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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 24, 2020
From: 
Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
Subject: 
Re: Headset repair
      
      Busting open the mic cartridge reveals this. The tiny mic component has 55D
      K02 stamped on the side.=C2- With o-scope leads across the terminal, I'm 
      not able to get any response by speaking into it.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Headset repair
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Mar 23, 2020
      
      Well, that's a shame....It's been quite a while since I've bought a new 
      muff style headset (went to Halo-s about 5 years ago, after a decade of 
      love-hate with Lightspeeds). I've never seen the mic set up that way on 
      any of the common makers, from a decade before to a decade after the 
      turn of the century. Everything I've owned (multiple brands) has always 
      used something close (or identical) to the links I sent.
      
      Hope Telex can help.
      
      Charlie
      
      On 3/23/2020 6:51 PM, Ernest Christley wrote:
      > I don't think those mics would work, Charlie. I'm going to try to 
      > attach a picture of what I have. I was able to use the online chat to 
      > get an email from Telex tech support. The email bounced.
      >
      >
      > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
      > 
      >
      >     On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:41 PM, Charlie England
      >      wrote:
      >
      >
      >     On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 2:51 PM Ernest Christley
      >     > wrote:
      >
      >         I've got a pair of Telex Echelon's, and the mic has stopped
      >         working on them. Even though they're 20 years old, they are
      >         in excellent shape other than the mic.
      >
      >         Does anyone know where could I find replacement parts or
      >         information on how to repair the mic?
      >
      >
      >     Not familiar with that particular model, but back when I was using
      >     OTE headsets, just about every company used the same 'footprint'
      >     mic. I've had good luck just hitting up one of the less-than-major
      >     headsetcompanies for a replacement. I've even gotten one for
      >     free, IIRC. See if this link matches what you have:
      >     https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Vtg-ASTRCOM-10927-Aircraft-Aviation-Wire-Frame-Boom-Microphone-for-Headset/273614720674?hash=item3fb4b54ea2:g:~dkAAOSw0HlbwiXj
      >     All the versions I've seen have a 2 pin plug on the mic cord that
      >     plugs into the mic and is then secured with 2 set screws.
      >
      >     I just searched for 'aviation headset replacement microphone'.
      >
      >     Here's a link from Pilot Mall for one that's a bit more expensive:
      >     https://www.pilotmall.com/products/pilot-usa-david-clark-h10-76-conversion-kit-pa-75-pa-5x?_pos=17&_sid=5ee04d448&_ss=r
      >     Notice that it's identical, even though it's a replacement for a
      >     different headset.
      >
      >     Most (not all) have a gain adjustment trimpot accessible through a
      >     hole somewhere on the mic. You might need to adjust the gain to
      >     match what your old one put out before it died. Note that these
      >     are typically *gain* pots for the internal amplifier for electret
      >     condenser mic; not volume controls.
      >
      >     Charlie
      >
      
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Headset repair
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Mar 23, 2020
      
      
      On 3/23/2020 7:12 PM, Ernest Christley wrote:
      > Busting open the mic cartridge reveals this. The tiny mic component 
      > has 55DK02 stamped on the side. With o-scope leads across the 
      > terminal, I'm not able to get any response by speaking into it. 
      No image this time.
      
      In my obviously limited experience (see the email I just sent), all the 
      modern headsets I've played with have electret condenser mics that 
      require DC power to work. Since I've never seen your configuration, I 
      suppose it's possible that they're using a dynamic mic. Very doubtful 
      it's a carbon mic, it would probably be a lot bigger.
      
      You might want to plug the headset's mic plug into an active intercom, 
      and check the little connector for DC bias voltage, both with the mic 
      connected and without. The DC bias should be there regardless of whether 
      the mic is connected.
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 24, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Headset repair
      
      At 07:12 PM 3/23/2020, you wrote:
      >Busting open the mic cartridge reveals this. The tiny mic component 
      >has 55DK02 stamped on the side.  With o-scope leads across the 
      >terminal, I'm not able to get any response by speaking into it.
      
          I'd bet that 99.999% of all microphone elements
          in common service are of the 'electret' variety.
          Easy to make, rugged, can be very small . . . but
          this comes with a price.
      
          Special attention needs to be paid to smooth
          frequency response and minimize distortion. Qualities
          of concern for 'high end' mic manufacturers (studio
          quality recordings). Many high-end microphones
          still exploit legacy technologies to achieve
          the desired performance.
      
          But the great unwashed, 'communications
          grade' microphones will use this technology.
      
      https://tinyurl.com/k59r249
      
          These critters need to be biased at something
          on the order of 2-4 volts. In aircraft microphones,
          getting this bias is no big deal . . . aircraft
          audio systems EXPECT a carbon microphone analog,
          their design includes a bias network to supply
          voltage to the microphone.
      
          So your experiment to exercise the microphone
          while observing output on a 'scope would
          not yield useful information unless you
          implement the necessary external bias
          supply.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Revisiting a REALLY handy tool . . .
From: 
"blues750" <den_beaulieu(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Mar 27, 2020
      
      
      LOL
      
      "...You'll begin to feel sorry 
      for the wire and shrink..."
      
      Thanks Bob
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495454#495454
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
ADS-B Ground Plane Question
From: 
"markfw" <markwheelermd(at)icloud.com>
Date: 
Mar 27, 2020
      
      
      I will be mounting a uAvionix echoUAT ADS-B antenna on the belly pan of my cub.
      The vendor says to keep it 1 meter from my transponder antenna, which is mounted
      14" forward of the leading edge of my belly pan.
      
      The pan itself is an isosceles triangle with a 15" base and a length of 32". The
      pointy part of the pan is oriented facing aft.
      
      Thus I have to place my Rami blade antenna toward the narrow (aft) part of the
      belly pan to stay 1 meter away from the transponder antenna.
      
      My problem is that at the location that is sufficiently far from the transponder
      antenna the belly pan has narrowed so that it does not provide the 5" diameter
      circular ground plane that is apparently required.
      
      SO (after all that), my question is whether the ground plane is only the part of
      of the belly pan that is immediately adjacent to the antenna, or is it the whole
      belly pan?
      
      A related question is whether I can "cheat" the antenna forward a few inches? Since
      antenna radiated power varies inversely with the square of the distance does
      that imply that I could move the antenna 6' - 8" closer to the transponder
      antenna without a significant problem?
      
      I am just trying to establish what my boundary conditions are with respect to the
      antenna location.
      
      Thanks.
      
      Mark
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495455#495455
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: 
Re: ADS-B Ground Plane Question
Date: 
Mar 28, 2020
      
      
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: ADS-B Ground Plane Question
      From: "markfw" <markwheelermd(at)icloud.com 
      >
      
      Mark,
      
      Mark,
      
      I mounted my uAvionix echoUAT ADS-B antenna on the belly of my RV-6A and 
      just aft of the firewall. It is located less than 30 inches horizontally 
      from the transponder antenna. Works like a charm.
      
      Charlie Brame
      RV-6A, N11CB
      San Antonio
      
      =94=94=94=94=94=94=94=94
      =94=94=94=94=94=94=94=94
      =94=94=94=94=94
      
      I will be mounting a uAvionix echoUAT ADS-B antenna on the belly pan of 
      my cub.
      The vendor says to keep it 1 meter from my transponder antenna, which is 
      mounted
      14" forward of the leading edge of my belly pan.
      
      The pan itself is an isosceles triangle with a 15" base and a length of 
      32". The
      pointy part of the pan is oriented facing aft.
      
      Thus I have to place my Rami blade antenna toward the narrow (aft) part 
      of the
      belly pan to stay 1 meter away from the transponder antenna.
      
      My problem is that at the location that is sufficiently far from the 
      transponder
      antenna the belly pan has narrowed so that it does not provide the 5" 
      diameter
      circular ground plane that is apparently required.
      
      SO (after all that), my question is whether the ground plane is only the 
      part of
      of the belly pan that is immediately adjacent to the antenna, or is it 
      the whole
      belly pan?
      
      A related question is whether I can "cheat" the antenna forward a few 
      inches? Since
      antenna radiated power varies inversely with the square of the distance 
      does
      that imply that I could move the antenna 6' - 8" closer to the 
      transponder
      antenna without a significant problem?
      
      I am just trying to establish what my boundary conditions are with 
      respect to the
      antenna location.
      
      Thanks.
      
      Mark
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495455#495455 
      <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495455#495455>
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: ADS-B Ground Plane Question
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Mar 28, 2020
      
      
      I would cheat, but only 3 or 4 inches.  Move the antenna forward so that the
       two antennas are about 36 inches apart.  The ground plane does not have 
      to be a perfect circle.  If the ground plane extends the correct distance in 3
      
      equally spaced directions (120 degrees), that is good enough.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495457#495457
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"n1dw" <n1deltawhiskey(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: ADS-B Ground Plane Question
Date: 
Mar 28, 2020
      
      Charlie,
      
      
      I recently installed a vertical monopole antenna on the belly of my 
      Glastar (haven=99t had a chance to test it yet).  The instructions 
      for the antenna specifically said NOT to use a circular ground plane 
      (apparently it can set up some interference with the antenna function) 
      and suggested using a rectangular shape to reduce the interference 
      possibility.  The 5=9D dimension is a minimum, twice as large is 
      more effective, but the benefits beyond that diminishes quickly.
      
      
      In your situation, with the antenna very near the apex, the ground plane 
      would probably act more like a foil ground with two foil ribbons both 
      facing forward (essentially along the edges of your triangle. 
      Doesn=99t sound like a good arrangement to me.
      
      
      I used a 10=9D square of .020 aluminum for my ground plane. Could 
      you possibly do the same?  Either mounting the ground plane aft of your 
      triangle, or near the apex if that option is not practical?
      
      
      Doug Windhorn
      
      
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com 
       On Behalf Of Charles 
      Brame
      Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 7:10 AM
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: ADS-B Ground Plane Question
      
      
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: ADS-B Ground Plane Question
      From: "markfw" < <mailto:markwheelermd(at)icloud.com> 
      markwheelermd(at)icloud.com>
      
      Mark,
      
      
      Mark,
      
      
      I mounted my uAvionix echoUAT ADS-B antenna on the belly of my RV-6A and 
      just aft of the firewall. It is located less than 30 inches horizontally 
      from the transponder antenna. Works like a charm.
      
      
      Charlie Brame
      
      RV-6A, N11CB
      
      San Antonio
      
      
      =94=94=94=94=94=94=94=94
      =94=94=94=94=94=94=94=94
      =94=94=94=94=94
      
      
      I will be mounting a uAvionix echoUAT ADS-B antenna on the belly pan of 
      my cub.
      The vendor says to keep it 1 meter from my transponder antenna, which is 
      mounted
      14" forward of the leading edge of my belly pan.
      
      The pan itself is an isosceles triangle with a 15" base and a length of 
      32". The
      pointy part of the pan is oriented facing aft.
      
      Thus I have to place my Rami blade antenna toward the narrow (aft) part 
      of the
      belly pan to stay 1 meter away from the transponder antenna.
      
      My problem is that at the location that is sufficiently far from the 
      transponder
      antenna the belly pan has narrowed so that it does not provide the 5" 
      diameter
      circular ground plane that is apparently required.
      
      SO (after all that), my question is whether the ground plane is only the 
      part of
      of the belly pan that is immediately adjacent to the antenna, or is it 
      the whole
      belly pan?
      
      A related question is whether I can "cheat" the antenna forward a few 
      inches? Since
      antenna radiated power varies inversely with the square of the distance 
      does
      that imply that I could move the antenna 6' - 8" closer to the 
      transponder
      antenna without a significant problem?
      
      I am just trying to establish what my boundary conditions are with 
      respect to the
      antenna location.
      
      Thanks.
      
      Mark
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
       <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495455#495455> 
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495455#495455
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: ADS-B Ground Plane Question
From: 
"markfw" <markwheelermd(at)icloud.com>
Date: 
Mar 28, 2020
      
      
      Thanks everyone for your replies. 
      
      It seems that the consensus is that I need to be far enough forward to have 5"
      of belly pan on each side of the antenna, which for me would be about 32". And,
      for at least one person, that distance worked.
      
      This helps me establish the boundary conditions that I was looking for.
      
      Mark
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495459#495459
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 29, 2020
From: 
Richard Gent <rgent1224(at)aol.com>
Subject: 
Re: Headset repair
      
      Don't mean to but in but I was given this web site when I was looking for a
       mike replacememt. Got the mike real fast.Give them a shout=C2- www.kchea
      dsets.comDick
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
      Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 11:49 am
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Headset repair
      
      At 07:12 PM 3/23/2020, you wrote:
      
      Busting open the mic cartridgereveals this. The tiny mic component has 55DK
      02 stamped on theside.=C2- With o-scope leads across the terminal, I'm no
      t able to getany response by speaking into it.
      
      =C2-=C2- I'd bet that 99.999% of all microphone elements
      =C2-=C2- in common service are of the 'electret' variety.
      =C2-=C2- Easy to make, rugged, can be very small . . . but
      =C2-=C2- this comes with a price.
      
      =C2-=C2- Special attention needs to be paid to smooth
      =C2-=C2- frequency response and minimize distortion. Qualities
      =C2-=C2- of concern for 'high end' mic manufacturers (studio
      =C2-=C2- quality recordings). Many high-end microphones
      =C2-=C2- still exploit legacy technologies to achieve
      =C2-=C2- the desired performance.
      
      =C2-=C2- But the great unwashed, 'communications
      =C2-=C2- grade' microphones will use this technology.
      
      https://tinyurl.com/k59r249
      
      =C2-=C2- These critters need to be biased at something
      =C2-=C2- on the order of 2-4 volts. In aircraft microphones,
      =C2-=C2- getting this bias is no big deal . . . aircraft
      =C2-=C2- audio systems EXPECT a carbon microphone analog,
      =C2-=C2- their design includes a bias network to supply
      =C2-=C2- voltage to the microphone.
      
      =C2-=C2- So your experiment to exercise the microphone
      =C2-=C2- while observing output on a 'scope would
      =C2-=C2- not yield useful information unless you
      =C2-=C2- implement the necessary external bias
      =C2-=C2- supply.
      
       =C2- Bob . . .
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
EdbMails IMAP To Office 365 Migration
From: 
"johnjorge" <johnjorge884(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Mar 31, 2020
      
      
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      and target server
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      Know More: IMAP Migration  (https://www.edbmails.com/pages/imap-migration-tool.html)
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495490#495490
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 31, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Baluns redux
      
      Thread copied from a private exchange:
      
      ====================================================================
      
      >Comments/Questions: Hi fron Dog Brenneman--first of all, I make all the
      >mechanics read your book and i use it quite often. Your book is sooooo good.
      
         Thank you sir! I'm pleased that you've found it
         so useful. Know that the book can also be downloaded
         and stored on a personal device for easy reference:
      
      http://www.aeroelectric.com/Books/Connection/
      
      >Currently, we are doing a total re-wire of a Comanche and one of the items
      >is making a new balun for the "cat's whisker" antenna from RG 400.
      >I have your diagram here and printed out the steps to construct also.
      
         That design is known as the "Pawsey Stub Balun"
         described in detail here
      
      https://tinyurl.com/tm26ktz
      
        I have tested this design with a vector network
        analyzer and found it to perform as advertised.
      
      >I am confused with baluns--I see some designs wherein the center conductor
      >is continuous (just a loop) to the short (26 inch--or 17.7 inch) parallel
      >section to the main feed line and just the braid connects to the two points on
      >the phenolic disc.
      
         Yes . . . the 'aviation balun' . . .
      
      https://tinyurl.com/vrtuk3z
      
         This thing has been repeated in countless locations including
         AC43.13 . . . I (and others) have tested this design on
         a VNA and found it to be completely bogus . . . I can
         find no original source for it's design.
      
      >In your design, the short section braid connects to the center 
      >conductor of the
      >main feed line. I also see some in which the braid tie-together at the end
      >of the short section is grounded to the airframe. I plan to go with 
      >your design
      >but I am always seeking knowledge.
      
         Good on you! There are numerous designs for baluns
         fabricated from coax or sometimes transformers wound
         on high frequency ferrite cores. Of all choices I observe
         the Pawsey Stub to be the simplest as well as being
         verified for effectiveness.
      
      >Thanx for your time---  remember, I am just pilot and mechanic--don't useb
      >ig words--humor intended
      
         We are all limited in many respects . . . limits
         handily mitigated by sharing. Thank you for
         your interest.
      
      
      Bob . . .
      
      
      -----------------------------
      Bob Nuckolls
      AeroElectric Connection
      P.O. Box 130
      Medicine Lodge, KS  67104-0130
      Mobile: 316-209-7528
      Web: http://aeroelectric.com
      ------------------------------
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Mar 31, 2020
      
      
      Greetings;
      
      I'm applying the wisdom gleaned from The Aeroelectric Connection and request feedback.
      
      The Aircraft:
      -A basic VFR Bearhawk Patrol, which is a Aviat Husky/Super cub type of aircraft
      
      -Dual Surefly Electronic Ignition modules to replace Magnetos.
      
      Electrical system Goal: 
      -Simple reliability, 
      -Power Dual Electronic Ignition, plus simple stuff like a comm radio, transponder,
      a fuel pump, LED NAV lights and a few other things.
      
      The Z11 digram titled Generic Light Aircraft Electrical System is my favorite.
      
      But the Dual Electronic Ignition needs are special.  I called Surefly and they
      agreed that prudence demands I install a dedicated battery for each ignition module.
      
      
      Further guidance from the Ignition Supplier
      -Use a hefty diode to the Aux Batt to reliably protect it from back feeding
      -Monitor the Voltage to the Aux Batt.
      -Size of Aux Battery can be small, just so its duration exceeds the fuel duration.
      8 amp hour?
      
      Some here might be interested in electrical needs of a single ignition module.
      -Required Voltage = 8-30V
      -Amp draw = 0.7A +/- 0.2A at 2700 RPM
      -Permanently connect Power to the + Batt terminal OR the Master Solenoid battery
      + input.
      -Use 14AWG and a 10A fuse or CB.
      -When the Ignition is placed in Standby mode (turned off) by grounding the P-lead,
      it draws less than 1ma.
      
      So, I'm proposing a Z11 system with one ignition wired directly to a normal size
      Main Battery, and the second ignition wired directly to a small single purpose
      Aux Battery.
      
      Although Bobs Book has a Dual Batt diagram,  In the spirit of simplicity I didn't
      use a solenoid for the Aux Battery, I protect the aux battery with a diode,
      and I will monitor the voltage of the Aux battery.
      
      What are your thoughts?
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495508#495508
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0518_119.jpg
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/screen_shot_2020_03_31_at_41808_pm_464.png
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual  Electron
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Mar 31, 2020
      
      
      On 3/31/2020 6:27 PM, bcone1381 wrote:
      >
      > Greetings;
      >
      > I'm applying the wisdom gleaned from The Aeroelectric Connection and request
      feedback.
      >
      > The Aircraft:
      > -A basic VFR Bearhawk Patrol, which is a Aviat Husky/Super cub type of aircraft
      > -Dual Surefly Electronic Ignition modules to replace Magnetos.
      >
      > Electrical system Goal:
      > -Simple reliability,
      > -Power Dual Electronic Ignition, plus simple stuff like a comm radio, transponder,
      a fuel pump, LED NAV lights and a few other things.
      >
      > The Z11 digram titled Generic Light Aircraft Electrical System is my favorite.
      > But the Dual Electronic Ignition needs are special.  I called Surefly and they
      agreed that prudence demands I install a dedicated battery for each ignition
      module.
      >
      > Further guidance from the Ignition Supplier
      > -Use a hefty diode to the Aux Batt to reliably protect it from back feeding
      > -Monitor the Voltage to the Aux Batt.
      > -Size of Aux Battery can be small, just so its duration exceeds the fuel duration.
      8 amp hour?
      >
      > Some here might be interested in electrical needs of a single ignition module.
      > -Required Voltage = 8-30V
      > -Amp draw = 0.7A +/- 0.2A at 2700 RPM
      > -Permanently connect Power to the + Batt terminal OR the Master Solenoid battery
      + input.
      > -Use 14AWG and a 10A fuse or CB.
      > -When the Ignition is placed in Standby mode (turned off) by grounding the P-lead,
      it draws less than 1ma.
      >
      > So, I'm proposing a Z11 system with one ignition wired directly to a normal size
      Main Battery, and the second ignition wired directly to a small single purpose
      Aux Battery.
      >
      > Although Bobs Book has a Dual Batt diagram,  In the spirit of simplicity I didn't
      use a solenoid for the Aux Battery, I protect the aux battery with a diode,
      and I will monitor the voltage of the Aux battery.
      >
      > What are your thoughts?
      >
      > --------
      > Brooks Cone
      > Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495508#495508
      >
      >
      > Attachments:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0518_119.jpg
      > http://forums.matronics.com//files/screen_shot_2020_03_31_at_41808_pm_464.png
      Hi Brooks, welcome aboard.
      
      looking at the 1st drawing:
      B lead protection should be at the other end (at the solenoid terminal) 
      to protect the wire from the battery. The B lead should be sized large 
      enough that the alt can't hurt it.
      
      As drawn, the ESS bus is always hot (directly tied to the main battery).
      
      As drawn, the aux battery and L ign are always hot (tied to battery 
      through the diode).
      
      As drawn, the R ign is always hot (directly tied to the main battery).
      
      I don't fly enough to trust that the ignitions wouldn't run the 
      batteries down while the plane sits idle. Might not be a factor for you. 
      I'd also want positive control over the ignitions; I suppose that 
      pullable CBs would accomplish that.
      
      Hope the above is helpful.
      
      Congrats on the Patrol; Bearhawk does nice airplanes.
      
      Charlie
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Mar 31, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with   Dual  Electron
      
      At 08:52 PM 3/31/2020, you wrote:
      
      >>The Z11 digram titled =C3=A2=9CGeneric Light 
      >>Aircraft Electrical System=C3=A2=C2=9D is my favorite.
      >e.
      >>But the Dual Electronic Ignition needs are 
      >>special.  I called Surefly and they
      >>agreed that prudence demands I install a 
      >>dedicated battery for each ignition module.
      
         Absolutely not recommended. All due respect to
         Surefly, they are not systems integrators nor
         should they attempt to become so without adding
         a butt-load of tribal knowledge in the aircraft
         arts. They have reason to worry, 'deprive our
         pride and joy product(s) of energy and your
         engine stops'. It is sufficient to make that
         assertion and leave it at that.
      
         Your task then is to PROVIDE failure-tolerant
         power sources to critical equipment such that
         no single failure puts the airframe (and by
         extension it's occupants) at risk.
      
      >>Further guidance from the Ignition Supplier
      >>-Use a hefty diode to the Aux Batt to reliably protect it from back
       feeding
      >>-Monitor the Voltage to the Aux Batt.
      >>-Size of Aux Battery can be small, just so its 
      >>duration exceeds the fuel duration. 8 amp hour?
      >>
      >>Some here might be interested in electrical 
      >>needs of a single ignition module.
      >>-Required Voltage = 8-30V
      >>-Amp draw = 0.7A +/- 0.2A at 2700 RPM
      >>-Permanently connect Power to the + Batt 
      >>terminal OR the Master Solenoid battery + input.
      >>-Use 14AWG and a 10A fuse or CB.
      >>-When the Ignition is placed in Standby mode 
      >>(turned off) by grounding the P-lead, it draws less than 1ma.
      
         Good data . . . EXACTLY what is their DUTY
         to supply such that good decisions can be
         made by the systems integration individual
         (or team) to provide an FMEA friendly
         architecture and operating philosophy
         that (1) minimizes risk and (2) minimizes
         cost of ownership. Adding backup batteries
         NEVER reduces cost. Further, if a backup
         battery is really necessary, then there's
         strong probability that something is
         seriously wrong with the basic architecture.
      
         The premise behind this idea is that airplanes
         have a family of devices presenting various levels
         of criticality for comfortable termination
         of flight. So you have dual electronic
         ignition? Fine . . . are you comfortable
         launching into the blue not having offered
         the rest of your electro-whizzies the same
         courtesies as your ignition systems? If not,
         the does it not stand to reason that if
         the rest of your 'critical' systems are
         happy, so too will be your ignition systems?
      
         The optimal answer is 'fix the architecture'
         and leave the batteries on the dealer's shelves.
      
      >>So, I'm proposing a Z11 system with one 
      >>ignition wired directly to a normal size Main 
      >>Battery, and the second ignition wired directly 
      >>to a small single purpose Aux Battery.
      >>
      >>Although Bob=C3=A2=99s Book has a Dual Batt 
      >>diagram,  In the spirit of simplicity I didn't 
      >>use a solenoid for the Aux Battery, I protect 
      >>the aux battery with a diode, and I will 
      >>monitor the voltage of the Aux battery.
      >.
      >>
      >>What are your thoughts?
      
         Have you considered the fledgling architecture posted
         here on the list a few weeks back . . . See
      
      https://tinyurl.com/qnzenca
      
         Here we've shown an 'engine bus' that enjoys
         dual feedpaths such that no single failure
         of power generation/storage sources will
         bring down that bus.
      
         If that assertion is in error, let's deduce
         root cause and fix it. I'm not suggesting
         that a 'standby battery' would never be
         the elegant mitigation of an identified
         failure mode . . . but that is the key
         word . . . IDENTIFIED.
      
         Perhaps it is your project that offers a
         pathway to illuminating a condition that
         begs 'fixing'.
      
         There's a particular project manager at
         Hawker-Beech who still figures in my
         dreams wherein I can see him peering at
         me over his reading glasses and asserting:
         "Nuckolls, CONVINCE me that this system's
         certification fortunes hinge on the addition
         of a (stick your favorite band-aid in here)."
      
         Let's do our homework and see if we can
         figure out how to make your project fly
         comfortably on one, judiciously maintained
         battery . . . just has hundreds of thousands
         of airplanes have flown for over a century.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
DC DC Battery Charger
From: 
"mullokintyre" <mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: 
Mar 31, 2020
      
      
      I have been building up my 4WD Tow vehicle with  auxilliary batteries, solar panels
      etc, and was wondering if its viable to transfer some of my new found experience
      to my experimental aircraft .
      I have a dual Electronic Ignition  dual battery setup with a B&C 60 amp alternator,
      plus a backup sd08 alternator.
      Plenty of redundancy. However, although the 60 amp alternator is more than adequate
      to keep the main battery charged, The sd08 does not keep up with the discharging
      of the auxilliary battery.
      I was thinking about putting in a DC DC charger from the main battery to the ausxilliary.
      Something like https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0022/5640/4547/files/OzCharge_Manual_OC-DC1215_V1.2.pdf?2151
      Am I being optimistic/foolish??
      
