AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-oj
May 09, 2018 - May 21, 2018
As for antenna grounding, I would stick with the manufacturer's
instructions. For example:
>From COMANT
Aircraft Skin Surface and Mounting Preparation
The electrical bonding of the antenna to the aircraft ground is highly
important. If this is not done properly, antenna performance
characteristics may become distorted and nulls may appear in the antenna
radiation pattern. This, in turn, may cause erratic navigational readings
or signal drop out. The electrical bonding of the antennas to the aircraft
skin is best accomplished by direct *metal-to metal contact of the antenna
base to the aircraft skin*. To accomplish this, *the aircraft paint in the
mounting area will need to be removed* and the surface alodined to protect
aluminum against corrosion. An alternate method for providing electrical
bonding is through the mounting screws, which attach to a backing plate
inside the aircraft skin. Remove any interior paint in the area where the
backing plate is placed to assure a good ground. Coat this area with
alodine to minimize corrosion. To test the electrical bonding of the blade
to the aircraft, a reading of .003 ohms between the antenna base plate and
ground should be achieved.
>From RAMI
CLEAN METAL SURFACE FOR GOOD GROUND CONNECTION
=8B
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 8:00 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> I'm not sure who asked the question...
>
> You DO NOT remove paint from the exterior of the plane.
> You do need a GOOD electrical connection between the antenna and the plan
e
> to create a Ground Plane.
> I have found many antennas be painted or powder coated which
> reduces/elininates the electrical contact area.
> My trick is to make sure the Mounting Hole Area of the antenna makes a
> good electrical ground connection with the Screws.
> To do this I remove the paint INSIDE of the screw counter-sink. I do thi
s
> with a 100 deg counter-sink tool.
> The next part of the trick to to make the through hole on the Plane a nic
e
> small tight fit so the screw has to be SCREWED into/through the skin.
> As for the interior primer... It is a Paint primer or Chem-Film Primer?
> Paint - YES, it has to be removed ONLY in the area around screws. NOT th
e
> entire area.
> Chem-Film - NO, it does not have to be remove UNLESS it is VERY dark in
> color. Darker Chem-Film can be insulation.
> Not sure which level you have? REMOVE IT! Using Scotch Brite. Again,
> you only need the area around the screw for the diameter of the washer/lo
ck
> washer.
> You can do a simple check to the quality of your work by taking a
> resistance reading from the antenna to a remote part of the plane. ZERO
> OHMS is what you are looking for.
> After you are all done with the mounting and testing you can paint over
> the external screw heads sealing off moisture.
> As for the area around the external antenna mount... Do what the
> manufacture recommends - gasket and/or RTV.
> I like using RTV as a sealant even with a gasket.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 12:42 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> At 10:04 AM 5/8/2018, you wrote:
>>
>> I am installing two new antennae - one Comant 122 for comm and one
>> standard ball tipped 3 inch transponder=type for an Echo UAT.
>> I am retaining two older antennae - one comm and one transponder. The
>> real estate for mounting is limited since they are all mounted on the
>> fuselage underside of an RV-8. I should be able to come close to the
>> desired one meter separation between all antennae.
>> My question is - do I need to remove exterior paint and interior primer
>> paint at the mounting location of the new antennae? Or is the mounting
>> screw contact sufficient to connect with the ground plane? I will, of
>> course, have a doubler for mounting each antenna.
>> Thanks
>> Stan Sutterfield
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://goo.gl/skAS8R
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
I have seen these referred to as "relay terminals." I think they might be
categorized that way on Mouser.
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:35 AM, Charlie England
wrote:
> I've got (or had; not sure) a string of those in a junk box somewhere that
> I bought when I was roughly college age & didn't know better, about 45
> years ago. I have no desire to locate them again. :-) Similar products I
> found talk about 'low insertion force', which is kinda bothersome; makes me
> question whether they will stay tight enough to avoid fretting and
> corrosion if they remain loose enough to move under vibration. Plus you
> need a dedicated crimper for those.
>
> Have you tried a regular Faston terminal on your widget? The specs
> indicate that they fit a typical 1/4" blade terminal. If you can slip a
> standard Faston in the body of your widget, and you properly support the
> wire leaving the widget, there's an unmeasurably small risk of one coming
> off, regardless of the 'latch' feature.
>
> FWIW...
>
> Charlie
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 10:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraft
>> spruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
>> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom to
>> keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Antennae |
| From: | "speedy11" <speedy11(at)aol.com> |
Excellent info.
Thanks to everyone.
Stan Sutterfield
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479989#479989
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Antennae |
Sebastien:
So, how does my instructions differ from the manufactures?
>From your re-post of there instructions their very first line states: "Th
e
electrical bonding of the antenna to the aircraft ground is highly
important." Electrical Bonding!
Of course the good physical bonding is done by the four (4) mounting screws
.
What you have to realize the Manufacture is ONLY interested in THEIR part
and involvement and will tell you what is in their extreme in covering
their ars! They don't care about your paint job! Also, many of the
mounting bases come with a rubber gasket to keep moisture out. So, what
happens to the BARE aluminum under the rubber gasket? Or better yet, what
happens to the electrical bonding under the gasket?
The answer is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING! Nothing electrical!!!
Nothing since the electrical ground bonding happens at the screw holes.
NOW! Let's talk a composite plane... There you have to make a Ground
Plane. But, that is accomplished by a metal plate UNDER, which can be
considered INSIDE the skin of the plane.
SO! How does that differ from leaving the paint ON the plane,
counter-boring the INSULATED screws holes on the antenna - Making the
screws contact the skin by screwing snugly through the skin
and finishing with a doubler, washers, star-washers and a locking nut?
Oh, notice on the Manufacture's instructions they use a counter-sink
washer?
What is that washer made of? Steel.
Why do they use the counter-sink washer? To cut into the paint/power
coating.
What happens when you mix Steel, Aluminum and Stainless Steel and Water?
Corrosion. Add a little SOAP and/or SALT and you have Galvanic Action.
What else happens when you have the SPACE between the Screw and the
Antenna? You just created an access point for the elements.
Take a look at older planes on the flightline. You will notice the BASE of
the antennas; the paint/powder coating is peeling up?
What do you think caused that? Read all above.
Also, the Manufacture's last capitalized line reads: CLEAN METAL SURFACE
FOR GOOD GROUND CONNECTION
and is repeated again with RED underlining.
It does NOT say the entire area under the antenna.
Barry
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 12:54 PM, Sebastien wrote:
> Barry, default text size setting should be normal, yours is set to large.
> Normal is fine for most of us and for anyone that needs larger can do so
at
> their end.
>
> As for antenna grounding, I would stick with the manufacturer's
> instructions. For example:
>
> From COMANT
>
> Aircraft Skin Surface and Mounting Preparation
> The electrical bonding of the antenna to the aircraft ground is highly
> important. If this is not done properly, antenna performance
> characteristics may become distorted and nulls may appear in the antenna
> radiation pattern. This, in turn, may cause erratic navigational readings
> or signal drop out. The electrical bonding of the antennas to the aircraf
t
> skin is best accomplished by direct *metal-to metal contact of the
> antenna base to the aircraft skin*. To accomplish this, *the aircraft
> paint in the mounting area will need to be removed* and the surface
> alodined to protect aluminum against corrosion. An alternate method for
> providing electrical bonding is through the mounting screws, which attach
> to a backing plate inside the aircraft skin. Remove any interior paint in
> the area where the backing plate is placed to assure a good ground. Coat
> this area with alodine to minimize corrosion. To test the electrical
> bonding of the blade to the aircraft, a reading of .003 ohms between the
> antenna base plate and ground should be achieved.
>
> From RAMI
>
> CLEAN METAL SURFACE FOR GOOD GROUND CONNECTION
>
>
> =8B
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 8:00 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure who asked the question...
>>
>> You DO NOT remove paint from the exterior of the plane.
>> You do need a GOOD electrical connection between the antenna and the
>> plane to create a Ground Plane.
>> I have found many antennas be painted or powder coated which
>> reduces/elininates the electrical contact area.
>> My trick is to make sure the Mounting Hole Area of the antenna makes a
>> good electrical ground connection with the Screws.
>> To do this I remove the paint INSIDE of the screw counter-sink. I do
>> this with a 100 deg counter-sink tool.
>> The next part of the trick to to make the through hole on the Plane a
>> nice small tight fit so the screw has to be SCREWED into/through the ski
n.
>> As for the interior primer... It is a Paint primer or Chem-Film Primer?
>> Paint - YES, it has to be removed ONLY in the area around screws. NOT
>> the entire area.
>> Chem-Film - NO, it does not have to be remove UNLESS it is VERY dark in
>> color. Darker Chem-Film can be insulation.
>> Not sure which level you have? REMOVE IT! Using Scotch Brite. Again,
>> you only need the area around the screw for the diameter of the washer/l
ock
>> washer.
>> You can do a simple check to the quality of your work by taking a
>> resistance reading from the antenna to a remote part of the plane. ZERO
>> OHMS is what you are looking for.
>> After you are all done with the mounting and testing you can paint over
>> the external screw heads sealing off moisture.
>> As for the area around the external antenna mount... Do what the
>> manufacture recommends - gasket and/or RTV.
>> I like using RTV as a sealant even with a gasket.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>>
>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 12:42 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>
>>> At 10:04 AM 5/8/2018, you wrote:
>>>
>>> I am installing two new antennae - one Comant 122 for comm and one
>>> standard ball tipped 3 inch transponder=type for an Echo UAT.
>>> I am retaining two older antennae - one comm and one transponder. The
>>> real estate for mounting is limited since they are all mounted on the
>>> fuselage underside of an RV-8. I should be able to come close to the
>>> desired one meter separation between all antennae.
>>> My question is - do I need to remove exterior paint and interior primer
>>> paint at the mounting location of the new antennae? Or is the mounting
>>> screw contact sufficient to connect with the ground plane? I will, of
>>> course, have a doubler for mounting each antenna.
>>> Thanks
>>> Stan Sutterfield
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://goo.gl/skAS8R
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
| From: | C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com> |
Yes the tin plated version works well in many nylon shells for relays
and even older ND alternators.
In the past I've purchased as few as 10 at a time from digi-key.
Where feasible I prefer to toss the nylon shell and use PIDG connectors
which I find easier to satisfactorily crimp. especially with the thin
insulation on milspec wire.
Ken
On 09/05/2018 1:47 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
> I have seen these referred to as "relay terminals." I think they might
> be categorized that way on Mouser.
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:35 AM, Charlie England > wrote:
>
> I've got (or had; not sure) a string of those in a junk box
> somewhere that I bought when I was roughly college age & didn't
> know better, about 45 years ago. I have no desire to locate them
> again. :-) Similar products I found talk about 'low insertion
> force', which is kinda bothersome; makes me question whether they
> will stay tight enough to avoid fretting and corrosion if they
> remain loose enough to move under vibration. Plus you need a
> dedicated crimper for those.
>
> Have you tried a regular Faston terminal on your widget? The specs
> indicate that they fit a typical 1/4" blade terminal. If you can
> slip a standard Faston in the body of your widget, and you
> properly support the wire leaving the widget, there's an
> unmeasurably small risk of one coming off, regardless of the
> 'latch' feature.
>
> FWIW...
>
> Charlie
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 10:22 PM, Art Zemon > wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals?
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
> <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php>
> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the
> bottom to keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>
>
> Thanks,
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for
> myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Antennae |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Barry has the technique correct. I don't know why Comant even recites
the paint removal method. Removing aircraft exterior paint for grounding
is just asking for corrosion. Read their alternate method included in
your quote.
Normally one fabricates a doubler plate to go on the inside of the skin.
Nutplates are riveted to the doubler. You can scuff the inside skin for
grounding, or you can just use 4-6 rivets to flush rivet the doubler to
the aircraft skin. Either way, the ground path is through the screws and
the doubler should make good ground contact to the screws and the airframe.
That is the technique I used for both of the CI-122s I have on my RV,
and get excellent reception and no complaints on transmit.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 5/9/2018 9:54 AM, Sebastien wrote:
> Barry, default text size setting should be normal, yours is set to
> large. Normal is fine for most of us and for anyone that needs larger
> can do so at their end.
>
> As for antenna grounding, I would stick with the manufacturer's
> instructions. For example:
>
> From COMANT
>
> An alternate
> method for providing electrical bonding is through the mounting screws,
> which attach to a backing plate inside the aircraft skin. Remove any
> interior paint in the area where the backing plate is placed to assure a
> good ground. Coat this area with alodine to minimize corrosion. To test
> the electrical bonding of the blade to the aircraft, a reading of .003
> ohms between the antenna base plate and ground should be achieved.
>
> From RAMI
>
> CLEAN METAL SURFACE FOR GOOD GROUND CONNECTION
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bus bar materials |
>
>That's good to know. I have a whole boatload of scrap aluminum.
>
>When you say "dope," do you mean dielectric
>grease like this:=C2
>https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-3-3-oz-Technician-Grade-Diel
ectric-Grease-05113/206843029
>?
I checked the SDS on this stuff . . . it's a very
close cousin to the Dow Corning product I mentioned.
It would be fine.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody using Shorai batteries/BMS? |
What did you have charging this battery, Allan?=C2- What sort of environm
ent did it live in?Like any other technology, these batteries have their be
nefits and caveats.=C2- Without more information, it is as easy to say, "
Allan didn't install it properly" as it is to say "Shorai sux!"
Two thing that are on the short list of not to do with a lithium battery:1)
Install in a high temp environment.2) Charge with a source that produces s
pikes larger than 16V.
On Tuesday, May 8, 2018 8:07 PM, Allan Aaron wrote:
For what its worth, I had a Shorai, lasted 6 months of light duty use then
started bulging and died.=C2- Since it failed more than 12 months after p
urchase, the vendor would not replace it.=C2- I bought an EarthX and it h
as been great. I wouldn't touch another Shorai.=C2-
Allan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Art:
I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specific
specs?
As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all
different practices.
But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current
practice.
Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
Sharp Edges
UN-INSULATED
Grip Support of the wire insulation.
No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are
experimental.
Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
Barry
On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.
> aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom to
> keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>
>
> Thanks,
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bus bar materials |
At 09:34 AM 5/9/2018, you wrote:
>Art:
>
>The term is Electrical DUCK Grease; it is just the opposite of
>Dielectric Grease.
We're talking different materials that serve
two different purposes. There are useful materials to
add to joints in rigid components common to high
power technologies like submarines, sub-stations
etc. These not only exclude moisture, they contain
electrically conductive enhancements for crossing
voids that cannot be closed with tension in the
bolts.
Then there are treatments intended to fill tiny gaps
between mated surfaces to prevent ingress of water/oxygen
that progressively degrades the joint. I have a tube
of Dow Corning DC4 that has lasted about 40 years
. . . it doesn't take much. It's used to thinly coat
mating surfaces of DUCTILE terminals. Any DC4 caught
in the squash on the two metals is simply extruded out.
But the tiniest voids in the interface will remain
completely filled with DC4. Other, non-reactive
materials would work too. Axle grease is better
than nothing. The CRC product cited is good.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Antennae |
>Also, the Manufacture's last capitalized=C2 line
>reads:=C2 CLEAN METAL SURFACE FOR GOOD GROUND CONNECTION
>and is repeated again with RED underlining.
>It does NOT say the entire area under the antenna.
Which is what the 'bonding circles' around
the screw holes are about along with maximizing
compression of the various layers at each
joint. These make up gas-tight interfaces that
will repel oxygen/moisture. Again, another good
place for a bit of DC-4 around the hole before
bolting the antenna down.
Our readers don't have bonding meters and have
generally done well without them. I used to
offer one and we did sell about a dozen . . .
https://goo.gl/1X6S6b
They're based on this article I did originally for
Raytheon-Beech field techs.
https://goo.gl/grXUex
To be sure, tens of thousands of antennas have
been installed with the gaskets . . . but if
you're interested in MAINTAINING mate up
forces in the mounting bolts, sticking any
'squishy' stuff in the gap tends to degrade
those forces with age.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
educate me....
why is uninsulated bad?
What=99s the problem with the wrapover insulation support?
On May 9, 2018, at 17:11, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Art:
I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specific spe
cs?
As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all different
practices.
But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current prac
tice.
Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
Sharp Edges
UN-INSULATED
Grip Support of the wire insulation.
No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are experimen
tal.
Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
Barry
> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraftspruce.c
om/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom to k
eep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>
>
> Thanks,
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
These particular terminals are used in conjunction with
some form of plastic housing that mates with other
devices . . . like the skinny-wire connections on the
back of an alternator. The purpose of the barb on the
back is to retain the terminal in its housing.
>[]
>
>
These terminals do have both wire-grip and insulation
support. On the downside, they are not plated hence
prone to corrosion. If the terminals you're considering
are made by AMP or similar source, they're probably
a suitable alloy.
Terminals of unknown pedigree may be thinner/softer
which risks compromising the gas-tight interface with
the mating tab.
https://goo.gl/8hZ2ep
These are, of course, applied with b-crimp tools
as described.
https://goo.gl/RJuZOf
The AMP PIDG series of fast-on tabs have a
stellar track record for fast-on interconnections.
Further, they install with ratchet handled
tooling. I'd sure stick with PIDG unless there's
a compelling reason to do otherwise.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan Aaron <aaaron(at)tvp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Anybody using Shorai batteries/BMS? |
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dGhlIHNob3J0IGxpc3Qgb2Ygbm90IHRvIGRvIHdpdGggYSBsaXRoaXVtIGJhdHRlcnk6DQoxKSBJ
bnN0YWxsIGluIGEgaGlnaCB0ZW1wIGVudmlyb25tZW50Lg0KMikgQ2hhcmdlIHdpdGggYSBzb3Vy
Y2UgdGhhdCBwcm9kdWNlcyBzcGlrZXMgbGFyZ2VyIHRoYW4gMTZWLg0KDQpPbiBUdWVzZGF5LCBN
YXkgOCwgMjAxOCA4OjA3IFBNLCBBbGxhbiBBYXJvbiA8YWFhcm9uQHR2cC5jb20uYXU8bWFpbHRv
OmFhYXJvbkB0dnAuY29tLmF1Pj4gd3JvdGU6DQoNCi0tPiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMtTGlzdCBtZXNz
YWdlIHBvc3RlZCBieTogQWxsYW4gQWFyb24gPGFhYXJvbkB0dnAuY29tLmF1PG1haWx0bzphYWFy
b25AdHZwLmNvbS5hdT4+DQoNCkZvciB3aGF0IGl0cyB3b3J0aCwgSSBoYWQgYSBTaG9yYWksIGxh
c3RlZCA2IG1vbnRocyBvZiBsaWdodCBkdXR5IHVzZSB0aGVuIHN0YXJ0ZWQgYnVsZ2luZyBhbmQg
ZGllZC4gIFNpbmNlIGl0IGZhaWxlZCBtb3JlIHRoYW4gMTIgbW9udGhzIGFmdGVyIHB1cmNoYXNl
LCB0aGUgdmVuZG9yIHdvdWxkIG5vdCByZXBsYWNlIGl0LiAgSSBib3VnaHQgYW4gRWFydGhYIGFu
ZCBpdCBoYXMgYmVlbiBncmVhdC4gSSB3b3VsZG4ndCB0b3VjaCBhbm90aGVyIFNob3JhaS4NCkFs
bGFuDQoNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Bus bar materials |
Bob,
Thanks for the info. I will opt for the CRC from the local Home Depot
instead of paying shipping for DC4.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 4:27 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 09:34 AM 5/9/2018, you wrote:
>
> Art:
>
> The term is Electrical DUCK Grease; it is just the opposite of Dielectric
> Grease.
>
>
> We're talking different materials that serve
> two different purposes. There are useful materials to
> add to joints in rigid components common to high
> power technologies like submarines, sub-stations
> etc. These not only exclude moisture, they contain
> electrically conductive enhancements for crossing
> voids that cannot be closed with tension in the
> bolts.
>
> Then there are treatments intended to fill tiny gaps
> between mated surfaces to prevent ingress of water/oxygen
> that progressively degrades the joint. I have a tube
> of Dow Corning DC4 that has lasted about 40 years
> . . . it doesn't take much. It's used to thinly coat
> mating surfaces of DUCTILE terminals. Any DC4 caught
> in the squash on the two metals is simply extruded out.
> But the tiniest voids in the interface will remain
> completely filled with DC4. Other, non-reactive
> materials would work too. Axle grease is better
> than nothing. The CRC product cited is good.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
That's exactly it. I am using these terminals with AeroRocker switches.
There is a plastic housing which holds all six (or eight) connectors,
making installation behind a panel much easier.
I tried to buy some at the local electronics emporium (Gateway Electronics)
and the owner opined that he could sell a zillion of those if only he could
find a supplier. I searched DigiKey and came up empty. After I send this
email, I will resume my search.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:23 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> These particular terminals are used in conjunction with
> some form of plastic housing that mates with other
> devices . . . like the skinny-wire connections on the
> back of an alternator. The purpose of the barb on the
> back is to retain the terminal in its housing.
>
>
> [image: []]
>
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Ahhh! Finally found them at Digi-Key:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/42282-1/A113676-ND/293293
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 9:25 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> That's exactly it. I am using these terminals with AeroRocker switches.
> There is a plastic housing which holds all six (or eight) connectors,
> making installation behind a panel much easier.
>
> I tried to buy some at the local electronics emporium (Gateway
> Electronics) and the owner opined that he could sell a zillion of those if
> only he could find a supplier. I searched DigiKey and came up empty. After
> I send this email, I will resume my search.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:23 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> These particular terminals are used in conjunction with
>> some form of plastic housing that mates with other
>> devices . . . like the skinny-wire connections on the
>> back of an alternator. The purpose of the barb on the
>> back is to retain the terminal in its housing.
