Beech-Archive.digest.vol-ae

March 19, 2001 - September 10, 2001



      Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: Vacuum Relief Valve
> > Al, > > Oh! A TACTAIR! Tactair was a new (1955) concept in autopilot design in that > it used air gauges for both sensing and operation of the controls. Weighing > less than ten pounds, the pneumatic system used no electric motors or vacuum > tubes, nor a demand of any kind on the electrical system. The autopilot is > ready to go as soon as the engine is running -- no warmup time required. > It'll hold a heading to 1 degree and an altitude to 20 feet. Price back in > the late 50's was about $2,500.00, installed. Ouch. > > The only demand it put on the plane was an increased appetite for instrument > vacuum air. You had to crank up the vacuum from 4-1/2" to 8-1/2" at the > vacuum regulator, and a second Tactair regulator split off 4-1/2" for the > instruments and 8-1/2" to drive the bellows-style servos to tug on the > appropriate control cable. Rather idiot-proof, if you ask me. I like mine -- > a lot. > > Are you dumping the Tactair to upgrade a Lear L-2 autpilot? :-) Installed > weight of the L-2 is only some 18-34 lbs, and it will track VORs and a > glideslope. Takes some 10 amps of juice to power those vacuum tubes, though. > > Well, give Bim Babis a call. He has some Tactair parts (tho' not all) for the > vacuum regulator. He has a different spring for the regulator to give it a > bit more oomph. If yours has such a spring, you need to trade it back in for > the ordinary kind. > > Tim Babis ("Mr. Tactair") > Tactair Autopilots > Hangar 3, Lunken Airport > Cincinnati, OH 45226 > 513-871-8569 > tsbabis(at)goodnews.net > > Tim's website is: > http://w3.goodnews.net/~tsbabis/tactair.htm > > Ron Davis > > > A J DeMarzo wrote: > > > > > > Thanks Ron; > > Always detailed instructions as only you know how to pen. Good thing your > > company makes gadgets that the common man uses. Where else would you get > > all that instructional experience? I'll call your boss in the morning and > > see if I can get you a good raise! > > > > You're right, the valve is probably the simplest thing on the airplane > > (other than the owner/pilot). I've performed all of the backbreaking work > > you've described and that's how I got it down to 8 lbs. from 12! The action > > is nice and smooth as the unit is sparkling clean, in and out. Possibly > > along the line, someone replaced the spring with a wrong one as I can't get > > it any lower than 8. The reason this was never detected is because maximum > > vacuum was allowed past this valve going to the "sub" valve of the Tactair! > > Yup, even uninstalled, the damn thing is troublesome! Thanks for the > > effort. > > AL > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> > > To: > > Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 3:43 PM > > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Vacuum Relief Valve > > > > > > > > Al, > > > > > > Aw, c'mon. The vacuum relief valve has gotta be one of the simplest gizmos on > > > the Bonanza. > > > > > > Inlet air from the gyros on one side, outlet suction to the vacuum pump on the > > > other, a relief inlet opening on the bottom, and the relief spring setscrew > > > on the top. > > > > > > As the suction increases (from the vacuum pump), it overpowers the spring that > > > closes the relief opening. additional air enters the regulator until t he > > > vacuum pressure and the spring pressure equalize. > > > > > > Want more vacuum? Screw the spring setscrew down, and increase pressure on > > > the relief valve so it stays closed longer. Want less? Back it off a bit. > > > Once set, you shouldn't have to mess with it until you add or remove a > > > vacuum-powered instrument, or change the vacuum pump. > > > > > > Since you replaced the relief valve and your problem went away, we can > > > conclude that the valve was indeed the cause of your problem. Usually, you > > > don't need a rebuild kit for these things -- just a good cleaning. There is > > > usually a screen on the bottom of the relief valve to keep the larger debris > > > from getting sucked in. Its weave is comparable to a screen door. Air goes > > > past the screen, through a pipe, and out the top of the pipe into the center > > > cavity of the relief valve. The top of the pipe will have a plate on it which > > > is held down by a spring. The plate rides up, letting some relief air in, and > > > the spring pushes down on it to only the -right- amount gets in. > > > > > > It sounds like your valve is gummed up. Gummy oil and soot, over years of > > > operation, will clog the plate so it doesn't move freely, and may stick > > > closed. The cure is a good cleaning in solvent. > > > > > > You could probably just dunk the entire regulator into a tank of solvent and > > > in a couple of days it ought to be as good as new. I suppose that the intake > > > screen could be totally clogged, too, but this method will cure both problems. > > > > > > Or, you could be a glutton for punishment, and disassemble it, and clean each > > > part separately. This isn't brain surgery. The hardest part will be removing > > > it from the other vacuum lines without tearing the hoses, and you've already > > > done that. > > > > > > I know I've got a photo or two lying around of a disassembled relief valve. > > > I'll see if I can send it to you directly, as the email list has a maximum > > > byte limit. > > > > > > Best, > > > Ron Davis > > > > > > > > > A J DeMarzo wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Here's one for the real mechanics. My suction relief valve doesn't relieve > > > > the suction. Took it off and apart, cleaned it up and although I was able > > > > to bring the suction down, it still lingers around 8 at 2000 RPM (should be > > > > 5.5). Replaced it with a good ebay item and I'm back in the chips, but I'd > > > > like to rebuild this little deal with new innards. When I call around and > > > > ask for a kit, you would think I was speaking in the native Vulcan tongue. > > > > Since the new Beech replacement is around $800.00, (I'm glad I got one on > > > > Ebay for $9.99), I figure there is a way to repair the old ones. Until I > > > > start drinking $800 bottles of wine, that's still a good hunk of change > > > > for this boy. The valve is an ARO, model #9520, and if anyone could > > > > give me some insight as to where I could get a kit or even send it off, > > > > I'd appreciate it. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Relief Valve
Date: Mar 19, 2001
Also Ron; You need to let Neil know about this! He couldn't come up with an answer. AL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 5:27 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Vacuum Relief Valve > > Al, > > Oh! A TACTAIR! Tactair was a new (1955) concept in autopilot design in that > it used air gauges for both sensing and operation of the controls. Weighing > less than ten pounds, the pneumatic system used no electric motors or vacuum > tubes, nor a demand of any kind on the electrical system. The autopilot is > ready to go as soon as the engine is running -- no warmup time required. > It'll hold a heading to 1 degree and an altitude to 20 feet. Price back in > the late 50's was about $2,500.00, installed. Ouch. > > The only demand it put on the plane was an increased appetite for instrument > vacuum air. You had to crank up the vacuum from 4-1/2" to 8-1/2" at the > vacuum regulator, and a second Tactair regulator split off 4-1/2" for the > instruments and 8-1/2" to drive the bellows-style servos to tug on the > appropriate control cable. Rather idiot-proof, if you ask me. I like mine -- > a lot. > > Are you dumping the Tactair to upgrade a Lear L-2 autpilot? :-) Installed > weight of the L-2 is only some 18-34 lbs, and it will track VORs and a > glideslope. Takes some 10 amps of juice to power those vacuum tubes, though. > > Well, give Bim Babis a call. He has some Tactair parts (tho' not all) for the > vacuum regulator. He has a different spring for the regulator to give it a > bit more oomph. If yours has such a spring, you need to trade it back in for > the ordinary kind. > > Tim Babis ("Mr. Tactair") > Tactair Autopilots > Hangar 3, Lunken Airport > Cincinnati, OH 45226 > 513-871-8569 > tsbabis(at)goodnews.net > > Tim's website is: > http://w3.goodnews.net/~tsbabis/tactair.htm > > Ron Davis > > > A J DeMarzo wrote: > > > > > > Thanks Ron; > > Always detailed instructions as only you know how to pen. Good thing your > > company makes gadgets that the common man uses. Where else would you get > > all that instructional experience? I'll call your boss in the morning and > > see if I can get you a good raise! > > > > You're right, the valve is probably the simplest thing on the airplane > > (other than the owner/pilot). I've performed all of the backbreaking work > > you've described and that's how I got it down to 8 lbs. from 12! The action > > is nice and smooth as the unit is sparkling clean, in and out. Possibly > > along the line, someone replaced the spring with a wrong one as I can't get > > it any lower than 8. The reason this was never detected is because maximum > > vacuum was allowed past this valve going to the "sub" valve of the Tactair! > > Yup, even uninstalled, the damn thing is troublesome! Thanks for the > > effort. > > AL > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> > > To: > > Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 3:43 PM > > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Vacuum Relief Valve > > > > > > > > Al, > > > > > > Aw, c'mon. The vacuum relief valve has gotta be one of the simplest gizmos on > > > the Bonanza. > > > > > > Inlet air from the gyros on one side, outlet suction to the vacuum pump on the > > > other, a relief inlet opening on the bottom, and the relief spring setscrew > > > on the top. > > > > > > As the suction increases (from the vacuum pump), it overpowers the spring that > > > closes the relief opening. additional air enters the regulator until the > > > vacuum pressure and the spring pressure equalize. > > > > > > Want more vacuum? Screw the spring setscrew down, and increase pressure on > > > the relief valve so it stays closed longer. Want less? Back it off a bit. > > > Once set, you shouldn't have to mess with it until you add or remove a > > > vacuum-powered instrument, or change the vacuum pump. > > > > > > Since you replaced the relief valve and your problem went away, we can > > > conclude that the valve was indeed the cause of your problem. Usually, you > > > don't need a rebuild kit for these things -- just a good cleaning. There is > > > usually a screen on the bottom of the relief valve to keep the larger debris > > > from getting sucked in. Its weave is comparable to a screen door. Air goes > > > past the screen, through a pipe, and out the top of the pipe into the center > > > cavity of the relief valve. The top of the pipe will have a plate on it which > > > is held down by a spring. The plate rides up, letting some relief air in, and > > > the spring pushes down on it to only the -right- amount gets in. > > > > > > It sounds like your valve is gummed up. Gummy oil and soot, over years of > > > operation, will clog the plate so it doesn't move freely, and may stick > > > closed. The cure is a good cleaning in solvent. > > > > > > You could probably just dunk the entire regulator into a tank of solvent and > > > in a couple of days it ought to be as good as new. I suppose that the intake > > > screen could be totally clogged, too, but this method will cure both problems. > > > > > > Or, you could be a glutton for punishment, and disassemble it, and clean each > > > part separately. This isn't brain surgery. The hardest part will be removing > > > it from the other vacuum lines without tearing the hoses, and you've already > > > done that. > > > > > > I know I've got a photo or two lying around of a disassembled relief valve. > > > I'll see if I can send it to you directly, as the email list has a maximum > > > byte limit. > > > > > > Best, > > > Ron Davis > > > > > > > > > A J DeMarzo wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Here's one for the real mechanics. My suction relief valve doesn't relieve > > > > the suction. Took it off and apart, cleaned it up and although I was able > > > > to bring the suction down, it still lingers around 8 at 2000 RPM (should be > > > > 5.5). Replaced it with a good ebay item and I'm back in the chips, but I'd > > > > like to rebuild this little deal with new innards. When I call around and > > > > ask for a kit, you would think I was speaking in the native Vulcan tongue. > > > > Since the new Beech replacement is around $800.00, (I'm glad I got one on > > > > Ebay for $9.99), I figure there is a way to repair the old ones. Until I > > > > start drinking $800 bottles of wine, that's still a good hunk of change > > > > for this boy. The valve is an ARO, model #9520, and if anyone could > > > > give me some insight as to where I could get a kit or even send it off, > > > > I'd appreciate it. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2001
From: GILLES BEDA <beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01
DEAR ALL 35 OWNERS I HAVE A NICE 35 SN D677 1947 AND I LIVE IN PARIS FRANCE I STILL HAVE A SPEED RESTRICTION AT 125 KTS DUE TO THAT SB I THING I FOUND ALL THE NECESSARY TOOLS TO PERFORM THE JOB EXEPT ALL BEECH TOOL TO CONTROL THE V TAIL ANY IDEA S IS IT POSSIBLE TO BUY THEM LET ME KNOW THANKS TO ALL GILLES BEDA PARIS FRANCE BEDA GILLES TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49 E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM ----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier ----- Web : www.netcourrier.com - Minitel : 3615 NETCOURRIER Tlphone : 08 36 69 00 21 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01
Gilles, If you are talking about the ruddervator differential rigging tool, This is listed in the "Beech Bonanza Parts Book (35-G35)" page 2-246, item 10: 35-590007 DIFFERENTIAL MECHANISM NEUTRALIZER. It is also listed in the "Beech Model 35 Maintanance Manual," page 119, and describes how to make it! Its a fairly simple item -- a tube with several tabs welded to it. Note: The two blocks at each end of the tool are not welded to the tube. They simply slide on, and you put in the cotter pins to keep them from falling off. There are, I think, three different models of this tool now. There is a Web page showing how its done on a N35 Bonanza, and the rigging tool he uses is different from 35-590007. http://www.elelink.org/Borigging.html Since you have a 1947 model 35, the one in the Model 35 Maintanance Manual and the Beech parts book (35-590007) is the proper one. The tool *is* available from Beech, I mean Raytheon, but it is over US$ 200.00. You can probably buy one from Arrell Aircraft in Oxnard, California, (email BeechedOut(at)aol.com), and Rick is usually about 60% of Raytheon's prices. - - - If you are talking about the Beech rudder pedal rigging tool, there is a diagram of how to make one in the Beech Shop Manual, page 3-09, and another for different models on an amended page. From the look of the photos in the Website above, you could do without it by aligning the pedals by clamping them to a metal bar. Don't know the Raytheon price of this one. - - - If you are talking about the Beech V-tail travel jig, there is a diagram in the Model 35 Maintanance Manual on how to build one on page 118, (and I think you already have my note that the book's dimensions may not be exactly correct!) You may want to make one out of cardboard first. Otherwise, contact Raytheon, and expect to pay about $475.00 for one. - - - The American Bonanza Society has a "rigging kit" containing all the tools necessary to rig a Bonanza: the differential rigging tool, the pedal pins, the ruddervator travel board, and so on all in a big shipping crate. I believe the rental cost is $100.00, and I think it is for one week. You have to pay the shipping out and back. I think the kit is already reserved through May, 2001. You can call the ABS office and inquire about the tool rental program. Email Frank Evanaga at: bonanza6(at)bonanza.org I hope this helps, Ron Davis GILLES BEDA wrote: > > > DEAR ALL 35 OWNERS > I HAVE A NICE 35 SN D677 1947 AND I LIVE IN PARIS FRANCE > I STILL HAVE A SPEED RESTRICTION AT 125 KTS DUE TO THAT SB > I THINK I FOUND ALL THE NECESSARY TOOLS TO PERFORM THE JOB > EXEPT ALL BEECH TOOL TO CONTROL THE V TAIL ANY IDEA S > IS IT POSSIBLE TO BUY THEM > LET ME KNOW > THANKS TO ALL > GILLES BEDA > PARIS FRANCE > > BEDA GILLES > TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49 > E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM > > ----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier ----- > Web : www.netcourrier.com - Minitel : 3615 NETCOURRIER > Tlphone : 08 36 69 00 21 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2001
From: gene smirl <cruiser50(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: I0-470 cyl upgrade
can anyone give me the latest update on the upgrading of the E225 by adding just cylinders from an I0470. thanks Gene Smirl D4222 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2001
From: Aberle Custom Aircraft <airacer(at)redrock.net>
Subject: Re: I0-470 cyl upgrade
Call Jerry Foreston @ 503-668-4542, he is the owner of the STC. Please Post if its approved, finally. Thanx, Jerry Aberle > >can anyone give me the latest update on the upgrading >of the E225 by adding just cylinders from an I0470. > >thanks >Gene Smirl D4222 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2001
From: GILLES BEDA <beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01
DEAR ALL AS AN TODAY I OWN A 35 D677 1947 AND I AM VERY HAPPY STILL THAT FAA SB TO RESOLVE TODAY I FLY AT SPEED RESTRICTION AT 125 KNOTS AND IT S DIFFICULT HERE IN PARIS TO FIND ALL MATERIALS AND TOOLS ??? I MAY FOUND A NICE V35B AND I CHECKED THE REGULAR THINGS BUT ANYBODY CAN TELL ME ANY SPECIALS ITEMS TO CHECK THAT ONE HAS 3 BLADES PROP IO-550HP 300 HP CONVERSION AND IT S A TRUE 175KTS AN PRE BUY INSPECTOR ON LINE?? ALSO THE EMPTY WEIGHT IS 2445LBS SOME SPACE FOR MY 2 KIDS MAY BE TIP TANKS TO FIT? THANKS FOR ALL GILLES BEDA PARIS FRANCE PS BY THE WAY IF ANY BEECH FAN IS IN PARIS LET ME KNOW I WILL BE HAPPY TO SHOW YOU THE PLACE AND MAY BE FLY AROUND BEDA GILLES TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49 E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM ----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier ----- Web : www.netcourrier.com - Minitel : 3615 NETCOURRIER Tlphone : 08 36 69 00 21 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2001
From: GILLES BEDA <beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01
DEAR ALL NEED HELP ON A V35B MODEL 1979 IS IT POSSIBLE TO PLACE A LARGE CARGO DOOR AND CLUB SEATING ? REGARDS GILLES BEDA PARIS FRANCE BEDA GILLES TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49 E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM ----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier ----- Web : www.netcourrier.com - Minitel : 3615 NETCOURRIER Tlphone : 08 36 69 00 21 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "carmine pecoraro" <aeroauto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01
Date: Apr 01, 2001
There is a kit to install the large cargo door which became standard equiptment on later models. A friend of mine just installed one with parts from a salvage yard and some news parts from Beech. I have no knowledge about installing club seating in the V35B. It seems like you would have an aft c.g. problem. Carmine Pecoraro >From: GILLES BEDA <beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01 >Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 12:23:09 +0200 (MET DST) > > >DEAR ALL >NEED HELP ON A V35B MODEL 1979 IS IT POSSIBLE TO PLACE A LARGE CARGO DOOR >AND CLUB SEATING ? >REGARDS >GILLES BEDA >PARIS FRANCE > >BEDA GILLES >TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49 >E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM > >----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier ----- >Web : www.netcourrier.com - Minitel : 3615 NETCOURRIER >Tlphone : 08 36 69 00 21 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James D. Ivey" <jim(at)iveylaw.com>
Subject: Bonanza V-Tail AD s Revisited
Date: Apr 02, 2001
The FAA is asking for comments on proposed replacement AD's for the existing AD's on the Bonanza V-tails. Here are the proposed AD's: http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b1.pdf http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b2.pdf The first one is supposed to lift the speed limit from the early Bonanzas (35, 35R, A35, and B35). First, I'm curious to hear what people think of the new ADs. They're supposed to clarify and improve things. I wonder if they do (at least to people that have actually tried to comply with the existing AD's). Second, the cost estimate for initial compliance is about $3,000, but they don't estimate the cost of periodic inspections. Does anybody have any idea what the 100-hour inspections/repairs could run? Just ballpark high/low range would be really helpful. Thanks. Jim Ivey jim(at)iveylaw.com Oakland, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Bonanza V-Tail AD s Revisited]
"James D. Ivey" wrote: The FAA is asking for comments on proposed replacement AD's for the existing AD's on the Bonanza V-tails. Here are the proposed AD's: http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b1.pdf http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b2.pdf The first one is supposed to lift the speed limit from the early Bonanzas (35, 35R, A35, and B35). First, I'm curious to hear what people think of the new ADs. They're supposed to clarify and improve things. I wonder if they do (at least to people that have actually tried to comply with the existing AD's). Second, the cost estimate for initial compliance is about $3,000, but they don't estimate the cost of periodic inspections. Does anybody have any idea what the 100-hour inspections/repairs could run? Just ballpark high/low range would be really helpful. Thanks. Jim Ivey jim(at)iveylaw.com Oakland, CA After having read the proposed rulemaking for post "C" models, I interpret it to say that existing tail mods (external reinforcements) must be removed and replaced with internal mods. Am I an idiot, or is this what they propose?? I was under the impression that the external mods had been very successful. I have both on my "D". I cant imagine removing something that is functional and replacing it with something that the feds may decide is obsolete a few years from now. I would appreciate any feedback from someone more capable of reading the governmentese than I. Thanks, Brian Walker walkmet(at)usa.net Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James D. Ivey" <jim(at)iveylaw.com>
Subject: Bonanza V-Tail AD s Revisited]
Date: Apr 03, 2001
> > After having read the proposed rulemaking for post "C" > models, I interpret it > to say that existing tail mods (external reinforcements) > must be removed and replaced with internal mods. Am I an > idiot, or is this > what they propose?? I took another look at it (I can read/write governmentese). I think compliance with the original AD 94-20-04 suffices. "(e) Can I comply with this AD in any other way? ... (2) Alternative methods of compliance approved in accordance with AD 94-20-04 ... are approved as alternative methods of compliance with this AD." In addition, external reinforcements are only removed if they put on according to specific STCs. Action (4)(i) reads "install stabilizer reinforcements." So I think if you've already done that in compliance with AD 94-20-04, you're done (except for the recurring inspections). At least, that's how I read the words of the proposed new AD. One last clue is that all the time-in-service limits for compliance are measured from the original AD 94-20-04. That suggests to me that this AD is supposed to be no more than a clarification -- not a change in substance. I think the real change is for the earlier Bonanzas (35, 35R, A35, and B35). Regards, Jim Ivey jim(at)iveylaw.com Oakland, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: Re: Bonanza V-Tail AD s Revisited]
Date: Apr 03, 2001
It just boggles my mind that the FAA would propose removing a mod that has cured the problem. A 3 year old child can look at the original design of the Vtail fixed tailplane and tell why it was destined to fail at high speed or in turbulence. It was virtually unattached to the structure of the fuselage and had a huge arm between the spar and the leading edge of the stabilizer. It is hard to imagine that even the most simple minded engineer would have proposed such an absurd design no less that the FAA approved it. So those of us that now operate the Vtail successfully with the external mod must once again suffer expense to cover the embarrasment of Raytheon and the FAA at their incompetence. I have one word for the Feds and Raytheon. "Leave us the hell alone!! Quit trying to legislate our planes out of the sky so that Beech can sell more new ones or to cover your incompetent butts. We have these because we either love them or can't afford the absurdly overpriced $600,000.00 versions currently offered or a combination of the two. The external cuff and careful maintenance and balancing cured, I repeat cured the problem. Go find some other victim to screw with. " David P. Walen N2925B D35 -----Original Message----- From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net> Date: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:29 PM Subject: Re: [Beech-List: Bonanza V-Tail AD s Revisited] > >"James D. Ivey" wrote: > >The FAA is asking for comments on proposed replacement AD's for the >existing AD's on the Bonanza V-tails. Here are the proposed AD's: > >http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b1.pdf >http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b2.pdf > >The first one is supposed to lift the speed limit from the early Bonanzas >(35, 35R, A35, and B35). > >First, I'm curious to hear what people think of the new ADs. They're >supposed to clarify and improve things. I wonder if they do (at least to >people that have actually tried to comply with the existing AD's). > > >Second, the cost estimate for initial compliance is about $3,000, but they >don't estimate the cost of periodic inspections. Does anybody have any idea >what the 100-hour inspections/repairs could run? Just ballpark high/low >range would be really helpful. > >Thanks. > >Jim Ivey >jim(at)iveylaw.com >Oakland, CA > > >After having read the proposed rulemaking for post "C" models, I interpret it >to say that existing tail mods (external reinforcements) >must be removed and replaced with internal mods. Am I an idiot, or is this >what they propose?? I was under the impression that the external mods had >been very successful. I have both on my "D". I cant imagine removing >something that is functional and replacing it with something that the feds may >decide is obsolete a few years from now. I would appreciate any feedback from >someone more capable of reading the governmentese than I. > >Thanks, >Brian Walker >walkmet(at)usa.net >Colorado Springs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Bonanza V-Tail AD s Revisited
I had to have my ruddervators rebuilt some three years ago (corrosion), and the cost was somewhere around $5,000 for the two of them combined. While balancing shouldn't cost *that* much, the $5,000 may be considered a worst-case scenario. If your 'vators are already balanced as per the previous AD's directions, then this superceded AD will not change anything. The 100-hr. repetitive inspection of the skin and bulkheads should be nominal, as you already have the inspection covers off during your annual inspection anyway. If the skin or bulkheads *are* wrinkled, then you've got bigger troubles to worry about. Ron Davis "James D. Ivey" wrote: > > > The FAA is asking for comments on proposed replacement AD's for the > existing AD's on the Bonanza V-tails. Here are the proposed AD's: > > http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b1.pdf > http://www.avweb.com/other/faa0113b2.pdf > > The first one is supposed to lift the speed limit from the early Bonanzas > (35, 35R, A35, and B35). > > First, I'm curious to hear what people think of the new ADs. They're > supposed to clarify and improve things. I wonder if they do (at least to > people that have actually tried to comply with the existing AD's). > > Second, the cost estimate for initial compliance is about $3,000, but they > don't estimate the cost of periodic inspections. Does anybody have any idea > what the 100-hour inspections/repairs could run? Just ballpark high/low > range would be really helpful. > > Thanks. > > Jim Ivey > jim(at)iveylaw.com > Oakland, CA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01
Date: Apr 03, 2001
Gilles, Physically, the third and fourth seats could be turned around in a V35B. There is no STC for this, however. From a practical standpoint, this would be a very undesireable change. There would be no good access and egress from the third and fourth seats. The large baggage door is not very tall. It would involve crawling under the lower edge of the aft window frame. There would still be the CG implications if you seated anyone in the fith or sixth seats. The V35B was not intended for club seating. If you want that, get an A36. That airplane has the doors and CG to use the club arrangement. Alan Bradley A36 N16SF >From: GILLES BEDA <beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/29/01 >Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 12:23:09 +0200 (MET DST) > > >DEAR ALL >NEED HELP ON A V35B MODEL 1979 IS IT POSSIBLE TO PLACE A LARGE CARGO DOOR >AND CLUB SEATING ? >REGARDS >GILLES BEDA >PARIS FRANCE > >BEDA GILLES >TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49 >E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM > >----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier ----- >Web : www.netcourrier.com - Minitel : 3615 NETCOURRIER >Tlphone : 08 36 69 00 21 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CountVoo(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2001
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 04/03/01
<< I have one word for the Feds and Raytheon. "Leave us the hell alone!! Quit trying to legislate our planes out of the sky so that Beech can sell more new ones or to cover your incompetent butts. We have these because we either love them or can't afford the absurdly overpriced $600,000.00 versions currently offered or a combination of the two. The external cuff and careful maintenance and balancing cured, I repeat cured the problem. Go find some other victim to screw with. " David P. Walen N2925B D35 >> Absolutely!! To hell with'em all! Flying is a 'Right' not a 'privledge'! It is a certificate of compency (we have) not a 'license' (country doug) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject:
Does anybody out there know anything about the "Symons Engineering" Bonanza Auxilliary tank? Is the guy still in business? Does anybody have any installation data on this tank (or SY112 drawings)? Specifically, I am trying to determine the original configuration of the vent system and if an anti-siphon valve was incorporated. The tank is 20 gal. and fits in the luggage compartment and under the rear seat. Thanks for your help Brian Walker D-3596 walkmet(at)usa.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Brian, Here's what I dug up on Symons Engineering regarding your aux tank: STC Number : SA4-559 Manufacturer: RAYTHEON AIRCRAFT COMPANY Make/Model : 35 Series Description : 20-gallon auxiliary fuel tank. STC Holder : Symons Engineering : P.O. Box 45002 : Airport Station : Los Angeles CALIFORNIA 90009 UNITED STATES A phone book search turned up: Symons Corporation Building Products Los Angeles, CA 90001 (323) 684-1800 I don't know if they are one and the same. The Beech parts book is pretty skimpy about the baggage aux tanks, as I believe they were originally developed by someone else and Beech bought it, adding it to their line of options. I have a 10 gallon baggage tank, and it has a fuel vent line the runs from the top of the filler neck to ... somewhere. I can't remember where I saw it running to -- maybe out to the rubber fuel filler collar, or maybe it taps into the left wing's vent system. I'd have to go check. Ron Davis Brian Walker wrote: > > > Does anybody out there know anything about the "Symons Engineering" Bonanza > Auxilliary tank? Is the guy still in business? Does anybody have any > installation data on this tank (or SY112 drawings)? Specifically, I am trying > to determine the original configuration of the vent system and if an > anti-siphon valve was incorporated. The tank is 20 gal. and fits in the > luggage compartment and under the rear seat. > > Thanks for your help > Brian Walker D-3596 > walkmet(at)usa.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2001
From: Wesley & Susan Knettle <wsknettl(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Fuel tank vent