      Mick
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495513#495513
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      
      Move the E-Bus switch so that it is between the battery and E-Bus like Bob 
      designed it.  Better yet, have the switch control a relay so that power can be
      
      shut off close to the source (battery).
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495515#495515
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      
      ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote:
      > On 3/31/2020 6:27 PM, bcone1381 wrote:
      > 
      > >  
      > > 
      > >  Greetings;
      > > 
      > >  I'm applying the wisdom gleaned from The Aeroelectric Connection and request
      feedback.
      > > 
      > >  The Aircraft:
      > >  -A basic VFR Bearhawk Patrol, which is a Aviat Husky/Super cub type of aircraft
      > >  -Dual Surefly Electronic Ignition modules to replace Magnetos.
      > > 
      > >  Electrical system Goal:
      > >  -Simple reliability,
      > >  -Power Dual Electronic Ignition, plus simple stuff like a comm radio, transponder,
      a fuel pump, LED NAV lights and a few other things.
      > > 
      > >  The Z11 digram titled Generic Light Aircraft Electrical System is my favorite.
      > >  But the Dual Electronic Ignition needs are special.  I called Surefly and
      they agreed that prudence demands I install a dedicated battery for each ignition
      module.
      > > 
      > >  Further guidance from the Ignition Supplier
      > >  -Use a hefty diode to the Aux Batt to reliably protect it from back feeding
      > >  -Monitor the Voltage to the Aux Batt.
      > >  -Size of Aux Battery can be small, just so its duration exceeds the fuel duration.
      8 amp hour?
      > > 
      > >  Some here might be interested in electrical needs of a single ignition module.
      > >  -Required Voltage = 8-30V
      > >  -Amp draw = 0.7A +/- 0.2A at 2700 RPM
      > >  -Permanently connect Power to the + Batt terminal OR the Master Solenoid battery
      + input.
      > >  -Use 14AWG and a 10A fuse or CB.
      > >  -When the Ignition is placed in Standby mode (turned off) by grounding the
      P-lead, it draws less than 1ma.
      > > 
      > >  So, I'm proposing a Z11 system with one ignition wired directly to a normal
      size Main Battery, and the second ignition wired directly to a small single
      purpose Aux Battery.
      > > 
      > >  Although Bobs Book has a Dual Batt diagram,  In the spirit of simplicity I
      didn't use a solenoid for the Aux Battery, I protect the aux battery with a diode,
      and I will monitor the voltage of the Aux battery.
      > > 
      > >  What are your thoughts?
      > > 
      > >  --------
      > >  Brooks Cone
      > >  Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > >  Read this topic online here:
      > > 
      > >  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495508#495508
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > 
      > >  Attachments:
      > > 
      > >  http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0518_119.jpg
      > >  http://forums.matronics.com//files/screen_shot_2020_03_31_at_41808_pm_464.png
      > > Hi Brooks, welcome aboard.
      > > 
      > 
      > 
      > looking at the 1st drawing:
      > B lead protection should be at the other end (at the solenoid terminal) 
      > to protect the wire from the battery. The B lead should be sized large 
      > enough that the alt can't hurt it.
      > 
      > As drawn, the ESS bus is always hot (directly tied to the main battery).
      > 
      > As drawn, the aux battery and L ign are always hot (tied to battery 
      > through the diode).
      > 
      > As drawn, the R ign is always hot (directly tied to the main battery).
      > 
      > I don't fly enough to trust that the ignitions wouldn't run the 
      > batteries down while the plane sits idle. Might not be a factor for you. 
      > I'd also want positive control over the ignitions; I suppose that 
      > pullable CBs would accomplish that.
      > 
      > Hope the above is helpful.
      > 
      > Congrats on the Patrol; Bearhawk does nice airplanes.
      > 
      > Charlie
      > 
      > -- 
      > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
      __________
      Thanks Charlie; 
      
      B lead protection....Got it.  I moved the current limiter to the solenoid end.
      
      
      Essential Bus always hot...My error on the not installing a switch from the main
      battery to the Essential Bus. The Essential bus will draw less than 5A so I
      chose a switch over a solenoid. 
      
      The Ignitions are powered all the time. They are controlled by grounding the P-lead.
      When "off" (in standby mode) they will draw about 1 miliamp. You dont control
      them with a traditional power switch.  They will draw down a battery over
      time so a battery maintainer is prudent.
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495518#495518
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Some thoughts on 'standby' batteries
      
      
      Batteries have been an essential component
      of aircraft electrical systems from day-one.
      The first airborne electrics were battery powered
      by devices recharged after every flight given
      that engine driven power sources were not
      yet prominent fixtures. Indeed, wind-driven
      generators were more prevalent (read low power
      and DRAG!).
      
      Batteries were 'wet', produced fumes when
      charged. dribbled acid over themselves and
      the airplane and had relatively short service
      lives. I.e. they were a commodity like tires,
      oil and gasoline. Their reliability as a
      power source depended on constant monitoring
      of condition.
      
      While secondary (rechargeable) batteries have
      become much more efficient, environmentally
      friendly, more per pound and cubic foot, they
      are still a commodity. You cannot install
      a battery into any function expecting it to
      perform as needed for more than a tiny fraction
      of the airframe service life. Further, if loss
      of a battery-supported system adversely impacts
      probability for comfortable termination of
      flight like fuel and oil . . . the battery's
      condition demands reliable monitoring of
      condition for continued airworthiness.
      
      This is a burden on cost of ownership. It
      expands the operator's work load for periodic
      and capable preventative maintenance peppered
      with the expense of replacement on condition.
      
      Design goals for elegant electrical systems
      architecture includes minimizing the need
      for batteries in both number, size and expense.
      The ultimate achievement for reduction of
      batteries might be (1) a battery capable
      of but one start cycle and (2) sufficient
      capacity to operate landing lights during
      the last 60 seconds of a dead-stick landing
      at night.
      
      THAT battery might indeed be quite small and
      its cost of ownership very nominal. It might
      even be cheap enough to simply replace it at
      every annual . . . or perhaps every 100 hours
      just as you might change the oil. Thus you've
      eliminate the need for time, effort and test
      equipment necessary to conduct preventative
      maintenance on ship's battery(ies).
      
      This line of reasoning sets the design goals
      for an electrical system tailored to a project's
      engine, airframe, capabilities and planned
      missions. One goal is to minimize singling
      out any particular set of loads as critical
      but to consider the machine, pilot and
      flight environment as a system.
      
      Over the past 30 years, a family of architectures
      have been proposed, refined, published and
      applied to projects in the OBAM aviation
      community. Some have served the builder's
      design goals well . . . others not so well.
      It's an iterative evolutionary process that
      strives for demonstrable success.
      
      The proposed Z01 architecture takes into account
      the pronounced shift in aircraft designs that
      incorporate multiple engine driven power sources,
      electrically dependent engines and yes . . .
      a desire to shed as much of the battery weight
      and cost of ownership as practical.
      
      Discussions here on the List and elsewhere
      are needed to ferret out any failure to meet
      a design goal . . . not as SUPPLIERS of any
      particular electro-whizzy but as USERS
      of those devices as components of the whole
      FLIGHT SYSTEM.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      
      > Your task then is to PROVIDE failure-tolerant 
      > power sources to critical equipment such that 
      > no single failure puts the airframe (and by 
      > extension it's occupants) at risk. 
      > 
      > .....The premise behind this idea is that airplanes 
      > have a family of devices presenting various levels 
      > of criticality for comfortable termination 
      > of flight. So you have dual electronic 
      > ignition? Fine . . . are you comfortable 
      > launching into the blue not having offered 
      > the rest of your electro-whizzies the same 
      > courtesies as your ignition systems? If not, 
      > the does it not stand to reason that if 
      > the rest of your 'critical' systems are 
      > happy, so too will be your ignition systems? 
      > 
      > The optimal answer is 'fix the architecture' 
      > and leave the batteries on the dealer's shelves. 
      
      
      The Ignition is the critical item. I am comfortable loosing power to all the electronics
      other than the ignition, therefore the electrical system architecture
      is being designed to accommodate it.  
      
      
      > Have you considered the fledgling architecture posted 
      > here on the list a few weeks back . . . See 
      > 
      > https://tinyurl.com/qnzenca 
      > 
      
      
      Kind of......I considered the diagram but not the architecture.  Dual alternators,
      brownout bus, it seemed complex for my application.  My perception is electrical
      demands for EFI are large compared with my choice of ignition at 1.4A total.
      Since both ignitions tied to a single battery was not failure tolerant ,
      the SureFly small second battery (12V 8Ahr is $50) seemed simple. 
      
      
      > Let's do our homework and see if we can 
      > figure out how to make your project fly 
      > comfortably on one, judiciously maintained 
      > battery . . . just has hundreds of thousands 
      > of airplanes have flown for over a century. 
      > 
      
      
      So lets reconsider that as archetecure and see what we come up with.
      
      I have integrated the Architecture into my diagram, and removed the Aux Battery.
      The load on the Engine bus will be less than 5A so I will use a switch instead
      of a solenoid.  I removed the Battery Bus to avoid a human error that might
      deplete the battery out in the bush.
      
      If the power supply from the ALT side of the master solenoid fails, the engine
      dies until the switch is flipped by reliable human action.  Not ideal.  A diode
      to replace the switch eliminates human failure. 
      
      The next step I see is to remove the engine bus, bolt both power wires to the Battery
      side of the master solenoid.  Now I am chasing my tail back to where I
      was.   But lets say I did that.  If the Solenoid fails open, then the engine is
      battery powered while the rest of the ship is powered by the alternator.  
      
      I think you already discussed months ago, but it looks to me like the Engine Bus
      duplicates the Essential bus.
      
      How am I doing?
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495525#495525
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0521_264.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system"   with Dual
      Electron
      
      
      >
      >
      >The Ignition is the critical item. I am comfortable loosing power to 
      >all the electronics other than the ignition, therefore the 
      >electrical system architecture is being designed to accommodate it.
      >
      
         Why settle for that . . . and the expenses associated
         with it? When it might be easy to keep the whole
         panel lit up?
      
      
      >Kind of......I considered the diagram but not the 
      >architecture.  Dual alternators, brownout bus, it seemed complex for 
      >my application.  My perception is electrical demands for EFI are 
      >large compared with my choice of ignition at 1.4A total. Since both 
      >ignitions tied to a single battery was not failure tolerant , the 
      >SureFly small second battery (12V 8Ahr is $50) seemed simple.
         Do you have room for a second alternator? The
         brownout bus is optional dependent on equipment
         installed. So is the battery bus. Remember, these
         are architecture drawings with features that
         address specific needs . . . if the need doesn't
         exist, the feature is deleted.
      
         The second alternator could be as small/light as
         an SD8 . . . have you conducted a load analysis?
         Do you KNOW what loads are supported under your
         anticipated flight conditions?
      
      >So lets reconsider that as archetecure and see what we come up with.
      >
      >I have integrated the Architecture into my diagram, and removed the 
      >Aux Battery.  The load on the Engine bus will be less than 5A so I 
      >will use a switch instead of a solenoid.
      
         powered from what source? How long is the feeder from
         that source to the switch?
      
      >   I removed the Battery Bus to avoid a human error that might 
      > deplete the battery out in the bush.
      
         What accessories are on your airplane that would
         benefit from a battery bus? If none, then no
         bus necessary.
      
      
      >If the power supply from the ALT side of the master solenoid fails, the
      >engine dies until the switch is flipped by reliable human action.
      >Not ideal.  A diode to replace the switch eliminates human failure.
      
         Then there's something wrong with the architecture . . .
         one failure shuts off BOTH ignitions?
      
         How so? Are you talking about the alternator?
         The battery supports ALL loads in the event of
         alternator failure.
      
      >The next step I see is to remove the engine bus, bolt both power 
      >wires to the Battery side of the master solenoid.  Now I am chasing 
      >my tail back to where I was.   But lets say I did that.  If the 
      >Solenoid fails open, then the engine is battery powered while the 
      >rest of the ship is powered by the alternator.
      
         Contactors just don't do that in flight. Wiring
         that controls contactors might . . . a bad crimp
         turns loose of a wire. But that's a craftsmanship
         issue. If we're going to craft firewalls for
         craftsmanship . . . well . . .  you can see where
         that leads. But let's assume that your contactor
         opens in flight for any reason. How would you
         become aware of it?
      
      >I think you already discussed months ago, but it looks to me like 
      >the Engine Bus duplicates the Essential bus.
      
         The 'essential' bus was originally crafted to
         quickly minimize loads during alternator-out
         operations and later (Z13/8) operations
         with an itty-bitty standby alternator i.e.
         and ENDURANCE bus.
      
         Later it kinda morphed into a bus for
         brownout sensitive loads whether or not
         the endurance feature was needed.
      
         Now it has a big brother intended to
         support electrically dependent engines
         every need including fuel management,
         fuel injection, ignition and (if needed)
         engine management instrumentation.
      
         Do you have any electro-whizzies that
         address engine ops over and above
         the ignition system(s)? How is this
         airplane to be used? Night ops? Extended
         cross-country over unfriendly terrain?
         IFR?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      
      Why put a switch in series with the E-Bus diode?
      I suggest that switch be eliminated.  If it is not installed, it can not fail.
      -
      I suggest that a double pole switch be used for the engine bus switch.
      The second half of that switch can enable the engine start circuit.  
      Properly wired, the engine bus switch must be on in order to start the engine.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495528#495528
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual 
      Electron
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      
      On 4/1/2020 11:20 AM, bcone1381 wrote:
      >
      >
      >> Your task then is to PROVIDE failure-tolerant
      >> power sources to critical equipment such that
      >> no single failure puts the airframe (and by
      >> extension it's occupants) at risk.
      >>
      >> .....The premise behind this idea is that airplanes
      >> have a family of devices presenting various levels
      >> of criticality for comfortable termination
      >> of flight. So you have dual electronic
      >> ignition? Fine . . . are you comfortable
      >> launching into the blue not having offered
      >> the rest of your electro-whizzies the same
      >> courtesies as your ignition systems? If not,
      >> the does it not stand to reason that if
      >> the rest of your 'critical' systems are
      >> happy, so too will be your ignition systems?
      >>
      >> The optimal answer is 'fix the architecture'
      >> and leave the batteries on the dealer's shelves.
      >
      > The Ignition is the critical item. I am comfortable loosing power to all the
      electronics other than the ignition, therefore the electrical system architecture
      is being designed to accommodate it.
      >
      >
      >> Have you considered the fledgling architecture posted
      >> here on the list a few weeks back . . . See
      >>
      >> https://tinyurl.com/qnzenca
      >>
      >
      > Kind of......I considered the diagram but not the architecture.  Dual alternators,
      brownout bus, it seemed complex for my application.  My perception is electrical
      demands for EFI are large compared with my choice of ignition at 1.4A
      total. Since both ignitions tied to a single battery was not failure tolerant
      , the SureFly small second battery (12V 8Ahr is $50) seemed simple.
      >
      >
      >> Let's do our homework and see if we can
      >> figure out how to make your project fly
      >> comfortably on one, judiciously maintained
      >> battery . . . just has hundreds of thousands
      >> of airplanes have flown for over a century.
      >>
      >
      > So lets reconsider that as archetecure and see what we come up with.
      >
      > I have integrated the Architecture into my diagram, and removed the Aux Battery.
      The load on the Engine bus will be less than 5A so I will use a switch instead
      of a solenoid.  I removed the Battery Bus to avoid a human error that might
      deplete the battery out in the bush.
      >
      > If the power supply from the ALT side of the master solenoid fails, the engine
      dies until the switch is flipped by reliable human action.  Not ideal.  A diode
      to replace the switch eliminates human failure.
      >
      > The next step I see is to remove the engine bus, bolt both power wires to the
      Battery side of the master solenoid.  Now I am chasing my tail back to where
      I was.   But lets say I did that.  If the Solenoid fails open, then the engine
      is battery powered while the rest of the ship is powered by the alternator.
      >
      > I think you already discussed months ago, but it looks to me like the Engine
      Bus duplicates the Essential bus.
      >
      > How am I doing?
      >
      > --------
      > Brooks Cone
      > Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      I certainly lack Bob's knowledge and experience, but for a minimalist 
      system, I like it. You could lose the switch between the main bus diode 
      and the Ess bus; the Ess bus would normally be fed from the main bus and 
      have 'required' avionics. If the alt fails, you'd close the switch 
      that's direct from the bat and open the master.
      
      To avoid the issue of the master taking out both ignitions, I'd operate 
      with both the mstr and the engine bus direct feed switch closed (no harm 
      in feeding the eng bus from both ends at the same time). I'd keep the 
      Eng bus diode because I like redundant paths to critical stuff.
      
      To address the backup alternator issue that Bob raised: My installation 
      uses auto style injection which requires a high pressure fuel pump (high 
      current demand) so I chose to use two full size alts. But if you're 
      running a carb and your electrical demands are quite low, I can 
      understand not adding a 2nd alt, from both financial and weight 
      standpoints. In my situation, with around 12A minimum needed to keep the 
      engine running, battery capacity to operate to fuel exhaustion (my 
      personal choice) would have weighed *much* more than an additional 8 lb 
      alternator, and would have cost more than my off-the-shelf auto 
      alternator, as well. But your low-demand system likely means that a 
      standard PC680 style battery could run to fuel exhaustion. (Caution: do 
      your load analysis, backed up by actual testing, and be sure you 
      understand the various demand/time curves for PC680 type batteries.)
      
      Charlie
      
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Foghorn Inc <foghorn757(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual 
      Electron
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      Here is the electrical diagram I=99m using for my aircraft. Dual 
      SDS EFI, single battery and dual alternators. This architecture is 
      Z12/13 modified and was originally drawn up by John Bright, we=99ve 
      been working together to improve it (in our opinion). This is version 4 
      and I=99m still making minor tweaks.
      
      Since you have dual electronic ignition I would recommend either dual 
      batteries/single ALT or dual alternators/single battery. The SD8 that 
      Bob mentioned a few emails back is a great idea for a VFR bush plane. 
      Because even your VFR only Bearhawk is going to fly over inhospitable 
      terrain from time to time. 
      
      I know, I knowusing a VP-X is blasphemy. It came with the kit I 
      purchased from a friend.
      
      
      PS..the Bearhawk Patrol is probably my next aircraft build.
      
      Jeff Parker
      
      
      > On 1Apr, 2020, at 13:39, user9253  wrote:
      > 
      
      > 
      > Why put a switch in series with the E-Bus diode?
      > I suggest that switch be eliminated.  If it is not installed, it can 
      not fail.
      > -
      > I suggest that a double pole switch be used for the engine bus switch.
      > The second half of that switch can enable the engine start circuit.  
      
      > Properly wired, the engine bus switch must be on in order to start the 
      engine.
      > 
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495528#495528
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Peter Pengilly" <Peter(at)sportingaero.com>
Subject: 
Some thoughts on 'standby' batteries
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      
      Hi Bob,
      
      My last job working for a large blue chip company was part of the design
      team for a nuclear submarine. As you can imagine some of the failure
      scenarios in the risk register had some fairly catastrophic consequences. As
      a result many sub-system owners sought to increase the reliability of their
      functions by designing in back-up power supplies. As there was no overall
      systems engineering lead (a failure of engineering management as much as
      anything else) no-one had the required oversight to spot what was happening.
      Before very long there were batteries for everything, with a huge
      maintenance overhead (and their own failure scenarios). What was really
      required was an electrical power policy at the ship level flowed down to
      each sub-system, rather than the sub-systems driving what the ship was
      doing. Eventually the high paid help realised what was happening and set in
      place a painful (expensive, $$ and time) re-design that ended up having
      quite far reaching impacts.
      
      This has a direct parallel to OBAM aircraft. Many of the electro-whizzes on
      offer include a back-up battery of some description. As the system design
      authority for our own aircraft we have to be sufficiently smart to engineer
      in power sources that meet our reliability goals, and not to be dictated to
      by sub-system suppliers. That doesn't say back-up batteries in sub-systems
      are necessarily bad, just that they have to earn they way onto the aircraft.
      As ever the operational goals of the aircraft should dictate the systems
      design and equipment selection.
      
      Regards, Peter
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
       On Behalf Of Robert L.
      Nuckolls, III
      Sent: 01 April 2020 16:57
      Subject: AeroElectric-List: Some thoughts on 'standby' batteries
      
      --> 
      
      Batteries have been an essential component of aircraft electrical systems
      from day-one.
      The first airborne electrics were battery powered by devices recharged after
      every flight given that engine driven power sources were not yet prominent
      fixtures. Indeed, wind-driven generators were more prevalent (read low power
      and DRAG!).
      
      Batteries were 'wet', produced fumes when charged. dribbled acid over
      themselves and the airplane and had relatively short service lives. I.e.
      they were a commodity like tires, oil and gasoline. Their reliability as a
      power source depended on constant monitoring of condition.
      
      While secondary (rechargeable) batteries have become much more efficient,
      environmentally friendly, more per pound and cubic foot, they are still a
      commodity. You cannot install a battery into any function expecting it to
      perform as needed for more than a tiny fraction of the airframe service
      life. Further, if loss of a battery-supported system adversely impacts
      probability for comfortable termination of flight like fuel and oil . . .
      the battery's condition demands reliable monitoring of condition for
      continued airworthiness.
      
      This is a burden on cost of ownership. It expands the operator's work load
      for periodic and capable preventative maintenance peppered with the expense
      of replacement on condition.
      
      Design goals for elegant electrical systems architecture includes minimizing
      the need for batteries in both number, size and expense.
      The ultimate achievement for reduction of batteries might be (1) a battery
      capable of but one start cycle and (2) sufficient capacity to operate
      landing lights during the last 60 seconds of a dead-stick landing at night.
      
      THAT battery might indeed be quite small and its cost of ownership very
      nominal. It might even be cheap enough to simply replace it at every annual
      . . . or perhaps every 100 hours just as you might change the oil. Thus
      you've eliminate the need for time, effort and test equipment necessary to
      conduct preventative maintenance on ship's battery(ies).
      
      This line of reasoning sets the design goals for an electrical system
      tailored to a project's engine, airframe, capabilities and planned missions.
      One goal is to minimize singling out any particular set of loads as critical
      but to consider the machine, pilot and flight environment as a system.
      
      Over the past 30 years, a family of architectures have been proposed,
      refined, published and applied to projects in the OBAM aviation community.
      Some have served the builder's design goals well . . . others not so well.
      It's an iterative evolutionary process that strives for demonstrable
      success.
      
      The proposed Z01 architecture takes into account the pronounced shift in
      aircraft designs that incorporate multiple engine driven power sources,
      electrically dependent engines and yes . . .
      a desire to shed as much of the battery weight and cost of ownership as
      practical.
      
      Discussions here on the List and elsewhere are needed to ferret out any
      failure to meet a design goal . . . not as SUPPLIERS of any particular
      electro-whizzy but as USERS of those devices as components of the whole
      FLIGHT SYSTEM.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 01, 2020
      
      
      Bob, In figure Z-01, Should the brownout bus fuse be increased in size from 10
      amps to 30 amps?
      Since that fuse is in series with other fuses, we wouldn't want a short circuit
      to blow two fuses.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495534#495534
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 02, 2020
      
      
      > Why settle for that . . . and the expenses associated 
      > with it? When it might be easy to keep the whole 
      > panel lit up?
      
      
      Simplicity was why I would settle for it.  You say "Easy to keep it all lit up."
      A battery seemed simple and easy.  I just read your "Thoughts on Standby Batteries."
      
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=16775265 
      
      
      > 
      > Do you have room for a second alternator? The 
      > brownout bus is optional dependent on equipment 
      > installed. So is the battery bus. Remember, these 
      > are architecture drawings with features that 
      > address specific needs . . . if the need doesn't 
      > exist, the feature is deleted. 
      > 
      > The second alternator could be as small/light as 
      > an SD8 . . . have you conducted a load analysis? 
      > Do you KNOW what loads are supported under your 
      > anticipated flight conditions? 
      
      
      I am familiar with the SD8.  It is the standby alternator of choice if thats the
      way I need to go.  I have room for it.
      
      Load Analysis.  
      Normal Continuous load is 6.57A. 
      Normal Intermittent load is 2.5A for a single standby fuel pump. 
      Essential "Battery only" load requirements is 2.74A
      
      
      The next quote regards the Alternate Engine Bus Switch
      
      > powered from what source? How long is the feeder from 
      > that source to the switch? 
      > 
      
      The Engine Bus Alternate Power switch I proposed is powered from the battery side
      of the master solenoid, and would carry a max normal load of 1.8A.  It would
      be 24 inches from the solenoid, and 24 from the Engine Bus.  
      [quote]
      
      
      > The battery supports ALL loads in the event of 
      > alternator failure. 
      
      I agree.  I was wrong.
      
      > Do you have any electro-whizzies that 
      > address engine ops over and above 
      > the ignition system(s)? How is this 
      > airplane to be used? Night ops? Extended 
      > cross-country over unfriendly terrain? 
      > IFR? 
      
      
      Engine Electro-Whizzes.....The engine is a Lycoming IO-360 fuel injected using
      mechanical Bendix RSA fuel injection and Mechanical Fuel Pump.  The FI requires
      no electrical power for normal operation.  It has a single backup electric fuel
      pump that is normally off.   An Engine Monitoring System supplies all my engine
      instrumentation. There are no other engine related electro-whizzes.
      
      The mission is DAY VFR.  The mission also includes Cross Country over unfriendly
      terrain.
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495543#495543
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 02, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Some thoughts on 'standby' batteries
      
      At 04:55 PM 4/1/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >Hi Bob,
      >
      
         
      
      >Before very long there were batteries for everything, with a huge
      >maintenance overhead (and their own failure scenarios). What was really
      >required was an electrical power policy at the ship level flowed down to
      >each sub-system, rather than the sub-systems driving what the ship was
      >doing. Eventually the high paid help realised what was happening and set in
      >place a painful (expensive, $$ and time) re-design that ended up having
      >quite far reaching impacts.
      
          Yup . . . a story repeated countless times
          when legacy systems are burdened with new
          requirements for reliability. I try to avoid
          that condition for our readers by striving
          for architectures that are unlikely to come
          up short in the future.
      
      
         
      
      >As ever the operational goals of the aircraft should dictate the systems
      >design and equipment selection.
      
          Absolutely . . .
      
          Which is why I encourage attention (1) making
          every bus 'reliable' and/or (2) not driving
          an 'essential' accessory from a minimally
          reliable source.
      