>>
>>
>> [image: []]
>>
>>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
I found them on Mouser but I think you have to buy a roll of 10,000.
Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve.
On Wed, May 9, 2018, 18:31 Art Zemon wrote:
> That's exactly it. I am using these terminals with AeroRocker switches.
> There is a plastic housing which holds all six (or eight) connectors,
> making installation behind a panel much easier.
>
> I tried to buy some at the local electronics emporium (Gateway
> Electronics) and the owner opined that he could sell a zillion of those if
> only he could find a supplier. I searched DigiKey and came up empty. After
> I send this email, I will resume my search.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:23 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> These particular terminals are used in conjunction with
>> some form of plastic housing that mates with other
>> devices . . . like the skinny-wire connections on the
>> back of an alternator. The purpose of the barb on the
>> back is to retain the terminal in its housing.
>>
>>
>> [image: []]
>>
>>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall Power Lug |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
I am looking for a firewall power lug similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Firewall-Feed-Thru-Terminal-Connector/dp/B0038O2CIS
What I would like though is something that is also fireproof or at least fire resistance.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480013#480013
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
Why not just run your cable through a grommet in the firewall?
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Wed, May 9, 2018, 10:02 PM kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking for a firewall power lug similar to this:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Firewall-Feed-Thru-Terminal-Connector/dp/B0038O2CIS
>
> What I would like though is something that is also fireproof or at least
> fire resistance.
>
> Can anyone point me in the right direction?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: TyWraps redux |
FWF I used a lot of flat lace along with some adel clamps and I'm really
happy with the way it turned out. I have some pictures here:
http://www.rv8.ch/fwf-wiring-photos/
I also did some testing with a good heat gun on the lace to make sure that
I understood how it would behave if it got really hot - I was impressed.
It basically didn't seem to care, and I could not get it to melt or change
state in any way with the heat gun that will cause Tefzel wiring to finally
melt and smoke.
In parallel, I bought some Nomex lace, which also does not care about
getting cooked by a heat gun, and will probably add this next to the normal
lace in places that might be exposed to additional heat from the exhaust
pipes. Will give some feedback in a few years when I'm finally flying. :)
Not sure why, but working with the lace was very satisfying.
Mickey Coggins
On Wed, 9 May 2018 at 18:14, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> Good point Bob...
>
> In general BLACK Ty-Wraps are UV and Ozone proof. The white ones become
> brittle with time and exposure.
> SOME - not all colored Ty-Wraps may also work.
>
> One might even find notes on the Ty-Wrap packaging as to UV & Ozone
> resistant.
>
> Barry
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>
>>
>>
>> In a recent thread, TyWraps were discussed as a solution
>> for wire bundle management. We had some discussions on
>> these products about ten years back . . .
>>
>> In years since, I've had occasion to throw out stocks
>> of unused TyWraps given that they had become brittle with
>> age . . . the buckles would snap off in the ordinary process
>> of applying the wrap.
>>
>> Be aware that not all that is plastic is Nylon 6,6. Evolved
>> over the last 80+ years by DuPont. This material and its
>> close cousins have found their way into all manner of component,
>> many of which perform in under-hood environment of automobiles.
>>
>> When purchasing these critters, look for a 6-6, 6/6, 66 or even
>> a 6,6 description of the nylon. The last time I was in Harbor
>> Freight, many of their offerings bore such markings . . . but
>> some did not . . . especially the smaller ones in assorted colors.
>>
>> All the wraps I pitched a few years ago were smaller sizes
>> in various colors. Some had been in my Dad's inventory for untold
>> years and were literally falling apart.
>>
>> My favorite bundle security uses Dacron flat lace applied
>> like so . . .
>>
>> https://goo.gl/H3z1EQ
>>
>> Did a job for a rancher friend yesterday where the wiring was
>> installed and initially held in place with some TyWraps he had
>> laying around . . . after it was up and running, I dug out the
>> roll of flat lace and installed a wrap adjacent to each of the
>> TyWraps. Those plastic thingies MIGHT fall off in a few years
>> but I'm betting the string will still be on duty.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>> ===================================
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Not only is flammability a concern for the Amazon feed-through terminal, but it
also appears that the plastic gets compressed as the bolt is tightened. Many
plastics will flow over time, thus allowing the electrical connection to loosen.
Might be OK if tightened at each annual. Some switches also fail that have
plastic being compressed by current-conducting rivets.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480022#480022
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 5/9/2018 9:49 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking for a firewall power lug similar to this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Firewall-Feed-Thru-Terminal-Connector/dp/B0038O2CIS
>
> What I would like though is something that is also fireproof or at least fire
resistance.
>
> Can anyone point me in the right direction?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
Search for 'ceramic insulating washer', 'ceramic shoulder washer',
'alumina washer', etc.
You can roll your own pass through with a brass bolt & nut, a male
ceramic shoulder washer, and a ceramic flat washer. Here are examples of
what you need. *Not* the exact sizes (you'll need to decide that); just
examples of what they look like.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-10mm-14mm-20mm-OD-High-Temperature-Resistant-Male-Ceramic-Insulate-Washer-/232695504756?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=532197640760
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15mm-OD-6mm-High-Round-Ceramic-Insulated-Washer-Fender-50-Pieces-Q5N9-/253489306817?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Charlie
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
Charlie:
One thing I totally agree with Bob N. on is: Reduction of Failure Points.
Yes, using this type of feed-through would LQQK nice but you have created
three (3) failure points: One at each end of the feed-through and the
freed-through mounting itself. Oh, wait, there are two (2) more potential
failure points; The lugs that go to each end of the wires.
Why not a un-broken run of cable and a better type of feed-through?
I would look for a nice LQQKing feed-through fitting - Water Tight Fitting.
Something like this:
https://www.grainger.com/product/2HYA5?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166591489617!!!g!81031653477!&ef_id=WuocMQAABn_Z5xGW:20180510175458:s
They also come in S/S.
Barry
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 10:40 AM, Charlie England
wrote:
> ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
>
> On 5/9/2018 9:49 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am looking for a firewall power lug similar to this:
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Firewall-Feed-Thru-Terminal-
>> Connector/dp/B0038O2CIS
>>
>> What I would like though is something that is also fireproof or at least
>> fire resistance.
>>
>> Can anyone point me in the right direction?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> Search for 'ceramic insulating washer', 'ceramic shoulder washer',
> 'alumina washer', etc.
>
> You can roll your own pass through with a brass bolt & nut, a male ceramic
> shoulder washer, and a ceramic flat washer. Here are examples of what you
> need. *Not* the exact sizes (you'll need to decide that); just examples of
> what they look like.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-10mm-14mm-20mm-OD-High-Temperat
> ure-Resistant-Male-Ceramic-Insulate-Washer-/232695504756?
> _trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=532197640760
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/15mm-OD-6mm-High-Round-Ceramic-Insu
> lated-Washer-Fender-50-Pieces-Q5N9-/253489306817?_trksid
> p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
>
> Charlie
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TyWraps redux |
Nice LQQKing job OM.
Would like to see more.
Barry
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 2:14 AM, Mickey Coggins
wrote:
> FWF I used a lot of flat lace along with some adel clamps and I'm really
> happy with the way it turned out. I have some pictures here:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/fwf-wiring-photos/
>
> I also did some testing with a good heat gun on the lace to make sure that
> I understood how it would behave if it got really hot - I was impressed.
> It basically didn't seem to care, and I could not get it to melt or change
> state in any way with the heat gun that will cause Tefzel wiring to finally
> melt and smoke.
>
> In parallel, I bought some Nomex lace, which also does not care about
> getting cooked by a heat gun, and will probably add this next to the normal
> lace in places that might be exposed to additional heat from the exhaust
> pipes. Will give some feedback in a few years when I'm finally flying. :)
>
> Not sure why, but working with the lace was very satisfying.
>
> Mickey Coggins
>
>
> On Wed, 9 May 2018 at 18:14, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
>> Good point Bob...
>>
>> In general BLACK Ty-Wraps are UV and Ozone proof. The white ones become
>> brittle with time and exposure.
>> SOME - not all colored Ty-Wraps may also work.
>>
>> One might even find notes on the Ty-Wrap packaging as to UV & Ozone
>> resistant.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>
>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> In a recent thread, TyWraps were discussed as a solution
>>> for wire bundle management. We had some discussions on
>>> these products about ten years back . . .
>>>
>>> In years since, I've had occasion to throw out stocks
>>> of unused TyWraps given that they had become brittle with
>>> age . . . the buckles would snap off in the ordinary process
>>> of applying the wrap.
>>>
>>> Be aware that not all that is plastic is Nylon 6,6. Evolved
>>> over the last 80+ years by DuPont. This material and its
>>> close cousins have found their way into all manner of component,
>>> many of which perform in under-hood environment of automobiles.
>>>
>>> When purchasing these critters, look for a 6-6, 6/6, 66 or even
>>> a 6,6 description of the nylon. The last time I was in Harbor
>>> Freight, many of their offerings bore such markings . . . but
>>> some did not . . . especially the smaller ones in assorted colors.
>>>
>>> All the wraps I pitched a few years ago were smaller sizes
>>> in various colors. Some had been in my Dad's inventory for untold
>>> years and were literally falling apart.
>>>
>>> My favorite bundle security uses Dacron flat lace applied
>>> like so . . .
>>>
>>> https://goo.gl/H3z1EQ
>>>
>>> Did a job for a rancher friend yesterday where the wiring was
>>> installed and initially held in place with some TyWraps he had
>>> laying around . . . after it was up and running, I dug out the
>>> roll of flat lace and installed a wrap adjacent to each of the
>>> TyWraps. Those plastic thingies MIGHT fall off in a few years
>>> but I'm betting the string will still be on duty.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>> ==========
>>> -
>>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.
>>> matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
I use the flanged stainless tube feed-through, with fire caulk &
firesleeve, detailed in the 'Connection and elsewhere.
Since he asked specifically for a bulkhead feed-through for a 'fat'
power wire, I assumed he had made his choice of method and I was trying
to give him an idea that would work and be fire resistant. Your option
has the same vulnerabilities to heat as the original linked article.
Charlie
On 5/10/2018 12:57 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> Charlie:
>
> One thing I totally agree with Bob N. on is: Reduction of Failure Points.
> Yes, using this type of feed-through would LQQK nice but you have
> created three (3) failure points: One at each end of the feed-through
> and the freed-through mounting itself. Oh, wait, there are two (2)
> more potential failure points; The lugs that go to each end of the wires.
> Why not a un-broken run of cable and a better type of feed-through?
>
> I would look for a nice LQQKing feed-through fitting - Water Tight
> Fitting.
> Something like this:
> https://www.grainger.com/product/2HYA5?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166591489617!!!g!81031653477!&ef_id=WuocMQAABn_Z5xGW:20180510175458:s
>
>
> They also come in S/S.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 10:40 AM, Charlie England
> > wrote:
>
> >
>
> On 5/9/2018 9:49 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> >
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking for a firewall power lug similar to this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Firewall-Feed-Thru-Terminal-Connector/dp/B0038O2CIS
>
>
> What I would like though is something that is also fireproof
> or at least fire resistance.
>
> Can anyone point me in the right direction?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> Search for 'ceramic insulating washer', 'ceramic shoulder washer',
> 'alumina washer', etc.
>
> You can roll your own pass through with a brass bolt & nut, a male
> ceramic shoulder washer, and a ceramic flat washer. Here are
> examples of what you need. *Not* the exact sizes (you'll need to
> decide that); just examples of what they look like.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-10mm-14mm-20mm-OD-High-Temperature-Resistant-Male-Ceramic-Insulate-Washer-/232695504756?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=532197640760
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/15mm-OD-6mm-High-Round-Ceramic-Insulated-Washer-Fender-50-Pieces-Q5N9-/253489306817?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
>
>
> Charlie
>
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Verwey <bob.verwey(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TyWraps redux |
Nice one! Prolly put some of those certified boys to shame!
On Thu, 10 May 2018, 8:21 AM Mickey Coggins wrote:
> FWF I used a lot of flat lace along with some adel clamps and I'm really
> happy with the way it turned out. I have some pictures here:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/fwf-wiring-photos/
>
> I also did some testing with a good heat gun on the lace to make sure that
> I understood how it would behave if it got really hot - I was impressed.
> It basically didn't seem to care, and I could not get it to melt or change
> state in any way with the heat gun that will cause Tefzel wiring to finally
> melt and smoke.
>
> In parallel, I bought some Nomex lace, which also does not care about
> getting cooked by a heat gun, and will probably add this next to the normal
> lace in places that might be exposed to additional heat from the exhaust
> pipes. Will give some feedback in a few years when I'm finally flying. :)
>
> Not sure why, but working with the lace was very satisfying.
>
> Mickey Coggins
>
>
> On Wed, 9 May 2018 at 18:14, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
>> Good point Bob...
>>
>> In general BLACK Ty-Wraps are UV and Ozone proof. The white ones become
>> brittle with time and exposure.
>> SOME - not all colored Ty-Wraps may also work.
>>
>> One might even find notes on the Ty-Wrap packaging as to UV & Ozone
>> resistant.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>
>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> In a recent thread, TyWraps were discussed as a solution
>>> for wire bundle management. We had some discussions on
>>> these products about ten years back . . .
>>>
>>> In years since, I've had occasion to throw out stocks
>>> of unused TyWraps given that they had become brittle with
>>> age . . . the buckles would snap off in the ordinary process
>>> of applying the wrap.
>>>
>>> Be aware that not all that is plastic is Nylon 6,6. Evolved
>>> over the last 80+ years by DuPont. This material and its
>>> close cousins have found their way into all manner of component,
>>> many of which perform in under-hood environment of automobiles.
>>>
>>> When purchasing these critters, look for a 6-6, 6/6, 66 or even
>>> a 6,6 description of the nylon. The last time I was in Harbor
>>> Freight, many of their offerings bore such markings . . . but
>>> some did not . . . especially the smaller ones in assorted colors.
>>>
>>> All the wraps I pitched a few years ago were smaller sizes
>>> in various colors. Some had been in my Dad's inventory for untold
>>> years and were literally falling apart.
>>>
>>> My favorite bundle security uses Dacron flat lace applied
>>> like so . . .
>>>
>>> https://goo.gl/H3z1EQ
>>>
>>> Did a job for a rancher friend yesterday where the wiring was
>>> installed and initially held in place with some TyWraps he had
>>> laying around . . . after it was up and running, I dug out the
>>> roll of flat lace and installed a wrap adjacent to each of the
>>> TyWraps. Those plastic thingies MIGHT fall off in a few years
>>> but I'm betting the string will still be on duty.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>> ==========
>>> -
>>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> WIKI -
>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> b Site -
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
At 01:17 PM 5/10/2018, you wrote:
>I use the flanged stainless tube feed-through, with fire caulk &
>firesleeve, detailed in the 'Connection and elsewhere.
Here's a comic book I published a years back
illustrating the methodology used on Bonanza
and Baron aircraft at Beech.
https://goo.gl/9vLwXF
As far as I know, they still do it this way.
A good friend and colleague of many years
at Beech was a guy named Jack Thurman. He
was dungeon and rack master at "Thurman's
House of Horrors". The well worn admonition
concerning new ideas for bolting things
to Beech products was, "If Jack can't tear
it up, it's good to go on a Beechcraft."
One of Jack's more impressive toys was a
propane fired burner (suitable for burning
really BIG weeds) that would bathe a firewall
mock-up with 2000 DegF flames. It's a certainty
that Master of Mayhem Thurman sprinkled
holy water on the techniques described above.
At one time, members here on the list were
fabricating welded, stainless elbows with
flanges from the ends of COTS grab bars.
Cutting the ends of of something like this
would get you two elbows:
https://goo.gl/6Q4jkC
Unfortunately, these are pretty 'oversized'
for our tasks . . . and stick up off the
firewall quite a bit.
One could consider fabricating from pre-bent
elbows, a flange washer cut from stainless sheet
and a short nipple of stainless tube. If you've
got access to a talented TIG driver, you could
probably come up with some pretty nice parts
sized to the task.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Alec:
In building or repairs it is always (in dreamland) the best case condition
to cover the terminals as much as possible. Well, that is what we strive
for. You might have seen rubber/silicone boots over such things as:
Connection terminals on relays.
Terminals on Alternators and even
Terminals on Mags.
Leaving terminals exposed opens up the high possibility of neighboring
terminals to contact each other, or having something like a screwdriver or
hardware drop on the terminal lug.
When talking about the Why-Not of the metal rollover tabs. They Cut Into
the insulation of the wire. This is a weak point and a breaking point of
the wire MOUNT. It is best NOT to consider this rollover tab a securing
point of the lug and consider it just a sloppy part of the electrical
crimp. Consider why they are NOT used in certified aircraft. I hate to
say this on a mainly Experimental Email Site but... Not ALL Certified
Aircraft procedures are bad, or just done to satisfy the FAA, or are
expensive just to line someones pocketbook.
There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed Insulated
Crimp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports the insulated
part of the wire. It gives it a secure holding point that DOES NOT cut
into wire.
Something else to view (look at Mil Spec Lugs) and consider: Lugs that are
NOT insulated do NOT support the wire insulation.
Over the decades I have worked in electronics I have see this type of lug
you are considering fail as the rollover part cuts into the wire
insulation. Mater of fact: The design of this type of rollover has
changed. BUT! Has not gone away!
Let the Ground Bound Clowns (Chinese Junk) that are penny pinching use
them. You are a Pilot and a Builder, your plane and you are worth it.
Barry
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> educate me....
>
> why is uninsulated bad?
> What=99s the problem with the wrapover insulation support?
>
> On May 9, 2018, at 17:11, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Art:
>
> I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specific
> specs?
> As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all
> different practices.
> But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current
> practice.
> Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
> Sharp Edges
> UN-INSULATED
> Grip Support of the wire insulation.
> No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
> Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are
> experimental.
> Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraft
>> spruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
>> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom to
>> keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
My interest in this stems more from discerning myth from measureable fact th
an trying to pick something suitable for aircraft, but I=99m afraid I d
on=99t believe any industrial manufacturer would use them for anything
at all, if they=99re even half as bad as you say. A penny saved on a t
ermination is a false economy if it decreases product reliability, and yet h
ere they are, in use in white goods the world over.
Perhaps there=99s an issue with reliable hand tool application?
On May 10, 2018, at 18:08, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Alec:
In building or repairs it is always (in dreamland) the best case condition t
o cover the terminals as much as possible. Well, that is what we strive for.
You might have seen rubber/silicone boots over such things as:
Connection terminals on relays.
Terminals on Alternators and even
Terminals on Mags.
Leaving terminals exposed opens up the high possibility of neighboring termi
nals to contact each other, or having something like a screwdriver or hardwa
re drop on the terminal lug.
When talking about the Why-Not of the metal rollover tabs. They Cut Into th
e insulation of the wire. This is a weak point and a breaking point of the w
ire MOUNT. It is best NOT to consider this rollover tab a securing point o
f the lug and consider it just a sloppy part of the electrical crimp. Consi
der why they are NOT used in certified aircraft. I hate to say this on a ma
inly Experimental Email Site but... Not ALL Certified Aircraft procedures a
re bad, or just done to satisfy the FAA, or are expensive just to line someo
nes pocketbook.
There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed Insulated Cri
mp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports the insulated part of
the wire. It gives it a secure holding point that DOES NOT cut into wire.
Something else to view (look at Mil Spec Lugs) and consider: Lugs that are N
OT insulated do NOT support the wire insulation.
Over the decades I have worked in electronics I have see this type of lug yo
u are considering fail as the rollover part cuts into the wire insulation. M
ater of fact: The design of this type of rollover has changed. BUT! Has n
ot gone away!
Let the Ground Bound Clowns (Chinese Junk) that are penny pinching use them.
You are a Pilot and a Builder, your plane and you are worth it.
Barry
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> educate me....
>
> why is uninsulated bad?
> What=99s the problem with the wrapover insulation support?
>
> On May 9, 2018, at 17:11, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Art:
>
> I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specific s
pecs?
> As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all differe
nt practices.
> But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current pr
actice.
> Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
> Sharp Edges
> UN-INSULATED
> Grip Support of the wire insulation.
> No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
> Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are experim
ental.
> Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
>
> Barry
>
>
>
>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>> Folks,
>>
>> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraftspruce.
com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
>> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom to k
eep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
| From: | "kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
Thank you everyone for the replies. My application is only for a power stud so
my preference is for something similar to what I originally posted.
I am sensitive to using plastics which is why I posted the query. I have heard
that some commercial aircraft use studs of the type I am looking for. I just don't
want the $$$ cost of "brand name aircraft parts".
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480043#480043
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
Yes, Kearney;
Piper uses studs on their battery cables and battery box.
I curse them ALL the time!
You could always make your own with Phenolic Board and Brass Bolts. You
could also use a few nuts & bolts to hold the phenolic board in-place on
the firewall and use the brass bolt & nuts to pass the power through. It
would be a much better structure than anything you could buy. And cost you
very little. And structurally, extreamly sound and water tight.
It can be either single board or double board (both sides of the firewall).
Barry
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 7:25 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Thank you everyone for the replies. My application is only for a power
> stud so my preference is for something similar to what I originally posted.
>
> I am sensitive to using plastics which is why I posted the query. I have
> heard that some commercial aircraft use studs of the type I am looking for.
> I just don't want the $$$ cost of "brand name aircraft parts".
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480043#480043
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Alec:
They are at least twice as bad as I describe. If they were so
Manufacturerlly acceptable why are they not being used or recommended by
ALL the aviation manufactures and experimental aircraft suppliers such as
RV?
As for: " A penny saved on a termination is a false economy...", PENNY
HELL! The manufactures argue tenths of a cent (1 mill)!
