AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-nw

April 25, 2017 - May 21, 2017



      
      At 10:04 AM 4/25/2017, you wrote:
      >Because I am installing the optional 40 amp 
      >Rotax alternator (internally regulated Denso) 
      >this discussion is very interesting to me. >From 
      >what I am reading, it sounds like the only way 
      >to shut it down would be to interrupt the output 
      >(B wire) with a switch or pull breaker.=C2
      >
      >If that is the case, what is the purpose of the 
      >IG wire, which runs from the bus, through the master switch, to the
       alternator?
      
         This wire WILL control the alternator as long
         as there are no failures of the electronics
         that respond to that command.
      
         To incorporate IR alternators in this manner
         on airplanes argues with legacy design rules
         driven by failure mode effects analysis that
         assumes every part will fail . . . and then
         designing a system that will mitigate that
         failure.  I.E. ov protection with absolute
         control over field excitation.
      
         Using the automotive convention for IR alternators
         is acceptable in the TC world only if the
         IR electronics can be declared to have a 1
         in ten to the minus 9 failures per flight
         hour (Part 25 or higher qualifications).
         The stock automotive alternator is indeed
         VERY reliable but the process controls and
         sprinkling of holy water needed to declare
         a 1 x 10^-9 failure rate would far exceed
         the value of proposed market (see my earlier
         posting about regulatory/bureaucratic mill-stones).
      
         Hence, it's more 'practical' to convert the
         stock automotive alternator to an externally
         regulated machine (B&C approach) -OR- modify
         the IR circuitry to bring out the (+) field
         supply lead for implementation of absolute
         control (PlanePower approach).
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
At 12:00 PM 4/25/2017, you wrote: >I did all the background research necessary to >do a fully-protected and whisper-quiet (and >probably TSO-able) one a while back, but then >Commit Lift and a few others came along and it >wasn=99t really worth it anymore. > >My chip-level design was going to be a minimum >of $100 a unit to sell anyway, and it=99s hard >to compete when people don=99t understand the >difference between your $100 product and a $10 product. Yeah, didn't we have some conversation about noise filters on that project? I fully understand and empathize with the go/no-go decision to go toe-to-toe with the competition . . . ESPECIALLY in a market like OBAM aircraft where volumes will be agonizingly low unless you spend kilobux promoting the product . . . which drives up the selling price . . . Been there, done that . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Daniel Hooper <enginerdy(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
Date: Apr 25, 2017
> On Apr 25, 2017, at 6:12 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > Yeah, didn't we have some conversation about > noise filters on that project? I don=92t believe that was me. Once I got a prototype I was going to talk to you about your testing fee, but my filter was going to be baked into the converter circuit design. I mostly got hung up on packaging, since it needed some kind of nice enclosure that isn=92t available off the shelf. > I fully understand > and empathize with the go/no-go decision to > go toe-to-toe with the competition . . . ESPECIALLY > in a market like OBAM aircraft where volumes > will be agonizingly low unless you spend kilobux > promoting the product . . . which drives up the > selling price . . . Yup! =97Daniel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
At 11:30 AM 4/25/2017, you wrote: >Bob >Could you right up the details on building our own Quiet USB charger? The task is four-fold. (1) You need a quiet 5v source. Easy to get with an number of linear regulator devices. Assuming you want to craft a "high power" source (2A) you'll need a device rated for that kind of current or more. There are dozens of suitable candidates. Here is but one http://tinyurl.com/l227b8c http://tinyurl.com/k37l6kz (2) Then you need to mount it to a heatsink that will keep it operably cool while dissipating (14-5)x2 or 14 watts. This will look something like this: Emacs! (3) Then you need to wire a USB connector with the appropriate resistor network that tells your portable appliance that this is a high current USB power source and it's okay to load it accordingly. I'm not cognizant of the details for selecting these 'configuration telltale' resistors . . . perhaps someone on the List has researched this. (4) then you need to package all this stuff in a manner that offers some aviation grade robustness. Perhaps I need to qualify my suggestion that a DIY USB power source is 'easy' . . . it is if you've been there, done that . . . or perhaps have explicit instructions along with a bill of materials. Frankly, I wouldn't bother to build one. I've got a number of cigar lighter, USB power sources in 4 different vehicles ranging from 500mA to 2A in charging capacity. One is a 4-port device good for 2A per port that I think I got at Walmart. I can recall having pitched a couple such devices into the refuse barrel at my local gas-and-wienies mart after discovering that they interfered with the car radio or my EMS/Fire services radios. But those instances are rare. Right now, my biggest victim/antagonist issue is a JVC panel mounted AM/FM radio in my Sedona has a spur right on the EMS repeater output frequency. Can't listen to audio files on the JVC while I'm on call. Got a new Kenwood on the floor at my desk right now that will be rotated into the Sedona as soon as I have time. If you REALLY want to build one, I and others here on the List will endeavor to assist but I think you'll find the return on $time$ to be of poor value. You can experiment with a lot of commercial off the shelf offerings for peanuts. Here's the one I think I bought for the truck . . . http://tinyurl.com/kujga3t This one has coexisted with the compliment of electronics in my car. I've got a digital broadband receiver on the shelf that's been there for about a year. I think it will let me 'sniff' the environment around various electro whizzies to explore for potential conflicts . . . but that project is way on the back burners. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
At 01:16 PM 4/25/2017, you wrote: > >My experience was virtually identical to Daniel's. I spent several >months and a several $hundred$ on prototypes of a ground-up design >to get a charger that worked well and -- with some guidance from our >mentor here -- was electrically quiet. Oh yeah, it was a gleam in Eric's eye that we tried to nurture . . . Nothing ventured, nothing gained but I'm pleased that he made the go/no-go decision before tooling up and building inventory that wouldn't/couldn't move . . . I've had a couple of those projects . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 25, 2017
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
Thanks Bob. On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 3:07 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 10:04 AM 4/25/2017, you wrote: > > Because I am installing the optional 40 amp Rotax alternator (internally > regulated Denso) this discussion is very interesting to me. >From what I am > reading, it sounds like the only way to shut it down would be to interrup t > the output (B wire) with a switch or pull breaker.=C3=82 > > If that is the case, what is the purpose of the IG wire, which runs from > the bus, through the master switch, to the alternator? > > > This wire WILL control the alternator as long > as there are no failures of the electronics > that respond to that command. > > To incorporate IR alternators in this manner > on airplanes argues with legacy design rules > driven by failure mode effects analysis that > assumes every part will fail . . . and then > designing a system that will mitigate that > failure. I.E. ov protection with absolute > control over field excitation. > > Using the automotive convention for IR alternators > is acceptable in the TC world only if the > IR electronics can be declared to have a 1 > in ten to the minus 9 failures per flight > hour (Part 25 or higher qualifications). > The stock automotive alternator is indeed > VERY reliable but the process controls and > sprinkling of holy water needed to declare > a 1 x 10^-9 failure rate would far exceed > the value of proposed market (see my earlier > posting about regulatory/bureaucratic mill-stones). > > Hence, it's more 'practical' to convert the > stock automotive alternator to an externally > regulated machine (B&C approach) -OR- modify > the IR circuitry to bring out the (+) field > supply lead for implementation of absolute > control (PlanePower approach). > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
From: Eric Page <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Apr 25, 2017
On Apr 25, 2017, at 5:09 PM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: > (3) Then you need to wire a USB connector with the appropriate resistor network that tells your portable appliance that this is a high current USB power source and it's okay to load it accordingly. I'm not cognizant of the details for selecting these 'configuration telltale' resistors . . . perhaps someone on the List has researched this. I've spent an embarrassing amount of time researching it. I'll see if I can write something up that will help to clarify it for everyone. I have a few days off this week; I should have the time. Eric ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
From: Paul Millner <millner(at)me.com>
Date: Apr 25, 2017
On 4/25/2017 9:38 PM, Eric Page wrote: > I've spent an embarrassing amount of time researching it. I'll see if I can write something up that will help to clarify it for everyone. I have a few days off this week; I should have the time. There's a Kindle book (!) on this subject, though I don't know if it's up to date on the latest high-high current solutions and USB 3.0 Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
Thanks for the info. My question is much more "novice". Perhaps I should describe it a different way. Imagine I took the B&C voltage regulator, and made it the size of a dime, and stuffed it into an Externally regulated alternator. How would that be different from what Denso does with their internally regulated alternator? >From what I see from the diagrams, the VR simply decides how much V to send out the F wire. Why would the external give more control? Thanks for any clarity! :) =8B Mickey Coggins On 25 April 2017 at 15:18, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 04:45 AM 4/25/2017, you wrote: > > > One point that is not clear for me about the internal/external VR > discussion. I apologize in advance if this has been clarified somewhere > else and I just missed it. > > I don't understand why or how an external voltage regulator can safely cu t > the field using the crowbar method and an internal regulator cannot. If I > look at the wiring diagrams there does not seem to be a difference. Is i t > just that the external VR is more robust? > > Thanks for any clarity you can provide. > > > The externally regulated alternator has NO electronics > inside . . . just a rudimentary alternator. > > [image: Emacs!] > > Interrupting the 'field input' line offers total > control over alternator output. > > The internally regulated alternator has solid > state devices that control alternator output. > There is no field power input connection, only > a 'control' connection that talks to the > electronics. > > [image: Emacs!] > > There are failure modes INTERNAL to the alternator > that can cause an over voltage condition . . . a > * condition not controllable* from outside. > > Hence, the legacy preference for externally regulated > alternators that allow a system integrator to include > over voltage protection in some form. It doesn't > have to be the 'crowbar' style . . . there are several > satisfactory approaches. > > The crowbar ov module offers the simplest and most > robust configuration but it's not intended to displace > any other demonstrably functioning ov management system. > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
There's no difference in how they control the field windings. The big difference *access* to the wire going to the field, by the pilot, for manual control, or the OV module, for automatic control. With external regulation, you can easily interrupt the power feeding the regulator (or even the field wire running from the reg to the alternator's field winding) to remove power from the field winding if the regulator fails. But with an (unmodified) IR alternator, you don't have access to either of those wires (they're both inside the alternator), so if the regulator fails, there's no way to remove power from the field if the regulator fails. The IG terminal on an IR alternator does not supply/remove power from the regulator; it's a 'instruction' terminal that gives the regulator an instruction to turn on or off. If the regulator fails internally, it will likely be unable to comply with the instruction from the IG terminal, so you've lost external control of the alternator. Now the only option is to open the B-lead to keep the OV away from the avionics and battery. Charlie On Wed, Apr 26, 2017 at 1:17 AM, Mickey Coggins wrote: > Thanks for the info. My question is much more "novice". Perhaps I shoul d > describe it a different way. > > Imagine I took the B&C voltage regulator, and made it the size of a dime, > and stuffed it into an Externally regulated alternator. How would that b e > different from what Denso does with their internally regulated alternator ? > > From what I see from the diagrams, the VR simply decides how much V to > send out the F wire. Why would the external give more control? > > Thanks for any clarity! :) > > > =8B > > Mickey Coggins > > On 25 April 2017 at 15:18, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > >> At 04:45 AM 4/25/2017, you wrote: >> >> >> One point that is not clear for me about the internal/external VR >> discussion. I apologize in advance if this has been clarified somewhere >> else and I just missed it. >> >> I don't understand why or how an external voltage regulator can safely >> cut the field using the crowbar method and an internal regulator cannot. >> If I look at the wiring diagrams there does not seem to be a difference. >> Is it just that the external VR is more robust? >> >> Thanks for any clarity you can provide. >> >> >> The externally regulated alternator has NO electronics >> inside . . . just a rudimentary alternator. >> >> [image: Emacs!] >> >> Interrupting the 'field input' line offers total >> control over alternator output. >> >> The internally regulated alternator has solid >> state devices that control alternator output. >> There is no field power input connection, only >> a 'control' connection that talks to the >> electronics. >> >> [image: Emacs!] >> >> There are failure modes INTERNAL to the alternator >> that can cause an over voltage condition . . . a >> * condition not controllable* from outside. >> >> Hence, the legacy preference for externally regulated >> alternators that allow a system integrator to include >> over voltage protection in some form. It doesn't >> have to be the 'crowbar' style . . . there are several >> satisfactory approaches. >> >> The crowbar ov module offers the simplest and most >> robust configuration but it's not intended to displace >> any other demonstrably functioning ov management system. >> >> Bob . . . >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
> Why would the external give more control? They both have equal control as long as they do not fail. What happens when the voltage regulator fails? How do you shut off the failed regulator to prevent over-voltage? Some internally regulated alternators have an ignition switch terminal that controls the alternator. But that input does not make and break the field circuit. All it does is command the internal regulator to shut off the field. A failed internal regulator could ignore that command and continue to supply excessive field current. The external voltage regulator has easily accessible wires and circuit protection. It is relatively easy to tap into the externally regulated alternator field circuit to add a switch or automatic over-voltage protection. Yes, it is possible to do the same thing with an internally regulated alternator, but it requires much more skill and knowledge which the average homebuilder does not have. The internally regulated alternator gets its field current from within the alternator. The externally regulated alternator gets its field current from the aircraft main power bus. Which is easiest to interrupt? -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468798#468798 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
From: "rv8ch" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
user9253 wrote: > The internally regulated alternator gets its field current from within the alternator. > The externally regulated alternator gets its field current from the aircraft main power bus. > Which is easiest to interrupt? This is exactly what triggered my question - in all the Z diagrams it shows the field wire coming from the external VR with no circuit breaker or switch, so it's counting on the good behavior of the VR to cut off the alternator - same as with an internal VR. Why do we have more trust in the external VR than the internal VR? Experience? Known design differences? Perhaps I'm missing something fundamental. Curious minds want to know! :) -------- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468801#468801 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
On Wed, Apr 26, 2017 at 8:03 AM, rv8ch wrote: > > > user9253 wrote: > > The internally regulated alternator gets its field current from within > the alternator. > > The externally regulated alternator gets its field current from the > aircraft main power bus. > > Which is easiest to interrupt? > This is exactly what triggered my question - in all the Z diagrams it > shows the field wire coming from the external VR with no circuit breaker or > switch, so it's counting on the good behavior of the VR to cut off the > alternator - same as with an internal VR. > > Why do we have more trust in the external VR than the internal VR? > Experience? Known design differences? Perhaps I'm missing something > fundamental. Curious minds want to know! :) > > -------- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > > In the Z diagrams, follow all the wires leaving the regulator. One of them (the A terminal on the generic Ford model) goes through the alternator half of the master switch, to a 5A breaker, which is tied to the main buss. The 5A breaker supplies the regulator with its power. So with external regulators, you're removing the only source of electrons to the field by completely removing power from the regulator. This also prevents letting additional smoke out if the regulator 'guts' are shorted to ground internally. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
From: "rv8ch" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote: > In the Z diagrams, follow all the wires leaving the regulator. One of them (the A terminal on the generic Ford model) goes through the alternator half of the master switch, to a 5A breaker, which is tied to the main buss. The 5A breaker supplies the regulator with its power. So with external regulators, you're removing the only source of electrons to the field by completely removing power from the regulator. This also prevents letting additional smoke out if the regulator 'guts' are shorted to ground internally. Duh - now I get it - the light has turned on! [Idea] Thanks! -------- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468806#468806 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
At 08:56 AM 4/26/2017, you wrote: > > >ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote: > > In the Z diagrams, follow all the wires leaving the regulator. > One of them (the A terminal on the generic Ford model) goes through > the alternator half of the master switch, to a 5A breaker, which is > tied to the main buss. The 5A breaker supplies the regulator with > its power. So with external regulators, you're removing the only > source of electrons to the field by completely removing power from > the regulator. This also prevents letting additional smoke out if > the regulator 'guts' are shorted to ground internally. >Duh - now I get it - the light has turned on! [Idea] Thanks! What you have 'discovered' is the process by which an FMEA is accomplished. You study power, control, and potential fault paths for EVERY component in a system . . . to deduce: a. How can this part fail? b. If it fails, how will I know it? c. Can it fail in a 'hidden' condition . . . with a potential for misery in the cockpit? -or- d. is the failure pre-flight detectable? e. if it does fail, what are the consequences and what's the most elegant path to resolution? Unlike the reliability studies that endeavor to build confidence in numbers that may or may not have practical validity (who tests batches of components for a million hours?), the FMEA assumes that EVERY part WILL fail. Then the system integrator figures out how to mitigate that failure . . . i.e. PLAN-B. I've seen massive spread sheets that go into minute detail on every little component or feature in a system wherein the author proudly announces "Eureka! We have achieved MTBF Nirvana!" I find it takes a tiny fraction of the time and effort to conduct and resolve a simple FMEA that offers a demonstrable degree of probability for comfortable termination of flight. Congrats my friend with the hopes that this new insight will serve you well . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is a battery contactor really needed?
From: "eschlanser" <eschlanser(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
It's been a couple of years since I designed my plane's electrical system with no battery contactor. What brand or style battery contactor is preferred/acceptable for a OBAM airplane with a Z - (x) wiring system? I installed the barrel style starter contactor but replaced it with the flat style when Bob recommended that change. Now I'm wondering if there's a new style of battery contactor that has superseded the barrel style. One advantage to eliminating the battery contactor is keeping the voltage available for starting that would be lost to the battery contactor. Eric - W10 with Z-8 inspired elec system.[/u] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468812#468812 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Date: Apr 26, 2017
Yes, thanks. Told myself something wrong once and believed it ever after. Jan de Jong On 4/15/2017 2:38 PM, MMiller wrote: > In a PM generator like the Rotax, frequency is > not a function of the number of coils in the stator, it's a function > of the number of magnets in the rotor divided by two. Divided by two > because the magnets are installed in the rotor with the poles > alternating. Just look at the flux lines of one circuit. Two magnets > in series inducing a field through the laminated stator of two coils. > The two coils are connected in series with one of the coils "crossed" > so the magnetic effect is additive. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is a battery contactor really needed?
At 09:39 AM 4/26/2017, you wrote: > >It's been a couple of years since I designed my plane's electrical >system with no battery contactor. > >What brand or style battery contactor is preferred/acceptable for a >OBAM airplane with a Z - (x) wiring system? I installed the barrel >style starter contactor but replaced it with the flat style when Bob >recommended that change. Now I'm wondering if there's a new style of >battery contactor that has superseded the barrel style. The 'whisky barrel' style contactors have a track record that goes back nearly 100 years. Process and materials improvements have been applied throughout that time . . . they are of excellent value. The recommended change for starter contactors was based on the fact that even low duty-cycle whisky-barrel devices featured large area, low pressure contact surfaces compared to the more modern devices designed specifically for starter control. But assuming you've got a Plan-B in place for managing a battery contactor failure (or its wiring, switch, terminals, etc) then the style is of little significance. If it were my airplane, the battery contactor would be one of these . . . http://tinyurl.com/koq788n . . . or its several cousins. Contactor failure in the whisky-barrel styles is rare and it usually announces an impending failure with finicky starter performance. So the first time you get an intermittent starter behavior accompanied by a black panel or 'chattering' starter contactor, then it's time to replace the critter (assuming your battery satisfactorily passes cap and load tests). >One advantage to eliminating the battery contactor is keeping the >voltage available for starting that would be lost to the battery contactor. energy demands of a battery contactor are trivial compared with that required to energize the starter . . . hence no energy conservation benefits there . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Date: Apr 27, 2017
I've been using this one in the plane and I haven't noticed any interference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1UWA4O/ -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87 Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - https://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar Flyer N866RH - https://deej.net/glastar/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Apr 27, 2017
I use the exact same thing...SCOSCHE USBC242M, 12 Watts per port (2.4A) 4.8A total. In fact, I probably own about 10 of them with the 2 that were delivered to my house today. I've been using them in both of my aircraft now for at least a couple years with no interference. I don't think I'd buy TSO'd for anything, given that installing a simple lighter/Aux jack is cheap and simple and technology changes so fast. Why spend a couple hundred on a TSO'd box that will probably be obsolete in 3 years anyway. My new audio panels use USB-C ports, and I'm sure within a couple years many other devices will be using USB-C too. Easier to just buy a few new chargers to pop back in the jack. I've said the same thing to people who when building their plane put DVD players in the panel and headrest monitors in the seats. 2 years after it was installed, nobody used DVD anymore. Now you just load the movie on your ipad. Tim On 4/27/2017 2:22 PM, Dj Merrill wrote: > > I've been using this one in the plane and I haven't noticed any > interference: > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1UWA4O/ > > -Dj > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2017
From: ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: fuel gage/sender compatability
Calling all Electronics Wizards; I have a fuel sender installed in each wing that ranges from 10 ohms full to 73 ohms empty. These are hard to get to, and I don't want to change them out unless necessary. I have a dual fuel gauge capable of reading the fuel depth in two tanks. It wants 40 ohms full and 240 ohms empty. Is there some type of "resistance multiplier circuit that I could install between sender and gauge so that they can be used together? Cheers! Stu. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: TSU'd Usb charger??
Date: Apr 27, 2017
Tim, quit talking about me. BTW, anybody what some PSengineering video screens? Hate to just throw them out....but nobody on e-bay wanted them. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 1:48 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: TSU'd Usb charger?? I use the exact same thing...SCOSCHE USBC242M, 12 Watts per port (2.4A) 4.8A total. In fact, I probably own about 10 of them with the 2 that were delivered to my house today. I've been using them in both of my aircraft now for at least a couple years with no interference. I don't think I'd buy TSO'd for anything, given that installing a simple lighter/Aux jack is cheap and simple and technology changes so fast. Why spend a couple hundred on a TSO'd box that will probably be obsolete in 3 years anyway. My new audio panels use USB-C ports, and I'm sure within a couple years many other devices will be using USB-C too. Easier to just buy a few new chargers to pop back in the jack. I've said the same thing to people who when building their plane put DVD players in the panel and headrest monitors in the seats. 2 years after it was installed, nobody used DVD anymore. Now you just load the movie on your ipad. Tim On 4/27/2017 2:22 PM, Dj Merrill wrote: > > I've been using this one in the plane and I haven't noticed any > interference: > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1UWA4O/ > > -Dj > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TSU'd Usb charger??
