AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-ok

May 21, 2018 - June 04, 2018



      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480290#480290
      
      
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Date: May 21, 2018
From: ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
Hi Joe; Try hooking up a 9 volt lantern battery. These are very handy for trouble-shooting and represent about the lowest your starter (and fuel pump) might see while cranking the engine. So you can see what happens without actually cranking. Cheers! Stu. ----- Original Message ----- From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 4:54:02 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse? There is a recent thread on VansAirforce about the electric fuel pump 5 amp fuse blowing as a result of low battery voltage. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=160595 I would have attributed the blown fuse to some other cause, except that two pilots reported the same symptoms on two different aircraft. The fuel pump is Facet part number 40105. According to Aircraft Spruce, that pump draws 1 amp. I measured the current draw on my spare pump (same make and model) at 3/4 amp with a light load. When I connected a 6 volt battery to the pump instead of 12 volts, the pump quit working and the current dropped to about 1/2 amp. I do not have a power supply with adjustable voltage output. Does the current draw for a DC pump motor actually increase as the voltage decreases? And even if it did, which I doubt, the current would have to increase by a factor of 5 in order to blow the fuse. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480282#480282 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <mike(at)vision499.com>
Subject: Shower of Sparks
Date: May 21, 2018
Tested my spark again to-day with the Neon spark plug tester. With the Shower of sparks disconnected I could not see a flash in the neon but it was in very bright light. With the Shower of Sparks connected I could see a very strong flash in the neon bulb, assumed all is good. Will attempt first engine start in the next few weeks and wiil report back Thanks again Mike From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr ic-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE Sent: May 17, 2018 8:52 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks Mike: You are quite welcome. Did you notice how long the spark lasted? Way longer than just a Mag spark. Easy test. Barry On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 11:19 PM, > wrote: Thank you very much for the help, The spark plug test light worked like a charm, thanks for the good idea Keep well Mike From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <mailto:owner-aeroelectr ic-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matro nics.com ] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE Sent: May 15, 2018 6:05 PM > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks Mike: To test the Shower Of Sparks - Disconnect the Starter. You can do this easily by pulling the control wire to the Starter Relay. This way you can activate the Shower Of Sparks (SOS) and LISTEN for the BUZ Z and SAFELY not have to worry about a spinning prop. You can also remove the spark plug wire from each of the spark plugs. Do you want to check out the Mag and the Spark Plug wires as well as the SO S? If so here is another TRICK! Go to a automotive store and get the Clear Plastic Spark Plug test light... It has a Neon bulb inside. You hook up the test light to the wires. Re-Connect the control wire on the starter relay and CRANK AWAY. You will see a longer time duration to the spark than if there was NO SOS. And, it will be a nice bright light. Again as compared to a standard Impuls e Mag. On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 8:32 PM, > wrote: ision499.com> > I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks, 1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it =8BBarry - I never had a over heating problem. I would guess and eas y Minute.=8B 2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type o f spark or sparks should I expect. =8BBarry - A standard Blueish Spark of Longer Duration.=8B 3. Are there any other tests that I can perform. =8BBarry - See above. =8BBest of Luck,=8B Barry=8B Thanks Mike --- Virus-free. www.avast.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: OV sensing in Z-12
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 21, 2018
On 5/21/2018 7:47 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > At 05:25 PM 5/21/2018, you wrote: >> Well, I'm starting to question my powers of analysis (or at least my >> memory). While pondering OV protection with dual alternators (using >> something less expensive than the B&C units), I perused drawing Z-12. >> Should I assume that the aux alternator must be left disabled until >> needed? It appears that having both alts on line would result in both >> OV protection circuits firing, if either alt had an OV event. > > The B&C SB-1 controller features automatic enabling > of the standby alternator upon failure of the main > alternator . . . along with an annunciator system > to notify the pilot of the event. > > One COULD use a more generic controller and > forego up the auto switching/annunciation feature. > > You still need low voltage annunciation. If you get > a light, you turn the main alternator OFF; the standby > alternator ON. > > The B&C products do feature 'selective trip' . . . a > circuit that deduces whether or not the client > alternator is the source of the ov event. But > with only one alternator operating at any time, > plain vanilla ov protection will function as desired. > > >> What I'd like to achieve (alternative engine with auto style engine >> control) is both alternators (identical capacity) operating all the >> time, with OV protection taking out only the bad alternator. > > Why two alternators ON at the same time? Making > the transition from main to s/b alternator is > not a 'tense' event. If the main alternator quits, > you can finish your cup of coffee and fold the > map up before you start flipping switches. The > auto-change and annunciation were features that > were more bells-and-whistles designed to tickle > the fancy of A36 drivers and Beech engineers. > It was easy to do as we wanted to monitor b-lead > current on the SD20 and enable easy load shedding. > If you're wanting to run two full sized alternators, > then I would agree that the SB-1 if a bit of over-kill. > > If it were my airplane, they would be alternator #1 > and #2 and swap back and forth in preflight. > > > Bob . . . > No disagreement on your points. What's driving my thought exercise is the attempt to integrate my very different engine subsystem and have the a/c operationally function as close as is reasonably possible to 'traditional' operation with a conventional mags & carb Lyc. I already have the engine bus fed directly from the battery through a high current switch, independent of the a/c master contactor, and tentatively, one alternator feeding there, as well. The other alt feeds the load side of the master contactor (typical tie point). I'm probably overthinking this, as usual... Thanks, Charlie --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
At 09:20 PM 5/21/2018, you wrote: > >Bob, >Thanks for the reply and explanation about how the pump works. I >had neglected to mention that the fuel pump fuse blows during engine >cranking. I do not think that makes any difference to the pump, >other than causing a voltage sag. I measured the current draw of my >spare pump with an analog Simpson 260. I am as mystified as >you. Unfortunately the plane is located hundreds of miles >away. All I have to go by is second hand information. Yeah . . . been there. I can't begin to tally the time expended trying to deduce root cause of a condition based on somebody else's observations and understanding conveyed by telephone or email. If we could just put our hands on the thing for a few minutes, the solution would probably become clear. Hmmmm . . . the modern putt-putt pumps do have solid state exciters for the motor coil . . . I've been pondering the potential for the electronics to go into some kind of 'crowbar' condition during the brownout transient . . . Here's an exemplar circuit snatched from patent application 2005/0089418A1: Emacs! Good ol' 555 and a FET . . . hard to see how this might present the symptom . . . It this a consistent phenomenon . . . pops fuse every time? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VHF antenna in the tail
From: GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: May 22, 2018
/Le 20/05/2018 16:26, user9253 a crit: / > I would try a 1/4 wave antenna with ground plane. > Of course the small diameter tail is not the ideal shape and size for > a ground plane. But it might be good enough./ Joe and all, Thank you to all who responded. I guess I'll follow your advice and build a mock-up of the "sub-optimal" ground plane. And then conduct some experiments - for instance calling aircraft flying nearby etc. As for other informations, the all moving tailplane is to be carbon fiber, and the carbon tips are already fabricated. Interesting info from Jim Weir, but of use for *glass* airplanes. Also our project has a tiny vertical fin and could not accomodate a 1/2 wave antenna. Do not hesitate to keep sending advices ! Will keep you posted, -- Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Thanks for that suggestion Stu. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480298#480298 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Bob, Below are quotes from the original poster: > Fuel pump fuse blows out at each start > Hi all, can someone please point me in direction of troubleshooting of at each start fuel pump fuse blows out, starter feels sluggish in rotating the prop, battery is sufficiently charged. Thanks in advance. > (Blows) When key switch is turned to rotate engine at startup. > Tested battery by advanced auto store and CCA value came out for 33 ( rated 170). -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480299#480299 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: Earl Schroeder <n233ee(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Ah, Joe. A Simpson 260.. now that brings back memories. The battery connectors on my have given up the ghost. I need to design a suitable battery holder replacement. Any ideas? Thanks for all your informative posts! > On May 21, 2018, at 9:16 PM, user9253 wrote: > > > Bob, > Thanks for the reply and explanation about how the pump works. I had neglected to mention that the fuel pump fuse blows during engine cranking. I do not think that makes any difference to the pump, other than causing a voltage sag. I measured the current draw of my spare pump with an analog Simpson 260. I am as mystified as you. Unfortunately the plane is located hundreds of miles away. All I have to go by is second hand information. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480288#480288 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2018
From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Radio or Television Tower Buzz
An easy thing to check.=C2- I would get horrible feedback whenever I keye d my mic.=C2- One day I turned down the volume control on my headset (and up on the intercom for the same net volume), and the problem went away. But, it's like Bob said.=C2- You're picking up interference on some part of the circuit and then it is getting amplified.=C2- The solution is chas ing down and shielding/attenuating the interference from that ONE spot out of all the circuits.=C2- Like me, you'll probably find the solution by ac cident some day. On Monday, May 21, 2018 11:07 AM, "mike>bentley" wr ote: com> Thanks for the input everyone. My plane seems to be the only one this is ha ppening to as I've flown the same route in everything from Cubs to Challeng er 300's and no interference. I'll try what you all suggested and report ba ck. Thanks again. -------- Mike Bentley Joplin, MO N5498B Kitfox Model 4-1200 Jabiru 2200=C2- #438 Rotec Aerosport LCH Heads Prince Prop (64 x 34) Ellison EFS-2 Throttle Body Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480274#480274 - S - WIKI - - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > I've been pondering the potential for the electronics to go into some kind of 'crowbar' condition during the brownout transient . . . > > Here's an exemplar circuit snatched from patent application 2005/0089418A1: Link to the patent: https://goo.gl/nLh81H Reading through the patent description, two possibilities, both admittedly remote, come to mind: 1. TVS diode D4 has seen too much abuse and has failed short. The brief current spike that results when power is applied is sufficient to blow the fuse but not to blow D4 clear. 2. MOSFET Q1 has failed short. The patent application says this about the solenoid coil: In a preferred embodiment, [the] coil is made of 21 gauge magnet wire and is a 2mH inductor with a resistance of 1.4 ohms. With Q1 shorted, this would draw >8A at 12V, easily blowing a 5A fuse. The first failure would probably present as a dead short to a continuity meter across the pumps supply wires. The second might not register as a short, but would measure as a very low resistance. Either way, putting a meter across the pump would prove or debunk my theory. Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480306#480306 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: VHF antenna in the tail
At 07:33 AM 5/22/2018, you wrote: >Le 20/05/2018 =C3 16:26, user9253 a =C3=A9crit=C2 : >> >>"user9253" >> >>I would try a 1/4 wave antenna with ground >>plane. Of course the small diameter tail is >>not the ideal shape and size for a ground plane. But it might be good enough. > >Joe and all, > >Thank you to all who responded. >I guess I'll follow your advice and build a >mock-up of the "sub-optimal" ground plane. And >then conduct some experiments - for instance >calling aircraft flying nearby etc. the most significant benchmark for performance will be achieving lowest possible SWR over the frequencies of interest. As long as the majority of your radiating conductor is oriented vertically in the conduit, you're going to experience adequate performance. Jim Wier published a study on various factors influencing line of sight communications about 20 years ago . . . probably got a copy around here somewhere . . . The upshot of his piece was the realization that it takes very little power to communicate over large distances assuming line of sight and serviceable antenna efficiencies. All other things held constant, you'll probably observe no difference in utility between a laboratory grade antenna and a relatively poor DIY product. The tallest and most tractable hurdles are getting your antenna to accept the transceiver's power and minimizing lossy (high resistance) features in the design. This thread should probably include some exploration of another option. Some years ago, there was a product marketed as the "Miracle Air Whip". One of several reviews can be see here. https://goo.gl/WQyNmu We had some discussion about the product here on the List. I published a couple of images . . . https://goo.gl/ssf7CG https://goo.gl/upHYTB Variations on this theme have been proposed and published in the ham radio venues for decades. https://goo.gl/zSQpu1 This design will be about 35" long . . . how long is the conduit extending up the vertical fin? While rudimentary in the physics of design and performance, the practical solution needs to select materials and assembly methods that are suited for the less than gentle environment of an airplane's tail cone. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
For the benefit of those following via email echo, in my previous post, I meant TVS diode D2, not D4. I've edited my original post on the forum to correct this error. Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480308#480308 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Without seeing your battery holders and exactly what is wrong, it is hard to make a suggestion. But here is a link to battery holders and parts from Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/Power/Battery-Holders-Clips-Contacts/_/N-cicxgZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0y6wzZ1yuke34 I have even soldered wires to batteries before using a soldering gun and short contact time to minimize damage to the cell. I remember that Bob has described welding wires to dry cells, but I can not remember how he did it. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480313#480313 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
At 10:15 AM 5/22/2018, you wrote: > > >nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > > I've been pondering the potential for the > electronics to go into some kind of 'crowbar' > condition during the brownout transient . . . > > > > Here's an exemplar circuit snatched from patent application 2005/0089418A1: > > >Link to the patent: https://goo.gl/nLh81H > >Reading through the patent description, two >possibilities, both admittedly remote, come to mind: > >1. TVS diode D4 has seen too much abuse and has >failed short. The brief current spike that >results when power is applied is sufficient to >blow the fuse but not to blow D4 clear. If a junction device goes catastrophic it generally dead shorts or blows open (usually scattering bits of plastic around). If this diode was shorted, it would pop the fuse immediately on application of battery power. >2. MOSFET Q1 has failed short. The patent >application says this about the solenoid coil: >=9CIn a preferred embodiment, [the] coil is made >of 21 gauge magnet wire and is a 2mH inductor >with a resistance of 1.4 ohms.=9D With Q1 >shorted, this would draw >8A at 12V, easily blowing a 5A fuse. I like this one . . . but again, the differential is that the fuse would blow immediately upon application of battery power . . . and not wait for the starter to engage. >The first failure would probably present as a >dead short to a continuity meter across the >pump=99s supply wires. The second might not >register as a short, but would measure as a very >low resistance. Either way, putting a meter >across the pump would prove or debunk my theory. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
At 12:20 PM 5/22/2018, you wrote: > >Without seeing your battery holders and exactly what is wrong, it is >hard to make a suggestion. But here is a link to battery holders >and parts from Mouser: >https://www.mouser.com/Power/Battery-Holders-Clips-Contacts/_/N-cicxgZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0y6wzZ1yuke34 >I have even soldered wires to batteries before using a soldering gun >and short contact time to minimize damage to the cell. I remember >that Bob has described welding wires to dry cells, but I can not >remember how he did it. I did a comic book on this topic but durned if I can put my hands on it. The process is pretty simple. I generally glue the cells together in the shape of the finished array. A tiny bead of E6000 or similar at the tangent line of adjacent cells works really well . . . observe the +/- orientation for future jumpers . . . they're really hard to get apart after the glue dries. I then 'scuff' the solder spot locations with a Dremel cutoff wheel . . . or file . . . or sharp knife. Use a fully heated iron to 'tin' the spots . . . get on, get off quick. 63/37 solder with good flux. Takes less than a second. Tin the ends of your jumper/lead wires and then tack to the solder spots cited above. The magic dust is a mixture of clean, hot and fast. I've never damaged an alkaline or NiMh cell with this technique. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Subject: Re: Shower of Sparks
Excellent Mike, Best of luck. Barry On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 11:04 PM, wrote: > Tested my spark again to-day with the Neon spark plug tester. > > > With the Shower of sparks disconnected I could not see a flash in the neo n > but it was in very bright light. > > > With the Shower of Sparks connected I could see a very strong flash in > the neon bulb, assumed all is good. > > Will attempt first engine start in the next few weeks and wiil report bac k > > > Thanks again > > > Mike > > > *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *FLYaDIVE > *Sent:* May 17, 2018 8:52 PM > > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks > > > Mike: > > > You are quite welcome. > > > Did you notice how long the spark lasted? > > Way longer than just a Mag spark. > > Easy test. > > > Barry > > > On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 11:19 PM, wrote: > > Thank you very much for the help, > > > The spark plug test light worked like a charm, thanks for the good idea > > > Keep well > > > Mike > > > *From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *FLYaDIVE > *Sent:* May 15, 2018 6:05 PM > *To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: AeroElectric-List: Shower of Sparks > > > Mike: > > > To test the Shower Of Sparks - > > Disconnect the Starter. > > You can do this easily by pulling the control wire to the Starter Relay. > > This way you can activate the Shower Of Sparks (SOS) and LISTEN for the > BUZZ and SAFELY not have to worry about a spinning prop. > > You can also remove the spark plug wire from each of the spark plugs. > > Do you want to check out the Mag and the Spark Plug wires as well as the > SOS? > > If so here is another TRICK! > > Go to a automotive store and get the Clear Plastic Spark Plug test > light... It has a Neon bulb inside. > > You hook up the test light to the wires. > > Re-Connect the control wire on the starter relay and CRANK AWAY. > > You will see a longer time duration to the spark than if there was NO SO S. > > And, it will be a nice bright light. Again as compared to a standard > Impulse Mag. > > > On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 8:32 PM, wrote: > > > I have installed a LOM engine with a Shower of Sparks, > > 1. How long can I safely keep the unit on (buzzing) while testing it > > =8BBarry - I never had a over heating problem. I would guess and e asy > Minute.=8B > > > 2. When I turn the motor over and ground the plug to the engine what type > of spark or sparks should I expect. > > =8BBarry - A standard Blueish Spark of Longer Duration.=8B > > > 3. Are there any other tests that I can perform. > > =8BBarry - See above. > > > =8BBest of Luck,=8B > > > Barry=8B > > > Thanks > > Mike > > > --- > > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
Joe: I really do not think I am going to be saying anything that you already do not know. 12 VDC @ 1 Amp = 12 Watts Considering the charge voltage at 14.2 VDC the Wattage becomes 14.2 Watts. If the Voltage drops to half 6 VDC and the pumps is still trying to work, you have I = W/6VDC or 14.2 / 6 = 2.37 Amps 12 / 6 = 2 Amps The Amperage Doubles. The only problem is the Pump is not a restive load it is both resistive and inductive. So the current draw is not uniform. It is very possible that the current can well spike to above the fused 5 Amp limit. The 'solid state' part of the pump is only the opening and closing of the contacts for the coil. Which may or may not be able to handle the increased current? Barry On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 7:54 PM, user9253 wrote: > > There is a recent thread on VansAirforce about the electric fuel pump 5 > amp fuse blowing as a result of low battery voltage. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=160595 > I would have attributed the blown fuse to some other cause, except that > two pilots reported the same symptoms on two different aircraft. The fuel > pump is Facet part number 40105. According to Aircraft Spruce, that pump > draws 1 amp. I measured the current draw on my spare pump (same make and > model) at 3/4 amp with a light load. When I connected a 6 volt battery to > the pump instead of 12 volts, the pump quit working and the current dropped > to about 1/2 amp. I do not have a power supply with adjustable voltage > output. Does the current draw for a DC pump motor actually increase as the > voltage decreases? And even if it did, which I doubt, the current would > have to increase by a factor of 5 in order to blow the fuse. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480282#480282 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "Eric Page" <edpav8r(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > If a junction device goes catastrophic it generally dead shorts or blows open (usually scattering bits of plastic around). If this diode was shorted, it would pop the fuse immediately on application of battery power. > > [] > > I like this one . . . but again, the differential is that the fuse would blow immediately upon application of battery power . . . and not wait for the starter to engage. Aaah, yes, of course. I think I got led astray when Joe wrote that the fuse blew upon engine cranking. The fuel pump would obviously already be running by then. Unless these aircraft somehow have an unintentional path by which the starter or its contactor circuit can draw current through the pump fuse, Im out of ideas. Eric Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480323#480323 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
