Allegro-Archive.digest.vol-ab
October 31, 2007 - November 30, 2008
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" : --------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an Allegro with the 80 HP Rotax
and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended pitch of 23.5 degrees at 7.875"
from the tip seems like it is way too much.
Tim:
I agree, the 23.5 degrees is too much. I went through a series of emails on the rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com back in October 2006 on this same subject. Go to that forum and look at the archived emails on the subject. I finally settled at 15 degrees which gave me 5100 rpm (static). If you ask Fantasy Air USA (Matt Smith) he will tell you they set all their props at 14 degrees. You will get various opinions on this subject, but 23.5 degres is certainly too much, and I believe every one will agree on that. At least I hope so!!
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net>:
--------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an
Allegro with the 80 HP Rotax and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended
pitch of 23.5 degrees at 7.875" from the tip seems like it is way too
much.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting |
Hugh,
I just got an email from the Australian Allegro/Woodcomp dealer and he
said that the blade pitch is measured at "1/3 of the blade length from
the tip". I thought it was customary to use the 75% blade span (ie. 1/4
of the blade length from the tip). So my question is what distance is
this 14 or 15 degrees measured at?
The following is the adjustment message I recieved from Michael Coats:
setting up the propeller is no big deal but it must be done properly.
forget the recommendations above, there is only one way to set the
propeller and the instructions follow. Please note I am the Woodcomp
certified service centre from Australia and New Zealand so I can tell
you with certainty that the following information is correct.
The correct distance the setting the blade measurement with just about
every propeller ever manufactured is ***one third*** of the blade length
in
from the blade tip. You will see in the attached photographs I have
made a very small T square which on the propeller I am using is 180 mm
long, yours will be similar.
In a pictures shown I am using a warp drive propeller protract which is
probably the most common unit out there, is extremely cheap (approximate
we $20) and will last a lifetime of normal use provided you don't drop
it and break it.
Step one, make sure the propeller blade is horizontal, if it is not
horizontal get it is close to horizontal is you can and using a piece of
wood or a broomstick or something like that marked the distance from the
propeller leading edge to the ground and make sure that all of the other
adjustments are made in this exact same position otherwise you will get
varying blade angles. So firstly to set the propeller horizontal and
then using the little T square position the propeller protract one third
of the way up the propeller and take your adjustment. We mainly have
cruise settings on our propeller and these follow below....
80hp 18 degrees
100 hp 21 degrees
If you want to get a bit more climb performance out of it I would
suggest initially going approximately 1 1/2 degrees finer pitch, so for
example on the 80 hp engine I would start at about 16.5=B0 or
thereabouts
than it is a simple matter of adjusting each of the three blades on the
propeller to get them all identical. Tighten up all the bolts and
recheck after everything has been tightened just to make sure that
nothing has moved. You can leave the propeller spinner off if you wish
and go for a fly making sure that the performance and blade angles suit
your needs. If you find your engine is over revving or you are using
too many revs to your desired cruise speed simply course in the
propeller up so go from 16.5=B0 to approximately 17.5=B0 and so on.
On most of these propellers 1=B0 of blade movement makes approximately
200
rpm difference as a general rule of thumb so if your aircraft is
readying 400 rpm too high then you can make a adjustment of 2=B0 to
bring
it back to the desired rpm. Please let me know if you have any
additional questions, kind regards Michael
--
With regards, Michael Coates
Company Director X-Air Australia
Gold Coast, Australia.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
To: allegro-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting
Tim:
I agree, the 23.5 degrees is too much. I went through a series of
emails on the rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com back in October 2006 on
this same subject. Go to that forum and look at the archived emails on
the subject. I finally settled at 15 degrees which gave me 5100 rpm
(static). If you ask Fantasy Air USA (Matt Smith) he will tell you they
set all their props at 14 degrees. You will get various opinions on this
subject, but 23.5 degres is certainly too much, and I believe every one
will agree on that. At least I hope so!!
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES"
: --------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an Allegro with the
80 HP Rotax and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended pitch of
23.5 degrees at 7.875" from the tip seems like it is way too much.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting |
Tim:
Who am I to question the Australian Authorized WoodComp Service Center! It is interesting
however to note that the Woodcomp Manual (at least the one I have)
shows that the pitch angle should be measured 60 mm from the blade tip. For a
1600 mm diameter propeller (800 mm blade length from center of hub) this is 92.5%
of the blade length. The little diagram shows that the blade pitch at this
point can vary from 6 degrees to 17 degrees. All this is meaningless! Remember,
the blade twist changes through out the length of the blade. I do not know
why most prop manufacturers use the 75% length, and neither do I know why Mr.
Coats uses 60% of the blade length (i.e 30% in from the blade tip). His procedure
for setting the pitch is correct and I fully agree with it, but why 30% in
from the tip vs. 25% in , I haven't a clue! Use either one, and then do your
static test runs and adjust the pitch to get the max static rpm you desire without
exceeding the Rotax limit.
I do know this, you will have to choose what pitch you want for the engine performance
you desire. Pitch angle is a trade off between high performance on climb
out vs. most efficient cruise speed in horizontal flight. You will have to
decide what you want, and set the pitch, do the static tests, and then fly the
plane and find out if it performs the way you want it to. In the air check the
cruise rpm at WOT. Hopefully you will be around 5500 rpm at WOT. If not come
back, land and adjust the prop pitch accordingly (lower pitch angle = better
climb out performance, higher pitch angle = better rpm cruise speed.
I will note that I had a difficult time adjusting the pitch on my Allegro (I used
the same method Mr. Coats described with the prop on the airplane). The blades
would not rotate smoothly in the hub with the bolts loosened. They would slip
and seize making it very difficult to get the bubble in the Warp drive protractor
exactly in the middle. Hope you don't have the same dificulty. I would
love to have a jig to do this on a level table rather than on the plane. Good
Luck.
Hugh McKay
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" : --------------
Hugh,
I just got an email from the Australian Allegro/Woodcomp dealer and he said that
the blade pitch is measured at "1/3 of the blade length from the tip". I thought
it was customary to use the 75% blade span (ie. 1/4 of the blade length
from the tip). So my question is what distance is this 14 or 15 degrees measured
at?
The following is the adjustment message I recieved from Michael Coats:
setting up the propeller is no big deal but it must be done properly.
forget the recommendations above, there is only one way to set the
propeller and the instructions follow. Please note I am the Woodcomp
certified service centre from Australia and New Zealand so I can tell
you with certainty that the following information is correct.
The correct distance the setting the blade measurement with just about
every propeller ever manufactured is ***one third*** of the blade length in
from the blade tip. You will see in the attached photographs I have
made a very small T square which on the propeller I am using is 180 mm
long, yours will be similar.
In a pictures shown I am using a warp drive propeller protract which is
probably the most common unit out there, is extremely cheap (approximate
we $20) and will last a lifetime of normal use provided you don't drop
it and break it.
Step one, make sure the propeller blade is horizontal, if it is not
horizontal get it is close to horizontal is you can and using a piece of
wood or a broomstick or something like that marked the distance from the
propeller leading edge to the ground and make sure that all of the other
adjustments are made in this exact same position otherwise you will get
varying blade angles. So firstly to set the propeller horizontal and
then using the little T square position the propeller protract one third
of the way up the propeller and take your adjustment. We mainly have
cruise settings on our propeller and these follow below....
80hp 18 degrees
100 hp 21 degrees
If you want to get a bit more climb performance out of it I would
suggest initially going approximately 1 1/2 degrees finer pitch, so for
example on the 80 hp engine I would start at about 16.5 or thereabouts
than it is a simple matter of adjusting each of the three blades on the
propeller to get them all identical. Tighten up all the bolts and
recheck after everything has been tightened just to make sure that
nothing has moved. You can leave the propeller spinner off if you wish
and go for a fly making sure that the performance and blade angles suit
your needs. If you find your engine is over revving or you are using
too many revs to your desired cruise speed simply course in the
propeller up so go from 16.5 to approximately 17.5 and so on.
On most of these propellers 1 of blade movement makes approximately 200
rpm difference as a general rule of thumb so if your aircraft is
readying 400 rpm too high then you can make a adjustment of 2 to bring
it back to the desired rpm. Please let me know if you have any
additional questions, kind regards Michael
--
With regards, Michael Coates
Company Director X-Air Australia
Gold Coast, Australia.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting
Tim:
I agree, the 23.5 degrees is too much. I went through a series of emails on the
rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com back in October 2006 on this same subject. Go
to that forum and look at the archived emails on the subject. I finally settled
at 15 degrees which gave me 5100 rpm (static). If you ask Fantasy Air USA (Matt
Smith) he will tell you they set all their props at 14 degrees. You will
get various opinions on this subject, but 23.5 degres is certainly too much, and
I believe every one will agree on that. At least I hope so!!
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" : --------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an Allegro with the 80 HP Rotax
and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended pitch of 23.5 degrees at 7.875"
from the tip seems like it is way too much.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Tim:
Who am I to question the Australian Authorized WoodComp Service Center! It is
interesting however to note that the Woodcomp Manual (at least the one I have)
shows that the pitch angle should be measured 60 mm from the blade tip. For
a 1600 mm diameter propeller (800 mm blade length from center of hub) this is
92.5% of the blade length. The little diagram shows that the blade pitch at this
point can vary from 6 degrees to 17 degrees. All this is meaningless! Remember,
the blade twist changes through out the length of the blade. I do not know
why most prop manufacturers use the 75% length, and neither do I know why Mr.
Coats uses 60% of the blade length (i.e 30% in from the blade tip). His procedure
for setting the pitch is correct and I fully agree with it, but why 30%
in from the tip vs. 25% in , I haven't a clue! Use either one, and then do your
static test runs and adjust the pitch to get the max static rpm you desire
without exceeding the Rotax limit.
I do know this, you will have to choose what pitch you want for the engine performance
you desire. Pitch angle is a trade off between high performance on
climb out vs. most efficient cruise speed in horizontal flight. You will have
to decide what you want, and set the pitch, do the static tests, and then fly
the plane and find out if it performs the way you want it to. In the air check
the cruise rpm at WOT. Hopefully you will be around 5500 rpm at WOT. If not come
back, land and adjust the prop pitch accordingly (lower pitch angle = better
climb out performance, higher pitch angle = better rpm cruise speed.
I will note that I had a difficult time adjusting the pitch on my Allegro (I
used the same method Mr. Coats described with the prop on the airplane). The
blades would not rotate smoothly in the hub with the bolts loosened. They would
slip and seize making it very difficult to get the bubble in the Warp drive
protractor exactly in the middle. Hope you don't have the same dificulty. I would
love to have a jig to do this on a level table rather than on the plane. Good
Luck.
Hugh McKay
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net>:
--------------
Hugh,
I just got an email from the Australian Allegro/Woodcomp
dealer and he said that the blade pitch is measured at "1/3 of the blade
length from the tip". I thought it was customary to use the 75% blade
span (ie. 1/4 of the blade length from the tip). So my question is what
distance is this 14 or 15 degrees measured at?
The following is the adjustment message I recieved
from Michael Coats:
setting up the propeller is no big deal but it must be done properly.
forget
the recommendations above, there is only one way to set the
propeller
and the instructions follow. Please note I am the Woodcomp
certified
service centre from Australia and New Zealand so I can tell
you with certainty
that the following information is correct.
The correct distance
the setting the blade measurement with just about
every propeller ever manufactured
is ***one third*** of the blade length in
from the blade tip.
You will see in the attached photographs I have
made a very small T
square which on the propeller I am using is 180 mm
long, yours will be similar.
In
a pictures shown I am using a warp drive propeller protract which
is
probably the most common unit out there, is extremely cheap (approximate
we $20) and will last a lifetime of normal use provided you don't drop
it and break it.
Step one, make sure th
e prop
eller blade is horizontal, if it is not
horizontal get it is close to horizontal
is you can and using a piece of
wood or a broomstick or something like
that marked the distance from the
propeller leading edge to the ground
and make sure that all of the other
adjustments are made in this exact same
position otherwise you will get
varying blade angles. So firstly to
set the propeller horizontal and
then using the little T square position
the propeller protract one third
of the way up the propeller and take your
adjustment. We mainly have
cruise settings on our propeller and these
follow below....
80hp 18 degrees
100 hp 21 degrees
If you want to get a bit more climb performance out of it I would
suggest
initially going approximately 1 1/2 degrees finer pitch, so for
example
on the 80 hp engine I would start at about 16.5 or thereabouts
than it
is a simple matter of adjusting each of the three bl
ades o
rtain
Tim
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp
Pitch setting
Tim:
I agree, the 23.5 degrees is too much. I went through a series of emails on the rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com back in October 2006 on this same subject. Go to that forum and look at the archived emails on the subject. I finally settled at 15 degrees which gave me 5100 rpm (static). If you ask Fantasy Air USA (Matt Smith) he will tell you they set all their props at 14 degrees. You will get various opinions on this subject, but 23.5 degres is certainly too much, and I believe every one will agree on that. At least I hope so!!
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net>:
--------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an
Allegro with the 80 HP Rotax and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended
pitch of 23.5 degrees at 7.875" from the tip seems like it is way too
much.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
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Subject: | November is Matronics Email List Fund Raiser Month! |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting |
Hugh,
I saw the Woodcomp adjustment instructions (mine said 50mm) and was also
surprised with their adjustment instructions. It looks like this
adjustment is not going to be a one shot deal. Also in practice the
16.2 ft/lbs of torque recommended by the Woodcomp manual on the M8 bolts
closes the hub gap completely and seems excessive.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
To: allegro-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting
Tim:
Who am I to question the Australian Authorized WoodComp Service
Center! It is interesting however to note that the Woodcomp Manual (at
least the one I have) shows that the pitch angle should be measured 60
mm from the blade tip. For a 1600 mm diameter propeller (800 mm blade
length from center of hub) this is 92.5% of the blade length. The little
diagram shows that the blade pitch at this point can vary from 6 degrees
to 17 degrees. All this is meaningless! Remember, the blade twist
changes through out the length of the blade. I do not know why most prop
manufacturers use the 75% length, and neither do I know why Mr. Coats
uses 60% of the blade length (i.e 30% in from the blade tip). His
procedure for setting the pitch is correct and I fully agree with it,
but why 30% in from the tip vs. 25% in , I haven't a clue! Use either
one, and then do your static test runs and adjust the pitch to get the
max static rpm you desire without exceeding the Rotax limit.
I do know this, you will have to choose what pitch you want for the
engine performance you desire. Pitch angle is a trade off between high
performance on climb out vs. most efficient cruise speed in horizontal
flight. You will have to decide what you want, and set the pitch, do the
static tests, and then fly the plane and find out if it performs the way
you want it to. In the air check the cruise rpm at WOT. Hopefully you
will be around 5500 rpm at WOT. If not come back, land and adjust the
prop pitch accordingly (lower pitch angle = better climb out
performance, higher pitch angle = better rpm cruise speed.
I will note that I had a difficult time adjusting the pitch on my
Allegro (I used the same method Mr. Coats described with the prop on the
airplane). The blades would not rotate smoothly in the hub with the
bolts loosened. They would slip and seize making it very difficult to
get the bubble in the Warp drive protractor exactly in the middle. Hope
you don't have the same dificulty. I would love to have a jig to do this
on a level table rather than on the plane. Good Luck.
Hugh McKay
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES"
: --------------
Hugh,
I just got an email from the Australian Allegro/Woodcomp dealer and
he said that the blade pitch is measured at "1/3 of the blade length
from the tip". I thought it was customary to use the 75% blade span
(ie. 1/4 of the blade length from the tip). So my question is what
distance is this 14 or 15 degrees measured at?
The following is the adjustment message I recieved from Michael
Coats:
setting up the propeller is no big deal but it must be done
properly.
forget the recommendations above, there is only one way to set the
propeller and the instructions follow. Please note I am the
Woodcomp
certified service centre from Australia and New Zealand so I can
tell
you with certainty that the following information is correct.
The correct distance the setting the blade measurement with just
about
every propeller ever manufactured is ***one third*** of the blade
length in
from the blade tip. You will see in the attached photographs I have
made a very small T square which on the propeller I am using is 180
mm
long, yours will be similar.
In a pictures shown I am using a warp drive propeller protract which
is
probably the most common unit out there, is extremely cheap
(approximate
we $20) and will last a lifetime of normal use provided you don't
drop
it and break it.
Step one, make sure th e prop eller blade is horizontal, if it is
not
horizontal get it is close to horizontal is you can and using a
piece of
wood or a broomstick or something like that marked the distance from
the
propeller leading edge to the ground and make sure that all of the
other
adjustments are made in this exact same position otherwise you will
get
varying blade angles. So firstly to set the propeller horizontal
and
then using the little T square position the propeller protract one
third
of the way up the propeller and take your adjustment. We mainly
have
cruise settings on our propeller and these follow below....
80hp 18 degrees
100 hp 21 degrees
If you want to get a bit more climb performance out of it I would
suggest initially going approximately 1 1/2 degrees finer pitch, so
for
example on the 80 hp engine I would start at about 16.5=B0 or
thereabouts
than it is a simple matter of adjusting each of the three bl ades o
rtain
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
To: allegro-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting
Tim:
I agree, the 23.5 degrees is too much. I went through a series of
emails on the rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com back in October 2006 on
this same subject. Go to that forum and look at the archived emails on
the subject. I finally settled at 15 degrees which gave me 5100 rpm
(static). If you ask Fantasy Air USA (Matt Smith) he will tell you they
set all their props at 14 degrees. You will get various opinions on this
subject, but 23.5 degres is certainly too much, and I believe every one
will agree on that. At least I hope so!!
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES"
: --------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an Allegro with
the 80 HP Rotax and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended pitch
of 23.5 degrees at 7.875" from the tip seems like it is way too much.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting |
Tim:
You are right, the adjustment will not be a one shot deal, unless you are very
lucky. My prop adjustments were three in number. I started out with 17.5 degrees
which gave me 4600 rpm (Static) at WOT. The second adjustment was 16.5 degrees
which gave me 4900 rpm (static) at WOT. The third adjustment was 15 degrees,
which gave me 5100 rpm (static) at WOT. That is where I chose to leave it.
My choice. Don't forget to track your prop before the static tests.
Hugh McKay
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" : --------------
Hugh,
I saw the Woodcomp adjustment instructions (mine said 50mm) and was also surprised
with their adjustment instructions. It looks like this adjustment is not
going to be a one shot deal. Also in practice the 16.2 ft/lbs of torque recommended
by the Woodcomp manual on the M8 bolts closes the hub gap completely and
seems excessive.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting
Tim:
Who am I to question the Australian Authorized WoodComp Service Center! It is interesting
however to note that the Woodcomp Manual (at least the one I have)
shows that the pitch angle should be measured 60 mm from the blade tip. For a
1600 mm diameter propeller (800 mm blade length from center of hub) this is 92.5%
of the blade length. The little diagram shows that the blade pitch at this
point can vary from 6 degrees to 17 degrees. All this is meaningless! Remember,
the blade twist changes through out the length of the blade. I do not know
why most prop manufacturers use the 75% length, and neither do I know why Mr.
Coats uses 60% of the blade length (i.e 30% in from the blade tip). His procedure
for setting the pitch is correct and I fully agree with it, but why 30% in
from the tip vs. 25% in , I haven't a clue! Use either one, and then do your
static test runs and adjust the pitch to get the max static rpm you desire without
exceeding the Rotax limit.
I do know this, you will have to choose what pitch you want for the engine performance
you desire. Pitch angle is a trade off between high performance on climb
out vs. most efficient cruise speed in horizontal flight. You will have to
decide what you want, and set the pitch, do the static tests, and then fly the
plane and find out if it performs the way you want it to. In the air check the
cruise rpm at WOT. Hopefully you will be around 5500 rpm at WOT. If not come
back, land and adjust the prop pitch accordingly (lower pitch angle = better
climb out performance, higher pitch angle = better rpm cruise speed.
I will note that I had a difficult time adjusting the pitch on my Allegro (I used
the same method Mr. Coats described with the prop on the airplane). The blades
would not rotate smoothly in the hub with the bolts loosened. They would slip
and seize making it very difficult to get the bubble in the Warp drive protractor
exactly in the middle. Hope you don't have the same dificulty. I would
love to have a jig to do this on a level table rather than on the plane. Good
Luck.
Hugh McKay
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" : --------------
Hugh,
I just got an email from the Australian Allegro/Woodcomp dealer and he said that
the blade pitch is measured at "1/3 of the blade length from the tip". I thought
it was customary to use the 75% blade span (ie. 1/4 of the blade length
from the tip). So my question is what distance is this 14 or 15 degrees measured
at?
The following is the adjustment message I recieved from Michael Coats:
setting up the propeller is no big deal but it must be done properly.
forget the recommendations above, there is only one way to set the
propeller and the instructions follow. Please note I am the Woodcomp
certified service centre from Australia and New Zealand so I can tell
you with certainty that the following information is correct.
The correct distance the setting the blade measurement with just about
every propeller ever manufactured is ***one third*** of the blade length in
from the blade tip. You will see in the attached photographs I have
made a very small T square which on the propeller I am using is 180 mm
long, yours will be similar.
In a pictures shown I am using a warp drive propeller protract which is
probably the most common unit out there, is extremely cheap (approximate
we $20) and will last a lifetime of normal use provided you don't drop
it and break it.
Step one, make sure th e prop eller blade is horizontal, if it is not
horizontal get it is close to horizontal is you can and using a piece of
wood or a broomstick or something like that marked the distance from the
propeller leading edge to the ground and make sure that all of the other
adjustments are made in this exact same position otherwise you will get
varying blade angles. So firstly to set the propeller horizontal and
then using the little T square position the propeller protract one third
of the way up the propeller and take your adjustment. We mainly have
cruise settings on our propeller and these follow below....
80hp 18 degrees
100 hp 21 degrees
If you want to get a bit more climb performance out of it I would
suggest initially going approximately 1 1/2 degrees finer pitch, so for
example on the 80 hp engine I would start at about 16.5 or thereabouts
than it is a simple matter of adjusting each of the three bl ades o rtain
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp Pitch setting
Tim:
I agree, the 23.5 degrees is too much. I went through a series of emails on the
rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com back in October 2006 on this same subject. Go
to that forum and look at the archived emails on the subject. I finally settled
at 15 degrees which gave me 5100 rpm (static). If you ask Fantasy Air USA (Matt
Smith) he will tell you they set all their props at 14 degrees. You will
get various opinions on this subject, but 23.5 degres is certainly too much, and
I believe every one will agree on that. At least I hope so!!
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" : --------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an Allegro with the 80 HP Rotax
and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended pitch of 23.5 degrees at 7.875"
from the tip seems like it is way too much.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Tim:
You are right, the adjustment will not be a one shot deal, unless you are very
lucky. My prop adjustments were three in number. I started out with 17.5 degrees
which gave me 4600 rpm (Static) at WOT. The second adjustment was 16.5 degrees
which gave me 4900 rpm (static) at WOT. The third adjustment was 15 degrees,
which gave me 5100 rpm (static) at WOT. That is where I chose to leave it.
My choice. Don't forget to track your prop before the static tests.