Your statement of HAND TOOL is spot ON! Look at the many ways those lugs
can be used and how many of those ways will NOT produce a proper crimp.
Look at the cost of a Mil-Spec Hand Tool to do the job. There is NO money
saved there.
If as you say are interested in: "...trying to pick something suitable for
aircraft..." why not go with what is an industry standard - A Proven
Industry (Aviation) Standard? YES, I know in the Experimental Aviation
world you do not have to follow a majority of the FAA requirements and you
SHOULD and have the right to do better. But what are you comparing your
experimental idea too?
Hey! Just had an idea... If you want to prove your thought process and
prove me wrong. Make a simple vibration test bench and shake the S#!+ out
of the the lug you picked and the ones the aviation industry use.
Barry
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 6:44 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> My interest in this stems more from discerning myth from measureable fact
> than trying to pick something suitable for aircraft, but I=99m afra
id I don=99t
> believe any industrial manufacturer would use them for anything at all, i
f
> they=99re even half as bad as you say. A penny saved on a terminati
on is a
> false economy if it decreases product reliability, and yet here they are,
> in use in white goods the world over.
>
> Perhaps there=99s an issue with reliable hand tool application?
>
>
> On May 10, 2018, at 18:08, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Alec:
>
> In building or repairs it is always (in dreamland) the best case conditio
n
> to cover the terminals as much as possible. Well, that is what we strive
> for. You might have seen rubber/silicone boots over such things as:
> Connection terminals on relays.
> Terminals on Alternators and even
> Terminals on Mags.
> Leaving terminals exposed opens up the high possibility of neighboring
> terminals to contact each other, or having something like a screwdriver o
r
> hardware drop on the terminal lug.
> When talking about the Why-Not of the metal rollover tabs. They Cut Into
> the insulation of the wire. This is a weak point and a breaking point of
> the wire MOUNT. It is best NOT to consider this rollover tab a securing
> point of the lug and consider it just a sloppy part of the electrical
> crimp. Consider why they are NOT used in certified aircraft. I hate to
> say this on a mainly Experimental Email Site but... Not ALL Certified
> Aircraft procedures are bad, or just done to satisfy the FAA, or are
> expensive just to line someones pocketbook.
> There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed Insulated
> Crimp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports the insulated
> part of the wire. It gives it a secure holding point that DOES NOT cut
> into wire.
> Something else to view (look at Mil Spec Lugs) and consider: Lugs that ar
e
> NOT insulated do NOT support the wire insulation.
> Over the decades I have worked in electronics I have see this type of lug
> you are considering fail as the rollover part cuts into the wire
> insulation. Mater of fact: The design of this type of rollover has
> changed. BUT! Has not gone away!
> Let the Ground Bound Clowns (Chinese Junk) that are penny pinching use
> them. You are a Pilot and a Builder, your plane and you are worth it.
>
> Barry
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
>> educate me....
>>
>> why is uninsulated bad?
>> What=99s the problem with the wrapover insulation support?
>>
>> On May 9, 2018, at 17:11, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>
>> Art:
>>
>> I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specific
>> specs?
>> As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all
>> different practices.
>> But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current
>> practice.
>> Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
>> Sharp Edges
>> UN-INSULATED
>> Grip Support of the wire insulation.
>> No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
>> Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are
>> experimental.
>> Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
>>
>> Barry
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraft
>>> spruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
>>> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom t
o
>>> keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>>
>>> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
On May 10, 2018, at 21:57, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Alec:
They are at least twice as bad as I describe. If they were so Manufacturerl
ly acceptable why are they not being used or recommended by ALL the aviation
manufactures and experimental aircraft suppliers such as RV?
As for: " A penny saved on a termination is a false economy...", PENNY HELL
! The manufactures argue tenths of a cent (1 mill)!
Your statement of HAND TOOL is spot ON! Look at the many ways those lugs ca
n be used and how many of those ways will NOT produce a proper crimp. Look a
t the cost of a Mil-Spec Hand Tool to do the job. There is NO money saved t
here.
If as you say are interested in: "...trying to pick something suitable for a
ircraft..." why not go with what is an industry standard - A Proven Industry
(Aviation) Standard? YES, I know in the Experimental Aviation world you d
o not have to follow a majority of the FAA requirements and you SHOULD and h
ave the right to do better. But what are you comparing your experimental id
ea too?
Hey! Just had an idea... If you want to prove your thought process and pro
ve me wrong. Make a simple vibration test bench and shake the S#!+ out of t
he the lug you picked and the ones the aviation industry use.
Barry
> On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 6:44 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> My interest in this stems more from discerning myth from measureable fact t
han trying to pick something suitable for aircraft, but I=99m afraid I
don=99t believe any industrial manufacturer would use them for anythi
ng at all, if they=99re even half as bad as you say. A penny saved on a
termination is a false economy if it decreases product reliability, and yet
here they are, in use in white goods the world over.
>
> Perhaps there=99s an issue with reliable hand tool application?
>
>
> On May 10, 2018, at 18:08, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Alec:
>
> In building or repairs it is always (in dreamland) the best case condition
to cover the terminals as much as possible. Well, that is what we strive fo
r. You might have seen rubber/silicone boots over such things as:
> Connection terminals on relays.
> Terminals on Alternators and even
> Terminals on Mags.
> Leaving terminals exposed opens up the high possibility of neighboring ter
minals to contact each other, or having something like a screwdriver or hard
ware drop on the terminal lug.
> When talking about the Why-Not of the metal rollover tabs. They Cut Into t
he insulation of the wire. This is a weak point and a breaking point of the
wire MOUNT. It is best NOT to consider this rollover tab a securing point
of the lug and consider it just a sloppy part of the electrical crimp. Con
sider why they are NOT used in certified aircraft. I hate to say this on a m
ainly Experimental Email Site but... Not ALL Certified Aircraft procedures a
re bad, or just done to satisfy the FAA, or are expensive just to line someo
nes pocketbook.
> There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed Insulated C
rimp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports the insulated part o
f the wire. It gives it a secure holding point that DOES NOT cut into wire.
> Something else to view (look at Mil Spec Lugs) and consider: Lugs that are
NOT insulated do NOT support the wire insulation.
> Over the decades I have worked in electronics I have see this type of lug y
ou are considering fail as the rollover part cuts into the wire insulation.
Mater of fact: The design of this type of rollover has changed. BUT! Has
not gone away!
> Let the Ground Bound Clowns (Chinese Junk) that are penny pinching use the
m. You are a Pilot and a Builder, your plane and you are worth it.
>
> Barry
>
>> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>> educate me....
>>
>> why is uninsulated bad?
>> What=99s the problem with the wrapover insulation support?
>>
>> On May 9, 2018, at 17:11, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>
>> Art:
>>
>> I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specific s
pecs?
>> As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all differ
ent practices.
>> But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current p
ractice.
>> Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
>> Sharp Edges
>> UN-INSULATED
>> Grip Support of the wire insulation.
>> No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
>> Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are experi
mental.
>> Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
>>
>> Barry
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraftspruce
.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
>>> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom to
keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>>
>>> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, wha
t am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Barry
I=99d be as happy to prove you right, as wrong. I might think about ho
w to build a vibration test, somehow :)
On May 10, 2018, at 21:57, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Alec:
They are at least twice as bad as I describe. If they were so Manufacturerl
ly acceptable why are they not being used or recommended by ALL the aviation
manufactures and experimental aircraft suppliers such as RV?
As for: " A penny saved on a termination is a false economy...", PENNY HELL
! The manufactures argue tenths of a cent (1 mill)!
Your statement of HAND TOOL is spot ON! Look at the many ways those lugs ca
n be used and how many of those ways will NOT produce a proper crimp. Look a
t the cost of a Mil-Spec Hand Tool to do the job. There is NO money saved t
here.
If as you say are interested in: "...trying to pick something suitable for a
ircraft..." why not go with what is an industry standard - A Proven Industry
(Aviation) Standard? YES, I know in the Experimental Aviation world you d
o not have to follow a majority of the FAA requirements and you SHOULD and h
ave the right to do better. But what are you comparing your experimental id
ea too?
Hey! Just had an idea... If you want to prove your thought process and pro
ve me wrong. Make a simple vibration test bench and shake the S#!+ out of t
he the lug you picked and the ones the aviation industry use.
Barry
> On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 6:44 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> My interest in this stems more from discerning myth from measureable fact t
han trying to pick something suitable for aircraft, but I=99m afraid I
don=99t believe any industrial manufacturer would use them for anythi
ng at all, if they=99re even half as bad as you say. A penny saved on a
termination is a false economy if it decreases product reliability, and yet
here they are, in use in white goods the world over.
>
> Perhaps there=99s an issue with reliable hand tool application?
>
>
> On May 10, 2018, at 18:08, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Alec:
>
> In building or repairs it is always (in dreamland) the best case condition
to cover the terminals as much as possible. Well, that is what we strive fo
r. You might have seen rubber/silicone boots over such things as:
> Connection terminals on relays.
> Terminals on Alternators and even
> Terminals on Mags.
> Leaving terminals exposed opens up the high possibility of neighboring ter
minals to contact each other, or having something like a screwdriver or hard
ware drop on the terminal lug.
> When talking about the Why-Not of the metal rollover tabs. They Cut Into t
he insulation of the wire. This is a weak point and a breaking point of the
wire MOUNT. It is best NOT to consider this rollover tab a securing point
of the lug and consider it just a sloppy part of the electrical crimp. Con
sider why they are NOT used in certified aircraft. I hate to say this on a m
ainly Experimental Email Site but... Not ALL Certified Aircraft procedures a
re bad, or just done to satisfy the FAA, or are expensive just to line someo
nes pocketbook.
> There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed Insulated C
rimp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports the insulated part o
f the wire. It gives it a secure holding point that DOES NOT cut into wire.
> Something else to view (look at Mil Spec Lugs) and consider: Lugs that are
NOT insulated do NOT support the wire insulation.
> Over the decades I have worked in electronics I have see this type of lug y
ou are considering fail as the rollover part cuts into the wire insulation.
Mater of fact: The design of this type of rollover has changed. BUT! Has
not gone away!
> Let the Ground Bound Clowns (Chinese Junk) that are penny pinching use the
m. You are a Pilot and a Builder, your plane and you are worth it.
>
> Barry
>
>> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>> educate me....
>>
>> why is uninsulated bad?
>> What=99s the problem with the wrapover insulation support?
>>
>> On May 9, 2018, at 17:11, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>
>> Art:
>>
>> I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specific s
pecs?
>> As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all differ
ent practices.
>> But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current p
ractice.
>> Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
>> Sharp Edges
>> UN-INSULATED
>> Grip Support of the wire insulation.
>> No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
>> Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are experi
mental.
>> Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
>>
>> Barry
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraftspruce
.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
>>> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom to
keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>>
>>> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, wha
t am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Maybe an electric toothbrush?
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 7:16 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
> Barry
>
> I=99d be as happy to prove you right, as wrong. I might think about
how to
> build a vibration test, somehow :)
>
> On May 10, 2018, at 21:57, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Alec:
>
> They are at least twice as bad as I describe. If they were so
> Manufacturerlly acceptable why are they not being used or recommended by
> ALL the aviation manufactures and experimental aircraft suppliers such as
> RV?
> As for: " A penny saved on a termination is a false economy...", PENNY
> HELL! The manufactures argue tenths of a cent (1 mill)!
>
> Your statement of HAND TOOL is spot ON! Look at the many ways those lugs
> can be used and how many of those ways will NOT produce a proper crimp.
> Look at the cost of a Mil-Spec Hand Tool to do the job. There is NO mone
y
> saved there.
>
> If as you say are interested in: "...trying to pick something suitable
> for aircraft..." why not go with what is an industry standard - A Proven
> Industry (Aviation) Standard? YES, I know in the Experimental Aviation
> world you do not have to follow a majority of the FAA requirements and yo
u
> SHOULD and have the right to do better. But what are you comparing your
> experimental idea too?
>
> Hey! Just had an idea... If you want to prove your thought process and
> prove me wrong. Make a simple vibration test bench and shake the S#!+ ou
t
> of the the lug you picked and the ones the aviation industry use.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 6:44 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>
>> My interest in this stems more from discerning myth from measureable fac
t
>> than trying to pick something suitable for aircraft, but I=99m afr
aid I don=99t
>> believe any industrial manufacturer would use them for anything at all,
if
>> they=99re even half as bad as you say. A penny saved on a terminat
ion is a
>> false economy if it decreases product reliability, and yet here they are
,
>> in use in white goods the world over.
>>
>> Perhaps there=99s an issue with reliable hand tool application?
>>
>>
>> On May 10, 2018, at 18:08, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>
>> Alec:
>>
>> In building or repairs it is always (in dreamland) the best case
>> condition to cover the terminals as much as possible. Well, that is what
we
>> strive for. You might have seen rubber/silicone boots over such things
as:
>> Connection terminals on relays.
>> Terminals on Alternators and even
>> Terminals on Mags.
>> Leaving terminals exposed opens up the high possibility of neighboring
>> terminals to contact each other, or having something like a screwdriver
or
>> hardware drop on the terminal lug.
>> When talking about the Why-Not of the metal rollover tabs. They Cut Int
o
>> the insulation of the wire. This is a weak point and a breaking point o
f
>> the wire MOUNT. It is best NOT to consider this rollover tab a securing
>> point of the lug and consider it just a sloppy part of the electrical
>> crimp. Consider why they are NOT used in certified aircraft. I hate to
>> say this on a mainly Experimental Email Site but... Not ALL Certified
>> Aircraft procedures are bad, or just done to satisfy the FAA, or are
>> expensive just to line someones pocketbook.
>> There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed Insulated
>> Crimp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports the insulated
>> part of the wire. It gives it a secure holding point that DOES NOT cut
>> into wire.
>> Something else to view (look at Mil Spec Lugs) and consider: Lugs that
>> are NOT insulated do NOT support the wire insulation.
>> Over the decades I have worked in electronics I have see this type of lu
g
>> you are considering fail as the rollover part cuts into the wire
>> insulation. Mater of fact: The design of this type of rollover has
>> changed. BUT! Has not gone away!
>> Let the Ground Bound Clowns (Chinese Junk) that are penny pinching use
>> them. You are a Pilot and a Builder, your plane and you are worth it.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Alec Myers wrote:
>>
>>> educate me....
>>>
>>> why is uninsulated bad?
>>> What=99s the problem with the wrapover insulation support?
>>>
>>> On May 9, 2018, at 17:11, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>>
>>> Art:
>>>
>>> I have got to ask... Are you building your experimental to any specifi
c
>>> specs?
>>> As an Experimental Builder, yes, you are allowed to experiment all
>>> different practices.
>>> But, I see no reason why all your wiring should not be the Best current
>>> practice.
>>> Those type connectors are very ancient and have all sorts of issues...
>>> Sharp Edges
>>> UN-INSULATED
>>> Grip Support of the wire insulation.
>>> No universal manufacturing procedures. Example Not Mil-Spec.
>>> Un-Acceptable Certified Design (FAA, AC 43.13) Yes, I know you are
>>> experimental.
>>> Why would you want to use something from the dark ages?
>>>
>>> Barry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 11:22 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>>
>>>> Folks,
>>>>
>>>> Does Digikey (or anyone) sell these terminals? http://www.aircraft
>>>> spruce.com/catalog/elpages/aveotabterminals.php
>>>> They are regular Faston terminals but have a little tab on the bottom
>>>> to keep them from slipping out of a plastic housing.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> -- Art Z.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>>>
>>>> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>>>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bernie <arcticarrow(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
Bob
I like these rather sophisticated through firewall fittings but they all loo
k permanent. Super Cubs have swing out mounts to access the mags and other a
ccessories on the back of the engine.
In spite of allowing extra length in cables some must be disconnected and ot
hers allowed to move in the firewall. I believe Piper used a rubber grommet f
or abrasion protection and then covered the whole area with a fireproof clay
. It never gets hard and is easily replaced. I still get it at a commercial e
lectrical supply. Any thought on this method?
Bernie
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 10, 2018, at 12:02 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroel
ectric.com> wrote:
>
> At 01:17 PM 5/10/2018, you wrote:
>> I use the flanged stainless tube feed-through, with fire caulk & fireslee
ve, detailed in the 'Connection and elsewhere.
>
> Here's a comic book I published a years back
> illustrating the methodology used on Bonanza
> and Baron aircraft at Beech.
>
> https://goo.gl/9vLwXF
>
> As far as I know, they still do it this way.
> A good friend and colleague of many years
> at Beech was a guy named Jack Thurman. He
> was dungeon and rack master at "Thurman's
> House of Horrors". The well worn admonition
> concerning new ideas for bolting things
> to Beech products was, "If Jack can't tear
> it up, it's good to go on a Beechcraft."
>
> One of Jack's more impressive toys was a
> propane fired burner (suitable for burning
> really BIG weeds) that would bathe a firewall
> mock-up with 2000 DegF flames. It's a certainty
> that Master of Mayhem Thurman sprinkled
> holy water on the techniques described above.
>
> At one time, members here on the list were
> fabricating welded, stainless elbows with
> flanges from the ends of COTS grab bars.
> Cutting the ends of of something like this
> would get you two elbows:
>
> https://goo.gl/6Q4jkC
>
> Unfortunately, these are pretty 'oversized'
> for our tasks . . . and stick up off the
> firewall quite a bit.
>
> One could consider fabricating from pre-bent
> elbows, a flange washer cut from stainless sheet
> and a short nipple of stainless tube. If you've
> got access to a talented TIG driver, you could
> probably come up with some pretty nice parts
> sized to the task.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Limiter Questions |
Art:
When you ask a question about 'are Elastic Stop Nuts being OK', you step
out of the realm of experimental into certified.
NO! Elastic Stop Nuts are not acceptable anywhere under the engine cowl.
<--- That is per a Certified Plane. Which side of the fence do you want
sit on?
Not even with star-washers under them.
Now! Is the Manufacture of the current limiter correct in supplying
Elastic Stop Nuts? Maybe? Maybe they are just being nice supplying them.
After all, they Do Not Know where you are installing them!
The other question that comes up is the location of the 'current limiters'
- Putting them in an air flow INCREASES the current limiting point of the
limiter. What does the specs say about the safety range of them? What was
the ambient temperature of the testing?
Barry
On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 10:07 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I am installing the current limiters in my plane. The engine is a Lycoming
> IO-360 with a primary alternator (the belt driven one that came with the
> used engine) and a B&C Aero backup alternator. Here is the photo:
>
>
> I tied the ends together with a piece of brass buss bar from B&C. Spec
> says that it is .025 x .5. Is that sufficient to carry the load for this
> plane? My analysis has these loads:
>
> Typical 19 amps, 29 amps maximum
>
> With all devices on, including pitot heat: typical 32 amps, 49 amps maximum
>
> Also, B&C Aero shipped the current limiter holders with locknuts that have
> plastic inserts. Are those OK on the engine side of the firewall? I thought
> that I should only use all-metal locknuts on the engine side.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
>
>There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed
>Insulated Crimp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports
>the insulated part of the wire. It gives it a secure holding point
>that DOES NOT cut into wire.
B-crimp termination of wires on airplanes has
appeared in the bills-of-materials on tens
of thousands of type certificated aircraft
for decades. I was at Cessna when the AMP
Mate-n-lock products were incorporated into
the wire harnesses. I too was skeptical of
these 'new kids' on the block that seemed
to dangerously ignore techniques and
lessons-learned in the PIDG technology which
was then already decades old.
Emacs!
The open-barrel, b-crimp technology now has
a field-service record demonstrated in hundreds
of millions of vehicular and stationary applications
that makes them imminently suited to use on
aircraft. The insulation grip does not have to 'cut
into the wire' . . . as I described in the b-crimp
tool comic book (and illustrated in this image
from Tyco-AMP), the insulation grip should get a
'bear-hug' on the insulation without damage to it.
[]
These terminals were designed to be part of a
harness connector wherein two or more wires were
brought into a plastic housing as a female
connector that mated with a switch, relay or
other device.
>[]
>
>
There are hundreds of millions
of examples of this technology in service all
over the planet . . . including virtually all
cars and trucks on the road today. B-crimp
terminations probably outnumber PIDG style
devices by several orders of magnitude.
Emacs!
My only concerns for the style illustrated
were for the lack of finish and perhaps an
unknown pedigree for the material's mechanical
properties that go to maintenance of gas-tight
electrical connection.
But if these are found in catalogs from
manufacturers like Tyco-AMP, Molex, etc . . .
it is likely that those concerns are moot.
If one wished to use these devices as
mates to individual fast-on tabs, one could
consider adding heat-shrink over the whole
terminal . . . which offers more cover than
the PIDG devices.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bus bar materials |
Bob:
The question that Art brought up is due to inconsistency in terms; you used
the term 'dope'.
>From Art's question I gathered he wanted to do two things:
1 - Insure electrical contact and
2 - Prevent corrosion due to the elements and dissimilar materials.
I agree we, are talking two different products.
Dow Corning DC 4 is a Dielectric Grease.
By definition and manufactures recommendations it is used to COAT a joint
in preventing contact by the elements.
Dielectric means INSULATE.
It does NOT improve the conductive properties of metals or dissimilar
metals.
It protects them from the elements. Which is a good thing if that is all
you want to do.
The product which has the industry nickname DUCK GREASE does BOTH - Protect
and Ensure electrical conductivity, especially between dissimulator
metals.
Personally I think this particular coating process is just a bit beyond
normal requirements.
Why? Well, I would have to ask: Is the owner going to REPEAT the exact
same process every Annual/Safety Inspection?
Remove/open the entire connection, clean the mating areas, replace the
lock-washers and re-coat the area [with what ever process he deems
acceptable]?