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Apr 27, 2017
HA, funny Rene', I didn't even know that you did that too. :) I know there were quite a few though. If it's an avionics item, it's probably good for a few years. But if it's consumer goods, well, now you know. :) Tim On 04/27/2017 02:59 PM, Rene wrote: > > Tim, quit talking about me. BTW, anybody what some PSengineering video > screens? Hate to just throw them out....but nobody on e-bay wanted them. > > Rene' > 801-721-6080 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Interesting thread on overvoltage event
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Date: Apr 27, 2017
Bob, thanks a lot for the little experiment. No descending into weeds necessary then. Jan de Jong > In the mean time, I subjected a fully charged ETX36 lithium battery to a 40v, 15A constant current source. > > Didn't take time to record and plot the data but my suspicions were correct, these batteries WILL grunt some level of over-charge current. > > In this experiment, it took several seconds for battery voltage to rise above 16.0 volts. Risks to accessories in an airplane fitted with a PM (read small) alternator and legacy ov protection (16.2v) are small. Indeed, if the system loads are a significant fraction of the alternators maximum output, one might well never trip a legacy ov protection system. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: fuel gage/sender compatability
At 02:52 PM 4/27/2017, you wrote: > > >Calling all Electronics Wizards; >I have a fuel sender installed in each wing that ranges from 10 ohms >full to 73 ohms empty. These are hard to get to, and I don't want to >change them out unless necessary. I have a dual fuel gauge capable >of reading the fuel depth in two tanks. It wants 40 ohms full and >240 ohms empty. Is there some type of "resistance multiplier circuit >that I could install between sender and gauge so that they can be >used together? >Cheers! Stu. Yeah . . . sort of. It's called an 'operational amplifier'. A versatile device that can 'watch' your 10/73 transducer and convert it into a VOLTAGE that mimics the voltages expected across the 40/240 transducer when wired to the mated instrument. What we need is a measure of the transducer bias current that comes out of the instrument when terminated with a 40 ohm resistor, and then with a 240 ohm resistor. Knowing those values will allow us to calculate the resistors that tell the op-amp how to apply its magic. This technique will set the 'endpoints' for the instrument . . . calibration at empty and full. Accuracy of the readings between these values will have to be deduced by filling the tanks with the ship in a pitch attitude consistent with level flight. However, even without calibration, they'll be sufficiently accurate to run your pucker factor up as the needles drop below 1/4 full. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Yoder" <ftyoder(at)yoderbuilt.com>
Subject: Mitchell fuel gauge.
Date: Apr 27, 2017
I have a Mitchell fuel gauge that read 0-15 lbs and I need it to read 0-7 lbs. My fuel pressure is 3/4 to 3 lbs. Is there a way to to make the gauge indicate half of the value across the 0-15 scale? Mitchell doesn't sell a 0-7 lb gauge. Thanks for any help. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Mitchell fuel gauge.
At 07:15 PM 4/27/2017, you wrote: >I have a Mitchell fuel gauge that read 0-15 lbs and I need it to >read 0-7 lbs. My fuel pressure is 3/4 to 3 lbs. Is there a way to to >make the gauge indicate half of the value across the 0-15 scale? >Mitchell doesn't sell a 0-7 lb gauge. >Thanks for any help. I presume you're talking about gage with and electronic transducer at the engine and a 'specialized' meter at the panel. It's not difficult to re-scale some instruments and tailor them to other signal sources. Here's a loadmeter I used to sell that was made from a generic, 1 milliamp DC instrument. http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9007/9007-120-1_Loadmet These were easy to take apart, glue new scale placards onto the existing plate, paint the pointer and put it back together. Then I tailored matching shunts for any value of 100% from 10 to 100Amps. Your task depends on what kind of transducer/ meter configuration you have. It MIGHT be so simple as to reduce the value of a calibration resistor such that the instrument reads 2x real pressure. If I were starting from scratch, I'd get a transducer like this http://tinyurl.com/m2noxox and fit one of the meters like I showed above with a 0-5 psi scale plate. Then, a handful of jelly bean components would provide 5v regulated to power the instrument and set scale-factor + offset to match the transducer. Your Mitchell hardware MIGHT be so adaptable but I can't offer more concrete information without having the parts on the bench to see how they dance with each other. Maybe someone on the List has dug into Mitchell's electro-magic . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2017
From: ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: Re: fuel gage/sender compatability
Hi Bob; Thanks for your help. I will get 40 and 240 ohm resistors, make the test, and get back to you with the results via this mode. Cheers! Stu. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 4:03:16 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fuel gage/sender compatability At 02:52 PM 4/27/2017, you wrote: Calling all Electronics Wizards; I have a fuel sender installed in each wing that ranges from 10 ohms full to 73 ohms empty. These are hard to get to, and I don't want to change them out unless necessary. I have a dual fuel gauge capable of reading the fuel depth in two tanks. It wants 40 ohms full and 240 ohms empty. Is there some type of "resistance multiplier circuit that I could install between sender and gauge so that they can be used together? Cheers! Stu. Yeah . . . sort of. It's called an 'operational amplifier'. A versatile device that can 'watch' your 10/73 transducer and convert it into a VOLTAGE that mimics the voltages expected across the 40/240 transducer when wired to the mated instrument. What we need is a measure of the transducer bias current that comes out of the instrument when terminated with a 40 ohm resistor, and then with a 240 ohm resistor. Knowing those values will allow us to calculate the resistors that tell the op-amp how to apply its magic. This technique will set the 'endpoints' for the instrument . . . calibration at empty and full. Accuracy of the readings between these values will have to be deduced by filling the tanks with the ship in a pitch attitude consistent with level flight. However, even without calibration, they'll be sufficiently accurate to run your pucker factor up as the needles drop below 1/4 full. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
From: "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com>
Date: May 01, 2017
I had what is suspected as being an overvoltage event take out my nav radio recently. Here's the platform data: Continental IO550 24v electrical system VPX Power Distribution system Stock 50a alternator w/B&C LR3C-24 voltage regulator SD20 backup alternator w/B&C LS-1A voltage regulator Val Avionics NAV2KR nav radio The other day I got a circuit fault alarm on the nav radio circuit when I hit the avionics master. When I switched to the screen to get details, it showed "short circuit". Powered cycled the circuit and the fault returned. Went to troubleshoot once I got home and found no fault in the wiring. Sent the radio back to Val and got a call that the overvoltage protection circuit was blown. That it would have taken 50+ volts to cause that. Talked with them for a while about what could have caused the OV and the only thing they could think of after describing how I operate was powering on the alternator AFTER engine start. I was told (and have since done) to start on battery only then after the engine was running, turn on the alternator. And I never turn on the avionics until the alternator is on. Then I threw the scenario to the VPX guys. They don't know what could have caused an OV event to take out the nav radio (and only the nav radio. All other devices are fine). But they agreed with Val that the alternator should be on during engine start. And that the VPX has overvoltage protection but only when the alternator is on. So I guess my question is: Have I been starting planes the wrong way for the past 20 years? Should the alternator be on during engine start? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468901#468901 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 04:48 PM 5/1/2017, you wrote: > >I had what is suspected as being an overvoltage event take out my >nav radio recently. > >Here's the platform data: >Continental IO550 >24v electrical system >VPX Power Distribution system >Stock 50a alternator w/B&C LR3C-24 voltage regulator >SD20 backup alternator w/B&C LS-1A voltage regulator >Val Avionics NAV2KR nav radio > >The other day I got a circuit fault alarm on the nav radio circuit >when I hit the avionics master. When I switched to the screen to get >details, it showed "short circuit". Powered cycled the circuit and >the fault returned. Went to troubleshoot once I got home and found >no fault in the wiring. Sent the radio back to Val and got a call >that the overvoltage protection circuit was blown. That it would >have taken 50+ volts to cause that. Talked with them for a while >about what could have caused the OV and the only thing they could >think of after describing how I operate was powering on the >alternator AFTER engine start. > >I was told (and have since done) to start on battery only then after >the engine was running, turn on the alternator. And I never turn on >the avionics until the alternator is on. > >Then I threw the scenario to the VPX guys. They don't know what >could have caused an OV event to take out the nav radio (and only >the nav radio. All other devices are fine). But they agreed with Val >that the alternator should be on during engine start. And that the >VPX has overvoltage protection but only when the alternator is on. > >So I guess my question is: Have I been starting planes the wrong way >for the past 20 years? Should the alternator be on during engine start? It doesn't matter. Waazayyy back when, the exemplar generator regulator had three principal components. Three relay-looking devices were configured (1) to prevent the back-feed of battery voltage into the generator (making it run like a motor), (2) an output current limiter to prevent smoking the armature wires due to overload and (3) a voltage regulator. Emacs! Unlike the generators of yesteryear, an alternator is inherently current limited by its magnetics. This feature, combined with the diode array (converts stator winding AC voltage in to battery friendly DC) means that CURRENT LIMIT and reverse current cuttouts are not necessary. Emacs! The key phrase in the foregoing narrative is CURRENT LIMITING. Whether you're speaking of generators or alternators, there is a finite limit to the current they can supply. That current level is only a small fraction greater than the nameplate rating of the machine. Wwwaaay back when, the avionics master switch was perceived to be a prophylactic against 'spike generated by starters'. In years since, DO160/Mil-STD-704 design verification guided the appliance designer in the simple task of making their product immune to any voltage excursions one might expect from the ship's DC power system. Over those same years, I've had occasion to attach data acquisition systems to dozens of airplanes. Like the elusive 'snipe', no matter how close I looked or longingly I called . . . no such critter ever emerged. A question I've asked dozens of appliance engineers goes something like this: "Under what conditions of normal or inadvertent abnormal management of the aircraft's power system will bus voltage exceed catastrophic failure limits for your product?" The real answer should be "none". In 50 years of working with alternators, starter generators and batteries both in the lab and in aircraft, I've never had the slightest concerns for turning batteries and alternators on/off in any order. An alternator coming on after the engine is started may deliver a small overshoot . . . usually less than 1 volt due to regulation dynamics. But in no way can it push the bus to levels suggested by your radio guy. Another set of questions to ask: "How much current do you need to push into a battery to elevate the 28v bus to say, 50 volts?" The answer is: "hundreds of amps for an EXTENDED period of time . . . like tens of seconds." The next question: "How does an alternator rated at 60 amps produce such an event?" The answer is: "It can't". If the ov protection system built into the radio was damaged, I hypothesize a design or manufacturing flaw. I'd be willing to help them sort it out . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
Date: May 01, 2017
I have met a couple pilots who insist on starting the engine with the altern ator off. I seem to remember that this was to protect the alternator. I'm no t sure from what. Has anyone ever seen an alternator that has been damaged ( or stressed or worn) by being on during start? Also Bob, please forgive what is probably a silly question that I should thi nk about rather than asking but if an alternator can't raise bus voltage eno ugh to damage avionics why am I building a crowbar disconnect over voltage m odule? Or is it just this particular avionic that cannot be damaged by an alternato r but others are vulnerable? Or something to do with it being a 28V system i nstead of 14V? Sebastien > On May 1, 2017, at 18:59, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectr ic.com> wrote: > > At 04:48 PM 5/1/2017, you wrote: om> >> >> I had what is suspected as being an overvoltage event take out my nav rad io recently. >> >> Here's the platform data: >> Continental IO550 >> 24v electrical system >> VPX Power Distribution system >> Stock 50a alternator w/B&C LR3C-24 voltage regulator >> SD20 backup alternator w/B&C LS-1A voltage regulator >> Val Avionics NAV2KR nav radio >> >> The other day I got a circuit fault alarm on the nav radio circuit when I hit the avionics master. When I switched to the screen to get details, it s howed "short circuit". Powered cycled the circuit and the fault returned. We nt to troubleshoot once I got home and found no fault in the wiring. Sent th e radio back to Val and got a call that the overvoltage protection circuit w as blown. That it would have taken 50+ volts to cause that. Talked with the m for a while about what could have caused the OV and the only thing they co uld think of after describing how I operate was powering on the alternator A FTER engine start. >> >> I was told (and have since done) to start on battery only then after the e ngine was running, turn on the alternator. And I never turn on the avionics until the alternator is on. >> >> Then I threw the scenario to the VPX guys. They don't know what could ha ve caused an OV event to take out the nav radio (and only the nav radio. All other devices are fine). But they agreed with Val that the alternator shoul d be on during engine start. And that the VPX has overvoltage protection bu t only when the alternator is on. >> >> So I guess my question is: Have I been starting planes the wrong way for t he past 20 years? Should the alternator be on during engine start? > > It doesn't matter. Waazayyy back when, the exemplar generator > regulator had three principal components. Three relay-looking > devices were configured (1) to prevent the back-feed of battery > voltage into the generator (making it run like a motor), (2) an > output current limiter to prevent smoking the armature wires > due to overload and (3) a voltage regulator. > > > > <2afa004.jpg> > > Unlike the generators of yesteryear, an alternator is > inherently current limited by its magnetics. This feature, > combined with the diode array (converts stator winding > AC voltage in to battery friendly DC) means that CURRENT > LIMIT and reverse current cuttouts are not necessary. > > <2afa061.jpg> > > The key phrase in the foregoing narrative is CURRENT > LIMITING. Whether you're speaking of generators or alternators, > there is a finite limit to the current they can supply. > That current level is only a small fraction greater than > the nameplate rating of the machine. > > Wwwaaay back when, the avionics master switch was > perceived to be a prophylactic against 'spike generated > by starters'. In years since, DO160/Mil-STD-704 design > verification guided the appliance designer in the > simple task of making their product immune to any > voltage excursions one might expect from the ship's > DC power system. Over those same years, I've had > occasion to attach data acquisition systems to dozens > of airplanes. Like the elusive 'snipe', no matter how > close I looked or longingly I called . . . no such > critter ever emerged. > > A question I've asked dozens of appliance engineers > goes something like this: "Under what conditions of > normal or inadvertent abnormal management of the aircraft's > power system will bus voltage exceed catastrophic > failure limits for your product?" > > The real answer should be "none". In 50 years > of working with alternators, starter generators > and batteries both in the lab and in aircraft, > I've never had the slightest concerns for turning > batteries and alternators on/off in any order. > An alternator coming on after the engine is started > may deliver a small overshoot . . . usually less than > 1 volt due to regulation dynamics. But in no way > can it push the bus to levels suggested by your > radio guy. > > Another set of questions to ask: "How much current > do you need to push into a battery to elevate the > 28v bus to say, 50 volts?" The answer is: > "hundreds of amps for an EXTENDED period of time . . . > like tens of seconds." > > The next question: "How does an alternator rated > at 60 amps produce such an event?" The answer is: > "It can't". > > If the ov protection system built into the radio > was damaged, I hypothesize a design or manufacturing > flaw. I'd be willing to help them sort it out . . . > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: May 02, 2017
>>Also Bob, please forgive what is probably a silly question that I should think about rather than asking but if an alternator can't raise bus voltage enough to damage avionics why am I building a crowbar disconnect over voltage module? A defective regulator can raise the bus voltage high enough to damage the battery. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 10:23 PM 5/1/2017, you wrote: >I have met a couple pilots who insist on starting the engine with >the alternator off. I seem to remember that this was to protect the >alternator. I'm not sure from what. Has anyone ever seen an >alternator that has been damaged (or stressed or worn) by being on >during start? That can't happen either. Energy input to the alternator is RPM x Torque. Torque is absolutely proportional to output current. Field current rise from a de-energized state rises on the classic t=l/r time constant curve over a period of tens of milliseconds. It's a gentle increase in alternator effort with no sudden 'peaks' in mechanical or electrical stress. Those worries were never given foundation in physics. >Also Bob, please forgive what is probably a silly question that I >should think about rather than asking but if an alternator can't >raise bus voltage enough to damage avionics why am I building a >crowbar disconnect over voltage module? An alternator driven by a failed regulator has full bus voltage applied to the field. At cruise rpms, the alternator goes into a current limited runaway for voltage. If your airplane needs say 15A from the alternator in normal flight . . . then a 60A alternator will produce something on the order of 50-60 amps of EXCESS battery charge current. The voltage will begin to rise as the battery grunts the excess energy production. In tens to a couple hundred milliseconds after the failure event, the bus voltage will rise above the ov protection trip point . . . generally 32 to 33 volts in a 28v airplane. were it not for the BATTERY, the bus voltage could rise much more rapidly with an upper bound of 100 to 200 volts. In this case, the ov protection system is still expected to bring the alternator to heel in a time frame LESS than 100 milliseconds. Given that your supplier speaks of a 50 volt ov protection system, I suspect the appliance is qualified to DO-160 Category A for abnormal DC surge voltage. Quoting from DO-160 we find. Emacs! These numbers give rise to a design goal for ov protection systems to LIMIT a runaway alternator's output voltage to less than those values in the time frames cited. >Or is it just this particular avionic that cannot be damaged by an >alternator but others are vulnerable? Or something to do with it >being a 28V system instead of 14V? No. If your battery was on line at the time of the radio's failure . . . then there was no way that bus voltage would rise to levels claimed by the radio technician. If the battery were off line, then you would have experienced a trip of the ov protection system in an magnitude/time frame that was UNDER the envelope cited in DO-160. You are not the first owner/operator of an aircraft to be told that "a spike from your airplane killed your radio" . . . but in fact, if your battery was on line and you did not experience an ov trip, then there is no way that your airplane put any stress on the radio that it was NOT designed to deal with. 14 volt appliances use 1/2 the 28v qualification levels. I've always designed to Category Z. Emacs! Emacs! Note that category Z considers the extra hazard for having a very small or no battery at all. It's not hard to do . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 12:36 AM 5/2/2017, you wrote: > > > >>Also Bob, please forgive what is probably a silly question that I > should think about rather than asking but if an alternator can't > raise bus voltage enough to damage avionics why am I building a > crowbar disconnect over voltage module? > >A defective regulator can raise the bus voltage high enough to >damage the battery. A battery that is well maintained. I.e. periodically cap and load checked, will be taken out of the airplane when it no longer meets design goals for battery only endurance. Such a battery will grunt the alternator's abusive output during a runaway event for the time it takes to activate the ov protection system. In virtually EVERY ov event I have deliberately generated in 28v systems on the test bench, the bus voltage has NEVER exceeded 33 volts. The battery was not damaged and no appliances were harmed in the making of the video. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: May 02, 2017
If the OV protection is absent, a defective regulator regulating the bus voltage to 18V (for a 12V system) will eventually damage the battery, but not the avionics. So isn't it fair to characterize the battery as being there to protect the avionics, and the OV crowbar being there to protect the battery? On 2May2017, at 9:26 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: At 12:36 AM 5/2/2017, you wrote: > > > > >>Also Bob, please forgive what is probably a silly question that I should think about rather than asking but if an alternator can't raise bus voltage enough to damage avionics why am I building a crowbar disconnect over voltage module? > > A defective regulator can raise the bus voltage high enough to damage the battery. A battery that is well maintained. I.e. periodically cap and load checked, will be taken out of the airplane when it no longer meets design goals for battery only endurance. Such a battery will grunt the alternator's abusive output during a runaway event for the time it takes to activate the ov protection system. In virtually EVERY ov event I have deliberately generated in 28v systems on the test bench, the bus voltage has NEVER exceeded 33 volts. The battery was not damaged and no appliances were harmed in the making of the video. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 08:33 AM 5/2/2017, you wrote: > > >If the OV protection is absent, a defective regulator regulating the >bus voltage to 18V (for a 12V system) will eventually damage the >battery, but not the avionics. Yyeeaah . . . sort of. A battery that's in good condition will willingly and ably stand off most alternators until the ov protection system can react. If the ov protection is absent, voltage will rise with a rate dependent on battery condition and magnitude of the 'overcharge' current. We've seen cases of sustained ov on a good battery . . . and yes, it's really hard on the battery. But this event took a long time . . . perhaps hours, perhaps more than one flight to evolve to this condition. Emacs! . . . and yes, the battery was trashed. I don't recall if any other system components were damaged . . . >So isn't it fair to characterize the battery as being there to >protect the avionics, and the OV crowbar being there to protect the battery? No . . . batteries are there to start engines and back up alternators. A properly designed ov protection system will arrest a runaway alternator before the damages propagate to other components in the system . . . whether the battery is on line or not. It's a happy coincidence that a robust battery contributes to a graceful recovery from an ov event . . . but there is no expansion of a battery's primary role of offering a reversible chemical energy source. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
From: "kfav8r" <kfav8r(at)outlook.com>
Date: May 03, 2017
It's been awhile, but thought I'd post my latest results with this circuit. I finally have the engine running on my Kitfox, with the medium IVOProp and the limiter circuit. With the engine off, the prop changes pitch in both directions, mostly without premature cutoff from the limiter. I measured the current to the prop motor, with readings between about 3 Amps and 9 Amps, depending on the state of the prop pitch. With the engine (912ULS) running, at any RPM setting, the limiter cuts off prop power almost immediately. I think this is what Mike Welch described some time ago. There is a small amount of pitch adjustment with each switch engagement before current is cut off, shown by small RPM changes. I've not yet measured the current to the prop with the engine running, but will attempt that. Doug -------- Doug Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468933#468933 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Keen <john(at)johnkeen.com.au>
Date: May 04, 2017
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