The wattage for most electrical loads varies directly with the applied voltage. As the voltage goes down, so does the current and wattage go down. An exception is a switching power supply. But it is unlikely that the Facet pump has a switching power supply. Even if the pump current tripled from 1 amp to 3 amps, a 5 amp fuse should not blow. Looking at the schematic, there is an electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the pump, if that matters. The Facet pump is used in lots of airplanes. If it blew fuses while cranking the engine with a weak battery, it seems that there would be more reports of that. My guess is that there is something unique about this one particular airplane. It will be interesting to learn if a new battery cures the fuse blowing problem. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480326#480326 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
Agreed Joe; But, as you say 'most'... When a shunt motor gets less voltage the motor does not stop, it tries to perform the same job as if it had full voltage. What becomes compensated is the current draw. Sitting behind a computer as we are; We don't know the condition of the pump, wires, wire size or connections. And as you say: "My guess is that there is something unique about this one particular airplane." I do have Fact pumps: Both the very old 20+ year old and newer 8 year old styles. I can hook then up to a heavy duty power supply and play with the voltage and see what results we get. Won't be able to do it till next week though. Side Note: Many certified aircraft complete the circuit by completing the Ground. Grounds have lots of resistance issues. Barry On Tue, May 22, 2018 at 7:42 PM, user9253 wrote: > > The wattage for most electrical loads varies directly with the applied > voltage. As the voltage goes down, so does the current and wattage go > down. An exception is a switching power supply. But it is unlikely that > the Facet pump has a switching power supply. Even if the pump current > tripled from 1 amp to 3 amps, a 5 amp fuse should not blow. Looking at the > schematic, there is an electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the pump, if > that matters. > The Facet pump is used in lots of airplanes. If it blew fuses while > cranking the engine with a weak battery, it seems that there would be more > reports of that. My guess is that there is something unique about this one > particular airplane. It will be interesting to learn if a new battery > cures the fuse blowing problem. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480326#480326 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
But, as you say 'most'... When a shunt motor gets less voltage the motor does not stop, it tries to perform the same job as if it had full voltage. What becomes compensated is the current draw. Shunt, PM and Brushless motor draw current proportional to load TORQUE. It is limited at stall by the motor's series resistance where Eapp/Rohms = Amps which is proportional to stall torque during locked rotor conditions. If a motor is driving a constant torque load, then current will not go up as applied voltage is reduced. The speed will fall off until such time as stall torque at that voltage is realized whereupon motion stops. I do have Fact pumps: Both the very old 20+ year old and newer 8 year old styles. I can hook then up to a heavy duty power supply and play with the voltage and see what results we get. Won't be able to do it till next week though. No Facet pump is driven by the classic DC motor with a rotating shaft. The Facet pumps have roots in Bendix designs that date back to 1920 or earlier. These are solenoid driven pistons, springs and check valves that produce one 'squirt' of fuel for each 'thump' of the solenoid motor. Here's a partial listing of patents describing the history of these pumps. Emacs! The current draw of these pumps is limited by resistance of the solenoid winding which is averaged by the intermittent nature of the electrical pulse duration. Most of these pumps have a very low electrical duty cycle which produces an average current that is a small fraction of the potential flow that would manifest if the switching electronics failed . . . see earlier schematic posted. The Facet pumps have no operating characteristics in common with motor driven fuel pumps. And no DC motor draws more current with decreasing voltage UNLESS mechanical load is increasing as motor speed drops. Given that pump torque is proportional to output pressure, we won't see this happening with a rotary pumping system. I'm not aware of any load we might drive with a DC motor that increases torque as rpm falls. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Preparing to wire up a small hydraulic pump to operate amphibious float wheels. Spec sheet on the parker pump unit indicates to use a DPDT center off switch rated for up to 20A DC at 12V. Looking at B&C S700 series -1. My concern is that the switch is rated for up to 15 VAC. Equivalent, or should I continue my search for a switch? If so, any pointers appreciated. [Wink] Dave (the novice electrician/soon to be float flyer) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480329#480329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Barry, that is a great idea about using a variable voltage power supply. Wish I had one. About the pump. It does not have a motor. It is a solenoid driven piston. The owner of the aircraft intends to fly tomorrow with a new battery. I am looking forward to his report, to see if a new battery cures the fuel pump fuse blowing problem while starting the engine. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480331#480331 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
[quote="user9253"]Bob, Thanks for the reply and explanation about how the pump works. I had neglected to mention that the fuel pump fuse blows during engine cranking. I do not think that makes any difference to the pump, other than causing a voltage sag. I measured the current draw of my spare pump with an analog Simpson 260. I am as mystified as you. Unfortunately the plane is located hundreds of miles away. All I have to go by is second hand information.[/quote] I've read through the comments as well as the Vans forum posts Joe references and have something to add that might confuse the issue even more (or maybe not). I'm a member of a flying club with 5 Piper Cherokees and one Mooney. Last fall one of the members reported the same problem (fuel pump failed during cranking). I doubted the two events were related and asked the A&P the club used, to replace the fuse and I would watch the problem. A few days later the fuse (allegedly) blew again during the cranking cycle. Again, I doubted the cranking had anything to do with the fuse. It did not make any sense to me. I should note, that this plane was also having an intermittent problem with a "tired battery" during starting, particularly, now that the weather was getting colder (I should note, this was last fall in Minnesota). A day or so after the fuse was replaced the second time I took the plane for a flight myself. Pre-flight went fine and I started the fuel pump and began to crank the engine. The weather was probably 30 degrees and the battery had a hard time turning the engine. After the flight I checked the fuel pump again and sure enough, it's fuse had blown. I was perplexed as to how the fuel pump fuse failure could be related to starting the engine. Lower voltage during cranking was likely but I assumed this would also result in lower current (as noted by many in this post). So, I assumed there might be something wrong with the fuel pump and had the A&P install a new one. Within a few days after the new fuel pump was installed, the problem resurfaced. Throughout all of this, the battery continued to be an issue when starting with a cold engine. Winter was coming and the battery problem would only get worse. The battery passed the A&P's load testing but it was at least 4 years old. So, following the best advice from the Aeroelectric connection, I asked the A&P to replace the battery with an RG (Recumbent Gas) battery. Problem solved. Plane started all winter without fail and no more blown fuel pump fuses. My only thought was that the low battery was resulting in a voltage spike, immediately after starting. The high voltage spike that would catch the fuel pump with high voltage and create an over current situation. It could be that the regulator on this plane allowed for higher than normal voltages. I did check the JPI data on the plane and yes, there were many small events that showed up to 15.1 volts but we generally don't have avionics powered up until after starting so there was no JPI data during the start cycle. I think the regulator could be set a little higher on this plane or it may have a tendency to overshoot. I don't have enough details prove this out. In any case, replacing the fuel pump did not solve the problem. Replacing the battery did and I've not seen this issue on any other planes but their JPI records did not show the high voltage events that this Archer did. For what its worth... Dan Theis. -------- Scratch building Sonex #1362 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480332#480332 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Thanks Dan for that report. So it seems that the Facet fuel pump current does go up during engine cranking. To others, how can this be explained by the laws of physics? -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480333#480333 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
Joe: You just made me think ... I wonder... What would happen if the boost pump was installed backwards? Not electrically, since that part is solid-state. I WILL run the test next week. Barry On Tue, May 22, 2018 at 10:17 PM, user9253 wrote: > > Barry, that is a great idea about using a variable voltage power supply. > Wish I had one. About the pump. It does not have a motor. It is a > solenoid driven piston. The owner of the aircraft intends to fly tomorrow > with a new battery. I am looking forward to his report, to see if a new > battery cures the fuel pump fuse blowing problem while starting the engine. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480331#480331 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 22, 2018
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
Gaggle: Just had another thought... I know this to be an issue with Grumman's. The Boost Pump and the Strobes are on the same fuse. And when things are handled wrong - The fuse pops. So, the procedure for starting is: All lights off - Except for the rotating beacon - UNLESS you do not have a rotating beacon. Boost Pump - ON Wait for fuel pressure to build and clicking to slow down. Boost Pump - OFF Start Engine. Bring the rest of the plane On-Line - Lights and Avionics. Barry On Tue, May 22, 2018 at 10:26 PM, dj_theis wrote: > > [quote="user9253"]Bob, > Thanks for the reply and explanation about how the pump works. I had > neglected to mention that the fuel pump fuse blows during engine cranking. > I do not think that makes any difference to the pump, other than causing a > voltage sag. I measured the current draw of my spare pump with an analog > Simpson 260. I am as mystified as you. Unfortunately the plane is located > hundreds of miles away. All I have to go by is second hand > information.[/quote] > > I've read through the comments as well as the Vans forum posts Joe > references and have something to add that might confuse the issue even more > (or maybe not). > I'm a member of a flying club with 5 Piper Cherokees and one Mooney. Last > fall one of the members reported the same problem (fuel pump failed during > cranking). I doubted the two events were related and asked the A&P the > club used, to replace the fuse and I would watch the problem. A few days > later the fuse (allegedly) blew again during the cranking cycle. Again, I > doubted the cranking had anything to do with the fuse. It did not make any > sense to me. I should note, that this plane was also having an > intermittent problem with a "tired battery" during starting, particularly, > now that the weather was getting colder (I should note, this was last fall > in Minnesota). > > A day or so after the fuse was replaced the second time I took the plane > for a flight myself. Pre-flight went fine and I started the fuel pump and > began to crank the engine. The weather was probably 30 degrees and the > battery had a hard time turning the engine. After the flight I checked the > fuel pump again and sure enough, it's fuse had blown. > > I was perplexed as to how the fuel pump fuse failure could be related to > starting the engine. Lower voltage during cranking was likely but I > assumed this would also result in lower current (as noted by many in this > post). So, I assumed there might be something wrong with the fuel pump and > had the A&P install a new one. > > Within a few days after the new fuel pump was installed, the problem > resurfaced. Throughout all of this, the battery continued to be an issue > when starting with a cold engine. Winter was coming and the battery > problem would only get worse. The battery passed the A&P's load testing > but it was at least 4 years old. So, following the best advice from the > Aeroelectric connection, I asked the A&P to replace the battery with an RG > (Recumbent Gas) battery. > > Problem solved. Plane started all winter without fail and no more blown > fuel pump fuses. > > My only thought was that the low battery was resulting in a voltage spike, > immediately after starting. The high voltage spike that would catch the > fuel pump with high voltage and create an over current situation. It > could be that the regulator on this plane allowed for higher than normal > voltages. I did check the JPI data on the plane and yes, there were many > small events that showed up to 15.1 volts but we generally don't have > avionics powered up until after starting so there was no JPI data during > the start cycle. I think the regulator could be set a little higher on > this plane or it may have a tendency to overshoot. I don't have enough > details prove this out. > > In any case, replacing the fuel pump did not solve the problem. Replacing > the battery did and I've not seen this issue on any other planes but their > JPI records did not show the high voltage events that this Archer did. > > For what its worth... > > Dan Theis. > > -------- > Scratch building Sonex #1362 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480332#480332 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
At 08:09 PM 5/22/2018, you wrote: > >Preparing to wire up a small hydraulic pump to operate amphibious >float wheels. >Spec sheet on the parker pump unit indicates to use a DPDT center off switch >rated for up to 20A DC at 12V. Looking at B&C S700 series -1. My >concern is that the switch is rated for up to 15 VAC. Equivalent, >or should I continue my search for a switch? If so, any pointers >appreciated. [Wink] > >Dave (the novice electrician/soon to be float flyer) What's the make and part number for the pump/motor you're working with? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
> >Within a few days after the new fuel pump was installed, the problem >resurfaced. Throughout all of this, the battery continued to be an >issue when starting with a cold engine. Winter was coming and the >battery problem would only get worse. The battery passed the A&P's >load testing but it was at least 4 years old. So, following the >best advice from the Aeroelectric connection, I asked the A&P to >replace the battery with an RG (Recumbent Gas) battery. > >Problem solved. Plane started all winter without fail and no more >blown fuel pump fuses. > >My only thought was that the low battery was resulting in a voltage >spike, immediately after starting. The high voltage spike that >would catch the fuel pump with high voltage and create an over >current situation. It could be that the regulator on this plane >allowed for higher than normal voltages. I did check the JPI data >on the plane and yes, there were many small events that showed up to >15.1 volts but we generally don't have avionics powered up until >after starting so there was no JPI data during the start cycle. I >think the regulator could be set a little higher on this plane or it >may have a tendency to overshoot. I don't have enough details prove this out. > >In any case, replacing the fuel pump did not solve the >problem. Replacing the battery did and I've not seen this issue on >any other planes but their JPI records did not show the high voltage >events that this Archer did. Good data . . . and I think some pieces are falling into place. The 555 astable multivibrator driving the pump's fet is set up to turn the fet on hard and apply full 12v to a coil with about 1 ohm resistance. Under normal ops, this produces a power pulse to the 'spring winder' on the order of 12A but only for a few tens of milliseconds out of every cycle such that AVERAGE current flowing is low . . . 1 to 2A. I'm thinking the 555 multi-vibrator becomes uncertain during a brown out event . . . and produces a longer power pulse. Recall that unlike breakers, fuses can be 'hammered' with repeated over-loads. Running a pump on the bench with a variable supply would confirm out-of-spec operation for the pump's electronics during the brown-out event. It would be easy to design a pulse generator that would stay in spec down to much lower voltages . . . but this is probably not a situation that would get Faucet's attention. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Amperage runaway
From: "BobD" <rjd(at)bobdawson.plus.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
During a flight test of my Europa on Friday, The AMPS display on my Dynon Skyview failed (the big red cross) for a while, then came back again, then failed again, and finally came back until the end of the flight of about 1 hour. I have attached a screen-shot of the Savvy Analysis tool, which shows that at the time of the failure, there appeared to be an Amperage runaway, although the voltage remains fairly constant. At the time of the first failure, we were conducting climb tests, so the engine got fairly hot (as you can see from the lower graph showing Oil Temperature), but engine temperature was normal during the second failure. Dynon suggested checking the wiring at the Shunt, or a potential EMS module failure. I took of the cowl, and inspected the wiring around the Shunt, but this seemed OK. I wondered if anyone you had seen anything similar anywhere, or have a potential explanation for what happened ? -------- Bob Dawson XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480340#480340 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/screenshot_2_175.png ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
Subject: Re: Amperage runaway
Identical symptoms on my skyview....hi Bob. My europa Tri had runaway amps followed by red x. Cycling the alt cb reset the instrument but sooner or later it would happen again. We know that on a good day the rotax can produce 17 amps so I wasn't worried. And if 70 amps were really running through the system one would expect some exciting sparks and smoke none of which ocurred. I dismantled everything and found that the little screws on shunt connectors were loose. I am in a major overhaul of the electrcial system so i havent started the engine again however if i were you i would check everything but not do anything drastic. My assumption would be that it is an instrument issue and not a fundamental issue. Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Wed, May 23, 2018, 03:38 BobD wrote: > > During a flight test of my Europa on Friday, The AMPS display on my Dynon > Skyview failed (the big red cross) for a while, then came back again, then > failed again, and finally came back until the end of the flight of about 1 > hour. I have attached a screen-shot of the Savvy Analysis tool, which shows > that at the time of the failure, there appeared to be an Amperage runaway, > although the voltage remains fairly constant. At the time of the first > failure, we were conducting climb tests, so the engine got fairly hot (as > you can see from the lower graph showing Oil Temperature), but engine > temperature was normal during the second failure. Dynon suggested checking > the wiring at the Shunt, or a potential EMS module failure. I took of the > cowl, and inspected the wiring around the Shunt, but this seemed OK. > I wondered if anyone you had seen anything similar anywhere, or have a > potential explanation for what happened ? > > -------- > Bob Dawson > XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480340#480340 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/screenshot_2_175.png > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
Subject: Testing crowbar
For initial and periodic testing of the crowbar ov module would it be acceptable to connect two little 9v batteries in series as the power source? Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
How about this circuit. Picture attached. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480351#480351 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ov_test_142.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
Joe, I should have mentioned that I am still in "kindergarten" regarding electronics. I am just not following your diagram. It looks to me like it shows disconnecting the ground wire from the ov module and connecting it to the negative terminal of a 3-6 volt battery, and then connecting the positive terminal to ground? Somehow I think I cannot be reading it correctly, and even if I am, I am baffled as to how this would test the 16 volt set point for the ov module. Ken On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 10:11 AM, user9253 wrote: > > How about this circuit. Picture attached. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480351#480351 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/ov_test_142.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
At 12:45 PM 5/23/2018, you wrote: >For initial and periodic testing of the crowbar ov module would it >be acceptable to connect two little 9v batteries in series as the power source? YES Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gautier, Thomas N (3262)" <thomas.n.gautier(at)jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: new toy
Date: May 23, 2018
Sent from my iPhone > > From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: New toy . . . > > > For those of you who suffer from quantitative > OCD like I do, there is a class of measurement > tool that has trickled down in price to where > us po' folk can afford them. > > GPS disciplined signal sources can exploit > the extra-ordinary time-keeping features of > the GPS system to produce accurate reference > signals with accuracies/stabilities out to > a buckets-full-of-zeros. > > https://goo.gl/B4hqTm > > > I've been eyeing these for several years but > finally yielded to temptation with this > puppy on eBay > > https://goo.gl/zVviDZ > > With this device driving the 10MHz reference > port on my 40 year old HP signal generator, > proving legality of the radios on our > emergency services hand-helds and trucks > is a no-brainer. > > You may have to mount an antenna outside your > facility with good sky view . . . beyond > that, these things are plug-n-play. > > > Bob . . . > Bob, For your interest and any one who misses out on the e-bay offer (they are almost gone) there is another source of low cost GPSDOs: www.sdr-kits.net They have one at a similar price to the e-bay offer but with more output frequency capability and a slightly pricier one with dual flexible frequency outputs. I dont have one and I dont know how the sdr-kits compare with e-bay precision wise but they look interesting. I know about sdr-kits because they offer a low cost 1khz-1.3Ghz vector network analyzer that I have been eyeing. Might be interesting to some of your following. Nick Gautier ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
Ken, You are reading the diagram correctly. When batteries are connected in series, they are connected negative to positive to negative to positive. When the over-voltage module is disconnected from ground, the loose wire will be positive. If you insert 3 flashlight batteries in series as shown, the voltages add up. 12 volts for the aircraft battery plus 4.5 volts for the flashlight batteries equals 16.5 If you want to trip a 5 amp circuit breaker, "D" cells should do it. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480356#480356 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
