from battery current, not from alternator output
      current.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466001#466001
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
      
      At 09:42 AM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >No, the AC fuse is not required because the generator is self 
      >current limiting.
      
          Yeah . . . mostly . . . indeed, an SD-8 turning
          4K RPM max is at little risk for smoke due to
          hard fault. But that's a condition I'll check
          next time I get on the test bench.
      
          The 200G on a Continental is belt driven with
          a pretty high ratio. This is why, with the SAME
          magnetics, it is rated at 12A output. It's almost
          a certainty that this machine would smoke seriously
          if the R/R presents a hard fault.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Bernie Willis <arcticarrow(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
battery charger vs power supply
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      My aircraft maintenance manual recommends using a power supply when swinging the
      electric motor powered landing gear because the battery will loose power over
      time and slow the retraction time hiding problems with the mechanism.  What
      is the difference between a battery charger and a power supply in this application?
      Will leaving a power supply connected without a load damage the battery
      or other electronics?  What happens if the electrical load is greater than the
      output of the power supply?
      
      Would appreciate you thoughts!
      Bernie Willis
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      Oops.  Bob posted his reply while I was still composing mine.  And my reply contradicts
      his.  So now I am confused.  Why doesn't Z-13/8 or Z-17 have a fuse protecting
      the dynamo AC output?
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466005#466005
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      I would like to propose that there may be a good and valid use for
      installing a loadmeter:
      
      If one is using a lithium battery and wants to monitor the amount of
      charging current, so as to be alerted in the event that the battery starts
      asking for an abnormal amount of charging current.
      
      Might this not help to avoid a battery meltdown?
      
      At first I was not planning on using a load meter, but now I am leaning to
      installing one for the above stated reason.
      
      Ken
      
      On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 6:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >
      > I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format. The B&C
      > install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current sensor. My
      > question is, is it reasonable to connect my existing anl with its 80 amp
      > fuse and the anl from the stand by source to a single load meter shunt wi
      th
      > the output side connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Exce
      pt
      > for the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby there
      > are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      > My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an additional
      > load meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would only be
      > generating when the main alternator is offline for what ever reason. The
      > meter reads out=C3=82  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The EFIS has 
      a
      > connection for a hall effect amp sensor but that would require two firewa
      ll
      > penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      > I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my question,
      > but I would appreciate any input.=C3=82  TIA, Don
      >
      >
      >   I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
      >   Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
      >   architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      >
      >   A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
      >   near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
      >   The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
      >   than a source of data for airborne operations.
      >
      >   The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
      >   low voltage are the most powerful tools for
      >   electrical system monitoring and mitigation
      >   of failure.
      >
      >   In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
      >   already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
      >   the equipment that can be supported in various phases
      >   of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
      >
      >
      > *continued flight to airport of intended destination   with a failed main
      > alternator. *  In this condition, you already KNOW what demands you're
      >   going to place on the standby alternator by having
      >   developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
      >   will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
      >   e-bus at some level above that which discharges
      >   the battery.
      >
      >   For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
      >   for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
      >   'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
      >   looks cool but has no value as a tool for
      >   risk-reduction.
      >
      >   If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
      >   my first choice of architectures whether or not
      >   loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Flap control suggestions
From: 
"jonlaury" <jonlaury(at)impulse.net>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      I have limited flight time with this http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus-nt.htm unit, but I'm pleased with it so far. It's programmable so you can find the flap settings that work best for your plane and loading and set them as a pre-selected positions (3). Go to max/no flap by holding the switch down/up  for 1 second. Very intuitive to use and it integrated easily into my AF 4500 panel. The AF panel indicator is pretty small scale but is useful in my scan to just to note when flaps are deployed (like if I forget to raise them). Wired with a back-up overide switch in the event of unit malfunction.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466010#466010
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: battery charger vs power supply
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      The difference is both voltage and current capacity.  The battery definitely has
      a greater current output capacity.  The power supply might have a greater initial
      voltage.  But that voltage could drop if the load is too great.  If the
      power supply voltage drops below battery voltage, then the battery will supply
      the load.  If you elect to test the landing gear using battery only, make sure
      that the battery is fully charged.
       A power supply will not damage a battery or electronics provided that the polarity
      is correct and the voltage is not too high, less than 14.5
      Although a battery could be damaged if a charger with a voltage much greater than
      13 is left connected for an extended period of time, i.e., more than 24 hours.
      Smart chargers are available that automatically reduce the voltage to a maintenance
      level once the battery is fully charged.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466011#466011
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      On 2/11/2017 11:02 AM, user9253 wrote:
      >
      > Oops.  Bob posted his reply while I was still composing mine.  And my reply contradicts
      his.  So now I am confused.  Why doesn't Z-13/8 or Z-17 have a fuse
      protecting the dynamo AC output?
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      Hi Joe,
      
      Any chance you're thinking about a regular field type alternator, and 
      the one being discussed is a dynamo?
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      It's a good thought, but how can it actually monitor *charge* current? 
      The alternator is going to supply what ever current is required to keep 
      the voltage at setpoint. Unless you know exactly how much current is 
      being used by all the other devices in the plane at every instant, you 
      can't tell how much is actually going into the battery. Only way to know 
      actual charge current would be to shut off every other electrical 
      consumer in the plane.
      
      The best way to avoid lithium issues is to be confident that the battery 
      management system built into the battery is doing its job properly. 
      (Tough thing to actually *know*....)
      
      Charlie
      
      On 2/11/2017 11:08 AM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      > I would like to propose that there may be a good and valid use for 
      > installing a loadmeter:
      >
      > If one is using a lithium battery and wants to monitor the amount of 
      > charging current, so as to be alerted in the event that the battery 
      > starts asking for an abnormal amount of charging current.
      >
      > Might this not help to avoid a battery meltdown?
      >
      > At first I was not planning on using a load meter, but now I am 
      > leaning to installing one for the above stated reason.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 6:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III 
      > > 
      > wrote:
      >
      >     At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >>     I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format.
      >>     The B&C install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the
      >>     current sensor. My question is, is it reasonable to connect my
      >>     existing anl with its 80 amp fuse and the anl from the stand by
      >>     source to a single load meter shunt with the output side
      >>     connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Except for
      >>     the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby
      >>     there are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      >>     My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an
      >>     additional load meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand
      >>     buy would only be generating when the main alternator is offline
      >>     for what ever reason. The meter reads out  XX.X amps and is
      >>     built into my EFIS. The EFIS has a connection for a hall effect
      >>     amp sensor but that would require two firewall penetrations from
      >>     the standby alternator B leed.
      >>     I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my
      >>     question, but I would appreciate any input.  TIA, Don
      >
      >       I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
      >       Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
      >       architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      >
      >       A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
      >       near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
      >       The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
      >       than a source of data for airborne operations.
      >
      >       The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
      >       low voltage are the most powerful tools for
      >       electrical system monitoring and mitigation
      >       of failure.
      >
      >       In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
      >       already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
      >       the equipment that can be supported in various phases
      >       of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
      >     */continued flight to airport of intended destination
      >       with a failed main alternator.
      >
      >     /*  In this condition, you already KNOW what demands you're
      >       going to place on the standby alternator by having
      >       developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
      >       will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
      >       e-bus at some level above that which discharges
      >       the battery.
      >
      >       For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
      >       for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
      >       'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
      >       looks cool but has no value as a tool for
      >       risk-reduction.
      >
      >       If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
      >       my first choice of architectures whether or not
      >       loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      >
      >
      >       Bob . . .
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Flap control suggestions
From: 
Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      I've been using TCW's Intellignet Flap Controller 
      <http://www.tcwtech.com/Installation%20instructions%20model%20IFC-10_rev1.1.pdf> 
      and have been happy with it.  I use it with a switch where the up 
      position takes it all the way to reflex and each momentary touch of the 
      downs switch takes it from reflex to zero to first position down to full 
      down.
      
      Regarding flap position; I decided to just look out the window and that 
      has worked well for me.
      
      Bill
      On 2/10/2017 3:51 AM, GTH wrote:
      >
      > Hi all,
      >
      > What would be your suggestion for a landing flap control box, module 
      > etc. ?
      >
      > My partners would prefer a system with a three or four positions 
      > lever/toggle directly commanding the flap position, like "retracted", 
      > "takeoff", "land" etc.
      >
      > Any ideas about a supplier, any feedback ?
      >
      >
      > Thanks in advance,
      >
      
      
      ---
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Flap control suggestions
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      For comparison purposes only, you may wish to consider FAR 23.699:
      
      Sec. 23.699  Wing flap position indicator.
      
      There must be a wing flap position indicator for
      (a) Flap installations with only the retracted and fully extended position, unless
      (1) A direct operating mechanism provides a sense of feel and position (such as
      when a mechanical linkage is employed); or
      (2) The flap position is readily determined without seriously detracting from other
      piloting duties under any flight condition, day or night; and
      
      (b) Flap installation with intermediate flap positions if
      (1) Any flap position other than retracted or fully extended is used to show compliance
      with the performance requirements of this part; and
      (2) The flap installation does not meet the requirements of paragraph (a)(1) of
      this section.
      
      
      Both Cessna and Piper single engine aircraft intermediate flap settings so are
      covered by (b)(1) above, so unless they meet (a)(1) (Piper aircraft and early
      Cessnas with Johnson bar flap operation) they need position indicators.
      
      
      http://www.risingup.com/fars/info/part23-699-FAR.shtml
      
      On 11Feb2017, at 2:24 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III 
      wrote:
      
      At 02:51 AM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      > 
      > Hi all,
      > 
      > What would be your suggestion for a landing flap control box, module etc. ?
      
        How about a spring loaded, (retract)-OFF-(extend) switch?
        The only time flap position indicator were required
        was on aircraft where the airplane might become 
        unmanageable if flaps were extended too far for some
        flight condition -AND- the flaps could not be directly
        observed by the pilot.
      
        I can't ever recall using a flaps position indicator
        to drive flaps to a 'precise' position during any
        phase a flight. A few dozen approach/landing
        cycles would pretty well calibrate the stick-feel
        for positioning flaps without bringing your eyes
        inside the cockpit -or- visually confirming the
        flap position.
      
        Some models of Cessna were fitted with flaps that
        could be extended to 40 degrees. There WERE situations
        where the airplane would not sustain level flight
        with fully extended flaps and we were taught to make a
        final approach at 30 and not to go all the way until you were
        committed to land.
      
        A A/D against those airplanes restricted flap travel
        to 30 degrees after too many pilots got into a bind
        with too aggressive application of flaps.
      
        But those are RARE and if your project is at risk for
        such a condition, the kit manufacturer and/or owners
        of said aircraft will certainly know about it.
      
        Aside from those rare designs, the simple toggle switch
        teamed with limit switches and perhaps some robust
        SPDT relays is cheap, simple, and very low risk for
        un-intended motion of flaps. I'm certain that you'll
        discover that a flap position indicator is among the
        least useful displays on the panel.
      
      
      http://tinyurl.com/nhftedq 
      
      
        Bob . . .
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      The attached picture from a Dynon installation manual shows three common locations
      where an ammeter shunt can be installed.
      Location "A" is used to show battery charge and discharge current.
      Location "B" is used to show alternator output current (load-meter).
      Location "C" is used to show how much current the aircraft is using.
      The shunt location is a matter of personal preference and has been the subject
      of arguments.  The important thing is for the pilot to understand the meaning
      of the ammeter display.  For instance, a pilot could misinterpret positive current
      from a shunt in location "C" as normal, ignoring the low voltage and oblivious
      to the fact that the alternator has stopped working.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466026#466026
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/ammeter_shunt_171.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      Charlie, I guess I was thinking that if there was a catastrophic failure
      that is going to eventually lead to battery meltdown, it would likely
      manifest in pegging the alternator to maximum output. In my case that is
      supposed to be 40 amps, while my maximum normal usage would be closer to 20
      amps so I was thinking if I set an alarm for, say 25 amps, it might alert
      me to impending disaster.
      