This may be a naive question but is there any reason why then I can't use on e master switch to turn on both the battery and alternator? If I turn my master off and e-bus on I would then be on battery-only operati on. John Keen 0412 141 833 > On 2 May 2017, at 11:59, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectri c.com> wrote: > > At 04:48 PM 5/1/2017, you wrote: om> >> >> I had what is suspected as being an overvoltage event take out my nav rad io recently. >> >> Here's the platform data: >> Continental IO550 >> 24v electrical system >> VPX Power Distribution system >> Stock 50a alternator w/B&C LR3C-24 voltage regulator >> SD20 backup alternator w/B&C LS-1A voltage regulator >> Val Avionics NAV2KR nav radio >> >> The other day I got a circuit fault alarm on the nav radio circuit when I hit the avionics master. When I switched to the screen to get details, it s howed "short circuit". Powered cycled the circuit and the fault returned. We nt to troubleshoot once I got home and found no fault in the wiring. Sent th e radio back to Val and got a call that the overvoltage protection circuit w as blown. That it would have taken 50+ volts to cause that. Talked with the m for a while about what could have caused the OV and the only thing they co uld think of after describing how I operate was powering on the alternator A FTER engine start. >> >> I was told (and have since done) to start on battery only then after the e ngine was running, turn on the alternator. And I never turn on the avionics until the alternator is on. >> >> Then I threw the scenario to the VPX guys. They don't know what could ha ve caused an OV event to take out the nav radio (and only the nav radio. All other devices are fine). But they agreed with Val that the alternator shoul d be on during engine start. And that the VPX has overvoltage protection bu t only when the alternator is on. >> >> So I guess my question is: Have I been starting planes the wrong way for t he past 20 years? Should the alternator be on during engine start? > > It doesn't matter. Waazayyy back when, the exemplar generator > regulator had three principal components. Three relay-looking > devices were configured (1) to prevent the back-feed of battery > voltage into the generator (making it run like a motor), (2) an > output current limiter to prevent smoking the armature wires > due to overload and (3) a voltage regulator. > > > > > > Unlike the generators of yesteryear, an alternator is > inherently current limited by its magnetics. This feature, > combined with the diode array (converts stator winding > AC voltage in to battery friendly DC) means that CURRENT > LIMIT and reverse current cuttouts are not necessary. > > > > The key phrase in the foregoing narrative is CURRENT > LIMITING. Whether you're speaking of generators or alternators, > there is a finite limit to the current they can supply. > That current level is only a small fraction greater than > the nameplate rating of the machine. > > Wwwaaay back when, the avionics master switch was > perceived to be a prophylactic against 'spike generated > by starters'. In years since, DO160/Mil-STD-704 design > verification guided the appliance designer in the > simple task of making their product immune to any > voltage excursions one might expect from the ship's > DC power system. Over those same years, I've had > occasion to attach data acquisition systems to dozens > of airplanes. Like the elusive 'snipe', no matter how > close I looked or longingly I called . . . no such > critter ever emerged. > > A question I've asked dozens of appliance engineers > goes something like this: "Under what conditions of > normal or inadvertent abnormal management of the aircraft's > power system will bus voltage exceed catastrophic > failure limits for your product?" > > The real answer should be "none". In 50 years > of working with alternators, starter generators > and batteries both in the lab and in aircraft, > I've never had the slightest concerns for turning > batteries and alternators on/off in any order. > An alternator coming on after the engine is started > may deliver a small overshoot . . . usually less than > 1 volt due to regulation dynamics. But in no way > can it push the bus to levels suggested by your > radio guy. > > Another set of questions to ask: "How much current > do you need to push into a battery to elevate the > 28v bus to say, 50 volts?" The answer is: > "hundreds of amps for an EXTENDED period of time . . . > like tens of seconds." > > The next question: "How does an alternator rated > at 60 amps produce such an event?" The answer is: > "It can't". > > If the ov protection system built into the radio > was damaged, I hypothesize a design or manufacturing > flaw. I'd be willing to help them sort it out . . . > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
At 11:09 AM 5/3/2017, you wrote: > >It's been awhile, but thought I'd post my latest results with this circuit. > >I finally have the engine running on my Kitfox, with the medium >IVOProp and the limiter circuit. > >With the engine off, the prop changes pitch in both directions, >mostly without premature cutoff from the limiter. I measured the >current to the prop motor, with readings between about 3 Amps and 9 >Amps, depending on the state of the prop pitch. > >With the engine (912ULS) running, at any RPM setting, the limiter >cuts off prop power almost immediately. I think this is what Mike >Welch described some time ago. There is a small amount of pitch >adjustment with each switch engagement before current is cut off, >shown by small RPM changes. > >I've not yet measured the current to the prop with the engine >running, but will attempt that. That idea goes back a ways . . . we started talking about it early 2011 I think . . . The 0.1/0.2 paralleled resistors in the source of Q114 offers a current limit on the order of 9 amps. If the system is 'twitchy' with the engine running, I'm wondering if we're not getting come noise into the latch-loop Q103-R106-D110-Q115- D109-R105. How is the circuit constructed? Can you post some pix? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
Date: May 04, 2017
DQpXaXRoIHRoZSBlbmdpbmUgKDkxMlVMUykgcnVubmluZywgYXQgYW55IFJQTSBzZXR0aW5nLCB0 aGUgbGltaXRlciBjdXRzIG9mZiBwcm9wIHBvd2VyIGFsbW9zdCBpbW1lZGlhdGVseS4gSSB0aGlu ayB0aGlzIGlzIHdoYXQgTWlrZSBXZWxjaCBkZXNjcmliZWQgc29tZSB0aW1lIGFnby4gVGhlcmUg aXMgYSBzbWFsbCBhbW91bnQgb2YgcGl0Y2ggYWRqdXN0bWVudCB3aXRoIGVhY2ggc3dpdGNoIGVu Z2FnZW1lbnQgYmVmb3JlIGN1cnJlbnQgaXMgY3V0IG9mZiwgc2hvd24gYnkgc21hbGwgUlBNIGNo YW5nZXMuDQoNClRoZSBkZXNjcmlwdGlvbiBkZXNjcmliZWQgYWJvdmUgaXMgYWNjdXJhdGUuICBJ IG9ubHkgZm91bmQgbWludXRlIHBpdGNoIGNoYW5nZXMgd2l0aCBlYWNoIGNsaWNrLg0KDQpNaWtl IFdlbGNoDQo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 07:47 PM 5/3/2017, you wrote: >This may be a naive question but is there any reason why then I >can't use one master switch to turn on both the battery and alternator? >If I turn my master off and e-bus on I would then be on battery-only >operation. That's fine . . . in fact, that configuration is illustrated in Z-13/8 http://tinyurl.com/kgg8nva Emacs! This configuration exploits the fact that crowbar ovm systems are typically installed with the popular miniature pullable breakers. This means that when you want to do battery-only ground operations for maintenance, you can pull the alternator field breaker and REMOVE a significant (2.5 to 3 amp) drain on the battery by the field circuit of a non-rotating alternator. But if you system is all fuses or non-pullable breaker, then the progressive transfer switching of battery/alternator (al la legacy split rocker switches), is recommended. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
From: John Tipton <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com>
Date: May 04, 2017
So: those aircraft which have an array of switches together either their arr ay of CB's only really need the CB's John Sent from my iPad ----x--O--x---- > On 4 May 2017, at 06:37 pm, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroel ectric.com> wrote: > > At 07:47 PM 5/3/2017, you wrote: >> This may be a naive question but is there any reason why then I can't use one master switch to turn on both the battery and alternator? >> If I turn my master off and e-bus on I would then be on battery-only oper ation. > > That's fine . . . in fact, that configuration > is illustrated in Z-13/8 > > http://tinyurl.com/kgg8nva > > > > <10578c0e.jpg> > > This configuration exploits the fact that > crowbar ovm systems are typically installed > with the popular miniature pullable breakers. > > This means that when you want to do battery-only > ground operations for maintenance, you can pull > the alternator field breaker and REMOVE a > significant (2.5 to 3 amp) drain on the > battery by the field circuit of a non-rotating > alternator. > > But if you system is all fuses or non-pullable > breaker, then the progressive transfer switching > of battery/alternator (al la legacy split rocker > switches), is recommended. > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 01:13 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >So: those aircraft which have an array of switches together either >their array of CB's only really need the CB's > >John No . . . breakers and/or fuses are not operational devices . . . only protective with the occasional instance of being a useful maintenance adjunct. Lots of aircraft maintenance procedures will call for disabling a system by opening the circuit protection . . . but the pilot's operating handbook will (or at least should) never call for routinely operating a breaker as part of normal operations. Circuit protection clusters at the power distribution bus(ses) grouped according to power distribution design goals. On the other hand, switches may be organized for operational functionality irrespective of the power source. Emacs! Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bernie <arcticarrow(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 04, 2017
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
Some builders in an effort to reduce weight use circuit breaker switches ins tead of separate breakers and switches. Is this a bad idea? Bernie Sent from my iPhone > On May 4, 2017, at 12:13 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroele ctric.com> wrote: > > At 01:13 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >> So: those aircraft which have an array of switches together either their a rray of CB's only really need the CB's >> >> John > > No . . . breakers and/or fuses are not operational > devices . . . only protective with the occasional instance > of being a useful maintenance adjunct. > > Lots of aircraft maintenance procedures will call > for disabling a system by opening the circuit > protection . . . but the pilot's operating handbook > will (or at least should) never call for routinely > operating a breaker as part of normal operations. > > Circuit protection clusters at the power distribution > bus(ses) grouped according to power distribution > design goals. > > On the other hand, switches may be organized for > operational functionality irrespective of the > power source. > > <10e5e47d.jpg> > > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 04:25 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >Some builders in an effort to reduce weight use circuit breaker >switches instead of separate breakers and switches. Is this a bad idea? >Bernie No . . . those devices are designed for their intended purpose . . . But keep in mind. Breakers/fuses are clustered on power distribution busses. It's nice to save panel space by mounting fuseblocks off the panel . . . out of the way. Once you put a row of breaker-switches on the panel, you've committed to bring a bus=feeder fat-wire to the panel and you have two clusters of circuit protection. Further, you may find that operational grouping of switches is no longer convenient and maybe impossible. We used breaker/switches on the Bonanza/ Baron line . . . never did like those things and they eventually proved to be a pain in the a## "saving weight" by using these things is a poor reason for limiting your design choices in other matters. If it were my airplane, it would be fuse blocks for virtually every protected circuit and plain vanilla toggle switches arranged by ergonomic/operational convenience. Inexpensive, light, low cost of ownership and unimpeded design goals. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil Rosoff" <neil(at)rosoff.com>
Subject: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
Date: May 04, 2017
I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. Neil Rosoff From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bernie Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 5:25 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery) Some builders in an effort to reduce weight use circuit breaker switches instead of separate breakers and switches. Is this a bad idea? Bernie Sent from my iPhone On May 4, 2017, at 12:13 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: At 01:13 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: So: those aircraft which have an array of switches together either their array of CB's only really need the CB's John No . . . breakers and/or fuses are not operational devices . . . only protective with the occasional instance of being a useful maintenance adjunct. Lots of aircraft maintenance procedures will call for disabling a system by opening the circuit protection . . . but the pilot's operating handbook will (or at least should) never call for routinely operating a breaker as part of normal operations. Circuit protection clusters at the power distribution bus(ses) grouped according to power distribution design goals. On the other hand, switches may be organized for operational functionality irrespective of the power source. <10e5e47d.jpg> Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bernie <arcticarrow(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 04, 2017
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
Got it! Thanks, Bernie Sent from my iPhone > On May 4, 2017, at 5:36 PM, Neil Rosoff wrote: > > I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure fo r handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition sy stem breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. > > Neil Rosoff > > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelect ric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bernie > Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 5:25 PM > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery) > > Some builders in an effort to reduce weight use circuit breaker switches i nstead of separate breakers and switches. Is this a bad idea? > Bernie > > Sent from my iPhone > > On May 4, 2017, at 12:13 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroele ctric.com> wrote: > > At 01:13 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: > > So: those aircraft which have an array of switches together either their a rray of CB's only really need the CB's > > John > > > No . . . breakers and/or fuses are not operational > devices . . . only protective with the occasional instance > of being a useful maintenance adjunct. > > Lots of aircraft maintenance procedures will call > for disabling a system by opening the circuit > protection . . . but the pilot's operating handbook > will (or at least should) never call for routinely > operating a breaker as part of normal operations. > > Circuit protection clusters at the power distribution > bus(ses) grouped according to power distribution > design goals. > > On the other hand, switches may be organized for > operational functionality irrespective of the > power source. > > <10e5e47d.jpg> > > > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Subject: Smallest possible slip-ball ?
Date: May 05, 2017
Hi all, My building partner is looking for a really small footprint slip-ball for his panel. To this date he only found something 65x29 mm (2.56" x 1.14"). Anyone around has a suggestion as to a possible source for a smaller slip-ball ? Thanks in advance, -- Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Switches and Breakers
At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an >issue where the procedure for handling an >ignition system failure indication, is to pull >the ignition system breaker while the engine is >running.=C2 This is not a situation where the >manufacture and myself would not want a switch. "Failure indications" are not normal operations . . . and yes, crew are sometimes advised to pull breakers for duration of flight as response to a failure; implementing Plan-B for comfortable termination of flight. But I'm curious as to the design of any ignition system that is not effectively shut down by simply turning it off. Was the pulling of a breaker intended to 'reset' the failure or was the breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning ignition from causing more mischief even tho it was commanded OFF by normal positioning of controls? I'm aware of no electronic ignition system offered to the OBAM aviation market that would require such an action . . . setting the panel control to OFF does what the label implies. Do you recall what make/model of ignition system suggested this procedure? Was it to 'reset' the light or simply disable the system for duration of the flight? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Smallest possible slip-ball ?
From: Rob Turk <matronics(at)rtist.nl>
Date: May 05, 2017
If he has an artificial horizon in his panel then perhaps he can piggy-back a slip ball onto that? Something like this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/rcalleninclinometer.php On 5/5/2017 1:19 PM, GTH wrote: > > Hi all, > > My building partner is looking for a really small footprint slip-ball > for his panel. > > To this date he only found something 65x29 mm (2.56" x 1.14"). > > Anyone around has a suggestion as to a possible source for a smaller > slip-ball ? > > Thanks in advance, > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Smallest possible slip-ball ?
From: GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: May 05, 2017
/Le 05/05/2017 13:45, Rob Turk a crit : / > > If he has an artificial horizon in his panel then perhaps he can > piggy-back a slip ball onto that? > Something like this: > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/rcalleninclinometer.php / Rob, Thank you for responding. Interesting device to mount on the horizon. Unfortunately my buddy has no artificial horizon, and he insists on mounting his slip ball in the middle of his annunciator panel, hence the search for as small a part as possible. Thanks all the same, -- Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neil Rosoff <neil(at)rosoff.com>
Date: May 05, 2017
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
The plane is a Twin Commander with TPE 331-10s. The specific failure is t he 50% speed switch. There are 4 or 5 operational items that happened at th at time. If any one of them fail the ignition indication will remain on. Resetting the breaker will reset all of the thing that happen at 50%. Inte restingly enough this procedure was "Tribal Knowledge" on my model, the nex t model the procedure was documented in the POH. Neil Rosoff > On May 5, 2017, at 7:39 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelec tric.com> wrote: > > At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >> I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure f or handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition s ystem breaker while the engine is running.=C3=82 This is not a situation wh ere the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. > > "Failure indications" are not normal > operations . . . and yes, crew are > sometimes advised to pull breakers > for duration of flight as response to > a failure; implementing Plan-B for > comfortable termination of flight. > > But I'm curious as to the design of > any ignition system that is not effectively > shut down by simply turning it off. > Was the pulling of a breaker intended > to 'reset' the failure or was the > breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning > ignition from causing more mischief > even tho it was commanded OFF by normal > positioning of controls? > > I'm aware of no electronic ignition > system offered to the OBAM aviation > market that would require such an > action . . . setting the panel control > to OFF does what the label implies. > > Do you recall what make/model of ignition > system suggested this procedure? Was > it to 'reset' the light or simply > disable the system for duration > of the flight? > > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
From: "bobmeyers" <bobmeyers(at)meyersfamily.org>
Date: May 05, 2017
Bob, Have you ever commented on these little guys. They are resettable breakers that fit into an ATC slot. http://tinyurl.com/n4fem4d I used fuses in my first build and also in my second build. I have looked at these as a natural fit for alternator field power. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469036#469036 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: Switches and Breakers
Date: May 05, 2017
OK - I give up. I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? Thank you. Jim Parker -------- Original Message -------- Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. "Failure indications" are not normal operations . . . and yes, crew are sometimes advised to pull breakers for duration of flight as response to a failure; implementing Plan-B for comfortable termination of flight. But I'm curious as to the design of any ignition system that is not effectively shut down by simply turning it off. Was the pulling of a breaker intended to 'reset' the failure or was the breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning ignition from causing more mischief even tho it was commanded OFF by normal positioning of controls? I'm aware of no electronic ignition system offered to the OBAM aviation market that would require such an action . . . setting the panel control to OFF does what the label implies. Do you recall what make/model of ignition system suggested this procedure? Was it to 'reset' the light or simply disable the system for duration of the flight? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: Smallest possible slip-ball =?UTF-8?Q?=3F?
Date: May 05, 2017
I don't think that inclinometer necessarily HAS to be installed on the artificial horizon - it would just require two tiny screws to mount anywhere on the panel. Unlikely you'll find anything smaller. Jim Parker -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Smallest possible slip-ball ? From: GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 8:12 am To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com Le 05/05/2017 13:45, Rob Turk a crit : If he has an artificial horizon in his panel then perhaps he can piggy-back a slip ball onto that? Something like this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/rcalleninclinometer.php Rob, Thank you for responding. Interesting device to mount on the horizon. Unfortunately my buddy has no artificial horizon, and he insists on mounting his slip ball in the middle of his annunciator panel, hence the search for as small a part as possible. Thanks all the same, -- Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
From: Harley Dixon <harley(at)AgelessWings.com>
Date: May 05, 2017
I once had the same question...Had me guessing for awhile as well. *O*wner*B*uilt*A*nd *M*aintained! Harley ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On 5/5/2017 4:14 PM, jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com wrote: > > OK - I give up. > > I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used > frequently in this list. What does it mean? > > Thank you. > > Jim Parker > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 05, 2017
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
I always thought Owner Built And Maintained. On Fri, May 5, 2017 at 1:14 PM, wrote: > > OK - I give up. > > I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used > frequently in this list. What does it mean? > > Thank you. > > Jim Parker > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> > Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > > At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: > I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the > procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull > the ignition system breaker while the engine is running.=C3=82 This is n ot > a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. > "Failure indications" are not normal > operations . . . and yes, crew are > sometimes advised to pull breakers > for duration of flight as response to > a failure; implementing Plan-B for > comfortable termination of flight. > > But I'm curious as to the design of > any ignition system that is not effectively > shut down by simply turning it off. > Was the pulling of a breaker intended > to 'reset' the failure or was the > breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning > ignition from causing more mischief > even tho it was commanded OFF by normal > positioning of controls? > > I'm aware of no electronic ignition > system offered to the OBAM aviation > market that would require such an > action . . . setting the panel control > to OFF does what the label implies. > > Do you recall what make/model of ignition > system suggested this procedure? Was > it to 'reset' the light or simply > disable the system for duration > of the flight? > > > Bob . . . > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neal George <ngeorge(at)cmg.aero>
Subject: Switches and Breakers
Date: May 05, 2017
OBAM Owner Build And Maintained aircraft neal -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 3:15 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers OK - I give up. I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? Thank you. Jim Parker -------- Original Message -------- Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. "Failure indications" are not normal operations . . . and yes, crew are sometimes advised to pull breakers for duration of flight as response to a failure; implementing Plan-B for comfortable termination of flight. But I'm curious as to the design of any ignition system that is not effectively shut down by simply turning it off. Was the pulling of a breaker intended to 'reset' the failure or was the breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning ignition from causing more mischief even tho it was commanded OFF by normal positioning of controls? I'm aware of no electronic ignition system offered to the OBAM aviation market that would require such an action . . . setting the panel control to OFF does what the label implies. Do you recall what make/model of ignition system suggested this procedure? Was it to 'reset' the light or simply disable the system for duration of the flight? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Ciolino" <JohnCiolino(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Switches and Breakers
Date: May 05, 2017
Jim, It's an acronym for "Owner Built And Maintained" John -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 4:15 PM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers OK - I give up. I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? Thank you. Jim Parker -------- Original Message -------- Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. "Failure indications" are not normal operations . . . and yes, crew are sometimes advised to pull breakers for duration of flight as response to a failure; implementing Plan-B for comfortable termination of flight. But I'm curious as to the design of any ignition system that is not effectively shut down by simply turning it off. Was the pulling of a breaker intended to 'reset' the failure or was the breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning ignition from causing more mischief even tho it was commanded OFF by normal positioning of controls? I'm aware of no electronic ignition system offered to the OBAM aviation market that would require such an action . . . setting the panel control to OFF does what the label implies. Do you recall what make/model of ignition system suggested this procedure? Was it to 'reset' the light or simply disable the system for duration of the flight? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Switches and Breakers
At 04:15 PM 5/5/2017, you wrote: > > >Jim, > >It's an acronym for "Owner Built And Maintained" I coined the phrase many moons ago after having worked decades with one foot in TC aircraft, the other in 'experimental' aircraft. While 'experimental' is the official designation for giving a builder something that amounts to a permanent, unbounded ferry permit, I thought the term inadequate and misleading. While we are indeed free to EVOLVE our aircraft, the vast majority of what gets licensed every year is anything but and experiment. The OBAM aircraft industry has at least met and perhaps surpassed the quality, utility and reliability of the TC aircraft. I am loath to debase our craft with a term that does not comport with reality. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Smallest possible slip-ball ?