          The OBAM aviation supplier cannot
          know the technical acumen of every customer
          which no doubt drives their decisions/suggestions for
          adding batteries. Klaus advocated for
          an auxiliary battery to support his LightSpeed
          ignition products. The N811HB accident
          carried LightSpeed ignition installed contrary
          to both Klaus's -AND- AeroElectric recommendations.
          He was a defendant in the original filing
          of lawsuits but ultimately joined my client
          as plaintiff as the technical details of
          the case unfolded.
      
          I've often recommended that builders 'follow
          the manufacturer's instructions' when the
          conversation ponders departure from the
          printed instructions. So I'll have to
          be mindful of that 'rule' when encouraging
          our readers to do their homework such that
          departures from instruction are supported
          by good science and tribal knowledge.
      
          Thank you for your enduring participation
          on the List!
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 02, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system"   with Dual
      Electron
      
      At 06:09 PM 4/1/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >Bob, In figure Z-01, Should the brownout bus fuse be increased in 
      >size from 10 amps to 30 amps?
      >Since that fuse is in series with other fuses, we wouldn't want a 
      >short circuit to blow two fuses.
      
          Good observation . . . fuses, wire sizes and bus
          loads are evolving . . .
      
          Speaking of evolution, I'm still wrestling with the
          notion of driving the crowbar ov breaker bus extension
          through a ATC fuse on the fuseblock. I cannot guarantee
          that every future builder would use a breaker having
          I(squared)t characteristics small enough to avoid
          popping that fuse.
      
          The fusible link is still the stone simple, most
          convenient way to bring power from the fuseblock
          terminal to the circuit breaker. I'm researching
          sources for on-purpose fusible link wire in bulk.
          Much more convenient . . . than the legacy kits
          we introduced 20+ years ago.
      
          Keep up the discerning observations my friend!
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 02, 2020
      
      
      > Why put a switch in series with the E-Bus diode? 
      > I suggest that switch be eliminated. If it is not installed, it can not fail.
      
      
      
      Merely Personal preference.....I like an avionics switch.  The avionics will be
      on the essential bus.   
      
      In Bob's book he says that an avionics switch is a single point failure for every
      item on the avionics bus.  This design fixes that senecio.  The Switch and
      the Diode are used between the main and essential buses to avoid the main bus
      from ever drawing power through the essential bus.
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495555#495555
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
D Fritz <dfritzj(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
Date: 
Apr 02, 2020
      
      Bob,
      It=99s been a while since you posted your Z99P1 and I=99ve been
       having problems posting to the list.  
      
      I like your proposed architecture.  It appears to be a nice evolutionary st
      ep from previous architectures and maintains much of the Z12/8 simplicity. 
       Allowing the backup alternator to bypass the main contactor as you
      =99ve shown appears to me to provide a fully redundant path to powering the
       Poly E-bus.  I=99m running one electronic ignition and one mag on my
       IO-360 with conventional injection.  This Z99P1 looks good for my use.
      
      Dan
      
      Sent from Mail for Windows 10
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 02, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system"   with Dual
      Electron
      
      At 11:20 AM 4/2/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      > > Why put a switch in series with the E-Bus diode?
      > > I suggest that switch be eliminated. If it is not installed, it 
      > can not fail.
      >
      >
      >Merely Personal preference.....I like an avionics switch.  The 
      >avionics will be on the essential bus.
      >
      >In Bob's book he says that an avionics switch is a single point 
      >failure for every item on the avionics bus.  This design fixes that 
      >senecio.  The Switch and the Diode are used between the main and 
      >essential buses to avoid the main bus from ever drawing power 
      >through the essential bus.
      
         . . . except the avionics master has offered
         no value in the operation or cost of ownership
         in aircraft for about 40 years . . . maybe more.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system"   with Dual
      Electron
      
      At 08:45 AM 4/2/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      > > Why settle for that . . . and the expenses associated
      > > with it? When it might be easy to keep the whole
      > > panel lit up?
      >
      >
      >Simplicity was why I would settle for it.  You say "Easy to keep it 
      >all lit up." A battery seemed simple and easy.
      
         Okay, this is a bush plane. I presume you are
         hoping to launch pleasurable excursions into
         territories where being able to 'get back'
         is a whole lot more important that 'getting
         there'.
      
         Cranking battery expectations in bush aircraft
         are second only in magnitude to batteries
         in float planes. Imagine just having pushed
         away from the mooring only to find yourself
         at the mercy of wind and currents!
      
         Given that circumstance, I trust you're
         planning on periodic battery capacity and load
         checks with protocols that call for battery
         replacement long before it becomes a risk?
      
         So under what conditions would that battery
         become unavailable for running at least one
         if not both ignition systems?
      
         Further, given the size of your engine,
         do I surmise that the ship's battery is
         going to be rather robust in the first
         place?
      
         The 1 mA parasitic drain of an ignition
         system in the OFF condition would consume
         1 Ah of energy every 40 days . . . a trivial
         concern suggesting that disconnecting that
         load from the battery is of little value
         except during long term storage of the
         airplane . . . which could be managed
         by pulling a fuse.
      
         An SD8 standby alternator would weigh
         less than an 8Ah battery, requires
         close to zero preventative maintenance
         and carry 8+ amps of load as long as the
         fan is running. Given your stated running
         loads, the SD8 would keep things lit up
         until you run out of gas, a PC680 battery
         at minimum capacity for continued airworthiness
         would carry your 7A load for 0.8 x 120
         minutes . . . one way or another, you'll
         be on the ground long before the panel
         goes dark.
      
         A standby battery wired for the sole
         purpose of supporting one ignition system
         is something akin to what must be millions
         of first-aid kits bought and carried around
         by a worrying public . . . never having
         been needed to salve a skinned knee or
         band-aid some small injury . . . if ever.
      
         If it were my airplane, I'd go for Z13-8
         with both ignitions on the E-bus. Since
         the e-bus is cold when parked, no controls
         on ignition power are needed. FMEA for
         Z13-8 is about as robust as anything you
         can install . . . those ignition systems
         are never going to be deprived of necessary
         power.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
SL30 Serial Connection
From: 
"Dan Fritz" <Dfritzj(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
      
      
      Hello all,  Im wiring up my panel and connecting an SL30 nav/com to my MGL iEFIS.
      It appears my SL30 is not transmitting over the RS-232 serial line to the
      iEFIS, so I checked my wiring and it appears the SL30 has its serial transmit
      line internally grounded.  This doesnt appear correct to me, but before sending
      the unit back to Garmin for repair$, I thought Id see if anyone here on the
      list has seen this before and could give any advice.
      
      Thanks in advance,
      Dan
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495584#495584
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"Dan Fritz" <Dfritzj(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
      
      
      Moving this to the correct thread.  Anyone see any issues with Bob's new/proposed
      architecture for an IO-360 with one mag and one electronic ignition?  Would
      folks recommend the ignition be on the Battery bus?
      
      http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z99P1.pdf
      
      thanks
      
      ********************
      
      Bob,
      Its been a while since you posted your Z99P1 and Ive been having problems posting
      to the list. 
      
      I like your proposed architecture.  It appears to be a nice evolutionary step from
      previous architectures and maintains much of the Z12/8 simplicity.  Allowing
      the backup alternator to bypass the main contactor as youve shown appears to
      me to provide a fully redundant path to powering the Poly E-bus.  Im running
      one electronic ignition and one mag on my IO-360 with conventional injection.
      This Z99P1 looks good for my use.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495585#495585
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"eschlanser" <eschlanser(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
      
      
      > 
      > Have you considered the fledgling architecture posted 
      > here on the list a few weeks back . . . See 
      > 
      > https://tinyurl.com/qnzenca 
      
      
      Bob or anyone, can someone please point me to the messages about the Z01 architecture
      posted here on the list a few weeks back? I must have missed it and have
      searched but cannot find them. Thanks in advance,
      
      Eric
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495586#495586
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 10:49 AM 4/3/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >Moving this to the correct thread.  Anyone see any issues with Bob's 
      >new/proposed architecture for an IO-360 with one mag and one 
      >electronic ignition?  Would folks recommend the ignition be on the Battery bus?
      >
      >http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z99P1.pdf
      
         That was not so much a 'proposal' as the
         seed for the evolution of a replacement
         for Z12 . . . dual alternator, single battery,
         electrically dependent engine.
      
         The Z99 was a first pass sketch that ultimately
         moved to the proposal/discussion stage
         with Z01.
      
         Z01P3 as presently posted is the latest iteration
         and as Joe noted, still needs the 'nits' combed
         out.
      
      https://tinyurl.com/qnzenca
      
         No bus requires more than powering up the aircraft
         with DC power master switch to become HOT. Any
         time the main bus is up, all busses are up
         irrespective the position of any other switch.
      
         Given two, robust alternators, the endurance-
         bus function is unnecessary. There is no time
         that one might expect to operate battery
         only.
      
         There is a 'brownout' bus which is optional
         and could be 'boosted' during cranking if
         the airplane is fitted with any electro-whizzies
         vulnerable to cranking brownout. At a minimum,
         this bus might power the #1 comm transceiver
         whereupon the crew controlled, alternate feed to this
         bus could be used to power up just that radio
         to get clearance delivery (an optional feature
         going into Bonanzas and Barons while I was
         still working there).
      
         If the system supports no devices needing
         always hot battery power, the battery bus
         can also be eliminated. The minimalist
         configuration for Z01 would be a MAIN
         and ENGINE bus.
      
         The engine bus also features an crew controlled,
         alternate feed directly from the battery. There
         is no single failure of the power system that
         would cause loss of engine.
      
         There are only 4 switches of which only one
         has profound control over the status of ship's
         power. The other 3 are normally OFF pending
         failures that prompt reconfiguration.
      
         Suggested accessories go to simplifying
         installation while minimizing costs
         and potential pilot workloads.
      
         If the List is willing, I'd like to continue
         to refine this configuration with an eye
         to retiring Z12 and probably Z14 as well.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
      
      
      > Cranking battery expectations in bush aircraft 
      > are second only in magnitude to batteries 
      > in float planes.
      > 
      > Given that circumstance, I trust you're 
      > planning on periodic battery capacity and load 
      > checks with protocols that call for battery 
      > replacement long before it becomes a risk? 
      > 
      
      
      Your book helped me understand the great value of Battery Checks, so much so that
      I am now evangelistic on the topic.  The crowd believes If the starter cranks
      it Good! and tough to reason with.  Its a Cognitive Bias issue we all are susceptible
      to. 
      
      Bob, You understand our need for guidance.  Thank you for your Leadership that
      enables us. Thinking "Bush Mission" alone helps clarify things a great deal
      
      
      > So under what conditions would that battery 
      > become unavailable for running at least one 
      > if not both ignition systems? 
      > 
      
      
      In the bush.....on the ground and in the air.
      
      On the ground in the bush, the battery will be unavailable from running the ignition
      if I shut down and leave the master switch on for ten hours with an 0.8A
      draw on the master solenoid.  A distraction before completing the shut down flow
      is a likely cause.  This may be that I  
      -go to sleep or 
      -go on a long hike or 
      -go fly fishing.
      
      (A solid state solenoid with a milliamp draw discussion will take us off topic.)
      
      
      In the Air....
      
      Our rules are one single failure at at time when playing the what if game.  In
      the air, if that single failure is the alternator, then the engine keeps running
      until battery exhaustion.  By downloading the main bus I get about 80% of 6
      hours.  Then the alternator powers the engine bus even if
      -One of five bolts at the battery, ground, solenoid or engine bus loosens.
      -Open Circuit in one of three wires.
      -Battery failure 
      
      Max range in the Patrol is 9 hours.  Alaska and Northern Canada will utilize more
      than 6 hours.
      
      
      > The 1 mA parasitic drain of an ignition 
      > system in the OFF condition would consume 
      > 1 Ah of energy every 40 days . . . a trivial 
      > concern suggesting that disconnecting that 
      > load from the battery is of little value 
      > except during long term storage of the 
      > airplane . . . which could be managed 
      > by pulling a fuse. 
      > 
      
      
      Those were my thoughts.  Ill have a Battery maintainer at the hangar and can otherwise
      manage this small drain.
      
      
      > An SD8 standby alternator would weigh 
      > less than an 8Ah battery, requires 
      > close to zero preventative maintenance 
      > and carry 8+ amps of load as long as the 
      > fan is running. Given your stated running 
      > loads, the SD8 would keep things lit up 
      > until you run out of gas, a PC680 battery 
      > at minimum capacity for continued airworthiness 
      > would carry your 7A load for 0.8 x 120 
      > minutes . . . one way or another, you'll 
      > be on the ground long before the panel 
      > goes dark. 
      > 
      > A standby battery wired for the sole 
      > purpose of supporting one ignition system 
      > is something akin to what must be millions 
      > of first-aid kits bought and carried around 
      > by a worrying public . . . never having 
      > been needed to salve a skinned knee or 
      > band-aid some small injury . . . if ever. 
      > 
      > If it were my airplane, I'd go for Z13-8 
      > with both ignitions on the E-bus. Since 
      > the e-bus is cold when parked, no controls 
      > on ignition power are needed. FMEA for 
      > Z13-8 is about as robust as anything you 
      > can install . . . those ignition systems 
      > are never going to be deprived of necessary 
      > power. 
      > 
      
      
      I attached an image of the Z13-8 architecture combined with the engine bus of Z-01.
      This answers your questions.  Now, I'll post this and then study my digram
      and ask a few questions for the listening audience.
      
      Brooks
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495589#495589
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0524_197.jpg
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"Dan Fritz" <Dfritzj(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
      
      
      Bob, 
      Maybe it's in there, but if one has to power down the main bus due to smoke/fumes,
      is the Engine Bus then relegated to battery duration only?  Is this an argument
      for having the aux alternator feed on the other side of the battery contactor?
      
      Dan
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495591#495591
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Dan's architecture question
      
      At 10:49 AM 4/3/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >Moving this to the correct thread.  Anyone see any issues with Bob's
      >new/proposed architecture for an IO-360 with one mag and one
      >electronic ignition?  Would folks recommend the ignition be on the 
      >Battery bus?
      >
      >http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z99P1.pdf
      >
      >thanks
      >
      >********************
      >
      >Bob,
      >It's been a while since you posted your Z99P1 and I've been having 
      >problems posting to the list.
      >
      >I like your proposed architecture.  It appears to be a nice 
      >evolutionary step from previous architectures and maintains much of 
      >the Z12/8 simplicity.  Allowing the backup alternator to bypass the 
      >main contactor as you've shown appears to me to provide a fully 
      >redundant path to powering the Poly E-bus.  I'm running one 
      >electronic ignition and one mag on my IO-360 with conventional 
      >injection.  This Z99P1 looks good for my use.
      
         Have you made a list of your total loads?
      
         How do you plan to use this airplane?
         Night? IFR? Long distances over unfriendly
         terrain?
      
         Why wouldn't Z13/8 meet your needs with
         a lot less fuss?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 04:07 PM 4/3/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >Bob,
      >Maybe it's in there, but if one has to power down the main bus due 
      >to smoke/fumes, is the Engine Bus then relegated to battery duration 
      >only?  Is this an argument for having the aux alternator feed on the 
      >other side of the battery contactor?
      
        Still ruminating over that issue in Z01 . . .
        is Z13/8 too small for you?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
      
      
      Nuckolls says
      1) Things break
      2) Design the system so that when things break no immediate hazard is created.
      3) Things needed for comfortable termination of flight requires back up or special
      consideration to insure operation and availability.
      
      With that in mind, here are some thoughts on my crude block diagram in post #19
      where I combined  Z13/8 architecture with the dual feeder engine bus portion
      of Z01.Think of each point as an individual hypothesis.  The musings do not build
      on themselves.  
      
      First, lets keep the engine running and consider the ENGINE BUS
      
      1) The normal switch position for the ALT ENG BUS Feed must be open to prevent
      power feeding the battery through the ENG BUS.
      
      2) I desire to place the ENG BUS firewall forward but I have reliability concerns
      due to water, heat, oil pollutants in the engine compartment. There must be
      an Ugly Environment fuse holder out there on the market place.
      
      3)What If Smoke enters the Cockpit plus acrid smell of electrical due to wrench
      that falls onto the E-bus.  Typical Procedures might be BATT Master off, ALT
      off.  But now Engine dies with the ALT ENG BUS FEED open which is the normal position.
      This Violates Rule #2.
      
      Possible Resolutions 
      1) Source the Normal ENG BUS Feed circuit from the BATT side of Master Solenoid
      thru a diode instead of the ALT side of the solenoid. Source its alternate feed
      from the ALT side of the Master Solenoid through a switch. 
      I see a problemthe diode failure shuts down the engine. 
      
      
      2) Source the Normal Feed to ENG BUS from the BATT side of the Batt Master Solenoid
      without a switch or a doiode or alternate feed circuit.
      Consequence, the engine bus has no alternate feed. Seems reliable but It violates
      Rule #3.
      
      3)Remove the Engine Bus, then power each ignition from different sources.
      Attach one Ignition power supply directly to the Battery using a simple ring terminal,
      and attach the other Ignitions ring terminal to one of the following
      
      -BATT side of the Battery Master Solenoid, or 
      -the E-BUS terminal bolt, or
      -the ALT side of the Master Solenoid.
      
      This eliminates having all your engines in one basket.  Any single failure will
      not create an immediate hazard.
      
      4) Maybe a bus is overkill for merely two 0.7A circuits.
      
      
      E-BUS 
      Remove the in-line fuse on the BATT - E BUS circuit to improve reliability.  The
      Z-11 has no fuse from the Batt to the Batt Bus, but a 7A fuse on the Batt Bus
      - Ess Bus circuit.  (I dont know what is prudent and a best practice.)
      
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495595#495595
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual 
      Electron
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
      
      On 4/2/2020 11:08 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
      > At 06:09 PM 4/1/2020, you wrote:
      >>
      >> Bob, In figure Z-01, Should the brownout bus fuse be increased in 
      >> size from 10 amps to 30 amps?
      >> Since that fuse is in series with other fuses, we wouldn't want a 
      >> short circuit to blow two fuses.
      >
      >  Good observation . . . fuses, wire sizes and bus
      >  loads are evolving . . .
      >
      >  Speaking of evolution, I'm still wrestling with the
      >  notion of driving the crowbar ov breaker bus extension
      >  through a ATC fuse on the fuseblock. I cannot guarantee
      >  that every future builder would use a breaker having
      >  I(squared)t characteristics small enough to avoid
      >  popping that fuse.
      >
      >  The fusible link is still the stone simple, most
      >  convenient way to bring power from the fuseblock
      >  terminal to the circuit breaker. I'm researching
      >  sources for on-purpose fusible link wire in bulk.
      >  Much more convenient . . . than the legacy kits
      >  we introduced 20+ years ago.
      >
      >  Keep up the discerning observations my friend!
      >
      >
      >  Bob . . .
      >
      Hot rod shops likely have anything we'd need for fusible links. Here's 
      Summit's selection; everything from #10 to #18:
      https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=fusible%20link%20wirees
      
      I really like the idea of using them, especially for critical things 
      like the feeder to the engine bus.
      
      I've already set up an ATC fuse block with individual fuses for each 
      injector and ignition coil, but I'm tempted to replace those fuses with 
      fusible links. I might be wrong, but it's easy to see the links as even 
      more reliable than ATC fuses, especially on that type of appliance that 
      has a repetitive very sharp current spike, rather than a relatively 
      continuous load.
      
      Charlie
      
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 03, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      
      Bob,
      I have a dual EFIS  dual P-MAG Z 12 system.  My Pmags are wired using
      the locking version of the 2-10 switch Switch down, master on,
      ignition is powered but shorted, switch centered  ignition powered,
      not shorted, switch up, ignition not powered not shorted. The aircraft
      has flown for years with this setup.
      The EFIS's have separate power and standby battery ports. The efis
      will not boot if only the standby port is powered.. Once the efis
      comes on line it will remain online as long as power is applied to
      the standby port. I am currently using a TCW  6 A standby battery to
      power the efis standby ports. The switch to backup power is not
      automatic, the efis starts a count down when main power fails, any
      button on the efis being pusher stops the count down and switches the
      efis to backup power.  Once this mode is entered there is no way to
      shut the efis off without turning the backup battery off. This is done
      by a ground switch (separate from the main ground wire that provides
      the return to the battery) sorry I can not figure a better way to say
      that.
      My GPS navigator browns out on each start up.
      
      I never talk to clearance delivery before starting the engine and with
      the P-Mags, I do not need an engine bus. I also do not have a battery
      bus.
      
      
      I like the idea of ditching the backup battery and using a backup bus.
      I am not familiar with the brown out booster and would like ore
      information and possible  articles about this device.. Thanks in
      advance. Don
      
      On Fri, Apr 3, 2020 at 12:22 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
       wrote:
      >
      > At 10:49 AM 4/3/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      > Moving this to the correct thread.  Anyone see any issues with Bob's new/proposed
      architecture for an IO-360 with one mag and one electronic ignition?  Would
      folks recommend the ignition be on the Battery bus?
      >
      > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z99P1.pdf
      >
      >
      >   That was not so much a 'proposal' as the
      >   seed for the evolution of a replacement
      >   for Z12 . . . dual alternator, single battery,
      >   electrically dependent engine.
      >
      >   The Z99 was a first pass sketch that ultimately
      >   moved to the proposal/discussion stage
      >   with Z01.
      >
      >   Z01P3 as presently posted is the latest iteration
      >   and as Joe noted, still needs the 'nits' combed
      >   out.
      >
      > https://tinyurl.com/qnzenca
      >
      >   No bus requires more than powering up the aircraft
      >   with DC power master switch to become HOT. Any
      >   time the main bus is up, all busses are up
      >   irrespective the position of any other switch.
      >
      >   Given two, robust alternators, the endurance-
      >   bus function is unnecessary. There is no time
      >   that one might expect to operate battery
      >   only.
      >
      >   There is a 'brownout' bus which is optional
      >   and could be 'boosted' during cranking if
      >   the airplane is fitted with any electro-whizzies
      >   vulnerable to cranking brownout. At a minimum,
      >   this bus might power the #1 comm transceiver
      >   whereupon the crew controlled, alternate feed to this
      >   bus could be used to power up just that radio
      >   to get clearance delivery (an optional feature
      >   going into Bonanzas and Barons while I was
      >   still working there).
      >
      >   If the system supports no devices needing
      >   always hot battery power, the battery bus
      >   can also be eliminated. The minimalist
      >   configuration for Z01 would be a MAIN
      >   and ENGINE bus.
      >
      >   The engine bus also features an crew controlled,
      >   alternate feed directly from the battery. There
      >   is no single failure of the power system that
      >   would cause loss of engine.
      >
      >   There are only 4 switches of which only one
      >   has profound control over the status of ship's
      >   power. The other 3 are normally OFF pending
      >   failures that prompt reconfiguration.
      >
      >   Suggested accessories go to simplifying
      >   installation while minimizing costs
      >   and potential pilot workloads.
      >
      >   If the List is willing, I'd like to continue
      >   to refine this configuration with an eye
      >   to retiring Z12 and probably Z14 as well.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"wsimpso1" <wsimpso1(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Apr 04, 2020
      
      
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
      > 
      > 
      >    If the List is willing, I'd like to continue
      >    to refine this configuration with an eye
      >    to retiring Z12 and probably Z14 as well.
      >  
      >    Bob . . .
      
      
      Bob,
      
      I would rather you not "retire" Z14. I like it and am planning on using it in my
      bird - wiring has commenced. My bird is single engine with EFII, glass panel,
      IFR, night, whole continent capability. Two batteries, two masters, cross-feed,
      and very low probability of finding myself dark. I am rather attached to that
      scheme. 
      
      Even if it progresses no more because you have a single battery scheme that looks
      more reliable, I would like to see it remain on-line, perhaps with the caution
      that another scheme now scores better on FMEA. 
      
      Bill Simpson
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495601#495601
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"wsimpso1" <wsimpso1(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Apr 04, 2020
      
      
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
      > 
      > 
      >    If the List is willing, I'd like to continue
      >    to refine this configuration with an eye
      >    to retiring Z12 and probably Z14 as well.
      >  
      >    Bob . . .
      
      
      Bob,
      
      I would rather you not "retire" Z14. I like it and am planning on using it in my
      bird - wiring has commenced. My bird is single engine with EFII, glass panel,
      IFR, night, whole continent capability. Two batteries, two masters, cross-feed,
      and very low probability of finding myself dark. I am rather attached to that
      scheme. 
      
      Even if it progresses no more because you have a single battery scheme that looks
      more reliable, I would like to see it remain on-line, perhaps with the caution
      that another scheme now scores better on FMEA. 
      
      Bill Simpson
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495600#495600
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"Dan Fritz" <Dfritzj(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 04, 2020
      
      
      Bob,
      I've resumed my build after a 10-year layoff and had installed the 13/8 architecture.
      Turns our the engine I bought to hand on the firewall already had a B&C
      20 Amp alternator hanging on the accessory case.  So I've opted to leave it
      there but keep the 13/8 architecture.  I like the Z99 architecture because I can
      adopt it with very little change to what I've already installed.
      
      Dan
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495603#495603
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Dan's architecture question
From: 
"Dan Fritz" <Dfritzj(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 04, 2020
      
      
      My build is a Velocity which planned for night and IFR flights.  Load analysis
      shows Z13/8 would work fine, just happened to have a 20 Amp alternator already
      hanging on the engine...
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495604#495604
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 04, 2020
      
      
      ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote:
      > ...I've already set up an ATC fuse block with individual fuses for each     injector
      and ignition coil, but I'm tempted to replace those fuses     with fusible
      links. I might be wrong, but it's easy to see the     links as even more
      reliable than ATC fuses, especially on that type of appliance that has a repetitive
      very sharp current spike, rather than a relatively continuous load.
      >      
      > Charlie
      
      
      It seems to me that fuses are OK. My thoughts:
      
      ========================
      
      Injectors:
      
      For example, a popular OBAM EFI/I system uses 14.5 ohm "saturation" (as opposed
      to peak-hold which are to my knowledge used in single-point systems) injectors.
      Steady-state current is 1 amp per injector at 14.5 V. The system manufacturer
      recommends 5 A fuses, one per injector.
      
      Repetitive: Yes, once per crank revolution I guess.
      
      Current spike above continuous on level: No.
      
      Current rise very sharp: Not compared to a resistive load. Inductor back EMF causes
      current to rise more slowly than a that of a resistive load.
      
      Google found a typical plot at picoauto.com, attached, of saturation injector voltage
      and current. The plot even seems to be for 14.5 ohm injectors given the
      voltage and current levels shown. Note it takes a little over 2 mS for the current
      to reach saturation level. BTW the dip in current rise at 1.3 mS is when
      the solenoid valve armature moves creating back EMF in addition to what comes
      from the increasing magnetic field of the stator. Another BTW, the voltage plot
      shows the flyback voltage created when the inductor is de-energized; this is
      diode clamped, at 82 V in this case, to prevent damaging the drive transistor;
      the higher the flyback is allowed to go, the faster the injector will close.
      