Thanks Joe. I understand now (mostly). I tried the two 9 volt batteries and that didn't work. I completely forgot about "current" needed to trip the breaker. Also, I guess I didn't really understand how the ov module works. I thought it was just a normally open micro switch that "magically" closes at 16 volts. I would have thought the ground wire of the ov module would be "dead" at less than 16 volts. But now I realize it must be more than that. It must be that current constantly flows through the ov module, but at 16 volts something else happens. I must have read an explanation in the "Connection" but obviously it didn't stick. Also, I will be tripping a 7.5 amp breaker. The buss will be powered by a 17 amp power supply (max setting is 13.9v). Do you think the three D cells will trip the larger breaker? Ken On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 12:34 PM, user9253 wrote: > > Ken, > You are reading the diagram correctly. When batteries are connected in > series, they are connected negative to positive to negative to positive. > When the over-voltage module is disconnected from ground, the loose wire > will be positive. If you insert 3 flashlight batteries in series as shown, > the voltages add up. 12 volts for the aircraft battery plus 4.5 volts for > the flashlight batteries equals 16.5 > If you want to trip a 5 amp circuit breaker, "D" cells should do it. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480356#480356 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
Ken, If you've got Bob's (B&C) OV module with red & black wires, it's effectively "God's own" zener diode, with voltage adjustment. Whenever voltage between red and black exceeds the set point (which you adjust with the little control), then the red & black wires are shorted together. You can run the test with a 12V light bulb or 12V LED between the 12V battery and the red wire, and the lamp will light when the OV module fires. That would avoid needing enough power to trip a 7.5A breaker. Charlie On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 4:13 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > Thanks Joe. I understand now (mostly). I tried the two 9 volt batteries > and that didn't work. I completely forgot about "current" needed to trip > the breaker. Also, I guess I didn't really understand how the ov module > works. I thought it was just a normally open micro switch that "magically" > closes at 16 volts. I would have thought the ground wire of the ov module > would be "dead" at less than 16 volts. But now I realize it must be more > than that. It must be that current constantly flows through the ov module, > but at 16 volts something else happens. I must have read an explanation in > the "Connection" but obviously it didn't stick. > > Also, I will be tripping a 7.5 amp breaker. The buss will be powered by a > 17 amp power supply (max setting is 13.9v). Do you think the three D cells > will trip the larger breaker? > > Ken > > > On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 12:34 PM, user9253 wrote: > >> >> Ken, >> You are reading the diagram correctly. When batteries are connected in >> series, they are connected negative to positive to negative to positive. >> When the over-voltage module is disconnected from ground, the loose wire >> will be positive. If you insert 3 flashlight batteries in series as shown, >> the voltages add up. 12 volts for the aircraft battery plus 4.5 volts for >> the flashlight batteries equals 16.5 >> If you want to trip a 5 amp circuit breaker, "D" cells should do it. >> >> -------- >> Joe Gores > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
I rigged up three D cells as Joe suggested and the OV protection system checked out okay. The breaker tripped as expected. Thanks everybody. On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 2:19 PM, Charlie England wrote: > Ken, > > If you've got Bob's (B&C) OV module with red & black wires, it's > effectively "God's own" zener diode, with voltage adjustment. Whenever > voltage between red and black exceeds the set point (which you adjust with > the little control), then the red & black wires are shorted together. > > You can run the test with a 12V light bulb or 12V LED between the 12V > battery and the red wire, and the lamp will light when the OV module fires. > That would avoid needing enough power to trip a 7.5A breaker. > > Charlie > > On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 4:13 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > >> Thanks Joe. I understand now (mostly). I tried the two 9 volt batteries >> and that didn't work. I completely forgot about "current" needed to trip >> the breaker. Also, I guess I didn't really understand how the ov module >> works. I thought it was just a normally open micro switch that "magically" >> closes at 16 volts. I would have thought the ground wire of the ov module >> would be "dead" at less than 16 volts. But now I realize it must be more >> than that. It must be that current constantly flows through the ov module, >> but at 16 volts something else happens. I must have read an explanation in >> the "Connection" but obviously it didn't stick. >> >> Also, I will be tripping a 7.5 amp breaker. The buss will be powered by a >> 17 amp power supply (max setting is 13.9v). Do you think the three D cells >> will trip the larger breaker? >> >> Ken >> >> >> On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 12:34 PM, user9253 wrote: >> >>> >>> Ken, >>> You are reading the diagram correctly. When batteries are connected in >>> series, they are connected negative to positive to negative to positive. >>> When the over-voltage module is disconnected from ground, the loose wire >>> will be positive. If you insert 3 flashlight batteries in series as shown, >>> the voltages add up. 12 volts for the aircraft battery plus 4.5 volts for >>> the flashlight batteries equals 16.5 >>> If you want to trip a 5 amp circuit breaker, "D" cells should do it. >>> >>> -------- >>> Joe Gores >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
The over-voltage module normally conducts very little current. I do not know how much but perhaps microamps or a few milliamps. Unless there is a good reason for using a 7.5 amp breaker, I would replace it with a 5 amp so that it will trip sooner. I tested a homemade over-voltage circuit one time and the breaker smoked instead of tripping. Many power supplies will automatically shut down when short circuited. I do not know the maximum current of a D cell. That 7.5 amp breaker will require more than 7.5 amps for a certain amount of time before it will trip. That is asking a lot out of a D cell. If you only want to test the O.V. module and not the breaker, disconnect at least one of the O.V. module wires from the aircraft. Connect the O.V. module and your two 9 volt batteries and a 24 volt test light all in series. Make sure battery polarity is correct, positive to red. Even if the O.V. module works at 18 volts, you will not know if it works at 16 volts. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480364#480364 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Testing crowbar
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
I should have checked for Ken's post before posting myself. :-) I am happy that it worked for you Ken. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480365#480365 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
I conducted an experiment today on my RV-12. Not wanting to ruin the PC680 aircraft battery, I disconnected it. In its place, I used the riding lawn mower battery connected with jumper cables. I thought that the lawn mower battery might have trouble cranking the Rotax 912ULS, but it cranked just fine. I left the ignition switches turned off so that the engine would not actually start. I turned on all electrical loads, including landing light, to run the battery down. I periodically cranked the engine as the battery slowly ran down. It took an hour and a half for that cheap $35 lawn mower battery to drop its voltage down to 11.5 volts. The engine still cranked, albeit noticeably slower. The fuel pump fuse never did blow. I was not able to duplicate the symptoms reported by others. Perhaps there is some magic voltage that causes the fuse to blow and I never happened to crank the engine at that particular voltage. In my airplane, the fuel pump is the only load on that 5 amp fuse. Other aircraft may have other loads on the same fuse. I know that all E-LSA and S-LSA RV-12s also have two 80 mm computer fans on the same circuit. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480366#480366 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > At 08:09 PM 5/22/2018, you wrote: > > > > > Preparing to wire up a small hydraulic pump to operate amphibious float wheels. > > Spec sheet on the parker pump unit indicates to use a DPDT center off switch > > rated for up to 20A DC at 12V. Looking at B&C S700 series -1. My concern is that the switch is rated for up to 15 VAC. Equivalent, or should I continue my search for a switch? If so, any pointers appreciated. [Wink] > > > > Dave (the novice electrician/soon to be float flyer) > > What's the make and part number for the pump/motor > you're working with? > > Bob . . . Hi Bob. thanks for replying... the pump is a Parker /OilDyne 108 series hydraulic power unit. Product code 108 AE S 32 C LB 1 V 03 03. The product code breaks down to the following: A 108 power unit, 12 VDC Permanent Magnet, Standard Pump, .0321 CIPR, 46 cu. in. reservoir, reversible locking with back pressure, 7/16-20 ports, Vertical mount, 300 psi ports. Again, based off the tech info performance chart, I find the current draw plot versus pressure comes out to be approx 13 Amps. I assume that is steady state versus start up. If the B&C 15A rated switch can tolerate the amps but with a shorter life cycle that might be OK. The switch is not going to see 10,000 cycles in my lifeftime! A diode in-line may help as well? Thanks for your interest, looking forward to seeing what I can learn!! Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480369#480369 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 23, 2018
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > At 08:09 PM 5/22/2018, you wrote: > > > > > Preparing to wire up a small hydraulic pump to operate amphibious float wheels. > > Spec sheet on the parker pump unit indicates to use a DPDT center off switch > > rated for up to 20A DC at 12V. Looking at B&C S700 series -1. My concern is that the switch is rated for up to 15 VAC. Equivalent, or should I continue my search for a switch? If so, any pointers appreciated. [Wink] > > > > Dave (the novice electrician/soon to be float flyer) > > What's the make and part number for the pump/motor > you're working with? > > Bob . . . Hi Bob. thanks for replying... the pump is a Parker /OilDyne 108 series hydraulic power unit. Product code 108 AE S 32 C LB 1 V 03 03. The product code breaks down to the following: A 108 power unit, 12 VDC Permanent Magnet, Standard Pump, .0321 CIPR, 46 cu. in. reservoir, reversible locking with back pressure, 7/16-20 ports, Vertical mount, 300 psi ports. Again, based off the tech info performance chart, I find the current draw plot versus pressure comes out to be approx 13 Amps. I assume that is steady state versus start up. If the B&C 15A rated switch can tolerate the amps but with a shorter life cycle that might be OK. The switch is not going to see 10,000 cycles in my lifeftime! A diode in-line may help as well? Thanks for your interest, looking forward to seeing what I can learn!! Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480370#480370 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 24, 2018
The original poster has reported on VansAirforce that a new PC680 battery cured the fuel pump fuse blowing problem. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480373#480373 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 24, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Low Battery Voltage Blows Fuel Pump Fuse?
At 06:36 AM 5/24/2018, you wrote: > >The original poster has reported on VansAirforce that a new PC680 >battery cured the fuel pump fuse blowing problem. > >-------- Nothing like a repeatable experiment to add foundation to a theory. It seems that these pumps suffer anomalous behaviors during a brown-out condition. I.e. the the duration of the on-pulse to the solenoid winding exceeds normal expectations in duty-cycle limited coil current. The reason for brownout can be any combination of things including soggy battery, ship's wiring and/or architecture and excessive starter current. One easy fix would be to upsize the fuse. Recall that 20A won't burn a 22AWG wire . . . so increasing the pump fuse to 10A might just well be a reasonable work-around. Obviously, if the battery is getting soggy (do a load test) then replacing the battery is in order for a host of reasons. Also, moving the distribution feeder for the pump to the battery bus would bypass other voltage drops in ship's wiring and be in agreement with the philosophy of running all eletro-whizzies for electrically dependent engines from the battery bus. I've got one of those pumps around here somewhere left over from some energy studies about 20 years ago . . . haven't got time for a diligent hunt right now but if it turns up, I'll go to the bench to see if I can duplicate the behavior here. In the mean time, if anyone on the List can conduct the same experiment, it would be good data to gather. Speaking of bench supplies: There are some pretty attractive offers out there https://goo.gl/SD52Po https://goo.gl/vknsmw . . . at prices like these, everyone should have one. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Noisy Alternator?
From: Paul Millner <millner(at)me.com>
Date: May 24, 2018
After a couple of weeks of airplane downtime (we went to a birthday party in England via commercial transportation), my StrikeFinder lights up all the time now. Troubleshooting demonstrates that shutting down the alternator stops the apparent sparks. The problem persists after five hours of flying now. Is it most likely that my Ford alternator's brushes didn't like the hiatus, or coincidentally developed a problem? I've got a solid state regulator, PlanePower, so I don't envision it's causing the sparking. http://www.secure4host.net/upload/files/AlternatorStrikeFinder.jpg Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel
Hangar??? > > >My steel hangar is about 50 feet away and there is cement and >asphalt over the ground between the house and the hangar so to dig >down and install a CAT 5 cable run out to the hangar is not a fun option. > >Are there any WIFI extender options available to get WIFI out to the hangar? I presume you have AC power in the hangar. I'm also hoping that the feeder comes off a breaker in your house. If so, you might consider a product like this: https://goo.gl/srUq55 Asoka is not the only supplier of such devices. These are power line connected cat5 transceivers. Put one in the house with a jumper to your router and the second in the hangar. I've been using these things around here for several years . . . saved me a lot of time/effort stringing wire. I've got a couple of surplus devices I could send you to experiment with. But if your hangar doesn't get ac power from the house distribution panel . . . all bets are off. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel
Hangar???
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 25, 2018
On 5/25/2018 9:06 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> >> >> My steel hangar is about 50 feet away and there is cement and asphalt >> over the ground between the house and the hangar so to dig down and >> install a CAT 5 cable run out to the hangar is not a fun option. >> >> Are there any WIFI extender options available to get WIFI out to the >> hangar? > > I presume you have AC power in the hangar. I'm also > hoping that the feeder comes off a breaker in your > house. If so, you might consider a product like > this: > > https://goo.gl/srUq55 > > Asoka is not the only supplier of such devices. > These are power line connected cat5 transceivers. > Put one in the house with a jumper to your > router and the second in the hangar. > > I've been using these things around here > for several years . . . saved me a lot > of time/effort stringing wire. I've got > a couple of surplus devices I could > send you to experiment with. > > But if your hangar doesn't get ac power from > the house distribution panel . . . all bets > are off. > > > Bob . . . > 50 feet is nothing to today's routers, if you have windows facing each other. If you don't, and Bob's power line technique won't work for you, look at 'Ubiquiti nano station'. I haven't used them myself, but when I was looking for a solution to a similar problem, they were highly recommended by some 'linux geeks' who earn their living setting up and maintaining networks. You need a pair, which will cost around $100. Power & ethernet to the one on your house, and power/ethernet at the hangar. You can also do it with a generic router, a generic access point (most routers can be configured as access points), and another router in the hangar, but setup can be a pain. Charlie --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel
Hangar???
From: chris <csmale(at)bak.rr.com>
Date: May 25, 2018
Do a youtube search or internet search for diy wifi antennas. You might be suprised. csmale(at)bak.rr.com On 05/25/2018 07:06 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >> >> >> My steel hangar is about 50 feet away and there is cement and asphalt >> over the ground between the house and the hangar so to dig down and >> install a CAT 5 cable run out to the hangar is not a fun option. >> >> Are there any WIFI extender options available to get WIFI out to the >> hangar? > > I presume you have AC power in the hangar. I'm also > hoping that the feeder comes off a breaker in your > house. If so, you might consider a product like > this: > > https://goo.gl/srUq55 > > Asoka is not the only supplier of such devices. > These are power line connected cat5 transceivers. > Put one in the house with a jumper to your > router and the second in the hangar. > > I've been using these things around here > for several years . . . saved me a lot > of time/effort stringing wire. I've got > a couple of surplus devices I could > send you to experiment with. > > But if your hangar doesn't get ac power from > the house distribution panel . . . all bets > are off. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
> >Hi Bob. thanks for replying... the pump is a Parker /OilDyne 108 >series hydraulic power unit. Product code 108 AE S 32 C LB 1 V 03 03. >The product code breaks down to the following: > >A 108 power unit, 12 VDC Permanent Magnet, Standard Pump, .0321 >CIPR, 46 cu. in. reservoir, reversible locking with back pressure, >7/16-20 ports, Vertical mount, 300 psi ports. > >Again, based off the tech info performance chart, I find the current >draw plot versus pressure comes out to be approx 13 Amps. I assume >that is steady state versus start up. > >If the B&C 15A rated switch can tolerate the amps but with a shorter >life cycle that might be OK. The switch is not going to see 10,000 >cycles in my lifeftime! A diode in-line may help as well? Okay . . . Given that this is a permanent magnet motor - inrush current will be significant. As a general rule, motors don't play well downstream of conventional fuses. Also, while the B&C S700 series switches may well demonstrate a 'satisfactory' service life . . . this application is pushing the envelope. If it were my airplane, I'd use the S700 switch to control a relay . . . Emacs! and protect the motor drive path with a 30 AMP current limiter . . . Emacs! on a DIY holder wired like so . . . Emacs! If you like, I've got all these parts in the junk box . . . yours for the price of a mailing address. Otherwise, yeah . . . I think I'd seek out a bit more robust toggle switch. But keep in mind that published switch ratings are generally the 'resistive' load value . . . those need to be de-rated at least by half if not 2/3 for motor loads. So a 30A rated switch would be likely to provide decent longevity. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: May 25, 2018
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar??? Bob, Thanks, I=99m going to give it a try to extend my network from the house to the shop out back. I=99d like to extend it to my hangar but it=99s 15 miles away and, for sure, not on my breaker box. But if I can get my network out to my shop, I=99ll be a happy camper. Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (100 hrs). Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules Prop. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger(at)mac.com On May 25, 2018, at 9:06 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > My steel hangar is about 50 feet away and there is cement and asphalt over the ground between the house and the hangar so to dig down and install a CAT 5 cable run out to the hangar is not a fun option. > > Are there any WIFI extender options available to get WIFI out to the hangar? I presume you have AC power in the hangar. I'm also hoping that the feeder comes off a breaker in your house. If so, you might consider a product like this: https://goo.gl/srUq55 Asoka is not the only supplier of such devices. These are power line connected cat5 transceivers. Put one in the house with a jumper to your router and the second in the hangar. I've been using these things around here for several years . . . saved me a lot of time/effort stringing wire. I've got a couple of surplus devices I could send you to experiment with. But if your hangar doesn't get ac power from the house distribution panel . . . all bets are off. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 25, 2018
Subject: Re: Noisy Alternator?
I had 2 stator leads broken on a Plane Power alternator that made my GTN 650 comm trip off on it=99s VPX circuit. Hard to believe that happened a s the aircraft sat, but it does sound like electrical =9Cnoise=9D . Rick Vans 40956 C-GDMH Sent from my iPad > On May 25, 2018, at 1:12 AM, Paul Millner wrote: > > After a couple of weeks of airplane downtime (we went to a birthday party i n England via commercial transportation), my StrikeFinder lights up all the t ime now. Troubleshooting demonstrates that shutting down the alternator stop s the apparent sparks. The problem persists after five hours of flying now. > > Is it most likely that my Ford alternator's brushes didn't like the hiatus , or coincidentally developed a problem? I've got a solid state regulator, P lanePower, so I don't envision it's causing the sparking. > > http://www.secure4host.net/upload/files/AlternatorStrikeFinder.jpg > > Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 25, 2018
[quote="nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect"] > > > > If it were my airplane, I'd use the S700 switch to > control a relay . . . > > [img]cid:.0[/img] > > and protect the motor drive path with a 30 > AMP current limiter . . . > > [img]cid:.1[/img] > > on a DIY holder wired like so . . . > > [img]cid:.2[/img] > > > If you like, I've got all these parts in the > junk box . . . yours for the price of a mailing > address. > > Otherwise, yeah . . . I think I'd seek out > a bit more robust toggle switch. But keep in mind > that published switch ratings are generally the > 'resistive' load value . . . those need to be de-rated > at least by half if not 2/3 for motor loads. So a > 30A rated switch would be likely to provide decent > longevity. > > > > Bob . . . Thanks for the expert insight Bob. I was concerned about the inrush associated with the motor. As for your offer of helping to clean out your junk box - count me in! Any particular email address to send you my mailing info? Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and taking the time to do so...this list is an incredible resource!! Cheers :D Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480405#480405 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
> >Thanks for the expert insight Bob. I was concerned about the inrush >associated with the motor. As for your offer of helping to clean >out your junk box - count me in! Any particular email address to >send you my mailing info? Thanks again for sharing your thoughts >and taking the time to do so...this list is an incredible >resource!! Cheers :D Go to my website and enter an 'order' but just don't select any merchandise. That will get your address enshrined for all eternity (or until Matt's servers go dark). Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar??? At 05:05 PM 5/25/2018, you wrote: >Bob, > >Thanks, I=99m going to give it a try to extend >my network from the house to the shop out >back. I=99d like to extend it to my hangar but >it=99s 15 miles away and, for sure, not on my >breaker box. But if I can get my network out to >my shop, I=99ll be a happy camper. Ohhh . . . 15 Miles? I was thinking 50 feet. You CAN extend your wifi system to to distances like that but you'll have to put up very directional gain antennas possibly on short towers. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: For want of a nail . . .