Hugh McKay
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net>:
--------------
Hugh,
I saw the Woodcomp adjustment instructions (mine said
50mm) and was also surprised with their adjustment instructions. It
looks like this adjustment is not going to be a one shot deal. Also in practice
the 16.2 ft/lbs of torque recommended by the Woodcomp manual on the
M8 bolts closes the hub gap completely and seems excessive.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp
Pitch setting
Tim:
Who am I to question the Australian Authorized WoodComp Service Center! It is
interesting however to note that the Woodcomp Manual (at least the one I have)
shows that the pitch angle should be measured 60 mm from the blade tip. For
a 1600 mm diameter propeller (800 mm blade length from center of hub) this is
92.5% of the blade length. The little diagram shows that the blade pitch at this
point can vary from 6 degrees to 17 degrees. All this is meaningless! Remember,
the blade twist changes through out the length of the blade. I do not know
why most prop manufacturers use the 75% length, and neither do I know why Mr.
Coats uses 60% of the blade length (i.e 30% in from the blade tip). His procedure
for setting the pitch is correct and I fully agree with it, but why 30%
in from the tip vs. 25% in , I haven't a clue! Use either one, and then do your
static test runs and adjust the pitch to get the max static rpm you desire
without exceeding the Rotax limit.
I do know this, you will have to choose what pitch you want for the engine performance
you desire. Pitch angle is a trade off between high performance on
climb out vs. most efficient cruise speed in horizontal flight. You will have
to decide what you want, and set the pitch, do the static tests, and then fly
the plane and find out if it performs the way you want it to. In the air check
the cruise rpm at WOT. Hopefully you will be around 5500 rpm at WOT. If not come
back, land and adjust the prop pitch accordingly (lower pitch angle = better
climb out performance, higher pitch angle = better rpm cruise speed.
I will note that I had a difficult time adjusting the pitch on my Allegro (I
used the same method Mr. Coats described with the prop on the airplane). The
blades would not rotate smoothly in the hub with the bolts loosened. They would
slip and seize making it very difficult to get the bubble in the Warp drive
protractor exactly in the middle. Hope you don't have the same dificulty. I would
love to have a jig to do this on a level table rather than on the plane. Good
Luck.
Hugh McKay
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net>:
--------------
Hugh,
I just got an email from the Australian Allegro/Woodcomp
dealer and he said that the blade pitch is measured at "1/3 of the blade
length from the tip". I thought it was customary to use the 75% blade
span (ie. 1/4 of the blade length from the tip). So my question is what
distance is this 14 or 15 degrees measured at?
The following is the adjustment message I recieved
from Michael Coats:
setting up the propeller is no big deal but it must be done properly.
forget
the recommendations above, there is only one way to set the
propeller
and the instructions follow. Please note I am the Woodcomp
certified
service centre from Australia and New Zealand so I can tell
you with certainty
that the following information is correct.
The correct distance
the setting the blade measurement with just about
every propeller ever manufactured
is ***one third*** of the blade length in
from the blade tip.
You will see in the attached photographs I have
made a very small T
square which on the propeller I am using is 180 mm
long, yours will be similar.
In
a pictures shown I am using a warp drive propeller protract which
is
probably the most common unit out there, is extremely cheap (approximate
we $20) and will last a lifetime of normal use provided you don't drop
it and break it.
Step one, make sure th
e pro
p eller blade is horizontal, if it is not
horizontal get it is close to horizontal
is you can and using a piece of
wood or a broomstick or something
like that marked the distance from the
propeller leading edge to the ground
and make sure that all of the other
adjustments are made in this exact same
position otherwise you will get
varying blade angles. So firstly
to set the propeller horizontal and
then using the little T square position
the propeller protract one third
of the way up the propeller and take your
adjustment. We mainly have
cruise settings on our propeller and
these follow below....
80hp 18 degrees
100 hp 21 degrees
If you want to get a bit more climb performance out of it I would
suggest
initially going approximately 1 1/2 degrees finer pitch, so for
example
on the 80 hp engine I would start at about 16.5 or thereabouts
than it
is a simple matter of adjusting each of the three
bl ade
s o rtain
Tim
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 80 HP Woodcomp
Pitch setting
Tim:
I agree, the 23.5 degrees is too much. I went through a series of emails on the rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com back in October 2006 on this same subject. Go to that forum and look at the archived emails on the subject. I finally settled at 15 degrees which gave me 5100 rpm (static). If you ask Fantasy Air USA (Matt Smith) he will tell you they set all their props at 14 degrees. You will get various opinions on this subject, but 23.5 degres is certainly too much, and I believe every one will agree on that. At least I hope so!!
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
WoodComp Three Blade (Klassic 160/3/R
N661WW
-------------- Original message from "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net>:
--------------
What would be a good pitch setting for climb on an
Allegro with the 80 HP Rotax and the Woodcomp prop? The previously reccomended
pitch of 23.5 degrees at 7.875" from the tip seems like it is way too
much.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Allegro-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "vertcnc" <petersen_t(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I was looking at the quick build kit, and was curious your feeling on how complete
it is. Besides the poor manual that I have read about here. I have no experience
in building airplanes, but good mechanical abilities. I have about 55hrs
flying the Allegro 2000 during Sp training and solo and was looking to move
forward. Does any one know how many Kits have been sold and flying in the US?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143523#143523
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amy Hackworth" <splashlanding(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Quick build Kit |
I have no idea how many kits have actually been sold in the U.S., but I
purchased mine almost two years ago at the Sebring, FL Sport Aviation Expo.
You may have read one of my prior messages about the state of the assembly
manual - it left MUCH to the imagination. Maybe by now some changes have
been made. I also had no plane building experience, but consider myself
fairly handy. Had it not been for an Allegro 2000 within flying distance to
use as a reference, I would have been pulling my hair out. As it turned
out, that plane got sold, so we spent quite a bit of time on the phone with
B-Bar-D and found some answers there. This was after photographing every
square inch of what we thought we might need to refer to later on.
The kit was mostly complete, but it was hard to tell this without a
thourough parts list. Many of my parts appeared to have been thrown
together at the last minute without being sorted by category (perhaps in an
effort to make a deadline?). We did have to bother B-Bar-D quite a few
times towards the end for parts that we didn't even know existed until we
got to that particular project. Once again, hopefully Allegro has remedied
this issue.
Now that my plane is completed, I must say that it's gorgeous and I'm glad
we built it. Don't hesitate to take on this project, but be prepared to put
lots more time than advertised into the building process (part of which is
simply "creative solution" time). We have another plane that we were able
to fly in the meantime, so we were still able to get in the air without
renting. Just some things to think about....
Dale Hackworth
Hobe Sound, FL
Allegro 2000
N306AD
----- Original Message -----
From: "vertcnc" <petersen_t(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 9:56 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Quick build Kit
>
> I was looking at the quick build kit, and was curious your feeling on how
> complete it is. Besides the poor manual that I have read about here. I
> have no experience in building airplanes, but good mechanical abilities. I
> have about 55hrs flying the Allegro 2000 during Sp training and solo and
> was looking to move forward. Does any one know how many Kits have been
> sold and flying in the US?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143523#143523
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. I've
got a bunch of really nice incentive gifts this year. There's really something
for everyone!
Please make a Contribution today:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick build Kit |
From: | "vertcnc" <petersen_t(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Thanks Dale,
There is three Allegro 2000 at the airport here that I fly out of, including the
one I have trained in. So I should have no problem filling in some of the blanks
left out in the manual. Did you find that they would deal at all on the price.
Tim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143797#143797
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amy Hackworth" <splashlanding(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Quick build Kit |
Tim,
The price of our kit was not negotiable, but who knows?, the dealer in your
area may be willing...
Did anyone else out there negotiate their kit price successfully?
Dale Hackworth
Hobe Sound, FL
Allegro 2000 Amphib
N306AD
----- Original Message -----
From: "vertcnc" <petersen_t(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 11:47 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Quick build Kit
>
> Thanks Dale,
>
> There is three Allegro 2000 at the airport here that I fly out of,
> including the one I have trained in. So I should have no problem filling
> in some of the blanks left out in the manual. Did you find that they would
> deal at all on the price.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143797#143797
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net |
Subject: | Re: Quick build Kit |
Just a note to let you know I agree fully with Dale and Amy Hackworth's reply to
your question. I have an Allegro 2000 that I built from the Quik-Build Kit,
and every thing Amy and Dale described happened to me. I will also tell you that
I got little to no support from the US Distributer, Fantasy Air USA. Their
main interest is in selling finished ready to fly airplanes, not supporting those
of us who want to build one from a kit. It took me two years to finish my
airplane, and if this forum had not existed I would have been in deep "yogurt",
if you know what I mean. The airplane is a wonderful LSA, and I love to fly
mine. It's performance is great, and I think it is one of the sharpest looking
LSAs out there. Just be prepared to have a lot of frustration during the building
process unless Fantasy Air in the Czech Republic has made a lot of changes,
and Fantasy Air USA has changed their ways, which I don't believe they have.
If you have any questions I can help you with, just
email
me and I will help you, and I am sure others on this forum will do the same.
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
-------------- Original message from "vertcnc" : --------------
>
> I was looking at the quick build kit, and was curious your feeling on how
> complete it is. Besides the poor manual that I have read about here. I have no
> experience in building airplanes, but good mechanical abilities. I have about
> 55hrs flying the Allegro 2000 during Sp training and solo and was looking to
> move forward. Does any one know how many Kits have been sold and flying in the
> US?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143523#143523
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Just a note to let you know I agree fully with Dale and Amy Hackworth's reply
to your question. I have an Allegro 2000 that I built from the Quik-Build Kit,
and every thing Amy and Dale described happened to me. I will also tell you
that I got little to no support from the US Distributer, Fantasy Air USA. Their
main interest is in selling finished ready to fly airplanes, not supporting
those of us who want to build one from a kit. It took me two years to finish
my airplane, and if this forum had not existed I would have been in deep "yogurt",
if you know what I mean. The airplane is a wonderful LSA, and I love to fly
mine. It's performance is great, and I think it is one of the sharpest looking
LSAs out there. Just be prepared to have a lot of frustration during the building
process unless Fantasy Air in the Czech Republic has made a lot of changes,
and Fantasy Air USA has changed their ways, which I don't believe they have.
If you have any questions I can help you with, j
ust em
ail me and I will help you, and I am sure others on this forum will do the same.
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
se the
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thom Riddle <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Quick build Kit |
Fellow Allegro flyers,
I agree with Hugh on his assessment of the situation. We were
fortunate to have purchased one already built and flown for 270 hours
so did not go through the trials of assembling a kit. However, since
ours is the oldest one in service in the USA we've been pioneers on
occasion with getting parts, finding alternate suppliers, and figuring
out how to make repairs.
So, unless a question or response is trul personal, please post all
questions/comments pertaining to Allegros to the list so we can all
benefit from all of our experiences. That is the purpose of this list
and as Hugh has said, its value increases the more we use it.
Thom in Buffalo
Allegro #03-202
N221FA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | What Listers Are Saying... |
November is Matronics List Fund Raiser month and a number people been sending some
really nice comments regarding the Lists. I thought I'd share a few below.
The Lists are completely supported by your Contributions. All of the bills for
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Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation of the List
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Quick build Kit |
From: | "vertcnc" <petersen_t(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Thanks for the information.
Tim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144690#144690
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | If You Got This Email, You Haven't Made A Contribution Yet! |
:-)
Dear Listers,
If you received this particular Matronics List Email message, its because you haven't
yet made a Contribution to support your Lists! Implemented for the first
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You heard that right. Once you make your Contribution, these support requests
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[Please note the following regarding the selective posting system. There are certain
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Post Mortem - Matronics List Pummeled By Spam... |
Dear Listers,
Over a 3-day period, Thursday 11/8 though Saturday 11/10, the Matronics Lists were
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The bad news was that it caused quite a back log of email messages starting Friday
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A check of the queues this morning, and everything looks like its working great
and there are no incoming filtering delays and spam levels appear to be back
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There were a number of people asking what was going on, so I thought that I'd send
out a follow up post mortem on the event...
November is the annual List Fund Raiser. Your contribution directly enables me
to buy systems like the Barracuda spam filter that keep the List free of that
garbage. Please make a contribution to support your Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | List of Contributors |
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
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Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
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I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
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Best regards,
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Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
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Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support the
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Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far
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Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! And pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000 Landing light |
What is the bulb used for the Allegro 2000 cowling and wing tip landing
lights?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000 Landing light |
Tim:
You should use Halogen bulbs. You may use any wattage you choose as long as
you do not overload the wiring used to feed the bulbs. I used two 12V 25W
open front, clear reflector halogen bulbs for the wing tip lights. You can
use open front bulbs for the wing tips because the wing tip lights are
enclosed in the plastic covers. For the cowling light I used a glass
enclosed 12V 50W clear halogen bulb. The wing tip bulbs each need to be
fiber glassed in-place in the wing tip mounting piece, and the 50W glass
halogen also fiber glassed in-place in the hole you will need to cut in the
cowling. The hole in the cowling needs to be slightly smaller than the rim
of the glass halogen bulb. Fit the bulb through the hole from the front, and
fiber glass it in-place on the back side using fiberglass power and resin.
Use the same technique for the wing tip lights. The female connectors for
the bulbs should be correctly matched to the bulbs and be ceramic connectors
because of the heat generated by the halogen bulbs. Don't use any other type
connector. I've had no problems with my installation.
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 7:32 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Allegro 2000 Landing light
What is the bulb used for the Allegro 2000 cowling and wing tip landing
lights?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000 Landing light |
Thanks Hugh.
I am replacing a bulb with a broken filliment in the wing tip light.
It was quite a chore to get the bulb out of the reflector. I could not
tell what wattage the existing bulb was due to the glue removing the
printing on the bulb.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Dear Listers,
Each year I like to explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also take the opportunity
to express why I think the List Services here provide a superior experience
over the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with running
a high performance email list site such as this one. With the annual support from
the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I have found I can run
the entire site without having to inflect any of the members with those annoying
banner ads flashing up all the time trying to sell little-blue-pills or other
garbage nobody wants or needs. From the comments I've received over the years
regarding the Lists, the great majority of the members really appreciate the
non-commercialism of my List systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once
a year during November to encourage members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer many benefits over
the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first feature I believe to
be significant is that you cannot receive a computer v*rus from any of these
Lists directly. Each incoming message is filtered and dangerous attachments stripped
off prior to posting. I also provide a Photo and File Share feature that
allows members to share files and bitmaps with other members and everyone can
be assured that these files will be prescanned for any sort of v*rus before
they are posted. More recently, I have enabled limited posting of a number of
file formats including pictures and PDFs.
Another very important feature of this system in my opinion is the extensive List
Archives that are available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives
go all the way back to the very beginning of each List and with the very
fast Search Engine, the huge size of some of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly
finding the data you're looking for.
And added just a couple of years ago is the new Email List Forum that allows members who prefer the Web BBS-style of List interaction. The beauty of the new List Forums is that they contain the exact same content that is distributed via email. Messages posted via email are cross-posted to the respective Forum and vice versa. The Forums also allow for another convenient method of sharing pictures and other files (http://forums.matronics.com ). Additionally, added recently is the List Wiki that allows members to build their own "Online List Encyclopedia" of sorts, documenting various aspects of their project for all to share ( http://wiki.matronics.com ).
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain since
about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew and who where also building
RVs. It has grown into nearly 70 different aviation-related Email Lists and
an associated web site that receives over 34,000,000 hits each year!! Additionally,
the List Email system forwarded well over 77,000 postings last year, accounting
for an unbelievable 33,000,000 (yes, that's 33 MILLION) email messages
delivered to Matronics List subscribers! I think there's a lot of value in supporting
a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and improving
a high quality service all _without any advertising budget_!
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows in the
quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email Message,
Search the Archives, use the List Browser, or surf the Forums and Wiki sites.
The Lists will be here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a
while for free, that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate,
and receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Fantasy Air Bankrupt ??? |
I just received the following email from a European distributor that I
had made parts inquires from.
Hi Timm
Can you pass this on to the maillist, just received this from the danish
distributor.
Dear dealer,
Please let us inform you that FANTASY AIR, s. r. o. was declared
bankrupt and ended it=B4s production to 9th of November 2007.
There is a possibility of revival of the FANTASY AIR, s. r. o.
production during next few months by taking over of some investor or
Allegro can be manufactured by other company, but no concrete word was
given till today.
We are very sorry for inconveniences caused by this situation and want
to thank you on behalf of FANTASY AIR, s. r. o. for cooperation history.
We will be back with more information about spare parts availability
etc. later.
Best regards,
Josef and Marcela
Brgds
Hans Norring
OY 9-259
Denmark.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thom Riddle <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fantasy Air Bankrupt ??? |
I just emailed Doug and Betty Hempstead asking for confirmation of
this. Will post response if/when I get one.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fantasy Air Bankrupt ??? |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
I just heard from Doug Hemptstead. He confirmed this, but stressed that there is
serious effort ongoing to solve the problems. I suggest patience and let's wait
to see how these efforts pan out.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147715#147715
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | What Are You Thankful For...? |
Dear Listers,
Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many
of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous
feasts of plenty and giving thanks for many blessings that have been bestowed
upon us.
Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are
for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the
assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists.
One of my favorite kind of comments is when write to me and says something like,
"Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!".
That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists. Its
always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning
to check my List email!!
Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for
their continued operation and upgrade?
The List Contribution Site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your kind consideration,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Below are a few more of the nice comments Listers have been making along with their
Contributions in support of the Lists this year. Please make your Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services.
Remember, there is _no advertising budget_ to keep these Lists funded. It is
solely through your generosity that they continue.
Please make a Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
------------------------------What Listers Are Saying------------------------------
The list has been invaluable in the building of my Zenith CH701.
George R
Thanks for keeping the lists a non-commercial venue for us
to gather and share knowledge.
Neal G
What a fantastic resource!
Ralph C
It's a pretty cheep troubleshooting tool with and unlimited
resource of personal knowledge.
Bruce G
A full house of Info & Ideas...
Ellery B
I really enjoy the Piet list.
Steven D
The Lists are an indispensable resource for those of us
building OBAM aircraft.
Bret S
..a great service.
Frank D
..all in all it is a great resource if you ask specific
questions.
Richard S
Your list has really helped me in my first build.
Michael W
Always a pleasure to support this great resource...
Richard W
I enjoy the lists very much, they are very beneficial.
Bob L
Great place to chat with other builders and Flyers.
Ellery B
Your lists are a great service to builders and owners!
Richard D
A real good place for someone that is starting to get
interested into flying without investing any money at
first.
Ellery B
The list has been an great help to my building process.
David B
I'm close to finishing my Zenith 601 thanks to you and
the Zenith List.
Jeff D
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published |
Dec 1!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, these Lists
seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical
your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all?
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] What are "The Lists" and Who's This Matt Dralle? |
Dear Listers,
Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in
the information technology industry for nearly 25 years primarily in computer
networking design and implementation. I have also done extensive work in web
development and CGI design during that time, along with some embedded system
development as well.
I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders
from around the world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds of aircraft
related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such
as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few.
For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers here
locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network
infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter,
a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business T1 Internet
connection with full static addressing.
The computer servers found here include a quad-processor Xeon Linux server for
List web services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system dedicated to the email processing
List functions, and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote storage
disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard drive-based
backup system with 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage! This entire system is protected
by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power supply (UPS) systems that
assure the Lists are available even during a local power outage! Speaking
of power, imagine how much electricity it takes to run all of these systems. One
month last Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for electricity alone!
I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power
feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer
Center for the Matronics Email Lists. Last year I added another rack to
house the MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't quite fit into the first
rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center before the addition
of the second rack:
http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg
As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to
providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister.
But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't
support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It is
supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you...
and YOU!
To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make
a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding
system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running!
Won't you please take a moment to make a Contribution to support these Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
There are some great gifts available with qualifying Contribution levels too!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Wow! A Ton of Comments! |
Dear Listers,
I've been getting a ton of great comments from Listers along with their List Support
Contributions lately! I've shared a bunch more below. Please read over
some of them and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums.
There are just a couple more days left before the official end of this year's Fund
Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade
and operation of these services.
There are still lots of awesome gifts available, so browse the extensive selection
and pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
----------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists -----------
In the big picture, you are most certainly saving lives.
The fact that you do it at a very good level of service,
quality, and simplicity is just icing on the cake. We
all owe you a debt of gratitude.
Bruce M
Can't go a single day without reading my lists. Even
when I am overseas.
Terry W
Best list ever. No comparison.
Johann J
I get the digest for the two lists I subscribe to each
morning -- they go great with my coffee! I can't tell
you how much I've learned from this great service...
Mark S
..great lists, best on the Net!
Robert S
It is very nice to enjoy a SPAM free list.
Ken L
You run a great list. Makes a builder feel like there's
lots of help out there for the asking, and it's
appreciated.
Steve T
The list is a very valuable resource.
Thomas S
You run a good list.
James G
Thanks for a great forum.
Jimmy Y
Thanks for a well-maintained list(s).
Michael M
Great job! Worth every penny!
Stephen T
Helps me learn and think about issues I didn't know I
didn't know.
Martin H
I find the list very useful...
Robert F
What you do provides me with daily contact with a passion
of my life, aviation.
Wendell M
..the list it is very valuable information.
Dwayne H
..a great service to homebuilders.
Andrew H
I have learned quite a lot from reading the Forums. I
have been reading at the forum pages and I like the way
it works.
Ron L
[The List] makes a builder feel like there's lots of
help out there for the asking, and it's appreciated.
Steve T
The list service many purposes, not the least of which is
motivation to join my fellow RVer in completing my project
and getting in the air.
John S
Thanks for running a great site. Its simplicity is its
greatness. Don't know how I would have been successful
without it.
Timothy F
..terrific service to experimental and general aviation.
James F
You have a well run operation. I am happy to support what
you do.
Mark S
A wonderful service to the GA community.
David M
Great list - let's keep it ad-free!
Ben C
They have been of great help, learning and friendship
for all the members Worldwide. Great job of yours, a
little idea that grew really big and wonderful.
Gary G
..a thoroughly enjoyable and informative List.
John W
A GREAT LEARNING TOOL!!
Dwayne Y
This is a very well-run list and it is a valuable resource
for the Pietenpol enthusiast.
Graham H
Thanks for running this great site - helps those of
us on the east of the pond keep in touch.
Malcolm H
Thanks for the major contribution to my continuing
education program.
Oldbob S
I'm just getting started in the building process & find
Matronics to be the most valuable site.
Scott D
Without the information and encouragement from the listers
my project would have been sitting in the corner of my shop
collecting dust long ago. Now it's almost ready for final
assemble and covering.
Edward G
Great List. No Ads, just RV-10 builders. Keep it
going.
Rick E
Wonderful source of info for building & flying...
Graham H
The Yak-list is a superb single source to get answers to
questions on the operation of these aircraft.
Craig W
This list is valuable to everyone and your hard work is
very much appreciated.
Jim S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Just Two Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a couple days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. Over all,
participation has been good, but things have been pretty slow this week for some
reason. If you've been putting off making your Contribution until the last
minute, this is it! The last minute, that is... :-)
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means a couple of things. Its my 44th birthday for
one, but I'm trying to forget about that... But, it also means that its that
last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser!
If you been drooling over one of the really sweet free gifts that are available
this year with a qualifying Contribution, then now is the time to jump on one!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution, but just keep putting it off, then
now is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists! Rather than the guy that,
er, ah, forgot (or whatever)... :-)
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so far this
year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation
a float and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone will feel the same.
The List Contribution page is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | oil thermostat installation |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
A few days ago, Hugh McKay emailed to remind me that I had not posted photos of
the oil thermostat we installed on our Allegro. I apologize for this oversight.
After receiving Hugh's gentle reminder, I went to the hangar to take photos
of the oil thermostat. Unfortunately, I only got two photos of questionable quality,
before my batteries died. I did not even have enough battery juice to
see if they came out okay until I got back home.