      On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 10:32 AM, Charlie England 
      wrote:
      
      > It's a good thought, but how can it actually monitor *charge* current? Th
      e
      > alternator is going to supply what ever current is required to keep the
      > voltage at setpoint. Unless you know exactly how much current is being us
      ed
      > by all the other devices in the plane at every instant, you can't tell ho
      w
      > much is actually going into the battery. Only way to know actual charge
      > current would be to shut off every other electrical consumer in the plane
      .
      >
      > The best way to avoid lithium issues is to be confident that the battery
      > management system built into the battery is doing its job properly. (Toug
      h
      > thing to actually *know*....)
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      >
      > On 2/11/2017 11:08 AM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      >
      > I would like to propose that there may be a good and valid use for
      > installing a loadmeter:
      >
      > If one is using a lithium battery and wants to monitor the amount of
      > charging current, so as to be alerted in the event that the battery start
      s
      > asking for an abnormal amount of charging current.
      >
      > Might this not help to avoid a battery meltdown?
      >
      > At first I was not planning on using a load meter, but now I am leaning t
      o
      > installing one for the above stated reason.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 6:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >
      >> At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >>
      >> I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format. The B&
      C
      >> install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current sensor. My
      >> question is, is it reasonable to connect my existing anl with its 80 amp
      >> fuse and the anl from the stand by source to a single load meter shunt w
      ith
      >> the output side connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Exc
      ept
      >> for the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby there
      >> are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      >> My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an additional
      >> load meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would only be
      >> generating when the main alternator is offline for what ever reason. The
      >> meter reads out=C3=82  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The EFIS has
       a
      >> connection for a hall effect amp sensor but that would require two firew
      all
      >> penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      >> I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my question
      ,
      >> but I would appreciate any input.=C3=82  TIA, Don
      >>
      >>
      >>   I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
      >>   Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
      >>   architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      >>
      >>   A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
      >>   near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
      >>   The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
      >>   than a source of data for airborne operations.
      >>
      >>   The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
      >>   low voltage are the most powerful tools for
      >>   electrical system monitoring and mitigation
      >>   of failure.
      >>
      >>   In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
      >>   already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
      >>   the equipment that can be supported in various phases
      >>   of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> *continued flight to airport of intended destination   with a failed mai
      n
      >> alternator. *  In this condition, you already KNOW what demands you're
      >>   going to place on the standby alternator by having
      >>   developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
      >>   will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
      >>   e-bus at some level above that which discharges
      >>   the battery.
      >>
      >>   For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
      >>   for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
      >>   'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
      >>   looks cool but has no value as a tool for
      >>   risk-reduction.
      >>
      >>   If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
      >>   my first choice of architectures whether or not
      >>   loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      Bob, thanks for your input. My "load" during daylight ops after the battery
      is recharged  from the start is roughly 13 to 15A. The load meter  question
      should have stated that it was just for "setup and test" to determine what
      items can be operated while the 20A alternator is the power source.
      What I need to know is, is it electrically safe to connect the two ANL
      blocks to the input side of the shunt and the output side of the shunt to
      the cold side of the starter contactor? At no time would there be output
      from from both alternators simultaneosly.
      Part of my decission to drop the E bus and go with the 20 A standby was
      your recent responce to an individual asking about using the 20A standby.
      You said something like "I would abandon the e bus and go with the Z12
      setup".
      
      
      On Feb 11, 2017 12:02, "Charlie England"  wrote:
      
      > It's a good thought, but how can it actually monitor *charge* current? Th
      e
      > alternator is going to supply what ever current is required to keep the
      > voltage at setpoint. Unless you know exactly how much current is being us
      ed
      > by all the other devices in the plane at every instant, you can't tell ho
      w
      > much is actually going into the battery. Only way to know actual charge
      > current would be to shut off every other electrical consumer in the plane
      .
      >
      > The best way to avoid lithium issues is to be confident that the battery
      > management system built into the battery is doing its job properly. (Toug
      h
      > thing to actually *know*....)
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      > On 2/11/2017 11:08 AM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      >
      > I would like to propose that there may be a good and valid use for
      > installing a loadmeter:
      >
      > If one is using a lithium battery and wants to monitor the amount of
      > charging current, so as to be alerted in the event that the battery start
      s
      > asking for an abnormal amount of charging current.
      >
      > Might this not help to avoid a battery meltdown?
      >
      > At first I was not planning on using a load meter, but now I am leaning t
      o
      > installing one for the above stated reason.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 6:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >
      >> At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >>
      >> I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format. The B&
      C
      >> install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current sensor. My
      >> question is, is it reasonable to connect my existing anl with its 80 amp
      >> fuse and the anl from the stand by source to a single load meter shunt w
      ith
      >> the output side connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Exc
      ept
      >> for the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby there
      >> are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      >> My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an additional
      >> load meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would only be
      >> generating when the main alternator is offline for what ever reason. The
      >> meter reads out=C3=82  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The EFIS has
       a
      >> connection for a hall effect amp sensor but that would require two firew
      all
      >> penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      >> I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my question
      ,
      >> but I would appreciate any input.=C3=82  TIA, Don
      >>
      >>
      >>   I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
      >>   Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
      >>   architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      >>
      >>   A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
      >>   near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
      >>   The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
      >>   than a source of data for airborne operations.
      >>
      >>   The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
      >>   low voltage are the most powerful tools for
      >>   electrical system monitoring and mitigation
      >>   of failure.
      >>
      >>   In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
      >>   already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
      >>   the equipment that can be supported in various phases
      >>   of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> *continued flight to airport of intended destination   with a failed mai
      n
      >> alternator. *  In this condition, you already KNOW what demands you're
      >>   going to place on the standby alternator by having
      >>   developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
      >>   will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
      >>   e-bus at some level above that which discharges
      >>   the battery.
      >>
      >>   For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
      >>   for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
      >>   'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
      >>   looks cool but has no value as a tool for
      >>   risk-reduction.
      >>
      >>   If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
      >>   my first choice of architectures whether or not
      >>   loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      Bob, thanks for your input. My "load" during daylight ops after the battery
      is recharged  from the start is roughly 13 to 15 A. I have had two SD8
      failures and one E bus relay failure in 6 years of flight. I have trust
      issues with the SD8 and have decided that I prefer the 20 A standby. I
      recognize that I have probably used up a life time of SD8 failures but I am
      still going with the 20A setup. The load meter  question should have stated
      that it was just for "setup and test"
      
      On Feb 11, 2017 12:02, "Charlie England"  wrote:
      
      > It's a good thought, but how can it actually monitor *charge* current? Th
      e
      > alternator is going to supply what ever current is required to keep the
      > voltage at setpoint. Unless you know exactly how much current is being us
      ed
      > by all the other devices in the plane at every instant, you can't tell ho
      w
      > much is actually going into the battery. Only way to know actual charge
      > current would be to shut off every other electrical consumer in the plane
      .
      >
      > The best way to avoid lithium issues is to be confident that the battery
      > management system built into the battery is doing its job properly. (Toug
      h
      > thing to actually *know*....)
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      > On 2/11/2017 11:08 AM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      >
      > I would like to propose that there may be a good and valid use for
      > installing a loadmeter:
      >
      > If one is using a lithium battery and wants to monitor the amount of
      > charging current, so as to be alerted in the event that the battery start
      s
      > asking for an abnormal amount of charging current.
      >
      > Might this not help to avoid a battery meltdown?
      >
      > At first I was not planning on using a load meter, but now I am leaning t
      o
      > installing one for the above stated reason.
      >
      > Ken
      >
      > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 6:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >
      >> At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >>
      >> I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format. The B&
      C
      >> install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current sensor. My
      >> question is, is it reasonable to connect my existing anl with its 80 amp
      >> fuse and the anl from the stand by source to a single load meter shunt w
      ith
      >> the output side connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Exc
      ept
      >> for the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby there
      >> are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      >> My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an additional
      >> load meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would only be
      >> generating when the main alternator is offline for what ever reason. The
      >> meter reads out=C3=82  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The EFIS has
       a
      >> connection for a hall effect amp sensor but that would require two firew
      all
      >> penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      >> I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my question
      ,
      >> but I would appreciate any input.=C3=82  TIA, Don
      >>
      >>
      >>   I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
      >>   Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
      >>   architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      >>
      >>   A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
      >>   near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
      >>   The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
      >>   than a source of data for airborne operations.
      >>
      >>   The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
      >>   low voltage are the most powerful tools for
      >>   electrical system monitoring and mitigation
      >>   of failure.
      >>
      >>   In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
      >>   already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
      >>   the equipment that can be supported in various phases
      >>   of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> *continued flight to airport of intended destination   with a failed mai
      n
      >> alternator. *  In this condition, you already KNOW what demands you're
      >>   going to place on the standby alternator by having
      >>   developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
      >>   will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
      >>   e-bus at some level above that which discharges
      >>   the battery.
      >>
      >>   For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
      >>   for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
      >>   'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
      >>   looks cool but has no value as a tool for
      >>   risk-reduction.
      >>
      >>   If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
      >>   my first choice of architectures whether or not
      >>   loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      Ah, yes; I see where you're going with it. You'd still need to set the
      alarm point fairly high to avoid false positives in situations like after a
      hard start with a partially charged battery, where the alt would try to max
      out its output to recover the battery faster. Of course, if the BMS is
      doing its job, that won't happen, I suppose.
      
      On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 4:12 PM, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      > Charlie, I guess I was thinking that if there was a catastrophic failure
      > that is going to eventually lead to battery meltdown, it would likely
      > manifest in pegging the alternator to maximum output. In my case that is
      > supposed to be 40 amps, while my maximum normal usage would be closer to 
      20
      > amps so I was thinking if I set an alarm for, say 25 amps, it might alert
      > me to impending disaster.
      >
      > On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 10:32 AM, Charlie England 
      > wrote:
      >
      >> It's a good thought, but how can it actually monitor *charge* current?
      >> The alternator is going to supply what ever current is required to keep 
      the
      >> voltage at setpoint. Unless you know exactly how much current is being u
      sed
      >> by all the other devices in the plane at every instant, you can't tell h
      ow
      >> much is actually going into the battery. Only way to know actual charge
      >> current would be to shut off every other electrical consumer in the plan
      e.
      >>
      >> The best way to avoid lithium issues is to be confident that the battery
      >> management system built into the battery is doing its job properly. (Tou
      gh
      >> thing to actually *know*....)
      >>
      >> Charlie
      >>
      >>
      >> On 2/11/2017 11:08 AM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      >>
      >> I would like to propose that there may be a good and valid use for
      >> installing a loadmeter:
      >>
      >> If one is using a lithium battery and wants to monitor the amount of
      >> charging current, so as to be alerted in the event that the battery star
      ts
      >> asking for an abnormal amount of charging current.
      >>
      >> Might this not help to avoid a battery meltdown?
      >>
      >> At first I was not planning on using a load meter, but now I am leaning
      >> to installing one for the above stated reason.
      >>
      >> Ken
      >>
      >> On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 6:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      >> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >>
      >>> At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >>>
      >>> I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format. The
      >>> B&C install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current senso
      r.
      >>> My question is, is it reasonable to connect my existing anl with its 80
       amp
      >>> fuse and the anl from the stand by source to a single load meter shunt 
      with
      >>> the output side connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Ex
      cept
      >>> for the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby ther
      e
      >>> are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      >>> My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an additional
      >>> load meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would only be
      >>> generating when the main alternator is offline for what ever reason. Th
      e
      >>> meter reads out=C3=82  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The EFIS ha
      s a
      >>> connection for a hall effect amp sensor but that would require two fire
      wall
      >>> penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      >>> I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my
      >>> question, but I would appreciate any input.=C3=82  TIA, Don
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>   I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
      >>>   Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
      >>>   architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      >>>
      >>>   A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
      >>>   near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
      >>>   The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
      >>>   than a source of data for airborne operations.
      >>>
      >>>   The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
      >>>   low voltage are the most powerful tools for
      >>>   electrical system monitoring and mitigation
      >>>   of failure.
      >>>
      >>>   In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
      >>>   already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
      >>>   the equipment that can be supported in various phases
      >>>   of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> *continued flight to airport of intended destination   with a failed
      >>> main alternator. *  In this condition, you already KNOW what demands
      >>> you're
      >>>   going to place on the standby alternator by having
      >>>   developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
      >>>   will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
      >>>   e-bus at some level above that which discharges
      >>>   the battery.
      >>>
      >>>   For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
      >>>   for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
      >>>   'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
      >>>   looks cool but has no value as a tool for
      >>>   risk-reduction.
      >>>
      >>>   If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
      >>>   my first choice of architectures whether or not
      >>>   loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>   Bob . . .
      >>>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      I just noticed that I mislabeled the starter contactor connection.  It
      would be the hot side. The Z14 diagram would only have the loadmeter shunt
      for the standby alternater removed, the fusible link replaced by an ANL and
      the shunt placed between the two ANL outputs and the hot side of the
      starter contacter. This is very close to the original diagram with only one
      load meter shunt.
      Is this acceptable?
      
