AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-qc
March 01, 2021 - May 13, 2021
bibliographies, and other academic-related assistance. However, they also
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topics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500824#500824
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daryl Thompson <flyer532(at)gmail.com> |
Hey guys/gals, I am installing 9 different Mitchell Aircraft cluster style
gauges. I am using molex connectors. 8 of the gauges have a black grounding
wire ( the ninth one is an ammeter with a shunt) and am wondering about the
effectiveness of different grounding methods. Was thinking of running the
ground wires into a molex connector, then jumping the grounds to a single
ground wire out the back of the molex connector then attaching that wire to
the metal aircraft frame. Is that a sufficient ground or does each
grounding wire need to be run to a grounding bus bar?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n1dw" <n1deltawhiskey(at)comcast.net> |
I would think you proposal would work electrically but I doubt that I
would ever buy a plane wired as you propose.
Why? Maintenance. If one of your gauges stops working, how will you
determine if the cause is electrical due to the power or ground wires,
or something else. I also do not find the use of the airframe at a
ground point appealing as there could be a lot of unknowns involved;
would prefer a central ground point with only one electrical connection
of the airframe to that ground point. By using a common ground point,
you greatly reduce the possibility of ground loops.
Just some food for thought.
Doug
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Daryl
Thompson
Sent: Monday, March 1, 2021 9:56 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Grounding
Hey guys/gals, I am installing 9 different Mitchell Aircraft cluster
style gauges. I am using molex connectors. 8 of the gauges have a black
grounding wire ( the ninth one is an ammeter with a shunt) and am
wondering about the effectiveness of different grounding methods. Was
thinking of running the ground wires into a molex connector, then
jumping the grounds to a single ground wire out the back of the molex
connector then attaching that wire to the metal aircraft frame. Is that
a sufficient ground or does each grounding wire need to be run to a
grounding bus bar?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D Friedman <dfcats7(at)yahoo.com> |
Please change my email to the following:
friedmand54(at)yahoo.com
Thank you.
.net> wrote:
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yiv9546534483 p.yiv9546534483MsoNormal, #yiv9546534483 li.yiv9546534483MsoN
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I would think you proposal would work electrically but I doubt that I would
ever buy a plane wired as you propose.
=C2-
Why?=C2- Maintenance.=C2- If one of your gauges stops working, how will
you determine if the cause is electrical due to the power or ground wires,
or something else.=C2- I also do not find the use of the airframe at a g
round point appealing as there could be a lot of unknowns involved; would p
refer a central ground point with only one electrical connection of the air
frame to that ground point.=C2- By using a common ground point, you great
ly reduce the possibility of ground loops.
=C2-
Just some food for thought.
=C2-
Doug
=C2-
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list
-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Daryl Thompson
Sent: Monday, March 1, 2021 9:56 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Grounding
=C2-
Hey guys/gals, I am installing 9 different Mitchell Aircraft cluster style
gauges. I am using molex connectors. 8 of the gauges have a black grounding
wire ( the ninth one is an ammeter with a shunt) and am wondering about th
e effectiveness of different grounding methods.=C2- Was thinking of runni
ng the ground wires into a molex connector, then jumping the grounds to a s
ingle ground wire out the back of the molex connector then attaching that w
ire to the metal aircraft frame. Is that a sufficient ground or does each g
rounding wire need to be run to a grounding bus bar?=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Cox <flyboyron(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
Hi, smart people,
Does anyone know of a device that I can leave attached to a vehicle and
would monitor the battery voltage (without running it down quickly itself)?
I want something that will connect to my WiFi when the battery gets low and
will give me an alert via email or text, or even on an app, before the
car/airplane battery gets too low to start it. In this case this is for my
wife's Lexus, but it would work for an airplane too, if there's WiFi
available in the hangar, as there is in mine.
The car doesn't get driven enough, and when it does get used, the drives
are too short to keep the battery topped off. I'd like to be able to set
this and forget it until the alert tells me to go out and charge it.
I know I could use a maintainer, but she will NOT deal with stepping over
and connecting/disconnecting the cord for that. It'd be an issue with the
layout of our garage outlets. And I can just see her dragging a Battery
Minder halfway to the beauty shop on the 2-3 times a month she drives her
car.
What I'd like to do is get an alert when I need to hook up the big dog
charger and top off the battery.
I know there's probably something in the RV or motorcycle world, but I've
searched all over and can't find one that isn't just for local use (buzzer,
etc. vs. WiFi alerts).
(Hey, maybe a giant Qi charger in the floor under her car... Nah.)
Thanks,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
Something like this?
https://www.alpha.ca/solutions/products/batteries/remote-battery-management-system/item/remote-battery-monitoring-system-plus
On Mar 1, 2021, at 10:08 PM, Ronald Cox wrote:
Hi, smart people,
Does anyone know of a device that I can leave attached to a vehicle and would monitor
the battery voltage (without running it down quickly itself)? I want something
that will connect to my WiFi when the battery gets low and will give me
an alert via email or text, or even on an app, before the car/airplane battery
gets too low to start it. In this case this is for my wife's Lexus, but it
would work for an airplane too, if there's WiFi available in the hangar, as there
is in mine.
The car doesn't get driven enough, and when it does get used, the drives are too
short to keep the battery topped off. I'd like to be able to set this and forget
it until the alert tells me to go out and charge it.
I know I could use a maintainer, but she will NOT deal with stepping over and connecting/disconnecting
the cord for that. It'd be an issue with the layout of
our garage outlets. And I can just see her dragging a Battery Minder halfway
to the beauty shop on the 2-3 times a month she drives her car.
What I'd like to do is get an alert when I need to hook up the big dog charger
and top off the battery.
I know there's probably something in the RV or motorcycle world, but I've searched
all over and can't find one that isn't just for local use (buzzer, etc. vs.
WiFi alerts).
(Hey, maybe a giant Qi charger in the floor under her car... Nah.)
Thanks,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
If the car starts, I wouldn't worry about it. But if there is a problem,
how about a Battery Maintainer extension cord like this one:
https://tinyurl.com/Maintainer-Extension-Cord
Dangle the plug end out in front of the radiator and close the hood. Tie the
charger cord to something so that it can not be dragged away. Plug the
charger into the extension cord. If your wife forgets to unplug it and drives
away, the cords will unplug with no harm done.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500832#500832
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
| From: | "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com> |
If you google "SKU: 081-0172" you will find a Battery Tender branded monitor that
is inexpensive... and, there's an app for that.
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YOtPiA3AdUsQEYR4nodBESNAo21rxdnx4pFs7VxXfuI/edit?usp=sharing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500833#500833
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
You could switch to a LiFePo battery the next time it needs changing.=C2
- They have a very low self discharge rate, and they will accept a much l
arger recharge current.=C2- So, it could sit six months and start the car
without an issue, and then recharge in only a few minutes.
wrote:
If the car starts, I wouldn't worry about it.=C2- But if there is a probl
em,
how about a Battery Maintainer extension cord like this one:
https://tinyurl.com/Maintainer-Extension-Cord
Dangle the plug end out in front of the radiator and close the hood.=C2-
Tie the
charger cord to something so that it can not be dragged away.=C2- Plug th
e
charger into the extension cord.=C2- If your wife forgets to unplug it an
d drives
away, the cords will unplug with no harm done.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500832#500832
-
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | argoldman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
The LiFEPO batteries have great advantages and I have been on the advocate
side almost since they came out. There are some caveats, however with which
you should be familiar. True the shelf discharge is almost nil, however ta
ke the earth-x for example, there is circuitry which charges and balances t
he cells., which is great. However each model of the battery has a certain
maximum charging amperage which you can use. Important to know. the dischar
ge graph is different in that it will maintain close to its specified volta
ge until significantly discharged then drops off precipitously.=C2-
there are other things to look for. the other thing is the price.
Rich=C2-=C2-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 2, 2021 8:09 am
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts?
You could switch to a LiFePo battery the next time it needs changing.=C2
- They have a very low self discharge rate, and they will accept a much l
arger recharge current.=C2- So, it could sit six months and start the car
without an issue, and then recharge in only a few minutes.
wrote:
If the car starts, I wouldn't worry about it.=C2- But if there is a probl
em,
how about a Battery Maintainer extension cord like this one:
https://tinyurl.com/Maintainer-Extension-Cord
Dangle the plug end out in front of the radiator and close the hood.=C2-
Tie the
charger cord to something so that it can not be dragged away.=C2- Plug th
e
charger into the extension cord.=C2- If your wife forgets to unplug it an
d drives
away, the cords will unplug with no harm done.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500832#500832
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.sp; =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2
- =C2- &==C2- --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test Failed...Troubleshooting |
Suggestions Please
The static test technician is coming back to the airpark tomorrow so can
someone PLEASE help me troubleshoot a failed test transponder? I also
posted this same request on the Dynon forum hoping to get a troubleshooting
answer tonight.
I tried to get a pitot static test today and the system failed the
transponder Mode S interrogations received component of the test. He was
using the Tol-Instruments T-48 MODE S/ATCRBS TRANSPONDER RAMP TEST SET. He
said that the test set was receiving between 65 to 100 percent of the
interrogations and the device reports the lowest number as the result and
anything less than 90 percent is considered a fail so my system got a 65
percent.
After the fail I switched the antenna from the transponder to the ADS-B
antenna and the result was the same so it seems that the antenna was not at
fault.
The technician had me switch it to Mode A and he used a different test kit
called a AV-17 AVIONICS TESTER and the mode A and Mode C system worked great
with 100 percent replies received however when he uses the T-48 MODE S
tester the same problem.
The transponder is the Dynon -261 unit.
The setup shows the following:
ON-LINE HW22.03 FW01.02 SW02.11
USA 91.227 COMPLIANT NO
GPS DATA (OFFLINE) GARMIN ADS-B/ADS-B+
PRESSURE ALTITUDE OK SKYVIEW
TAIL NUMBER shows my N-Number
TRANSPONDER HEX CODE A0088C
ADS-B IN FREQ (BOTH SV-ADSB-472)
TIS TRAFFIC is ON
What troubleshooting steps should I take now? How do I determine if it is a
programming issue or cable or the unit???
He is coming back to the airport tomorrow so if it is something that I can
reprogram of fix please let me know.
THANKS
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test Failed...Troubleshooting |
Suggestions Please
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The Dynon transponder gets its altitude information from the ADAHRS
unit. That means you need the full Dynon system turned on, not just the
transponder. Apparently you are getting your GPS information from a
certified GPS, which has to connect to the Dynon via ARINC-429 interface
box. I've been flying with the -261 transponder for 5 years with no
problems. In fact last airborne report there were no errors. I have dual
ADAHRS, and GTN-650 providing GPS data.
Any chance of a problem with the coax from the -261 to the antenna?
Does the antenna have appropriate ground plain?
On 3/2/2021 4:52 PM, billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com wrote:
>
> The static test technician is coming back to the airpark tomorrow so can
> someone PLEASE help me troubleshoot a failed test transponder? I also
> posted this same request on the Dynon forum hoping to get a troubleshooting
> answer tonight.
>
> I tried to get a pitot static test today and the system failed the
> transponder Mode S interrogations received component of the test. He was
> using the Tol-Instruments T-48 MODE S/ATCRBS TRANSPONDER RAMP TEST SET. He
> said that the test set was receiving between 65 to 100 percent of the
> interrogations and the device reports the lowest number as the result and
> anything less than 90 percent is considered a fail so my system got a 65
> percent.
>
> After the fail I switched the antenna from the transponder to the ADS-B
> antenna and the result was the same so it seems that the antenna was not at
> fault.
>
> The technician had me switch it to Mode A and he used a different test kit
> called a AV-17 AVIONICS TESTER and the mode A and Mode C system worked great
> with 100 percent replies received however when he uses the T-48 MODE S
> tester the same problem.
>
> The transponder is the Dynon -261 unit.
>
> The setup shows the following:
>
> ON-LINE HW22.03 FW01.02 SW02.11
> USA 91.227 COMPLIANT NO
> GPS DATA (OFFLINE) GARMIN ADS-B/ADS-B+
> PRESSURE ALTITUDE OK SKYVIEW
> TAIL NUMBER shows my N-Number
> TRANSPONDER HEX CODE A0088C
> ADS-B IN FREQ (BOTH SV-ADSB-472)
> TIS TRAFFIC is ON
>
> What troubleshooting steps should I take now? How do I determine if it is a
> programming issue or cable or the unit???
>
>
> He is coming back to the airport tomorrow so if it is something that I can
> reprogram of fix please let me know.
>
> THANKS
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test Failed...Troubleshooting |
Suggestions Please
Bill either you are not reporting the problem correctly or your tech isn't
familiar with doing these tests on mode S transponders. The 90% figure
leads me to believe that the test you are failing is the suppression test.
If this is the case, here is the applicable section of *PART 43 Appendix F
ATC Transponder Tests and Inspections*:
*(b) Suppression: When C*
*lasses 1B, 2A, 3A, and 4 Mode S transponders are interrogated at a rate
between 230 and 1,200 Mode 3/A interrogations per second:*
*(2) Verify that the transponder replies to at least 90 percent of ATCRBS
interrogations when the amplitude of the P2 pulse is 9 dB less than the
P1 pulse. If the test is conducted with a radiated test signal, the
interrogation rate shall be 235 =C2=B15 interrogations per second unless a
higher rate has been approved for the test equipment used at that location.
*
As you can see, the suppression test is a mode A test, not mode C or mode
S. If the AV-17 is showing a 100% reply rate with P2 set 9dB less than P1,
your transponder passes the suppression test and that's the end of it. A
failed suppression test could not have anything to do with your transponder
setup. If we want to assume for argument's sake that you are indeed failing
the suppression test and your tech is competent with both the requirements
and his equipment, then I would try a different antenna, a different coax,
and then ship the unit back to Dynon.
If you were in a hangar, pull the aircraft outside to prevent reflected
signals from buggering up your data. Lastly, when doing these tests make
sure that the Dynon setup has the auto ON/OFF mode disabled to ensure that
you can turn everything on standing still.
Regards,
Sebastien
On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 3:58 PM wrote:
>
> The static test technician is coming back to the airpark tomorrow so can
> someone PLEASE help me troubleshoot a failed test transponder? I also
> posted this same request on the Dynon forum hoping to get a troubleshooti
ng
> answer tonight.
>
> I tried to get a pitot static test today and the system failed the
> transponder Mode S interrogations received component of the test. He was
> using the Tol-Instruments T-48 MODE S/ATCRBS TRANSPONDER RAMP TEST SET. H
e
> said that the test set was receiving between 65 to 100 percent of the
> interrogations and the device reports the lowest number as the result and
> anything less than 90 percent is considered a fail so my system got a 65
> percent.
>
> After the fail I switched the antenna from the transponder to the ADS-B
> antenna and the result was the same so it seems that the antenna was not
at
> fault.
>
> The technician had me switch it to Mode A and he used a different test ki
t
> called a AV-17 AVIONICS TESTER and the mode A and Mode C system worked
> great
> with 100 percent replies received however when he uses the T-48 MODE S
> tester the same problem.
>
> The transponder is the Dynon -261 unit.
>
> The setup shows the following:
>
> ON-LINE HW22.03 FW01.02 SW02.11
> USA 91.227 COMPLIANT NO
> GPS DATA (OFFLINE) GARMIN ADS-B/ADS-B+
> PRESSURE ALTITUDE OK SKYVIEW
> TAIL NUMBER shows my N-Number
> TRANSPONDER HEX CODE A0088C
> ADS-B IN FREQ (BOTH SV-ADSB-472)
> TIS TRAFFIC is ON
>
> What troubleshooting steps should I take now? How do I determine if it i
s
> a
> programming issue or cable or the unit???
>
>
> He is coming back to the airport tomorrow so if it is something that I ca
n
> reprogram of fix please let me know.
>
> THANKS
>
> Bill
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <limadelta(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Multiple switches to the same light? |
Is there anything wrong with (i) wiring a Map Light to a switch with that
name on the panel so that the light it can simply be turned on and off, AND
(ii) wiring it to a dimmer circuit that controls some additional lights so
that they can all be dimmed at once? If only the Map Light switch were
turned on, the Map Light would just come on. If only the dimmer were
turned on, the Map Light would get brighter and dimmer with adjustments to
the pot. If both were turned on, what happens? I would assume the dimmer
would just be ineffective.
I want to be able to turn the light on and off--full power--and be able to
separately dim it with others. Can I just do it the way I described?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <billhuntersemail(at)GMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test Failed...Troubleshooting |
Suggestions Please
Sebastien. Very good information!!!
> If you were in a hangar, pull the aircraft outside to prevent
reflected signals from buggering up your data.
Good idea
>Lastly, when doing these tests make sure that the Dynon setup has the
auto ON/OFF mode disabled to ensure that you can turn everything on
standing still.
That was done
>The Dynon transponder gets its altitude information from the ADAHRS
unit. That means you need the full Dynon system turned on, not just the
transponder.
Yes all of the avionics equipment was operating
>Apparently you are getting your GPS information from a certified GPS,
which has to connect to the Dynon via ARINC-429 interface boxI
have dual ADAHRS, and GTN-650 providing GPS data.
I have the exact same setup.
>Any chance of a problem with the coax from the -261 to the antenna?
That is possible but the cable appears to be in good shape. I will
research how to test a coax cable.
The ADS and transponder are installed side by side so perhaps I can swap
the coax cables and do the test to see if the problem follows???
>Does the antenna have appropriate ground plain?
Yes both the transponder and ADS-B antennae have the appropriate sized
ground plain.
Thanks Kelly for the information
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Sebastien
Sent: Tuesday, March 2, 2021 5:26 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test
Failed...Troubleshooting Suggestions Please
Bill either you are not reporting the problem correctly or your tech
isn't familiar with doing these tests on mode S transponders. The 90%
figure leads me to believe that the test you are failing is the
suppression test. If this is the case, here is the applicable section of
PART 43 Appendix F ATC Transponder Tests and Inspections:
(b) Suppression: When Classes 1B, 2A, 3A, and 4 Mode S transponders are
interrogated at a rate between 230 and 1,200 Mode 3/A interrogations per
second:
(2) Verify that the transponder replies to at least 90 percent of ATCRBS
interrogations when the amplitude of the P2 pulse is 9 dB less than the
P1 pulse. If the test is conducted with a radiated test signal, the
interrogation rate shall be 235 =C2=B15 interrogations per second unless
a higher rate has been approved for the test equipment used at that
location.
As you can see, the suppression test is a mode A test, not mode C or
mode S. If the AV-17 is showing a 100% reply rate with P2 set 9dB less
than P1, your transponder passes the suppression test and that's the end
of it. A failed suppression test could not have anything to do with your
transponder setup. If we want to assume for argument's sake that you are
indeed failing the suppression test and your tech is competent with both
the requirements and his equipment, then I would try a different
antenna, a different coax, and then ship the unit back to Dynon.
If you were in a hangar, pull the aircraft outside to prevent reflected
signals from buggering up your data. Lastly, when doing these tests make
sure that the Dynon setup has the auto ON/OFF mode disabled to ensure
that you can turn everything on standing still.
Regards,
Sebastien
On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 3:58 PM > wrote:
>
The static test technician is coming back to the airpark tomorrow so can
someone PLEASE help me troubleshoot a failed test transponder? I also
posted this same request on the Dynon forum hoping to get a
troubleshooting
answer tonight.
I tried to get a pitot static test today and the system failed the
transponder Mode S interrogations received component of the test. He was
using the Tol-Instruments T-48 MODE S/ATCRBS TRANSPONDER RAMP TEST SET.
He
said that the test set was receiving between 65 to 100 percent of the
interrogations and the device reports the lowest number as the result
and
anything less than 90 percent is considered a fail so my system got a 65
percent.
After the fail I switched the antenna from the transponder to the ADS-B
antenna and the result was the same so it seems that the antenna was not
at
fault.
The technician had me switch it to Mode A and he used a different test
kit
called a AV-17 AVIONICS TESTER and the mode A and Mode C system worked
great
with 100 percent replies received however when he uses the T-48 MODE S
tester the same problem.
The transponder is the Dynon -261 unit.
The setup shows the following:
ON-LINE HW22.03 FW01.02 SW02.11
USA 91.227 COMPLIANT NO
GPS DATA (OFFLINE) GARMIN ADS-B/ADS-B+
PRESSURE ALTITUDE OK SKYVIEW
TAIL NUMBER shows my N-Number
TRANSPONDER HEX CODE A0088C
ADS-B IN FREQ (BOTH SV-ADSB-472)
TIS TRAFFIC is ON
What troubleshooting steps should I take now? How do I determine if it
is a
programming issue or cable or the unit???
He is coming back to the airport tomorrow so if it is something that I
can
reprogram of fix please let me know.
THANKS
Bill
-
Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test Failed...Troubleshooting |
Su
| From: | "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com> |
billhuntersemail(at)GMAIL wrote:
> ... The ADS and transponder are installed side by side...
How close is "side by side"?
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YOtPiA3AdUsQEYR4nodBESNAo21rxdnx4pFs7VxXfuI/edit?usp=sharing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500847#500847
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Cox <flyboyron(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
You could switch to a LiFePo battery the next time it needs changing.=C2
- They have a very low self discharge rate, and they will accept a much l
arger recharge current.=C2- So, it could sit six months and start the car
without an issue, and then recharge in only a few minutes
......
That's true. But I probably should have been more careful with my
terminology...
When I said "self-discharge", what I should have called it was more of a
"parasitic discharge," from the car's electrical system. I haven't measured
it, but modern cars seem to have more than older ones.
There is a continuous, normal, current draw, small though it may be, to
maintain memories and run things like key fob receivers, security systems,
etc. If the car is driven regularly, that's really not a problem.
A battery disconnect would stop that, but it would also add a major
inconvenience in having to reset radio stations, seat positions, etc., each
time it was reconnected, and it would also lose some of the computer's
"driveability" information. So I discounted that idea.
And yes, there is the cost of the LiFePo battery.
I'm going to see if I can get the Deltran unit to work consistently, and
will report back on that.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
Have you considered asking your wife to take responsibility for keeping her
car in operating condition? Let her choose between either driving it enough
to keep the battery charged or using an external battery maintainer. Of
course, the possibility exists that she doesn't care enough about whether
her car starts to do anything about it. This may be your problem, not her
problem.
-- Art Z.
On Wed, Mar 3, 2021 at 9:46 AM Ronald Cox wrote:
> From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
> You could switch to a LiFePo battery the next time it needs changing.=C2
> - They have a very low self discharge rate, and they will accept a much l
> arger recharge current.=C2- So, it could sit six months and start the car
> without an issue, and then recharge in only a few minutes
> ......
> That's true. But I probably should have been more careful with my
> terminology...
> When I said "self-discharge", what I should have called it was more of a
> "parasitic discharge," from the car's electrical system. I haven't measured
> it, but modern cars seem to have more than older ones.
> There is a continuous, normal, current draw, small though it may be, to
> maintain memories and run things like key fob receivers, security systems,
> etc. If the car is driven regularly, that's really not a problem.
> A battery disconnect would stop that, but it would also add a major
> inconvenience in having to reset radio stations, seat positions, etc., each
> time it was reconnected, and it would also lose some of the computer's
> "driveability" information. So I discounted that idea.
> And yes, there is the cost of the LiFePo battery.
>
> I'm going to see if I can get the Deltran unit to work consistently, and
> will report back on that.
>
> Thanks again for the suggestions.
>
>>
>>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Multiple switches on the same light? |
| From: | "AdventureD" <dobrien(at)microfoundations.com> |
Is there anything wrong with (i) wiring a Map Light to a switch with that name
on the panel so that the light it can simply be turned on and off, AND (ii) wiring
the same light to a dimmer circuit that controls some additional lights so
that they can all be dimmed at once? If only the Map Light switch were turned
on, the Map Light would just come on. If only the dimmer were turned on, the
Map Light would get brighter and dimmer with adjustments to the pot. If both
were turned on, what happens? I would assume the dimmer would just be ineffective.
I want to be able to turn the light on and off--full power, without dimming--and
be able to separately dim it with others. Can I do it the way I described?
Thanks!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500850#500850
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)GMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts? |
Art I was thinking replace the car, the wife, or preferably both but Ron
has probably already considered and dismissed those options.
It does remind me of my last Cadillac which had an "away" mode. When
leaving town for a couple weeks there was a way to tell the car to go to
sleep which would drastically reduce the parasitic loads on the battery.
Perhaps Lexus has a similar option?
On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 08:55 Art Zemon wrote:
> Have you considered asking your wife to take responsibility for keeping
> her car in operating condition? Let her choose between either driving it
> enough to keep the battery charged or using an external battery maintainer.
> Of course, the possibility exists that she doesn't care enough about
> whether her car starts to do anything about it. This may be your problem,
> not her problem.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 3, 2021 at 9:46 AM Ronald Cox wrote:
>
>> From: Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net>
>> You could switch to a LiFePo battery the next time it needs changing.=C2
>> - They have a very low self discharge rate, and they will accept a much l
>> arger recharge current.=C2- So, it could sit six months and start the car
>> without an issue, and then recharge in only a few minutes
>> ......
>> That's true. But I probably should have been more careful with my
>> terminology...
>> When I said "self-discharge", what I should have called it was more of a
>> "parasitic discharge," from the car's electrical system. I haven't measured
>> it, but modern cars seem to have more than older ones.
>> There is a continuous, normal, current draw, small though it may be, to
>> maintain memories and run things like key fob receivers, security systems,
>> etc. If the car is driven regularly, that's really not a problem.
>> A battery disconnect would stop that, but it would also add a major
>> inconvenience in having to reset radio stations, seat positions, etc., each
>> time it was reconnected, and it would also lose some of the computer's
>> "driveability" information. So I discounted that idea.
>> And yes, there is the cost of the LiFePo battery.
>>
>> I'm going to see if I can get the Deltran unit to work consistently, and
>> will report back on that.
>>
>> Thanks again for the suggestions.
>>
>>>
>>>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> *Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
> stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test Failed...Troubleshooting |
Suggestions Please
Hey everybodyyou can uncross your fingers and toes!!!
The transponder passed!!!
The only thing that I did different was to program the Skyview to get
its GPS data from the Skyview GPS as opposed to the GARMIN GTN-650 and I
pulled the CBs for the Garmin so that way the automotive style 10 amp
battery charger would keep the volts on the bus about 13.3
voltswith the Garmin up and running it draws a fair amount of
zaps and the voltage on the bus was more like 12.3 volts and Dynon Tech
Support said that 12.4 volts was the minimum they would like to see to
have the transponder work properly
Thanks again for your help!!!
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Sebastien
Sent: Tuesday, March 2, 2021 5:26 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: URGENT REQUEST Transponder Test
Failed...Troubleshooting Suggestions Please
Bill either you are not reporting the problem correctly or your tech
isn't familiar with doing these tests on mode S transponders. The 90%
figure leads me to believe that the test you are failing is the
suppression test. If this is the case, here is the applicable section of
PART 43 Appendix F ATC Transponder Tests and Inspections:
(b) Suppression: When Classes 1B, 2A, 3A, and 4 Mode S transponders are
interrogated at a rate between 230 and 1,200 Mode 3/A interrogations per
second:
(2) Verify that the transponder replies to at least 90 percent of ATCRBS
interrogations when the amplitude of the P2 pulse is 9 dB less than the
P1 pulse. If the test is conducted with a radiated test signal, the
interrogation rate shall be 235 =C2=B15 interrogations per second unless
a higher rate has been approved for the test equipment used at that
location.
As you can see, the suppression test is a mode A test, not mode C or
mode S. If the AV-17 is showing a 100% reply rate with P2 set 9dB less
than P1, your transponder passes the suppression test and that's the end
of it. A failed suppression test could not have anything to do with your
transponder setup. If we want to assume for argument's sake that you are
indeed failing the suppression test and your tech is competent with both
the requirements and his equipment, then I would try a different
antenna, a different coax, and then ship the unit back to Dynon.