Human Nature and 20+ years working on peoples planes, says: No!
Considering how DUCK GREASE is used, it does not require replacement and it
is used between mating parts. BUT! I still think it is Belts & Suspenders
and Shoelaces.
Many of the certified planes out there are around 40 years old. They
nBarryow have a history. Those connections were NOT opened every
Annual/Safety Inspection. Yet! They continue to work!
If the additional coating process extends the unknown life of the
connection / plane ... GREAT! We will see in 41 years. LoL!
And Art... If you want to obtain Dielectric Grease it can be purchased at
Auto Stores, it comes in a Yellow Packet, packaged by Permatex. Cost:
About $1.00.
Duck Grease is not as easy to find. Electrical Supply Outlets - It comes
in a squeeze bottle usually with a red label and white writing.
Barry
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 5:27 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 09:34 AM 5/9/2018, you wrote:
>
> Art:
>
> The term is Electrical DUCK Grease; it is just the opposite of Dielectric
> Grease.
>
>
> We're talking different materials that serve
> two different purposes. There are useful materials to
> add to joints in rigid components common to high
> power technologies like submarines, sub-stations
> etc. These not only exclude moisture, they contain
> electrically conductive enhancements for crossing
> voids that cannot be closed with tension in the
> bolts.
>
> Then there are treatments intended to fill tiny gaps
> between mated surfaces to prevent ingress of water/oxygen
> that progressively degrades the joint. I have a tube
> of Dow Corning DC4 that has lasted about 40 years
> . . . it doesn't take much. It's used to thinly coat
> mating surfaces of DUCTILE terminals. Any DC4 caught
> in the squash on the two metals is simply extruded out.
> But the tiniest voids in the interface will remain
> completely filled with DC4. Other, non-reactive
> materials would work too. Axle grease is better
> than nothing. The CRC product cited is good.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
At 10:47 PM 5/10/2018, you wrote:
>Bob
>I like these rather sophisticated through firewall fittings but they
>all look permanent. Super Cubs have swing out mounts to access the
>mags and other accessories on the back of the engine.
>In spite of allowing extra length in cables some must be
>disconnected and others allowed to move in the firewall. I believe
>Piper used a rubber grommet for abrasion protection and then covered
>the whole area with a fireproof clay. It never gets hard and is
>easily replaced. I still get it at a commercial electrical supply.
>Any thought on this method?
One of the venerable ancestors and gurus of
OBAM aviation, Tony Bingelis, described a technique
for fabricating grommet shields over firewall
penetrations.
https://goo.gl/1e84NX
This was 'the way' to raise the lowly rubber
grommet's rank to guardian of the cockpit
by first shielding as much of the grommet's
expose rubber as practical and finally,
molding a bit of fire-putty around the wire
or control cable thus covering the gap in the shield.
I think ACS and other sources offer pre-fabricated
shields . . .
Jack Thurman would, I'm sure, approve . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TyWraps redux |
What do you mean PROBABLY!!!
Certified Planes are Production Planes and do not come anywhere near the
quality of work done by most Experimental Builders.
Again, GREAT WORK Mickey.
Barry
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 2:26 PM, Bob Verwey wrote:
> Nice one! Prolly put some of those certified boys to shame!
>
> On Thu, 10 May 2018, 8:21 AM Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>> FWF I used a lot of flat lace along with some adel clamps and I'm really
>> happy with the way it turned out. I have some pictures here:
>>
>> http://www.rv8.ch/fwf-wiring-photos/
>>
>> I also did some testing with a good heat gun on the lace to make sure
>> that I understood how it would behave if it got really hot - I was
>> impressed. It basically didn't seem to care, and I could not get it to
>> melt or change state in any way with the heat gun that will cause Tefzel
>> wiring to finally melt and smoke.
>>
>> In parallel, I bought some Nomex lace, which also does not care about
>> getting cooked by a heat gun, and will probably add this next to the normal
>> lace in places that might be exposed to additional heat from the exhaust
>> pipes. Will give some feedback in a few years when I'm finally flying. :)
>>
>> Not sure why, but working with the lace was very satisfying.
>>
>> Mickey Coggins
>>
>>
>> On Wed, 9 May 2018 at 18:14, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>
>>> Good point Bob...
>>>
>>> In general BLACK Ty-Wraps are UV and Ozone proof. The white ones become
>>> brittle with time and exposure.
>>> SOME - not all colored Ty-Wraps may also work.
>>>
>>> One might even find notes on the Ty-Wrap packaging as to UV & Ozone
>>> resistant.
>>>
>>> Barry
>>>
>>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> In a recent thread, TyWraps were discussed as a solution
>>>> for wire bundle management. We had some discussions on
>>>> these products about ten years back . . .
>>>>
>>>> In years since, I've had occasion to throw out stocks
>>>> of unused TyWraps given that they had become brittle with
>>>> age . . . the buckles would snap off in the ordinary process
>>>> of applying the wrap.
>>>>
>>>> Be aware that not all that is plastic is Nylon 6,6. Evolved
>>>> over the last 80+ years by DuPont. This material and its
>>>> close cousins have found their way into all manner of component,
>>>> many of which perform in under-hood environment of automobiles.
>>>>
>>>> When purchasing these critters, look for a 6-6, 6/6, 66 or even
>>>> a 6,6 description of the nylon. The last time I was in Harbor
>>>> Freight, many of their offerings bore such markings . . . but
>>>> some did not . . . especially the smaller ones in assorted colors.
>>>>
>>>> All the wraps I pitched a few years ago were smaller sizes
>>>> in various colors. Some had been in my Dad's inventory for untold
>>>> years and were literally falling apart.
>>>>
>>>> My favorite bundle security uses Dacron flat lace applied
>>>> like so . . .
>>>>
>>>> https://goo.gl/H3z1EQ
>>>>
>>>> Did a job for a rancher friend yesterday where the wiring was
>>>> installed and initially held in place with some TyWraps he had
>>>> laying around . . . after it was up and running, I dug out the
>>>> roll of flat lace and installed a wrap adjacent to each of the
>>>> TyWraps. Those plastic thingies MIGHT fall off in a few years
>>>> but I'm betting the string will still be on duty.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bob . . .
>>>> ==========
>>>> -
>>>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.
>>>> matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> WIKI -
>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> b Site -
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Bob:
You are mixing Apples and Apple Sauce and coming up with Lumpy Apple Sauce.
Those are PINS not Lugs.
The Pins are supported by the connector.
The Lugs are hanging out into the air. No support!
And that is why PIDG type Lugs are preferred!
Barry
On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 9:11 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
> There was just a long thread on this email site that discussed Insulated
> Crimp Connectors. The insulated part of the lug Supports the insulated
> part of the wire. It gives it a secure holding point that DOES NOT cut
> into wire.
>
>
> B-crimp termination of wires on airplanes has
> appeared in the bills-of-materials on tens
> of thousands of type certificated aircraft
> for decades. I was at Cessna when the AMP
> Mate-n-lock products were incorporated into
> the wire harnesses. I too was skeptical of
> these 'new kids' on the block that seemed
> to dangerously ignore techniques and
> lessons-learned in the PIDG technology which
> was then already decades old.
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
> The open-barrel, b-crimp technology now has
> a field-service record demonstrated in hundreds
> of millions of vehicular and stationary applications
> that makes them imminently suited to use on
> aircraft. The insulation grip does not have to 'cut
> into the wire' . . . as I described in the b-crimp
> tool comic book (and illustrated in this image
> from Tyco-AMP), the insulation grip should get a
> 'bear-hug' on the insulation without damage to it.
>
> [image: []]
>
>
> These terminals were designed to be part of a
> harness connector wherein two or more wires were
> brought into a plastic housing as a female
> connector that mated with a switch, relay or
> other device.
>
> [image: []]
>
>
> There are hundreds of millions
> of examples of this technology in service all
> over the planet . . . including virtually all
> cars and trucks on the road today. B-crimp
> terminations probably outnumber PIDG style
> devices by several orders of magnitude.
>
> [image: Emacs!]
>
> My only concerns for the style illustrated
> were for the lack of finish and perhaps an
> unknown pedigree for the material's mechanical
> properties that go to maintenance of gas-tight
> electrical connection.
>
> But if these are found in catalogs from
> manufacturers like Tyco-AMP, Molex, etc . . .
> it is likely that those concerns are moot.
>
> If one wished to use these devices as
> mates to individual fast-on tabs, one could
> consider adding heat-shrink over the whole
> terminal . . . which offers more cover than
> the PIDG devices.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Power Lug |
With all due respect to Tony, he overbuilt his dies.
Place a section of thin stainless about the size of the palm of your hand o
n a scrap of soft wood.=C2- A scrap of pine 2x4 will suffice.=C2- Place
a=C2- larger size socket on it and whack it once good and hard with a go
od size hammer.=C2- For a pretty job, you'll want to make two, and cut th
em off-center, then attach so that they overlap.=C2- If you're not worrie
d about appearance, cut one, install so that they overlap, and don't worry
about the center not being circular.=C2- The same silicon used for cowl b
affling can be used as a fire-barrier and is not as messy as clays and asso
rted goops.=C2- Just cut a circle with a hole in it that will fit inside
the depression.
On Friday, May 11, 2018 9:21 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
At 10:47 PM 5/10/2018, you wrote:
Bob
I like these rather sophisticated through firewall fittings but they allloo
k permanent. Super Cubs have swing out mounts to access the mags andother a
ccessories on the back of the engine.
In spite of allowing extra length in cables some must be disconnected andot
hers allowed to move in the firewall. I believe Piper used a rubbergrommet
for abrasion protection and then covered the whole area with afireproof cla
y. It never gets hard and is easily replaced. I still get itat a commercial
electrical supply. Any thought on thismethod?
=C2- One of the venerable ancestors and gurus of
=C2- OBAM aviation, Tony Bingelis, described a technique
=C2- for fabricating grommet shields over firewall
=C2- penetrations.
https://goo.gl/1e84NX
=C2- This was 'the way' to raise the lowly rubber
=C2- grommet's rank to guardian of the cockpit
=C2- by first shielding as much of the grommet's
=C2- expose rubber as practical and finally,
=C2- molding a bit of fire-putty around the wire
=C2- or control cable thus covering the gap in the shield.
=C2- I think ACS and other sources offer pre-fabricated
=C2- shields . . .
=C2- Jack Thurman would, I'm sure, approve . . .
=C2- Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Why are you installing "lugs" that are hanging out into the air?
Me thinks the problem with lugs is caused by the problem of not following a
nother good practice, which is that the wire should be tied down in some ma
nner to isolate the crimp connection from vibration.=C2- You have to anal
yze the whole system.=C2- Not just one connector style.
On Friday, May 11, 2018 9:58 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Bob:
You are mixing Apples and Apple Sauce and coming up with Lumpy Apple Sauce.
Those are PINS not Lugs.The Pins are supported by the connector.The Lugs ar
e hanging out into the air. No support!And that is why PIDG type Lugs are p
referred!
Barry
On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 9:11 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aero
electric.com> wrote:
- =C2-
- There was just a long thread on this email site that discussedInsul
ated Crimp Connectors.=C2- The insulated part of the lug Supportsthe insu
lated part of the wire.=C2- It gives it a secure holding pointthat DOES N
OT cut into wire.
=C2- B-crimp termination of wires on airplanes has
=C2- appeared in the bills-of-materials on tens
=C2- of thousands of type certificated aircraft
=C2- for decades. I was at Cessna when the AMP
=C2- Mate-n-lock products were incorporated into
=C2- the wire harnesses.=C2- I too was skeptical of
=C2- these 'new kids' on the block that seemed
=C2- to dangerously ignore techniques and
=C2- lessons-learned in the PIDG technology which
=C2- was then already decades old.
=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2- The open-barrel, b-crimp technology nowhas
=C2-=C2-=C2- a field-service record demonstrated in hundreds
=C2-=C2-=C2- of millions of vehicular and stationaryapplications
=C2-=C2-=C2- that makes them imminently suited to use on
=C2-=C2-=C2- aircraft.=C2- The insulation grip does not have to'cut
=C2-=C2-=C2- into the wire' . . . as I described in theb-crimp
=C2-=C2-=C2- tool comic book (and illustrated in this image
=C2-=C2-=C2- from Tyco-AMP), the insulation grip should get a
=C2-=C2-=C2- 'bear-hug' on the insulation without damage toit.
=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2- These terminals were designed to be part of a
=C2-=C2-=C2- harness connector wherein two or more wires were
=C2-=C2-=C2- brought into a plastic housing as a female
=C2-=C2-=C2- connector that mated with a switch, relay or
=C2-=C2-=C2- other device.
-
=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2- There are hundreds of millions
=C2-=C2-=C2- of examples of this technology in service all
=C2-=C2-=C2- over the planet . . . including virtually all
=C2-=C2-=C2- cars and trucks on the road today.=C2- B-crimp
=C2-=C2-=C2- terminations probably outnumber PIDG style
=C2-=C2-=C2- devices by several orders of magnitude.
=C2-=C2-=C2- My only concerns for the style illustrated
=C2-=C2-=C2- were for the lack of finish and perhaps an
=C2-=C2-=C2- unknown pedigree for the material's mechanical
=C2-=C2-=C2- properties that go to maintenance of gas-tight
=C2-=C2-=C2- electrical connection.
=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2- But if these are found in catalogs from
=C2-=C2-=C2- manufacturers like Tyco-AMP, Molex, etc . . .
=C2-=C2-=C2- it is likely that those concerns are moot.
=C2-=C2-=C2- If one wished to use these devices as
=C2-=C2-=C2- mates to individual fast-on tabs, one could
=C2-=C2-=C2- consider adding heat-shrink over the whole
=C2-=C2-=C2- terminal . . . which offers more cover than
=C2-=C2-=C2- the PIDG devices.
=C2- Bob . . .
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OOKZ/d+j/wDoZqT+A/Qf+hNSEN5GNxyeTkE4wT2Gehxz1wOADyCvUcdeMYOATnGcY647j26c0j9B
/uf0NB6/gv8AIUAOBJxjODg8YHOByeoAJ7Zz7UmMdcA4yR1J5PQDIx0HHPrxjL06n6L/ACpiff8A
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AHX/AJCgB3f2IxyQTuwcemOOcnkYIxzmlGW7E885wAR6gHBGeeeM/jTKkb7i/h/I0ANG3ocHI425
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5JIAGaQfdH+8/wDMU5PvD8f5GgD/2Q=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
At 08:56 AM 5/11/2018, you wrote:
>Bob:
>
>You are mixing Apples and Apple Sauce and coming up with Lumpy Apple Sauce.
>
>Those are PINS not Lugs.
okay . . .
>The Pins are supported by the connector.
yes . . .
>The Lugs are hanging out into the air. No support!
that's what double wall heat shrink is for . . .
>And that is why PIDG type Lugs are preferred!
preferred but not necessarily required . . .
especially when using 'softer' fat wires
for battery/starter circuits.
Emacs!
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
At 10:29 AM 5/11/2018, you wrote:
>Why are you installing "lugs" that are hanging out into the air?
>
>Me thinks the problem with lugs is caused by the problem of not
>following another good practice, which is that the wire should be
>tied down in some manner to isolate the crimp connection from
>vibration. You have to analyze the whole system. Not just one
>connector style.
Agreed. Nearly all creative arts from cooking to building
airplanes, building houses and certainly all engineering
is a study in (1) properties of materials and (2) management of
energy as a SYSTEM. Policy and procedure can be exceedingly
helpful (as long as it is correct . . . remember the AC43.13
fiasco of about 15 years back?) but it can never replace
understanding of the physics.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Faston / Aveo Tab Terminals |
Both molex .062 type and AMP mate-n-lok connectors have wrapover insulation s
upports on the pins, and manage well without further support from the back s
hell. That is considered adequate, with appropriate wire support in the bund
le.
On May 11, 2018, at 12:34, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectri
c.com> wrote:
At 10:29 AM 5/11/2018, you wrote:
> Why are you installing "lugs" that are hanging out into the air?
>
> Me thinks the problem with lugs is caused by the problem of not following a
nother good practice, which is that the wire should be tied down in some man
ner to isolate the crimp connection from vibration. You have to analyze the
whole system. Not just one connector style.
Agreed. Nearly all creative arts from cooking to building
airplanes, building houses and certainly all engineering
is a study in (1) properties of materials and (2) management of
energy as a SYSTEM. Policy and procedure can be exceedingly
helpful (as long as it is correct . . . remember the AC43.13
fiasco of about 15 years back?) but it can never replace
understanding of the physics.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bus bar materials |
At 08:14 AM 5/11/2018, you wrote:
>Bob:
>
>The question that Art brought up is due to
>inconsistency in terms; you used the term 'dope'.=C2 =C2
> From Art's question I gathered he wanted to do two things:
>1 - Insure electrical contact and
>2 - Prevent corrosion due to the elements and dissimilar materials.
>
>I agree we, are talking two different products.
>
>Dow Corning DC 4 is a Dielectric Grease.
>By definition and manufactures recommendations
>it is used to COAT a joint in preventing contact by the elements.
>Dielectric means INSULATE.
>It does NOT improve the conductive properties of metals or dissimilar
metals.
>It protects them from the elements. Which is a
>good thing if that is all you want to do.
That IS all I want and expect it do to . . .
>The product which has the industry nickname DUCK
>GREASE does BOTH - Protect and Ensure electrical
>conductivity, especially between dissimulator metals.
>Personally I think this particular coating
>process is just a bit beyond normal requirements.
>Why? Well, I would have to ask: Is the owner
>going to REPEAT the exact same process every Annual/Safety Inspection?
>Remove/open the entire connection, clean the
>mating areas, replace the lock-washers and
>re-coat the area [with what ever process he deems acceptable]?
Yeah . . . AC43.13 used to have a paragraph or
two about "inspection of bus bars . . . with
recommendations for refurbishment on condition.
If any combination is assembled to specs and remains
tight, then there is no reason to 'inspect'. This applies
to every rivet in the airplane, all the fasteners in
the engine, etc. etc.
>Human Nature and 20+ years working on peoples planes, says: No!
>Considering how DUCK GREASE is used, it does not
>require replacement and it is used
>between mating parts. BUT! I still think it is
>Belts & Suspenders and Shoelaces.
When you simply twist two strands of freshly
exposed wire together in the classic 'Western
Union" telegraph splice . . . that joint is
presently as good as it will ever be. The
telegraph guys didn't solder them because tension
on the suspended wires maintained gas-tight
connections where the forces peaked on the
interfaces. Solder was later used to enhance
integrity from environmental stresses . . .
an excellent encapsulation that protected
the edges of the regions of gas-tightness.
DC4 or any other material used in the interface
of devices on threaded fasteners does the same
thing. The day that the assembly is made up
brand new . . . is as good as that joint is
ever going to be. Now, if the fastener stays
tight and DC4 (or other good stuff) protects
the boundaries of gas-tightness . . . the join's
integrity will not degrade with age.
>
>Many of the certified planes out there are around 40 years old.
>They nBarryow have a history. Those connections were NOT opened
>every Annual/Safety Inspection. Yet! They continue to work!
>If the additional coating process extends the unknown life of the
>connection / plane ... GREAT! We will see in 41 years.
My point exactly. We did not use ANY goops, greases,
magic juice or pixie dust in the assembly of
production airplane. The goal was to create joint
with a life expectancy longer than the airframe
itself . . . with, what you have observedis a
high degree of success.
DUCK grease may well be belt, suspenders and shoe
laces . . . but DC4 (or equal) is at least belt and
suspenders and probably useful in the most exposed
joints . . . like those ground screws on an antenna?
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
I don't think shrink wrap was invented when AC43.13 was written :)
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480080#480080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
Ira
I agree with you, I think shrink wrap was invented only after AC43.13 was published
...
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 11/05/2018, s 21:22, rampil escreveu:
>
> I don't think shrink wrap was invented when AC43.13 was written :)
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480080#480080
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
You might be correct about the original version of AC 43-13-1.
However, the current version AC 43-13-1B was published Sept 1998, with
change 1 issued Sept 2001. Most of the editing was done a few years
earlier. I can recall using heat shrink tubing in the early 80's and
probably before that. AC 43-13-2B (alterations) was issued even more
recently. Those dates straight from the cover of my desk reference copy.
Kelly
On 5/12/2018 1:34 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> Ira
>
> I agree with you, I think shrink wrap was invented only after AC43.13 was published
...
>
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
> No dia 11/05/2018, s 21:22, rampil escreveu:
>
>>
>> I don't think shrink wrap was invented when AC43.13 was written :)
>>
>> --------
>> Ira N224XS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
------> Kelly
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480088#480088
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
OK... I had to go look it up. Heat-shrink tubing was invented by Raychem
Corporation in 1962. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
Just out of curiosity, is there a way to get a diff of what changed in the
current version of AC43-13?
We always here that its a document written in the blood of others mistakes.
=C2- It would be telling to know what new "mistakes" were incorporated, a
s well as knowing what new materials and techniques the FAA considers accep
table.
On Saturday, May 12, 2018 9:57 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
OK... I had to go look it up.=C2-Heat-shrink tubing was invented by Rayc
hem Corporation in 1962. See=C2-https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink
_tubing
Cheers,=C2- =C2- -- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
| From: | "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com> |
echristley(at)att.net wrote:
> Just out of curiosity, is there a way to get a diff of what changed in the current
version of AC43-13?
Look for a black vertical bar in the left margin. It indicates that the text beside
it has been changed from the last revision. This obviously doesnt provide
a comparison with the superseded text, but if you have the old version as well,
it shows where to compare.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480093#480093
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Authority to solder splice a wire |
At 11:20 AM 5/12/2018, you wrote:
>Just out of curiosity, is there a way to get a diff of what changed
>in the current version of AC43-13?