      ========================================
      
      Coilpacks:
      
      picoauto.com also has voltage and current waveforms, attached, for a typical distributorless
      dual driver wasted spark coilpack. Such a coilpack would be used
      on a four cylinder Lycoming.
      
      This plot shows the same phenomenon of current rise slower than that of a resistive
      load.
      
      A Lycoming four cylinder at 2,700 RPM has 11 mS between ignition events so if this
      example coilpack represents the ones used on Lycomings, there would be no
      overlap of currents requested of the two coils. The same popular OBAM EFI/I system
      supplier says each of their coilpacks draw "just over 1 amp in cruise at
      2,400 rpm". and they recommend a 10 A fuse for each coilpack.
      
      =======================================
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495605#495605
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/erase_873.png
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/erase1_109.png
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 05, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 07:30 AM 4/4/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > >    If the List is willing, I'd like to continue
      > >    to refine this configuration with an eye
      > >    to retiring Z12 and probably Z14 as well.
      >
      >
      >I would rather you not "retire" Z14. I like it and am planning on 
      >using it in my bird - wiring has commenced. My bird is single engine 
      >with EFII, glass panel, IFR, night, whole continent capability. Two 
      >batteries, two masters, cross-feed, and very low probability of 
      >finding myself dark. I am rather attached to that scheme.
      
         Don't get wrapped around any axles-of-
         authority for what's published in the
         'Connection. It's your airplane and if
         it's performing as-advertised combined
         with your complete understanding of it's
         operation, then there's no risk for
      
      
         Our mission here is a compilation
         of the best-we-know how to do. To
         refine design goals that minimize
         complexity, weight, cost of ownership
         while minimizing risk.
      
         I suggest that no airplane, motorcycle,
         4-wheeler, bass boat or any other high
         energy endeavor can be made SAFE.
      
         We can reduce risk through though attention
         to history, reverence for good physics,
         pride of craftsmanship, a quest for
         understanding by all participants and
         responsible operation by the pilot.
      
      >Even if it progresses no more because you have a single battery 
      >scheme that looks more reliable,
      >I would like to see it remain on-line, perhaps with the caution that 
      >another scheme now scores better on FMEA.
      
         . . . not 'more' reliable from a performance
         perspective but from a cost of ownership
         and operations perspective. I don't think I've
         every heard of a systems guy getting hammered
         'cause he took out things that reduced weight,
         cost of ownership and/or simplified system
         operation . . . you won't have a failure or
         maintenance burden from a part that isn't
         installed!
      
         Z-14 performs as advertised but in my never
         humble opinion, it is too complex. It served a
         purpose of limited utility that is quickly
         passing. Electrical power needs are changing
         while the reliability of all components
         is going up. If N811HB had been fitted with
         Z01PX . . . that fine machine might still
         be in service with nobody getting hurt.
      
         Revision 12 is in wide distribution both
         in print and digitally. Z14 isn't 'going
         away.' But if it can be replaced with greater
         elegance of design and purpose, then so be it.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 05, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 10:12 AM 4/4/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >Bob,
      >I've resumed my build after a 10-year layoff and had installed the 
      >13/8 architecture.  Turns our the engine I bought to hand on the 
      >firewall already had a B&C 20 Amp alternator hanging on the 
      >accessory case.  So I've opted to leave it there but keep the 13/8 
      >architecture.  I like the Z99 architecture because I can adopt it 
      >with very little change to what I've already installed.
      >
      >Dan
      
          Watch this space. From my current digs which
          I refer to as '100 miles from everywhere', I
          have a lot of opportunity for what I call
          'asphalt engineering'. Did about 6 hours
          of that exercise over the past week.
      
          Had a bit of an epiphany about the evolution
          of Z01 (the technical term is brain f@&t).
          I'm working on the next submission for
          everyone's input . . . I think you'll
          find it compatible with your desires
          cited above.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 05, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      Bob from what I have seen Z01 would be exactly what I would be looking for
      on my next aircraft.
      
      1. Z-14 is too complex for me from a cost, weight, and maintenance point of
      view.
      
      2. I have no need for an e-bus since an alternator failure will be detected
      right away and after switching to the SD-8 there is plenty of time to shut
      down individual loads that aren't required at that time if the flight time
      remaining deems it necessary.
      
      3. Since both Garmin and Dynon have excellent backup batteries that will
      power essential systems only for flight and navigation, I was never
      interested in a brownout bus. Last year I discovered that if you program
      your flight plan into the GPS navigator with the engine shut down it's
      usually fine but every once in a while the engine cranking takes a bit too
      long and the navigator resets, clearing out the flight plan. Preventing
      this would be useful so now I'm a fan of the brownout bus. Having the nav
      lights, one COM and the GPS navigator on that bus with a clearance delivery
      switch to power it by itself would be something I would use just about
      every flight.
      
      4. I think electrically dependent engines are becoming the norm rather than
      the exception for new amateur built aircraft.
      
      Regards,
      
      Sebastien
      
      On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 9:02 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 10:12 AM 4/4/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      > Bob,
      > I've resumed my build after a 10-year layoff and had installed the 13/8
      > architecture.  Turns our the engine I bought to hand on the firewall
      > already had a B&C 20 Amp alternator hanging on the accessory case.  So I've
      > opted to leave it there but keep the 13/8 architecture.  I like the Z99
      > architecture because I can adopt it with very little change to what I've
      > already installed.
      >
      > Dan
      >
      >
      >    Watch this space. From my current digs which
      >    I refer to as '100 miles from everywhere', I
      >    have a lot of opportunity for what I call
      >    'asphalt engineering'. Did about 6 hours
      >    of that exercise over the past week.
      >
      >    Had a bit of an epiphany about the evolution
      >    of Z01 (the technical term is brain f@&t).
      >    I'm working on the next submission for
      >    everyone's input . . . I think you'll
      >    find it compatible with your desires
      >    cited above.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Z11 "Generic Electrical system" with Dual Electron
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 05, 2020
      
      
      In Post #20, I ask myself about resolution to Smoke in Cockpit due to electrical,
      bus failure.  I am offering a diagram with the solution that I think I like.
      
      Its a simplified  Z13/8 architecture with one ignition powered from the battery
      terminal and the other powered from the Battery side of the Master Solenoid.
      
      
      Should the Circuit from the Battery to the E-Bus have a fuse-link?  I ask because
      the Z-13/8 diagrams the Main bus and E-Bus circuit does not.
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495625#495625
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 12:13 PM 4/5/2020, you wrote:
      Bob from what I have seen Z01 would be exactly
      what I would be looking for on my next aircraft.
      
      1. Z-14 is too complex for me from a cost,
      weight, and maintenance point of view.
      
         Probably true for 95+ percent of all
         OBAM aircraft.
      
      2. I have no need for an e-bus since an alternator failure
      will be detected right away and after switching to the SD-8
      there is plenty of time to shut down individual loads that
      aren't required at that time if the flight time remaining
      deems it necessary.
      
         Another feature of the e-bus was to unburden
         the SD8 of carrying a battery contactor load.
         The battery contactor is about a 0.7A load,
         a significant fraction of SD8 output. That
         amount of current would be better used to
         keep a couple of solid state electro-whizzies
         lit up . . . but if your load analysis says
         that contactor loads can be handily support
         as part of  your plan-b loads, then no
         problem!
      
      3. Since both Garmin and Dynon have excellent backup
      batteries that will power essential systems only for
      flight and navigation, I was never interested in a brownout
      bus. Last year I discovered that if you program your
      flight plan into the GPS navigator with the engine shut
      down it's usually fine but every once in a while the
      engine cranking takes a bit too long and the navigator resets,
      clearing out the flight plan. Preventing this would be
      useful so now I'm a fan of the brownout bus. Having the
      nav lights, one COM and the GPS navigator on that bus
      with a clearance delivery switch to power it by itself
      would be something I would use just about every flight.
      
         Brown out/endurance/clearance are one
         and the same bus. Why nav lights?
      
      4. I think electrically dependent engines are becoming
      the norm rather than the exception for new amateur
      built aircraft.
      
         Yup, the seeds were already in the ground
         at my first trip to OSH in '86. There
         were a couple electronic ignitions being
         offered that year not the least of what
         would become LightSpeed.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered.
      Several times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead
      battery.
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 09:14 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 12:13 PM 4/5/2020, you wrote:
      > Bob from what I have seen Z01 would be exactly
      > what I would be looking for on my next aircraft.
      >
      > 1. Z-14 is too complex for me from a cost,
      > weight, and maintenance point of view.
      >
      >   Probably true for 95+ percent of all
      >   OBAM aircraft.
      >
      > 2. I have no need for an e-bus since an alternator failure
      > will be detected right away and after switching to the SD-8
      > there is plenty of time to shut down individual loads that
      > aren't required at that time if the flight time remaining
      > deems it necessary.
      >
      >   Another feature of the e-bus was to unburden
      >   the SD8 of carrying a battery contactor load.
      >   The battery contactor is about a 0.7A load,
      >   a significant fraction of SD8 output. That
      >   amount of current would be better used to
      >   keep a couple of solid state electro-whizzies
      >   lit up . . . but if your load analysis says
      >   that contactor loads can be handily support
      >   as part of  your plan-b loads, then no
      >   problem!
      >
      > 3. Since both Garmin and Dynon have excellent backup
      > batteries that will power essential systems only for
      > flight and navigation, I was never interested in a brownout
      > bus. Last year I discovered that if you program your
      > flight plan into the GPS navigator with the engine shut
      > down it's usually fine but every once in a while the
      > engine cranking takes a bit too long and the navigator resets,
      > clearing out the flight plan. Preventing this would be
      > useful so now I'm a fan of the brownout bus. Having the
      > nav lights, one COM and the GPS navigator on that bus
      > with a clearance delivery switch to power it by itself
      > would be something I would use just about every flight.
      >
      >   Brown out/endurance/clearance are one
      >   and the same bus. Why nav lights?
      >
      > 4. I think electrically dependent engines are becoming
      > the norm rather than the exception for new amateur
      > built aircraft.
      >
      >   Yup, the seeds were already in the ground
      >   at my first trip to OSH in '86. There
      >   were a couple electronic ignitions being
      >   offered that year not the least of what
      >   would become LightSpeed.
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      Another feature of the e-bus was to unburden
        the SD8 of carrying a battery contactor load.
        The battery contactor is about a 0.7A load,
        a significant fraction of SD8 output. That
        amount of current would be better used to
        keep a couple of solid state electro-whizzies
        lit up . . . but if your load analysis says
        that contactor loads can be handily support
        as part of  your plan-b loads, then no
        problem!
      
      Are solid state contactor loads significantly less than the traditional
      contactors?
      
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 8:14 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 12:13 PM 4/5/2020, you wrote:
      > Bob from what I have seen Z01 would be exactly
      > what I would be looking for on my next aircraft.
      >
      > 1. Z-14 is too complex for me from a cost,
      > weight, and maintenance point of view.
      >
      >   Probably true for 95+ percent of all
      >   OBAM aircraft.
      >
      > 2. I have no need for an e-bus since an alternator failure
      > will be detected right away and after switching to the SD-8
      > there is plenty of time to shut down individual loads that
      > aren't required at that time if the flight time remaining
      > deems it necessary.
      >
      >   Another feature of the e-bus was to unburden
      >   the SD8 of carrying a battery contactor load.
      >   The battery contactor is about a 0.7A load,
      >   a significant fraction of SD8 output. That
      >   amount of current would be better used to
      >   keep a couple of solid state electro-whizzies
      >   lit up . . . but if your load analysis says
      >   that contactor loads can be handily support
      >   as part of  your plan-b loads, then no
      >   problem!
      >
      > 3. Since both Garmin and Dynon have excellent backup
      > batteries that will power essential systems only for
      > flight and navigation, I was never interested in a brownout
      > bus. Last year I discovered that if you program your
      > flight plan into the GPS navigator with the engine shut
      > down it's usually fine but every once in a while the
      > engine cranking takes a bit too long and the navigator resets,
      > clearing out the flight plan. Preventing this would be
      > useful so now I'm a fan of the brownout bus. Having the
      > nav lights, one COM and the GPS navigator on that bus
      > with a clearance delivery switch to power it by itself
      > would be something I would use just about every flight.
      >
      >   Brown out/endurance/clearance are one
      >   and the same bus. Why nav lights?
      >
      > 4. I think electrically dependent engines are becoming
      > the norm rather than the exception for new amateur
      > built aircraft.
      >
      >   Yup, the seeds were already in the ground
      >   at my first trip to OSH in '86. There
      >   were a couple electronic ignitions being
      >   offered that year not the least of what
      >   would become LightSpeed.
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Stay strong. Read books. Listen to music. Ignore the orange psychopath.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered. Several
      >times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead battery.
      
        You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 11:41 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >Another feature of the e-bus was to unburden
      >=C2  the SD8 of carrying a battery contactor load.
      >=C2  The battery contactor is about a 0.7A load,
      >=C2  a significant fraction of SD8 output. That
      >=C2  amount of current would be better used to
      >=C2  keep a couple of solid state electro-whizzies
      >=C2  lit up . . . but if your load analysis says
      >=C2  that contactor loads can be handily support
      >=C2  as part of=C2  your plan-b loads, then no
      >=C2  problem!
      >
      >Are solid state contactor loads significantly 
      >less than the traditional contactors?
      
         Yes. I'm not yet convinced that going
         solid-state has a useful return on
         investment . . . what are you planning
         to spend on an SS battery contactor?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      I'm not planning on an SS contactor, just wondering if that info was
      factored into the decision of e-bus/no e-bus?
      
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 9:26 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 11:41 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >
      > Another feature of the e-bus was to unburden
      > =C3=82  the SD8 of carrying a battery contactor load.
      > =C3=82  The battery contactor is about a 0.7A load,
      > =C3=82  a significant fraction of SD8 output. That
      > =C3=82  amount of current would be better used to
      > =C3=82  keep a couple of solid state electro-whizzies
      > =C3=82  lit up . . . but if your load analysis says
      > =C3=82  that contactor loads can be handily support
      > =C3=82  as part of=C3=82  your plan-b loads, then no
      > =C3=82  problem!
      >
      > Are solid state contactor loads significantly less than the traditional
      > contactors?
      >
      >
      >   Yes. I'm not yet convinced that going
      >   solid-state has a useful return on
      >   investment . . . what are you planning
      >   to spend on an SS battery contactor?
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Stay strong. Read books. Listen to music. Ignore the orange psychopath.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's
      only useful with the engine running.
      
      Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the
      aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >
      > I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered.
      > Several
      > times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead battery.
      >
      >
      >  You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 12:29 PM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >I'm not planning on an SS contactor, just wondering if that info
      >was factored into the decision of e-bus/no e-bus?
      
        It's the LOAD ANALYSIS that drives such
        decisions . . . it's among the first
        documents to be created and evolved as
        any new design hits the drawing boards.
      
        Contactor loads will be cited for consideration
        as the design process moves along.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the LV alarm
      flashing?
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      
      > Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's
      > only useful with the engine running.
      >
      > Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the
      > aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >
      >> At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >>
      >> I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered.
      >> Several
      >> times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead battery.
      >>
      >>
      >>  You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 02:57 PM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but 
      >that's only useful with the engine running.
      >Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the 
      >aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      
         Yup. The LV warning light on B&C controllers
         is active whether or not the engine is running.
         Also, it's not difficult to add an appropriately
         obnoxious stand-alone warning device.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Revmaster R2300 Ignition
From: 
"dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
      
      
      My question is related to the VW derivative, Revmaster 2300 and the ignition control
      wiring.  The Remaster manual has a description of the ignition as a CDI
      powered by 2 independent and internal coils on the flywheel.  The ignition system
      has 8 coils (one on each plug).
      
      Run up and testing is done by turning off (via pulling to ground) the equivalent
      of "P" leads for each of the 4 independent ignition circuits.  During normal
      run-up the operator might kill the top plugs by bringing two of the switches
      to ground (equivalent of maybe right or left on a dual magneto system).
      
      OK, that is probably more confusing than it needs to be but here is my question.
      I'm thinking it might be useful / advantageous, to use a traditional ignition
      switch.  So, Attached is my scenario where I've included four relays to pull
      the CDI ignition to ground from the ignition switch.  Question, using automotive
      relays, would the coil current be detrimental to the life of the ignition?
      Any other reason this would not work?
      
      Thanks for your consideration.
      
      --------
      Scratch building Sonex #1362
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495653#495653
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/revmaster_2300_r11a_ingnition_ckt_212.pdf
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      It is flashing, inside the plane. Doesn't help outside the plane.
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:51 Charlie England  wrote:
      
      > If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the LV alarm
      > flashing?
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      >
      >> Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's
      >> only useful with the engine running.
      >>
      >> Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the
      >> aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      >>
      >> On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      >> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >>
      >>> At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >>>
      >>> I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered.
      >>> Several
      >>> times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead battery.
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>  You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      >>>
      >>>   Bob . . .
      >>>
      >>
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      The problem with an obnoxious warning device is that it is obnoxious. I'm
      not about to add something that warns me that my clearance delivery switch
      is on since it will be on before almost every flight.
      
      But if you have a circuit design for an obnoxious warning that only signals
      when my brain has forgotten something, I'll take it.
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:47 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 02:57 PM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >
      > Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's
      > only useful with the engine running.
      > Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the
      > aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      >
      >
      >   Yup. The LV warning light on B&C controllers
      >   is active whether or not the engine is running.
      >   Also, it's not difficult to add an appropriately
      >   obnoxious stand-alone warning device.
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
John B <jbsoar(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      You left the master switch on???  This is easy to do, in a cockpit with
      only one crewmember, as there is no valid challenge-response shutdown
      checklist like the ones used in crewed aircraft.  To (hopefully)
      ameliorate this possibility in my Yak 55M, I've installed a Davtron
      voltmeter.  The display is rather large.  It displays bus voltage, thus,
      any time the master switch is on, system voltage is displayed.  The cost of
      the meter is less than the inconvenience of a dead battery, and it weighs
      about as much as a pack of cigarettes...  I picked green, but other colors
      are available, and I believe it dims automatically...  ('Not a factor in a
      day-VFR aerobatic airplane.)  Dark cockpit=Master switch off.
      
      As an aside, read the fine print on the B&C voltage regulator.  The low
      volt light may NOT flash if one's battery is well-charged.  Bob, can you
      add to this?
      
      John B
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 6:40 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      
      > The problem with an obnoxious warning device is that it is obnoxious. I'm
      > not about to add something that warns me that my clearance delivery switch
      > is on since it will be on before almost every flight.
      >
      > But if you have a circuit design for an obnoxious warning that only
      > signals when my brain has forgotten something, I'll take it.
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:47 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      > nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >
      >> At 02:57 PM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >>
      >> Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's
      >> only useful with the engine running.
      >> Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the
      >> aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      >>
      >>
      >>   Yup. The LV warning light on B&C controllers
      >>   is active whether or not the engine is running.
      >>   Also, it's not difficult to add an appropriately
      >>   obnoxious stand-alone warning device.
      >>
      >>   Bob . . .
      >>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
       FYI...
      
      On the topic of low-power master relays as an alternative to traditional "t
      in-can" or solid-state relays,
      Here is a Bosch relay with contacts rated 75A and the coil draws around 0.2
       A, (instead of 0.7A or higher as with some "tin-can" relays).=C2- I'm us
      ing it for my master relay. It costs about $35.
      Bosch part #: V23232-D0001-X001
      
      Here an Amazon link:=C2-https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117FAGVO?tag=duckdu
      ckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
      
       wrote:  
      
       It is flashing, inside the plane. Doesn't help outside the plane.
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:51 Charlie England  wrote:
      
      If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the LV alarm 
      flashing?
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      
      Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's on
      ly useful with the engine running.
      Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the aircra
      ft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroe
      lectric.com> wrote:
      
      At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      
      I have the Nav lights on anytimethe aircraft is electrically powered. Sever
      al
      times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a deadbattery.
      
      =C2-You don't have obnoxious notification of lowvolts?
      
      
      =C2- Bob . . .
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
DeWitt Whittington <dee.whittington(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
      
      I solved the problem of leaving the master switch on years ago when I 
      was in 4 Cessna flying club. I instituted a protocol of leaving the 
      flashing beacon (tail strobe) on all the time. Much brighter than the 
      nav lights. After that no one of the 50 or so members walked out with 
      that flashing light so totally obvious after closing the hangar door and 
      turning of the fluorescent lighting. Problem solved.
      
      Dee
      
      > On Apr 6, 2020, at 7:30 PM, Sebastien  wrote:
      > 
      > It is flashing, inside the plane. Doesn't help outside the plane.
      > 
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:51 Charlie England > wrote:
      > If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the LV 
      alarm flashing?
      > 
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien > wrote:
      > Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but 
      that's only useful with the engine running.
      > 
      > Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the 
      aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      > 
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III 
      > 
      wrote:
      > At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >> I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically 
      powered. Several
      >> times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead 
      battery.
      > 
      >  You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      > 
      >   Bob . . .
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      I'm starting to get the feeling that no one around here owns an airplane :).
      
      I have never left the master switch on after a flight, the checklist
      doesn't get put away until it's done. But if you have the master on while
      you are working on the airplane, and then do something for a couple minutes
      on the bench, and then decide to stop for lunch, it's a lot harder to walk
      away from a powered up aircraft if the nav lights are on. In fact the only
      times I've ever managed to do it was when some well meaning idiot turned
      the nav lights off for me.
      
      It's standard practice for the airlines, I've always made it standard
      practice for all aircraft I fly or manage.
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 17:17 John B  wrote:
      
      > You left the master switch on???  This is easy to do, in a cockpit with
      > only one crewmember, as there is no valid challenge-response shutdown
      > checklist like the ones used in crewed aircraft.  To (hopefully)
      > ameliorate this possibility in my Yak 55M, I've installed a Davtron
      > voltmeter.  The display is rather large.  It displays bus voltage, thus,
      > any time the master switch is on, system voltage is displayed.  The cost of
      > the meter is less than the inconvenience of a dead battery, and it weighs
      > about as much as a pack of cigarettes...  I picked green, but other colors
      > are available, and I believe it dims automatically...  ('Not a factor in a
      > day-VFR aerobatic airplane.)  Dark cockpit=Master switch off.
      >
      > As an aside, read the fine print on the B&C voltage regulator.  The low
      > volt light may NOT flash if one's battery is well-charged.  Bob, can you
      > add to this?
      >
      > John B
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 6:40 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      >
      >> The problem with an obnoxious warning device is that it is obnoxious. I'm
      >> not about to add something that warns me that my clearance delivery switch
      >> is on since it will be on before almost every flight.
      >>
      >> But if you have a circuit design for an obnoxious warning that only
      >> signals when my brain has forgotten something, I'll take it.
      >>
      >> On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:47 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      >> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >>
      >>> At 02:57 PM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >>>
      >>> Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's
      >>> only useful with the engine running.
      >>> Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the
      >>> aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>   Yup. The LV warning light on B&C controllers
      >>>   is active whether or not the engine is running.
      >>>   Also, it's not difficult to add an appropriately
      >>>   obnoxious stand-alone warning device.
      >>>
      >>>   Bob . . .
      >>>
      >>
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
      
      I wonder how many 300A spikes from the starter motor coming on line 
      it'll take to let the magic smoke out of an 75A relay. You can get 
      'cube' type automotive relays rated at up to ~120A, but even those I 
      wouldn't want to run starter current through.
      
      Charlie
      
      On 4/6/2020 7:23 PM, Jeff Luckey wrote:
      > FYI...
      >
      > On the topic of low-power master relays as an alternative to 
      > traditional "tin-can" or solid-state relays,
      >
      > Here is a Bosch relay with contacts rated 75A and the coil draws 
      > around 0.2 A, (instead of 0.7A or higher as with some "tin-can" 
      > relays). I'm using it for my master relay. It costs about $35.
      >
      > Bosch part #: V23232-D0001-X001
      >
      > Here an Amazon link: 
      > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117FAGVO?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
      >
      >
      >  wrote:
      >
      >
      > It is flashing, inside the plane. Doesn't help outside the plane.
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:51 Charlie England  > wrote:
      >
      >     If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the
      >     LV alarm flashing?
      >
      >     On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien      > wrote:
      >
      >         Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm
      >         but that's only useful with the engine running.
      >
      >         Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away
      >         from the aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead
      >         battery.
      >
      >         On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
      >                  > wrote:
      >
      >             At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >>             I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is
      >>             electrically powered. Several
      >>             times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a
      >>             dead battery.
      >
      >             You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      >
      >              Bob . . .
      >
      
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
       Hey Charlie,
      My start solenoid is not downstream of the master relay, so it won't ever s
      ee starter current.
      
      
      gmail.com> wrote:  
      
        I wonder how many 300A spikes from the starter motor coming on line it'll
       take to let the magic smoke out of an 75A relay. You can get 'cube' type a
      utomotive relays rated at up to=C2- ~120A, but=C2- even those I wouldn'
      t want to run starter current through.
      
       Charlie
      
       On 4/6/2020 7:23 PM, Jeff Luckey wrote:
      
      
       FYI...
      
        On the topic of low-power master relays as an alternative to traditional 
      "tin-can" or solid-state relays, 
        Here is a Bosch relay with contacts rated 75A and the coil draws around 0
      .2 A, (instead of 0.7A or higher as with some "tin-can" relays).=C2- I'm 
      using it for my master relay. It costs about $35. 
        Bosch part #: V23232-D0001-X001
      
        Here an Amazon link:=C2-https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117FAGVO?tag=duck
      duckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 
      
      m> wrote:  
      
           It is flashing, inside the plane. Doesn't help outside the plane. 
         On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:51 Charlie England  wrote:
      
        If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the LV alar
      m flashing?  
        On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      
       Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's o
      nly useful with the engine running. 
        Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the airc
      raft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.  
        On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aer
      oelectric.com> wrote:
      
        At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      
      I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered. Seve
      ral
       times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead battery.
      
       =C2-You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      
      
       =C2- Bob . . . 
      
      
              
      
      
      |  | Virus-free. www.avast.com  |
      
         
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
A R Goldman <argoldman(at)aol.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      And the resistance in the device is????
      