If you were in a hangar, pull the aircraft outside to prevent reflected
signals from buggering up your data. Lastly, when doing these tests make
sure that the Dynon setup has the auto ON/OFF mode disabled to ensure
that you can turn everything on standing still.
Regards,
Sebastien
On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 3:58 PM > wrote:
>
The static test technician is coming back to the airpark tomorrow so can
someone PLEASE help me troubleshoot a failed test transponder? I also
posted this same request on the Dynon forum hoping to get a
troubleshooting
answer tonight.
I tried to get a pitot static test today and the system failed the
transponder Mode S interrogations received component of the test. He was
using the Tol-Instruments T-48 MODE S/ATCRBS TRANSPONDER RAMP TEST SET.
He
said that the test set was receiving between 65 to 100 percent of the
interrogations and the device reports the lowest number as the result
and
anything less than 90 percent is considered a fail so my system got a 65
percent.
After the fail I switched the antenna from the transponder to the ADS-B
antenna and the result was the same so it seems that the antenna was not
at
fault.
The technician had me switch it to Mode A and he used a different test
kit
called a AV-17 AVIONICS TESTER and the mode A and Mode C system worked
great
with 100 percent replies received however when he uses the T-48 MODE S
tester the same problem.
The transponder is the Dynon -261 unit.
The setup shows the following:
ON-LINE HW22.03 FW01.02 SW02.11
USA 91.227 COMPLIANT NO
GPS DATA (OFFLINE) GARMIN ADS-B/ADS-B+
PRESSURE ALTITUDE OK SKYVIEW
TAIL NUMBER shows my N-Number
TRANSPONDER HEX CODE A0088C
ADS-B IN FREQ (BOTH SV-ADSB-472)
TIS TRAFFIC is ON
What troubleshooting steps should I take now? How do I determine if it
is a
programming issue or cable or the unit???
He is coming back to the airport tomorrow so if it is something that I
can
reprogram of fix please let me know.
THANKS
Bill
-
Electric-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
WIKI -
errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Multiple switches on the same light? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
I think that you could accomplish your goal by using a diode to prevent the
full-bright circuit from interfering with the dimmer circuit. I can not be more
specific without knowing exactly how the circuits are wired.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500853#500853
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Multiple switches to the same light? |
Dan,
You will want to separate the power sources.=C2-=C2-
You could accomplish this with a SPDT on-off-on switch.=C2- The Center po
sition would be Off, the Up position (full bright) would be fed with full p
ower and the Down position (dimmer mode)=C2- would be fed from the dimmer
just like the other panel lights you want to dim.
The terminals on the switch would be as follows:=C2- top terminal - full
power (from lighting circuit)=C2- center terminal - feed to the map light
=C2- bottom terminal - dimmer output (in parallel with other panel lights
)
You could run into issues if the map light draws considerably more current
than the other panel lights.=C2- It might cause un-even dimming when the
map light is on the dimmer circuit.
Also, you have to be sure not to exceed the power output of your dimmer wit
h the addition of the map light.=C2- You would have to experiment a littl
e to see if it will work to your satisfaction.=C2-
-Jeff
rote:
Is there anything wrong with (i) wiring a Map Light to a switch with that
name on the panel so that the light it can simply be turned on and off, AND
(ii) wiring it to a dimmer circuit that controls some additional lights so
that they can all be dimmed at once?=C2- If only the Map Light switch we
re turned on, the Map Light would just come on.=C2- If only the dimmer we
re turned on, the Map Light would get brighter and dimmer with adjustments
to the pot.=C2- If both were turned on, what happens?=C2- I would assum
e the dimmer would just be ineffective.
I want to be able to turn the light on and off--full power--and be able to
separately dim it with others.=C2- Can I just do it the way I described?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Multiple switches on the same light? |
| From: | "AdventureD" <dobrien(at)microfoundations.com> |
The attachment shows what I was thinking.
1. Both switches off -- no lights on.
2. Map Light switch on, POT off -- Map Light on full bright.
3. Map Light swtich off, POT on -- POT controls brightness of both lights
4. Both switches on -- POT gets no juice, Map Light on full bright.
Thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500856#500856
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dimable_light_circuit_473.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Cox <flyboyron(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 03/03/21 |
From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts?
Have you considered asking your wife to take responsibility for keeping her
car in operating condition?
...
-- Art Z.
Yes. I have. As I'm sure you all know, every choice has its costs,
trade-offs and consequences. =F0=9F=98=89. I'll suggest that and Sebastien'
s list of
choices to her today. That should be enjoyable. =F0=9F=98=8A
This isn't a huge deal. I've just been looking for a simple solution, and
it is indeed to save me trouble, not so much her. I'm trying throughout our
lives to make as much of them as possible "maintenance free."
This is just one more incremental step that I'd like to work out. It's only
happened twice in the last year or so, it's not really what one would call
a chronic problem. But in this house, I'm the AAA, and it's far easier to
prevent a problem than to solve it.
As I get older, I find automatic solutions more reliable than my own
memory, let alone hers, but I know there are certainly other ways to deal
with this one.
I could use a Google calendar reminder, etc., for sure. But I also like the
idea of an actual condition monitor, rather than just a time-based one. And
I enjoy learning what is available for things like this as technology
progresses.
I appreciate all your constructive suggestions. I'm sure it will get worked
out.
Ron
> From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts?
>
> Have you considered asking your wife to take responsibility for keeping h
er
> car in operating condition? Let her choose between either driving it enou
gh
> to keep the battery charged or using an external battery maintainer. Of
> course, the possibility exists that she doesn't care enough about whether
> her car starts to do anything about it.
This may be your problem, not her problem.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
> From: Sebastien <cluros(at)GMAIL.COM>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: 12v battery monitor with WiFi alerts?
>
> Art I was thinking replace the car, the wife, or preferably both but Ron
> has probably already considered and dismissed those options.
>
> ...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Multiple switches on the same light? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Jeff had a good idea. Below is a schematic of his suggestion.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500859#500859
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/map_light_114.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Multiple switches on the same light? |
Joe, thanks for drawing that up!
Picture worth 1000 words ;)
-Jeff
m> wrote:
Jeff had a good idea.=C2- Below is a schematic of his suggestion.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500859#500859
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/map_light_114.jpg
-
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Multiple switches on the same light? |
| From: | "AdventureD" <dobrien(at)microfoundations.com> |
The problem is my Map Light rocker (already in the panel) is a single throw double
pole switch. I should have mentioned that. I think my diagram works given
that fact.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500861#500861
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Multiple switches on the same light? |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
If you use the 2 position switch, move the other light from switch terminal 5 to
terminal 4. The other light will always be controlled by the dimmer regardless
of the switch position. The map light will either be full bright or controlled
by
the dimmer but never off.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500862#500862
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
Greetings,
I am putting a homemade elevator in the hangar. It will have a stop at the
top (living quarters over hangar) a stop in the middle (small storage room
over top of hangar bathroom) and a stop at the bottom (hangar level).
I will power this with a 12 volt winch that comes with a wireless remote
control.
Here's how I would like it to work. For normal operation, the remote "up"
or "down" button would be used to move the elevator cab. When the cab
reaches it's destination, a limit switch would cut off power to the winch.
For accessing the storage over the hangar, a second switch would put the
elevator controls into "mode b." When in mode b the remote would then be
used to move the cab to and from the middle stop.
Can you guys help me to understand how I can accomplish this using limit
switches and relay(s)?
Thanks,
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Does the winch have any built-in limit switches? Do you have a wiring diagram
for the winch?
Will people be riding in the elevator? If so, will there be some way to keep the
elevator from falling if the cable breaks? There are mechanical designs that
allow an elevator to move slowly, but stop it if it moves fast (falls).
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500870#500870
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
Is this elevator for people or goods?
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021, 10:11 Ken Ryan wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I am putting a homemade elevator in the hangar. It will have a stop at the
> top (living quarters over hangar) a stop in the middle (small storage room
> over top of hangar bathroom) and a stop at the bottom (hangar level).
>
> I will power this with a 12 volt winch that comes with a wireless remote
> control.
>
> Here's how I would like it to work. For normal operation, the remote "up"
> or "down" button would be used to move the elevator cab. When the cab
> reaches it's destination, a limit switch would cut off power to the winch.
>
> For accessing the storage over the hangar, a second switch would put the
> elevator controls into "mode b." When in mode b the remote would then be
> used to move the cab to and from the middle stop.
>
> Can you guys help me to understand how I can accomplish this using limit
> switches and relay(s)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 3/6/2021 12:04 PM, Ken Ryan wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I am putting a homemade elevator in the hangar. It will have a stop at
> the top (living quarters over hangar) a stop in the middle (small
> storage room over top of hangar bathroom) and a stop at the bottom
> (hangar level).
>
> I will power this with a 12 volt winch that comes with a wireless
> remote control.
>
> Here's how I would like it to work. For normal operation, the remote
> "up" or "down" button would be used to move the elevator cab. When the
> cab reaches it's destination, a limit switch would cut off power to
> the winch.
>
> For accessing the storage over the hangar, a second switch would put
> the elevator controls into "mode b." When in mode b the remote would
> then be used to move the cab to and from the middle stop.
>
> Can you guys help me to understand how I can accomplish this using
> limit switches and relay(s)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
Assuming observation of 'people protection' others mentioned, all you
really need is limit switches at top & bottom. Easiest drawing I found
with a quick search:
https://www.hamradio.me/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/5_atbottom.gif
The winch will have a DPDT *relay* to run the winch in/out. Replace the
word 'switch' in the drawing with 'relay', and wire your limit switches
in series with the winch motor, as shown.
I'm assuming that you intend to use the winch control as designed, where
you must hold the button in the desired direction to keep the winch
running. If you want to stop in the middle, just release the button at
the right point. You *could* make it work with a push&release circuit
for the up/down buttons, but it would be a lot more complicated.
If the middle level is only accessed from the ground floor, then you
could add a 2nd upper limit switch, and use the 'mode B' switch to
electrically replace the top floor switch with the mid level switch.
None of the above incorporates any kind of 'call' feature. If the
spousal unit is upstairs and you're not, you'd need some way to control
from multiple locations. Maybe with manual buttons that can also drive
the DPDT relay, but you need to be sure of a pecking order for the
controls, similar to the pilot/copilot trim controls in an a/c. You can
find diagrams (but don't try to use their tiny relays!) for that on the
Ray Allen site.
Charlie
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
Joe, I haven't picked out a specific winch. Most likely an inexpensive
winch or hoist from Harbor Freight. I have had a homemade elevator for 15
years, so I'm comfortable hanging from a cable. My existing one just uses a
standard control box with spring loaded buttons for "up" and "down." But I
want to introduce the idea of limit switches so that you can't overshoot or
undershoot the destination.
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 10:01 AM user9253 wrote:
>
> Does the winch have any built-in limit switches? Do you have a wiring
> diagram for the winch?
> Will people be riding in the elevator? If so, will there be some way to
> keep the
> elevator from falling if the cable breaks? There are mechanical designs
> that
> allow an elevator to move slowly, but stop it if it moves fast (falls).
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500870#500870
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
You should control it from an arduino. Place a microswitch at each place
you want to stop, run the arduino to relays controlling the winch, and use
your phone to tell the arduino which floor you want to go to.
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021, 15:10 Ken Ryan wrote:
> Joe, I haven't picked out a specific winch. Most likely an inexpensive
> winch or hoist from Harbor Freight. I have had a homemade elevator for 15
> years, so I'm comfortable hanging from a cable. My existing one just uses a
> standard control box with spring loaded buttons for "up" and "down." But I
> want to introduce the idea of limit switches so that you can't overshoot or
> undershoot the destination.
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 10:01 AM user9253 wrote:
>
>>
>> Does the winch have any built-in limit switches? Do you have a wiring
>> diagram for the winch?
>> Will people be riding in the elevator? If so, will there be some way to
>> keep the
>> elevator from falling if the cable breaks? There are mechanical designs
>> that
>> allow an elevator to move slowly, but stop it if it moves fast (falls).
>>
>> --------
>> Joe Gores
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500870#500870
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
Putting people in a home-made elevator run from a harbour freight winch controlled
by an Arduino running home-written code. Thats adventurous!
On Mar 6, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Sebastien wrote:
You should control it from an arduino. Place a microswitch at each place you want
to stop, run the arduino to relays controlling the winch, and use your phone
to tell the arduino which floor you want to go to.
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021, 15:10 Ken Ryan wrote:
Joe, I haven't picked out a specific winch. Most likely an inexpensive winch or
hoist from Harbor Freight. I have had a homemade elevator for 15 years, so I'm
comfortable hanging from a cable. My existing one just uses a standard control
box with spring loaded buttons for "up" and "down." But I want to introduce
the idea of limit switches so that you can't overshoot or undershoot the destination.
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 10:01 AM user9253 wrote:
Does the winch have any built-in limit switches? Do you have a wiring diagram
for the winch?
Will people be riding in the elevator? If so, will there be some way to keep the
elevator from falling if the cable breaks? There are mechanical designs that
allow an elevator to move slowly, but stop it if it moves fast (falls).
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500870#500870
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
As adventurous as putting people in a homemade airplane?
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021, 17:12 Alec Myers wrote:
>
> Putting people in a home-made elevator run from a harbour freight winch
> controlled by an Arduino running home-written code. That=99s advent
urous!
>
>
> On Mar 6, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Sebastien wrote:
>
> You should control it from an arduino. Place a microswitch at each place
> you want to stop, run the arduino to relays controlling the winch, and us
e
> your phone to tell the arduino which floor you want to go to.
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021, 15:10 Ken Ryan wrote:
> Joe, I haven't picked out a specific winch. Most likely an inexpensive
> winch or hoist from Harbor Freight. I have had a homemade elevator for 15
> years, so I'm comfortable hanging from a cable. My existing one just uses
a
> standard control box with spring loaded buttons for "up" and "down." But
I
> want to introduce the idea of limit switches so that you can't overshoot
or
> undershoot the destination.
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 10:01 AM user9253 wrote:
>
> Does the winch have any built-in limit switches? Do you have a wiring
> diagram for the winch?
> Will people be riding in the elevator? If so, will there be some way to
> keep the
> elevator from falling if the cable breaks? There are mechanical designs
> that
> allow an elevator to move slowly, but stop it if it moves fast (falls).
>
> --------
> Joe Gores
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500870#500870
>
>
> ==========
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> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
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>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | EFIS Erratic Temp Readings |
Hello
Update on my erratic temp readings, I shorted all the temp inputs and
connected one shielded CHT temperature sensor and the problem went away.
Have now replaced all CHT sensors with shielded sensors that I made up using
K type thermocouple wire from Aircraft Spruce and shielded it with braid
grounded at one end. Everything stable now.
I have an MGL EFIS and had erratic EGT and CHT temp readings. EGT sensors
seem to be grounded already and did not cause a problem once I shorted
unused inputs.
Thanks for all the help
Mike
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: February 6, 2021 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings
snipped
Did you put shorts across them or were they
simply disconnected?
No, they were not shorted, simply disconnected. Will try
with them shorted next week.
I would never have thought of shorting them
I did remove the alternator and ran the engine with no
alternator and that made no difference,
Readings were still erratic
Thanks
Mike
Hi Mike,
Can you remind us whether the engine is 'standard' mags & carb (or Bendix
style injection), or if it has some combination of electronic ignition/fuel
injection?
Thanks,
Charlie
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
> On Mar 6, 2021, at 2:49 PM, Sebastien wrote:
> Can you guys help me to understand how I can accomplish this using lim
it switches and relay(s)?
> Thanks,Ken
Ken,
You will need to construct rails up the shaft and guides on the elevat
or to keep the elevator
straight and true while in motion. Then build an arm on the side of the
car to stick out to the side to
hit a limit switch. The switch could be on the order of a Honeywell lsa1
a. Fasten them to the rails or
the walls and adjust them so the arm will trigger them when the car gets
to it=99s limit.
Larry
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utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more
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Harry and Meghan Interview Cost CBS At Least $7M
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He Has Helped More People Die in California Than Anyone
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
Because I already built one elevator that I have been using for about 15
years, I'm confident in the physical aspects of this project. It is just
the electrical control of the winch/hoist motor that I need help figuring
out.
Again, the elevator has three stops--lower, middle and upper. The simplest
solution, the one that I have implemented on my home elevator, is a simple
control box with two buttons, up and down. The buttons are spring loaded,
so I just release the buttons when I get where I am going. It works quite
well, and if I end up doing the same in the hangar that will be okay.
But I would like to improve upon this by using limit switches and relays to
make the elevator cab consistently stop at the same spot, and using a
remote control to eliminate the need for connecting the motor power cord to
the cab. So it seems to me that I need something like this:
1. A relay for the motor power cable that has two positions, one for
running the motor forward and one for running the cable in reverse
2. 3 limit switches, one for sensing each level the cab must stop at
3. Some way of bringing the limit switch for the middle level in and out of
the system, because normally I will not be stopping at the middle level
I can't figure out are whether the relay should be NO or NC or maybe no
"open" connection at all and how to configure the limit switches.
It may not be worth doing, since the spring button control box does work.
On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 4:38 AM Larry Mac Donald wrote:
>
>
> On Mar 6, 2021, at 2:49 PM, Sebastien wrote:
>
>> Can you guys help me to understand how I can accomplish this using limit
>> switches and relay(s)?
>> Thanks,Ken
>>
> Ken,
> You will need to construct rails up the shaft and guides on the elevator
> to keep the elevator
> straight and true while in motion. Then build an arm on the side of the
> car to stick out to the side to
> hit a limit switch. The switch could be on the order of a Honeywell lsa1a
.
> Fasten them to the rails or
> the walls and adjust them so the arm will trigger them when the car gets
> to it=99s limit.
> Larry
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
>
> Top News - Sponsored By Newser
>
>
> - *Trump to Top GOP Fundraisers: Stop Using My Name*
> <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/6044d5ed72c4755ec2528st02vuc
1>
> - *Harry and Meghan Interview Cost CBS At Least $7M*
> <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/6044d5ed9618655ec2528st02vuc
2>
> - *He Has Helped More People Die in California Than Anyone*
> <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/6044d5edb97d055ec2528st02vuc
3>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
Normally, a limit switch will turn one direction off, and will not allow m
ovement in that direction.=C2- You have to move the car in the opposite d
irection before any movement in the first direction is possible.=C2- Sinc
e you have a stop in the middle, I think you are limited to either manual o
r computer control.=C2-=C2-
As far as the physical protection is concerned, I think the traditional saf
ety feature is that the car is suspended from the cable by the center of a
leaf spring that curves up in the middle.=C2- The leaf spring passes thro
ugh loops on either end that hold the car.=C2- When there is weight on th
e spring, the ends are pulled away from the side rails.=C2- If the cable
were to break, the spring is release and brake pads push against the side r
ails.=C2- It is easy enough to design the mechanical advantage such that
the car won't move up or down unless the spring is in tension.=C2- Worse
case scenario is that you're stuck between floors when the cable breaks.
com> wrote:
Because I already=C2-built one elevator that I have been using for about
15 years, I'm confident in the physical aspects of this project. It is jus
t the electrical control of the winch/hoist motor that I need help figuring
out.=C2-
Again, the elevator has three stops--lower, middle and upper. The simplest
solution, the one that I have implemented on my home elevator, is a simple
control box with two buttons, up and down. The buttons are spring loaded, s
o I just release the buttons when I get where I am going. It works quite we
ll, and if I end up doing the same in the hangar that will be okay.=C2-
But I would like to improve upon this by using limit switches and relays to
make the elevator cab consistently stop at the same spot, and using a remo
te control to eliminate the need for connecting the motor power cord to the
cab. So it seems to me that I need something like this:
1. A relay for the motor power cable that has two positions, one for runnin
g the motor forward and one for running the cable in reverse
2. 3 limit switches, one for sensing each level the cab must stop at
3. Some way of bringing the limit switch for the middle level in and out of
the system, because normally I will not be stopping at the middle level
I can't figure out are whether the relay should be NO or NC or maybe no "op
en" connection at all and how to configure the limit switches.=C2-
It may not be worth doing, since the spring button control box does work.
On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 4:38 AM Larry Mac Donald wrote:
On Mar 6, 2021, at 2:49 PM, Sebastien wrote:
Can you guys help me to understand how I can accomplish this using limit sw
itches and relay(s)?Thanks,Ken
Ken, You will need to construct rails up the shaft and guides on the eleva
tor to keep the elevator=C2-straight and true while in motion. Then build
an arm on the side of the car to stick out to the side to=C2-hit a limit
switch. The switch could be on the order of a Honeywell lsa1a. Fasten them
to the rails or=C2-the walls and adjust them so the arm will trigger the
m when the car gets to it=99s limit. Larry
____________________________________________________________
Top News - Sponsored By Newser
- Trump to Top GOP Fundraisers: Stop Using My Name
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Ken Some thoughts on hangar elevator: ** I worked on a project and was using
Northern Tools 120vac cable hoist 1100/2200lb with pretty good success. It has
an ultimate up limit switch built in. Instead of having the hoist solid mounted,
it was on an electric trolley that rides on an I beam. The trolley works
just semi OK with limited load and a lot of fiddling to get balance just right.
It had idlers on one side and drive on the other. With higher loads it was unreliable
and motors would burn out. I modified to use 2 drive motors and it works
great. Travel was a little more than 16 feet. Don't know if you could use
120vac or if having it on a trolley would make sense for you. Anyway in the event
of a power failure I made up an AC battery. Needed to use a round cell AGM
starting battery (I forget name of mfg but auto places sell them) connected
to an inverter. It would run everything easily for at least enough to get it to
maximum travel and down. For up and down and travel I modified a single hand
held controller to run the hoist up and down and run 1 trolley motor forward
with the other one in reverse (and vise versa). I made 2 controllers, one hand
held and one huge giant joystick. They were connected with 4 conductor turn lock
220vac plug and sockets with some pretty nice stranded wire with tough flexible
black water proof outer coating, all from HD or Lowes. You could switch
between controllers by just unplugging 4 conductor twist lock plug. I used McMaster
micro switches on the joystick. Works a treat, never had a failure. As far
as what you are doing, you need to put some strong think into how not to hurt
physical switches if that's what you want to use. Perhaps an option could be
to use a proximity switch (ie reed switch) or a light beam and sensor like
a garage door opener (have them drive relay/s). The Northern Tool hoist comes
with a pulley. If you direct connect load to hoist it's rated for 1,100lbs. If
you put pulley on load, then put cable through the pulley and attach back to
hoist rati!
ng is 2,
200lbs. Of course it moves half as fast as a single cable and for a given movement
it uses twice as much cable. Just some ideas. If you need anymore details
please ask. Consider if you go remote control to have several emergency stop buttons
where you can get thing turned off from where ever you are. I'm not too
much worried about the transmission failing and giving you a free fall as some
creature getting tangled up in things and getting body pulled apart in some
gruesome and messy way. I built a unit that needed to be blessed for carrying
humans. Cost of unit was more than 10 times that of Northern Tools unit. It was
probably 4 or 5 times heavier and a lot larger. It was probably top down rated
at 1,100lbs, it used a cable about 3/8" thick and had a slipper clutch. You
see the clutch grabbed the cable, you would figure your load, then set clutch
a little stronger than the load but not enough more to mutilate human machines.
I was looking into making things remote control, have some experience with
Arduinos and Raspberry Pis, sorry I just don't have enough faith in them. If it
were only you ever operating, perhaps maby, but if someones dumb thumb gets
put on control and or there is a genuine failure, this has some serious potential
to harm. I was looking into using a model aeroplane radio control to actuate
servos that would be installed inside my huge joystick and actuate switches.
Good Luck Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500888#500888
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hangar elevator |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Ken
Here's the hoist:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200712245_200712245
It can be hard mounted in 1 spot or mounted on a trolley. If mounted on an I beam
you can have it electrically operated like I did using 1 drive motor (or modify
to use 2) or they sell trolleys that are just rollers and you push the hoist
manually.
If you were to use proximity sensors with reed switch, if you wanted to disable
middle floor, just remove magnet or break switch circuit by either removing a
wire or having a series switch. Depending on how long you need to run things,
you may be able to use relays with 12 or 24vdc coils (perhaps 5 volts) but rated
for 120vac current.
The up limit switch you just need to make something to grip cable and trip upper
limit lever on hoist. It would be adjustable so up is EZ. You could set this
upper limit a little shorter than your upper stop, now you would have some redundancy,
but it's a pretty reliable up limit. You absoluetly want to have whoever
is controlling hoist to have an emergency stop button (that's included in
the controller) and if you are ever carrying people (which you will read a gazillion
times in directions to never do so), then person needs an emergency shut
off in hand. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500889#500889
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Peer review, Z16 Rotax engine, Ducati Regulator |
| From: | "velletazjp" <velletazjp(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the details.
Even tough learning new skills is always fun and educative, I would keep a DIY
approach on last resort,
First, they seem to be readily available from B&C,
Second, its for a friend project, and I have no clue about elctronics etc, Id rather
spend some time on my on electric wiring,
Thank,
Ill try b&c once again, and then task my father on the subject, hes a retired electronic
engineer, Im sure hell understand all those little drawings
--------
2020 contribution paid
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500891#500891
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Peer review, Z16 Rotax engine, Ducati Regulator |
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
Le 08/03/2021 22:00, velletazjp a crit:
>
> Thanks for the details.
>
> Even tough learning new skills is always fun and educative, I would keep a DIY
approach on last resort,
>
> First, they seem to be readily available from B&C,
> Second, its for a friend project, and I have no clue about elctronics etc, Id
rather spend some time on my on electric wiring,
>
>
> Thank,
> Ill try b&c once again, and then task my father on the subject, hes a retired
electronic engineer, Im sure hell understand all those little drawings
>
Hi JP and all,
Why not ask B and C if they would accept to just sell the little module ?
BTW, do you happen to be related with Pierre-Andr ?
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912ULS External Alt Sense Wire |
| From: | "jnmeade" <jnmeade(at)southslope.net> |
I plan to run a sense wire from the IG terminal of the Denso 201080-0800 40A alternator
to the load side of the 25A CB that is used for a master switch on the
Flight Design CTSW. The sense wire will be about 5' long.
1. I'm thinking of using an 18AWG wire for the sense wire. I don't want any voltage
loss on this sense circuit.
2. Is there any particular need to insert a fuse? It would call for a 10A fuse.
If I need one, I'd probably use an inline automobile fuse but I haven't decided
to add a fuse or not. Your thought?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500897#500897
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Disable Rotax Internal Generator |
| From: | "jnmeade" <jnmeade(at)southslope.net> |
Since I am adding a 40A external alternator to my Flight Design CTSW, I want to
be able to disable the internal Rotax generator. My intention is to put a switch
in the line of at least one of the wires to the G terminal on the Silent
Hektik Voltage regulator.
1. Switch both wires or only one?
2. I'm not sure of the size of the existing yellow wire, but am thinking of using
a 16AWG wire. It will be about 5' long and go from the VR on the front of
the firewall to the instrument panel and back to the VR.
It is my plan to leave the CB engaged and normally leave the internal generator
off by opening the switch in the yellow wire. If the 40A alternator goes bad
I'd engage the internal generator.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500898#500898
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Disable Rotax Internal Generator |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Why not just switch the small gauge wire that goes to regulator terminal "C".
