Beech-Archive.digest.vol-ak
October 18, 2006 - November 29, 2010
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/digest/beech-list/Digest.Beech-List.2006-10-12.txt
>>
>>
>> ======================
>> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>> ======================
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> Beech-List Digest Archive
>> ---
>> Total Messages Posted Thu 10/12/06: 3
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Today's Message Index:
>> ----------------------
>>
>> 1. 05:16 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson, Fred)
>> 2. 07:42 AM - Re: Main gear doorsMain gear doors (Murray Randall)
>> 3. 08:18 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Rob Breitbarth)
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 1
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson(at)airliquide.com>
>> Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>> If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
>> the clamp.
>> The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>> I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>>
>> Fred Masterson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>> Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>>
>> Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
>> clamp.
>>
>> It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close but
>> you
>> can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Home" <rob87b(at)earthlink.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>> Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Great advice, thanks.
>> >
>> > How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
>> > doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
>> > tanks.
>> >
>> > thanks, Rob.
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> >>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net>
>> >>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>> >>To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>> >>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>
>>
>> >>
>> >>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>> >>with
>> >>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger over
>> >>the
>> >>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A little
>> >>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel. Use a
>> >>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>> >>----- Original Message -----
>> >>From: "Home" <rob87b(at)earthlink.net>
>> >>To:
>> >>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>> >>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>>
>> >>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
>> 6.5x8
>> >>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
>> calipers
>> >>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>> >>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>> >>>
>> >>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>> >>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>> >>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>> >>>
>> >>> thanks for the help, rob.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
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>>
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 2
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads(at)comcast.net>
>> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Main gear doorsMain gear doors
>>
>> It sure is easy to imagine lacquer thinner damage....lacquer thinner
>> will dissolve about everything near it I use it to clean up the
>> comutator segments and the tooth brush I've had several cases of
>> gear inoperability the majority have been motor related so I watch
>> the second hand on my old dial clock on each and every cycle and now
>> I'm rebuilding a damaged 260 HP Maule in an attempt to get some of the
>> Bonanza utility without the gear issues....we'll see Murray Randall
>>
>> ________________________________ Message 3
>> _____________________________________
>>
>>
>> From: Rob Breitbarth <rob87b(at)earthlink.net>
>> Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the help Fred. I'll replace mine this weekend.
>>
>> rob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson(at)airliquide.com>
>> >Sent: Oct 12, 2006 3:07 AM
>> >To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>> >Subject: RE: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >
>> >If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
>> >the clamp.
>> >The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
>> >I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
>> >
>> >Fred Masterson
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> >[mailto:owner-beech-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
>> >Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:58 PM
>> >To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Can't be for sure but a small box wrench is what I used to loosen the
>> clamp.
>> >
>> >It's been about 20 or more years since I replaced mine. It is close
>> but you
>> >can work through the opening in the wing. On my A35 anyway.
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Home" <rob87b(at)earthlink.net>
>> >To:
>> >Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 4:37 PM
>> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Great advice, thanks.
>> >>
>> >> How did you reach the hose clamp too loosen up the drain valve? It
>> >> doesn't look like there is an easy access panel in sight for the main
>> >> tanks.
>> >>
>> >> thanks, Rob.
>> >>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >>>From: Bruce Bell <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net>
>> >>>Sent: Oct 10, 2006 4:12 PM
>> >>>To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>> >>>Subject: Re: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>>
>>
>> >>>
>> >>>Don't know about the rubbing but the Curtis drain valve can be replaced
>> >>>with
>> >>>out removing the tank. Two people work best one to stick his finger
>> over
>> >>>the
>> >>>hole to stop the fuel flow and the other to reinstall the valve. A
>> little
>> >>>messy but gets the job done. Take proper precautions with the fuel.
>> Use a
>> >>>drip pan and put your cigars out!
>> >>>----- Original Message -----
>> >>>From: "Home" <rob87b(at)earthlink.net>
>> >>>To:
>> >>>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 5:56 PM
>> >>>Subject: Beech-List: cleveland brakes and gear doors
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I recently installed the Cleveland brake kit 199-50 which uses the
>> 6.5x8
>> >>>> rims and and Superhawks tires. I find the outside edge of the
>> calipers
>> >>>> are just rubbing the main gear doors. I checked and the tires are up
>> >>>> tight when retracted. Any ideas?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Also, I have a Curtis drain valve that needs changing on the left main
>> >>>> tank. This is the hose clamp type. It looks like I have to pull the
>> >>>> bladder to change it. Am I right?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> thanks for the help, rob.
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rvaitor(at)comcast.net |
For those of you that may have missed this great gathering in Tullahoma this past
weekend, here are a few of my memories.
http://www.pbase.com/shelbyrv6a/beech_party_2006
Shelby Smith
BE23 Nashville, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "llsbiii3(at)netzero.net" <llsbiii3(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | G-35 rear engine baffle |
My rear engine (E-225) baffle has cracked, and I am looking for one to i
nstall or use as a pattern. Does anyone have one to sell?
Sherman Butler
Polishing
Idaho falls
My rear engine (E-225) baffle has cracked, and I am looking for
one to install or use as a pattern. Does anyone have one to sell?
Sherman Butler
Polishing
Idaho falls