      Sent from my iPhone
      
      > On Apr 6, 2020, at 8:14 PM, Jeff Luckey  wrote:
      > 
      > Hey Charlie,
      > 
      > My start solenoid is not downstream of the master relay, so it won't ever s
      ee starter current.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      il.com> wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > I wonder how many 300A spikes from the starter motor coming on line it'll t
      ake to let the magic smoke out of an 75A relay. You can get 'cube' type auto
      motive relays rated at up to  ~120A, but  even those I wouldn't want to run s
      tarter current through.
      > 
      > Charlie
      > 
      >> On 4/6/2020 7:23 PM, Jeff Luckey wrote:
      > 
      > FYI...
      > 
      > On the topic of low-power master relays as an alternative to traditional "
      tin-can" or solid-state relays,
      > 
      > Here is a Bosch relay with contacts rated 75A and the coil draws around 0.
      2 A, (instead of 0.7A or higher as with some "tin-can" relays).  I'm using i
      t for my master relay. It costs about $35.
      > 
      > Bosch part #: V23232-D0001-X001
      > 
      > Here an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117FAGVO?tag=duckduckgo
      -d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
      > 
      > 
      ote:
      > 
      > 
      > It is flashing, inside the plane. Doesn't help outside the plane.
      > 
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:51 Charlie England  wrote:
      > If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the LV alarm
       flashing?
      > 
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      > Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's o
      nly useful with the engine running.
      > 
      > Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the aircr
      aft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      > 
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aero
      electric.com> wrote:
      > At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >> I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered. Se
      veral
      >> times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead battery.
      > 
      >  You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      > 
      >   Bob . . .
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 	Virus-free. www.avast.com
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 06, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      That works too Dee if you have a red beacon. I find the nav lights a better
      option since it's visible from any angle, and also because the beacon
      normally is used on the ground to warn people that engines are running or
      that the aircraft may move whereas the convention for nav lights on the
      ground indicates the aircraft is powered.
      
      Also many amateur built aircraft do not have a beacon since the strobe
      lights meet the requirement for a beacon. I think leaving the strobes on
      might be a little aggressive :).
      
      On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 17:50 DeWitt Whittington 
      wrote:
      
      > I solved the problem of leaving the master switch on years ago when I was
      > in 4 Cessna flying club. I instituted a protocol of leaving the flashing
      > beacon (tail strobe) on all the time. Much brighter than the nav lights.
      > After that no one of the 50 or so members walked out with that flashing
      > light so totally obvious after closing the hangar door and turning of the
      > fluorescent lighting. Problem solved.
      >
      > Dee
      >
      > On Apr 6, 2020, at 7:30 PM, Sebastien  wrote:
      >
      > It is flashing, inside the plane. Doesn't help outside the plane.
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 14:51 Charlie England  wrote:
      >
      >> If your master is on, but the engine isn't running, Why isn't the LV
      >> alarm flashing?
      >>
      >> On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM Sebastien  wrote:
      >>
      >>> Yes, anything less than 13.8 V gives a visual and audio alarm but that's
      >>> only useful with the engine running.
      >>>
      >>> Doesn't help when forgetting the master on and walking away from the
      >>> aircraft to come back a couple days later with a dead battery.
      >>>
      >>> On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 10:24 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      >>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      >>>
      >>>> At 11:32 AM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >>>>
      >>>> I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered.
      >>>> Several
      >>>> times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead battery.
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>>  You don't have obnoxious notification of low volts?
      >>>>
      >>>>   Bob . . .
      >>>>
      >>>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
      
      
      > My start solenoid is not downstream of the master relay, so it won't ever see
      starter current.
      > 
      
      
      I'm interested how you have this wired.  I trust the architecture of your electrical
      system allows for a method to de-power the starter in the event that the
      Starter Relay fails with the starter on.  It seems to me like the normal way
      its done is by having start solenoid downstream of the Master Relay.
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495666#495666
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
kensmith <kensmith(at)springnet1.com>
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
      
      Excellent idea Sebastian!!!
      > I have the Nav lights on anytime the aircraft is electrically powered. 
      > Several times it has saved me from walking away to come back to a dead 
      > battery.
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 6, 2020, 09:14 Robert L. Nuckolls, III 
      > > 
      > wrote:
      >
      >     At 12:13 PM 4/5/2020, you wrote:
      >     Bob from what I have seen Z01 would be exactly
      >     what I would be looking for on my next aircraft.
      >
      >     1. Z-14 is too complex for me from a cost,
      >     weight, and maintenance point of view.
      >
      >      Probably true for 95+ percent of all
      >      OBAM aircraft.
      >
      >     2. I have no need for an e-bus since an alternator failure
      >     will be detected right away and after switching to the SD-8
      >     there is plenty of time to shut down individual loads that
      >     aren't required at that time if the flight time remaining
      >     deems it necessary.
      >
      >      Another feature of the e-bus was to unburden
      >      the SD8 of carrying a battery contactor load.
      >      The battery contactor is about a 0.7A load,
      >      a significant fraction of SD8 output. That
      >      amount of current would be better used to
      >      keep a couple of solid state electro-whizzies
      >      lit up . . . but if your load analysis says
      >      that contactor loads can be handily support
      >      as part of your plan-b loads, then no
      >      problem!
      >
      >     3. Since both Garmin and Dynon have excellent backup
      >     batteries that will power essential systems only for
      >     flight and navigation, I was never interested in a brownout
      >     bus. Last year I discovered that if you program your
      >     flight plan into the GPS navigator with the engine shut
      >     down it's usually fine but every once in a while the
      >     engine cranking takes a bit too long and the navigator resets,
      >     clearing out the flight plan. Preventing this would be
      >     useful so now I'm a fan of the brownout bus. Having the
      >     nav lights, one COM and the GPS navigator on that bus
      >     with a clearance delivery switch to power it by itself
      >     would be something I would use just about every flight.
      >
      >      Brown out/endurance/clearance are one
      >      and the same bus. Why nav lights?
      >
      >     4. I think electrically dependent engines are becoming
      >     the norm rather than the exception for new amateur
      >     built aircraft.
      >
      >      Yup, the seeds were already in the ground
      >      at my first trip to OSH in '86. There
      >      were a couple electronic ignitions being
      >      offered that year not the least of what
      >      would become LightSpeed.
      >
      >      Bob . . .
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 06:30 AM 4/7/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      > > My start solenoid is not downstream of the master relay, so it 
      > won't ever see starter current.
      > >
      >I'm interested how you have this wired.  I trust the architecture of 
      >your electrical system allows for a method to de-power the starter 
      >in the event that the Starter Relay fails with the starter on.  It 
      >seems to me like the normal way its done is by having start solenoid 
      >downstream of the Master Relay.
      
         This has been conventional practice in TC
         aircraft for about a century . . .
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      
      >I wonder how many 300A spikes from the starter motor coming on line
      >it'll take to let the magic smoke out of an 75A relay. You can get
      >'cube' type automotive relays rated at up to ~120A, but  even those
      >I wouldn't want to run starter current through.
      
          I've had several 'modern', high current plastic relays
          on the bench for a tear-down, look-see.  One of them
          looked as if it MIGHT stand the rigors of battery
          master contactor on a small engine.
      
          The ratings on a suitable device don't tell the
          whole story. As background I'll refer the reader
          to the specs for one of several, legacy products
          with very long track records:
      
      https://tinyurl.com/uqsxek8
      
          Note that this device is rated at only 80A. But
          keep in mind that these are SWITCH not CARRY
          ratings. Relay and switch contact wear is
          a function of energy released in the air-gap
          between contact bounces (when closing) and
          contact spreading (when opening). Switching
          limitations are established based on design
          goals for meeting service life for tens of
          thousands of operations.
      
          It's not a stretch to suggest that one
          of the modern, plastic wonders might well
          replace our venerable whisky-barrel style
          contactors as a battery master relay.
      
          There are other considerations: The legacy
          contactors with their robust, 5/16" studs
          are handy gathering places for multiple
          wires . . . some of them pretty fat. Mechanical
          robustness of these studs has proven valuable
          and convenient. But even these studs are
          sometimes too short to accommodate more than
          3 terminals.
      
          The attached figure is an excerpt from the
          work-in-progress, Z01 architecture study.
          In that drawing I have suggest an yet-to-be-
          defined device for expanding the number of
          wires that can be gathered together at
          one contactor fat-wire stud.
      
          I encourage exploration of modern options
          for replacing legacy practices . . . that's
          what Z01 is all about. But it's a good thing
          to run new ideas up a very tall flagpole
          before incorporating it into flying hardware
          . . . especially for things that can have
          a system-wide failure impact if not a risk
          for fire if suffering a high-energy self
          destruct event. Whisky-barrel contactors
          are all metal . . . few modern designs
          are so well confined.
      
          Further, device ratings are but one data point
          in bucket of sands to be sifted.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
      
      At 05:45 PM 4/6/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >My question is related to the VW derivative, Revmaster 2300 and the 
      >ignition control wiring.  The Remaster manual has a description of 
      >the ignition as a CDI powered by 2 independent and internal coils on 
      >the flywheel.  The ignition system has 8 coils (one on each plug).
      
        I believe this is similar to that used
        by Rotax on the 9XX series engines.
      
        That's a REALLY busy drawing . . .
      
        Is there a downloadable installation
        manual for this engine that I could
        look at?
      
      
         Bob . . .  
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
       Hello Brooks,
      I have been watching some of your threads with interest.=C2- You seem to 
      be asking lots of good questions.
      I'm in the process of building an RV-7, currently working on the wings & fu
      el tanks.
      You wrote:=C2-"I trust the architecture of your electrical system allows 
      for a method to de-power the starter in the event that the Starter Relay fa
      ils with the starter on. "
      The answer is that I do not.=C2- I consider the likelihood of a welded-sh
      ut start solenoid to be so rare as to not be a factor.=C2- But I also don
      't use a traditional "tin-can" start solenoid.=C2- I'm using a Ford start
       solenoid that has be optimized (by Ford sometime back in the 80's) specifi
      cally for the task of cranking engines.=C2- I've heard them referred to a
      s "pancake" solenoids.=C2- They look like this:
      https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-F3914-Professional-Starter-Solenoid/dp/B000I
      YY3KQ/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=ford+starter+solenoid&qid=158627
      9687&sr=8-9
      
      Herein lies the beauty of OBAM aircraft:=C2- we have the freedom to speci
      fy the parts we feel are better suited for a particular job.=C2- So I hav
      e decided to use this start solenoid and, as I mentioned in previous post, 
      the Bosch relay for my master as it has a much lower current draw (and has 
      the coil fly-back diode built in).
      I have designed my own electrical system.=C2- (In a former life, I worked
       as an engineer for vehicular power systems).=C2- Attached is a schematic
       of my electrical system for your amusement.
      
      com> wrote:  
      
      
      > My start solenoid is not downstream of the master relay, so it won't ever
       see starter current.
      > 
      
      
      I'm interested how you have this wired.=C2- I trust the architecture of y
      our electrical system allows for a method to de-power the starter in the ev
      ent that the Starter Relay fails with the starter on.=C2- It seems to me 
      like the normal way its done is by having start solenoid downstream of the 
      Master Relay.
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495666#495666
      
      
       -
      S -
      WIKI -
       -
      =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
      
      
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
From: 
"dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
      
      
      Thanks Bob,
      
      >Is there a downloadable installation
      >manual for this engine that I could
      l>look at?
      
      Yes, attached is a scan of the manual from Revmaster associated with the electrical
      for the R2300.  My apologies for the "busy" drawing I previously posted.
      
      As one esteemed member also noted to me in a PM, the drawing I posted generated
      a lot of questions.  I will post a revised (hopefuly clearer) drawing tonight
      in an effort to make it a little clearer the circuit I am proposing.
      
      Thanks !
      
      --------
      Scratch building Sonex #1362
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495675#495675
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/revmatser_r_2300_manual_c__cdi_electrical_183.pdf
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
Rodney Hall <r.r.hall(at)cox.net>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      In most installations the master switch has to be energized before the starter
      solenoid can get power. If that is the case here shutting off the master would
      de-energize the starter.
      
      Rodney Hall
      
      
      > On April 7, 2020 at 1:32 PM Jeff Luckey  wrote:
      > 
      >     Hello Brooks,
      > 
      >     I have been watching some of your threads with interest.  You seem to be
      asking lots of good questions.
      > 
      >     I'm in the process of building an RV-7, currently working on the wings &
      fuel tanks.
      > 
      >     You wrote: 
      >     " I trust the architecture of your electrical system allows for a method
      to de-power the starter in the event that the Starter Relay fails with the starter
      on. "
      > 
      >     The answer is that I do not.  I consider the likelihood of a welded-shut
      start solenoid to be so rare as to not be a factor.  But I also don't use a traditional
      "tin-can" start solenoid.  I'm using a Ford start solenoid that has
      be optimized (by Ford sometime back in the 80's) specifically for the task of
      cranking engines.  I've heard them referred to as "pancake" solenoids.  They look
      like this:
      > 
      >     https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-F3914-Professional-Starter-Solenoid/dp/B000IYY3KQ/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=ford+starter+solenoid&qid=1586279687&sr=8-9 https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-F3914-Professional-Starter-Solenoid/dp/B000IYY3KQ/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=ford+starter+solenoid&qid=1586279687&sr=8-9
      > 
      >     Herein lies the beauty of OBAM aircraft:  we have the freedom to specify
      the parts we feel are better suited for a particular job.  So I have decided to
      use this start solenoid and, as I mentioned in previous post, the Bosch relay
      for my master as it has a much lower current draw (and has the coil fly-back
      diode built in).
      > 
      >     I have designed my own electrical system.  (In a former life, I worked as
      an engineer for vehicular power systems).  Attached is a schematic of my electrical
      system for your amusement.
      > 
      > 
      wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >     > My start solenoid is not downstream of the master relay, so it won't ever
      see starter current.
      >     >
      > 
      > 
      >     I'm interested how you have this wired.  I trust the architecture of your
      electrical system allows for a method to de-power the starter in the event that
      the Starter Relay fails with the starter on.  It seems to me like the normal
      way its done is by having start solenoid downstream of the Master Relay.
      > 
      >     --------
      >     Brooks Cone
      >     Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >     Read this topic online here:
      > 
      >     http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495666#495666
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >     http://www.matronics.com/Navigatonbsp;             - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -> http=              - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIiki.matronics.com" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
      >      http://forums.matronics.com
      >     http://www.matron==
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >      http://forums.matronics.com http://forums.matronics.com http://forums.matronics.com
      > 
        http://forums.matronics.com
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 04:09 PM 4/7/2020, you wrote:
      >In most installations the master switch has to be energized before 
      >the starter solenoid can get power. If that is the case here 
      >shutting off the master would de-energize the starter.
      >
      >Rodney Hall
      
         I'm pretty sure that's a requirement under the FARS
         for type certification
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
From: 
Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
       Bob,
      are you talking about the start solenoid coil circuit or the starter motor 
      circuit?
      
      -Jeff
      ckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:  
      
       At 04:09 PM 4/7/2020, you wrote:
      
      In most installations the masterswitch has to be energized before the start
      er solenoid can get power. Ifthat is the case here shutting off the master 
      would de-energize thestarter.
      
      Rodney Hall
      
      =C2- I'm pretty sure that's a requirement under the FARS
      =C2- for type certification
      
      
       =C2- Bob . . .
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
From: 
"dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
      
      
      Bob and all,
      
      I found at least one error that was surely misleading you into what I was up to.
      My apologies.  Attached is a version showing only the conventional aviation
      ignition switch and the (parallel) toggle switches for ignition ON/OFF.
      
      Hopefully this is a little easier to follow.
      
      So, there are two more switches that were previously shown (S10 and S11)  that
      are not shown in this version.  Those can be discussed once the initial circuit
      is digested (and without errors).
      
      Else, for all normal run-up testing, the conventional ignition switch could be
      used for starting and to test Left and Right (Top and Bottom) ignitions. That
      was my primary goal with all this, "to provide a more conventional start and run-up
      routine with the Revmaster ignition."
      
      For end of flight power down, after the engine is quieted with the fuel starvation
      and conventional ignition switch, the toggle switches would be used to insure
      the ignition is not "hot" when the main contactor is off.  Yes, my design
      relies on the "master on" to pull the P leads low.
      
      Maybe this is the primary weakness of the design, in that the pilot would disable
      the ignition with a separate action (the S2 and S3 toggles) after the conventional
      key, ignition switch is off.  
      
      As a side note, I don't think the internal ignition power coils (shown on the also
      attached voltage regulator circuit) will supply enough voltage to allow hand
      prop starting (making the toggles somewhat unnecessary).  The normal start
      circuit feeds battery voltage to the CDI ignition through the starter coil, to
      boost the staring voltage.
      
      Gosh, I hope I'm not making this explanation more confusing than necessary.
      
      Thanks to any and all who take the time to wade through my logic and diagrams
      
      Best regards,
      
      --------
      Scratch building Sonex #1362
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495685#495685
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/revmaster_voltage_regulators_190.pdf
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/revmaster_2300_r11b_ingnition_ckt_841.pdf
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 07, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      
      >>
      >>The answer is that I do not.  I consider the likelihood of a 
      >>welded-shut start solenoid to be so rare as to not be a 
      >>factor.  But I also don't use a traditional "tin-can" start 
      >>solenoid.  I'm using a Ford start solenoid that has be optimized 
      >>(by Ford sometime back in the 80's) specifically for the task of 
      >>cranking engines.  I've heard them referred to as "pancake" 
      >>solenoids.  They look like this:
      >>
      >>https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-F3914-Professional-Starter-Solenoid/dp/B000IYY3KQ/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=ford+starter+solenoid&qid=1586279687&sr=8-9 
      >>
      >>
      >>Herein lies the beauty of OBAM aircraft:  we have the freedom to 
      >>specify the parts we feel are better suited for a particular job.
      
         This form factor is common to countless
         offerings of starter contactors for DC
         vehicle cranking systems.
      
         I've done teardown inspections on NEW
         contactors and occasionally been disappointed
         to find less than consistent quality . . . who
         would have thunk it?
      
         When purchasing contactors, legacy name brands
         are the best bet. Or buy from folks like
         the AeroElectic Connection (lifetime satisfaction
         warranty) or B&C (will bend over backwards to
         keep you happy) and you'll get a product
         with a track record. Digikey et als only
         sell name brand parts supported by spec sheets
         NEVER offered by fly-by-night supplier/manufacturers
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      
      Hi Bob, This is my second reply to this thread. You did not answer my
      first reply, maybe you missed it.
      I like the Z01  architecture  but would also like Z12 to stay available.
      I have a dual AFS efis system and and an Avidyne 540 gps navigator.
      The AFS systems have primary and back up power inputs'
      The system will only boot when power is applied to the normal power
      input ports. The back up system is a TCW backup battery. It switches
      on when voltage drops below 13.1 volts.
      The backup system is on at all times that the engine is not running.
      The backup can be turned off via a switch that a ground wire passes
      through. So the system is in charge mode above 13.1 volts and below
      that voltage the standby is in output mode I turn the standby off when
      I power the master down and back on then I turn the master on.
              is means that the backup battery is only functioning as a
      brown out protection device. The Avidyne does not have separate backup
      power input ports.
      
      My question is whether the brown out booster shown in Z-01 is capable
      of powering two efis systems and a a gps navigator during engine
      start? If more information is needed please let me know what you would
      need to answer my question.  Thanks in advance. Don
      
      On Fri, Apr 3, 2020 at 12:22 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
       wrote:
      >
      > At 10:49 AM 4/3/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      > Moving this to the correct thread.  Anyone see any issues with Bob's new/proposed
      architecture for an IO-360 with one mag and one electronic ignition?  Would
      folks recommend the ignition be on the Battery bus?
      >
      > http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z99P1.pdf
      >
      >
      >   That was not so much a 'proposal' as the
      >   seed for the evolution of a replacement
      >   for Z12 . . . dual alternator, single battery,
      >   electrically dependent engine.
      >
      >   The Z99 was a first pass sketch that ultimately
      >   moved to the proposal/discussion stage
      >   with Z01.
      >
      >   Z01P3 as presently posted is the latest iteration
      >   and as Joe noted, still needs the 'nits' combed
      >   out.
      >
      > https://tinyurl.com/qnzenca
      >
      >   No bus requires more than powering up the aircraft
      >   with DC power master switch to become HOT. Any
      >   time the main bus is up, all busses are up
      >   irrespective the position of any other switch.
      >
      >   Given two, robust alternators, the endurance-
      >   bus function is unnecessary. There is no time
      >   that one might expect to operate battery
      >   only.
      >
      >   There is a 'brownout' bus which is optional
      >   and could be 'boosted' during cranking if
      >   the airplane is fitted with any electro-whizzies
      >   vulnerable to cranking brownout. At a minimum,
      >   this bus might power the #1 comm transceiver
      >   whereupon the crew controlled, alternate feed to this
      >   bus could be used to power up just that radio
      >   to get clearance delivery (an optional feature
      >   going into Bonanzas and Barons while I was
      >   still working there).
      >
      >   If the system supports no devices needing
      >   always hot battery power, the battery bus
      >   can also be eliminated. The minimalist
      >   configuration for Z01 would be a MAIN
      >   and ENGINE bus.
      >
      >   The engine bus also features an crew controlled,
      >   alternate feed directly from the battery. There
      >   is no single failure of the power system that
      >   would cause loss of engine.
      >
      >   There are only 4 switches of which only one
      >   has profound control over the status of ship's
      >   power. The other 3 are normally OFF pending
      >   failures that prompt reconfiguration.
      >
      >   Suggested accessories go to simplifying
      >   installation while minimizing costs
      >   and potential pilot workloads.
      >
      >   If the List is willing, I'd like to continue
      >   to refine this configuration with an eye
      >   to retiring Z12 and probably Z14 as well.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 09:51 PM 4/7/2020, you wrote:
      >Bob,
      >
      >are you talking about the start solenoid coil circuit or the starter 
      >motor circuit?
      >
      
         The spirit and intent of a crew controlled, master power
         disconnect feature is to make as much of the aircraft
         electrically cold when in the OFF position.
      
         As it was presented to me (many moons ago) the
         benefits were two-fold: (1) reduced risk for
         post-crash fire and (2) ground/maintenance safety -
         no chance for inadvertent motion of machinery
         or hazards sparks during maintenance ops.
      
         The exceptions called for feeders off the battery
         bus protected at no more than 5A.
      
         I've endeavored to embrace that philosophy.
         First as a requirement of my job (TC aircraft)
         and later (OBAM aircraft) because it was
         not a BAD idea. It was easy to implement
         and not a significant impediment to crafting
         elegant architectures.
      
         Z01 as currently proposed ties the aux
         alternator b-lead to the battery via
         fusible link. This sorta resurrects
         the old Z13/8 which 'bugged' me based
         on my professional experience. Nonetheless,
         an always-hot, aux alternator b-lead offered
         a way to simply implement the three-layered
         source philosophies of Z13/8 and Z13/20.
      
         I'm going to publish the 4th iteration
         of Z01 in the next few days. I've got
         a 7th grade grandson sheltering-in-place
         and spooling up online schooling. Man!
         I don't think I'd ever have the patience
         to wrestle with a room full of 7th
         graders! One is entirely enough!
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
      
      
      Don, it is up to the builder to choose suitable components.  eBay has several
       DC-DC converters (brown out boosters).  Most of them are made in China 
      and the product capabilities are greatly exaggerated.  The the advertised 
      rating might twice of the product's actual capacity.  Buyer beware.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495698#495698
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 02:05 AM 4/8/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >Hi Bob, This is my second reply to this thread. You did not answer my
      >first reply, maybe you missed it.
      
         sorry . . . yes
      
      >I like the Z01  architecture  but would also like Z12 to stay available.
      
          . . . Z12 isn't going to 'go away'. It simply moves
          down the hierarchy of preference for elegance in
          architecture. It may not appear in later editions of
          the 'Connecton but there's thousands of paper copies
          and unknown digital copies that will continue to illustrate
          and explain Z12. Elegance, like beauty, is in the
          eye of the beholder . . . if preferences depicted in
          my publications don't rise to your own standards
          for elegance . . . no problem! Except for the aux
          alternator b-lead terminator, Z01 is fundamentally
          identical to Z12.
      
      >I have a dual AFS efis system and and an Avidyne 540 gps navigator.
      >The AFS systems have primary and back up power inputs'
         
      
      
      >         is means that the backup battery is only functioning as a
      >brown out protection device. The Avidyne does not have separate backup
      >power input ports.
      >
      >My question is whether the brown out booster shown in Z-01 is capable
      >of powering two efis systems and a a gps navigator during engine
      >start? If more information is needed please let me know what you would
      >need to answer my question.
      
         The brownout booster is an off the shelf
         step up power supply which can be acquired
         in any needed size. What is the total running
         current for powered-up devices on your
         proposed brown-out bus?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      Thanks Bob and Joe. I did not know these devices are available. I thought
      it was something Bob had designed. My bad. I will need to look up the
      measured currents for the two EFIS's and the Avidyne navigator.  Again,
      thanks for the help and the numbers will follow in a few days.
      Don
      
      On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 10:43 user9253  wrote:
      
      >
      > Don, it is up to the builder to choose suitable components.  eBay has
      > several
      >  DC-DC converters (brown out boosters).  Most of them are made in China
      > and the product capabilities are greatly exaggerated.  The the advertised
      > rating might twice of the product's actual capacity.  Buyer beware.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495698#495698
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
      
      
      Why not eliminate the toggle switches and relays and only use the mag switch?
       It seems that more components will increase the chances of ignition failure.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495704#495704
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 01:47 PM 4/8/2020, you wrote:
      >Thanks Bob and Joe. I did not know these devices 
      >are available. I thought it was something Bob 
      >had designed. My bad. I will need to look up the 
      >measured currents for the two EFIS's and the 
      >Avidyne navigator.=C2  Again, thanks for the help 
      >and the numbers will follow in a few days.
      >Don
      
         When you've got those numbers, let me
         dig through the samples I have on hand.
         We may just have the device you need.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
      
      At 06:49 PM 4/8/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >Why not eliminate the toggle switches and relays and only use the mag switch?
      >  It seems that more components will increase the chances of ignition failure.
      
        From the installation literature I surmise that
        this engine has a rather comprehensive ign-test
        protocol orchestrated with various combinations
        of the four modules being OFF/ON. It lets you
        detect a failure of any single ignition module
        out of eight . . . rather clever . . . but
        it sho doesn't play nice with your grandpa's
        keyswitch!
      
        I've been stirring the murky options but
        haven't had a eureka moment . . . but
        to be sure, adding relays is waayyy down
        on the list of options. This makes the engine
        electrically dependent if only to gracefully
        orchestrate OFF-PREFLIGHT-RUN conditions.
      