It only carries signal
current (milliamps). Only one wire is required from terminal C to a switch to
a fuse to the main power bus.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500899#500899
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS External Alt Sense Wire |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
The only way to lose voltage is for current to flow. A sense wire that carries
very
little current will have very little voltage drop. A 25 amp circuit breaker is
too big
to protect a small gauge wire. So protect the sense wire with a fuse. Wires subject
to engine vibration are more likely to short out than in other places in an airplane.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500901#500901
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | milspec wire chart? |
I troll ebay periodically looking for deals on various 'stuff' to keep on
hand. One of the harder calls is milspec wire. I'm aware that the most
common designator for what we'd normally use is M22759. But I've discovered
that the number after the ' / ' can make a significant difference in what
we're actually getting. It seems that it can spec not only the insulation
type (PTFE, ETFE, and other stuff), but type of copper, plating on the
copper (tin, silver, nickel, etc), and apparently other stuff, as well. '
/16 ' seems to be tin plated copper with ETFE insulation. But there are
others that would be useful to us (or not), if we knew the entire list of
variants. For instance, I don't want any nickel plated stuff because I
sometimes solder, and apparently the nickel plated stuff is intended only
for crimping.
M22759/X-Y-Z
I know that Y is gauge. Z is color, but I don't have the reference list.
And X is the biggie variable, to know what we're getting.
Can anyone share a quick reference chart that breaks out each section of
the spec, and shows all the numbers/letters with their meanings?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent or Jackie Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: milspec wire chart? |
See below. There is a seller on ebay called ApexJr who sells
PTFE-coated wire in a large variety of colors. He advertises it as
M22759/11 but I asked him about it once and in fact it is probably
M16878/4 or similar (see chart). Anyway, it's practically the same as
M22759 PTFE aviation grade wire and it=99s handy to be able to buy
colors for different circuits. Seems identical to me except for the
colors.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Ft-22-Awg-Stranded-1-2-3-Striped-Mil-Spec-600
V-Teflon-Wire-Audio-Tube-Amp/183768643409?epid=577237606&hash=item2ac9
76f751:g:DHcAAOSwDNdV53fC
-kent
> On Mar 9, 2021, at 12:06 PM, Charlie England
wrote:
>
> I troll ebay periodically looking for deals on various 'stuff' to keep
on hand. One of the harder calls is milspec wire. I'm aware that the
most common designator for what we'd normally use is M22759. But I've
discovered that the number after the ' / ' can make a significant
difference in what we're actually getting. It seems that it can spec not
only the insulation type (PTFE, ETFE, and other stuff), but type of
copper, plating on the copper (tin, silver, nickel, etc), and apparently
other stuff, as well. ' /16 ' seems to be tin plated copper with ETFE
insulation. But there are others that would be useful to us (or not), if
we knew the entire list of variants. For instance, I don't want any
nickel plated stuff because I sometimes solder, and apparently the
nickel plated stuff is intended only for crimping.
>
> M22759/X-Y-Z
> I know that Y is gauge. Z is color, but I don't have the reference
list. And X is the biggie variable, to know what we're getting.
>
> Can anyone share a quick reference chart that breaks out each
section of the spec, and shows all the numbers/letters with their
meanings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: milspec wire chart? |
| From: | "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Charlie,
My collection of wire reference docs is at https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1heBRkZu24BKki744OgyJzIHZ40E17_C5?usp=sharing
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YOtPiA3AdUsQEYR4nodBESNAo21rxdnx4pFs7VxXfuI/edit?usp=sharing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500919#500919
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: milspec wire chart? |
Hi Kent,
That chart is just what I was looking for. Many thanks! Pretty good prices
on the color coded wire, too.
Charlie
On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 4:33 AM Kent or Jackie Ashton
wrote:
> See below. There is a seller on ebay called ApexJr who sells PTFE-coated
> wire in a large variety of colors. He advertises it as M22759/11 but I
> asked him about it once and in fact it is probably M16878/4 or similar (s
ee
> chart). Anyway, it's practically the same as M22759 PTFE aviation grade
> wire and it=99s handy to be able to buy colors for different circui
ts. Seems
> identical to me except for the colors.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Ft-22-Awg-Stranded-1-2-3-Striped-Mil-Spec-60
0V-Teflon-Wire-Audio-Tube-Amp/183768643409?epid=577237606&hash=item2ac9
76f751:g:DHcAAOSwDNdV53fC
> -kent
>
>
> > On Mar 9, 2021, at 12:06 PM, Charlie England
> wrote:
> >
> > I troll ebay periodically looking for deals on various 'stuff' to keep
> on hand. One of the harder calls is milspec wire. I'm aware that the most
> common designator for what we'd normally use is M22759. But I've discover
ed
> that the number after the ' / ' can make a significant difference in what
> we're actually getting. It seems that it can spec not only the insulation
> type (PTFE, ETFE, and other stuff), but type of copper, plating on the
> copper (tin, silver, nickel, etc), and apparently other stuff, as well. '
> /16 ' seems to be tin plated copper with ETFE insulation. But there are
> others that would be useful to us (or not), if we knew the entire list of
> variants. For instance, I don't want any nickel plated stuff because I
> sometimes solder, and apparently the nickel plated stuff is intended only
> for crimping.
> >
> > M22759/X-Y-Z
> > I know that Y is gauge. Z is color, but I don't have the reference list
.
> And X is the biggie variable, to know what we're getting.
> >
> > Can anyone share a quick reference chart that breaks out each section
> of the spec, and shows all the numbers/letters with their meanings?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: milspec wire chart? |
Charlie,
FYI, 22759/11 is Teflon coated wire, NOT Tefzel [22759/16] coated. They ar
e different. I have lots of the 22759/11 in colors for my 8A. Tefzel is rat
her stiff and very resistant to abrasion. Teflon is soft, has an even highe
r temperature rating, BUT you must be very careful when bundling it. You ne
ed to avoid any tight bundling, wrapping or security fixtures. That is beca
use Teflon insulation can extrude. That will cause the insulation to move a
way from the tight area, which could cause a short circuit. It's very handy
for use behind the instrument panel, as it bends much easier than Tefzel.
It's also recommended for areas under the cowl that are exposed to high hea
t. Note the higher heat rating of /4 & /11 compared to /16.
https://www.rdswire.com/uploads/Datasheets/SAE-AS22759-16%20Formerly%20MIL-
W-22759-16.pdf
https://www.rdswire.com/uploads/Datasheets/SAE-AS22759-11%20Formerly%20MIL-
W-22759-11.pdf
https://www.rdswire.com/mil-w-22759-4
If you don't already have it, download and read "the bible", aka FAA AC 43-
13-1B with Change 1
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43.13-1B_w-c
hg1.pdf
This is a big document. Chapter 11 deals with the electrical system.
Charlie K
and7(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Kent,
That chart is just what I was looking for. Many thanks! Pretty good prices
on the color coded wire, too.
Charlie
On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 4:33 AM Kent or Jackie Ashton w
rote:
See below.=C2- There is a seller on ebay called ApexJr who sells PTFE-coa
ted wire in a large variety of colors.=C2- He advertises it as M22759/11
but I asked him about it once and in fact it is probably M16878/4 or simila
r (see chart).=C2- Anyway, it's practically the same as M22759 PTFE aviat
ion grade wire and it=99s handy to be able to buy colors for differen
t circuits.=C2- Seems identical to me except for the colors.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Ft-22-Awg-Stranded-1-2-3-Striped-Mil-Spec-600V
-Teflon-Wire-Audio-Tube-Amp/183768643409?epid=577237606&hash=item2ac976
f751:g:DHcAAOSwDNdV53fC
-kent
> On Mar 9, 2021, at 12:06 PM, Charlie England wrote
:
>
> I troll ebay periodically looking for deals on various 'stuff' to keep on
hand. One of the harder calls is milspec wire. I'm aware that the most com
mon designator for what we'd normally use is M22759. But I've discovered th
at the number after the ' / ' can make a significant difference in what we'
re actually getting. It seems that it can spec not only the insulation type
(PTFE, ETFE, and other stuff), but type of copper, plating on the copper (
tin, silver, nickel, etc), and apparently other stuff, as well. ' /16 ' see
ms to be tin plated copper with ETFE insulation. But there are others that
would be useful to us (or not), if we knew the entire list of variants. For
instance, I don't want any nickel plated stuff because I sometimes solder,
and apparently the nickel plated stuff is intended only for crimping.
>
> M22759/X-Y-Z
> I know that Y is gauge. Z is color, but I don't have the reference list.
And X is the biggie variable, to know what we're getting.
>
>=C2- =C2-Can anyone share a quick reference chart that breaks out each
section of the spec, and shows all the numbers/letters with their meanings
?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Milspec wire followup: PTFE vs ETFE |
Question for Bob N. or others who've used a lot of milspec wire:
I'm aware of the obvious differences between PTFE & ETFE; 'P' has higher
temp rating but tends to 'cold flow'. I
I'm pretty sure I've encountered PTFE in pre-built harnesses from some
avionics mfgrs, based on the way the insulation strips, vs known-ETFE wire
I have on hand. If we install with reasonable care, is there any reason to
fear using PTFE for wiring throughout the airframe?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 current sensor question |
| From: | "AdventureD" <dobrien(at)microfoundations.com> |
Resurrecting this old thread.
Suppose the hall effect sensor is on the fat wire from battery 2 in Z-14 with a
70 amp alternator 1 and a 20 amp alternator 2. Here are my questions (recognizing
that this is not debugging done in the airplane -- its for understanding
how this stuff works).
1. Under normal conditions, when both alternators and batteries are on and the
crossfeed is not closed, what will the gauge connected to the hall effect sensor
show? Will it show the voltage of the #2 battery and zero amps since the current
on the number 2 bus is being drawn from the alternator rather than from
the battery? Something else?
2. Suppose the #2 alternator craps out and the low voltage light comes on. If
I shut down the #2 alternator and leave the crossfeed open, what will the gauge
show? Will it show the same voltage for the #2 battery and the current draw
of the instruments on the #2 bus? Something else?
3. Suppose I close the cross feed contactor after the #2 alternator goes kaput
and is shut down. Does the gauge now show the voltage of the #2 battery and zero
current if the #1 alternator is sufficient to supply both buses?
4. Suppose I shut down both alternators, turn on both batteries, and close the
crossfeed. Since battery 1 and battery 2 are now connected, what will the gauge
show?
This is all by way of trying to understand what these volts/amps meters do.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500930#500930
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 current sensor question |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Hall effect sensors only measure current, not voltage.
If the hall effect sensor is located to measure current into or out of a battery,
then once the battery is recharged, the current into the battery will be near zero.
If the hall effect sensor is located to measure alternator output current, the
ammeter will show the combination of aircraft load current and battery recharge
current.
If the hall effect sensor is located to measure aircraft load current, then it
will
not be known if that current is coming from the battery or from an alternator.
Some builders elect to not install an ammeter. As long as the voltage is above
13.5 VDC, then the alternator must be working.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500931#500931
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rd2 <rd2(at)dejazzd.com> |
It looks like my original post got lost in internet space...
Does anyone know of/have experience with, or has anyone built an inexpensive aircraft
tug to share detail or suggestions?
Maturing shoulders and thorn rotator cuffs no longer lend themselves well to pulling
the bird out of the hangar, something that was "piece a'cake" some years
ago :)
Rumen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike Pienaar <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
I found a used mobility scooter for $200.00, works well
Very easy to convert and I have old batteries and the charge lasts a long time
Good luck
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 11, 2021, at 8:21 AM, rd2 wrote:
>
>
> It looks like my original post got lost in internet space...
>
> Does anyone know of/have experience with, or has anyone built an inexpensive
aircraft tug to share detail or suggestions?
> Maturing shoulders and thorn rotator cuffs no longer lend themselves well to
pulling the bird out of the hangar, something that was "piece a'cake" some years
ago :)
> Rumen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Milspec wire followup: PTFE vs ETFE |
At 11:22 AM 3/10/2021, you wrote:
>Question for Bob N. or others who've used a lot of milspec wire:
>I'm aware of the obvious differences between
>PTFE & ETFE; 'P' has higher temp rating but tends to 'cold flow'. I
>
>I'm pretty sure I've encountered PTFE in
>pre-built harnesses from some avionics mfgrs,=C2
>based on the way the insulation strips,=C2 vs
>known-ETFE wire I have on hand. If we install
>with reasonable care, is there any reason to
>fear using PTFE for wiring throughout the airframe?
PTFE (Teflon) is not 'more' desirable than ETFE (Tefzel) and
it has some downsides.
Greg Richter and I had some lengthy discussions on this
about 17 years back after I reviewed his "Wiring for Smart People"
publication.
https://tinyurl.com/qxvr6nx
I'm aware of no manufacturer that uses Teflon
for general airframe wiring. Of perhaps 30000
feet of wire I have in inventory, I don't think
there is a hundred feet of Teflon.
Here's a copy of the Wire Bible which was
updated on the website this morning. This is
a searchable pdf file that will allow you to
quickly identify about any wire product by
specification.
https://tinyurl.com/ydgacclw
Having said that, Teflon is not 'evil'. If you
got a heck of a deal on some I would not discourage
it's use in avionics harnesses but it's kinda
finicky to strip.
https://tinyurl.com/bol9x2n
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Milspec wire followup: PTFE vs ETFE |
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 10:48 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 11:22 AM 3/10/2021, you wrote:
>
> Question for Bob N. or others who've used a lot of milspec wire:
> I'm aware of the obvious differences between PTFE & ETFE; 'P' has higher
> temp rating but tends to 'cold flow'. I
>
> I'm pretty sure I've encountered PTFE in pre-built harnesses from some
> avionics mfgrs,=C3=82 based on the way the insulation strips,=C3=82 vs kn
own-ETFE
> wire I have on hand. If we install with reasonable care, is there any
> reason to fear using PTFE for wiring throughout the airframe?
>
>
> PTFE (Teflon) is not 'more' desirable than ETFE (Tefzel) and
> it has some downsides.
>
> Greg Richter and I had some lengthy discussions on this
> about 17 years back after I reviewed his "Wiring for Smart People"
> publication.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/qxvr6nx
>
> I'm aware of no manufacturer that uses Teflon
> for general airframe wiring. Of perhaps 30000
> feet of wire I have in inventory, I don't think
> there is a hundred feet of Teflon.
>
> Here's a copy of the Wire Bible which was
> updated on the website this morning. This is
> a searchable pdf file that will allow you to
> quickly identify about any wire product by
> specification.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/ydgacclw
>
> Having said that, Teflon is not 'evil'. If you
> got a heck of a deal on some I would not discourage
> it's use in avionics harnesses but it's kinda
> finicky to strip.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/bol9x2n
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
I'd agree that P is less desirable than E, because I'm not concerned about
extreme temp ratings and had minor concern about cold flow. I had spotted a
'deal' on about 1K ft of P (IIRC, it was ID'd as M22759/9), but then found
the same quantity of E (M22759/16) for about a penny more per foot. Not a
big enough price delta for the hassle.
Many thanks for the info; if I run across some P with a bigger price delta
in the future, I may well add some to my 'inventory'.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skywagon185guy <skywagon185(at)gmail.com> |
Many times you can find those used small garden riding mowers for sale
cheap. Throw the defunct mower section away, and tape up the cracked seat
cushion and you might have a winner.
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 8:14 AM rd2 wrote:
>
> It looks like my original post got lost in internet space...
>
> Does anyone know of/have experience with, or has anyone built an
> inexpensive aircraft tug to share detail or suggestions?
> Maturing shoulders and thorn rotator cuffs no longer lend themselves well
> to pulling the bird out of the hangar, something that was "piece a'cake"
> some years ago :)
> Rumen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "manvikakkar565" <manvikakkar565(at)gmail.com> |
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Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500939#500939
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rd2 <rd2(at)dejazzd.com> |
I found a used mobility scooter for $200.00, works well
Very easy to convert and I have old batteries and the charge lasts a long time
-->From: skywagon185guy <skywagon185(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: AC tug
Many times you can find those used small garden riding mowers for sale cheap. Throw
the defunct mower section away, and tape up the cracked seat cushion and
you might have a winner.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Kuc <bobkuc(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Milspec wire followup: PTFE vs ETFE |
I was building a plastic plane. At sun-n-fun I while back ago, I bought
wire from aren't vendor. It was labeled 20-3 uninsulated and was bundle in
100 ft rolls. Now I am building an rv7a and have some left over. Is there
a way to tell if the wire I have is ok for use in airplane? Coating on
wire is smooth and shiny and wire looks to be coated. Should I run.p and
get fresh wire from spruce?
Thanks
Another Bob K.
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021, 11:59 PM Charlie England wrote
:
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 10:48 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
>> At 11:22 AM 3/10/2021, you wrote:
>>
>> Question for Bob N. or others who've used a lot of milspec wire:
>> I'm aware of the obvious differences between PTFE & ETFE; 'P' has higher
>> temp rating but tends to 'cold flow'. I
>>
>> I'm pretty sure I've encountered PTFE in pre-built harnesses from some
>> avionics mfgrs,=C3=82 based on the way the insulation strips,=C3=82 vs k
nown-ETFE
>> wire I have on hand. If we install with reasonable care, is there any
>> reason to fear using PTFE for wiring throughout the airframe?
>>
>>
>> PTFE (Teflon) is not 'more' desirable than ETFE (Tefzel) and
>> it has some downsides.
>>
>> Greg Richter and I had some lengthy discussions on this
>> about 17 years back after I reviewed his "Wiring for Smart People"
>> publication.
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/qxvr6nx
>>
>> I'm aware of no manufacturer that uses Teflon
>> for general airframe wiring. Of perhaps 30000
>> feet of wire I have in inventory, I don't think
>> there is a hundred feet of Teflon.
>>
>> Here's a copy of the Wire Bible which was
>> updated on the website this morning. This is
>> a searchable pdf file that will allow you to
>> quickly identify about any wire product by
>> specification.
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/ydgacclw
>>
>> Having said that, Teflon is not 'evil'. If you
>> got a heck of a deal on some I would not discourage
>> it's use in avionics harnesses but it's kinda
>> finicky to strip.
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/bol9x2n
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
> I'd agree that P is less desirable than E, because I'm not concerned abou
t
> extreme temp ratings and had minor concern about cold flow. I had spotted
a
> 'deal' on about 1K ft of P (IIRC, it was ID'd as M22759/9), but then foun
d
> the same quantity of E (M22759/16) for about a penny more per foot. Not a
> big enough price delta for the hassle.
>
> Many thanks for the info; if I run across some P with a bigger price delt
a
> in the future, I may well add some to my 'inventory'.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com> |
Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter to
> jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot of
> power.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
I have found myself wondering how an electric bicycle motor might be put to
use to build a tug.
On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 4:10 AM GLEN MATEJCEK wrote:
>
>
> Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter
>> to jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot of
>> power.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com> |
I have found myself wondering how an electric bicycle motor might be put to
use to build a tug.
On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 4:10 AM GLEN MATEJCEK wrote:
>
>
> Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter
>> to jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot of
>> power.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rd2 <rd2(at)dejazzd.com> |
Thanks. However they are 12V and I am on 24V.
----- Original Message -----
From: GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter to jump
start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot of power.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
My scooter is 24 V
I only have a 12 V charger so that adds a small inconvenience
Keep well
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of rd2
Sent: March 13, 2021 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
Thanks. However they are 12V and I am on 24V.
----- Original Message -----
From: GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com <mailto:fly4grins(at)gmail.com> >
>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter
to jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot
of power.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rd2 <rd2(at)dejazzd.com> |
I wasn't familiar with scooters. Now I see a number with 2 12 V batteries - some
in parallel, some in series.
----- Original Message -----
From: mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
My scooter is 24 VI only have a 12 V charger so that adds a small inconvenienceKeep
well From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com>
On Behalf Of rd2
Sent: March 13, 2021 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug Thanks. However they are 12V and I am
on 24V. ----- Original Message -----
From: GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug Another data point is that you can rig
a ground power cable to a scooter to jump start your plane if needed. Those
scooter batteries pack a lot of power.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com> |
The several I have seen had two large AGM's in series, and crank an R-2800
at an amazing speed.
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
>Thanks. However they are 12V and I am on 24V.
On Sun, Mar 14, 2021 at 7:39 AM AeroElectric-List Digest Server <
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete AeroElectric-List Digest can also be found in either of
> the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the AeroElectric-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
> editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 21-03-13&Archive=AeroElectric
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 21-03-13&Archive=AeroElectric
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 03/13/21: 5
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 05:02 AM - Re: AC tug (GLEN MATEJCEK)
> 2. 05:46 AM - Re: Re: AC tug (Ken Ryan)
> 3. 05:46 AM - Re: Re: AC tug (Ken Ryan)
> 4. 06:05 AM - Re: Re: AC tug (rd2)
> 5. 03:31 PM - Re: Re: AC tug ()
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
> Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter to
> > jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot of
> > power.
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
> I have found myself wondering how an electric bicycle motor might be put to
> use to build a tug.
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 4:10 AM GLEN MATEJCEK wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter
> >> to jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot
> of
> >> power.
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
> I have found myself wondering how an electric bicycle motor might be put to
> use to build a tug.
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 4:10 AM GLEN MATEJCEK wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter
> >> to jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot
> of
> >> power.
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: rd2 <rd2(at)dejazzd.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
> Thanks. However they are 12V and I am on 24V.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
>
> Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter
> to jump
> start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot of power.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
> My scooter is 24 V
>
> I only have a 12 V charger so that adds a small inconvenience
>
> Keep well
>
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
> On Behalf Of rd2
> Sent: March 13, 2021 6:05 AM
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
>
> Thanks. However they are 12V and I am on 24V.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: GLEN MATEJCEK <fly4grins(at)gmail.com <mailto:fly4grins(at)gmail.com> >
> >
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AC tug
>
>
> Another data point is that you can rig a ground power cable to a scooter
> to jump start your plane if needed. Those scooter batteries pack a lot
> of power.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strange voltage regulator issue... |
| From: | "andymeyer" <meyerkc135(at)gmail.com> |
I have a 1982 Long EZ... Prestolite alternator from back in the day, along with
the original 3 wire voltage regulator with a big old cannon plug on it. From
what I can tell - fairly stock Long-EZ configuration from the books...
A few flights ago - humming along no problem at 14.4 volts... (PC680 battery). Upped it a year ago when I replaced the RG25XC. Trim pot like this under a cap... https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Through-Hole-Trimmer-Potentiometer/dp/B008LT4IGY
Last flight, noticed voltage up around 16 volts... shut the alternator down - voltage
fell to the ~12V range and slowly fell (as expected)... Came back and landed...
Went out tonight to troubleshoot... Started up at idle and right up around 16 volts...
Started spinning the screw back in the voltage regulator and it fell from
16.5 to around 15.8, then jumped down to 13.0. Turned screw back in, climbed
to 13.7 or so, then jumped back up to 16.5 or so... Repeatable... Wierd!
Probably time to replace the voltage regulator - she's got ~40 years on her from
what I can tell. Any other thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500978#500978
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strange voltage regulator issue... |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Check all of the electrical connections in the charging system for tightness and
corrosion. The alternator on-off switch is also suspect.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500979#500979
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daryl Thompson <flyer532(at)gmail.com> |
I am wanting to install a new voltmeter in my 14V Cherokee Six. What
recommendations do you have? Where would be the best place to sample the
volts with the master switch on? Thinking maybe at the master switch
itself but when I tried that the volts read 11V on a charged battery.
Should I just come directly off the bus bar?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strange voltage regulator issue... |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 3/14/2021 8:27 PM, andymeyer wrote:
>
> I have a 1982 Long EZ... Prestolite alternator from back in the day, along with
the original 3 wire voltage regulator with a big old cannon plug on it. From
what I can tell - fairly stock Long-EZ configuration from the books...
>
> A few flights ago - humming along no problem at 14.4 volts... (PC680 battery). Upped it a year ago when I replaced the RG25XC. Trim pot like this under a cap... https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Through-Hole-Trimmer-Potentiometer/dp/B008LT4IGY
>
> Last flight, noticed voltage up around 16 volts... shut the alternator down -
voltage fell to the ~12V range and slowly fell (as expected)... Came back and
landed...
>
> Went out tonight to troubleshoot... Started up at idle and right up around 16
volts... Started spinning the screw back in the voltage regulator and it fell
from 16.5 to around 15.8, then jumped down to 13.0. Turned screw back in, climbed
to 13.7 or so, then jumped back up to 16.5 or so... Repeatable... Wierd!
>
> Probably time to replace the voltage regulator - she's got ~40 years on her from
what I can tell. Any other thoughts?
>
>
No experience with that particular product, but the symptom description
sounds like what a potentiometer does when it gets a 'dead spot'. It
could just have some corrosion on that area in the resistance path
inside. *Might* be cleared with a few shots of tuner cleaner &
'exercising' the control a bit. Failing that, if you know the value of
the pot & have soldering equipment, you could just replace it.
Charlie
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
What voltage do you want to measure? Battery voltage? Bus bar voltage?
Wouldnt that inform where you measure it?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 14, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Daryl Thompson wrote:
>
>
> I am wanting to install a new voltmeter in my 14V Cherokee Six. What recommendations
do you have? Where would be the best place to sample the volts with
the master switch on? Thinking maybe at the master switch itself but when I tried
that the volts read 11V on a charged battery. Should I just come directly
off the bus bar?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Daryl Thompson <flyer532(at)gmail.com> |
Looking to keep tabs on the battery voltage but don't want to connect
directly to battery and have a continuous draw when the master switch is of
f
On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 8:19 AM Alec wrote:
>
> What voltage do you want to measure? Battery voltage? Bus bar voltage?
>
> Wouldn=99t that inform where you measure it?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 14, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Daryl Thompson wrote
:
> >
> > =EF=BB
> > I am wanting to install a new voltmeter in my 14V Cherokee Six. What
> recommendations do you have? Where would be the best place to sample th
e
> volts with the master switch on? Thinking maybe at the master switch
> itself but when I tried that the volts read 11V on a charged battery.
> Should I just come directly off the bus bar?
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skywagon185guy <skywagon185(at)gmail.com> |
You could use a 3 position swt. to toggle between battery, bus and off.
On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 5:31 AM Daryl Thompson wrote:
> Looking to keep tabs on the battery voltage but don't want to connect
> directly to battery and have a continuous draw when the master switch is
off
>
> On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 8:19 AM Alec wrote:
>
>>
>> What voltage do you want to measure? Battery voltage? Bus bar voltage?
>>
>> Wouldn=99t that inform where you measure it?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Mar 14, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Daryl Thompson
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > =EF=BB
>> > I am wanting to install a new voltmeter in my 14V Cherokee Six. What
>> recommendations do you have? Where would be the best place to sample t
he
>> volts with the master switch on? Thinking maybe at the master switch
>> itself but when I tried that the volts read 11V on a charged battery.
>> Should I just come directly off the bus bar?
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Luckey <jluckey(at)pacbell.net> |
The Master is no bueno because it's ground-seeking, so you are seeing the
voltage drop thru the master solenoid coil.=C2-=C2-
In my Cherokee, I ran mine from the back of the cigarette lighter cuz it wa
s close to where I mounted my voltmeter and it is already fused.
Just make sure you feed the voltmeter through a fuse or breaker.=C2-=C2
-
-Jeff
ail.com> wrote:
I am wanting to install a new voltmeter in my 14V Cherokee Six. What recom
mendations=C2-=C2-do you have?=C2- Where would be the best place to s
ample the volts with the master switch on?=C2- Thinking maybe at the mast
er switch itself but when I tried that the volts read 11V on a charged batt
ery. Should=C2-I just come directly off the bus bar?=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
At 07:28 AM 3/15/2021, you wrote:
>=C2 Looking to keep tabs on the battery voltage
>but don't=C2 want to connect directly to battery
>and have a continuous=C2 draw when the master switch is off
>
For all practical purposes voltage are equal
across the bus structure. You can tie the add-on
voltmeter to any source on the bus. It's not
uncommon to simply tap an existing breaker . . .
no new breaker or needed.
The only time you're going to read 'battery voltage'
is if the alternator is not running. So as soon
as you power up the bus but before starting
the engine, the meter displays LOADED battery voltage
for what ever accessories are presently turned
on.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "luciham20" <luciham20(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the information on this. I really enjoy the information. google (https://www.google.com/)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=500988#500988
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Forest of Tabs in Multiple Locations |
| From: | "MFleming" <sagriver(at)icloud.com> |
A fellow RV-7 builder has a B&C forest of tabs located on the pilot side of the
firewall with battery ground attaching on the hot side.