      On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 10:03 PM 2/10/2017, you wrote:
      >
      > I am considering converting my Z18-8 equipped RV to a Z12 format. The B&C
      > install kit includes an ANL mount and "fuse" plus the current sensor. My
      > question is, is it reasonable to connect my existing anl with its 80 amp
      > fuse and the anl from the stand by source to a single load meter shunt wi
      th
      > the output side connected to the cold side of the starter contactor? Exce
      pt
      > for the addition of the second ANL and the B leed from the standby there
      > are no other changes to this part of my proposed system.
      > My reason for asking is that it will be difficult to add an additional
      > load meter to my panel. I am thinking that the stand buy would only be
      > generating when the main alternator is offline for what ever reason. The
      > meter reads out=C3=82  XX.X amps and is built into my EFIS. The EFIS has 
      a
      > connection for a hall effect amp sensor but that would require two firewa
      ll
      > penetrations from the standby alternator B leed.
      > I am not sure that I have given enough information to answer my question,
      > but I would appreciate any input.=C3=82  TIA, Don
      >
      >
      >   I don't thing you want to do this. Morphing from
      >   Z-13/8 to Z-12 negates the multi-layered system
      >   architecture that makes Z-13 so robust.
      >
      >   A loadmeter, like a flaps position indicator is
      >   near the bottom of the heap for in-flight utility.
      >   The loadmeter is more of a trouble-shooting tool
      >   than a source of data for airborne operations.
      >
      >   The VOLTMETER teamed with active notification of
      >   low voltage are the most powerful tools for
      >   electrical system monitoring and mitigation
      >   of failure.
      >
      >   In flight, a loadmeter only displays things you
      >   already KNOW.  You do a load analysis to establish
      >   the equipment that can be supported in various phases
      >   of flight. With z-13/8, one of those phases is
      >
      >
      > *continued flight to airport of intended destination   with a failed main
      > alternator. *  In this condition, you already KNOW what demands you're
      >   going to place on the standby alternator by having
      >   developed the list of "Plan-X" equipment. Your voltmeter
      >   will confirm that the alternator is maintaining the
      >   e-bus at some level above that which discharges
      >   the battery.
      >
      >   For the majority of my deliberations in crafting wire books
      >   for OBAM aviation projects, the loadmeter was the
      >   'fox tail flying from the tip of your antenna' . . .
      >   looks cool but has no value as a tool for
      >   risk-reduction.
      >
      >   If I were building an airplane, Z-13/8 would be
      >   my first choice of architectures whether or not
      >   loadmeter(s) were on the list of installed accessories.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Dean Psiropoulos" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Icom junction box
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      Someone was asking on this forum about issues with the Icom antenna junction
      box installed in their plane.  I  put in one of those in between my SL-30
      Nav/Com and my belly antenna on the RV-6A. I've had a lot of scratchy and
      not so great transmissions/reception on that Radio.  I didn't think that
      maybe if would be that junction box.  I like the idea because it makes it
      easy to plug in my hand held and use my outside antenna. But I've never had
      to do that so if the junction box is causing crappy tx/Rx on that radio I'll
      take it out of the loop. I know the SL-30 is a great radio so this has
      puzzled me since I finished the RV.  Did whomever it was figure out whether
      the Icom junction box was causing radio Tx/Rx problems or not?  Does the
      junction box need to be removed from the loop or is there some I can do to
      fix it?  
      
      
      Thanks
      
      Dean Psiropoulos
      RV-6A N197DM
      Tarpon Sprgs, FL
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
From: 
John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      Ken,
      
      If I start the engine with the alternator off and if I forget to turn it 
      on for a while, then my EarthX900 will draw almost 65 amps from a 60 amp 
      Plane Power for a short period of time. I believe this behavior is 
      normal and the battery management system doesn't complain. The 
      temperature strips that I attached directly to the battery show less 
      than 160 degrees f and I fly summers in AZ.
      
      My standard load is either 8 or 15 amps.
      
      john
      
      On 2/11/2017 3:12 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
      > Charlie, I guess I was thinking that if there was a catastrophic 
      > failure that is going to eventually lead to battery meltdown, it would 
      > likely manifest in pegging the alternator to maximum output. In my 
      > case that is supposed to be 40 amps, while my maximum normal usage 
      > would be closer to 20 amps so I was thinking if I set an alarm for, 
      > say 25 amps, it might alert me to impending disaster.
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
      
      
      Don, is this something like what you have in mind?  I think it is feasible.
      The ANL 60 could be moved to the other side of the shunt.  Then the shunt would
      not have short circuit protection.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466040#466040
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/2_alt__1_shunt_994.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 11, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      Joe,
      That is exactly what I was intending. The Alternators are Main= 60A
      standby A. The current setup has an 80A ANL in the main "b" leed before
      the shunt. I was thinking of using a 30A ANL in the b leed of the standby.
      Both ANL's would then connect to the shunt input and the shunt output wound
      connect to the starter contactor.
      
      On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:06 PM, user9253  wrote:
      
      >
      > Don, is this something like what you have in mind?  I think it is feasible.
      > The ANL 60 could be moved to the other side of the shunt.  Then the shunt
      > would not have short circuit protection.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466040#466040
      >
      >
      > Attachments:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com//files/2_alt__1_shunt_994.jpg
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
From: 
Jeff Point <jpoint(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      On 2/11/17 10:51 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      
      >
      >
      > The 200G on a Continental is belt driven with
      >    a pretty high ratio. This is why, with the SAME
      >    magnetics, it is rated at 12A output. It's almost
      >    a certainty that this machine would smoke seriously
      >    if the R/R presents a hard fault.
      On my O-200 it is mounted on the vacuum pad and is gear driven from the 
      cam gear.  Nevertheless I will take your advice and put a 15A fuse in 
      both locations.  Final question- the drawing from B&C only shows the 
      fuse on one of the two A/C wires from the dynamo to the regulator.  
      Since there is no polarity to these wires, I assume this is because it 
      is AC voltage?
      
      Jeff
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      Looking at Z-12, both alternator outputs are connected together through very low
      resistance shunts and short circuit protection devices.  Your plan does not
      change that.  The only disadvantage I see in your plan is that the shunt will
      not have short circuit protection.  And the disadvantage of my circuit posted
      above is that if the large ANL current limiter blows, then both alternators are
      lost.  Separate shunts as in Z-13/8 eliminates those disadvantages.
        You might consider using a 30 amp Maxi fuse instead of an ANL to save money and
      weight.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466047#466047
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Stash of PIDG splices unearthed . . .
      
      In the process of down-sizing my inventory
      I uncovered a stash of red, 16-22AWG, PIDG
      splices . . .
      
      
      Emacs!
      
      
      In lots of 25, these venerable products from
      AMP are going for $1.60 each . . . or thereabouts.
      
      http://tinyurl.com/jz8vjny
      
      I'll offer these to members of the List in lots of 25
      for $12 postage paid. Email me privately please.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
      
      At 08:17 AM 2/12/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >On 2/11/17 10:51 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      >
      >>
      >>
      >>The 200G on a Continental is belt driven with
      >>    a pretty high ratio. This is why, with the SAME
      >>    magnetics, it is rated at 12A output. It's almost
      >>    a certainty that this machine would smoke seriously
      >>    if the R/R presents a hard fault.
      >On my O-200 it is mounted on the vacuum pad and is gear driven from 
      >the cam gear.  Nevertheless I will take your advice and put a 15A 
      >fuse in both locations.  Final question- the drawing from B&C only 
      >shows the fuse on one of the two A/C wires from the dynamo to the regulator.
      >Since there is no polarity to these wires, I assume this is because 
      >it is AC voltage?
      
         No, it's because the alternator output is
         a loop that goes to zero current when
         opened anywhere in that loop . . . one
         fuse suffices for both leads.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
      
      At 09:58 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      
      >Hi Bob,
      >
      >Just wondering where I should begin looking for more information on 
      >transponders.  Is there a source of information I could access that 
      >would answer questions, such as what are the minimum requirements 
      >for transponders?  What are the equipment standards for 
      >transponders?  What should I look for in a new transponders? Are 
      >there changes coming in the standardization?  What is this ADB(?) 
      >all about? I will appreciate your comments and suggestions.  If 
      >there are other questions I should be asking, please address them as 
      >well. Thank for considering my inquiry.
      
         I've not kept current with the requirements
         or all the features/options in the transponder
         world. I've posted this question to the
         AeroElectric-List. There are folks on tha
         service with a great deal more knowledge on
         this topic.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Icom junction box
      
      At 05:09 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >Someone was asking on this forum about issues with the Icom antenna junction
      >box installed in their plane.  I  put in one of those in between my SL-30
      >Nav/Com and my belly antenna on the RV-6A. I've had a lot of scratchy and
      >not so great transmissions/reception on that Radio.  I didn't think that
      >maybe if would be that junction box.  I like the idea because it makes it
      >easy to plug in my hand held and use my outside antenna. But I've never had
      >to do that so if the junction box is causing crappy tx/Rx on that radio I'll
      >take it out of the loop. I know the SL-30 is a great radio so this has
      >puzzled me since I finished the RV.  Did whomever it was figure out whether
      >the Icom junction box was causing radio Tx/Rx problems or not?  Does the
      >junction box need to be removed from the loop or is there some I can do to
      >fix it?
      
         It's a simple experiment to take it out and see
         if the complaints go away. I'm not encouraged about
         'fixing' a poorly performing example of this
         product. Best advise is to take it out and add
         pilot accessible junctions and coax jumpers
         to get your hand-held connected to ship's antenna.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Icom junction box
      
      Bob, regarding the coax junctions, what are the specs to look for?
      
      On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 10:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 05:09 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >
      > dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
      >
      > Someone was asking on this forum about issues with the Icom antenna
      > junction
      > box installed in their plane.  I  put in one of those in between my SL-30
      > Nav/Com and my belly antenna on the RV-6A. I've had a lot of scratchy and
      > not so great transmissions/reception on that Radio.  I didn't think that
      > maybe if would be that junction box.  I like the idea because it makes it
      > easy to plug in my hand held and use my outside antenna. But I've never had
      > to do that so if the junction box is causing crappy tx/Rx on that radio
      > I'll
      > take it out of the loop. I know the SL-30 is a great radio so this has
      > puzzled me since I finished the RV.  Did whomever it was figure out whether
      > the Icom junction box was causing radio Tx/Rx problems or not?  Does the
      > junction box need to be removed from the loop or is there some I can do to
      > fix it?
      >
      >
      >   It's a simple experiment to take it out and see
      >   if the complaints go away. I'm not encouraged about
      >   'fixing' a poorly performing example of this
      >   product. Best advise is to take it out and add
      >   pilot accessible junctions and coax jumpers
      >   to get your hand-held connected to ship's antenna.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Icom junction box
      
      I've never met your radio, but I'd put a small amount of money on a wager th
      at your problem lies in a badly terminated cable - a badly crimped, loose or
       corroded BNC connector, somewhere.
      
      99% of failures are either the fuse or the connector :-)
      
      On Feb 12, 2017, at 15:05, Ken Ryan  wrote:
      
      Bob, regarding the coax junctions, what are the specs to look for?
      
      > On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 10:02 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@ae
      roelectric.com> wrote:
      > At 05:09 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      ulos(at)verizon.net>
      >> 
      >> Someone was asking on this forum about issues with the Icom antenna junct
      ion
      >> box installed in their plane.  I  put in one of those in between my SL-30
      
      >> Nav/Com and my belly antenna on the RV-6A. I've had a lot of scratchy and
      
      >> not so great transmissions/reception on that Radio.  I didn't think that
      >> maybe if would be that junction box.  I like the idea because it makes it
      
      >> easy to plug in my hand held and use my outside antenna. But I've never h
      ad
      >> to do that so if the junction box is causing crappy tx/Rx on that radio I
      'll
      >> take it out of the loop. I know the SL-30 is a great radio so this has
      >> puzzled me since I finished the RV.  Did whomever it was figure out wheth
      er
      >> the Icom junction box was causing radio Tx/Rx problems or not?  Does the
      >> junction box need to be removed from the loop or is there some I can do t
      o
      >> fix it? 
      > 
      >   It's a simple experiment to take it out and see
      >   if the complaints go away. I'm not encouraged about
      >   'fixing' a poorly performing example of this
      >   product. Best advise is to take it out and add
      >   pilot accessible junctions and coax jumpers
      >   to get your hand-held connected to ship's antenna. 
      > 
      > 
      >   Bob . . .
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About  Transponders
From: 
Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      There is no change in the airspace requiring a transponder. However, 
      there is a new requirement for ADS-B equipment. There are two ways to 
      comply. You can either get a Mode S transponder that has software to 
      give the data output needed, or you can get a UAT unit that is tied to 
      your Mode C transponder. Either variety has to have  either an internal 
      GPS that meets requirements, or be connected to a certified WAAS IFR 
      GPS. There are a number of sources for the information, including 
      manufacturers. However, a lot will confuse the issue.
      The requirements are only to transmit the required data stream.
      
      There are no reception requirements, but that is another entire ball of 
      wax, as to what traffic and weather you do or don't receive, and how you 
      display it in the cockpit. Very useful, but not required.
      Kelly
      
      On 2/12/2017 11:59 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      > At 09:58 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >> Hi Bob,
      >>
      >> Just wondering where I should begin looking for more information on
      >> transponders.  Is there a source of information I could access that
      >> would answer questions, such as what are the minimum requirements for
      >> transponders?  What are the equipment standards for transponders?
      >> What should I look for in a new transponders? Are there changes coming
      >> in the standardization?  What is this ADB(?) all about? I will
      >> appreciate your comments and suggestions.  If there are other
      >> questions I should be asking, please address them as well. Thank for
      >> considering my inquiry.
      >
      >   I've not kept current with the requirements
      >   or all the features/options in the transponder
      >   world. I've posted this question to the
      >   AeroElectric-List. There are folks on tha
      >   service with a great deal more knowledge on
      >   this topic.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      ADS-B will let you see other aircraft on a glass panel in your airplane.  And other
      pilots will be able to see you.  It is like having a radar screen in your
      cockpit.
      ADS-B-OUT will be required in many areas in 2020.  If buying a new transponder,
      you might as well make sure it has ADS-B.  If you do not fly near big cities
      where ADS-B will be required, then you could buy a used transponder without ADS-B
      for well less than $1000.  Lots of used transponders are available as more
      and more aircraft are upgrading to ADS-B-OUT to meet the 2020 mandate.
        When shopping for a transponder with ADS-B, I recommend that you buy one that
      contains an internal 2020 compliant GPS receiver instead of two separate units.
      Here are some models to consider:
      APPAREO	STRATUS ESG
      GARMIN	GTX335
      GARMIN	GTX345
      L-3 Avionics LYNX NGT-9000
      Prices vary from $3000 to $9000
      There are a lot more options and equipment to consider.  Research before buying.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466067#466067
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
      
      One additional comment. The external waas certified gps must also be on the
      approved list for the mode S transponder that it is feeding location
      information. At this point the Garmin 430w/530w are not on any approved
      list. This may change with software updates. Garmin did noy mention the 480
      so it is currently an unknown.
      