I believe the vent line went to the filler area. If it gets plugged with debris the > electric pump is strong enough to collapse the tank. > > Beech-List Digest Server wrote: > > > * > > > > Beech-List Digest Archive > > --- > > Total Messages Posted Fri 04/06/01: 1 > > > > > > > > From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> > > Subject: Re: Beech-List: > > > > I have a 10 gallon baggage tank, and it has a fuel vent line the runs from the > > top of the filler neck to ... somewhere. I can't remember where I saw it > > running to -- maybe out to the rubber fuel filler collar, or maybe it taps > > into the left wing's vent system. I'd have to go check. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2001
From: gene smirl <cruiser50(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: I0470 upgrade
Well I contacted the people about the upgrade stc and it seems it won't be ready until may or june. Also it seems as though there is more to it than just putting the cylinders on. They indicated that it was likened to a complete overhaul. My mechanic said that when he called the beech society that they told him that there were plenty of these e225 hybrids out there running around and that the cylinders were done back before the FAA looked at it so hard. Does anyone out there know of one of these I0470 upgrades and would they send a copy of the 337 or what ever they are using to be legal. I have to replace 3 cylinders and it just seems a shame not to be able to go ahead and upgrade now. Gene Smirl D4222 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Howdo I have Beech 35 SN1221 with a 10 gal baggage compartment tank. It vents out of the fuselage just below the filler and has a quick drain on the belly just under the tank. Does anybody know where the quantity/float level sensor is? I switch to Aux and the needle pegs full; obviously a short somewhere but I don't know where to look for the float to see if it's stuck. Pete Scott Ron Davis wrote: > > Brian, > > Here's what I dug up on Symons Engineering regarding your aux tank: > > STC Number : SA4-559 > Manufacturer: RAYTHEON AIRCRAFT COMPANY > Make/Model : 35 Series > Description : 20-gallon auxiliary fuel tank. > STC Holder : Symons Engineering > : P.O. Box 45002 > : Airport Station > : Los Angeles CALIFORNIA 90009 UNITED STATES > > A phone book search turned up: > Symons Corporation Building Products > Los Angeles, CA 90001 > (323) 684-1800 > > I don't know if they are one and the same. > > The Beech parts book is pretty skimpy about the baggage aux tanks, as I > believe they were originally developed by someone else and Beech bought it, > adding it to their line of options. > > I have a 10 gallon baggage tank, and it has a fuel vent line the runs from the > top of the filler neck to ... somewhere. I can't remember where I saw it > running to -- maybe out to the rubber fuel filler collar, or maybe it taps > into the left wing's vent system. I'd have to go check. > > Ron Davis > > Brian Walker wrote: > > > > > > Does anybody out there know anything about the "Symons Engineering" Bonanza > > Auxilliary tank? Is the guy still in business? Does anybody have any > > installation data on this tank (or SY112 drawings)? Specifically, I am trying > > to determine the original configuration of the vent system and if an > > anti-siphon valve was incorporated. The tank is 20 gal. and fits in the > > luggage compartment and under the rear seat. > > > > Thanks for your help > > Brian Walker D-3596 > > walkmet(at)usa.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Exh. Manifold Needed, AOG
Date: Apr 10, 2001
Hey Gang! A friend is in need of a left side exhaust manifold for his F Bonanza with an E225. There's been no luck repairing the cracks and holes in it, so it's down until he can find a replacement. Rather than gambling on the quality of salvage yard stuff (not to mention the near new pricing schedules) I offered to place it here with the group. If anyone has one or has a good suggestion, please email Jim directly at jvholmes(at)ev1.net . Thanks AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Exh. Manifold Needed, AOG
Date: Apr 10, 2001
I would send it off to Dawley 1-800-338-5420 for an evaluation. They can do wonders. Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club Newsletter Editor & EAA TC www.bellanca-championclub.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 10:52 AM Subject: Beech-List: Exh. Manifold Needed, AOG > > Hey Gang! > A friend is in need of a left side exhaust manifold for his F Bonanza with > an E225. There's been no luck repairing the cracks and holes in it, so it's > down until he can find a replacement. Rather than gambling on the quality > of salvage yard stuff (not to mention the near new pricing schedules) I > offered to place it here with the group. If anyone has one or has a good > suggestion, please email Jim directly at jvholmes(at)ev1.net . > Thanks > AL > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Exh. Manifold Needed, AOG
Al & Jim, I had my stacks rebuilt about 4-5 years ago by the outfit that advertises in the ABS magazine out of San Diego. Don't have their name handy. Aero Accessories? Aero Rebuilders? Custom Air Parts? Something like that. I shipped it out to 'em as several chunks of rusty tubes. The right side had a hole in it the size of a dime, so I was definitely in need of a repair, but they came back looking like new parts. Can't remember what the price on each side was. I *do* know that the left side with the heat muff was more. It was something like $450.00 for the two of them. There was also an ad in 'Barnstormers 2000' a while back that may be able to help you, but I don't know what his quality is like: > http://www.barnstormers2000.com/ > > BONANZA EXHAUST PARTS FOR SALE!! > Lots of Bonanza exhaust parts, stacks, mufflers, tailpipes. > Contact Glenn Crabtree, President - CRABTREE AIRCRAFT COMPANY, INC. > located Guthrie OK USA. > Telephone: toll free 877-272-5824 or 405-282-4250. Fax: 405-282-3130. > -- Posted 21 June 2000 -- I hope this helps, Ron Davis A J DeMarzo wrote: > > > Hey Gang! > A friend is in need of a left side exhaust manifold for his F Bonanza with > an E225. There's been no luck repairing the cracks and holes in it, so it's > down until he can find a replacement. Rather than gambling on the quality > of salvage yard stuff (not to mention the near new pricing schedules) I > offered to place it here with the group. If anyone has one or has a good > suggestion, please email Jim directly at jvholmes(at)ev1.net . > Thanks > AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: Aux tank query
Date: Apr 11, 2001
Pete.. First thing to try is just lift the panel switch a fraction of an inch and see if it works.. Mine has been this way for 30 yrs, I just put a pencil thru the round hole in the switch to keep it off the down position, and it reads right. Milt B-35 D2440 -----Original Message----- From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net> Date: Monday, April 09, 2001 8:35 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: > >Howdo >I have Beech 35 SN1221 with a 10 gal baggage compartment tank. It vents out of the >fuselage just below the filler and has a quick drain on the belly just under the >tank. Does anybody know where the quantity/float level sensor is? I switch to Aux >and the needle pegs full; obviously a short somewhere but I don't know where to >look for the float to see if it's stuck. > >Pete Scott > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: B-35 for sale
Date: Apr 11, 2001
My aluminum mistress for the last 30 yrs has to go to a loving home... I've lost my medical (again) and they have raised the hangar rent (again) So here it is guys.. This thing will get you into the show circle at Oshkosh... Please don't call me unless you are willing to give it a really good home, and I'm keeping the trophies I've won with her.. For Sale..."Sunny the Beech" 1950 Beech B-35, s/n D2440 N5155C 4302 hrs TTAF, 508 hrs SMOH, 30 hrs Prop, 15hrs Carb No outstanding ADs, annual due August01 4 ch 720 com, Loc/GS, Loran, Intercom. Hartzell prop, nose taxi light, Speed sloped windshield, metal M-tips, 10g Aux. tank, Cleveland wheels and brakes, Autogas STC, 50A alternator Paint a 7, leather interior a 9+ (emulating 1950) Logs are excellent Spares include: Nose gear strut and wheel, G model 3rd window, PS5 carb, stainless trim cables. Includes Mtnc manuals and Illustr parts lists for airframe, engine and prop. Recent appraisal: $55,400 Asking $56 with jacks and spares. Picture available on request. Milt Ciarlariello 530-268-6636 Auburn Ca. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: real-time clock
Date: Apr 12, 2001
Listers, Here's a site for a real-time clock to set reasonably accurate time, just click on a time zone, when the clock comes up, add it to your favorites. Regards, Randy L. Thwing, 701 plans http://nist.time.gov/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/12/01
Date: Apr 13, 2001
HELP!! I'm getting ready to move to Dallas, Texas and need a new home for my baby, A35 N756B, can anyone help me? Thanks, in advance, Terry Frymire tfrymire(at)alltel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/12/01
Date: Apr 13, 2001
Where in Dallas are you going to be? There's plenty of spots around if you know where/how to look. Also, there's probably affordable, fully enclosed space at an airport close to you! Let me know how I can help. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 8:18 AM Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/12/01 > > HELP!! I'm getting ready to move to Dallas, Texas and need a new home for my > baby, A35 N756B, can anyone help me? > Thanks, in advance, Terry Frymire > tfrymire(at)alltel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Date: Apr 13, 2001
To all on this list that haven't heard about the proposed AD against the early model V-Tail BE35's. I have drafted a letter to the FAA in response to this unreasonable action. If you own a V-Tail or would like to make a difference in the FAA draconian approach to the "possible" probelms please write and make your concerns known. A copy of the letters is available at ftp.tnstaafl.net , they are Word documents. bonanza_ad2000.doc bonanza_ad2000a.doc a list of addresses to send the letters too address_AD.doc I have also attached the letters to this email. You must get the letters in the mail soon. The cut off date for comment is May 5. I can send any one an email with the text of the letter if they need it in that format. thanks, Scott Derrick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Date: Apr 13, 2001
Scott: I am interested but your links don't work and you refer to "BE-35'S" Please clarify Randy L. Thwing, straight 35 > > To all on this list that haven't heard about the proposed AD against the early > model V-Tail BE35's. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Date: Apr 13, 2001
Randy, > Scott: > I am interested but your links don't work and you refer to "BE-35'S" > Please clarify > Randy L. Thwing, straight 35 If your using a browser to get there, left click on ftp.tnstaafl.net , after the directory page loads, right click on a file, select "Copy To Folder" . That should work. Also the file sb27_3558.pdf is the service bulletin the NPRM is referring to. the file ad2000_ce_44.pdf is a copy of the NPRM BE35 == All V-Tails. The NPRM is addressing straight 35, A35 and B35. There are many of us that believe this is just a first step and the rest of the 35's will be included very soon.. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Date: Apr 13, 2001
Randy, > Scott: > I am interested but your links don't work and you refer to "BE-35'S" > Please clarify > Randy L. Thwing, straight 35 If your using a browser to get there, left click on ftp.tnstaafl.net , after the directory page loads, right click on a file, select "Copy To Folder" . That should work. Also the file sb27_3558.pdf is the service bulletin the NPRM is referring to. the file ad2000_ce_44.pdf is a copy of the NPRM, I ttached this file but not the SB its 660KB BE35 == All V-Tails. The NPRM is addressing straight 35, A35 and B35. There are many of us that believe this is just a first step and the rest of the 35's will be included very soon.. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Date: Apr 13, 2001
Because some folks couldn;t get teh attachments to work or access my ftp site I have included the letters in the body of this email in text form.. The formating and font info is lost but the words are there! ******************** the address list Here's a partial list of people I am sending a copy of my letters that address the NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD. I donated all my World Bonanza Society mags to the airport so can't locate the presidents address. FAA, Central Region Office of Regional Counsel Attention: Rules Docket No. 2000-CE-44-AD 901 Locust, Room 506 Kansas City, MO 64016 Note send in triplicate to above address Mr. T.N. Baktha FAA, Wichita Aircraft Certification Office 1801 Airport Rd. Mid-Continent Airport Wichita, KS 67209 American Bonanza Society Attn: Neil Pobanz P.O. Box 12888 Wichita, KS 67277 Jon Roadfeldt (ABS President) 1548 W. Sextant Roseville, MN 55113 ABS Magazine/ABS Headquarters P.O. Box 12888 Wichita, KS 67277 AOPA Attn: Phil Boyer (AOPA President) 421 Aviation Way Frederick, Maryland 21701. AOPA Attn: Steven J. Brown 421 Aviation Way Frederick, Maryland 21701. AOPA Attn: Glenn H. Rizner. 421 Aviation Way Frederick, Maryland 21701. ******************* letter 1 April 10, 2001 Reference: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD FAA, Central Region Office of Regional Counsel Attention: Rules Docket No. 2000-CE-44-AD 901 Locust, Room 506 Kansas City, MO 64016 To whom it may concern: I am responding to the proposed Airworthiness Directive that would incorporate Raytheon Service Bulletin SB 27-3358. I disagree with the use of certain elements within the service bulletin and NPRM that: 1.) Needlessly increase the cost of performing the AD. 2.) Do not materially increase safety of flight. The sections that I specifically object to are: Service Bulletin 27-3358: Paragraph 2.E Tooling -Price and Availability This section specifies the special tooling required for propeller balancing and skin thickness testing. It specifies a specific manufacturer-tool instead of a required specification for the tool to accomplish. The tools listed are fairly expensive. Many aircraft maintenance facilities will have tools appropriate to accomplish the required tasks contained in the service bulletin only if they can utilize tools that are already in house. The price of the required tools in the service bulletin, balanced against the use of the tool may prohibit them from acquiring another sonic skin tester.. This will reduce the number of facilities that can accomplish the service bulletin and raise the cost of the inspection. statement to the body of the AD that any tool that meets or exceeds the specification of the listed tools may be used for both propeller balancing and skin thickness measurement. Service Bulletin 27-3358: Paragraph 3.A(1) Accomplishment Instructions This section calls for a review of the airplane logbooks and modification documentation by a Structural Designated Engineering Representative. This is an unnecessarily excessive and burdensome requirement that does not contribute to safety and is a duplication of the Inspection Authority granted to qualified A&P technicians. This Inspection Authority is specifically addressed in AC 65-19G, "Inspection Authorization Guide". Consequently, I propose that paragraph 3.A(1) of SB 27-3558 be revised, before incorporation in proposed AD Docket No. 2000-CE-44-AD, to read as follows: documentation to ensure the modifications to the airplane, if any, have been accomplished in accordance with substantiating documentation, are compatible with previous repairs and modifications and in conformity with Type Certificate No. A777. Service Bulletin 27-3358: Paragraph 3.A(5)(b)(iv) and 3.A(5)(e)(vii) Accomplishment Instructions These two sections specify the inspection of the skin to verify the correct thickness. The method to be utilized is the use of a "Sonic Skin Tester". The use of a hand caliper of sufficient accuracy would accomplish the task just as accurately and with much more efficiency. There are numerous points on the affected skin sections that a hand caliper could be used with no dissasembly other than removal of the paint at the point of measurement. It is a burden to the facility doing the inspection and to the owner to require the purchase and use of such expensive equipment when a valid means exists that all certified shops currently posses. I propose the section be amended as follows: effected skin sections. If hand calipers are to be used remove the paint from the point of measurement prior to measuring the skin thickness. Prime and repaint the area of exposed metal per approved shop methods. Service Bulletin 27-3358: Paragraph 3.A(12) Accomplishment Instructions This section specifies the inspection of the propeller. It requires that the propeller be dynamically balanced. There is no provision for propellers that are newly overhauled or have been balanced within a reasonable time period. For the owners who have accomplished the intent of the section by either recently overhauling the propeller or recently balanced the propeller, this is a burden and unnecessary operation. I propose the section be amended as follows: based on "time in service" since overhaul or balancing. AD Proposal 2000-CE044: Actions item (5) Calls for a 100 hour repetitive inspection in accordance with paragraphs 5(a) through 5(f) of the Accomplishment section of the service bulletin. Section 5(b)(iv) and 5(e)(vii) call for inspecting for proper skin thickness using a sonic metal skin tester. This test is intended to confirm that after 50 years of service the aircraft skin had not been replaced by a thinner material or that surface cleaning/abrasion had not reduced the thickness beyond safe limits. Requiring a 100 hour repetitive inspection for skin thickness is unnecessary, and does not contribute to the safe operation of this aircraft. inspection requirement. I am hopeful that you will be able to take the time to evaluate the items above and help with any changes you feel are warranted. Please feel free to call as I am very willing to talk about any of the issues I have commented on. Sincerely, Scott Derrick P.O. 172 Grants, NM 87020 505-469-4154 ************************* letter 2 April 12, 2001 Reference: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD Federal Aviation Administration Central Region Office of Regional Counsel Attention: Rules Docket No. 2000-CE-44-AD 901 Locust, Room 506 Kansas City, Missouri 64106 To Whom It May Concern: I am responding to the proposed Airworthiness Directive that would incorporate Raytheon Service Bulletin SB 27-3358. The NPRM was issued to address AD 98-13-02 and Raytheon's issuance of SB 27-3558, which has been approved as an alternative means of compliance with AD. A joint study was setup by The American Bonanza Society, Raytheon and the FAA. The goal of the study was to determine if the cause of the flutter incidents observed in BE35 aircraft, were pilot induced by exceeding the aircraft limitations of maximum speed and or gross weight, or were the result of improper maintenance or construction as set forth in the current specifications. A list of my concerns regarding the NPRM follow. 1.) The American Bonanza Society objected to many of the elements in SB 27-3558 and was assured they would be addressed before the release of the NPRM. The NPRM was released with out any changes from the original? Why? 2.) Is there really a problem with the current specifications for maintaining the airplanes in conformity to Type Certificate A777? Almost all of the incidents occurred in airplanes that were very poorly maintained. Out of rig, unbalanced ruddervators, worn or broken components were found on all but a few of the effected aircraft. All of the airplanes that appeared to be well maintained were operating in the "Yellow" airspeed arc and possibly above the "Red" Vne speed. At these speeds any turbulence above mild may induce airframe damage. It seems we are fixing something that is not broke. It appears to me a Mandatory Service Bulletin that would bring all the BE35's control surface in balance and rigged within the current specifications is all that is needed. Not the shotgun approach contained in SB 27-3558. 3.) Why has the study not been released? Surly a broad based review would be beneficial to the eventual formulation of a procedure to eliminate the "reported" problem. Please release the study to support the mandated procedures. The cost of complying with SB 27-3558 has been determined in the field to be far above Raytheon's estimate and justification of this cost should be addressed. 4.) The incident record maintained by the NTSB has numerous occurrences of control flutter incidents in later model BE35's than addressed by the NPRM. Why are the early models, 35, A35 and B35 being singled out when from all appearances the "reported" problem occurs in the later models, albeit at a reduced rate. I am hopeful that the 4 questions above are cause for concern regarding the handling of this NPRM and may help in the implementation of a realistic solution based on all the facts. Sincerely, Scott Derrick P.O. Box 172 Grants, NM 87020 505-469-4154 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2001
From: Jeff King <jeff(at)aerodata.net>
Subject: Re: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Scott Derrick wrote: > The NPRM is addressing straight 35, A35 and B35. There are many of us that > believe this is just a first step and the rest of the 35's will be included very > soon.. Is their a concise one paragraph explanation of what these NPRM(s) are and why they are such a problem to the Beech community? Don't yet own a Beech, but it was on the top of my list, and wondering how this NPRM should affect my buying decision. Regards, Jeff King ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: HEY MAJORDOMO
Date: Apr 13, 2001
I just realized this list strips all attachments. HEY MAJORDOMO, FIX THIS!!!! It weak to have a list you can't attach at least a 50k file too.... Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Date: Apr 13, 2001
Jeff, A NPRM is a proposed AD( Airworthiness Directive). This specific one is addressing BE35's in there various flavors. The more draconian measures are aimed at the early 47-50 year models. There are always 10 or 20 NPRMs being commented on before they are changed into an AD. All certificated airplanes have AD's against them. Some severe, some annoyances. The worst fall into two categories. 1.) one time but very expensive. 2.) repetitive inspections that are also expensive or repeat at close intervals. this particular NPRM is both, that is why there is such an uproar over it. Some think that in its present form it has the potential to render many BE35's worthless and considerably lower the value on many more. When considering any airplane, see what the AD list is for that model. AD's are hard to figure though, because some can be relieved in different ways, so the airplane your looking at could have the AD completely removed or be faced with a 100 hr repetitive costly inspection. You don;t know until you see how that particular airplane was maintained and what approach the owner took to remedy the AD. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff King" <jeff(at)aerodata.net> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 11:03 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD > > > Scott Derrick wrote: > > > > The NPRM is addressing straight 35, A35 and B35. There are many of us that > > believe this is just a first step and the rest of the 35's will be included very > > soon.. > > Is their a concise one paragraph explanation of what these NPRM(s) are and why they are such > a problem to the Beech community? > > Don't yet own a Beech, but it was on the top of my list, and wondering how this NPRM should > affect my buying decision. > > Regards, > > Jeff King > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/12/01
Date: Apr 13, 2001
If you are going to be on the west side, towards FTW/AFW.. check into Northwest Regional at Roanoke, great bunch of guys and gals there.... see Bob Cole, and give him my regards... Milt Ciarlariello B-35 N5155C -----Original Message----- From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net> Date: Friday, April 13, 2001 6:58 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/12/01 > >Where in Dallas are you going to be? There's plenty of spots around if you >know where/how to look. Also, there's probably affordable, fully enclosed >space at an airport close to you! Let me know how I can help. >Al >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net> >To: >Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 8:18 AM >Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/12/01 > > >> >> HELP!! I'm getting ready to move to Dallas, Texas and need a new home for >my >> baby, A35 N756B, can anyone help me? >> Thanks, in advance, Terry Frymire >> tfrymire(at)alltel.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 13, 2001
"Beech-List: HEY MAJORDOMO" (Apr 13, 10:14am)
Subject: Re: HEY MAJORDOMO
Way too many virus to allow attachments. I don't want to be responsible for spreading a computer virus to over 9000 members on the various lists. I think you understand. An interesting data point; at least once a week, someone trys to submit an enclosure that does in fact have a virus in it. Matt PS - If you like to share a file with the List, simply email it to pictures(at)matronics.com along with a description and I will see that it gets put up on the FTP server. >-------------- > >I just realized this list strips all attachments. > >HEY MAJORDOMO, FIX THIS!!!! > >It weak to have a list you can't attach at least a 50k file too.... > >Scott >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 04/13/01
Date: Apr 14, 2001
> From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net> > Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/12/01 > > > HELP!! I'm getting ready to move to Dallas, Texas and need a new home for my > baby, A35 N756B, can anyone help me? > Thanks, in advance, Terry Frymire > tfrymire(at)alltel.net my new job is on the west side of Dallas. I haven't found a residence yet, though I prefer one near the place that my plane will be located. So, first priority, find a good place for my baby, then find my residence. Here's a link to the picture of my baby. http://madaket.netwizards.net/vtail/p756b/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2001
From: Jeff King <jeff(at)aerodata.net>
Subject: Re: NPRM 2000-CE-44-AD
Hi Scott: What I really was wondering, due to the outrage I am seeing, is should this affect my buying decision? What are the reoccuring costs going to be? How sure are you that this is going to go past the 47-50 year model? (which I was not considering due to the speed restrictions) I'm talking this specific AD on the V tail beeches. Been mostly considering >56 but if this A/D adds value to the 47-50 series, maybe that is good? Thanks Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Travel Air
Date: Apr 16, 2001
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=580627777 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject:
I'm about to paint my D-35, and plan to replicate the original scheme (rather unique, if you've seen one). I have found a several photos and drawings of it, but nothing I could take precise measurements from. Does anyone know where I could find a schematic or three-view drawing showing the paint scheme? Also, the parts manual lists colors, but not very helpful, anyone know where to go for original colors? Additionally, is there any easy way to open the inner gear doors without jacking and retracting? Thanks for your help!! Brian Walker D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: Re:
Date: Apr 17, 2001
Don't have any of that info, but I also have a D35 and if you could scan and email the photos of the original scheme to davewsr(at)wilmington.net I would appreciate it. As far as the gear doors go I don't think there is a safe way. I personally would like to be able to break the nose gear loose without jacking to replace the dust boot. Good Luck. Be interested to see the finished product. Dave Walen Also I still have inboard gear doors and a set of Main Wing Spars for sale. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Brian, Good luck with your paint scheme quest! We see lots of 1947 model 35s in their original livery, and maybe a B35 or two, but the rest of 'em seem to have been forgotten. I tried to find a usable authentic paint scheme for my 1954 E35, but all I had at the time was Larry Ball's "Those Incomparable Bonanzas" photo -- not nearly good enough to go by. Of course, after the plane was painted, I found quite a few references. - - - As you probably know, Beechcraft did not do schematics or blueprints for the paint schemes. Apparently they did artist drawings, chose which one paint scheme would "win" for the next model year. The paint booth guys used these drawings to paint the planes. Customers could come up with their own paint scheme for an additional cost. The best sources I've found for original paint schemes are the actual Beechcraft sales brochures for your model year. Some, maybe not all, are/were 11" wide x 8-1/2" tall, so the front cover offers a pretty good shot of the plane. The D35 brochure was actually 22 x 17 folded in quarters to 11 x 8-1/2. The cover photo is probably good enough for you to figure out a reasonably authentic paint scheme's dimensions. There's a guy who specializes in hunting down this kind of memorbilia, but it won't be cheap. Probably on the order of $100 for a 1953 D35 sales brochure. His name is: Tom Heitzman gyro(at)stuffinder.com http://www.stuffinder.com/open.htm It may take a couple of months or a year - who knows? A secondary place would be an original D35 Handbook. Not the lawyer-ized POH that you can buy today, but the original 1953 D35 Owner's Handbook. They had some photos of the plane in there in the current paint scheme. The image will be small. The handbook was a 5-1/2 x 8-1/2 sized booklet. A third option is to check the aviation magazines of 1953 -- They often have cover photos of the "new" 1953 airplane on the cover that may be useful. Or maybe a review with close-ups of the paint job around the engine cowling, which is the trickier part to reproduce for the D35. A final option may be to look on eBay from time to time. There may be some original stuff about the D35 that has come up for sale. In the interim, you can look at Bryan Wells' Bonanza page at: http://www.vintagebonanza.com/ He has a few JPEG files of brochure covers of the day under the "Gallery" button. Hey, I suppose you could also email Bryan to see if he has a higher-resolution image than the one on his website, or even the original. I have some JPEGs of the D35 brochure, but they are pretty lo-rezz. I think they are about 600 or 800 pixels across. Of course, you ought to ask the actual paint shop painters. I wouldn't be surprised if ol' "Pop" Poplawski didn't have such a drawing squirreled away. Be prepared to pay big bucks and wait a long time for him, though. As for the actual colors, the Beech Shop manual actually has the proper paint codes for each model year Bonanza, but they "may" or "may not" produce the same colors today. I do know that the ABS (or was it Ron Vickrey?) actually had an original Beechcraft sales room sample card that has the paint chips and fabric samples for a 1947 model 35. I don't think they have any others. For the D35, the following are the enamel color codes in the shop manual. (Careful, my office copy of the shop manual is kinda blurry, so they may not be exactly correct, but should give you a good starting point): INTERIOR: Brown: 6YR2/2 Gray: 5GY1/1 EXTERIOR: Black, Ebony: 118684-11 Blue: 83-2063 Blue, Blueberry 118684-5 Blue, Morning Glory 118684-3 Brown 83-1017 Gray 83-8076 Green 118684-43 Green 83-31659 Green 83-4039 Green 83-9999 Red 83-51075 Red, Chianti 118684-11 Red, Toreador 118684-27 (Urethane: 118684-316) Cream 83-39829 White, Matterhorn 118684-31 (Urethane: 118684-318) Yellow 83-31596 Yellow 83-5248 I'm pretty sure that the more common colors such as the interior grey and the ever-popular exterior "Matterhorn White" are still available, but if you go for the Blueberry Blue, all bets are off. But then, who's around to say it isn't the same? - - - Opening the inner gear doors: In a word, "maybe." You will have to detach the bolt that attaches the gear door to the retract rod. I can't remember if the bolts are accessable underneath the front bench seat or not. I would rather not risk damage these *rather* expensive gear doors, and just put it up on jacks. - - - If you are going for a show-winner for a 1953 / 2003 contest, then don't forget about the decals. There are lots of decals that are forgotten over the years, such as the "LEVEL POINT," or "HEAT TREATED ASSEMBLY," or the "GROUND HERE" decals. Could make the difference between a blue or red ribbon, you know. Good luck, Ron Davis Brian Walker wrote: > > > I'm about to paint my D-35, and plan to replicate the original scheme (rather > unique, if you've seen one). I have found a several photos and drawings of it, > but nothing I could take precise measurements from. Does anyone know where I > could find a schematic or three-view drawing showing the paint scheme? Also, > the parts manual lists colors, but not very helpful, anyone know where to go > for original colors? Additionally, is there any easy way to open the inner > gear doors without jacking and retracting? > > Thanks for your help!! > Brian Walker D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BG Wells" <wellsbg(at)home.com>