They also have a small cluster of tabs on the sub panel. This group of tabs is
electrically bonded to the sub panel and has a 14awg wire connecting the sub panel
tabs to the firewall tabs. This cluster on the sub panel is for the avionics
grounds.
Should the sub panel tabs be isolated from the sub panel or is it OK the way it
is?
--------
Michael Fleming
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501016#501016
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Forest of Tabs in Multiple Locations |
At 11:29 AM 3/19/2021, you wrote:
>
>A fellow RV-7 builder has a B&C forest of tabs located on the pilot
>side of the firewall with battery ground attaching on the hot side.
>
>They also have a small cluster of tabs on the sub panel. This group
>of tabs is electrically bonded to the sub panel and has a 14awg wire
>connecting the sub panel tabs to the firewall tabs. This cluster on
>the sub panel is for the avionics grounds.
>
>Should the sub panel tabs be isolated from the sub panel or is it OK
>the way it is?
The 14AWG jumper adds no value in a metal
airplane. I can be deleted and avionics grounded
at the sub-panel.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
| From: | "fasilpereira" <fasilpereira(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm looking for the database files for a BMA G4. Interested on any data before
2010. Please contact me by email if you have anything: fasilpereira(at)yahoo(dot)com
Thank you,
Fabricio
--------
Fabricio Pereira
Engineer / Pilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501050#501050
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS:(20) Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128/256/512GB $11,980CAD |
| From: | "mezmiter" <mezmiter(at)82ultra.com> |
Unbeatable Prices: Wholesales Prices
Available Products Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G
Storage Available: 128GB / 256GB / 512GB
These are Brand New Original Unlocked
Products are available and ready to ship the next day
All Prices Are Canadian Dollars
Whats App Chat +12898070703
Fast Free Shipping Worldwide
We are Located in Canada
One Year Apple Warranty
Minimum Order (5Pieces)
===============================================
Buy (5Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128GB $4,495
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===============================================
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Buy (10Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 256GB $7,990
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===============================================
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================================================
Buy (30Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128GB $14,970
Buy (30Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 256GB $17,970
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================================================
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501126#501126
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS:(30) Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128/256/512GB $14,970CAD |
| From: | "mezmiter" <mezmiter(at)82ultra.com> |
Unbeatable Prices: Wholesales Prices
Available Products Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G
Storage Available: 128GB / 256GB / 512GB
These are Brand New Original Unlocked
Products are available and ready to ship the next day
All Prices Are Canadian Dollars
Whats App Chat +12898070703
Fast Free Shipping Worldwide
We are Located in Canada
One Year Apple Warranty
Minimum Order (5Pieces)
===============================================
Buy (5Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128GB $4,495
Buy (5Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 256GB $4,995
Buy (5Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 512GB $5,995
===============================================
Buy (10Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128GB $6,990
Buy (10Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 256GB $7,990
Buy (10Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 512GB $9,990
===============================================
Buy (20Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128GB $11,980
Buy (20Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 256GB $13,980
Buy (20Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 512GB $17,980
================================================
Buy (30Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 128GB $14,970
Buy (30Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 256GB $17,970
Buy (30Pieces) New Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 5G 512GB $23,970
================================================
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501152#501152
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Forest of Tabs in Multiple Locations |
| From: | "MFleming" <sagriver(at)icloud.com> |
So, would it better if the forest of tabs was not grounded at the sub panel and
keep the connecting wire?
>From reading your book I thought it is better for all grounds to be tied to a
central ground location.
--------
Michael Fleming
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501159#501159
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Forest of Tabs in Multiple Locations |
| From: | "rockitdoc" <scott.shuler(at)colostate.edu> |
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect wrote:
> At 11:29 AM 3/19/2021, you wrote:
>
> >
> > A fellow RV-7 builder has a B&C forest of tabs located on the pilot side of
the firewall with battery ground attaching on the hot side.
> >
> > They also have a small cluster of tabs on the sub panel. This group of tabs
is electrically bonded to the sub panel and has a 14awg wire connecting the
sub panel tabs to the firewall tabs. This cluster on the sub panel is for the
avionics grounds.
> >
> > Should the sub panel tabs be isolated from the sub panel or is it OK the way
it is?
>
> The 14AWG jumper adds no value in a metal
> airplane. I can be deleted and avionics grounded
> at the sub-panel.
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
So, given the choice: 1) ground tab forest grounded to airframe locally at ground
tab mount, or 2) ground tab forest grounded by wire running to battery ground
at firewall, which is more 'desirable'? Either?
--------
RV14A
Began 7-23-20
Fuse and tail Completed 2-20-21
Wiring in Process
Waiting on Wings, Finish, Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501160#501160
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Common ground on LM335 doesn't work but common power |
does?
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Group Have some Gremlins visiting at hangar and wondering why they are now playing
nice. We have a Ilec SC7 variometer. It has a momentary switch that will
measure temperature. The temperature sender is a ST LM335 temperature sender.
It I think uses Zener technology. The Ilec provides 3 volts to the sender. The
LM335 has 3 leads, power, ground and you can add a trimmer pot. We are just
using 2 legs like the factory sender is using. Now for our problem, the factory
sender wired direct works perfect. Perhaps 1 or 2 degree changes. We decided
we want 6 channels. Purchased a nice ro9tary switch from McMaster good for 2
amps and 30 volts DC. We bread boarded 6 senders with a common ground and switched
power. Channels would go bonkers from time to time. It would act like the
sender was shorted which would have temp fall way down and it would climb back
up, then do it again. We were first using a very precise power supply that
we can vary voltage. We went from 12 to 14.5 volts, same problem. We had grounds
at power supply. Then we switched grounds to the ground at Ilec. No joy. We
tried a battery, no joy. We bypassed the switch completely, no joy, it's not
the switch. We had things on a bread board, made soldered connections, no joy?
Then we decided to share power and switch grounds. All is well? Anyone have any
ideas why switching power to senders and using common ground would give problems
but sharing power and switching grounds make things OK? BTW we have a handful
of senders, we tried many, when grounds were shared random flakiness. Thx.
Ron P. P=Perplexed!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501166#501166
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Common ground on LM335 doesn't work but common |
power does?
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
You wrote, "fall way down and it would climb back up, then do it again".
That makes me think of a capacitor charging and discharging.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501168#501168
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Poor Man's Battery Tester |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
XH-M609 Low voltage shut off
I purchased this module for about $5 on eBay from a seller in China. The relay
is SPST.
The digital display is not steady but flickers or oscillates between a higher and
lower digit. That is annoying.
The displayed voltage is 0.5 volts lower than the actual voltage.
The module did not come with any instructions. I learned how to use it via trial
and error.
There are two things that need to be set, hysteresis and low voltage shut off.
Press and release the button on the right to see the hysteresis set-point.
To change the set-point, push the right button twice while the set-point is displayed.
The decimal point will flash, indicating that it is in set mode.
Press the buttons labeled + and to raise or lower the hysteresis set-point.
I set mine at 1.5 volts. If set too high, the relay will not energize.
Dont dawdle because the display will revert back to battery voltage after a few
seconds.
Press and release the button on the left to see the low voltage shutoff set-point.
To change the set-point,
push the left button twice while the set-point is displayed. The decimal point
will flash, indicating it is in set mode.
Press the buttons labeled + and to raise or lower the low voltage set-point.
I set mine at 10.5 volts which is actually 11 volts because the display is a half
volt lower than the actual voltage.
As suggested by Bob, I used two series diodes (1N4148) in parallel with the clock
to limit the clock
voltage to 1.5 volts. A 2K ohm series resistor limits diode and battery current
to 50ma.
I did not want to damage the clock by soldering. So I cut a wooden dowel
to the same length as an AA battery. I installed this wooden battery into
the clock along with the clock power wires pinched between the wood and battery
contacts.
Do not make the mistake that I did and use too small wires between the battery
and XH-M609.
The relay chattered because too much voltage was dropped across the battery wires.
The XH-M609 saw low voltage and shut off the relay. With the load shut off, the
voltage increased, the relay energized.
This repeated over and over. The relay sounded like a buzzer. I then used 14AWG
wires and all was well.
The load that I used is an old automotive incandescent fog light.
With a battery connected to the test circuit, the clock ran for 70 minutes before
it shut off.
Although the XH-M609 has its faults, it worked as intended to shut off the load
when battery voltage dropped to 11 volts.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501213#501213
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/battery_load_tester___221.png
http://forums.matronics.com//files/battery_load_tester__157.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Garmin 400 series display replacement |
Hello all,
Our Garmin GPS 400 memory battery was successfully replaced some months
ago, thanks to the advices on the list.
Here is a small summary which could help (only in French at the moment,
but if you ask...)
http://contrails.free.fr/instruments_bat_gps.php
Now another issue : the display begins to show some faded areas.
Question : does someone on the list know of a source for a replacement
screen?
Any input appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Pengilly <peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 400 series display replacement |
As far as I know Garmin are still supporting the 400 series, you may be better
off sending it in.
The European repair centre is in Southampton.
A customer with 2 x GNC430 in a DA40 arrived at work a couple of years ago with
both units not working correctly.
In the end we had to send both back to Garmin for repair. He had disassembled both
and made errors in assembly.
Might be worth asking your local service centre what the cost will be?
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com>
On Behalf Of GTH
Sent: 03 April 2021 00:09
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Garmin 400 series display replacement
Hello all,
Our Garmin GPS 400 memory battery was successfully replaced some months ago, thanks
to the advices on the list.
Here is a small summary which could help (only in French at the moment, but if
you ask...)
http://contrails.free.fr/instruments_bat_gps.php
Now another issue : the display begins to show some faded areas.
Question : does someone on the list know of a source for a replacement
screen?
Any input appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 400 series display replacement |
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
Le 03/04/2021 10:03, Peter Pengilly a crit:
>
> As far as I know Garmin are still supporting the 400 series, you may be better
off sending it in.
> The European repair centre is in Southampton.
> A customer with 2 x GNC430 in a DA40 arrived at work a couple of years ago with
both units not working correctly.
> In the end we had to send both back to Garmin for repair. He had disassembled
both and made errors in assembly.
> Might be worth asking your local service centre what the cost will be?
>
Peter,
Thank you for answering.
Of course the Garmin service center is the way to go, and we'll try it
when everything else fails, but Garmin charges are outrageous.
Battery replacement is charged several hundreds of dollars for a part
available in the next DIY store for a few bucks/quids/euros.
So *if* the part is available to end customers, I'd try and replace it
at home. The Garmin is more or less a small computer with two i386
processors in a very neat and sturdy housing.
LCDs for various Garmin GPSs sell for $15-20 on the Web.
But yes, I'll ask the service center in Luxembourg, they sold us the
unit some 18 years ago!
--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Burbidge <mburbidg(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Splicing shielded pair |
Hi,
Is there a video or instructions somewhere that describe how to splice shie
lded pair wire?
Thanks,
Michael-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Thermocouple Accuracy |
I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of
200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
I am using a MGL EFIS unit
All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark
plug
Thanks
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
unless you put a lot of salt in the water for the freezing part, that
reading should be very close to 32 degrees. The boiling temp is fine,
takes some effort to get the water above 200.
On 4/3/2021 3:58 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading
> of 200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>
> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>
> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>
> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark
> plug
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
Where=99s the other junction?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 3, 2021, at 7:00 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of 2
00 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark p
lug
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent or Jackie Ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
What=99s your elevation? https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boilin
g-points-water-altitude-d_1344.html
-Kent
> On Apr 3, 2021, at 7:11 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of 2
00 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark p
lug
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Splicing shielded pair |
Michael,
I soldered ground wires to the shields. You could probably adapt that
technique. See the three photos at the bottom of my blog post Wiring
Harness Installed
.
Cheers,
-- Art Z.
On Sat, Apr 3, 2021 at 9:24 AM Michael Burbidge wrote:
> Hi,
>
>
> Is there a video or instructions somewhere that describe how to splice
> shielded pair wire?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael-
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike Pienaar <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
Elevation is sea level
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:51 PM, Kent or Jackie Ashton wrot
e:
>
> =EF=BB
> What=99s your elevation? https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boil
ing-points-water-altitude-d_1344.html
> -Kent
>
>>> On Apr 3, 2021, at 7:11 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>> =EF=BB
>> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of
200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark p
lug
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike Pienaar <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
Normal water
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:48 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> unless you put a lot of salt in the water for the freezing part, that reading
should be very close to 32 degrees. The boiling temp is fine, takes some effort
to get the water above 200.
>
>> On 4/3/2021 3:58 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of 200
deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark plug
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike Pienaar <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
One end of the thermocouple wire is attached to the copper ring under the pl
ug, the other end is connected to the MGL RDAC unit that feeds signal to the
EFIS. There are no joins in the wire
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:53 PM, Alec wrote:
>
> =EF=BBWhere=99s the other junction?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>>> On Apr 3, 2021, at 7:00 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>> =EF=BB
>> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of
200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark p
lug
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Splicing shielded pair |
You strip back the shields, slide a length of shield braid over cable, and a
length of heat shrink. Splice and insulate the conductors individually on a
staggered basis, then slide the loose shield braid over the join and solder
around both ends. Finally insulate over the top with sleeving.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 4, 2021, at 12:22 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Michael,
>
> I soldered ground wires to the shields. You could probably adapt that tech
nique. See the three photos at the bottom of my blog post Wiring Harness Ins
talled.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
>
>
>> On Sat, Apr 3, 2021 at 9:24 AM Michael Burbidge wrot
e:
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> Is there a video or instructions somewhere that describe how to splice sh
ielded pair wire?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Michael-
>>
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two sto
nes together properly, sparks of fire emerge.
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
Well, to me, it sounds like the cold junction compensation is off by 10 degr
ees.
If that=99s it, then it=99s going to read 10 degrees low at all t
emperatures, and you=99re unlikely to care.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 4, 2021, at 1:56 AM, mike Pienaar wrote:
>
> =EF=BBOne end of the thermocouple wire is attached to the copper ring u
nder the plug, the other end is connected to the MGL RDAC unit that feeds si
gnal to the EFIS. There are no joins in the wire
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>>> On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:53 PM, Alec wrote:
>>>
>> =EF=BBWhere=99s the other junction?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>>> On Apr 3, 2021, at 7:00 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>>>>
>>> =EF=BB
>>> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading o
f 200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>>> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>>> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>>> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark
plug
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alec Myers <alec(at)alecmyers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Splicing shielded pair |
Or this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Shielded_Wire_Splicing/S_Wire_Splice.ht
ml
On Apr 4, 2021, at 07:03, Alec wrote:
=EF=BBYou strip back the shields, slide a length of shield braid over cab
le, and a length of heat shrink. Splice and insulate the conductors individu
ally on a staggered basis, then slide the loose shield braid over the join a
nd solder around both ends. Finally insulate over the top with sleeving.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 4, 2021, at 12:22 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Michael,
>
> I soldered ground wires to the shields. You could probably adapt that tech
nique. See the three photos at the bottom of my blog post Wiring Harness Ins
talled.
>
> Cheers,
> -- Art Z.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 3, 2021 at 9:24 AM Michael Burbidge wrote
:
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> Is there a video or instructions somewhere that describe how to splice sh
ielded pair wire?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Michael-
>>
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two sto
nes together properly, sparks of fire emerge.
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
| From: | "dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com> |
Mike,
Maybe this link will offer a few ideas to help trouble shoot.
https://blog.wika.us/products/temperature-products/six-common-causes-thermocouple-temperature-measurement-errors/
The ice bath error is outside of what should be expected. Do you have a separate
measurement method? Fluke makes a model 52 for temperature measurement. Ive
not looked into any of the low cost options from EBay but it might be something
to consider as a second method to verify.
Obviously you dont need the device to report accurate freezing temp but it might
be indicative of a larger problem.
I would suspect a wiring mistake or an error in the MGL.
Dan Theis
--------
Scratch building Sonex #1362
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501253#501253
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 4/3/2021 5:58 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>
> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading
> of 200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close
> enough?
>
> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>
> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>
> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the
> spark plug
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
Is the MGL monitor software-configurable for type J & type K probes? If
so, does config match type?
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Well, then you know your thermcouple is off by 10 degrees at the low end.
On 4/3/2021 10:46 PM, mike Pienaar wrote:
>
> Normal water
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:48 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>> unless you put a lot of salt in the water for the freezing part, that reading
should be very close to 32 degrees. The boiling temp is fine, takes some effort
to get the water above 200.
>>
>>> On 4/3/2021 3:58 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>>> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of 200
deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>>> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>>> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>>> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark plug
>>> Thanks
>>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike Pienaar <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
Yes I have configured for =9CK=9D type thermocouple
Forgot to say that MGL says results are within spec but did not say what the
acceptable range is
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 4, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Charlie England wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> On 4/3/2021 5:58 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of
200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark p
lug
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
> Is the MGL monitor software-configurable for type J & type K probes? If so
, does config match type?
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
Just for grins, try setting it up for type J & see what happens. MGL may
well use type K for CHT, but generic CHT probes are usually type J.
On Sun, Apr 4, 2021 at 10:37 AM mike Pienaar
wrote:
> Yes I have configured for =9CK=9D type thermocouple
> Forgot to say that MGL says results are within spec but did not say what
> the acceptable range is
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 4, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Charlie England wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> On 4/3/2021 5:58 PM, mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com wrote:
>
> I put my CHT sensors into boiling water at sea level and got a reading of
> 200 deg F and got 22 deg F with them in ice water. Is this close enough?
>
> I am using a MGL EFIS unit
>
> All 4 sensors provide the same reading plus or minus 1 or 2 degrees
>
> Sensors are K type attached to a copper washer that fits under the spark
> plug
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Mike
>
> Is the MGL monitor software-configurable for type J & type K probes? If
> so, does config match type?
>
>
> Virus-free
.
> www.avast.com
>
> <#m_-1463607553985861206_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: An idea that is kind of out there but here goes |
| From: | "Higs" <tomasgaysanov(at)gmail.com> |
If you are looking for games, then there is a cool site with game content. The
guys are making good content. Follow the click (https://gammicks.com) There is
a lot of interesting stuff here. There are also different TOPs of games, new
releases, interesting selections. All this in a beautiful interface with a user-friendly
control panel and link system. Use)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501296#501296
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LR3 field on ECB |
| From: | "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com> |
Question...
Is it OK to have the field breaker be an ECB when using a B&C LR3 or SB1 regulator?
I myself am not a fan of the magic boxes but I'm in communication with a fellow
who will be using an Advanced Quick Panel which comes with the Advanced Control
Module ECB box and we're wondering if it would be better to use the Klixons.
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YOtPiA3AdUsQEYR4nodBESNAo21rxdnx4pFs7VxXfuI/edit?usp=sharing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501298#501298
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LR3 field on ECB |
Mine was. Then again, there was a specific connector for the primary and standby
alternator field wire.
225 hours, no problems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501302#501302
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Splicing shielded pair |
| From: | "gracieanderson" <gracieanderson354(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for sharing such a nice piece of information to us. This is very knowledgeable
for me. I am an assignment expert and I am offering Assignment Help (https://myassignmenthelp.com/ca/)
to students all over the world. My assignment
help is very popular and trustworthy among students. They are the best assignment
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writing help for all assignment writing service. secure your academic grades
today. Easy to use.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501303#501303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: DC Wiring Diagrams for SPA Panther LS |
| From: | "jameshansen55" <jamesancock(at)gmail.com> |
There can be a number of reasons behind the slow speed of your internet. But to make sure of the actual reason, you have to perform a speed test. For this purpose, you can use this site that weve created by keeping in view what a user needs https://www.speedput.com/. Theres nothing like a long and tough process to start the speed test. The results will be displayed on your screen in just a few seconds. After having the results you can easily determine the actual reason thats causing your internet to slow down.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501313#501313
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple Accuracy |
| From: | "dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com> |
I like Charlies suggestion of checking other calibration configurations on the
MGL.
To respond to Mikes first question, is 10 degrees close enough?
It probably depends on your expectations and willingness to accommodate a known
error in your Temperatures. Knowing the source of the error and insuring it
remains constant is probably as important.
Personally, I would not accept it as good enough.
A second method of measurement is often useful. I purchased a very low cost unit
to compare to my trusted Fluke.
The attached photo shows a 1 degree difference in one photo but it is due to elevating
the TC bulb at different heights from the floor.
I swapped the 4 TC probes I had between the two meters in various combinations
and could not see any difference in response or value reported between the Fluke
and the low cost alternative. Two of the probes came with the meter and two
were from Omegs.
My conclusion on first sampling of the low cost TC meter is that it is quite adequate.
No telling how well it will perform a year from now, for sure. Only
time will tell.
Dan Theis
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7T6TZ?psc=1&smid=A1L1WUWYKZGTBQ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
--------
Scratch building Sonex #1362
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501316#501316
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/6f96d740_75f6_421b_ab09_dd787a0c95ef_117.jpeg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/37d32604_3c43_4a30_b297_7108a03f07af_117.jpeg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings |
| From: | "stephens217" <erneststephens87(at)gmail.com> |
I have a MGL EFIS and had flighty EGT and CHT temp readings. EGT sensors appear to be grounded as of now and didn't cause an issue once I shorted unused data sources. google (https://www.google.com/)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501354#501354
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mikepienaar09(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings |
Thanks
My readings have now stabilised after I shorted the unused "ports" and put
grounded shields on the leads
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of stephens217
Sent: April 11, 2021 7:02 PM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: EFIS Erratic Temp Readings
-->
I have a MGL EFIS and had flighty EGT and CHT temp readings. EGT sensors
appear to be grounded as of now and didn't cause an issue once I shorted
unused data sources. google (https://www.google.com/)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501354#501354
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | Special tickets for Sun'n Fun |
Bob and all
Please excuse this slightly off-topic subject, but it still is aviation
related... :-)
Guys
I have special tickets for Sun'n Fun 2021, beginning tomorrow, and
unfortunately I am not able to attend.
These are e-tickets for the 9/27 Club, which include:
- dedicated parking lot place, with transportation to and from the 9/27
chalet
- daily admission to Sun'n Fun
- exclusive Air Show viewing area, with seating on the patio
- air-conditioning Chalet
- full breakfast and hot lunch each day (and dinner on the Wednesday)
- complimentary water, drinks and snacks
and many other features that you can check in this link
https://flysnf.org/aerospace-expo/927-club/
I have tickets for Tuesday (April,13), Wednesday (April,14) and Thursday
(April,15), which I can sell separately or together. They are now all sold
out.
They had cost me $185 (Tuesday and Thursday) and $225 (Wednesday), I'll be
happy with $95 and $115 o.b.o.
If you are interested please drop me an email, you pay by PayPal and I will
send right away the bar code e-ticket to your email.
Cheers
Carlos
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plumbing Instruments |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Group In process of wiring and plumbing instruments. Question: I have Male Nylon
1/8" NPT hose nipples going into metal female threads on Dynon D10A and Altimeter.
Should any thread compound or tape be applied before assembly? Thx.
Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501400#501400
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neal George <neal.george(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
Ron -
Run them in dry, no Teflon tape, no goop.
Just snug, no need to pull the threads
Neal George
George Aviation
850-218-2939
On Apr 15, 2021, at 9:16 PM, rparigoris wrote:
Hi Group In process of wiring and plumbing instruments. Question: I have Male Nylon
1/8" NPT hose nipples going into metal female threads on Dynon D10A and Altimeter.
Should any thread compound or tape be applied before assembly? Thx.
Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501400#501400
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
The better the seal, the easier it is to calibrate and test the system. A
bit of teflon tape will make for a much better seal.
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021, 19:20 rparigoris wrote:
> rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Group In process of wiring and plumbing instruments. Question: I have
> Male Nylon 1/8" NPT hose nipples going into metal female threads on Dynon
> D10A and Altimeter. Should any thread compound or tape be applied before
> assembly? Thx. Ron P.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501400#501400
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
| From: | "pilot_pat" <ocainp(at)gmail.com> |
Please advise where I may find the "copious notes including a pre-flight checklist
that will exercise all functionalities before launching into the blue."
I understand if they are not issued yet; I did try to find them.
Thanks
Pat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501403#501403
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
| From: | "racerjerry" <gnking2(at)verizon.net> |
I ran into a problem with Nylon fittings about 25 years ago during my very first
solo flight of my then recently completed ultralight aircraft. Most Nylon fittings
are injection molded (not machined), leaving a tiny seam at the mold parting
line. During climbout, airspeed read significantly LOW (right at published
stall speed) and scared the CRAP out of me. A few other problems, like
motorcycle type windscreen collapsing into my lap didn't help either.
Nylon fittings work well if you recognize that they MAY leak. Pitot and Static
systems must be leak tested before first flight. EASY! Insert an altimeter
into each system; pump it up to 10,000 feet and witch for a slow decay. If it
has not lost more that 1,000 feet after one minute, you are good to go.
Yes, Teflon tape on pipe threads will help attain a seal; just make sure that whenever
the fitting is removed that you take extra care to remove all traces of
tape remnants from the inside of the female threads. And don't over-tighten
fittings as the wedge action of pipe threads may easily split plastic instrument
cases.
Jerry King
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501405#501405
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Cee Stone <rv8iator(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
No tape! Teflon or otherwise. It will extrude out of the threads as tiny
slivers and enter the system with less than desirable consequences.
Use a joint compound that is plastc compatible.
Loctite thread sealer 5772 or Loctite thread sealant with PTFE 1527514
.chris stone
RV-8
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:20 PM rparigoris wrote:
> rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Group In process of wiring and plumbing instruments. Question: I have
> Male Nylon 1/8" NPT hose nipples going into metal female threads on Dynon
> D10A and Altimeter. Should any thread compound or tape be applied before
> assembly? Thx. Ron P.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501400#501400
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
Better yet, use plastic fittings.=C2- They'll deform to seal the mate co
mpletely.=C2- It's not like they have to deal with any heat or pressure,
or carry any load.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
The restriction against Teflon tape applies to oil and fuel hoses. It has
no bearing on pitot or static connections. There are tens of thousands of
amateur built and certified aircraft flying around with Teflon tape on the
NPT ends of the fittings without consequence. Note that the tape is
only useful on the NPT ends, there is no benefit to adding it to the
compression end of the fittings.
On Fri, Apr 16, 2021 at 6:40 AM Christopher Cee Stone
wrote:
> No tape! Teflon or otherwise. It will extrude out of the threads as tiny
> slivers and enter the system with less than desirable consequences.
>
> Use a joint compound that is plastc compatible.
>
> Loctite thread sealer 5772 or Loctite thread sealant with PTFE 1527514
>
> .chris stone
> RV-8
>
> On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:20 PM rparigoris wrote:
>
>> rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
>>
>> Hi Group In process of wiring and plumbing instruments. Question: I have
>> Male Nylon 1/8" NPT hose nipples going into metal female threads on Dynon
>> D10A and Altimeter. Should any thread compound or tape be applied before
>> assembly? Thx. Ron P.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501400#501400
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
I believe the original poster said they were using Nylon fittings. While
these fittings will seal better than metal ones without tape, they will
still seal better with tape.
On Fri, Apr 16, 2021 at 7:05 AM Ernest Christley wrote:
> Better yet, use plastic fittings. They'll deform to seal the mate
> completely. It's not like they have to deal with any heat or pressure, or
> carry any load.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
At 11:26 AM 4/16/2021, you wrote:
>The restriction against Teflon tape applies to
>oil and fuel hoses. It has no bearing on pitot
>or static connections. There are tens of
>thousands of amateur built and certified
>aircraft flying around with Teflon tape on the
>NPT ends of the fittings without consequence.
>Note that the tape is only=C2 useful on the NPT
>ends, there is no benefit to adding it to the compression end of the
fittings.