From: GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: May 06, 2017
Le 05/05/2017 22:15, jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com a crit : > > I don't think that inclinometer necessarily HAS to be installed on the > artificial horizon - it would just require two tiny screws to mount > anywhere on the panel. > Jim and all, Good point, thanks ! I'm passing on the info. Thanks to everyone, -- Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2017
From: speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: Battery Charger/Analyzer
FYI - government surplus battery charger/analyzer for sale at govdeals.com. You may have to register to view it. Bid starts at $50. Closes on 5-15-17. Located at Purdue U in Indiana. Here is the link - https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemID=1214&acctid=3844 Designed for rapid, automatic charging and analyzing of 11, 19, 20, and 22 cell, sintered vented type nickel- cadmium batteries. 208/230v, single phase, 50/60 Hz, 23 amperes. Approximate dimensions: 18"W x 19.75"D x 11.75"T. 150 pounds. Stan Sutterfield ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 12:17 PM 5/5/2017, you wrote: > > >Bob, > >Have you ever commented on these little guys. They are resettable >breakers that fit into an ATC slot. > >http://tinyurl.com/n4fem4d > >I used fuses in my first build and also in my second build. I have >looked at these as a natural fit for alternator field power. > > The narrative that goes with this product is interesting . . . Low profile ATO / ATC circuit breakers are single pole thermal overload type circuit protection devices. They can be used in many automotive, marine, and industrial applications. Low profile breakers are ideal when space is limited and for replacing fuses on your critical accessories. Commonly considered a type-3 thermal breaker, these can fit into most ATO / ATC fuse panels. Each breaker is color-coded by amperage according to automotive industry standards. Anyone who has conducted an FMEA on their 'critical accessories' knows that there are many more failure modes that DO NOT open the breaker than failure modes that DO open the breaker. They should also know that an open breaker probably announces a fault that will not be cured by resetting the breaker. Suitability to task upstream of a crowbar ov module is not clear. The miniature breakers common to aircraft installations are tested for ability to open multiple 'hard faults'. Here's one example of a breaker not suited to the task as discovered by a builder here on the List . . . http://tinyurl.com/mqjz523 I cannot offer a learned opinion without further evaluation and testing of this product's construction. Another point in the list of design goals says that using this breaker in the crowbar ov system encourages positioning the fuse panel in reach of crew during flight . . . another practice which I discourage. See: http://tinyurl.com/lvwnwkx Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
At 09:48 AM 5/5/2017, you wrote: >The plane is a Twin Commander with TPE 331-10s. The specific >failure is the 50% speed switch. There are 4 or 5 operational >items that happened at that time. If any one of them fail the >ignition indication will remain on. Resetting the breaker will >reset all of the thing that happen at 50%. Interestingly enough >this procedure was "Tribal Knowledge" on my model, the next model >the procedure was documented in the POH. Hmmmm . . . yeah, there are probably dozens of examples for what my bosses would have called a 'work around' for relatively minor deficiencies in system FEMA. The condition you cited was probably not discovered before the system was holy-watered for production. As a general rule on new designs, we were chartered not to rely on crew management of input power by cycling power to a bus or pulling a breaker. To be sure, there have been instances where the practice did find its way into the cockpit but the work around could only be applied in low pucker-factor situations. Finding and operating the right breaker in a sea of little black knobs with lights flashing, bells going off or captain giving tense orders was problematic at best. We just didn't do it. On our airplanes, such a condition is EASY to fix . . . on airplanes with TCs . . . not so much. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 06, 2017
Speaking of some circuit breakers that are not suitable to the task, I can vouch for that. I purchased a Schurter 3 amp circuit breaker, part number 4400.0010 to protect an over-voltage relay circuit. Before installing it in the airplane, I tried it out on the workbench. Instead of tripping when the crowbar circuit shorted out, the breaker continued to conduct and smoked. Although the smoke was not enough to be a hazard, it could be enough to distract a pilot and contribute to an incident. I have a whole lot more confidence in fuses. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469063#469063 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 12:31 PM 5/6/2017, you wrote: > >Speaking of some circuit breakers that are not suitable to the task, >I can vouch for that. I purchased a Schurter 3 amp circuit breaker, >part number >4400.0010 to protect an over-voltage relay circuit. Before >installing it in the airplane, I tried it out on the >workbench. Instead of tripping when the crowbar circuit shorted >out, the breaker continued to conduct and smoked. Although the >smoke was not enough to be a hazard, it could be enough to distract >a pilot and contribute to an incident. > I have a whole lot more confidence in fuses. To be sure, fuses have a certain finality in the physics of their operation. Breakers can too . . . Some of you graybeards here on the List may recall some terse discussions about the various breaker options . . . especially when used with crowbar ov protection. Some off-hand numbers were offered a dire predictions for failure-to-perform under extreme fault conditions. I did some bench demonstrations that measured much more benign conditions than 'predicted' along with citations from a military test protocol by which our favorite breakers are judged. Emacs! These guys are tested under conditions far more severe than those impressed upon it with a crowbar ov protection system. Beech agreed with this assessment too . . . a few years back. I very nearly got crowbar ov protection onto the Beech Lightning, a single engine turboprop. Program go canceled about the same time Burt Rutan left the employ of Beech as VP of Engineering. He got the airplane as part of his severance pay. I understand he wanted the engine and instruments. Emacs! I last saw the 'bones' of this project sitting outside one of Burt's hangars on Mojave Airport. I had left the employ of Electro-Mech by that time. I was no longer involved in new alternator controller designs for TC aircraft. I didn't get a chance to put crowbar ov protection into airplanes until the series of LR controllers at B&C. Two examples of which went around the world with Dick and Jeana . . . and now flys on thousands of both TC and OBAM aircraft. But in any case, demands placed on the breaker used with crowbar ov protection are beyond the capability of some products. Fortunately, the commercial clone of the military qualified miniature breakers are quite suited to task. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
At 12:31 PM 5/6/2017, you wrote: > >Speaking of some circuit breakers that are not suitable to the task, >I can vouch for that. I purchased a Schurter 3 amp circuit breaker, >part number >4400.0010 to protect an over-voltage relay circuit. Before >installing it in the airplane, I tried it out on the >workbench. Instead of tripping when the crowbar circuit shorted >out, the breaker continued to conduct and smoked. Was it you who sent me this breaker? Emacs! I think it's a Schurter breaker. Uses a thin metal 'heater' to warm a bi-metal trip 'thermostat'. High current faults would burn the strip before the thermostat could sense and react. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Overvoltage event (non-lithium battery)
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 06, 2017
It could have been me. My memory fades as I get older. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469070#469070 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Efraim Otero <efraim.otero(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 06, 2017
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
Neal: Wouldn't that be OBAMA? Sent from my iPhone > On May 5, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Neal George wrote: > > > OBAM > Owner Build And Maintained aircraft > > neal > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com > Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 3:15 PM > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers > > > OK - I give up. > > I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? > > Thank you. > > Jim Parker > > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> > Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > > At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: > I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. > "Failure indications" are not normal > operations . . . and yes, crew are > sometimes advised to pull breakers > for duration of flight as response to > a failure; implementing Plan-B for > comfortable termination of flight. > > But I'm curious as to the design of > any ignition system that is not effectively > shut down by simply turning it off. > Was the pulling of a breaker intended > to 'reset' the failure or was the > breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning > ignition from causing more mischief > even tho it was commanded OFF by normal > positioning of controls? > > I'm aware of no electronic ignition > system offered to the OBAM aviation > market that would require such an > action . . . setting the panel control > to OFF does what the label implies. > > Do you recall what make/model of ignition > system suggested this procedure? Was > it to 'reset' the light or simply > disable the system for duration > of the flight? > > > > Bob . . . > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Switches and Breakers
Date: May 06, 2017
> Wouldn't that be OBAMA? Chirp...chirp...chirp...no response to your joke for some reason Neal... Ouch...folks are still sore I guess... : ) < ------ CJII (Cyber Joke Indicator Icon) .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Efraim Otero Sent: Saturday, May 6, 2017 9:30 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers --> Neal: Wouldn't that be OBAMA? Sent from my iPhone > On May 5, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Neal George wrote: > > --> > > OBAM > Owner Build And Maintained aircraft > > neal > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com > Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 3:15 PM > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers > > > OK - I give up. > > I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? > > Thank you. > > Jim Parker > > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> > Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > > At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: > I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. > "Failure indications" are not normal > operations . . . and yes, crew are > sometimes advised to pull breakers > for duration of flight as response to > a failure; implementing Plan-B for > comfortable termination of flight. > > But I'm curious as to the design of > any ignition system that is not effectively > shut down by simply turning it off. > Was the pulling of a breaker intended > to 'reset' the failure or was the > breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning > ignition from causing more mischief > even tho it was commanded OFF by normal > positioning of controls? > > I'm aware of no electronic ignition > system offered to the OBAM aviation > market that would require such an > action . . . setting the panel control > to OFF does what the label implies. > > Do you recall what make/model of ignition > system suggested this procedure? Was > it to 'reset' the light or simply > disable the system for duration > of the flight? > > > > Bob . . . > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
From: Robert Reed <robertr237(at)att.net>
Date: May 07, 2017
Only if they were intended to Always Crash and Burn. Bob Reed Sent from my iPhone > On May 6, 2017, at 11:29 PM, Efraim Otero wrote: > > > Neal: > Wouldn't that be > OBAMA? > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 5, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Neal George wrote: >> >> >> OBAM >> Owner Build And Maintained aircraft >> >> neal >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com >> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 3:15 PM >> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers >> >> >> OK - I give up. >> >> I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? >> >> Thank you. >> >> Jim Parker >> >> >> >> -------- Original Message -------- >> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers >> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> >> Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am >> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >> >> At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >> I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. >> "Failure indications" are not normal >> operations . . . and yes, crew are >> sometimes advised to pull breakers >> for duration of flight as response to >> a failure; implementing Plan-B for >> comfortable termination of flight. >> >> But I'm curious as to the design of >> any ignition system that is not effectively >> shut down by simply turning it off. >> Was the pulling of a breaker intended >> to 'reset' the failure or was the >> breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning >> ignition from causing more mischief >> even tho it was commanded OFF by normal >> positioning of controls? >> >> I'm aware of no electronic ignition >> system offered to the OBAM aviation >> market that would require such an >> action . . . setting the panel control >> to OFF does what the label implies. >> >> Do you recall what make/model of ignition >> system suggested this procedure? Was >> it to 'reset' the light or simply >> disable the system for duration >> of the flight? >> >> >> >> Bob . . . >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neal George <neal.george(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 07, 2017
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
Oh hell! Words escape me. Mea culpa Neal George Sent from my iPhone On May 7, 2017, at 7:28 AM, Robert Reed wrote: Only if they were intended to Always Crash and Burn. Bob Reed Sent from my iPhone > On May 6, 2017, at 11:29 PM, Efraim Otero wrote: > > > Neal: > Wouldn't that be > OBAMA? > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 5, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Neal George wrote: >> >> >> OBAM >> Owner Build And Maintained aircraft >> >> neal >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com >> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 3:15 PM >> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers >> >> >> OK - I give up. >> >> I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? >> >> Thank you. >> >> Jim Parker >> >> >> >> -------- Original Message -------- >> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers >> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> >> Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am >> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >> >> At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >> I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. >> "Failure indications" are not normal >> operations . . . and yes, crew are >> sometimes advised to pull breakers >> for duration of flight as response to >> a failure; implementing Plan-B for >> comfortable termination of flight. >> >> But I'm curious as to the design of >> any ignition system that is not effectively >> shut down by simply turning it off. >> Was the pulling of a breaker intended >> to 'reset' the failure or was the >> breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning >> ignition from causing more mischief >> even tho it was commanded OFF by normal >> positioning of controls? >> >> I'm aware of no electronic ignition >> system offered to the OBAM aviation >> market that would require such an >> action . . . setting the panel control >> to OFF does what the label implies. >> >> Do you recall what make/model of ignition >> system suggested this procedure? Was >> it to 'reset' the light or simply >> disable the system for duration >> of the flight? >> >> >> >> Bob . . . >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Switches and Breakers
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 07, 2017
1st, politics are not the subject of this list. 2nd, do you really want to go there, Vladimir? On 5/7/2017 7:28 AM, Robert Reed wrote: > > Only if they were intended to Always Crash and Burn. > > Bob Reed > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 6, 2017, at 11:29 PM, Efraim Otero wrote: >> >> >> Neal: >> Wouldn't that be >> OBAMA? >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On May 5, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Neal George wrote: >>> >>> >>> OBAM >>> Owner Build And Maintained aircraft >>> >>> neal >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com >>> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 3:15 PM >>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers >>> >>> >>> OK - I give up. >>> >>> I cannot find the meaning of "OBAM" anywhere, but I see it used frequently in this list. What does it mean? >>> >>> Thank you. >>> >>> Jim Parker >>> >>> >>> >>> -------- Original Message -------- >>> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and Breakers >>> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> >>> Date: Fri, May 05, 2017 6:39 am >>> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >>> >>> At 08:36 PM 5/4/2017, you wrote: >>> I agree in spirit, BUT I recently ran into an issue where the procedure for handling an ignition system failure indication, is to pull the ignition system breaker while the engine is running. This is not a situation where the manufacture and myself would not want a switch. >>> "Failure indications" are not normal >>> operations . . . and yes, crew are >>> sometimes advised to pull breakers >>> for duration of flight as response to >>> a failure; implementing Plan-B for >>> comfortable termination of flight. >>> >>> But I'm curious as to the design of >>> any ignition system that is not effectively >>> shut down by simply turning it off. >>> Was the pulling of a breaker intended >>> to 'reset' the failure or was the >>> breaker pulled to prevent a malfunctioning >>> ignition from causing more mischief >>> even tho it was commanded OFF by normal >>> positioning of controls? >>> >>> I'm aware of no electronic ignition >>> system offered to the OBAM aviation >>> market that would require such an >>> action . . . setting the panel control >>> to OFF does what the label implies. >>> >>> Do you recall what make/model of ignition >>> system suggested this procedure? Was >>> it to 'reset' the light or simply >>> disable the system for duration >>> of the flight? >>> >>> >>> >>> Bob . . . >>> >>> --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Today's trivia dump . . .
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 07, 2017
Just to close the loop on this thread... We exchanged a few posts a couple of weeks ago about the feasibility of making a DIY spot welder for attaching battery tabs. I've been fiddling with the idea since then and have come to the conclusion that there's little point in trying to beat the Chinese at their own game. With the components, an enclosure, some heavy gauge wire and something rigid and durable (tungsten TIG rod?) as welding tips, my bill of materials ended up nearly as costly as the imported spot welder that Bob found on eBay. The only way it would make sense to build is if our time is worthless, or as a hobby project. Maybe I'll pursue the latter when most of my workbench isn't in storage. For now, I'm setting it aside. Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469086#469086 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Today's trivia dump . . .
At 12:12 PM 5/7/2017, you wrote: > >Just to close the loop on this thread... > >We exchanged a few posts a couple of weeks ago about the feasibility >of making a DIY spot welder for attaching battery tabs. I've been >fiddling with the idea since then and have come to the conclusion >that there's little point in trying to beat the Chinese at their own game. i CA Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Today's trivia dump . . .