Subject: D35 paint scheme
Date: Apr 18, 2001
I have an original Beechcraft sales brochure for the D35, it has several photos of the factory paint scheme. I would probably start with calling Mr. Francis Poplawski and ask his opinion on how to achieve an accurate factory scheme. He often recommends owners repainting using the beech factory paint schemes. Frank Poplawski Aircraft Painting Rt 6, Box 108B Ennis Airport Ennis, TX 75119 Telephone: (972)875-211 PS- I'm not sure if Beech (Raytheon) ever provided a document or instructions related to repainting original schemes for the dealers or paint shops. Bryan ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 10:47 AM Subject: Beech-List: > > I'm about to paint my D-35, and plan to replicate the original scheme (rather > unique, if you've seen one). I have found a several photos and drawings of it, > but nothing I could take precise measurements from. Does anyone know where I > could find a schematic or three-view drawing showing the paint scheme? Also, > the parts manual lists colors, but not very helpful, anyone know where to go > for original colors? Additionally, is there any easy way to open the inner > gear doors without jacking and retracting? > > Thanks for your help!! > Brian Walker D-3596 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Terminaltown(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 21, 2001
Subject: Sites up and running
cadet-list(at)matronics.com, cessna-list(at)matronics.com, czech-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com, glasair-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com, piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com, rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com, rveurope-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, seaplane-list(at)matronics.com, skymaster-list(at)matronics.com, smithmini-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com Hello Listers: Terminal Town's Shopping Cart is up and running! Or http://www.terminaltown.com Thanks! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Walt Cannon" <grnlake(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Half panel modification
Date: Apr 23, 2001
I am looking for some information on the "half panel" type of modifications for an early Bonanza. The kind where everything below the piano keys stays the same, but the panel layout can be updated and the radios stacked in the right center. Specifically: 1) Does anyone know of any articles or web sites that may address this modification in detail? 2) Has it typically been done on a 337 form? 3) Anybody have a copy that they would be willing to share? 4) What of the original installation has to be cut away? Does the metal under the glare shield have to be altered? 5) Does anybody have one of these modifications that has been done by Hammock Aviation? If so, are you happy with the result? Feel free to contact me of the list if you have additional information or something like pictures, etc. Thanks, Walt Cannon Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Half panel modification
Date: Apr 24, 2001
Walt, > >Specifically: > >1) Does anyone know of any articles or web sites that may address this >modification in detail? Not that I know of. >2) Has it typically been done on a 337 form? A IA here in Indiana has done a couple of "home made" jobs, he gets a 337 signed by the Indy FSDO. He does not have and STC. >3) Anybody have a copy that they would be willing to share? I do not have a copy, sorry. >4) What of the original installation has to be cut away? Does the metal >under the glare shield have to be altered? Depends on if you want two rows of instruments or three. >5) Does anybody have one of these modifications that has been done by >Hammock Aviation? If so, are you happy with the result? I've seen them. They look impressive. The price is right. $6500 installed, plus $200 per radio, relocated. Much better price than the BDS STCd kit plus installation. Good luck, let me know what you decide. Alan Bradley A36 N16SF PS, I decided to trade the plane instead of do the panel. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TENIC(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Half panel modification
Check with Barry Sanders, Knoxville, TN... 865-573-6382. He's a Bonanza expert, and can do most anything you want done. He has his own private field and works on nothing but Bonanzas. He can tell you by phone if it's possible, and if he can get a field approval. (if one is actually necessary)He did the panel on my C-35 to include S-Tec Autopilot, Stormscope, IFR Cert. GPS, Moving Map, Intercom, KX-155, MX-12, etc... It looks great. Rick Campbell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net>
Subject: Improved Instrument Panel 35 thru N35
Date: Apr 24, 2001
I have a Beechcraft Modernization Kits booklet, November 1965, that has kit# 35-693, Improved Instrument Panel, that I believe is the new panel above the rocker switches. It is listed for $162.50. Est. Man/Hrs: 100. These kits came with the paper work for 337 approval. Someone had one of these kits for sale on the list in the past year. Kits had all the prints and part list for installation. May be some one has the paper work. Maybe ABS? Bruce Bell Lubbock, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Improved Instrument Panel 35 thru N35
Date: Apr 24, 2001
Wow, even back in '65 the Beech parts were too high! ;-) I didn't see that kit for sale! The prints and paperwork alone would have been worth the purchase price. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 7:22 PM Subject: Beech-List: Improved Instrument Panel 35 thru N35 > > I have a Beechcraft Modernization Kits booklet, November 1965, that has kit# > 35-693, Improved Instrument Panel, that I believe is the new panel above the > rocker switches. It is listed for $162.50. Est. Man/Hrs: 100. These kits > came with the paper work for 337 approval. Someone had one of these kits for > sale on the list in the past year. Kits had all the prints and part list for > installation. May be some one has the paper work. Maybe ABS? > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net>
Subject: Nose cowl Grill
Date: Apr 27, 2001
Bonanza Owners, After 38 years of ownership my A35 nose cowl grill has cracked on the upper right side. The grill had a crack in it but was stopped drilled when I bought it in 1963. As one side rests against the nose bowl, it looks like the patch would be on the forward side. The grill thickness is .037. Has anyone tried to rivet a patch on their grill? Best regards, Bruce Bell Lubbock, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TENIC(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 27, 2001
Subject: Re: Nose cowl Grill
I'm not an A & P. However, I think you're must be talking about the "grill" being the cover in front of the air filter. I'm not sure what the fix would be but I would think it could be patched, or possibly welded with heliarc, since it's not a structural part. I think Part 43 preventive maintenance allows the owner to make their own repairs to non-structural cowlings, etc.... but don't take my word for it. Check it yourself. You'd want to make sure that it's done right though, because if it came loose I guess it could possibly end up hitting the prop. Good luck with it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2001
From: Joe Brevetti <brevetti@oklahoma-city.oilfield.slb.com>
Subject: Re: Nose cowl Grill
Bruce, Have seen nose bowl cracks either tig welded, or stop-drilled, then patched. The latter is preferable in terms of stress relief to prevent future cracking. Joe > >Bonanza Owners, >After 38 years of ownership my A35 nose cowl grill has cracked on the upper >right side. The grill had a crack in it but was stopped drilled when I >bought it in 1963. As one side rests against the nose bowl, it looks like >the patch would be on the forward side. The grill thickness is .037. Has >anyone tried to rivet a patch on their grill? >Best regards, >Bruce Bell >Lubbock, Texas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Nose cowl Grill
Bruce, If it is the actual nose bowl that's cracked, then sure, mine has about three patches. A stiffener placed behind, and riveted in place. Sure wish they had used flush rivets, but hey, they are holding. If you are talking about the induction air grill below the propeller, the one that is held on by four screws, then no, mine isn't patched. Come to think of it, you ought to be able to obtain a replacement grill from a salvage yard for about the price of the repair labor. But there's something to be said for the original-issue part. Patching it ought to be doable. Ron Davis Bruce Bell wrote: > > > Bonanza Owners, > After 38 years of ownership my A35 nose cowl grill has cracked on the upper > right side. The grill had a crack in it but was stopped drilled when I > bought it in 1963. As one side rests against the nose bowl, it looks like > the patch would be on the forward side. The grill thickness is .037. Has > anyone tried to rivet a patch on their grill? > Best regards, > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "spencer whitted" <b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: pressure carb-b35
Date: Apr 30, 2001
i have a b35 with a pressure carb. since annual just two weeks ago it has been running lean. is there a mixture adjustment on the carburator. spencer b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TENIC(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 30, 2001
Subject: Re: pressure carb-b35
This is your lucky day. Click here for a web page that has plenty of info about the Bonanza Pressure Carb. You'll have to scroll down for quite a ways to get to the carb stuff. This web page has a lot of good Bonanza information. Beechcraft Bonanza ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Brian, I was surfing about the 'net the other day when I bumped into an ad for a 1953 D35 for sale, and the photos show it to be in the original paint scheme, except for the enormous N-numbers on the fuselage. Thought you'd wanna know... The ad is at the Barnstormers 2000 web page:
http://www.barnstormers2000.com/ Beechcraft > Bonanza Model 35 D35 BONANZA FOR SALE!! Reduced price $43300 OBO. INSTRUMENT PANEL .. LEFT PANEL .. RIGHT SIDE .. RIGHT SIDE FRONT VIEW .. 1953 D35 Bonanza 4700TT 1525 SMOH GX 60 gps/com KX155 KI209A STEC 30 a/p new ruddervators, tires, brakes, and many more items - too many to mention. Contact Paul Edzards located Rockford IL USA. Telephone: 815 226 1669. -- Posted 10 February 2001 -- Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser While the plane may or may not be sold, at least there are links to the photos. Best regards, Ron Davis Brian Walker wrote: > > > I'm about to paint my D-35, and plan to replicate the original scheme (rather > unique, if you've seen one). I have found a several photos and drawings of it, > but nothing I could take precise measurements from. Does anyone know where I > could find a schematic or three-view drawing showing the paint scheme? Also, > the parts manual lists colors, but not very helpful, anyone know where to go > for original colors? Additionally, is there any easy way to open the inner > gear doors without jacking and retracting? > > Thanks for your help!! > Brian Walker D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Some Parts
Date: May 02, 2001
Gang; I thought I'd toss these out there before doing the Ebay thing. I've got a gust lock for the early Bo's, did some cleaning, filing and painting and it's presentable. Like to get $40. Also have two (2), NOS inside door handle assys, old style Bo, push button on edge, not in the middle. These are still in the cosmoline and wax paper (but opened), need to get $70 each. If interested, please email me privately. Thanks Al ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: Beech-List:]
"Ron Davis" wrote: Brian, I was surfing about the 'net the other day when I bumped into an ad for a 1953 D35 for sale, and the photos show it to be in the original paint scheme, except for the enormous N-numbers on the fuselage. Thought you'd wanna know... The ad is at the Barnstormers 2000 web page: http://www.barnstormers2000.com/ Beechcraft > Bonanza Model 35 D35 BONANZA FOR SALE!! Reduced price $43300 OBO. INSTRUMENT PANEL .. LEFT PANEL .. RIGHT SIDE .. RIGHT SIDE FRONT VIEW .. 1953 D35 Bonanza 4700TT 1525 SMOH GX 60 gps/com KX155 KI209A STEC 30 a/p new ruddervators, tires, brakes, and many more items - too many to mention. Contact Paul Edzards located Rockford IL USA. Telephone: 815 226 1669. -- Posted 10 February 2001 -- Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser While the plane may or may not be sold, at least there are links to the photos. Best regards, Ron Davis Brian Walker wrote: > > > I'm about to paint my D-35, and plan to replicate the original scheme (rather > unique, if you've seen one). I have found a several photos and drawings of it, > but nothing I could take precise measurements from. Does anyone know where I > could find a schematic or three-view drawing showing the paint scheme? Also, > the parts manual lists colors, but not very helpful, anyone know where to go > for original colors? Additionally, is there any easy way to open the inner > gear doors without jacking and retracting? > > Thanks for your help!! > Brian Walker D-3596 Ron, Thanks so much for thinking about me, those pictures are very helpful. I ended up enlarging a direct side shot from the original owner's manual until it was 1/2" scale. I was then able to obtain accurate measurements, laid out the stripes (temporarily) and they looked just right. Plan to shoot first coat on Saturday (weather permitting). Thanks again, Brian Walker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2001
From: Greg Booze <macbooze(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: New Paint & Interior
Listers, Can anyone recommend a paint and/or interior shop in the pacific NW. (Wash, Ore, Ida) area. I've got a 1967 V-35 that needs both. Thanks, Greg Rathdrum, ID. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pawkind(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2001
Subject: Re: [Re: Beech-List:]
Hello Brian. I have serial number 3597 N5300B and all the paint is striped off of it and I am painting it right now too. Just put new 1/4 green glass and painted controls. I too was looking for different designs and found one on beechcraft, travelair, baron page. Rick Kindrick ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: Beech-List:]]
Pawkind(at)aol.com wrote: Hello Brian. I have serial number 3597 N5300B and all the paint is striped off of it and I am painting it right now too. Just put new 1/4 green glass and painted controls. I too was looking for different designs and found one on beechcraft, travelair, baron page. Rick Kindrick Rick, WOW!!! We're one serial number apart! Where are you located? Hopefully we can meet-up some day and park our airplanes next to each other like they were 48 years ago at the factory. I am using Dupont Centari, dark green and biege. I've pained a few parts so far and really like the material. I'll (hopefully) prime and base coat this weekend. Let's keep in touch. Thanks for the response and best of luck with your paint. Brian ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: part needed
Date: May 04, 2001
Does anyone have a wingbolt cover plate for a D35 right wing upper forward?? Thanks Dave Walen davewsr(at)wilmington.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: part needed
David, The bathtub cover fitting? Sorry, don't have one anymore. But I'll suspect that Rick at Arrell has one handy. Rick Leatherbood Arrell Aircraft 701 Del Norte Blvd., Suite 220, Oxnard, CA 93030 805-604-0439 805-604-0429 (fax) BeechedOut(at)aol.com He knows most of the Bonanza parts by heart, but here's the part number for him anyway: 35-105005-11 COVER, UPPER FRONT ATTACHING BOLT RH Ron Davis "David P. Walen" wrote: > > > Does anyone have a wingbolt cover plate for a D35 right wing upper forward?? > > Thanks > Dave Walen > > davewsr(at)wilmington.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: part needed]
"David P. Walen" wrote: Does anyone have a wingbolt cover plate for a D35 right wing upper forward?? Thanks Dave Walen davewsr(at)wilmington.net Dave, You might try Dale LeGrand in Enid Ok (580)234-6583. He's parting out several old Bonanzas, I bought a couple of parts from him, reasonably priced. Brian Walker D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Ruddervator Bearings
Date: May 06, 2001
I need to call upon the great and all knowing bonanza gods for an answer to this question. For this one I'll be forever in thy debt {if it's what I want to hear ;-) }. How can the needle bearing assys that the ruddervators pivot on be replaced? I had a looseness in the upper ruddervator attach point on the right side. If you tapped on the airframe you could get the right ruddervator vibrating. Didn't seem to concern my IA (after he checked the heck out of the assembly last annual), but it certainly bothered the hell out of me. Today I became industrious (since I'll be down for radios again) and pulled the right ruddervator off. Bolts were okay and the bushings are steel and did show some slight outer wear (-.003 in the center). The needle bearings were packed up solid and not moving. (These are located in the two pivot/attachment points.) I was able to grease them up good and get the needles moving freely again, none of them falling out as I've seen in the past. There is still the looseness of the bushing to deal with. I'm thinking both the bearings and bushing should be replaced as long as it's apart (famous last words!). Looks like the bearings are either encased in a housing/bracket that is riveted to the stabilizor (I say stabilator) or pressed into the same "housing". Anyone know which one? If they're pressed, I can press 'em out. If they're riveted, it's gonna be a real pain to drill out as many rivets as I can, spread (bend the heck out of) the housing, replace the bearing assy and them re-rivet them back together. Before I take the torch to the tail, anyone know the procedure? Thanks AL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2001
From: Avi Elbachri <avi007(at)home.com>
Subject: baring
Hi Al call 415-740-5369 and I'll help you thanks Avi ________________________________________________________________________________
From: hmerritt@net-magic.net (Merritt, Hal)
Subject: test
Date: May 07, 2001
just checking to see if I can put a message on the list Thanks Hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: hmerritt@net-magic.net (Merritt, Hal)
Subject: test
Date: May 08, 2001
Thanks guys for the reply. I bought lyc, O320 a while back for my RV6 project and got a set of exaust pipes, muffler, engine baffles, starter and gen which I would like to sell. They came off a musketeer. If any one would be interested or knows of any one please let me know, thanks in advance. Thanks again for the reply to the test I am new at this. Hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: STEWBC(at)aol.com
Date: May 09, 2001
Subject: Re: test
Hello Hal, I am new at this also and have a friend who is in Aurora, OR this week checking out the RV7. He is looking for an O320, 160 HP. He will not return home till approx. the 18th of May. Regards, Stew Cochran ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Gaisford" <gaisford(at)goldrush.com>
Subject: Trim Tabs
Date: May 12, 2001
Here's a question that came up while helping with a friends annual on his B35. It seems that his trim tabs are mounted with the flat side up. I have a D35 with the tabs mounted curved side up. Years ago I remember another F35 that the IA had switched the tabs because they were upside down. I know the thing will fly either way, but one has got to be "right". Thanks, Mike... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Trim Tabs
Date: May 12, 2001
You'll need to look in the service manual. Some are installed flat side up, while others are installed flat side down. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Good luck Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Gaisford" <gaisford(at)goldrush.com> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 10:17 AM Subject: Beech-List: Trim Tabs > > Here's a question that came up while helping with a friends annual on > his B35. It seems that his trim tabs are mounted with the flat side up. > I have a D35 with the tabs mounted curved side up. Years ago I remember > another F35 that the IA had switched the tabs because they were upside > down. I know the thing will fly either way, but one has got to be > "right". > Thanks, > Mike... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za>
Subject: Trim Tabs
Date: May 13, 2001
Trim tabs must be flat side up. This is to load the tail downwards to aid hands off recovery in a spin. Clear skies and a tailwind Regards Bob Verwey -----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Gaisford Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:17 PM Subject: Beech-List: Trim Tabs Here's a question that came up while helping with a friends annual on his B35. It seems that his trim tabs are mounted with the flat side up. I have a D35 with the tabs mounted curved side up. Years ago I remember another F35 that the IA had switched the tabs because they were upside down. I know the thing will fly either way, but one has got to be "right". Thanks, Mike... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Gill Plates
Date: May 13, 2001
I found a couple of the gills on my left side gill plate were corroded pretty good! Wondering if anyone had a bent or damaged one hanging around that they would be willing to deal on. I guess I could just remove the 2 gills and repair them, but that seems like a load of work. If I'm unsuccessful, I'll try one of the parts houses that advertise in ABS. Thanks AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRSProAds(at)aol.com
Date: May 14, 2001
Subject: Re: Gill Plates
New Bonanza owner here, so pardon my ignorance on this subject. I've noticed that all of the fuel injected Bonanzas, and some of the carburated ones as well, have vent gills on the lower cowl plate. Someone told me that only the fuel injected airplanes should have them, however I am wondering if out here in the Arizona desert, those gills might help in cooling my F35 with an E-225 engine? J. Smith N5092B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2001
From: Avi Elbachri <avi007(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Gill Plates
call me and I will give you the scope about the gills 415-740-5369 Avi JRSProAds(at)aol.com wrote: > > New Bonanza owner here, so pardon my ignorance on this subject. I've noticed > that all of the fuel injected Bonanzas, and some of the carburated ones as > well, have vent gills on the lower cowl plate. Someone told me that only the > fuel injected airplanes should have them, however I am wondering if out here > in the Arizona desert, those gills might help in cooling my F35 with an E-225 > engine? > > J. Smith > N5092B > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2001
From: Jeff King <jeff(at)aerodata.net>
Subject: Re: Gill Plates
Avi Elbachri wrote: > > > call me and I will give you the scope about the gills 415-740-5369 > Avi Put it on the list. That is what a mailing list is all about, sharing information. I'd like to hear the story. -Jeff > > JRSProAds(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > New Bonanza owner here, so pardon my ignorance on this subject. I've noticed > > that all of the fuel injected Bonanzas, and some of the carburated ones as > > well, have vent gills on the lower cowl plate. Someone told me that only the > > fuel injected airplanes should have them, however I am wondering if out here > > in the Arizona desert, those gills might help in cooling my F35 with an E-225 > > engine? > > > > J. Smith > > N5092B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: What Did The Briefer Say?
Date: May 17, 2001
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump?
The last couple of landings have resulted in the engine dying as I pull onto the taxi way. It is not running rich or loading up.. fuel pressure just drops to zero.. upon restart using wobble pump, I need 1000 rpm at least to get fuel pressure positive. Does the Thompson pump normally fail like this.. deteriorating first at low rpm's? E-185-11 engine.. 600+ hours since last fuel pump overhaul. Where's the best place to get a rebuild or replacement? Pete Scott 4579V '47 Straight 35 winginit(at)jps.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2001
From: gene smirl <cruiser50(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: power loss
Hey guys, My F35 has always flown indicated airspeed of 162 MPH. In it's recent annual 3 cylinders were replaced after breakin it flew fine on first flight. On the next flight the electric prop stuck on high. I ended up flying about 1 1/2 hours at a manifold pressure of 17 to keep the rpm from going above 2400. After the prop was fixed on the return flight I was only flying about 152 indicated airspeed at 23 squared. Have I burned something up ? I would appreciate your thoughts or input on this. It has really got me worried. Thanks guys Gene Smirl Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2001
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: power loss
Are all 3 cylinders that were replaced getting hot? DO a short runnup to find out, unless you have a multi-cylinder egt gage. Is your fuel consumption the same? Was the prop really fixed? Scott -------Original Message------- From: gene smirl Date: Monday, May 21, 2001 04:33:27 AM Subject: Beech-List: power loss Hey guys, My F35 has always flown indicated airspeed of 162 MPH. In it's recent annual 3 cylinders were replaced after breakin it flew fine on first flight. On the next flight the electric prop stuck on high. I ended up flying about 1 1/2 hours at a manifold pressure of 17 to keep the rpm from going above 2400. After the prop was fixed on the return flight I was only flying about 152 indicated airspeed at 23 squared. Have I burned something up ? I would appreciate your thoughts or input on this. It has really got me worried. Thanks guys Gene Smirl Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump?
Peter, I seem to remember that my TF-1900 fuel pump started experiencing "overhaul me" symptoms by being unable to kep a constant fuel pressure. My fuel pressure gauge looked like it was vibrating between 10 and 11 lbs. It usre sounds like the problem is not the ever-popular 'fuel pump drive pin' problem, which has a much more definite failure mode (working to not working, nothing in between), but more like one of the rotor vanes, or perhaps the seal, is about gone. I believe Aircraft Accessories out of Oklahoma rebuilds them. 2740 N. Sheridan Rd. Tulsa, OK 74115 800-255-9924 Open your wallet wide. To buy a TF-1900 fuel pump is something like $1,500.00 An overhaul is gonna run about $850.00 and probably more if the rotor is bad ($400 each!) The Lear-Romec RD7750-1 or RD7790 fuel pumps are about the same price, I think. Good luck, Ron Davis Peter Scott wrote: > > > The last couple of landings have resulted in the engine dying as I pull > onto the taxi way. It is not running rich or loading up.. fuel pressure > just drops to zero.. upon restart using wobble pump, I need 1000 rpm at > least to get fuel pressure positive. Does the Thompson pump normally > fail like this.. deteriorating first at low rpm's? E-185-11 engine.. > 600+ hours since last fuel pump overhaul. Where's the best place to get > a rebuild or replacement? > > Pete Scott 4579V '47 Straight 35 winginit(at)jps.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: power loss
Gene, Breaking in new cylinders ought to be done at a high power setting more like 24" MP, ... but you know that. I suspect that your new cylinders may have the beginnings of carbonized oil glazing the cylinder walls. A borescope can confirm this. However, glazed cylinders *still* give pretty good power performance, just rotten oil consumption. If they tinkered with your prop (and not just the pitch motor), I would suspect that your propeller is not adjusted right. Do a full power runup on the ground. With the E225 engine and the electric prop, I believe you ought to get about 2300 rpm sitting there in the runup area. (Your aiport neighbors gotta love that.) If you get only 2250, go back to the shop and have them adjust it. They need to reset the "twist" to the blade by about 3-4 teeth for each additional 100 rpm. If you get 2275 or better, then that is close enough. If this was done and you are *still* missing your 10 mph, or, your prop wasn't messed with that much and you don't want to have them mess with it, then ... Hmmm. It may still be a cylinder problem of some kind, but I'm at a loss as to say what kind. Keep us posted, Ron Davis gene smirl wrote: > > > Hey guys, > > My F35 has always flown indicated airspeed of 162 MPH. > In it's recent annual 3 cylinders were replaced after > breakin it flew fine on first flight. On the next > flight the electric prop stuck on high. I ended up > flying about 1 1/2 hours at a manifold pressure of 17 > to keep the rpm from going above 2400. After the prop > was fixed on the return flight I was only flying about > 152 indicated airspeed at 23 squared. Have I burned > something up ? I would appreciate your thoughts or > input on this. It has really got me worried. > > Thanks guys > Gene Smirl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: Bonanza Parts
Date: May 23, 2001
Gentlemen I regret to inform you; but not too much, that I no longer have my D35 Bonanza. Not too much because I now have a Twin Bonanza in its place. I have greatly enjoyed being part of this list and thank those of you that have helped me occasionally, and hope that I have been able to return the favor. Since I don't see a Twin Bonanza contingent here I will likely unsubscribe shortly; but if I can ever help let me know. I am an experienced A&P and rebuilt my D35 from a basket case while adding several STC's and converting it to the E225. Learned a lot from here and the ABS, but apparently they rarely admit the existence of the T-Bone. If anyone is interested I still have some parts i will sell individually or all at once including Main Wing Spars, Inboard main gear doors, electronic prop governor. Keep my address handy and thanks again to everyone. Perhaps I will again join the ranks of single engine Bonanza owners at a later date. Any other Twin Bo operators out there?? Will Matronics make a site available here for the Twin Bonanza?? Dave Walen davewsr(at)wilmington.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Crankcase vent question ...
I have a stupid question for the team here: An airplane engine's crankcase breather vent takes the oily gases that build up in the crankcase and vent them overboard. In the Bonanza, it may or may not pass through an air/oil separator before vented to the belly out one of the cowl flap areas. In any case, some of it *will* end up on the belly. So why is it vented overboard at all? In any of the many cars I've owned over the years, the car engine's crankcase breather vent is rerouted to the carburetor's air intake. The oily gases are mixed with the incoming air and fuel, burned, and go out the exhaust pipes. No greasy belly. Does anyone know why the aircraft engine's crankcase breather line isn't routed to the engine air intake just like cars have been doing for decades? I could get rid of an air/oil separator and eliminate my oily belly in one easy mod. Ron Davis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TENIC(at)aol.com
Date: May 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Crankcase vent question ...
I can't answer that question either. But, for what it's worth, I know of a great way to remove the oil and gunk from the belly. Before you start spraying water everywhere, take a sponge (the things you use to apply wax work well) and a can of gojo hand cleaner, and rub this on the belly. Then when you wash the rest of the plane, all you have to do is spray it off. This works really well. I installed 4 ring pistons recently, this reduced the oil consumption and oil on the belly to almost nothing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Crankcase vent question ...