Cessna Service Manuals circa 1976 called out
the use of teflon tape on the male fittings
of the pitot-static plumbing. Modern
nylon fittings are better fits and advertised
to seal without the use of tape. In any
case, a leak check is the controlling condition
for system integrity.
Applying tape such that the first two threads
are left exposed goes to keeping shredded
teflon from dropping into a system upon
disassembly. But Nyloseal fittings with
no tape seems to be the contemporary process
of choice.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The cleanest approach is the following kit:
https://www.steinair.com/product/pitot-static-tubing-port-kit/
Yes, a little pricey, but you can connect or disconnect the tubing in
seconds, and as long as your cuts are clean and straight, no leaks.
Quality pipe threads rarely need tape or paste to seal. Cheap pipe
fittings are all over the map for fit.
On 4/16/2021 10:29 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> At 11:26 AM 4/16/2021, you wrote:
>> The restriction against Teflon tape applies to oil and fuel hoses. It
>> has no bearing on pitot or static connections. There are tens of
>> thousands of amateur built and certified aircraft flying around with
>> Teflon tape on the NPT ends of the fittings without consequence. Note
>> that the tape is only useful on the NPT ends, there is no benefit to
>> adding it to the compression end of the fittings.
>
> Cessna Service Manuals circa 1976 called out
> the use of teflon tape on the male fittings
> of the pitot-static plumbing. Modern
> nylon fittings are better fits and advertised
> to seal without the use of tape. In any
> case, a leak check is the controlling condition
> for system integrity.
>
> Applying tape such that the first two threads
> are left exposed goes to keeping shredded
> teflon from dropping into a system upon
> disassembly. But Nyloseal fittings with
> no tape seems to be the contemporary process
> of choice.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
+1 for the Steinair fittings. I particularly like the banjo fittings. Lets you
get a real close fit and being able to rotate the fitting is added bonus.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501423#501423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ken(at)kbeene.com> |
I am installing a kx125 to KN72 and KN75 and Dynon HS34 to Dynon D100. Both
the KX125 and the KN72 will output CDI +/- and TO/From. The HS34 supports
both CDI +/- and LOC +/-. Neither the KX125 or the KN72 has an output
called LOC +/-. I think the CDI +/- maybe the LOC +/- when ILS Energize is
activated. Should I use the output from the KX125 or the KN72 for the HS34.
Should I connect the CDI + to the LOC + and the CDI- to the LOC- also. The
KN72 is mostly to support the OBS resolvers I think.
Thanks
Ken
RV4, J3 Cub, Acrosport I, Cherokee. Restoring a Cessna 172.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rd2 <rd2(at)dejazzd.com> |
Hi Group,
I have the following parts available after a recent avionics upgrade. If anyone
is interested, contact me off-list for details, photos etc.:
-vacuum system
-standby vacuum
-S-Tec DG with heading bug for AP guidance
-Cessna AI
-Encoding Altimeter
-KT76A transponder
-Smartcoupler II (for GPS to legacy AP)
Rumen rd2 at dejazzd dot com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: KN72 connection |
At 07:33 PM 4/18/2021, you wrote:
>I am installing a kx125 to KN72 and KN75 and Dynon HS34 to Dynon
>D100. Both the KX125 and the KN72 will output CDI +/- and
>TO/From. The HS34 supports both CDI +/- and LOC +/-. Neither the
>KX125 or the KN72 has an output called LOC +/-. I think the CDI +/-
>maybe the LOC +/- when ILS Energize is activated. Should I use the
>output from the KX125 or the KN72 for the HS34. Should I connect
>the CDI + to the LOC + and the CDI- to the LOC- also. The KN72 is
>mostly to support the OBS resolvers I think.
>
>
That's a bit out of my wheelhouse . . . check with
Stein at Steinair:
"SteinB"
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
At 05:53 AM 4/16/2021, you wrote:
>
>Please advise where I may find the "copious notes including a
>pre-flight checklist that will exercise all functionalities before
>launching into the blue."
>I understand if they are not issued yet; I did try to find them.
>Thanks
>Pat
Work in progress . . . slow . . .
What airplane are you building?
Consider Z101 which will replace all
previous configurations.
Join us on the List and we can craft
a checklist appropriate to the
configuration that fits your
needs.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
| From: | "pilot_pat" <ocainp(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, I'm building an RV9A using Z101B, Garmin G3X and G5 boxes, external power
contactor and thinking about a TCW 6 A-hr IBBS set up per the G3X install manual
figure 27-1.5.
You've crafted a lot into the design, and I wanted to make sure I understand how
it was meant to be used, particularly switching during equipment failures.
I believe I'm already on the list...
Pat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501448#501448
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Burbidge <mburbidg(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
Can I get a link to the Z101B system diagram?
Thanks,
Michael-
On 4/20/21, 5:27 AM, "owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of
pilot_pat"
wrote:
Bob, I'm building an RV9A using Z101B, Garmin G3X and G5 boxes, external power
contactor and thinking about a TCW 6 A-hr IBBS set up per the G3X install
manual figure 27-1.5.
You've crafted a lot into the design, and I wanted to make sure I understand
how it was meant to be used, particularly switching during equipment failures.
I believe I'm already on the list...
Pat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501448#501448
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
| From: | "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com> |
mburbidg(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Can I get a link to the Z101B system diagram?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
In folder Adobe Architecture PDFs at http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YOtPiA3AdUsQEYR4nodBESNAo21rxdnx4pFs7VxXfuI/edit?usp=sharing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501452#501452
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/Adobe_Architecture_Pdfs/Z101B.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/ACAD_Architecture_Dwgs/Z101B.dwg
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/ACAD_Architecture_Dwgs/Z101B.dwg>
http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/ACAD_Architecture_Dwgs/Z101B(R14).dwg
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/PPS/ACAD_Architecture_Dwgs/Z101B(R14).dwg>
On 20.04.2021 16:37, Michael Burbidge wrote:
>
> Can I get a link to the Z101B system diagram?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael-
>
> On 4/20/21, 5:27 AM, "owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf
of pilot_pat"
wrote:
>
>
> Bob, I'm building an RV9A using Z101B, Garmin G3X and G5 boxes, external
power contactor and thinking about a TCW 6 A-hr IBBS set up per the G3X install
manual figure 27-1.5.
> You've crafted a lot into the design, and I wanted to make sure I understand
how it was meant to be used, particularly switching during equipment failures.
>
> I believe I'm already on the list...
>
> Pat
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501448#501448
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
At 07:20 AM 4/20/2021, you wrote:
>
>Bob, I'm building an RV9A using Z101B, Garmin G3X and G5 boxes,
>external power contactor and thinking about a TCW 6 A-hr IBBS set up
>per the G3X install manual figure 27-1.5.
>You've crafted a lot into the design, and I wanted to make sure I
>understand how it was meant to be used, particularly switching
>during equipment failures.
>
>I believe I'm already on the list...
Okay. With Z101, ANY time the BAT/ALT switch is ON,
ALL BUSSES are powered irrespective of any other
switch condition.
Which busses are you planning to incorporate?
TCW IBBS? standby battery? Not planning on
a second alternator? No PM protocol for
battery reliability?
What's the engine configuration with respect
to fuel/ignition?
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
| From: | "pilot_pat" <ocainp(at)gmail.com> |
Planning on Battery, Main, Engine and Aux Buses, connected as shown in Z101B.
There will be a second alternator using a B&C regulator rather than the Ford; no
second battery aside from IBBS.
TCW 6 Ah IBBS would be charged from main bus and power via "aircraft power 2" inputs
the PFD, the engine monitor GEA24, the ADHRS GSU25 and the GPS20A.
Main battery (16 Ah): plan on load testing at annual and operational testing on
first daily engine start.
Engine fuel injection will be Airflow Performance FM-150 and ignition will be dual
pmag 114s fed from the engine bus for starting. Fuel pump is an Airflow Performance
Auxiliary pump assembly.
Pat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501460#501460
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Next Generation Z-Figures |
At 06:42 AM 4/21/2021, you wrote:
>
>Planning on Battery, Main, Engine and Aux Buses, connected as shown in Z101B.
Okay, make a list of the breakers/fuses on a bus/by/bus
basis.
Battery:
Main:
Aux:
Engine:
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KN72 connection |
| From: | "geetjaan" <geetsharmajaan(at)gmail.com> |
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Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501528#501528
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Group. I have a mix of instruments that use various Barb fittings. Some 1 barb,
some 2 and some more. Anything Winter or from Germany have gorgeous 2 rounded
bump barbs. They don't leak at all. Some of the others with some poking I
can get to leak. In the soaring community, if using old tubing or if you suspect
leaking, they use a Green Latex farm animal castrating donut. I have some and
they work great. Size is 5.5mm ID (.217") x 13.5mm OD (.532"). The Tygon tubing
I'm using is 9/32"OD (.281") x 5/32"ID (.156") and depending on barb OD will
grow in size. I can only use the Latex rings on about 1/4 of my connections
because the rings are so thick (.158"). I would like to use dash 105 O-Rings.
I tried a gazillion small clamps, nothing tickles my fancy. ID not right size,
too much tension and point loading on wire clamps is 1 on bottom and 2 on top.
I tried a double wrap of .25" safety wire, kinda OK but very fiddly to get
it just right. You want a complete circle and it needs to go between the point
of the barbs so has to be very thin.
Anyway McMaster has A70 durometer dash 105 O-Rings in Buna-N, Viton, Silicone,
EPDM and Poly Urethane. They also have harder A90 in Poly Urethane.
Any input on which compound of O-Rings might keep tension better over time when
used as a rubber band?
Any other ideas welcomed.
Anyone know of a small circular spring like those used in lips of seals with an
approx ID of less than .281"?
Thx. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501535#501535
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ashleysc(at)broadstripe.net |
| Subject: | Re: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
Hi Ron;
Viton will probably hold up the best.
Oetiker makes corrosion resistant clamps that hold tight, are light weight, require
a special tool to install, and are one-time use.
There is a safety wiring tool that encircles the tubing with 4 wraps of safety
wire and folds it over to clench. This is lighter than Oetiker and also one-time
use. If you are interested in pursuing this, I can get the name off my tool
in the hangar.
Cheers! Stu.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 11:05:59 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings
Hi Group. I have a mix of instruments that use various Barb fittings. Some 1 barb,
some 2 and some more. Anything Winter or from Germany have gorgeous 2 rounded
bump barbs. They don't leak at all. Some of the others with some poking I
can get to leak. In the soaring community, if using old tubing or if you suspect
leaking, they use a Green Latex farm animal castrating donut. I have some and
they work great. Size is 5.5mm ID (.217") x 13.5mm OD (.532"). The Tygon tubing
I'm using is 9/32"OD (.281") x 5/32"ID (.156") and depending on barb OD will
grow in size. I can only use the Latex rings on about 1/4 of my connections
because the rings are so thick (.158"). I would like to use dash 105 O-Rings.
I tried a gazillion small clamps, nothing tickles my fancy. ID not right size,
too much tension and point loading on wire clamps is 1 on bottom and 2 on top.
I tried a double wrap of .25" safety wire, kinda OK but very fiddly to get
it just right. You want a complete circle and it ne!
eds to go between the point of the barbs so has to be very thin.
Anyway McMaster has A70 durometer dash 105 O-Rings in Buna-N, Viton, Silicone,
EPDM and Poly Urethane. They also have harder A90 in Poly Urethane.
Any input on which compound of O-Rings might keep tension better over time when
used as a rubber band?
Any other ideas welcomed.
Anyone know of a small circular spring like those used in lips of seals with an
approx ID of less than .281"?
Thx. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501535#501535
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 1:32 PM rparigoris wrote:
> rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Group. I have a mix of instruments that use various Barb fittings. Some
> 1 barb, some 2 and some more. Anything Winter or from Germany have gorgeous
> 2 rounded bump barbs. They don't leak at all. Some of the others with some
> poking I can get to leak. In the soaring community, if using old tubing or
> if you suspect leaking, they use a Green Latex farm animal castrating
> donut. I have some and they work great. Size is 5.5mm ID (.217") x 13.5mm
> OD (.532"). The Tygon tubing I'm using is 9/32"OD (.281") x 5/32"ID (.156")
> and depending on barb OD will grow in size. I can only use the Latex rings
> on about 1/4 of my connections because the rings are so thick (.158"). I
> would like to use dash 105 O-Rings. I tried a gazillion small clamps,
> nothing tickles my fancy. ID not right size, too much tension and point
> loading on wire clamps is 1 on bottom and 2 on top. I tried a double wrap
> of .25" safety wire, kinda OK but very fiddly to get it just right. You
> want a complete circle and it ne!
> eds to go between the point of the barbs so has to be very thin.
> Anyway McMaster has A70 durometer dash 105 O-Rings in Buna-N, Viton,
> Silicone, EPDM and Poly Urethane. They also have harder A90 in Poly
> Urethane.
> Any input on which compound of O-Rings might keep tension better over time
> when used as a rubber band?
> Any other ideas welcomed.
> Anyone know of a small circular spring like those used in lips of seals
> with an approx ID of less than .281"?
> Thx. Ron P.
>
Something like this?
7mm constant tension hose clamp
You'd need to verify it this particular one applies clamping pressure to a
7mm hose, or it's closed size is 7mm. For more options, just google what I
wrote as the link text & substitute the size you want. The flat wrapped
springs are quite common in Japanese cars, so you should be able to find
something that will work.
My personal preference when using hard polyethylene tubing is to use push
to connect
fittings.
They have a 'rubber' gasket that seals to the *outside* of the tubing, and
a metal barb that catches the tubing beyond the sealing point. Easy
insertion/removal, unlike barb fittings. Note that you can also find them
on ebay, Amazon, etc, usually for a lot less money. If the Tygon you're
using is some other, softer material, they probably won't work for you.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501542#501542
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Stearns <steve(at)tomasara.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
> rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Group. I have a mix of instruments that use various Barb fittings. Some
> 1 barb, some 2 and some more. Anything Winter or from Germany have
gorgeous
> 2 rounded bump barbs. They don't leak at all. Some of the others with some
> poking I can get to leak. In the soaring community, if using old tubing or
> if you suspect leaking, they use a Green Latex farm animal castrating
> donut. I have some and they work great. Size is 5.5mm ID (.217") x 13.5mm
> OD (.532"). The Tygon tubing I'm using is 9/32"OD (.281") x 5/32"ID
(.156")
> and depending on barb OD will grow in size. I can only use the Latex rings
> on about 1/4 of my connections because the rings are so thick (.158"). I
> would like to use dash 105 O-Rings. I tried a gazillion small clamps,
> nothing tickles my fancy. ID not right size, too much tension and point
> loading on wire clamps is 1 on bottom and 2 on top. I tried a double wrap
> of .25" safety wire, kinda OK but very fiddly to get it just right. You
> want a complete circle and it ne!
> eds to go between the point of the barbs so has to be very thin.
> Anyway McMaster has A70 durometer dash 105 O-Rings in Buna-N, Viton,
> Silicone, EPDM and Poly Urethane. They also have harder A90 in Poly
> Urethane.
> Any input on which compound of O-Rings might keep tension better over time
> when used as a rubber band?
> Any other ideas welcomed.
> Anyone know of a small circular spring like those used in lips of seals
> with an approx ID of less than .281"?
> Thx. Ron P.
>
I make a tourniquet using two wraps of lacing cord. Really easy and seems
to work fine.
Steve Stearns
O235 Longeze
Boulder / Longmont CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Stearns <steve(at)tomasara.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
P.S. I do the same thing for the fuel-line on barbs on my old BMW
motorcycle.
Works there too even with the scratched up aluminum barbs.
Steve.
On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 7:10 AM Steve Stearns wrote:
> > rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
> >
> > Hi Group. I have a mix of instruments that use various Barb fittings.
> Some
> > 1 barb, some 2 and some more. Anything Winter or from Germany have
> gorgeous
> > 2 rounded bump barbs. They don't leak at all. Some of the others with
> some
> > poking I can get to leak. In the soaring community, if using old tubing
> or
> > if you suspect leaking, they use a Green Latex farm animal castrating
> > donut. I have some and they work great. Size is 5.5mm ID (.217") x 13.5mm
> > OD (.532"). The Tygon tubing I'm using is 9/32"OD (.281") x 5/32"ID
> (.156")
> > and depending on barb OD will grow in size. I can only use the Latex
> rings
> > on about 1/4 of my connections because the rings are so thick (.158"). I
> > would like to use dash 105 O-Rings. I tried a gazillion small clamps,
> > nothing tickles my fancy. ID not right size, too much tension and point
> > loading on wire clamps is 1 on bottom and 2 on top. I tried a double wrap
> > of .25" safety wire, kinda OK but very fiddly to get it just right. You
> > want a complete circle and it ne!
> > eds to go between the point of the barbs so has to be very thin.
> > Anyway McMaster has A70 durometer dash 105 O-Rings in Buna-N, Viton,
> > Silicone, EPDM and Poly Urethane. They also have harder A90 in Poly
> > Urethane.
> > Any input on which compound of O-Rings might keep tension better over
> time
> > when used as a rubber band?
> > Any other ideas welcomed.
> > Anyone know of a small circular spring like those used in lips of seals
> > with an approx ID of less than .281"?
> > Thx. Ron P.
> >
>
> I make a tourniquet using two wraps of lacing cord. Really easy and seems
> to work fine.
>
> Steve Stearns
> O235 Longeze
> Boulder / Longmont CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
At 08:12 AM 4/28/2021, you wrote:
>I make a tourniquet using two wraps of lacing
>cord.=C2 Really easy and seems to work fine.
>
>Steve Stearns
>O235 Longeze
>Boulder / Longmont CO
Here's a string tie technique that produces a
very secure installation:
https://tinyurl.com/ydms6p4a
Used this yesterday to refurbish the CO2 discharge
line on my DIY 'sodastream'. The old one I cut off
had been on there 5+ years and was still tight.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring dual fuel pumps to single switch |
| From: | "FrankJScott" <frankjscott38(at)gmail.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aspen Avionics panel: Too good to be true? |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alarm souder with multiple sources |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Group
Thanks for replies. I ended up using on suspect barbs either double .025" safety
wire or a constrictor single or double knot using lacing cord, then a drop of
thin CA. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501609#501609
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to seal Tygon tube to barb fittings |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Group
BTW working with A65 Tygon tubing, the 5/32" ID and 9/32" OD is a tad too large
for a few of my barb fittings but I mentioned how I solved that issue (either
double wrap of .025" safety wire or single or double over constrictor knot using
lacing cord and a drop of thin CA). It's also a tad too small for others.
I brought over a ceramic coffee mug with a 300 watt immersion heater and heated
water to 170F. 10 seconds of Tygon dipped in makes it nice a pliable with near
zero chance of hurting the tubing. You can kinda sorta use a heat gun, but
you need to be really careful. Overheat just a little too much and you damage
tube permanently. Ron P
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501610#501610
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | write my assignment |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Group After a nice job of plumbing I tried a leak test pulling altimeter to
1,000 from Zero. Leaks about 108 feet per minute. Shoot. Every one of my nothing
installed Nylon fittings were leaking. A day job to pull them out (all barb
fittings, tubing would need replacing). I tried some thin no stink silicone #3140
while pulling a 1,500 foot vacuum. Worked great. After 5 minutes I dropped
pressure to 1,000 for half an hour, then let it go static and cure overnight.
The fittings are from McMaster Carr and don't have a seam I can see from molding.
I tightened them smartly. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501704#501704
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Group After fixing vacuum leak on static system, I set altimeter to zero and
pulled a 1,000 foot vacuum. My Winter W-6423 in 3 1/8" airspeed indicator is
showing 151 knots. I kinda thought it should be indicating 135 knots? Is this
acceptable? If not what should I do? Thx. Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501705#501705
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
1000' is about 148 kts.
On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 7:53 PM rparigoris wrote:
> rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Group After fixing vacuum leak on static system, I set altimeter to
> zero and pulled a 1,000 foot vacuum. My Winter W-6423 in 3 1/8" airspeed
> indicator is showing 151 knots. I kinda thought it should be indicating 135
> knots? Is this acceptable? If not what should I do? Thx. Ron P.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501705#501705
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing Instruments |
At 09:47 PM 5/4/2021, you wrote:
>
>Hi Group After a nice job of plumbing I tried a leak test pulling
>altimeter to 1,000 from Zero. Leaks about 108 feet per minute.
>Shoot. Every one of my nothing installed Nylon fittings were
>leaking. A day job to pull them out (all barb fittings, tubing would
>need replacing). I tried some thin no stink silicone #3140 while
>pulling a 1,500 foot vacuum. Worked great. After 5 minutes I dropped
>pressure to 1,000 for half an hour, then let it go static and cure
>overnight. The fittings are from McMaster Carr and don't have a seam
>I can see from molding. I tightened them smartly. Ron P.
Good data!
Did a search of literature and manufactured offerings
on our favorite plumbing technologies . . . only
spent a couple hours on it but a simple and time-
honored understanding of the NTP threaded parts
was confirmed.
Making a leak proof joining of parts in fluids
is not unlike joining conductors of current.
The term "gas tight' is equally applicable
in both instances.
Studies of threaded fluid fastenings
reveals a potential for two, spiral leak paths
where thread tips and roots in the mated joint
do not come into solid physical contact.
99.99+ percent of such joints use
some form of malleable sealant material
that exploits the wedging action of a
tapered thread to compress and extrude
a sealant into small spiral voids that
exists between the 'imperfectly' mated
threads.
Unlike nuts and bolts with thread engagement
requirements that speak to strength (screw
should break before threads strip), tapered
threads on fluid fittings strive for
an interference or interruption, fluid-tight
fit of mated, wedge shaped parts.
Leak-free pitot static systems assembled
with 'dry fitted' parts depend on physical
deformation of the mated parts to achieve
zero clearance fits of the spiral leak
paths.
Here is one of several articles I found
that discussed technology of tapered threads.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Pipe_Threads.pdf
I did find some claims for plastic parts
that would achieve gas tightness without
additional sealants. The quality of such
joints assumes a knowledge of thread forms
for BOTH the parts along with confidence
in the long term dimensional stability
of the parts (did anyone say 'plastic').
I found only anecdotal claims of sealant-free
joining where one or both parts were plastic
of some variety. One writer said the seal
was not permanent; leaking developed with
time in service.
No doubt there are some plastic parts with
characteristics that will dry seal on assembly.
But unless specifically called out by the
manufacturer and proven in qualification testing,
the integrity of such joints is problematic.
If I were assembling my own panel today, I'm
pretty sure I would find confident comfort
in application of the technique suggested in
the 1978 Cessna service manual that calls out
Teflon tape covering all but the first two
threads of a male fitting.
Sometimes the best way to drive a nail is
with a hammer . . .
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Curley <mcurley68(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
I recently read a recommendation for using thread lacing tape instead of ty
-wraps to organize wire looms. Also noted that firewall forward should be u
sing "high temp" lacing. What is this high temp lacing and where can I get
an appropriate quantity for one aircraft?
Mark Curley
Lake Havasu City, AZ
building Van's RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SteinB <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Hi Mark,
I=99m afraid we don=99t have any high temp lacing cord. Typica
lly for Firewall
Forward we usually use either adel type clamps to secure things, or we use
high temp cable ties (tefzel).
Cheers,
Stein
*From:* owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <
owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com> *On Behalf Of *Mark Curley
*Sent:* Friday, May 7, 2021 9:10 AM
*To:* aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* AeroElectric-List: Re: Thread Lacing Tape
I recently read a recommendation for using thread lacing tape instead of
ty-wraps to organize wire looms. Also noted that firewall forward should be
using "high temp" lacing. What is this high temp lacing and where can I get
an appropriate quantity for one aircraft?
Mark Curley
Lake Havasu City, AZ
building Van's RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew S. Whiting" <m.whiting(at)frontier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
It=99s not cheap and I have yet to find a place to buy small quantitie
s.
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/tech-lace-series-nomex/35160
Sent from my iPad
> On May 7, 2021, at 11:42 AM, SteinB wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Hi Mark,
>
> I=99m afraid we don=99t have any high temp lacing cord. Typic
ally for Firewall Forward we usually use either adel type clamps to secure t
hings, or we use high temp cable ties (tefzel).
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
>
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-lis
t-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Mark Curley
> Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 9:10 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thread Lacing Tape
>
>
>
> I recently read a recommendation for using thread lacing tape instead of t
y-wraps to organize wire looms. Also noted that firewall forward should be u
sing "high temp" lacing. What is this high temp lacing and where can I get a
n appropriate quantity for one aircraft?
>
> Mark Curley
> Lake Havasu City, AZ
> building Van's RV-6
==========================
==========================
==========================
-=========================
==========================
-=========================
==========================
==========================
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
In my view, thread lacing is a lot of work, and limits modifications (you can
sometimes squeeze another wire into a loom, but it is as hard as ty wraps).
I like these instead of ty wraps.https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-8-in-x-1-2-in-Reusable-Ties-50-Pack-90924HD/202261940
To see if they are up to the job, use one to tie a wire to a 1/2" tube, then see
if you can do a chin-up on the wire. On Friday, May 7, 2021, 10:11:27 AM
EDT, Mark Curley wrote:
#yiv0324448453 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}
I recently read a recommendation for using thread lacing tape instead of ty-wraps
to organize wire looms. Also noted that firewall forward should be using "high
temp" lacing. What is this high temp lacing and where can I get an appropriate
quantity for one aircraft?
Mark CurleyLake Havasu City, AZbuilding Van's RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Wynn <mlwynn(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Hey Mark,
I will confess to maybe doing this wrong, but I used the standard lacing ta
pe from ACS all over my RV8.=C2- The stuff firewall forward has held up w
ell.=C2- I use adel clamps on warm parts but the wires for the EGT and CH
T and all the electrical are regular=C2- Dacron tape and I have had no is
sues.
Michael WynnLivermore, CARV8 FlyingRV 10 Starting the build
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew S. Whiting <m.whiting(at)frontier.com>
Sent: Fri, May 7, 2021 10:15 am
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thread Lacing Tape
It=99s not cheap and I have yet to find a place to buy small quantiti
es.
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/tech-lace-series-nomex/35160
Sent from my iPad
On May 7, 2021, at 11:42 AM, SteinB wrote:
=EF=BB
#yiv2469163392 #yiv2469163392 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2469163392 #y
iv2469163392 p.yiv2469163392MsoNormal, #yiv2469163392 li.yiv2469163392MsoNo
rmal, #yiv2469163392 div.yiv2469163392MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0p
t;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2469163392 span.yiv2469163392EmailStyle19 {fo
nt-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv2469163392 .yiv2469163392MsoChpD
efault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv2469163392 div.yiv2469163392Word
Section1 {}#yiv2469163392 Hi Mark,=C2-I=99m afraid we don=99t
have any high temp lacing cord.=C2- Typically for Firewall Forward we us
ually use either adel type clamps to secure things, or we use high temp cab
le ties (tefzel).=C2-Cheers,Stein=C2-=C2-From: owner-aeroelectric-lis
t-server(at)matronics.com On Be
half Of Mark Curley
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 9:10 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Thread Lacing Tape=C2-=C2-=C2-I recen
tly read a recommendation for using thread lacing tape instead of ty-wraps
to organize wire looms. Also noted that firewall forward should be using "h
igh temp" lacing. What is this high temp lacing and where can I get an appr
opriate quantity for one aircraft?=C2-Mark CurleyLake Havasu City, AZbuil
ding Van's RV-6====================
====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Lazarowicz <tllaz330(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
How much do you need. I have a roll and can send you some . It=99s
hard to
find but I got lucky and found a spool,
Call or text me
4195735043
On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 1:33 PM Ernest Christley wrote:
> In my view, thread lacing is a lot of work, and limits modifications (you
> can sometimes squeeze another wire into a loom, but it is as hard as ty
> wraps).
>
> I like these instead of ty wraps.
>
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-8-in-x-1-2-in-Reusable-Ties-50-P
ack-90924HD/202261940
>
> To see if they are up to the job, use one to tie a wire to a 1/2" tube,
> then see if you can do a chin-up on the wire.