Spent too many hours and way too many dollars chasing gremlins from an antenna system only to discover that one of my SWR test coaxes had an INTERMITENT short. Made for some very confusing readings and misguided actions. Only accidently noticed that my anomalous readings manifested when coax behind the connector was subject to the right side-pressure. Swapped out the cable and the antenna refurbishment task moved forward after replacement of stuff that didn't need replacing. Tore down the connector and found a couple of 'whiskers' hanging out of the center pin crimp. Emacs! Just long enough to come within a few micro-inches of shorting the coax . . . putting the right force vector on the coax would close the gap. This was a commercially assembled test jumper that has been hanging on my cable rack for at least 15 years . . . just goes to show ya . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > > > > > Thanks for the expert insight Bob. I was concerned about the inrush associated with the motor. As for your offer of helping to clean out your junk box - count me in! Any particular email address to send you my mailing info? Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and taking the time to do so...this list is an incredible resource!! Cheers :D > > Go to my website and enter an 'order' but > just don't select any merchandise. That will > get your address enshrined for all eternity > (or until Matt's servers go dark). > > > > Bob . . . Done! Thanks again Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480415#480415 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar??? Bob, Sorry to mess you up. I=99m not the one with the hangar 50 feet away. I have a shop out back about 30 feet away. Bob Sent from my iPad > On May 26, 2018, at 10:40, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelect ric.com> wrote: > > At 05:05 PM 5/25/2018, you wrote: >> Bob, >> >> Thanks, I=99m going to give it a try to extend my network from the h ouse to the shop out back. I=99d like to extend it to my hangar but i t=99s 15 miles away and, for sure, not on my breaker box. But if I ca n get my network out to my shop, I=99ll be a happy camper. > > Ohhh . . . 15 Miles? I was thinking 50 feet. > > You CAN extend your wifi system to to distances > like that but you'll have to put up very directional > gain antennas possibly on short towers. > > > Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar???
Date: May 26, 2018
I am the guy who has the hangar 50 feet away from the house and my Duraspeed DSL modem/WIFI router would not reach the hangar. I just today received and installed these Netgear Powerline 1010 internet extenders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929V7ZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpa ge?ie=UTF8 &psc=1 NOTE: the come in a =9Cwired=9D and =9Cwireless=9D options and make sure you select the wireless if you want to have WIFI in the remote location. The instructions are HORRIBLE and the person who wrote the instructions should be required to setup a system based on using their instructions and then they will realize how stupid they actually are. So here was the scenario: I have a DSL modem/ WIFI router (in one convenient plastic case) and it has a black box power cord that plugs into the wall making heat and using electricity. If my house was small that would be the singular solution however my house is large...and...it also has the steel outbuilding (hangar/workshop) 50 feet away. The outbuilding is on the same power supply (downstream of the meter) as the house. So I thought "great"...buy one BASE unit (plug looking box that does not have a WIFI antenna) and connect that to my existing router using the CAT 5 cable and then that box will digitize the internet signal and then use the house copper wires as the wired connection to transmit the internet signal to the far end of the house. Then I will plug in the "WIFI ACCESS POINT" (plug looking box with the antenna) to grab the internet signal from the house coper wires and then transmit WIFI to that part of the house. I would also use an additional WIFI ACCESS POINT and plug that into a socket in the master bedroom, and then use a third WIFI access point out in the shop. So I need one BASE unit and three WIFI ACCESS POINTS check HOWEVERNetgear only sells these things in bundles (one BASE unit and one WIFI EXTENDER) and they do NOT sell the WIFI EXTENDERS separately!!! So I am stuck having to buy THREE bundles and toss out the two unneeded BASE units (or buy two bundles PLUS a separate WIFI router then that router will have cables and wasted electricity. Good thing these things come in bundles because one BASE unit did not work so I tossed it out and grabbed another unused one (was already in the garbage can because I thought I did not need it) and connected it up and synced the units and it worked. I used Speedtest to conduct two download tests of my Duraspeed WIFI router to set a benchmark and then with each of the Netgear WIFI units up and running and located in the exact same room as the Duraspeed and at the same distance I ran two speed tests of each Netgear WIFI unit. Then I took the Netgear WIFI units out to the outbuilding and conducted two tests of each unit and to ensure reliable comparison I made sure my laptop was the same distance away from each unit when conducting the test and I also used the exact same wall outlet for each unit. Ping Download Upload Duraspeed DSL Modem/WIFI 26 11.68 1.24 80 12.00 1.49 Netgear 18 In House 31 11.96 1.52 38 12.09 1.50 Netgear 18 In Outbuilding 33 12.09 1.50 131 12.26 1.50 Netgear 68 In House 21 11.79 1.47 87 3.14 1.51 Netgear 68 In Outbuilding 32 8.31 1.50 Second test stalled Third test stalled 27 12.48 1.50 Wellit seems to be working nowI will report back if there are any more issues .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Borger Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 9:01 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? Bob, Sorry to mess you up. I=99m not the one with the hangar 50 feet away. I have a shop out back about 30 feet away. Bob Sent from my iPad On May 26, 2018, at 10:40, Robert L. Nuckolls, III > wrote: At 05:05 PM 5/25/2018, you wrote: Bob, Thanks, I=99m going to give it a try to extend my network from the house to the shop out back. I=99d like to extend it to my hangar but it=99s 15 miles away and, for sure, not on my breaker box. But if I can get my network out to my shop, I=99ll be a happy camper. Ohhh . . . 15 Miles? I was thinking 50 feet. You CAN extend your wifi system to to distances like that but you'll have to put up very directional gain antennas possibly on short towers. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
Subject: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch off
the alternator? I started my reformed electrical system today. The system is an exact Z16 with no mods. No exciting sparks or smoke and everything worked. However with the engine running I switched off the ALT and the 5A CB in the OVP circuit immediately tripped. I reset and turned the ALT back on and everything operated normally. Is this supposed to happen? thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator? Is the diode installed correctly across the alternator disconnect relay coil? Any chance you got the progressive master/alternator switch wired so the alt comes on line 1st, and the system comes up second? On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:25 PM, William Daniell < wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote: > I started my reformed electrical system today. The system is an exact Z16 > with no mods. No exciting sparks or smoke and everything worked. > > However with the engine running I switched off the ALT and the 5A CB in > the OVP circuit immediately tripped. > > I reset and turned the ALT back on and everything operated normally. > > Is this supposed to happen? > > thanks > > Will > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
Bob, After pondering the wiring diagram you attached, I am also thinking that for my particular application I would need to use a DPDT type relay, along with a similar switch (S700-2-1) am I on the right track? The pump motor will operate to lower or retract the gear via hydraulic actuators, and pump direction is dependent on polarity, hence the need for the DPDT items. Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480422#480422 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 26, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
At 03:03 PM 5/26/2018, you wrote: > >Bob, > >After pondering the wiring diagram you attached, >I am also thinking that for my particular >application I would need to use a DPDT type >relay, along with a similar switch (S700-2-1) >am I on the right track? The pump motor will >operate to lower or retract the gear via >hydraulic actuators, and pump direction is >dependent on polarity, hence the need for the DPDT items. > >Dave Aha! A bi-directional electro-hydraulic system. Okay, you need TWO relays. Your wiring looks like this https://goo.gl/f6zECm . . . except your driving a hydraulic pump as opposed to a flap motor . . . also, you probably want to order an S700-1-4 (on)-off-(on) switch from B&C. Spring loaded to the center OFF position. I'll modify your care-package accordingly. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator? =8BSo I take it that it's not supposed to trip? I have separate switches for the battery and alternator and they do what they are supposed to. I don't have a diode installed. Is this critical? ALT and the BATT are connected to the starter contactor as per Z16 (well actually Z16v shows the buss connected to the battery contractor but it looks electrically equivalent from the diagram) So...everything is normal. I can start the engine switch on the loads - I see the ammeter reacting to the loads, the alternator is charging the battery and running all the loads. =8B the System is at 12.8V. I can switch the battery off and all remains the same. But when I switch the ALT off the OVP trips. The amps go negative while the ALT is off. I can immediately reset the 5amp CB and switch on the ALT and everything is goes back to normal. Could the OVP be reacting to a sudden Volt surge caused by the battery taking up the loads? Will On Sat, May 26, 2018, 15:00 Charlie England wrote: > Is the diode installed correctly across the alternator disconnect relay > coil? > > Any chance you got the progressive master/alternator switch wired so the > alt comes on line 1st, and the system comes up second? > > On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:25 PM, William Daniell < > wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote: > >> I started my reformed electrical system today. The system is an exact >> Z16 with no mods. No exciting sparks or smoke and everything worked. >> >> However with the engine running I switched off the ALT and the 5A CB in >> the OVP circuit immediately tripped. >> >> I reset and turned the ALT back on and everything operated normally. >> >> Is this supposed to happen? >> >> thanks >> >> Will >> >> William Daniell >> LONGPORT >> +57 310 295 0744 >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alt
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
No, it should not happen. If the diode that is supposed to be across the alternator relay coil is missing, there would be a high voltage spike when the switch is opened, although it would have reverse polarity. I do not know if reverse polarity would trip the over-voltage protection module or not. The diode could be defective (open circuit) The banded end of an arc suppression diode should connect to positive. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480428#480428 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the al
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
Install that missing diode. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480429#480429 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator?
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
On 5/26/2018 6:06 PM, William Daniell wrote: > So I take it that it's not supposed to trip? > > I have separate switches for the battery and alternator and they do > what they are supposed to. I don't have a diode installed. Is this > critical? > > ALT and the BATT are connected to the starter contactor as per Z16 > (well actually Z16v shows the buss connected to the battery contractor > but it looks electrically equivalent from the diagram) > > So...everything is normal. I can start the engine switch on the loads > - I see the ammeter reacting to the loads, the alternator is charging > the battery and running all the loads. the System is at 12.8V. > > I can switch the battery off and all remains the same. > > But when I switch the ALT off the OVP trips. The amps go negative > while the ALT is off. I can immediately reset the 5amp CB and switch > on the ALT and everything is goes back to normal. > > Could the OVP be reacting to a sudden Volt surge caused by the battery > taking up the loads? > > Will > > > On Sat, May 26, 2018, 15:00 Charlie England > wrote: > > Is the diode installed correctly across the alternator disconnect > relay coil? > > Any chance you got the progressive master/alternator switch wired > so the alt comes on line 1st, and the system comes up second? > > On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:25 PM, William Daniell > > > wrote: > > I started my reformed electrical system today. The system is > an exact Z16 with no mods. No exciting sparks or smoke and > everything worked. > > However with the engine running I switched off the ALT and the > 5A CB in the OVP circuit immediately tripped. > > I reset and turned the ALT back on and everything operated > normally. > > Is this supposed to happen? > > thanks > > Will > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 > > So, it's *not* wired exactly like Z-16? ;-) Let's do some circuit analysis. Follow the wiring diagram: bus>fuselink>CB>switch contacts<[OV module, relay coil, and diode (missing in your plane), all three in parallel to ground]. So if you turn off the alternator section of the switch, the only thing connected to the OV module is the relay coil. (Remember, you're missing the diode.) So, two issues. First, ask yourself where the excess voltage could be coming from, that the OV module is seeing. Next, ask yourself how the OV module can trip the CB, since the switch contacts connecting the CB to the OV module are open, breaking the current path from the bus, through the CB to OV module. I suspect you have multiple wiring issues, one of which is the missing diode. Charlie --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 26, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator? Joe... Charlie thanks. Ill try that. And umm no not exactly z16....:-( William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Sat, May 26, 2018, 18:55 Charlie England wrote: > On 5/26/2018 6:06 PM, William Daniell wrote: > > =8BSo I take it that it's not supposed to trip? > > I have separate switches for the battery and alternator and they do what > they are supposed to. I don't have a diode installed. Is this critical ? > > ALT and the BATT are connected to the starter contactor as per Z16 (well > actually Z16v shows the buss connected to the battery contractor but it > looks electrically equivalent from the diagram) > > So...everything is normal. I can start the engine switch on the loads - I > see the ammeter reacting to the loads, the alternator is charging the > battery and running all the loads. =8B the System is at 12.8V. > > I can switch the battery off and all remains the same. > > But when I switch the ALT off the OVP trips. The amps go negative while > the ALT is off. I can immediately reset the 5amp CB and switch on the AL T > and everything is goes back to normal. > > Could the OVP be reacting to a sudden Volt surge caused by the battery > taking up the loads? > > Will > > > On Sat, May 26, 2018, 15:00 Charlie England wrote: > >> Is the diode installed correctly across the alternator disconnect relay >> coil? >> >> Any chance you got the progressive master/alternator switch wired so the >> alt comes on line 1st, and the system comes up second? >> >> On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:25 PM, William Daniell < >> wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> I started my reformed electrical system today. The system is an exact >>> Z16 with no mods. No exciting sparks or smoke and everything worked. >>> >>> However with the engine running I switched off the ALT and the 5A CB in >>> the OVP circuit immediately tripped. >>> >>> I reset and turned the ALT back on and everything operated normally. >>> >>> Is this supposed to happen? >>> >>> thanks >>> >>> Will >>> >>> William Daniell >>> LONGPORT >>> +57 310 295 0744 >>> >> >> So, it's *not* wired exactly like Z-16? ;-) > > Let's do some circuit analysis. > > Follow the wiring diagram: bus>fuselink>CB>switch contacts<[OV module, > relay coil, and diode (missing in your plane), all three in parallel to > ground]. > > So if you turn off the alternator section of the switch, the only thing > connected to the OV module is the relay coil. (Remember, you're missing t he > diode.) So, two issues. First, ask yourself where the excess voltage coul d > be coming from, that the OV module is seeing. Next, ask yourself how the OV > module can trip the CB, since the switch contacts connecting the CB to th e > OV module are open, breaking the current path from the bus, through the C B > to OV module. > > I suspect you have multiple wiring issues, one of which is the missing > diode. > > Charlie > > > Virus-free . > www.avast.com > > <#m_8914933666409735789_m_-130479224096301792_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2 AA1F9FDF2> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator? At 06:06 PM 5/26/2018, you wrote: >=8BSo I take it that it's not supposed to trip? > >I have separate switches for the battery and >alternator and they do what they are supposed >to.=C2 =C2 I don't have a diode installed.=C2 Is this critical? So Z16 has been modified . . . >ALT and the BATT are connected to the starter >contactor as per Z16 (well actually Z16v shows >the buss connected to the battery contractor but >it looks electrically equivalent from the diagram) > >So...everything is normal.=C2 I can start the >engine switch on the loads - I see the ammeter >reacting to the loads, the alternator is >charging the battery and running all the loads. =8B=C2 =C2 the System is at 12.8V. > >I can switch the battery off and all remains the same. > >But when I switch the ALT off the OVP >trips.=C2 The amps go negative while the ALT is >off.=C2 I can immediately reset the 5amp CB and >switch on the ALT and everything is goes back to normal. > >Could the OVP be reacting to a sudden Volt surge >caused by the battery taking up the loads? Wire per Z16 with 700-2-10, progressive transfer switch . . . battery should not be OFF with alternator ON . . . the wiring shown in Z16 mirrors the legacy switching protocols adopted for TC aircraft about 50 years ago. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: For want of a nail . . .