Date: May 23, 2001
Probably because FAA doesn't approve. Real reason is mag spark is very marginal. Even the old points coil has a stronger spark. Remember that your plugs are gapped approximately 0.018 for a reason. Old cars were gapped 0.030 or larger. It was an old trick when you had plugs that were oil fouling to open the gap a bit. The other problem is due to the looser tolerances in an air-cooled engine, it burns oil. Too much oil and your plugs foul. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 12:55 PM Subject: Beech-List: Crankcase vent question ... I have a stupid question for the team here: An airplane engine's crankcase breather vent takes the oily gases that build up in the crankcase and vent them overboard. In the Bonanza, it may or may not pass through an air/oil separator before vented to the belly out one of the cowl flap areas. In any case, some of it *will* end up on the belly. So why is it vented overboard at all? In any of the many cars I've owned over the years, the car engine's crankcase breather vent is rerouted to the carburetor's air intake. The oily gases are mixed with the incoming air and fuel, burned, and go out the exhaust pipes. No greasy belly. Does anyone know why the aircraft engine's crankcase breather line isn't routed to the engine air intake just like cars have been doing for decades? I could get rid of an air/oil separator and eliminate my oily belly in one easy mod. Ron Davis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Crankcase vent question ...]
"Ron Davis" wrote: I have a stupid question for the team here: An airplane engine's crankcase breather vent takes the oily gases that build up in the crankcase and vent them overboard. In the Bonanza, it may or may not pass through an air/oil separator before vented to the belly out one of the cowl flap areas. In any case, some of it *will* end up on the belly. So why is it vented overboard at all? In any of the many cars I've owned over the years, the car engine's crankcase breather vent is rerouted to the carburetor's air intake. The oily gases are mixed with the incoming air and fuel, burned, and go out the exhaust pipes. No greasy belly. Does anyone know why the aircraft engine's crankcase breather line isn't routed to the engine air intake just like cars have been doing for decades? I could get rid of an air/oil separator and eliminate my oily belly in one easy mod. Ron Davis Ron, I'm sure you're aware, but anything over 8qts in my E225 oil tank ends up on the belly. I run 7 1/2 to 8 qts and get very little from vent. Also, I believe it was Colvin who suggested wrapping vent pipe with plumbers foil insulation to keep temp constant, I tried it, seems to help. Brian Walker D3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BG Wells" <wellsbg(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Crankcase vent question ...
Date: May 23, 2001
In regards to crankcase breather issue and oil being vented overboard, I'm wondering just how much oil actually is vented. Of course we know that after a long flight, the bottom skin yields evidence of oil from somewhere. Yes it can indicate to be coming from a specific vent tube from engine crankcase or air/oil separator etc. But the actual quantity of oil that passes out through the engine crankcase vent tube would be interesting to know. It actually takes very little aviation oil to make a huge mess that's temporarily remedied by the owners scrubbing and cleaning. While on the topic of measurement, consider the amount of pressure that is evident at the engine crankcase vent tube. Can I see a show of hands from the airplane owners that have measured or realize that a specific measurement exists with tolerance limits set by the manufacturer. Having a instrument panel gauge that give this pressure reading is highly useful. First it give a health reading of your engine. If a sudden increase in crankcase pressure would indicate a internal mechanical engine malfunction. If you have excessive positive pressure I would think that it could correlate with an added amount of oil going overboard with it. If your flying and start having engine problems, then a pressure reading from the crankcase is helpful in troubleshooting or diagnosing the problem. Or just gradual increase in pressure could indicate a worn out engine time for overhaul on the top end etc. So Ron, I want join the "ask a stupid question group", by adding these two items to the list. 1.) Why isn't there a STC'd crankcase pressure gauge kit available ? 2.) Why isn't there a device that can perform accurate measurements of the amount of oil that actually passes through the crankcase vent tube during flight over a given number of hours. Bryan ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:55 AM Subject: Beech-List: Crankcase vent question ... > > I have a stupid question for the team here: > > An airplane engine's crankcase breather vent takes the oily gases that build > up in the crankcase and vent them overboard. In the Bonanza, it may or may > not pass through an air/oil separator before vented to the belly out one of > the cowl flap areas. In any case, some of it *will* end up on the belly. > > So why is it vented overboard at all? > > In any of the many cars I've owned over the years, the car engine's crankcase > breather vent is rerouted to the carburetor's air intake. The oily gases are > mixed with the incoming air and fuel, burned, and go out the exhaust pipes. > No greasy belly. > > Does anyone know why the aircraft engine's crankcase breather line isn't > routed to the engine air intake just like cars have been doing for decades? I > could get rid of an air/oil separator and eliminate my oily belly in one easy > mod. > > Ron Davis > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: Re: Crankcase vent question ...
Date: May 24, 2001
when these planes were built oil was nearly free and nobody thought about the environment. If you look at the cars and trucks prior to the mid 60's you will find no collector or recycle mechanism, just a pipe to the ground. -----Original Message----- From: BG Wells <wellsbg(at)home.com> Date: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:24 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Crankcase vent question ... > >In regards to crankcase breather issue and oil being vented overboard, I'm >wondering just how much oil actually is vented. Of course we know that after >a long flight, the bottom skin yields evidence of oil from somewhere. Yes it >can indicate to be coming from a specific vent tube from engine crankcase or >air/oil separator etc. But the actual quantity of oil that passes out >through the engine crankcase vent tube would be interesting to know. It >actually takes very little aviation oil to make a huge mess that's >temporarily remedied by the owners scrubbing and cleaning. While on the >topic of measurement, consider the amount of pressure that is evident at the >engine crankcase vent tube. Can I see a show of hands from the airplane >owners that have measured or realize that a specific measurement exists with >tolerance limits set by the manufacturer. Having a instrument panel gauge >that give this pressure reading is highly useful. First it give a health >reading of your engine. If a sudden increase in crankcase pressure would >indicate a internal mechanical engine malfunction. If you have excessive >positive pressure I would think that it could correlate with an added amount >of oil going overboard with it. If your flying and start having engine >problems, then a pressure reading from the crankcase is helpful in >troubleshooting or diagnosing the problem. Or just gradual increase in >pressure could indicate a worn out engine time for overhaul on the top end >etc. So Ron, I want join the "ask a stupid question group", by adding these >two items to the list. > >1.) Why isn't there a STC'd crankcase pressure gauge kit available ? >2.) Why isn't there a device that can perform accurate measurements of the >amount of oil that actually passes through the crankcase vent tube during >flight over a given number of hours. > >Bryan > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> >To: Classic Bonanza Mailing List >Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:55 AM >Subject: Beech-List: Crankcase vent question ... > > >> >> I have a stupid question for the team here: >> >> An airplane engine's crankcase breather vent takes the oily gases that >build >> up in the crankcase and vent them overboard. In the Bonanza, it may or >may >> not pass through an air/oil separator before vented to the belly out one >of >> the cowl flap areas. In any case, some of it *will* end up on the belly. >> >> So why is it vented overboard at all? >> >> In any of the many cars I've owned over the years, the car engine's >crankcase >> breather vent is rerouted to the carburetor's air intake. The oily gases >are >> mixed with the incoming air and fuel, burned, and go out the exhaust >pipes. >> No greasy belly. >> >> Does anyone know why the aircraft engine's crankcase breather line isn't >> routed to the engine air intake just like cars have been doing for >decades? I >> could get rid of an air/oil separator and eliminate my oily belly in one >easy >> mod. >> >> Ron Davis >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 24, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Crankcase vent question ...
Bryan, I guess crankcase pressure is not a big deal ... as long as its vented to the outside. I can't expect that the pressures you'd read are not going to be all that large. You can find out how much oil is passing through the vent by merely placing a collector - an FAA-approved coffee can even, at the end of the vent line to capture what dribbles out. If you have an air/oil separator, then plug the crankcase's return, and reroute the drain to the coffee can. At the end of the flight, you'll see how much there is. I expect amounts will vary by a wide amount depending on if you have a wet-style or dry-style vacuum pump. Ron Davis BG Wells wrote: > > > In regards to crankcase breather issue and oil being vented overboard, I'm > wondering just how much oil actually is vented. Of course we know that after > a long flight, the bottom skin yields evidence of oil from somewhere. Yes it > can indicate to be coming from a specific vent tube from engine crankcase or > air/oil separator etc. But the actual quantity of oil that passes out > through the engine crankcase vent tube would be interesting to know. It > actually takes very little aviation oil to make a huge mess that's > temporarily remedied by the owners scrubbing and cleaning. While on the > topic of measurement, consider the amount of pressure that is evident at the > engine crankcase vent tube. Can I see a show of hands from the airplane > owners that have measured or realize that a specific measurement exists with > tolerance limits set by the manufacturer. Having a instrument panel gauge > that give this pressure reading is highly useful. First it give a health > reading of your engine. If a sudden increase in crankcase pressure would > indicate a internal mechanical engine malfunction. If you have excessive > positive pressure I would think that it could correlate with an added amount > of oil going overboard with it. If your flying and start having engine > problems, then a pressure reading from the crankcase is helpful in > troubleshooting or diagnosing the problem. Or just gradual increase in > pressure could indicate a worn out engine time for overhaul on the top end > etc. So Ron, I want join the "ask a stupid question group", by adding these > two items to the list. > > 1.) Why isn't there a STC'd crankcase pressure gauge kit available ? > 2.) Why isn't there a device that can perform accurate measurements of the > amount of oil that actually passes through the crankcase vent tube during > flight over a given number of hours. > > Bryan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: prop gov
Date: May 28, 2001
Does anybody have the installation drawings for the electronic prop governor?? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: prop gov]
"David P. Walen" wrote: Does anybody have the installation drawings for the electronic prop governor?? David, Send me your snail-mail address, I will copy and forward along with some personal tips. Installation was easy (unless you're claustraphobic) and the system works wonderfully! Brian Walker D3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za>
Subject: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump?
Date: May 28, 2001
Ron, you might also want to check on a ground run at different rpm for a leak from the pump seal BobV -----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Davis Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:46 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump? Peter, I seem to remember that my TF-1900 fuel pump started experiencing "overhaul me" symptoms by being unable to kep a constant fuel pressure. My fuel pressure gauge looked like it was vibrating between 10 and 11 lbs. It usre sounds like the problem is not the ever-popular 'fuel pump drive pin' problem, which has a much more definite failure mode (working to not working, nothing in between), but more like one of the rotor vanes, or perhaps the seal, is about gone. I believe Aircraft Accessories out of Oklahoma rebuilds them. 2740 N. Sheridan Rd. Tulsa, OK 74115 800-255-9924 Open your wallet wide. To buy a TF-1900 fuel pump is something like $1,500.00 An overhaul is gonna run about $850.00 and probably more if the rotor is bad ($400 each!) The Lear-Romec RD7750-1 or RD7790 fuel pumps are about the same price, I think. Good luck, Ron Davis Peter Scott wrote: > > > The last couple of landings have resulted in the engine dying as I pull > onto the taxi way. It is not running rich or loading up.. fuel pressure > just drops to zero.. upon restart using wobble pump, I need 1000 rpm at > least to get fuel pressure positive. Does the Thompson pump normally > fail like this.. deteriorating first at low rpm's? E-185-11 engine.. > 600+ hours since last fuel pump overhaul. Where's the best place to get > a rebuild or replacement? > > Pete Scott 4579V '47 Straight 35 winginit(at)jps.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za>
Subject: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump?
Date: May 28, 2001
On the lighter side of pumps, somebody writes: The money pump failed on my Bonanza last Thursday. It seems it had not been properly pumping money out of my wallet and into my mechanic's bank account for some time. A long process to troubleshoot the problem, remove the part, inspect it and contact RAPID for an AOG request. While they had it out, they also found that the cash filter was clogged, which as we all know, would slow down the flow of cash. That problem has been cured, and the Bonanza successfully pumped an easy $1,000 out of me yesterday. I expect the new money pump will work rather well for some time. I have the part number if anyone needs it. Ain't flyin' life grand? Not to be outdone, the respondent answers: I believe that there are two ADs on the money pump, but I forget the numbers. The first AD says that the money pump's wire transfer unit needs to be checked. They can be disabled from lack of use, and will fail when you need it to run large volumes through the pump. You will have to send it out to be checked for account number verification, and if they don't match your current accounts, then the wire transfer unit will need to be realigned. Normally the money pump is manually activated at the ignition key, but the second AD now requires that the money pump have the manual switch bypassed, and must run continuously. Don't forget, depending on your model of money pump, you may have the "old" style pump, which can be inadvertently installed in either direction. The new ones can only be installed to deliver a negative cash flow. Make sure yours is reinstalled properly upstream of the money pit, or the pocketbook aft of the firewall may overfill with dangerous lucre. Yep, flyin' life is grand. Usually "two" grand. :-) -----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Verwey Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 7:11 PM Subject: RE: Beech-List: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump? Ron, you might also want to check on a ground run at different rpm for a leak from the pump seal BobV -----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Davis Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:46 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump? Peter, I seem to remember that my TF-1900 fuel pump started experiencing "overhaul me" symptoms by being unable to kep a constant fuel pressure. My fuel pressure gauge looked like it was vibrating between 10 and 11 lbs. It usre sounds like the problem is not the ever-popular 'fuel pump drive pin' problem, which has a much more definite failure mode (working to not working, nothing in between), but more like one of the rotor vanes, or perhaps the seal, is about gone. I believe Aircraft Accessories out of Oklahoma rebuilds them. 2740 N. Sheridan Rd. Tulsa, OK 74115 800-255-9924 Open your wallet wide. To buy a TF-1900 fuel pump is something like $1,500.00 An overhaul is gonna run about $850.00 and probably more if the rotor is bad ($400 each!) The Lear-Romec RD7750-1 or RD7790 fuel pumps are about the same price, I think. Good luck, Ron Davis Peter Scott wrote: > > > The last couple of landings have resulted in the engine dying as I pull > onto the taxi way. It is not running rich or loading up.. fuel pressure > just drops to zero.. upon restart using wobble pump, I need 1000 rpm at > least to get fuel pressure positive. Does the Thompson pump normally > fail like this.. deteriorating first at low rpm's? E-185-11 engine.. > 600+ hours since last fuel pump overhaul. Where's the best place to get > a rebuild or replacement? > > Pete Scott 4579V '47 Straight 35 winginit(at)jps.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Money Pump Revisited
Date: May 28, 2001
A Classic! This one should have gone to the magazines, but I'm glad I was able to bring it to all of you first! The recent attachment needs attention. We can't overlook those recurring AD's! Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 1:38 PM Subject: RE: Beech-List: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump? > > > On the lighter side of pumps, somebody writes: > > The money pump failed on my Bonanza last Thursday. It seems it had > not been properly pumping money out of my wallet and into my > mechanic's bank account for some time. > > A long process to troubleshoot the problem, remove the part, inspect it > and contact RAPID for an AOG request. While they had it out, they > also found that the cash filter was clogged, which as we all know, would > slow down the flow of cash. That problem has been cured, and the Bonanza > successfully pumped an easy $1,000 out of me yesterday. > > I expect the new money pump will work rather well for some time. I have > the part number if anyone needs it. > > Ain't flyin' life grand? > > Not to be outdone, the respondent answers: > > I believe that there are two ADs on the money pump, but I forget the > numbers. > > The first AD says that the money pump's wire transfer unit needs to be > checked. They can be disabled from lack of use, and will fail when you need > it > to run large volumes through the pump. You will have to send it out to be > checked for account number verification, and if they don't match your > current > accounts, then the wire transfer unit will need to be realigned. > > Normally the money pump is manually activated at the ignition key, but the > second AD now requires that the money pump have the manual switch bypassed, > and must run continuously. > > Don't forget, depending on your model of money pump, you may have the "old" > style pump, which can be inadvertently installed in either direction. The > new > ones can only be installed to deliver a negative cash flow. Make sure yours > is reinstalled properly upstream of the money pit, or the pocketbook aft of > the firewall may overfill with dangerous lucre. > > Yep, flyin' life is grand. Usually "two" grand. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRSProAds(at)aol.com
Date: May 28, 2001
Subject: Re: Money Pump Revisited
Hello Bonanza Friends! I know that this is not what the list is for, so excuse me if I am breaking any of the rules. A pending divorce forces the sale of my beloved F35. Will sacrifice to see that she goes to a good home. E-mail JRSProAds(at)aol.com. And again, apologies if I have sent an inappropriate post. John 5092B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump?
Thanx for the advice; I have a rebuilt exchange coming for around $700. Took two hours to remove the old one (behind theT drive for the Hartzell prop). I'd suggest reading Lew Gage's article in the May 2000 ABS magazine.. he's right on regarding this operation. Bob Verwey wrote: > > Ron, you might also want to check on a ground run at different rpm for a > leak from the pump seal > BobV > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Davis > Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 4:46 PM > To: beech-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Do you suppose it's my fuel pump? > > > Peter, > > I seem to remember that my TF-1900 fuel pump started experiencing "overhaul > me" symptoms by being unable to kep a constant fuel pressure. My fuel > pressure gauge looked like it was vibrating between 10 and 11 lbs. > > It usre sounds like the problem is not the ever-popular 'fuel pump drive > pin' > problem, which has a much more definite failure mode (working to not > working, > nothing in between), but more like one of the rotor vanes, or perhaps the > seal, is about gone. > > I believe Aircraft Accessories out of Oklahoma rebuilds them. > 2740 N. Sheridan Rd. > Tulsa, OK 74115 > 800-255-9924 > > Open your wallet wide. > To buy a TF-1900 fuel pump is something like $1,500.00 > An overhaul is gonna run about $850.00 and probably more if the rotor is bad > ($400 each!) > > The Lear-Romec RD7750-1 or RD7790 fuel pumps are about the same price, I > think. > > Good luck, > Ron Davis > > Peter Scott wrote: > > > > > > The last couple of landings have resulted in the engine dying as I pull > > onto the taxi way. It is not running rich or loading up.. fuel pressure > > just drops to zero.. upon restart using wobble pump, I need 1000 rpm at > > least to get fuel pressure positive. Does the Thompson pump normally > > fail like this.. deteriorating first at low rpm's? E-185-11 engine.. > > 600+ hours since last fuel pump overhaul. Where's the best place to get > > a rebuild or replacement? > > > > Pete Scott 4579V '47 Straight 35 winginit(at)jps.net > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BG Wells" <wellsbg(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: prop gov
Date: May 28, 2001
You can find all the drawings from Airborne at, http://www.vintagebonanza.com/propeller_service_companies.htm scroll down towards the bottom. Regards, Bryan ----- Original Message ----- From: David P. Walen <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 6:51 AM Subject: Beech-List: prop gov > > Does anybody have the installation drawings for the electronic prop > governor?? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Merced Fly-in
Date: May 30, 2001
Are any Listers going to the Merced, Ca Fly-in this weekend? Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35, Las Vegas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Subject: manifol pressure gauge needed
Date: May 30, 2001
Does anyone have a serviceable manifold pressure gauge to sell or a good source? Just got quoted a price of $450.+ for the part alone. Also, I was told the face needed a custom silkscreened face. And yet another mechanic wants to see the 337 form for my E-225/8 install on my '47 straight 35. Are the faces/markings the same for the 185HP and the 225HP. Thanks for the help - Phil Cohen 3716N. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Merced Fly-in
Huh? What? There's a fly-in at Merced? Is this at the the old Castle Air Force Base (MER) aiport in Atwater? I want details. If the So. Calif. weather cooperates, then I'll be able to get outta here and attend for the day. Ron Davis "Randy L. Thwing" wrote: > > > Are any Listers going to the Merced, Ca Fly-in this weekend? > Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35, Las Vegas > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: manifold pressure gauge needed
Phil, As the E225-8 engine upgrade is an acceptable upgrade by Beech/Raytheon, it only requires a logbook entry. Since your mechanic doesn't know about this, you'll probably have to go to the FAA Web site and download the Bonanza's Type Certificate A-777 that shows the E225-8 engine on it. http://www.faa.gov/avr/air/ select 'TCDS' select Current TCDS / 'TCDS by TCDS No' Zero in on 'A-777' http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library\rgMakeModel.nsf/CurrentTCDSbyTCDSNo/ED7BC2C50466129F8525673F007369DB?OpenDocument ...and get the PDF file of the Type Certificate Data Sheet. On the very first page, you'll see: Engine: Continental E185-11 (See Item 111 for optional engine.) Item 111 (b) lists the Continental E225-8 engine. You're covered. It is factory approved. No STC (or even form 337) needed, if done as per Beech spec's. - - - As far as the Manifold Pressure Gauge goes, I don't believe that there's any difference between the E185-1 and the E225-8 limits. I'm not sure of the E185. The E225 settings ought to be: Min Green Yellow Redline (E225-8): 15.0 15.0-26.5 26.5-29.6 29.6 - - - However, the Tachometer needs new figures. Settings (rpm): Min: Green: Yellow: Redline: (E185-1/E185-8): 1300 1300-2050 2050-2300 2300 (E225-8): 1750 1750-2100 2300-2600 2650 This is with the Beech 215-series electric prop, and the Hartzell "ought" to be the same. I suspect that it has different low-rpm limits, though. (Funny - I wonder why the lo-rpm limits are so different. The engine and prop are really the same, just a higher high end. I think I'd get superb fuel economy running at 1600 rpm or so. Oh, well.) - - - As far as getting a MP gauge repaired, all I can suggest is: Keystone Instruments 9-1/2 Island Route Lock Haven, PA 17745 (570) 748-7083 (570) 748-4439 (fax) They won't be cheap, but your MP gauge will come back looking like new. Ron Davis The Five Spot wrote: > > > Does anyone have a serviceable manifold pressure gauge to sell or a good > source? Just got quoted a price of $450.+ for the part alone. Also, I was > told the face needed a custom silkscreened face. And yet another mechanic > wants to see the 337 form for my E-225/8 install on my '47 straight 35. Are > the faces/markings the same for the 185HP and the 225HP. Thanks for the > help - Phil Cohen 3716N. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Merced Fly-in
Date: May 31, 2001
It's the Merced Antique fly-in at Merced Muni., temperary tower : 126.4. I'm Flying up Friday am from N. Las Vegas with two Belted Air Power equipped Chevy V6 powered RV6's, ships running and weather permitting. Will return Sat afternoon. N4546V is a faded red & white straight 35. Hope to see you and other listers there. Randy L. Thwing > Huh? What? There's a fly-in at Merced? > Is this at the the old Castle Air Force Base (MER) aiport in Atwater? > > I want details. > > If the So. Calif. weather cooperates, then I'll be able to get outta here and > attend for the day. > > Ron Davis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: manifold pressure gauge needed
Date: May 31, 2001
Settings (rpm): Min: Green: Yellow: Redline: > (E225-8): 1750 1750-2100 2300-2600 2650 > > This is with the Beech 215-series electric prop, and the Hartzell "ought" to > be the same. I suspect that it has different low-rpm limits, though. My BE35 has a 225-8 with a Hartzell Prop. Bottom of the green is 1900. That's the lowest RPM to insure enough lubrication at 23 MP continuous. Top of the green 2300... The E225-8/hartzell prop is full pressure at high RPM so the lower the rpm the less oil going through the prop. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Another Garhawk Mount for Sale!!!
Date: May 31, 2001
My GarHawk WL107 Garmin GPS 195 mount is sold. However John Owen Jdowen(at)aol.com has another for sale for the same price $100 plus $5 shipping in the cont. USA. This is the GPS mount that attaches to the Aileron Trim Knob. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: <Jdowen(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 5:32 AM Subject: Garhawk > Scott, > I also have one that I don't need anymore. If you get more demand than you > have supply, let me know. I didn't post this to the group so you got first > shot at the sale since you posted it first. > Thanks, > John Owen > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: Merced Fly-in
Date: May 31, 2001
OK guys, count on N5155C being there for Sat morning.. B-35, tan with small N nos. dark brown trim... for details call Virginia or Ed at 209-383-4632.. This is the 44th west coast antique fly-in with airplanes arriving before 11am fri being in the judging... Milt -----Original Message----- From: Randy L. Thwing <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> Date: Thursday, May 31, 2001 9:29 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Merced Fly-in > >To: Ron (asleep at the fly-in schedule) Davis: > It's the Merced Antique fly-in at Merced Muni., temperary tower : 126.4. >I'm Flying up Friday am from N. Las Vegas with two Belted Air Power equipped >Chevy V6 powered RV6's, ships running and weather permitting. Will return >Sat afternoon. N4546V is a faded red & white straight 35. Hope to see you >and other listers there. >Randy L. Thwing > >> Huh? What? There's a fly-in at Merced? >> Is this at the the old Castle Air Force Base (MER) aiport in Atwater? >> >> I want details. >> >> If the So. Calif. weather cooperates, then I'll be able to get outta here >and >> attend for the day. >> >> Ron Davis > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2001
From: Wesley & Susan Knettle <wsknettl(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Manifold press gage
Why not just pick one up from a reliable salvage yard, senf it to Russ at Midwest Instruments in Minnesota for a calibration check and remark for your installation? Wes K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: paulmil(at)webtv.net (Paul Milwick)
Date: May 31, 2001
Subject: slick mag conversion on E225-
Has anyone done this stc'd conversion on their engine ? If you have, I would like to get your opinion. STC-SE295CH. Thanks in advance Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: paulmil(at)webtv.net (Paul Milwick)
Date: May 31, 2001
Subject: Fuel injection for E225
Anyone running with this set up? I'll be going through an engine overhaul shortly and I'm considering it. In searching the ABS CD ROM I recall someone reporting around 8+gal/hr. Thanks in advance Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: slick mag conversion on E225- message of Wed, 30
Date: May 31, 2001
Paul, Why switch from the Bendix Mags? I've heard they are almost bomb proof. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Milwick" <paulmil(at)webtv.net> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 7:18 PM Subject: Beech-List: slick mag conversion on E225- message of Wed, 30 May 2001 > > Has anyone done this stc'd conversion on their engine ? If you have, I > would like to get your opinion. STC-SE295CH. > Thanks in advance > Paul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: slick mag conversion on E225- message of Wed, 30
Date: May 31, 2001
You ought to look at all the ADs on the Bendix and its impulses. Cost of maintenance parts is very high. You can buy a new Slick and harness for the price of a re-built Bendix. I got caught with a bendix setup with both the rotating magnets and coils had to be replaced. I got two new slicks, and new harness for $510 at the time by swapping the bendixes and the old harness. But there was a special deal at the time. It is probably closer to $700 at this time. I would check with Mattituck for the current cost if I had to replace a magneto. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 9:55 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: slick mag conversion on E225- message of Wed, 30 Paul, Why switch from the Bendix Mags? I've heard they are almost bomb proof. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Milwick" <paulmil(at)webtv.net> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 7:18 PM Subject: Beech-List: slick mag conversion on E225- message of Wed, 30 May 2001 > > Has anyone done this stc'd conversion on their engine ? If you have, I > would like to get your opinion. STC-SE295CH. > Thanks in advance > Paul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection for E225message of Wed, 30 May 2001
Is this the throttle body type injection or a full blown ported system? Obviously I'm not running either at the moment but am curious as to what is available. Does anyone know more about the conversion including later model cylinders and supposedly developing 250-60 hp? Is it a fact or still languishing in the gov't paperwork? Pete Scott straight 35 4579V Paul Milwick wrote: > > Anyone running with this set up? I'll be going through an engine > overhaul shortly and I'm considering it. In searching the ABS CD ROM I > recall someone reporting around 8+gal/hr. > Thanks in advance > Paul > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: slick mag conversion on E225-message of Wed, 30 May 2001
If you dedide to rebuild your Bendix mags I can't recommend Savage Magneto in Oakland enough. 510-562-2941 Pete Scott Paul Milwick wrote: > > Has anyone done this stc'd conversion on their engine ? If you have, I > would like to get your opinion. STC-SE295CH. > Thanks in advance > Paul > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: slick mag conversion on E225-message of Wed, 30 May 2001
Date: May 31, 2001
Have to concurr with the Savage Mag recommendation.. As a side note, I doubt that it matters whether you run slicks or bendix.. I prefer the bendix because they ARE field maintainable..Albeit the slicks are cheaper.. Milt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 8:31 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: slick mag conversion on E225-message of Wed, 30 May > > If you dedide to rebuild your Bendix mags I can't recommend Savage Magneto > in Oakland enough. > 510-562-2941 > > Pete Scott > > Paul Milwick wrote: > > > > > Has anyone done this stc'd conversion on their engine ? If you have, I > > would like to get your opinion. STC-SE295CH. > > Thanks in advance > > Paul > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: slick mag conversion on E225-message of Wed, 30 May 2001
Date: Jun 01, 2001
But so are the Slicks. Emergency Aircraft Repair at Oshkosh has a full set of tooling to do so. Plus the factory manual which says that they are field maintainable. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:47 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: slick mag conversion on E225-message of Wed, 30 May Have to concurr with the Savage Mag recommendation.. As a side note, I doubt that it matters whether you run slicks or bendix.. I prefer the bendix because they ARE field maintainable..Albeit the slicks are cheaper.. Milt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 8:31 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: slick mag conversion on E225-message of Wed, 30 May > > If you dedide to rebuild your Bendix mags I can't recommend Savage Magneto > in Oakland enough. > 510-562-2941 > > Pete Scott > > Paul Milwick wrote: > > > > > Has anyone done this stc'd conversion on their engine ? If you have, I > > would like to get your opinion. STC-SE295CH. > > Thanks in advance > > Paul > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Pressure carb info.
Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a rebuild/exchange or advice. Pete 4579V ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 03, 2001
Call Lew Gage at Sunrise Filters in NV. If you have a ABS magazine his phone number will be in there. He doesn;t repair them but would know where some of the best shops are located. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 6:55 PM Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still > have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. > My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a > rebuild/exchange or advice. > > Pete 4579V > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 03, 2001
I would start looking for a leak on the supply side of your pump where it is sucking air. Sometimes you can find a leak like this by running the boost pump then looking for a wet joint. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:55 PM Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a rebuild/exchange or advice. Pete 4579V ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 03, 2001
Cy, I would guess that running the boost pump would fid the leak if it was between the boost pump and the engine driven one.? Is the boost pump before or after the wobble pump? I would think the wobble would be a good candidate for a leak. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 8:18 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > I would start looking for a leak on the supply side of your pump where it is > sucking air. Sometimes you can find a leak like this by running the boost > pump then looking for a wet joint. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:55 PM > Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still > have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. > My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a > rebuild/exchange or advice. > > Pete 4579V > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 03, 2001
You are correct. If one can lightly pressurize the tank via the vent, one might find the leak as well. I will be checking with my mechanic, Neil Pobanz tomorrow. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:35 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. Cy, I would guess that running the boost pump would fid the leak if it was between the boost pump and the engine driven one.? Is the boost pump before or after the wobble pump? I would think the wobble would be a good candidate for a leak. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 8:18 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > I would start looking for a leak on the supply side of your pump where it is > sucking air. Sometimes you can find a leak like this by running the boost > pump then looking for a wet joint. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:55 PM > Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still > have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. > My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a > rebuild/exchange or advice. > > Pete 4579V > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BG Wells" <wellsbg(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection for E225
Date: Jun 03, 2001
D & G Supply lists a STC fuel injection conversion for the E-Series engine and other fuel related products and services. You might give them a call. Let us know what you find out. http://www.dgsupply.com/products.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Milwick <paulmil(at)webtv.net> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 6:24 PM Subject: Beech-List: Fuel injection for E225 message of Wed, 30 May 2001 > > Anyone running with this set up? I'll be going through an engine > overhaul shortly and I'm considering it. In searching the ABS CD ROM I > recall someone reporting around 8+gal/hr. > Thanks in advance > Paul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 03, 2001
Cy, You trying to make me jealous!!!! I do like and appreciate my A&P/IA but..... I wish my mechanic was Neal! Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:02 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > You are correct. If one can lightly pressurize the tank via the vent, one > might find the leak as well. I will be checking with my mechanic, Neil > Pobanz tomorrow. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:35 PM > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > Cy, > > I would guess that running the boost pump would fid the leak if it was > between > the boost pump and the engine driven one.? > > Is the boost pump before or after the wobble pump? I would think the wobble > would be a good candidate for a leak. > > Scott > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 8:18 PM > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > I would start looking for a leak on the supply side of your pump where it > is > > sucking air. Sometimes you can find a leak like this by running the boost > > pump then looking for a wet joint. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:55 PM > > Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > > > Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still > > have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. > > My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a > > rebuild/exchange or advice. > > > > Pete 4579V > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2001
From: gene smirl <cruiser50(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: fuel pressure
The only way to lose pressure with a good pump is with a leak. So if the carb isn't leaking I would not spend that 1300 dollars. The old trick used to be to blow smoke in one end of the line and see where it comes out at. Now since nobody smokes anymore they actually have a smoke making machine for finding evaporative system leaks on cars. Maybe someone could loan you one or maybe they have one for airplanes too. Good Luck Gene Smirl d4222 N4211B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 04, 2001
Neil was appreciative. He agrees that there is a leak OR possibly a plugged vent line. So check your vents to see if they are clear. Running up the pressure with out running the engine might find the problem also. Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 11:22 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. Cy, You trying to make me jealous!!!! I do like and appreciate my A&P/IA but..... I wish my mechanic was Neal! Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:02 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > You are correct. If one can lightly pressurize the tank via the vent, one > might find the leak as well. I will be checking with my mechanic, Neil > Pobanz tomorrow. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:35 PM > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > Cy, > > I would guess that running the boost pump would fid the leak if it was > between > the boost pump and the engine driven one.? > > Is the boost pump before or after the wobble pump? I would think the wobble > would be a good candidate for a leak. > > Scott > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 8:18 PM > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > I would start looking for a leak on the supply side of your pump where it > is > > sucking air. Sometimes you can find a leak like this by running the boost > > pump then looking for a wet joint. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:55 PM > > Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > > > Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still > > have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. > > My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a > > rebuild/exchange or advice. > > > > Pete 4579V > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2001
From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 04, 2001
Pete: All good advice here. Pacific Airmotive in Everett, WA overhauls these pressure carbs at 1200 plus. Jim -----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 8:02 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. Neil was appreciative. He agrees that there is a leak OR possibly a plugged vent line. So check your vents to see if they are clear. Running up the pressure with out running the engine might find the problem also. Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 11:22 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. Cy, You trying to make me jealous!!!! I do like and appreciate my A&P/IA but..... I wish my mechanic was Neal! Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:02 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > You are correct. If one can lightly pressurize the tank via the vent, one > might find the leak as well. I will be checking with my mechanic, Neil > Pobanz tomorrow. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:35 PM > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > Cy, > > I would guess that running the boost pump would fid the leak if it was > between > the boost pump and the engine driven one.? > > Is the boost pump before or after the wobble pump? I would think the wobble > would be a good candidate for a leak. > > Scott > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 8:18 PM > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > I would start looking for a leak on the supply side of your pump where it > is > > sucking air. Sometimes you can find a leak like this by running the boost > > pump then looking for a wet joint. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:55 PM > > Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > > > Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still > > have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. > > My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a > > rebuild/exchange or advice. > > > > Pete 4579V > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2001
From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "spencer whitted" <b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pressure carb info.
Date: Jun 05, 2001
i just had my carb overhauled at pacific airmotive- $1500 -we just installed it last night so we havent test flown it yet- It did run up fine- workmanship seems to be excellent- they even provided us with a new manual. Overhaul was completed as promised and on time. A lady named Pam helped with all requests spencer-666js >From: "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. >Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 08:33:42 -0700 > > >Pete: > >All good advice here. Pacific Airmotive in Everett, WA overhauls these >pressure carbs at 1200 plus. > >Jim > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley >Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 8:02 AM >To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > >Neil was appreciative. He agrees that there is a leak OR possibly a >plugged >vent line. So check your vents to see if they are clear. Running up the >pressure with out running the engine might find the problem also. > >Cy Galley >Editor, EAA Safety Programs >cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> >To: >Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 11:22 PM >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > >Cy, > >You trying to make me jealous!!!! > >I do like and appreciate my A&P/IA but..... I wish my mechanic was Neal! > >Scott > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> >To: >Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:02 PM >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > You are correct. If one can lightly pressurize the tank via the vent, >one > > might find the leak as well. I will be checking with my mechanic, Neil > > Pobanz tomorrow. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:35 PM > > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > > > > Cy, > > > > I would guess that running the boost pump would fid the leak if it was > > between > > the boost pump and the engine driven one.? > > > > Is the boost pump before or after the wobble pump? I would think the >wobble > > would be a good candidate for a leak. > > > > Scott > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 8:18 PM > > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > > > > > I would start looking for a leak on the supply side of your pump where >it > > is > > > sucking air. Sometimes you can find a leak like this by running the >boost > > > pump then looking for a wet joint. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> > > > To: > > > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 7:55 PM > > > Subject: Beech-List: Pressure carb info. > > > > > > > > > > > > Just replaced the Thompson fuel pump (o'hauled to new specs) and still > > > have erratic (sometimes zero psi) fuel pressure at less than 900 rpm. > > > My next guess is the pressure carb. Who do you recommend for a > > > rebuild/exchange or advice. > > > > > > Pete 4579V > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Thanx
I have to say that the input I have received regarding my fuel pressure problem has been gratifying. I have not solved the problem yet but will post the results when I do. thanx Pete 4579V ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: new AD
Date: Jun 06, 2001
AD NUMBER: 2001-11-03 MANUFACTURER: Raytheon SUBJECT 2001-11-03 - Protect the blower motor circuit SUMMARY: This amendment adopts a new airworthiness directive (AD) that applies to certain Raytheon Aircraft Company (Raytheon) Beech Models F33A, A36, B36TC, 58/58A, C90A, B200, and 1900D airplanes equipped with a KA-33 cooling blower. This AD requires you to incorporate certain electrical parts to protect cooling blowers. This AD is the result of several reports of circuit breakers failing to protect cooling blowers on the affected airplanes. The actions specified by this AD are intended to protect the blower motor circuit and reduce the possibility of emission of smoke or a burning odor into the cockpit or passenger compartment as a result of a failed or seized blower motor. FMI: http://www.avantext.com/DailyADIndex.ASP?AD=20011103 Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: electic prop governor
Date: Jun 08, 2001
Thanks to all for the info on the text for the Airborne electronic Prop Gov. installation. I was able to print the installation text and all; but for some reason the diagrams and figures are not on the web site. Does anyone have these? Also does anyone have the part number for the rheostat in the panel? Thanks FAX to: 910 815-0133 OR davewsr(at)wilmington.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: electic prop governor
David, I'll see if I can fax you the pages shortly. The dashboard rheostat that replaces the old Flight Research flexible cable is: Potentiometer 0350-0518, R-18 10K ohms "Clarostat 58C1" Ron Davis "David P. Walen" wrote: > > > Thanks to all for the info on the text for the Airborne electronic Prop Gov. > installation. I was able to print the installation text and all; but for > some reason the diagrams and figures are not on the web site. Does anyone > have these? Also does anyone have the part number for the rheostat in the > panel? > > Thanks > FAX to: 910 815-0133 > > OR davewsr(at)wilmington.net > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: Re: electic prop governor
Date: Jun 08, 2001
Thanks Got the fax Should be everything I need Dave -----Original Message----- From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> Date: Friday, June 08, 2001 11:40 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: electic prop governor > >David, > >I'll see if I can fax you the pages shortly. > >The dashboard rheostat that replaces the old Flight Research flexible cable >is: > >Potentiometer 0350-0518, R-18 10K ohms >"Clarostat 58C1" > >Ron Davis > > >"David P. Walen" wrote: >> >> >> Thanks to all for the info on the text for the Airborne electronic Prop Gov. >> installation. I was able to print the installation text and all; but for >> some reason the diagrams and figures are not on the web site. Does anyone >> have these? Also does anyone have the part number for the rheostat in the >> panel? >> >> Thanks >> FAX to: 910 815-0133 >> >> OR davewsr(at)wilmington.net >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Thanx
Update: Fuel pressure problem solved after many hours of detective work and good input from members. She's purring now @ 13.5 PSI. Turned out to be a chafed fuel line near the firewall /left fuselage intersection. Poor retrofit work sometime prior to my ownership when the later model wobble pump was installed. If you have had this done, it is worthwhile to check the hard lines on the people side of the firewall all the way back to the wobble pump. Nasty job entailing removal of side panel, floorboards and a lot of time on your belly gazing at a maze of plumbing. Don't expect to see a fuel leak since this is the high side of the system. More details to anyone interested. E-mail me. Pete Scott Peter Scott wrote: > > I have to say that the input I have received regarding my fuel pressure > problem has been gratifying. I have not solved the problem yet but will > post the results when I do. > > thanx Pete 4579V > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Thanx
Date: Jun 12, 2001
Good work Pete! So this was the suction side and you were drawing in air intermitatantly.. Glad you stuck to it and found the problem yourself. I take great comfort in getting to know my bird personally instead of through reports from a A&P, as I'm sure you do. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 9:29 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Thanx > > Update: Fuel pressure problem solved after many hours of detective work > and good input from members. She's purring now @ 13.5 PSI. Turned out to > be a chafed fuel line near the firewall /left fuselage intersection. Poor > retrofit work sometime prior to my ownership when the later model wobble > pump was installed. If you have had this done, it is worthwhile to check > the hard lines on the people side of the firewall all the way back to the > wobble pump. Nasty job entailing removal of side panel, floorboards and a > lot of time on your belly gazing at a maze of plumbing. Don't expect to > see a fuel leak since this is the high side of the system. More details > to anyone interested. E-mail me. > > Pete Scott > > > Peter Scott wrote: > > > > > I have to say that the input I have received regarding my fuel pressure > > problem has been gratifying. I have not solved the problem yet but will > > post the results when I do. > > > > thanx Pete 4579V > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HFPILOT(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/27/01
Please Unscribe me HFPILOT(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: paint for magnesium
Date: Jun 13, 2001
If any Listers have painted their magnesium skinned control surfaces lately, could you advise what type of paint and primer you used? I am going to begin stripping flap and ailerons next week and need to make a decision. Any input is appreciated. I know one must be very careful not to put too much paint on ruddervators due to balancing concerns, are ailerons as sensitive? Regards, Randy L. Thwing, 1948 straight 35 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium
Randy, The first thing you'll need to do is to determine if your ailerons are magnesium or aluminum. The first 40 model 35's had fabric (!) flaps and ailerons, then they switched to magnesium. Gotta keep it light. (An aside note: I talked with someone last year who *swore* they saw in a shop in the 60's the frame of a fabric-covered ruddervator from an "early Bonanza." I cannot otherwise confirm that Beech actually used fabric on the ruddervators in the beginning.) It was in the late 50's I think when they finally broke down and started using aluminum for them. Beech said they are interchangeable. Yeah. In actual service, the magnesium ones are a bit more delicate. 110 mph max extension speed was for real. With aluminum flaps, you can get away with 120, but don't push your luck. Anyway, if they are magnesium, then use Magnadyne instead of aluminum's Alodyne, but you knew that. As usual, bake the magnesium for a day to get all the moisture out of the crannies before painting. As far as balancing, the ailerons are not nearly as touchy, but that's no reason to lay it on heavy. A normal coat will do fine, and you should have no problems balancing them. When I had mine painted, the shop used Sterling brand paint. The ruddervators seem okay after 3 years, but I have one bad spot in the corner of one of the flaps. The *real* proof in the pudding is in the prepped surface and the priming. If you do it right, even spray cans of Krylon will work. Ron Davis "Randy L. Thwing" wrote: > > > If any Listers have painted their magnesium skinned control surfaces lately, > could you advise what type of paint and primer you used? I am going to > begin stripping flap and ailerons next week and need to make a decision. > Any input is appreciated. I know one must be very careful not to put too > much paint on ruddervators due to balancing concerns, are ailerons as > sensitive? > Regards, > Randy L. Thwing, 1948 straight 35 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium
Date: Jun 13, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> > (An aside note: I talked with someone last year who *swore* they saw in a > shop in the 60's the frame of a fabric-covered ruddervator from an "early > Bonanza." I cannot otherwise confirm that Beech actually used fabric on the > ruddervators in the beginning.) Ron, I'm surprized at you, as you have the reputation of being our Mr. "Always Knows The Things That The Rest Of Us Can't Find"! It's a well known fact that the first few had fabric. I thought I read where they were all removed and replaced, though. You guessed it, too heavy! Anyway, I'll try to dig up the source. It may even be in St. Norm's book. Wouldn't it be so nice if they were fabric covered! I once bought a set of ruddervators that turned out to be bad. My painter said that someone used automotive primer and paint on them, causing the filliform corrosion. It seems that the auto stuff does not have the right chemical makeup to prevent corrosion on magnesium. I would like to touch my flaps up, so I also need to know what the right paint would be. Al ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium
Date: Jun 13, 2001
Ron: Thanks for the info, for my straight 35, the flap max extension speed is 100 mph, the same as for gear extension, always takes a bit of time to get slowed down. My flaps and ailerons are Magnesium. I have a jug of "DOW No. 19" left over from my ruddervator painting a couple of years ago which Beech recommends and sells for the Mag surface treatment, it is actually only Chromic Acid. I understand an epoxy primer is necessary for Mag, then correct paint. What is, and where would one get "magnadyne"? What do you do to "bake" the mag? My whole ship has been "Baking" here in Las Vegas for the last month. Thanks for the help. Randy > > Randy, >110 mph max extension > speed was for real. With aluminum flaps, you can get away with 120, but don't > push your luck. > > Anyway, if they are magnesium, then use Magnadyne instead of aluminum's > Alodyne, but you knew that. As usual, bake the magnesium for a day to get all > the moisture out of the crannies before painting. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium]
"Randy L. Thwing" wrote: Ron: Thanks for the info, for my straight 35, the flap max extension speed is 100 mph, the same as for gear extension, always takes a bit of time to get slowed down. My flaps and ailerons are Magnesium. I have a jug of "DOW No. 19" left over from my ruddervator painting a couple of years ago which Beech recommends and sells for the Mag surface treatment, it is actually only Chromic Acid. I understand an epoxy primer is necessary for Mag, then correct paint. What is, and where would one get "magnadyne"? What do you do to "bake" the mag? My whole ship has been "Baking" here in Las Vegas for the last month. Thanks for the help. Randy > > Randy, >110 mph max extension > speed was for real. With aluminum flaps, you can get away with 120, but don't > push your luck. > > Anyway, if they are magnesium, then use Magnadyne instead of aluminum's > Alodyne, but you knew that. As usual, bake the magnesium for a day to get all > the moisture out of the crannies before painting. Randy, Funny you should mention painting mag control surfaces, I was just washing the paint of my hands after painting mine! I used Magnadyne from aircraft spruce (cheap) and it seemed to do nothing, however, the magnesium was already dark from previous treatment and re-paint. I primed with Dupont "Vari-Prime" which is a two part (epoxy?)primer recommended by Dupont for magnesium. Went on well, I scuffed with scotchguard and painted three light coats of Dupont Centari. Will balance tomorrow, and I'll let you know how that goes. I just finished painting my "D" to original scheme, and it looks great (from 10 to 20 feet). Will post photos on Rocky Mtn Bonanza Society sight soon (www.rmbss.org. Best of luck, I'm no expert, but will be happy to pass on anything else I've learned. Brian Walker D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Leonejay(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 14, 2001
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium
Talk to Larry at American Aircraft Painting in Healsberg calif. He did mine Jay. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za>
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium]
Date: Jun 14, 2001
-----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Walker Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 3:52 AM Subject: Re: [Re: Beech-List: paint for magnesium] "Randy L. Thwing" wrote: Ron: Thanks for the info, for my straight 35, the flap max extension speed is 100 mph, the same as for gear extension, always takes a bit of time to get slowed down. My flaps and ailerons are Magnesium. I have a jug of "DOW No. 19" left over from my ruddervator painting a couple of years ago which Beech recommends and sells for the Mag surface treatment, it is actually only Chromic Acid. I understand an epoxy primer is necessary for Mag, then correct paint. What is, and where would one get "magnadyne"? What do you do to "bake" the mag? My whole ship has been "Baking" here in Las Vegas for the last month. Thanks for the help. Randy > > Randy, >110 mph max extension > speed was for real. With aluminum flaps, you can get away with 120, but don't > push your luck. > > Anyway, if they are magnesium, then use Magnadyne instead of aluminum's > Alodyne, but you knew that. As usual, bake the magnesium for a day to get all > the moisture out of the crannies before painting. Randy, Funny you should mention painting mag control surfaces, I was just washing the paint of my hands after painting mine! I used Magnadyne from aircraft spruce (cheap) and it seemed to do nothing, however, the magnesium was already dark from previous treatment and re-paint. I primed with Dupont "Vari-Prime" which is a two part (epoxy?)primer recommended by Dupont for magnesium. Went on well, I scuffed with scotchguard and painted three light coats of Dupont Centari. Will balance tomorrow, and I'll let you know how that goes. I just finished painting my "D" to original scheme, and it looks great (from 10 to 20 feet). Will post photos on Rocky Mtn Bonanza Society sight soon (www.rmbss.org. Best of luck, I'm no expert, but will be happy to pass on anything else I've learned. Brian Walker D-3596 Hey Guys, Does anyone have the ruddervator balance specs handy? I've just stripped and painted mine and want to check them out for balance. Bob Verwey A35 ZS-BYG ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium]]
"Bob Verwey" wrote: Bob, It's rather complicated, I have service manual instructions that I would be happy to copy and mail to you. I'm waiting for my ABS cd rom, which should show-up today, to see if there are any updates or shortcuts. Brian Walker -----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Walker Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 3:52 AM Subject: Re: [Re: Beech-List: paint for magnesium] "Randy L. Thwing" wrote: Ron: Thanks for the info, for my straight 35, the flap max extension speed is 100 mph, the same as for gear extension, always takes a bit of time to get slowed down. My flaps and ailerons are Magnesium. I have a jug of "DOW No. 19" left over from my ruddervator painting a couple of years ago which Beech recommends and sells for the Mag surface treatment, it is actually only Chromic Acid. I understand an epoxy primer is necessary for Mag, then correct paint. What is, and where would one get "magnadyne"? What do you do to "bake" the mag? My whole ship has been "Baking" here in Las Vegas for the last month. Thanks for the help. Randy > > Randy, >110 mph max extension > speed was for real. With aluminum flaps, you can get away with 120, but don't > push your luck. > > Anyway, if they are magnesium, then use Magnadyne instead of aluminum's > Alodyne, but you knew that. As usual, bake the magnesium for a day to get all > the moisture out of the crannies before painting. Randy, Funny you should mention painting mag control surfaces, I was just washing the paint of my hands after painting mine! I used Magnadyne from aircraft spruce (cheap) and it seemed to do nothing, however, the magnesium was already dark from previous treatment and re-paint. I primed with Dupont "Vari-Prime" which is a two part (epoxy?)primer recommended by Dupont for magnesium. Went on well, I scuffed with scotchguard and painted three light coats of Dupont Centari. Will balance tomorrow, and I'll let you know how that goes. I just finished painting my "D" to original scheme, and it looks great (from 10 to 20 feet). Will post photos on Rocky Mtn Bonanza Society sight soon (www.rmbss.org. Best of luck, I'm no expert, but will be happy to pass on anything else I've learned. Brian Walker D-3596 Hey Guys, Does anyone have the ruddervator balance specs handy? I've just stripped and painted mine and want to check them out for balance. Bob Verwey A35 ZS-BYG ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: paint for magnesium
Randy, Magnadyne (or Magna-Dyne) E-2390 is a chromic acid treatment for magnesium, just like Dow 19. You should be able to get the stuff from most any aircraft supply house, like Aircraft Spruce in Corona, California, (909-372-9555), or The Aero Center at Pierce County Airport, Washington. (800-331-4375). The trick is to strip the magnesium, and almost IMMEDIATELY apply the Magnadyne, as the corrosion process can begin (microscopically) within something like 30 minutes. Leaving it until the next day is guaranteed to bring grief. Then, after the Magnadyne is applied, you have to let it dry -- really dry. The rough surface tends to keep tiny bits of moisture/humidity in its crannies, and you will seal them in with your paint if you don't bake the surfaces. In your Las Vegas location, you could probably leave them out in the driveway for 5 minutes :-). The "modern" epoxy type paints in use today are so totally waterproof, there's no way for the trapped water to escape or emulsify with the wet paint as it dries. It can't go through the paint to evaporate, so it will escape by eating its way through the metal. While my plane was being painted, my ruddervators were reskinned by Aero Repair out in Hemet, Calif., and he said to bake them in the paint booth lights for 24 HOURS before painting. My painter had that deer-in-the-headlights look when Bill explained this, so I have no idea how many other planes he had painted, skipping that step. My ruddervators are fine, but I *do* have filiform corrosion in several spots around the rest of the plane -- after only 3 years. Ron Davis "Randy L. Thwing" wrote: > > > Ron: > Thanks for the info, for my straight 35, the flap max extension speed is > 100 mph, the same as for gear extension, always takes a bit of time to get > slowed down. My flaps and ailerons are Magnesium. I have a jug of "DOW > No. 19" left over from my ruddervator painting a couple of years ago which > Beech recommends and sells for the Mag surface treatment, it is actually > only Chromic Acid. I understand an epoxy primer is necessary for Mag, then > correct paint. What is, and where would one get "magnadyne"? What do you > do to "bake" the mag? My whole ship has been "Baking" here in Las Vegas for > the last month. > Thanks for the help. > Randy > > > > > Randy, > > >110 mph max extension > > speed was for real. With aluminum flaps, you can get away with 120, but > don't > > push your luck. > > > > Anyway, if they are magnesium, then use Magnadyne instead of aluminum's > > Alodyne, but you knew that. As usual, bake the magnesium for a day to get > all > > the moisture out of the crannies before painting. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Classic Bonanza Enthusiasts"
Subject: E-225 Cylinder Core
Date: Jun 14, 2001
Classic Owners; Before I put it on Ebay, is there an interest in a cylinder core for an E-225? This came with one of my airplanes as "good", but didn't depart with it. No valve or assemblies, not chromed, fins look good, can't see any cracks, all threads look grand, doesn't appear to have any helicoils. Probably a good core. Offers? Thanks Al ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Forwarded From the ABS
Date: Jun 16, 2001
I received this email today, as I'm sure most of you have, regarding the impending AD on the old girls. Also, in the snail mail was a hard letter from Nancy and a form letter to be used for comments. Nice touch, and I would sure like to think it was this list that got 'em going, but the time to act is now, if you haven't already! I strongly suggest that the letter supplied be used as a base and that each submitter massage it to show their individual thoughts. Al ABS has activated an immediate letter-writing campaign to the FAA about the revision of Raytheon Service Bulletin 27-3358 relating to compliance requirements to lift the speed restriction of AD 98-13-02. For full details and a sample letter, go to the ABS website at www.bonanza.org. The revised SB hasn't yet been submitted, but ABS has heard that it will contain two requirements that will continue to make compliance difficult. Although the comment period for the related NPRM ended May 25, we have been told that the FAA will continue to accept letters through the coming week to allow comment on what we expect to be continuing problems with the revision. Please act quickly if you would like to send a letter in this regard. Nancy Johnson, executive director American Bonanza Society ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Biggs Aircraft
Date: Jun 16, 2001