        Methinks a DC-Free control system is much to
        be desired.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
From: 
"dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
      
      
      Thanks for the response Joe,
      
      >Why not eliminate the toggle switches and relays and only use the mag >switch?
      >It seems that more components will increase the chances of ignition failure
      
      Agreed, but the Revmaster requires 4 individual "pull to ground" switches.  All
      aviation switches available only have two "P" lead circuits, right?
      
      Two 700- 2-3 switches achieve the Revmaster requirement/suggestion for four - single
      pole switches.  That is how I originally drew the ckt.   
      
      Two more 700-2-7 provided the circuits to execute their diagnostic routine described
      in the write up (shown in the last version I posted).
      
      The simple thing is to use the 4 switches for the ignition, have a key switch if
      I felt the need (for false security) to power the start circuit only (no mag
      check through the key) and just a simple push button start.  Like the C120 I
      flew for my tail wheel endorsement.  
      
      It always made me grumble when I would go to start the 120 and rotate the key switch
      to engage the starter, with the only noise I would hear was my tail wheel
      instructor chuckling under his breath because I forgot it had a push button
      start (again).
      
      Yes, adding the relays and implementing a scheme to have it "behave" like a traditional
      magneto ignition may be a little too cute.  Assuming it would operate
      reliably.
      
      Thanks once again for your time and consideration.
      
      --------
      Scratch building Sonex #1362
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495707#495707
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      Thank you.
      
      On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 17:13 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      > At 01:47 PM 4/8/2020, you wrote:
      >
      > Thanks Bob and Joe. I did not know these devices are available. I thought
      > it was something Bob had designed. My bad. I will need to look up the
      > measured currents for the two EFIS's and the Avidyne navigator.=C3=82  Ag
      ain,
      > thanks for the help and the numbers will follow in a few days.
      > Don
      >
      >
      >   When you've got those numbers, let me
      >   dig through the samples I have on hand.
      >   We may just have the device you need.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Tim Jennings <tjennings07(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
Subject: 
RE: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C alternator
      controllers
      
      I appreciate everyone's help weighing in on my led conversion but
      unfortunately the solution
      http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg did not yield
      a working result.  On the bench the prescribed setup with the resistors and
      led will light glow with less than 12 volts.
      
      This is the what I installed using (2) 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistors:
      https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1QipO48K-4aac4ebIgVK0cW2M1K4pc6PHraYVAbI1-/photo/AF1QipOu4ngJUoHPeIDtJfU9exkR_yqEuci58p2X84yy
      
      Meter across the leads south of resistors:
      https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1QipO48K-4aac4ebIgVK0cW2M1K4pc6PHraYVAbI1-/photo/AF1QipNqgRle3wwH-JKK5UUHj96cDbfPjq7Atb2JyfnZ
      
      The incandescent bulb glows fine when installed, unplug the incandescent
      lamp and plug the led/resistors into the circuit and NO light.
      
      Please help!
      
      Thanks,
      
      Tim Jennings
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Pat Little <roughleg(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      Bob, I'm surprised by your suggestion to " buy from folks like the
      AeroElectic Connection" - I have been reading in "the book" and many of
      your web articles about products the Aeroelectric Connection sold - but it
      all seemed to be in the past. I say that because I haven't been able to
      find any of these products on your website. But now you said it in a recent
      email so it must be true - how do I order form you?
      Pat
      
      On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 9:59 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
      nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
      
      
      
      
      >   When purchasing contactors, legacy name brands
      >   are the best bet. Or buy from folks like
      >   the AeroElectic Connection (lifetime satisfaction
      >   warranty) or B&C (will bend over backwards to
      >   keep you happy) and you'll get a product
      >   with a track record. Digikey et als only
      >   sell name brand parts supported by spec sheets
      >   NEVER offered by fly-by-night supplier/manufacturers
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C alternator
      controller
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 08, 2020
      
      
      photos don't work
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495716#495716
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Tim Jennings <tjennings07(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C alternator
      controller
      
      I appreciate everyone's help weighing in on my led conversion but
      unfortunately the solution
      http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg did not yield
      a working result.  On the bench the prescribed setup with the resistors and
      led will light glow with less than 12 volts.
      
      The incandescent bulb glows fine when installed, unplug the incandescent
      lamp and plug the led/resistors into the circuit and NO light.
      
      Please help!
      
      Thanks,
      
      Tim Jennings
      
      How about these pictures?
      
      
      This is the what I installed using (2) 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistors:
      https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipNK32NGafJYbg6dvBvLBopP_KdKv1CLJZ0
      5c_A8
      
      https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wMS_B-y6-B0am4bi6bE3O_KqChOxjxmimix14oI6e
      LUN02qKtgkCL2x3obztPBLACHOM2rbBzGMcnGj6bVwwIWfZKFZF-Ekcgczs8EyeUHhR5lZBk_P5
      epwRy7KRbrhrGsf-jfwMdzl0NRXTy-h62Kp7DPu9W1Mn5-TA1uUYpL3x-YmZtbQwG9AXLkLwgeK
      -pWXea8I_ggU3Hn2x8wmDk6IQR9cIFABHRQpnHk4RtbVAR0BrV98dHgmRvsX7Whbpi0saL0eUCW
      NMmhZCI3KkMjd65skCd88ro6T9angjb4rj94D3PuRetSJdtBAK7urwvtcsqPxtAeBbgmlouDnMM
      ZmautUfcVtMKxnW-iwLxraXG9ybDb9LzUtcKYf_IybpBdFBmXuR9OLyk-gr6F0ARe1RgUjWGi21
      e27RCEKK5AgXYyrZjoCDsBz5bBKztCOTwINgvvrVBTG-NgkiQiVawtog_nrwnYPXViFZ9oRCmIK
      V0YOxf9sSZ46T-sxonZTpgOwqsg3uRUoU38xuuM6pPk_4FlK-MxMqqfVmgLg3bhW0RpA80R-JKX
      msHeZK14gpFVkzUG1hCHHXg060_odm85l7ygIXnzzmKvhojYeA7UFEKw-rBusHqBduE_qTC14mz
      XdzzLK29fR2Y_SJmblPioBCGmtS13yKYk0esRzrfYO675Ov6RL6iVsdHpkHZQ=w710-h200-n
      o
      
      Meter across the leads south of resistors:
      https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1QipO48K-4aac4ebIgVK0cW2M1K4pc6PHraYV
      AbI1-/photo/AF1QipNqgRle3wwH-JKK5UUHj96cDbfPjq7Atb2JyfnZ
      
      
      https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9tbMw3NPq8IsfZ9hjM0Iu1xIoyRJ7aecZFLFw-0Rc
      27QR32ikB4a4L5uqRHekoHwTVgbfRPnUarqibjen5SHt7DU-VxpKNx8CNZquN2j_fARKqozu2fX
      oLNAGBctBUXR5nFroGtUf-3yzL_JqLCaaR5EE2iXKR-9F0JiP6_e80TzCT0NxD7u9DZhWl2WwVF
      aNBmZFmZwo8jibKpBmnYOy5SE587u-7tRs7191KQ1UERM8W5UqSMQJpABV4NlG-bTcry3GVzDvt
      ALj2V7UjwRswhODla89rqjoM4tkTCIV-9mJsMm8KwxOCOUqD2hH9nTMAHjhGirEgzGp-3OpRCgX
      vkzQBusode5Z6dQYHFwke3Mm-cawo5NJ2rJ12T0Ao3Z7mJxKXi8Jz9jIF2Xe3H5qN4ldc37x2IK
      KwzKX7AMSfdGppkVbimzEU1-E_Q9WhCAcEbkn_tdfm4d1Bdga-T4mp_NAGEmcStBAvoCkEcaVIq
      btTvaRe2p8MTcKDeYvNh2a12-NVJ3ZfLegnCOPBedJwT5ImpfAvp9POv3IU8dQ8Irf_8Y5O5Tey
      Z3EajGLUja_igqBNkIxEAVRtYWVSe_vPHHilXLdNBnsf0rmnCK8mDTu5b2TLNvE3_UqCP0EotZS
      gmRurSSaoG6EIEKtpt1EJHpeawDpEFx3tiJgn6B10MopcKSrgRGTsCIZgFLtw=w453-h930-n
      o
      
      
      >
      >
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C
      > alternator
      > controller
      > From: "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
      >
      >
      > photos don't work
      >
      > --------
      > John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      > Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      > john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495716#495716
      >
      >
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      >
      >
      
      -- 
      *- Tim Jennings*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Tim Jennings <tjennings07(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C alternator
      controller
      
      I appreciate everyone's help weighing in on my led conversion but
      unfortunately the solution
      http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg did not yield
      a working result.  On the bench the prescribed setup with the resistors and
      led will light glow with less than 12 volts.
      
      The incandescent bulb glows fine when installed, unplug the incandescent
      lamp and plug the led/resistors into the circuit and NO light.
      
      Please help!
      
      Thanks,
      
      Tim Jennings
      
      How about these pictures?
      
      
      This is the what I installed using (2) 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistors:
      https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipNK32NGafJYbg6dvBvLBopP_KdKv1CLJZ0
      5c_A8
      
      https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wMS_B-y6-B0am4bi6bE3O_KqChOxjxmimix14oI6e
      LUN02qKtgkCL2x3obztPBLACHOM2rbBzGMcnGj6bVwwIWfZKFZF-Ekcgczs8EyeUHhR5lZBk_P5
      epwRy7KRbrhrGsf-jfwMdzl0NRXTy-h62Kp7DPu9W1Mn5-TA1uUYpL3x-YmZtbQwG9AXLkLwgeK
      -pWXea8I_ggU3Hn2x8wmDk6IQR9cIFABHRQpnHk4RtbVAR0BrV98dHgmRvsX7Whbpi0saL0eUCW
      NMmhZCI3KkMjd65skCd88ro6T9angjb4rj94D3PuRetSJdtBAK7urwvtcsqPxtAeBbgmlouDnMM
      ZmautUfcVtMKxnW-iwLxraXG9ybDb9LzUtcKYf_IybpBdFBmXuR9OLyk-gr6F0ARe1RgUjWGi21
      e27RCEKK5AgXYyrZjoCDsBz5bBKztCOTwINgvvrVBTG-NgkiQiVawtog_nrwnYPXViFZ9oRCmIK
      V0YOxf9sSZ46T-sxonZTpgOwqsg3uRUoU38xuuM6pPk_4FlK-MxMqqfVmgLg3bhW0RpA80R-JKX
      msHeZK14gpFVkzUG1hCHHXg060_odm85l7ygIXnzzmKvhojYeA7UFEKw-rBusHqBduE_qTC14mz
      XdzzLK29fR2Y_SJmblPioBCGmtS13yKYk0esRzrfYO675Ov6RL6iVsdHpkHZQ=w710-h200-n
      o
      
      Meter across the leads south of resistors:
      https://photos.google.com/u/1/album/AF1QipO48K-4aac4ebIgVK0cW2M1K4pc6PHraYV
      AbI1-/photo/AF1QipNqgRle3wwH-JKK5UUHj96cDbfPjq7Atb2JyfnZ
      
      
      https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9tbMw3NPq8IsfZ9hjM0Iu1xIoyRJ7aecZFLFw-0Rc
      27QR32ikB4a4L5uqRHekoHwTVgbfRPnUarqibjen5SHt7DU-VxpKNx8CNZquN2j_fARKqozu2fX
      oLNAGBctBUXR5nFroGtUf-3yzL_JqLCaaR5EE2iXKR-9F0JiP6_e80TzCT0NxD7u9DZhWl2WwVF
      aNBmZFmZwo8jibKpBmnYOy5SE587u-7tRs7191KQ1UERM8W5UqSMQJpABV4NlG-bTcry3GVzDvt
      ALj2V7UjwRswhODla89rqjoM4tkTCIV-9mJsMm8KwxOCOUqD2hH9nTMAHjhGirEgzGp-3OpRCgX
      vkzQBusode5Z6dQYHFwke3Mm-cawo5NJ2rJ12T0Ao3Z7mJxKXi8Jz9jIF2Xe3H5qN4ldc37x2IK
      KwzKX7AMSfdGppkVbimzEU1-E_Q9WhCAcEbkn_tdfm4d1Bdga-T4mp_NAGEmcStBAvoCkEcaVIq
      btTvaRe2p8MTcKDeYvNh2a12-NVJ3ZfLegnCOPBedJwT5ImpfAvp9POv3IU8dQ8Irf_8Y5O5Tey
      Z3EajGLUja_igqBNkIxEAVRtYWVSe_vPHHilXLdNBnsf0rmnCK8mDTu5b2TLNvE3_UqCP0EotZS
      gmRurSSaoG6EIEKtpt1EJHpeawDpEFx3tiJgn6B10MopcKSrgRGTsCIZgFLtw=w453-h930-n
      o
      
      
      >
      >
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C
      > alternator
      > controller
      > From: "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
      >
      >
      > photos don't work
      >
      > --------
      > John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      > Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      > john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495716#495716
      >
      >
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      >
      >
      
      -- 
      *- Tim Jennings*
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C alternator
      controller
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
      
      
      Hi Tim,
      
      Sorry to say the photo links still do not work, at least for me. You could attach
      them to a posting on Aeroelectric List or this instruction might help... scroll
      to "create a shared album" and "send a link to share".
      
      https://support.google.com/photos/answer/6131416?co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop&hl=en
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495721#495721
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Tim Jennings <tjennings07(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
Subject: 
Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 04/08/20
      
      Thanks John.
      
      How about now.  I  feel like the Verizon commercial. Haha
      
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHpuxEwpKpTNisEaA
      
      
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/N1kTbHUFfKQAqgFf7
      
      
      >
      >
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C
      > alternator
      > controller
      > From: "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
      >
      >
      > photos don't work
      >
      > --------
      > John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      > Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      > john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495716#495716
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Tim Jennings <tjennings07(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
Subject: 
Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 04/08/20
      
      Thanks John.
      
      How about now.  I  feel like the Verizon commercial. Haha
      
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHpuxEwpKpTNisEaA
      
      
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/N1kTbHUFfKQAqgFf7
      
      
      >
      >
      > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C
      > alternator
      > controller
      > From: "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
      >
      >
      > photos don't work
      >
      > --------
      > John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      > Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      > john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495716#495716
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion for   B&C alternator
      controller
      
      At 06:36 AM 4/9/2020, you wrote:
      >I appreciate everyone's help weighing in on my led conversion but
      >unfortunately the solution
      ><http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg>http://aeroel
      ectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg=C2 
      >did not yield
      >a working result.=C2  On the bench the prescribed setup with the resistors
       and
      >led will light glow with less than 12 volts.=C2 =C2
      >
      >The incandescent bulb glows fine when installed, unplug the incandescent
      >lamp and plug the led/resistors into the circuit and NO light.
      
         Is your lamp wired correctly? An LED is
         polarity sensitive. Try swapping your
         lamp/resistor array wires . . .
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
New Design Schemes and Brownout Operation
From: 
"wsimpso1" <wsimpso1(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
      
      
      I am a pretty good mechanical engineer, but electrics, well, please bear with me
      as I learn.
      
      Designing up my IFR electrics system, 2 Dynon displays and associated bits, Avidyne,
      LED lighting, I was all set to go Z-14. Now Bob is talking new scheme to
      be lighter, easier to build, maintain, and fly. I do not feel like I can really
      judge what is needed and not, how to pick, etc. Done the reading, just not
      experienced...
      
      In the process, I have figured out that I need 30 amps continuous to turn on everything
      and a few more amps to transmit. Hey, there are alternators at B&C that
      can make Plan B just turn on the standby alternator and motor on. Cool! 
      
      Now to getting it cranked up without rebooting the electro-whizzies. Dynon makes
      backup batteries. Avidyne has yet to answer on how they prefer to avoid brownout
      reboots. Then we have brownout bus designs with relays and even have advice
      to use DC-DC converters to keep 12VDC at the boxes. Remember, I am an ME, my
      electric savvy is puny. Given the current state of knowledge, are we better
      off with a 7-10 AH battery and the brownout bus or with the boosters, or even
      both? Anybody have some brands and model numbers that are known to be pretty reliable
      for these DC-DC gadgets?
      
      With the stated 10,000 hour life of these alternators, maybe I should say two on
      them plus the battery is enough and stop there. But let's say both are dead,
      and I need an hour to get to a suitable approach. I can cut off the outside lights
      and pitot heat, but the I gotta drive one Dynon, the Avidyne and the transponder
      someway. Sounds like a good argument for a brownout battery that is an
      infrastructure item rather than having backup batteries for each of several
      boxes. Or does the FMEA score better with several independant backup batteries?
      Seems better to have one COTS battery, relay, and switch than a bunch of propitiatory
      batteries...
      
      Billski
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495724#495724
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Curiosity Re: Master Switch
From: 
"bcone1381" <bcone1964(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
      
      
      In the  Aeroelectric Connection Book has notes on Master Switches. (age Z11, Note
      22)  I'm curious, if an engine of not running, and the field switch to the
      alternator is on, how much draw is there?  
      
      It seems to me like the bus is at 12V, and the Regulator sees 12V and wont be satisfied
      until the bus is at 14V, but the regulator does not see that the engine
      is not running and the alternator is not turning so I would think it want to
      open up its throttle to wide open to try to get 14 V.  And so it seems to me
      like there would be a rather large draw.
      
      I don't think me logic is right.  School me.
      
      --------
      Brooks Cone
      Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495725#495725
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Foghorn Inc <foghorn757(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: New Design Schemes and Brownout Operation
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
      
      Bill,
      
      Here is my electrical plan. I have SDS EFI, GRT Sport EX x 2, GPS175, 
      EIS and GTR-200 x 2. The SDS EFI runs from the ENG BUS. The GRTs get 
      primary power from the VP-X and secondary power from the E-BUS. The #2 
      GTR-200, GPS175, EIS, Stratus, GMA240, encoder and ARINC get power from 
      the E-BUS. The number one priority is to keep the ENG BUS and E-BUS 
      alive for continued emergency flight IFR.
      
      
      Jeff Parker
      
      
      > On 9Apr, 2020, at 09:39, wsimpso1  wrote:
      > 
      
      > 
      > I am a pretty good mechanical engineer, but electrics, well, please 
      bear with me as I learn.
      > 
      > Designing up my IFR electrics system, 2 Dynon displays and associated 
      bits, Avidyne, LED lighting, I was all set to go Z-14. Now Bob is 
      talking new scheme to be lighter, easier to build, maintain, and fly. I 
      do not feel like I can really judge what is needed and not, how to pick, 
      etc. Done the reading, just not experienced...
      > 
      > In the process, I have figured out that I need 30 amps continuous to 
      turn on everything and a few more amps to transmit. Hey, there are 
      alternators at B&C that can make Plan B just turn on the standby 
      alternator and motor on. Cool! 
      > 
      > Now to getting it cranked up without rebooting the electro-whizzies. 
      Dynon makes backup batteries. Avidyne has yet to answer on how they 
      prefer to avoid brownout reboots. Then we have brownout bus designs with 
      relays and even have advice to use DC-DC converters to keep 12VDC at the 
      boxes. Remember, I am an ME, my electric savvy is puny. Given the 
      current state of knowledge, are we better off with a 7-10 AH battery and 
      the brownout bus or with the boosters, or even both? Anybody have some 
      brands and model numbers that are known to be pretty reliable for these 
      DC-DC gadgets?
      > 
      > With the stated 10,000 hour life of these alternators, maybe I should 
      say two on them plus the battery is enough and stop there. But let's say 
      both are dead, and I need an hour to get to a suitable approach. I can 
      cut off the outside lights and pitot heat, but the I gotta drive one 
      Dynon, the Avidyne and the transponder someway. Sounds like a good 
      argument for a brownout battery that is an infrastructure item rather 
      than having backup batteries for each of several boxes. Or does the FMEA 
      score better with several independant backup batteries? Seems better to 
      have one COTS battery, relay, and switch than a bunch of propitiatory 
      batteries...
      > 
      > Billski
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495724#495724
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
David Saylor <saylor.dave(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Curiosity Re: Master Switch
      
      My PlanePower alternator tries its best to make voltage with the engine
      stopped.  It pumps enough current through the field to make the alternator
      case hot enough to blister my fingers.  Literally.  But without any
      mechanical input, of course the output just stays at battery voltage.
      
      The draw isn't enough to pop the 5A field circuit breaker.  But the case
      does get pretty hot.  I'm sure the lack of cooling air is a factor as well.
      
      --Dave
      
      On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 9:09 AM bcone1381  wrote:
      
      >
      > In the  Aeroelectric Connection Book has notes on Master Switches. (age
      > Z11, Note 22)  I'm curious, if an engine of not running, and the field
      > switch to the alternator is on, how much draw is there?
      >
      > It seems to me like the bus is at 12V, and the Regulator sees 12V and wont
      > be satisfied until the bus is at 14V, but the regulator does not see that
      > the engine is not running and the alternator is not turning so I would
      > think it want to open up its throttle to wide open to try to get 14 V.  And
      > so it seems to me like there would be a rather large draw.
      >
      > I don't think me logic is right.  School me.
      >
      > --------
      > Brooks Cone
      > Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495725#495725
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Curiosity Re: Master Switch
      
      Here is a graph of a typical shutdown. You can see the draw from the
      battery go from about 10.5 to 9 when the alternator switch is selected off
      after shutdown. We have seen the alternator field draw as much as 3A and
      the builder noted that the alternator itself gets very hot if left on for a
      while with the engine not running. For this reason we don't turn the
      alternator on until after engine start and turn it off right after shutdown.
      
      On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 9:09 AM bcone1381  wrote:
      
      >
      > In the  Aeroelectric Connection Book has notes on Master Switches. (age
      > Z11, Note 22)  I'm curious, if an engine of not running, and the field
      > switch to the alternator is on, how much draw is there?
      >
      > It seems to me like the bus is at 12V, and the Regulator sees 12V and wont
      > be satisfied until the bus is at 14V, but the regulator does not see that
      > the engine is not running and the alternator is not turning so I would
      > think it want to open up its throttle to wide open to try to get 14 V.  And
      > so it seems to me like there would be a rather large draw.
      >
      > I don't think me logic is right.  School me.
      >
      > --------
      > Brooks Cone
      > Bearhawk Patrol Kit Build
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495725#495725
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New Design Schemes and Brownout Operation
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
      
      
      The simpler the electrical system is, the better.  It will easier to understand
      
      and build.  It will cost less and weigh less.  And there will be less chance of
      
      failure or pilot error.  So add features that you need, but not those that you
      
      might need.  However, there should be a plan B for any failure.
      A DC-DC converter used for brownout protection seems like a good idea. 
      I do not know if anyone has actually installed one yet.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495730#495730
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
John <rv6a(at)rogers.com>
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion for   B&C
      alternator controller
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
      
      =EF=BB
      =EF=BB
      This is the sketch I received from B&C this winter when I asked about doing t
      he same. Not sure if there is any difference from what is shown in your link
       below.
      
      
      Regards,
      John
      >> On Apr 9, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroele
      ctric.com> wrote:
      > =EF=BB At 06:36 AM 4/9/2020, you wrote:
      >> I appreciate everyone's help weighing in on my led conversion but
      >> unfortunately the solution
      >> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Schematics/LR3_LV_Led_1.jpg=C3=82 did no
      t yield
      >> a working result.=C3=82  On the bench the prescribed setup with the resis
      tors and
      >> led will light glow with less than 12 volts.=C3=82 =C3=82 
      >> 
      >> The incandescent bulb glows fine when installed, unplug the incandescent
      >> lamp and plug the led/resistors into the circuit and NO light.
      > 
      >   Is your lamp wired correctly? An LED is
      >   polarity sensitive. Try swapping your
      >   lamp/resistor array wires . . .
      > 
      > 
      ==========================
      ==========================
      ==========================
      ==========================
      ==========================
      ==========================
      ======================
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Curiosity Re: Master Switch
      
      At 11:00 AM 4/9/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >In the  Aeroelectric Connection Book has notes on Master Switches. 
      >(age Z11, Note 22)
      >I'm curious, if an engine of not running, and the field switch to 
      >the alternator
      >is on, how much draw is there?
      
         2-3 amps
      
      >It seems to me like the bus is at 12V, and the Regulator sees 12V and wont be
      >satisfied until the bus is at 14V, but the regulator does not see that
      >the engine is not running and the alternator is not turning so I would
      >think it want to open up its throttle to wide open to try to get 14 V.
      >And so it seems to me like there would be a rather large draw.
      >
      >I don't think me logic is right.  School me.
      
         your analysis is correct. The regulator
         will go to full-bore which connects the
         field (~4 ohms) to the battery.
      
         This is the reason for a progressive transfer
         DC master switch . . . it lets you power
         up battery-only while leaving the alternator
         off. This reduces battery loads for ground
         ops. It also reduces potential for damage
         to field windings being fully excited without
         benefit of cooling air.
      
         In operation, field current will be on the
         order of 1 amp.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Curiosity Re: Master Switch
      
      
      >
      >The draw isn't enough to pop the 5A field circuit breaker.
      >But the case does get pretty hot. I'm sure the lack of cooling
      >air is a factor as well.
      
         Correct. If you don't have a split rocker or
         progressive transfer toggle switch for the
         master, then it's advisable to pull the
         field breaker for ground ops.
      
         Some of the z-figures used to suggest
         a simpler, easier to acquire, DPST
         master switch COMBINED with a pullable
         field breaker.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion   for   B&C
      alternator controller
      
      At 12:31 PM 4/9/2020, you wrote:
      >This is the sketch I received from B&C this winter when I asked about
      >doing the same. Not sure if there is any difference from what is 
      >shown in your link below.
      
         That's an earlier incarnation of the same
         configuration first published about
         20 years ago . . . I updated the drawing
         to include both  BARE BULB LED and 12V ANNUNCIATOR
         assemblies already fitted with a series
         resistor for 12v operation.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New Design Schemes and Brownout   Operation
      
      At 11:06 AM 4/9/2020, you wrote:
      >Bill,
      >
      >Here is my electrical plan. I have SDS EFI, GRT Sport EX x 2, 
      >GPS175, EIS and GTR-200 x 2. The SDS EFI runs from the ENG BUS. The 
      >GRTs get primary power from the VP-X and secondary power from the 
      >E-BUS. The #2 GTR-200, GPS175, EIS, Stratus, GMA240, encoder and 
      >ARINC get power from the E-BUS. The number one priority is to keep 
      >the ENG BUS and E-BUS alive for continued emergency flight IFR.
      >
      
         Looks pretty much like Z01  . . .
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      At 10:19 PM 4/8/2020, you wrote:
      >Bob, I'm surprised by your suggestion to "=C2 buy from folks like
      >the AeroElectic Connection" - I have been reading in "the book"
      >and many of your web articles about products the Aeroelectric
      >Connection sold - but it all seemed to be in the past. I say that
      >because I haven't been able to find any of these products on
      >your website. But now you said it in a recent email so it must
      >be true - how do I order form you?
      