How long is a Short? On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 11:49 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > Spent too many hours and way too many dollars > chasing gremlins from an antenna system only > to discover that one of my SWR test coaxes > had an INTERMITENT short. Made for some very > confusing readings and misguided actions. > > Only accidently noticed that my anomalous readings > manifested when coax behind the connector was > subject to the right side-pressure. Swapped > out the cable and the antenna refurbishment > task moved forward after replacement of stuff > that didn't need replacing. > > Tore down the connector and found a couple > of 'whiskers' hanging out of the center > pin crimp. > > [image: Emacs!] > > Just long enough to come within a few micro-inches > of shorting the coax . . . putting the right > force vector on the coax would close the gap. > > This was a commercially assembled test jumper > that has been hanging on my cable rack for > at least 15 years . . . just goes to show ya . . . > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator? Bob Thanks for taking the time. Wilco. (admonishment accepted) On Sun, May 27, 2018, 00:59 Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 06:06 PM 5/26/2018, you wrote: > > =C3=A2=82=AC=B9So I take it that it's not supposed to trip? > > I have separate switches for the battery and alternator and they do what > they are supposed to.=C3=82 =C3=82 I don't have a diode installed.=C3=82 Is this > critical? > > > So Z16 has been modified . . . > > > ALT and the BATT are connected to the starter contactor as per Z16 (well > actually Z16v shows the buss connected to the battery contractor but it > looks electrically equivalent from the diagram) > > So...everything is normal.=C3=82 I can start the engine switch on the lo ads - > I see the ammeter reacting to the loads, the alternator is charging the > battery and running all the loads. =C3=A2=82=AC=B9=C3=82 =C3=82 the System is at 12.8V. > > I can switch the battery off and all remains the same. > > But when I switch the ALT off the OVP trips.=C3=82 The amps go negative while > the ALT is off.=C3=82 I can immediately reset the 5amp CB and switch on the ALT > and everything is goes back to normal. > > Could the OVP be reacting to a sudden Volt surge caused by the battery > taking up the loads? > > > Wire per Z16 with 700-2-10, progressive transfer > switch . . . battery should not be OFF > with alternator ON . . . the wiring shown > in Z16 mirrors the legacy switching protocols > adopted for TC aircraft about 50 years ago. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator? At 07:03 AM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >Bob >Thanks for taking the time.=C2 Wilco. (admonishment accepted) No problem my friend . . . it's what we all do here . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > At 03:03 PM 5/26/2018, you wrote: > > > > > Bob, > > > > After pondering the wiring diagram you attached, I am also thinking that for my particular application I would need to use a DPDT type relay, along with a similar switch (S700-2-1) am I on the right track? The pump motor will operate to lower or retract the gear via hydraulic actuators, and pump direction is dependent on polarity, hence the need for the DPDT items. > > > > Dave > > Aha! A bi-directional electro-hydraulic system. > Okay, you need TWO relays. Your wiring looks > like this > > https://goo.gl/f6zECm > > . . . except your driving a hydraulic pump as > opposed to a flap motor . . . also, you probably > want to order an S700-1-4 (on)-off-(on) switch > from B&C. Spring loaded to the center OFF position. > > I'll modify your care-package accordingly. > > > Bob . . . Thanks so very much Bob. Appreciate the experienced insight, along with your generosity and willingness to endure us "newbs" and teachable moments! Cheers! Dave (Switch is on order...) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480446#480446 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the alternator? Just fitted the diode...guess what....no ovp trip Thanks joe charlie and bob On Sun, May 27, 2018, 07:31 Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 07:03 AM 5/27/2018, you wrote: > > Bob > Thanks for taking the time.=C3=82 Wilco. (admonishment accepted) > > > No problem my friend . . . it's what we all do > here . . . > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the al
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the opening contacts. Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480450#480450 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: > >Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the >circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can >think of is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping >across the opening contacts. Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the thread . . . Emacs! > >Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired >like Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other >side of the switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. >Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having a similar problem with the avionics master relay in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the relay coil and order was restored in the universe. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Joe & Bob: I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what you just posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. I'm sure there are different names for the way it is being used, the name I know it by is: ANTI-BOUNCE DIODE. Gaggle - If you look at the diode it is put in the REVERSE Polarity Direction of the applied voltage. Without the diode - When the power to the relay is removed, the collapsing field of the relay produced an induced voltage in the opposite direction as the energizing voltage. This voltage caused the relay contacts to BOUNCE and not open the contacts as quickly or as definitively. This of course caused excessive arcing of the contacts, shortening their life and even welding the contacts closed and/or carbonizing the contacts. So, if the OV circuit is sensitive enough and fast enough it could react to the induced spike. Barry On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 5:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: > > > Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the > circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of > is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the > opening contacts. > > > Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the > thread . . . > > [image: Emacs!] > > > Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like > Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the > switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. > Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. > > > I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes > on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the > crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having > a similar problem with the avionics master relay > in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the > relay coil and order was restored in the universe. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Barry, I think that is at odds with the explanation offered by Bob, et al. If I understand them correctly, the diode does not protect the contacts of the relay, but rather the contacts of the switch that controls the relay. Ken On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 1:48 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: > Joe & Bob: > > I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what you > just posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. > I'm sure there are different names for the way it is being used, the name > I know it by is: ANTI-BOUNCE DIODE. > Gaggle - If you look at the diode it is put in the REVERSE Polarity > Direction of the applied voltage. > Without the diode - When the power to the relay is removed, the collapsing > field of the relay produced an induced voltage in the opposite direction as > the energizing voltage. This voltage caused the relay contacts to BOUNCE > and not open the contacts as quickly or as definitively. This of course > caused excessive arcing of the contacts, shortening their life and even > welding the contacts closed and/or carbonizing the contacts. > > So, if the OV circuit is sensitive enough and fast enough it could react > to the induced spike. > > Barry > > On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 5:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > >> At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >> >> >> Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the >> circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of >> is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the >> opening contacts. >> >> >> Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the >> thread . . . >> >> [image: Emacs!] >> >> >> Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like >> Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the >> switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. >> Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. >> >> >> I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes >> on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the >> crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having >> a similar problem with the avionics master relay >> in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the >> relay coil and order was restored in the universe. >> >> >> Bob . . . >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al At 05:14 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >Barry, > >I think that is at odds with the explanation offered by Bob, et al. >If I understand them correctly, the diode does not protect the >contacts of the relay, but rather the contacts of the switch that >controls the relay. Correct. All Relays, contactors, solenoids, et. al. will present a high voltage event across the windings when the coil excitation current is removed. Here's a couple of articles on the topic. https://goo.gl/WUS1Ya https://goo.gl/6sj8um Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al At 04:48 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >Joe & Bob: > >I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what >you just posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. Yes. I was a tech writer at Cessna in the 60s when a fancy new gizmo called a silicon junction diode started finding its way onto the battery and starter contactors. You can get all the z-figures at https://goo.gl/kovZJX where you will find a consistent application of the rectifier diode for the purpose of taming coil collapse transients. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Ken & Bob: If that was the case... 1 - Then why place the diode on the relay and not on the switch? After all, if it's an induced voltage the effects would decrease over the running length of a wire, especially a straight wire. 2 - In Bob's drawing the Switch is forward of the relay and controls the Positive Voltage to the relay. YET! Not all circuits with the same Diode and Relay switch the Positive Voltage. Some put the switch on the Ground Leg of the relay. 3 - When was this circuit and diode instillation designed? I was taught this expiation way back in 1969. I have a feeling the reasoning of the circuit was lost over decades of time. Yet, the good intentions of the circuit remain. You always have to remember this has always been called Electronics THEORY! In the long run, you can't argue with success. Barry On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 6:14 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > Barry, > > I think that is at odds with the explanation offered by Bob, et al. If I > understand them correctly, the diode does not protect the contacts of the > relay, but rather the contacts of the switch that controls the relay. > > Ken > > > On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 1:48 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: > >> Joe & Bob: >> >> I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what you >> just posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. >> I'm sure there are different names for the way it is being used, the name >> I know it by is: ANTI-BOUNCE DIODE. >> Gaggle - If you look at the diode it is put in the REVERSE Polarity >> Direction of the applied voltage. >> Without the diode - When the power to the relay is removed, the >> collapsing field of the relay produced an induced voltage in the opposite >> direction as the energizing voltage. This voltage caused the relay contacts >> to BOUNCE and not open the contacts as quickly or as definitively. This of >> course caused excessive arcing of the contacts, shortening their life and >> even welding the contacts closed and/or carbonizing the contacts. >> >> So, if the OV circuit is sensitive enough and fast enough it could react >> to the induced spike. >> >> Barry >> >> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 5:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < >> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: >> >>> At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >>> >>> >>> Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the >>> circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of >>> is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the >>> opening contacts. >>> >>> >>> Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the >>> thread . . . >>> >>> [image: Emacs!] >>> >>> >>> Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like >>> Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the >>> switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. >>> Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. >>> >>> >>> I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes >>> on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the >>> crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having >>> a similar problem with the avionics master relay >>> in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the >>> relay coil and order was restored in the universe. >>> >>> >>> Bob . . . >>> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
If you want to protect the relay contacts from back EMF generated in an indu ctive LOAD put a diode across the LOAD or across the relay contacts. Either place will work. If you want to protect the switch from back EMF generated in the relay COIL p ut a relay across the COIL or across the switch. Either place will work. Sent from my iPhone > On May 27, 2018, at 7:57 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: > > Ken & Bob: > > If that was the case... > 1 - Then why place the diode on the relay and not on the switch? > After all, if it's an induced voltage the effects would decrease over the r unning length of a wire, especially a straight wire. > 2 - In Bob's drawing the Switch is forward of the relay and controls the P ositive Voltage to the relay. > YET! Not all circuits with the same Diode and Relay switch the Positive V oltage. Some put the switch on the Ground Leg of the relay. > 3 - When was this circuit and diode instillation designed? > I was taught this expiation way back in 1969. I have a feeling the reason ing of the circuit was lost over decades of time. Yet, the good intentions o f the circuit remain. You always have to remember this has always been call ed Electronics THEORY! > In the long run, you can't argue with success. > > Barry > > > >> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 6:14 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: >> Barry, >> >> I think that is at odds with the explanation offered by Bob, et al. If I u nderstand them correctly, the diode does not protect the contacts of the rel ay, but rather the contacts of the switch that controls the relay. >> >> Ken >> >> >>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 1:48 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: >>> Joe & Bob: >>> >>> I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what you j ust posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. >>> I'm sure there are different names for the way it is being used, the nam e I know it by is: ANTI-BOUNCE DIODE. >>> Gaggle - If you look at the diode it is put in the REVERSE Polarity Dire ction of the applied voltage. >>> Without the diode - When the power to the relay is removed, the collapsi ng field of the relay produced an induced voltage in the opposite direction a s the energizing voltage. This voltage caused the relay contacts to BOUNCE a nd not open the contacts as quickly or as definitively. This of course caus ed excessive arcing of the contacts, shortening their life and even welding t he contacts closed and/or carbonizing the contacts. >>> >>> So, if the OV circuit is sensitive enough and fast enough it could react to the induced spike. >>> >>> Barry >>> >>>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 5:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@ aeroelectric.com> wrote: >>>> At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: > >>>>> >>>>> Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the ci rcuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of is t hat it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the opening c ontacts. >>>> >>>> Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the >>>> thread . . . >>>> >>>> <243745d4.jpg> >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like Z -16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the sw itch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. >>>>> Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. >>>> >>>> I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes >>>> on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the >>>> crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having >>>> a similar problem with the avionics master relay >>>> in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the >>>> relay coil and order was restored in the universe. >>>> >>>> >>>> Bob . . . >>>> >>> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Joe Can you explain "the other side of the switch" please? The ov module tripped when I turned off the alt... The ovp is wired per z16. However due space the relay is wired as per z17 ie after the voltage regulator not before. Might this make a difference? Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Sun, May 27, 2018, 14:42 user9253 wrote: > > Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the > circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of > is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the > opening contacts. > Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like > Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the > switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. > Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480450#480450 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the al
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
An arc suppression diode needs to be connected in parallel with the inductor with the banded end of the diode connected to positive. The ideal physical location of the diode is as close to the coil as practical. However, the diode could be located at the switch that turns the coil on and off. Even so, the diode still needs to be connected in parallel with the coil. A diode will limit induced voltage to about 1 volt, which is the forward voltage drop of the diode. The main purpose of an arc suppression diode is to protect the controlling switch contacts from arcing. Below is a picture of a diode located at the switch. Notice that even though the diode is located remote from the contactor coil, it is still connected in parallel with the coil. The banded end of the diode connects to the positive side of the coil, and the other end of the diode is connected to the negative side of the coil (through ground). Connecting a diode across switch contacts does little good. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480463#480463 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/diode_arc_suppression_166.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I switch
off the al
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
I was referring to the left, or upstream, side of the switch. > Can you explain "the other side of the switch" please? It will not make a difference if the relay interrupts AC from the dynamo or DC from the rectifier/regulator. Looking at Z-17, there is no diode across the relay coil. When the alternator switch is opened, induced negative voltage will be applied to the red lead of the O.V. module. I think a diode should be connected across the relay coil. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480464#480464 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Alec: It is not directly protecting the contacts of the relay. The reverse EMF never touches the contacts of the relay. It is preventing the reverse EMF from allowing the contacts to bounce which causes the contacts to arc. Barry On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 8:31 PM, Alec Myers wrote: > If you want to protect the relay contacts from back EMF generated in an > inductive LOAD put a diode across the LOAD or across the relay contacts. > Either place will work. > > If you want to protect the switch from back EMF generated in the relay > COIL put a relay across the COIL or across the switch. Either place will > work. > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On May 27, 2018, at 7:57 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: > > Ken & Bob: > > If that was the case... > 1 - Then why place the diode on the relay and not on the switch? > After all, if it's an induced voltage the effects would decrease over the > running length of a wire, especially a straight wire. > 2 - In Bob's drawing the Switch is forward of the relay and controls the > Positive Voltage to the relay. > YET! Not all circuits with the same Diode and Relay switch the Positive > Voltage. Some put the switch on the Ground Leg of the relay. > 3 - When was this circuit and diode instillation designed? > I was taught this expiation way back in 1969. I have a feeling the > reasoning of the circuit was lost over decades of time. Yet, the good > intentions of the circuit remain. You always have to remember this has > always been called Electronics THEORY! > In the long run, you can't argue with success. > > Barry > > > On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 6:14 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: > >> Barry, >> >> I think that is at odds with the explanation offered by Bob, et al. If I >> understand them correctly, the diode does not protect the contacts of the >> relay, but rather the contacts of the switch that controls the relay. >> >> Ken >> >> >> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 1:48 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: >> >>> Joe & Bob: >>> >>> I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what you >>> just posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. >>> I'm sure there are different names for the way it is being used, the >>> name I know it by is: ANTI-BOUNCE DIODE. >>> Gaggle - If you look at the diode it is put in the REVERSE Polarity >>> Direction of the applied voltage. >>> Without the diode - When the power to the relay is removed, the >>> collapsing field of the relay produced an induced voltage in the opposite >>> direction as the energizing voltage. This voltage caused the relay contacts >>> to BOUNCE and not open the contacts as quickly or as definitively. This of >>> course caused excessive arcing of the contacts, shortening their life and >>> even welding the contacts closed and/or carbonizing the contacts. >>> >>> So, if the OV circuit is sensitive enough and fast enough it could react >>> to the induced spike. >>> >>> Barry >>> >>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 5:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < >>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: >>> >>>> At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the >>>> circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of >>>> is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the >>>> opening contacts. >>>> >>>> >>>> Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the >>>> thread . . . >>>> >>>> <243745d4.jpg> >>>> >>>> >>>> Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like >>>> Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the >>>> switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. >>>> Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. >>>> >>>> >>>> I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes >>>> on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the >>>> crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having >>>> a similar problem with the avionics master relay >>>> in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the >>>> relay coil and order was restored in the universe. >>>> >>>> >>>> Bob . . . >>>> >>> >>> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
I don't know what "it" you're referring to; I didn't have any specific circu it in mind. If you have an inductive load you can protect the relay contacts with a diod e if you want to. Sent from my iPhone > On May 27, 2018, at 9:49 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: > > Alec: > > It is not directly protecting the contacts of the relay. The reverse EMF n ever touches the contacts of the relay. It is preventing the reverse EMF fr om allowing the contacts to bounce which causes the contacts to arc. > > Barry > >> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 8:31 PM, Alec Myers wrote: >> If you want to protect the relay contacts from back EMF generated in an i nductive LOAD put a diode across the LOAD or across the relay contacts. Eit her place will work. >> >> If you want to protect the switch from back EMF generated in the relay CO IL put a relay across the COIL or across the switch. Either place will work. >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On May 27, 2018, at 7:57 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: >>> >>> Ken & Bob: >>> >>> If that was the case... >>> 1 - Then why place the diode on the relay and not on the switch? >>> After all, if it's an induced voltage the effects would decrease over th e running length of a wire, especially a straight wire. >>> 2 - In Bob's drawing the Switch is forward of the relay and controls the Positive Voltage to the relay. >>> YET! Not all circuits with the same Diode and Relay switch the Positive Voltage. Some put the switch on the Ground Leg of the relay. >>> 3 - When was this circuit and diode instillation designed? >>> I was taught this expiation way back in 1969. I have a feeling the reas oning of the circuit was lost over decades of time. Yet, the good intentions of the circuit remain. You always have to remember this has always been ca lled Electronics THEORY! >>> In the long run, you can't argue with success. >>> >>> Barry >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 6:14 PM, Ken Ryan wrote : >>>> Barry, >>>> >>>> I think that is at odds with the explanation offered by Bob, et al. If I understand them correctly, the diode does not protect the contacts of the r elay, but rather the contacts of the switch that controls the relay. >>>> >>>> Ken >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 1:48 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: >>>>> Joe & Bob: >>>>> >>>>> I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what yo u just posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. >>>>> I'm sure there are different names for the way it is being used, the n ame I know it by is: ANTI-BOUNCE DIODE. >>>>> Gaggle - If you look at the diode it is put in the REVERSE Polarity Di rection of the applied voltage. >>>>> Without the diode - When the power to the relay is removed, the collap sing field of the relay produced an induced voltage in the opposite directio n as the energizing voltage. This voltage caused the relay contacts to BOUNC E and not open the contacts as quickly or as definitively. This of course c aused excessive arcing of the contacts, shortening their life and even weldi ng the contacts closed and/or carbonizing the contacts. >>>>> >>>>> So, if the OV circuit is sensitive enough and fast enough it could rea ct to the induced spike. >>>>> >>>>> Barry >>>>> >>>>>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 5:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: >>>>>> At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: om> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the c ircuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of is t hat it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the opening c ontacts. >>>>>> >>>>>> Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the >>>>>> thread . . . >>>>>> >>>>>> <243745d4.jpg> >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired lik e Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. >>>>>>> Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. >>>>>> >>>>>> I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes >>>>>> on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the >>>>>> crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having >>>>>> a similar problem with the avionics master relay >>>>>> in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the >>>>>> relay coil and order was restored in the universe. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Bob . . . >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2018
From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: For want of a nail . . .
I hope that is not a "that's what she said" joke. On Sunday, May 27, 2018 7:08 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote: How long is a Short? On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 11:49 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aer oelectric.com> wrote: Spent too many hours and way too many dollars chasing gremlins from an antenna system only to discover that one of my SWR test coaxes had an INTERMITENT short. Made for some very confusing readings and misguided actions. Only accidently noticed that my anomalous readings manifested when coax behind the connector was subject to the right side-pressure. Swapped out the cable and the antenna refurbishment task moved forward after replacement of stuff that didn't need replacing. Tore down the connector and found a couple of 'whiskers' hanging out of the center pin crimp. Just long enough to come within a few micro-inches of shorting the coax . . . putting the right force vector on the coax would close the gap. 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From: <mike(at)vision499.com>
Subject: Analog Volt Meter
Date: May 27, 2018
Does anybody know where I can get a small analog volt meter about the same size as the UMA from aircraft spruce but at a better price? http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/inpages/uma_instr9.php?clickkey=1320 0 Thanks Mike --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 27, 2018
https://www=2Eebay=2Ecom/bhp/analog-panel-meter =81=A3Charlie=8B On May 27, 2018, 10:47 PM, at 10:47 PM, mike@vision499=2Ecom wrote: >Does anybody know where I can get a small analog volt meter about the >same siz e as the UMA from aircraft spruce but at a better price? > > >http://www =2Eaircraftspruce=2Eca/catalog/inpages/uma_instr9=2Ephp?clickkey=13200 > > > >Thanks > > >Mike > > >--- >This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software=2E >https://www=2Eavast=2E com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
Subject: Re: For want of a nail . . .