>
>We always here that its a document written in the blood of others
>mistakes. It would be telling to know what new "mistakes" were
>incorporated, as well as knowing what new materials and techniques
>the FAA considers acceptable.
>
That was an interesting revision process . . . AC43-13 had
not been substantially revised in decades. When keepers
of the flame were about to release the latest upgrade, they
sent a copy to the technical services guru at EAA . . . his
name escapes me at the moment . . . and asked if EAA members
could review the document and offer advice on "typos and
syntax, etc. By the way, we need your input in about a week."
I received a copy of chapter 11. Other chapters were sent
to various subject matter experts in EAA. I think I spent
4-5 late night sessions on the keyboard and managed to get
my contributions, about a dozen pages of comments, in under
the wire. I've got a copy of the EAA submission around here
somewhere . . . I'll have to dig a bit.
In any case, the total suggestion package was substantial. The
target for releasing the revision was pushed back several
months . . . almost a year I think. When it finally did get
released, most of what EAA submitted was incorporated into
the document . . . but a few new toe-stubbers were added as
well (sigh) . . . nevertheless, it was a gratifying experience.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: TyWraps redux |
Thanks for the kind words - just doing it like Bob taught me via his book
and many PDFs and images.
Mickey Coggins
On Fri, 11 May 2018 at 15:39, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> What do you mean PROBABLY!!!
>
> Certified Planes are Production Planes and do not come anywhere near the
> quality of work done by most Experimental Builders.
>
> Again, GREAT WORK Mickey.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 2:26 PM, Bob Verwey wrote:
>
>> Nice one! Prolly put some of those certified boys to shame!
>>
>> On Thu, 10 May 2018, 8:21 AM Mickey Coggins
>> wrote:
>>
>>> FWF I used a lot of flat lace along with some adel clamps and I'm really
>>> happy with the way it turned out. I have some pictures here:
>>>
>>> http://www.rv8.ch/fwf-wiring-photos/
>>>
>>> I also did some testing with a good heat gun on the lace to make sure
>>> that I understood how it would behave if it got really hot - I was
>>> impressed. It basically didn't seem to care, and I could not get it to
>>> melt or change state in any way with the heat gun that will cause Tefzel
>>> wiring to finally melt and smoke.
>>>
>>> In parallel, I bought some Nomex lace, which also does not care about
>>> getting cooked by a heat gun, and will probably add this next to the normal
>>> lace in places that might be exposed to additional heat from the exhaust
>>> pipes. Will give some feedback in a few years when I'm finally flying. :)
>>>
>>> Not sure why, but working with the lace was very satisfying.
>>>
>>> Mickey Coggins
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, 9 May 2018 at 18:14, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>>
>>>> Good point Bob...
>>>>
>>>> In general BLACK Ty-Wraps are UV and Ozone proof. The white ones
>>>> become brittle with time and exposure.
>>>> SOME - not all colored Ty-Wraps may also work.
>>>>
>>>> One might even find notes on the Ty-Wrap packaging as to UV & Ozone
>>>> resistant.
>>>>
>>>> Barry
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
>>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> In a recent thread, TyWraps were discussed as a solution
>>>>> for wire bundle management. We had some discussions on
>>>>> these products about ten years back . . .
>>>>>
>>>>> In years since, I've had occasion to throw out stocks
>>>>> of unused TyWraps given that they had become brittle with
>>>>> age . . . the buckles would snap off in the ordinary process
>>>>> of applying the wrap.
>>>>>
>>>>> Be aware that not all that is plastic is Nylon 6,6. Evolved
>>>>> over the last 80+ years by DuPont. This material and its
>>>>> close cousins have found their way into all manner of component,
>>>>> many of which perform in under-hood environment of automobiles.
>>>>>
>>>>> When purchasing these critters, look for a 6-6, 6/6, 66 or even
>>>>> a 6,6 description of the nylon. The last time I was in Harbor
>>>>> Freight, many of their offerings bore such markings . . . but
>>>>> some did not . . . especially the smaller ones in assorted colors.
>>>>>
>>>>> All the wraps I pitched a few years ago were smaller sizes
>>>>> in various colors. Some had been in my Dad's inventory for untold
>>>>> years and were literally falling apart.
>>>>>
>>>>> My favorite bundle security uses Dacron flat lace applied
>>>>> like so . . .
>>>>>
>>>>> https://goo.gl/H3z1EQ
>>>>>
>>>>> Did a job for a rancher friend yesterday where the wiring was
>>>>> installed and initially held in place with some TyWraps he had
>>>>> laying around . . . after it was up and running, I dug out the
>>>>> roll of flat lace and installed a wrap adjacent to each of the
>>>>> TyWraps. Those plastic thingies MIGHT fall off in a few years
>>>>> but I'm betting the string will still be on duty.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob . . .
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> -
>>>>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> FORUMS -
>>>>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> WIKI -
>>>>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>>> ==========
>>>>> b Site -
>>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>> ==========
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
=8B=8B
Folks,
I am *finally* to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I
first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The
EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several
seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing about
5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to keep the
EFIS from rebooting.
I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the ammeter
shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a bit. You can
see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine
monitor?
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> =8B=8B
> Folks,
>
> I am *finally* to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I
> first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The
> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several
> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>
> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to keep
> the EFIS from rebooting.
>
> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the ammete
r
> shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a bit. You ca
n
> see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>
>
> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, wha
t
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Sebastien,
MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for isolating
the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It supports a backup
battery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
-- Art Z.
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien wrote:
> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine
> monitor?
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
>> =8B=8B
>> Folks,
>>
>> I am *finally* to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I
>> first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The
>> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several
>> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>>
>> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
>> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to kee
p
>> the EFIS from rebooting.
>>
>> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the
>> ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a bi
t.
>> You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>>
>>
>> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Lester <brian.lester(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
What about something like this?
http://www.tcwtech.com/ibbs_integrated_backup_battery_system_3ah_6ah.html
As long as the rest of your system meets your needs this will at least fix
the voltage drop issue for the EFIS.
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 8:45 PM Art Zemon wrote:
> Sebastien,
>
> MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for isolating
> the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It supports a backup
> battery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
>
> I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien wrote:
>
>> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine
>> monitor?
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>
>>> =8B=8B
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> I am *finally* to the point on my project of starting the engine. When
>>> I first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots.
The
>>> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes severa
l
>>> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>>>
>>> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
>>> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to ke
ep
>>> the EFIS from rebooting.
>>>
>>> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the
>>> ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a b
it.
>>> You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>>
>>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, wha
t
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
Ebay for a 'boot/buck switching regulator' sized for your needs (likely way
less than$30), and an aux battery sized the same way=2E Create a 'mini' bu
s for the items you want to isolate=2E
If all you want is brownout protect
ion, a little 2 or 3 AH battery shoul be more than enough=2E
There are oth
er commercial products available that do the same thing, but obviously you
will pay more=2E
=81=A3Charlie=8B
On May 14, 2018, 7:45 PM, at 7
:45 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>Sebastien,
>
>MGL sells the Av
ioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for
>isolating
>the avionics fr
om the rest of the aircraft system=2E It supports a backup
>battery=2E Cost
would be $450 + the battery=2E
>
>I am hoping for a less expensive solutio
n=2E
>
> -- Art Z=2E
>
>
>On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien wrote:
>
>> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup
battery for your engine
>> monitor?
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM,
Art Zemon wrote:
>>
>>> =8B=8B
>>> Folks,
>>
>
>>> I am *finally* to the point on my project of starting the engine=2E
>
When I
>>> first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS rebo
ots=2E
>The
>>> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it
takes
>several
>>> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online
=2E
>>>
>>> It is a 12 volt system=2E During engine start, the equipment is
>drawing
>>> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor)=2E I need about 9
volts to
>keep
>>> the EFIS from rebooting=2E
>>>
>>> I am using figure Z-
12 with very minor modifications: replaced the
>>> ammeter shunts with hall
effect sensors and rearranged the switches
>a bit=2E
>>> You can see my mo
dified diagram here: engine=2Epdf
>>>
>
>>>
>>> What would b
e the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>>
>>
>
>--
>https://CheerfulCurmud
geon=2Ecom/
>
>*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only fo
r myself,
>what
>am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart Hutchison <stuart(at)stuarthutchison.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
I can=99t help wondering if your primary battery is aged and below
par Art, but I second the IBBS from TCW Tech.
Installed in parallel with a decent Schottky diode (bought mine from
Eric at http://periheliondesign.com/ )
it=99s a simple way to overcome voltage sag on the bus during
start and provides alternate power (hardwired to essential items of your
choosing) in an emergency.
Cheers, Stu
> On 15 May 2018, at 10:56, Brian Lester wrote:
>
> What about something like this?
>
http://www.tcwtech.com/ibbs_integrated_backup_battery_system_3ah_6ah.html
<http://www.tcwtech.com/ibbs_integrated_backup_battery_system_3ah_6ah.html
>
>
> As long as the rest of your system meets your needs this will at least
fix the voltage drop issue for the EFIS.
>
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 8:45 PM Art Zemon > wrote:
> Sebastien,
>
> MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for
isolating the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It supports
a backup battery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
>
> I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien > wrote:
> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine
monitor?
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon > wrote:
> =8B=8B
> Folks,
>
> I am finally to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I
first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The
EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several
seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>
> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to
keep the EFIS from rebooting.
>
> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the
ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a
bit. You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>
> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Charlie,
That sounds like exactly what I need: brownout protection for one to two
seconds. Is this the sort of regulator that I need?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DROK-High-Efficiency-Regulator-DC-4-5-30V-to-0-8-2
8V-12A-Buck-Converter-Const/152990560495
-- Art Z.
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:59 PM, Charlie England
wrote:
> Ebay for a 'boot/buck switching regulator' sized for your needs (likely
> way less than$30), and an aux battery sized the same way. Create a 'mini'
> bus for the items you want to isolate.
>
> If all you want is brownout protection, a little 2 or 3 AH battery shoul
> be more than enough.
>
> There are other commercial products available that do the same thing, but
> obviously you will pay more.
>
> Charlie
> On May 14, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>
>> Sebastien,
>>
>> MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for isolatin
g
>> the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It supports a backup
>> battery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
>>
>> I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien wrote:
>>
>>> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine
>>> monitor?
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>>
>>>> =8B=8B
>>>> Folks,
>>>>
>>>> I am *finally* to the point on my project of starting the engine. When
>>>> I first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots.
The
>>>> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes sever
al
>>>> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>>>>
>>>> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
>>>> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to k
eep
>>>> the EFIS from rebooting.
>>>>
>>>> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the
>>>> ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a
bit.
>>>> You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>>
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Read the specifications carefully as the following statement from their specs
might be an issue.
"Please note: the negative of input and output wiring cannot be common ground."
Bob McC
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
> Date: May 14, 2018 at 9:47 PM
>
> Charlie,
>
> That sounds like exactly what I need: brownout protection for one to two
> seconds. Is this the sort of regulator that I need?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/DROK-High-Efficiency-Regulator-DC-4-5-30V-to-0-8-28V-12A-Buck-Converter-Const/152990560495
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:59 PM, Charlie England < ceengland7(at)gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
> > > Ebay for a 'boot/buck switching regulator' sized for your
> > > needs (likely way less than$30), and an aux battery sized the same
> > > way. Create a 'mini' bus for the items you want to isolate.
> >
> > If all you want is brownout protection, a little 2 or 3 AH battery
> > shoul be more than enough.
> >
> > There are other commercial products available that do the same
> > thing, but obviously you will pay more.
> >
> > Charlie
> > On May 14, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Art Zemon < art(at)zemon.name
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > > > Sebastien,
> > >
> > > MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply
> > > for isolating the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It
> > > supports a backup battery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
> > >
> > > I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
> > >
> > > -- Art Z.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien < cluros(at)gmail.com
> > > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > > > > Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL
> > > > > > > make a backup battery for your engine monitor?
> > > >
> > > > On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon <
> > > > art(at)zemon.name > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > > > > > Folks,
> > > > >
> > > > > I am finally to the point on my project of
> > > > > starting the engine. When I first engage the starter, voltage drops so
> > > > > low that my EFIS reboots. The EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1
> > > > > second later, but it takes several seconds for the engine instruments
> > > > > to come back online.
> > > > >
> > > > > It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the
> > > > > equipment is drawing about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I
> > > > > need about 9 volts to keep the EFIS from rebooting.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am using figure Z-12 with very minor
> > > > > modifications: replaced the ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors
> > > > > and rearranged the switches a bit. You can see my modified diagram
> > > > > here: engine.pdf
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
> > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> > >
> > >
> > > "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for
> > > myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
> > >
> > > > >
> > >
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Here is circuit. A disadvantage is 1/2 volt drop across the Schottky diode.
But if the aircraft electrical system voltage is 14.2 or higher, it should be OK.
Diode part number: 747-DSA300i45NA
If the voltage drop across the diode is not desired, normally closed relay
contacts could be connected in parallel with the diode. Energize the relay
with the start push button.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480130#480130
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brownout_bat_efis_135.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Check out TCWTechs stuff. They have both backup batteries, and
a power stabilizer that they offer that would do the trick.
http://www.tcwtech.com/
Tim
On 5/14/2018 7:38 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Sebastien,
>
> MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for
> isolating the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It supports
> a backup battery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
>
> I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien > wrote:
>
> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine
> monitor?
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon > wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I am /finally/to the point on my project of starting the
> engine. When I first engage the starter, voltage drops so low
> that my EFIS reboots. The EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1
> second later, but it takes several seconds for the engine
> instruments to come back online.
>
> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is
> drawing about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need
> about 9 volts to keep the EFIS from rebooting.
>
> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced
> the ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the
> switches a bit. You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>
>
> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
That one appears to be buck only=2E Should still work fine if you only expe
ct brownout protection=2E It can't do full charge voltage, but can likely d
o around 13-13=2E5v when fed 14=2E5 by the alternator=2E
But if you're do
ing that, it would be simpler and cheaper to just use a fat schottsky diode
=2E Again, ebay for the best price=2E
=81=A3Charlie=8B
On May 14
, 2018, 8:53 PM, at 8:53 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>Charlie,
>
>That sounds like exactly what I need: brownout protection for one to
>tw
o
>seconds=2E Is this the sort of regulator that I need?
>https://www=2Eeba
y=2Ecom/itm/DROK-High-Efficiency-Regulator-DC-4-5-30V-to-0-8-28V-12A-Buck-C
onverter-Const/152990560495
>
> -- Art Z=2E
>
>
>On Mon, May 14, 2018 at
7:59 PM, Charlie England
>wrote:
>
>> Ebay for a
'boot/buck switching regulator' sized for your needs
>(likely
>> way less t
han$30), and an aux battery sized the same way=2E Create a
>'mini'
>> bus f
or the items you want to isolate=2E
>>
>> If all you want is brownout prote
ction, a little 2 or 3 AH battery
>shoul
>> be more than enough=2E
>>
>> Th
ere are other commercial products available that do the same thing,
>but
>>
obviously you will pay more=2E
>>
>> Charlie
>> On May 14, 2018, at 7:45 P
M, Art Zemon wrote:
>>>
>>> Sebastien,
>>>
>>> MGL sells
the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for
>isolating
>>> the a
vionics from the rest of the aircraft system=2E It supports a
>backup
>>> b
attery=2E Cost would be $450 + the battery=2E
>>>
>>> I am hoping for a les
s expensive solution=2E
>>>
>>> -- Art Z=2E
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 14,
2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien wrote:
>>>
>>>> Battery fo
r the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your
>engine
>>>> monitor?
>
>>>
>>>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon wrot
e:
>>>>
>>>>> =8B=8B
>>>>> Folks,
>>>>>
>>>>> I am *finally* to
the point on my project of starting the engine=2E
>When
>>>>> I first enga
ge the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS
>reboots=2E The
>>>>> EFI
S immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes
>several
>>>>
> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online=2E
>>>>>
>>>>> It
is a 12 volt system=2E During engine start, the equipment is
>drawing
>>>>>
about 5 amps (other than the starter motor)=2E I need about 9 volts
>to ke
ep
>>>>> the EFIS from rebooting=2E
>>>>>
>>>>> I am using figure Z-12 with
very minor modifications: replaced the
>>>>> ammeter shunts with hall effe
ct sensors and rearranged the
>switches a bit=2E
>>>>> You can see my modif
ied diagram here: engine=2Epdf
>>>>>
>
>>>>>
>>>>> What woul
d be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://
CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ecom/
>>>
>>> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me?
And if I am only for
>myself,
>>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>>>
>>
>
>
>--
>https://CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ecom/
>
>*"If I am not for my
self, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>what
>am I? And if not n
ow, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
Ooh, good catch!
=81=A3Charlie=8B
On May 14, 2018, 9:13 PM, at 9
:13 PM, Robert McCallum wrote:
>Read th
e specifications carefully as the following statement from their
>specs
>mi
ght be an issue=2E
>
>"Please note: the negative of input and output wiring
cannot be common
>ground=2E"
>
>Bob McC
>
>> ---------- Original Message -
---------
>> From: Art Zemon <art@zemon=2Ename>
>> Date: May 14, 20
18 at 9:47 PM
>>
>> Charlie,
>>
>> That sounds like exactly what
I need: brownout protection for one
>to two
>> seconds=2E Is this the sort
of regulator that I need?
>>
>https://www=2Eebay=2Ecom/itm/DROK-High-Effici
ency-Regulator-DC-4-5-30V-to-0-8-28V-12A-Buck-Converter-Const/152990560495
>>
>> -- Art Z=2E
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:59 PM, Char
lie England <
>ceengland7@gmail=2Ecom
>> >
wrote:
>>
>> > > Ebay for a 'boot/buck switching regulator
' sized
>for your
>> > > needs (likely way less than$30), and an au
x battery sized
>the same
>> > > way=2E Create a 'mini' bus for the
items you want to
>isolate=2E
>> >
>> > If all you want is browno
ut protection, a little 2 or 3 AH
>battery
>> > shoul be more than enough
=2E
>> >
>> > There are other commercial products available that d
o the
>same
>> > thing, but obviously you will pay more=2E
>> >
>> >
Charlie
>> > On May 14, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Art Zemon < art@zemon
=2Ename
>> > > wrote:
>> >
>> > > >
> Sebastien,
>> > >
>> > > MGL sells the AvioGuard
, a DC-to-DC converting power
>supply
>> > > for isolating the avionics fro
m the rest of the aircraft system=2E
>It
>> > > supports a backup battery
=2E Cost would be $450 + the battery=2E
>> > >
>> > > I am hop
ing for a less expensive solution=2E
>> > >
>> > > -- Art Z=2E
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebast
ien <
>cluros@gmail=2Ecom
>> > > > wrote:
>> >
>
>> > > > > > > Battery for the EFIS?
>Do
es MGL
>> > > > > > > make a backup battery for your engine
>monitor?
>> > > >
>> > > > On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51
PM, Art Zemon <
>> > > > art@zemon=2Ename > wrote
:
>> > > >
>> > > > > > > > > Folk
s,
>> > > > >
>> > > > > I am finally to the point on
my project
>of
>> > > > > starting the engine=2E When I first engage the st
arter, voltage
>drops so
>> > > > > low that my EFIS reboots=2E The EFIS im
mediately reboots, less
>than 1
>> > > > > second later, but it takes sever
al seconds for the engine
>instruments
>> > > > > to come back online=2E
>>
> > > >
>> > > > > It is a 12 volt system=2E During e
ngine
>start, the
>> > > > > equipment is drawing about 5 amps (other than
the starter
>motor)=2E I
>> > > > > need about 9 volts to keep the EFIS fro
m rebooting=2E
>> > > > >
>> > > > > I am using figure
Z-12 with very minor
>> > > > > modifications: replaced the ammeter shunts
with hall effect
>sensors
>> > > > > and rearranged the switches a bit=2E
You can see my modified
>diagram
>> > > > > here: engine=2Epdf
>> > > > >
>
>> > > > >
>> > > > > What would be th
e simplest way to fix
>this issue?
>> > > > >
>> > > > > >
> > >
>> > > > > > >
>> > >
>> > > --
>> > >
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ecom/
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > "If I am not for myself, who is for
me? And if I am
>only for
>> > > myself, what am I? And if not now, when?"
Hillel
>> > >
>> > > > >
>> > >
>>
>>
>> --
>> htt
ps://CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ecom/
>>
>> "If I am not for myself, who is f
or me? And if I am only for
>myself, what
>> am I? And if not now, when?" H
illel
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com> |
Don't you want a boost converter instead of a buck converter?
Ken
On 14/05/2018 10:41 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> Ooh, good catch!
>
> Charlie
> On May 14, 2018, at 9:13 PM, Robert McCallum
> >
> wrote:
>
> Read the specifications carefully as the following statement from
> their specs might be an issue.
>
> "Please note: the negative of input and output wiring cannot be
> common ground."
>
> Bob McC
>
>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>> From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
>> Date: May 14, 2018 at 9:47 PM
>>
>> Charlie,
>>
>> That sounds like exactly what I need: brownout protection for one
>> to two seconds. Is this the sort of regulator that I need?
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/DROK-High-Efficiency-Regulator-DC-4-5-30V-to-0-8-28V-12A-Buck-Converter-Const/152990560495
>>
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:59 PM, Charlie England <
>> ceengland7(at)gmail.com > wrote:
>>
>> Ebay for a 'boot/buck switching regulator' sized for your
>> needs (likely way less than$30), and an aux battery sized the
>> same way. Create a 'mini' bus for the items you want to isolate.
>>
>> If all you want is brownout protection, a little 2 or 3 AH
>> battery shoul be more than enough.