         Sorry 'bout that . . . I didn't mean to infer that
         we were still in the parts business. Sold that
         part of our operations when Dr. Dee started
         graduate school!
      
         The thrust of the post was to look suppliers
         of both HARDWARE and INFORMATION who have
         proven track records. There are hundreds
         of manufacturers for 'starter contactors'
         the majority of which are probably fine for our
         purposes . . . failure of a starter contactor
         is a low-risk inconvenience. But if you're
         disposed to worry about it then going
         to proven sources for your part selection
         should help . . .
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New Design Schemes and Brownout Operation
From: 
"wsimpso1" <wsimpso1(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
      
      
      I shall repeat my questions without the distracting associated information:
      
      Given the current state of knowledge, do we appear to be better off with a 7-10
      AH battery on a brownout bus or with the boosters, or even both? 
      
      Anybody have some brands and model numbers that are known to be reliable for these
      DC-DC gadgets that could be used as brownout boosters?
      
      Which gives better reliability (scores better on FMEA) for backup power - backup
      batteries on the individual boxes or a single battery, switch, and relay?
      
      Billski
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495738#495738
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 09, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: New Design Schemes and Brownout   Operation
      
      At 07:08 PM 4/9/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >Given the current state of knowledge, do we appear to be better
      >off with a 7-10 AH battery on a brownout bus or with the boosters,
      >or even both?
      
         a battery supported brown-out bus is not
         terribly elegant. The energy needed to
         support the 'victim' electro-whizzies
         is minuscule . . . 15V output at say
         6A for (heaven forbid!) 10 Seconds
         is a total of 900 Watt-Seconds. An
         8 a.h. bat discharged at the same rate
         is good for about an HOUR for about
         300,000 Watt-Seconds. Further, it
         weighs about 8 pounds and has a
         short service life.
      
         A booster will happily deliver
         to the necessary load with a
         weight penalty of less than 1
         pound and a service life that probably
         exceeds the life of the airplane.
      
      >Anybody have some brands and model numbers that
      >are known to be reliable for these DC-DC gadgets
      >that could be used as brownout boosters?
      
         These are not safety of flight
         items. They are used for mere seconds
         at the beginning of each flight . . .
         failure to perform only means that
         potential brown-out victims will
         reset after engine start and continue
         to work normally. Ergo, failure of
         the device is at worst an inconvenience
         requiring some attention when you get back
         to your home field.
      
      >Which gives better reliability (scores better on FMEA)
      >for backup power - backup batteries on the individual
      >boxes or a single battery, switch, and relay?
      
         These are not BACKUP POWER . . . they
         are a band-aid sadly needed because
         some popular electro-whizzies did
         didn't take DO160 qualification testing
         to heart and make their product
         brown-out resistant -OR- capable of
         fast reboot . . . like 1-2 seconds.
      
         Internal or external BACKUP batteries
         called out by suppliers are yet another
         band-aid. The supplier of every really
         cool gizmo wants to believe that it's
         always going to be there for you. They
         correctly observe that they have no
         control over YOUR choices for architecture.
         So, the safe thing to do from a marketing
         perspective is to include internal
         backup battery or call for an external
         backup battery in their installation
         recommendations.
      
         The downside is the same as cited above
         for brown-out bus support. They're
         a limited life product that demands
         preventative maintenance for continue
         airworthiness . . .
      
         The discussions going to refinement
         of Z01 strive to achieve bullet-proof
         power sources not only for the really
         slick electro-whizzies . . . but ALL
         accessories needed for comfortable
         termination of flight.
      
         I suggest that goal can be achieved
         with ONE . . . count 'em . . . ONE
         well cared for battery and up to two
         modern offerings for engine driven
         power sources.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Incandescent to led conversion for B&C alternator
      contro
From: 
"Eric M. Jones" <emjones(at)charter.net>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      ...cough...cough...snort...gasp...
      
      Not me but everywhere else. There are zombies staggering up the street. So I might
      pay more attention to what is going on here.
      
      I have this schematic of changing the Alternator light from incandescent to led.
      It isn't mine, and I neither know where it came from or if it works. But it looks
      cool.
      
      --------
      Eric M. Jones
      www.PerihelionDesign.com
      113 Brentwood Drive
      Southbridge, MA 01550
      (508) 764-2072
      emjones(at)charter.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495743#495743
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/alternator_led_600.pdf
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/alternator_led_140.pdf
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      Greetings Fellow Covidners!!!!
      
      I hope you all are going well and keeping the curve flat by not being on the
      curve.
      
      Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement solder on phones jack?
      
      I have a Bose A20 headset and the phones plug is acting up.  It does not
      appear that the metal on the plug is tarnished and the symptom is that the
      audio I hear is garbled and intermittent.  
      
      I have the headset power switch turned off and the battery removed so the
      fancy electronics in the unit are not the culprit.  When testing the phones
      I have used different airplanes and different jacks and when I  pinch in and
      wiggle around at the base of the plug where the wires enter the phone jack
      the audio comes in crystal clear.
      
      So I think that the wires where they are soldered onto the terminals inside
      the plug are bad however I cannot re-solder them on because the phones jack
      is molded on plastic.unlike the good olde David Clarke that had the unscrew
      phones body.
      
      So does anyone have a recommended replacement jack.and.when I do cut off the
      cable and strip the wires what color wire will go to what lug on the
      replacement plug?
      
      THANKS for your help and stay Corona free (referencing the virus and not the
      beer)!!!
      
      Bill
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: King KT - 76 Transponder "Reply" light question....
From: 
"EricWalker" <gapadivi(at)appmail24.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      Medtronics is framed for the help and assistance for all weakened items for humans. The procedure of the [url=https://www.bestessayservicereviews.com/essay-writing/cheapwritingservice-review/]cheapwritingservice[/url] is marked for the challenges. The thought process of the Medtronics is linked for the attackers. The round of appreciation is marked for the smoothness of life.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495745#495745
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      Strip the outer insulation of the cable a couple of inches from the plug.  
      Before cutting each individual wire inside of the cable, mark them somehow, 
      unless they are already color coded.  Cut the wires.  Use an ohmmeter to 
      determine which wire is connected to which plug contact, ring or tip or barrel.
      
      Armed with that information, you should be able to wire the new plug.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495746#495746
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
From: 
Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      I'd call Bose. I've had them gladly fix things before, even once out of 
      warranty.
      They have top notch support.
      Tim
      
      On 4/10/2020 12:14 PM, user9253 wrote:
      >
      > Strip the outer insulation of the cable a couple of inches from the plug.
      > Before cutting each individual wire inside of the cable, mark them somehow,
      > unless they are already color coded.  Cut the wires.  Use an ohmmeter to
      > determine which wire is connected to which plug contact, ring or tip or barrel.
      > Armed with that information, you should be able to wire the new plug.
      >
      > --------
      > Joe Gores
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495746#495746
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      Alternatively, cut the plug off a couple of inches from the end, and strip the
      wires in the plug end to check continuity to the Tip, Ring, Sleeve.
      
      
      On Apr 10, 2020, at 1:14 PM, user9253  wrote:
      
      
      Strip the outer insulation of the cable a couple of inches from the plug.  
      Before cutting each individual wire inside of the cable, mark them somehow, 
      unless they are already color coded.  Cut the wires.  Use an ohmmeter to 
      determine which wire is connected to which plug contact, ring or tip or barrel.
      
      Armed with that information, you should be able to wire the new plug.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495746#495746
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      On 4/10/2020 11:25 AM, billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com wrote:
      >
      > Greetings Fellow Covidners!!!!
      >
      > I hope you all are going well and keeping the curve flat by not being 
      > on the curve
      >
      > Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement solder on phones jack?
      >
      > I have a Bose A20 headset and the phones plug is acting up. It does 
      > not appear that the metal on the plug is tarnished and the symptom is 
      > that the audio I hear is garbled and intermittent.
      >
      > I have the headset power switch turned off and the battery removed so 
      > the fancy electronics in the unit are not the culprit. When testing 
      > the phones I have used different airplanes and different jacks and 
      > when I pinch in and wiggle around at the base of the plug where the 
      > wires enter the phone jack the audio comes in crystal clear.
      >
      > So I think that the wires where they are soldered onto the terminals 
      > inside the plug are bad however I cannot re-solder them on because the 
      > phones jack is molded on plasticunlike the good olde David Clarke 
      > that had the unscrew phones body.
      >
      > So does anyone have a recommended replacement jackandwhen I do cut 
      > off the cable and strip the wires what color wire will go to what lug 
      > on the replacement plug?
      >
      > THANKS for your help and stay Corona free (referencing the virus and 
      > not the beer)!!!
      >
      > Bill
      >
      Hi Bill,
      
      Assuming it's stereo, you need a 1/4" stereo phone plug:
      https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS843US843&sxsrf=ALeKk03bK2-J8n5tZfGd3RQkkludnBiu8g%3A1586539349910&ei=VauQXraHN6G9ggegsofYCg&q=1%2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&oq=1%2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyAggAMgYIABAIEB4yBQgAEM0COgQIABBHOgcIIxCwAhAnOgQIABANOgYIABAHEB46CAgAEAgQBxAeOgYIABANEB46CAgAEA0QBRAeSg4IFxIKMTEtMTAxZzE0OUoKCBgSBjExLTVnMlCAP1jFUWCDVGgAcAJ4AIABjwOIAc8KkgEHMC41LjEuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwj2hf7Sr97oAhWhnuAKHSDZAasQ4dUDCAw&uact=5
      
      Switchcraft makes high quality stuff, but honestly, I've used just about 
      any available brand (or no-brand) in a couple of my prior lives as a 
      sound engineer and electronics tech, and virtually anything will work. 
      I've even used milspec brass plugs to make cables for pro musicians, but 
      found that they are actually less reliable because the brass tarnishes 
      while the chromed plugs never do. If you can find one that includes a 
      rubber strain relief like the molded plugs, that would be great, but you 
      can achieve a similar effect with a couple of layers of shrink tubing.
      
      You can't assume that color codes are consistent, but here are the 
      physical connections:
      Wiring Diagram 1 4 Stereo Jack - Index Wiring Diagrams
      You can find left/right by grabbing a 1.5V battery (C, D, AA or AAA will 
      work fine) and making/breaking a connection from ground to each wire in 
      turn, listening for a 'click' sound in the phones. (Do Not use a 9V 
      battery; the speaker may not survive it.)
      
      Charlie
      
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      Neutrik jacks are fabulous: 
      NP3X for silver/chrome, and NP3X-B for black/gold. The strain relief arrangement
      is awesome.
      
      
      On Apr 10, 2020, at 1:41 PM, Charlie England  wrote:
      
      On 4/10/2020 11:25 AM, billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com wrote:
      > Greetings Fellow Covidners!!!!
      > 
      > I hope you all are going well and keeping the curve flat by not being on the
      curve
      > 
      > Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement solder on phones jack?
      > 
      > I have a Bose A20 headset and the phones plug is acting up.  It does not appear
      that the metal on the plug is tarnished and the symptom is that the audio I
      hear is garbled and intermittent.  
      > 
      > I have the headset power switch turned off and the battery removed so the fancy
      electronics in the unit are not the culprit.  When testing the phones I have
      used different airplanes and different jacks and when I  pinch in and wiggle
      around at the base of the plug where the wires enter the phone jack the audio
      comes in crystal clear.
      > 
      > So I think that the wires where they are soldered onto the terminals inside the
      plug are bad however I cannot re-solder them on because the phones jack is
      molded on plasticunlike the good olde David Clarke that had the unscrew phones
      body.
      > 
      > So does anyone have a recommended replacement jackandwhen I do cut off the cable
      and strip the wires what color wire will go to what lug on the replacement
      plug?
      > 
      > THANKS for your help and stay Corona free (referencing the virus and not the
      beer)!!!
      > 
      > Bill
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      Hi Bill,
      
      Assuming it's stereo, you need a 1/4" stereo phone plug:
      https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS843US843&sxsrf=ALeKk03bK2-J8n5tZfGd3RQkkludnBiu8g%3A1586539349910&ei=VauQXraHN6G9ggegsofYCg&q=1%2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&oq=1%2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyAggAMgYIABAIEB4yBQgAEM0COgQIABBHOgcIIxCwAhAnOgQIABANOgYIABAHEB46CAgAEAgQBxAeOgYIABANEB46CAgAEA0QBRAeSg4IFxIKMTEtMTAxZzE0OUoKCBgSBjExLTVnMlCAP1jFUWCDVGgAcAJ4AIABjwOIAc8KkgEHMC41LjEuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwj2hf7Sr97oAhWhnuAKHSDZAasQ4dUDCAw&uact=5
      
      Switchcraft makes high quality stuff, but honestly, I've used just about any available
      brand (or no-brand) in a couple of my prior lives as a sound engineer
      and electronics tech, and virtually anything will work. I've even used milspec
      brass plugs to make cables for pro musicians, but found that they are actually
      less reliable because the brass tarnishes while the chromed plugs never do.
      If you can find one that includes a rubber strain relief like the molded plugs,
      that would be great, but you can achieve a similar effect with a couple of layers
      of shrink tubing.
      
      You can't assume that color codes are consistent, but here are the physical connections:
      
      You can find left/right by grabbing a 1.5V battery (C, D, AA or AAA will work fine)
      and making/breaking a connection from ground to each wire in turn, listening
      for a 'click' sound in the phones. (Do Not use a 9V battery; the speaker
      may not survive it.)
      
      Charlie
      
      
      	Virus-free. www.avast.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
      
      Bill,
      
      I have a Bose A20 and was having exactly the same problem. I thought it was
      wiring behind my panel or maybe a bad audio panel. Guess what it turned out
      to be: the electronics box in the A20's cord does not like to be on the
      floor. I suspect vibration upsets it (since I do not yet have carpeting in
      my airplane). Once I picked the box up off the floor and either clipped it
      to my pant leg or held it in my hand, the problem vanished.
      
      Give it a try before cutting up your A20 cord.
      
          -- Art Z.
      
      On Fri, Apr 10, 2020 at 11:51 AM  wrote:
      
      > Greetings Fellow Covidners!!!!
      >
      > I hope you all are going well and keeping the curve flat by not being on
      > the curve
      >
      > Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement solder on phones jack
      ?
      >
      > I have a Bose A20 headset and the phones plug is acting up.  It does not
      > appear that the metal on the plug is tarnished and the symptom is that th
      e
      > audio I hear is garbled and intermittent.
      >
      > I have the headset power switch turned off and the battery removed so the
      > fancy electronics in the unit are not the culprit.  When testing the phon
      es
      > I have used different airplanes and different jacks and when I  pinch in
      > and wiggle around at the base of the plug where the wires enter the phone
      > jack the audio comes in crystal clear.
      >
      
      -- 
      https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
      *Sooner meet a bereaved she-bear than a fool with his nonsense.   *Proverbs
      17:12
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
      
      
      I'm glad you have had good experiences, but I have not. They started out 
      nice but the cost of repairs increased rather rapidly in the past few 
      years, from under $200 to over $300. My last set, we went to all the 
      trouble to create an rma, including me giving them the serial number, only 
      for them to receive it, then decline to fix it, sending the broken set back 
      without any repair.
      
      On April 10, 2020 13:50:09 Tim Olson  wrote:
      
      >
      > I'd call Bose.  I've had them gladly fix things before, even once out of
      > warranty.
      > They have top notch support.
      > Tim
      >
      > On 4/10/2020 12:14 PM, user9253 wrote:
      >>
      >> Strip the outer insulation of the cable a couple of inches from the plug.
      >> Before cutting each individual wire inside of the cable, mark them somehow,
      >> unless they are already color coded.  Cut the wires.  Use an ohmmeter to
      >> determine which wire is connected to which plug contact, ring or tip or barrel.
      >> Armed with that information, you should be able to wire the new plug.
      >>
      >> --------
      >> Joe Gores
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495746#495746
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
      
      
      Hi Bob,
       It will be a while before I can get the "real" numbers due to severe
      weather and the covid-19 shut down.
      The published numbers for the EFIS are 2.8 A @12 V each . Total for
      both is 5.6A.
      The IFD540  published are  Main 4.4A  Com 6.5A  and Nav  0.5A  all at
      14 volts.. These are peak and I believe an actual would be closer to
      5.9A
      There is no transmission during start up so I used 1A for the Com.
      The total of 11.5  is very close the the number I remember seeing on
      the amp meter after the battery
       is recharged during flight. I hope this is enough information to
      allow you to make a determination as
      to which start booster would be required. Thanks.
      Don
      
      On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 5:13 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III
       wrote:
      >
      > At 01:47 PM 4/8/2020, you wrote:
      >
      > Thanks Bob and Joe. I did not know these devices are available. I thought it
      was something Bob had designed. My bad. I will need to look up the measured currents
      for the two EFIS's and the Avidyne navigator.  Again, thanks for the help
      and the numbers will follow in a few days.
      > Don
      >
      >
      >   When you've got those numbers, let me
      >   dig through the samples I have on hand.
      >   We may just have the device you need.
      >
      >
      >   Bob . . .
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Minimum ANL size of 35A vs. power feed AWG
From: 
"Colyn Case" <colyncase(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      I wanted to protect all my big power wires that go through the firewall so I put
      ANL's on all of them.
      
      So for example, I put a 35A ANL on a #8 feed.
      The data sheet shows the 35A ANL will basically sustain about 90 amps indefinitely.
      
      I had hoped to set it up so that the ANL would interrupt about at the 2 minute
      intermittent max for the wire size.    In this case a #8 wire is good for 70 -
      90 amps for 2 minutes at 20' run.
      
      Why did I do that?   I wanted to make sure that if anything shorted anywhere behind
      the firewall, that the ANL would interrupt before the wire insulation melted.
       
      
      The problem is ANL's only go down to 35A.   So for any smaller wire size there
      is no ANL that will blow at the 2 minute max for the wire.
      
      You could argue that's a non problem because if you have a dead short the 35A ANL
      will blow anyway.    On the other hand, if you have a path with some resistance
      but still allowing more current than the wire can handle but less than 90
      amps, the wire insulation is going to burn.
      
      So right now i have a #6 and some #8's going through my firewall that otherwise
      could be much smaller.
      
      What is the right solution to this problem?
      
      --------
      Colyn Case
      colyncase(at)earthlink.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495754#495754
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Minimum ANL size of 35A vs. power feed AWG
From: 
"user9253" <fransew(at)GMAIL.COM>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      The way that many type certificated aircraft are wired (and most home-built)
       is with no current limiter at all on the main power bus feeder.  If it is not
      
      installed, it can not fail.  If the feeder does short to ground, the sheet metal
      
      will burn away, thus removing the short circuit.  The best solution is to install
      
      the main bus feeder so that it is very unlikely to short to ground.
      
      --------
      Joe Gores
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495756#495756
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      !!!DANG!!!
      
      I make a single post on the AeroElectric List...drive to the grocery, put on my
      face mask , walk the aisles and look around at all of the empty shelves, leave
      the store, take off my mask, and drive home and here are a great deal of very
      helpful replies.
      
      Just for fun next trip to the grocery store I will don my Darth Vader costume...complete
      with respirator sounds and walk the aisles...heck if I am going to wear
      a mask I might as well have fun with it...wonder if they will ask me for ID
      when I buy Corona beer???
      
      You guys are great.  Have a nice weekend!!!
      
      Bill
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com>
      On Behalf Of Alec Myers
      Sent: Friday, April 10, 2020 10:50 AM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
      
      
      Neutrik jacks are fabulous: 
      NP3X for silver/chrome, and NP3X-B for black/gold. The strain relief arrangement
      is awesome.
      
      
      On Apr 10, 2020, at 1:41 PM, Charlie England  wrote:
      
      On 4/10/2020 11:25 AM, billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com wrote:
      > Greetings Fellow Covidners!!!!
      > 
      > I hope you all are going well and keeping the curve flat by not being 
      > on the curve
      > 
      > Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement solder on phones jack?
      > 
      > I have a Bose A20 headset and the phones plug is acting up.  It does not appear
      that the metal on the plug is tarnished and the symptom is that the audio I
      hear is garbled and intermittent.  
      > 
      > I have the headset power switch turned off and the battery removed so the fancy
      electronics in the unit are not the culprit.  When testing the phones I have
      used different airplanes and different jacks and when I  pinch in and wiggle
      around at the base of the plug where the wires enter the phone jack the audio
      comes in crystal clear.
      > 
      > So I think that the wires where they are soldered onto the terminals inside the
      plug are bad however I cannot re-solder them on because the phones jack is
      molded on plasticunlike the good olde David Clarke that had the unscrew phones
      body.
      > 
      > So does anyone have a recommended replacement jackandwhen I do cut off the cable
      and strip the wires what color wire will go to what lug on the replacement
      plug?
      > 
      > THANKS for your help and stay Corona free (referencing the virus and not the
      beer)!!!
      > 
      > Bill
      > 
      >  
      > 
      >  
      > 
      Hi Bill,
      
      Assuming it's stereo, you need a 1/4" stereo phone plug:
      https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS843US843&sxsrf=ALeKk03bK2-J8n5tZfGd3RQkkludnBiu8g%3A1586539349910&ei=VauQXraHN6G9ggegsofYCg&q=1%2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&oq=1%2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyAggAMgYIABAIEB4yBQgAEM0COgQIABBHOgcIIxCwAhAnOgQIABANOgYIABAHEB46CAgAEAgQBxAeOgYIABANEB46CAgAEA0QBRAeSg4IFxIKMTEtMTAxZzE0OUoKCBgSBjExLTVnMlCAP1jFUWCDVGgAcAJ4AIABjwOIAc8KkgEHMC41LjEuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwj2hf7Sr97oAhWhnuAKHSDZAasQ4dUDCAw&uact=5
      
      Switchcraft makes high quality stuff, but honestly, I've used just about any available
      brand (or no-brand) in a couple of my prior lives as a sound engineer
      and electronics tech, and virtually anything will work. I've even used milspec
      brass plugs to make cables for pro musicians, but found that they are actually
      less reliable because the brass tarnishes while the chromed plugs never do.
      If you can find one that includes a rubber strain relief like the molded plugs,
      that would be great, but you can achieve a similar effect with a couple of layers
      of shrink tubing.
      
      You can't assume that color codes are consistent, but here are the physical connections:
      
      You can find left/right by grabbing a 1.5V battery (C, D, AA or AAA will work fine)
      and making/breaking a connection from ground to each wire in turn, listening
      for a 'click' sound in the phones. (Do Not use a 9V battery; the speaker
      may not survive it.)
      
      Charlie
      
      
      	Virus-free. www.avast.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
DANIEL PELLETIER <pelletie1959(at)me.com>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      the best part of the Covid is that I may have time to finish my project.
      
      Happy Easter everybody
      
      > Le 10 avr. 2020 =C3- 19:10, billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com a =C3=A9crit :
      > 
      com>
      > 
      > !!!DANG!!!
      > 
      > I make a single post on the AeroElectric List...drive to the grocery, put o
      n my face mask , walk the aisles and look around at all of the empty shelves
      , leave the store, take off my mask, and drive home and here are a great dea
      l of very helpful replies.
      > 
      > Just for fun next trip to the grocery store I will don my Darth Vader cost
      ume...complete with respirator sounds and walk the aisles...heck if I am goi
      ng to wear a mask I might as well have fun with it...wonder if they will ask
       me for ID when I buy Corona beer???
      > 
      > You guys are great.  Have a nice weekend!!!
      > 
      > Bill
      > 
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-lis
      t-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Alec Myers
      > Sent: Friday, April 10, 2020 10:50 AM
      > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
      > 
      > 
      > Neutrik jacks are fabulous: 
      > NP3X for silver/chrome, and NP3X-B for black/gold. The strain relief arran
      gement is awesome.
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > On Apr 10, 2020, at 1:41 PM, Charlie England  wrote:
      
      > 
      >> On 4/10/2020 11:25 AM, billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com wrote:
      >> Greetings Fellow Covidners!!!!
      >> 
      >> I hope you all are going well and keeping the curve flat by not being 
      >> on the curve
      >> 
      >> Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement solder on phones jack
      ?
      >> 
      >> I have a Bose A20 headset and the phones plug is acting up.  It does not a
      ppear that the metal on the plug is tarnished and the symptom is that the au
      dio I hear is garbled and intermittent.  
      >> 
      >> I have the headset power switch turned off and the battery removed so the
       fancy electronics in the unit are not the culprit.  When testing the phones
       I have used different airplanes and different jacks and when I  pinch in an
      d wiggle around at the base of the plug where the wires enter the phone jack
       the audio comes in crystal clear.
      >> 
      >> So I think that the wires where they are soldered onto the terminals insi
      de the plug are bad however I cannot re-solder them on because the phones ja
      ck is molded on plasticunlike the good olde David Clarke that had t
      he unscrew phones body.
      >> 
      >> So does anyone have a recommended replacement jackandwh
      en I do cut off the cable and strip the wires what color wire will go to wha
      t lug on the replacement plug?
      >> 
      >> THANKS for your help and stay Corona free (referencing the virus and not t
      he beer)!!!
      >> 
      >> Bill
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 
      > Hi Bill,
      > 
      > Assuming it's stereo, you need a 1/4" stereo phone plug:
      > https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS843US843&sxsrf=ALeKk03bK
      2-J8n5tZfGd3RQkkludnBiu8g%3A1586539349910&ei=VauQXraHN6G9ggegsofYCg&q=1%
      2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&oq=1%2F4%22+stereo+phone+plug&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYW
      IQAzICCAAyAggAMgYIABAIEB4yBQgAEM0COgQIABBHOgcIIxCwAhAnOgQIABANOgYIABAHEB46CA
      gAEAgQBxAeOgYIABANEB46CAgAEA0QBRAeSg4IFxIKMTEtMTAxZzE0OUoKCBgSBjExLTVnMlCAP1
      jFUWCDVGgAcAJ4AIABjwOIAc8KkgEHMC41LjEuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-
      ab&ved=0ahUKEwj2hf7Sr97oAhWhnuAKHSDZAasQ4dUDCAw&uact=5
      > 
      > Switchcraft makes high quality stuff, but honestly, I've used just about a
      ny available brand (or no-brand) in a couple of my prior lives as a sound en
      gineer and electronics tech, and virtually anything will work. I've even use
      d milspec brass plugs to make cables for pro musicians, but found that they a
      re actually less reliable because the brass tarnishes while the chromed plug
      s never do. If you can find one that includes a rubber strain relief like th
      e molded plugs, that would be great, but you can achieve a similar effect wi
      th a couple of layers of shrink tubing.
      > 
      > You can't assume that color codes are consistent, but here are the physica
      l connections:
      > 
      > You can find left/right by grabbing a 1.5V battery (C, D, AA or AAA will w
      ork fine)  and making/breaking a connection from ground to each wire in turn
      , listening for a 'click' sound in the phones. (Do Not use a 9V battery; the
       speaker may not survive it.)
      > 
      > Charlie
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >    Virus-free. www.avast.com
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Minimum ANL size of 35A vs. power feed AWG
From: 
"Colyn Case" <colyncase(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      I can see the logic of that.   However, if you abide that logic you probably wouldn't
      put any current limiters in your airplane at all, right?
      