Not at all Ernest; Not that all "That's what see said," jokes are bad. It's an engineering joke: How long is a Short? As long as it takes the Technician to find it. Its like a 'Knock - Knock" joke. A knock - knock joke would not work without a door. It's like "One Hand Clapping". Barry On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 10:21 PM, Ernest Christley wrote: > I hope that is not a "that's what she said" joke. > > > On Sunday, May 27, 2018 7:08 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote: > > > How long is a Short? > > On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 11:49 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > > Spent too many hours and way too many dollars > chasing gremlins from an antenna system only > to discover that one of my SWR test coaxes > had an INTERMITENT short. Made for some very > confusing readings and misguided actions. > > Only accidently noticed that my anomalous readings > manifested when coax behind the connector was > subject to the right side-pressure. Swapped > out the cable and the antenna refurbishment > task moved forward after replacement of stuff > that didn't need replacing. > > Tore down the connector and found a couple > of 'whiskers' hanging out of the center > pin crimp. > > [image: Emacs!] > > Just long enough to come within a few micro-inches > of shorting the coax . . . putting the right > force vector on the coax would close the gap. > > This was a commercially assembled test jumper > that has been hanging on my cable rack for > at least 15 years . . . just goes to show ya . . . > > Bob . . . > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Joe, Bob and Gaggle: I'm perplexed! I stood back, shook my head (Really, Physically - It is what I do to restart the learning process). I TOTALLY agree with you on the diode protecting the switch. The location of the Diode is NOT where I would put it in the circuit IF it was ONLY for switch protection. As I said: Too far away from the switch and what if it is the Ground that was being switched? My statements come from training way back in 1969. I used that training and the Theory given to me from way back then and the outcome has given correct results over many years. I have always installed the diode to prevent 'Bounce Back' of the relay contacts - NEVER - Thinking of the switch. LQQKs like my reasoning could have been wrong, yet, I obtained good results. Another thing I said was History Changes. We once only taught Electron Theory, now we teach both electron and HOLE Theory. Why? Because it helps better explain things. Here is a link that takes the Physical Switch totally out of the circuit YET the diode still exists in the circuit. It's (Diode, Alec) purpose is to prevent Spikes. My take on this is: 1 - Removing the spike is a good thing. 2 - Does not matter Why - You - Think the diode is there, it is the function of the diode that makes the circuit work. 3 - Terminology - Constantly Changes. <-- I'm not happy with that!!! Sometimes there are just too many shades of gray. OK - So, take a look at this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXGtE3X2k7Y Barry On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 10:02 PM, Alec Myers wrote: > I don't know what "it" you're referring to; I didn't have any specific > circuit in mind. > > If you have an inductive load you can protect the relay contacts with a > diode if you want to. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On May 27, 2018, at 9:49 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: > > Alec: > > It is not directly protecting the contacts of the relay. The reverse EMF > never touches the contacts of the relay. It is preventing the reverse EMF > from allowing the contacts to bounce which causes the contacts to arc. > > Barry > > On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 8:31 PM, Alec Myers wrote: > >> If you want to protect the relay contacts from back EMF generated in an >> inductive LOAD put a diode across the LOAD or across the relay contacts. >> Either place will work. >> >> If you want to protect the switch from back EMF generated in the relay >> COIL put a relay across the COIL or across the switch. Either place will >> work. >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On May 27, 2018, at 7:57 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: >> >> Ken & Bob: >> >> If that was the case... >> 1 - Then why place the diode on the relay and not on the switch? >> After all, if it's an induced voltage the effects would decrease over the >> running length of a wire, especially a straight wire. >> 2 - In Bob's drawing the Switch is forward of the relay and controls the >> Positive Voltage to the relay. >> YET! Not all circuits with the same Diode and Relay switch the Positive >> Voltage. Some put the switch on the Ground Leg of the relay. >> 3 - When was this circuit and diode instillation designed? >> I was taught this expiation way back in 1969. I have a feeling the >> reasoning of the circuit was lost over decades of time. Yet, the good >> intentions of the circuit remain. You always have to remember this has >> always been called Electronics THEORY! >> In the long run, you can't argue with success. >> >> Barry >> >> >> >> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 6:14 PM, Ken Ryan wrote: >> >>> Barry, >>> >>> I think that is at odds with the explanation offered by Bob, et al. If I >>> understand them correctly, the diode does not protect the contacts of the >>> relay, but rather the contacts of the switch that controls the relay. >>> >>> Ken >>> >>> >>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 1:48 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote: >>> >>>> Joe & Bob: >>>> >>>> I was not able to link to the Z-16 schematic but if it is like what you >>>> just posted Bob, the diode trick has been around for many years. >>>> I'm sure there are different names for the way it is being used, the >>>> name I know it by is: ANTI-BOUNCE DIODE. >>>> Gaggle - If you look at the diode it is put in the REVERSE Polarity >>>> Direction of the applied voltage. >>>> Without the diode - When the power to the relay is removed, the >>>> collapsing field of the relay produced an induced voltage in the opposite >>>> direction as the energizing voltage. This voltage caused the relay contacts >>>> to BOUNCE and not open the contacts as quickly or as definitively. This of >>>> course caused excessive arcing of the contacts, shortening their life and >>>> even welding the contacts closed and/or carbonizing the contacts. >>>> >>>> So, if the OV circuit is sensitive enough and fast enough it could >>>> react to the induced spike. >>>> >>>> Barry >>>> >>>> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 5:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < >>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> At 02:37 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >>>>> >>>>> > >>>>> >>>>> Now all we have to do is figure out how the O.V. module tripped the >>>>> circuit breaker with the switch open. The only thing that I can think of >>>>> is that it happened during the time that an arc was jumping across the >>>>> opening contacts. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Oh . . . THAT diode. . . missed that part of the >>>>> thread . . . >>>>> >>>>> <243745d4.jpg> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Is that long enough to trip a breaker? Or maybe it is not wired like >>>>> Z-16. Instead maybe the O.V. module is connected to the other side of the >>>>> switch. The O.V. module will still function OK if it is. >>>>> Anyway, glad it is working for you Will. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I've seen this before . . . field collapse spikes >>>>> on a beefy relay have been known to irritate the >>>>> crowbar ovm. Had a Europa builder in Wichita having >>>>> a similar problem with the avionics master relay >>>>> in his EXP Bus system. Tacked a diode across the >>>>> relay coil and order was restored in the universe. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Bob . . . >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al At 08:49 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: >Alec: > >It is not directly protecting the contacts of >the relay.=C2 The reverse EMF never touches the >contacts of the relay.=C2 It is preventing the >reverse EMF from allowing the contacts to bounce >which causes the contacts to arc. This is a myth . . . the coil collapse suppression diode is demonstrably responsible for a DELAY in the first opening of the relay's contacts . . . but no significant effect on SPREADING VELOCITY of those contacts. All other effects equal, spreading velocity is a strong controlling factor for arcing at the contacts during the opening event. Contacts bounce only on closing . . . which is a strong factor along with inrush currents that control tendencies to weld contacts together. When we were exploring options for controlling the landing gear pump motor, a driving factor in relay/switch selection was the closing the circuit on a very low static resistance i.e. inrush probably on the order of 100 Amps. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Bob, curiously enough mine's a Europa too. Could it be something to do with composites? Another Symptom which might help the discussion. The CB tripped ONLY at the moment of switching off the ALT. It could be reset immediately after with no ill effects suggesting that it was something to do with the switching off itself that caused the CB to trip. By the way you all have completely lost me on the technical stuff - but I am reading with interest, Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 8:48 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 08:49 PM 5/27/2018, you wrote: > > Alec: > > It is not directly protecting the contacts of the relay.=C3=82 The rever se EMF > never touches the contacts of the relay.=C3=82 It is preventing the reve rse EMF > from allowing the contacts to bounce which causes the contacts to arc. > > > This is a myth . . . the coil collapse suppression > diode is demonstrably responsible for a DELAY in > the first opening of the relay's contacts . . . > but no significant effect on SPREADING VELOCITY > of those contacts. All other effects equal, > spreading velocity is a strong controlling factor > for arcing at the contacts during the opening > event. > > Contacts bounce only on closing . . . which > is a strong factor along with inrush currents > that control tendencies to weld contacts > together. When we were exploring options for > controlling the landing gear pump motor, a > driving factor in relay/switch selection was > the closing the circuit on a very low static > resistance i.e. inrush probably on the order > of 100 Amps. > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <mike(at)vision499.com>
Subject: Analog Volt Meter
Date: May 28, 2018
Thanks for the link, but all the meters I can find on e-bay are at least 2 inches and I was looking for something smaller Thanks Mike From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectr ic-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: May 27, 2018 9:30 PM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Analog Volt Meter https://www.ebay.com/bhp/analog-panel-meter Charlie On May 27, 2018, at 10:47 PM, mike(at)vision499.com wrote: Does anybody know where I can get a small analog volt meter about the same size as the UMA from aircraft spruce but at a better price? http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/inpages/uma_instr9.php?clickkey=1320 0 Thanks Mike Virus-free. www.avast.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "n1dw" <n1deltawhiskey(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Analog Volt Meter
Date: May 28, 2018
Google =98Westach voltmeter=99 From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of mike(at)vision499.com Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 8:41 PM Subject: AeroElectric-List: Analog Volt Meter Does anybody know where I can get a small analog volt meter about the same size as the UMA from aircraft spruce but at a better price? http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/inpages/uma_instr9.php?clickkey=13 200 Thanks Mike Virus-free. www.avast.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al >>If you want to protect the relay contacts from back EMF generated >>in an inductive LOAD put a diode across the LOAD or across the >>relay contacts. Either place will work. Relay and switch contacts are almost never fitted with prophylactics against wear-n-tear. When you read design life specs for the various products you virtually never see recommendations for adding external devices intended to extend service life of the contacts. The reason being that any 'arc snubbing' device must be tailored to the application . . . the relay/switch manufacturer cannot anticipate hou YOU will used the product . . . hence, they are what they are and any failure to meed design goals for service life generally involves a feature in the application that is out in left field . . . a once in a million encounter with the immutable laws of physics. Good case in point was the rash of relay failures we experienced in the B400 that took a couple years to track down . . . and the relay manufacturer's had no clue . . . hence not helpful. https://goo.gl/QcfSYo I've designed perhaps 4-5 products wherein it was useful to add arc suppression directly to contacts. The most recent being an OV relay addition to a specific airplane with a generator where the arc suppression was 'tuned' to generator field inductance. http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Relays/Relay_with_Arc_Supp But for the most part, relays as switches are selected to task with no adjuncts intended to enhance service life. Diodes and other solid state devices generally serve no useful purpose across the contacts of a switch. The Ceaans/FAA got caught with their pants down around their ankles on the Great ACS-Gerdes, OFF-L-R-Both-Start Keyswitch fiasco circa 1990. I captured the corrected documents here https://goo.gl/QV3gTF The first issue of these documents placed the diode across the starter control switch contacts in the ACS keyswitch assembly . . . only to discover that the diode had no benefit. The physics is described in the second page of https://goo.gl/WUS1Ya Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
Date: May 28, 2018
Mike, << small analog volt meter about the same size as the UMA from aircraft sp ruce but at a better price? >> If you can stand an industrial look instead of an aircraft look, Mouser Ele ctronics 529-17843 is a Simpson 1.5 inch square 0-15 volt meter for $96. 1 =2E15 and 2.5 inch meters are about the same price. Tom Kuffel --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
On 5/28/2018 12:11 PM, The Kuffels wrote: > Mike, > < aircraft spruce but at a better price? >> > If you can stand an industrial look instead of an aircraft look, > Mouser Electronics 529-17843 is a Simpson 1.5 inch square 0-15 volt > meter for $96. 1.15 and 2.5 inch meters are about the same price. > Tom Kuffel > And if you can give up the analog requirement (and gain a lot of accuracy), there are many digital options with under $20 price points. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
I bought a hall effect ammeter combined with a voltmeter from Amazon for USD24. It's digital. Its readings are the same as my Dynon which was a tad more expensive. Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 12:48 PM, Charlie England wrote: > On 5/28/2018 12:11 PM, The Kuffels wrote: > > Mike, > > << small analog volt meter about the same size as the UMA from aircraft > spruce but at a better price? >> > > If you can stand an industrial look instead of an aircraft look, Mouser > Electronics 529-17843 is a Simpson 1.5 inch square 0-15 volt meter for > $96. 1.15 and 2.5 inch meters are about the same price. > > Tom Kuffel > > And if you can give up the analog requirement (and gain a lot of > accuracy), there are many digital options with under $20 price points. > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-6004139934107443635_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Joe the OVP is on the downstream side of the switch that is to say on the Relay side of the swtich. Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 7:59 PM, user9253 wrote: > > An arc suppression diode needs to be connected in parallel with the > inductor with the banded end of the diode connected to positive. The ideal > physical location of the diode is as close to the coil as practical. > However, the diode could be located at the switch that turns the coil on > and off. Even so, the diode still needs to be connected in parallel with > the coil. A diode will limit induced voltage to about 1 volt, which is the > forward voltage drop of the diode. The main purpose of an arc suppression > diode is to protect the controlling switch contacts from arcing. Below is > a picture of a diode located at the switch. Notice that even though the > diode is located remote from the contactor coil, it is still connected in > parallel with the coil. The banded end of the diode connects to the > positive side of the coil, and the other end of the diode is connected to > the negative side of the coil (through ground). Connecting a diode across > switch contacts does little good. > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480463#480463 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/diode_arc_suppression_166.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al At 07:29 AM 5/28/2018, you wrote: >Joe, Bob and Gaggle: > >I'm perplexed! >I stood back, shook my head (Really, Physically >- It is what I do to restart the learning >process).=C2 I TOTALLY agree with you on the diode protecting the switch. That's ONE feature of the field collapse suppression diode. It may keep the EFIS display from 'glitching', the ov module from nuisance tripping, eliminate a 'click' in the headphones . . . and yes . . . extend the service life of a switch. >The location of the Diode is NOT where I would put it in >the circuit IF it was ONLY for switch protection. It's never is the only reason . . . > As I said: Too far away from the switch and what if > it is the Ground that was being switched? Neither of these conditions matter. . . I cannot speak to your training/experience. I can speak to my experience and demonstrations on the bench and in airplanes with observations made, measurements taken, deductions proposed and documents published with invitations for good skeptical/critical review. If you find fault with anything I've published or referenced . . . that's the place to start. Nobody is more interested in correcting faulty information and/or clarifying an explanation as I am. If you have an experiment you'd like to see conducted, give us a bill of materials, schematic, your hypothesis for outcome and instructions for conducting the experiment. I'll set it up on the bench and publish the results. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al At 08:24 AM 5/28/2018, you wrote: >Bob, > >curiously enough mine's a Europa too.=C2 Could it >be something to do with composites? no . . it would have happened in an RV too >Another Symptom which might help the >discussion.=C2 The CB tripped ONLY at the moment >of switching off the ALT.=C2 It could be reset >immediately after with no ill effects suggesting >that it was something to do with the switching >off itself that caused the CB to trip. Yup . . . that's how the transient event is created. Emacs! When the controlling switch opens, the magnetic field in the relay collapse very rapidly (~3 milliSeconds in the plot above). >By the way you all have completely lost me on >the technical stuff - but I am reading with interest, No problem . . . that's what the List is for. Advise and explain. The level of understanding achieved needs only to offer some level of confidence that nobody is going to blow smoke blown up your pant leg here . . . Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al This stuff is very cool. William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote: > At 08:24 AM 5/28/2018, you wrote: > > Bob, > > curiously enough mine's a Europa too.=C3=82 Could it be something to do with > composites? > > > no . . it would have happened in an RV too > > > Another Symptom which might help the discussion.=C3=82 The CB tripped ON LY at > the moment of switching off the ALT.=C3=82 It could be reset immediately after > with no ill effects suggesting that it was something to do with the > switching off itself that caused the CB to trip. > > > Yup . . . that's how the transient event is > created. > > [image: Emacs!] > > When the controlling switch opens, the magnetic field > in the relay collapse very rapidly (~3 milliSeconds > in the plot above). > > > By the way you all have completely lost me on the technical stuff - but I > am reading with interest, > > > No problem . . . that's what the List is for. Advise > and explain. The level of understanding achieved > needs only to offer some level of confidence that > nobody is going to blow smoke blown up your pant leg > here . . . > > > Bob . . . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 28, 2018
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al Bob: With the screen shot of the O scope... What signal did you use to trigger the scope (capture the screen shot)? The 'M'... Is that for Manual Mode? Where do you have the leads attached? Where are you measuring the ~3 ms from & to? What is your definition of: "Fire across contacts" and Fire goes out here"? Barry > > [image: Emacs!] > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2018
From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
Marlin Jones has a good selection: Panel Meters & Meter Shunts | MPJA.COM | | | | | | | | | | | Panel Meters & Meter Shunts | MPJA.COM | | | | On Sunday, May 27, 2018 11:44 PM, "mike(at)vision499.com" wrote: D oes anybody know where I can get a small analog volt meter about the same s ize as the UMA from aircraft spruce but at a better price?=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/inpages/uma_instr9.php?clickkey=132 00 =C2-Thanks =C2-Mike =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Is the OVP 5 A CB supposed to trip when I
switch off the al At 03:03 PM 5/28/2018, you wrote: >Bob: > >With the screen shot of the O scope...=C2 =C2 >What signal did you use to trigger the scope (capture the screen shot)? >The 'M'...=C2 Is that for Manual Mode? >Where do you have the leads attached? >Where are you measuring the ~3 ms from & to? >What is your definition of: "Fire across contacts" and Fire goes out here"? Referring to the article at: https://goo.gl/WUS1Ya The first figure is the performance baseline for the contactor . . . a Stancor/White-Rogers 70 series, 12v, 'whisky-barrel'. [] One terminal of the coil is grounded. The other terminal gets 12vdc applied through a switch. The scope Ch1 reads votlage across the coil. Trigger is ac coupled for a negative going excursion of the coil voltage (initiated by first opening of the controlling switch). Yes, "M" is for manual mode (single sweep with manual reset for next trigger). Using the 4th trace from the article we see that the first major event (the field collapse transient) begins at the trigger point (little black arrow at top) and is pretty much over 6 major horizontal divisions at 0.5mS per division. >Emacs! > The first figure of the article is the baseline coil collapse signature for that contactor. For this measurement, I needed a switch with a VERY fast contact spreading velocity. As the article states, this was achieved with a piece of 22awg wire strung between to c-clamps and tensioned with a bunch of rubber bands. The switch was 'opened' by simply cutting the wire. You will note that dv/dt (slope) for Emf during field-collapse is on the order of 1v/microSecond. The transient's amplitude exceeds 300 Volts. The last figure, repeated above, explores the collapse signature when coil current is controlled by an ordinary toggle switch. Here again we see a sharp, negative-going transient that begins with switch opening is 0.05v/microSecond or 1/20th that of the coil when controlled with a fast switch. The ONLY explanation for this difference is that as the switch contacts first opened, coil collapse begins and an arc forms in the gap. This prevents coil current from going to zero and produces a t=L/R retardation of collapse. ~1250 uS after switch opening, we see a transient that marks an increase in the slope of the curve . . . this has to be where the fire goes out and the DC current flow in the coil goes zero. The narrative accompanying the other two figures is, I believe, self explanatory. This particular study focuses on arcing at the controlling switch and does not address arcing at the contacts of the contactor as driven by contact spreading velocity. That's another article. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
From: "racerjerry" <gnking2(at)verizon.net>
Date: May 29, 2018
Mike, be careful what you wish for. From my experience, 0 to 15V voltmeters of ANY size are near useless for monitoring the aircraft battery voltage and the charging system in flight. A compressed scale type voltmeter like Westach 2A5, which provides a scale of 6 to 16 volts (or the UMA 9 to 17V), offer better information with ability to distinguish minor voltage fluctuations. With a standard full scale, the distance of needle movement between a properly functioning charging system and normal battery voltage is minimal. -------- Jerry King Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480498#480498 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
At 05:40 AM 5/29/2018, you wrote: > >Mike, be careful what you wish for. From my experience, 0 to 15V >voltmeters of ANY size are near useless for monitoring the aircraft >battery voltage and the charging system in flight. A compressed >scale type voltmeter like Westach 2A5, which provides a scale of 6 >to 16 volts (or the UMA 9 to 17V), offer better information with >ability to distinguish minor voltage fluctuations. With a standard >full scale, the distance of needle movement between a properly >functioning charging system and normal battery voltage is minimal. Agreed. For a voltmeter to be REALLY useful, it should focus on the spectrum of interest. You have zero interest in voltages below 10v or above 15v. Back in the not so dark ages, we offered a voltmeter/ loadmeter combo featuring a dual pointer instrument that was custom made for us by Westach. Their product was mostly okay . . . but about 10% of the goods were unusable right out of the box. Tried to get warranty replacements but they said, "sorry, you've had that instrument for more than 90 days." Emacs! Had to discontinue that offering. Another attempt to address miniature 'steam gage' loadmeters was launched with this product. Emacs! . . . and we fiddled with the notion of creating a single pointer, dual scale instrument in the same package. Emacs! It didn't seem to be a very viable project since these functions were being covered by most of the digital do-everything instruments coming into the market. This is an example of what Jerry is talking about for the expanded scale voltmeter. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 29, 2018
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
It seems to me that if ever there was an instance where a digital gauge is clearly superior to analog, it would be a volt meter, where fine resolution and accuracy are a must for monitoring the system. Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve. On Tue, May 29, 2018, 02:45 racerjerry wrote: > > > > Mike, be careful what you wish for. From my experience, 0 to 15V > voltmeters of ANY size are near useless for monitoring the aircraft battery > voltage and the charging system in flight. A compressed scale type > voltmeter like Westach 2A5, which provides a scale of 6 to 16 volts (or the > UMA 9 to 17V), offer better information with ability to distinguish minor > voltage fluctuations. With a standard full scale, the distance of needle > movement between a properly functioning charging system and normal battery > voltage is minimal. > > -------- > Jerry King > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480498#480498 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
At 11:19 AM 5/29/2018, you wrote: >It seems to me that if ever there was an instance where a digital >gauge is clearly superior to analog, it would be a volt meter, where >fine resolution and accuracy are a must for monitoring the system. This was a frequent discussion amongst pilots, engineers and marketing folks at various tenures in TC aircraft. There was a school of thought promoting instrumentation that would quickly flag a trend. For example, suppose all your 2" gages in a multi-engine aircraft were oriented such that 'normal' orientation was in some consistent 'clocking' . . . say 10-o'clock. A crew member conducting a scan of the panel did not have to pause, perceive, interprets and make a judgement on every displayed parameter. One could quickly some value that was not in visual lockstep with the rest of the systems. Digital displays off no such advantage. Then we had combo displays . . . bar graphs with adjacent digits. Hmmm . . . better but still pretty cluttered. Most of us learned to fly steam gages in SETC aircraft. There was no attempt to 'clock' the gages but given that there were few gages, it didn't take many hours of hood or cloud time to develop a mental image of normal displays . . . along with a refined awareness of readings that were not normal. For the most part, flight crew has little interest in the fine details of system numbers. The guys that need that kind of detail are repair technicians . . . who have the benefit of additional test equipment and diagnostic tools . . . on the ground. Then there's the matter of panel space. I wrote the spec and helped select a vendor for a customized, multi-channel, digital display that would let the crew watch any of serveral parameters of interest in detail. Values not being observed were monitored and thrown on the screen in detail when they ventured outside normal limits. This went into the first Gates-Piaggio 180s. There are strong arguments for both kinds of displays . . . but for different goals. Keeping it graphic-and-simple in the air goes to minimizing opportunity for error in stressful situations . . . like single pilot IFR . . . strange noises . . . icing . . . etc. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 29, 2018