Gang; Dropped the K model off at Biggs this morning for some work. If anyone needs to see a first rate shop and facility, you need to visit Biggs, just northeast of OKC. I think it's 43OK and the GPS didn't have it. 4000 ft. sod runway was like landing on asphalt. Glen is a great guy to deal with (so far), the shop was absolutely eat-off-the-floor clean and the office was even cleaner. All the aircraft being worked on looked fabulous and I was kinda embarrassed bringing my old flying machine in. Serial #35 was benched on the side of the hangar waiting for completion en route to be a classic winner. I'm having him remove all the old Tactair servos and rerig the controls, cabin door work and spar check AD. I'll keep all of you posted. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2001
From: Eric Poole <epoole(at)scoot.netis.com>
Subject: URGENT CALL TO ACTION
Just received the following on the ABS mailing list... Subject: URGENT CALL TO ACTION ABS has activated an immediate letter-writing campaign to the FAA about the revision of Raytheon Service Bulletin 27-3358 relating to compliance requirements to lift the speed restriction of AD 98-13-02. For full details and a sample letter, go to the ABS website at www.bonanza.org. The revised SB hasn't yet been submitted, but ABS has heard that it will contain two requirements that will continue to make compliance difficult. Although the comment period for the related NPRM ended May 25, we have been told that the FAA will continue to accept letters through the coming week to allow comment on what we expect to be continuing problems with the revision. Please act quickly if you would like to send a letter in this regard. Nancy Johnson, executive director American Bonanza Society ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2001
From: GILLES BEDA <beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM>
Subject: Re: Biggs Aircraft
DEAR SIR I WILL BE INTERESTING IN THE OLD TACTAIR IF YOU DONT WANT TO PUT IT BACK MAY BE I CAN BUY IT FROM YOU WITH ACCESSORY GILLES BEDA PARIS FRANCE EMAIL BEDAGIL(at)NOOS.FR BEDA GILLES TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49 E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM ----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier ----- Web : www.netcourrier.com - Minitel : 3615 NETCOURRIER Tlphone : 08 36 69 00 21 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: URGENT CALL TO ACTION
Date: Jun 17, 2001
Eric, In light of the short time period, is there an e-mail address for this letter? Federal Aviation Administration 15 June 2001 Central Region Office of Regional Counsel Attention: Rules Docket No. 2000-CE-44-AD 901 Locust, Room 506 Kansas City, MO 64106 To whom it may concern: I am an A&P/IA, and the owner of a Be-B-35, which is affected by the speed restriction Airworthiness Directive, AD 98-13-02. I am writing to voice my concern about the revision of Service Bulletin 27-3358, which dictates compliance requirements that lift the speed restriction. Please consider the following: 1. The owner/operator, or an individual who offers engineering services, must catalog all existing modifications and repairs, photograph the affected areas, document the engineering data, confirm compatibility of multiple modifications and verify that all applicable AD's have been complied with. These materials are then to be sent to the FAA. Is it really the intent to force owners/operators to attain review of previously approved modifications and repairs - and to cause the FAA to receive, review and store this repetitive paperwork. It should be the responsibility of we the IA's, to perform such reviews and determine if any modification or repair needs further review by a DER - which is the process currently in place. Can't we presume the current system "ain't broke"? 2. The original Service Bulletin calls for specific ultrasonic equipment to measure skin thickness of affected aircraft. Raytheon may expand the list of tools, but they would be all ultrasonic. It is unnecessary to require ultrasonic equipment for testing skin thickness in all cases, when direct measurement through the use of calipers or micrometers can accomplish this in most cases. 3. I respectfully request that the FAA continue to allow we, the IA's, to do our jobs in reviewing modifications and repairs and determining whether DER review is called for. I also request that the FAA allow the IA's to determine whether ultrasound testing is required on a case by case basis. Sincerely, Milton J. Ciarlariello #2590516 A&P/IA (530)269-6636 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2001
From: Eric Poole <epoole(at)scoot.netis.com>
Subject: Re: URGENT CALL TO ACTION
>Eric, In light of the short time period, is there an e-mail address for this >letter? I don't know ... I was just relaying the message to this list from the ABS Bonanza list. Supposedly you have to send your letter in triplicate by mail. Yet, I read that the FAA was also accepting them by e-mail (but I don' t know the address). It's unknown whether they want you to send them the e-mail in triplicate. ;-) I'll see what I can find, meanwhile hopefully there'll be someone else on this list who can give you a more definitive answer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: URGENT CALL TO ACTION
Date: Jun 17, 2001
You can fax your letter to 816-329-3771 You only need to fax one copy, fax it today, they leave the fax on late. If you want verification call 816-329-3760, but you have to call before 5 pm Kansas time. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2001
From: Eric Poole <epoole(at)scoot.netis.com>
Subject: "Field Approval Process" meeting in Washington DC
The following showed up in one of the aviation newsgroups this afternoon. I am planning to go. Anyone else? = = = = [Federal Register: June 12, 2001 (Volume 66, Number 113)] [Notices] [Page 31748] From the Federal Register Online via GPO Access [wais.access.gpo.gov] [DOCID:fr12jn01-144] DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION Federal Aviation Administration Field Approval Process AGENCY: Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) DOT. ACTION: Notice of meeting. SUMMARY: The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) is issuing this notice to advise the public of a meeting to discuss public concerns with the FAA Field Approval Process. DATES: The meeting will be held on July 19, 2001, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Arrangement for presentations must be made by July 12, 2001. ADDRESSES: The meeting will be held at the 3rd Floor FAA Auditorium, 800 Independence Ave., SW., Washington, DC 20591. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: Wayne Fry, Federal Aviation Administration, AFS-300, 800 Independence Avenue, SW., Washington, DC 20591, telephone (202) 493-5228, fax (202) 267-5115. SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION: The meeting will be held on July 19, 2001, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the 3rd floor FAA Auditorium, Washington, DC. The agenda will include: Field Approval Process Improvement. Attendance is open to the interested public, but will be limited to the space available. The public must make arrangements by July 12, 2001, to present oral statements at the meeting. To make arrangements to present oral statements, please contact the person listed under the heading for FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT. In addition, sign and oral interpretation can be made available at the meeting, as well as an assistive listening device, if requested 10 calendar days before the meeting. Arrangements may be made by contacting the person listed under the heading FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT. Issued in Washington, DC, June 7, 2001. Nicholas A. Sabatini, Director, Flight Standards Service. [FR Doc. 01-14746 Filed 6-7-01; 8:45 am] BILLING CODE 4910-13-M ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRSProAds(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 18, 2001
Subject: Re: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul
Hello. Would anyone like to recommend a good shop for O/H of E-225-8 engine? Would prefer western U.S. if possible. Thanks, JR Smith Phoenix, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TENIC(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 18, 2001
Subject: Re: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul
Cal West -- See Ad in Trade-A-Plane under Continental Engines. I think it cost about $16,000. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul
JR, I had my E225-8 overhauled by: Ly-Con Engine Rebuilders 8231 West Doe Ave. Visalia, CA 93291 559-651-1070 http://www.lycon.com/ Got the 4-ring pistons, and it didn't leak oil (at all!) until I hit the 250 hour mark, and now its just a bit on the keel. The other one that seems to know what they are doing are: Cal-Aero West Ramona Aircraft Salvage ... but others will have to tell you about them. Good luck, Ron Davis JRSProAds(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Hello. Would anyone like to recommend a good shop for O/H of E-225-8 engine? > Would prefer western U.S. if possible. > > Thanks, > > JR Smith > Phoenix, AZ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul
Date: Jun 18, 2001
Victor Aviation at Palo Alto CA has an enviable reputation.. They did my E185-11, and it's running strong with a qt every 4 to 5 hrs (Which may be breather oil). Now has 500hrs smoh. Milt N5155C D2440 BE-B35 ----- Original Message ----- From: <JRSProAds(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 3:48 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul > > Hello. Would anyone like to recommend a good shop for O/H of E-225-8 engine? > Would prefer western U.S. if possible. > > Thanks, > > JR Smith > Phoenix, AZ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TENIC(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 18, 2001
Subject: Re: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul
Whatever you do get the 4 ring pistons. I just installed them in my E-225 and it reduces the oil consumption to practially nothing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul
Date: Jun 18, 2001
I did my own OH but would highly recommend Cruise Air Aviation in Ramona. They are in the ABS rag and TAP under Accessory OH, but I believe Dick does do complete OH's. I had them OH my accessory case AND they did me right. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: <JRSProAds(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 4:48 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: E-225-8 Engine Overhaul > > Hello. Would anyone like to recommend a good shop for O/H of E-225-8 engine? > Would prefer western U.S. if possible. > > Thanks, > > JR Smith > Phoenix, AZ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2001
From: Eric Poole <epoole(at)scoot.netis.com>
Subject: Re: Update Re: "Field Approval Process" meeting in Washington
DC <9b.16a99d80.285fc207(at)cs.com> I just got off the phone with Wayne Fry of the FAA, regarding the Field Approval Process meeting next month in WashDC, the notice of which is copied below. According to Mr. Fry, this meeting is the second of two meetings on this topic, the first of which was held on February 23, 2001. If you will go to http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/field_approval.doc you will find a Microsoft Word document entitled "Field Approval Process Improvement Team Report", dated January 10, 2001. From what I understand, this report was created and used as a basis for the Feb. 23 public meeting. This meeting coming up next month is intended to review what the FAA has done since the last meeting, and give the public a progress report. Mr. Fry mentioned to me that a number of the "Alphabet groups", including the AOPA, have requested time and permission to make presentations at next month's meeting. A transcript of the first (February) meeting is available for purchase from some court-reporter outfit the FAA hired called Executive Court Reporters, Inc. It is some 170 pages in length, plus some Powerpoint slides used in the presentations. I have called them to find out how much it costs to get a copy, and will let you all know when they call me back. I have asked Mr. Fry if I can get permission to videotape the meeting and make the tapes available to others who could not (or did not wish to) attend the meeting. He said he didn't know, that no one had ever asked him that before, but he'd find out and get back to me. More information as I get it... Eric = = = = >[Federal Register: June 12, 2001 (Volume 66, Number 113)] >[Notices] >[Page 31748] > From the Federal Register Online via GPO Access [wais.access.gpo.gov] >[DOCID:fr12jn01-144] > > >DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION > >Federal Aviation Administration > >Field Approval Process > >AGENCY: Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) DOT. > >ACTION: Notice of meeting. > > >SUMMARY: The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) is issuing this notice >to advise the public of a meeting to discuss public concerns with the FAA >Field Approval Process. > >DATES: The meeting will be held on July 19, 2001, 9 a.m. to 4 >p.m. Arrangement for presentations must be made by July 12, 2001. > >ADDRESSES: The meeting will be held at the 3rd Floor FAA Auditorium, 800 >Independence Ave., SW., Washington, DC 20591. > >FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: Wayne Fry, Federal Aviation >Administration, AFS-300, 800 Independence Avenue, SW., Washington, DC >20591, telephone (202) 493-5228, fax (202) 267-5115. > >SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION: The meeting will be held on July 19, 2001, from >9 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the 3rd floor FAA Auditorium, Washington, DC. The >agenda will include: Field Approval Process Improvement. Attendance is >open to the interested public, but will be limited to the space available. >The public must make arrangements by July 12, 2001, to present oral >statements at the meeting. To make arrangements to present oral >statements, please contact the person listed under the heading for FOR >FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT. In addition, sign and oral interpretation can >be made available at the meeting, as well as an assistive listening >device, if requested 10 calendar days before the meeting. Arrangements may >be made by contacting the person listed under the heading FOR FURTHER >INFORMATION CONTACT. > > Issued in Washington, DC, June 7, 2001. >Nicholas A. Sabatini, >Director, Flight Standards Service. >[FR Doc. 01-14746 Filed 6-7-01; 8:45 am] >BILLING CODE 4910-13-M ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2001
From: Avi Elbachri <avi007(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Update Re: Help !! please, forward to all bonanza
owners. Please, Forward to all bonanza owners !!!! HELP: I had Aviation Research Systems, Inc. install a new panel in my H35. It was not a good experience. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who may also feel that they received less than they bargained for from these people. Larry Goldfield Oakland, CA USA - Sunday, June 10, 2001 at 08:43:08 (PDT) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2001
From: Avi Elbachri <avi007(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: ARS
GLDFLD(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Name: kurt affidafit.doc > kurt affidafit.doc Type: Microsoft Word Document (application/msword) > Encoding: base64 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2001
From: Avi Elbachri <avi007(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: ARS
GLDFLD(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Name: Rick Clark letter.doc > Rick Clark letter.doc Type: Microsoft Word Document (application/msword) > Encoding: base64 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za>
Subject: Debonair wing or spares wanted
Date: Jun 20, 2001
Hi Guys I have just acquired a B35-33 Debonair 1960, ZS-TCT (South Africa), serial CD 144. The bird had a ground incident which wrecked the left wing outboard section main spar and the factory does not stock or make some of the parts anymore. Does anyone know where I could source parts or perhaps a complete wing excluding control surfaces, tanks, etc. ? What other Bonanaza wing would fit on the aircraft? I have a spare right wing; are the sparcaps interchangeable? Regards Bob Verwey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Debonair wing or spares wanted
Date: Jun 21, 2001
Bob, You might try Air Salvage of Dallas. www.asod.com Their telephone numbers are: 800-336-6399 * 972-227-1111. They have a pretty good inventory of parts. Alan Bradley A36 N16SF >From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Beech-List: Debonair wing or spares wanted >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:53:13 +0200 > > >Hi Guys > >I have just acquired a B35-33 Debonair 1960, ZS-TCT (South Africa), serial >CD 144. The bird had a ground incident which wrecked the left wing outboard >section main spar and the factory does not stock or make some of the parts >anymore. > Does anyone know where I could source parts or perhaps a complete wing >excluding control surfaces, tanks, etc. ? > What other Bonanaza wing would fit on the aircraft? > I have a spare right wing; are the sparcaps interchangeable? > >Regards >Bob Verwey > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Debonair wing or spares wanted
Date: Jun 21, 2001
Bob; Are you located in SA? If so, it wouldn't be too practical to try to get one from the states. Maybe easier to remove the wing and ship it somewhere for repair. You can check the parts books, but I think the wings were the same. If not, I'm sure one could be modified to fit the other. Good Luck. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 3:50 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Debonair wing or spares wanted > Bob, > > You might try Air Salvage of Dallas. www.asod.com Their telephone numbers > are: 800-336-6399 * 972-227-1111. They have a pretty good inventory of > parts. > > Alan Bradley > A36 N16SF > > > >From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za> > >Subject: Beech-List: Debonair wing or spares wanted > >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:53:13 +0200 > >Hi Guys > > > >I have just acquired a B35-33 Debonair 1960, ZS-TCT (South Africa), serial > >CD 144. The bird had a ground incident which wrecked the left wing outboard > >section main spar and the factory does not stock or make some of the parts > >anymore. > > Does anyone know where I could source parts or perhaps a complete wing > >excluding control surfaces, tanks, etc. ? > > What other Bonanaza wing would fit on the aircraft? > > I have a spare right wing; are the sparcaps interchangeable? > > > >Regards > >Bob Verwey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject:
Date: Jun 21, 2001
Optional Fuel System (Item 107) 107. 20 gal. auxiliary fuel tank. When this item is installed in Model 35, baggage arm is +145 and weight of baggage and fuel must not exceed 120 lb. This is from the TC and works for 35 thru G35 and R 35 models. On the F&G models you could also have two 10 gallon wings tanks instead of the fuselage 20 gallon. Then later models went to the wing tanks only according to the TC. Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club Newsletter Editor & EAA TC www.bellanca-championclub.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za>
Subject: Debonair wing or spares wanted
Date: Jun 22, 2001
Thanks for the response, guys. I have removed the spar and there is suprisingly little other damage apart from the outer leading edge. Them piano wires........ummmmm.......but we got them out eventually. I must say that seeing Beech engineering down to this detail really makes you appreciate owning the finest there is! I guess getting a spar only to South Africa is not going to be so bad shipping-wise. Bob Verwey -----Original Message----- From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of A J DeMarzo Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 11:27 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Debonair wing or spares wanted Bob; Are you located in SA? If so, it wouldn't be too practical to try to get one from the states. Maybe easier to remove the wing and ship it somewhere for repair. You can check the parts books, but I think the wings were the same. If not, I'm sure one could be modified to fit the other. Good Luck. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 3:50 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Debonair wing or spares wanted > Bob, > > You might try Air Salvage of Dallas. www.asod.com Their telephone numbers > are: 800-336-6399 * 972-227-1111. They have a pretty good inventory of > parts. > > Alan Bradley > A36 N16SF > > > >From: "Bob Verwey" <skymaster(at)icon.co.za> > >Subject: Beech-List: Debonair wing or spares wanted > >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 18:53:13 +0200 > >Hi Guys > > > >I have just acquired a B35-33 Debonair 1960, ZS-TCT (South Africa), serial > >CD 144. The bird had a ground incident which wrecked the left wing outboard > >section main spar and the factory does not stock or make some of the parts > >anymore. > > Does anyone know where I could source parts or perhaps a complete wing > >excluding control surfaces, tanks, etc. ? > > What other Bonanaza wing would fit on the aircraft? > > I have a spare right wing; are the sparcaps interchangeable? > > > >Regards > >Bob Verwey ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2001
From: Michael Derby <mderby(at)mail.arc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Debonair wing or spares wanted
I checked my parts manual, it doesn't break out the spar components, it only lists the spar assemblies, and there are left and right spar assemblies. So the spar assemblies are not interchangeable, but I can't tell what spar components are interchangeable from the parts manual. Not much help, sorry. Mike Derby > >Hi Guys > >I have just acquired a B35-33 Debonair 1960, ZS-TCT (South Africa), serial >CD 144. The bird had a ground incident which wrecked the left wing outboard >section main spar and the factory does not stock or make some of the parts >anymore. > Does anyone know where I could source parts or perhaps a complete wing >excluding control surfaces, tanks, etc. ? > What other Bonanaza wing would fit on the aircraft? > I have a spare right wing; are the sparcaps interchangeable? > >Regards >Bob Verwey ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: [Fwd: not my favorite but I am sending it on anyway!]
This is a forwarded message that I think appropriate for our venue; if it is unacceptable.. so be it.. kick me out! by smtp05.mail.onemain.com (qmail-ldap-1.03) with SMTP From: VACAFARM(at)aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:12:36 EDT Subject: not my favorite but I am sending it on anyway! > > > > > Airplanes vs Women > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes can kill you quickly; a woman takes her time. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes can be turned on by a flick of a switch. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't get mad if you 'touch and go.' > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't object to a preflight inspection. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes come with manuals to explain their operation. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes have strict weight and balance limits. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes can be flown any time of the month. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't come with in-laws. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't care about how many other airplanes you have flown > > > > > before. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes and pilots both arrive at the same time. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't mind if you like to look at other airplanes. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't mind if you buy airplane magazines. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes expect to be tied down. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't comment on your piloting skills. > > > > > > > > > > Airplanes don't whine unless something is really wrong. > > > > > > > > > > However, when airplanes go quiet, just like women, it's a bad > thing. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium
Date: Jun 26, 2001
Listers: I am attempting to strip and paint my magnesium skinned flaps and ailerons. I have pretty much stripped the paint, but am faced what appears to be an old layer of Zinc-Chromate. Regular stripper (Staz-wett) doesn't seem to touch it. I have tried rubbing it with a Scotchbrite pad, but that just seems to shine the metal around the paint patch. Can anyone advise a stripper that will touch this stuff, or another method? I'm off to try MEK, then toluene, if I live, I'll check for responses. Regards, Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BG Wells" <wellsbg(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium
Date: Jun 26, 2001
Neil Pobanze of ABS mentioned to me today that Beech used zinc chromate and Acrylic enamel to paint these at the factory. We were in a discussion about weight. Be careful about putting to much paint or to many coats of paint. Imrom is usually a heavier paint. Metallic paint with lots of solids is heavy. You might want to weigh the ruddervators assemblies when you have them stripped and again when painted and ready to install. Do you have reskinned ruddervators (with lots of rivets along the trailing edge) ? New methods of reskinning are being explored by reducing weight and using less rivets thus reducing total weight. Also going back to original methods of spot welding the magnesium like Beech did originally. Oh yes don't be surprised when one day you see carbon fiber ruddervators available. You will see very soon the nose gear doors and inboard gear doors in carbon fiber weighing less that the original metal doors available soon. Recap 1.) Use as light weight paint as possible. 2.) Use as little paint as possible. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 4:38 PM Subject: Beech-List: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium > > Listers: > I am attempting to strip and paint my magnesium skinned flaps and > ailerons. I have pretty much stripped the paint, but am faced what > appears to be an old layer of Zinc-Chromate. Regular stripper > (Staz-wett) doesn't seem to touch it. I have tried rubbing it with a > Scotchbrite pad, but that just seems to shine the metal around the paint > patch. Can anyone advise a stripper that will touch this stuff, or > another method? I'm off to try MEK, then toluene, if I live, I'll check > for responses. > Regards, > Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium
Date: Jun 26, 2001
Thanks for the input BG, I am only working on Flaps and ailerons, any help with my original question? Regards, Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: BG Wells <wellsbg(at)home.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 5:06 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium > > Neil Pobanze of ABS mentioned to me today that Beech used zinc chromate and > Acrylic enamel to paint these at the factory. We were in a discussion about > weight. Be careful about putting to much paint or to many coats of paint. > Imrom is usually a heavier paint. Metallic paint with lots of solids is > heavy. You might want to weigh the ruddervators assemblies when you have > them stripped and again when painted and ready to install. Do you have > reskinned ruddervators (with lots of rivets along the trailing edge) ? New > methods of reskinning are being explored by reducing weight and using less > rivets thus reducing total weight. Also going back to original methods of > spot welding the magnesium like Beech did originally. Oh yes don't be > surprised when one day you see carbon fiber ruddervators available. You > will see very soon the nose gear doors and inboard gear doors in carbon > fiber weighing less that the original metal doors available soon. > > Recap > > 1.) Use as light weight paint as possible. > 2.) Use as little paint as possible. > > > > > > Listers: > > I am attempting to strip and paint my magnesium skinned flaps and > > ailerons. I have pretty much stripped the paint, but am faced what > > appears to be an old layer of Zinc-Chromate. Regular stripper > > (Staz-wett) doesn't seem to touch it. I have tried rubbing it with a > > Scotchbrite pad, but that just seems to shine the metal around the paint > > patch. Can anyone advise a stripper that will touch this stuff, or > > another method? I'm off to try MEK, then toluene, if I live, I'll check > > for responses. > > Regards, > > Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BG Wells" <wellsbg(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium
Date: Jun 26, 2001
Jasco Super stip works well. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium
Date: Jun 27, 2001
Randy, MEK should work. But, remove the flaps and ailerons. Do the stripping outdoors, and wear a mask, and goggles. Old clothes are a must too. Hope that helps. Alan Bradley A36 N16SF >From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Beech-List: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium >Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:38:16 -0700 > > >Listers: > I am attempting to strip and paint my magnesium skinned flaps and >ailerons. I have pretty much stripped the paint, but am faced what >appears to be an old layer of Zinc-Chromate. Regular stripper >(Staz-wett) doesn't seem to touch it. I have tried rubbing it with a >Scotchbrite pad, but that just seems to shine the metal around the paint >patch. Can anyone advise a stripper that will touch this stuff, or >another method? I'm off to try MEK, then toluene, if I live, I'll check >for responses. >Regards, >Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net>
Subject: Granville Strut Seal
Date: Jul 04, 2001
Happy Fourth of July All, Went to fly my A35 to the annual 4th of July fly-in breakfast and when I stepped on the wing walk the right strut hit bottom! It has been low and yesterday I thought I had pumped it back up. Has anyone used Granville Strut Seal? I would like to know your results. Best Regards, Bruce Bell Lubbock, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Granville Strut Seal
Date: Jul 04, 2001
My hangar mate used it in his Cherokee after it sat for a long time. Worked well as a quick temporary fixit, but he would up rebuilding the struts about a month later. If you had it in stock, you could have probably done well enough with it to get to the pancake breakfast! Good luck Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 9:02 AM Subject: Beech-List: Granville Strut Seal > > Happy Fourth of July All, > Went to fly my A35 to the annual 4th of July fly-in breakfast and when I > stepped on the wing walk the right strut hit bottom! It has been low and > yesterday I thought I had pumped it back up. Has anyone used Granville Strut > Seal? I would like to know your results. > Best Regards, > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com>
Subject: newer seats in older Vtails
Date: Jul 04, 2001
fellow Bonanza owners I need to find out if any of you have put the newer style seats in on older bonanza. I have a 1948 model 35. It has the old steel tube rear spar but the front spar is Beech kit number 2 (basically the aluminium front spar that was put in later models.) I have decided to put the old bench seats back in for now and simply get the plane flying but I want to put in a set of newer seats from an M model bonanza later. I was able to purchase a great set of M model seats for a great price and I really want to put them in. They are exactly what my wife wants in the plane. She wants to be able to lay back and sleep on trips and she wants the same for the kids in the back. Sleeping kids on a trip are a true blessing. The problem is that the spar does not have the fittings that the newer seats use. The front seats have two posts that fit into a fitting that is attached to the front of the front spar. The fittings on the out side of each seat (right on the right seat and left fitting on the left) are attached to the spar using the Joe bolts that are part of the spar. And to drill out the Joe bolts leaves me with no way of replacing the bolts short of pulling the spar. That is a bit more than I want to do. The clamps on the inside are attached directly to the spar with rivets. I hope that everyone understands that I really am not a fan of drilling into a spar unless it is structurally OK. The back seat still has the steel tube spar and other than replacing the spar with a later model aluminum spar. (I may do this in the distant future.) does anyone know of an approved way of doing this? I am thinking of a clip that would mate the two structures or perhaps building a cover that attaches to the spar and then the newer model seat attaches to the cover. Any ideas would be appreciated I would like to replace the front seat first and then work on the back seat. I fly from the front so it is more important. Has anyone out there done this? If so how did you do it? Does anyone have an STC or 337 that would help me? Any help would be appreciated Thanks Steve Dortch 1948 Straight 35 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: Granville Strut Seal
Date: Jul 04, 2001
Al is probably right on this one.. I would suggest you clean the strut very well, service it with the right amount of 5606, and then pump it up to where you can lift the wing by hand and get full extension. Leave it there overnight for the seal to take a new set, and then reduce pressure to normal spec extension. Actually, while you have it on jacks for oil service, cycle the strut by hand with the 5606 hooked up like a siphon, and it will flush out the cylinder and remove any minor bits of dirt that may have sneaked by the wiper. Milt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 7:02 AM Subject: Beech-List: Granville Strut Seal > > Happy Fourth of July All, > Went to fly my A35 to the annual 4th of July fly-in breakfast and when I > stepped on the wing walk the right strut hit bottom! It has been low and > yesterday I thought I had pumped it back up. Has anyone used Granville Strut > Seal? I would like to know your results. > Best Regards, > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: newer seats in older Vtails
Date: Jul 04, 2001
Steve: Aviation Research Systems, Inc., Sandy Oregon 503-668-4542 has told me they do such installations. Randy L. Thwing, The other 1948 Straight 35 Subject: Beech-List: newer seats in older Vtails > Has anyone out there done this? If so how did you do it? Does anyone have an > STC or 337 that would help me? Any help would be appreciated > > Thanks > Steve Dortch > 1948 Straight 35 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2000
From: Jon Alston <jalsto(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: newer seats in older Vtails