At 12:12 PM 5/7/2017, you wrote: > >Just to close the loop on this thread... > >We exchanged a few posts a couple of weeks ago about the feasibility >of making a DIY spot welder for attaching battery tabs. I've been >fiddling with the idea since then and have come to the conclusion >that there's little point in trying to beat the Chinese at their own game. Thanks for mulling the question over Eric. I concur. Youtube has several project videos on salvaging power transformers out of microwaves and rewinding a 100A secondary good for a few volts. But current control and timing was another matter. I may ask for a battery welder for Father's Day or something . . . not that I need another project right now! Dr. Dee and I are working with the local volunteer ambulance service. She got her EMT ticket a few weeks ago, I should finish my tests next weekend. I'm just driving right now. We were invited to join the Gyp Hills Prescribed Burn Association. We're going to have our own fire truck! We had two humongous wild fires over the past two years . . . largest in Kansas history. Could have been contained at a fraction of the damage with more diligence to prescribed burns combined with knowledgeable/willing folks to operate equipment. It's interesting to watch the expressions on the faces of city slickers when we tell them that some days we go out to fight fires . . . other days we go out to set fires! Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Z-17 and over voltage warning lamp
Date: May 07, 2017
I've wired my airplane based on the Z-17 diagram, which uses no master contactor, a PM alternator and crowbar OV adapted for that alternator. Notably, Z-17 omits the panel mounted OV warning lamp which is activated by the OV relay being tripped- the lamp is wired to the normally closed contact on the relay, as shown on the diagram which came with the alternator. Today I applied power to the panel for the first time, and while no spoke escaped, I now know why Z-17 omits this lamp- without a master contactor, this lamp is illuminated constantly when the master switch is off and only goes off when power is applied to the alternator control relay. I would like to use this lamp on the panel, but the only fix I can noodle out is to run the lamp wire through a switch, probably using a 3-pole for the master switch (which now controls both battery and alternator on one switch.) Has anyone else tackled this with a different solution? Jeff Point Milwaukee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Z-17 and over voltage warning lamp
At 04:57 PM 5/7/2017, you wrote: > >I've wired my airplane based on the Z-17 diagram, which uses no >master contactor, a PM alternator and crowbar OV adapted for that alternator. >Notably, Z-17 omits the panel mounted OV warning lamp which is >activated by the OV relay being tripped- the lamp is wired to the >normally closed contact on the relay, as shown on the diagram which >came with the alternator. > >Today I applied power to the panel for the first time, and while no >spoke escaped, I now know why Z-17 omits this lamp- without a master >contactor, this lamp is illuminated constantly when the master >switch is off and only goes off when power is applied to the >alternator control relay. I would like to use this lamp on the >panel, but the only fix I can noodle out is to run the lamp wire >through a switch, probably using a 3-pole for the master switch >(which now controls both battery and alternator on one switch.) > >Has anyone else tackled this with a different solution? Z-17 has a recommended solution. Active notification of low voltage in the form of sensor and light. Eric Jones has a LV Warn product http://tinyurl.com/yj7g5jh I'll have a replacement for the discontinued AEC9005 product later this year. You can built your own from details on my website. http://tinyurl.com/6mvso29 No doubt there are other options out there. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Z-17 and over voltage warning lamp
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 07, 2017
Perhaps a LED (with series resistor) in parallel with the 5 amp circuit breaker. > Has anyone else tackled this with a different solution? -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469093#469093 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Home" <rossmickey(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Run Away Elevator Trim
Date: May 08, 2017
I would appreciate any ideas on why this happened so I can focus my investigation. After a soggy winter, Sunday was a beautiful day for a cross country over southern Oregon. I was 35 min out of Eugene and turned my autopilot off as I was approaching a mountain ridge and with 25 knot winds, I wanted to be ready for any mountain wave activity. As I turned the autopilot off, I noticed that it was indicating that I needed to trim nose down. When the autopilot went offline, I went to set the electric elevator trim and nothing happened, the indicator was reading full nose up and I was having to exert significant forward stick pressure to keep level. The aileron trim indictor was reading full right but looking at the tab on my left wing, it did not appear to be in this position but when I tried to move it, it also failed to respond. After an uncomfortable flight back to Eugene with full up elevator trim, I shut it down and did a visual inspection then turned the power back on. The trim worked perfectly and all indicators were reading normal. Now I have to figure out what caused the malfunction. Here is my setup. Infinity grip with 4 way trim on a hat switch on top center, flap momentary switch on top right and comm flip flop momentary on the top left. Aileron and elevator electric trim run by Mac servos through Matronic's Mk III governors with Mac indictors on the panel. Wiring for the Mac is found here <http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf> . Wiring for the governor is here . What I have done. During the cursory visual inspection, I found that the nut holding the comm flip flop switch to the left of the hat switch had fallen off causing it to be loose in the grip. I never use this switch so I hadn't noticed it before. I wiggled this while running the trims through the hat switch to see if I could reproduce the fault and couldn't. I replaced the nut then took the Infinity grip apart. Everything looked normal. I will now start digging into the guts of the wiring and would appreciate any suggestions on what the possible cause was and therefore where I can start my investigation. How could the trim run to the full out position and then not respond to the hat switch? Why would the aileron trim also not work and show an incorrect reading? Could the comm flip flop switch rear connectors have made contact with the hat switch rear connectors in a way that bypassed the hat switch rendering it inoperable even though I could not get it to do so by wiggling it? Thanks, Ross Mickey RV6A N9PT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Run Away Elevator Trim
Date: May 08, 2017
Is the hat switch the only trim switch in the airplane? Rene' 801-721-6080 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ross Home Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 9:18 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Run Away Elevator Trim I would appreciate any ideas on why this happened so I can focus my investigation. After a soggy winter, Sunday was a beautiful day for a cross country over southern Oregon. I was 35 min out of Eugene and turned my autopilot off as I was approaching a mountain ridge and with 25 knot winds, I wanted to be ready for any mountain wave activity. As I turned the autopilot off, I noticed that it was indicating that I needed to trim nose down. When the autopilot went offline, I went to set the electric elevator trim and nothing happened, the indicator was reading full nose up and I was having to exert significant forward stick pressure to keep level. The aileron trim indictor was reading full right but looking at the tab on my left wing, it did not appear to be in this position but when I tried to move it, it also failed to respond. After an uncomfortable flight back to Eugene with full up elevator trim, I shut it down and did a visual inspection then turned the power back on. The trim worked perfectly and all indicators were reading normal. Now I have to figure out what caused the malfunction. Here is my setup. Infinity grip with 4 way trim on a hat switch on top center, flap momentary switch on top right and comm flip flop momentary on the top left. Aileron and elevator electric trim run by Mac servos through Matronic's Mk III governors with Mac indictors on the panel. Wiring for the Mac is found here <http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf> . Wiring for the governor is here . What I have done. During the cursory visual inspection, I found that the nut holding the comm flip flop switch to the left of the hat switch had fallen off causing it to be loose in the grip. I never use this switch so I hadn't noticed it before. I wiggled this while running the trims through the hat switch to see if I could reproduce the fault and couldn't. I replaced the nut then took the Infinity grip apart. Everything looked normal. I will now start digging into the guts of the wiring and would appreciate any suggestions on what the possible cause was and therefore where I can start my investigation. How could the trim run to the full out position and then not respond to the hat switch? Why would the aileron trim also not work and show an incorrect reading? Could the comm flip flop switch rear connectors have made contact with the hat switch rear connectors in a way that bypassed the hat switch rendering it inoperable even though I could not get it to do so by wiggling it? Thanks, Ross Mickey RV6A N9PT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Home" <rossmickey(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Run Away Elevator Trim
Date: May 08, 2017
Yes. From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 8:38 AM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Run Away Elevator Trim Is the hat switch the only trim switch in the airplane? Rene' 801-721-6080 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ross Home Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 9:18 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Run Away Elevator Trim I would appreciate any ideas on why this happened so I can focus my investigation. After a soggy winter, Sunday was a beautiful day for a cross country over southern Oregon. I was 35 min out of Eugene and turned my autopilot off as I was approaching a mountain ridge and with 25 knot winds, I wanted to be ready for any mountain wave activity. As I turned the autopilot off, I noticed that it was indicating that I needed to trim nose down. When the autopilot went offline, I went to set the electric elevator trim and nothing happened, the indicator was reading full nose up and I was having to exert significant forward stick pressure to keep level. The aileron trim indictor was reading full right but looking at the tab on my left wing, it did not appear to be in this position but when I tried to move it, it also failed to respond. After an uncomfortable flight back to Eugene with full up elevator trim, I shut it down and did a visual inspection then turned the power back on. The trim worked perfectly and all indicators were reading normal. Now I have to figure out what caused the malfunction. Here is my setup. Infinity grip with 4 way trim on a hat switch on top center, flap momentary switch on top right and comm flip flop momentary on the top left. Aileron and elevator electric trim run by Mac servos through Matronic's Mk III governors with Mac indictors on the panel. Wiring for the Mac is found here <http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf> . Wiring for the governor is here . What I have done. During the cursory visual inspection, I found that the nut holding the comm flip flop switch to the left of the hat switch had fallen off causing it to be loose in the grip. I never use this switch so I hadn't noticed it before. I wiggled this while running the trims through the hat switch to see if I could reproduce the fault and couldn't. I replaced the nut then took the Infinity grip apart. Everything looked normal. I will now start digging into the guts of the wiring and would appreciate any suggestions on what the possible cause was and therefore where I can start my investigation. How could the trim run to the full out position and then not respond to the hat switch? Why would the aileron trim also not work and show an incorrect reading? Could the comm flip flop switch rear connectors have made contact with the hat switch rear connectors in a way that bypassed the hat switch rendering it inoperable even though I could not get it to do so by wiggling it? Thanks, Ross Mickey RV6A N9PT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 08, 2017
Subject: Run Away Elevator Trim
Soggy winter... Soggy Mac PC board? If the switch on the infinity grip drops down can the ground touch the solder in connectors of the trim switches? Any chafing of wires within the grip (I have to be super careful with all of the wires inside my grip. Thanks, Bill Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Trivia dump of the day
Saw this product on ebay at: http://tinyurl.com/ls8ry73 Emacs! Ordered in a batch. The price is certainly right. Unlike many turn-key indicators of yesteryear, these are nice and bright. Further, they have two leds back to back so they light up with either polarity of DC voltage . . . which means they work on 12 volts AC as well. The only 'downside' are those mash-a-wire screw connectors . . . used 'barefoot', this style connection offers no vibration support for the lead wire. Yet another use for a dab of E6000? They 'come alive' at 3 volts applied with a draw of only 1 milliamp. Would be useful as an indicator driven by the logic output of a microprocessor. At 14v they draw about 11 milliamps. Just for grins, I put one on the bench supply at 29v. It draws 25 milliamps and is expectedly, quite bright. I'll let it 'cock' for awhile. I expect the fixture to get noticeably warm in free air . . . it would, no doubt run cooler if mounted to a panel. Poked around for a few minutes to see if anyone offered this product in other colors. No joy. I did find a bunch of LED products in metal housings. Will let you know if they 'cook off' in a 28v system. I'm betting they'll be just fine for warning light service (intermittent duty) Watch this space . . . My office and shops are migrating to all LED as new lights are installed and old fluorescent fixtures are replaced. Check out the array of surface mount, flat panel led products too. I've used 12" square and 24" square fixtures in the house. My contractor had me build hardwood frames to install 5 fixtures in a local office remodel. Reasonably priced, lots of light. Even tho the flat panel lights are arrays of hundreds of LED junctions, you cannot see individual lamps through the translucent overlay. Very pleasing effect. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Z-17 and over voltage warning lamp
At 09:02 PM 5/7/2017, you wrote: > >Perhaps a LED (with series resistor) in parallel with the 5 amp >circuit breaker. Excellent thought . . . only one concern . . . and it's a minor one. Current demand by any light connected across the breaker should be LESS than the dropout current for the relay. I have some exemplar S704 plastic relays here on which I've measured a dropout current on the order of 0.04 amps. This might be a good application for the indicator lamp I just featured on my 'trivia dump'. It draws 0.012 amps at 12v. If you'd like to try this lamp, shoot me an address and I'll mail you one. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Home" <rossmickey(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Run Away Elevator Trim
Date: May 08, 2017
The plane is hangered and the fact that the trim worked at the start of the flight and after leads me to believe it isn=99t that. No wire chaffing on the Infinity. I also take great care in installing it. As to the last question, IF the solder connections can meet, what connections would have to be made to cause my fault since the comm flip flop is momentary and always in the off position? Ross From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Hunter Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 8:55 AM Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Run Away Elevator Trim Soggy winter... Soggy Mac PC board? If the switch on the infinity grip drops down can the ground touch the solder in connectors of the trim switches? Any chafing of wires within the grip (I have to be super careful with all of the wires inside my grip. Thanks, Bill Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 08, 2017
Subject: Re: Run Away Elevator Trim
On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 10:37 AM, Rene wrote: > Is the hat switch the only trim switch in the airplane? > > > Rene' > > 801-721-6080 <(801)%20721-6080> > > > *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Ross Home > *Sent:* Monday, May 08, 2017 9:18 AM > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Run Away Elevator Trim > > > I would appreciate any ideas on why this happened so I can focus my > investigation. > > > After a soggy winter, Sunday was a beautiful day for a cross country over > southern Oregon. I was 35 min out of Eugene and turned my autopilot off as > I was approaching a mountain ridge and with 25 knot winds, I wanted to be > ready for any mountain wave activity. As I turned the autopilot off, I > noticed that it was indicating that I needed to trim nose down. When the > autopilot went offline, I went to set the electric elevator trim and > nothing happened, the indicator was reading full nose up and I was having > to exert significant forward stick pressure to keep level. The aileron > trim indictor was reading full right but looking at the tab on my left > wing, it did not appear to be in this position but when I tried to move i t, > it also failed to respond. After an uncomfortable flight back to Eugene > with full up elevator trim, I shut it down and did a visual inspection th en > turned the power back on. The trim worked perfectly and all indicators > were reading normal. Now I have to figure out what caused the malfunctio n. > > > Here is my setup. > > > Infinity grip with 4 way trim on a hat switch on top center, flap > momentary switch on top right and comm flip flop momentary on the top lef t. > > > Aileron and elevator electric trim run by Mac servos through Matronic =99s Mk > III governors with Mac indictors on the panel. Wiring for the Mac is foun d > here <http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf>. > Wiring for the governor is here > . > > > What I have done. > > > During the cursory visual inspection, I found that the nut holding the > comm flip flop switch to the left of the hat switch had fallen off causin g > it to be loose in the grip. I never use this switch so I hadn=99t noticed it > before. I wiggled this while running the trims through the hat switch to > see if I could reproduce the fault and couldn=99t. I replaced the n ut then > took the Infinity grip apart. Everything looked normal. > > > I will now start digging into the guts of the wiring and would appreciate > any suggestions on what the possible cause was and therefore where I can > start my investigation. How could the trim run to the full out position > and then not respond to the hat switch? Why would the aileron trim also > not work and show an incorrect reading? Could the comm flip flop switch > rear connectors have made contact with the hat switch rear connectors in a > way that bypassed the hat switch rendering it inoperable even though I > could not get it to do so by wiggling it? > > > Thanks, > > > Ross Mickey > > RV6A N9PT > > > What's inside the governor box? If there's any kind of processor, it coul d 'lock up', like computers, phones, etc. Power cycling (rebooting) could easily clear many fault modes. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Home" <rossmickey(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Run Away Elevator Trim
Date: May 08, 2017
You asked. What's inside the governor box? If there's any kind of processor, it could 'lock up', like computers, phones, etc. Power cycling (rebooting) could easily clear many fault modes. IDK. Matt would be able to answer that. Ross From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 9:31 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Run Away Elevator Trim On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 10:37 AM, Rene > wrote: Is the hat switch the only trim switch in the airplane? Rene' 801-721-6080 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Ross Home Sent: Monday, May 08, 2017 9:18 AM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Run Away Elevator Trim I would appreciate any ideas on why this happened so I can focus my investigation. After a soggy winter, Sunday was a beautiful day for a cross country over southern Oregon. I was 35 min out of Eugene and turned my autopilot off as I was approaching a mountain ridge and with 25 knot winds, I wanted to be ready for any mountain wave activity. As I turned the autopilot off, I noticed that it was indicating that I needed to trim nose down. When the autopilot went offline, I went to set the electric elevator trim and nothing happened, the indicator was reading full nose up and I was having to exert significant forward stick pressure to keep level. The aileron trim indictor was reading full right but looking at the tab on my left wing, it did not appear to be in this position but when I tried to move it, it also failed to respond. After an uncomfortable flight back to Eugene with full up elevator trim, I shut it down and did a visual inspection then turned the power back on. The trim worked perfectly and all indicators were reading normal. Now I have to figure out what caused the malfunction. Here is my setup. Infinity grip with 4 way trim on a hat switch on top center, flap momentary switch on top right and comm flip flop momentary on the top left. Aileron and elevator electric trim run by Mac servos through Matronic=99s Mk III governors with Mac indictors on the panel. Wiring for the Mac is found here <http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/instructionsT2andT3.pdf> . Wiring for the governor is here . What I have done. During the cursory visual inspection, I found that the nut holding the comm flip flop switch to the left of the hat switch had fallen off causing it to be loose in the grip. I never use this switch so I hadn=99t noticed it before. I wiggled this while running the trims through the hat switch to see if I could reproduce the fault and couldn=99t. I replaced the nut then took the Infinity grip apart. Everything looked normal. I will now start digging into the guts of the wiring and would appreciate any suggestions on what the possible cause was and therefore where I can start my investigation. How could the trim run to the full out position and then not respond to the hat switch? Why would the aileron trim also not work and show an incorrect reading? Could the comm flip flop switch rear connectors have made contact with the hat switch rear connectors in a way that bypassed the hat switch rendering it inoperable even though I could not get it to do so by wiggling it? Thanks, Ross Mickey RV6A N9PT What's inside the governor box? If there's any kind of processor, it could 'lock up', like computers, phones, etc. Power cycling (rebooting) could easily clear many fault modes. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2017
From: Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Trivia dump of the day
Bob, Dimensions of LED indicators? Mounting hole dia:Bezel dia: Height overall: and speaking of fluorescent to LED conversion...=C2- I converted one of my shop lights, an 8-ft, 4-bulb fixture, to LED around C hristmas time.=C2- The LED bulbs are a little bit brighter than fluoresce nts, produce full brilliance instantly in cold weather, no 60-cycle hum, an d no RF interference on my FM radio in the shop.=C2- They draw 1/3 the cu rrent and, in theory, should outlive me.=C2- The fixture must be re-wired to take the ballast out of the circuit, but that is easy. I bought 4 bulbs on Amazon for about $120 (back in December).=C2- Very pl ease w/ result. -Jeff Luckey On Monday, May 8, 2017 9:19 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" @aeroelectric.com> wrote: Saw this product on ebay at: http://tinyurl.com/ls8ry73 Ordered in a batch. The price is certainly right. Unlike many turn-key indicators of yesteryear, these are nice and bright. Further, they have two leds back to back so they light up with either polarity of DC voltage =C2-. . . which means they work on 12 volts AC as well. The only 'downside' are those mash-a-wire screw connectors . . . used 'barefoot', this style connection offers no vibration support for the lead wire. Yet another use for a dab of E6000? They 'come alive' at 3 volts applied with a draw of only 1 milliamp. Would be useful as an indicator driven by the logic output of a microprocessor. At 14v they draw about 11 milliamps. Just for grins, I put one on the bench supply at 29v. It draws 25 milliamps and is expectedly, quite bright.=C2- I'll let it 'cock' for awhile. I expect the fixture to get noticeably warm in free air . . . it would, no doubt run cooler if mounted to a panel. Poked around for a few minutes to see if anyone offered this product in other colors. No joy. I did find a bunch of LED products in metal housings. Will let you know if they 'cook off' in a 28v system.=C2- I'm betting they'll be just fine for warning light service (intermittent duty) Watch this space . . . My office and shops are migrating to all LED as new lights are installed and old fluorescent fixtures are replaced. Check out the array of surface mount, flat panel led products too. I've used 12" square and 24" square fixtures in the house. My contractor had me build hardwood frames to install 5 fixtures in a local office remodel. Reasonably priced, lots of light. Even tho the flat panel lights are arrays of hundreds of LED junctions, you cannot see individual lamps through the translucent overlay. Very pleasing effect. =C2- Bob . . . /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wBDAAEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/2wBDAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/wAARCAErAZADASIA AhEBAxEB/8QAHwAAAQUBAQEBAQEAAAAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtRAAAgEDAwIEAwUFBAQA AAF9AQIDAAQRBRIhMUEGE1FhByJxFDKBkaEII0KxwRVS0fAkM2JyggkKFhcYGRolJicoKSo0NTY3 ODk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlqc3R1dnd4eXqDhIWGh4iJipKTlJWWl5iZmqKjpKWm p6ipqrKztLW2t7i5usLDxMXGx8jJytLT1NXW19jZ2uHi4+Tl5ufo6erx8vP09fb3+Pn6/8QAHwEA AwEBAQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtREAAgECBAQDBAcFBAQAAQJ3AAECAxEEBSEx BhJBUQdhcRMiMoEIFEKRobHBCSMzUvAVYnLRChYkNOEl8RcYGRomJygpKjU2Nzg5OkNERUZHSElK U1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6goOEhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3 uLm6wsPExcbHyMnK0tPU1dbX2Nna4uPk5ebn6Onq8vP09fb3+Pn6/9oADAMBAAIRAxEAPwD+/iii igAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKACisu81nTLBil1eR 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Date: May 08, 2017
From: Eric Page <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Trivia dump of the day
Those are nice switches indeed. =C2-There's a whole universe of similar p roducts on eBay and AliExpress. =C2-One of the leading manufacturers is a company called ONPOW. =C2-They offer many styles, diameters, switch acti ons, illumination colors (including RGB) and even mounting panels and boxes . =C2-See:=C2-http://onpow.com/en/ eBay's selection is limited, but AliExpress has many of their products for sale. =C2-Search: "onpow". Eric On Monday, May 8, 2017 9:29 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" @aeroelectric.com> wrote: Saw this product on ebay at: http://tinyurl.com/ls8ry73 Ordered in a batch. The price is certainly right. Unlike many turn-key indicators of yesteryear, these are nice and bright. Further, they have two leds back to back so they light up with either polarity of DC voltage =C2-. . . which means they work on 12 volts AC as well. The only 'downside' are those mash-a-wire screw connectors . . . used 'barefoot', this style connection offers no vibration support for the lead wire. Yet another use for a dab of E6000? They 'come alive' at 3 volts applied with a draw of only 1 milliamp. Would be useful as an indicator driven by the logic output of a microprocessor. At 14v they draw about 11 milliamps. Just for grins, I put one on the bench supply at 29v. It draws 25 milliamps and is expectedly, quite bright.=C2- I'll let it 'cock' for awhile. I expect the fixture to get noticeably warm in free air . . . it would, no doubt run cooler if mounted to a panel. Poked around for a few minutes to see if anyone offered this product in other colors. No joy. I did find a bunch of LED products in metal housings. Will let you know if they 'cook off' in a 28v system.=C2- I'm betting they'll be just fine for warning light service (intermittent duty) Watch this space . . . My office and shops are migrating to all LED as new lights are installed and old fluorescent fixtures are replaced. Check out the array of surface mount, flat panel led products too. I've used 12" square and 24" square fixtures in the house. My contractor had me build hardwood frames to install 5 fixtures in a local office remodel. Reasonably priced, lots of light. Even tho the flat panel lights are arrays of hundreds of LED junctions, you cannot see individual lamps through the translucent overlay. Very pleasing effect. =C2- Bob . . . /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wBDAAEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/2wBDAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/wAARCAErAZADASIA AhEBAxEB/8QAHwAAAQUBAQEBAQEAAAAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtRAAAgEDAwIEAwUFBAQA AAF9AQIDAAQRBRIhMUEGE1FhByJxFDKBkaEII0KxwRVS0fAkM2JyggkKFhcYGRolJicoKSo0NTY3 ODk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlqc3R1dnd4eXqDhIWGh4iJipKTlJWWl5iZmqKjpKWm p6ipqrKztLW2t7i5usLDxMXGx8jJytLT1NXW19jZ2uHi4+Tl5ufo6erx8vP09fb3+Pn6/8QAHwEA AwEBAQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtREAAgECBAQDBAcFBAQAAQJ3AAECAxEEBSEx BhJBUQdhcRMiMoEIFEKRobHBCSMzUvAVYnLRChYkNOEl8RcYGRomJygpKjU2Nzg5OkNERUZHSElK U1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6goOEhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3 uLm6wsPExcbHyMnK0tPU1dbX2Nna4uPk5ebn6Onq8vP09fb3+Pn6/9oADAMBAAIRAxEAPwD+/iii igAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKKKKACisu81nTLBil1eR 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From: <jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: Trivia dump of the day
Date: May 08, 2017
This set might be interesting - can't tell how bright they are, but the price is pretty good! http://tinyurl.com/lku77uc And these look pretty similar to the one you tested, but come in multi-colors. Again, the price is right! http://tinyurl.com/kmcl5sj Jim Parker -------- Original Message -------- Subject: AeroElectric-List: Trivia dump of the day From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Date: Mon, May 08, 2017 11:07 am Saw this product on ebay at: http://tinyurl.com/ls8ry73 Ordered in a batch. The price is certainly right. Unlike many turn-key indicators of yesteryear, these are nice and bright. Further, they have two leds back to back so they light up with either polarity of DC voltage . . . which means they work on 12 volts AC as well. The only 'downside' are those mash-a-wire screw connectors . . . used 'barefoot', this style connection offers no vibration support for the lead wire. Yet another use for a dab of E6000? They 'come alive' at 3 volts applied with a draw of only 1 milliamp. Would be useful as an indicator driven by the logic output of a microprocessor. At 14v they draw about 11 milliamps. Just for grins, I put one on the bench supply at 29v. It draws 25 milliamps and is expectedly, quite bright. I'll let it 'cock' for awhile. I expect the fixture to get noticeably warm in free air . . . it would, no doubt run cooler if mounted to a panel. Poked around for a few minutes to see if anyone offered this product in other colors. No joy. I did find a bunch of LED products in metal housings. Will let you know if they 'cook off' in a 28v system. I'm betting they'll be just fine for warning light service (intermittent duty) Watch this space . . . My office and shops are migrating to all LED as new lights are installed and old fluorescent fixtures are replaced. Check out the array of surface mount, flat panel led products too. I've used 12" square and 24" square fixtures in the house. My contractor had me build hardwood frames to install 5 fixtures in a local office remodel. Reasonably priced, lots of light. Even tho the flat panel lights are arrays of hundreds of LED junctions, you cannot see individual lamps through the translucent overlay. Very pleasing effect. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Trivia dump of the day
At 12:05 PM 5/8/2017, you wrote: >Bob, > >Dimensions of LED indicators? > >Mounting hole dia: 12mm >Bezel dia: 16mm >Height overall: 26mm >Height off mounting surface: 2mm Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Trivia dump of the day
At 12:15 PM 5/8/2017, you wrote: > >This set might be interesting - can't tell how bright they are, but the >price is pretty good! >http://tinyurl.com/lku77uc These appear to be 5mm lamps . . . similar to fixtures we used to supply with the AEC9005 except we didn't scab resistors into the lead wires. Emacs! Those indicators appear to have leads tacked onto the stock LED lamp leads . . . no bending/ vibration support. >And these look pretty similar to the one you tested, but come in >multi-colors. Again, the price is right! >http://tinyurl.com/kmcl5sj Those look promising . . . I've ordered in one of each color. Will report on findings when they get here. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: May 08, 2017
Subject: Re: Z-17 and over voltage warning lamp
Thanks Bob. Thinking this through some more- since I have an engine monitor w ith alarms and setable limits, I could simply have an alarm trigger when vol tage drops below a certain point, say 14 volts, indicating an alternator out and battery only operations. A check of the alt circuit breaker could diagn ose if the condition was caused by a crowbar trip or some other failure... a lthough in flight it makes little difference since your on battery power eit her way. Is there any real advantage to having a dedicated OV trip warning light? I c an't seem to find any. Jeff Sent from my iPad > On May 7, 2017, at 7:43 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelec tric.com> wrote: > > At 04:57 PM 5/7/2017, you wrote: >> >> I've wired my airplane based on the Z-17 diagram, which uses no master co ntactor, a PM alternator and crowbar OV adapted for that alternator. >> Notably, Z-17 omits the panel mounted OV warning lamp which is activated b y the OV relay being tripped- the lamp is wired to the normally closed conta ct on the relay, as shown on the diagram which came with the alternator. >> >> Today I applied power to the panel for the first time, and while no spoke escaped, I now know why Z-17 omits this lamp- without a master contactor, t his lamp is illuminated constantly when the master switch is off and only go es off when power is applied to the alternator control relay. I would like t o use this lamp on the panel, but the only fix I can noodle out is to run th e lamp wire through a switch, probably using a 3-pole for the master switch ( which now controls both battery and alternator on one switch.) >> >> Has anyone else tackled this with a different solution? > > Z-17 has a recommended solution. Active notification > of low voltage in the form of sensor and light. > > Eric Jones has a LV Warn product http://tinyurl.com/yj7g5jh > > I'll have a replacement for the discontinued AEC9005 > product later this year. > > You can built your own from details on my website. > http://tinyurl.com/6mvso29 > > No doubt there are other options out there. > > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Z-17 and over voltage warning lamp
At 07:38 PM 5/8/2017, you wrote: >Thanks Bob. Thinking this through some more- since I have an engine >monitor with alarms and setable limits, I could simply have an alarm >trigger when voltage drops below a certain point, say 14 volts, >indicating an alternator out and battery only operations. A check of >the alt circuit breaker could diagnose if the condition was caused >by a crowbar trip or some other failure... although in flight it >makes little difference since your on battery power either way. > >Is there any real advantage to having a dedicated OV trip warning >light? I can't seem to find any. As long as you have ACTIVE notification of some type, the design goal is met. Most span-can drivers don't know their alternator is off line until stuff on the panel starts going dark. You need to know . . . and implement plan-B within mere minutes . . . there are lots of ways to make that happen. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Today's trivia dump . . .