> mcurley68(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I recently read a recommendation for using thread lacing tape instead of
> ty-wraps to organize wire looms. Also noted that firewall forward should
be
> using "high temp" lacing. What is this high temp lacing and where can I g
et
> an appropriate quantity for one aircraft?
>
> Mark Curley
> Lake Havasu City, AZ
> building Van's RV-6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neal George <neal.george(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
I use TechFlex lacing with good results.
They offer many styles and finishes. What I have is not waxed, but has
a finish treatment that is ever so slightly tacky. The package is long
gone, and there is no ID that I can find on the spool. I found their
tech support staff very helpful in selecting the tape.
Neal George
George Aviation
850-218-2939
===================
On May 7, 2021, at 12:15 PM, Matthew S. Whiting
wrote:
It=99s not cheap and I have yet to find a place to buy small
quantities.
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/tech-lace-series-nomex/35160
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
Folks,
It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group think
is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like Concord. This
is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work." I'm not into
bleeding edge experimentation.
The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
the hangar in the afternoon.
My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators with B
& C Aero voltage regulators.
The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
threatening if the battery failed in flight.
In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS would
be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery. At
worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage regulator
from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
Is my head on straight?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
EarthX batteries don=99t play well in the cold!
After a couple of winter seasons of having it cut-out during the
starting cycle (with a full overnight charge), the EarthX folks
recommended a battery heater. I have it wired in with my cylinder bands
and oil sump heaters (Reiff). Happiness returns..
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com
On Behalf Of Art Zemon
Sent: Saturday, May 8, 2021 8:54 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EarthX vs Concord Batteries
Folks,
It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like
Concord. This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work."
I'm not into bleeding edge experimentation.
The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
the hangar in the afternoon.
My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators
with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
threatening if the battery failed in flight.
In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery.
At worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage
regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
Is my head on straight?
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge.
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
IMHO, jumping from lead-acid technology to lithium may be worthwhile if
it fills a need. On the other hand, you can stay with lead-acid at a
much lower price, with better cranking.
Concorde sells FAA approved lead-acid batteries using absorbed glass mat
technology, also know as recombinant gas technology, which is why their
line starts with the letters RG. You are looking at somewhere near $300
for 12V models.
Odessey sells an improved AGM version, apparently using slightly
different lead alloys, perhaps a little different in interior layout.
The cost is under $200, depending on whether you want say the 925 model
that is very close to the RG-25AXC in capacity and wt, while smaller in
physical size. If you go for the 680 mode, it is a lot smaller and
lighter, adequate for most purposes for your engine, but lower capacity
for an IFR alternator failure situation, costs something under $150.
I only briefly looked at EarthX some time ago and was turned off by the
cost, and I didn't need the weight savings for my particular W&B
situation. I use the 925 for the reserve capacity, and operate in
Aridzona. Got 5 yrs on the last one and could have gone longer.
In certified planes I used the Concorde and typically got 3-3.5 yrs life.
All depends on your needs for cranking, reserve capacity and how much
money you want to spend.
On 5/8/2021 5:54 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Folks,
>
> It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
> think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like
> Concord. This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work."
> I'm not into bleeding edge experimentation.
>
> The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
> terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
> the hangar in the afternoon.
>
> My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators
> with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
>
> The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
> alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
> threatening if the battery failed in flight.
>
> In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
> would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery.
> At worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage
> regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
>
> Is my head on straight?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> /Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
> stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. /
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
I've been really happy with the Earthx, for weight savings, durability
compared to the oddysey, and low self-discharge between flights.
On May 8, 2021 09:57:35 Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> IMHO, jumping from lead-acid technology to lithium may be worthwhile if
> it fills a need. On the other hand, you can stay with lead-acid at a
> much lower price, with better cranking.
> Concorde sells FAA approved lead-acid batteries using absorbed glass mat
> technology, also know as recombinant gas technology, which is why their
> line starts with the letters RG. You are looking at somewhere near $300
> for 12V models.
> Odessey sells an improved AGM version, apparently using slightly
> different lead alloys, perhaps a little different in interior layout.
> The cost is under $200, depending on whether you want say the 925 model
> that is very close to the RG-25AXC in capacity and wt, while smaller in
> physical size. If you go for the 680 mode, it is a lot smaller and
> lighter, adequate for most purposes for your engine, but lower capacity
> for an IFR alternator failure situation, costs something under $150.
> I only briefly looked at EarthX some time ago and was turned off by the
> cost, and I didn't need the weight savings for my particular W&B
> situation. I use the 925 for the reserve capacity, and operate in
> Aridzona. Got 5 yrs on the last one and could have gone longer.
> In certified planes I used the Concorde and typically got 3-3.5 yrs life.
> All depends on your needs for cranking, reserve capacity and how much
> money you want to spend.
>
> On 5/8/2021 5:54 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
>> Folks,
>>
>> It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
>> think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like
>> Concord. This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work."
>> I'm not into bleeding edge experimentation.
>>
>> The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
>> terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
>> the hangar in the afternoon.
>>
>> My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators
>> with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
>>
>> The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
>> alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
>> threatening if the battery failed in flight.
>>
>> In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
>> would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery.
>> At worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage
>> regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
>>
>> Is my head on straight?
>>
>> -- Art Z.
>>
>> --
>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>> /Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
>> stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. /
>> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
At 12:42 PM 5/7/2021, you wrote:
>Hey Mark,
>
>I will confess to maybe doing this wrong, but I used the standard
>lacing tape from ACS all over my RV8. The stuff firewall forward
>has held up well. I use adel clamps on warm parts but the wires for
>the EGT and CHT and all the electrical are regular Dacron tape and
>I have had no issues.
. . . your experience echoes string tie practice at
the spam-can factories too. Don't recall ever
seeing anything more exotic than Type II
(Dacron) around the factory or experimental hangar.
The Dacron lace has been around since the 60's.
The Mil-T43435 spec got it's first UPDATE to
revision A and 1969!
Here's a chart that speaks to the various iterations
of M43435 lace:
https://tinyurl.com/ydottlf9
Size 3 was the most popular where I worked.
Size 2 would work for you well especially if
you can get a 'deal' on a partial or surplus
spool.
It has been used under the cowl on hundreds
of thousands of GA aircraft . . .who knows
how many transport/military machines. It's
rated for service at up to 177C (350F).
Nothing, short of directly radiated energy
from an exhaust stack, will get anywhere near
that warm.
Learn how to tie good knots:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html
An enhanced method 1 calls for converting
the clove-hitch into a single or double
pass constrictor knot . . . but the clove hitch
works well too.
Here is one source:
https://tinyurl.com/ydta87er
Yeah, I know it's breathtakingly expensive . . .
after all . . . it's just fancy kite string . . .
right?
Trust me, return on investment is huge.
It will take some real time experience in
the shop but by the time you go through the
first 500 yards of the 1500 yard spool, it
will have paid for itself several times over
in labor/materials costs of alternatives.
Keep an eye out on eBay. Full or partial spools
show up there from time to time. That's where
I think I got most of my inventory.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
>On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 1:33 PM Ernest Christley
><echristley(at)att.net> wrote:
>In my view, thread lacing is a lot of work, and limits modifications
>(you can sometimes squeeze another wire into a loom, but it is as
>hard as ty wraps).
I presume your referring to the running lace technique
popular Wwwaaaayyyy back when.
https://tinyurl.com/yh94ktzb
This is not recommended.
>I like these instead of ty wraps.
>https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-8-in-x-1-2-in-Reusable-Ties-50-Pack-90924HD/202261940
Strength is but ONE issue. What's the service life
of these devices in the aircraft environment? Are
you offering to the the 'beta tester' for this
technology?
I would use these things to hold stuff together
during fabrication and even for some early
flight testing. But then I'd replace with
string ties.
By the way, got my tongue tangled around my eyeteeth
and couldn't see what I was saying. The standard
put-up for M43435 lacing tape is 500 yards, not
1500.
Found this offering for polyester lacing tape
on Amazon:
https://tinyurl.com/4fp4n33f
Bet a dollar to a donut that this is the same stuff
put up on larger spools and 'certified'. I've
ordered a spool to get a hands-on look-see. Watch
this space. Quantity and price is attractive. The ad
doesn't speak to dimensions of the lace . . . I'll
check it out.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew S. Whiting" <m.whiting(at)frontier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Running lace is not recommended? Really??
Better tell NASA
https://www.sandman.com/files/NASAcable%20lacing40-43.pdf
Sent from my iPad
> On May 8, 2021, at 12:05 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroele
ctric.com> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
>>
>>> On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 1:33 PM Ernest Christley wro
te:
>>> In my view, thread lacing is a lot of work, and limits modifications (yo
u can sometimes squeeze another wire into a loom, but it is as hard as ty wr
aps).
>>
>> I presume your referring to the running lace technique
>> popular Wwwaaaayyyy back when.
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/yh94ktzb
>>
>> This is not recommended.
>>
>> I like these instead of ty wraps.
>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-8-in-x-1-2-in-Reusable-Ties-50-P
ack-90924HD/202261940
>
> Strength is but ONE issue. What's the service life
> of these devices in the aircraft environment? Are
> you offering to the the 'beta tester' for this
> technology?
>
> I would use these things to hold stuff together
> during fabrication and even for some early
> flight testing. But then I'd replace with
> string ties.
>
> By the way, got my tongue tangled around my eyeteeth
> and couldn't see what I was saying. The standard
> put-up for M43435 lacing tape is 500 yards, not
> 1500.
>
> Found this offering for polyester lacing tape
> on Amazon:
>
> https://tinyurl.com/4fp4n33f
>
> Bet a dollar to a donut that this is the same stuff
> put up on larger spools and 'certified'. I've
> ordered a spool to get a hands-on look-see. Watch
> this space. Quantity and price is attractive. The ad
> doesn't speak to dimensions of the lace . . . I'll
> check it out.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
At 11:34 AM 5/8/2021, you wrote:
>Running lace is not recommended? Really??
>
>Better tell NASA=85
Okay, what does it do for you that periodic
ties don't?
I think it's a cost/benefit ratio thing.
It looks cool but does it add to the
longevity, maintainabilty or performance
of the finished product?
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
They do add a failure mode or two, and add requirements for alternator size
, etc=2E And while loss of battery may not be a hazard in itself, human rea
ction to it could be hazardous in the wrong circumstances=2E Ex: getting a
=C2- minor shock while working from a ladder could cause a serious fall
=2E
FWIW, most typically sized Americans could save more weight than the E
-X, by spending *less* money (on food)=2E ;-)
Charlie
=81=A3Sent from
BlueMail =8B
On May 8, 2021, 7:59 AM, at 7:59 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
>Folks,
>
>It's time to replace my old battery and wonde
r what the current group
>think
>is on EarthX batteries vs=2E something mor
e "traditional" like Concord=2E
>This
>is a component of my airplane that I
want to "just work=2E" I'm not into
>bleeding edge experimentation=2E
>
>T
he primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri=2E We don't get
>t
erribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees
>in
>t
he hangar in the afternoon=2E
>
>My charging system is all B & C Aero: prim
ary and backup alternators
>with B
>& C Aero voltage regulators=2E
>
>The e
ngine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
>alternators a
nd an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
>threatening if
the battery failed in flight=2E
>
>In that environment, it looks like the E
arthX with its integrated BMS
>would
>be pretty much a drop-in replacement
for my old lead acid battery=2E At
>worst, I might need to turn up the volt
age on the backup voltage
>regulator
>from 13=2E5 V to 14=2E0 or so=2E The
primary is already set to 14=2E5=2E
>
>Is my head on straight?
>
> -- Ar
t Z=2E
>
>--
>https://CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ecom/
>*Friendship is like a sto
ne=2E A stone has no value, but when you rub two
>stones together properly,
sparks of fire emerge=2E *
>Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew S. Whiting" <m.whiting(at)frontier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
There is no functional difference, but there is an installation difference.
For runs of any length, a running lace is 2-3 times faster to install while
providing the same level of functionality. I can tie 3 running ties in the
time required to tie and cut one spot tie. That is the main difference I se
e.
I will turn your question around: why use spot ties when a running lace is t
hree times faster with equal functionality?
Sent from my iPad
> On May 8, 2021, at 3:51 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelec
tric.com> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB At 11:34 AM 5/8/2021, you wrote:
>> Running lace is not recommended? Really??
>>
>> Better tell NASA
>
> Okay, what does it do for you that periodic
> ties don't?
>
> I think it's a cost/benefit ratio thing.
> It looks cool but does it add to the
> longevity, maintainabilty or performance
> of the finished product?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
==========================
==========================
==========================
-=========================
==========================
-=========================
==========================
==========================
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
kolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
- I like these instead of ty wraps.
- https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-8-in-x-1-2-in-Reusable-Tie
s-50-Pack-90924HD/202261940
=C2-=C2-=C2- Strength is but ONE issue. What's the servicelife
=C2-=C2-=C2- of these devices in the aircraft environment? Are
=C2-=C2-=C2- you offering to the the 'beta tester' for this
=C2-=C2-=C2- technology?
=C2- =C2-=C2-
I've got some wires tied up in an airplane that have been there for years.
=C2- Going back in to make modifications, the hardest part was finding th
e end of the velcro so that I could get the "unwrap" started.=C2- Just as
strong as when I put them on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Lowes sells Deka AGM batteries that are made in the USA. Part number ETX18L is
$94 with free shipping to store.
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501782#501782
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
earthx is expensive and you don't need the weight savings. i wouldn't even
look at concorde, you can do just as well for way less money with an
odessey. i think the trick to longlife with an agm battery is to keep them
off a constant maintainer. they hold their charge for months so no need.
On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 8:28 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
> kellym(at)aviating.com>
>
> IMHO, jumping from lead-acid technology to lithium may be worthwhile if
> it fills a need. On the other hand, you can stay with lead-acid at a
> much lower price, with better cranking.
> Concorde sells FAA approved lead-acid batteries using absorbed glass mat
> technology, also know as recombinant gas technology, which is why their
> line starts with the letters RG. You are looking at somewhere near $300
> for 12V models.
> Odessey sells an improved AGM version, apparently using slightly
> different lead alloys, perhaps a little different in interior layout.
> The cost is under $200, depending on whether you want say the 925 model
> that is very close to the RG-25AXC in capacity and wt, while smaller in
> physical size. If you go for the 680 mode, it is a lot smaller and
> lighter, adequate for most purposes for your engine, but lower capacity
> for an IFR alternator failure situation, costs something under $150.
> I only briefly looked at EarthX some time ago and was turned off by the
> cost, and I didn't need the weight savings for my particular W&B
> situation. I use the 925 for the reserve capacity, and operate in
> Aridzona. Got 5 yrs on the last one and could have gone longer.
> In certified planes I used the Concorde and typically got 3-3.5 yrs life.
> All depends on your needs for cranking, reserve capacity and how much
> money you want to spend.
>
> On 5/8/2021 5:54 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
> > Folks,
> >
> > It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
> > think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like
> > Concord. This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work."
> > I'm not into bleeding edge experimentation.
> >
> > The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
> > terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
> > the hangar in the afternoon.
> >
> > My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators
> > with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
> >
> > The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
> > alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
> > threatening if the battery failed in flight.
> >
> > In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
> > would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery.
> > At worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage
> > regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
> >
> > Is my head on straight?
> >
> > -- Art Z.
> >
> > --
> > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> > /Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
> > stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. /
> > Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
Thanks for the advice, everybody. After reading what y'all wrote and doing
more research, I am leaning toward the Odyssey PC680. I think that will
provide plenty of amps for starting my IO-360.
I have had to keep my old battery on a trickle charger and am very much
looking forward to not needing to hook that up after every flight.
-- Art Z.
On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 8:09 AM Art Zemon wrote:
> Folks,
>
> It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
> think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like Concord.
> This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work." I'm not into
> bleeding edge experimentation.
>
> The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
> terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
> the hangar in the afternoon.
>
> My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators with
> B & C Aero voltage regulators.
>
> The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
> alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
> threatening if the battery failed in flight.
>
> In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
> would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery. At
> worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage regulator
> from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
I found that I could get around a year out of a PC680 before I had to
replace it. The Earthx has lasted much longer, and I think it is because
the battery is forward of the firewall. The high temp tolerance is better
on the Earthx. If your battery isn't in a warm environment, perhaps the
PC680 will be up to the task. I've never had any problems in the cold with
the Earthx as the other poster has.
On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 9:38 AM Art Zemon wrote:
> Thanks for the advice, everybody. After reading what y'all wrote and doing
> more research, I am leaning toward the Odyssey PC680. I think that will
> provide plenty of amps for starting my IO-360.
>
> I have had to keep my old battery on a trickle charger and am very much
> looking forward to not needing to hook that up after every flight.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 8:09 AM Art Zemon wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
>> think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like Concord.
>> This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work." I'm not into
>> bleeding edge experimentation.
>>
>> The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
>> terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
>> the hangar in the afternoon.
>>
>> My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators with
>> B & C Aero voltage regulators.
>>
>> The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
>> alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
>> threatening if the battery failed in flight.
>>
>> In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
>> would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery. At
>> worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage regulator
>> from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
>>
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> *Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
> stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Yes, batteries need to be shielded from heat. On the firewall should not
be a terribly hot area, but one could help by placing fire frax or
similar insulation around the battery box, or even creating a metal
shield spaced a bit outside the battery. You can buy at least 3 PC680s
for the price of one EarthX. Members of my EAA chapter using the 680 get
much better life than one year, here in Arizona.
My Odyssey is located in the rear of aircraft so heat is less an issue,
but still exposed to 120 ambient temps, plus sun heating of fuselage
when outside. 5 yrs and I replaced just to ensure reliability on long
cross-country trips.
Kelly
On 5/9/2021 7:20 AM, Jared Yates wrote:
> I found that I could get around a year out of a PC680 before I had to
> replace it. The Earthx has lasted much longer, and I think it is because
> the battery is forward of the firewall. The high temp tolerance is
> better on the Earthx. If your battery isn't in a warm environment,
> perhaps the PC680 will be up to the task. I've never had any problems in
> the cold with the Earthx as the other poster has.
>
> On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 9:38 AM Art Zemon > wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice, everybody. After reading what y'all wrote and
> doing more research, I am leaning toward the Odyssey PC680. I think
> that will provide plenty of amps for starting my IO-360.
>
> I have had to keep my old battery on a trickle charger and am very
> much looking forward to not needing to hook that up after every flight.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 8:09 AM Art Zemon > wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current
> group think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more
> "traditional" like Concord. This is a component of my airplane
> that I want to "just work." I'm not into bleeding edge
> experimentation.
>
> The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We
> don't get terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal;
> over 100 degrees in the hangar in the afternoon.
>
> My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup
> alternators with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
>
> The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with
> two alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient
> but not life threatening if the battery failed in flight.
>
> In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its
> integrated BMS would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my
> old lead acid battery. At worst, I might need to turn up the
> voltage on the backup voltage regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or
> so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
>
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> /Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub
> two stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. /
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bernie Willis <arcticarrow(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
Let me share some battery experiences after over 50 years flying. Old
fashion lead acid have been wonderful for many years but do require
servicing and care not to discharge fully very often. AGM are essentially
the same but put together is a better way so the plates won't contact when
discharging and getting hot so they last longer. Typically I'm seeing PC
680's lasting 4 to 5 years even when left over winter unused outside in
Alaska. I have original AGM batteries in my diesel truck at 14 years old
and still cranking. The earthX seems to be the best of the lithium based
batteries and as far as I know the FAA certified one is safe but in our
area where experimentation is very active a few of the other lithium
batteries have caught fire and destroyed their aircraft.
In our cubs we place the PC 680 on its side under the pilots seat. I'd
hate to have a battery fire there. In Cessna 180/182 and Bonanza we put
them on the engine side of the firewall. They crank these engines (470 cu
in.)well and save a lot of weight too.
Bernie
On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 10:20 PM Kelly McMullen wrote:
> kellym(at)aviating.com>
>
> IMHO, jumping from lead-acid technology to lithium may be worthwhile if
> it fills a need. On the other hand, you can stay with lead-acid at a
> much lower price, with better cranking.
> Concorde sells FAA approved lead-acid batteries using absorbed glass mat
> technology, also know as recombinant gas technology, which is why their
> line starts with the letters RG. You are looking at somewhere near $300
> for 12V models.
> Odessey sells an improved AGM version, apparently using slightly
> different lead alloys, perhaps a little different in interior layout.
> The cost is under $200, depending on whether you want say the 925 model
> that is very close to the RG-25AXC in capacity and wt, while smaller in
> physical size. If you go for the 680 mode, it is a lot smaller and
> lighter, adequate for most purposes for your engine, but lower capacity
> for an IFR alternator failure situation, costs something under $150.
> I only briefly looked at EarthX some time ago and was turned off by the
> cost, and I didn't need the weight savings for my particular W&B
> situation. I use the 925 for the reserve capacity, and operate in
> Aridzona. Got 5 yrs on the last one and could have gone longer.
> In certified planes I used the Concorde and typically got 3-3.5 yrs life.
> All depends on your needs for cranking, reserve capacity and how much
> money you want to spend.
>
> On 5/8/2021 5:54 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
> > Folks,
> >
> > It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
> > think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like
> > Concord. This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work."
> > I'm not into bleeding edge experimentation.
> >
> > The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
> > terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees in
> > the hangar in the afternoon.
> >
> > My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators
> > with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
> >
> > The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
> > alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
> > threatening if the battery failed in flight.
> >
> > In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
> > would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid battery.
> > At worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage
> > regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
> >
> > Is my head on straight?
> >
> > -- Art Z.
> >
> > --
> > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> > /Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
> > stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. /
> > Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
I went through two Odyssey batteries in my BD-4. The first one lasted just
over a year and was replaced on warranty. The next one was still going
strong after 3 years.
In our F1 Rocket we removed dual Odyssey 680s and replaced them with dual
EarthX 680s. Big weight savings and because they were in the tail, a bigger
increase is baggage capacity. One EarthX battery failed in under a year and
was replaced on warranty.
In our club Zenith, we just replaced our failing motorcycle lead acid
battery with an EarthX 680. The EarthX was chosen because our aircraft is a
bit of a new technology demonstrator for the members and some of them
wanted to try out the latest battery tech. Because our battery is in the
engine compartment and our aircraft is slightly tail heavy to begin with,
the lighter battery has reduced our baggage capacity by about 20 pounds.
On Sun, May 9, 2021, 10:19 Bernie Willis wrote:
> Let me share some battery experiences after over 50 years flying. Old
> fashion lead acid have been wonderful for many years but do require
> servicing and care not to discharge fully very often. AGM are essentially
> the same but put together is a better way so the plates won't contact when
> discharging and getting hot so they last longer. Typically I'm seeing PC
> 680's lasting 4 to 5 years even when left over winter unused outside in
> Alaska. I have original AGM batteries in my diesel truck at 14 years old
> and still cranking. The earthX seems to be the best of the lithium based
> batteries and as far as I know the FAA certified one is safe but in our
> area where experimentation is very active a few of the other lithium
> batteries have caught fire and destroyed their aircraft.
>
> In our cubs we place the PC 680 on its side under the pilots seat. I'd
> hate to have a battery fire there. In Cessna 180/182 and Bonanza we put
> them on the engine side of the firewall. They crank these engines (470 cu
> in.)well and save a lot of weight too.
>
> Bernie
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 10:20 PM Kelly McMullen
> wrote:
>
>> kellym(at)aviating.com>
>>
>> IMHO, jumping from lead-acid technology to lithium may be worthwhile if
>> it fills a need. On the other hand, you can stay with lead-acid at a
>> much lower price, with better cranking.
>> Concorde sells FAA approved lead-acid batteries using absorbed glass mat
>> technology, also know as recombinant gas technology, which is why their
>> line starts with the letters RG. You are looking at somewhere near $300
>> for 12V models.
>> Odessey sells an improved AGM version, apparently using slightly
>> different lead alloys, perhaps a little different in interior layout.
>> The cost is under $200, depending on whether you want say the 925 model
>> that is very close to the RG-25AXC in capacity and wt, while smaller in
>> physical size. If you go for the 680 mode, it is a lot smaller and
>> lighter, adequate for most purposes for your engine, but lower capacity
>> for an IFR alternator failure situation, costs something under $150.
>> I only briefly looked at EarthX some time ago and was turned off by the
>> cost, and I didn't need the weight savings for my particular W&B
>> situation. I use the 925 for the reserve capacity, and operate in
>> Aridzona. Got 5 yrs on the last one and could have gone longer.
>> In certified planes I used the Concorde and typically got 3-3.5 yrs life.
>> All depends on your needs for cranking, reserve capacity and how much
>> money you want to spend.
>>
>> On 5/8/2021 5:54 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
>> > Folks,
>> >
>> > It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current group
>> > think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more "traditional" like
>> > Concord. This is a component of my airplane that I want to "just work."
>> > I'm not into bleeding edge experimentation.
>> >
>> > The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We don't get
>> > terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal; over 100 degrees
>> in
>> > the hangar in the afternoon.
>> >
>> > My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup alternators
>> > with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
>> >
>> > The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with two
>> > alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient but not life
>> > threatening if the battery failed in flight.
>> >
>> > In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its integrated BMS
>> > would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my old lead acid
>> battery.
>> > At worst, I might need to turn up the voltage on the backup voltage
>> > regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
>> >
>> > Is my head on straight?
>> >
>> > -- Art Z.
>> >
>> > --
>> > https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>> > /Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
>> > stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. /
>> > Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>> ==========
>> -
>> Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
>>I like these instead of ty wraps.
>>https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-8-in-x-1-2-in-Reusable-Ties-50-Pack-90924HD/202261940
>>
>I've got some wires tied up in an airplane that have been there for
>years. Going back in to make modifications, the hardest part was
>finding the end of the velcro so that I could get the "unwrap"
>started. Just as strong as when I put them on.
Good data point! Are your examples the
same product as above? I note that the
product cited is 1/2 x 8" . . . can you
cut them into smaller segments? 8" seems
like a LOT of stuff to wrap around a few
wires.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Beebe <rick(at)beebe.org> |
| Subject: | Current-based alternator noise |
I have two alternators in my plane. The original belt-driven one is 20
years old. I'm not sure what exactly it is--the log book says it's an
ESI 32B19549. It's connected to a B&C LR3B voltage regulator. The second
one is a B&C BC410-H mounted on the accessory case with an SB1B-14
regulator.
I get a horrid whine from the primary alternator. We discussed that a
few months ago and it was suggested I check the grounds. I just finished
my condition inspection and paid close attention to all the grounding
and it appears to be good. All connections are tight with no corrosion.
Measuring resistance from the alternator case to the fuselage is only a
few milliohms.
The standby alternator is dead quiet.
In flight, the whine isn't too horribly noticeable over the engine noise
except for when the strobes are on. Today I turned on the pitot heat and
the whine when from whoop whoop to a constant loud whine. Normal draw,
with strobes and landing light (which I always leave on) is about 13
amps. If I shut off all the lights the draw goes down to 11 amps and at
that level the whine goes away. With pitot heat on it's 19 amps and the
whine is constant.
Thoughts? Does it need to be rebuilt?
Thanks.
--Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Current-based alternator noise |
| From: | "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com> |
Check the AC voltage. It should be less than 1 volt AC
--------
Joe Gores
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501810#501810
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
At 03:24 PM 5/8/2021, you wrote:
>There is no functional difference, but there is an installation
>difference. For runs of any length, a running lace is 2-3 times
>faster to install while providing the same level of
>functionality. I can tie 3 running ties in the time required to tie
>and cut one spot tie. That is the main difference I see.
>
>I will turn your question around: why use spot ties when a running
>lace is three times faster with equal functionality?