I hope the attached photos will help those of you who have not figured a good location
for the oil thermostat. If you download the photos you should be able
to zoom in to see pretty good detail because they are 2 megapixel photos if Matt's
software does not reduce them. If more or better photos are needed I'll take
some more. Notice that you don't see the gearbox. We have it off doing the
required periodic inspection.
This may not be the only location possible but it works well. Be sure to make certain
that you don't have any kinks in the hoses. The hose arrangement appears
a bit convoluted but the flow directions required it. It was a bit of a hassle
to get it located just right so there were no hose kinks and it cleared all
potential interference points but was worth the effort.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150443#150443
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00427_282.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00426_108.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | oil thermostat installation |
Thom:
The photos were fine. However, from the pictures it was hard to determine
the schematic of the whole interconnected oil system (i.e. which hose is
"flow in", "flow out", and which hose is connected to the "in" and "out" of
the oil cooler. Could you post a one line schematic of the oil system
showing the thermostat and which hose connects to what?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 5:31 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: oil thermostat installation
A few days ago, Hugh McKay emailed to remind me that I had not posted photos
of the oil thermostat we installed on our Allegro. I apologize for this
oversight. After receiving Hugh's gentle reminder, I went to the hangar to
take photos of the oil thermostat. Unfortunately, I only got two photos of
questionable quality, before my batteries died. I did not even have enough
battery juice to see if they came out okay until I got back home.
I hope the attached photos will help those of you who have not figured a
good location for the oil thermostat. If you download the photos you should
be able to zoom in to see pretty good detail because they are 2 megapixel
photos if Matt's software does not reduce them. If more or better photos are
needed I'll take some more. Notice that you don't see the gearbox. We have
it off doing the required periodic inspection.
This may not be the only location possible but it works well. Be sure to
make certain that you don't have any kinks in the hoses. The hose
arrangement appears a bit convoluted but the flow directions required it. It
was a bit of a hassle to get it located just right so there were no hose
kinks and it cleared all potential interference points but was worth the
effort.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally
disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150443#150443
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00427_282.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00426_108.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
The primary purpose of the photos I took was to show where it will fit on an Allegro.
There is no way to get photos showing schematically how it is hooked up.
The oil thermostat has the ports marked and if my memory is correct, the installation
instructions included with the part were pretty clear. Also, I think there
is some Rotax documentation that shows where schematically where to install
the oil thermostat. If you don't find what you are looking for in this regard,
let me know and I'll dig it out from my archives.
I know that the C1 and C2 ports are connected to the two oil cooler ports. What
I don't remember and can't tell from the photo is where the E ports connect into
the system. I'm sure I knew the correct location schematically when we installed
it two winters ago but would have to look again at our installation to
be sure of how we did. I won't be going back to the hangar until next week. When
I do I'll make notes of the connection schematic and post it afterwards.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150630#150630
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
Thom:
Many thanks for your assistance!
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 3:38 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: oil thermostat installation
The primary purpose of the photos I took was to show where it will fit on an
Allegro. There is no way to get photos showing schematically how it is
hooked up.
The oil thermostat has the ports marked and if my memory is correct, the
installation instructions included with the part were pretty clear. Also, I
think there is some Rotax documentation that shows where schematically where
to install the oil thermostat. If you don't find what you are looking for in
this regard, let me know and I'll dig it out from my archives.
I know that the C1 and C2 ports are connected to the two oil cooler ports.
What I don't remember and can't tell from the photo is where the E ports
connect into the system. I'm sure I knew the correct location schematically
when we installed it two winters ago but would have to look again at our
installation to be sure of how we did. I won't be going back to the hangar
until next week. When I do I'll make notes of the connection schematic and
post it afterwards.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally
disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150630#150630
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Matronics List Fund Raiser - 2007 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists
this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding
the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor
of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser underscores the great sentiments
people have made regarding the Lists.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please
feel free to do so. The great List Fund Raiser gifts will be available on
the Contribution site for just a little while longer, so hurry and make your
Contribution and get your great gift! Once again, the URL for the Contribution
web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of discounted merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2007 List of Contributors current
as of 12/6/07! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough
for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK YOU!
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2007.html
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have
everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped
via US Postal Service.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Upon finishing the gearbox inspection yesterday, I checked the connections to the
Perma-Coll oil thermostat. The connections are thus:
C1 and C2 connect to the oil cooler, flow direction irrelevant.
E1 connects to "OUT" port on the oil sump(tank).
E2 connects to the inlet side of the oil pump.
So, the oil flows from the sump(tank) to the E1 port on the oil thermostat, and
then through the thermostat and oil cooler at variying ratios depending upon
temperature, then to the suction side of the oil pump via port E2 on the Perma-Cool.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151292#151292
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
Thom:
Thanks again for the clarification.
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 10:02 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: oil thermostat installation
Upon finishing the gearbox inspection yesterday, I checked the connections
to the Perma-Coll oil thermostat. The connections are thus:
C1 and C2 connect to the oil cooler, flow direction irrelevant.
E1 connects to "OUT" port on the oil sump(tank).
E2 connects to the inlet side of the oil pump.
So, the oil flows from the sump(tank) to the E1 port on the oil thermostat,
and then through the thermostat and oil cooler at variying ratios depending
upon temperature, then to the suction side of the oil pump via port E2 on
the Perma-Cool.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally
disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151292#151292
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
Thom:
When installing the oil thermostat on the 912 UL engine in a location
similar to the installation on your Allegro, does one have to vent the oil
system per the Rotax instructions since the hoses have been cut and
rearranged (i.e. has air now gotten into the oil system flow path requiring
venting the system)?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 1:17 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Re: oil thermostat installation
Thom:
Thanks again for the clarification.
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 10:02 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: oil thermostat installation
Upon finishing the gearbox inspection yesterday, I checked the connections
to the Perma-Coll oil thermostat. The connections are thus:
C1 and C2 connect to the oil cooler, flow direction irrelevant.
E1 connects to "OUT" port on the oil sump(tank).
E2 connects to the inlet side of the oil pump.
So, the oil flows from the sump(tank) to the E1 port on the oil thermostat,
and then through the thermostat and oil cooler at variying ratios depending
upon temperature, then to the suction side of the oil pump via port E2 on
the Perma-Cool.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally
disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151292#151292
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
When we installed our oil thermostat, we removed the oil hoses from the cooler
end and elevated and tied off the end from the sump (tank) to keep from draining
out the oil. We turned the 90 degree fitting on the oil pump inlet up for the
same reason. The oil cooler inlet and outlet are at the top so oil loss from
the cooler was not an issue. With the new hoses connected to the oil thermostat
and oil cooler inlet and outlet, we filled the oil thermostat and hoses and
then made the final hose connections with them full. Doing it this way, we were
able to prevent introduction of excess air into the oil system which precluded
the need to purge the oil system. Our efforts paid off as we had normal oil
pressure within 3 seconds of initial startup after installation was completed.
Note that since the Perma-Cool oil thermostat never closes off the oil cooler part
of the circuit completely there need be no "air pocket" in the thermostat.
When filling it SLOWLY with the hoses attached and the ends at high points allowing
air to escape, the system should not have any air in it when making the
final connections.
If you do introduce air into the system then you should definitely purge the system
per Rotax instructions.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152311#152311
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
Thom:
This term "introducing air into the system" relative to the oil system has
always bothered me. Do you not introduce air into the system every time you
change oil (i.e when you drain the oil tank and change the filter)?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:21 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: oil thermostat installation
Hugh,
When we installed our oil thermostat, we removed the oil hoses from the
cooler end and elevated and tied off the end from the sump (tank) to keep
from draining out the oil. We turned the 90 degree fitting on the oil pump
inlet up for the same reason. The oil cooler inlet and outlet are at the top
so oil loss from the cooler was not an issue. With the new hoses connected
to the oil thermostat and oil cooler inlet and outlet, we filled the oil
thermostat and hoses and then made the final hose connections with them
full. Doing it this way, we were able to prevent introduction of excess air
into the oil system which precluded the need to purge the oil system. Our
efforts paid off as we had normal oil pressure within 3 seconds of initial
startup after installation was completed.
Note that since the Perma-Cool oil thermostat never closes off the oil
cooler part of the circuit completely there need be no "air pocket" in the
thermostat. When filling it SLOWLY with the hoses attached and the ends at
high points allowing air to escape, the system should not have any air in it
when making the final connections.
If you do introduce air into the system then you should definitely purge the
system per Rotax instructions.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally
disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152311#152311
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: oil thermostat installation |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
Not really because draining the oil from the sump empties only that oil. The oil
that is still in the oil passageways and the cooler and hoses (and now the thermostat)
remains in place, unless you break the hose connections. That is why
after you change your oil and run the engine, you see that the oil is not perfectly
clear. Some old oil stays in the system.
It is a good idea to fill the new oil filter to just below half way when installing
it to reduce the amount of air to a minimum. Anymore than half full and a
lot will spill out when screwing it in. The air that goes in there is downstream
of the pump (so the pump does not cavitate) and it finds its way out very
quickly in the space under the valve covers after passing the rocker arms.
It is also a good idea when changing the oil to "burp" the system before draining
in order to get as much of the oil as possible into the sump before draining.
If you don't know how to "burp" the oil system, let me know and I'll explain
it. Pretty simple process which should be done before checking the oil level
too, to make sure your reading is correct.
--------
Thom in Buffalo
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Finance is the art of passing money from hand to hand until it finally disappears.
- Robert W. Sarnoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152359#152359
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Electric Flaps - Incident |
Everyone,
The other day as I and my instructor were flying my Allegro 2000, we had an
incident with the electric flap drive that I felt was worth sharing. Having
made a short flight (10 miles) to a different field, landed, and taken back
off, I had returned to my home field and landed, and taken off twice and was
landing the third time when the plane began to behave very differently on
final. I made the landing alright although it probably was not very pretty.
After we came to a stop my instructor and I looked at each other and we
agreed on "let's try that again".
Well, as I began my pre-takeoff checks and got to the point where I set the
flaps to take off position, I looked out the window as I turned the switch
to position 1, and the flaps did not move. They were in position "0". I
tried again and they did not move. I then noticed the flaps breaker on the
panel was tripped. I reset the breaker and tried again, and the breaker
tripped. Well that ended that days flying.
After returning to the hanger I checked the flap servomotor drive, and limit
switches. As I removed the protective cover I saw the drive was at the top
position, and the spring loaded metal trip plate was at the top micro switch
and slightly to the side. It was enough for the trip plate to miss the
switch. Some how the Potter & Brumfield breaker tripped the circuit before
the drive motor drove the vertical rod any farther. I was able to get the
motor to re-position the drive to position "1". The trip plate was still in
its original position on the worm gear drive unit, and tight. After trying
all three positions again I noticed that each time the flap switch was
activated and the motor torque began to drive the worm gear, the whole worm
gear drive rotated a slight amount. I knew about this earlier when setting
up the flap drive. In fact, I had earlier shimmed (with washers) the upper
forked end of the vertical flap rod where it fits over the bearing of the
flap lever to take the rotational play (there is some unless you shim it)
out of the rod. The shims were still in place and the rod was tight.
However, when I activated the drive I noticed some slight rotation of the
worm gear drive unit (the red cylinder) before the vertical movement began.
This occurred in the up and down direction. This slight rotation combined
with the narrow width of the spring loaded metal trip plate had allowed the
trip plate to rotate enough to slightly miss the micro switch. I don't know
why this rotational movement is occurring in the worm gear drive unit, other
than normal play between the gear drive and the worm gear.
To correct this problem I have fabricated a small metal piece that I have
riveted on the end of the metal trip plate that is wider than the original
trip plate width. This wider piece takes into account the slight rotation
that is occurring and assures that the micro switches do come in contact
with the trip plate, and properly trip the drive unit. Also, if one had to
replace one of these micro switches, does anyone know what brand, type,
model Number, etc., they are? Each of you might want to check your drive
units to see if you are getting this same type rotation (or play), and
determine if it could be a problem in the future. If any one is interested I
can post a photograph of the "fix".
Hugh McKay in NC
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amy Hackworth" <splashlanding(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Micro switch replacement parts |
Hey Hugh,
Dale & I had the same problem with the switch plate missing the micro
switch. Fortunately, we learned of this problem before the plane was
even airworthy. Dale also has shimmed the upper bearing (hopefully
enough).
In our case, the micro switch broke and we were really concerned about
waiting for another to arrive from Czech Republic. After some research,
we found a place in California called All Electronics. They were very
accommodating and we received our part here in Florida within a couple
of days.
Here is the info: All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA
1-800-826-5432
www.allelectronics.com
Item #SMS-219 SPDT Mini Snap Action Switch w/
Roller Lever $1.30 each (shipping & handling was $7)
We had given this information to B-Bar-D Aviation some time back, so
they may have some in stock.
Best Wishes,
Amy & Dale Hackworth
Allegro Amphib 306AD
(now has 20 hours on the Hobbs!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Micro switch replacement parts |
Amy/Dale:
Thanks so much for the info on where to get the switches. Did your switch
fit exactly in the same location as the old one without problems?
Hugh
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Amy Hackworth
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Micro switch replacement parts
Hey Hugh,
Dale & I had the same problem with the switch plate missing the micro
switch. Fortunately, we learned of this problem before the plane was even
airworthy. Dale also has shimmed the upper bearing (hopefully enough).
In our case, the micro switch broke and we were really concerned about
waiting for another to arrive from Czech Republic. After some research, we
found a place in California called All Electronics. They were very
accommodating and we received our part here in Florida within a couple of
days.
Here is the info: All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA
1-800-826-5432
www.allelectronics.com
Item #SMS-219 SPDT Mini Snap Action Switch w/
Roller Lever $1.30 each (shipping & handling was $7)
We had given this information to B-Bar-D Aviation some time back, so they
may have some in stock.
Best Wishes,
Amy & Dale Hackworth
Allegro Amphib 306AD
(now has 20 hours on the Hobbs!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Threadcharmer(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Micro switch size |
Hugh,
The switch was exactly the same size, just a different color. We were really
pleased that the repair was so simple.
Amy & Dale Hackworth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000 stall warning system |
All:
When I bought my Allegro 2000 QBuilt Kit in 2004 I purchased the Fantasy Air
stall warning system with the kit, but never did, haven't yet, and probably
never will received the electronic device/audible alarm module. The wing
came with the port, the tubing, and pressure switch which interfaces with
the audible electronic module. I also have, and installed the correct ASI,
that has an electrical connector and three pneumatic ports, which are used
with the system. All of the pneumatic system and the pressure switch is
plumbed and connected, and I am flying the plane. All I need is the
electronic audible module that mounts behind the panel that connects to the
system pressure switch, and ASI. Does anyone out there have one of these
electronic audible modules that they are not using, or does any one know the
manufacturer and source of the device, and how one could acquire one? Or, is
there any one out there familiar enough with the device (electronically)
such that I could have one made that would work on the Allegro? It can't be
too, too complicated. Can anyone help me, or am I just stuck with a
partially completed system?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Stall Warning System |
Gentlemen:
While building my Allegro 2000 I never did get the electronic horn module
and LED that mounts on and behind the instrument panel. I received
everything else (pressure switch, special ASI, wing with pressure port, and
all the necessary pneumatic tubing). I installed all of this on the plane
hoping that I would eventually receive the electronic module. It never came.
The assembly manual from Fantasy Air only had a simple diagram of the device
(on page 127in my manual) showing how it is connected to the ASI and
pressure switch. No other information written or otherwise was given. I have
since been able to get some information As well as some photographs of this
item. It looks to be very simple, so I have decided to simply build one
myself and install it. The device consists of a 12V circuit board with 6
terminal connections, a two color (red/green) LED on lead wires that will go
to the point on the panel where the LED will be mounted, two buzzers, a SPDT
12V relay, and a 697 ohm resistor, all being connected electrically to the
special ASI and pneumatic pressure switch which is already installed in my
aircraft. If any of you have this system in your aircraft, can you describe
to me how your stall warning system actually works while on the ground and
in flight (i.e. the sequence of visual and audible events that occur as you
take off, land, approach stall speed, and when you reach stall speed? This
will help me understand the logic of the system. I have heard from one
person who has the system that his LED is red only, and not a two color
(green-red) LED. If there is anyone out there that has additional
information that would help me understand this system and how it works I
would deeply appreciate the input. I don't want to go to the effort to build
something that is not going to work.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
912UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Fine Fuel Filter |
Gentlemen:
On page 38 of the Rotax 912UL engine installation manual, figure 22 shows
that a fine fuel filter (mesh size 0.1 mm) must be installed upstream of the
mechanical fuel pump. I assume this is the bowl/filter unit that protrudes
out of the belly of the plane that is installed between the fuel tank and
electric fuel pump. My question is how often does this "filter" have to be
checked, and since I have never opened the filter unit what type filter is
it, and can it be easily replaced if contaminated?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
912UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fine Fuel Filter |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
The nylon/plastic mesh filter in the little plastic bowl just downstream of the
tank is Fantasy Air's idea of a gascolator. In the US it is customary and common
practice for the gascolator to have a quick drain in the bottom of the bowl
which is drained before each flight to eliminate sediment and water. Fantasy
Air's gascolator does not have a drain valve. On most type certificated aircraft
in the US, the gascolator is located on the engine side of the firewall. Also,
it is a real PITA to clean because there is no shut-off valve between it
and the tank. Therefore, to clean it you must drain the fuel tank then disassemble
the gascolator. The good news is that you never need to replace the mesh
filter element unless it gets perforated. If you are careful with it, it should
last pretty much forever. I've complained about this deficiency and hope that
they have corrected this on the newer 2007 models.
Because of the difficulty, we clean it only during annual inspection or when we
need to drain the tank for other reasons. I got permission from Fantasy Air to
replace this gascolator with one with a drain valve, even if it is not a PMA's
part. This permission is required on an SLSA but not on an ELSA or Exp A/B
certificated airplane. I found a good quality relatively inexpensive gascolator
with drain valve at Great Plains Aircraft. Unfortunately it won't fit in the
space available so we've not yet installed it. We're still thinking about how/where
to locate it. The next best solution is to install a shut-off valve between
the tank and gascolator to preclude the need to drain the tank, but it is
still a bit difficult to remove the bowl and and re-install it after cleaning.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if I
have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
- Buddha
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158269#158269
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Allegro 2000 for SALE |
From: | "parahawk" <alfi98596(at)yahoo.com> |
2007 Allegro 2000 TT93 for Sale in Western Washington State.
Details and lots of pictures at:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562607790DhruYv
--------
Flying is the highest form of life on earth.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166211#166211
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000 for SALE |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
I clicked on the link and saw a lot of photos. Where are the details?
engine, ELSA, Exp A/B, SLSA, equipment list, actual empty weight, etc.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if I
have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
- Buddha
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166302#166302
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Carpenter <n3081x(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000 for SALE |
Thom
The first picture has the details....
This airplane was sold in Mesa at Falcon field where I did my training...I wounder
why he is selling??
Brian n3081x
Thom Riddle wrote:
I clicked on the link and saw a lot of photos. Where are the details?
engine, ELSA, Exp A/B, SLSA, equipment list, actual empty weight, etc.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if I
have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
- Buddha
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166302#166302
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000 for SALE |
From: | "parahawk" <alfi98596(at)yahoo.com> |
For the curious: I am selling because I need the money to finance a business project
in summer. I am very sorry to have to let it go. I had a fabulous time
with it and in it but for now I have to suffice with renting or an inexpensive
Ultralight .
--------
Flying is the highest form of life on earth.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166425#166425
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
If any of you need your gearbox done under the Rotax recall, I am in Tucson Az.
and based out of Ryan Airfield. No cost to you if you fly in and only shipping
if you send it to me. Shipping is cheap. If you fly in I have a 2.5 hr. turn
around and your on your way. If you ship it I have a 1 day turn around. I am
an authorized and newly certified Rotax service center under their new certification
program with 7 years of Rotax experience. Let me know. I have a number
of gearboxes coming in so let me know so I can make sure I have enough gearboxes
on hand.
By the end of May I will be a full blown one stop shop for all your needs. Inspections,
service (airframe and engine, dynamic prop balancing, ect..) I'm quick
and very thorough. I specialize in LSA's and Rotax 912's, but will do experimental,
too. I have a Flight Design CT myself and have many happy clients.
If you have never had your prop checked for blade pitch you should and I very highly
recommend a dynamic balance as most LSA are out of balance. If you prop
needs adjusting we can do that in short order. Hopefully your WOT rpm is around
5500rpm. You don't see many props from the MFG in balance or that has some time
on it and this can be attributed to a number of reasons. I started doing them
because I found my CT was out and have seen most other LSA's out of balance
and finding someone to do a good dynamic balance is a challange. It is good
to do for the health of your engine and components. If you can feel it in the
stick it is way out and most times you can't feel it at all, but it is still out
of balance.
You can always find me or my articles on the ctflyer.com website or on the Matronics
Rotax engine web site.
email: ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168033#168033
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Does any one know the current Bankruptcy status of Fantasy Air s.r.o. (Czech
Republic), and Fantasy Air USA (Doug Hempsted and Company)?
Hugh McKay
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Threadcharmer(at)cs.com |
Hugh,
Dale & I ran into Matt at the Sebring Expo. According to him, they are alive and
well. Evidently, the company had bought some airport property (or an entire
airport, I can't remember the details) and had to get rid of that to come up
with some more operating capital. Supposedly, Fantasy Air is still getting shipments
from the Czechs and it's business as usual.
Amy & Dale Hackworth
2006 Allegro 2000 on Shark amphib floats
wrote:
>
>Does any one know the current Bankruptcy status of Fantasy Air s.r.o. (Czech
>Republic), and Fantasy Air USA (Doug Hempsted and Company)?
>
>
>
>Hugh McKay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Gearbox recall |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
5 gear sets due this week and all are spoken for. Anyone else let me know this
weekend and I can get some others added to the order for Monday morning.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168473#168473
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Dale /Amy:
Thanks for your update. What is Matt's last name? I spoke to him twice while
building my 2000 and he was very helpful. Is he still with Fantasy Air USA?
Do you know how to reach him by email?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Threadcharmer(at)cs.com
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Fantasy Air USA
Hugh,
Dale & I ran into Matt at the Sebring Expo. According to him, they are
alive and well. Evidently, the company had bought some airport property (or
an entire airport, I can't remember the details) and had to get rid of that
to come up with some more operating capital. Supposedly, Fantasy Air is
still getting shipments from the Czechs and it's business as usual.
Amy & Dale Hackworth
2006 Allegro 2000 on Shark amphib floats
wrote:
>
>Does any one know the current Bankruptcy status of Fantasy Air s.r.o.
(Czech
>Republic), and Fantasy Air USA (Doug Hempsted and Company)?
>
>
>
>Hugh McKay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thom Riddle <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fantasy Air USAFantasy Air USA |
Hugh,
Matt's last name is Smith. His email is
service@b-bar-daviation.com
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Two New Lists Added to the Matronics Lineup! |
Dear Listers,
I've added two new Email Lists to the Matronics List and Forum lineup today. These
include the Rans-List and RV12-List. Please surf over to the Matronics List
Subscription page and sign up for these new Lists if they are of interest
to you:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Full support on the Forums, List Browse, Archives, etc. is available.