From: rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: May 09, 2017
I guess I missed this thread earlier. Which Chinese battery welders were you comparing to. Are there any you can recommend? Raymond Julian Kettle River, MN The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty, understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system. And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness, egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second. -John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968) On 05/07/2017 01:03 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > At 12:12 PM 5/7/2017, you wrote: >> >> Just to close the loop on this thread... >> >> We exchanged a few posts a couple of weeks ago about the feasibility >> of making a DIY spot welder for attaching battery tabs. I've been >> fiddling with the idea since then and have come to the conclusion that >> there's little point in trying to beat the Chinese at their own game. > > i CA > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Today's trivia dump . . .
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 09, 2017
raymondj(at)frontiernet.n wrote: > I guess I missed this thread earlier. Which Chinese battery welders were you comparing to. Are there any you can recommend? > > Raymond Julian > Kettle River, MN Bob mentioned finding this... http://tinyurl.com/knl5wrf ...spot welder on eBay, but I don't think he has yet purchased one. Annoyingly, I think the price has gone up a bit since he first posted the link... Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469175#469175 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil Rosoff" <neil(at)rosoff.com>
Subject: Powering up new panel in my RV9a
Date: May 09, 2017
Stein Air built me a very nice Garmin G3X panel for my RV9. I am in the process of installing it. My preference is to incrementally test and verify the various circuits as I connect them. I have installed a battery box for an Odyssey PC680. It will be several months before I complete the installation, and would prefer to use a fresh one for final check out, engine starting, and flight testing. While the plane is on the ground during testing I was thinking of using a regular 12v auto battery with battery minder attached to it. Bob - do you see any potential issues with this? Neil ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Powering up new panel in my RV9a
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 10, 2017
Double check battery polarity to prevent damaging avionics. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469195#469195 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: PC board fabrication
From: "PeterJohn48115" <peterjohn48115(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 11, 2017
Hi...i am a new user here. Only once in perhaps 40-50 orders was there a production error, and they notified me by email before the boards even arrived, so I didn't waste time or components. Replacements came very quickly.If you use Eagle for board layout, they'll accept your design file directly. All other EDA packages can simply export industry-standard Gerber and NC Drill files and upload them in a ZIP archive. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469221#469221 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Powering up new panel in my RV9a
At 08:57 PM 5/9/2017, you wrote: > >Stein Air built me a very nice Garmin G3X panel for my RV9. I am in the >process of installing it. > >My preference is to incrementally test and verify the various circuits as I >connect them. > >I have installed a battery box for an Odyssey PC680. It will be several >months before I complete the installation, and would prefer to use a fresh >one for final check out, engine starting, and flight testing. > >While the plane is on the ground during testing I was thinking of using a >regular 12v auto battery with battery minder attached to it. > >Bob - do you see any potential issues with this? That's a good way to do it. I've always discouraged builders from buying a 'flight battery' until the days before first flight. Before that time, a garden tractor battery from WalMart et. als. will let you do your development/testing work. Years ago, I used to sell a 13.8v bench supply . . . I think it was rated at about 25 amps. If memory serves, we used to get $140 for them. These were recommended as a 'plug in battery' . . . just wire this puppy to the airplane's battery contactor. Nowadays, there are even better bargains out there . . . here's one: http://tinyurl.com/54fk This thing puts out enough snort to run the whole airplane. You could put on your white scarf, turn out the shop lights and sit in the cockpit with the whole panel lit up while playing engine noises on the .mp3 player. Before that time, it's useful to pull all the fuses out of the panel for installation one-at-a-time as individual systems are fired up for the first time. In any case, buying/installing the flight battery for your airplane should be a ceremonial event . . . like breaking the bottle of champaign on the bow of a ready to launch ship. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 11, 2017
Subject: Re: Powering up new panel in my RV9a
Bob, The url comes back as corrupt. can you repost? Thanks. On May 11, 2017 12:06, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 08:57 PM 5/9/2017, you wrote: > > > Stein Air built me a very nice Garmin G3X panel for my RV9. I am in the > process of installing it. > > My preference is to incrementally test and verify the various circuits as I > connect them. > > I have installed a battery box for an Odyssey PC680. It will be several > months before I complete the installation, and would prefer to use a fresh > one for final check out, engine starting, and flight testing. > > While the plane is on the ground during testing I was thinking of using a > regular 12v auto battery with battery minder attached to it. > > Bob - do you see any potential issues with this? > > > That's a good way to do it. I've always discouraged > builders from buying a 'flight battery' until the > days before first flight. Before that time, a garden > tractor battery from WalMart et. als. will let you do > your development/testing work. > > Years ago, I used to sell a 13.8v bench supply . . . I > think it was rated at about 25 amps. If memory serves, > we used to get $140 for them. These were recommended > as a 'plug in battery' . . . just wire this puppy to the > airplane's battery contactor. Nowadays, there are even > better bargains out there . . . here's one: > > http://tinyurl.com/54fk > > > This thing puts out enough snort to run the whole > airplane. You could put on your white scarf, turn > out the shop lights and sit in the cockpit with the > whole panel lit up while playing engine noises on the > .mp3 player. > > Before that time, it's useful to pull all the fuses > out of the panel for installation one-at-a-time as > individual systems are fired up for the first time. > > In any case, buying/installing the flight battery for your > airplane should be a ceremonial event . . . like > breaking the bottle of champaign on the bow of a > ready to launch ship. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Powering up new panel in my RV9a
At 02:14 PM 5/11/2017, you wrote: >Bob, >The url comes back as corrupt. can you repost? Thanks. Sorry 'bout that . . . trying again http://tinyurl.com/mmzfous http://tinyurl.com/lsvy7v8 http://tinyurl.com/mypq2ns http://tinyurl.com/lxs679o Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil Rosoff" <neil(at)rosoff.com>
Subject: Powering up new panel in my RV9a
Date: May 12, 2017
Thanks Bob. I bought one of these. It was about the same price as a battery. Neil From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 4:07 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Powering up new panel in my RV9a At 02:14 PM 5/11/2017, you wrote: Bob, The url comes back as corrupt. can you repost? Thanks. Sorry 'bout that . . . trying again http://tinyurl.com/mmzfous http://tinyurl.com/lsvy7v8 http://tinyurl.com/mypq2ns http://tinyurl.com/lxs679o Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Powering up new panel in my RV9a
At 07:52 AM 5/12/2017, you wrote: >Thanks Bob. > >I bought one of these. It was about the same price as a battery. yep . . . better yet, it won't go sour sitting on the shelf! Batteries are like house plants. You gotta 'tend' them whether in-service or not. I just pitched a lab battery last week that I'd allowed to self-discharge and degrade to salvage value. I'm upgrading my battery storage area to facilitate maintenance on all the batteries in the shop . . . a feature I did not implement immediately after my move from Wichita to the Kansas hinterlands. With the addition of suitable connectors and controls, power supplies of this nature can be configured to serve as ground power carts with no wheels . . . since they're not beefy enough to crank an engine. But they pretty much run everything else. The only caution is to not use these things to charge a badly discharged ship's battery. It's okay to have this power supply on line with a battery as long as the battery is pretty strong. This would be useful for running hi- inrush, intermittent loads like landing gear pump motors. But for the most part, these supplies are happiest doing the whole job all by themselves. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Keen <john(at)johnkeen.com.au>
Subject: P-leads
Date: May 14, 2017
Hi Bob, I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. It came without P-leads, so I=99m wondering whether they are something I can fabricate or if I will need to purchase them complete? Best regards, John. John Keen 0412 141 833 15 Scott St Scone NSW Australia 2337 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2017
From: Chuck Birdsall <cbirdsall6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: P-leads
John, You can build your own - but I'm not aware of anyone other than TCM (Continental owns the Bendix magneto line) that makes the individual parts. To get an idea what's involved, the Service Manual for your magneto will be here, listed by model number: http://www.continentalmotors.aero/support/maintenance-manuals.aspx#ignition The p-lead parts are called terminal kits in the manual. The how-to should be in section 9, the parts in section 11. Be sure to watch model number/part numbers and "usable on" codes to make sure you get the right part numbers. Aircraft Spruce sells the terminal kits for about US$75 each. The kit consists of the nut, stepped bushing, insulator, and a washer. Aside from a bit of soldering they aren't that difficult to assemble. Care must be taken to keep the overall length of the terminal within the parameters specified. Too long or too short and you may not get good contact. OR - Bogert makes pre-made p-leads for about US$80 each depending on length: https://bogertaviation.com/collections/p-leads/products/p-leads-d-2000-d-3000-magneto They're available thru Bogert direct or thru Spruce. Bendix p-leads come in two varieties (hex nut and round nut) and the round nut variety comes in two different lengths. Watch the video at the bottom of the Bogert web site. Make sure the version you order matches the model number of your magneto. Regards, Chuck ---- John Keen wrote: > Hi Bob, > > I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. It came without P-leads, so Im wondering whether they are something I can fabricate or if I will need to purchase them complete? > > Best regards, > John. > > John Keen > 0412 141 833 > 15 Scott St > Scone NSW Australia 2337 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: P-leads
At 02:18 AM 5/14/2017, you wrote: >Hi Bob, > >I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. >It came without P-leads, so I=99m wondering >whether they are something I can fabricate or if >I will need to purchase them complete? I have made these things. They're not hard to duplicate but you do need a lathe and the right taps for the cap threads. I may still have a 3/8-32 tap around here somewhere. I forget the thread size for the larger cap. Didn't need to make that one so didn't acquire the tap. The materials are not critical. I cut the contact from brass rod, the cap from aluminum rod and the insulator from delrin rod. All that stuff was laying around and the tap was readily available in Wichita so it wasn't a big time-buster project. I've lost the sketches I made for dimensions. You would need to have access to manufactured parts to acquire the dimensions. I'll have to check with my buddy in K.C. to see if that part is still flying on his Mooney. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Radio static when using 12 volt lighter power plug
From: "Rebel56" <Rebel56(at)rogers.com>
Date: May 15, 2017
Obviously I have not grounded something properly, but I am at a loss. I have two cigarette lighter plugs wired into my aircraft. They are to provide power to my iPad on longer flights. I have noticed that whenever I have the iPad plugged in I get some static when I receive a transmission. Otherwise the radio is quiet. Not sure what to make of this. Why is it only on receiving? I would think that if it was a ground issue, I would have the static all the time. If there is nothing plugged into the power plug, I have no issues at all. Any ideas as to what I should check first. Rebel56 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469330#469330 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Radio static when using 12 volt lighter power plug
Date: May 15, 2017
It is the iPad power adapter. Lot of discussion on this and other boards about good and bad adapters. I have played with a couple and found one that was better than the others......but my kids keep stealing and moving them. I just live with it and only plug in the iPad when I need it. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rebel56 Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 4:22 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio static when using 12 volt lighter power plug Obviously I have not grounded something properly, but I am at a loss. I have two cigarette lighter plugs wired into my aircraft. They are to provide power to my iPad on longer flights. I have noticed that whenever I have the iPad plugged in I get some static when I receive a transmission. Otherwise the radio is quiet. Not sure what to make of this. Why is it only on receiving? I would think that if it was a ground issue, I would have the static all the time. If there is nothing plugged into the power plug, I have no issues at all. Any ideas as to what I should check first. Rebel56 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469330#469330 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Radio static when using 12 volt lighter power
plug
From: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 15, 2017
When you receive a transmission, the radio opens the squelch which means that it now also receives any weak signals that are present but too weak to open the squelch by themselves. Ken On 15/05/2017 6:35 PM, Rene wrote: > > It is the iPad power adapter. Lot of discussion on this and other boards > about good and bad adapters. I have played with a couple and found one that > was better than the others......but my kids keep stealing and moving them. > I just live with it and only plug in the iPad when I need it. > > Rene' > 801-721-6080 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rebel56 > Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 4:22 PM > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio static when using 12 volt lighter power > plug > > > Obviously I have not grounded something properly, but I am at a loss. > > I have two cigarette lighter plugs wired into my aircraft. They are to > provide power to my iPad on longer flights. I have noticed that whenever I > have the iPad plugged in I get some static when I receive a transmission. > Otherwise the radio is quiet. Not sure what to make of this. Why is it only > on receiving? I would think that if it was a ground issue, I would have the > static all the time. > If there is nothing plugged into the power plug, I have no issues at all. > > > Any ideas as to what I should check first. > > Rebel56 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469330#469330 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Keen <john(at)johnkeen.com.au>
Date: May 16, 2017
Subject: Re: P-leads
Many thanks to everyone who's replied, fortunately I have access to the mate rials and original parts as patterns so I think I'll have a go at matching t he terminal parts. Pretty sure we'll have a suitable tap here somewhere. Cheers, John. John Keen 0412 141 833 > On 16 May 2017, at 00:08, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectr ic.com> wrote: > > At 02:18 AM 5/14/2017, you wrote: >> Hi Bob, >> >> I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. It came without P-leads, s o I=99m wondering whether they are something I can fabricate or if I w ill need to purchase them complete? > > I have made these things. They're not hard to > duplicate but you do need a lathe and the > right taps for the cap threads. I may still > have a 3/8-32 tap around here somewhere. > > I forget the thread size for the larger cap. > Didn't need to make that one so didn't > acquire the tap. The materials are not critical. > > I cut the contact from brass rod, the cap from > aluminum rod and the insulator from delrin rod. > All that stuff was laying around and the tap was readily > available in Wichita so it wasn't a big time-buster > project. > > I've lost the sketches I made for dimensions. You > would need to have access to manufactured parts > to acquire the dimensions. I'll have to check > with my buddy in K.C. to see if that part is > still flying on his Mooney. > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: P-leads
At 07:43 PM 5/15/2017, you wrote: >Many thanks to everyone who's replied, fortunately I have access to >the materials and original parts as patterns so I think I'll have a >go at matching the terminal parts. Pretty sure we'll have a suitable >tap here somewhere. Good show! Send us some pix of the finished product! I got my 3/8-32 off eBay as I recall, I think I paid more for it than this http://tinyurl.com/lwav9l3 I think I'm recalling that the larger p-lead nut on the dual point mag was 7/16-28 Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com>
Subject: P-leads
Date: May 16, 2017
John I=99m flying a TB10 while building. This has a O-360 with the Bendix dual mag. These things are a disaster for maintenance =93 hugely expensive and parts difficult/impossible to buy Depending on the state of your build I would seriously look at changing the accessory housing and converting to a normal pair of Slicks. Better redundancy, cheap and easy to maintain and solid reliability. Rgds Peter From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Keen Sent: 14 May 2017 08:19 Subject: AeroElectric-List: P-leads Hi Bob, I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. It came without P-leads, so I=99m wondering whether they are something I can fabricate or if I will need to purchase them complete? Best regards, John. John Keen 0412 141 833 15 Scott St Scone NSW Australia 2337 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: P-leads
At 06:24 AM 5/16/2017, you wrote: >John > >I=99m flying a TB10 while building. This has a >O-360 with the Bendix dual mag. These things are >a disaster for maintenance ' hugely expensive >and parts difficult/impossible to buy< >Depending on the state of your build I would >seriously look at changing the accessory housing >and converting to a normal pair of Slicks. >Better redundancy, cheap and easy to maintain and solid reliability. > >Rgds > >Peter Another alternative would be E-Mags http://tinyurl.com/n5vzcdp Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: WestTack (Westberg Manufacturing) Fuel Probe Power
Consumption and Installation Manual
Date: May 16, 2017
Does anyone have a copy of the instruction manual for this WesTack unit? My airplane has the Westack capacitance fuel probes and I am trying to figure out how much power two units would consume and if I can use the Dynon Skyview PIN 15. The instruction sheet I found online (attached) discusses the installation of the probes however it is really lacking on electrical hookup. .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WestTack (Westberg Manufacturing) Fuel Probe Power
Consumpti
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
The trade name is Westach, not WestTack Capacitive fuel level probes are pretty much passive devices that do not consume power (aside from perhaps a tiny amount through dielectric leakage) An RF voltage is applied to the probe and the capacitance is measured across the electrodes. There is no polarity to these electrodes and so there is really nothing to say about how to hook it up, the two wires go into the monitor box. The issue of compatibility is one of measurable range of capacitance in the measuring box, most are adjustable, maybe not all. The capacitance of the probe in fuel is a function of probe geometry and immersed level of fuel (assuming you never switch to auto gas). Your best bet is to call dynon and ask if their box can adjust to the Westach probe. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469355#469355 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 12V Batteries
From: "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
How about electrically dependent RV-6A, IO-360, 8.5:1, SDS EFI/EI, Z-13/8? -------- John Bright, RV-6A, at Finish Kit Continental Titan IOX-360, 8.5:1, vertical sump, SDS EM-5 EFI and EI, injectors in heads. Aeroelectric Z-13/8 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469357#469357 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
Subject: coax splitter
So I am revisiting my (untested) installation that allows me to use my com antenna with a handheld. First I was going to use that little iCom box until Bob revealed that it is junk. So instead I installed a good quality splitter with a bulkhead connector on the panel. My brain must not have been working very well when I did the installation because I didn't think it through. I just blindly hooked the com radio to the "S" the panel to the "1" and the com antenna to the "2" Later I got thinking that probably the com antenna should go to the "S" and the com radio and panel connector should use the "1" and the "2" So I pulled the thing out and got out my continuity tester, and all the center pins test for continuity with each other. So now I am thinking that it doesn't matter which goes where, and that I can just put it back the way it was. Before I do, I would like to confirm that all this thing is doing is connecting all three connectors together equally, and that there is no need or advantage to any particular order. I am attaching a spec sheet for the part, which is a Mini-Circuits Splitter ZFSC-2-1+ Thanks, Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: P-leads
Date: May 16, 2017
While you may have flown a plane with a dual mag, that is about equivalent to a stay with Holiday Inn Express. If it was such a bad device, why in the heck were you flying behind something depending on it? Why isn't there an AD requiring removal? Yes, there were some issues with the dual mag when it was first introduced, both developmental and caused by mechanics unfamiliar with its specific needs. That is way in the past. There are numerous magneto shops that do quality overhauls of dual mags and know what is needed. PMA parts suppliers make most of the needed replacement parts. Properly installed and maintained, the dual mag is at least equal to the Slicks you suggest, perhaps better in terms of reliability. There are valid reasons to chose to change to individual mags, that have little to do with maintenance or cost. Parts are available within normal aircraft pricing. Slick mags may be cheaper than Bendix to purchase, but they will cost you more in the long run, because after the first overhaul, they are not economical to do subsequent overhauls. Reliable? compared to what? Certainly not more reliable than the comparable Bendix models. A vast majority of mechanics will choose Bendix over Slick any day. Need less maintenance, need less parts replaced, and deliver a hotter spark. Before TCM Bendix dropped its support for the dual mag, Lycoming charged typically $2500 to supply an engine with two single mags when the core engine had a dual mag. To make the changes needed, he is probably looking at similar or greater costs. Especially with shipping down under. Meanwhile, it is likely that by the time his mag needs an overhaul, there will be one or two electronic replacements available. Kelly A&P/IA On 5/16/2017 4:24 AM, Peter Mather wrote: > John > > Im flying a TB10 while building. This has a O-360 with the Bendix dual > mag. These things are a disaster for maintenance hugely expensive and > parts difficult/impossible to buy > > Depending on the state of your build I would seriously look at changing > the accessory housing and converting to a normal pair of Slicks. Better > redundancy, cheap and easy to maintain and solid reliability. > > Rgds > > Peter > > *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *John Keen > *Sent:* 14 May 2017 08:19 > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: P-leads > > Hi Bob, > > I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. It came without P-leads, > so Im wondering whether they are something I can fabricate or if I will > need to purchase them complete? > > Best regards, > > John. > > *John Keen* > > 0412 141 833 > > 15 Scott St > > Scone NSW Australia 2337 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: coax splitter
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