Doing a running lace is an acquired skill
if you're going to secure each 'loop'
around the bundle. Lacking such security,
a break in the lace run will relax many
loops around the bundle. Further, you have to work
with as long a hunk of lace as you can
manage without tangling . . . generally
2x your 'reach'.
Individual ties of string or tie-wraps have
been standard operating technique for every
airframe company I've worked for.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current-based alternator noise |
At 04:02 PM 5/9/2021, you wrote:
>I have two alternators in my plane. The original belt-driven one is
>20 years old. I'm not sure what exactly it is--the log book says
>it's an ESI 32B19549. It's connected to a B&C LR3B voltage
>regulator. The second one is a B&C BC410-H mounted on the accessory
>case with an SB1B-14 regulator.
>
>I get a horrid whine from the primary alternator. We discussed that
>a few months ago and it was suggested I check the grounds. I just
>finished my condition inspection and paid close attention to all the
>grounding and it appears to be good. All connections are tight with
>no corrosion. Measuring resistance from the alternator case to the
>fuselage is only a few milliohms.
>
>The standby alternator is dead quiet.
>
>In flight, the whine isn't too horribly noticeable over the engine
>noise except for when the strobes are on. Today I turned on the
>pitot heat and the whine when from whoop whoop to a constant loud
>whine. Normal draw, with strobes and landing light (which I always
>leave on) is about 13 amps. If I shut off all the lights the draw
>goes down to 11 amps and at that level the whine goes away. With
>pitot heat on it's 19 amps and the whine is constant.
>
>Thoughts? Does it need to be rebuilt?
>
>Thanks.
>
>--Rick
99% of alternator noise issues do not
arise from a failure in the alternator.
The symptoms you describe are indicative
of a ground loop in your audio system.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current-based alternator noise |
At 06:31 PM 5/9/2021, you wrote:
>
>Check the AC voltage. It should be less than 1 volt AC
This check can be useful but it's not
all inclusive particularly with digital
voltohmeters that don't have an 'output'
function (built in capacitor in series
with the test lead).
Also, digital voltmeters don't resolve
AC to the native DC world as did analog
meters. Mass of the pointers in analog
meters produce an inertial averaging
function. Digital meters won't read the
same for the complex waveform that is
alternator ripple even if you add the
requisite capacitor to take out the DC
component.
This check goes to the possible but very rare
instance of a bad diode in the alternator.
Since this is a belt driven machine, one way
to check it is take it off and have it run
on a test bench at an alternator dealer or
overhaul shop.
An alternator with damaged diodes will not
deliver anywhere near rated output current.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
>
>
> Folks,
I'll chime in here, too. I used both lacing and Velcro ties in my airplane,
on the cold side of the firewall. I laced the long runs of bundles of wires
that I fabricated prior to installing them in the airplane. I used the
lacing tape from Aircraft Spruce and made a little video
on how I did
it. No, it's not NASA spec but it's secure. I did have to remove the lacing
from a couple of bundles and, believe me, it's secure!
Inside the cabin and behind the panel, I used the thin Velcro ties
that Bob linked to. I like these because they are very thin and flexible so
they are easy to use, even when you only have a few wires to tie up. I'm
not worried about longevity. Name-brand Velcro has been around a long time
so I trust the material. Furthermore, it's a low-risk application. If they
start to deteriorate, I'll notice during the annual inspections and I can
replace them. These ties are only securing bundles of wire, not heavy
components which hold the airplane together.
On the hot side of the firewall, I used the normal heat tolerant stuff:
zip-ties and Adel clamps.
-- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
At 09:46 PM 5/9/2021, you wrote:
>Folks,
>
>I'll chime in here, too. I used both lacing and
>Velcro ties in my airplane, on the cold side of
>the firewall. I laced the long runs of bundles
>of wires that I fabricated prior to installing
>them in the airplane. I used the lacing tape
>from Aircraft Spruce and
>made
>a little video on how I did it. No, it's not
>NASA spec but it's secure. I did have to remove
>the lacing from a couple of bundles and, believe me, it's secure!
>
>Inside the cabin and behind the panel, I used
>the
>thin
>Velcro ties that Bob linked to. I like these
>because they are very thin and flexible so they
>are easy to use, even when you only have a few
>wires to tie up. I'm not worried about
>longevity. Name-brand Velcro has been around a
>long time so I trust the material. Furthermore,
>it's a low-risk application. If they start to
>deteriorate, I'll notice during the annual
>inspections and I can replace them. These ties
>are only securing bundles of wire, not heavy
>components which hold the airplane together.
>
>On the hot side of the firewall, I used the
>normal heat tolerant stuff: zip-ties and Adel clamps.=C2
Good data sir, thank you.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
There's been some anecdotal evidence that newer Odysseys have had some qual
ity/durability issues (short lifespans), but without knowing each battery's
operational history it might not be fair to blame the brand=2E
I've run g
eneric SLA batteries on the firewall on a couple of RV4s for about 25 years
=2E Never paid the premium for Odysseys=2E Typical life of around 4-5 years
=2E Most I've ever paid was around $70, when lead prices were elevated=2E T
ypical price is around $40=2E 20AH or 22AH fit the same space as a PC680, w
ith roughly the same cranking amps and more total energy=2E No vampire load
s in the planes, and I never use a maintainer=2E Planes have often sat for
a month or more without running=2E
Only caution is to check the weight on
any generic=2E If it's several pounds lighter than a PC680, the mfgr is lik
ely lying about AH capacity (though it'll probably still crank the engine w
ithout issue)=2E
If it makes you feel better to pay more, that's fine, bu
t my experience is that there's no need=2E
And again, it's cheaper and hea
lthier to lose the weight in the cockpit than the battery=2E
;-)
Charlie
=81=A3Sent from BlueMail =8B
On May 9, 2021, 8:15 PM, at 8:15 PM
, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List mess
age posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
>
>Yes, batteries ne
ed to be shielded from heat=2E On the firewall should
>not
>be a terribly
hot area, but one could help by placing fire frax or
>similar insulation a
round the battery box, or even creating a metal
>shield spaced a bit outsi
de the battery=2E You can buy at least 3 PC680s
>for the price of one Eart
hX=2E Members of my EAA chapter using the 680
>get
>much better life than
one year, here in Arizona=2E
>My Odyssey is located in the rear of aircraft
so heat is less an issue,
>
>but still exposed to 120 ambient temps, plus
sun heating of fuselage
>when outside=2E 5 yrs and I replaced just to ensu
re reliability on long
>cross-country trips=2E
>Kelly
>
>On 5/9/2021 7:20
AM, Jared Yates wrote:
>> I found that I could get around a year out of a P
C680 before I had to
>
>> replace it=2E The Earthx has lasted much longer,
and I think it is
>because
>> the battery is forward of the firewall=2E Th
e high temp tolerance is
>> better on the Earthx=2E If your battery isn't
in a warm environment,
>> perhaps the PC680 will be up to the task=2E I've
never had any problems
>in
>> the cold with the Earthx as the other poste
r has=2E
>>
>> On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 9:38 AM Art Zemon > > wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the advice, eve
rybody=2E After reading what y'all wrote
>and
>> doing more research, I
am leaning toward the Odyssey PC680=2E I
>think
>> that will provide p
lenty of amps for starting my IO-360=2E
>>
>> I have had to keep my ol
d battery on a trickle charger and am
>very
>> much looking forward to
not needing to hook that up after every
>flight=2E
>>
>> =C2- =C2
- -- Art Z=2E
>>
>> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 8:09 AM Art Zemon > > wrote:
>>
>> Folks,
>
>
>> It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the
>curr
ent
>> group think is on EarthX batteries vs=2E something more
>>
"traditional" like Concord=2E This is a component of my
>airplane
>>
that I want to "just work=2E" I'm not into bleeding edge
>>
experimentation=2E
>>
>> The primary use is starting a Lycoming
IO-360 in Missouri=2E We
>> don't get terribly cold winters but the
summers can be
>brutal;
>> over 100 degrees in the hangar in the a
fternoon=2E
>>
>> My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary an
d backup
>> alternators with B & C Aero voltage regulators=2E
>>
>
> The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with
>>
two alternators and an iPad on board, it would be
>inconvenient
>>
but not life threatening if the battery failed in flight=2E
>>
>>
In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its
>> i
ntegrated BMS would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for
>my
>>
old lead acid battery=2E At worst, I might need to turn up the
>>
voltage on the backup voltage regulator from 13=2E5 V to 14=2E0
>or
>>
so=2E The primary is already set to 14=2E5=2E
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon=2Ecom/
>> /Friendship is like a stone=2E A stone has no value, but when you
>r
ub
>> two stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge=2E /
>> R
abbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>>
=====================
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Features Navigator to browse
n/Subscription,
ronics=2Ecom/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
=
ent also available via the Web Forums!
matronics=2Ecom
==================
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List Wiki!
===
k you for your generous support!
Dralle, List Admin=2E
n
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
fwiw , when i started using it 20 yrs. ago the breaking strength was 80
lbs. . plenty for what i wanted.
On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 10:18 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 09:46 PM 5/9/2021, you wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'll chime in here, too. I used both lacing and Velcro ties in my
> airplane, on the cold side of the firewall. I laced the long runs of
> bundles of wires that I fabricated prior to installing them in the
> airplane. I used the lacing tape from Aircraft Spruce and made a little
> video on
> how I did it. No, it's not NASA spec but it's secure. I did have to remov
e
> the lacing from a couple of bundles and, believe me, it's secure!
>
> Inside the cabin and behind the panel, I used the thin Velcro ties
>
> that Bob linked to. I like these because they are very thin and flexible
so
> they are easy to use, even when you only have a few wires to tie up. I'm
> not worried about longevity. Name-brand Velcro has been around a long tim
e
> so I trust the material. Furthermore, it's a low-risk application. If the
y
> start to deteriorate, I'll notice during the annual inspections and I can
> replace them. These ties are only securing bundles of wire, not heavy
> components which hold the airplane together.
>
> On the hot side of the firewall, I used the normal heat tolerant stuff:
> zip-ties and Adel clamps.=C3=82
>
>
> Good data sir, thank you.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew S. Whiting" <m.whiting(at)frontier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Art,
I went to look at your video and found it was one I had already watched. =F0
=9F=98=81
I likely will do a hybrid approach on my S-21 as well. I will probably lace
the fuselage runs since they are long and straight and I don=99t beli
eve they go through grommets, but I don=99t remember what RANS recomme
nds there.
The wing wires go through grommets in the ribs so I probably will spot tie t
hose 3-4 times between each rib. A running lace going through grommets woul
d be a nuisance.
I also plan to spot tie behind the panel as the runs will be short with many
loops and branches. I have small velcro cord organizers made for charging c
ords and will use those as temporary organizers as I run the wires. However
, I plan to replace all velcro with spot ties once I am done. Velcro just s
creams =9Camateur=9D to me, and yes, I realize I am building an e
xperimental - amateur built airplane. However, as a retired EE, I don
=99t want my electrical system to scream amateur to everyone who sees it.
In front of the firewall, I will use Adel clamps and zip ties very sparingly
. Even though zip ties are easy to use and easy to remove and used widely i
n the auto world, I just don=99t like them. They just scream =9C
mass produced=9D to me.
The nice thing about E-AB, is that we all get to choose our solutions and ho
nor our biases. Cheers.
Matt
Sent from my iPad
> On May 9, 2021, at 10:53 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
>>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'll chime in here, too. I used both lacing and Velcro ties in my airplane
, on the cold side of the firewall. I laced the long runs of bundles of wire
s that I fabricated prior to installing them in the airplane. I used the lac
ing tape from Aircraft Spruce and made a little video on how I did it. No, i
t's not NASA spec but it's secure. I did have to remove the lacing from a co
uple of bundles and, believe me, it's secure!
>
> Inside the cabin and behind the panel, I used the thin Velcro ties that Bo
b linked to. I like these because they are very thin and flexible so they ar
e easy to use, even when you only have a few wires to tie up. I'm not worrie
d about longevity. Name-brand Velcro has been around a long time so I trust t
he material. Furthermore, it's a low-risk application. If they start to dete
riorate, I'll notice during the annual inspections and I can replace them. T
hese ties are only securing bundles of wire, not heavy components which hold
the airplane together.
>
> On the hot side of the firewall, I used the normal heat tolerant stuff: zi
p-ties and Adel clamps.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two sto
nes together properly, sparks of fire emerge.
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Matt,
It sounds like your plane will be gorgeous and exude the Professional Look.
Hopefully I'll get to see it at Oshkosh one of these years. I was more
interested in getting my plane safely into the air so I took the expedient
path. Now I am planning to redo the panel and rewire that end of the plane,
because I don't like how it looks. C'est la vie.
-- Art Z.
On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 6:52 AM Matthew S. Whiting
wrote:
> Art,
>
> I went to look at your video and found it was one I had already watched.
> =F0=9F=98=81
>
> I likely will do a hybrid approach on my S-21 as well. I will probably
> lace the fuselage runs since they are long and straight and I don
=99t believe
> they go through grommets, but I don=99t remember what RANS recommen
ds there.
>
> The wing wires go through grommets in the ribs so I probably will spot ti
e
> those 3-4 times between each rib. A running lace going through grommets
> would be a nuisance.
>
> I also plan to spot tie behind the panel as the runs will be short with
> many loops and branches. I have small velcro cord organizers made for
> charging cords and will use those as temporary organizers as I run the
> wires. However, I plan to replace all velcro with spot ties once I am
> done. Velcro just screams =9Camateur=9D to me, and yes, I re
alize I am
> building an experimental - amateur built airplane. However, as a retired
> EE, I don=99t want my electrical system to scream amateur to everyo
ne who
> sees it.
>
> In front of the firewall, I will use Adel clamps and zip ties very
> sparingly. Even though zip ties are easy to use and easy to remove and
> used widely in the auto world, I just don=99t like them. They just
scream
> =9Cmass produced=9D to me.
>
> The nice thing about E-AB, is that we all get to choose our solutions and
> honor our biases. Cheers.
>
> Matt
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 9, 2021, at 10:53 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
>
>>
>> Folks,
>
> I'll chime in here, too. I used both lacing and Velcro ties in my
> airplane, on the cold side of the firewall. I laced the long runs of
> bundles of wires that I fabricated prior to installing them in the
> airplane. I used the lacing tape from Aircraft Spruce and made a little
> video on
> how I did it. No, it's not NASA spec but it's secure. I did have to remov
e
> the lacing from a couple of bundles and, believe me, it's secure!
>
> Inside the cabin and behind the panel, I used the thin Velcro ties
>
> that Bob linked to. I like these because they are very thin and flexible
so
> they are easy to use, even when you only have a few wires to tie up. I'm
> not worried about longevity. Name-brand Velcro has been around a long tim
e
> so I trust the material. Furthermore, it's a low-risk application. If the
y
> start to deteriorate, I'll notice during the annual inspections and I can
> replace them. These ties are only securing bundles of wire, not heavy
> components which hold the airplane together.
>
> On the hot side of the firewall, I used the normal heat tolerant stuff:
> zip-ties and Adel clamps.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> *Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
> stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>
>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernest Christley <echristley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Yes.
One end balloons out, and has a slot.=C2- I wrapped it around a tube and
brought the other end through the slot.=C2- Cinched it up tight,=C2- le
aving the velcro hanging.=C2- I'd then lay wires in, and stick the velcro
around just enough to hold it.=C2- Once all the wires were in place, I'd
rub the velcro down all around.=C2- It would only wrap a couple times on
a 1/2" tube.=C2- =C2-I'd cut them in places where I was just trying to
bundle the wires and not anchoring them.
That was a steel tube plane.=C2- On an aluminum plane or plastic plane, I
'd rivet or glue on a tab with a slot in it.=C2- That is a little harder,
because to get a good wrap you need to feed it back through the slot, slid
ing the velcro against itself.=C2- The velcro doesn't want to cooperate w
ith that operation.
lls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
- I like these instead of ty wraps.
- https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-8-in-x-1-2-in-Reusable-Tie
s-50-Pack-90924HD/202261940
I've got some wires tied up in an airplane that have been there foryears.
=C2- Going back in to make modifications, the hardest part wasfinding the
end of the velcro so that I could get the "unwrap"started.=C2- Just as s
trong as when I put them on.
=C2- Good data point! Are your examples the
=C2- same product as above?=C2- I note that the
=C2- product cited is 1/2 x 8" . . . can you
=C2- cut them into smaller segments? 8" seems
=C2- like a LOT of stuff to wrap around a few
=C2- wires.
=C2- Bob . . .
=C2- Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If blackboxes
=C2- survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
=C2- out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew S. Whiting" <m.whiting(at)frontier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
No sure about gorgeous, but hopefully at least respectable looking. If you w
ant to see more details, I am keeping my builders log in the EAA site https:
//eaabuilderslog.org and you can search =9CWhiting=9D and find i
t.
Matt
Sent from my iPad
> On May 10, 2021, at 8:16 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Matt,
>
> It sounds like your plane will be gorgeous and exude the Professional Look
. Hopefully I'll get to see it at Oshkosh one of these years. I was more int
erested in getting my plane safely into the air so I took the expedient path
. Now I am planning to redo the panel and rewire that end of the plane, beca
use I don't like how it looks. C'est la vie.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
>
>
>> On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 6:52 AM Matthew S. Whiting wrote:
>> Art,
>>
>> I went to look at your video and found it was one I had already watched.
=F0=9F=98=81
>>
>> I likely will do a hybrid approach on my S-21 as well. I will probably l
ace the fuselage runs since they are long and straight and I don=99t b
elieve they go through grommets, but I don=99t remember what RANS reco
mmends there.
>>
>> The wing wires go through grommets in the ribs so I probably will spot ti
e those 3-4 times between each rib. A running lace going through grommets w
ould be a nuisance.
>>
>> I also plan to spot tie behind the panel as the runs will be short with m
any loops and branches. I have small velcro cord organizers made for chargi
ng cords and will use those as temporary organizers as I run the wires. How
ever, I plan to replace all velcro with spot ties once I am done. Velcro ju
st screams =9Camateur=9D to me, and yes, I realize I am building
an experimental - amateur built airplane. However, as a retired EE, I don
=99t want my electrical system to scream amateur to everyone who sees it.
>>
>> In front of the firewall, I will use Adel clamps and zip ties very sparin
gly. Even though zip ties are easy to use and easy to remove and used widel
y in the auto world, I just don=99t like them. They just scream
=9Cmass produced=9D to me.
>>
>> The nice thing about E-AB, is that we all get to choose our solutions and
honor our biases. Cheers.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>>> On May 9, 2021, at 10:53 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
>>>>
>>> =EF=BB
>>>>
>>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> I'll chime in here, too. I used both lacing and Velcro ties in my airpla
ne, on the cold side of the firewall. I laced the long runs of bundles of wi
res that I fabricated prior to installing them in the airplane. I used the l
acing tape from Aircraft Spruce and made a little video on how I did it. No,
it's not NASA spec but it's secure. I did have to remove the lacing from a c
ouple of bundles and, believe me, it's secure!
>>>
>>> Inside the cabin and behind the panel, I used the thin Velcro ties that B
ob linked to. I like these because they are very thin and flexible so they a
re easy to use, even when you only have a few wires to tie up. I'm not worri
ed about longevity. Name-brand Velcro has been around a long time so I trust
the material. Furthermore, it's a low-risk application. If they start to de
teriorate, I'll notice during the annual inspections and I can replace them.
These ties are only securing bundles of wire, not heavy components which ho
ld the airplane together.
>>>
>>> On the hot side of the firewall, I used the normal heat tolerant stuff: z
ip-ties and Adel clamps.
>>>
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>> Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two s
tones together properly, sparks of fire emerge.
>>> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
>
>
> --
> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
> Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two sto
nes together properly, sparks of fire emerge.
> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: EarthX vs Concord Batteries |
OK, LOL, with both Charlie and Joe posting with first-hand experience with
the "no name" AGM batteries, I decided to try one. I found the Super Start
PowerSport ETX20L on the shelf at O'Reilly Auto Airplane Parts. Clearly the
same battery that Lowes sells under the Deka name. The store manager told
me how great their support is and chuckled when I asked him if that means
they will come give me a jump if the battery ever fails to start the
airplane. I'm sure that means that he will race right out with the jumper
cables.
Thanks again, everybody.
-- Art Z.
On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 11:18 PM Charlie England
wrote:
> There's been some anecdotal evidence that newer Odysseys have had some
> quality/durability issues (short lifespans), but without knowing each
> battery's operational history it might not be fair to blame the brand.
>
> I've run generic SLA batteries on the firewall on a couple of RV4s for
> about 25 years. Never paid the premium for Odysseys. Typical life of around
> 4-5 years. Most I've ever paid was around $70, when lead prices were
> elevated. Typical price is around $40. 20AH or 22AH fit the same space as a
> PC680, with roughly the same cranking amps and more total energy. No
> vampire loads in the planes, and I never use a maintainer. Planes have
> often sat for a month or more without running.
>
> Only caution is to check the weight on any generic. If it's several pounds
> lighter than a PC680, the mfgr is likely lying about AH capacity (though
> it'll probably still crank the engine without issue).
>
> If it makes you feel better to pay more, that's fine, but my experience is
> that there's no need.
>
> And again, it's cheaper and healthier to lose the weight in the cockpit
> than the battery.
> ;-)
>
> Charlie
>
> Sent from BlueMail <http://www.bluemail.me/r?b=16470>
> On May 9, 2021, at 8:15 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Yes, batteries need to be shielded from heat. On the firewall should not
>> be a terribly hot area, but one could help by placing fire frax or
>> similar insulation around the battery box, or even creating a metal
>> shield spaced a bit outside the battery. You can buy at least 3 PC680s
>> for the price of one EarthX. Members of my EAA chapter using the 680 get
>> much better life than one year, here in Arizona.
>> My Odyssey is located in the rear of aircraft so heat is less an issue,
>> but still exposed to 120 ambient temps, plus sun heating of fuselage
>> when outside. 5 yrs and I replaced just to ensure reliability on long
>> cross-country trips.
>> Kelly
>>
>> On 5/9/2021 7:20 AM, Jared Yates wrote:
>>
>>> I found that I could get around a year out of a PC680 before I had to
>>> replace it. The Earthx has lasted much longer, and I think it is because
>>> the battery is forward of the firewall. The high temp tolerance is
>>> better on the Earthx. If your battery isn't in a warm environment,
>>> perhaps the PC680 will be up to the task. I've never had any problems in
>>> the cold with the Earthx as the other poster has.
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 9:38 AM Art Zemon >> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks for the advice, everybody. After reading what y'all wrote and
>>> doing more research, I am leaning toward the Odyssey PC680. I think
>>> that will provide plenty of amps for starting my IO-360.
>>>
>>> I have had to keep my old battery on a trickle charger and am very
>>> much looking forward to not needing to hook that up after every flight.
>>>
>>> -- Art Z.
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 8:09 AM Art Zemon >> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> It's time to replace my old battery and wonder what the current
>>> group think is on EarthX batteries vs. something more
>>> "traditional" like Concord. This is a component of my airplane
>>> that I want to "just work." I'm not into bleeding edge
>>> experimentation.
>>>
>>> The primary use is starting a Lycoming IO-360 in Missouri. We
>>> don't get terribly cold winters but the summers can be brutal;
>>> over 100 degrees in the hangar in the afternoon.
>>>
>>> My charging system is all B & C Aero: primary and backup
>>> alternators with B & C Aero voltage regulators.
>>>
>>> The engine is not electrically dependent (dual mags) and with
>>> two alternators and an iPad on board, it would be inconvenient
>>> but not life threatening if the battery failed in flight.
>>>
>>> In that environment, it looks like the EarthX with its
>>> integrated BMS would be pretty much a drop-in replacement for my
>>> old lead acid battery. At worst, I might need to turn up the
>>> voltage on the backup voltage regulator from 13.5 V to 14.0 or
>>> so. The primary is already set to 14.5.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
>>> /Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub
>>> two stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. /
>>> Rabbi Mordechai of Lechocs.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigato="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
At 08:18 AM 5/10/2021, you wrote:
>Yes.
>
>One end balloons out, and has a slot. I wrapped it around a tube
>and brought the other end through the slot. Cinched it up
>tight, leaving the velcro hanging. I'd then lay wires in, and
>stick the velcro around just enough to hold it. Once all the wires
>were in place, I'd rub the velcro down all around. It would only
>wrap a couple times on a 1/2" tube. I'd cut them in places where I
>was just trying to bundle the wires and not anchoring them.
>
>That was a steel tube plane. On an aluminum plane or plastic plane,
>I'd rivet or glue on a tab with a slot in it. That is a little
>harder, because to get a good wrap you need to feed it back through
>the slot, sliding the velcro against itself. The velcro doesn't
>want to cooperate with that operation.
Interesting. I've got to go to Wichita
sometime this week. I'll drop by HD and
see if I can find some.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Moyle <moylemc(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Laced mine...under the boot cowl and firewall forward...much nicer and less l
ikely to cut oneself on the sharp stub from the tie wrap...if you don=99
t use flush cutting snips. I cut off all the tie wraps after lacing...
Sent from my iPad
> On 10 May 2021, at 11:24 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroele
ctric.com> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB At 08:18 AM 5/10/2021, you wrote:
>> Yes.
>>
>> One end balloons out, and has a slot. I wrapped it around a tube and bro
ught the other end through the slot. Cinched it up tight, leaving the velc
ro hanging. I'd then lay wires in, and stick the velcro around just enough t
o hold it. Once all the wires were in place, I'd rub the velcro down all ar
ound. It would only wrap a couple times on a 1/2" tube. I'd cut them in p
laces where I was just trying to bundle the wires and not anchoring them.
>>
>> That was a steel tube plane. On an aluminum plane or plastic plane, I'd r
ivet or glue on a tab with a slot in it. That is a little harder, because t
o get a good wrap you need to feed it back through the slot, sliding the vel
cro against itself. The velcro doesn't want to cooperate with that operatio
n.
>
> Interesting. I've got to go to Wichita
> sometime this week. I'll drop by HD and
> see if I can find some.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew S. Whiting" <m.whiting(at)frontier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
High temp cord or standard for FWF?
Sent from my iPad
> On May 10, 2021, at 5:58 PM, Mark Moyle wrote:
>
> =EF=BBLaced mine...under the boot cowl and firewall forward...much nice
r and less likely to cut oneself on the sharp stub from the tie wrap...if yo
u don=99t use flush cutting snips. I cut off all the tie wraps after l
acing...
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>>> On 10 May 2021, at 11:24 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroe
lectric.com> wrote:
>>>
>> =EF=BB At 08:18 AM 5/10/2021, you wrote:
>>> Yes.
>>>
>>> One end balloons out, and has a slot. I wrapped it around a tube and br
ought the other end through the slot. Cinched it up tight, leaving the vel
cro hanging. I'd then lay wires in, and stick the velcro around just enough
to hold it. Once all the wires were in place, I'd rub the velcro down all a
round. It would only wrap a couple times on a 1/2" tube. I'd cut them in p
laces where I was just trying to bundle the wires and not anchoring them.
>>>
>>> That was a steel tube plane. On an aluminum plane or plastic plane, I'd
rivet or glue on a tab with a slot in it. That is a little harder, because
to get a good wrap you need to feed it back through the slot, sliding the v
elcro against itself. The velcro doesn't want to cooperate with that operat
ion.
>>
>> Interesting. I've got to go to Wichita
>> sometime this week. I'll drop by HD and
>> see if I can find some.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
>> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
>> out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
| From: | C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com> |
Standard lacing has worked fine for me for 15 years even when on things
that run a little over 100*C.
Ken
On 10/05/2021 7:13 PM, Matthew S. Whiting wrote:
> High temp cord or standard for FWF?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On May 10, 2021, at 5:58 PM, Mark Moyle wrote:
>>
>> Laced mine...under the boot cowl and firewall forward...much nicer
>> and less likely to cut oneself on the sharp stub from the tie
>> wrap...if you dont use flush cutting snips. I cut off all the tie
>> wraps after lacing...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On 10 May 2021, at 11:24 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> At 08:18 AM 5/10/2021, you wrote:
>>>> Yes.