You might also speak to Gary Hammock at Hammock Aviation in Ennis, Texas. I believe he holds an STC for the installation. Keep us posted. Jon Alston '53 D35 with a bench front seat that is too close for my 6'2" body. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 5:02 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: newer seats in older Vtails > > Steve: > Aviation Research Systems, Inc., Sandy Oregon 503-668-4542 has told me > they do such installations. > Randy L. Thwing, The other 1948 Straight 35 > > > Subject: Beech-List: newer seats in older Vtails > > > Has anyone out there done this? If so how did you do it? Does anyone have > an > > STC or 337 that would help me? Any help would be appreciated > > > > Thanks > > Steve Dortch > > 1948 Straight 35 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GLDFLD(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 05, 2001
Subject: Re: newer seats in older Vtails
Steve: I noticed a reply regarding Aviation Research Systems in Oregon. I would not recommend them, in fact, I have a lawsuit filed against them for work they did on my H35. Let me know if you would like more details. Larry Goldfield N5445D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GLDFLD(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 05, 2001
Subject: Re: newer seats in older Vtails
Randy: I had a terrible experience with Aviation Research Systems, and in fact have a law suit pending against them. If you are considering doing business with them, and would like more information, please let me know. Larry Goldfield N5445D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium
Date: Jul 04, 2001
An old Wing Nut at my airport says that you should only use MEK until your kidneys hurt and then take a break until they stop. I always use chemical gloves to keep it off my hands. Also Thanks for the info on the seats everyone. I will be calling both places tommorrow. I just knew that someone had faced this before. Besides I really like these seats and they match my new upolstery. Blue Skies Steve Dortch Straight 35 1948 ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Bradley <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 1:57 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium > > Randy, > > MEK should work. But, remove the flaps and ailerons. Do the stripping > outdoors, and wear a mask, and goggles. Old clothes are a must too. > > Hope that helps. > > Alan Bradley > A36 N16SF > > > >From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> > >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com > >To: > >Subject: Beech-List: Stripping zinc-chromate from magnesium > >Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 16:38:16 -0700 > > > > > >Listers: > > I am attempting to strip and paint my magnesium skinned flaps and > >ailerons. I have pretty much stripped the paint, but am faced what > >appears to be an old layer of Zinc-Chromate. Regular stripper > >(Staz-wett) doesn't seem to touch it. I have tried rubbing it with a > >Scotchbrite pad, but that just seems to shine the metal around the paint > >patch. Can anyone advise a stripper that will touch this stuff, or > >another method? I'm off to try MEK, then toluene, if I live, I'll check > >for responses. > >Regards, > >Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/10/01
Date: Jul 11, 2001
Hey all, Terry Frymire here, owner of A35, N756B. Wanted to ask a couple questions about the front bench seat. Anyone know how to keep the front bench seat in place? Isn't it supposed to fasten down some how? or is it supposed to just lift in and lift out? Mine has no visible way of fastening into postion. It appears to just lay there, unfortunately it has the propensity to move forward. Thanks, Terry Frymire A35 N756B http://madaket.netwizards.net/vtail/p756b/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/10/01
Date: Jul 11, 2001
There are two bolts that hold the bench in place. They are on the back side of the seat, right below the seat backs. There should be a tab located near the middle of each seat back with a hole for the bolt to go through, the tubing in the bench has two tapped holes for receiving the bolt. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 8:23 PM Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/10/01 > > Hey all, > Terry Frymire here, owner of A35, N756B. Wanted to ask a couple questions > about the front bench seat. Anyone know how to keep the front bench seat in > place? Isn't it supposed to fasten down some how? or is it supposed to > just lift in and lift out? Mine has no visible way of fastening into > postion. It appears to just lay there, unfortunately it has the propensity > to move forward. > > Thanks, > Terry Frymire > A35 N756B > http://madaket.netwizards.net/vtail/p756b/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/10/01
Date: Jul 11, 2001
Terry: My Straight 35 has the steel tube wing spar carry through, so it isn't quite like your A35. My bench seat has two nuts imbedded in the seat frame trailing edge. On the spar carrythrough are two steel tabs through which you put two 1/4" bolts which go throught the fabric at the rear of the seat and thread into the hidden nuts. You sit in the rear seat, push the front seat backs forward, and unscrew the two bolts (rearward) which frees the seat bottom. If your seat has no evidence of holes in the fabric, could they have been upholstered over? You just need small slits in the fabric. You should be able to pull your seat bottom forward, and see some sort of attaching lugs that the trailing edge of the seat bottom should be bolted to. When installing, you have to push pretty hard (rearward) to compress the seat bottom under the seat tops to get it far enough aft for the bolts to reach the nuts, and as you tighten the bolts, the seat gets pulled fully rearward. I could take & send pictures. Good Luck, Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas, NV > > Hey all, > Terry Frymire here, owner of A35, N756B. Wanted to ask a couple questions > about the front bench seat. Anyone know how to keep the front bench seat in > place? Isn't it supposed to fasten down some how? or is it supposed to > just lift in and lift out? Mine has no visible way of fastening into > postion. It appears to just lay there, unfortunately it has the propensity > to move forward. > > Thanks, > Terry Frymire > A35 N756B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2000
From: Jon Alston <jalsto(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/10/01
Be sure to lift the seat belts out of the way including the metal triangles where the belts attach in the center. If tilted forward, you will never get the bench rearward far enough to hit the holes. I know this sounds silly (duh...) but it gave me fits while trying to get the seat reinstalled untill I figured it out. Jon Alston N2191D ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 9:41 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/10/01 > > There are two bolts that hold the bench in place. They are on the back side of > the seat, right below the seat backs. There should be a tab located near the > middle of each seat back with a hole for the bolt to go through, the tubing in > the bench has two tapped holes for receiving the bolt. > > Scott > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Terry Frymire" <tfrymire(at)alltel.net> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 8:23 PM > Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/10/01 > > > > > > Hey all, > > Terry Frymire here, owner of A35, N756B. Wanted to ask a couple questions > > about the front bench seat. Anyone know how to keep the front bench seat in > > place? Isn't it supposed to fasten down some how? or is it supposed to > > just lift in and lift out? Mine has no visible way of fastening into > > postion. It appears to just lay there, unfortunately it has the propensity > > to move forward. > > > > Thanks, > > Terry Frymire > > A35 N756B > > http://madaket.netwizards.net/vtail/p756b/ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: airpath compass
Date: Jul 15, 2001
Dear Listers: I regasketed my compass this weekend, I seem to have the oldest version Airpath, no fluid filler hole on top. It has a hole bored at the twelve o'clock position for a light socket, which is held with a set screw. My socket is damaged, can anyone help me with a replacement socket, mine uses a bulb number 323 which has an integral threaded knob. Can anyone also answer the following: What is the address or phone number of Airpath or it's parent company? What material is "compass fluid"? I have been told this weekend that it is "acid free kerosene", but no one has ever seen it available. Regards, Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SNUSC(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 15, 2001
Subject: Re: airpath compass
In a message dated 7/15/01 10:56:23 PM, n4546v(at)mindspring.com writes: << Dear Listers: I regasketed my compass this weekend, I seem to have the oldest version Airpath, no fluid filler hole on top. It has a hole bored at the twelve o'clock position for a light socket, which is held with a set screw. My socket is damaged, can anyone help me with a replacement socket, mine uses a bulb number 323 which has an integral threaded knob. Can anyone also answer the following: What is the address or phone number of Airpath or it's parent company? What material is "compass fluid"? I have been told this weekend that it is "acid free kerosene", but no one has ever seen it available. Regards, Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 >> Don't know about the socket, but compass fluid is available thru a number of suppliers. Aircraft Spruce has it in the online catalog for 3.00 a half pint. They also have repair kits for airpath compasses, but didn't see anything about a socket. Kim Pratt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: airpath compass
Date: Jul 15, 2001
Dear Kim: I did use the store bought stuff, I am just interested in what it really is. Randy Spruce has it in the online catalog for 3.00 a half pint. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SNUSC(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 16, 2001
Subject: Re: airpath compass
In a message dated 7/15/01 11:41:43 PM, n4546v(at)mindspring.com writes: << Dear Kim: I did use the store bought stuff, I am just interested in what it really is. Randy >> I think it is mineral spirits, at least I have read that somewhere. Some boaters overhaul their compasses with mineral spirits from the hardware store. Kim Pratt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: airpath compass
Date: Jul 15, 2001
Dear Kim: Over the years I have heard: Glycerin, gin, kerosene, baby oil, denatured alchohol, etc. I was hoping someone knew for sure what it is, trying to eliminate legends. Randy > << Dear Kim: > I did use the store bought stuff, I am just interested in what it really > is. > Randy >> > > I think it is mineral spirits, at least I have read that somewhere. Some > boaters overhaul their compasses with mineral spirits from the hardware store. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 16, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: airpath compass]
SNUSC(at)aol.com wrote: In a message dated 7/15/01 11:41:43 PM, n4546v(at)mindspring.com writes: << Dear Kim: I did use the store bought stuff, I am just interested in what it really is. Randy >> I think it is mineral spirits, at least I have read that somewhere. Some boaters overhaul their compasses with mineral spirits from the hardware store. Kim Pratt I overhauled a large compass (WWII vintage) for my boat years ago, was told to use mineral spirits, required a quart and worked fine for many years. Brian Walker D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 16, 2001
Subject: Re: airpath compass
Dear Mr. Thwing, are the the horse thief family that was chased out of England? By the way the Compass is worth more than the plane, Our offer would be equal to the plane but you must promise to keep it. We are only interested in bidding on the compass, but didn't you drill a hole in it ? Too bad as it's value is now worthless, the compass that is, by the way what do you use it for? Surely not to navigate by? Any way we don't have the address to Airpath as they took the wrong turn and invested in buggy whips lost the whole kit and kaboodle. Your friends at Hangar 6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: airpath compass
Date: Jul 16, 2001
This should not have been posted on the list. It would really be nice to save the free bandwidth and respond in this manner privately. Now every Classic Bonanza owner knows of Randy's family history! ----- Original Message ----- From: <BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2001 10:25 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: airpath compass > > Dear Mr. Thwing, are the the horse thief family that was chased out of > England? By the way the Compass is worth more than the plane, Our offer would > be equal to the plane but you must promise to keep it. We are only interested > in bidding on the compass, but didn't you drill a hole in it ? Too bad as > it's value is now worthless, the compass that is, by the way what do you use > it for? Surely not to navigate by? Any way we don't have the address to > Airpath as they took the wrong turn and invested in buggy whips lost the > whole kit and kaboodle. > Your friends at Hangar 6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: airpath compass
Date: Jul 16, 2001
Randy (et.al.) can answer one of the questions.. The fluid is sterilized kerosene. This is necessary because there are microbes that live in and grow in kerosene. A while back, we lost a corporate jet out of Chicago because it had not been serviced or run in over three months, and the fuel filters were not cleaned. The poor guys flamed out and crashed... NTSB/FAA found the filters were almost completely plugged with growth. In your compass, it will manifest itself first in yellowing of the compass rose, and in advanced stages, will restrict the movement of the rose. Milt 5155C D2440 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 7:54 PM Subject: Beech-List: airpath compass > > Dear Listers: > I regasketed my compass this weekend, I seem to have the oldest > version Airpath, no fluid filler hole on top. It has a hole bored at > the twelve o'clock position for a light socket, which is held with a set > screw. My socket is damaged, can anyone help me with a replacement > socket, mine uses a bulb number 323 which has an integral threaded knob. > Can anyone also answer the following: What is the address or phone > number of Airpath or it's parent company? What material is "compass > fluid"? I have been told this weekend that it is "acid free kerosene", > but no one has ever seen it available. > Regards, > Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net>
Subject: Power Tow Owners
Date: Jul 17, 2001
Good morning all, I just bought a Power Tow for my A35. Any precautions I should take or look for when using this item. After I installed the 700-6 brake system on my A35 I can not push it back into the hangar. Too much brake drag. Cleveland said this is normal? Power Tow must love it! Best regards, Bruce Bell Lubbock, Texas A35 N723B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Power Tow Owners
Date: Jul 17, 2001
Bruce, My straight 35 is a bear to push also. It has the Cleveland's which seem to be on when youfirst start to push then release once its going. Even then I call it a lead sled. Pulling or pushing single handed is good exercise! I just bought into a part ownership in an electric tow bar. I don't remember the manufacturer, it has a long rectangular battery in the handle. It clips onto the tow pins and drives the front plane tire with a large V shaped rubber pulley. Its a friction drive so any water puts it out of business. It's loud but works great. In order to get my plane in the hanger I have to roll over the door guide rails one at a time or the drive just slips on the wheel. A C210 owner has a gas powered job which is faster and has 10 times the power. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 7:39 AM Subject: Beech-List: Power Tow Owners > > Good morning all, > I just bought a Power Tow for my A35. Any precautions I should take or look > for when using this item. After I installed the 700-6 brake system on my A35 > I can not push it back into the hangar. Too much brake drag. Cleveland said > this is normal? Power Tow must love it! > Best regards, > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > A35 N723B > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: E225 Generator Rebuild
Date: Jul 17, 2001
I just finished rebuilding the 35 amp generator on my E225. It quit last week over Las Vegas so I switched off all electrical and came on home to NM. I was invisioning another whopping bill. What a suprise to find that this generator was used in 1960 ford tractors. Feild coils, bearings and seals are available locally. Cost $55 for all the parts. Only expensive aviation item as a new Zeftronics regulator for $130. Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 17, 2001
From: Avi Elbachri <avi007(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Power Tow Owners
Hi look for a spacer strip on the caliper Avi Bruce Bell wrote: > > Good morning all, > I just bought a Power Tow for my A35. Any precautions I should take or look > for when using this item. After I installed the 700-6 brake system on my A35 > I can not push it back into the hangar. Too much brake drag. Cleveland said > this is normal? Power Tow must love it! > Best regards, > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > A35 N723B > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Power Tow Owners
Date: Jul 17, 2001
What he is telling you that there isn't enough clearance to retract fully with new puck and old calipers. You can make the shim your self. NOW if the pucks are worn and you are still having the problem, then the o-ring could be bad or the caliper is sticking on the guide pins. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Avi Elbachri" <avi007(at)home.com> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:00 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Power Tow Owners Hi look for a spacer strip on the caliper Avi Bruce Bell wrote: > > Good morning all, > I just bought a Power Tow for my A35. Any precautions I should take or look > for when using this item. After I installed the 700-6 brake system on my A35 > I can not push it back into the hangar. Too much brake drag. Cleveland said > this is normal? Power Tow must love it! > Best regards, > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > A35 N723B > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net>
Subject: 199-49 Cleveland Brakes
Date: Jul 17, 2001
Hi All, I just got off the line with Customer Service about spacers for the 199-49 brake. They said there are no spacers approved for the 199-49 brake. They were aware of spacers being used on the 199-49, in the field, but they make none for the 199-49 brake. They have some for other model brakes but are for heat dissipation mostly and clearance a little. Since mine are brand new he said a little wear will free them up some. So who uses a Power Tow? Bruce Bell Lubbock, Texas A35 N723B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 17, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: 199-49 Cleveland Brakes
Bruce, There are some spacers (shims) for the Cleveland 199-50 (6.50 x 8 wheels), and I would suspect that you ought to be able to make up a set for the 199-49 (7.00 x 6 wheel) if you needed to. Either that, or just wait a while for some of the brake pad to wear down. The Cleveland design has the brake pad rubbing against the disc all the time, so there is a noticeable increase in the drag. No spring return to pull the brake pads off the disc like we have in cars nowadays. The price we have to pay for brakes that work. I *am* the Powertow for my plane. Beech towbar and me. I once stupidly pushed/pulled the Bonanza for about 100 ft. from the self-serve fuel pumps to a visitor tiedown spot. Felt like I left the parking brake on the whole way. Never again. I don't care if it is 2:00am. I'll fire up the plane and taxi it over there rather than risk a heart attack. There *is* a guy out of South Africa that built a hand crank version of the Powertow called the WingWalker, sort of like a bicycle sprocket and chain setup. It is a friction-style tow device, working off the front wheel. The big plus is you can toss it in the baggage compartment -- and use it at your destination. Price was still around $400.00. I'd consider it if it came with the cutie on their website. :-) http://www.wingwalker.co.za/ Ron Davis Bruce Bell wrote: > > > Hi All, > I just got off the line with Customer Service about spacers for the 199-49 > brake. They said there are no spacers approved for the 199-49 brake. They > were aware of spacers being used on the 199-49, in the field, but they make > none for the 199-49 brake. They have some for other model brakes but are for > heat dissipation mostly and clearance a little. Since mine are brand new he > said a little wear will free them up some. So who uses a Power Tow? > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > A35 N723B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 17, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Cylinder casting numbers ...
Here's a good question for the group: A couple of weekends ago, I was helping a friend change out an E-engine cylinder on his Bonanza, and noticed that he was combining both the "old style" cylinder with the "new style" cylinder on the same engine. Perfectly acceptable. But I was wondering if there was going to be any perceptible change in the cooling or performance characteristics as he is mixing-n-matching the cylinders here. He doesn't have a GEM or JPI, so we couldn't tell. I've been on him for over a year to get one, and he probably will when its time for the major overhaul, which is rapidly approaching. As an aside, I came upon an E-engine cylinder casting number that I couldn't identify. Cylinders have an identifying casting number, or lot number (or whatever it is) on the upper side of the cylinder. It is part of the casting, not an engraving. Normally the number is something like: 532462 which denotes the "old" style casting 536727 whish denotes the "new" casting, and is referred to as the "727" cylinder. The easy way to distinguish between the two are that the fins are slightly different just to the left of the upper plug. Well, I saw an E-engine cylinder with the casting number of: CA649890 It has almost the exact same look as the 536727 cylinder, but maybe with more material wrapping around the upper spark plug. Fin design seems the same as the '727. Anyone know what this is? Ron Davis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: E225 Generator Rebuild
Date: Jul 17, 2001
General note to all.. I have a 50A generator removed when I installed the Jasco alternator. If anyone needs one, $20 plus shipping will get it.. Milt N5155C D2440 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 7:15 AM Subject: Beech-List: E225 Generator Rebuild > > I just finished rebuilding the 35 amp generator on my E225. It quit last week > over Las Vegas so I switched off all electrical and came on home to NM. > > I was invisioning another whopping bill. What a suprise to find that this > generator was used in 1960 ford tractors. Feild coils, bearings and seals are > available locally. > > Cost $55 for all the parts. > > Only expensive aviation item as a new Zeftronics regulator for $130. > > Scott > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BG Wells" <wellsbg(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: E225 Generator Rebuild
Date: Jul 17, 2001
I would like to have it. BG Wells ----- Original Message ----- From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 9:15 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: E225 Generator Rebuild > > General note to all.. I have a 50A generator removed when I installed the > Jasco alternator. If anyone needs one, $20 plus shipping will get it.. > Milt N5155C D2440 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 7:15 AM > Subject: Beech-List: E225 Generator Rebuild > > > > > > I just finished rebuilding the 35 amp generator on my E225. It quit last > week > > over Las Vegas so I switched off all electrical and came on home to NM. > > > > I was invisioning another whopping bill. What a suprise to find that > this > > generator was used in 1960 ford tractors. Feild coils, bearings and > seals are > > available locally. > > > > Cost $55 for all the parts. > > > > Only expensive aviation item as a new Zeftronics regulator for $130. > > > > Scott > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: 50A generator
Date: Jul 18, 2001
Hey guys, didn't know this thing was that valuable!! But it's gone to the first answerer.. Al's got it now.. Regards, Milt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 18, 2001
From: Lorne Schmitz <central.elec(at)sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: E225 Generator Rebuild
Milton J wrote: > > General note to all.. I have a 50A generator removed when I installed the > Jasco alternator. If anyone needs one, $20 plus shipping will get it.. > Milt N5155C D2440 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 7:15 AM > Subject: Beech-List: E225 Generator Rebuild > > > > > I just finished rebuilding the 35 amp generator on my E225. It quit last > week > > over Las Vegas so I switched off all electrical and came on home to NM. > > > > I was invisioning another whopping bill. What a suprise to find that > this > > generator was used in 1960 ford tractors. Feild coils, bearings and > seals are > > available locally. > > > > Cost $55 for all the parts. > > > > Only expensive aviation item as a new Zeftronics regulator for $130. > > > > Scott > > > > > Hi, I would be interested in your 50 amp generator if you still have it. I would take it and send you a money order for it. Lorne central.elec(at)sk.sympatico.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Door hinges and windowz
Hello. Planning to redo the cabin door hinges and pilot/co:pilot windows on my straight 35. Suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated ranging from which windows are the best to select to any door hinge replacement techniques that you may have found effective. Thanx in advance. Pete Scott aka Bonanzaman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz
Date: Jul 27, 2001
Can't comment on the hinges, but make sure you read and follow the instructions that are supplied with the windows. I've seen some various ways of drilling the new holes, including using a dremel tool, but I say the original instructions are the best. Absolutely use the suggested (correct) drill bits. The holes are generally where a crack will begin within a few years if not done properly. The BDS instructions are probably the best. Don't forget about marking the little brackets for the trim. Good luck. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 11:37 PM Subject: Beech-List: Door hinges and windowz > > Hello. > > Planning to redo the cabin door hinges and pilot/co:pilot windows on my > straight 35. > > Suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated ranging from which > windows are the best to select to any door hinge replacement techniques > that you may have found effective. > > Thanx in advance. > > Pete Scott aka Bonanzaman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz
Date: Jul 27, 2001
When I needed new door hinges on a 35 I took the old ones (which were broken in half to a machine shop with a scanning computer milling machine and they made a perfect (stronger than original) set for about $150.00. They were exactly the same and cost about 1 tenth what Beech wants for a set. -----Original Message----- From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net> Date: Friday, July 27, 2001 12:41 AM Subject: Beech-List: Door hinges and windowz > >Hello. > >Planning to redo the cabin door hinges and pilot/co:pilot windows on my >straight 35. > >Suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated ranging from which >windows are the best to select to any door hinge replacement techniques >that you may have found effective. > >Thanx in advance. > >Pete Scott aka Bonanzaman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz
Date: Jul 27, 2001
Pete: I replaced all seven pieces in my Straight 35 two years ago using LP windows. I replaced original with original. It is a long but not hard job. The toughest part was cleaning the 50 year old black sealant from the fuselage frame after the window frames were removed, only MEK would touch it, masks, gloves and ventilation here! If you are replacing with orginal configuration, NO drilling of glass is required. It is too detailed a job to generally respond to, so please ask specific questions as you go along. First question: Are you going to replace glass with original configuation, or with new fancy shapes and thicknesses, i.e. 3/8" thick "speedslope" windscreen, or pilot side side windows with frameless vents? If you are using orginal configuration, I would be happy to relate my clumsy but succesful experience. I bought all seven pieces of glass in smokey grey color for about $1100.00 including UPS. I faxed about 5 venders supplied by LP plastics and received a wide range of quotes, it pays to shop. Straight 35 has seven pieces, i.e. no third windows. Regards, Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 9:37 PM Subject: Beech-List: Door hinges and windowz > > Hello. > > Planning to redo the cabin door hinges and pilot/co:pilot windows on my > straight 35. > > Suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated ranging from which > windows are the best to select to any door hinge replacement techniques > that you may have found effective. > > Thanx in advance. > > Pete Scott aka Bonanzaman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2001
From: Jon Alston <jalsto(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz
I would be intersested to hear how this turns out. I will be needing to do the same sometime soon as my D35's windows are fogged. I sent Pete a copy of Ron Davis' annual inspection doc that has great instructions for reworking the door hinges. Jon Alston N2191D RBD ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 10:30 AM Subject: Re: Beech-List: Door hinges and windowz > > Pete: > I replaced all seven pieces in my Straight 35 two years ago using LP > windows. I replaced original with original. It is a long but not hard job. > The toughest part was cleaning the 50 year old black sealant from the > fuselage frame after the window frames were removed, only MEK would touch > it, masks, gloves and ventilation here! If you are replacing with orginal > configuration, NO drilling of glass is required. It is too detailed a job > to generally respond to, so please ask specific questions as you go along. > First question: Are you going to replace glass with original configuation, > or with new fancy shapes and thicknesses, i.e. 3/8" thick "speedslope" > windscreen, or pilot side side windows with frameless vents? > If you are using orginal configuration, I would be happy to relate my clumsy > but succesful experience. I bought all seven pieces of glass in smokey grey > color for about $1100.00 including UPS. I faxed about 5 venders supplied by > LP plastics and received a wide range of quotes, it pays to shop. Straight > 35 has seven pieces, i.e. no third windows. > Regards, > Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 9:37 PM > Subject: Beech-List: Door hinges and windowz > > > > > > Hello. > > > > Planning to redo the cabin door hinges and pilot/co:pilot windows on my > > straight 35. > > > > Suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated ranging from which > > windows are the best to select to any door hinge replacement techniques > > that you may have found effective. > > > > Thanx in advance. > > > > Pete Scott aka Bonanzaman > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz
The door hinges are easy, compared to the windows. I have the -brief- instructions that come with Cee Bailey's window installation instructions, and you-all are welcome to them. Just email me for a PDF copy. In a nutshell, you break out the old one, pull out the pieces, painstakingly label each and every clip and fitting as they are *not* intergchangable, pull the bits out, and clean everything up. Push the new window into place from the inside (use your stocking feet), and warm days are better than cool ones -- more flexibility. Finally, don't be stingy with sealant, or you will eventually battle soggy radios. Ron Davis Jon Alston wrote: > > > I would be intersested to hear how this turns out. > I will be needing to do the same sometime soon as my D35's windows are > fogged. > I sent Pete a copy of Ron Davis' annual inspection doc that has great > instructions for reworking the door hinges. > Jon Alston > N2191D > RBD > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: VOR antenna troubles ...
Stupid me. I thought I was deftly repairing a drooping VOR whisker antenna. For about the last year, the right-side VOR "whisker" antenna underneath the tailcone had been drooping. It was actually loose in its fitting. I could twirl it all the way 'round. So, one day, I pulled it out of the fitting and discovered it is supposed to be held in place by a tiny 4-40 machine screw. It was sheared in two. I undid the lower tailcone plate held in place by about a dozen screws, and found the other half of the screw and the antenna cable. Holey smokes! There was about 1/8" of crud on everything in there -- 45 years of grime. I checked the antenna cable. It was a single wire coming aft from the radios, splitting into a "Y", and each end terminated to a tiny eye terminal, small enough for that 4-40 screw. There was one eye for the left and right side of the whisker antennas. I noticed that there was a grounding stub on one of the screws, but there was nothing attached to it. Considering the grime, there didn't seem to ever be one. There didn't appear to be a shield around the cable to attach to the grounding stub. I cleaned everything up, and reinstalled the whisker antenna with a new screw, and buttoned up the tailcone plate again. The whisker was finally firmly in place. Now, both NAV radios only have a range of about 10 miles. I suspect that I either inexpertly re-attached the antenna, or, more possibly, broke something when I removed the grime. I opened it back up and confirmed that the connections were good. A volt/ohm meter said that the path from the antenna wire is okay, more or less. Besides putting the grime back in, or handing a fat envelope of money over to Western Avionics, anyone have any ideas? Ron Davis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: VOR antenna troubles ...