      On Feb 12, 2017 12:36 PM, "Kelly McMullen"  wrote:
      
      > kellym(at)aviating.com>
      >
      > There is no change in the airspace requiring a transponder. However, there
      > is a new requirement for ADS-B equipment. There are two ways to comply. You
      > can either get a Mode S transponder that has software to give the data
      > output needed, or you can get a UAT unit that is tied to your Mode C
      > transponder. Either variety has to have  either an internal GPS that meets
      > requirements, or be connected to a certified WAAS IFR GPS. There are a
      > number of sources for the information, including manufacturers. However, a
      > lot will confuse the issue.
      > The requirements are only to transmit the required data stream.
      >
      > There are no reception requirements, but that is another entire ball of
      > wax, as to what traffic and weather you do or don't receive, and how you
      > display it in the cockpit. Very useful, but not required.
      > Kelly
      >
      > On 2/12/2017 11:59 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      >
      >> At 09:58 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >>
      >> Hi Bob,
      >>>
      >>> Just wondering where I should begin looking for more information on
      >>> transponders.  Is there a source of information I could access that
      >>> would answer questions, such as what are the minimum requirements for
      >>> transponders?  What are the equipment standards for transponders?
      >>> What should I look for in a new transponders? Are there changes coming
      >>> in the standardization?  What is this ADB(?) all about? I will
      >>> appreciate your comments and suggestions.  If there are other
      >>> questions I should be asking, please address them as well. Thank for
      >>> considering my inquiry.
      >>>
      >>
      >>   I've not kept current with the requirements
      >>   or all the features/options in the transponder
      >>   world. I've posted this question to the
      >>   AeroElectric-List. There are folks on tha
      >>   service with a great deal more knowledge on
      >>   this topic.
      >>
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
      
      To be clear, there *will be* a new requirement. In 2020, but not at the
      moment. The FAA certainly held to its traditional Pro Grade Obfuscation in
      writing the upcoming regs, but basically you'll need ADSB out, with a
      Certifiable WAAS position source. *And* you'll need to keep a traditional
      transponder with encoder, unless you go with a Mode S with Extended
      Squitter (remember offuscation?).
      
      Opinions vary widely on whether ADSB prices will continue to fall, or start
      to rise, as 2020 approaches.
      
      Charlie
      
      On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 2:27 PM, Kelly McMullen  wrote:
      
      > kellym(at)aviating.com>
      >
      > There is no change in the airspace requiring a transponder. However, there
      > is a new requirement for ADS-B equipment. There are two ways to comply. You
      > can either get a Mode S transponder that has software to give the data
      > output needed, or you can get a UAT unit that is tied to your Mode C
      > transponder. Either variety has to have  either an internal GPS that meets
      > requirements, or be connected to a certified WAAS IFR GPS. There are a
      > number of sources for the information, including manufacturers. However, a
      > lot will confuse the issue.
      > The requirements are only to transmit the required data stream.
      >
      > There are no reception requirements, but that is another entire ball of
      > wax, as to what traffic and weather you do or don't receive, and how you
      > display it in the cockpit. Very useful, but not required.
      > Kelly
      >
      > On 2/12/2017 11:59 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      >
      >> At 09:58 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >>
      >> Hi Bob,
      >>>
      >>> Just wondering where I should begin looking for more information on
      >>> transponders.  Is there a source of information I could access that
      >>> would answer questions, such as what are the minimum requirements for
      >>> transponders?  What are the equipment standards for transponders?
      >>> What should I look for in a new transponders? Are there changes coming
      >>> in the standardization?  What is this ADB(?) all about? I will
      >>> appreciate your comments and suggestions.  If there are other
      >>> questions I should be asking, please address them as well. Thank for
      >>> considering my inquiry.
      >>>
      >>
      >>   I've not kept current with the requirements
      >>   or all the features/options in the transponder
      >>   world. I've posted this question to the
      >>   AeroElectric-List. There are folks on tha
      >>   service with a great deal more knowledge on
      >>   this topic.
      >>
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      Dion said:
      << At this point the Garmin 430w/530w are not on any approved list. This
      may change with software updates. >>
      
      I don't believe that statement is true, as both of these WAAS-equipped
      devices ARE approved GPS sources for any of the Garmin ADS-B Out
      transponders. I had a GTX-330 upgraded to 330ES (around $1200) by
      Garmin, then connected to my 430W (cost about $600 for the shop to
      rewire to add the GPS connector to the 330ES). This was fully approved,
      and passed all the FAA's ADS-B Out testing. And a friend who had a 530W
      and 330 did the same with his plane, and likewise passed the FAA
      testing. I also know of several people who have upgraded to Garmin 335
      and 345 transponders and used their 430W/530W as the GPS-WAAS source for
      their ADS-B installations.
      
      One possible source of confusion might be that the older non-WAAS
      4XX/5XX models are NOT approved because they lack the WAAS GPS
      capability.  A non-WAAS 430 (or 530) would need to be upgraded to 430W
      (or 530W) to add the WAAS capability.  This can only be done by Garmin,
      and I think they charge something like $3,000 (IIRC) to upgrade the
      units.
      
      But the bigger issue for Garmin 430W/530W owners is working with
      non-Garmin ADS-B transponders...  I believe the issue is that (at least
      at one time) the Trig ADS-B transponder (which is re-sold by Avidyne and
      several others under their own company name) was NOT certified with the
      430W/530W. Obviously, Garmin had no interest in pursuing certification
      with someone else's equipment, and although I think Trig eventually
      certified their own proprietary brand unit with the 430W/530W,
      apparently the other companies that were re-selling the Trig unit did
      not pursue certification with the Garmin either.  But check into it,
      because this stuff changes very rapidly.
      
      Jim Parker
      
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Everything I Need To Know About
      Transponders
      From: don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
      Date: Sun, February 12, 2017 2:43 pm
      
      One additional comment. The external waas certified gps must also be on
      the approved list for the mode S transponder that it is feeding location
      information. At this point the Garmin 430w/530w are not on any approved
      list. This may change with software updates. Garmin did noy mention the
      480 so it is currently an unknown.
      
      On Feb 12, 2017 12:36 PM, "Kelly McMullen"  wrote:
      
      
       There is no change in the airspace requiring a transponder. However,
      there is a new requirement for ADS-B equipment. There are two ways to
      comply. You can either get a Mode S transponder that has software to
      give the data output needed, or you can get a UAT unit that is tied to
      your Mode C transponder. Either variety has to have  either an internal
      GPS that meets requirements, or be connected to a certified WAAS IFR
      GPS. There are a number of sources for the information, including
      manufacturers. However, a lot will confuse the issue.
       The requirements are only to transmit the required data stream.
      
       There are no reception requirements, but that is another entire ball of
      wax, as to what traffic and weather you do or don't receive, and how you
      display it in the cockpit. Very useful, but not required.
       Kelly
      
       On 2/12/2017 11:59 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
        At 09:58 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      
        Hi Bob,
      
       Just wondering where I should begin looking for more information on
       transponders.  Is there a source of information I could access that
       would answer questions, such as what are the minimum requirements for
       transponders?  What are the equipment standards for transponders?
       What should I look for in a new transponders? Are there changes coming
       in the standardization?  What is this ADB(?) all about? I will
       appreciate your comments and suggestions.  If there are other
       questions I should be asking, please address them as well. Thank for
       considering my inquiry.
      
         I've not kept current with the requirements
         or all the features/options in the transponder
         world. I've posted this question to the
         AeroElectric-List. There are folks on tha
         service with a great deal more knowledge on
         this topic.
      
      
         Bob . . .
      
        ===================================
       -
       Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
      target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
       ===================================
       FORUMS -
       eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
       ===================================
       WIKI -
       errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
       ===================================
       b Site -
                 -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
       rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
       ===================================
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      I don't believe there will be any "new" requirements in 2020 that aren't
      already on the books.  The current rules state that after Jan 1, 2020,
      you will still need a Mode-C / Mode-S transponder anywhere you need one
      today -- that's not changing. But you will also need to EITHER upgrade
      to a 1090ES transponder (one that provides the "Extended Squitter"
      capability), OR that you would need to add a UAT transmitter (978UAT) --
      in addition to your Mode-C / Mode-S transponder.  The UAT has to
      integrate with your existing Mode-C / Mode-S transponder to pick up the
      transponder squawk code (among other things) to include in the ADS-B OUT
      data stream.  
      
      If you remain within the US borders, and never fly above 18,000 feet,
      978UAT is "good enough".  And since an "ab-initio" UAT solution
      (including the WAAS GPS receiver) can be less expensive to install,
      about 20-25% of the aircraft equipping for ADS-B are taking that option.
      
      But, if you fly above 18,000 feet, you will be required to use the
      1090ES version.  And if you fly internationally (Canada, Mexico,
      Carribean, etc.), the odds are pretty good that you will also need the
      1090ES version.  To this point, ICAO has not recognized 978 UAT as a
      "standard", so it may wind up being a "US only" option.  Thus far, the
      vast majority of aircraft upgrading to ADS-B OUT seem to be doing 1090ES
      upgrades -- something like 75-80% of the ADS-B OUT fleet is 1090ES,
      depending on whose data you use.  As for cost, those who already have a
      certified WAAS-GPS receiver may find it far less expensive to go this
      route.  My previous airplane that had a 430W and a GTX-330 cost me well
      under $2,000 to upgrade to 1090ES by upgrading the 330 to 330ES ($1,200
      through Garmin) and wiring the 430W to the 330ES ($500-600 to the
      avionics shop doing that work). 
      
      Jim Parker
      
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Everything I Need To Know About
      Transponders
      From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
      Date: Sun, February 12, 2017 3:06 pm
      
      To be clear, there *will be* a new requirement. In 2020, but not at the
      moment. The FAA certainly held to its traditional Pro Grade Obfuscation
      in writing the upcoming regs, but basically you'll need ADSB out, with a
      Certifiable WAAS position source. *And* you'll need to keep a
      traditional transponder with encoder, unless you go with a Mode S with
      Extended Squitter (remember offuscation?).
      
      Opinions vary widely on whether ADSB prices will continue to fall, or
      start to rise, as 2020 approaches.
      
      
      Charlie
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
      
      Jim,
      You are correct wit is that h regaeds to the Garmin transponders. The
      information that I have from Trig i and a Avidyne 540Ts that Garmin
      430w/530w are not approved as the gps source unless they are updated per
      Garmin. The software update is not currently available and may never become
      available. My work around is a Trig/Dynon 261 mode s and an Avidyne 540T
      all certified and approved. Only draw back was the price.
      Don
      
      On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 1:44 PM,  wrote:
      