Aha! A bi-directional electro-hydraulic system. Okay, you need TWO relays. Your wiring looks like this https://goo.gl/f6zECm Bob . . .[/quote] In this drawing it seems to me you would need to bring the 18AWG wire from the power source and first relay over to the second relay as well...Y/N? If not, why not? As depicted is shows 22 AWG bringing the power to the second relay. Thanks! Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480505#480505 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 29, 2018
Good catch Dave. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480507#480507 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
At 06:50 PM 5/29/2018, you wrote: > >Good catch Dave. > >-------- >Joe Gores > > Agreed . . . in fact, I stubbed my toe here. The drawing I linked you to was not the last iteration. I'm glad that the errors were so gross as to raise the question! Here's the real one https://goo.gl/qf9ihL I've run out of ANL30 limiters. Got some more coming that should be here Saturday. Will mail your care package either Saturday or Monday. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 29, 2018
-------- [/quote] Agreed . . . Here's the real one https://goo.gl/qf9ihL (https://goo.gl/qf9ihL) I've run out of ANL30 limiters. Got some more coming that should be here Saturday. Will mail your care package either Saturday or Monday. Bob . . .[/quote] OK, thanks for updated drawing. I note that the relays are powered thru and protected with a 3A c/b. Is the current draw on a relay stated anywhere as a spec typically? Reason I ask is that I have plenty of 5A and 1A breakers to tap but not sure if 1A is adequate for the relays. Dave... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480509#480509 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Analog Volt Meter
From: "racerjerry" <gnking2(at)verizon.net>
Date: May 30, 2018
Yes, I 'clocked' the gauges in the race car for instant recognition of an unusual event. Even so, I found I also needed a BIG red oil pressure light to get my attention. Many/most aircraft analog gauges are mounted with 4 screws which makes clocking impractical. Anyway, even with the compressed scale voltmeter, when charging system problems arose in flight, my first noticed indication was usually a fading display on my VHF radio. Not a biggie for me in my old 172K, because I generally stay out of class D & C airspace and only must save radio for last minute landing announcement and prepare for a no-flap landing. Having ANALOG gauges that require no electrical power is a big plus too. However, like the oil pressure light, charging system problems (and forgetting to turn darned master off) happen to me often enough that I needed to install a low voltage warning light to get my attention before battery power was depleted. I chose Eric Jones 13 Volt Idiot Light. Mounted the light on a tiny aluminum angle which is Velcroed to top of my glare shield and pointed right at my eyeball to get my attention. WORKS GREAT! Furthermore, it's powered through the cigarette lighter and requires no approvals / paperwork install when connected this way, even on a certified aircraft. -------- Jerry King Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480511#480511 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 30, 2018
https://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Relays/Automotive-Relays/_/N-b19z1Z1yzvvqx?No=25&P=1z0x3ubZ1z0x3x8Z1z0x3c8Z1z0x3caZ1z0x1q9Z1z0x2rfZ1yzmqzwZ1z0x0x7Z1z0z812Z1z0jzjlZ1z0z5i5 Small relays draw about 1/10 of an amp. A 1 amp circuit breaker should be fine. I would add a diode across the relay coil with the banded end connected to positive. A diode will short out inductive voltage spikes to minimize arcing across switch contacts. Even a little 1N4148 diode will work, although its wire leads are not robust. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480514#480514 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 30, 2018
Thanks Joe...good info! Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480521#480521 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
At 12:40 PM 5/30/2018, you wrote: > >Thanks Joe...good info! Geesh . . . you guys wont let me get away with anything . . . forgot the diodes . . . go get the drawing again. Thanks for the heads-up! Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 31, 2018
OK, have reviewed the new drawing (thank you Bob... :D )...but have a couple more questions I am pondering regarding implementation. (1) From my power source to the relay terminals (87). I would like to run a single 12 ga wire from the front of the aircraft where the ANL holder will be located and make a "Y" once I get near the relays for connection to each relay 87 terminal. Best way to fashion the "Y" ? My experience so far seems to say I cannot do a double wire splice/crimp with 12 AWG in a yellow connector. Similarly I would be doing the same thing with the gnd terminals (87A) so I could run a single ground wire forward to my firewall ground. So my question is how best to join two 12 AWG wires to a single 12AWG wire to fashion a "Y". I do have solder sleeves big enough...if that is acceptable? Open to any other ideas. (2) What is the electrical symbology between the relay terminals (30) to the motor - best I can ref is some sort of light indicator? (3) OK to crimp the diode leads in with the 22AWG terminals? Appreciate any comments, insight and suggestions! Dave... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480538#480538 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
At 08:20 PM 5/31/2018, you wrote: > >OK, have reviewed the new drawing (thank you Bob... :D )...but have >a couple more questions I am pondering regarding implementation. > >(1) From my power source to the relay terminals (87). I would like >to run a single 12 ga wire from the front of the aircraft where the >ANL holder will be located and make a "Y" once I get near the >relays for connection to each relay 87 terminal. Best way to >fashion the "Y" ? My experience so far seems to say I cannot do a >double wire splice/crimp with 12 AWG in a yellow >connector. Similarly I would be doing the same thing with the gnd >terminals (87A) so I could run a single ground wire forward to my >firewall ground. So my question is how best to join two 12 AWG >wires to a single 12AWG wire to fashion a "Y". I do have solder >sleeves big enough...if that is acceptable? Open to any other ideas. How about mounting the relays as close to the ANL30 as practical and simply run two wires to the motor? Mounting the relays close to battery contactor makes all the wires on the ship-side really short. The reason I took both 12AWG tot he ANL30 was for that same reason . . . two terminals on one stud. >(2) What is the electrical symbology between the relay terminals >(30) to the motor - best I can ref is some sort of light indicator? > >(3) OK to crimp the diode leads in with the 22AWG terminals? Hmmmm good question. I was going to send you pre-wired sockets to mate with the relays. You would splice ship's wireing to those flying leads. A soldered lap-splice under heat shrink is fine . . . but makes it tough to install diodes. Here's an alternative: https://goo.gl/QTT74j This shows an S704 with recessed tabs where the pre-wired socket doesn't work. The relays I have ar like this: Emacs! Since you need to apply your own terminals to the coils so you can add diodes, perhaps the sockets are more bother than asset. Let's go with taking ship's wires to the tabs with your own terminals. Another question: What's the plan-b for getting gear down if your power is down or the motor craps or a relay goes toast? Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 31, 2018
I could not find that symbol in this pdf: https://www.noao.edu/ets/Mechanical/Policies/ANSI%20Y32.2-1975.pdf My guess is that it is a splice. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480544#480544 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: B&C switches
> >(2) What is the electrical symbology between the relay terminals >(30) to the motor - best I can ref is some sort of light indicator? Splice. I presume your motor is fitted with flying leads which will get spliced to 12AWG extensions. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ground and ground loops
From: "Achille" <mickael.t(at)live.fr>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
Good morning, I send a message about ground loops and ground, I let my electrical system without finishing my work on it since months due to winter and other things. Yesterday I decided to finish it because it's the only things that I have to do to fly. And months without working on it let me a bit confuse, even if I had diagram that is close to Z19 from Bob book, but for a wooden canard plane. - My first question that I have it's about my ground on the alternator. On my drawing I wrote that I have a ground close to the battery on the forward side of the plane. (batery on the nose, and ground with B&C ground plate) and another ground spot on the engine side connected to the first via the 2awg ground for the starter. My alternator is screwed on the engine. If I set a 8 AWG wire from his ground terminal to the engine ground I will have a ground loop right ? (so I let it without ground wire ?) Also on my plane I was thinking that my 2awg starter ground will pickup all my ground that I have on the aft part of the plane. I wanted to set a bras plate bolt on the ground alternator screw were my 2 AWG starter but It looked like not mecanicaly good, so I set this ground on engine bolt encoutered around. It's bad right ? (All my work during month reading the book to do a "good" electrical systeme are loosed on this " engine case bolt ground" ? Thank you in advance to help me. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480548#480548 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ground_mickael_176.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
[i][i] nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote: > At 08:20 PM 5/31/2018, you wrote: > > > > > OK, have reviewed the new drawing (thank you Bob... :D )...but have a couple more questions I am pondering regarding implementation. > > > > (1) From my power source to the relay terminals (87). I would like to run a single 12 ga wire from the front of the aircraft where the ANL holder will be located and make a "Y" once I get near the relays for connection to each relay 87 terminal. Best way to fashion the "Y" ? My experience so far seems to say I cannot do a double wire splice/crimp with 12 AWG in a yellow connector. Similarly I would be doing the same thing with the gnd terminals (87A) so I could run a single ground wire forward to my firewall ground. So my question is how best to join two 12 AWG wires to a single 12AWG wire to fashion a "Y". I do have solder sleeves big enough...if that is acceptable? Open to any other ideas. > > [i] How about mounting the relays as close to the ANL30 > as practical and simply run two wires to the motor? > Mounting the relays close to battery contactor makes > all the wires on the ship-side really short. > > The reason I took both 12AWG tot he ANL30 was for > that same reason . . . two terminals on one stud. > > > > > > I agree, this seems like the best way to do this - everything close to the firewall and only two wires aft to the pump > > > > > > (2) What is the electrical symbology between the relay terminals (30) to the motor - best I can ref is some sort of light indicator? > > > > (3) OK to crimp the diode leads in with the 22AWG terminals? > > Hmmmm good question. I was going to send > you pre-wired sockets to mate with the > relays. You would splice ship's wireing > to those flying leads. A soldered lap-splice under > heat shrink is fine . . . but makes it tough > to install diodes. > > Here's an alternative: https://goo.gl/QTT74j (https://goo.gl/QTT74j) > > This shows an S704 with recessed tabs where > the pre-wired socket doesn't work. > > The relays I have ar like this: > > [img]cid:.0[/img] > > Since you need to apply your own terminals > to the coils so you can add diodes, perhaps > the sockets are more bother than asset. Let's > go with taking ship's wires to the tabs with > your own terminals. ---- Easily done > > > > Another question: What's the plan-b for getting > gear down if your power is down or the motor > craps or a relay goes toast? > > The alternate plan is to take the aircraft to the water if gear is stuck up and if anything but full up then take it to the grass or asphalt. That's probably why a lot of Alaskan amphibs have manual pumps. [Wink] [Wink] A small manual hydraulic pump may eventually replace the electric pump, but cockpit ergonomics are an issue which I haven't worked out yet.[/b] > > Bob . . . Thanks for the dialog and insight Bob! Will advise when in receipt of the "care package" Dave... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480550#480550 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
user9253 wrote: > I could not find that symbol in this pdf: > https://www.noao.edu/ets/Mechanical/Policies/ANSI%20Y32.2-1975.pdf > My guess is that it is a splice. Thanks Joe, that makes sense!! Funny how things are usually clearer after a good night's sleep... Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480551#480551 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ground and ground loops
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
> If I set a 8 AWG wire from his ground terminal to the engine ground I will have a ground loop right ? I would install that alternator ground wire. The engine ground bolt should be fine. Ground loops are more of a concern for avionics and audio. Grounding them at a single point is good. Consider using an EFIS instead of round gauges. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480552#480552 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: B&C switches
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
> Funny how things are usually clearer after a good night's sleep... Sitting on the toilet for a few minutes helps me solve problems. LOL -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480553#480553 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Ground and ground loops
At 04:05 AM 6/1/2018, you wrote: > >Good morning, > >I send a message about ground loops and ground, I let my electrical >system without finishing my work on it since months due to winter >and other things. > >Yesterday I decided to finish it because it's the only things that I >have to do to fly. And months without working on it let me a bit >confuse, even if I had diagram that is close to Z19 from Bob book, >but for a wooden canard plane. > >- My first question that I have it's about my ground on the alternator. > >On my drawing I wrote that I have a ground close to the battery on >the forward side of the plane. (batery on the nose, and ground with >B&C ground plate) and another ground spot on the engine side >connected to the first via the 2awg ground for the starter. > My alternator is screwed on the engine. If I set a 8 AWG wire from > his ground terminal to the engine ground I will have a ground loop > right ? (so I let it without ground wire ?) Alternators automatically ground by virtue of their metallic mounts to the engine. No additional attention necessary. >Also on my plane I was thinking that my 2awg starter ground will >pickup all my ground that I have on the aft part of the plane. I >wanted to set a bras plate bolt on the ground alternator screw were >my 2 AWG starter but It looked like not mecanicaly good, so I set >this ground on engine bolt encoutered around. > >It's bad right ? (All my work during month reading the book to do a >"good" electrical systeme are loosed on this " engine case bolt ground" Is this a canard pusher? Check out this ground system architecture https://goo.gl/9PELRS Think of your ground system as a 'star' centered on the B&C Ground Block bolt. You need a starter current rated jumper (2AWG certainly adequate) from a good crankcase attach point to the ground block bolt. You need a jumper from battery(-) to the ground block bolt. All other 'stuff' grounds at the block with wires of same AWG as the power feeder. Exception: All panel mounted electro-whizzies get their own 'star' system. Exceptions: Any avionics shields that show ground symbols should ground locally to their associated black box . . . do not extend shield grounds down to the B&C Ground Bus. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ground and ground loops
From: "Achille" <mickael.t(at)live.fr>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
Many thanks Joe and Bob for you reply. I am reading again the book and it refresh my "knowledge" very well. So I will let my alternator WHITOUT ground wire if I understand well; My engine case couldn't substitute the firewall ground buse ? (I tell that because I already set ground on it.... Thing that I would like to avoid since.. yeasterday. [Rolling Eyes] [Rolling Eyes] [Rolling Eyes] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480560#480560 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alarm souder with multiple sources
From: "Achille" <mickael.t(at)live.fr>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
Thank for your reply andy, i did not see it. I was thinking about more easy and simply gadget. Just with buzzer and led. I have done a drawing for my 3 systems alarm to begin, now I have to set it in a more conventional way. (to do not have 3 sounder, and 3 switch to mute them) - Starter still engage - Oil press low - Sounder from my low/high voltage "idiot light" (has an option to wire a buzzer) I was thinking to use simply diode in each entry and the only one switch/led/sounder ? But it's not my best matter electronic. Mainly to set it on a plane, don't want to do a mistake. I anyone have an idea... or advice. [Wink] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480562#480562 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_7354_497.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Netgear 1010 Powerline Adapter Feedback
Date: Jun 01, 2018
I just today received and installed these Netgear Powerline 1010 internet extenders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929V7ZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie =UTF8 &psc=1 NOTE: the come in a "wired" and "wireless" options and make sure you select the wireless if you want to have WIFI in the remote location. The instructions are HORRIBLE and the person who wrote the instructions should be required to setup a system based on using their instructions and then they will realize how stupid they actually are. So here was the scenario: I have a DSL modem/ WIFI router (in one convenient plastic case) and it has a black box power cord that plugs into the wall making heat and using electricity. If my house was small that would be the singular solution however my house is large...and...it also has the steel outbuilding (hangar/workshop) 50 feet away. The outbuilding is on the same power supply (downstream of the meter) as the house. So I thought "great"...buy one BASE unit (plug looking box that does not have a WIFI antenna) and connect that to my existing router using the CAT 5 cable and then that box will digitize the internet signal and then use the house copper wires as the wired connection to transmit the internet signal to the far end of the house. Then I will plug in the "WIFI ACCESS POINT" (plug looking box with the antenna) to grab the internet signal from the house coper wires and then transmit WIFI to that part of the house. I would also use an additional WIFI ACCESS POINT and plug that into a socket in the master bedroom, and then use a third WIFI access point out in the shop. So I need one BASE unit and three WIFI ACCESS POINTS .check. HOWEVER.Netgear only sells these things in bundles (one BASE unit and one WIFI EXTENDER) and they do NOT sell the WIFI EXTENDERS separately!!! So I am stuck having to buy THREE bundles and toss out the two unneeded BASE units (or buy two bundles PLUS a separate WIFI router then that router will have cables and wasted electricity. Good thing these things come in bundles because one BASE unit did not work so I tossed it out and grabbed another unused one (was already in the garbage can because I thought I did not need it) and connected it up and synced the units and it worked. I used Speedtest to conduct two download tests of my Duraspeed WIFI router to set a benchmark and then with each of the Netgear WIFI units up and running and located in the exact same room as the Duraspeed and at the same distance I ran two speed tests of each Netgear WIFI unit. Then I took the Netgear WIFI units out to the outbuilding and conducted two tests of each unit and to ensure reliable comparison I made sure my laptop was the same distance away from each unit when conducting the test and I also used the exact same wall outlet for each unit. Ping Download Upload Duraspeed DSL Modem/WIFI Router 26 11.68 1.24 80 12.00 1.49 Netgear 18 In House 31 11.96 1.52 38 12.09 1.50 Netgear 18 In Outbuilding 33 12.09 1.50 131 12.26 1.50 Netgear 68 In House 21 11.79 1.47 87 3.14 1.51 Netgear 68 In Outbuilding 32 8.31 1.50 Second test stalled Third test stalled 27 12.48 1.50 Well.it seems to be working now.I will report back if there are any more issues. .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Conduit Pass Through Question
Date: Jun 01, 2018
Dear Knower Of All Things That Dewlleth Within My Computer, I am installing an evaporative cooler in my steel building hangar because it is getting kinda toasty here in Western Arizona=85but hey=85It=92s a dry heat?!?!/ So I am running =BD inch steel conduit for the 220V wire and =BD inch PVC for the water line and I need to get these two aforementioned pipes from the inside of the hangar to the outside where the new totally cool evaporative cooler is being installed. For those who have done this kind of work before, can you PLEASE direct me to a bushing that can be inserted into the sheet metal steel wall and then I can slide the conduits through that bushing=85OR=85if there is a better way then I would be happy to hear it. I have researched The Google to no avail=85it did have hundred dollar firewall pass through units but no such economical bushings. .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Conduit Pass Through Question
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
On 6/1/2018 6:30 PM, William Hunter wrote: > > Dear Knower Of All Things That Dewlleth Within My Computer, > > I am installing an evaporative cooler in my steel building hangar > because it is getting kinda toasty here in Western Arizonabut > heyIts a dry heat?!?!/ > > So I am running inch steel conduit for the 220V wire and inch PVC > for the water line and I need to get these two aforementioned pipes > from the inside of the hangar to the outside where the new totally > cool evaporative cooler is being installed. > > For those who have done this kind of work before, can you PLEASE > direct me to a bushing that can be inserted into the sheet metal steel > wall and then I can slide the conduits through that bushingORif > there is a better way then I would be happy to hear it. > > I have researched The Google to no availit did have hundred dollar > firewall pass through units but no such economical bushings. > > .. > > Cheers!!! > > Bill Hunter > Well first, I wouldn't use steel conduit; I'd use PVC electrical conduit (the gray stuff). Won't rust & doesn't UV degrade. Much easier to work with, unless you have all the required electrician's tools. For the electrical pass-through, 'LB' conduit fittings are one common way to do it. https://www.google.com/search?q=lb+conduit+fitting&oq=lb+conduit+fitting&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.12062j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 If you feel you must have a watertight seal, you can caulk around the hole in the siding. For water, I'd just have to guess. How about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-eLander-Plastic-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B01ICZAJL4/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527898277&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=npt+bulkhead+fitting&psc=1 Buy a size that will accept your PVC pipe & run a section of pipe through it. Use PVC couplers on both ends. I guess you could do the same thing with the electrical, now that I think about it. Hope that gives you some ideas, Charlie --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Conduit Pass Through Question
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
One possibility is to use a "threaded bushed nipple" large enough for the conduit to pass through. A conduit-lock-nut will hold the bushed nipple in place. Bushed nipples are threaded on the outside and smooth on the inside. Search Google for "threaded bushed nipple". -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480572#480572 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 01, 2018
Subject: Re: Conduit Pass Through Question
Joe and Charlie, As always I know I could count on you! For the water I think I'm going to go with the bushing that was pointed out . For the electricity I think I'm going to go with the 90 degree conduit "pull through" with a threaded end and that will go from the inside of the hanger through the metal wall to the outside On the outside I will install a powder coated, grey, weatherproof box and from that box I will use the coil conduit to run the wires to the unit itself Thanks again Bill Hunter On Fri, Jun 1, 2018, 17:34 user9253 wrote: > > One possibility is to use a "threaded bushed nipple" large enough for the > conduit to pass through. A conduit-lock-nut will hold the bushed nipple in > place. > Bushed nipples are threaded on the outside and smooth on the inside. > Search Google for "threaded bushed nipple". > > -------- > Joe Gores > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480572#480572 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Amperage runaway
From: "BobD" <rjd(at)bobdawson.plus.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Thanks for your response William. I took your advice, and checked the Shunt ( nothing obvious ). Not flying for the next few weeks, so will check again when next in the air ( and watch closely during the ground run ). I will also be updating the Skyview software to the latest release before the next flight (although doubt that this is relevant to this particular potential problem ) -------- Bob Dawson XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480575#480575 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Subject: Re: Amperage runaway
Ok Well the good thing is that its unlikely that the rotax generator will put out anything over 17amps so you're unlikely to have sparks and smoke. I have just installed a cheap hall effect ammeter because because my dynon did an uncommanded reset in flight. This brought to mind the need for back of flight and key engine instruments. That said in general terms i like the dynon very much but like any gizmo it can fail. Will Xs tri 912 turbo dynon airmaster On Sat, Jun 2, 2018, 02:49 BobD wrote: > > Thanks for your response William. > I took your advice, and checked the Shunt ( nothing obvious ). Not flying > for the next few weeks, so will check again when next in the air ( and > watch closely during the ground run ). > I will also be updating the Skyview software to the latest release before > the next flight (although doubt that this is relevant to this particular > potential problem ) > > -------- > Bob Dawson > XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480575#480575 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Subject: alternator whine
Bob et al. Where should I start looking to fix an annoying alternator whine in my headset? Features: -the pitch of the whine is RPM dependent -the amplitude is fixed and doesnt change when the intercom volume or the volume of any of the radios or other avionics are adjusted -its present regardless if any audio source is selected in the audio panel -it goes away when the intercom is unpowered I am thinking the intercom (a PM2000) has poor noise rejection on the voltage rail; or is it something that should be investigated at the alternator/voltage regulator end? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Subject: Re: alternator whine
I had similar symptoms, cured by grounding everything in the panel to a single point. Peter On Sat, 2 Jun 2018, 13:14 Alec Myers, wrote: > > Bob et al. > > Where should I start looking to fix an annoying alternator whine in my > headset? > > Features: > -the pitch of the whine is RPM dependent > -the amplitude is fixed and doesn=99t change when the intercom volu me or the > volume of any of the radios or other avionics are adjusted > -it=99s present regardless if any audio source is selected in the a udio panel > -it goes away when the intercom is unpowered > > I am thinking the intercom (a PM2000) has poor noise rejection on the > voltage rail; or is it something that should be investigated at the > alternator/voltage regulator end? > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: gps and alternator.