Rans-List:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rans-List
RV12-List
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV12-List
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Conditional inspection |
From: | "Bernhard10" <tiloxy(at)gmail.com> |
Does anybody have a checklist for my annual conditional inspection which is due
now. SLSA
I want to avoid high costs from my local AP doing a regular annual inspection for
GA aircraft. I am the only SLSA on our airport and nobody seems to know the
difference between conditional inspections for LSA and annual inspections for
GA aircraft
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174443#174443
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Conditional inspection |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Your Check and Maintenance Manual contains a list of the items that must be checked
at 50/100/etc hour intervals. If your Allegro is certificated as SLSA these
checks must be done to stay in compliance. At an annual condition inspection,
you must complete everything on the 100 hr interval list as a minimum. If the
aircraft has gone over or is very close to 200 hours this list must be completed
too; same for when passing or getting very close to the 400 (200 x2) or
500 hour mark at the time of the annual condition inspection is due.
Thom Riddle
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174549#174549
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | nose gear shimmy |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
For the first time ever, I had a bit of nose gear shimmy after landing. Our Allegro
is the oldest one in the USA so perhaps no one else has yet experienced this.
Ours has 565 hours on it. Upon inspecting, I found the "drawbar attachment
bearing" allowing a little fore/aft movement. Ours is factory built so I've
not had to install or remove this part which is referred to as "store number"
06-03 and "catalogue number" 6001260 in my assembly manual.
My questions:
1) Have you had any nose gear shimmy?
2) If so, was this the cause or was it something else?
3) For those who built their Allegro, what is involved in removing the old one
and installing the new part? It looks like removing the fork and the lower "spacer"
will allow it to be slid off the nose gear tube.
4) I've asked B Bar D for price and availability but have not hear back from them
yet.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if I
have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
- Buddha
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177996#177996
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nosegearparts_143.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | RE: Allegro-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/20/08 |
Thom:
I have no shimmy in my front gear. Removing the draw bar is very simple.
Remove the 8 mm castellated nut and remove the 8 mm bolt. The forked end of
the draw bar should slide down off of its attachment (draw bar attachment
bearing) which is permanently attached to the nose gear aluminum pipe. Then
you can remove the steel pin from the back grasp fork and remove the bar
itself.
As you know I built my Allegro 2000 (Model year 2004). I am quite familiar
with the subject "draw bar". My draw bar came factory assembled, ready to
install. In the process of installing the front landing gear (which also
came fully assembled) and the back grasp fork which is field riveted and
fiber glassed on to the belly of the fuselage by the builder, I got some of
my measurements slightly off and had to slightly lengthen the draw bar
assembly.
This required me to purchase a new steel tube (7/8"x0.065", 4130 Alloy round
seamless steel tubing, MIL-T-6736 Normalized and annealed) slightly longer
than necessary, make field measurements, and cut the tube to the correct
length taking in to account the two end pieces, drill, and re-rivet
(stainless steel rivets) the two draw bar end pieces back on to the tube. I
suspect that over time and many landings either the front or back piece has
been slightly "wallowed" out allowing some "play" to develop. Carefully
inspect the bored hole through the back grasp fork and the draw bar
attachment bearing on the front gear. If these holes are "wallowed" any you
will have to replace more than the draw bar itself. I have two assembly
drawings from my assembly manual that may help you. I will be glad to fax
them to you if you want them.
If you don't have any "wallowed" out end pieces, or "wallowed" out back
grasp fork, or a "wallowed" out draw bar attachment bearing on the front
gear, then all you need is the draw bar itself. You need to make sure that
the replacement draw bar part from Fantasy Air will truly "fit" back on your
plane. I would do every thing I could to assure that it will fit with out
any field work on your part before you order it from Fantasy Air. If there
is the slightest doubt, you might consider just ordering the tube slightly
longer than required, cutting it to length from field measurements and
fixing it the way I did. The tube cost only about $5.00. Let me know if you
want the two assembly sheets I referred to.
Hugh McKay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allegro-List
Digest Server
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 2:55 AM
Subject: Allegro-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/20/08
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete Allegro-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the Allegro-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
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===============================================
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===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
Allegro-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sun 04/20/08: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:26 AM - nose gear shimmy (Thom Riddle)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Subject: Allegro-List: nose gear shimmy
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
For the first time ever, I had a bit of nose gear shimmy after landing. Our
Allegro
is the oldest one in the USA so perhaps no one else has yet experienced
this.
Ours has 565 hours on it. Upon inspecting, I found the "drawbar attachment
bearing" allowing a little fore/aft movement. Ours is factory built so I've
not had to install or remove this part which is referred to as "store
number"
06-03 and "catalogue number" 6001260 in my assembly manual.
My questions:
1) Have you had any nose gear shimmy?
2) If so, was this the cause or was it something else?
3) For those who built their Allegro, what is involved in removing the old
one
and installing the new part? It looks like removing the fork and the lower
"spacer"
will allow it to be slid off the nose gear tube.
4) I've asked B Bar D for price and availability but have not hear back from
them
yet.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if
I
have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common
sense.
- Buddha
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177996#177996
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nosegearparts_143.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thom Riddle <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | re:nose gear shimmy |
Hugh,
It sounds like you've paid your dues on the drawbar.
When I inspected the nose gear after the shimmy developed the only
place I saw any relative movement was between the drawbar bearing and
the nose gear tube. I"ll inspect more carefully all the drawbar
connection points to confirm there is none there too. I can see how
the drawbar is installed/removed. My question was about removing the
drawbar bearing, not the drawbar itself. Unless I discover relative
motion elsewhere it appears that the sleeve bearing material, which
appears to be made of nylon, Delrin, UHMW or something of the sort,
has worn out. If that is the case, which seems likely, then replacing
that bearing or at least the sleeve material should resolve the problem.
I will take you up on your offer of faxing me what you have. My fax
number is (425) 920-8010. I'd like to see if what you have is the same
as what is in the PDF file of the assembly manual that B Bar D finally
sent me a couple years ago after begging them for more useful
information. I've still not heard back from them on my request for
price and delivery of the bearing so I'll call them. If you don't have
the PDF file (only paper copy?) and would like it, let me know and
I'll send it to you. I also strong armed them into giving me their
spreadsheet file with part numbers. If you don't have that and want
it, let me know.
There is now a second Allegro in western New York, about 65 air miles
south of me. He bought it from the first owner who had very little
time in type when he broke it during a hot landing without flaps.
Apparently he had not learned how good a glider the Allegro is and
couldn't get it to come down so he forced it on, nose wheel first. The
pilot was not injured but the airplane had major structural damage,
including fuselage, main gear, nose gear and firewall, and prop. He
hauled the fuselage to a composite expert in New Mexico and had it all
repaired. I saw the airplane last weekend and it looked brand new,
inside and out. That composite guy in New Mexico really knows his
stuff. Now the current owner is waiting (still) for a new nose wheel
from B Bar D, which broke during the accident last year. It has been
inspected and is ready to fly again except for the wheel.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | re:nose gear shimmy |
Thom:
Sorry I did not clearly understand your email. I may still not understand
the item in question. Are you talking about the small swivel bearing that is
pressed in the back end of the draw bar, or are you talking about the large
nylon (?) sleeve bushing that is on the front gear aluminum pipe which
attaches to the front end of the draw bar? If it is the small swivel
bearing, I believe it is pressed in the back end piece of the draw bar. If
it is the large nylon (?) bushing, it can easily be replaced.
I will fax you the two sheets from my assembly manual. The quality of the
two sketches and the numbering system was not very clear, so I have marked
the numbers in a clearer manner. If you have any questions email or call me
at 704-483-9509 (home), or 704-661-8271 (cell). Yes, I would like a copy of
your pdf file for the assembly manual, and parts list spread sheet. I only
have one paper copy of the assembly manual. Even though I have numerous
notes and additional hand written information on my paper copy, if it ever
was lost I would at least have a back up pdf of the manual itself. I'll fax
the two sheets today.
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 7:15 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: re:nose gear shimmy
Hugh,
It sounds like you've paid your dues on the drawbar.
When I inspected the nose gear after the shimmy developed the only
place I saw any relative movement was between the drawbar bearing and
the nose gear tube. I"ll inspect more carefully all the drawbar
connection points to confirm there is none there too. I can see how
the drawbar is installed/removed. My question was about removing the
drawbar bearing, not the drawbar itself. Unless I discover relative
motion elsewhere it appears that the sleeve bearing material, which
appears to be made of nylon, Delrin, UHMW or something of the sort,
has worn out. If that is the case, which seems likely, then replacing
that bearing or at least the sleeve material should resolve the problem.
I will take you up on your offer of faxing me what you have. My fax
number is (425) 920-8010. I'd like to see if what you have is the same
as what is in the PDF file of the assembly manual that B Bar D finally
sent me a couple years ago after begging them for more useful
information. I've still not heard back from them on my request for
price and delivery of the bearing so I'll call them. If you don't have
the PDF file (only paper copy?) and would like it, let me know and
I'll send it to you. I also strong armed them into giving me their
spreadsheet file with part numbers. If you don't have that and want
it, let me know.
There is now a second Allegro in western New York, about 65 air miles
south of me. He bought it from the first owner who had very little
time in type when he broke it during a hot landing without flaps.
Apparently he had not learned how good a glider the Allegro is and
couldn't get it to come down so he forced it on, nose wheel first. The
pilot was not injured but the airplane had major structural damage,
including fuselage, main gear, nose gear and firewall, and prop. He
hauled the fuselage to a composite expert in New Mexico and had it all
repaired. I saw the airplane last weekend and it looked brand new,
inside and out. That composite guy in New Mexico really knows his
stuff. Now the current owner is waiting (still) for a new nose wheel
from B Bar D, which broke during the accident last year. It has been
inspected and is ready to fly again except for the wheel.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! |
Dear Listers,
I have added four new Lists to the Matronics line up today. These include the
following categories:
Citabria-List Citabria, Decathlon, Scout, and Champ
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All services are enabled and now available including Search, Browse, Digest, Archives,
Forums, Chat, etc., etc. etc...:
Citabria:
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Zenith601:
http://www.matronics.com/navigator?zenith601-list
Zenith640:
http://www.matronics.com/navigator?zenith640-list
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To subscribe, go to the Matronics Email List Subscription Form:
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To check the new Lists out on the Matronics Forum go here:
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Enjoy the new Lists!! Don't forget me during the Fund Raiser! :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Allegro SS exhaust system |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone know of an Allegro exhaust system in good condition that might be available?
Our old pre-SS model finally bit the dust.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if I
have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense.
- Buddha
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183087#183087
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bear Creek Aviation <bear_creek_lsa(at)bellsouth.net> |
Wondering what you folks are getting for the 2005 Allegro 2000 Aircraft
CG. This is the Xt measurement in the flight manual.The factory built
aircraft which I measured/weighed differed from the original aircraft
paperwork. Weight(not surprisingly) as well as measurements both differed.
Thanks,
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000 CG |
Attached is Thom Riddles weight and balance excel
My 2005 Allegro 100hp came with the CG just slightly forward of the forward limit
so I fitted a 2.2lb weight in the tail. As you can see from the excel, 2 pilots
full fuel and baggage gives 29%
Forward limit is an 85lb pilot. Even putting 44lb baggage in the equation (max
22lb), it gets nowhere near the rear CG limit. Empty is 10 inches, 1 inch forward
of the forward limit
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184886#184886
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wandb_tail_weight_490.xls
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Vortex generators tested on Allegro |
VORTEX GENERATORS
Please open Word attachment. The speed data has not come out correctly on this
post. (The flap settings have appeared as a phone number!)Pictures of VGs fitted
to Allegro in another post.
Allegro 2000 first test flight with Stolspeed VGs.
3 flights, total time about 2.5 hrs flown with instructor Michael Peare
Density alt 2,600'
CG close to forward limit
Weight 490 KG
Pictures and info for VGs at www.stolspeed.com
Test 1 - VGs half span
Test 2 - VGs full span
Test 3 VGs full span but leave gap of 80cms (30in) at wing root
POWER OFF POWER ON 3000 RPM
Flap setting 0 15 48 0 15 48
NO VG 45 40 36 44 38 35
HALF SPAN VG 43 36 36 43 37 34
FULL SPAN VG 41 36 34 38 36 34
Stall sp reduced 4 4 2 6 2 1
Airspeeds in knots Dynon and ASI both calibrated
No VGs
Aircraft breaks and drops right wing. Significant wing drop with power on.
Little buffet just before stall. Ailerons have adverse yaw close to stall. Needs
some rudder to correct wing drop.
Ailerons a little heavy.
Test 1 - VGs half span and VGs on vertical stabiliser
Ailerons lighter, more effective.
A lot of buffet warning
Power off - no break, no wing drop. Stick full back, aircraft nose high and buffets
Power on - mild wing drop, quick recovery.
Can be rolled 30 left 30 right a few knots below stall. Stable.
Ailerons can be used to roll level after stall.
Can fly 40 degree banked turn few knots below stall. Aircraft buffets and purpoises
but does not break.
Small reduction stall speed except power off reduced 4 kts @ half flap
Test 2 - VGs full span
Ailerons same as test 1.
Reduced buffet
Power off - mild wing drop, quick recovery. At zero flap, no break, descends 500'/min
Power on - break and mild wing drop, quick recovery
Significant reduction in clean stall speed, power on/off.
Aircraft can be trimmed to fly at 38 knots full flap with very high nose angle.
Stable.
Test 3 - removed VGs at the wing root (approx span of the elevator) to try to get
the strong buffet in test 1 with half span VGs. Made no difference.
Notes.
Factory stall warning gave good warning under all tests. For example power off,
full flap the stall warn sounds @ 42, buffet @ 37 and stall 34
Right wing drop even from left turn with left rudder 34 kts 3,800 RPM
Increasing RPM to 4,000 full flap, stall speed same, 34 kts, wing drop not significantly
worse with more power (very different to standard config with no VGs)
Stall speeds in POH say 43 - 39 - 35 kts
Conclusion
The VGs on the tail did not seem to give a noticeable difference in handling.
Results broadly similar to many aircraft i.e. large difference in clean stall speed,
less so in approach configuration.
Half VGs gave the best handling but a small reduction in stall
Full VGs gave good reduction of stall speed but less buffet and more wing drop
than half span
The Allegro has powerful 48 degree flaps. The inboard span stalls long before the
outboard and the VGs cannot help much.
Big difference in aileron response. Much nicer to fly. Although Allegro has 11m
wingspan, it feels light in roll.
Surprisingly, removing the VGs close to the wing root did not bring back the buffet
that was present with half span VGs
These VGs were a simple and inexpensive way to improve safety and handling
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184892#184892
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vg_allegro_report_vgs_351.doc
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Stall Warning System |
Hugh
My LED was red-green. It stopped working within a few hours. The red would come
on with start up then change to green at take off speed. Red indicated a stall.
I think I sent you some photos a while back when I had my panel out. I can look
for them again.
The system is a little quirky and sometimes sounds on the ground when taxying in
a cross wind but it works well in the air and gives about 5 to 7 kts warning
before the break.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184901#184901
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS overheating issues |
We fly an Allegro 2000 100hp in Thailand with temperatures around 28 to 35 degrees
(82 to 96F). It would overheat within 10 mins of startup at 2200 rpm and needed
very gentle climbouts.
We fitted EvansCool and opened a circular hole in the lower cowling and enlarged
the oil cooler opening about 3 times. (See picture)
The oil runs too cool now and once a day we have to get the oil temperature over
100C (250F) - Rotax say this must be done to avoid condensation problems in
the oil system.
The additional oil cooling and reduction in cyl head temp with the extra airflow
is now acceptable and it never goes over 130C. (Max 150C) We checked the senders
in boiling water - they were underreading on the guage by about 10F.
The best solution is probably to fit the Rotax cooling baffle. I have a friend
with an 80hp who has it fitted and the opening is only about 1.5 in diameter but
it never overheats. The problem is that the baffle is very expensive.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184906#184906
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0646_151.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Makrolon - Solid Polycarbonate Canopy Material |
Gentlemen:
I as well as you have a solid sheet of clear polycarconate 'MAKROLON" as my
canopy, doors, and windshield (windscreen for those of you in dear old
England). I have developed what appears to be water spots on the exterior of
the material, and cannot get them off with soapy water, mild liquid
detergent, or theses special aerosol cleaner/polishers. Also as often
happens when you have a plane on a grass field I have some mild scratches on
the material as well. Can any one give me some direction as how to get the
"spots" removed as well as the scratches?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
N661WW
Rotax 912 UL
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "T Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Polycarbonate windshield scratch remover polish |
Hugh,
My A&P I/A partner knows what is good and I've asked him, waiting for a
reply and will post as soon as I have an answer. We use Plexus on a regular
basis to clean and polish but it will not remove scratches.
Earlier this year we replaced our windshield due to some damage from an
impact of some sort. We did not buy Fantasy Air's outrageously priced
windshield because it was not even cut to size, just a big rectangular piece
of Makrolon. We bought a sheet of Makrolon from McMaster-Carr which was not
big enough in the fore-aft direction but no problem. We spliced it about a
15" or so from the aft most part behind your head. The cost was about 1/4th
of what Fantasy Air wanted for a single piece big enough to cover it all
(European size).
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Polycarbonate windshield scratch remover polish |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
According to my A&P I/A partner....
Novus Plastic polish #1 cleans and protects
Novus Plastic polish #2 restores and refinishes (removes fine scratches)
Novus Plastic polish #3 removes heavy scratches (aggressive polish)
Aircraft Spruce sells it and probably others
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
It has been said that man is a rational animal. All my life I have been searching
for evidence which could support this.
- Bertrand Russell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187566#187566
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Polycarbonate windshield scratch remover polish |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
If you want a good, affordable and easy to use windshield scratch remover get the
Micro Mesh system from Aircraft Spruce. You do not need the heavy duty one.
This works extremely well and will make your windshield look brand new.
I have done a few of them now and they come out clear as a bell. Not a scratch
anywhere.
I use 210 cleaner and the 210 polish during the in between times.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187668#187668
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
For any of you that don't know me or for those that live close enough to Tucson,
Az.
I am an Light Sport Repairman - Maint. rated. I am also a Rotax Service center.
If you need work done on the airframe, engine or just an inspection I am available.
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
520-574-1080
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
Read this topic online here:
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Vortex Generators |
Paul:
I read your May 26, 2008 Matronics Allegro-List post on the above subject
with great interest. I also have an Allegro 2000 and am contemplating adding
vortex generators. I assume from your post that you used the Stolspeed
Feathers VGs. Did you follow their instructions concerning installing the
VGs? The Allegro 2000 has a main wing chord of 42 inches. 7% of this is 2.94
inches. Did you place the tips of the VGs 2.94 inches back from the leading
edge? From the end of the flaps to the wing tip the wing chord varies, but I
notice that the instructions from Stolspeed state that for a wing with a
swept-back leading edge (varying chord) they still call for a line 7% of
chord back from the leading edge and parallel to the leading edge. I don't
understand this. Is this still 7% of the main wing chord of 42 inches? If
the chord is varying, why are the tips of the VGs at the same constant
distance back from the leading edge? Further comments from you and others on
this subject would be appreciated.
Hugh McKay in North Carolina, USA
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Vortex generators update |
To answer Hugh's question in his post titled 'Vortex Generators' Stolspeed say
the VGs can be placed at 8-12% of the chord. I wanted to place them quite far
forward (7%)for the following reasons
The Allegro has a fairly sharp leading egde
Air velocity is probably highest around 7% chord at the stall
The tapered sections are quite narrow (and the most vulnerable to a stall) and
the vortices need time to propagate.
I discussed this with the VG designer and he agreed.
Fitting is simple and the Stolsped instructions are very good. The tapered section
takes a little head-scratching but is actually easy.
You only need to mark 3 points on the wing.
On the constant chord section mark 2 points 2.14 inches back from the leading edge.
The first point (A) is at the wing root, the second (B) exactly where the
chord changes from constant to tapered. Ping a chalk line.
Place the front tips of the VGs touching the chalk line. This puts the tallest
part of the 'fin' at 7%
Now measure the chord at the wingtip fairing join (ignore the fairing itself) and
mark point C at 7% minus 0.8 in (the distance from the front tip to the fin
of the VG.)
Ping a chalk line from point B to C (start of tapered section to the wingtip -
ignoring the fiberglass fairing)
The back of the template must be 90 degrees to the airflow. Mark a series of lines
parallel to the main spar. It's probably easier in removable felt pen rather
than chalk to avoid the dust for adhesion. Use the lines as a reference for
the back of the template.
A couple of notes...
Suggest you try only the tapered section first then full span if you want.
If you are going to do stall tests with and without VGs, are you current and familiar
with stall recovery? I flew with a chief instructor which was a comfortable
feeling! Did you get your stall warning working?
Talked to the Italian dealer who said the Allegro will recover from a spin normally
and immediately with full opposite rudder. After 3 turns autorotation speed
increases.
See http://www.mcp.com.au/allegro/flight-test/flight-test.html about sharp stall and wing drop power on
See http://www.aero-siam.com/page143.html for VG flight report and pictures of VGs
Suggest you fit the horiz stab VGs and test fly before fitting the wing VGs
Aircraft will take off sooner and land and float a little later. Touchdown 31 kts
CAS in ground effect.
Easier to bump the tail (and take off too soon) because the nose angle is higher
for a given stick input.
I have a dynon pitot set several degrees below incidence. The factory pitot does
not seem to suffer position error.
I will check measurements when I am next at the field.
Regards
Paul
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189510#189510
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Allegro vortex generators on vertical stabilizer |
Has anyone tried VG's on the vertical stabilizer to enhance the rudder
stability and thus yaw stability of the plane with feet off the pedals?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Vortex generators update |
Paul:
I have tried to reach Stolspeed at their email address with a few questions.
I keep getting my message returned. Can you give me the proper email address
to use to reach them?
Also from your dissertation on the use of the Feathers VGs, am I correct
that with the VGs on the outboard of the wings only, the landing attitude of
the plane is steeper than without the VGs? The landing attitude of the plane
at touchdown under normal conditions is still fairly steep (in my opinion).
Your statement that with the VGs on the wings only, one could easily drag
the tail on takeoff or landing disturbs me. I certainly don't want to begin
to do this. Please explain this further to me. I am certainly not going to
put something on my plane that causes me to risk dragging the tail!
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosiam
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 1:21 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Vortex generators update
To answer Hugh's question in his post titled 'Vortex Generators' Stolspeed
say the VGs can be placed at 8-12% of the chord. I wanted to place them
quite far forward (7%)for the following reasons
The Allegro has a fairly sharp leading egde
Air velocity is probably highest around 7% chord at the stall
The tapered sections are quite narrow (and the most vulnerable to a stall)
and the vortices need time to propagate.
I discussed this with the VG designer and he agreed.
Fitting is simple and the Stolsped instructions are very good. The tapered
section takes a little head-scratching but is actually easy.
You only need to mark 3 points on the wing.
On the constant chord section mark 2 points 2.14 inches back from the
leading edge. The first point (A) is at the wing root, the second (B)
exactly where the chord changes from constant to tapered. Ping a chalk line.
Place the front tips of the VGs touching the chalk line. This puts the
tallest part of the 'fin' at 7%
Now measure the chord at the wingtip fairing join (ignore the fairing
itself) and mark point C at 7% minus 0.8 in (the distance from the front tip
to the fin of the VG.)
Ping a chalk line from point B to C (start of tapered section to the wingtip
- ignoring the fiberglass fairing)
The back of the template must be 90 degrees to the airflow. Mark a series of
lines parallel to the main spar. It's probably easier in removable felt pen
rather than chalk to avoid the dust for adhesion. Use the lines as a
reference for the back of the template.
A couple of notes...
Suggest you try only the tapered section first then full span if you want.
If you are going to do stall tests with and without VGs, are you current and
familiar with stall recovery? I flew with a chief instructor which was a
comfortable feeling! Did you get your stall warning working?