Date: Jul 27, 2001
Ron; The "loop" is actually a balun. There is no ground to the antenna. The core is connected on one whisker and the shield is connected to the other whisker. Where the wire loop comes together, there should be a coil of wire. That wire is soldered together and grounded. If it's too frustrating, replacing the antenna with a Comant or similar brand will allow you to eliminate the balun and connect it up via a BNC connector. The balun is built internally. Look in the AC 43-13(?) you know, the standards, and it'll show you a good picture in the radio/antenna section. Email me if I can be any more confusing to you. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 1:49 PM Subject: Beech-List: VOR antenna troubles ... > > Stupid me. I thought I was deftly repairing a drooping VOR whisker antenna. > > For about the last year, the right-side VOR "whisker" antenna underneath the > tailcone had been drooping. It was actually loose in its fitting. I could > twirl it all the way 'round. > > So, one day, I pulled it out of the fitting and discovered it is supposed to > be held in place by a tiny 4-40 machine screw. It was sheared in two. I > undid the lower tailcone plate held in place by about a dozen screws, and > found the other half of the screw and the antenna cable. > > Holey smokes! There was about 1/8" of crud on everything in there -- 45 years > of grime. > > I checked the antenna cable. It was a single wire coming aft from the radios, > splitting into a "Y", and each end terminated to a tiny eye terminal, small > enough for that 4-40 screw. There was one eye for the left and right side of > the whisker antennas. > > I noticed that there was a grounding stub on one of the screws, but there was > nothing attached to it. Considering the grime, there didn't seem to ever be > one. There didn't appear to be a shield around the cable to attach to the > grounding stub. > > I cleaned everything up, and reinstalled the whisker antenna with a new screw, > and buttoned up the tailcone plate again. The whisker was finally firmly in > place. > > Now, both NAV radios only have a range of about 10 miles. > > I suspect that I either inexpertly re-attached the antenna, or, more possibly, > broke something when I removed the grime. I opened it back up and confirmed > that the connections were good. A volt/ohm meter said that the path from the > antenna wire is okay, more or less. > > Besides putting the grime back in, or handing a fat envelope of money over to > Western Avionics, anyone have any ideas? > > Ron Davis > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz
Date: Jul 27, 2001
Jon: Could you forward me a copy of the inspection doc, I would be glad to have it. Regards, Randy L. Thwing, 48 Straight 35 Subject: Re: Beech-List: Door hinges and windowz > > I would be intersested to hear how this turns out. > I will be needing to do the same sometime soon as my D35's windows are > fogged. > I sent Pete a copy of Ron Davis' annual inspection doc that has great > instructions for reworking the door hinges. > Jon Alston > N2191D > RBD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz
Thanks for the input although I am illiterate as to who Cee Bailey is or, in fact, what PDF stands for.. please enlighten me via Email or fax @ 530-878-9145. I may be old but I'm not smart.. I just hope my new windows won't leak. Pete AKA Bonanzaman Ron Davis wrote: > > The door hinges are easy, compared to the windows. > > I have the -brief- instructions that come with Cee Bailey's window > installation instructions, and you-all are welcome to them. Just email me for > a PDF copy. > > In a nutshell, you break out the old one, pull out the pieces, painstakingly > label each and every clip and fitting as they are *not* intergchangable, pull > the bits out, and clean everything up. Push the new window into place from > the inside (use your stocking feet), and warm days are better than cool ones > -- more flexibility. > > Finally, don't be stingy with sealant, or you will eventually battle soggy > radios. > > Ron Davis > > Jon Alston wrote: > > > > > > I would be intersested to hear how this turns out. > > I will be needing to do the same sometime soon as my D35's windows are > > fogged. > > I sent Pete a copy of Ron Davis' annual inspection doc that has great > > instructions for reworking the door hinges. > > Jon Alston > > N2191D > > RBD > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
"Beech List"
Subject: Something of Interest
Date: Aug 03, 2001
I received this note of interest from my A.I. this morning. Sounds like things will get rough. Al You can paste this inside your logbook..... PROPOSED FEDERAL AVIATION REGULATION ACT 1000.A No pilot or pilots, or person or persons acting on the direction or suggestion or supervision of the pilot or pilots may try, or attempt to try or make or make attempt to try to comprehend or understand any or all, in whole or in part of the herein mentioned Federal Aviation Regulations, except as authorized by the Administrator or an agent appointed by, or inspected by the Administrator. 1000.B If the pilot, or group of associated pilots becomes aware of, or realizes, or detects, or discovers or finds that he, or she, or they, are or have been beginning to understand the Federal Aviation Regulations, they must immediately, within three (3) days notify, in writing, the Administrator. 1000.C Upon receipt of the above mentioned notice of impending comprehension, the Administrator will immediately rewrite the Federal Aviation regulations in such a manner as to eliminate any further comprehension hazards. 1000.D The Administrator may, at his or her option, require the offending pilot, or pilots, to attend remedial instruction in Federal Aviation Regulations until such time that the pilot is too confused to be capable of understanding anything. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Half panel modification
Hi Walt, I seem to have the panel you describe; it was done prior to my acquisition so, other than the customary log book entry, I have no further information except that it makes for a more updated panel; no more looking for radios and instruments in the glove compartment or under the seat. The addition of new instruments, attendant wiring, circuit breakers, etc. is a real benefit and provides a more modern perspective her a new life. I have a straight 35 so the installation involved moving the battery box back to the front of the firewall in order to accommodate radios and such. Walt Cannon wrote: > > I am looking for some information on the "half panel" type of modifications > for an early Bonanza. The kind where everything below the piano keys stays > the same, but the panel layout can be updated and the radios stacked in the > right center. > > Specifically: > > 1) Does anyone know of any articles or web sites that may address this > modification in detail? > 2) Has it typically been done on a 337 form? > 3) Anybody have a copy that they would be willing to share? > 4) What of the original installation has to be cut away? Does the metal > under the glare shield have to be altered? > 5) Does anybody have one of these modifications that has been done by > Hammock Aviation? If so, are you happy with the result? > > Feel free to contact me of the list if you have additional information or > something like pictures, etc. > > Thanks, > > Walt Cannon > Seattle > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Half panel modification
Date: Aug 05, 2001
Walt, I have straight 35 with a modified panel. It was done using a field approved 337. I have the logbook entry, 337 form and blueprint for panel. I don't have the wiring diagram. The battery box remained behind the firewall. It was done years before I purchased the plane. Somewhere I have a picture, I'll try to find it. Scott > Walt Cannon wrote: > > > > > I am looking for some information on the "half panel" type of modifications > > for an early Bonanza. The kind where everything below the piano keys stays > > the same, but the panel layout can be updated and the radios stacked in the > > right center. > > > > Specifically: > > > > 1) Does anyone know of any articles or web sites that may address this > > modification in detail? > > 2) Has it typically been done on a 337 form? > > 3) Anybody have a copy that they would be willing to share? > > 4) What of the original installation has to be cut away? Does the metal > > under the glare shield have to be altered? > > 5) Does anybody have one of these modifications that has been done by > > Hammock Aviation? If so, are you happy with the result? > > > > Feel free to contact me of the list if you have additional information or > > something like pictures, etc. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Walt Cannon > > Seattle > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Door hinges and windowz]
Peter Scott wrote: Hello. Planning to redo the cabin door hinges and pilot/co:pilot windows on my straight 35. Suggestions and input would be greatly appreciated ranging from which windows are the best to select to any door hinge replacement techniques that you may have found effective. Thanx in advance. Pete Scott aka Bonanzaman Pete, Replaced all my side glass last spring, Great Lakes Aero products recommended 100% silicone caulking, which I bought at Home Depot (well, it's either 100% or not!). Worked well, no leaks. They suggest ligher fluid (as in Zippo) to clean-off stray caulking. It works well, and I have since used it on a couple of very persistent bugs. I trimmed edges, where needed to fit, with a palm sander and 120 grit paper. Slow, but safer (to me) than a saw blade. I cracked one back passenger window while cutting notch for hinge spacer (using coping saw). Make sure to use a very fine blade (I did, on the second one!). I stop-drilled crack and am living with it. Good Luck, you'll think you're in the wrong airplane when finished, it's really worth the cost and hassle, Brian Walker D35 D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Flap motor problem
Date: Sep 02, 2001
Boy! am really glad to see this up and running again... Am doing the annual dissassembly/reassembly, and have found that I haven't re-packed the flap motor gear box since I installed the safety bushings on the drive cables. Man! what a job! Has anyone drilled the upper face of the spar to get access to the forward two screws of the gearbox cover plate? I'm tempted to do this, and remove the cover plate without removing the motor from the airplane. However, this would not allow me to clean out any old gear grease, so I'm dragging my feet on this one. regards, Milt B35 D2440 AUN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Flap motor problem]
"Milton J" wrote: Boy! am really glad to see this up and running again... Am doing the annual dissassembly/reassembly, and have found that I haven't re-packed the flap motor gear box since I installed the safety bushings on the drive cables. Man! what a job! Has anyone drilled the upper face of the spar to get access to the forward two screws of the gearbox cover plate? I'm tempted to do this, and remove the cover plate without removing the motor from the airplane. However, this would not allow me to clean out any old gear grease, so I'm dragging my feet on this one. regards, Milt B35 D2440 AUN Hello Milt, I too have really missed this list! I just finished my annual and found that the spar cover had already been drilled (1/4" holes). The thought of safety wiring the screws was intimidating, but I found the safety wire to be the trick in getting those screws in place. I applyed wire and twisted it an inch or so , then slid the screws under the cover, holding them with wire. I tightened (let the wire spin around with the screw). After the screws were tight, I completed the twist and ran wire through the aft screws. I had to do one of the front screws twice to get the correct angle on the wire. Does anybody out there have a Beech 215 prop manual I can get a copy of? I'd be pleased to pay for one! Brian Walker D-35 D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: Flap motor problem]
Date: Sep 02, 2001
Thanks, Brian.. I figured someone had done it already, just seemed too logical. I took the motor out anyway, refinished it and lubed the flex flap shafts real good. Milt B35 D2440 AUN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject:
Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I am showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. Thanks, Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Hi Brian. My understanding is that you should get about 29" @ sea level, taking into account a little loss for the engine's efficiency.. and lose about an inch of MP per 1000' of altitude increase at standard temp. This would mean that you should read about 20" mp on a standard day @ 9,000'; If you are getting 22", it is pretty cold where you are or your guage is off. I'm sure that the engineer types will set me straight on my shade tree opinions, but I wouldn't count on 22" of MP on takeoff at an airport elevation of 9,000 unless it was pretty cool and my engine was in excellent shape. Pete Scott D 1221 Brian Walker wrote: > > Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're > getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I am > showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. > Thanks, > Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) > D-3596 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "carmine pecoraro" <aeroauto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Date: Sep 07, 2001
Figure on losing 1 inch of manifold pressure per 1,000 ft. of altitude. cheers carmine pecoraro >From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Beech-List: >Date: 6 Sep 2001 20:19:16 MDT > > >Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're >getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I >am >showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. >Thanks, >Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) >D-3596 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2001
Subject: Beech Party 2001
From: Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com>
Hi all, Just wondering how many folks on this list are considering going to Beech Party 2001 - The Staggerwing and Beech 18 convention at Tullahoma, TN in October? -- Shelby Smith 68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 Located at EAA Chapter 162 Sport Aviation Complex ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Date: Sep 07, 2001
Brian, Pete and Carmine's numbers are what I see, on my IO-470C, and IO-520BB. So I'd do a ground check of your MP guage. I'd bet it is reading high. HTH Alan Bradley >From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Beech-List: >Date: 6 Sep 2001 20:19:16 MDT > > >Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're >getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I >am >showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. >Thanks, >Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) >D-3596 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beech Party 2001
Date: Sep 07, 2001
With any luck, I'll be there, at least for a day. Alan Bradley >From: Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Beech-List: Beech Party 2001 >Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 06:40:35 -0500 > > >Hi all, > >Just wondering how many folks on this list are considering going to Beech >Party 2001 - The Staggerwing and Beech 18 convention at Tullahoma, TN in >October? > > >-- >Shelby Smith >68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 >Located at EAA Chapter 162 >Sport Aviation Complex > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: hawk172(at)webtv.net.ETAtAhUAgBDoEcbuJ5dKtVYnQtAy7OqWrDgCFAEQVrPQEmlTQHV2MtkDNYkOwcOO
Date: Sep 07, 2001
Subject: BechSundowner:
Has anyone got a comment on the Beech Sundowner-both pro and con please. Thanks--RJ-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List / Performance @ 9000 ft
Brian, What ! I will see 19-1/2" to 20" MP at 9000-9500 ft. Temps up there are usually 50-60 degrees here in So. Calif., and running around 2300 rpm I'll see 135 kts. or so. Of course, I've got the throttle back about 3/4" from Wide Open Throttle to even out the EGTs, and I usually have it so leaned out it coughs, but its nice to see gas consumption around 8.5-9 gph. Shoving in the throttle to WOT, I will see only 1/4" to 1/2" increase in Manifold Pressure. The increase in EGT differences jump from 40-50 to over 100, and the True Airspeed goes up only a couple of knots. Shoving the mixture in to almost full rich will buy me another couple of knots, but consumption will jump at least another 1 gph. (Fuel estimates are guesses based on a bit of noodling with pencil and paper, and the refill receipt at the pumps, not an incredibly expensive fuel flow instrument). I've been toying with the idea that the Brackett air filter may be robbing me of a bit of manifold pressure, and I'll have to take it off one day and see if there's any difference. Somehow I don't think I'll see any. Some old wives tales say that you get back up 1/2" to 1-1/2" in MP, depending on who you believe. Funny (or maybe not), but putting it on autopilot will usually buy me an *additional* 1-2 kts. I guess its a better pilot than I am, or my plane is slightly out of rig. :-( Ron Davis 1954 E35 E225-8 & PS5-C carb Brian Walker wrote: > > > Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're > getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I am > showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. > Thanks, > Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) > D-3596 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2001
From: Thomas Cook <adtouch(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
TO ALL ON LIST, Does anyone out there have any extra plastic fairleads for the ruddervator cables? I am re-assembling a C-35 and need 6 or 7 of them. Thanks, Thom Cook N59TC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8TRQA(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 07, 2001
Subject: Sundowner Con
The Sundowner is prone to corrosion on the wing spar. It's not to bad of an aircraft besides that. Be careful of illegal spar splices. Beech has an stc kit for this vary thing. If you have a spar splice and no paperwork (stc and log entry), I would advise against the purchase of that aircraft. av8trqa(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2001
From: Avi Elbachri <avi007(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
I have some fairleads call 415-740-5369 Avi Thomas Cook wrote: > > TO ALL ON LIST, > Does anyone out there have any extra plastic fairleads for the > ruddervator cables? I am re-assembling a C-35 and need 6 or 7 of them. > Thanks, > Thom Cook > N59TC > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David J. Spencer" <djohnspe(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Sundowner Con
Date: Sep 07, 2001
Proper maintenance and an A&P who knows the difference between normal light and "rot" will prevent this from happening. It's not an STC, but an 8130 for the parts with accompanying 337 and 8110.3 from a DER may be necessary.... I just put one in my Super III so I know... David J. Spencer Beech A23-24 djs(at)Group54.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <AV8TRQA(at)aol.com> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 11:06 AM Subject: Beech-List: Sundowner Con > > The Sundowner is prone to corrosion on the wing spar. It's not to bad of an > aircraft besides that. Be careful of illegal spar splices. Beech has an stc > kit for this vary thing. If you have a spar splice and no paperwork (stc and > log entry), I would advise against the purchase of that aircraft. > av8trqa(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2001
From: Brian Walker <walkmet(at)usa.net>
Subject:
Thanks to everybody with comments on manifold pressure. What really prompted my question is the results from a recent compression check on my recently (65 hrs ago) overhauled engine, I had four cylinders register very low (40# +/-) and two in the 70s. Upon reading several informative articles on ABS CD, I slept better knowing that several experts feel that I may not really have a problem after-all. I recently completed a 2,000 mile (12.5 hr) flight and used 1 1/2 qts of oil. The engine runs great, sounds great, and seems strong. The plugs have always looked perfect when removed, and I've never fouled one. I think the 22" @ 9,000' is pretty accurate in that I registered 29" at sea-level. At least one friend (?) insists I need a top overhaul. What do you guys think? (boy, that ought to open the flood gates!!). Thanks, Brian Walker D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David J. Spencer" <djohnspe(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: BechSundowner:
Date: Sep 07, 2001
I've never flown one, but understand that they are very nice... at least that's what most people think. My sources tell me they are a little nose heavy and harder to land than a Cezzna, but so is my Super III. They also seem to have a side-draft carbonator system that may cause some starting problems. Again, I don't really know. If you really want to get "honest and reliable" information regarding these planes I would suggest that you join the musketeermail Musketeer Mailing List at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/musketeermail If you pose your question on this list, I'll guarantee that you will get a very detailed analysis of the plane. David J. Spencer Beech A23-24 SuperIII djs(at)Group54.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 10:04 AM Subject: Beech-List: BechSundowner: ETAtAhUAgBDoEcbuJ5dKtVYnQtAy7OqWrDgCFAEQVrPQEmlTQHV2MtkDNYkOwcOO > > Has anyone got a comment on the Beech Sundowner-both pro and con please. > Thanks--RJ-- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2001
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Brian, 40 lbs is low, but it may be acceptable with the wierd way Continental does their compression tests. 1-1/2 qts of oil per 12 hours seems right -- with 4-ring pistons, or long continuous duty. It seems I never used oil when the plane was on long cross countries. My thoughts are ... no, you don't need a top overhaul right now. But keep an eye on it. I think I would want to see some more damning evidence before tossing $1,500.00 around to replace a cylinder. Ron Davis Brian Walker wrote: > > > Thanks to everybody with comments on manifold pressure. What really > prompted my question is the results from a recent compression check on my > recently (65 hrs ago) overhauled engine, I had four cylinders register > very low (40# +/-) and two in the 70s. Upon reading several informative > articles on ABS CD, I slept better knowing that several experts feel that > I may not really have a problem after-all. I recently completed a 2,000 > mile (12.5 hr) flight and used 1 1/2 qts of oil. The engine runs great, > sounds great, and seems strong. The plugs have always looked perfect when > removed, and I've never fouled one. I think the 22" @ 9,000' is pretty > accurate in that I registered 29" at sea-level. At least one friend (?) > insists I need a top overhaul. What do you guys think? > (boy, that ought to open the flood gates!!). > Thanks, > Brian Walker > D-3596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Derrick" <sderrick(at)tnstaafl.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List / Performance @ 9000 ft
Date: Sep 07, 2001
I was going to say I see in the 19 to 20" range at 9,000 ft but couldn't remember for sure. I know I don't see 22"! Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Davis Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 8:57 AM Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List / Performance @ 9000 ft Brian, What ! I will see 19-1/2" to 20" MP at 9000-9500 ft. Temps up there are usually 50-60 degrees here in So. Calif., and running around 2300 rpm I'll see 135 kts. or so. Of course, I've got the throttle back about 3/4" from Wide Open Throttle to even out the EGTs, and I usually have it so leaned out it coughs, but its nice to see gas consumption around 8.5-9 gph. Shoving in the throttle to WOT, I will see only 1/4" to 1/2" increase in Manifold Pressure. The increase in EGT differences jump from 40-50 to over 100, and the True Airspeed goes up only a couple of knots. Shoving the mixture in to almost full rich will buy me another couple of knots, but consumption will jump at least another 1 gph. (Fuel estimates are guesses based on a bit of noodling with pencil and paper, and the refill receipt at the pumps, not an incredibly expensive fuel flow instrument). I've been toying with the idea that the Brackett air filter may be robbing me of a bit of manifold pressure, and I'll have to take it off one day and see if there's any difference. Somehow I don't think I'll see any. Some old wives tales say that you get back up 1/2" to 1-1/2" in MP, depending on who you believe. Funny (or maybe not), but putting it on autopilot will usually buy me an *additional* 1-2 kts. I guess its a better pilot than I am, or my plane is slightly out of rig. :-( Ron Davis 1954 E35 E225-8 & PS5-C carb Brian Walker wrote: > > > Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're > getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I am > showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. > Thanks, > Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) > D-3596 > = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Date: Sep 07, 2001
If you mean the trim tabs, there are only 4 and they're a bit costly, so shop them if you have to buy new. I could use 2 myself! Good luck Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Cook" <adtouch(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 1:40 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: > > TO ALL ON LIST, > Does anyone out there have any extra plastic fairleads for the > ruddervator cables? I am re-assembling a C-35 and need 6 or 7 of them. > Thanks, > Thom Cook > N59TC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List:
Howdy Thom You couldn't use more than 4 and you mite get them from AVSTAT.. I just bought one: Part # 35-660033.. Price is around $30.00 each. 1-818-780-6032 Pete 4579V A J DeMarzo wrote: > > If you mean the trim tabs, there are only 4 and they're a bit costly, so > shop them if you have to buy new. I could use 2 myself! > Good luck > Al > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Thomas Cook" <adtouch(at)bellsouth.net> > To: > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 1:40 PM > Subject: Re: Beech-List: > > > > > TO ALL ON LIST, > > Does anyone out there have any extra plastic fairleads for the > > ruddervator cables? I am re-assembling a C-35 and need 6 or 7 of them. > > Thanks, > > Thom Cook > > N59TC > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Flybolt" <flybolt(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: BechSundowner:
Date: Sep 08, 2001
I have owned a 78 Sundowner for eight Years. It is a workhorse and a Joy to fly. 947 useful with two doors and a baggage compartment. 10Gal/hr 110Kts ...flybolt(at)earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 8:04 AM Subject: Beech-List: BechSundowner: ETAtAhUAgBDoEcbuJ5dKtVYnQtAy7OqWrDgCFAEQVrPQEmlTQHV2MtkDNYkOwcOO > > Has anyone got a comment on the Beech Sundowner-both pro and con please. > Thanks--RJ-- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2001
Subject: Brandon Pictures
From: Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com>
Hello Everyone, Our website now has a Photos section. I uploaded pictures from yesterday's event. Morning weather probably prevented a lot of folks from making it. I did meet a new Sierra owner from Dyresburg, TN. Hopefully he will be able to join us at Tullahoma. -- Shelby Smith 68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 Located at EAA Chapter 162 Sport Aviation Complex ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2001
Subject: Brandon Pictures
From: Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com>
Hello Everyone, Our website now has a Photos section. I uploaded pictures from yesterday's event. Morning weather probably prevented a lot of folks from making it. I did meet a new Sierra owner from Dyresburg, TN. Hopefully he will be able to join us at Tullahoma. http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/musketeermail/lst -- Shelby Smith 68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 Located at EAA Chapter 162 Sport Aviation Complex ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Brandon Pictures
Date: Sep 09, 2001
Shelby; I'd love to see the pictures, but don't care to sign up for anything, especially when after doing so, you're listed in every index YAHOO owns and your address sold to every company that'll cut a check for it. One of the pitfalls of the information age --- abuse! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shelby Smith" <rvaitor(at)home.com> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2001 7:20 AM Subject: Beech-List: Brandon Pictures > > Hello Everyone, > > Our website now has a Photos section. I uploaded pictures from yesterday's > event. Morning weather probably prevented a lot of folks from making it. > > I did meet a new Sierra owner from Dyresburg, TN. Hopefully he will be able > to join us at Tullahoma. > > http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/musketeermail/lst > > -- > Shelby Smith > 68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 > Located at > EAA Chapter 162 Sport Aviation Complex ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2001
Subject: Re: Brandon Pictures
From: Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)home.com>
I'll send them directly if you want. I thought I was posting this to my Yahoo group email list. Sorry. -- Shelby Smith 68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110 Located at EAA Chapter 162 Sport Aviation Complex > From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> > Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 07:40:46 -0500 > To: > Subject: Re: Beech-List: Brandon Pictures > > Shelby; > I'd love to see the pictures, but don't care to sign up for anything, > especially when after doing so, you're listed in every index YAHOO owns and > your address sold to every company that'll cut a check for it. One of the > pitfalls of the information age --- abuse! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: manifold Pssr.
Date: Sep 09, 2001
Hi Brian, Peter is right, but you must also be aware that MP also varies a little with RPM selected. A quick check of your MP gauge is to see what it reads at rest, without the engine running. You should be getting barometric +/- a hair, say 0.5? Milt D2440 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 9:18 PM Subject: Re: Beech-List: > > Hi Brian. > > My understanding is that you should get about 29" @ sea level, taking into > account a little loss for the engine's efficiency.. and lose about an inch of MP > per 1000' of altitude increase at standard temp. This would mean that you should > read about 20" mp on a standard day @ 9,000'; If you are getting 22", it is > pretty cold where you are or your guage is off. I'm sure that the engineer types > will set me straight on my shade tree opinions, but I wouldn't count on 22" of MP > on takeoff at an airport elevation of 9,000 unless it was pretty cool and my > engine was in excellent shape. > > Pete Scott > D 1221 > > Brian Walker wrote: > > > > > Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're > > getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I am > > showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. > > Thanks, > > Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) > > D-3596 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re:
Date: Sep 09, 2001
sounds exactly like what had happened to me after my engine was overhauled.. After going on the 1992 US Air Race, and running on the redline for 4 hrs a day for three consecutive days, they all read 70/80 or better, cold, and have not varied much since. Milt D2440 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Walker" <walkmet(at)usa.net> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 9:36 AM Subject: Beech-List: > > Thanks to everybody with comments on manifold pressure. What really prompted > my question is the results from a recent compression check on my recently (65 > hrs ago) overhauled engine, I had four cylinders register very low (40# +/-) > and two in the 70s. Upon reading several informative articles on ABS CD, I > slept better knowing that several experts feel that I may not really have a > problem after-all. I recently completed a 2,000 > mile (12.5 hr) flight and used 1 1/2 qts of oil. The engine runs great, > sounds great, and seems strong. The plugs have always looked perfect when > removed, and I've never fouled one. I think the 22" @ 9,000' is pretty > accurate in that I registered 29" at sea-level. At least one friend (?) > insists I need a top overhaul. What do you guys think? > (boy, that ought to open the flood gates!!). > Thanks, > Brian Walker > D-3596 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Subject: Re: Beech-List / Performance @ 9000 ft
Date: Sep 09, 2001
Ron: The guys that tell you they are getting a noticeable increase in MP by removing the air cleaner are probably runnin with a dirty cleaner, and opening the spring loaded gate valve on the bottom of the intake. Milt D2440 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 7:57 AM Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List / Performance @ 9000 ft > > Brian, > > What ! > I will see 19-1/2" to 20" MP at 9000-9500 ft. Temps up there are usually > 50-60 degrees here in So. Calif., and running around 2300 rpm I'll see 135 > kts. or so. > > Of course, I've got the throttle back about 3/4" from Wide Open Throttle to > even out the EGTs, and I usually have it so leaned out it coughs, but its nice > to see gas consumption around 8.5-9 gph. > > Shoving in the throttle to WOT, I will see only 1/4" to 1/2" increase in > Manifold Pressure. The increase in EGT differences jump from 40-50 to over > 100, and the True Airspeed goes up only a couple of knots. > > Shoving the mixture in to almost full rich will buy me another couple of > knots, but consumption will jump at least another 1 gph. (Fuel estimates are > guesses based on a bit of noodling with pencil and paper, and the refill > receipt at the pumps, not an incredibly expensive fuel flow instrument). > > I've been toying with the idea that the Brackett air filter may be robbing me > of a bit of manifold pressure, and I'll have to take it off one day and see if > there's any difference. Somehow I don't think I'll see any. Some old wives > tales say that you get back up 1/2" to 1-1/2" in MP, depending on who you > believe. > > Funny (or maybe not), but putting it on autopilot will usually buy me an > *additional* 1-2 kts. I guess its a better pilot than I am, or my plane is > slightly out of rig. :-( > > Ron Davis > 1954 E35 > E225-8 & PS5-C carb > > > Brian Walker wrote: > > > > > > Anybody out there with an E225 recall what sort of manifold pressure you're > > getting at about 9,000 feet (our density altitude here on a cool day!). I am > > showing a little over 22 inches, just wondered if that's normal. > > Thanks, > > Brian Walker (00V, Colorado Springs) > > D-3596 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2001
From: Peter Scott <winginit(at)jps.net>
Subject: Straight 35 pieces parts.
Howdo I am in need of a ruddervator trim tab for my straight 35: ss 1221 These tabs are flat on both top and bottom surfaces, are interchangeable right or left and were used form ss #1 through 1500. I fell off my chair upon hearing mother Beech's price and I don't even think they had the right part number! The correct part number is: 35-660040-2 (per my 1962 parts manual) I am at your mercy if you have one. Pete 4579V ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Straight 35 pieces parts.
Date: Sep 10, 2001
Pete; I thought they were replaced with a different model, one with a curve on one of the sides! If not, I have a couple down at the hangar. One is a bit bent, the other should be fine. Let me know if that's it for sure. I'll grab it and take a picture and email it to you. Located in Dallas, Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Scott" <winginit(at)jps.net> Sent: Monday, September 10, 2001 6:20 PM Subject: Beech-List: Straight 35 pieces parts.


March 19, 2001 - September 10, 2001

Beech-Archive.digest.vol-ae