      I think the guys that made my Nissan Stanza thought something like that.    One
      day for no reason that I could find, the electrical system fried itself, burned
      through a fender and destroyed the entire wiring harness in the car.   Fortunately,
      shortly into the episode, someone had the presence of mind to grab one
      of the cables  connected to the battery and simply pull it off.
      
      Not something I would enjoy doing at 20,000'
      
      --------
      Colyn Case
      colyncase(at)earthlink.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495759#495759
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      donvansanten(at)gmail.com wrote:
      > 
      > ... I have a dual AFS efis system and and an Avidyne 540 gps navigator...
      > 
      > My question is whether the brown out booster shown in Z-01 is capable
      > of powering two efis systems and a a gps navigator during engine
      > start?...
      
      
      Hi Don,
      
      Question... does it matter if the EFIS and Comm reboot during crank?
      
      The IFD 540 installation manual says the screen will dim below 11.5V but it keeps
      running down to 9V. I think battery voltage does not fall that far during crank;
      maybe 11V or 10V at the least. (Below 9V the IFD 540 it goes into a "60
      second power down sequence" but I don't know what that implies for cranking.)
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495760#495760
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: King KT - 76 Transponder "Reply"   light question....
      
         Spam . . . ignore
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Minimum ANL size of 35A vs. power feed AWG
From: 
"johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      Colyn Case wrote:
      > ... The problem is ANL's only go down to 35A...
      
      
      Hi Colyn,
      
      Renogy offers ANLs down to 20A but I don't know the quality. I don't know if they
      are a manufacturer or a vendor.
      
      "Mini ANLs": They are slow but they blow faster than ANLs. Bussman calls them AMI
      and has them down to 30A. Littlefuse calls them MIDI and has them down to 23A.
      I can send you the data sheets if you email me.
      
      With a Z dwg, versus the Nissan Stanza case, the master contactor will disconnect
      the battery.
      
      --------
      John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
      Single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
      john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495762#495762
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
saolesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
Date: 
Apr 10, 2020
      
      
      My experience with Bose repair wasnt good either.  I broke the case of the control
      module on my headset.  The strain relief had cracked the case and was just
      dangling.  I called Bose and the best they could do was a $295 overhaul.  I protested
      that I didnt need an overhaul since everything was working, just a small
      plastic case repair  that might generously run $50.  I talked to the manager
      who cut the price a bit but still wouldnt budge on the overhaul.  He even told
      me that headset was going to obsolete in a few months.  That told me I should
      save my money a new headset and probably find a different manufacturer.  
      I wrapped the cord up with electrical tape and it is still working  a year plus
      later.
      
      Sheldon Olesen
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Minimum ANL size of 35A vs. power feed AWG
From: 
"Colyn Case" <colyncase(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
      
      
      Thinking about this a little differently:   When the wires are sized, they are
      sized for voltage drop vs. current and distance.   Tables for calculating that
      are widely available.   Typically we apply a fuse or breaker to allow the current
      used in that calculation.
      
      That breaker size is way way lower than the current required to compromise the
      insulating properties of the insulation.    What I would like to know, is if I
      have a #10 wire, at what current is the temp rise high enough to start compromising
      the insulation?   e.g. ETFE melts at 255 degrees centigrade which in my
      application would be about a 200 degree C temp rise.
      
      So I might set the anl interrupt current to allow a 100 degree temp rise for that
      gauge wire.     ....looking for the table that shows what that current is.
      
      --------
      Colyn Case
      colyncase(at)earthlink.net
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495763#495763
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New Design Schemes and Brownout Operation
From: 
"wsimpso1" <wsimpso1(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
      
      
      First, thanks for the response, I appreciate the thoughtful response.
      
      To specifics: 
      
      I do believe that a DC-DC booster makes sense for prevention of brownout reboots
      over adding a battery. I was hoping that we could narrow the field some. Going
      on a search/shop/install/repeat cycle is something I would like to avoid. Any
      brands that are obviously bad news or look like they should be OK is a big
      help.
      
      The AeroElectric Connection has talked FMEA and MTBF. I was trained on FMEA in
      1980 and have done a lot of work with them over a successful engineering career,
      and believe in their value. I was hoping that we could talk relative scores
      of the various systems when performed by someone who has more than the guesses
      I would have to apply to the process. Frankly, if I can add a couple switches
      and contactors plus another battery to reduce the likelihood of dead stick and
      dark panel by an order of magnitude, I am likely to do it. On the other hand,
      if Z-14 and the newly developing scheme are on par with each other, I will
      go for simpler and lighter every time...
      
      That said, I did a quick FMEA using pessimistic values for MTBF of alternators,
      regulators, drive mechanisms, switches, contactors, and wiring, and even then,
      two alternators and reasonably fresh battery gets reliability beyond 99.9% for
      a thousand hours of operation. The value of redundancy is pretty high.  
      
      I am beginning to see the value in the advice I have received... Thanks Bob!
      
      Billski
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495765#495765
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Minimum ANL size of 35A vs. power   feed AWG
      
      At 06:30 PM 4/10/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >I can see the logic of that.   However, if you abide that logic you
      >probably wouldn't put any current limiters in your airplane at all, right?
      
         It's the same logic that specified sizes
         and materials of bolts that hold the wings
         on, optimizes engine oil for best service
         life and strives for failure tolerant
         electrical system architecture.
      
      >I think the guys that made my Nissan Stanza thought something
      >like that.    One day for no reason that I could find, the
      >electrical system fried itself, burned through a fender and
      >destroyed the entire wiring harness in the car.
      
         The arcing burned through sheet steel
         while partitioning off enough energy
         to burn every wired in the car?
      
      >Fortunately, shortly into the episode,
      
         'Shortly'? The events described above
         take quite a bit of time . . . how
         long was 'shortly'?
      
      >someone had the presence of mind to grab one of
      >the cables  connected to the battery and simply pull it off.
      
         Loose enough to be disconnected with
         bare hands?  I'm having difficulty
         wrapping my gray matter around the
         physics of this event.
      
      
      >Not something I would enjoy doing at 20,000'
      
         Building a pressurized airplane . . . or
         are you planning an oxygen system? What
         kind of cabin heat do you anticipate?
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
An interesting bit of aviation history
      
      
      https://tinyurl.com/tjyse9q
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Minimum ANL size of 35A vs. power   feed AWG
      
      At 07:45 AM 4/11/2020, you wrote:
      >
      >
      >Thinking about this a little differently:   When the wires are 
      >sized, they are sized for voltage drop vs. current and 
      >distance.   Tables for calculating that are widely 
      >available.   Typically we apply a fuse or breaker to allow the 
      >current used in that calculation.
      >
      >That breaker size is way way lower than the current required to 
      >compromise the insulating properties of the insulation.
      
         Circuit protection will operate wwwayyyyy before the insulation
         is at-risk.  A 22AWG wire will carry 20 amps in room air and
         still be far short of damaging insulation . . . 5A circuit
         protection makes risk-to-insulation still more remote.
      
         The vast majority of bad days in the cockpit
         are the result of poor piloting. Only a
         few are the result of mechanical failure
         and fewer still involve electrical failure.
      
         Of ALL electrical failures, death by 'unprotected'
         wires are a vanishingly small proportion.
         SwissAir 111 comes to mind . . . that WAS
         a compounded series of catastrophic design snafus.
      
         But for your personal airborne recreational vehicle,
         I suggest you're over thinking the problem.
      
      
         Bob . . . 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<mike(at)vision499.com>
Subject: 
Aircraft Tug
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
      
      
      Hello all
      
      
      I'm looking at building a 12v battery  operated aircraft tug, not a ride on
      just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about 1800 lbs.
      
      
      I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are a few 12v
      motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so am not sure of what
      specs I'm looking at. 
      
      
      One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated for
      continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is 100 yds and
      I'm not sure if it will cope with that distance. A friend has also suggested
      converting an alternator into a motor, not sure what that entails.  Ebay has
      scooter motors with a speed controller that seems ideal but not sure if that
      will be powerful enough but it will be geared right down.
      
      
      I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas
      
      
      Thanks
      
      
      Mike
      
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Joe Motis <joemotis(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Aircraft Tug
      
      Hi Mike,  I built a tug out of one of the mobility scooters I found on CL
      for $100.00 bucks. Everything is already their just needs some creativity
      to make it work on your aircraft. Will look for pics but do not know if I
      have any. Joe Motis
      
      On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:42 PM  wrote:
      
      >
      >
      > Hello all
      >
      >
      > I=99m looking at building a 12v battery  operated aircraft tug, not
       a ride
      > on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about 1800 lbs.
      >
      >
      > I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are a few
      > 12v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so am not sure o
      f
      > what specs I=99m looking at.
      >
      >
      > One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated for
      > continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is 100 yds and
      > I=99m not sure if it will cope with that distance. A friend has als
      o
      > suggested converting an alternator into a motor, not sure what that
      > entails.  Ebay has scooter motors with a speed controller that seems idea
      l
      > but not sure if that will be powerful enough but it will be geared right
      > down.
      >
      >
      > I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas
      >
      >
      > Thanks
      >
      >
      > Mike
      >
      >
      >  Virus-free.
      > www.avast.com
      > 
      > <#m_-8539690423255490022_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"skywagon185guy ." <skywagon185(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Aircraft Tug
      
      Mike,
      ...one tip is: you have to gear way down the motor which will increase its
      final driving torque greatly. So, don't be afraid of smaller size motors.
      For heavens sake, don't use an auto starter type motor; way too powerful.
      First engagement would rip your whole tug apart.
      
      On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:32 PM  wrote:
      
      >
      >
      > Hello all
      >
      >
      > I=99m looking at building a 12v battery  operated aircraft tug, not
       a ride
      > on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about 1800 lbs.
      >
      >
      > I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are a few
      > 12v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so am not sure o
      f
      > what specs I=99m looking at.
      >
      >
      > One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated for
      > continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is 100 yds and
      > I=99m not sure if it will cope with that distance. A friend has als
      o
      > suggested converting an alternator into a motor, not sure what that
      > entails.  Ebay has scooter motors with a speed controller that seems idea
      l
      > but not sure if that will be powerful enough but it will be geared right
      > down.
      >
      >
      > I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas
      >
      >
      > Thanks
      >
      >
      > Mike
      >
      >
      >  Virus-free.
      > www.avast.com
      > 
      > <#m_-4086849547896881672_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gerry van Dyk" <gerry.vandyk(at)eastlink.ca>
Subject: 
Aircraft Tug
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
      
      If I may suggest, have a look at Minimax Aircraft Tugs for ideas.  
      https://www.minimaxtugs.com/  They've got a range of light tugs built 
      around cordless drills.
      
      For the bottom end a commercial worm drive gear box would probably be a 
      good bet.  Try searching Ebay for  133ULR20A Browning Raider Worm Gear 
      Reducer.  I'd post a link but it's about 7 miles long.  That unit is 
      seriously overkill for the purpose, but perhaps there's lighter weight 
      similar units.
      
      this might be another option, but you'd need a separate battery and 
      electrical system.
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-12rpm-Speed-Reduction-Worm-Gear-Motor-with-C
      able-70kg-cm-High-Torque/163673951726?hash=item261bba4dee:g:QhkAAOSwOFFeA
      x2z
      
      Just food for thought
      Gerry
      
      ------ Original Message ------
      From: "skywagon185guy ." <skywagon185(at)gmail.com>
      Sent: 2020-04-11 4:49:35 PM
      Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Aircraft Tug
      
      >Mike,
      >...one tip is: you have to gear way down the motor which will increase 
      >its final driving torque greatly. So, don't be afraid of smaller size 
      >motors. For heavens sake, don't use an auto starter type motor; way too 
      >powerful.  First engagement would rip your whole tug apart.
      >
      >On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:32 PM  wrote:
      >>
      >>
      >>Hello all
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>I=99m looking at building a 12v battery  operated aircraft tug, not 
      a 
      >>ride on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about 1800 
      >>lbs.
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are a 
      >>few 12v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so am not 
      >>sure of what specs I=99m looking at.
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated for 
      >>continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is 100 yds 
      >>and I=99m not sure if it will cope with that distance. A friend has 
      also 
      >>suggested converting an alternator into a motor, not sure what that 
      >>entails.  Ebay has scooter motors with a speed controller that seems 
      >>ideal but not sure if that will be powerful enough but it will be 
      >>geared right down.
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>Thanks
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>Mike
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> 
      >>Virus-free. www.avast.com 
      >>
      >><#m_-4086849547896881672_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Aircraft Tug
From: 
Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
      
      Actually, a starter motor can work if properly geared down; I've got one 
      in my hangar that a friend used to use to drag his C-170 around. It had 
      a full size wet cell car battery for power (weight probably helped with 
      traction) and a chain reduction to the wheels. Sprocket diameters were 
      probably ~1.5" & ~6", but it's been a while since I really looked at it. 
      IIRC, it had a simple forward/reverse switch & a pushbutton to activate 
      it. A 100 yd continuous operation might be a bit much for a starter 
      motor, but it might not be working as hard pulling the a/c on level 
      ground as it is when starting the engine.
      
      There's a recently created thread on VAF detailing a shop-built tug 
      using a pair of scooter motors & wheels (purchased as a set on ebay). 
      Uses an off the shelf SLA battery.
      http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=180676&highlight=tug
      
      FWIW,
      
      Charlie
      
      
      On 4/11/2020 5:49 PM, skywagon185guy . wrote:
      > Mike,
      > ...one tip is: you have to gear way down the motor which will increase 
      > its final driving torque greatly. So, don't be afraid of smaller size 
      > motors. For heavens sake, don't use an auto starter type motor; way 
      > too powerful. First engagement would rip your whole tug apart.
      >
      > On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:32 PM  > wrote:
      >
      >     Hello all
      >
      >     Im looking at building a 12v battery operated aircraft tug, not
      >     a ride on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about
      >     1800 lbs.
      >
      >     I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are
      >     a few 12v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so
      >     am not sure of what specs Im looking at.
      >
      >     One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated
      >     for continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is
      >     100 yds and Im not sure if it will cope with that distance. A
      >     friend has also suggested converting an alternator into a motor,
      >     not sure what that entails. Ebay has scooter motors with a speed
      >     controller that seems ideal but not sure if that will be powerful
      >     enough but it will be geared right down.
      >
      >     I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas
      >
      >     Thanks
      >
      >     Mike
      >
      >
      >     
      >     	Virus-free. www.avast.com
      >     
      >
      >
      >     <#m_-4086849547896881672_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
      >
      
      
      -- 
      This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
      https://www.avast.com/antivirus
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Allan Chong <allanychong(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Bose Headset Plug Replacement
      
      Send it off to Bose.  over 10 years ago, they
      replaced electronics in their 1st gen headset for
      almost nothing.  I think they also did some extra
      things gratis like changing the seals.
      
      Excellent support on older out of warranty product.
      
      
      Allan
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Aircraft Tug
From: 
Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
      
      
      I actually have a MiniMax that I've got for sale right now.
      It's set up for an RV-10/RV-14 but I'm guessing it could
      be customized for others.
      Tim
      
      On 4/11/20 6:34 PM, Gerry van Dyk wrote:
      > If I may suggest, have a look at Minimax Aircraft Tugs for ideas. 
      > https://www.minimaxtugs.com/ They've got a range of light tugs built 
      > around cordless drills.
      > 
      > For the bottom end a commercial worm drive gear box would probably be a 
      > good bet. Try searching Ebay for 133ULR20A Browning Raider Worm Gear 
      > Reducer. I'd post a link but it's about 7 miles long. That unit is 
      > seriously overkill for the purpose, but perhaps there's lighter weight 
      > similar units.
      > 
      > this might be another option, but you'd need a separate battery and 
      > electrical system.
      > https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-12rpm-Speed-Reduction-Worm-Gear-Motor-with-Cable-70kg-cm-High-Torque/163673951726?hash=item261bba4dee:g:QhkAAOSwOFFeAx2z
      > 
      > Just food for thought
      > Gerry
      > 
      > ------ Original Message ------
      > From: "skywagon185guy ." <skywagon185(at)gmail.com 
      > >
      > To: "aeroelectric list"  >
      > Sent: 2020-04-11 4:49:35 PM
      > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Aircraft Tug
      > 
      >> Mike,
      >> ...one tip is: you have to gear way down the motor which will increase 
      >> its final driving torque greatly. So, don't be afraid of smaller size 
      >> motors. For heavens sake, don't use an auto starter type motor; way 
      >> too powerful. First engagement would rip your whole tug apart.
      >>
      >> On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:32 PM > > wrote:
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     Hello all____
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     Im looking at building a 12v battery operated aircraft tug, not
      >>     a ride on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about
      >>     1800 lbs.____
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are
      >>     a few 12v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so
      >>     am not sure of what specs Im looking at. ____
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated
      >>     for continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is
      >>     100 yds and Im not sure if it will cope with that distance. A
      >>     friend has also suggested converting an alternator into a motor,
      >>     not sure what that entails. Ebay has scooter motors with a speed
      >>     controller that seems ideal but not sure if that will be powerful
      >>     enough but it will be geared right down.____
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas____
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     Thanks____
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     Mike____
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>     __ __
      >>
      >>
      >>     
      >>     	Virus-free. www.avast.com
      >>     
      >>
      >>
      >>     <#m_-4086849547896881672_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
      >>
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
DeWitt Whittington <dee.whittington(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Aircraft Tug
Date: 
Apr 11, 2020
      
      
      Tim, what do you want for the MiniMax? And where do you live for shipping cost
      calculation to Dinwiddie County Airport (KPTB), Virginia.
      
      Dee Whittington
      804-677-4849 iPhone
      
      
      > On Apr 11, 2020, at 10:44 PM, Tim Olson  wrote:
      > 
      > 
      > I actually have a MiniMax that I've got for sale right now.
      > It's set up for an RV-10/RV-14 but I'm guessing it could
      > be customized for others.
      > Tim
      > 
      > On 4/11/20 6:34 PM, Gerry van Dyk wrote:
      >> If I may suggest, have a look at Minimax Aircraft Tugs for ideas. https://www.minimaxtugs.com/  They've got a range of light tugs built around cordless drills.
      >> For the bottom end a commercial worm drive gear box would probably be a good
      bet.  Try searching Ebay for  133ULR20A Browning Raider Worm Gear Reducer.  I'd
      post a link but it's about 7 miles long.  That unit is seriously overkill for
      the purpose, but perhaps there's lighter weight similar units.
      >> this might be another option, but you'd need a separate battery and electrical
      system.
      >> https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-12rpm-Speed-Reduction-Worm-Gear-Motor-with-Cable-70kg-cm-High-Torque/163673951726?hash=item261bba4dee:g:QhkAAOSwOFFeAx2z
      >> Just food for thought
      >> Gerry
      >> ------ Original Message ------
      >> From: "skywagon185guy ." <skywagon185(at)gmail.com <mailto:skywagon185(at)gmail.com>>
      >> To: "aeroelectric list" >
      >> Sent: 2020-04-11 4:49:35 PM
      >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Aircraft Tug
      >>> Mike,
      >>> ...one tip is: you have to gear way down the motor which will increase its
      final driving torque greatly. So, don't be afraid of smaller size motors. For
      heavens sake, don't use an auto starter type motor; way too powerful.  First engagement
      would rip your whole tug apart.
      >>> 
      >>> On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:32 PM > wrote:
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    Hello all____
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    Im looking at building a 12v battery  operated aircraft tug, not
      >>>    a ride on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about
      >>>    1800 lbs.____
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are
      >>>    a few 12v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so
      >>>    am not sure of what specs Im looking at. ____
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated
      >>>    for continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is
      >>>    100 yds and Im not sure if it will cope with that distance. A
      >>>    friend has also suggested converting an alternator into a motor,
      >>>    not sure what that entails.  Ebay has scooter motors with a speed
      >>>    controller that seems ideal but not sure if that will be powerful
      >>>    enough but it will be geared right down.____
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas____
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    Thanks____
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    Mike____
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>>    __ __
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>>    
      >>>    	Virus-free. www.avast.com
      >>>    
      >>> 
      >>> 
      >>>    <#m_-4086849547896881672_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
      >>> 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
John M Tipton <john(at)tipton.me.uk>
Subject: 
Re: Aircraft Tug
Date: 
Apr 12, 2020
      
      There=99s a couple of =98walk along tugs=99 in our hangar w
      hich use rechargeable drills (the DeWalt brand seems =98de rigueur
      =99), which just goes to show what is required using the right gearing.
      
      John
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
           ----x--O--x----
      
      > On 12 Apr 2020, at 12:08 am, skywagon185guy .  wrot
      e:
      > 
      > =EF=BB
      > Mike,
      > ...one tip is: you have to gear way down the motor which will increase its
       final driving torque greatly. So, don't be afraid of smaller size motors. Fo
      r heavens sake, don't use an auto starter type motor; way too powerful.  Fir
      st engagement would rip your whole tug apart.
      > 
      >> On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:32 PM  wrote:
      >>  
      >> 
      >> Hello all
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >> I=99m looking at building a 12v battery  operated aircraft tug, not
       a ride on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about 1800 lbs.
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >> I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are a few 1
      2v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so am not sure of wh
      at specs I=99m looking at.
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >> One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated for cont
      inuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is 100 yds and I
      =99m not sure if it will cope with that distance. A friend has also suggeste
      d converting an alternator into a motor, not sure what that entails.  Ebay h
      as scooter motors with a speed controller that seems ideal but not sure if t
      hat will be powerful enough but it will be geared right down.
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >> I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >> Thanks
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >> Mike
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >>  
      >> 
      >> 
      >> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Joe Motis <joemotis(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 12, 2020
Subject: 
Re: Aircraft Tug
      
      Her you go Mike
      [image: 1014001835[1].jpg] I could not find another picture but I mounted a
      trailer hitch ball on to of the frame right behind the batteries and
      fabricated a tow bar with a hitch connector on it. Works excellent.
      
      On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 12:42 PM  wrote:
      
      >
      >
      > Hello all
      >
      >
      > I=99m looking at building a 12v battery  operated aircraft tug, not
       a ride
      > on just a walk with. My max aircraft weight will be about 1800 lbs.
      >
      >
      > I am looking for advise on what size motor I will need. There are a few
      > 12v motors for sale on ebay but they are not rated in hp so am not sure o
      f
      > what specs I=99m looking at.
      >
      >
      > One thought was to use a car starter motor but that is not rated for
      > continuous service but the farthest I will go with the tug is 100 yds and
      > I=99m not sure if it will cope with that distance. A friend has als
      o
      > suggested converting an alternator into a motor, not sure what that
      > entails.  Ebay has scooter motors with a speed controller that seems idea
      l
      > but not sure if that will be powerful enough but it will be geared right
      > down.
      >
      >
      > I look forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas
      >
      >
      > Thanks
      >
      >
      > Mike
      >
      >
      >  Virus-free.
      > www.avast.com
      > 
      > <#m_3616394520000165289_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 12, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
      
      I've been pondering this topic for a few days. The
      ignition system on this engine is really rather clever . . .
      manipulation of 4 switches in pattern gives you
      a 100% check on condition of ignition components!
      
      I think I'd try to avoid adding to the complexity
      of this already 'optimized' switching philosophy.
      If it were my airplane, I'd craft a shield and
      gang bar (magenta and blue) to give me single-stroke
      shutdown of all switches. Mounting the switches
      on 0.8" centers makes for a compact cluster that
      goes to choreographing the toggle-switch-tap-
      dance during preflight run up.
      
         Bob . . .  
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Revmaster R2300 Ignition
From: 
"dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com>
Date: 
Apr 12, 2020
      
      
      [quote]>I think I'd try to avoid adding to the complexity
      >of this already 'optimized' switching philosophy.
      >If it were my airplane, I'd craft a shield and
      >gang bar (magenta and blue) to give me single-stroke
      >shutdown of all switches. Mounting the switches
      >on 0.8" centers makes for a compact cluster that
      >goes to choreographing the toggle-switch-tap-
      >dance during preflight run up[/quote]
      
      It's hard to argue common sense.  Thanks for all the feedback and above all, thanks
      for serious consideration of my excursion into unnecessary complexity.  I
      think it's safe to say I've been "talked back from the ledge" and will be installing
      4 switches.
      
      Best regards,
      
      Dan.
      
      --------
      Scratch building Sonex #1362
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495786#495786
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: New role for the E-Bus?
From: 
"wsimpso1" <wsimpso1(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Apr 13, 2020
      
      
      I was on Avidyne's site and saw their 60 second shutdown at 9 volts too. I wonder
      if they have an integral booster or some other solution. 
      
      I have inquiries to both Dynon and Avidyne on the topic of brownout reboot during
      cranking. Yeah, I know, Dynon says use their backup battery. I also inquired
      about having more than one set of power connections, perhaps diode isolated
      inputs. 
      
      I wonder if we would be wise to isolate the brownout booster's output from ship's
      power with diodes on both feeds to the buses or at each powered box.
      
      Billski
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=495795#495795
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 13, 2020
From: 
Rod Smith <rodsmith52(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
3/4HP Belt Sander Motor
      
      Not directly aircraft related but a tool that I use extensively in construc
      tion of my Bearhawk for shaping metal parts. The motor is now spooling up v
      ery slowly and when a load is placed on it, slows down considerably. As far
       as I can tell, it is brushless, It's described as Type:=C2- TEFC Capacit
      or-Start Induction and does have a large external capacitor. Any ideas on r
      epairing instead of replacing this?
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Apr 13, 2020
From: 
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: 
Re: 3/4HP Belt Sander Motor
      
      At 02:46 PM 4/13/2020, you wrote:
      >Not directly aircraft related but a tool that I use extensively in 
      >construction of my Bearhawk for shaping metal parts. The motor is 
      >now spooling up very slowly and when a load is placed on it, slows 
      >down considerably. As far as I can tell, it is brushless, It's 
      >described as Type:  TEFC Capacitor-Start Induction and does have a 
      >large external capacitor. Any ideas on repairing instead of replacing this?

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March 24, 2020 - April 14, 2020

AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-pi

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