Talked to the Italian dealer who said the Allegro will recover from a spin
normally and immediately with full opposite rudder. After 3 turns
autorotation speed increases.
See http://www.mcp.com.au/allegro/flight-test/flight-test.html about sharp
stall and wing drop power on
See http://www.aero-siam.com/page143.html for VG flight report and pictures
of VGs
Suggest you fit the horiz stab VGs and test fly before fitting the wing VGs
Aircraft will take off sooner and land and float a little later. Touchdown
31 kts CAS in ground effect.
Easier to bump the tail (and take off too soon) because the nose angle is
higher for a given stick input.
I have a dynon pitot set several degrees below incidence. The factory pitot
does not seem to suffer position error.
I will check measurements when I am next at the field.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189510#189510
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vortex generators update |
Hugh
The VGs have 2 benefits. They reduce stall speed and improve control effectiveness
as slow speed.
The stall speed is less because the VGs allow the wing to fly at a higher angle
of attack than before - I would guess only 1 degree more at landing full flaps
so the tail will be slightly nearer the ground on a full flare landing
The improved control means that whatever stick inputs you are used to for landing
and taking off, you will need slightly less back pressure for the same effect
- it is like having a slightly bigger horizontal tail surface
In practice, the effects are not significant and it only takes a few take offs
and landing to get used to it.
The effect is more with full span VGs over half-span.
The downsides of the VGs are very minor compared to the improvement in safety and
handling.
Regards
Paul
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190540#190540
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone experienced reduced brake effectiveness?
Our 100hp plane had excellent brakes and could hold 5000 RPM when new. Now it can
hardly hold 3500. This happened over a short period of time
We removed the master cylinder. The seal doesn't look perfect but seems usable.
We bled the system several times.
We have asked the factory for a new seal a few days ago and await a response.
Paul
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192213#192213
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | long range tanks |
From: | "parahawk" <alfi98596(at)yahoo.com> |
Does anybody know if the long range tanks can be purchased / installed in a 2006
factory built Allegro.
thanks [Question]
--------
Flying is the highest form of life on earth.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192218#192218
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Brake problem |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Paul,
Our experience has been similar. After sitting overnight, we usually need to pump
the brake actuating lever a couple times to restore firmness. Occasionally,
we have to add a bit of fluid to the master cylinder which restores function.
We have a paper towel wrapped around the master cylinder to catch any leakage
but have never seen any signs of leaking, either there or elsewhere in the system.
Although a slight nuisance, with the above actions it is stable and the
brakes still work very well when needed.
We've not replaced any seals so if you do so, please let us know how effective
this is.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192236#192236
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Brake problem |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
Maybe I can help. What brake system does the Allegro use? The Flight Design CT
has bad Italian brakes and they have had the same symptoms as the Allegro. As
ours have gone bad we are now switching to Matco brakes. The Italian brakes had
half the stopping power, high speed brake fade and you had to pump them. The
symptoms start after a while. The Matco's have twice the stopping power and
you never have to pump them. They will hold to 5000rpm from a 912uls.
I helped get this new brake system on line for the CT and maybe we can do the same
for the Allegro.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192527#192527
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vortex generators update |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Are you guys getting factory approval for the VG's?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192528#192528
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Brake problem |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Roger,
I know the Allegro brakes, at least the ones on our 2003 model, are made in the
Czech Republic and believe they are made by Evektor. The Evektor LSA has the
same brakes. When they are pumped up they hold very well and have good stopping
power. Not enough to lock up and skid the tires but enough so that you don't
feel the need for any more power.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192564#192564
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vortex generators update |
The VGs were tested on an ultralight/experimental aircraft in Thailand which has
considerable flexibility in its regulations.
When I visited fantasy air to buy my aircraft, I suggested I would do a VG test.
Their view (and the designer) was that VGs would not make that much difference.
I emailed them the report (which I posted on this site) but they did not respond.
I have no idea what would be needed to getting the factory involved but having
flown for several months now with the VGs, I am very happy to have them on the
plane. The landing characteristics and general handling are nicer all round.
Paul
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192606#192606
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Brake problem |
Thanks for the feedback.
I suspect a new seal would improve the brakes and they did really work well when
new.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192607#192607
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vortex generators update |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Paul,
I have done a few mods to my Flight Design CT. I did get factory approval and it
has to be in writing. If you do not have that then that puts you out of SLSA
compliance and out of insurance. You can bet the insurance company will blame
the VG's if you have a accident. I have a form letter that is good for any factory
mod and it has to have certain wording for the FAA to be happy. It is short
and sweet, but needs to be sent to the factory. You need to take 3 pictures
of the mod and send it in with the letter. Most Mfg's already know of this letter
of approval.
You need to dog the factory and get this approved for your own benefit. Remember
an SLSA is no different than a GA aircraft when it comes to mods. The FAA says
if something is in the manual it is a minor repair, if it is not in the manual
then it is considered a major repair and needs the factory approval and a
rated mechanic for the mod.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192740#192740
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Vortex generators update |
Hi Roger
Interesting. I imagined getting a mod approved would be a difficult process.
In the case of the VGs, I would think Fantasy Air would want their test pilot to
do test flights.
The factory does not have the best reputation for responding to customers and I
doubt they would make the effort to test the VGs.
If Hugh or anyone else is seriously interested, maybe we could get the factory
interested.
When I was in Czech in 2005, I offered to pick up the tab for fuel if they paid
their test pilot for a series of test flights.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192750#192750
________________________________________________________________________________
Our aircraft came with stiff ailerons. We traced the problem to a shaft misaligned
in a nylon bushing (the red shaft that attaches to the bellcrank in the top
of the cabin.) We drilled out the bearing slightly and on the ground, the ailerons
now feel loose and normal.
However in the air, they have a 'break-out' force. If the pilot applies a positive
movement of a few inches to roll, it is ok. But if he tries to make small
normal corrections in flight of half an inch, there is considerable resistance.
I will try a spring gauge next time I fly, but I'm guessing that it takes a
4 pound force before the stick will move off center. It is tiring and irritating
to fly.
Does anyone have the same problem or have an idea what might be causing it?
One possibility is that the fuselage cage bends slightly in flight and still pinches
the shaft which was originally misaligned. Maybe we need to ream out the
nylon bushing more but without comparing to another aircraft, it is difficult
to assess.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192754#192754
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Lubricating flap motor screw shaft |
The flap motor operates a vertical screw shaft which rotates in a nylon bushing
riveted to the flap actuating arm. It is accessible after removing the white
cover behind the pilot's seat.
The screw shaft should be lubricated with lithium grease, I believe.
If a 3 in 1 type oil is applied to the metal screw shaft, it causes the nylon bushing
to expand. Over time, flap movement slows and the flap breaker starts popping
due to the excess load. The cure is to tap out the nylon bushing until
the screw shaft moves freely inside it.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192757#192757
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Vortex generators update |
Roger/Paul:
My Allegro 2000 is an E-LSA so I don't have your paperwork and approval
problem. However, based on how my Allegro is performing I have not yet
decided that I need the V
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosiam
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 8:52 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Vortex generators update
Hi Roger
Interesting. I imagined getting a mod approved would be a difficult process.
In the case of the VGs, I would think Fantasy Air would want their test
pilot to do test flights.
The factory does not have the best reputation for responding to customers
and I doubt they would make the effort to test the VGs.
If Hugh or anyone else is seriously interested, maybe we could get the
factory interested.
When I was in Czech in 2005, I offered to pick up the tab for fuel if they
paid their test pilot for a series of test flights.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192750#192750
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Vortex generators update |
-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh [mailto:hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 9:58 PM
Subject: FW: Allegro-List: Re: Vortex generators update
Roger/Paul:
Sorry, I hit a send button by mistake before finishing my message. Here is
the finished one.
My Allegro 2000 is an E-LSA so I don't have your paperwork and approval
problem. However, based on how my Allegro is performing I have not yet
decided that I need the VGs. I do know that they improve performance at the
lower speeds, but how much? The Allegro is such a slick plane and it glides
so well, I'm not sure I would put the VGs on. The choice would seem to me to
be a personal one rather than a "major change in performance". I may be
wrong, and am open to the opinion of others.
In my opinion, based on my experience over the past 3 years with Fantasy Air
Czech Republic), as well as the US Distributor, you will have a very
difficult time getting them to do the testing and paperwork to satisfy the
FAA. In fact I personally would not waste my time! I would rather spend it
flying and enjoying life.
Regards,
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912UL
N661WW
-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh [mailto:hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 9:42 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Re: Vortex generators update
Roger/Paul:
My Allegro 2000 is an E-LSA so I don't have your paperwork and approval
problem. However, based on how my Allegro is performing I have not yet
decided that I need the V
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosiam
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 8:52 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Vortex generators update
Hi Roger
Interesting. I imagined getting a mod approved would be a difficult process.
In the case of the VGs, I would think Fantasy Air would want their test
pilot to do test flights.
The factory does not have the best reputation for responding to customers
and I doubt they would make the effort to test the VGs.
If Hugh or anyone else is seriously interested, maybe we could get the
factory interested.
When I was in Czech in 2005, I offered to pick up the tab for fuel if they
paid their test pilot for a series of test flights.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192750#192750
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Paul:
Since my Allegro is an E-LSA (I built it from the Q-Build Kit), I can tell
you that I had to ream the nylon bushing to get the shaft that passes
through it to turn smoothly. This was due to a "tight fit" rather than
misalignment. However, in your case if the shaft is still misaligned, you
may have to do more than just "drilling out the bushing". If you know the
problem is a shaft misalignment, can you correct the misalignment itself? I
would try to do that first before I did any more "drilling". I don't know
how this affects your SLSA status.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosiam
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Stiff ailerons
Our aircraft came with stiff ailerons. We traced the problem to a shaft
misaligned in a nylon bushing (the red shaft that attaches to the bellcrank
in the top of the cabin.) We drilled out the bearing slightly and on the
ground, the ailerons now feel loose and normal.
However in the air, they have a 'break-out' force. If the pilot applies a
positive movement of a few inches to roll, it is ok. But if he tries to make
small normal corrections in flight of half an inch, there is considerable
resistance. I will try a spring gauge next time I fly, but I'm guessing that
it takes a 4 pound force before the stick will move off center. It is tiring
and irritating to fly.
Does anyone have the same problem or have an idea what might be causing it?
One possibility is that the fuselage cage bends slightly in flight and still
pinches the shaft which was originally misaligned. Maybe we need to ream
out the nylon bushing more but without comparing to another aircraft, it is
difficult to assess.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192754#192754
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Lubricating flap motor screw shaft |
Paul:
I was not aware that the screw part of the shaft screwed (operated) in a
matching nylon female screw. I have been lubricating the steel screw with
white lithium grease without a problem for two years. I certainly will not
use oil on the screw after reading your post. If oil causes the nylon to
expand over time, why would'nt the Lithium grease do the same thing?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosiam
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 9:30 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Lubricating flap motor screw shaft
The flap motor operates a vertical screw shaft which rotates in a nylon
bushing riveted to the flap actuating arm. It is accessible after removing
the white cover behind the pilot's seat.
The screw shaft should be lubricated with lithium grease, I believe.
If a 3 in 1 type oil is applied to the metal screw shaft, it causes the
nylon bushing to expand. Over time, flap movement slows and the flap breaker
starts popping due to the excess load. The cure is to tap out the nylon
bushing until the screw shaft moves freely inside it.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192757#192757
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | October Page Az. LSA Fly-In |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Ok Guys and Gals,
Here is the important info. You are all invited.
The Flight Design group gets together each October for a fun few days. We will
fly Monument Vally, Lake Powell, Marble Canyon, Grand canyon and Bryce Canyon.
We take ground side trips during the day. We have other aircraft that come and
we would like to invite the Allegro pilots.
It is Oct. 16th Thursday and go home on Oct. 19th Sunday. We always have a great
time. Everyone attending is fun to be with and gets along very well.
We have a special rate at the same place we stayed last year.
Tell them you are with the "CT Group" and the rate is $49 a night. We will arrive
Thursday morning, Oct. 16th. and head home Oct. 19th. Sunday morning.
Best Western Arizona Inn
716 Rim View Dr.
Page, Az.
800-826-2718
928-645-2456
We will fly into the Page airport - KPGA.
We are staying with the Classic FBO and with our group we should get a .30 cent
discount on fuel.
Classic is not the first FBO next to the runway, but the second one behind them.
The Antelope Canyon tour is open if anyone wants. This is a land tour.
I did some checking for those who are interested. We can take a Lake Powell lake
tour by boat..
One is an evening dinner tour. It is 2.5 hours and serves Prime rib or Lasagna.
It cost $87.67 per person.
The other one is a boat tour that last 3 hours and goes through some famous canyons,
the Navajo Tapestry tour. It cost $63.52.
Orrrr we can rent 19" power boats our selves and take them out and explore the
lake and fingers. The cost of the boat is $325 a day (8am-5pm). They hold eight
people and this is only $40 a person.
Any of the boat items they would like a 24 hour notice.
These are only some ideas that I checked on. We don't have to do them and if only
some want to do them that is ok.
You guys are welcome to invite other planes that are not CT's and everyone is welcome.
Find some more LSA's.
_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maint. Rated
Rotax Service Center
(520) 574-1080
[/b]
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194145#194145
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Stiff ailerons |
Hugh
We reamed out the nylon bushings again until the shaft was slightly loose in the
bushing and that has cured the problem.
I recall we had the same problem with the rudder being too stiff. The collar to
which the compression strut is attached was butted too tightly against the suspension
collar. We removed and machined the top of the collar and now the rudder
turns freely.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194715#194715
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stiff ailerons |
Paul:
I had the same rudder problem as you.
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of aerosiam
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 11:17 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Stiff ailerons
Hugh
We reamed out the nylon bushings again until the shaft was slightly loose in
the bushing and that has cured the problem.
I recall we had the same problem with the rudder being too stiff. The collar
to which the compression strut is attached was butted too tightly against
the suspension collar. We removed and machined the top of the collar and now
the rudder turns freely.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194715#194715
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Annual Air Frame Inspection |
It is time for me to conduct the annual airframe check/inspection on my
Allegro 2000 ELSA. The only check list I have for the Allegro 2000 is a 7
page, Check and Maintenance Manual V1.0, copyright X-Air Australia 2004. I
don't believe this document was produced by the airplane manufacturer,
Fantasy Air, so I don't know if it is the correct one to follow. The only
other document I have to follow is AC90-89A, Appendix1, dated 5/24/95. The
Australia document is undoubtedly specific to the Allegro, but much of the
language terminology seems to be "Australianeez", and a bit difficult (at
least for me) to figure out. What I am asking is, what check list are you
E-LSA guys using for your annual, or 100, 200, and 500 hour airframe
inspections?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
N661WW
Rotax 912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Annual Air Frame Inspection |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
The manufacture is supposed to have one. If they do not then you can find one in
Part 43 FAA manual. It is more generic.
I am try to attach a Flight Design CT manual. In it is a very good inspection list.
I will also try and attach a Rotax inspection.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195055#195055
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Annual Air Frame Inspection |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
The Rotax "Line Maint. Manual" has their own check list. I tried to attach a Flight
Design check list, but it didn't work. The FD check list is a very good inspection
check list.
If you would post your email address I will try and send it through Yahoo.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195056#195056
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Carpenter <n3081x(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Annual Air Frame Inspection |
Hugh...Is this what you need??? I think it is in English!!!!
Brian n3081x 2006 Allegro 2000
--- On Sat, 7/26/08, hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Allegro-List: Annual Air Frame Inspection
Date: Saturday, July 26, 2008, 5:14 AM
It is time for me to conduct the annual airframe check/inspection on my
Allegro 2000 ELSA. The only check list I have for the Allegro 2000 is a 7
page, Check and Maintenance Manual V1.0, copyright X-Air Australia 2004. I
don't believe this document was produced by the airplane manufacturer,
Fantasy Air, so I don't know if it is the correct one to follow. The only
other document I have to follow is AC90-89A, Appendix1, dated 5/24/95. The
Australia document is undoubtedly specific to the Allegro, but much of the
language terminology seems to be "Australianeez", and a bit difficult
(at
least for me) to figure out. What I am asking is, what check list are you
E-LSA guys using for your annual, or 100, 200, and 500 hour airframe
inspections?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
N661WW
Rotax 912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Annual Air Frame Inspection |
Roger:
Many thanks! My email is hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Annual Air Frame Inspection
Hi Hugh,
The Rotax "Line Maint. Manual" has their own check list. I tried to attach a
Flight Design check list, but it didn't work. The FD check list is a very
good inspection check list.
If you would post your email address I will try and send it through Yahoo.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195056#195056
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Annual Air Frame Inspection |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
Attached is for Allegro 2000. I am pretty sure the Australian one is just a copy
of this one from Fantasy Air. It is written in Czechlish.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195162#195162
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/allegro_check_and_maintenance_manual_123.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: October Page Az. LSA Fly-In |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
Any one with their Allegro planning on going to the LSA Page, Az. Fly-In?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195313#195313
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Wheel Bearing Inspection/Lubrication |
I notice that the Allegro 2000 Check and Maintenance Manual says very little
concerning checking the front and main gear wheel bearings. I haven't looked
closely, but do these bearings have to be lubricated, or are they sealed
bearings?
Hugh McKay III
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Maximum Take-off Weight? |
In the Allegro 2000 Flight and Operating Manual, dated August 2004, on page
12, I find the MTOW to be 560 Kg (1232 lbs.). In another set of specs for
the same aircraft I find the MTOW to be 520Kg (1144 lbs.). Then on the US
Distributer's web site the MTOW for the 2007 Allegro 2000 is shown to be 600
Kg (1320 lbs.). I fly an Allegro 2000 (S/N 04-713). I would appreciate some
feed back concerning what the correct MTOW should be for my aircraft. I am
checking with the US Distributor but have got no reply yet.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing Inspection/Lubrication |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
The wheel bearings on the Allegro are sealed and need no periodic cleaning and
greasing. In about 600 hours of service on our Allegro, so far, they have performed
well with no complaint and no service. During annual inspections, we examine
the wheel carefully for cracks etc and spin it to see if there is any drag
in the bearing but that is about it.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195705#195705
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Maximum Take-off Weight? |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
The Allegro 2000 was initially built for the European market which has a MTOW limit
of 520 kg (1144 lb) for that class of aircraft, or at least it did at the
time. I believe they are considering increasing that limit. When approved for
S-LSA in the USA the MTOW was raised to 1232 lb for Allegro 2000s sold in the
USA. The newer 2007 model has a heavier empty weight with wider and slightly
taller cabin and larger tail. The MTOW for the 2007 model is 1320 lb.
The MTOW for your Allegro 2000 built as an E-LSA has an MTOW of 1232 lb.
Note that the load limit specifications for the European MTOW of 1144 lb is +4g
-2g. At MTOW of 1232 lb. the load limits will be +3.71 and -1.85
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195706#195706
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing Inspection/Lubrication |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
There are 1 or 2 little checks you should do. Jack one side up so the wheel is
off the ground just a little and see if you can detect any wobble or odd noise
from the wheel or the brakes. When wheels have some time on them the axial nut
may need to be adjusted, usually a little tighter. See if the wheel turns freely
or is it hanging up slightly or is there any movement from side to side.
If you have standard straight ball bearing type wheel or tapered roller bearings.
If you have the tapered roller bearing the wheel should only spin once around
when you try to spin it. If it's the straight roller bearing type then it
should spin freely several times.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195722#195722
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000 |
Gentlemen:
I have a rather convoluted question concerning Density Altitude and take off
run for the Allegro 2000. I am well aware of the influence of high altitude
and hot humid days on takeoff run length (i.e. high elevation + hot temp. +
high humidity = long take off runs. However, with the specific information
given below, I cannot complete calculating the rate of climb and the
approximate take-off distance required for the Allegro 2000 to clear a 50
foot obstacle for the specific set of circumstances given below.
(Field conditions)
Elevation - 1025 msl
Runway - Grass
Length = 2000 feet
Temp. - 95 degrees F, (35 degrees C)
Relative Humidity - 70%
Dew Pt. - 77 Degrees F
Barometer - 29.89 " Hg
Condition of Aircraft (Allegro 2000)
MTOW - 1232 lbs. (560 Kg.)
Empty Wt - 727.5 lbs. (includes BRS System)
Max. Fuel Load - 153 lbs. (main and wing tanks full)
Pilot - 155 lbs.
Passenger - 180 lbs.
Luggage - 16.5 lbs.
Actual TOW = 1232 lbs
C.G. = 12.6" behind the leading edge of wing
Standard Temperature, Pressure Altitude, and Density Altitude
For the above conditions I calculate the following values:
Std. Temp. = 12.95 degrees C
Pressure Altitude = 1055 Ft. msl
Density Altitude = 3260 Ft. msl
Standard Temperature Sea Level Take-off Distance for the Allegro 2000 at
MTOW
With all this information I could use the Kotch Chart for Altitude and
Temperature Effects on take-off distance, and Effect on rate of climb. What
I don't have is the standard temperature sea level take-off distance to
climb to 50 feet for the Allegro 2000 at MTOW 560 Kg (1320 lbs.), and the
normal sea level rate of climb for the Allegro 2000 at this MTOW. Pages 28
and 29 of my Allegro 2000 Flight and Operating Manual gives some performance
numbers, but they are for test flights made at the Pisek air field El. 1351
Ft and at an air temperature of 27 degrees C. The standard temperature sea
level take-off distance given on page 29 of the manual is for a MTOW of 520
Kg, not 560 Kg. This is either a typo or it is indeed for 520 Kg.
I need to know the Standard Temperature Sea level Take-off Distance for the
Allegro 2000 to clear a 50 foot obstacle at MTOW of 560 Kg., and c.g. at
12.6" behind the leading edge of the wing. I also need to know the normal
sea level rate of climb for the Allegro 2000 at MTOW of 560 Kg., and c.g. at
12.6" behind the leading edge of the wing. I have contacted the US
Distributor to get this information but have not heard from him yet. Can any
of you who own an Allegro 2000 provide these two bits of information?
With kind regards,
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas R. Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000 |
Hugh,
There are other variables that you did not mention that can have a
dramatic effect on rate of climb and take-off distances. The most
obvious is the pitch of the prop. Others, perhaps a little less
obvious, include the condition of the engine and the technique and
skill of the pilot. Also, which fuel are you burning? If it is E-10 it
will be producing roughly 3 1/2% less power than if using auto fuel
that is not laced with alcohol or 100LL. Also, the take-off distance
varies greatly with type and condition of surface. I know a pilot in
Hawaii who lives at ~4,000 msl with a short grass strip. He keeps one
have the width mowed short for take-off and the other half mowed long
for landing.
That said, you can make an educated guess at rate of climb (ROC) at a
given density altitude (DA) because it degrades at a nearly linear
rate up to the service ceiling. Of course this requires knowledge of
the service ceiling, which I would estimate to be around 15000' DA
with the 80hp engine with the prop set for best cruise at low DA. I
know I've had our Allegro up to 12500' msl and still getting about 400
fpm ROC. This was solo so at MTOW it would have been a good bit less
ROC. I don't recall what the DA was at that altitude on that day but
it was in cool weather.
I think you are over analyzing this. The safest thing to do is do some
take-off and climb testing at different weights and atmospheric
conditions on a long runway with a helper to pace off the take-off
roll. Since you live in North Carolina, you can fly to one of the
highest elevation airports east of the Mississippi River in reasonable
time and do the tests there too. There is nothing like empirical
testing to get the information you want because that will be done with
you at the flight controls and you controlling the loading etc. Get
enough data points under enough varying conditions and you can
extrapolate to get reasonably accurate figures under other conditions.