>>
>> There are other commercial products available that do the
>> same thing, but obviously you will pay more.
>>
>> Charlie
>> On May 14, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Art Zemon < art(at)zemon.name
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Sebastien,
>>
>> MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power
>> supply for isolating the avionics from the rest of the
>> aircraft system. It supports a backup battery. Cost would
>> be $450 + the battery.
>>
>> I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien <
>> cluros(at)gmail.com > wrote:
>>
>> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery
>> for your engine monitor?
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon <
>> art(at)zemon.name > wrote:
>>
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I am /finally/ to the point on my project of
>> starting the engine. When I first engage the
>> starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS
>> reboots. The EFIS immediately reboots, less than
>> 1 second later, but it takes several seconds for
>> the engine instruments to come back online.
>>
>> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the
>> equipment is drawing about 5 amps (other than the
>> starter motor). I need about 9 volts to keep the
>> EFIS from rebooting.
>>
>> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor
>> modifications: replaced the ammeter shunts with
>> hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a
>> bit. You can see my modified diagram here:
>> engine.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>>
>> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only
>> for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for
>> myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Rick Beebe <rick(at)beebe.org> |
Eric Page, who's on this list, created a device to protect against this
using a large capacitor. He modified an earlier design by Eric Jones. I
bought one from him. It works great on my bench. Should be going in the
plane in the next week or so. His original email is quoted below:
--Rick
Im starting a new thread on this topic in case anyone who might be
interested missed the recent discussion, here:
http://forum.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=16768062
To recap, Ive adapted Eric Jones design for a voltage slump
eliminator (a device to prevent EFIS/EMS brownout/reboot during engine
start) and designed a circuit board for it. The schematic (.PDF) is here:
http://forum.matronics.com/download.php?id=44878
An archive (.ZIP) containing the full design files can be downloaded here:
https://preview.tinyurl.com/yajod9m6
So far one member of the forum has expressed a desire for me to build
one of these for him, so Ive ordered a batch of circuit boards. If
anyone else wants a complete unit, please let me know so I can order all
of the components at once. You can reply to this thread or contact me
directly.
The cost should be about $35 each, plus postage to your address. Ill
send a PayPal invoice, along with copies of my receipts, once I know the
exact amount for each device and I have them ready to mail.
Im happy to part with bare circuit boards as well; again, for my cost
($0.55/ea) plus postage.
Eric
P.S. For anyone seeing this in the future, you can contact me directly
to see if I have any circuit boards on hand. The PDF schematic file
contains a link to Digi-Key that will load a shopping cart with all
necessary components.
On 05/14/2018 07:51 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I am /finally/to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I
> first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The
> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several
> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>
> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to
> keep the EFIS from rebooting.
>
> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the
> ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a
> bit. You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>
>
> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
See my 1st answer=2E :-)
Boost only woul not be a good idea; that implies
a set point higher than alternator voltage=2E
=81=A3Charlie=8B
O
n May 14, 2018, 10:07 PM, at 10:07 PM, C&K wrot
e:
>
>
>Don't you want a boost converter instead of a buck converter?
>Ken
>
>
On 14/05/2018 10:41 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>> Ooh, good catch!
>>
>> Ch
arlie
>> On May 14, 2018, at 9:13 PM, Robert McCallum
>> >
>> wrote:
>
>
>> Read the specifications carefully as the following statement from
>> their specs might be an issue=2E
>>
>> "Please note: the negativ
e of input and output wiring cannot be
>> common ground=2E"
>>
>> B
ob McC
>>
>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>> From: Art
Zemon
>>> Date: May 14, 2018 at 9:47 PM
>>>
>>>
Charlie,
>>>
>>> That sounds like exactly what I need: brownout protect
ion for
>one
>>> to two seconds=2E Is this the sort of regulator that I
need?
>>>
>https://www=2Eebay=2Ecom/itm/DROK-High-Efficiency-Regulator
-DC-4-5-30V-to-0-8-28V-12A-Buck-Converter-Const/152990560495
>>>
>>>
>>>
-- Art Z=2E
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:59 PM, Charlie Engl
and <
>>> ceengland7@gmail=2Ecom > wrote
:
>>>
>>> Ebay for a 'boot/buck switching regulator' sized for your
>>> needs (likely way less than$30), and an aux battery sized
>the
>>> same way=2E Create a 'mini' bus for the items you want to
>iso
late=2E
>>>
>>> If all you want is brownout protection, a little 2
or 3 AH
>>> battery shoul be more than enough=2E
>>>
>>> Th
ere are other commercial products available that do the
>>> same th
ing, but obviously you will pay more=2E
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
On May 14, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Art Zemon < art@zemon=2Ename
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Sebastien,
>>>
>>>
MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power
>>>
supply for isolating the avionics from the rest of the
>>> airc
raft system=2E It supports a backup battery=2E Cost
>would
>>>
be $450 + the battery=2E
>>>
>>> I am hoping for a less expensi
ve solution=2E
>>>
>>> -- Art Z=2E
>>>
>>>
>>> On M
on, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien <
>>> cluros@gmail=2Ecom
> wrote:
>>>
>>> Battery for th
e EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery
>>> for your engine
monitor?
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon
<
>>> art@zemon=2Ename > wrote:
>
>>
>>> =8B=8B
>>> Folks
,
>>>
>>> I am /finally/ to the point on my project of
>>> starting the engine=2E When I first engage the
>>>
starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS
>>>
reboots=2E The EFIS immediately reboots, less than
>>>
1 second later, but it takes several seconds for
>>>
the engine instruments to come back online=2E
>>>
>>>
It is a 12 volt system=2E During engine start, the
>>>
equipment is drawing about 5 amps (other than
>the
>>>
starter motor)=2E I need about 9 volts to keep the
>>>
EFIS from rebooting=2E
>>>
>>> I am using figu
re Z-12 with very minor
>>> modifications: replaced the
ammeter shunts with
>>> hall effect sensors and rearra
nged the switches
>a
>>> bit=2E You can see my modified
diagram here:
>>> engine=2Epdf
>>>
>
>>>
>>>
>>> What would be the simples
t way to fix this
>issue?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> h
ttps://CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ecom/
>>>
>>>
>>> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And
if I am
>only
>>> for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?"
Hillel/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ec
om/
>>>
>>> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only f
or
>>> myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>>
>>
>
========
orum -
e many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
t
=============
WEB FORUMS -
=====
dd some info to the Matronics Email List Wiki!
atronics=2Ecom
===============
Contribution Web Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin=2E
://www=2Ematronics=2Ecom/contribution
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
I would go for this Voltage Slump Eliminator first - a passive device.
Switchers must be designed to generate little radiated and conducted
interference - see the discussions on usb-charging.
Jan de Jong
On 5/15/2018 5:19 AM, Rick Beebe wrote:
>
> Eric Page, who's on this list, created a device to protect against
> this using a large capacitor. He modified an earlier design by Eric
> Jones. I bought one from him. It works great on my bench. Should be
> going in the plane in the next week or so. His original email is
> quoted below:
>
> --Rick
>
>
> Im starting a new thread on this topic in case anyone who might be
> interested missed the recent discussion, here:
>
> http://forum.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=16768062
>
> To recap, Ive adapted Eric Jones design for a voltage slump
> eliminator (a device to prevent EFIS/EMS brownout/reboot during engine
> start) and designed a circuit board for it. The schematic (.PDF) is
> here:
>
> http://forum.matronics.com/download.php?id=44878
>
> An archive (.ZIP) containing the full design files can be downloaded
> here:
>
> https://preview.tinyurl.com/yajod9m6
>
> So far one member of the forum has expressed a desire for me to build
> one of these for him, so Ive ordered a batch of circuit boards. If
> anyone else wants a complete unit, please let me know so I can order
> all of the components at once. You can reply to this thread or
> contact me directly.
>
> The cost should be about $35 each, plus postage to your address.
> Ill send a PayPal invoice, along with copies of my receipts, once I
> know the exact amount for each device and I have them ready to mail.
>
> Im happy to part with bare circuit boards as well; again, for my
> cost ($0.55/ea) plus postage.
>
> Eric
>
> P.S. For anyone seeing this in the future, you can contact me
> directly to see if I have any circuit boards on hand. The PDF
> schematic file contains a link to Digi-Key that will load a shopping
> cart with all necessary components.
>
>
> On 05/14/2018 07:51 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I am /finally/to the point on my project of starting the engine.
>> When I first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS
>> reboots. The EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but
>> it takes several seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>>
>> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
>> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to
>> keep the EFIS from rebooting.
>>
>> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the
>> ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a
>> bit. You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
Art,
I had a similar issue not sure it is related to yours, my grounding
strap was connected to the engine case but I forgot to clean the paint
of the case, this made for a bad ground (you could feel all the control
lines to the engine heated up). Jump the negative pole of your battery
to your exhaust and try again, my engine started immediately after that
so I did know where to search.
Again, not sure it is related to your case but an easy test.
Cheers Werner
On 15.05.2018 01:51, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I am /finally/to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I
> first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The
> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several
> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
For a more DIY experience:
DC/DC Converters | MPJA.COM
|
|
|
| | |
|
|
|
| |
DC/DC Converters | MPJA.COM
| |
|
|
On Monday, May 14, 2018 10:09 PM, Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sym
patico.ca> wrote:
Read the specifications carefully as the following statement from their
specs might be an issue.
"Please note: the negative of input and output wiring cannot be common gro
und." Bob McC
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: May 14, 2018 at 9:47 PM
Charlie,
That sounds like exactly what I need: brownout protection for one to two
seconds. Is this the sort of regulator that I need? https://www.ebay.com/i
tm/DROK-High-Efficiency-Regulator-DC-4-5-30V-to-0-8-28V-12A-Buck-Converter-
Const/152990560495
-- Art Z.
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:59 PM, Charlie England < ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
wrote:
Ebay for a 'boot/buck switching regulator' sized for your needs (likely
way less than$30), and an aux battery sized the same way. Create a 'mini' b
us for the items you want to isolate.
If all you want is brownout protection, a little 2 or 3 AH battery shoul
be more than enough.
There are other commercial products available that do the same thing, bu
t obviously you will pay more.
Charlie On May 14, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Art Zemon < art(at)zemon.name> wrote
:
Sebastien,
MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for isolatin
g the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It supports a backup b
attery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
-- Art Z.
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien < cluros(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine moni
tor?
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon < art(at)zemon.name> wrote:
=8B=8B Folks,
I am finally to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I f
irst engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The EFI
S immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several secon
ds for the engine instruments to come back online.
It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing ab
out 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to keep the
EFIS from rebooting.
I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the ammet
er shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a bit. You c
an see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon. com/
"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Art:
The simplest thing that would not cost you a penny is to: Turn the
Avionics on AFTER you start the engine.
But, I'm guessing that is not the way you want to go.
Bob must have some reason why grounds cannot be common. Try his notes
second if you do not want to change your starting procedure.
Side Note: The 5 Amps you mention on draw are probably the constant
current draw and not the peak draw. Just for S&G's consider the peak to be
3 times the constant. Now how would that affect your system?
Side Note: What does the Battery voltage drop to when you hit the
starter? Some starters post notes that if the voltage drops below 10 VDC
the charging system or battery or starter connection should be looked into.
The idea of a DC to DC battery backup would work but I do not see why you
have to go that elaborate or anywhere that costly. A simple standby
battery and a relay that is energized when the Starter Relay is energized
just to supply power to the Avionics would work. If you think a mechanical
relay would be too slow in transferring power you could use a solid-state
relay.
As a side benefit the battery could be used as emergency avionics buss
power. All that would be needed is a desperate Switch to energizer the
Avionics relay.
Good Luck OM,
Barry
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:51 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> =8B=8B
> Folks,
>
> I am *finally* to the point on my project of starting the engine. When I
> first engage the starter, voltage drops so low that my EFIS reboots. The
> EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1 second later, but it takes several
> seconds for the engine instruments to come back online.
>
> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is drawing
> about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need about 9 volts to keep
> the EFIS from rebooting.
>
> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced the ammete
r
> shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the switches a bit. You ca
n
> see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>
>
> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, wha
t
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Barry,
The EFIS is my engine instruments. If the EFIS is off (or rebooting) then I
do not have an oil pressure gauge.
-- Art Z.
On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 10:44 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
> The simplest thing that would not cost you a penny is to: Turn the
> Avionics on AFTER you start the engine.
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Joe,
Thanks. I think that your circuit will be perfect. I can add a small
battery and it doesn't matter a bit whether or not my EFIS runs at 13.2
volts or at 12.7 volts.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 9:10 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
> Here is circuit. A disadvantage is 1/2 volt drop across the Schottky
> diode.
> But if the aircraft electrical system voltage is 14.2 or higher, it should
> be OK.
> Diode part number: 747-DSA300i45NA
> If the voltage drop across the diode is not desired, normally closed relay
> contacts could be connected in parallel with the diode. Energize the relay
> with the start push button.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
AHHhhhhh Got Ya! Art!
Yea, you are right... Get the EFIS to boot and stay Up and Running!
You got me thinking Art... I am installing a E.I. CGR 30P in a certified
plane, it will be having oil pressure also... I have to solve the same
issue as you. Of course I'll be limited with options, I'll have to try the
Direct To Battery trick with a relay.
Barry
On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 5:03 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Barry,
>
> The EFIS is my engine instruments. If the EFIS is off (or rebooting) then
> I do not have an oil pressure gauge.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 10:44 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
>> The simplest thing that would not cost you a penny is to: Turn the
>> Avionics on AFTER you start the engine.
>>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Joe:
I like your schematic, what program are you using to draw it?
Barry
On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 10:10 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
> Here is circuit. A disadvantage is 1/2 volt drop across the Schottky
> diode.
> But if the aircraft electrical system voltage is 14.2 or higher, it should
> be OK.
> Diode part number: 747-DSA300i45NA
> If the voltage drop across the diode is not desired, normally closed relay
> contacts could be connected in parallel with the diode. Energize the relay
> with the start push button.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480130#480130
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/brownout_bat_efis_135.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Art, I have noticed on a couple dual Dynon installs that while the voltage
drop kicks the flight EFIS into reboot, the engine EFIS does not. I would
guess this is by design. Have you asked GRT about this problem? It's
possible this is something that would be worth their while to patch.
On Tue, May 15, 2018, 10:21 PM Art Zemon wrote:
> Joe,
>
> Thanks. I think that your circuit will be perfect. I can add a small
> battery and it doesn't matter a bit whether or not my EFIS runs at 13.2
> volts or at 12.7 volts.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 9:10 PM, user9253 wrote:
>
>>
>> Here is circuit. A disadvantage is 1/2 volt drop across the Schottky
>> diode.
>> But if the aircraft electrical system voltage is 14.2 or higher, it
>> should be OK.
>> Diode part number: 747-DSA300i45NA
>> If the voltage drop across the diode is not desired, normally closed relay
>> contacts could be connected in parallel with the diode. Energize the
>> relay
>> with the start push button.
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> *"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what
> am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Art
Further to the best electric solution you certainly will find to avoid the b
rownout, a belt & suspenders solution could be to install a small oil pressu
re indicator.
At least that was my way to solve the same problem, before I decided to go w
ith the TCW backup battery.
Cheers
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 15/05/2018, =C3-s 22:03, Art Zemon escreveu:
> Barry,
>
> The EFIS is my engine instruments. If the EFIS is off (or rebooting) then I
do not have an oil pressure gauge.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>> On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 10:44 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>> The simplest thing that would not cost you a penny is to: Turn the Avio
nics on AFTER you start the engine.
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>
> "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what a
m I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Joe
Smart circuit, but will it recharge the backup battery?
Carlos
No dia 15/05/2018, s 03:10, user9253 escreveu:
>
> Here is circuit. A disadvantage is 1/2 volt drop across the Schottky diode.
> But if the aircraft electrical system voltage is 14.2 or higher, it should be
OK.
> Diode part number: 747-DSA300i45NA
> If the voltage drop across the diode is not desired, normally closed relay
> contacts could be connected in parallel with the diode. Energize the relay
> with the start push button.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480130#480130
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/brownout_bat_efis_135.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mike(at)vision499.com> |
| Subject: | Shower of Sparks |
I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks,
1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it
2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type of spark
or sparks should I expect.
3. Are there any other tests that I can perform.
Thanks
Mike
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks |
Mike:
To test the Shower Of Sparks -
Disconnect the Starter.
You can do this easily by pulling the control wire to the Starter Relay.
This way you can activate the Shower Of Sparks (SOS) and LISTEN for the
BUZZ and SAFELY not have to worry about a spinning prop.
You can also remove the spark plug wire from each of the spark plugs.
Do you want to check out the Mag and the Spark Plug wires as well as the
SOS?
If so here is another TRICK!
Go to a automotive store and get the Clear Plastic Spark Plug test
light... It has a Neon bulb inside.
You hook up the test light to the wires.
Re-Connect the control wire on the starter relay and CRANK AWAY.
You will see a longer time duration to the spark than if there was NO SOS.
And, it will be a nice bright light. Again as compared to a standard
Impulse Mag.
On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 8:32 PM, wrote:
>
> I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks,
>
> 1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it
>
=8BBarry - I never had a over heating problem. I would guess and eas
y
Minute.=8B
>
> 2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type
> of spark or sparks should I expect.
>
=8BBarry - A standard Blueish Spark of Longer Duration.=8B
>
> 3. Are there any other tests that I can perform.
>
=8BBarry - See above.
=8BBest of Luck,=8B
Barry=8B
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
> ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John B <jbsoar(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks |
What is being used as a "shower of sparks" for the LOM engine?
On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 7:32 PM, wrote:
>
> I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks,
>
> 1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it
>
> 2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type
> of spark or sparks should I expect.
>
> 3. Are there any other tests that I can perform.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mike(at)vision499.com> |
| Subject: | Shower of Sparks |
The standard LOM supplied shower of sparks module that is described on
one of Bob=99s Z diagrams, I have it at the hangar so cannot
remember the diagram number.
Thanks
Mike
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
B
Sent: May 15, 2018 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks
What is being used as a "shower of sparks" for the LOM engine?
On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 7:32 PM, > wrote:
>
I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks,
1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it
2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what
type of spark or sparks should I expect.
3. Are there any other tests that I can perform.
Thanks
Mike
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart Hutchison <stuart(at)stuarthutchison.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks |
Mike, the induction vibrator (AKA starter vibrator) wired to the left Magneto start
circuit oscillates at 200Hz, so it simply causes lots of sparks (at a rate
of 200 per second, rather than one spark) every time a plug is fired. The 22-25
deg advance breaker is grounded in favour of the retard breaker firing at
TDC to avoid kickback. Its hard to harm the starter vibrator and youd be hard
pressed to see sparks at a rate of 200Hz, but the engine (especially a six)
is a whole lot easier to start when the circuit is working!
Stu
> On 16 May 2018, at 10:32, wrote:
>
>
> I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks,
>
> 1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it
>
> 2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type of
spark or sparks should I expect.
>
> 3. Are there any other tests that I can perform.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Barry,
I used a program called Express.sch
It is free and can be downloaded here:
https://www.expresspcb.com
The program has two parts, the schematic part and the circuit board part.
Use teh schematic part: express.sch
After drawing your diagram, click FILE, EXPORT SCHEMATIC IMAGE.
The only choice for saving is as a BMP file.
Open the bmp file with "PAINT", a program that is built into all versions of Windows.
Crop the picture and then save as a JPG file.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480173#480173
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Carlos,
I think the aux battery will be recharged. Normally it will only be used for a
few seconds during engine cranking, so it will run down very little. A Schottky
diode will drop 0.4 - 0.5 volts when conducting 5 amps. If the aircraft electrical
system operates at 14.2 volts, then 14.2 - 0.5 = 13.7 volts. That is
enough to recharge a battery, albeit slowly.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480174#480174
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Art,
The Schottky diode 747-DSA300i45NA that I mentioned earlier is really overkill
for this application. Smaller Schottky diodes are available for less than $1,
although not as robust.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480175#480175
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Below is an untried circuit for someone who likes to experiment. Instead of using
a heavy lead acid battery, it uses two flashlight batteries in series. Depending
on the load, and considering that the batteries will only be used for
a few seconds at a time, size AA or C or D can be tried. The alkaline batteries
will add 3 volts to the aircraft main battery voltage during engine cranking.
The diode prevents the alkaline batteries from being shorted out. The diode
also keeps the load energized for the few milliseconds while the relay contacts
are in transition. The normally open relay contacts connect the alkaline
batteries during engine start. After starting the engine, the normally closed
relay contacts short out the diode during normal operation to give full voltage
to the load. If the relay coil or N.C. contacts fail, the EFIS will still
get power through the diode. Before I get flamed, I am not necessarily recommending
this circuit, just offering it to experimenters.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480176#480176
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brownout_alkaline_bat_112.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Joe:
Thank you very much for the information.
I'll give it a try. I hope it is as intuitive as much as I am software
challenged ;-)
Barry
On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 11:08 AM, user9253 wrote:
>
> Barry,
> I used a program called Express.sch
> It is free and can be downloaded here:
> https://www.expresspcb.com
> The program has two parts, the schematic part and the circuit board part.
> Use teh schematic part: express.sch
> After drawing your diagram, click FILE, EXPORT SCHEMATIC IMAGE.
> The only choice for saving is as a BMP file.
> Open the bmp file with "PAINT", a program that is built into all versions
> of Windows.
> Crop the picture and then save as a JPG file.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480173#480173
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
What would be wrong with throwing a big capacity directly across the power
and ground as close to the EIS as you can?