      >
      > Dion said:
      > << At this point the Garmin 430w/530w are not on any approved list. This
      > may change with software updates. >>
      >
      > I don't believe that statement is true, as both of these WAAS-equipped
      > devices ARE approved GPS sources for any of the Garmin ADS-B Out
      > transponders. I had a GTX-330 upgraded to 330ES (around $1200) by
      > Garmin, then connected to my 430W (cost about $600 for the shop to
      > rewire to add the GPS connector to the 330ES). This was fully approved,
      > and passed all the FAA's ADS-B Out testing. And a friend who had a 530W
      > and 330 did the same with his plane, and likewise passed the FAA
      > testing. I also know of several people who have upgraded to Garmin 335
      > and 345 transponders and used their 430W/530W as the GPS-WAAS source for
      > their ADS-B installations.
      >
      > One possible source of confusion might be that the older non-WAAS
      > 4XX/5XX models are NOT approved because they lack the WAAS GPS
      > capability.  A non-WAAS 430 (or 530) would need to be upgraded to 430W
      > (or 530W) to add the WAAS capability.  This can only be done by Garmin,
      > and I think they charge something like $3,000 (IIRC) to upgrade the
      > units.
      >
      > But the bigger issue for Garmin 430W/530W owners is working with
      > non-Garmin ADS-B transponders...  I believe the issue is that (at least
      > at one time) the Trig ADS-B transponder (which is re-sold by Avidyne and
      > several others under their own company name) was NOT certified with the
      > 430W/530W. Obviously, Garmin had no interest in pursuing certification
      > with someone else's equipment, and although I think Trig eventually
      > certified their own proprietary brand unit with the 430W/530W,
      > apparently the other companies that were re-selling the Trig unit did
      > not pursue certification with the Garmin either.  But check into it,
      > because this stuff changes very rapidly.
      >
      > Jim Parker
      >
      >
      > -------- Original Message --------
      > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Everything I Need To Know About
      > Transponders
      > From: don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
      > Date: Sun, February 12, 2017 2:43 pm
      > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >
      > One additional comment. The external waas certified gps must also be on
      > the approved list for the mode S transponder that it is feeding location
      > information. At this point the Garmin 430w/530w are not on any approved
      > list. This may change with software updates. Garmin did noy mention the
      > 480 so it is currently an unknown.
      >
      > On Feb 12, 2017 12:36 PM, "Kelly McMullen"  wrote:
      > 
      >
      >  There is no change in the airspace requiring a transponder. However,
      > there is a new requirement for ADS-B equipment. There are two ways to
      > comply. You can either get a Mode S transponder that has software to
      > give the data output needed, or you can get a UAT unit that is tied to
      > your Mode C transponder. Either variety has to have  either an internal
      > GPS that meets requirements, or be connected to a certified WAAS IFR
      > GPS. There are a number of sources for the information, including
      > manufacturers. However, a lot will confuse the issue.
      >  The requirements are only to transmit the required data stream.
      >
      >  There are no reception requirements, but that is another entire ball of
      > wax, as to what traffic and weather you do or don't receive, and how you
      > display it in the cockpit. Very useful, but not required.
      >  Kelly
      >
      >  On 2/12/2017 11:59 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      >   At 09:58 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >   Hi Bob,
      >
      >  Just wondering where I should begin looking for more information on
      >  transponders.  Is there a source of information I could access that
      >  would answer questions, such as what are the minimum requirements for
      >  transponders?  What are the equipment standards for transponders?
      >  What should I look for in a new transponders? Are there changes coming
      >  in the standardization?  What is this ADB(?) all about? I will
      >  appreciate your comments and suggestions.  If there are other
      >  questions I should be asking, please address them as well. Thank for
      >  considering my inquiry.
      >
      >    I've not kept current with the requirements
      >    or all the features/options in the transponder
      >    world. I've posted this question to the
      >    AeroElectric-List. There are folks on tha
      >    service with a great deal more knowledge on
      >    this topic.
      >
      >
      >    Bob . . .
      >
      >   ===================================
      >  -
      >  Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
      > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      >  ===================================
      >  FORUMS -
      >  eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
      >  ===================================
      >  WIKI -
      >  errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
      >  ===================================
      >  b Site -
      >            -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      >  rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >  ===================================
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      Joe,
      I may try using the Hall Effect amp sensor with the standby.alt. The
      manufacturer says the sensor may not be mounted on the hat side of the
      firewall. I know of a few people that have ignored this warning and they
      have had no issues with the sensor functioning after 1500 to 2500 hours of
      use. I might try this as well.
      
      On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 7:33 AM, user9253  wrote:
      
      >
      > Looking at Z-12, both alternator outputs are connected together through
      > very low resistance shunts and short circuit protection devices.  Your plan
      > does not change that.  The only disadvantage I see in your plan is that the
      > shunt will not have short circuit protection.  And the disadvantage of my
      > circuit posted above is that if the large ANL current limiter blows, then
      > both alternators are lost.  Separate shunts as in Z-13/8 eliminates those
      > disadvantages.
      >   You might consider using a 30 amp Maxi fuse instead of an ANL to save
      > money and weight.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466047#466047
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      Here is a link to the FAA's list of approved ADS-B Certified Equipment.
      https://www.faa.gov/nextgen/equipadsb/equipment/
      Unfortunately they do not keep it up to date.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466081#466081
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
      
      
      As things stand, there are no requirements for anything beyond old fashioned mode
      C to be mandatory in any parts of Canada. And even that is only required in
      a very small portion of airspace.
      
      On Feb 12, 2017, at 17:08,  
      wrote:
      
      But, if you fly above 18,000 feet, you will be required to use the
      1090ES version.  And if you fly internationally (Canada, Mexico,
      Carribean, etc.), the odds are pretty good that you will also need the
      1090ES version.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About Transponders
      
      My point is that it's not a current requirement; it *will be* in 2020.
      
      On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 4:08 PM,  wrote:
      
      >
      > I don't believe there will be any "new" requirements in 2020 that aren't
      > already on the books.  The current rules state that after Jan 1, 2020,
      > you will still need a Mode-C / Mode-S transponder anywhere you need one
      > today -- that's not changing. But you will also need to EITHER upgrade
      > to a 1090ES transponder (one that provides the "Extended Squitter"
      > capability), OR that you would need to add a UAT transmitter (978UAT) --
      > in addition to your Mode-C / Mode-S transponder.  The UAT has to
      > integrate with your existing Mode-C / Mode-S transponder to pick up the
      > transponder squawk code (among other things) to include in the ADS-B OUT
      > data stream.
      >
      > If you remain within the US borders, and never fly above 18,000 feet,
      > 978UAT is "good enough".  And since an "ab-initio" UAT solution
      > (including the WAAS GPS receiver) can be less expensive to install,
      > about 20-25% of the aircraft equipping for ADS-B are taking that option.
      >
      > But, if you fly above 18,000 feet, you will be required to use the
      > 1090ES version.  And if you fly internationally (Canada, Mexico,
      > Carribean, etc.), the odds are pretty good that you will also need the
      > 1090ES version.  To this point, ICAO has not recognized 978 UAT as a
      > "standard", so it may wind up being a "US only" option.  Thus far, the
      > vast majority of aircraft upgrading to ADS-B OUT seem to be doing 1090ES
      > upgrades -- something like 75-80% of the ADS-B OUT fleet is 1090ES,
      > depending on whose data you use.  As for cost, those who already have a
      > certified WAAS-GPS receiver may find it far less expensive to go this
      > route.  My previous airplane that had a 430W and a GTX-330 cost me well
      > under $2,000 to upgrade to 1090ES by upgrading the 330 to 330ES ($1,200
      > through Garmin) and wiring the 430W to the 330ES ($500-600 to the
      > avionics shop doing that work).
      >
      > Jim Parker
      >
      >
      > -------- Original Message --------
      > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Everything I Need To Know About
      > Transponders
      > From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
      > Date: Sun, February 12, 2017 3:06 pm
      > To: "aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com" 
      >
      > To be clear, there *will be* a new requirement. In 2020, but not at the
      > moment. The FAA certainly held to its traditional Pro Grade Obfuscation
      > in writing the upcoming regs, but basically you'll need ADSB out, with a
      > Certifiable WAAS position source. *And* you'll need to keep a
      > traditional transponder with encoder, unless you go with a Mode S with
      > Extended Squitter (remember offuscation?).
      >
      > Opinions vary widely on whether ADSB prices will continue to fall, or
      > start to rise, as 2020 approaches.
      >
      >
      > Charlie
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      Don, I have no experience with hall effect sensors, so can not advise.  That sensor
      could be mounted on the cold side of the firewall, but would require another
      wire through the firewall, 12 or 10 AWG, whatever the alternator requires.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466088#466088
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
      
      Yeah it would need to come in, through hall effect and then bach out.
      Trying to avoid the extra penetrations. Think I will just try the hall
      effect on the hot side of FW.
      Don
      
      On Feb 12, 2017 16:02, "user9253"  wrote:
      
      >
      > Don, I have no experience with hall effect sensors, so can not advise.
      > That sensor could be mounted on the cold side of the firewall, but would
      > require another wire through the firewall, 12 or 10 AWG, whatever the
      > alternator requires.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466088#466088
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z12 Question
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      The wire would not have to go back out.  Just connect it to the main power bus
      with a fuse or circuit breaker.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466097#466097
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Everything I Need To Know About  Transponders
From: 
Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: 
Feb 12, 2017
      
      
      Last I heard the 430/530 software had been patched, as it was required 
      for all transponders, not just non-Garmin. Garmin had to fix the data 
      stream output that wasn't 100% compliant. When they did that it became 
      ADSB+ output, and both the GPS and the transponder had to have software 
      updates to use that specific format. I'm using a GTN650 with a 
      Trig/Dynon transponder, and I had to update both. My avionics shop got 
      the update from Garmin.
      
      On 2/12/2017 3:16 PM, don van santen wrote:
      > Jim,
      > You are correct wit is that h regaeds to the Garmin transponders. The
      > information that I have from Trig i and a Avidyne 540Ts that Garmin
      > 430w/530w are not approved as the gps source unless they are updated per
      > Garmin. The software update is not currently available and may never
      > become available. My work around is a Trig/Dynon 261 mode s and an
      > Avidyne 540T all certified and approved. Only draw back was the price.
      > Don
      >
      > On Sun, Feb 12, 2017 at 1:44 PM,  > wrote:
      >
      >     >
      >
      >     Dion said:
      >     << At this point the Garmin 430w/530w are not on any approved list. This
      >     may change with software updates. >>
      >
      >     I don't believe that statement is true, as both of these WAAS-equipped
      >     devices ARE approved GPS sources for any of the Garmin ADS-B Out
      >     transponders. I had a GTX-330 upgraded to 330ES (around $1200) by
      >     Garmin, then connected to my 430W (cost about $600 for the shop to
      >     rewire to add the GPS connector to the 330ES). This was fully approved,
      >     and passed all the FAA's ADS-B Out testing. And a friend who had a 530W
      >     and 330 did the same with his plane, and likewise passed the FAA
      >     testing. I also know of several people who have upgraded to Garmin 335
      >     and 345 transponders and used their 430W/530W as the GPS-WAAS source for
      >     their ADS-B installations.
      >
      >     One possible source of confusion might be that the older non-WAAS
      >     4XX/5XX models are NOT approved because they lack the WAAS GPS
      >     capability.  A non-WAAS 430 (or 530) would need to be upgraded to 430W
      >     (or 530W) to add the WAAS capability.  This can only be done by Garmin,
      >     and I think they charge something like $3,000 (IIRC) to upgrade the
      >     units.
      >
      >     But the bigger issue for Garmin 430W/530W owners is working with
      >     non-Garmin ADS-B transponders...  I believe the issue is that (at least
      >     at one time) the Trig ADS-B transponder (which is re-sold by Avidyne and
      >     several others under their own company name) was NOT certified with the
      >     430W/530W. Obviously, Garmin had no interest in pursuing certification
      >     with someone else's equipment, and although I think Trig eventually
      >     certified their own proprietary brand unit with the 430W/530W,
      >     apparently the other companies that were re-selling the Trig unit did
      >     not pursue certification with the Garmin either.  But check into it,
      >     because this stuff changes very rapidly.
      >
      >     Jim Parker
      >
      >
      >     -------- Original Message --------
      >     Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Everything I Need To Know About
      >     Transponders
      >     From: don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com
      >     >
      >     Date: Sun, February 12, 2017 2:43 pm
      >     To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      >     
      >
      >     One additional comment. The external waas certified gps must also be on
      >     the approved list for the mode S transponder that it is feeding location
      >     information. At this point the Garmin 430w/530w are not on any approved
      >     list. This may change with software updates. Garmin did noy mention the
      >     480 so it is currently an unknown.
      >
      >     On Feb 12, 2017 12:36 PM, "Kelly McMullen"      > wrote:
      >     >
      >
      >      There is no change in the airspace requiring a transponder. However,
      >     there is a new requirement for ADS-B equipment. There are two ways to
      >     comply. You can either get a Mode S transponder that has software to
      >     give the data output needed, or you can get a UAT unit that is tied to
      >     your Mode C transponder. Either variety has to have  either an internal
      >     GPS that meets requirements, or be connected to a certified WAAS IFR
      >     GPS. There are a number of sources for the information, including
      >     manufacturers. However, a lot will confuse the issue.
      >      The requirements are only to transmit the required data stream.
      >
      >      There are no reception requirements, but that is another entire ball of
      >     wax, as to what traffic and weather you do or don't receive, and how you
      >     display it in the cockpit. Very useful, but not required.
      >      Kelly
      >
      >      On 2/12/2017 11:59 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      >       At 09:58 PM 2/11/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >       Hi Bob,
      >
      >      Just wondering where I should begin looking for more information on
      >      transponders.  Is there a source of information I could access that
      >      would answer questions, such as what are the minimum requirements for
      >      transponders?  What are the equipment standards for transponders?
      >      What should I look for in a new transponders? Are there changes coming
      >      in the standardization?  What is this ADB(?) all about? I will
      >      appreciate your comments and suggestions.  If there are other
      >      questions I should be asking, please address them as well. Thank for
      >      considering my inquiry.
      >
      >        I've not kept current with the requirements
      >        or all the features/options in the transponder
      >        world. I've posted this question to the
      >        AeroElectric-List. There are folks on tha
      >        service with a great deal more knowledge on
      >        this topic.
      >
      >
      >        Bob . . .
      >
      >       ===================================
      >      -
      >      Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
      >     target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      >     <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List>
      >      ===================================
      >      FORUMS -
      >      eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
      >     <http://forums.matronics.com>
      >      ===================================
      >      WIKI -
      >      errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
      >     <http://wiki.matronics.com>
      >      ===================================
      >      b Site -
      >                -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      >      rel="noreferrer"
      >     target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >     <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
      >      ===================================
      >
      >     ===========================
      >     -
      >     Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
      >     target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
      >     ===================================
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      >     eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
      >     ===================================
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      >               -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      >     rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >     ===================================
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
From: 
speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: 
Re: Icom antenna junction box
      
      
       Dean,
      
      I was one of those who was wondering if my "SL30 failure" might have been caused
      by the Icom junction box (I have mine wired like yours) but I just got word
      from the radio shop that the problem exists in the SL30.  The radio is on the
      way to Garmin for a $500 repair.  
      So, at this point I cannot say the Icom unit is causing any issue.
      