This will likely be more useful than some theoretical numbers that do
not take into account the variables not included in your original
question.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000 |
Thom:
Your points are well taken, but here is my situation. I have just filled my
wing tanks for the first time and belly tank, and am at my home grass field
N92 (i.e. max fuel load). The numbers you saw in my post are real. I have
taken off from this field many times with a full belly tank and the same
conditions as stated with a 200 lbs. passenger, 15 degrees on the prop, but
no fuel in the wing tanks. Under those conditions I use about half of the
2000 foot grass runway. All conditions being the same, except for 65 more
pounds of fuel in the wing, would my increase in take-off roll be linear or
something else?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas R.
Riddle
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000
Hugh,
There are other variables that you did not mention that can have a
dramatic effect on rate of climb and take-off distances. The most
obvious is the pitch of the prop. Others, perhaps a little less
obvious, include the condition of the engine and the technique and
skill of the pilot. Also, which fuel are you burning? If it is E-10 it
will be producing roughly 3 1/2% less power than if using auto fuel
that is not laced with alcohol or 100LL. Also, the take-off distance
varies greatly with type and condition of surface. I know a pilot in
Hawaii who lives at ~4,000 msl with a short grass strip. He keeps one
have the width mowed short for take-off and the other half mowed long
for landing.
That said, you can make an educated guess at rate of climb (ROC) at a
given density altitude (DA) because it degrades at a nearly linear
rate up to the service ceiling. Of course this requires knowledge of
the service ceiling, which I would estimate to be around 15000' DA
with the 80hp engine with the prop set for best cruise at low DA. I
know I've had our Allegro up to 12500' msl and still getting about 400
fpm ROC. This was solo so at MTOW it would have been a good bit less
ROC. I don't recall what the DA was at that altitude on that day but
it was in cool weather.
I think you are over analyzing this. The safest thing to do is do some
take-off and climb testing at different weights and atmospheric
conditions on a long runway with a helper to pace off the take-off
roll. Since you live in North Carolina, you can fly to one of the
highest elevation airports east of the Mississippi River in reasonable
time and do the tests there too. There is nothing like empirical
testing to get the information you want because that will be done with
you at the flight controls and you controlling the loading etc. Get
enough data points under enough varying conditions and you can
extrapolate to get reasonably accurate figures under other conditions.
This will likely be more useful than some theoretical numbers that do
not take into account the variables not included in your original
question.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing Inspection/Lubrication |
Roger:
I have jacked the main gear wheels and checked the free rotation without
load on the wheel. Both wheels turn freely for part of a revolution and then
seem to drag on the brake pad and stop. I can feel the slight drag at one
area when I slowly turn the wheel with my hand. My spare parts catalogue has
a blank page where the main carriage with hydraulic brakes are listed, so I
don't know if the main gear wheels have tapered or ball bearings. I visually
checked the inside pad/disk clearance and can see no gap between the pad and
the disk. This doesn't mean there is not a minute gap that can't be seen.
The caliper unit does have some play in it which is normal, but should I be
able to see a small gap between the inside pad and the disk, or not? I also
notice that the visible ends of the two steel pins that retain the pads,
(the ends that have cotter-pins in them) are protruding different lengths.
The top steel pin protrudes more than the bottom steel pin. The outer pad is
snug against the cotter-pin in the lower steel pin. Should these steel pins
have free movement in them? The pads have plenty of material on them, so
they appear to be fine. Any comments?
The nose gear wheel rotates freely.
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Wheel Bearing Inspection/Lubrication
Hi Hugh,
There are 1 or 2 little checks you should do. Jack one side up so the wheel
is off the ground just a little and see if you can detect any wobble or odd
noise from the wheel or the brakes. When wheels have some time on them the
axial nut may need to be adjusted, usually a little tighter. See if the
wheel turns freely or is it hanging up slightly or is there any movement
from side to side. If you have standard straight ball bearing type wheel or
tapered roller bearings. If you have the tapered roller bearing the wheel
should only spin once around when you try to spin it. If it's the straight
roller bearing type then it should spin freely several times.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195722#195722
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000 |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
Attached is a scanned image of a graph from my old Cherokee 140 operator's manual.
It shows the relationship among varying density altitudes and take-off weights.
I can not tell you with any certainty that the relationship will be similar
or not on your Allegro, but it is worth reviewing nonetheless.
That said, I have operated out of 2,000' long grass airports at DA of 2,000' at
take-off weight of 1130 lbs with no worries in our similarly equipped Allegro
with prop pitch set for best cruise.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195976#195976
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/take_off_perf_115.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000 |
T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000
Hugh,
Attached is a scanned image of a graph from my old Cherokee 140 operator's manual.
It shows the relationship among varying density altitudes and take-off weights.
I can not tell you with any certainty that the relationship will be similar
or not on your Allegro, but it is worth reviewing nonetheless.
That said, I have operated out of 2,000' long grass airports at DA of 2,000' at
take-off weight of 1130 lbs with no worries in our similarly equipped Allegro
with prop pitch set for best cruise.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195976#195976
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/take_off_perf_115.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000 |
Thom:
Many thanks for your input. I just needed some independent feedback on the whole
matter relative to the Allegro 2000. I will check the TO roll with the MTOW
to see what I get.
With regards,
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Take-off Distance for Allegro 2000
Hugh,
Attached is a scanned image of a graph from my old Cherokee 140 operator's manual.
It shows the relationship among varying density altitudes and take-off weights.
I can not tell you with any certainty that the relationship will be similar
or not on your Allegro, but it is worth reviewing nonetheless.
That said, I have operated out of 2,000' long grass airports at DA of 2,000' at
take-off weight of 1130 lbs with no worries in our similarly equipped Allegro
with prop pitch set for best cruise.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195976#195976
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/take_off_perf_115.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing Inspection/Lubrication |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
If you see a very small gap in the brake pad and the disc that is ok. It is not
ok if it causes you to pump your brakes to get them to contact the disc to slow
you down.
If your wheel spins smoothly and has no play back and forth in the bearings when
you grab the wheel when it is jacked up off the ground you should be ok. If
it spins part way and has around or stops it means your bearing is probably starting
to go or it could have had water in the bearing area. That doesn't mean
you drove through any water you may live in a very humid climate. You may have
a bearing starting to wear a little too much.
The best way to really check the bearings and axial is of course to take it off
and inspect it. If you put your finger in the bearing and turn the wheel you
will have a better feel about the rough spots in the bearing and race.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196074#196074
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | 91 octane, time to be heard! |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
If you are happy with just 100LL stop here. You won't like where this is going.
This effects us all even in other countries because one tends to follow the other
at some point.
If you are tired of someone saying we can't have 91 octane, read on. It's time
to pick a side and take 5 minutes to email. Our lives as people are good because
someone didn't just say ok. Some took the time to make change and made it better
for all of us. If we choose to sit on the sideline and just go along then
we deserve what we get. I would implore all to take a minute and email these
two people and any other fuel administrator in other companies. I will post on
as many aviation websites as possible and I would you all to pick a side and
stand up to be heard and maybe, just maybe we might effect change. I for one
don't want to roll over. You are about to read a bulletin about the use of Chevron
ground fuel verses aviation fuel. Then I have a response.
Don't sit back and pick my memo apart, use that time to write your own and be heard.
Post this on all your aviation websites. Let them hear a nation wide voice.
Send your emails to:
LIMG(at)chevron.com
kayalbitz(at)chevron.com
or any other fuel company administrator.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197008#197008
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ryan_memo_640.doc
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2008_04_2008_04_bulletin_2008_04_chevron_position_autogas_for_aviation_use_157.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Everyone,
Every website I posted on and I sent the letters to Flight Design have people
speaking up in support. I have received dozens of emails in support and that is
just since last night.
One voice will dye, but thousands may be heard.
Everyone,
Don't sit ideally and complain. 1-2 minutes of your time is all anyone is asking.
It's your future and your time to offer your hand in a worthwhile effort to
help shape it. Do it for yourself if not for anyone else.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197123#197123
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
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--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197463#197463
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Gentlemen:
I have an Allegro 2000, and am experiencing some fuel leakage out of the
main belly tank fuel cap (Plug). I believe the fuel is leaking out of the
key slot where you lock the fuel cap. At least the indication is that it is
coming from the key slot. There are streaks of fuel stain along the side of
the fuselage, and the source is clearly coming from the key slot. When the
cap is in place, closed and locked, the orientation of the key slot is at
three o'clock, and the plastic tab that rotates is at nine o'clock. Can some
one tell me if they have had a problem like this? Could I have the cap
itself rotated to the wrong position (i.e. is the key slot suppose to be at
a different position on the clock when the cap is in place and closed?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amy Hackworth" <splashlanding(at)comcast.net> |
Hugh,
I have a 2006 Allegro 2000 and had the same cap leakage problem. I
ended up sealing the keyhole with form a gasket and it leaked only a
tiny bit afterward and then has sealed itself for good. Aircraft Spruce
offers the same cap without the lock if you want to spend the money.
I am having problems with the fuel tank bleeder on the belly of the
plane. It keeps getting clogged with large black particles (nearly
every time I check the fuel for water). I can't figure out where they
are coming from, but have to remove the mechanism and blow it out each
time because it won't spring back up and seal. I thought it might be
the black silicone the fuel level sensor is held in with, but after
removing the remainder of that material I'm still getting particles. By
the way, I flushed the tank twice before filling the first time and have
checked the fuel cans as well. Incidently, I have changed the o ring to
the latest version and can see that it is still in good shape. Any
ideas???
Dale Hackworth
2006 Allegro 2000 Amphib
N306AD
Hobe Sound, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Dale:
Do I understand you just forgot about locking the fuel cap and completely
sealed the key hole? If you did what did you use to seal it with that would
not deteriate from coming in contact with gasoline? Is "Form a Gasket" a
material? Please explain this in more detail.
I understand the fiberglass belly tank of the Allegro is coated, or "lined"
inside with some type of material to prevent the fuel from coming in contact
with the fiberglass itself. The black material may be part of this lining. I
am guessing, but that is all I can think of at this point. I hope it is not
the lining, because I don't know how one would fix that type problem. Have
you asked The US Distributor if this has ever occurred before? However,
based on my experience with them, you won't get an answer.
Hugh McKay
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Amy Hackworth
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 7:08 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Fuel Cap Leak
Hugh,
I have a 2006 Allegro 2000 and had the same cap leakage problem. I ended up
sealing the keyhole with form a gasket and it leaked only a tiny bit
afterward and then has sealed itself for good. Aircraft Spruce offers the
same cap without the lock if you want to spend the money.
I am having problems with the fuel tank bleeder on the belly of the plane.
It keeps getting clogged with large black particles (nearly every time I
check the fuel for water). I can't figure out where they are coming from,
but have to remove the mechanism and blow it out each time because it won't
spring back up and seal. I thought it might be the black silicone the fuel
level sensor is held in with, but after removing the remainder of that
material I'm still getting particles. By the way, I flushed the tank twice
before filling the first time and have checked the fuel cans as well.
Incidently, I have changed the o ring to the latest version and can see that
it is still in good shape. Any ideas???
Dale Hackworth
2006 Allegro 2000 Amphib
N306AD
Hobe Sound, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amy Hackworth" <splashlanding(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Fuel Cap Leakage |
Hugh,
Yes, I did seal off the key hole on my fuel cap. I will be at the
hangar tomorrow and will forward the exact name of the material I used.
Yes, I did contact Allegro about the black particals, but they reported
no trouble on any of their planes. I'll keep studying the situation and
will let everyone know if I find a solution.
Thanks,
Dale Hackworth
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap Leak |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
The fuel pickup tube and the finger strainer has a black colored sealant around
it where it penetrates the tank. That is the stuff you are probably seeing. Ours
did the same thing for quite a while but finally quit when it ran out of loose
material sloughing off. When taking a sample from the sump to test for fuel
contamination you can mitigate the problem by making sure you open it wide
and quickly draining out a good bit of fuel and then closing it quickly. This
ensures the flow rate is maximum which tends to flush out the black stuff that
has settled in the sump cup.
--------
Thom Riddle
N221FA Allegro 2000 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197666#197666
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Amy Hackworth" <splashlanding(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Fuel Sump Leakage |
Hey Thom,
Thanks for the idea about the black particles. I inspected the inside
of the tank (I thought thouroughly) after this started happening and
didn't notice anything around the strainer, but it may have been purged
before I looked.
My sump is the kind that pushes up with a little rod attached to the cup
and is spring loaded. It seems the particles are lodging between the
two surfaces that seal against each other. It's kind of a pain to
remove it each time this happens. Maybe I'll be as lucky as you and
this will stop in a short period of time.
I'll keep you posted.
Dale Hackworth
2006 Allegro 2000
N306AD
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: October Page Az. LSA Fly-In |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
We would like more Allegro's to come.
Just got off the phone with Mitchell from the Best Western at Lake Powell.
Here is the number for the Best Western at Lake Powell.
208 N. Lake Powell Blvd.
928-645-5988
I had a gentleman call me and said no one had heard of the CT group for reservations.
We have that straightened out. I had talked to a manager months ago that
isn't there any more. Things are good now. The newer manager Mitchell said that
when you call after tomorrow, plus anyone that has a reservation that says
they are with us when they get there Oct. 16th. will only be charged $52.95.
There normal rates are $69.95.
They only have 22 rooms left for our time period. This is also prime time for bus
tours through there. The original Best Western had 52 rooms and they have been
gone for some time now.
I can not stress enough that if you think you are going to go call and make reservations
now. You can cancel later if it turns out you can't go. There seems
like there are going to be other LSA there.
Because this thing seems to be taking on a life of its own I am going to fly up
there in the middle of Sept. to make sure we have and can get large enough areas
at the local restaurants and hotels for all of us to be together. That's the
plan anyway.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198046#198046
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <airgriff(at)surferz.net> |
Hi Guys, we just received a new Allegro, which I flew up from N.C. to
Freehold, near Albany NY. I was stuck in Cape May for 2 days because of
weather and finally got out this morning. If anyone is looking for a new
one
they can give me a holler. This has blue and gray colors over white, and
all
the goodies such as a Garmin 396, ems, and a glass cockpit, along with
the
80 hp.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin Berne NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Threadcharmer(at)cs.com |
Hey Hugh,
The substance I used to seal my fuel cap is Permatex 2 Form A Gasket Sealant.
Another item I keep in my hangar is that putty type epoxy that you knead
with your fingers. I think that would work just as well. Hope one of these
works for you.
Dale Hackworth
2006 Allegro 2000 Amphib
N306AD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | WoodComp 3 blade Prop |
I have had questions on this prop before, but here is another. The leading
edge protective tape on the three blades has almost come completely off due
to the centrifugal force of the rotating prop. There is a sticky adhesive
residue left on the leading edge where the tape was located. I plan to
replace he protective tape, but in the meantime can I simply remove the
remaining tape, and remove the adhesive with some "Goof Off" remover? This
will keep the leading edge contour smooth.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: WoodComp 3 blade Prop |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
Yes that product will work fine. If you run into a problem you could even use a
little lacquer thinner, but very lightly and then use a little soap and water
to wash any residue off. If you plan on leaving the tape off very long or after
you put new tape back on you should balance your prop again. It will be off
balance and especially if you have had the prop on for quite some time.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199038#199038
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Hugh,
My airplane is the one that was wrecked in Sanford in 2006. It has been
rebuilt, but is re-registered as an E-LSA. The wings are still in primer,
but so far everything is performing fine other than a plastic brake line
that broke a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it hot too hot at the
caliper and had a "blow-out". I wonder if this has happened to anyone else.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Stall Warning System for the Allegro 2000 |
I have a Fantasy Air, Allegro 2000 E-LSA which has most of the stall warning
system (proper ASI, pressure switch, all the pneumatic tubing) installed,
but not all of it. When I ordered the plane (Quick-Build Kit) I ordered the
entire stall warning system, but never received the electronic circuit
board, with LED, audible buzzers, etc. My ASI is the correct type that
interfaces (pneumatically and electrically) with the rest of the system, and
is properly installed and connected, but I cannot finish the system without
the electronic circuit board. I have been unsuccessful in getting the
circuit board from the US Distributor, so I found another Allegro builder
who ordered the same system, and he sent me detail photographs of the
circuit board that came from the manufacturer. From that information we have
built a similar circuit board with LED, resistor, and buzzers, and connected
it to the rest of the system based on the little to no information we had in
the assembly manual.
We have made two test flights with the "homemade system" and it worked, but
the Red LED and Buzzers stay on from the time you turn on the ignition key
until you near take off speed (aprx. 45 mph IAS), then they go off. This
doesn't seem to be correct. We did full flap stall tests at about 3000 feet
altitude by slowing the plane gradually with a nose high attitude, and the
plane stalled at aprx. 52 mph IAS, but the LED and Buzzers never came on.
Our normal landing speed is 65 mph IAS with full flaps. Evidently the system
requires adjusting some how, but I do not know how to adjust it since no
instructions or information was provided by the manufacturer or Distributor.
I notice that the ASI has a knob on it similar to an altimeter adjusting
knob. The knob has a brass wire loop through it so it can't be turned. I
don't know if this is factory set, or if it is to be adjusted in the field.
I have been told that this knob is for adjusting, or calibrating the stall
speed during test flights. I am in uncharted territory here, and at this
point am hoping that some of you that have the Allegro 2000 stall warning
system can help me. I first need to have some confirmation as to what the
knob on the ASI is for? Is it indeed for adjusting/calibrating the stall
speed? Has this already been done at the factory? If not, what is the
procedure for doing the calibration during flight? Second, the electrical
pressure switch that is connected to the pneumatic system has a very small
screw on it which appears to be another point of adjustment. Is this
pressure switch set at the factory, or does it require field adjustment. If
it requires field (in flight) adjustment, I don't see how that can be done
since it is mounted behind the instrument panel.
I would appreciate any and all the help you can give me as to how to
correctly connect this system, and the procedure to calibrate it.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000 - Stall Warning System |
Paul:
I just posted another solicitation on Sept. 6 for information on the above
subject on the Allegro Forum, but thought I would follow up directly with
you concerning an earlier email I received from you on May 26, 2008 on the
same subject. In that email you told me that your red/green LED stopped
working within a few hours. You did not state if you found out what the
problem was, or if you got it working again. If you read my latest post
(Sept. 6, 08) on the Allegro Forum you will find out where I am in getting
my system working. By the way I never got the photos you referred to in your
May '08 email.
What I would like to ask you is did you have to calibrate your stall warning
system in flight by using the small black knob on the ASI? It is my
understanding that one must use this knob to calibrate the system. If this
is true, I have no procedure telling me how to do this. Also, the black knob
on my ASI appears to be loose and has a small brass wire through is which is
twisted together. If your plane came "ready to fly" the calibration may have
already been done by the factory during the test flight. Without some
direction or instruction, I am at a loss as to what to do with this knob, if
anything. We have now finally figured out the electronic part of the system
and are making corrections to circuit board circuitry. Please read my Sept.
6, 08 post along with this note and tell me what you can about the
calibration of the system. By copy I am putting this note to you up on the
Allegro Forum hoping for some good feed back. Many thanks in advance.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas R. Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | sold our Allegro |
We sold our Allegro s/n 03-202 (N221FA) to Brad Kramer of North
Dakota, who has been monitoring this list. I think he will be posting
questions and hope that the list will be helpful to him.
Au Revoir
Thom Riddle
Fly Lite, Inc.
RANS S6S Tailwheel
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: sold our Allegro |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Thom,
Sorry to see you go. Hope you come back some day. It was nice conversing with you
and discussing ideas.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5185#205185
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas R. Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: sold our Allegro |
Roger,
I"m not going anywhere and plan to continue monitoring this list even
though I no longer own an Allegro, which is a good airplane but I was
ready to move on to something else.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: sold our Allegro |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey Thom,
If you are going to continue to fly you might want to try a Flight Design CTSW
or LS model. It's roomy, carries a lot of weight, long range, fast and has baggage
storage.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5277#205277
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: sold our Allegro |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Roger,
We replaced the Allegro with a RANS S6S Taildragger Exp. Am. Built. One of the
reasons for this is that we wanted the flexibility of Experimental and also we
are all old taildragger pilots succumbing to a fit of nostalgia. We are happy
with the new airplane.
--------
Thom Riddle
CFI-SP
Power Plant Mechanic
N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5302#205302
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "theo van duin" <t.j.vanduin(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg. |
Fellow-Allegro-owners / Mr. Thom Riddle,
Since one month I am the possessor of an Allegro 2000, built in 2001, which
I bought from a
first owner in the Netherlands. I'm located in France. After the purchase I
found your Allegro list
on the internet. I went through all your mails and would very much like to
join you as a member
of the list.
At the innerside of the left gear leg I found a crack about 4 inches from
the clamping area over
the total width of the leg. Too risky to keep flying!
Replacing both gear legs by stronger (and .1 inch thicker) ones is possible,
but this requires to
remove partially .025 inch of material at both sides of the legs (the
thickness) and also to
remove this material from the mating socket surfaces on the fuselage.
I quote Thom when he concludes that lastmentioned job is going to be no fun
at all and don't
know whether Thom and myself are the only ones to deal with this problem
until now.
I could not find any follow-up info about his rework- and replacement job on
the Allegro list
and am very interested to learn more about his experiences in this matter.
On the other hand, as only one leg of my plane is damaged, and so many
Allegro's are still
flying with the old design legs, why shouldn't I try to find a replacement
leg of the original size?
Any comments in this matter is very much appreciated! ( I would like to fly
again asap and safe).
Theo van Duin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "theo van duin" <t.j.vanduin(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, spare parts availability |
Fellow-Allegro listers,
In an email of Mr. Tim Moses of November 20, 2007, that's on the Allegro
list,
his Danish dealer reported the bankruptcy of Fantasy Air Czech per November
9th.
How is the situation now after nearly one year? Did they start-up
production again?
A sales employee of Comlet Czech, the enterprise that's making the landing
gear legs,
told me that production of the Allegro aircraft has been started in the
United States.
Where can I go to for spare parts? Most (or all) former dealers of the
Allegro, which
I found on a dealerlist dated 2008 of X-Air Australia (see below), are no
longer selling Allegro aircraft.
http://www.mcp.com.au/allegro/links.html
Can anyone of you tell me if there is any Allegro production going on, and
if yes, where?
Are there new or old Allegro dealers, that could be contacted? If yes, who?
I do need the following parts:-- Y-extension for control stick (for pilot
training)
-- Stall warning system kit
-- Instrument panel, blank
-- Landing gear leg of original
(thinner) design (eventually)
Thanks a lot for your reply,
Theo van Duin (France)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, spare parts availability |
Theo:
I live in the USA and own an Allegro 2000 which I built from a Kit in 2005
and 2006. I was aware that the original Czech company went bankrupt, but I
thought they were back in business. I had not heard that the Allegro is
being manufactured here in the US. I don't know how true that is. I would be
nice if it were true. The sole distributor of the Allegro (B bar D Aviation)
in the USA is located in Sanford, North Carolina. You can find them on the
web at www.fantasyairusa.com <http://www.fantasyairusa.com/> . They list
only one dealer and he is in Arizona, but I do believe that they will sell
direct to Allegro owners. If you can't get spare parts in Europe, you may be
able to get them from Fantasyairusa.com. You can get all the specifics from
their web site. Good luck.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
Located at N92 near Maiden, NC
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of theo van duin
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 1:33 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Allegro 2000, spare parts availability
Fellow-Allegro listers,
In an email of Mr. Tim Moses of November 20, 2007, that's on the Allegro
list,
his Danish dealer reported the bankruptcy of Fantasy Air Czech per November
9th.