You gave 5A as the current draw for the e-bus, I doubt the EIS is drawing m
ore than one.=C2- The cap will need to be large enough to make up the dif
ference between the voltage required and where it drops to during the 15 se
conds of cranking.=C2- Part of the caps electrons will back feed to the s
tarter, but that path has the resistance of a lot of connections and thinne
r wires.=C2- Plus, it won't be a direct short to ground.=C2- It has to
compete with another source pumping electrons into the circuit (the battery
).=C2- The cap will get topped off as soon as you stop cranking.
Just make sure to use a slow blow fuse and be done with it.
On Wednesday, May 16, 2018 12:09 PM, FLYaDIVE wrot
e:
Joe:
Thank you very much for the information.
I'll give it a try.=C2- I hope it is as intuitive as much as I am softwar
e challenged ;-)
Barry
On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 11:08 AM, user9253 wrote:
Barry,
I used a program called Express.sch
It is free and can be downloaded here:
https://www.expresspcb.com
The program has two parts, the schematic part and the circuit board part.
Use teh schematic part: express.sch
After drawing your diagram, click FILE, EXPORT SCHEMATIC IMAGE.
The only choice for saving is as a BMP file.
Open the bmp file with "PAINT", a program that is built into all versions o
f Windows.
Crop the picture and then save as a JPG file.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/ viewtopic.php?p=480173#480173
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
The little device by Eric Jones & Eric Page does this in an organized
manner and with inexpensive parts.
No switching, no batteries.
Give it a try.
Jan de Jong
On 5/16/2018 8:05 PM, Ernest Christley wrote:
> What would be wrong with throwing a big capacity directly across the
> power and ground as close to the EIS as you can?
>
> You gave 5A as the current draw for the e-bus, I doubt the EIS is
> drawing more than one. The cap will need to be large enough to make
> up the difference between the voltage required and where it drops to
> during the 15 seconds of cranking. Part of the caps electrons will
> back feed to the starter, but that path has the resistance of a lot of
> connections and thinner wires. Plus, it won't be a direct short to
> ground. It has to compete with another source pumping electrons into
> the circuit (the battery). The cap will get topped off as soon as you
> stop cranking.
>
> Just make sure to use a slow blow fuse and be done with it.
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 16, 2018 12:09 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
>
> Joe:
>
> Thank you very much for the information.
>
> I'll give it a try. I hope it is as intuitive as much as I am
> software challenged ;-)
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 11:08 AM, user9253 > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Barry,
> I used a program called Express.sch
> It is free and can be downloaded here:
> https://www.expresspcb.com
> The program has two parts, the schematic part and the circuit
> board part.
> Use teh schematic part: express.sch
> After drawing your diagram, click FILE, EXPORT SCHEMATIC IMAGE.
> The only choice for saving is as a BMP file.
> Open the bmp file with "PAINT", a program that is built into all
> versions of Windows.
> Crop the picture and then save as a JPG file.
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/ viewtopic.php?p=480173#480173
> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480173#480173>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
> What would be wrong with throwing a big capacity directly across the power and
ground as close to the EIS as you can?
That solution sounds reasonable in theory. The problem is that the starter motor
would quickly drain the capacitor without a diode to block reverse current.
Another problem is that one big capacitor rated at 15 volts or more would be
impractically humongous. The solution is to use several capacitors, each rated
at less voltage. Eric Jones & Eric Page have already done the engineering.
Read this thread about the Deslumpifier:
http://forum.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477147&sid'd0d83508c5b8d07bf0ea2643e41201
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480181#480181
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
What Tim and others have suggested, TCWTech stuff, will fix it. I used
the power stabilizer to fix this problem in my installation - I have (3)
EFIS units.
On 5/14/2018 10:13 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Check out TCWTechs stuff. They have both backup batteries, and
> a power stabilizer that they offer that would do the trick.
>
> http://www.tcwtech.com/
>
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 5/14/2018 7:38 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>> Sebastien,
>>
>> MGL sells the AvioGuard, a DC-to-DC converting power supply for
>> isolating the avionics from the rest of the aircraft system. It
>> supports a backup battery. Cost would be $450 + the battery.
>>
>> I am hoping for a less expensive solution.
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:09 PM, Sebastien > > wrote:
>>
>> Battery for the EFIS? Does MGL make a backup battery for your engine
>> monitor?
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 4:51 PM, Art Zemon > > wrote:
>>
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I am /finally/to the point on my project of starting the
>> engine. When I first engage the starter, voltage drops so low
>> that my EFIS reboots. The EFIS immediately reboots, less than 1
>> second later, but it takes several seconds for the engine
>> instruments to come back online.
>>
>> It is a 12 volt system. During engine start, the equipment is
>> drawing about 5 amps (other than the starter motor). I need
>> about 9 volts to keep the EFIS from rebooting.
>>
>> I am using figure Z-12 with very minor modifications: replaced
>> the ammeter shunts with hall effect sensors and rearranged the
>> switches a bit. You can see my modified diagram here: engine.pdf
>>
>>
>> What would be the simplest way to fix this issue?
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>
>> /"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself,
>> what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel/
>
>
999
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
The 2 attached (pilfered) figures aim to show when the EFIS reboot
occurs in the engine start sequence.
The deep voltage drawdown where the EFIS reboots is resolved as soon as
the starter motor picks up speed.
The "deslumping" only needs to hold up the voltage for a few hundred ms.
Jan de Jong
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Verwey <bob.verwey(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Jan so would a relay then be fast enough to catch the lump? Looking at the
figures it would appear that the big spike is of very short duration.
Best...
Bob Verwey
082 331 2727
On 17 May 2018 at 09:59, Jan de Jong wrote:
> The 2 attached (pilfered) figures aim to show when the EFIS reboot occurs
> in the engine start sequence.
> The deep voltage drawdown where the EFIS reboots is resolved as soon as
> the starter motor picks up speed.
> The "deslumping" only needs to hold up the voltage for a few hundred ms.
>
> Jan de Jong
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
It is a race with the relay and solenoid that enables the starter motor.
A small relay will win I would think.
But I would prefer the "deslumpifier" of Eric Jones that Eric Page
elaborated. No moving parts, no active electronics, no batteries.
Jan de Jong
On 5/17/2018 10:21 AM, Bob Verwey wrote:
> Jan so would a relay then be fast enough to catch the lump? Looking at
> the figures it would appear that the big spike is of very short duration.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
Hi Jan, Which eric jones product are you talking about? I've been all
over his site http://www.periheliondesign.com/ and can't find anything. I
just bought 4 a123 18650 lifepo4 batteries and a battery holder I plan to
wire into my EIS and EFIS, but if there is a more elegant solution from
Eric I'm interested.
Mickey Coggins
On Thu, 17 May 2018 at 11:20, Jan de Jong wrote:
> It is a race with the relay and solenoid that enables the starter motor. A
> small relay will win I would think.
> But I would prefer the "deslumpifier" of Eric Jones that Eric Page
> elaborated. No moving parts, no active electronics, no batteries.
>
> Jan de Jong
>
> On 5/17/2018 10:21 AM, Bob Verwey wrote:
>
> Jan so would a relay then be fast enough to catch the lump? Looking at the
> figures it would appear that the big spike is of very short duration.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Even though Eric Jones designed and built a prototype, he does not sell the deslumpifier.
Last I heard, he does not intend to either. Maybe he would if the
demand was big enough. Eric Page built a few that had more capacitance. He
sold them to AeroElectric members at cost for the parts. That was really nice
of him and he did a professional job. He probably has the schematic and parts
list and gerber files that are necessary to order the PC boards. With that
information, a person could order the parts and make their own deslumpifier.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480215#480215
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com> |
I do still have circuit boards available for this project. Ordinarily Id be happy
to assemble another one, but Im just starting to build a house and my free
time is extremely limited. If you review the first couple of posts in this thread...
http://forum.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477147
...youll find all the information about it. A link to a Digi-Key shopping cart
populated with all of the required components is given on the schematic diagram.
A few notes:
- This is a brownout/reboot preventer only; its not a source of emergency power
for avionics. For that, the TCW units or a similar DIY setup are a better choice.
- Youll need a fairly stout soldering iron to successfully solder the large diodes.
A soldering gun would be a good idea if you have one. All other components
are solderable with normal techniques. The diodes are installed with their
ring marking (cathode) facing up.
- Its a good idea to apply some sort of adhesive around the base of the capacitors
and large resistor heatsink to provide mechanical support. I used Shoe Goo
on the boards that I assembled.
- Id recommend using the plastic box as a mounting base for the circuit board and
leave the lid off. This will help to keep things cool while the capacitors
are charging.
Let me know if you want a PCB. Ill sell what I have left at my cost: $0.55 ea.
+ postage and PayPal fee. Ill include the M2.5 screws needed to mount it in
the box.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480216#480216
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mike(at)vision499.com> |
| Subject: | Shower of Sparks |
Thank you very much for the help,
The spark plug test light worked like a charm, thanks for the good idea
Keep well
Mike
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr
ic-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: May 15, 2018 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks
Mike:
To test the Shower Of Sparks -
Disconnect the Starter.
You can do this easily by pulling the control wire to the Starter Relay.
This way you can activate the Shower Of Sparks (SOS) and LISTEN for the BUZ
Z and SAFELY not have to worry about a spinning prop.
You can also remove the spark plug wire from each of the spark plugs.
Do you want to check out the Mag and the Spark Plug wires as well as the SO
S?
If so here is another TRICK!
Go to a automotive store and get the Clear Plastic Spark Plug test light...
It has a Neon bulb inside.
You hook up the test light to the wires.
Re-Connect the control wire on the starter relay and CRANK AWAY.
You will see a longer time duration to the spark than if there was NO SOS.
And, it will be a nice bright light. Again as compared to a standard Impuls
e Mag.
On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 8:32 PM, > wrote:
ision499.com> >
I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks,
1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it
=8BBarry - I never had a over heating problem. I would guess and eas
y Minute.=8B
2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type o
f spark or sparks should I expect.
=8BBarry - A standard Blueish Spark of Longer Duration.=8B
3. Are there any other tests that I can perform.
=8BBarry - See above.
=8BBest of Luck,=8B
Barry=8B
Thanks
Mike
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shower of Sparks |
Mike:
You are quite welcome.
Did you notice how long the spark lasted?
Way longer than just a Mag spark.
Easy test.
Barry
On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 11:19 PM, wrote:
> Thank you very much for the help,
>
>
> The spark plug test light worked like a charm, thanks for the good idea
>
>
> Keep well
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *FLYaDIVE
> *Sent:* May 15, 2018 6:05 PM
> *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks
>
>
> Mike:
>
>
> To test the Shower Of Sparks -
>
> Disconnect the Starter.
>
> You can do this easily by pulling the control wire to the Starter Relay.
>
> This way you can activate the Shower Of Sparks (SOS) and LISTEN for the
> BUZZ and SAFELY not have to worry about a spinning prop.
>
> You can also remove the spark plug wire from each of the spark plugs.
>
> Do you want to check out the Mag and the Spark Plug wires as well as the
> SOS?
>
> If so here is another TRICK!
>
> Go to a automotive store and get the Clear Plastic Spark Plug test
> light... It has a Neon bulb inside.
>
> You hook up the test light to the wires.
>
> Re-Connect the control wire on the starter relay and CRANK AWAY.
>
> You will see a longer time duration to the spark than if there was NO SO
S.
>
> And, it will be a nice bright light. Again as compared to a standard
> Impulse Mag.
>
>
> On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 8:32 PM, wrote:
>
>
> I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks,
>
> 1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it
>
> =8BBarry - I never had a over heating problem. I would guess and e
asy
> Minute.=8B
>
>
> 2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type
> of spark or sparks should I expect.
>
> =8BBarry - A standard Blueish Spark of Longer Duration.=8B
>
>
> 3. Are there any other tests that I can perform.
>
> =8BBarry - See above.
>
>
> =8BBest of Luck,=8B
>
>
> Barry=8B
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
> ---
>
>
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>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1-10 (2-10) toggle switch |
| From: | "JOHN TIPTON" <jmtipton(at)btopenworld.com> |
Hi Guys
I have a couple of (S700 series) toggle switches designated 1-10, from using my
volt/ohm meter it appears to operate as a 2-10 - is this correct - in the AeroElectric
Connection (my edition anyway) list of S700 toggle switches, it does
not mention a 1-10 anywhere
Clarification welcome
Regards
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480223#480223
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting the Engine Reboots the EFIS |
| From: | "Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net> |
I am glad to see that there is great interest in the deslumpifier, and that Eric
Page has made these available.
I don't intent to sell these. Too many other things to do. BTW: There are BIG Supercaps
that help start diesel engines in big trucks, and could in airplanes,
too. So it really is industrial technology.
Eric M. Jones
PerihelionDesign.com
--------
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480224#480224
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1-10 (2-10) toggle switch |
At 07:58 AM 5/18/2018, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi Guys
>
>I have a couple of (S700 series) toggle switches designated 1-10,
>from using my volt/ohm meter it appears to operate as a 2-10 - is
>this correct - in the AeroElectric Connection (my edition anyway)
>list of S700 toggle switches, it does not mention a 1-10 anywhere
The "1" indicates a SINGLE pole switch
that will have only 3 terminals. "2" is
a DOUBLE pole device with 6 terminals.
Emacs!
Emacs!
The dash-10 functionality REQUIRES two
poles, hence there can be no such thing
as a 1-10 switch. I suspect that your
switch has been marked in error.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
/Le 23/12/2017 01:26, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a crit:
/
> /
> Can you describe the physical configuration of
> the vertical fin vis-a-vis the empennage? Is
> the vertical fin detachable?
>
> I presume the antenna, once installed, will
> forever more be inaccessible for tweeking? /
Hi Bob and all,
Reviving the antenna-in-tail subject, as the project fuselage is now
assembled.
Bob mentionned a promising "bazooka" configuration for the antenna, as
the tail is too narrow to allow for a regular ground plane.
Here are some answers to your questions :
The entire fuselage is carbon. The vertical fin is integral with the
fuselage but is made of glass for the installation of the antenna.
The fin height is ~ 0.9 m (35") while the carbon tail at the base is
only 0.18 m (7") wide.
The base of the antenna will be accessible via the tail cone aperture,
and crawling into the fuselage will permit limited access.
I was considering installing the radiating element in a plastic tube in
the fin, so that the antenna may be easily inserted and removed.
Any suggestions as to how to devise a reasonably efficient comm antenna
in the tail ?
Thanks in advance,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
Giles:
You solved half of the antenna issue by making the vertical stab out of
fiberglass.
The second issue is: What is the Torque Tube of the rudder made out of?
If it is aluminum then you have a Blanketing issue as it will mess up the
radiation pattern of the antenna.
The third issue is you will need at least a 1/4 wave length Ground-plane
made out of a conductive material... Aluminum or copper.
>From the looks of the empennage you do not have enough area to have a
ground-plane.
So, what are your options:
The most logical will also probably be the easiest - Install two home-brew
antennas in the tips of the Horizontal Sab or the tips of the Elevator and
co-phase them. Of course they will be horizontally phased as compared to
most other antennas out there but, that is a minor inconvenience. Consider
ALL those bent 1/4 wave belly mounted antennas that are bent over - - -
they still work.
Here is a simple co-phased feed line:
http://www.jonfinley.com/hobbies/harness.html
I would use BNC connectors as apposed to PL & SO connectors.
I also totally dislike CRIMP connectors. The solder ones work better and
do not cut into the COAX - - EVER!
Just work out the math for the frequency you wish to use.
Barry
On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 7:43 AM, GTH wrote:
>
> *Le 23/12/2017 =C3- 01:26, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a =C3=A9crit : *
>
>
> * Can you describe the physical configuration of the vertical fin
> vis-a-vis the empennage? Is the vertical fin detachable? I presume th
e
> antenna, once installed, will forever more be inaccessible for tweeking
?
> *
>
>
> Hi Bob and all,
>
> Reviving the antenna-in-tail subject, as the project fuselage is now
> assembled.
>
> Bob mentionned a promising "bazooka" configuration for the antenna, as th
e
> tail is too narrow to allow for a regular ground plane.
>
> Here are some answers to your questions :
> The entire fuselage is carbon. The vertical fin is integral with the
> fuselage but is made of glass for the installation of the antenna.
> The fin height is ~ 0.9 m (35") while the carbon tail at the base is only
> 0.18 m (7") wide.
>
>
> The base of the antenna will be accessible via the tail cone aperture, an
d
> crawling into the fuselage will permit limited access.
> I was considering installing the radiating element in a plastic tube in
> the fin, so that the antenna may be easily inserted and removed.
>
> Any suggestions as to how to devise a reasonably efficient comm antenna i
n
> the tail ?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> --
> Best regards,
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timothy Meyer <tgmeyerster(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
Here is a link to Jim Wier of RST Engineering information of aircraft
antennas in fiberglass airplanes and fiberglass airplane components.
http://www.rstengineering.com/rst/products/plasticplaneantenna/plasticplane
antenna.htm
I've heard Jim talk st Oshkosh numerous times.
Tim Meyer
On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 6:55 AM GTH wrote:
>
> *Le 23/12/2017 =C3- 01:26, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a =C3=A9crit : *
>
>
> * Can you describe the physical configuration of the vertical fin
> vis-a-vis the empennage? Is the vertical fin detachable? I presume th
e
> antenna, once installed, will forever more be inaccessible for tweeking
?
> *
>
>
> Hi Bob and all,
>
> Reviving the antenna-in-tail subject, as the project fuselage is now
> assembled.
>
> Bob mentionned a promising "bazooka" configuration for the antenna, as th
e
> tail is too narrow to allow for a regular ground plane.
>
> Here are some answers to your questions :
> The entire fuselage is carbon. The vertical fin is integral with the
> fuselage but is made of glass for the installation of the antenna.
> The fin height is ~ 0.9 m (35") while the carbon tail at the base is only
> 0.18 m (7") wide.
>
>
> The base of the antenna will be accessible via the tail cone aperture, an
d
> crawling into the fuselage will permit limited access.
> I was considering installing the radiating element in a plastic tube in
> the fin, so that the antenna may be easily inserted and removed.
>
> Any suggestions as to how to devise a reasonably efficient comm antenna i
n
> the tail ?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> --
> Best regards,
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
> http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
I would try a 1/4 wave antenna with ground plane. Of course the small diameter
tail is not the ideal shape and size for a ground plane. But it might be good
enough. Use 4 or 6 copper tape radials (or aluminum strips) glued to the inside
of the tail cone. Or it might be easier to install a thin sheet of aluminum
glued to the inside surface of the tail cone.
If that does not work out, then try the bazooka antenna.
No antenna is perfect. Be satisfied with good enough.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480242#480242
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
| From: | "mike>bentley" <mikeeeb(at)gmail.com> |
When flying in the vicinity of radio or TV towers, I get a constant buzz or static
over the radio. Sometimes I can hear the conversation or music from the station,
but just barely. It seems to start when I'm within a 1/2 to 1/4 mile from
a tower.
Anyone else have this type of issue or resolved this type of issue?
--------
Mike Bentley
Joplin, MO
N5498B
Kitfox Model 4-1200
Jabiru 2200 #438
Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
Prince Prop (64 x 34)
Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480244#480244
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
Giles,
There are a number of comm antenna solution that do not require a ground
plane. They are produced by Archer and by Advanced Aircraft
Electronics. These are center-tap, full-wave antennas of various
styles, shapes and prices.
See =94
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?cache=75660d9834ea34b12f
c9146878e6443b&filter=&perpage=all&pageno=1
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?cache=75660d9834ea34b12
fc9146878e6443b&filter=&perpage=all&pageno=1>
They are hidden amongst the various other antennas on the page.
In addition there are plans available on the net to craft your own
copper tape/strip full wave antennas that could be used on the stern
post.
I have used both the AAE and Archer antennas in composite aircraft and I
have built a copper strip antenna for use with a base radio all with
excellent results.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (100 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules
Prop.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On May 20, 2018, at 6:43 AM, GTH wrote:
Le 23/12/2017 =C3- 01:26, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a =C3=A9crit :
>
> Can you describe the physical configuration of
> the vertical fin vis-a-vis the empennage? Is
> the vertical fin detachable?
>
> I presume the antenna, once installed, will
> forever more be inaccessible for tweeking?
Hi Bob and all,
Reviving the antenna-in-tail subject, as the project fuselage is now
assembled.
Bob mentionned a promising "bazooka" configuration for the antenna, as
the tail is too narrow to allow for a regular ground plane.
Here are some answers to your questions :
The entire fuselage is carbon. The vertical fin is integral with the
fuselage but is made of glass for the installation of the antenna.
The fin height is ~ 0.9 m (35") while the carbon tail at the base is
only 0.18 m (7") wide.
The base of the antenna will be accessible via the tail cone aperture,
and crawling into the fuselage will permit limited access.
I was considering installing the radiating element in a plastic tube in
the fin, so that the antenna may be easily inserted and removed.
Any suggestions as to how to devise a reasonably efficient comm antenna
in the tail ?
Thanks in advance,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
What is happening is that the high power from the towers is exciting one
of the oscillators in one of your radios. What is most common,
especially with older 121.5 ELTs is for their transmit oscillator to be
activated by the high power RF from the towers, generating a weak white
noise signal that breaks squelch on your com radio. I used to have that
problem with a previous aircraft, where there are about 15 high power
towers on a mountain a few miles south of the Phoenix Class B and in
line with the VFR transition through the Class B. Communications with
approach control while flying that transition would become very
difficult. Newer 121.5 ELTs and 406 ELTs are better shielded for that.
Also, moving a com antenna from top of fuselage to belly can help
isolate the ELT from the com antenna.
On 5/20/2018 8:38 AM, mike>bentley wrote:
> --> Avionics-List message posted by: "mike>bentley"
>
> When flying in the vicinity of radio or TV towers, I get a constant buzz or static
over the radio. Sometimes I can hear the conversation or music from the
station, but just barely. It seems to start when I'm within a 1/2 to 1/4 mile
from a tower.