      Stan Sutterfield
      RV-8A
      Daytona Beach, FL
      
      
      Someone was asking on this forum about issues with the Icom antenna junction
      box installed in their plane.  I  put in one of those in between my SL-30
      Nav/Com and my belly antenna on the RV-6A. I've had a lot of scratchy and
      not so great transmissions/reception on that Radio.  I didn't think that
      maybe if would be that junction box.  I like the idea because it makes it
      easy to plug in my hand held and use my outside antenna. But I've never had
      to do that so if the junction box is causing crappy tx/Rx on that radio I'll
      take it out of the loop. I know the SL-30 is a great radio so this has
      puzzled me since I finished the RV.  Did whomever it was figure out whether
      the Icom junction box was causing radio Tx/Rx problems or not?  Does the
      junction box need to be removed from the loop or is there some I can do to
      fix it?  
      
      
      Thanks
      
      Dean Psiropoulos
      RV-6A N197DM
      Tarpon Sprgs, FL
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Icom antenna junction box
      
      Lo those many days ago that I tinkered with radios a little, keying the mic
      without a load connected would likely fry the transmitter.  Is it possible
      that a crappy connection internal to the splitter box could be damaging the
      current crop of radios over time?
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Icom antenna junction box
      
      At 06:02 AM 2/13/2017, you wrote:
      >Lo those many days ago that I tinkered with 
      >radios a little, keying the mic without a load 
      >connected would likely fry the transmitter.=C2  Is 
      >it possible that a crappy connection internal to 
      >the splitter box could be damaging the current crop of radios over time?
      
         An excellent notion to ponder . . . the root
         concern about the Icom Antenna j-box is the
         quality of the normally-closed switch contacts
         that automatically disconnect the panel mount
         radio from the feedline when the hand-held
         coax is plugged in.
      
         A secondary concern is loss of feedline integrity
         with the inclusion of simple, single strands of
         wire used to make up connections within the box.
         Without putting one on the test bench I don't
         KNOW the degree of upset but we know that it's not
         zero.
      
         The very first all solid state transceiver I
         brushed elbows with was installed in the T-41
         trainers we built for the USAF back in the 1967
         time frame. These were C-172s with engines out
         of the C-337 (0-360, 210 hp). Always flown as
         a two-place a/c (but with a compliment of heavier
         military avionics) this made for a VERY snappy
         C-172.
      
         Intended for use at the USAF Academy in Colorado,
         the extra horsepower was very welcomed for
         student training in the rarified air of the
         high plains.
      
         Part of the standard equipment was a little
         solid state, panel mount style transceiver
         mounted back in the tail and crystals installed
         only for 121.5 Mhz only.  I'd never heard of
         the brand before and now don't recall it . . .
         but I do recall that several radios were toasted
         during production test and trouble shooting phases
         due to transmission into open feedlines.
      
         This was long before the manufacturers figured
         out how to built an SWR detection system into the
         radio to effect automatic shutdown of the transmitter
         when SWR was too high. Further, the early VHF
         power transistors were rather intolerant of hi SWR
         to begin with.
      
         Modern radios are probably the much more robust,
         MOS-FET output stages and will include auto-shutdown
         for high SWR. However, a dodgy switch in the Icom
         antenna j-box could very ell contribute to noisy
         rformance of the radio.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
= = = PIDG SPLICES ARE SOLD OUT = = 
      
      
      The splices on hand are all spoken for.
      
      There's a young man who drops by my house
      most days after school to help around the
      shop. We'll set him to stuffing and addressing
      envelopes this afternoon!
      
      Thanks guys.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
From: 
"blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
      
      
      No, it's because the alternator output is 
      a loop that goes to zero current when 
      opened anywhere in that loop . . . one 
      fuse suffices for both leads. 
      
      
      Would I be assuming correctly this is also true for a three phase PMA?
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466129#466129
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
      
      
      No, to stop three phase current, at least two of the three phases must be opened.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466131#466131
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z-17/ alternator wire protection
From: 
"blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
      
      
      Agree...found my notes on this topic along with a drawing by Bob on how to disconnect
      3 phase PMA. [Rolling Eyes]
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466132#466132
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
Subject: 
"slow blow" ?
      
      The following statements appear in the (sometimes poorly translated) Rotax
      914 installation manual:
      
      "the rectifier-regulator has to be protected by a slow blowing 25A fuse..."
      
      "Each of the two fuel pumps has to be protected by y slow blowing 5A fuse
      in accordance with wiring diagram..."
      
      "The TCU (turbo control unit) has to be protected by a slow blowing 2A fuse
      in accordance with the wiring diagram..."
      
      Do you guys think they actually mean to call for slow blow fuses (as
      opposed to "regular" auto fuses)? Aren't fuses already "slow blow" when
      compared to breakers? Or did I get that backwards?
      
      Ken
      
      
      "the rectifier-regulator has to be protected by a slow blowing 50A fuse or
      a circuit breaker"
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
From: 
Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: 
Re: "slow blow" ?
      
      Ken;
      
      Fuses are generally "faster" than breakers. "Slow blow" fuses will hold greater
       overloads for longer before melting, thus the term "slow to blow". They will
      still usually be faster than an equivalent breaker. The greater the overload
      magnitude the faster the protective device opens in most all situations whether
      it be a fuse or a breaker.
      
      Bob McC
      
      ---------- Original Message ----------
      From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
      Date: February 13, 2017 at 2:37 PM
      
      
      The following statements appear in the (sometimes poorly translated) Rotax 914
      installation manual:
      
      "the rectifier-regulator has to be protected by a slow blowing 25A fuse..."
      
      "Each of the two fuel pumps has to be protected by y slow blowing 5A fuse in
      accordance with wiring diagram..."
      
      "The TCU (turbo control unit) has to be protected by a slow blowing 2A fuse in
      accordance with the wiring diagram..."
      
      Do you guys think they actually mean to call for slow blow fuses (as opposed to
      "regular" auto fuses)? Aren't fuses already "slow blow" when compared to
      breakers? Or did I get that backwards?
      
      Ken
      
      
      "the rectifier-regulator has to be protected by a slow blowing 50A fuse or a
      circuit breaker"
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: "slow blow" ?
      
      At 01:37 PM 2/13/2017, you wrote:
      >The following statements appear in the (sometimes poorly translated) 
      >Rotax 914 installation manual:
      >
      >"the rectifier-regulator has to be protected by a slow blowing 25A fuse..."
      
         Use MAX30 + inline holder
      
      >"Each of the two fuel pumps has to be protected by y slow blowing 5A 
      >fuse in accordance with wiring diagram..."
      
         An ATC5 in fuseblock is probably just fine.
      
      
      >"The TCU (turbo control unit) has to be protected by a slow blowing 
      >2A fuse in accordance with the wiring diagram..."
      
         An ATC3 in the fuseblock is recommended.
      
      
      >Do you guys think they actually mean to call for slow blow fuses (as 
      >opposed to "regular" auto fuses)? Aren't fuses already "slow blow" 
      >when compared to breakers? Or did I get that backwards?
      
         Compared to breakers, ALL fuses are faster than greased
         lightning. Then too, 'slo-blo' fuses are a tiny fraction
         of the fuse market and not available in our favorite
         plastic package.
      
         If you get nuisance trips, upsize the 'fast' fuse to
         one step.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Red/Blue PIDG tool 
      
      
      Just ran across an offering of the venerable
      AMP 59250 PIDG crimper on ebay
      
      http://tinyurl.com/grw4bdg
      
      I've still got the first one I ever owned. Bought
      it while I worked at Cessna the first time. I've
      purchased two more since. The price of this
      offer on eBay is VERY reasonable for this tool.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
Subject: 
Re: "slow blow" ?
      
      Thanks Bob!
      
      On Mon, Feb 13, 2017 at 4:56 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 01:37 PM 2/13/2017, you wrote:
      >
      > The following statements appear in the (sometimes poorly translated) Rotax
      > 914 installation manual:
      >
      > "the rectifier-regulator has to be protected by a slow blowing 25A fuse..."
      >
      >
      >   Use MAX30 + inline holder
      >
      > "Each of the two fuel pumps has to be protected by y slow blowing 5A fuse
      > in accordance with wiring diagram..."
      >
      >
      >   An ATC5 in fuseblock is probably just fine.
      >
      >
      > "The TCU (turbo control unit) has to be protected by a slow blowing 2A
      > fuse in accordance with the wiring diagram..."
      >
      >
      >   An ATC3 in the fuseblock is recommended.
      >
      >
      > Do you guys think they actually mean to call for slow blow fuses (as
      > opposed to "regular" auto fuses)? Aren't fuses already "slow blow" when
      > compared to breakers? Or did I get that backwards?
      >
      >
      >   Compared to breakers, ALL fuses are faster than greased
      >   lightning. Then too, 'slo-blo' fuses are a tiny fraction
      >   of the fuse market and not available in our favorite
      >   plastic package.
      >
      >   If you get nuisance trips, upsize the 'fast' fuse to
      >   one step.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
      
      
      Does it do a better job for typical home builder versus RCT-1?
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at Finish Kit
      Continental Titan IOX-360, 8.5:1, vertical sump, SDSEFI EM-5, injectors in heads.
      Aeroelectric Z-12.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466157#466157
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 13, 2017
Subject: 
Z12-Question
      
      Bob,
      No arguments with the Z13/8 being the most robust system for the dollars
      spent. The only thing I do not like about it is having to give up perfectly
      good devices due to an insufficient source of electrons to drive them. Z12
      has the power, but not the "layers".
      Is it possible/easy to have a parallel battery contactor and switch to
      actuate it? If not than how about a 2 rear replacement cycle for the
      contactor and switch? I already do the the annual replacement of the PC680
      battery. Any thoughts on this?
      Thanks, Don
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Icom antenna junction box
      
       >   Without putting one on the test bench I don't
       >  KNOW the degree of upset but we know that it's not
       >  zero.
      
      Well now, as it happens, I've got one in a dusty box somewhere.  Knowing
      how bored you tend to get *grin* I'd be willing to send it your way if you
      are interested.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool 
      
      
      Sigh. There goes the beer budget for another month.
      
      On Feb 13, 2017, at 20:59, Robert L. Nuckolls, III 
      wrote:
      
      
      Just ran across an offering of the venerable
      AMP 59250 PIDG crimper on ebay
      
      http://tinyurl.com/grw4bdg
      
      I've still got the first one I ever owned. Bought
      it while I worked at Cessna the first time. I've
      purchased two more since. The price of this
      offer on eBay is VERY reasonable for this tool.
      
      
       Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
      
      
      johnbright wrote:
      > Does it do a better job for typical home builder versus RCT-1?
      
      
      Disregard, I bought the last one.
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at Finish Kit
      Continental Titan IOX-360, 8.5:1, vertical sump, SDSEFI EM-5, injectors in heads.
      Aeroelectric Z-12.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466173#466173
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
      
      At 08:12 AM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      >johnbright wrote:
      > > Does it do a better job for typical home builder versus RCT-1?
      
          Short answer, yes. But the contrary question
          is, if the AMP T-head is the best, is the
          RCT-1 inadequate?
      
          As I described here, the el-cheepo tools produce
          mechanically adequate crimps on PIDG terminals
      
         http://tinyurl.com/kfk6jss
      
          They 'ain't pretty' but they work . . .
      
          I own several el-cheepo 3-holers that are
          carried in my toolboxes . . . at risk for
          being lost or stolen. Or more likely
          being an inventory of tools I can give away
          to individuals who show an interest and
          aptitude for using them well. I've lost
          a few 3-holers but I've given away many
          more.
      
          The AMP t-head tools are the cream of the
          crop for functional utility in application
          of PIDG terminals. But it's like comparing
          a Craftsman, induction motor, ball bearing
          table saw with a ToolCraft, brushed motor,
          sleeve bearing saw. BOTH are capable of
          making a square cut or dado groove.
          But the execution with the later saw
          requires more attention on the part of
          the operator.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
      
      I have both the 3 hole and the two position t-head. I never use the three
      hole on red or blue amp terminals because they do not look as good and use
      more energy to squeez the crimper. My hands have some arthritis so it is
      painful to use the three holer. I wish that I could find a t-head for the
      yellow amp connercors. I would buy it in a heart beat to avoid the pain.
      