I'm no RF engineer, but I don't think this will work as you hope. With both radios attached, one will be transmitting into the final amplifier of the other, in parallel with the antenna. It might work if you remove the non-transmitting radio and attach a 50-ohm terminator in its place (which obviously defeats the purpose of the installation). Otherwise impedance will probably not be seen as 50 ohms by the active transmitter, SWR will likely not be very good, and you risk damaging the non-transmitting radio. Also, from the data sheet you attached, see the Maximum Ratings table at the upper left corner: "Power input (as a splitter): 1W" -and- "Permanent damage may occur if any of these limits are exceeded." Typical handheld RF transmit power is 3-5W and panel mount radios are typically rated around 8W in 14V aircraft and 16W in 28V aircraft. I don't think this splitter is intended for this kind of application, but rather as an instrumentation tool, or as a means to connect two receivers to one antenna. I suspect the 1W rating allows some overhead if an active (amplified) antenna is used. Eric kenryan wrote: > So I am revisiting my (untested) installation that allows me to use my com antenna with a handheld. First I was going to use that little iCom box until Bob revealed that it is junk. So instead I installed a good quality splitter with a bulkhead connector on the panel. My brain must not have been working very well when I did the installation because I didn't think it through. I just blindly hooked the com radio to the "S" the panel to the "1" and the com antenna to the "2" > > Later I got thinking that probably the com antenna should go to the "S" and the com radio and panel connector should use the "1" and the "2" > > So I pulled the thing out and got out my continuity tester, and all the center pins test for continuity with each other. So now I am thinking that it doesn't matter which goes where, and that I can just put it back the way it was. > > Before I do, I would like to confirm that all this thing is doing is connecting all three connectors together equally, and that there is no need or advantage to any particular order. > > I am attaching a spec sheet for the part, which is a Mini-Circuits Splitter ZFSC-2-1+ > > Thanks, > > Ken Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469364#469364 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: coax splitter
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
Eric Page wrote: > I'm no RF engineer... Um, yeah, like I said... Ever hit the "submit" button and shortly regret it? OK, ignore the bit about one radio transmitting into the other. After reading an application note about splitter/combiners on Mini-Circuits' website, it's obvious these things offer isolation between the ports. So, one radio on port 1, one radio on port 2, antenna on the sum port. Power handling is another issue. The unit you have isn't rated for the power levels we're talking about. It looks like they have plenty of units that are, however. Eric With fingers crossed, tapping "submit" again... now! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469366#469366 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com>
Subject: P-leads
Date: May 16, 2017
" If it was such a bad device, why in the heck were you flying behind something depending on it?" Try reading my post. I said it was "a disaster for maintenance" not that there was anything wrong with it as a functional unit or that it was unreliable. "Before TCM Bendix dropped its support for the dual mag" Exactly! I've owned 8 aircraft with all varieties of mag. The last 500 hr overhaul on a pair of Slicks cost me 240 total (UK price). My dual mag needs a 6yr overhaul this year and will cost me c2000. By all means go for a pair of Bendix if you prefer them over Slicks but I stand by my advice to avoid the dual mags if long term budget is important to you -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: 16 May 2017 21:22 Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: P-leads --> While you may have flown a plane with a dual mag, that is about equivalent to a stay with Holiday Inn Express. If it was such a bad device, why in the heck were you flying behind something depending on it? Why isn't there an AD requiring removal? Yes, there were some issues with the dual mag when it was first introduced, both developmental and caused by mechanics unfamiliar with its specific needs. That is way in the past. There are numerous magneto shops that do quality overhauls of dual mags and know what is needed. PMA parts suppliers make most of the needed replacement parts. Properly installed and maintained, the dual mag is at least equal to the Slicks you suggest, perhaps better in terms of reliability. There are valid reasons to chose to change to individual mags, that have little to do with maintenance or cost. Parts are available within normal aircraft pricing. Slick mags may be cheaper than Bendix to purchase, but they will cost you more in the long run, because after the first overhaul, they are not economical to do subsequent overhauls. Reliable? compared to what? Certainly not more reliable than the comparable Bendix models. A vast majority of mechanics will choose Bendix over Slick any day. Need less maintenance, need less parts replaced, and deliver a hotter spark. Before TCM Bendix dropped its support for the dual mag, Lycoming charged typically $2500 to supply an engine with two single mags when the core engine had a dual mag. To make the changes needed, he is probably looking at similar or greater costs. Especially with shipping down under. Meanwhile, it is likely that by the time his mag needs an overhaul, there will be one or two electronic replacements available. Kelly A&P/IA On 5/16/2017 4:24 AM, Peter Mather wrote: > John > > Im flying a TB10 while building. This has a O-360 with the Bendix > dual mag. These things are a disaster for maintenance hugely > expensive and parts difficult/impossible to buy > > Depending on the state of your build I would seriously look at > changing the accessory housing and converting to a normal pair of > Slicks. Better redundancy, cheap and easy to maintain and solid reliability. > > Rgds > > Peter > > *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *John Keen > *Sent:* 14 May 2017 08:19 > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: P-leads > > Hi Bob, > > I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. It came without > P-leads, so Im wondering whether they are something I can fabricate > or if I will need to purchase them complete? > > Best regards, > > John. > > *John Keen* > > 0412 141 833 > > 15 Scott St > > Scone NSW Australia 2337 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: coax splitter
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
Eric Page wrote: > After reading an application note about splitter/combiners on Mini-Circuits' website... Here's the application note, in case anyone else is interested: https://www.minicircuits.com/app/AN10-006.pdf Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469367#469367 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WestTack (Westberg Manufacturing) Fuel Probe Power
Consumpti
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
The Dynon SkyView installation manual on page 7-49 states, " > Capacitive fuel level sensors are only supported on pins 8, 22, 23, and 31 on the SV-EMS- > 220/221 D37. Capacitive sensors must output a variable voltage within the ranges of 0-5 volts DC." The Westach document that you linked states that its output is 0 to 5 VDC. The two units should be compatible. Like rampil posted, best bet is to call Dynon support. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469370#469370 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: What is the Design Model Number Of The B&C Alternator
Field Plug Metal Terminal Ends
Date: May 16, 2017
.. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter I am replacing the field wire of my B&C SD-60 alternator and I need to buy a new metal terminal end. It looks like a Packard 56 male snap in termonal end however Packard 56 end is too thick to slide into the plastic plug. Does anyone know the design model number? THANKS!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: P-leads
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
Just because TCM dropped support for the mag does not mean it doesn't exist. It also does not mean that in the USA cost is significantly different than maintaining two separate mags. Disaster for maintenance implies unexpected failures in my book. Examples done by quality mag shops in the US are not prone to failure before 500 hours, and are not out of sight on overhaul cost. Some engines they are used on, such as the O-320-H2AD, there is no single mag model made, you cannot convert. Seems you could do an exchange with a US magneto shop for a lot less than what you are quoting. I'm not a fan of the dual head magneto, but it isn't nearly as bad as you portray. Your Slick overhaul, if the price is for both, you can't achieve that in the US, and overhaul at 1000 hours will exceed the cost of new. In most any turbo-charged application the Slicks won't make 500 hours. In the US overhauling a Slick will cost as much or more than overhauling a Bendix. On 5/16/2017 2:30 PM, Peter Mather wrote: > > " If it was such a bad device, why in the heck were you flying behind something depending on it?" > > Try reading my post. I said it was "a disaster for maintenance" not that there was anything wrong with it as a functional unit or that it was unreliable. > > "Before TCM Bendix dropped its support for the dual mag > > Exactly! > > I've owned 8 aircraft with all varieties of mag. The last 500 hr overhaul on a pair of Slicks cost me 240 total (UK price). My dual mag needs a 6yr overhaul this year and will cost me c2000. > > > By all means go for a pair of Bendix if you prefer them over Slicks but I stand by my advice to avoid the dual mags if long term budget is important to you > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: 16 May 2017 21:22 > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: P-leads > > --> > > While you may have flown a plane with a dual mag, that is about equivalent to a stay with Holiday Inn Express. If it was such a bad device, why in the heck were you flying behind something depending on it? Why isn't there an AD requiring removal? > Yes, there were some issues with the dual mag when it was first introduced, both developmental and caused by mechanics unfamiliar with its specific needs. That is way in the past. There are numerous magneto shops that do quality overhauls of dual mags and know what is needed. > PMA parts suppliers make most of the needed replacement parts. > Properly installed and maintained, the dual mag is at least equal to the Slicks you suggest, perhaps better in terms of reliability. > There are valid reasons to chose to change to individual mags, that have little to do with maintenance or cost. Parts are available within normal aircraft pricing. Slick mags may be cheaper than Bendix to purchase, but they will cost you more in the long run, because after the first overhaul, they are not economical to do subsequent overhauls. Reliable? > compared to what? Certainly not more reliable than the comparable Bendix models. A vast majority of mechanics will choose Bendix over Slick any day. Need less maintenance, need less parts replaced, and deliver a hotter spark. > Before TCM Bendix dropped its support for the dual mag, Lycoming charged typically $2500 to supply an engine with two single mags when the core engine had a dual mag. To make the changes needed, he is probably looking at similar or greater costs. Especially with shipping down under. Meanwhile, it is likely that by the time his mag needs an overhaul, there will be one or two electronic replacements available. > Kelly > A&P/IA > > On 5/16/2017 4:24 AM, Peter Mather wrote: >> John >> >> Im flying a TB10 while building. This has a O-360 with the Bendix >> dual mag. These things are a disaster for maintenance hugely >> expensive and parts difficult/impossible to buy >> >> Depending on the state of your build I would seriously look at >> changing the accessory housing and converting to a normal pair of >> Slicks. Better redundancy, cheap and easy to maintain and solid reliability. >> >> Rgds >> >> Peter >> >> *From:*owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of >> *John Keen >> *Sent:* 14 May 2017 08:19 >> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject:* AeroElectric-List: P-leads >> >> Hi Bob, >> >> I have an engine with the Bendix dual magneto. It came without >> P-leads, so Im wondering whether they are something I can fabricate >> or if I will need to purchase them complete? >> >> Best regards, >> >> John. >> >> *John Keen* >> >> 0412 141 833 >> >> 15 Scott St >> >> Scone NSW Australia 2337 >> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: What is the Design Model Number Of The B&C Alternator
Field Plug Metal Terminal Ends
Date: May 16, 2017
I meant female terminal end .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Hunter Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2017 5:02 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: What is the Design Model Number Of The B&C Alternator Field Plug Metal Terminal Ends --> .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter I am replacing the field wire of my B&C SD-60 alternator and I need to buy a new metal terminal end. It looks like a Packard 56 male snap in termonal end however Packard 56 end is too thick to slide into the plastic plug. Does anyone know the design model number? THANKS!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: WestTack (Westberg Manufacturing) Fuel Probe
Power Consumpti
Date: May 16, 2017
Thanks Joe and Rampil, The probes were working on the previous installation and I was happy with the system however I am doing a complete rewire and the previous setup had a 2 AMP CB that provided the power to the probes. I since realized that the EMS PIN 18 is a 12 VDC power source and it was powering a FLOSCAN 201B fuel flow sensor. If the Flowscan plus the two capacitance probes are less than the 80 miliamps that the pin can provide I want to power the probes with the PIN 15 so then I do not have to have the battery master on should I want to check the fuel levels. THANKS AGAIN!!! Bill Hunter -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of user9253 Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2017 4:41 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: WestTack (Westberg Manufacturing) Fuel Probe Power Consumpti The Dynon SkyView installation manual on page 7-49 states, " > Capacitive fuel level sensors are only supported on pins 8, 22, 23, > and 31 on the SV-EMS- > 220/221 D37. Capacitive sensors must output a variable voltage within the ranges of 0-5 volts DC." The Westach document that you linked states that its output is 0 to 5 VDC. The two units should be compatible. Like rampil posted, best bet is to call Dynon support. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469370#469370 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: coax splitter
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 16, 2017
On 5/16/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > So I am revisiting my (untested) installation that allows me to use my > com antenna with a handheld. First I was going to use that little iCom > box until Bob revealed that it is junk. So instead I installed a good > quality splitter with a bulkhead connector on the panel. My brain must > not have been working very well when I did the installation because I > didn't think it through. I just blindly hooked the com radio to the > "S" the panel to the "1" and the com antenna to the "2" > > Later I got thinking that probably the com antenna should go to the > "S" and the com radio and panel connector should use the "1" and the "2" > > So I pulled the thing out and got out my continuity tester, and all > the center pins test for continuity with each other. So now I am > thinking that it doesn't matter which goes where, and that I can just > put it back the way it was. > > Before I do, I would like to confirm that all this thing is doing is > connecting all three connectors together equally, and that there is no > need or advantage to any particular order. > > I am attaching a spec sheet for the part, which is a Mini-Circuits > Splitter ZFSC-2-1+ > > Thanks, > > Ken Don't do it. A splitter doesn't do the same thing as a switch box (hence, the different names). A splitter will send an antenna's signal to two *receivers*. The switch box (cheesy though it is) actually switches the antenna between two radios. Because it switches, it's ok to attach both *transceivers* to the box. Only one gets connected at a time. If you connect two transceivers through the splitter to one antenna, then one transmitter will attempt to transmit directly into the other's receiver. Not a good plan. Charlie --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 17, 2017
Subject: Re: coax splitter
Charlie, I *thought* I was following Bob's advice, using the splitter instead of the cheezy switch. I can't find the thread but I think what he said was that the switch is far more likely to damage something (due to failure) than it is to perform as designed, when needed. Again, I am trying to recall ... but I think the idea is that if I ever need to use the handheld, the first thing I do is turn off the (non-functioning) com radio and only then use panel jack to connect the handheld to the antenna. So now I guess I have two questions--my original (Does it make any difference which coax goes to what connector?) and now a second: As long as I turn off the com radio before connecting the handheld to the antenna, am I safe from damaging either radio? Ken On Tue, May 16, 2017 at 7:39 PM, Charlie England wrote: > ceengland7(at)gmail.com> > > > On 5/16/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > >> So I am revisiting my (untested) installation that allows me to use my >> com antenna with a handheld. First I was going to use that little iCom box >> until Bob revealed that it is junk. So instead I installed a good quality >> splitter with a bulkhead connector on the panel. My brain must not have >> been working very well when I did the installation because I didn't think >> it through. I just blindly hooked the com radio to the "S" the panel to the >> "1" and the com antenna to the "2" >> >> Later I got thinking that probably the com antenna should go to the "S" >> and the com radio and panel connector should use the "1" and the "2" >> >> So I pulled the thing out and got out my continuity tester, and all the >> center pins test for continuity with each other. So now I am thinking that >> it doesn't matter which goes where, and that I can just put it back the way >> it was. >> >> Before I do, I would like to confirm that all this thing is doing is >> connecting all three connectors together equally, and that there is no need >> or advantage to any particular order. >> >> I am attaching a spec sheet for the part, which is a Mini-Circuits >> Splitter ZFSC-2-1+ >> >> Thanks, >> >> Ken >> > Don't do it. > > A splitter doesn't do the same thing as a switch box (hence, the different > names). > > A splitter will send an antenna's signal to two *receivers*. > > The switch box (cheesy though it is) actually switches the antenna between > two radios. Because it switches, it's ok to attach both *transceivers* to > the box. Only one gets connected at a time. > > If you connect two transceivers through the splitter to one antenna, then > one transmitter will attempt to transmit directly into the other's > receiver. Not a good plan. > > Charlie > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: coax splitter
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 17, 2017
On 5/17/2017 8:33 AM, Ken Ryan wrote: > Charlie, > > I *thought* I was following Bob's advice, using the splitter instead > of the cheezy switch. I can't find the thread but I think what he said > was that the switch is far more likely to damage something (due to > failure) than it is to perform as designed, when needed. > > Again, I am trying to recall ... but I think the idea is that if I > ever need to use the handheld, the first thing I do is turn off the > (non-functioning) com radio and only then use panel jack to connect > the handheld to the antenna. > > So now I guess I have two questions--my original (Does it make any > difference which coax goes to what connector?) and now a second: As > long as I turn off the com radio before connecting the handheld to the > antenna, am I safe from damaging either radio? > > Ken > > On Tue, May 16, 2017 at 7:39 PM, Charlie England > wrote: > > > > > > On 5/16/2017 2:49 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > > So I am revisiting my (untested) installation that allows me > to use my com antenna with a handheld. First I was going to > use that little iCom box until Bob revealed that it is junk. > So instead I installed a good quality splitter with a bulkhead > connector on the panel. My brain must not have been working > very well when I did the installation because I didn't think > it through. I just blindly hooked the com radio to the "S" the > panel to the "1" and the com antenna to the "2" > > Later I got thinking that probably the com antenna should go > to the "S" and the com radio and panel connector should use > the "1" and the "2" > > So I pulled the thing out and got out my continuity tester, > and all the center pins test for continuity with each other. > So now I am thinking that it doesn't matter which goes where, > and that I can just put it back the way it was. > > Before I do, I would like to confirm that all this thing is > doing is connecting all three connectors together equally, and > that there is no need or advantage to any particular order. > > I am attaching a spec sheet for the part, which is a > Mini-Circuits Splitter ZFSC-2-1+ > > Thanks, > > Ken > > Don't do it. > > A splitter doesn't do the same thing as a switch box (hence, the > different names). > > A splitter will send an antenna's signal to two *receivers*. > > The switch box (cheesy though it is) actually switches the antenna > between two radios. Because it switches, it's ok to attach both > *transceivers* to the box. Only one gets connected at a time. > > If you connect two transceivers through the splitter to one > antenna, then one transmitter will attempt to transmit directly > into the other's receiver. Not a good plan. > > Charlie > You might get away with it, but I wouldn't do it. The ports are not symmetrical in all three directions. See the labels on the data sheet. The 'S' (sum, as in adding) port is the combining of ports 1 & 2. If you were using two simple radio *receivers*, the antenna would go on the S port and the radios would go on ports 1 & 2. Or if using 2 antennas to feed one radio (not common, but it does happen), the radio would go on the S port. Why not just duplicate the electrical schematic of the cheesy switch, but replace the 1/8" normalizing jack with a simple miniature toggle switch? Replace the jack function of the normalizing jack with another BNC connector. That way, you can leave the handheld *and* the panel radio both plugged into the box, and if there's a problem with the panel radio, reach under the panel & flip the switch to connect the antenna to the hand held. Realistically, if the handheld is for emergency communications only, why not just use the rubber ducky that comes with it? It'll work for 10-15 miles, so what's not to like? Simple, reliable, no extra parts to fail, etc etc. Charlie --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Subject: Re: coax splitter
Date: May 17, 2017
> On May 17, 2017, at 10:29 AM, Charlie England wrote: > > why not just use the rubber ducky that comes with it? It'll work for 10-15 miles, so what's not to like? Simple, reliable, no extra parts to fail, etc etc. A 1.5W battery-powered hand-held in to a rubber whip antenna has difficulty transmitting more than a mile. It=99s even worse when you=99re inside a metal skinned aircraft. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 17, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: coax splitter
At 09:29 AM 5/17/2017, you wrote: >On 5/17/2017 8:33 AM, Ken Ryan wrote: >>Charlie, >> >>I *thought* I was following Bob's advice, using >>the splitter instead of the cheezy switch. I >>can't find the thread but I think what he said >>was that the switch is far more likely to >>damage something (due to failure) than it is to >>perform as designed, when needed.=C2 >> >>Again, I am trying to recall ... but I think >>the idea is that if I ever need to use the >>handheld, the first thing I do is turn off the >>(non-functioning) com radio and only then use >>panel jack to connect the handheld to the antenna. >> >>So now I guess I have two questions--my >>original (Does it make any difference which >>coax goes to what connector?) and now a second: >>As long as I turn off the com radio before >>connecting the handheld to the antenna, am I safe from damaging either radio? The only recommendation I have posted for this application is the idea of a crew-accessible splice connection in the antenna's feed line. This allows the pilot to open the feed line and connect it to the hand-held. There ARE devices that will allow two transceivers to share a common antenna but they are expensive, big and heavy. The 'power splitter' is used to let two small signal devices to share the same source/load. They are used with two receivers and in some bench test situations. As others have pointed out, it is not suited to the proposed task. I once proposed a panel mounted dpdt toggle switch and dummy load that would transfer a single antenna between two transceivers while presenting a proper load to the transceiver not in service. Emacs! The switch can be a miniature toggle. Coax to the hand/held can be routed of the switch to a bnc jack on the panel . . . But give the reliability of modern elex, it seems a bit of over-kill. A splice in the feed line mitigates the rare failure event with a minimum of cost. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
From: "kfav8r" <kfav8r(at)outlook.com>
Date: May 17, 2017
Thanks for the replies. I'll get some pictures ASAP. -------- Doug Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469391#469391 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Subject: Re: coax splitter
Date: May 17, 2017
Bob, How damaging is it to a modern 5W or 10W transmitter to transmit into an open circuit? > On May 17, 2017, at 11:10 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > At 09:29 AM 5/17/2017, you wrote: >> On 5/17/2017 8:33 AM, Ken Ryan wrote: >>> Charlie, >>> >>> I *thought* I was following Bob's advice, using the splitter instead of the cheezy switch. I can't find the thread but I think what he said was that the switch is far more likely to damage something (due to failure) than it is to perform as designed, when needed.=C3=82 >>> >>> Again, I am trying to recall ... but I think the idea is that if I ever need to use the handheld, the first thing I do is turn off the (non-functioning) com radio and only then use panel jack to connect the handheld to the antenna. >>> >>> So now I guess I have two questions--my original (Does it make any difference which coax goes to what connector?) and now a second: As long as I turn off the com radio before connecting the handheld to the antenna, am I safe from damaging either radio? > > The only recommendation I have posted for > this application is the idea of a crew-accessible > splice connection in the antenna's feed line. > > This allows the pilot to open the feed line > and connect it to the hand-held. There ARE > devices that will allow two transceivers > to share a common antenna but they are expensive, > big and heavy. > > The 'power splitter' is used to let two small > signal devices to share the same source/load. > They are used with two receivers and in some > bench test situations. As others have pointed > out, it is not suited to the proposed task. > > I once proposed a panel mounted dpdt toggle > switch and dummy load that would transfer > a single antenna between two transceivers > while presenting a proper load to the transceiver > not in service. > > <325e15d9.jpg> > The switch can be a miniature toggle. > Coax to the hand/held can be routed > of the switch to a bnc jack on the > panel . . . > > But give the reliability of modern elex, > it seems a bit of over-kill. A > splice in the feed line mitigates > the rare failure event with a minimum of > cost. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 17, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: coax splitter