How is the situation now after nearly one year? Did they start-up
production again?
A sales employee of Comlet Czech, the enterprise that's making the landing
gear legs,
told me that production of the Allegro aircraft has been started in the
United States.
Where can I go to for spare parts? Most (or all) former dealers of the
Allegro, which
I found on a dealerlist dated 2008 of X-Air Australia (see below), are no
longer selling Allegro aircraft.
http://www.mcp.com.au/allegro/links.html
Can anyone of you tell me if there is any Allegro production going on, and
if yes, where?
Are there new or old Allegro dealers, that could be contacted? If yes, who?
I do need the following parts:-- Y-extension for control stick (for pilot
training)
-- Stall warning system kit
-- Instrument panel, blank
-- Landing gear leg of original
(thinner) design (eventually)
Thanks a lot for your reply,
Theo van Duin (France)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "theo van duin" <t.j.vanduin(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, instrument panel |
Fellow-Allegro listers,
Thanks to Hugh for his reply on my "spare parts availability" questions on
the Allegro-list.
I did sent an email with the same questions to sales(at)fantasyairusa.com and
do hope
they will respond to me, being a European Allegro owner.
All together I do have an orphanige feeling, related to the reported an
experienced lack of
support and lack of customer info from Fantasy Air and dealers.
The Allegro 2000, I bought one month ago, has a plywood instrument panel.
Because of
moisture influences (the plane was hangered in a half open shed) the
plywood is partly
delaminated.
I would like to replace the panel bij an aluminum part. If I can't buy a
blank, or if this piece
of sheetmetal appeares to be very expensive, I want to make one myself.
--- What might be the thickness of the designed alu instrument panel?
--- Is there somewhere a dimensional drawing available of the blank panel,
of which
I could get a copy?
Thanks for your reply,
Theo van Duin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, instrument panel |
Theo:
I received the blank aluminum panel in my kit. I designed and laid out all
of my instruments using an Auto Cad program and had the openings for all the
instruments and avionics cut on a laser machine. I still have the drawing. I
will look to see if I can give you the panel thickness as well as the
outline of the blank panel. If you cannot get enough measurments off of your
old panel to duplicate it, I'll try to measure mine. As you will see the top
and ends of the panel are a compound curve. I'll get back in touch with you.
As a matter of interest, attached are a few pictures of my panel.
Hugh
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of theo van duin
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 5:40 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Allegro 2000, instrument panel
Fellow-Allegro listers,
Thanks to Hugh for his reply on my "spare parts availability" questions on
the Allegro-list.
I did sent an email with the same questions to sales(at)fantasyairusa.com and
do hope
they will respond to me, being a European Allegro owner.
All together I do have an orphanige feeling, related to the reported an
experienced lack of
support and lack of customer info from Fantasy Air and dealers.
The Allegro 2000, I bought one month ago, has a plywood instrument panel.
Because of
moisture influences (the plane was hangered in a half open shed) the
plywood is partly
delaminated.
I would like to replace the panel bij an aluminum part. If I can't buy a
blank, or if this piece
of sheetmetal appeares to be very expensive, I want to make one myself.
--- What might be the thickness of the designed alu instrument panel?
--- Is there somewhere a dimensional drawing available of the blank panel,
of which
I could get a copy?
Thanks for your reply,
Theo van Duin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <airgriff(at)surferz.net> |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000, spare parts availabilityAllegro 2000, |
spare parts availability
Hi Hugh and gang. There is an Arizona dealer for Allegro on Fantasy Airs
web
site and there is an arrow that scrolls down to show another 11. I help
Lee
Ramsdell out at L and L light Sport aviation, the dealer for NY CT and
New
England states. 3 weeks ago I flew a new Allegro up from Sanford Lee to
NY.
At that time Doug Hemsted mentioned that they were bringing the
manufacturing to the states and that NC was one of 2 spots they were
looking
at. Planes are still being built and shipped from the Czechs Republic
and
when the move takes place there will be a 2 week delay in production.
All of
our parts come through B Bar D.
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg. |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hello Theo,
We replaced both main gear legs on our Allegro. It turned out to be less trouble
than I had expected. We did NOT remove any material from the sockets where the
gear legs fit into the fuselage. All the material removal was from the gear
legs themselves where they fit into the sockets. We used a powered belt sander
for this work and it went more quickly than I had anticipated. I suggest you
do the work carefully, removing equal amounts of material, as required, from
opposite sides and opposite edges. Sand and test the fitting, then sand some more
and test again. Do not remove more material than necessary to get the leg
to fit.
Once you have them fitting nicely, I suggest you put a piece of thin rubber (like
the material that a tire inner tube is made of) above the leg where it contacts
the outboard part of the fuselage socket. Without this rubber, the bending
leg makes contact with that sharp edge at the top of the socket putting unnecessary
and undue amounts of stress on the upper part of the gear leg. The strip
of rubber, perhaps 3-4 cm wide and the full width of the socket, should be
glued in place on the upper surface of the gear leg or to the inside of the socket
in that area. It does not have to stick outside the socket, which would be
ugly, but it must come close to the outside edge of the socket to absorb the
stresses of the bending gear leg.
After replacing the gear legs in this manner we flew the airplane more than 300
hours with no more gear leg trouble, before selling the airplane last month.
--------
Thom Riddle
CFI-SP
Power Plant Mechanic
N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7522#207522
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Rating of the Main Landing Gear |
Gentlemen:
I am copying on this post the email message and question I sent to the US
Distributor of the Allegro. I have not received an answer yet, but will
forward it on when I get one. In the meantime, I felt that those of you who
own Allegros might want to look into this matter on your own, or if any one
of you has the answer I would deeply appreciate an explanation. If I am in
error in my email, I also will accept a quick correction. A copy of the
email follows:
Matt/Doug:
I understand that the main landing gear for the Allegro is manufactured by
the Czech company COMLET s.r.o. On their website they list the Allegro 2000
as having their landing gear Type NK-03A. According to their technical
information this gear is rated for a MTOW of 1050 lbs. (475kg). The Allegro
2000 is sold and licensed in the USA as a LSA having a MTOW of 1232 lbs.
(460kg), and the Allegro 2007 has a MTOW of 1320 (493kg). Both of these
MTOWs are higher than the published MTOW for this gear. Why do the Allegro
2000 and the 2007 have main landing gears rated less than the actual MTOW of
each Allegro model?
Hugh McKay
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "theo van duin" <t.j.vanduin(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Fwd: Allegro 2000, spare parts availability |
Fellow-Allegro listers,
There are answers on my questions about spare parts availability for the
Allegro 2000
from Mrs. Betty Hempstead of B Bar D Aviation.
For your information and reassurance I put her reactions on the Allegro
list. Nice to hear that the Allegro labyrinth might have an exit somewhere.
Theo van Duin (France)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Betty Hempstead <betty@b-bar-daviation.com>
Date: 2008/10/7
Subject: RE: Allegro 2000, spare parts availability
*Betty Hempstead*
B Bar D Aviation, Inc.
d/b/a Fantasy Air USA
Sanford-Lee County Regional Airport (TTA)
705 Rod Sullivan Road
Sanford, North Carolina 27330
(p) 919-775-2224
(f) 919-775-2232
(e) betty@b-bar-daviation.com
-----Original Message-----
*From:* theo van duin [mailto:t.j.vanduin(at)gmail.com]
*Sent:* Saturday, October 04, 2008 3:25 PM
*To:* sales(at)fantasyairusa.com
*Subject:* Allegro 2000, spare parts availability
Dear Mr. and Mrs.Hempstead,
In an message from Mr. Tim Moses of November 20, 2007, on the Matronics
Allegro list,
his Danish dealer reported the bankruptcy of Fantasy Air Czech per November
9th.
How is the situation now after nearly one year? We are finishing the
paperwork to buy Fantasy Air.
Did they start-up production again? Production will start up again, after
the training is completed around December 1.
A sales employee of Comlet Czech, the enterprise that's making the landing
gear legs,
told me that production of the Allegro aircraft has been continued in the
United States.
Where can I go to for spare parts? We will be able to supply spare parts in
a few months.
Most (or all) former dealers of the Allegro, which
I found on a dealerlist dated 2008 of X-Air Australia (see below), are no
longer selling Allegro aircraft.
http://www.mcp.com.au/allegro/links.html
We anticipate that there will be a resurgence of Allegro dealers in the
near future.
Can you please tell me if there is any Allegro production going on, and if
yes, where? The new company is finishing the legalities.
Are there new or old Allegro dealers, that could be contacted? If yes, who?
We will be the World Wide Distributor of Allegros and spare parts.
I do need the following parts:-- Y-extension for control stick (for pilot
training)
-- Stall warning system kit
-- Instrument panel, blank
-- Landing gear leg of original
(thinner) design (eventually)
Theo, I will keep you list active and put your order in as the production
begins. We will need your shipping address and payment in US$ 5 days before
shipping.
Thanks a lot for your reply,
Theo van Duin (France)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Carpenter <n3081x(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rating of the Main Landing Gear |
Could it be as simple as 1050 lbs per leg giving a total of 2100 llbs for the two
legs combined?
--- On Tue, 10/7/08, hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
From: hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Allegro-List: Rating of the Main Landing Gear
Date: Tuesday, October 7, 2008, 9:50 AM
Gentlemen:
I am copying on this post the email message and question I sent to the US
Distributor of the Allegro. I have not received an answer yet, but will
forward it on when I get one. In the meantime, I felt that those of you who
own Allegros might want to look into this matter on your own, or if any one
of you has the answer I would deeply appreciate an explanation. If I am in
error in my email, I also will accept a quick correction. A copy of the
email follows:
Matt/Doug:
I understand that the main landing gear for the Allegro is manufactured by
the Czech company COMLET s.r.o. On their website they list the Allegro 2000
as having their landing gear Type NK-03A. According to their technical
information this gear is rated for a MTOW of 1050 lbs. (475kg). The Allegro
2000 is sold and licensed in the USA as a LSA having a MTOW of 1232 lbs.
(460kg), and the Allegro 2007 has a MTOW of 1320 (493kg). Both of these
MTOWs are higher than the published MTOW for this gear. Why do the Allegro
2000 and the 2007 have main landing gears rated less than the actual MTOW of
each Allegro model?
Hugh McKay
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "theo van duin" <t.j.vanduin(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg |
Thom,
Thank you for your explanation about how you replaced the gear legs of the
Allegro 2000.
It's very reassuring that one doesn't need to be a magician to do the job.
After I found the Matronics Allegro list, I started to read all emails and
read also your mail about the gear leg cracks. Then I checked my plane and
found a crack at the same position as you described. I'm not pleased that I
saw the crack, but very pleased that you rang the bell! On my behalf, thanks
for all your contributions to the Allegro list!
Theo van Duin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg |
Theo
How many hours are on your 2001 Allegro 2000 airframe? Do you think you will
be able to get enough dimensions duplicate the shape of your panel? If you
don't, I can send you a full size hard copy of the early working drawings I
made in laying out my instruments. That full size drawing has the outline of
the aluminum panel and the location of the 10 holes for attaching the panel
to the dash. You can just trace the outline on a new aluminum sheet.
Unfortunately I would have to send it to you via "snail mail", but I would
be willing to do so if you need it.
Hugh McKay
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of theo van duin
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 5:23 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg
Thom,
Thank you for your explanation about how you replaced the gear legs of the
Allegro 2000.
It's very reassuring that one doesn't need to be a magician to do the job.
After I found the Matronics Allegro list, I started to read all emails and
read also your mail about the gear leg cracks. Then I checked my plane and
found a crack at the same position as you described. I'm not pleased that I
saw the crack, but very pleased that you rang the bell! On my behalf, thanks
for all your contributions to the Allegro list!
Theo van Duin
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:41 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "theo van duin" <t.j.vanduin(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg |
Hugh,
According to the records my 2001 Allegro 2000 has 140 hours on airframe and
motor.
The airplane did not fly at all for more than two and a half years because
of incapability of the former owner. The plane suffered more from hangering
than from flying.
I don't think I'm able to get the dimensions from my plywood instrument
panel with
sufficient accuracy, while the panel is still on the plane. I would be very
pleased to recieve a full size hard copy from you by mail. This would be a
great help to me.
Could you give me an indication about the thickness of the alu panel?
My address in France: Theo van Duin
Les Cargeots
71550 Cussy en Morvan
France
Thank you so much for your help,
Theo
2008/10/8 Hugh
> Theo
>
>
> How many hours are on your 2001 Allegro 2000 airframe? Do you think you
> will be able to get enough dimensions duplicate the shape of your panel? If
> you don't, I can send you a full size hard copy of the early working
> drawings I made in laying out my instruments. That full size drawing has the
> outline of the aluminum panel and the location of the 10 holes for attaching
> the panel to the dash. You can just trace the outline on a new aluminum
> sheet. Unfortunately I would have to send it to you via "snail mail", but I
> would be willing to do so if you need it.
>
>
> Hugh McKay
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *theo van duin
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 07, 2008 5:23 PM
> *To:* allegro-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Allegro-List: Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg
>
>
> Thom,
>
> Thank you for your explanation about how you replaced the gear legs of the
> Allegro 2000.
> It's very reassuring that one doesn't need to be a magician to do the job.
>
> After I found the Matronics Allegro list, I started to read all emails and
> read also your mail about the gear leg cracks. Then I checked my plane and
> found a crack at the same position as you described. I'm not pleased that I
> saw the crack, but very pleased that you rang the bell! On my behalf, thanks
> for all your contributions to the Allegro list!
>
>
> Theo van Duin
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> 10/7/2008 9:41 AM
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg |
Theo:
I am sending you a full size hard copy of an early working drawing showing
the layout of my instrument panel. The outline of the edge of the aluminum
panel is colored in yellow. You should be able to cut the paper along this
line and have a template for the outer edge of the panel. As a precaution I
would suggest that after you remove your old panel, you carefully transfer
the location and size of the existing attaching holes on your panel and dash
to the new aluminum panel. Your holes may be different in size and location
than what is shown on my drawing. However, the panel outline should be the
same. Just check everything before you cut the new aluminum sheet. It the
moment I can't give you the thickness of the aluminum sheet used for the
panel because my panel is mounted in my airplane. However, I will get the
thickness and notify you via email before you get the drawing.
With regards,
Hugh McKay
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of theo van duin
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 5:53 AM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg
Hugh,
According to the records my 2001 Allegro 2000 has 140 hours on airframe and
motor.
The airplane did not fly at all for more than two and a half years because
of incapability of the former owner. The plane suffered more from hangering
than from flying.
I don't think I'm able to get the dimensions from my plywood instrument
panel with
sufficient accuracy, while the panel is still on the plane. I would be very
pleased to recieve a full size hard copy from you by mail. This would be a
great help to me.
Could you give me an indication about the thickness of the alu panel?
My address in France: Theo van Duin
Les Cargeots
71550 Cussy en Morvan
France
Thank you so much for your help,
Theo
2008/10/8 Hugh
Theo
How many hours are on your 2001 Allegro 2000 airframe? Do you think you will
be able to get enough dimensions duplicate the shape of your panel? If you
don't, I can send you a full size hard copy of the early working drawings I
made in laying out my instruments. That full size drawing has the outline of
the aluminum panel and the location of the 10 holes for attaching the panel
to the dash. You can just trace the outline on a new aluminum sheet.
Unfortunately I would have to send it to you via "snail mail", but I would
be willing to do so if you need it.
Hugh McKay
_____
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of theo van duin
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 5:23 PM
Subject: Allegro-List: Allegro 2000, cracked gear leg
Thom,
Thank you for your explanation about how you replaced the gear legs of the
Allegro 2000.
It's very reassuring that one doesn't need to be a magician to do the job.
After I found the Matronics Allegro list, I started to read all emails and
read also your mail about the gear leg cracks. Then I checked my plane and
found a crack at the same position as you described. I'm not pleased that I
saw the crack, but very pleased that you rang the bell! On my behalf, thanks
for all your contributions to the Allegro list!
Theo van Duin
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:01 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Rating of the Main Landing Gear |
Gentlemen:
Referring to my earlier 10/7/08 email on this subject, I have finally
received an answer from the US Distributor. That answer follows:
"If your Allegro was manufactured after mid 1990 it does not have the COMLET
landing gear legs. Fantasy Air did try to work with this company prior to
that date but found their quality to be less than ideal. The old COMLET gear
legs were solid composite. All Allegro legs after mid 1990 are manufactured
by Fantasy Air and have a tubular internal structure to add strength w/o
adding weight. If any of you want to verify the type landing gear on your
plane lift up the seat and look at the top end of the landing gear leg
underneath. If it has a hollow structure (actually 3 tubes of composite) -
most likely plugged with low density foam- the gear was NOT made by COMLET".
Hugh McKay
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Tim: I just received the prop tape sold by Powerfin and will be putting it
on my Woodcomp prop this week. I will let you know how it performs. By the
way, where are you located? Also, what were the circumstances surrounding
the wrecking of the Allegro at Sanford?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
My airplane is the one that was wrecked in Sanford in 2006. It has been
rebuilt, but is re-registered as an E-LSA. The wings are still in primer,
but so far everything is performing fine other than a plastic brake line
that broke a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it hot too hot at the
caliper and had a "blow-out". I wonder if this has happened to anyone else.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:25 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Hugh,
I am located in Monroe, NC near the airport. The best I can tell, my
Allegro was wrecked by a student pilot during a crosswind landing at Sanford
Airport. After rebuilding the plane, I noticed that the aircraft only had
about 2/3 of the required rudder travel due to the rudder cables being
adjusted too tight. This might have contributed to the crash. I believe
these cables are rigged there at Sanford.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: I just received the prop tape sold by Powerfin and will be putting it
on my Woodcomp prop this week. I will let you know how it performs. By the
way, where are you located? Also, what were the circumstances surrounding
the wrecking of the Allegro at Sanford?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
My airplane is the one that was wrecked in Sanford in 2006. It has been
rebuilt, but is re-registered as an E-LSA. The wings are still in primer,
but so far everything is performing fine other than a plastic brake line
that broke a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it hot too hot at the
caliper and had a "blow-out". I wonder if this has happened to anyone else.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:25 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Tim:
I am located at Laney's Airport near Maiden, NC (N92). I did not know you
were so close to my location. Are you flying your plane yet? If not maybe I
could fly down and visit you some time. Since I built my Allegro 2000 it
also is an E-LSA.
Let me know.
Hugh McKay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I am located in Monroe, NC near the airport. The best I can tell, my
Allegro was wrecked by a student pilot during a crosswind landing at Sanford
Airport. After rebuilding the plane, I noticed that the aircraft only had
about 2/3 of the required rudder travel due to the rudder cables being
adjusted too tight. This might have contributed to the crash. I believe
these cables are rigged there at Sanford.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: I just received the prop tape sold by Powerfin and will be putting it
on my Woodcomp prop this week. I will let you know how it performs. By the
way, where are you located? Also, what were the circumstances surrounding
the wrecking of the Allegro at Sanford?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
My airplane is the one that was wrecked in Sanford in 2006. It has been
rebuilt, but is re-registered as an E-LSA. The wings are still in primer,
but so far everything is performing fine other than a plastic brake line
that broke a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it hot too hot at the
caliper and had a "blow-out". I wonder if this has happened to anyone else.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:25 PM
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Hugh,
I have flown to Laney's for the fly-in several times. My Allegro is not
flying yet although I have had it up to 65 MPH on the runway. I have not
changed the registration yet and have to have it inspected by the FAA for
the category change. My airstrip is 3 miles Northwest of Monroe airport and
is only 1275 feet long with some pretty tall obstructions on both ends. You
can see a picture of it on my web site www.tm-designs-online.com . I am
currently flying a Quicksilver GT-500 with an 80 HP Hirth F30 engine in it.
If you want to fly into Monroe Airport, I can pick you up and give you the
tour. If you think that your short field technique is good, you are welcome
to try my field. I am retired and at home most of the time.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 9:33 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim:
I am located at Laney's Airport near Maiden, NC (N92). I did not know you
were so close to my location. Are you flying your plane yet? If not maybe I
could fly down and visit you some time. Since I built my Allegro 2000 it
also is an E-LSA.
Let me know.
Hugh McKay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I am located in Monroe, NC near the airport. The best I can tell, my
Allegro was wrecked by a student pilot during a crosswind landing at Sanford
Airport. After rebuilding the plane, I noticed that the aircraft only had
about 2/3 of the required rudder travel due to the rudder cables being
adjusted too tight. This might have contributed to the crash. I believe
these cables are rigged there at Sanford.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: I just received the prop tape sold by Powerfin and will be putting it
on my Woodcomp prop this week. I will let you know how it performs. By the
way, where are you located? Also, what were the circumstances surrounding
the wrecking of the Allegro at Sanford?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
My airplane is the one that was wrecked in Sanford in 2006. It has been
rebuilt, but is re-registered as an E-LSA. The wings are still in primer,
but so far everything is performing fine other than a plastic brake line
that broke a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it hot too hot at the
caliper and had a "blow-out". I wonder if this has happened to anyone else.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:25 PM
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Tim:
Thank you for your reply, and your invitation to visit you and see the
Allegro you are finishing up. I also am a retired engineer (Civil). I
retired for Duke Power in 1993 after 30 years service and started a
consulting business that same year with a young Civil Engineer. After 12
years in that business I turned it over to my partner and retired for the
second time. I flew sailplanes for a sport many years ago and always wanted
to continue flying, but work and family came first so I let my sailplane
flying dwindle away. I did, and still hold a Private Rating in Sailplanes
(which is considered a Light Sport Aircraft).
I would like to fly down to see your Allegro. I would prefer to land at
Monroe rather than your short field. I am properly equipped to enter
Charlotte Class B air space, (i.e. radio, Transponder Mode C w/ alt encoder,
etc.); however I would choose to stay under the floor of Charlotte's Class B
airspace. What route would you suggest I take to come down to Monroe from
Laney's? I am planning to fly over to Shelby on Saturday for a fly-in (if
the weather holds), but would like to come down one day next week. Let me
know what day would be best for you.
Regards,
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 1:25 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I have flown to Laney's for the fly-in several times. My Allegro is not
flying yet although I have had it up to 65 MPH on the runway. I have not
changed the registration yet and have to have it inspected by the FAA for
the category change. My airstrip is 3 miles Northwest of Monroe airport and
is only 1275 feet long with some pretty tall obstructions on both ends. You
can see a picture of it on my web site www.tm-designs-online.com . I am
currently flying a Quicksilver GT-500 with an 80 HP Hirth F30 engine in it.
If you want to fly into Monroe Airport, I can pick you up and give you the
tour. If you think that your short field technique is good, you are welcome
to try my field. I am retired and at home most of the time.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 9:33 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim:
I am located at Laney's Airport near Maiden, NC (N92). I did not know you
were so close to my location. Are you flying your plane yet? If not maybe I
could fly down and visit you some time. Since I built my Allegro 2000 it
also is an E-LSA.
Let me know.