>
> Anyone else have this type of issue or resolved this type of issue?
>
> --------
> Mike Bentley
> Joplin, MO
> N5498B
> Kitfox Model 4-1200
> Jabiru 2200 #438
> Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
> Prince Prop (64 x 34)
> Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480245#480245
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
| From: | "mike>bentley" <mikeeeb(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Kelli,
I have a 406mhz elt with the antenna mounted inside the fuselage and comm antenna
mounted on top of the fuselage. The elt antenna is approximately 18" below
and 12" forward of the comm antenna. The elt antenna is much easier to relocate
than the comm. Would moving the elt antenna farther away help?
--------
Mike Bentley
Joplin, MO
N5498B
Kitfox Model 4-1200
Jabiru 2200 #438
Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
Prince Prop (64 x 34)
Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480249#480249
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 5/20/2018 10:33 AM, mike>bentley wrote:
>
> When flying in the vicinity of radio or TV towers, I get a constant buzz or static
over the radio. Sometimes I can hear the conversation or music from the
station, but just barely. It seems to start when I'm within a 1/2 to 1/4 mile
from a tower.
>
> Anyone else have this type of issue or resolved this type of issue?
>
> --------
> Mike Bentley
> Joplin, MO
> N5498B
> Kitfox Model 4-1200
> Jabiru 2200 #438
> Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
> Prince Prop (64 x 34)
> Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
Flying within 1/4 mile of a tower? My solution would be the He Haw (TV
show, for uninitiated) solution: 'If it hurts when you do that, don't do
that!' Especially in the case of towers, just don't do that.
Charlie
(Your issue is not an uncommon problem within a few miles of high power
transmitters, as someone else has said.)
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
| From: | "mike>bentley" <mikeeeb(at)gmail.com> |
We have several towers in the vicinity of our airport. It can be occasionally annoying
depending on the direction you're going to or coming from.
--------
Mike Bentley
Joplin, MO
N5498B
Kitfox Model 4-1200
Jabiru 2200 #438
Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
Prince Prop (64 x 34)
Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480251#480251
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
Mike:
Very Interesting....
Our plane radios transmit and receive in AM.
TV video is AM while their audio is FM.
AM land based radio shows are at a frequency well, well below our aviation
frequencies.
So... Something else must be happening if you are receiving and Hearing
Voices.
I can understand static and buzzing, just not the voices?
Start Simple and work up from their. Simple:
Check the GROUNDS on your radios and antennas. You CANNOT check Grounds by
LQQKing at them. You MUST open the connection, Clean the connection and
replace or ADD (if missing) an Internal Star Washer, then Tighten the
connection.
Getting a bit more complicated you can build a Band Pass Filter. This
would work if the interference was a few harmonics away from from our
frequencies.
If you can:
Drive to the radio/TV stations and bring a Hand Held aviation radio and see
if you can hear them when right next to them.
You - May even talk to the station engineer. And as a last resort, report
the station to the FCC. BUT Only if your test with the Hand Held proves
true.
Barry
On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 11:33 AM, mike>bentley wrote:
> mikeeeb(at)gmail.com>
>
> When flying in the vicinity of radio or TV towers, I get a constant buzz
> or static over the radio. Sometimes I can hear the conversation or music
> from the station, but just barely. It seems to start when I'm within a 1/2
> to 1/4 mile from a tower.
>
> Anyone else have this type of issue or resolved this type of issue?
>
> --------
> Mike Bentley
> Joplin, MO
> N5498B
> Kitfox Model 4-1200
> Jabiru 2200 #438
> Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
> Prince Prop (64 x 34)
> Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480244#480244
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I don't know if you would gain improvement or not, but generally I like
to have at least 2 ft between com antennas, more if I can get it. The
ELT is in same frequency spectrum as com, so interaction is mostly a
function of distance. Before doing anything, the easy test is to simply
disconnect the antenna cable from the ELT and go fly near the offending
towers. You will know right away if the problem is reduced or not. Your
com radio(s) may be interfered with independent of the ELT. Most
broadcast towers are close in frequency, either below or above the com
frequency band.
On 5/20/2018 9:15 AM, mike>bentley wrote:
>
> Thanks Kelly,
>
> I have a 406mhz elt with the antenna mounted inside the fuselage and comm antenna
mounted on top of the fuselage. The elt antenna is approximately 18" below
and 12" forward of the comm antenna. The elt antenna is much easier to relocate
than the comm. Would moving the elt antenna farther away help?
>
> --------
> Mike Bentley
> Joplin, MO
> N5498B
> Kitfox Model 4-1200
> Jabiru 2200 #438
> Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
> Prince Prop (64 x 34)
> Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480249#480249
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
For those of you who suffer from quantitative
OCD like I do, there is a class of measurement
tool that has trickled down in price to where
us po' folk can afford them.
GPS disciplined signal sources can exploit
the extra-ordinary time-keeping features of
the GPS system to produce accurate reference
signals with accuracies/stabilities out to
a buckets-full-of-zeros.
https://goo.gl/B4hqTm
I've been eyeing these for several years but
finally yielded to temptation with this
puppy on eBay
https://goo.gl/zVviDZ
With this device driving the 10MHz reference
port on my 40 year old HP signal generator,
proving legality of the radios on our
emergency services hand-helds and trucks
is a no-brainer.
You may have to mount an antenna outside your
facility with good sky view . . . beyond
that, these things are plug-n-play.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
A
>The base of the antenna will be accessible via the tail cone
>aperture, and crawling into the fuselage will permit limited access.
>I was considering installing the radiating element in a plastic tube
>in the fin, so that the antenna may be easily inserted and removed.
>
>Any suggestions as to how to devise a reasonably efficient comm
>antenna in the tail ?
Assuming my mental image of your configuration
is accurate, consider the following.
Terminating the antenna coax in
a BNC cable connector. Then use a BNC
chassis connector to make the mechanical
transition to the antenna and "ground
planes".
The radiating portion of the antenna obviously
needs to extend up the tube. I'd go for a
chunk of RG400 with the outer jacket and
removed from about 2" of the 'antenna' segment.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Antennas/TailCone_Antenna/
Push shields back hard exposing center conductor
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Antennas/TailCone_Antenna/
Cut off center conductor
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Antennas/TailCone_Antenna/
Stretch the braids out and 'tin' the last
1/4" or so with solder.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Antennas/TailCone_Antenna/
Mount chassis BNC connector to 'ground plane'.
Suggest copper sheet, 1/2" minimum to as wide as
you can fit into the tail cone. The chassis
connector can be spot-soldered to copper
sheet.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Antennas/TailCone_Antenna/
Repeat on opposite side . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Antennas/TailCone_Antenna/
If copper sheet is not readily available,
aluminum can be used. If the aluminum option
is selected, use the star-washer supplied with
the connector to improve electrical interface
with the ground-plane.
The 'radials' are 1/4-wave (24") extending forward
on each side of tailcone.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Antennas/TailCone_Antenna/
If you have access to an antenna analyzer (MFJ259
or similar), you can survey the installed
antenna for resonance. I suspect you'll find
that it resonates a bit low in frequency due to
proximity effects of the rudder post.
Trim antenna 1/4" at a time until SWR
minimizes at 126.5 MHz.
If post installation evaluation is impractical
or impossible, then shorten the antenna by about
5% . . . make it 23 inches.
Does this look 'doable' on your project?
The photos above have been posted at . . .
https://goo.gl/9NaAK1
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, it is not clear from the photo, but is the 23" antenna braid soldered to the
center pin on the BNC chassis connector? I assume coax is used for the radiating
element instead of a wire because the coax is fatter and will give a wider
bandwidth than, say, a 14 awg wire.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480260#480260
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
At 03:30 PM 5/20/2018, you wrote:
>
>Bob, it is not clear from the photo, but is the 23" antenna braid
>soldered to the center pin on the BNC chassis connector?
Yes. The center conductor in the radiator is not
a participant in the design.
> I assume coax is used for the radiating element instead of a wire
> because the coax is fatter and will give a wider bandwidth than,
> say, a 14 awg wire.
The design goal is to make a flexure-resistant connection
between the connector and the radiator. The dual-shield
configuration on RG400 offers an attractive solution
for achieving this goal . . . leaving it 1/4-wave
long finishes out the radiator with a single soldered
joint.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Pengilly" <Peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
| Subject: | VHF antenna in the tail |
Have you considered one of these?
http://www.dolba.de/antennenloesungen/funk-antenne-bd5/
Fitted to many German gliders, bonded to the fin structure, most how
have
glass fiber fins to allow VHF, txpdr & flarm antennas all to be hidden
inside.
Peter
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of GTH
Sent: 20 May 2018 12:43
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: VHF antenna in the tail
Le 23/12/2017 =E0 01:26, Robert L. Nuckolls, III a =E9crit :
Can you describe the physical configuration of
the vertical fin vis-a-vis the empennage? Is
the vertical fin detachable?
I presume the antenna, once installed, will
forever more be inaccessible for tweeking?
Hi Bob and all,
Reviving the antenna-in-tail subject, as the project fuselage is now
assembled.
Bob mentionned a promising "bazooka" configuration for the antenna, as
the
tail is too narrow to allow for a regular ground plane.
Here are some answers to your questions :
The entire fuselage is carbon. The vertical fin is integral with the
fuselage but is made of glass for the installation of the antenna.
The fin height is ~ 0.9 m (35") while the carbon tail at the base is
only
0.18 m (7") wide.
The base of the antenna will be accessible via the tail cone aperture,
and
crawling into the fuselage will permit limited access.
I was considering installing the radiating element in a plastic tube in
the
fin, so that the antenna may be easily inserted and removed.
Any suggestions as to how to devise a reasonably efficient comm antenna
in
the tail ?
Thanks in advance,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | VHF antenna in the tail |
At 04:57 PM 5/20/2018, you wrote:
>Have you considered one of these?
>
><http://www.dolba.de/antennenloesungen/funk-antenne-bd5/>http://www.dolba.de/antennenloesungen/funk-antenne-bd5/
>
>Fitted to many German gliders, bonded to the fin structure, most how
>have glass fiber fins to allow VHF, txpdr & flarm antennas all to be
>hidden inside.
>
>Peter
Do you know anyone who has installed this antenna on
an OBAM aircraft? It's not clear from the image
just how it installs. The website had no links to
installation manuals that I could find.
The SWR plot is impressive . . . but SWR and
efficiency are two separate things. I've dropped
them an email requesting more details.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
At 10:33 AM 5/20/2018, you wrote:
>
>When flying in the vicinity of radio or TV towers, I get a constant
>buzz or static over the radio. Sometimes I can hear the conversation
>or music from the station, but just barely. It seems to start when
>I'm within a 1/2 to 1/4 mile from a tower.
>
>Anyone else have this type of issue or resolved this type of issue?
Seen this and similar situations many times
in the past. Powerful transmitters are strong
potential interference sources. Effects are
many and varied. Used to rent a Beech B77
at Mid Continent that would treat me to a
'buzz' in the headsets while awaiting clearance
at the south end of 1R. The hold pad was about 100 yards
from the ATC antenna dish. Every time the antenna
swept around, you'd hear a buzz-burst at the
PRF for the radar transmitter. Sometimes you
hear a similar buzz-burst from a transponder
reply when the antenna coax shield is broken
and the leakage is radiating the cabin.
Another rental a/p would drift off track
if my LOC intercept path took me past the
television stations antenna farm NW of
KICT. After passage, the a/p would recover
and correctly nail the intercept.
Those transmitters have really BIG radiated
power numbers . . . sometimes 200,000 watts.
Since the effects are inversely proportional
to square of distance from the source, they
usually go away if you're more than a couple
miles from the antenna.
Best fix . . . fly around it . . . or simply
be aware of it and turn the volume down until
you are past it.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
| From: | "mike>bentley" <mikeeeb(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the input everyone. My plane seems to be the only one this is happening
to as I've flown the same route in everything from Cubs to Challenger 300's
and no interference. I'll try what you all suggested and report back.
Thanks again.
--------
Mike Bentley
Joplin, MO
N5498B
Kitfox Model 4-1200
Jabiru 2200 #438
Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads
Prince Prop (64 x 34)
Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480274#480274
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz |
At 10:05 AM 5/21/2018, you wrote:
>
>Thanks for the input everyone. My plane seems to be the only one
>this is happening to as I've flown the same route in everything from
>Cubs to Challenger 300's and no interference. I'll try what you all
>suggested and report back.
Interference of this type is not
a consistent manifestation. Characteristics
of the victim and propagation modes can
be significantly different even in
apparently identical aircraft.
The Hawkers had features in their annunciation
sensing and response systems that were grand-fathered
over from some rather arcane technology and design
philosophies. A polite way of suggesting every
ship had dozens of potential victims designed
to be problem children.
In spite of obvious vulnerabilities, the
percentage of problem children was relatively
low . . . but a pain in the what's-it to
fix . . . and every fix was a band-aid.
The fact that you're a solitary observer
of the problem cited is not unusual. Further,
fixing the problem COULD be time consuming
and expensive . . . been there and done
that on more than one program!
As long as the effects do not present a
safety of flight condition, I suggest
that further investigation is more
academic than practical . . . but we
would like to hear what you discover.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF antenna in the tail |
Had a dentist appointment 33 miles away this
morning . . . did some 'asphalt engineering'
on this thread . . .
I occurred to me that the design might be more
easily fabricated, installed and maintained if
the chassis connector originally suggested were
replaced with a BNCF->BNCF bulkhead feed thru
like:Bu
https://goo.gl/XDTtod
The feed line from the transceiver would be
terminated in a BNCM cable connector as
before. Instead of terminating the radiator
with a solder joint at the connector, it too
would be fitted with a BNCM cable connector
so that it could be detached without disturbing
the ground plane.
This style of connector seems a likely
candidate:
https://goo.gl/VLjQXH
Solder a short stub of 20AWG wire into the
center pin to facilitate connection to the end
of the radiator's 'flexy' section. Cover with
heat shrink. With the pin fully seated in the
connector, back-fill the connector shell with
JB weld or other epoxy. The connector clamp
ring, gasket and compression nut are discarded.
By the way, the ground plane doesn't need to
be tucked up tight against the bottom of the
radiator conduit. Several inches of radiator
could be used to jump a short gap from bottom
of conduit to the ground plane without serious
effect.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | OV sensing in Z-12 |
Well, I'm starting to question my powers of analysis (or at least my
memory). While pondering OV protection with dual alternators (using
something less expensive than the B&C units), I perused drawing Z-12.
Should I assume that the aux alternator must be left disabled until needed?
It appears that having both alts on line would result in both OV protection
circuits firing, if either alt had an OV event.
What I'd like to achieve (alternative engine with auto style engine
control) is both alternators (identical capacity) operating all the time,
with OV protection taking out only the bad alternator.
Thoughts?
Charlie
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OV sensing in Z-12 |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Charlie,
I agree that both over-voltage modules would trip simultaneously.
Options:
1. Like you said, only turn on one alternator at a time.
2. Insert diodes 747-DSA300i45NA in the alternator B leads and connect the over-voltage
protection upstream of each diode.
3. Monitor the current on each B lead. In an over voltage condition, shut off
only the alternator that is putting out the highest current. This option requires
the design of an electronic circuit.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480281#480281
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
There is a recent thread on VansAirforce about the electric fuel pump 5 amp fuse
blowing as a result of low battery voltage.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=160595
I would have attributed the blown fuse to some other cause, except that two pilots
reported the same symptoms on two different aircraft. The fuel pump is Facet
part number 40105. According to Aircraft Spruce, that pump draws 1 amp.
I measured the current draw on my spare pump (same make and model) at 3/4 amp
with a light load. When I connected a 6 volt battery to the pump instead of 12
volts, the pump quit working and the current dropped to about 1/2 amp. I do
not have a power supply with adjustable voltage output. Does the current draw
for a DC pump motor actually increase as the voltage decreases? And even if
it did, which I doubt, the current would have to increase by a factor of 5 in
order to blow the fuse.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480282#480282
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
I called it a pump motor but, judging by the sound, the Facet 40105 is more likely
to be a solenoid that operates a piston. It is advertised as solid state,
which probably refers to the pulsing control circuit.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480283#480283
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OV sensing in Z-12 |
At 05:25 PM 5/21/2018, you wrote:
>Well, I'm starting to question my powers of analysis (or at least my
>memory). While pondering OV protection with dual alternators (using
>something less expensive than the B&C units), I perused drawing
>Z-12. Should I assume that the aux alternator must be left disabled
>until needed? It appears that having both alts on line would result
>in both OV protection circuits firing, if either alt had an OV event.
The B&C SB-1 controller features automatic enabling
of the standby alternator upon failure of the main
alternator . . . along with an annunciator system
to notify the pilot of the event.
One COULD use a more generic controller and
forego up the auto switching/annunciation feature.
You still need low voltage annunciation. If you get
a light, you turn the main alternator OFF; the standby
alternator ON.
The B&C products do feature 'selective trip' . . . a
circuit that deduces whether or not the client
alternator is the source of the ov event. But
with only one alternator operating at any time,
plain vanilla ov protection will function as desired.
>What I'd like to achieve (alternative engine with auto style engine
>control) is both alternators (identical capacity) operating all the
>time, with OV protection taking out only the bad alternator.
Why two alternators ON at the same time? Making
the transition from main to s/b alternator is
not a 'tense' event. If the main alternator quits,
you can finish your cup of coffee and fold the
map up before you start flipping switches. The
auto-change and annunciation were features that
were more bells-and-whistles designed to tickle
the fancy of A36 drivers and Beech engineers.
It was easy to do as we wanted to monitor b-lead
current on the SD20 and enable easy load shedding.
If you're wanting to run two full sized alternators,
then I would agree that the SB-1 if a bit of over-kill.
If it were my airplane, they would be alternator #1
and #2 and swap back and forth in preflight.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OV sensing in Z-12 |
At 06:25 PM 5/21/2018, you wrote:
>
>Charlie,
>I agree that both over-voltage modules would trip simultaneously.
>Options:
>1. Like you said, only turn on one alternator at a time.
I like that . . .
>2. Insert diodes 747-DSA300i45NA in the alternator B leads and
>connect the over-voltage protection upstream of each diode.
>3. Monitor the current on each B lead. In an over voltage
>condition, shut off only the alternator that is putting out the
>highest current. This option requires the design of an electronic circuit.
Achhh! . . . Joseph . . . go wash your mouth out with soap.
You go to bed without your Oreos and milk . . .
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse? |
At 06:54 PM 5/21/2018, you wrote:
>
>There is a recent thread on VansAirforce about the electric fuel
>pump 5 amp fuse blowing as a result of low battery voltage.
>http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=160595
>I would have attributed the blown fuse to some other cause, except
>that two pilots reported the same symptoms on two different
>aircraft. The fuel pump is Facet part number 40105. According to
>Aircraft Spruce, that pump draws 1 amp. I measured the current draw
>on my spare pump (same make and model) at 3/4 amp with a light
>load. When I connected a 6 volt battery to the pump instead of 12
>volts, the pump quit working and the current dropped to about 1/2
>amp. I do not have a power supply with adjustable voltage
>output. Does the current draw for a DC pump motor actually increase
>as the voltage decreases? And even if it did, which I doubt, the
>current would have to increase by a factor of 5 in order to blow the fuse.
Hmmmm . . . that's a strange one. Those pumps
are strange creatures that don't behave like
what we would expect of a motor driven device.
The 'thumping' noise is a piston being magnetically
driven to compress a spring. The piston is hollow
and has check valves in each end. The 'power stroke'
compresses the spring and reduces pressure on the inlet
side. Fuel is forced past the inlet check valve
filling the piston. At the end of the power pulse,
spring pressure works to return the piston to
its resting position, increasing pressure on
the fuel which closes the inlet valve and opens
the outlet valve. Spring force and piston motion
pushes fuel out of the pump.
Emacs!
Output pressure is purely a function of spring
force. Output flow is purely a function of how
much flow leaves the pump at the calibrated
pressure.
The spring, piston volume and pulse rate are
adjusted to produce the desired MAXIMUM flow
at a pressure not exceeding that which is
established by the spring.
Hence, blocking the outlet off completely does
not increase current draw . . . in fact, the
energy consumed by the pump is relatively constant
whether or not the device has fuel moving through
it.
To have one of these devices draw an extra-ordinary
current value suggests a fault in the pump power
feeder or a shorted winding in the pump's stroke
motor.
I would troubleshoot by (1) replacing the pump.
I've measured energy consumption with agile
data acquisition systems that deal with the
very intermittent nature of current flow.
It's difficult to get a 'reading' with ordinary
hand held instruments . . . but you can get
a general sense of magnitude with an analog
ammeter.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OV sensing in Z-12 |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
I can handle the soap in my mouth.
But I am NOT going to bed without my Oreos and milk!
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480287#480287
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Bob,
Thanks for the reply and explanation about how the pump works. I had neglected
to mention that the fuel pump fuse blows during engine cranking. I do not think
that makes any difference to the pump, other than causing a voltage sag.
I measured the current draw of my spare pump with an analog Simpson 260. I am
as mystified as you. Unfortunately the plane is located hundreds of miles away.
All I have to go by is second hand information.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480288#480288
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Bob,
Thanks for the reply and explanation about how the pump works. I had neglected
to mention that the fuel pump fuse blows during engine cranking. I do not think
that makes any difference to the pump, other than causing a voltage sag.
I measured the current draw of my spare pump with an analog Simpson 260. I am
as mystified as you. Unfortunately the plane is located hundreds of miles away.
All I have to go by is second hand information.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
May 09, 2018 - May 21, 2018
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-oj