      On Feb 14, 2017 10:53, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 08:12 AM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      >
      > john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
      >
      >
      > johnbright wrote:
      > > Does it do a better job for typical home builder versus RCT-1?
      >
      >
      >    Short answer, yes. But the contrary question
      >    is, if the AMP T-head is the best, is the
      >    RCT-1 inadequate?
      >
      >    As I described here, the el-cheepo tools produce
      >    mechanically adequate crimps on PIDG terminals
      >
      >   http://tinyurl.com/kfk6jss
      >
      >    They 'ain't pretty' but they work . . .
      >
      >    I own several el-cheepo 3-holers that are
      >    carried in my toolboxes . . . at risk for
      >    being lost or stolen. Or more likely
      >    being an inventory of tools I can give away
      >    to individuals who show an interest and
      >    aptitude for using them well. I've lost
      >    a few 3-holers but I've given away many
      >    more.
      >
      >    The AMP t-head tools are the cream of the
      >    crop for functional utility in application
      >    of PIDG terminals. But it's like comparing
      >    a Craftsman, induction motor, ball bearing
      >    table saw with a ToolCraft, brushed motor,
      >    sleeve bearing saw. BOTH are capable of
      >    making a square cut or dado groove.
      >    But the execution with the later saw
      >    requires more attention on the part of
      >    the operator.
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Icom antenna junction box
      
      At 05:42 AM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      >=C2 >=C2  =C2 Without putting one on the test bench I don't
      >=C2 > =C2 KNOW the degree of upset but we know that it's not
      >=C2 > =C2 zero.
      >
      >Well now, as it happens, I've got one in a dusty 
      >box somewhere.=C2  Knowing how bored you tend to 
      >get *grin* I'd be willing to send it your way if you are interested.
      
         Sure. I'd like that . . .
      
         The one I photographed was new out of the box
         and did function well. Having one with some
         effects of aging would be an interesting thing
         to ponder.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
      
      I believe the AMP tool for yellow crimps is a different design: doesn't have
       a T head. I just got one on eBay at the same time, $45.
      
      > On Feb 14, 2017, at 2:04 PM, don van santen  wrote
      :
      > 
      > I have both the 3 hole and the two position t-head. I never use the three h
      ole on red or blue amp terminals because they do not look as good and use mo
      re energy to squeez the crimper. My hands have some arthritis so it is painf
      ul to use the three holer. I wish that I could find a t-head for the yellow a
      mp connercors. I would buy it in a heart beat to avoid the pain.
      > 
      >> On Feb 14, 2017 10:53, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectr
      ic.com> wrote:
      >> At 08:12 AM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      oo.com>
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>> johnbright wrote:
      >>> > Does it do a better job for typical home builder versus RCT-1?
      >> 
      >>    Short answer, yes. But the contrary question
      >>    is, if the AMP T-head is the best, is the
      >>    RCT-1 inadequate?
      >> 
      >>    As I described here, the el-cheepo tools produce
      >>    mechanically adequate crimps on PIDG terminals
      >> 
      >>   http://tinyurl.com/kfk6jss
      >> 
      >>    They 'ain't pretty' but they work . . .
      >> 
      >>    I own several el-cheepo 3-holers that are
      >>    carried in my toolboxes . . . at risk for
      >>    being lost or stolen. Or more likely
      >>    being an inventory of tools I can give away
      >>    to individuals who show an interest and
      >>    aptitude for using them well. I've lost
      >>    a few 3-holers but I've given away many
      >>    more.
      >> 
      >>    The AMP t-head tools are the cream of the
      >>    crop for functional utility in application
      >>    of PIDG terminals. But it's like comparing
      >>    a Craftsman, induction motor, ball bearing
      >>    table saw with a ToolCraft, brushed motor,
      >>    sleeve bearing saw. BOTH are capable of
      >>    making a square cut or dado groove.
      >>    But the execution with the later saw
      >>    requires more attention on the part of
      >>    the operator.
      >> 
      >>   Bob . . .
      >> 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z12-Question
      
      At 10:36 PM 2/13/2017, you wrote:
      >Bob,
      >No arguments with the Z13/8 being the most robust system for the 
      >dollars spent. The only thing I do not like about it is having to 
      >give up perfectly good devices due to an insufficient source of 
      >electrons to drive them. Z12 has the power, but not the "layers".
      
      
          Are you telling us that you have enough
          equipment on your airplane to basically
          overload your main alternator?
      
      >Is it possible/easy to have a parallel battery contactor and switch 
      >to actuate it? If not than how about a 2 rear replacement cycle for 
      >the contactor and switch? I already do the the annual replacement of 
      >the PC680 battery. Any thoughts on this?
      >Thanks, Don
      
          It would be REALLY useful to see what the
          load analysis for your airplane looks like.
          There's a blank form here
      
      http://tinyurl.com/7jqypwj
      
          than helps you organize your power management
          decisions and requirements. One page
          for each bus. This is usually battery, main
          and e-bus. There are also some Excel
          examples of load analysis in Excel here
      
      http://tinyurl.com/9rt6ymn
      
          Load analysis is one of the very first development
          documents crafted in the design of a new aircraft.
          It gets inputs and revisions from all factions of
          the design team. Just because you're a team-of-one
          doesn't make the document any less useful . . . and
          if you'd like to get good input from the team here
          on the List, having that equipment list, electrical
          demands and mission parameters to look at will
          greatly improve the quality of advice we can give.
      
          If you're needing to drive the bus with more than
          one alternator to meet present energy needs, I'm
          wondering if you've missed a decimal point or
          forgot to carry somewhere.
      
      
         Bob . . .  
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12-Question
      
      Bob,
      No I am not in danger of overloading my main alternator.  What I was saying
      is that if I need to go to my E Bus I have to give up equipment that while
      not mandatory for continuation of flight in IFR conditions, it sure helps
      to have it.  I therefore wanted to try Z12 as my "system". You advised me
      that this was not a good idea, as there is no "layering" in Z12. What I
      wanted to know is if having parallel battery contactors and control
      switches would work in place of the layering that exists in z13/8. I
      
      realize that if the battery fails that the entire system would shut down.
      This is the only way that I can see that z13/8 is more robust than z12. I
      replace the battery during the annual condition inspection and feel safe
      using this system if the parallel contactors do not present any hazard.
      
      
      Daylight IFR amp load after battery is charged after engine start is 13 to
      17A. This can be reduced to 11A but no less  This is too heavy a load for
      the SD8 to carry. Therefore I want to run the SD20 backup system.  I am
      thinking that this would be slightly less robust than z14 but more robust
      than z12 as originally posted.
      
      
      On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 1:35 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 10:36 PM 2/13/2017, you wrote:
      >
      > Bob,
      > No arguments with the Z13/8 being the most robust system for the dollars
      > spent. The only thing I do not like about it is having to give up perfectly
      > good devices due to an insufficient source of electrons to drive them. Z12
      > has the power, but not the "layers".
      >
      >
      >    Are you telling us that you have enough
      >    equipment on your airplane to basically
      >    overload your main alternator?
      >
      > Is it possible/easy to have a parallel battery contactor and switch to
      > actuate it? If not than how about a 2 rear replacement cycle for the
      > contactor and switch? I already do the the annual replacement of the PC680
      > battery. Any thoughts on this?
      > Thanks, Don
      >
      >
      >    It would be REALLY useful to see what the
      >    load analysis for your airplane looks like.
      >    There's a blank form here
      >
      > http://tinyurl.com/7jqypwj
      >
      >    than helps you organize your power management
      >    decisions and requirements. One page
      >    for each bus. This is usually battery, main
      >    and e-bus. There are also some Excel
      >    examples of load analysis in Excel here
      >
      > http://tinyurl.com/9rt6ymn
      >
      >    Load analysis is one of the very first development
      >    documents crafted in the design of a new aircraft.
      >    It gets inputs and revisions from all factions of
      >    the design team. Just because you're a team-of-one
      >    doesn't make the document any less useful . . . and
      >    if you'd like to get good input from the team here
      >    on the List, having that equipment list, electrical
      >    demands and mission parameters to look at will
      >    greatly improve the quality of advice we can give.
      >
      >    If you're needing to drive the bus with more than
      >    one alternator to meet present energy needs, I'm
      >    wondering if you've missed a decimal point or
      >    forgot to carry somewhere.
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
CNBTR connector
From: 
DANIEL PELLETIER <pelletie1959(at)me.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
      
      
      Somebody knows this kind on connector and how to open the female one, to be able
      to solder my wires
      
      Daniel Pelletier
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Fwd: CNBTR connector
From: 
DANIEL PELLETIER <pelletie1959(at)me.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
      
      
      > 
      > Somebody knows this kind on connector and how to open the female one, to be able
      to solder my wires.
      
      
      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIY1Z12/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
      
      > 
      > Daniel Pelletier
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
neal.george(at)gmail.com
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12-Question
      
      
      If a qualified load analysis indicates that 8 amps will not carry your endurance
      loads, it is a simple matter to convert Z13/8 to Z13/20.  Exchange the SD8 for
      an SD20 and the rectifier-regulator  for LR3-C...
      
      Neal George
      Sent from my iPhone
      
      > On Feb 13, 2017, at 10:36 PM, don van santen  wrote:
      > 
      > Bob,
      > No arguments with the Z13/8 being the most robust system for the dollars spent.
      The only thing I do not like about it is having to give up perfectly good devices
      due to an insufficient source of electrons to drive them. Z12 has the power,
      but not the "layers". 
      > Is it possible/easy to have a parallel battery contactor and switch to actuate
      it? If not than how about a 2 rear replacement cycle for the contactor and switch?
      I already do the the annual replacement of the PC680 battery. Any thoughts
      on this? 
      > Thanks, Don
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
      
      
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
      > At 08:12 AM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      > 
      >     As I described here, the el-cheepo tools produce
      >     mechanically adequate crimps on PIDG terminals
      > 
      >     http://tinyurl.com/kfk6jss (http://tinyurl.com/kfk6jss)
      > 
      >     They 'ain't pretty' but they work . . .
      > 
      >     I own several el-cheepo 3-holers that are
      >     carried in my toolboxes . . . at risk for
      >     being lost or stolen. Or more likely
      >     being an inventory of tools I can give away
      >     to individuals who show an interest and
      >     aptitude for using them well. I've lost
      >     a few 3-holers but I've given away many
      >     more.
      > 
      >     The AMP t-head tools are the cream of the
      >     crop for functional utility in application
      >     of PIDG terminals. But it's like comparing
      >     a Craftsman, induction motor, ball bearing
      >     table saw with a ToolCraft, brushed motor,
      >     sleeve bearing saw. BOTH are capable of
      >     making a square cut or dado groove.
      >     But the execution with the later saw
      >     requires more attention on the part of
      >     the operator.
      >  
      >    Bob . . .
      
      
      Thanks Bob,
      
      What I meant to say is I bought the last T head one in stock at the eBay link you
      posted.
      
      Now I remember reading your document about PIDG crimpers a few years ago. Great
      write up! Is that a typo where it says red is 18-22 gage? Should it be 16-22?
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at Finish Kit
      Continental Titan IOX-360, 8.5:1, vertical sump, SDSEFI EM-5, injectors in heads.
      Aeroelectric Z-12.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466203#466203
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Z12-Question
      
      That would work. How ever the SD20 will probably not run without a battery.
      Also the consept of an endurance bus, at least in my case, becomes
      meaningless because I could carry the entire load on the SD20.
      z13 allows for contactor and or master switch failure without the lights
      going out.  Battery failure may also be tolerated with z13 as designed.
      Z12 with parallel contactors or a 40A relay to bypass the contactor
       allowsthe same protection  except for battery failure. I change out the
      battery once a year.
      Comments?
      
      On Feb 14, 2017 5:52 PM,  wrote:
      
      >
      > If a qualified load analysis indicates that 8 amps will not carry your
      > endurance loads, it is a simple matter to convert Z13/8 to Z13/20.
      > Exchange the SD8 for an SD20 and the rectifier-regulator  for LR3-C...
      >
      > Neal George
      > Sent from my iPhone
      >
      > > On Feb 13, 2017, at 10:36 PM, don van santen 
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > Bob,
      > > No arguments with the Z13/8 being the most robust system for the dollars
      > spent. The only thing I do not like about it is having to give up perfectly
      > good devices due to an insufficient source of electrons to drive them. Z12
      > has the power, but not the "layers".
      > > Is it possible/easy to have a parallel battery contactor and switch to
      > actuate it? If not than how about a 2 rear replacement cycle for the
      > contactor and switch? I already do the the annual replacement of the PC680
      > battery. Any thoughts on this?
      > > Thanks, Don
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
ADS-B Misinformation
From: 
Paul Millner <millner(at)me.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
      
      
       >> The information that I have from Trig... is that Garmin 430w/530w 
      are not approved as the GPS source unless they are updated per Garmin. 
      The software update is not currently available and may never become 
      available.
      