From: "bobnoffs" <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
hi all, i have a really easy place to mount my gps antennas under the cowl but they would be within 4' of the alternator. will i be asking for trouble? thanks, bob noffs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480579#480579 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Subject: Re: alternator whine
That has been done. On Jun 2, 2018, at 08:36, Peter Pengilly wrote: I had similar symptoms, cured by grounding everything in the panel to a sing le point. Peter > On Sat, 2 Jun 2018, 13:14 Alec Myers, wrote: > > Bob et al. > > Where should I start looking to fix an annoying alternator whine in my hea dset? > > Features: > -the pitch of the whine is RPM dependent > -the amplitude is fixed and doesn=99t change when the intercom volum e or the volume of any of the radios or other avionics are adjusted > -it=99s present regardless if any audio source is selected in the au dio panel > -it goes away when the intercom is unpowered > > I am thinking the intercom (a PM2000) has poor noise rejection on the volt age rail; or is it something that should be investigated at the alternator/v oltage regulator end? > > > > > ========== > - > Electric-List" rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www. matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > ========== > FORUMS - > eferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > WIKI - > errer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution > ========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John's Mail" <n81jg(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Subject: Re: alternator whine
I have had a similar whine develop suddenly after months of normal quiet aud io at least 3 times and returned the alternator to manufacturer. All were re placed because of either loss of a winding or loss of a rectifying diode res ulting in a ripple DC creating the whine. John Greaves RV7A and Varieze Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 2, 2018, at 6:02 AM, Alec Myers wrote: > > That has been done. > > On Jun 2, 2018, at 08:36, Peter Pengilly wrote: > > I had similar symptoms, cured by grounding everything in the panel to a si ngle point. > Peter > >> On Sat, 2 Jun 2018, 13:14 Alec Myers, wrote: >> >> Bob et al. >> >> Where should I start looking to fix an annoying alternator whine in my he adset? >> >> Features: >> -the pitch of the whine is RPM dependent >> -the amplitude is fixed and doesn=99t change when the intercom volu me or the volume of any of the radios or other avionics are adjusted >> -it=99s present regardless if any audio source is selected in the a udio panel >> -it goes away when the intercom is unpowered >> >> I am thinking the intercom (a PM2000) has poor noise rejection on the vol tage rail; or is it something that should be investigated at the alternator/ voltage regulator end? >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> - >> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www .matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> WIKI - >> errer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/ contribution >> ========== >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2018
From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: gps and alternator.
The frequency that GPS works at is so far above anything the alternator pro duces, I can't imagine them ever being able to cross talk. On Saturday, June 2, 2018 8:56 AM, bobnoffs wrote: hi all, i have a really easy place to mount my gps antennas under the cowl but the y would be within 4' of the alternator. will i be asking for trouble? thanks, bob noffs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480579#480579 - S - WIKI - - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Subject: Re: gps and alternator.
thanks, good news ernest. bob Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Ernest Christley wrote: > The frequency that GPS works at is so far above anything the alternator > produces, I can't imagine them ever being able to cross talk. > > > On Saturday, June 2, 2018 8:56 AM, bobnoffs wrote: > > > hi all, > i have a really easy place to mount my gps antennas under the cowl but > they would be within 4' of the alternator. will i be asking for trouble? > thanks, > bob noffs > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480579#480579 > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List<= Same great content > also available via the Web Forums! > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution=================== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
Subject: Re: gps and alternator.
But a GPS antenna needs a good view of the sky. They=99re usually moun ted on top of the aircraft, not under it. On Jun 2, 2018, at 16:21, bob noffs wrote: thanks, good news ernest. bob Virus-free. www.avast.com > On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Ernest Christley wrot e: > The frequency that GPS works at is so far above anything the alternator pr oduces, I can't imagine them ever being able to cross talk. > > > On Saturday, June 2, 2018 8:56 AM, bobnoffs wrote: > > > > hi all, > i have a really easy place to mount my gps antennas under the cowl but the y would be within 4' of the alternator. will i be asking for trouble? > thanks, > bob noffs > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480579#480579 > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List<= Same great conten t also available via the Web Forums! > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution============= ====== > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: gps and alternator.
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 02, 2018
If what you heard on the interwebs is worth anything to you, I'm aware of numerous RV-x a/c builders that say they have installed a shelf high on the firewall in the engine compartment and have excellent GPS performance. The newer stuff is so good, it's much better at locking on to signals than we might expect. And at least for the newer VFR stuff, many of the receivers will use whatever is in the sky at the moment; US, Euro, Russian, etc. So the odds of seeing four of *somebody's* satellites are really good. For temperatures, I'm not really sure which is worse; 140-150 degree air under the cowl while flying, or about the same temps (possibly worse, where I live) continuously if the plane is left in the sun on the ground and the puck is mounted on the glare shield. Charlie On 6/2/2018 4:11 PM, Alec Myers wrote: > But a GPS antenna needs a good view of the sky. Theyre usually > mounted on top of the aircraft, not under it. > > On Jun 2, 2018, at 16:21, bob noffs > wrote: > > thanks, good news ernest. > bob > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Ernest Christley > wrote: > > The frequency that GPS works at is so far above anything the > alternator produces, I can't imagine them ever being able to cross > talk. > > > On Saturday, June 2, 2018 8:56 AM, bobnoffs > wrote: > > > > > > hi all, > i have a really easy place to mount my gps antennas under the cowl > but they would be within 4' of the alternator. will i be asking > for trouble? > thanks, > bob noffs > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480579#480579 > <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480579#480579> > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List > <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List><= Same > great content also available via the Web Forums! > http://forums.matronics.com > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>=================== > > --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2018
From: speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: Am I creating a Ground Loop?
Fellow Aeroelectric Brothers, According to Wikipedia: A ground loop is caused by the interconnection of electrical equipment that results in there being multiple paths to ground, so a closed conductive loop is formed, With that in mind, let me try to describe what I am doing and ask if you think I am creating a ground loop. I am in the midst of removing old EFIS, radio, AP and installing all new. As a sideshow to that effort I decided, since I have everything gutted, to replace the older Whelen strobe/position lights with new Whelen LED strobe/position lights. The old system was effectively two separate systems. The old position lights were grounded at the wingtip. The strobe lights had a central power supply (fuselage mounted) which was grounded at the firewall forest of tabs. The new all-LED strobe/position light was designed with a single ground wire that provides ground for both the position lights and the strobe. I am attempting to use the original wiring as much as possible to avoid running wires to the wingtips again. If I connect the new single ground wire to the wingtip ground, only the position lights work. If I connect the single ground wire to the old strobe power supply ground (firewall) only the strobe works. If I were to splice the wingtip ground wire and the firewall ground wire together so as to have a single ground wire to attach to the new LED unit, am I creating a ground loop? Thanks for your advice, Stan Sutterfield ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Am I creating a Ground Loop?
At 11:56 AM 6/3/2018, you wrote: >Fellow Aeroelectric Brothers, > >According to Wikipedia: A ground loop is caused by the >interconnection of electrical equipment that results in there being >multiple paths to ground, so a closed conductive loop is formed, > >With that in mind, let me try to describe what I am doing and ask if >you think I am creating a ground loop. > >I am in the midst of removing old EFIS, radio, AP and installing all >new. As a sideshow to that effort I decided, since I have >everything gutted, to replace the older Whelen strobe/position >lights with new Whelen LED strobe/position lights. > >The old system was effectively two separate systems. The old >position lights were grounded at the wingtip. The strobe lights had >a central power supply (fuselage mounted) which was grounded at the >firewall forest of tabs. > >The new all-LED strobe/position light was designed with a single >ground wire that provides ground for both the position lights and the strobe. > >I am attempting to use the original wiring as much as possible to >avoid running wires to the wingtips again. > >If I connect the new single ground wire to the wingtip ground, only >the position lights work. If I connect the single ground wire to >the old strobe power supply ground (firewall) only the strobe works. > >If I were to splice the wingtip ground wire and the firewall ground >wire together so as to have a single ground wire to attach to the >new LED unit, am I creating a ground loop? > >Thanks for your advice, Review this drawing https://goo.gl/TW8wFF Significant 'ground loops' ONLY involve potential victims which includes but is not limited to audio systems, avionics, engine instrumentation, or any other system that works with and reacts to SMALL signals. This does not involve LARGE signals like the ground currents for landing lights, pitot heat, hydraulic pumps, alternators, etc. In fact, those LARGE signals devices are what creats tiny voltage drops on the AIRFRAME that might affect a SMALL signal system that seeks more than one ground on separate airframe locations. In the figure cited I illustrate a potential problem with the headset ground and grounding of an oil pressure transducer. In fact, improper grounding of both of these items was identified as a source of difficulties here on the List and discussed in my writings. The greatest prophylactic against ground induced noise/interference is the creation of a central ground point for potential victims . . . usually limited to those devices mounted on the panel I suggested fabrication of an instrument panel ground bus https://goo.gl/VX53mE https://goo.gl/rsVefK This can be fabricated from a D-sub connector and mounted at some convenient, central location at the panel. Grounds for all potential victims can be gathered together at this location thus INSURING that all such appliances share a single common ground with NO REMOTE GROUNDS elsewhere on the airframe. A multiple strand grounding bundle is run from this bus to the firewall bus where all the other stuff gets a ground. Suggest you use a 25 or 37 pin connector to fabricate the bus . . . better to have TOO MANY ground locations than to be nearly done and run out of grounds. All that other stuff OFF THE PANEL, ground locally on a metal airplane or take ground return to the firewall bus on a plastic airplane. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Am I creating a Ground Loop?
From: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 03, 2018
Since the old position lights were grounded at the wingtip, that implies that the wingtip ground wire was only a few inches long. I do not understand how the wingtip ground wire is in the fuselage. Is this a metal airplane? Regardless, I would connect both ground wires to the firewall. The important thing is to ground all avionics and instruments to one single location. Make sure that audio and Mic jacks are not grounded locally. Mount jacks with insulating washers. -------- Joe Gores Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=480612#480612 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2018
From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: gps and alternator.
A fiberglass cowling is practically transparent to GPS signals. On Saturday, June 2, 2018 5:13 PM, Alec Myers wrot e: But a GPS antenna needs a good view of the sky. They=99re usually mo unted on top of the aircraft, not under it. On Jun 2, 2018, at 16:21, bob noffs wrote: thanks, good news ernest. =C2-bob | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Ernest Christley wrote : The frequency that GPS works at is so far above anything the alternator pro duces, I can't imagine them ever being able to cross talk. On Saturday, June 2, 2018 8:56 AM, bobnoffs wrote: hi all, i have a really easy place to mount my gps antennas under the cowl but the y would be within 4' of the alternator. will i be asking for trouble? thanks, bob noffs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/ viewtopic.php?p=480579#480579 http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?AeroElectric-List<= Same great conten t also available via the Web Forums! http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/ contribution=== =============== = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Jun 04, 2018
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar??? Bob, WOW, that was easy! I now have extended our home network to my shop using a pair of those Asoka PlugLink 9650s. Plugged one into a power socket and connected it via ethernet cable to my Airport Extreme. Plugged the other into the wall in my shop and connected it via ethernet cable to an Airport Express. Opened the Airport Utility on my MacBook Air and told it the Airport Express was an extension of the home net and it was. Whole thing didn=99t take more than 2 minutes. Very Cool indeed! Thanks muchly for this non-aviation but powerful tip. This should work a treat for the guy who wants to go 50 feet to his hangar. Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (130 hrs). Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules Prop. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger(at)mac.com On May 25, 2018, at 9:06 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > > My steel hangar is about 50 feet away and there is cement and asphalt over the ground between the house and the hangar so to dig down and install a CAT 5 cable run out to the hangar is not a fun option. > > Are there any WIFI extender options available to get WIFI out to the hangar? I presume you have AC power in the hangar. I'm also hoping that the feeder comes off a breaker in your house. If so, you might consider a product like this: https://goo.gl/srUq55 Asoka is not the only supplier of such devices. These are power line connected cat5 transceivers. Put one in the house with a jumper to your router and the second in the hangar. I've been using these things around here for several years . . . saved me a lot of time/effort stringing wire. I've got a couple of surplus devices I could send you to experiment with. But if your hangar doesn't get ac power from the house distribution panel . . . all bets are off. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar??? At 01:52 PM 6/4/2018, you wrote: >Bob, > >WOW, that was easy! > >I now have extended our home network to my shop >using a pair of those Asoka PlugLink >9650s. Plugged one into a power socket and >connected it via ethernet cable to my Airport >Extreme. Plugged the other into the wall in my >shop and connected it via ethernet cable to an >Airport Express. Opened the Airport Utility on >my MacBook Air and told it the Airport Express >was an extension of the home net and it >was. Whole thing didn=99t take more than 2 minutes. Very Cool indeed! > >Thanks muchly for this non-aviation but powerful tip. > >This should work a treat for the guy who wants to go 50 feet to his hangar. I've had generally good results with that product with one caveat . . . my house was built 1965 with real "Romex" . . . tarpaper over hemp over pvc over copper. It's characteristics as a transmission line are, no doubt shady compared to modern wiring. I have a few outlets (most remote from breaker box) that give marginal connection. But for the most part, they've worked well for me too. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Hunter" <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar???
Date: Jun 04, 2018
I installed the Netgear 1010 units and was equally happy with the results. Our solar system has a similar =9Cpowerline=9D adapter that was just delivered and I need to plug it injust curious is two of these adapters connected to the same power system would screw with each others communication. I will install the SunPower adapter and report backIFit does not get cyber smoked?!?!? .. Cheers!!! Bill Hunter From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Borger Sent: Monday, June 4, 2018 11:52 AM Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote Steel Hangar??? Bob, WOW, that was easy! I now have extended our home network to my shop using a pair of those Asoka PlugLink 9650s. Plugged one into a power socket and connected it via ethernet cable to my Airport Extreme. Plugged the other into the wall in my shop and connected it via ethernet cable to an Airport Express. Opened the Airport Utility on my MacBook Air and told it the Airport Express was an extension of the home net and it was. Whole thing didn=99t take more than 2 minutes. Very Cool indeed! Thanks muchly for this non-aviation but powerful tip. This should work a treat for the guy who wants to go 50 feet to his hangar. Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (130 hrs). Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules Prop. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger(at)mac.com On May 25, 2018, at 9:06 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III > wrote: My steel hangar is about 50 feet away and there is cement and asphalt over the ground between the house and the hangar so to dig down and install a CAT 5 cable run out to the hangar is not a fun option. Are there any WIFI extender options available to get WIFI out to the hangar? I presume you have AC power in the hangar. I'm also hoping that the feeder comes off a breaker in your house. If so, you might consider a product like this: https://goo.gl/srUq55 Asoka is not the only supplier of such devices. These are power line connected cat5 transceivers. Put one in the house with a jumper to your router and the second in the hangar. I've been using these things around here for several years . . . saved me a lot of time/effort stringing wire. I've got a couple of surplus devices I could send you to experiment with. But if your hangar doesn't get ac power from the house distribution panel . . . all bets are off. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2018
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: WIFI Repeater/Booster Options For My Remote
Steel Hangar??? At 02:09 PM 6/4/2018, you wrote: >I installed the Netgear 1010 units and was equally happy with the results. > >Our solar system has a similar =9Cpowerline=9D >adapter that was just delivered and I need to >plug it in=85just curious is two of these adapters >connected to the same power system would screw >with each others communication.=C2 I will install >the SunPower adapter and report back=85IF=85it does not get cyber er smoked?!?!? The Asoka units can be 'stacked' in the same facility. They simply become an additional port to what might be considered a whole- house cat5 switch. I've had as many as five transceivers active at the same time with a couple of 'roving' units used for handing a cat5 cable to a visitor. I.P. addresses for devices on the various ports are managed by your home router. Bob . . . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2018
From: speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Am I creating a Ground Loop?
Bob and Joe, Thanks for your responses. Stan Sutterfield


May 21, 2018 - June 04, 2018

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