>>>>
>>>> One end balloons out, and has a slot. I wrapped it around a tube
>>>> and brought the other end through the slot. Cinched it up tight,
>>>> leaving the velcro hanging. I'd then lay wires in, and stick the
>>>> velcro around just enough to hold it. Once all the wires were in
>>>> place, I'd rub the velcro down all around. It would only wrap a
>>>> couple times on a 1/2" tube. I'd cut them in places where I was
>>>> just trying to bundle the wires and not anchoring them.
>>>>
>>>> That was a steel tube plane. On an aluminum plane or plastic
>>>> plane, I'd rivet or glue on a tab with a slot in it. That is a
>>>> little harder, because to get a good wrap you need to feed it back
>>>> through the slot, sliding the velcro against itself. The velcro
>>>> doesn't want to cooperate with that operation.
>>>
>>> Interesting. I've got to go to Wichita
>>> sometime this week. I'll drop by HD and
>>> see if I can find some.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
>>> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
>>> out of that stuff?"
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
| From: | "dj_theis" <djtheis58(at)gmail.com> |
Ive used a similar product that is a little less refined (no hole die cut in on
end to wrap a nearby tube) and found it to be very useful for all sorts of wrapping
tasks.
https://www.amazon.com/SJ3000-Scotchmate-Hook-Multiple-Sizes/dp/B007Y7JCJC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
Ive always much preferred the 1/2 wide and have found it in black, red and green
colors. Easily cuts to your desired length with a sharp knife or scissor.
And yes, 8 is a bit long for all many / most wire bundles.
The spec on the 3M branded stuff is 93C.
[quote]
Interesting. I've got to go to Wichita
sometime this week. I'll drop by HD and
see if I can find some.[/quote]
I stopped by HD just this weekend and struggled to find the first product referenced,
in all the normal places, like in the electrical area near the tie wraps.
Finally ran across it on an end cap randomly placed near the windows and doors.
Dan Theis
--------
Scratch building Sonex #1362
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501854#501854
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
| From: | "johnbright" <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com> |
Hook and loop ties at https://ziptie.com/more/hook-and-loop
--------
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YOtPiA3AdUsQEYR4nodBESNAo21rxdnx4pFs7VxXfuI/edit?usp=sharing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501855#501855
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | ROTAX 914 Z 16 John Deere VR Connection |
My ducati VR charging light glows (as opposed to going out fully) for
between 30 seconds and over a minute after start up. My Dynon says that it
is providing the normal voltage.
I am told that a glowing light is a symptom of pending failure.
If this is the case I need to change the VR. (I have a bandC VR on order
and will have to remove my OVP because the bandc has an integral OVP)
I also have a John Deere VR which I bought as a spare. My question is
about the connection of the JD VR
The ducati is as follows:
G - dynamo
G - dynamo
C - charging light 22awg and 12AWG to capacitor
B - 12 AWG to capacitor
R - 12 AWG Capacitor
Is this the correct wiring for the JD? (product of web research)
AC - Dynamo (equivalent to G)
AC - Dynamo (equivalent to G)
L - light 22AWG - (equivalent to C)
B+ - Capacitor 12 AWG (equivalent to B)
IGW - Capicitor 12 AWG (equivalent to R)
Second question: I have a 12v 20AH AGM battery. I see from the web that
the JD VR outputs a higher voltage than the Ducati. Is this an issue for
my battery?
Thanks
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ROTAX 914 Z 16 John Deere VR Connection |
At 09:28 AM 5/11/2021, you wrote:
>My ducati VR charging light glows (as opposed to
>going out fully) for between 30 seconds and over
>a minute after start up.=C2 My Dynon says that it
>is providing the normal voltage.=C2 =C2
>
>I am told that a glowing light is a symptom of pending failure.
I doubt that. That 'warning' circuit is exceedingly
crude . . . I don't even recommend hooking the thing
up. ACTIVE NOTIFICATION of voltage abnormality
is your primary monitoring system. I'd ignore the
light.
>I also have a John Deere VR which I bought as a
>spare.=C2 My question is about the connection of the JD VR
>
>The ducati is as follows:
>G - dynamo
>G - dynamo
>C - charging light 22awg and 12AWG to capacitor
>B - 12 AWG to capacitor
>R - 12 AWG Capacitor
>Is this the correct wiring for the JD?=C2 (product of web research)
>AC - Dynamo=C2 (equivalent to G)
>AC -=C2 Dynamo=C2 =C2 =C2 (equivalent to G)
>L - light 22AWG - (equivalent to C)
>B+ - Capacitor 12 AWG=C2 =C2 (equivalent to B)
>IGW - Capicitor 12 AWG=C2 =C2 (equivalent to R)
Why not leave your current regulator place
until the B&C unit is installed.
>Second question:=C2 I have a 12v 20AH AGM
>battery.=C2 I see from the web that the JD VR
>outputs a higher voltage than the Ducati.=C2 Is this an issue for my
battery?
What voltage values are cited? It's
unlikely that the JD will not be suited
to task but why bother?
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ROTAX 914 Z 16 John Deere VR Connection |
Thank you Bob
I will do as you suggest. Much appreciated.
Will
William Daniell
+1 786 878 0246
On Tue, May 11, 2021, 11:10 Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 09:28 AM 5/11/2021, you wrote:
>
> My ducati VR charging light glows (as opposed to going out fully) for
> between 30 seconds and over a minute after start up.=C3=82 My Dynon says
that
> it is providing the normal voltage.=C3=82 =C3=82
>
> I am told that a glowing light is a symptom of pending failure.
>
>
> I doubt that. That 'warning' circuit is exceedingly
> crude . . . I don't even recommend hooking the thing
> up. ACTIVE NOTIFICATION of voltage abnormality
> is your primary monitoring system. I'd ignore the
> light.
>
>
> I also have a John Deere VR which I bought as a spare.=C3=82 My question
is
> about the connection of the JD VR
>
> The ducati is as follows:
> G - dynamo
> G - dynamo
> C - charging light 22awg and 12AWG to capacitor
> B - 12 AWG to capacitor
> R - 12 AWG Capacitor
>
>
> Is this the correct wiring for the JD?=C3=82 (product of web research)
> AC - Dynamo=C3=82 (equivalent to G)
> AC -=C3=82 Dynamo=C3=82 =C3=82 =C3=82 (equivalent to G)
> L - light 22AWG - (equivalent to C)
> B+ - Capacitor 12 AWG=C3=82 =C3=82 (equivalent to B)
> IGW - Capicitor 12 AWG=C3=82 =C3=82 (equivalent to R)
>
>
> Why not leave your current regulator place
> until the B&C unit is installed.
>
> Second question:=C3=82 I have a 12v 20AH AGM battery.=C3=82 I see from
the web
> that the JD VR outputs a higher voltage than the Ducati.=C3=82 Is this a
n issue
> for my battery?
>
>
> What voltage values are cited? It's
> unlikely that the JD will not be suited
> to task but why bother?
>
> Bob . . .
>
> Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
> survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
> out of that stuff?"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr> |
Hello all,
My buddy is building a light carbon fuselage airplane.
The mounting of the comm antenna is envisaged in the fiberglass fin, but
in order to save the 0.5 kg of RG 58 to the tail, we are wondering
whether some discreet antenna could be glued to the underside of the
cockpit canopy?
Or maybe some not-too-lossy lighter coaxial and connectors could be used?
Any advice appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
.--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help me write my term paper, but I =?ISO-8859-1?Q?don=99t?= |
know Where to Sta
| From: | "gojon1955bo" <gojon1955bo(at)gmail.com> |
Help me write my term paper, but I dont know Where to Start?
In every course, students will come across assignments and case studies. These
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Remember, a structure will tell us exactly why we should pick on a particular
theme. Without a proper plan, it becomes easy to loose our foggies and wind
Up with a poorly structured document. As such, these papers wont earn anyone
excellent scores.
But when faced with an exceptional opportunity to select an independent Study Centre
anywhere in the world, which opportunities do not belong to those who take
advantage of it. Commonly, institutions will do whatever it takes to find a
legit institution. There are very many reasons for selecting that organization.
For instance, organizations increase the odds of receiving funding from the
applicants. They can also benefit from the referral fee paid by the client. If
a company wants to avail its services for the stated period, then it has no
choice to accommodate the student in a Truth or a Fiction Organization.
Steps to Follow When Looking for a Reputable Company to Write Your Term Paper
Here are the steps to follow whenever seeking assistance from online companies:
Write a brief note to any concerned person about the project. Then, seek assurance
from the Headmaster that the assignment is exclusive. The moment of submission
of the writer, the college knows whether to ask for proofreading and editing.
Doubts do exist regarding the delivery of the final copy. It is, therefore,
essential to ensure the office of the editor- in touches with the clients.
Someone with a great grasp on the TOC& one of the significant sections of a dissertation
is the acknowledgment.
Assessment
This is the section that comes right after the abstract. A review is necessary
to show the merits and demerits the given thesis. The assessment must comprise
the following five elements.
paper writer (https://www.masterpapers.com/)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501871#501871
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
On my plane the only place I used zip ties (or tie wraps or whatever you want to
call them) is where using lacing cord was impractical. Mostly hard to reach
places. Used them in the engine compartment and never had a problem. Seems like
every zip tie I've come across in an engine compartment almost disintegrates
when you go to cut it off. I'm sure there are some that are made for that
environment, but I bet they're a lot more money than lacing cord.
I did a couple of running laces but found it easier to just do spot ties.
And I find it much easier to cut a bundle open that's been tied with lacing cord.
With zip ties you have to insert the cutter into the bundle. Always makes
me nervous. With lacing cord you cut the knot outside of the bundle.
Just my two cents.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501874#501874
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Carter <david(at)carter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
Bob posted this link earlier to lacing cord at Aircraft Spruce -
https://tinyurl.com/ydta87er
My question - polyester or nylon?
Thanks,
David
---
David Carter
david(at)carter.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
At 10:48 AM 5/12/2021, you wrote:
>Bob posted this link earlier to lacing cord at
>Aircraft Spruce -=C2
https://tinyurl.com/ydta87er
>
>My question - polyester=C2 or nylon?=C2
>
>Thanks,
>David
Polyester
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lacing Tape |
At 10:23 AM 5/12/2021, you wrote:
>
>On my plane the only place I used zip ties (or tie wraps or whatever
>you want to call them) is where using lacing cord was impractical.
>Mostly hard to reach places. Used them in the engine compartment
>and never had a problem. Seems like every zip tie I've come across
>in an engine compartment almost disintegrates when you go to cut it
>off. I'm sure there are some that are made for that environment,
>but I bet they're a lot more money than lacing cord.
You got that right. Run of the mill tye-wraps
are generally fabricated from Nylon which does
not weather well. Used outdoors exposed to sun
and or other extremes such as temperature swings
and hydrocarbons, the little fellers get brittle.
Rugged tye-wraps are available made from Tefzel
which IS more expensive . . . but not as bad
as when I first encountered them.
Steinair offers these products
https://tinyurl.com/yjcx26kh
The first time I looked these up (about 20
years ago) the little ones were over $1.00
in small quantities.
I can't imagine that one would use more than
say, 50 tye-wraps under cowl which would
have an acquisition cost on the order
of $17. Not too bad . . .
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Pengilly" <Peter(at)sportingaero.com> |
Everything is a compromise. Copper tape can be used to create an antenna, the more
of the antenna that is vertical the better the performance. A BNC connector
can be soldered on to the foot, not sure how the ground plane would work, perhaps
it needs to be a dipole? I haven't been very close to anyone who has used
a tape antenna, but my impression was always that they required more maintenance,
and often have worse performance, than installed antennas. How important
is a reliable radio against saving weight?
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com>
On Behalf Of GTH
Sent: 12 May 2021 00:56
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Canopy antenna?
Hello all,
My buddy is building a light carbon fuselage airplane.
The mounting of the comm antenna is envisaged in the fiberglass fin, but in order
to save the 0.5 kg of RG 58 to the tail, we are wondering whether some discreet
antenna could be glued to the underside of the cockpit canopy?
Or maybe some not-too-lossy lighter coaxial and connectors could be used?
Any advice appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
.--
Best regards,
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skywagon185guy <skywagon185(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current-based alternator noise |
Could be a power diode failure.
On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 2:05 PM Rick Beebe wrote:
> I have two alternators in my plane. The original belt-driven one is 20
> years old. I'm not sure what exactly it is--the log book says it's an ESI
> 32B19549. It's connected to a B&C LR3B voltage regulator. The second one is
> a B&C BC410-H mounted on the accessory case with an SB1B-14 regulator.
>
> I get a horrid whine from the primary alternator. We discussed that a few
> months ago and it was suggested I check the grounds. I just finished my
> condition inspection and paid close attention to all the grounding and it
> appears to be good. All connections are tight with no corrosion. Measuring
> resistance from the alternator case to the fuselage is only a few milliohms.
>
> The standby alternator is dead quiet.
>
> In flight, the whine isn't too horribly noticeable over the engine noise
> except for when the strobes are on. Today I turned on the pitot heat and
> the whine when from whoop whoop to a constant loud whine. Normal draw, with
> strobes and landing light (which I always leave on) is about 13 amps. If I
> shut off all the lights the draw goes down to 11 amps and at that level the
> whine goes away. With pitot heat on it's 19 amps and the whine is constant.
>
> Thoughts? Does it need to be rebuilt?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --Rick
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primary and B/U Alt Fields on Master Bus |
| From: | "Bud K" <budkeil(at)gmail.com> |
I am planning an avionics upgrade on an RV-4. The airplane currently has and SD-8
back up dynamo as well as an internally regulated alternator. I plan on installing
a Garmin GPS175 and heated pitot and a Dynon Skyview to allow me to fly
IFR. I am planning to rearchitect the electrical system as part of the upgrade.
I plan on implementing an Essential Bus architecture similar to figure
Z-12, dual alternator, single battery.
Question #1. Why are both the primary and B/U alternator fields powered by the
master bus? Wouldn't it be prudent to power at least the B/U alternator field
from the E-bus in case you have to shut down the Master bus, thereby disabling
both alternators? I know that the SD-8 can be 'self exciting', however, if it
is not, the B/U alternator would be shut down.
Question #2. Shouldn't the B/U alternator B lead go the battery side of the Battery
Contactor as opposed to master bus side? Wouldn't that charge the battery
partially offsetting the power draw from E-bus devices.
--------
Bud
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501883#501883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Primary and B/U Alt Fields on Master Bus |
Bud,
It sounds like you are building an airplane with a panel much like I put
into my BD-4C. I have MGL instead of Dynon but also used the GPS175 and
have a heated pitot tube. I started out planning to implement an essential
bus, as you described, until I did my electrical load analysis. I have a
B&C standby alternator which provides about 30 amps when the engine is at
cruise RPM. It turns out that that is sufficient to run everything in the
airplane except the pitot heat and the autopilot servos.
Were I to lose the primary alternator in IMC, the battery could easily
carry the load which the standby alternator could not cover until I reached
VMC and could turn off the pitot heat. Autopilot is optional anyway. That
means that, even without the essential bus, a primary alternator failure is
almost a non-event.
That realization made my electrical system much simpler.
Can you upgrade your SD-8 to a bigger standby alternator?
-- Art Z.
On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 9:31 PM Bud K wrote:
>
> I am planning an avionics upgrade on an RV-4. The airplane currently has
> and SD-8 back up dynamo as well as an internally regulated alternator. I
> plan on installing a Garmin GPS175 and heated pitot and a Dynon Skyview to
> allow me to fly IFR. I am planning to rearchitect the electrical system as
> part of the upgrade. I plan on implementing an Essential Bus architecture
> similar to figure Z-12, dual alternator, single battery.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/
*Friendship is like a stone. A stone has no value, but when you rub two
stones together properly, sparks of fire emerge. *
Rabbi Mordechai of Lechovitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primary and B/U Alt Fields on Master Bus |
| From: | "Bud K" <budkeil(at)gmail.com> |
Art,
Yes I could upgrade to a larger, pad mounted alternator but would rather use what
I have. I recognize the added expense and complexity of going the e-bus route.
And yes, that pitot heat power is over half of my e-bus load. I don't see
myself continuing to fly in IMC with a primary system failure and would head
to VMC ASAP.
Since your B/U alternator has the capacity, did you implement the e-bus architecture
or put everything on a main bus?
--------
Bud
RV-4
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501892#501892
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin 430 |
Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give a
comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an approach
certified GPS to the RV, but I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know
what I don't know. I do know that the 430 is far more common, and the 480
seems to sell for less money in the used market. I've heard only two
opinions comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said their choice
was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate sample size,
so I'd like to get a bit more of a consensus.
Thanks,
Charlie
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Given the install costs, whether in time/effort, or in paying someone to
install, seems to me a bad idea to consider the 480 that is no longer
supported, the 430 if not upgraded to WAAS, which is barely supported,
and even the WAAS unit that is likely to go unsupported within the next
5 years. I made the choice to go to a 650 about 7-8 years ago for that
reason, and they are ever closer to becoming boat anchors.
So, to me the discussion about ease of use between the Apollo designed
units and the Garmin is greatly overshadowed by their expected useful
life. Both original units are over 20 yrs old, using computer chips not
made for 20 yrs, and even the upgraded WAAS units are already 13 yrs
old. It seems like very few avionics with chips and displays that wear
out are supported much past 20 yrs and some much less.
On 5/13/2021 6:54 AM, Charlie England wrote:
> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give a
> comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an approach
> certified GPS to the RV, but I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know
> what I don't know. I do know that the 430 is far more common,and the
> 480 seems to sell for less money in the used market. I've heard only two
> opinions comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said their
> choice was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate
> sample size, so I'd like to get a bit more of a consensus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
Charlie,
I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out that unit.
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England wrote:
> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give a
> comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an approach
> certified GPS to the RV, but I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know
> what I don't know. I do know that the 430 is far more common, and the 480
> seems to sell for less money in the used market. I've heard only two
> opinions comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said their choice
> was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate sample size,
> so I'd like to get a bit more of a consensus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
>
> <#m_6093873194344501072_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Art,
Thanks; I'm aware of the 175. I'm sure it's a fine unit, but it ain't
cheap, considering that it only has one function. Both the 430 & 480
include a comm radio and an alternate (backup) means of nav/approach.
GPS outages here in the South are, if not frequent, common enough that I
wouldn't want to be dependent solely on GPS in IFR conditions.
Charlie
On 5/13/2021 9:42 AM, Art Zemon wrote:
> Charlie,
>
> I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out that
> unit.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England > wrote:
>
> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give
> a comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an
> approach certified GPS to the RV, but I'm 'not yet rated', so I
> truly don't know what I don't know. I do know that the 430 is far
> more common,and the 480 seems to sell for less money in the used
> market. I've heard only two opinions comparing the two;
> diametrically opposed. Each said their choice was far easier to
> use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate sample size, so I'd
> like to get a bit more of a consensus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
I flew the 480 for six years in my RV7 and the 430 inmany spam cans. Am now
flying a Avidyne 540 in the RV. I rank the three as follows 540 best, 480
close second, 430 very distant third. YMMV.
On Thu, May 13, 2021, 07:02 Charlie England wrote:
> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give a
> comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an approach
> certified GPS to the RV, but I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know
> what I don't know. I do know that the 430 is far more common, and the 480
> seems to sell for less money in the used market. I've heard only two
> opinions comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said their choice
> was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate sample size,
> so I'd like to get a bit more of a consensus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
>
> <#m_-8396110847717575666_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rd2 <rd2(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
Or its bigger brother GNX375, which adds an ADS-B (Out and In) x-ponder to the
GPS175. Of course with GNX375 you get 2 equipment pieces out, if one fails and
needs to go to the shop.
I have found the GPS175/GNX375 leaning curve not steep and the touchscreen fine,
even for aging eyes, despite the small dimensions.Rumen----- Original Message
-----
From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin
430
Charlie,
I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out that unit.
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England wrote:
Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give a comparison
of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an approach certified GPS to the
RV, but
I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know what I don't know. I do know that the
430 is far more common, and the 480 seems to sell for less money in the used
market. I've heard only two opinions comparing the two; diametrically opposed.
Each said their choice was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate
sample size, so I'd like to get a bit more of a consensus.
Thanks,
Charlie
Virus-free. www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sebastien <cluros(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
Charlie,
Your diametrically opposed opinions are both correct. The 480 has more
functionality and is more complex but once you learn how to use it, it is
easier for complex IFR. The 430 is much more simple and intuitive so much
easier to pick up and use for simple flights and IFR procedures.
The common problem with both is lack of support. The 430W is still
supported by Garmin ... today. It might not be tomorrow.
On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 7:47 AM Art Zemon wrote:
> Charlie,
>
> I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out that
> unit.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England
> wrote:
>
>> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give a
>> comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an approach
>> certified GPS to the RV, but I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know
>> what I don't know. I do know that the 430 is far more common, and the 480
>> seems to sell for less money in the used market. I've heard only two
>> opinions comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said their choice
>> was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate sample size,
>> so I'd like to get a bit more of a consensus.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>> Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>>
>> <#m_5489770090366040310_m_-7514915172799506573_m_6093873194344501072_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Quinn <jquinn3(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
Don,
Garmin dropped all maint/repair support for the 480 last year. May explain
why costs are lower.
On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 10:48 AM rd2 wrote:
> Or its bigger brother GNX375, which adds an ADS-B (Out and In) x-ponder to
> the GPS175. Of course with GNX375 you get 2 equipment pieces out, if one
> fails and needs to go to the shop.
> I have found the GPS175/GNX375 leaning curve not steep and the touchscreen
> fine, even for aging eyes, despite the small dimensions.
> Rumen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs
> Garmin 430
>
> Charlie,
>
> I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out that
> unit.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England
> wrote:
>
>> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give a
>> comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an approach
>> certified GPS to the RV, but
>>
>> I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know what I don't know. I do know
>> that the 430 is far more common, and the 480 seems to sell for less money
>> in the used market. I've heard only two opinions comparing the two;
>> diametrically opposed. Each said their choice was far easier to use in an
>> IFR environment. Not an adequate sample size, so I'd like to get a bit more
>> of a consensus.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>>
>>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
Again, serious money vs features/abilities. I already have a Garmin 327
in my flying -6, and in my -7 project. I just added ADSB out/in to the
-6 via the uAvionics EchoUAT *with an approved position source* for
~$1400. I can't make sense of paying 2 or 3 times that for the 'gubmnt'
to track non-stop my every move.
I'm not yet instrument rated; may never be. I don't fly enough to
justify the rather extreme expense of the new tech. I'm looking for an
affordable option that would enable training, if I decide to pursue the
rating.
Charlie
On 5/13/2021 10:44 AM, rd2 wrote:
> Or its bigger brother GNX375, which adds an ADS-B (Out and In)
> x-ponder to the GPS175. Of course with GNX375 you get 2 equipment
> pieces out, if one fails and needs to go to the shop.
> I have found the GPS175/GNX375 leaning curve not steep and the
> touchscreen fine, even for aging eyes, despite the small dimensions.
> Rumen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480
> vs Garmin 430
>
> Charlie,
>
> I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out that
> unit.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England > wrote:
>
> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can give
> a comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of adding an
> approach certified GPS to the RV, but
>
> I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know what I don't know. I do
> know that the 430 is far more common,and the 480 seems to sell
> for less money in the used market. I've heard only two opinions
> comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said their choice
> was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an adequate
> sample size, so I'd like to get a bit more of a consensus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
--
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
*That* is a useful data point. I've been expecting for some time that
support to disappear for the 430, but I suppose that there are just too
many in service for Garmin to take the heat over dropping support.
Of course, at the rates they are charging, they've just about stopped
supporting *anything* they make.
It's time for the FAA to correct their rules for IFR GPS, and align them
with the rules for VHF nav & ILS (at least in homebuilts). If it works,
it's legal. That would open the door for us to use open-sourced
georeferenced plates in GRT, etc EFIS, just like is already legal with
non-TSO nav/ILS radios feeding the EFIS display. If a $500 GPS puck is
good enough for ADSB position, why isn't it good enough for IFR nav &
approaches (with current plates, of course)?
Charlie
On 5/13/2021 12:20 PM, James Quinn wrote:
> Don,
> Garmin dropped all maint/repair support for the 480 last year. May
> explain why costs are lower.
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 10:48 AM rd2 > wrote:
>
> Or its bigger brother GNX375, which adds an ADS-B (Out and In)
> x-ponder to the GPS175. Of course with GNX375 you get 2 equipment
> pieces out, if one fails and needs to go to the shop.
> I have found the GPS175/GNX375 leaning curve not steep and the
> touchscreen fine, even for aging eyes, despite the small dimensions.
> Rumen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name <mailto:art(at)zemon.name>>
> To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin
> GNS480 vs Garmin 430
>
> Charlie,
>
> I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out
> that unit.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England
> > wrote:
>
> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can
> give a comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of
> adding an approach certified GPS to the RV, but
>
> I'm 'not yet rated', so I truly don't know what I don't know.
> I do know that the 430 is far more common,and the 480 seems
> to sell for less money in the used market. I've heard only two
> opinions comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said
> their choice was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not
> an adequate sample size, so I'd like to get a bit more of a
> consensus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: opinions needed: Apollo/Garmin GNS480 vs Garmin |
430
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
That would likely explain the disparity of opinion. Also sounds like I'd
be better off with the 430, since I'll never (if ever) be a contributor
to controllers' heavy IFR work load. :-)
On 5/13/2021 12:15 PM, Sebastien wrote:
> Charlie,
>
> Your diametrically opposed opinions are both correct. The 480 has more
> functionality and is more complex but once you learn how to use it, it
> is easier for complex IFR. The 430 is much more simple and intuitive
> so much easier to pick up and use for simple flights and IFR procedures.
>
> The common problem with both is lack of support. The 430W is still
> supported by Garmin ... today. It might not be tomorrow.
>
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 7:47 AM Art Zemon > wrote:
>
> Charlie,
>
> I put a Garmin GPS175 into my plane to get the IFR GPS. Check out
> that unit.
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 9:11 AM Charlie England
> > wrote:
>
> Have any of you IFR flyers flown both the 430 & 480, and can
> give a comparison of the two? I'm toying with the idea of
> adding an approach certified GPS to the RV, but I'm 'not yet
> rated', so I truly don't know what I don't know. I do know
> that the 430 is far more common,and the 480 seems to sell for
> less money in the used market. I've heard only two opinions
> comparing the two; diametrically opposed. Each said their
> choice was far easier to use in an IFR environment. Not an
> adequate sample size, so I'd like to get a bit more of a
> consensus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>
>
>
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Contactor Questions |
| From: | "A Lumley" <andrew.lumley(at)sympatico.ca> |
Good afternoon,
I'm working on a schematic for my RV-10 based on the Z-101 architecture and have
come up with a couple questions about contactors...
First, about the starter contactor. The Z-101 shows a single conductor connecting
the contactor to the starter with a jumper at the starter. I found another
discussion from 2015 with an alternative arrangement (attached) for permanent
magnet starters. I'm planning to use a B&C starter. Should I be using the extra
wire & diode?
Second, I'm adding an external power outlet per Z-31A. I've made sense of most
of this drawing but I'm unsure why there is no diode shown across the coil in
the Z-31A diagram? The B&C continuous contactor includes an external diode already.
Should it be removed?
Thanks for taking the time to read my perhaps basic questions!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501905#501905
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/facdd36_721_432.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/z101_697.png
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> |
| Subject: | Re: Primary and B/U Alt Fields on Master Bus |
Bud,
I put everything on one bus except a couple of tiny loads which are
attached to a small always-on bus. Here are all of my wiring diagrams
.
March 01, 2021 - May 13, 2021
AeroElectric-Archive.digest.vol-qc