      One has to be VERY careful... for instance, Garmin opined that the 480
      was not suitable for use as an ADS-B source without an upgrade.
      However... the FAA disagreed. The FAA had approved the 480, as is, under
      an STC with the NavWorx UAT box. So as far as the FAA is concerned, the
      480 with current software meets the STC and is good to go. Of course,
      there's a pending AD that may affect certain of the NavWorx boxes, but
      that's not because of the software level of the Garmin 480. So the
      Garmin "guidance" is incorrect as far as the FAA is concerned. You'll
      have to check on Trig and Avidyne certification separately... but since
      the Avidyne unit is a rebadged NavWorx, I'm thinking... no problem.
      
        >> If you remain within the US borders, and never fly above 18,000
      feet,978UAT is "good enough".
      
      The US borders mention is a bit of red herring. You can fly your UAT
      *outside* US borders as well. Canada has no requirement for ADS-B. There
      is an optional use area in an obscure corner of the country, above
      27,000'. Most of us aren't going there, and of course, could opt out of
      the optional use even if we did.
      
      No other western hemisphere country currently has an ADS-B
      requirement... so just where outside of US borders are we concerned?!
      
      Paul
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Neal George <ngeorge(at)cmg.aero>
Subject: 
Re: Z12-Question
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
      
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Fwd: CNBTR connector
From: 
Eric Page <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Feb 14, 2017
      
      
      Does the threaded collar unscrew from the cable-grip end of the connector body?
      If so, you may find one or more screws hidden under the collar that allow the
      body to be split.  It seems to me that I once used a similar connector made
      by Hirose Electric of Japan that opened this way.
      
      Eric
      
      
      > On Feb 14, 2017, at 3:36 PM, DANIEL PELLETIER  wrote:
      >> Somebody knows this kind on connector and how to open the female one, to be
      able to solder my wires.
      > 
      > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIY1Z12/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
      >> 
      >> Daniel Pelletier
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Fwd: CNBTR connector
      
      At 05:36 PM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > >
      > > Somebody knows this kind on connector and how to open the female 
      > one, to be able to solder my wires.
      >
      >
      >https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIY1Z12/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
      >
      > >
      > > Daniel Pelletier
      
         I've not encountered that particular product
         before. It APPEARS to be a plastic clone of
         the Mil-C-5015 connectors with roots dating
         back to WWII.  If so, check as follows:
      
      Emacs!
      
      
         See if there is a threaded joint under
         the shaded area. Unscrew the back-shell
         from the connector body. The Threaded
         ring that engages the mating connector
         simply floats on the housing held in
         place by the back-shell.
         mating
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Fwd: CNBTR connector
      
      At 05:36 PM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > >
      > > Somebody knows this kind on connector and how to open the female 
      > one, to be able to solder my wires.
      >
      >
      >https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIY1Z12/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
      >
      > >
      > > Daniel Pelletier
      
         I've not encountered that particular product
         before. It APPEARS to be a plastic clone of
         the Mil-C-5015 connectors with roots dating
         back to WWII.  If so, check as follows:
      
      Emacs!
      
      
         See if there is a threaded joint under
         the shaded area. Unscrew the back-shell
         from the connector body. The Threaded
         ring that engages the mating connector
         simply floats on the housing held in
         place by the back-shell.
         mating
      
      -I STAND CORRECTED -
      
         Found a whole line of products from CNBTR that
         includes some solder-cup, emulations (if not
         exact clones) of a Mil-spec connector line.
      
         I've ordered one in to take a peek
      
      http://tinyurl.com/jdgnmtt
      
         These are an interesting product with an
         attractive price.  I'm looking forward
         to a closer look.
      
      
         Bob . . .  
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
      
      
      >
      >
      >Now I remember reading your document about PIDG crimpers a few years 
      >ago. Great write up! Is that a typo where it says red is 18-22 gage? 
      >Should it be 16-22?
      >
      >--------
      >John Bright, RV-6A, at Finish Kit
      >Continental Titan IOX-360, 8.5:1, vertical sump, SDSEFI EM-5, 
      >injectors in heads.
      >Aeroelectric Z-12.
      
         Yes. Good eye. I've fixed it.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: 
ADS-B Misinformation
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
      
      
      >>>> If you remain within the US borders, and never fly above 
      >>>> 18,000 feet, 978UAT is "good enough".
      
      >> The US borders mention is a bit of red herring. You can fly 
      >> your UAT *outside* US borders as well. Canada has no 
      >> requirement for ADS-B. There is an optional use area in an 
      >> obscure corner of the country, above 27,000'. Most of us 
      >> aren't going there, and of course, could opt out of the 
      >> optional use even if we did.
      
      >> No other western hemisphere country currently has an 
      >> ADS-B requirement... so just where outside of US borders 
      >> are we concerned?!
      
      I'm not personally concerned about it at all, as I don't plan to fly to
      Canada, Mexico, or anywhere else outside the US.  But I DO have friends
      who fly their planes to Europe, and others who fly to South America, and
      it may well affect them.  (Note the use of the word "may" in that
      sentence.)
      
      I believe I mentioned in one of my posts that Mexico is discussing
      legislation that follows the US model, quite possibly even to the  point
      of including approval for 978 UAT, but that is purely speculative, as
      nothing has been enacted yet, and it appears that their relationship
      with the US is a bit "strained" at the moment...  Previously, their
      rules tended to parallel US rules, but nowadays, who knows?  Until their
      legislation is finalized, we're all just speculating.
      
      Canada generally follows ICAO (as do the rest of the countries further
      south), and ICAO has been pretty clear that they are going to require
      1090ES, and that 978 UAT will NOT be considered or approved.  That
      doesn't mean that you need 1090ES to go to Canada today, nor on January
      1st, 2020.  But if/when Canada does join the ADS-B mandate, it is
      probably going to require 1090ES, following the ICAO rules. (Again, note
      the use of the word "probably" in that sentence.)
      
      So, yes, if you're trying to decide HOW to meet the 2020 ADS-B OUT
      mandate, and you plan to fly OUTSIDE the US, it might be a good idea to
      at least CONSIDER equipping with 1090ES, rather than 978 UAT.  AOPA and
      others have published data showing that about 75-80% of current ADS-B
      aircraft are 1090ES.  I suspect a lot of them are going that route not
      because they will fly above 18000 ft, nor fly outside the US, but
      because they would rather ditch their ancient Transponder now, as part
      of the upgrade to ADS-B, rather than supplement it with a 978 UAT
      device.  I know that's my current thinking, since my transponder seems
      to have been original equipment back in 1965...
      
      Or, you can just follow the time-honored aviation principle of "wait
      until not having ADS-B OUT prevents me from doing something I want to
      do, and worry about it then..."  But judging by the backlog at my local
      avionics shops, people who do this may be in for a considerable wait
      before they can get it done...  Free country, so make your choice and
      live with it.  Since I live just inside a Mode-C veil, I don't have much
      of a choice, other than deciding between 1090ES and 978UAT.  Unless I
      want to just park my plane, and that's not a viable option for me.
      
      Jim Parker
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Fwd: CNBTR connector
From: 
DANIEL PELLETIER <pelletie1959(at)me.com>
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
      
      Thank you Bob,
      
      You're right for the threaded joint under the shaded area.  To unscrew the b
      ack-shell from the connector body, we must let the male part in place in the
       female part. You place the male part in a vise and use a vise grip to unscr
      ew the back-shell. A particularity you unscrew counter clockwise. 
      
      Daniel
      
      > Le 15 f=C3=A9vr. 2017 =C3- 05:02, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@
      aeroelectric.com> a =C3=A9crit :
      > 
      > At 05:36 PM 2/14/2017, you wrote:
      e.com>
      >> 
      >> 
      >> > 
      >> > Somebody knows this kind on connector and how to open the female one, t
      o be able to solder my wires.
      >> 
      >> 
      >> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIY1Z12/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
      
      >> 
      >> > 
      >> > Daniel Pelletier
      > 
      >   I've not encountered that particular product
      >   before. It APPEARS to be a plastic clone of
      >   the Mil-C-5015 connectors with roots dating
      >   back to WWII.  If so, check as follows:
      > 
      > <26db80.jpg> 
      > 
      >   See if there is a threaded joint under
      >   the shaded area. Unscrew the back-shell
      >   from the connector body. The Threaded
      >   ring that engages the mating connector
      >   simply floats on the housing held in
      >   place by the back-shell.
      >   mating 
      > 
      > -I STAND CORRECTED -
      > 
      >   Found a whole line of products from CNBTR that
      >   includes some solder-cup, emulations (if not
      >   exact clones) of a Mil-spec connector line.
      > 
      >   I've ordered one in to take a peek
      > 
      > http://tinyurl.com/jdgnmtt
      > 
      >   These are an interesting product with an 
      >   attractive price.  I'm looking forward
      >   to a closer look.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >   Bob . . .
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Gerry Van Dyk <gerry.vandyk(at)eastlink.ca>
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
Subject: 
ADS-B Misinformation
      
      Nav Canada has been using ADS-B for years, but ONLY on the overseas routes over
      the north Atlantic and Hudson's Bay. To the best of my knowledge there is no
      discussion about implementing any form of ADS-B for Canadian domestic operations.
      Mode C is all that's required in any controlled airspace in Canada.
      http://www.navcanada.ca/en/products-and-services/pages/on-board-operational-initiatives-ads-b.aspx
      
      Gerry van Dyk
      Wetaskiwin, Alberta
      
      On 02/15/17 07:52 AM, jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com wrote:
      > 
      > Canada generally follows ICAO (as do the rest of the countries further
      > south), and ICAO has been pretty clear that they are going to require
      > 1090ES, and that 978 UAT will NOT be considered or approved. That
      > doesn't mean that you need 1090ES to go to Canada today, nor on January
      > 1st, 2020. But if/when Canada does join the ADS-B mandate, it is
      > probably going to require 1090ES, following the ICAO rules. (Again, note
      > the use of the word "probably" in that sentence.)
      > 
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Flap control suggestions
From: 
GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
      
      /Le 11/02/2017  21:08, Bill Watson a crit :
      /
      > //
      > /I've been using TCW's Intellignet Flap Controller 
      > <http://www.tcwtech.com/Installation%20instructions%20model%20IFC-10_rev1.1.pdf> 
      > and have been happy with it.  I use it with a switch where the up 
      > position takes it all the way to reflex and each momentary touch of 
      > the downs switch takes it from reflex to zero to first position down 
      > to full down.
      > /
      
      Thank you everyone for your suggestions.
      I've passed them on to my partners.
      
      
      -- 
      Best regards,
      Gilles
      http://contrails.free.fr
      http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 15, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Fwd: CNBTR connector
      
      At 08:58 AM 2/15/2017, you wrote:
      >Thank you Bob,
      >
      >You're right for the threaded joint under the shaded area.  To 
      >unscrew the back-shell from the connector body, we must let the male 
      >part in place in the female part. You place the male part in a vise 
      >and use a vise grip to unscrew the back-shell. A particularity you 
      >unscrew counter clockwise.
      
         Yeah, these appear to be a near-if-not-exact clone
         of a legacy mil-spec connector. I'll know more about
         them when the sample I ordered gets here. The
         prices are certainly right . . .
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Fwd: CNBTR connector
From: 
Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Date: 
Feb 16, 2017
      
      Here the whole range, up to 65 pins:
      
      https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170216014307&SearchText=y2m+connector
      
      Interested in your conclusions..
      
      Jan de Jong
      
      
      On 2/16/2017 4:34 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      > At 08:58 AM 2/15/2017, you wrote:
      >> Thank you Bob,
      >>
      >> You're right for the threaded joint under the shaded area.  To 
      >> unscrew the back-shell from the connector body, we must let the male 
      >> part in place in the female part. You place the male part in a vise 
      >> and use a vise grip to unscrew the back-shell. A particularity you 
      >> unscrew counter clockwise.
      >
      >   Yeah, these appear to be a near-if-not-exact clone
      >   of a legacy mil-spec connector. I'll know more about
      >   them when the sample I ordered gets here. The
      >   prices are certainly right . . .
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Rich Ulmen <rich.ulmen(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Feb 16, 2017
Subject: 
Re: Red/Blue PIDG tool
      
      
      I grabbed one for less than $60!   Thanks for the heads up Bob!
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      > On Feb 14, 2017, at 7:05 AM, Alec Myers  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > Sigh. There goes the beer budget for another month.
      > 
      > On Feb 13, 2017, at 20:59, Robert L. Nuckolls, III 
      wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > Just ran across an offering of the venerable
      > AMP 59250 PIDG crimper on ebay
      > 
      > http://tinyurl.com/grw4bdg
      > 
      > I've still got the first one I ever owned. Bought
      > it while I worked at Cessna the first time. I've
      > purchased two more since. The price of this
      > offer on eBay is VERY reasonable for this tool.
      > 
      > 
      > Bob . . . 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Feb 16, 2017
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Fwd: CNBTR connector
      
      At 03:49 AM 2/16/2017, you wrote:
      
      >Here the whole range, up to 65 pins:
      >
      >https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170216014307&SearchText=y2m+connector
      >
      >Interested in your conclusions..
      
      

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January 31, 2017 - February 16, 2017

AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-ns

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