At 10:17 AM 5/17/2017, you wrote: >Bob, > >How damaging is it to a modern 5W or 10W transmitter to transmit >into an open circuit? Probably none . . . it's stone simple to incorporate internal swr sense hardware that will reduce drive to the transmitter's output stage under poor swr conditions. I've not studied the constellation of products out there but I cannot imagine anyone NOT making this part of their elegant design . . . cost of doing so is trivial . . . return on investment is significant. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 17, 2017
Subject: Re: coax splitter
Thanks everybody, for saving me from my myself. I have tried to review all the previous threads, and cannot figure out how I came up with doing what I did. On Wed, May 17, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 10:17 AM 5/17/2017, you wrote: > > Bob, > > How damaging is it to a modern 5W or 10W transmitter to transmit into an > open circuit? > > > Probably none . . . it's stone simple to > incorporate internal swr sense hardware > that will reduce drive to the transmitter's > output stage under poor swr conditions. > > I've not studied the constellation of > products out there but I cannot imagine > anyone NOT making this part of their > elegant design . . . cost of doing > so is trivial . . . return on investment > is significant. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: CS-02 = POS
Date: May 17, 2017
The Grand Rapids CS-02 is a POS!!! I bought one and while wiring it up it fell apart. The wires snap onto the ring with a plastic clip and this clip is VERY fragile. Grand Rapids replaced it for free and the second one fell apart during the assembly so I will not go that route again. Can someone please give me a suggestion for a ring type current sensor that I can use in lieu of the GS-02? .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
From: "kfav8r" <kfav8r(at)outlook.com>
Date: May 17, 2017
Pictures attached... -------- Doug Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469398#469398 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20170517_104757921_compressor_144.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20170517_104735835_compressor_427.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20170517_104724804_compressor_175.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_20170517_104716435_compressor_200.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)PoogieBearRanch.com>
Subject: coax splitter
Date: May 17, 2017
<< A 1.5W battery-powered hand-held in to a rubber whip antenna has difficulty transmitting << more than a mile. Its even worse when youre inside a metal skinned aircraft. Not sure what hand-held radio you're using, but using my Sporty's SP-400 with the "rubber ducky" antenna, I was able to talk to my local tower crew from 15 miles away. They said I was a bit "scratchy" but understandable. At 10 miles, it was pretty much crystal clear. That said, I have a coax connector in my plane so I can plug it into the external antenna. Using it that way, I was talking to ATC from about 25 miles away. Jim Parker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Subject: Re: coax splitter
Date: May 17, 2017
ICOM A24. I have a Sportys SP400 but even when off it drains the batteries in 7 days, then they leak all over the inside. Piece of trash. > On May 17, 2017, at 2:14 PM, wrote: > > > << A 1.5W battery-powered hand-held in to a rubber whip antenna has > difficulty transmitting > << more than a mile. Its even worse when youre inside a metal > skinned aircraft. > > Not sure what hand-held radio you're using, but using my Sporty's SP-400 > with the "rubber ducky" antenna, I was able to talk to my local tower > crew from 15 miles away. They said I was a bit "scratchy" but > understandable. At 10 miles, it was pretty much crystal clear. > > That said, I have a coax connector in my plane so I can plug it into the > external antenna. Using it that way, I was talking to ATC from about 25 > miles away. > > Jim Parker > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: CS-02 = POS
From: "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com>
Date: May 17, 2017
Been there, done that, didn't get a t-shirt. The issue with these is very easy to fix (if you want to). Here's what I found out happened: See how pretty the pins are? The wires are supposed to be soldered to those pins. But the guy they had assembling these was just stripping the wires, laying them next to the pins, sliding the heat shrink tubing down and then heating it up. So all I did was solder the wires directly to the pins and cover with heat shrink. Been working great for the past six months. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469406#469406 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 17, 2017
Subject: Re: CS-02 = POS
Thanks Don... my soldering skills + very small wires = POS... so I better think of something else. Thanks, Bill Hunter On May 17, 2017 1:34 PM, "donjohnston" <don@velocity-xl.com> wrote: > don@velocity-xl.com> > > Been there, done that, didn't get a t-shirt. > > The issue with these is very easy to fix (if you want to). Here's what I > found out happened: > > See how pretty the pins are? The wires are supposed to be soldered to > those pins. But the guy they had assembling these was just stripping the > wires, laying them next to the pins, sliding the heat shrink tubing down > and then heating it up. > > So all I did was solder the wires directly to the pins and cover with heat > shrink. > > Been working great for the past six months. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469406#469406 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: CS-02 = POS
At 10:52 AM 5/17/2017, you wrote: >The Grand Rapids CS-02 is a POS!!! > >I bought one and while wiring it up it fell apart. The wires snap >onto the ring with a plastic clip and this clip is VERY fragile. > >Grand Rapids replaced it for free and the second one fell apart >during the assembly so I will not go that route again. > >Can someone please give me a suggestion for a ring type current >sensor that I can use in lieu of the GS-02? The sensor itself is okay, it's the choice of connectors. Those are not designed for life under the hood . . . I used them INSIDE totally enclosed appliances and even then, they're secured mechanically against vibration induced disconnect. I designed that line of sensors into B&C's standby alternator controller decades ago and it has performed well. But you do need to solder the leads on . . . and Grand Rapids would do well by their customers to rethink their choice of attachment. B&C ships the sensor with lead wires already installed. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
At 11:34 AM 5/17/2017, you wrote: > >Pictures attached... Okay, I think I know what your problem might be. The LEDS in the design are not mounted on the board and leadwires out to panel mounted LEDS are subject to noise ingress and premature tripping of the stall limiter. Just for grins, try mounting some LEDS right on the board and remove the long lead wires. In the time since I sketched that idea out, I've incorporated some new technologies into similar applications . . . micro-processors. That IVO prop current limiter could be easily redesigned to eliminate the naturally 'twitchy' latching system I used on the original design . . . gee . . . how long has that been? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
From: "kfav8r" <kfav8r(at)outlook.com>
Date: May 18, 2017
I'll give that a shot, Bob. Thanks. That's what everyone asks me about building this plane, "gee, how long has that been!?" :) -------- Doug Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469415#469415 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: CS-02 = POS
Date: May 18, 2017
Bob, When you say "B&C ships the sensor with lead wires already installed" are you saying that B&C sells a product like the CS-02? I looked on their website but cannot find it. Also, do you know what the metal terminal that snaps into the plug on the L60 alternator is called? B&C has EXCELLENT customer service and sent me some replacements for FREE and that is exceptionally cool however I need to by some more of these connectors for car projects I have going on however the support guy did not know the product name of the terminal. .. THANKS!!! Bill Hunter From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 6:12 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: CS-02 = POS At 10:52 AM 5/17/2017, you wrote: The Grand Rapids CS-02 is a POS!!! I bought one and while wiring it up it fell apart. The wires snap onto the ring with a plastic clip and this clip is VERY fragile. Grand Rapids replaced it for free and the second one fell apart during the assembly so I will not go that route again. Can someone please give me a suggestion for a ring type current sensor that I can use in lieu of the GS-02? The sensor itself is okay, it's the choice of connectors. Those are not designed for life under the hood . . . I used them INSIDE totally enclosed appliances and even then, they're secured mechanically against vibration induced disconnect. I designed that line of sensors into B&C's standby alternator controller decades ago and it has performed well. But you do need to solder the leads on . . . and Grand Rapids would do well by their customers to rethink their choice of attachment. B&C ships the sensor with lead wires already installed. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IVO Prop current limiter
From: "Dennis Glaeser" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com>
Date: May 18, 2017
There is no date on your circuit diagram, but my PDF has a file date of June 2010. Time flies when you are having fun :-) Dennis Glaeser (original requester for this circuit). Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469424#469424 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 18, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: CS-02 = POS
At 09:51 AM 5/18/2017, you wrote: >Bob, > >When you say "B&C ships the sensor with lead wires already >installed" are you saying that B&C sells a product like the >CS-02? I looked on their website but cannot find it. > The picture you posted appears to be the three pins on a hall-effect sensor threaded onto a current carrying conductor. We use the AmpLoc series devices similar to what I thought I see in your picture. Emacs! I can install a harness on the sensor for you if it would help. >Also, do you know what the metal terminal that snaps into the plug >on the L60 alternator is called? B&C has EXCELLENT customer service >and sent me some replacements for FREE and that is exceptionally >cool however I need to by some more of these connectors for car >projects I have going on however the support guy did not know the >product name of the terminal. I believe the generic 1/4" fast-on terminals fit those spades on the alternator. There are some un-insulated, brass terminals that fit inside a plastic housing which in turn becomes a 2-wire plug. Those terminals are uninsulated and barb on the back side that engages a latching cavity inside the plug. I've seen them as loose parts at B&C but don't know where they get them. They'd probably sell you some. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: coax splitter
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 19, 2017
I did a little more poking around online and found this device: http://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/as-2-switch/ It covers DC-600MHz and handles 30W. It sells for between $70 and $130 online. I found it on eBay, Walmart and a number of marine retailers. One big caveat, however: it requires 12VDC to operate, so in the event of total electrical failure, it won't switch. If the panel radio was the last to transmit, your handheld/backup radio would not see the antenna. That said, how likely is total electrical failure? If you want an active, automatic switching device, perhaps one that defaults to a handheld-to-antenna connection when not powered would be the best solution. Haven't found one of those yet... Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469438#469438 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 19, 2017
Subject: Tie wrapping connectors closed
I saw these in an aircraft the other day and thought the list might be interested in them. They appear to be designed to be secured with a small tie wrap. The owner was apparently using them as part of an electronic ignition harness after problems with previous connectors. Sebastien ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: magneto problems
From: "barrie" <barriegittens(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 19, 2017
Hi, I have just finished an engine install in my homebuilt and have a problem with the Mags(probably of my own doing). After starting and checking for mag a drop, the left mag somehow appears to be grounded. The engine starts ok and the left mag has the impulse so I am assuming that it was working alright to begin with. Also the right one is working just fine. [Question] I am sure that I have overlooked something but just haven't been able to figure it out. Does anybody have the magic solution? Thanks Barrie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469448#469448 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2017
From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Tie wrapping connectors closed
Sebastien; Those are "standard" thermocouple plugs and sockets which are assembled using hollow tubular rivets. The installer in this case has taken advantage of those hollow rivets to secure the male/female connector halves to each other with tie wraps. This particular style of connector uses relatively low pressure contacts and are fairly easily disconnected as they do not afford must resistance to separation so the tie wraps are probably good insurance. Kink below is one source for these. https://tinyurl.com/m98tjqe For use in an "ignition system" higher pressure, more positive, connectors such as PIDG style would be advisable. Bob McC > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> > Date: May 19, 2017 at 7:32 PM > > I saw these in an aircraft the other day and thought the list might be > interested in them. They appear to be designed to be secured with a small tie > wrap. The owner was apparently using them as part of an electronic ignition > harness after problems with previous connectors. > > Sebastien > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Keen <john(at)johnkeen.com.au>
Subject: Mag switch
Date: May 20, 2017
Hi, The toggle switches shown in =9CMags_with_Electronic_Tach.pdf=9D - am I correct in thinking these should be DPST ON-NONE-ON? I have a push to start button and an electronic tach, and impulse coupler to both mags so the lower diagram is exactly my setup. Cheers, John. John Keen 0412 141 833 15 Scott St Scone NSW Australia 2337 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: magneto problems
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Date: May 19, 2017
Are you certain that you had the engine at TDC on the compression stroke when you installed the left mag? You can get your symptoms if the mag is installed on the non-firing stroke. On 5/19/2017 5:14 PM, barrie wrote: > > Hi, I have just finished an engine install in my homebuilt and have a problem with the Mags(probably of my own doing). After starting and checking for mag a drop, the left mag somehow appears to be grounded. The engine starts ok and the left mag has the impulse so I am assuming that it was working alright to begin with. Also the right one is working just fine. [Question] I am sure that I have overlooked something but just haven't been able to figure it out. Does anybody have the magic solution? > Thanks > Barrie > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469448#469448 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: magneto problems
From: "barrie" <barriegittens(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 19, 2017
Yes, positive. I took a lot of care when doing the installation Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469452#469452 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Grounding On A Composite Airplane
Date: May 19, 2017
Greetings, I have a question about the grounding cables of this in construction design. I have two independent electrical systems each with a heavy gauge cable that connects the respective NEG pole of the battery to the engine block/starter motor case and the questions are: Do I need a ground cable to connect the two NEG sides together or is the big cables that connect the respective batteries to the engine block/starter sufficient? If you do recommend a ground interconnect what size cable should I have considering that one battery is mounted under the rear seat and the other is mounted in the nose? -------------------------ADDITIONAL INFORMATION------------------------------------ The airplane is a Velocity (composite pusher) with a TIO-540 engine (7.3 compression) and a 12 VDC dual battery/dual independent electrical systems. The "RED" system is an independent system that is powered by an SD-20 and a BNC BC116-1 battery mounted under the rear seat The POS cable is AWG 2 and runs from battery + to the battery contactor mounted under the rear seat. The other pole of the contactor is mounted to a copper bus bar that is the BUS TIE. The NEG cable is AWG 2 and runs directly from the battery (-) pole to a stud on the starter motor. There is a AWG 8 cable that connects the engine block to a rear firewall bus bar (copper bar). The alternator cable and the bus feed are 8 AWG wire. The RED system just powers the following: -Pilot side EFIS -Plasma III ignition system -Taxi light. The "GREEN" system is an independent system that is powered by a L60 and a BNC BC116-1 battery mounted in the nose. The POS cable is AWG 2 and runs from battery + to the battery contactor mounted in the nose and then another AWG 2 cable connects the battery contactor to the BUS TIE mounted on a copper bus bar mounted under the rear seat. The NEG cable is AWG 2 and runs from the battery (-) pole directly to the stud on the engine block. There is a AWG 8 cable that connects the battery (-) pole to the nose/avionics firewall bus bar (copper bar). The GREEN system powers the following: -Copilot EFIS -Plasma III ignition system -All other electrical loads The BUS TIE contactor is mounted under the rear seat and one pole is the GEEEN system power feed cable and the other pole is connected to the copper bus bar that the connects the RED system battery contactor and the starter contactor. The starter contactor has a 2 AWG cable that connects the starter contactor to the starter motor. .. THANKS!!! Bill Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Ciolino" <JohnCiolino(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: magneto problems
Date: May 20, 2017
Barrie, You probably used shielded wire for the P-lead. Check that the shield wire is not touching the terminal. John Ciolino Bearhawk Patrol -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of barrie Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 8:14 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: magneto problems --> Hi, I have just finished an engine install in my homebuilt and have a problem with the Mags(probably of my own doing). After starting and checking for mag a drop, the left mag somehow appears to be grounded. The engine starts ok and the left mag has the impulse so I am assuming that it was working alright to begin with. Also the right one is working just fine. [Question] I am sure that I have overlooked something but just haven't been able to figure it out. Does anybody have the magic solution? Thanks Barrie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469448#469448 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2017
From: <joerhenry(at)suddenlink.net>
Subject: magneto problems
It can be difficult to time a mag with an impulse coupling. The impulse coupling must be disengaged or the timing will be incorrect. You should turn the prop in direction of rotation enough to hear the coupling snap. Then you can turn backwards to set the timing advance but not so much to reset the impulse coupling. jrh ---- John Ciolino wrote: > > Barrie, > > You probably used shielded wire for the P-lead. Check that the shield wire > is not touching the terminal. > > John Ciolino > Bearhawk Patrol > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of barrie > Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 8:14 PM > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: AeroElectric-List: magneto problems > > --> > > Hi, I have just finished an engine install in my homebuilt and have a > problem with the Mags(probably of my own doing). After starting and checking > for mag a drop, the left mag somehow appears to be grounded. The engine > starts ok and the left mag has the impulse so I am assuming that it was > working alright to begin with. Also the right one is working just fine. > [Question] I am sure that I have overlooked something but just haven't been > able to figure it out. Does anybody have the magic solution? > Thanks > Barrie > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469448#469448 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: magneto problems
From: "barrie" <barriegittens(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 20, 2017
Just got back from the aircraft. Timing is on the #1 compression stroke and the p leads are not grounding at the terminals. I'm just wondering if the engine would start right up on the right mag and the left one isn't working at all [Question] Thinking back when we originally started the engine it fired right up but after going over the system I did put the bridge in place to ground the right mag when starting. The next startup did take a bit of cranking and I think that it caught just when the starter was released(not sure about that). I guess what I am asking is would the engine start even without impulse. If not I will still be scratching my head. Barrie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469463#469463 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: magneto problems
From: "barrie" <barriegittens(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 20, 2017
Hi Kelly & John, Got it :D Had a short on the p lead where it enters the mag. The wire was exposed and grounding on the shield. Thank's for the input. Barrie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=469465#469465 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2017
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Tie wrapping connectors closed
At 07:47 PM 5/19/2017, you wrote: >Sebastien; > >Those are "standard" thermocouple plugs and sockets which are >assembled using hollow tubular rivets. The installer in this case >has taken advantage of those hollow rivets to secure the male/female >connector halves to each other with tie wraps. This particular style >of connector uses relatively low pressure contacts and are fairly >easily disconnected as they do not afford must resistance to >separation so the tie wraps are probably good insurance. Kink below >is one source for these. > >https://tinyurl.com/m98tjqe > >For use in an "ignition system" higher pressure, more positive, >connectors such as PIDG style would be advisable. > >Bob McC Agreed. Additionally, the wire-to-connector fastening is accomplished with little screws and clamp plates. See: http://tinyurl.com/lvu596p I wouldn't use these for anything other than their intended purpose . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt>
Subject: Flaps system tripping the circuit breaker
Date: May 21, 2017
One of my aviator friends called me to help him solving a problem in his RV-7 flaps system. He told me that occasionally, when he retracts the flaps, the correspondent Circuit Breaker trips. But not always, so he resets the CB and the flaps keep working normally. I asked him to measure the current during the flaps movement, and he measured 1 to 2 A when extending and when retracting, but he noticed that after full retraction the current went to 7 A. That explains why the CB (5A) trips. I think most of you know that the flaps system in an RV airplane is powered by an electric motor with 2 wires, which make the flaps work in both senses, just with reversing the electrons movement on those 2 wires. You also probably know that the motor doesn't stop at both ends if you don't release the switch, so the motor keeps turning even when the flaps reach full extension and full retraction. Now the question: which can be the reason for the current peak that the motor is reaching at full retraction? Any help welcome Thanks Carlos ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2017
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flaps system tripping the circuit breaker
Due to the mostly vertical orientation of the motor, the grease in the bearings will sometime migrate down onto the commutator/brush area of the armature. This is a common issue. It requires removal and disassembly of the motor to clean the grease off the armature and re-grease the bearings. Charlie -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 5/21/17, Carlos Trigo wrote: Subject: AeroElectric-List: Flaps system tripping the circuit breaker To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com Date: Sunday, May 21, 2017, 5:47 AM One of my aviator friends called me to help him solving a problem in his RV-7 flaps system.He told me that occasionally, when he retracts the flaps, the correspondent Circuit Breaker trips. But not always, so he resets the CB and the flaps keep working normally. I asked him to measure the current during the flaps movement, and he measured 1 to 2 A when extending and when retracting, but he noticed that after full retraction the current went to 7 A.That explains why the CB (5A) trips. I think most of you know that the flaps system in an RV airplane is powered by an electric motor with 2 wires, which make the flaps work in both


April 25, 2017 - May 21, 2017

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