Hugh McKay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I am located in Monroe, NC near the airport. The best I can tell, my
Allegro was wrecked by a student pilot during a crosswind landing at Sanford
Airport. After rebuilding the plane, I noticed that the aircraft only had
about 2/3 of the required rudder travel due to the rudder cables being
adjusted too tight. This might have contributed to the crash. I believe
these cables are rigged there at Sanford.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: I just received the prop tape sold by Powerfin and will be putting it
on my Woodcomp prop this week. I will let you know how it performs. By the
way, where are you located? Also, what were the circumstances surrounding
the wrecking of the Allegro at Sanford?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
My airplane is the one that was wrecked in Sanford in 2006. It has been
rebuilt, but is re-registered as an E-LSA. The wings are still in primer,
but so far everything is performing fine other than a plastic brake line
that broke a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it hot too hot at the
caliper and had a "blow-out". I wonder if this has happened to anyone else.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:25 PM
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:29 AM
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "TIM MOSES" <tcmoses(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Woodcomp Three Blade Prop |
Hugh,
You are welcome any day that the weather suits you, just let me know a
little in advance. As to the route; I do not have a sectional in front of
me right now, but right off hand I would suggest a route to the North of
Charlotte staying under the Class B airspace. My address and phone number
are listed below. I also worked for Duke Power (11 years) and am also a
retired engineer, and did machine design up until 1982 when I retired due to
health issues.
Tim Moses
3115 Wesley Chapel Stouts Rd.
Monroe, NC 28110
704-289-1645
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 10:03 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim:
Thank you for your reply, and your invitation to visit you and see the
Allegro you are finishing up. I also am a retired engineer (Civil). I
retired for Duke Power in 1993 after 30 years service and started a
consulting business that same year with a young Civil Engineer. After 12
years in that business I turned it over to my partner and retired for the
second time. I flew sailplanes for a sport many years ago and always wanted
to continue flying, but work and family came first so I let my sailplane
flying dwindle away. I did, and still hold a Private Rating in Sailplanes
(which is considered a Light Sport Aircraft).
I would like to fly down to see your Allegro. I would prefer to land at
Monroe rather than your short field. I am properly equipped to enter
Charlotte Class B air space, (i.e. radio, Transponder Mode C w/ alt encoder,
etc.); however I would choose to stay under the floor of Charlotte's Class B
airspace. What route would you suggest I take to come down to Monroe from
Laney's? I am planning to fly over to Shelby on Saturday for a fly-in (if
the weather holds), but would like to come down one day next week. Let me
know what day would be best for you.
Regards,
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
N661WW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 1:25 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I have flown to Laney's for the fly-in several times. My Allegro is not
flying yet although I have had it up to 65 MPH on the runway. I have not
changed the registration yet and have to have it inspected by the FAA for
the category change. My airstrip is 3 miles Northwest of Monroe airport and
is only 1275 feet long with some pretty tall obstructions on both ends. You
can see a picture of it on my web site www.tm-designs-online.com . I am
currently flying a Quicksilver GT-500 with an 80 HP Hirth F30 engine in it.
If you want to fly into Monroe Airport, I can pick you up and give you the
tour. If you think that your short field technique is good, you are welcome
to try my field. I am retired and at home most of the time.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 9:33 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim:
I am located at Laney's Airport near Maiden, NC (N92). I did not know you
were so close to my location. Are you flying your plane yet? If not maybe I
could fly down and visit you some time. Since I built my Allegro 2000 it
also is an E-LSA.
Let me know.
Hugh McKay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I am located in Monroe, NC near the airport. The best I can tell, my
Allegro was wrecked by a student pilot during a crosswind landing at Sanford
Airport. After rebuilding the plane, I noticed that the aircraft only had
about 2/3 of the required rudder travel due to the rudder cables being
adjusted too tight. This might have contributed to the crash. I believe
these cables are rigged there at Sanford.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: I just received the prop tape sold by Powerfin and will be putting it
on my Woodcomp prop this week. I will let you know how it performs. By the
way, where are you located? Also, what were the circumstances surrounding
the wrecking of the Allegro at Sanford?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
My airplane is the one that was wrecked in Sanford in 2006. It has been
rebuilt, but is re-registered as an E-LSA. The wings are still in primer,
but so far everything is performing fine other than a plastic brake line
that broke a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it hot too hot at the
caliper and had a "blow-out". I wonder if this has happened to anyone else.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Tim: Thanks for the info on Powerfin. I will contact them today. One the
other matter, that does not surprise me at all. In fact I am surprised you
received it at all!! How is you airplane performing?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TIM MOSES
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
Hugh,
I replaced my tape with the tape used by the Powerfin propeller company. It
is more durable than the factory tape and does not show signs of creeping.
A note of interest that is off the subject...I ordered a flap eyebolt from
Sanford on May 2nd 2008; I received it today.
Tim Moses
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Woodcomp Three Blade Prop
I am interested in further comments on protecting the leading edge of the
WoodComp three blade prop. As stated before, the prop which is on my Allegro
2000 had what appeared to be black electrical tape on the leading edge. Over
time the centrifugal force of the rotating prop has caused he tape to creep
towards the tips of each blade to the point I have now removed the remaining
tape. This tape was on the leading edge to offer some protection during
operation. What has been the experience of others who have this prop and
tape on their aircraft. I have gotten some information about using a 3M tape
product, but would like to know what other alternatives may be available. I
am also interested in what type adhesive would be required to keep any other
type tape from creeping just as the original tape did.
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:25 PM
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:29 AM
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
7:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Threadcharmer(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Fuel Tank Issues |
Has anyone else experienced large black particles clogging their fuel
draining valve? I suspect these particles may be a deteriorating fuel tank lining.
When I check my fuel during my pre-flight, many times the valve on the
plane's belly will drip until I remove the thing completely and let a little fuel
out into a bucket. There are usually quite a few large (1/4'' square)
particles along with some black grit.
I use the same gas station to fill both my planes and have no problem with
the other one. B-Bar-D in North Carolina tells me I'm the only one complaining
of this. Could this problem be unique to a certain batch of airplanes? My
kit was delivered in June of 2006.
Any others having this experience?????
Dale Hackworth
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Issues |
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Dale,
We had a 2003 model Allegro 2000 and had the same issue. We emptied the tank and
looked inside. It appears to me that the black stuff is some sort of adhesive(maybe)
that is used to hold the fuel pick-up tube to the bottom of the tank.
I saw no obvious deterioration of the tank itself. We used predominantly ethanol-free
autogas.
The drain valve can usually be cleared of this stuff by holding it wide open, not
just cracked open, to get a good high speed/volume flush followed by quickly
closing the valve. This way, if the debris is small enough to pass through the
valve opening, it will and closing it quickly helps reduce the probability
of it closing on a piece of debris resulting in a dripping leak.
In our case, after a couple years, all the debris finally dissipated and was no
longer a problem.
Good luck with yours.
--------
Thom Riddle
CFI-SP
Power Plant Mechanic
N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9622#209622
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | BrightLine Bags Pilot Flight Bag |
From: | "BrightLine" <info(at)brightlinebags.com> |
Hello Everyone,
My name is Bryan Smith and I am with a company called BrightLine Bags. I do not want to offend anybody by posting on this list, so I apologize in advance if I have. I am a student pilot as well. I posted on the Commander list with the help of a Commander owner and received wonderful response from quite a few Commander owners. We make a brand new type of Pilot Flight Bag. It is like nothing you have seen or used before. If you use a flight bag, I am quite certain that if you go to our website at www.brightlinebags.com and click on the demo video http://brightlinebags.ipower.com/videopage.html, you will be impressed. Thank you everyone for this forum. If you have any questions, you can contact me directly at bryan@brightlinebags.com. Thanks again!
Bryan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210555#210555
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brightline_pilot_flight_bag_244.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com |
Subject: | Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation
and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through soley through the
Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible.
You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days
reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the
bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution counts.
Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with
the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided
by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and
have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/).
These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective
web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product
line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support
of the Lists again this year!!
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods
afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with
a qualifying Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below:
https://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really
do feel like family.
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Contribution Site URL Clarification |
Dear Listers,
In my List Fund Raiser kickoff email last night, I mistyped the URL for the *initial*
Contribution web site and couple of people reported receiving SSL certificate
errors. The actual payment entry pages where were correct, however, so
there were no certificate issues that impacted payment data. I'm sorry for the
confusion.
Please use the following URL to start your List Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of
these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying
Contribution too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for
the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes
a
Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will instantly
cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its
just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and
software that are required to run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for
the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill
to
keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of
the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to
control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance.
Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such
as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept
exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand
the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet
these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are
anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
I have an Allegro 2000 (S/N 713-04) which was manufactured in 2004. The
pitot tube, which is about 5 inches long, is located about half way up the
right hand wing strut. In my opinion Fantasy Air could not have picked a
worse location for the pitot tube. Here is why. As you know, right side
entry into the cockpit is just in front of the right strut, and when the
door is lifted and you are doing something inside the cockpit while standing
on the ground slightly bent over it is very easy to forget about the pitot
tube protruding out of the strut just behind you. One must be always
conscious of its location being very careful to avoid backing into it. Since
it is my airplane, I have become very conscious of it and am always careful
when working around the plane.
On two separate occasions I have had the pitot tube broken loose from the
small aluminum fairing that covers the main strut fairing. Both of these
incidents have happened at airfields where I had to leave my plane
unattended and tied down with warning flagging/cover on the pitot tube. One
was at a fly-in, the other at a major airport. I am sure I know what
happened in each case. Someone liking the appearance of the Allegro 2000 was
walking around it and looking through the side doors, and when they were on
the right side either backed into the protruding pitot tube or walked into
it while they were bent over.
I am planning to relocate the pitot tube on my plane. I notice that the new
2007 Allegros have the pitot tube located on the leading edge of the
vertical stabilizer (fin) near the horizontal stabilizer. I suspect that one
of the reasons it has been relocated is the problem I have just described.
My plan is to relocate my pitot tube to the same location on my plane. I
would put it on the leading edge of the wing, but I fear the same problem
because the wing is so low to the ground. My question is has this ever
happened to anyone else owning an Allegro 2000? If so, how have you
corrected the problem? Are there any inherent problems in relocating the
pitot tube to the vertical stabilizer (fin)?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas R. Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
Yes it happened to ours pretty much as you described. Our solution was
to cut off the pitot tube about 3/4" forward of its intersection with
the strut fairing, and connect the cut-off piece to the 3/4" stub with
a flexible hose of the proper size. This way, when someone hits it the
hose flexes and no damage results to either the pitot or the klutz
that ran into it.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thom:
What about the "flexibility of the connection? Would not the velocity of the
air stream tend to bend the tube one way or the other at the "flexible"
point causing it to deflect out of being parallel to the airflow causing an
erroneous air speed reading on the ASI?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas R.
Riddle
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Pitot Tube
Hugh,
Yes it happened to ours pretty much as you described. Our solution was
to cut off the pitot tube about 3/4" forward of its intersection with
the strut fairing, and connect the cut-off piece to the 3/4" stub with
a flexible hose of the proper size. This way, when someone hits it the
hose flexes and no damage results to either the pitot or the klutz
that ran into it.
Thom in Buffalo
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
8:59 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thom: As a follow up to my question, why not just leave the 3/4" projection
and forget about attaching the piece you cut off?
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas R.
Riddle
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: Allegro-List: Pitot Tube
Hugh,
Yes it happened to ours pretty much as you described. Our solution was
to cut off the pitot tube about 3/4" forward of its intersection with
the strut fairing, and connect the cut-off piece to the 3/4" stub with
a flexible hose of the proper size. This way, when someone hits it the
hose flexes and no damage results to either the pitot or the klutz
that ran into it.
Thom in Buffalo
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
8:59 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Hugh,
The pitot system does not rely on velocity inside the system only the PRESSURE
due to the ram air from the velocity of the relative wind at the pitot tube entrance.
The flexible tube we used (clear vinyl) is stiff enough to prevent it
from mis-aligning in the relative wind but flexible enough to bend at the joint
with a side load from an impact of a body.
To receive undisturbed air, the pitot inlet must be far enough ahead of intersection
to preclude any local air disturbances from affecting the perceived ram
pressure. 3/4" is probably close enough to affect the airspeed reading. That is
why you never see such a short pitot tube. They are always several inches long
to get the entrance out of any locally disturbed airflow.
I did airspeed calibration tests both before and after the hose fix and detected
no change whatsoever.
--------
Thom Riddle
CFI-SP
Power Plant Mechanic
N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213717#213717
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thom:
Thanks again for the clarification. I've got it!
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 7:05 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Pitot Tube
Hugh,
The pitot system does not rely on velocity inside the system only the PRESSURE
due to the ram air from the velocity of the relative wind at the pitot tube entrance.
The flexible tube we used (clear vinyl) is stiff enough to prevent it
from mis-aligning in the relative wind but flexible enough to bend at the joint
with a side load from an impact of a body.
To receive undisturbed air, the pitot inlet must be far enough ahead of intersection
to preclude any local air disturbances from affecting the perceived ram
pressure. 3/4" is probably close enough to affect the airspeed reading. That is
why you never see such a short pitot tube. They are always several inches long
to get the entrance out of any locally disturbed airflow.
I did airspeed calibration tests both before and after the hose fix and detected
no change whatsoever.
--------
Thom Riddle
CFI-SP
Power Plant Mechanic
N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist.
George Carlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213717#213717
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Water in wing tanks |
Allegro 2000 two years old, 150 hours based in Thailand fitted with
wing tanks used about once every three months.
We found about a pint of water in the right wing tank. I will do my best to summarise
the story which is a little complicated.
We removed the wings in order to paint the fuselage. The hoses were taped off and
the wings sat for about four weeks.
Before refitting the wings, we tilted the wings briefly about 30 to remove any
fuel. No fluid came out. With the wings refitted, I was in the process of connecting
the right wing outlet hose to the valve when about a quarter of a pint
of water drained out of the hose.
We removed the wings and tilted them nearly vertical. Another quarter of a pint
of water drained out of the right wing, but no fluid was found in the left wing.
A fuel test is done on the belly tank as part of the pre flight. The wing tanks
do not have the means to drain or test.
I think what happened is as follows: water accumulates in the tanks due to condensation.
The tanks are long and the outlet is slightly above the bottom of the
tank. My aircraft sits slightly right wing down and by habit I always fill the
right tank first. Also the Allegro has a slight dihedral. Water gravitated
from the left to the right tank. In addition, water that collected at the lowest
point of the system in a slioght loop (where fuel from the wing tanks joins
the main fuel system near the fuel pump) would have been pumped back up the hose
into the right tank when filling it.
I believe the reason the water was not discovered when tilting the wings prior
to refitting them was due to the baffle in the tank. I am guessing that the battle
is quite restrictive to prevent fuel sloshing end to end in the long tanks.
It was sufficiently restrictive to hold the water between the baffle and the
farther end of the tank when we tilted the wing to check.
I have only once found water when fuel testing the belly tank. This was during
a 2000 mile trip where we were refuelled at air strips with jerry cans. I assumed
the water was due to poor fuel or procedures. In retrospect it was more likely
due to water from the right tank flowing into the system in turbulence or
a series of left turns in the pattern on the long trip.
My first thought is concern if there is another Allegro with a similar pattern
in terms of age and usage of the tanks especially if used in a training environment
where it may frequently be doing left-hand turns or 360 turns.
I strongly recommend that anyone with these wing tanks checks for water contamination.
With the wing tanks empty, remove the fuel outlet hose, tilt the aircraft
as far as possible by jacking one main wheel and perhaps also removing air
from the tire on the other side. Presumably this would be sufficient to drain
any fluid from the tank. Water could have accumulated in the transfer hose between
the two tanks and the lowest point of the system where it joins the main
tank feed. It will be necessary to remove this hose and also inspect the small
plastic gascolator between the tank and the pump. This in turn means the main
tank must be trained but this is not a bad idea anyway.
My suggestion to resolve this problem is to replace the 2 way on-off valve above
the doors with a three-way valve similar to the fuel selector valve on the console.
The extract outlet would have a short flexible hose so that the tank can
be drained at the valve into a container. I think it would still be necessary
to jack the air craft up on one side to do this.
When the wing tanks are full, the fuel flows thru and fills the clear vent tubing
and recirculates back to the main tank. I think this prevents the vent from
working effectively as a vent until the fuel has dribbled out of it and been
replaced by air. For this reason I suggest that the wing tank is half filled then
some of the fuel is drained out to check for water before the vent tube fills
with fuel.
A sure way of preventing condensation is to keep the wing tanks full but that means
hauling around an extra 60 lb of fuel.
We did a test on the tanks and found that the nominal 40 litre capacity was about
38.5 litres less half a litre unuseable.
I am no mechanical expert and I welcome any suggestions about this problem. I am
surprised that with such a large amount of water, none was found on pre flight
checks of the main tank. This may be partly explained by the fact that when
the wing tanks valves are opened in flight, some fuel flows into the main tank
and some direct to the engine. I have not yet checked the float bowls for water.
Regards
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213768#213768
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Fund Raiser Lagging Last Year By Over 30%... |
As of the 13th, the Fund Raiser is currently about 30% behind last year in terms
of the number of Contributions. Yet, oddly the number of messages posted per
day is up by 10 to 20% on the average. It costs real money to run these Lists
and they are supported 100% though your Contributions during the Fund Raiser.
Won't you please take a minute right now to make your Contribution to keep
these Lists up and running?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Fuel leak at the Main Tank Drain |
The other day I drained the main fuel tank on my Allegro 2000 in order to
remove and clean the gascolator which is between the electric fuel pump and
the engine. The drain consists of two items, the first being a small
threaded brass plug with a point which is removed with a flat head
screwdriver. This brass plug screws into a separate larger female/male brass
fitting which in turn screws into the bottom of the tank itself. The male
part of the larger fitting that screws into the tank has a metal washer
which compresses on to the bottom of the tank for the seal. I initially
removed the smaller pointed brass plug, but the draining was so slow that I
then removed the larger brass fitting with the metal washer. The fuel
quickly drained after removing the larger fitting. The reason that the fuel
was draining so slow through the smaller opening was that some debris had
partially clogged the outlet.
After draining the tank and removing and cleaning the gascolator filter, I
reassembled everything and partially filled the main tank and ran the engine
for a short time. After shutting down the engine I checked for any fuel
leaks at the gascolator and the main tank drain. I found that the main tank
drain had a slow drip leak. I have checked the fuel at the drain point many
times by loosening the small brass plug which has a point on it, and
retightening it afterwards with no fuel leaking, so I am sure the leak is
not at that point. I am convinced the fuel leak is from the larger fitting
(that has the metal seal washer) that screws into the bottom of the tank
itself. The slow leak is either coming through the flat contact surface
between the top of the metal seal washer and the tank itself, or between the
flat bottom of the metal seal washer and the fitting itself. I have
tightened this fitting as much as I feel it is safe to do so. Does anyone
have any suggestions on how to stop this slow drip leak?
Hugh McKay
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel leak at the Main Tank Drain |
From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
Use a little Loctite 574 on both sides of the washer. Use very little . The leak
will stop. This is good for oil leaks between metal surfaces, gaskets or "O"
rings that just won't seal. You don't need a lot. I use it on the Rotax 912 valve
covers when you can't get them to stop oozing oil even when a new "O" ring
is installed.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214432#214432
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on
the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing
List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades
enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search
Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for 19+ years worth of online archive
data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the
many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
Wiki and PhotoShare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many
places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days?
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable
List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its
one of the best investments you can make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | What Members Are Saying... |
Dear Listers,
November is the Annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists are supported solely
through your generous Contributions during this time. Please make your Contribution
today and pick up a really nice free gift at this same time:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Listers have been including some really nice comments regarding what the Lists
mean to them along with their Contributions this year. I've included a few of
them below. Please read them over and see if some perhaps echo your feelings
as well.
Thank you for your support this year!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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to learn by.
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Stephen T
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Very much appreciate this site and the communications it has
enabled between builders.
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A wonderful resource.
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Well done.
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Years of good service.
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Great resource!
-Douglas D
Thanks for the great service.
-John B
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of people making a Contribution to support the Lists this year is
currently lagging behind last year by approximately 21%! I'm hoping that everyone
is just waiting until the last minute to show their support... ;-)
Please remember that it is solely your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to
support the Lists directly, then I will likely have to start adding advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I *really* don't want to
have to start doing that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and
I think that a lot of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel leak at the Main Tank Drain |
From: | "haven" <haven1950(at)yahoo.com> |
Did you replace the metal washer. I think these things are used only once.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215296#215296
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hugh" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel leak at the Main Tank Drain |
Haven,
No I did not replace the washer. Is it a crush type washer? It did not look
like one when I removed it.
Hugh McKay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-allegro-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of haven
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 8:00 AM
Subject: Allegro-List: Re: Fuel leak at the Main Tank Drain
Did you replace the metal washer. I think these things are used only once.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215296#215296
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:11 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort
of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some lame magazine or even just a single dinner out. Isn't the
List worth at least that much to you?
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support the
Lists?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far
during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively
through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Just A Few More Days... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser. There are
some great gifts available when you make a qualifying Contribution and there's
plenty still available. Don't forget that its *your* Contribution that keeps
the computers running, the electricity turned on, and the computer room AC cooling!
If you look forward to reading your List email each day, won't you please take
a minute right now to make your personal Contribution?
Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Just 3 Days Left - Please Make Your List Contribution Today! |
There are only three days left until the end of this year's List Fund Raiser.
Please take a minute to show your support as so many others have this year and
make sure YOUR name is on the forthcoming List of Contributors 2008!
Its quick and easy using the secure web site with a credit card or PayPal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by sending your personal check to:
Matronics Lists c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
(Please write your email address on the check!)
Thank you in advance for your support of these List services!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | What Listers Have Been Saying |
Wow! Many of the members making a List Support Contribution this year have been
using the Comments field to leave a personal message about the Lists. Thank
you! I have included a number of them below. Please read over a few and see
if you perhaps can echo some of the same sentiments regarding the value of the
Lists to you...
There is only a couple more days left for this year's List Fund Raiser and we're
still way behind previous years. If you've been waiting until the last minute
to show your support, Now is the Time! Please make your Contribution and pick
up a great gift at the same time!
By Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or By Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
Thank you in advance!!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
Here is some of the great feedback members have been including along with their
personal Contributions this year...
Over the years, the info I have received from the RV-List has
saved me thousands of dollars, and dozens of hours of time by
helping me avoid bad purchases, pointing me at vendors with
low prices and excellent support, and providing solutions to
the typical head scratchers that you run into.
Kevin H
Valuable service. Best List(s) on the Internet!
George A
Please accept this token not as an indicator of what
this list has been worth to me this past year.
Lew G
Great information and entertainment.
Tim V
Thanks again for another great year of service. This
project would be beyond me if it were not for the list.
Moreover, the friendships I have found are worth their
weight in GOLD!
Robert B
Great support you provide to all the subscribers!
Freddie H
Read it every day.
PF B
Thanks for your excellent management of the Matronics
Lists! Your services are head and shoulders above the
rest.
James M
Without the "List", there would be no Kolb "community".
Bill T
Thanks, Matt, for a great service! I've been monitoring
and using the lists since 1999.
Richard D
Thanks for such a terrific site and for all the work and
effort you put into it.
John R
A great service year after year.
John D
..another year of fantastic service.
Jerry B
This list is a great resource.
Arden A
Great list.
James M
Lists were a great help while building HRII N561FS.
John S
Great resources for both the beginner and experienced.
George R
Good service.
Gary G
The List is an invaluable resource!
William C
AeroElectric list is a great source of info and learning!
Janice J
Thank you, Matt for being there for us making it all happen
on the List for so many years - Great JOB!
Sam S
Thank you for providing a great venue. You definitely hit
the nail on the head with your solicitation asking if
readers look forward to receiving the email digests. I
certainly do and when I move from a dreamer to a builder, I
expect the anticipation will only increase.
Joe S
Thanks for a Perfect working list.
Hans-Peter R
Great List
Bryan K
Such a great selection of valuable forums!
October 31, 2007 - November 30, 2008
Allegro-Archive.digest.vol-ab