Europa-Archive.digest.vol-as
March 09, 1998 - May 25, 1998
> cockpit module upside down it is really difficult to establish where it
will
> sit in the finished aircraft. I brought my fuselage base into the workshop
> last night to check it out and the tank sits at a very different angle in
the
> plane to where it wants to sit while being laid up. Development time
again!!
>
> Have a good one.
>
> Tony
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
> Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
> Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
> Auckland New Zealand
>
> Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
> Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
> and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk (Jim Naylor) |
>Jim,
>
>How are you getting on with Jerry's fuel tank sender? My build progress is
>being held up while I choose a sender and I want to know if you see (or saw)
>any problems finding a location for Jerry's unit.
>
>Looking at how the tank sits in the aircraft there doesn't seem to be a lot
>places that the tank full height coincides with clear area to cut an
>inspection hole in the cockpit module.
>
>I am finding the new (smaller) tank to be an interesting challenge. With the
>cockpit module upside down it is really difficult to establish where it will
>sit in the finished aircraft. I brought my fuselage base into the workshop
>last night to check it out and the tank sits at a very different angle in the
>plane to where it wants to sit while being laid up. Development time again!!
>
>Have a good one.
>
>Tony
I think there may be few others out there who are interested in an
inexpensive electric fuel gauge, so I will post the reply back to the group
even though the original message was intended for my ears only.
I have not received the unit yet, but I am expecting it in the post today,
so I can't give you much of an update at the moment, but I can tell you
what my Ideas are. I see two options for mounting.
One is to fit it through a hole in the head rest. This would be rather
difficult but would look neat.
The other is to position it just outside the head rest and back as far as
possible. This I am hoping, will allow the float rod to just clear the
tunnel, if not, I can angle the rod away slightly by putting a wedge shaped
washer under the head. Jerry assures me, although bending it is a no no, a
slight angle on the unit will not affect it. I know of at least one
capacitance gauge fitted in this position and working successfully.
The other mod. I want to do at the same time, is reposition the sight gauge
to directly in front of the tank, with the breather tube returning directly
into the tank through a fitting on the flange of the electric gauge. This
should eliminate the problem of fuel sitting in the breather tube, causing
errors and also get rid of the fuel line running around your knees.
We will then hopefully have two reliable fuel gauges, and an access hatch
to the tank for inspections.
Obviously I have to submit the mods.to the PFA.first, so I will not be able
to get stuck into the job straight away, but I will post further up dates
soon.
Jim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Thursby <jthursbyeuropa(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filler, etc. |
>James, from the Car mechanics magazines I read now and then, paint shops
>are having to go over to High Volume Low Pressure systems due to a
>change in the law. I don't know the reasoning behind it, but I believe
>you do need new nozzles, paints etc.
>Mike
Hi guy, I said I would go thru this as thoroughly as I could, so here it
is. Starting at the top . Compressors. CFM is cubic feet per minute. This
is the volume or flow of air. PSI is pounds per square inch, or force. The
free air delivery is the actual air flow in CFM which is dictated by your
compressor's hp. As a rule one (1) horsepower is good for 4 CFM. More on
CFM later. Spray guns. Three types to be concerned with. Gravity feed.
Siphon feed. Pressure feed.(pot type) And which, HVLP, or
conventional,(high pressure). Gun requirements vary from conventional= 40
to 70 PSI, 8 to 11 CFM. HVLP= 18 to 80 PSI, 13 to 28 CFM. For you folks
thinking about HVLP that translates to a 5 HP compressor minimum! Take
heart there is a solution. A lot of the HVLP systems on the market can be
purchased with a turbine power unit. These units work great. I have had the
pleasure of using a system made by a company called Fastech
(847)836-1633(u.s.) It's called the citation. It also has a built in fresh
air respirator. A must for isocyanate containing products. It's available
with either a Lexaire or a Accuspray gun. This unit puts out 110 CFM at the
unit. But they must be put in a clean air environment. Also you should use
1 step slower reducer than normal as these units also heat the air. ie-
from mediun to slow reducer. Otherwise your paint will dry too fast.
(another cause of orange peel). Now. On to paint. Volatile organic
compound, or known as VOC's. The burden of VOC compliance has been placed
on the manufacturers of refinish coatings. This means that we cannot
manufacture products that are not compliant. The national rule (U.S.) Is
not going to require the use of HVLP equipment. Unless you live in one of
the restricted areas such as Los Angeles, Louisville KY., Houston Tx. ect,
you can spray with what you please. even if you live in L.A. you could buy
a spraygun of choice out of state for your personal use. Most important
IMHO is spraygun setup. I could REALLY get long winded here but, you need
the proper fluid needle, fluid nozzle, and air cap for the products you are
spraying. What works for one product may not work with another. What works
for high build primer will probably not be the best chioce for your
topcoat. Pay attention to air pressures on any gun type. Go with the paint
manufactures recommedation's whenever possible. I hope this helps you
gent's a little. If you think of something I've missed, let me know. Thanks
for listening.
Jim Thursby
N814AT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 09/03/98 08:45:05, jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk writes:
<< The other mod. I want to do at the same time, is reposition the sight gauge
to directly in front of the tank, >>
I have a pair in this position and approved for test. They did not require it
to be visible right down to the bottom so it can be outside the tunnel. The
scale expansion due to the small tank section near the bottom (and only half
of it) means that only the last 5 litres is not visible. There is a small
error still on the ground (10mm level change) which means different things
according to which of the 3 scale rates you are on, but it is far superior to
the original. By returning their tops directly to the tank, the dorsal vent
becomes available for the pressure (ASI) fuel gauge in the headrest end,
overcoming the PFA's objection to fuel vapour in the case of the that
instrument.
Graham C. G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 08/03/98 20:22:54, tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz writes:
<< Looking at how the tank sits in the aircraft there doesn't seem to be a lot
places that the tank full height coincides with clear area to cut an
inspection hole in the cockpit module. >>
Longitudinally - mid way along the flat bit between the head rests.
Laterally - outside the headrest by about 2" max. A vertical there goes to
the deepest part next to the tunnel. Not sure about a fat capacitance gauge,
but the pipette gauge work was all done there. Small tank must be similar.
But with the pressure gauge, you can curve the tube at the bottom so it can go
almost anywhere. I have done tests just behind the headrest as far out towards
the fuselage as it will go, which keeps the outlet out of the way and leading
straight into the headrest. Why do we call them headrests. Midgets wouldn't
be able to see out forwards (:-)))
Graham C G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Graham,
How did you route the pipe? If it is outside the tunnel does that mean it is
sitting against your hip?
Bringing it up inside the tunnel so that it is visible through the hole to
the fuel cutoff valve seems to be a good option.
Tony
-
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
> Longitudinally - mid way along the flat bit between the head rests.
> Laterally - outside the headrest by about 2" max. A vertical there goes to
> the deepest part next to the tunnel. Not sure about a fat capacitance
gauge,
> but the pipette gauge work was all done there. Small tank must be similar.
This is the bit that is causing me the trouble. The unit mounts with a VDO
tank flange and it is going to be a really close fit. I may end up having to
take a bit out of the "headrest" ply to get it to fit. If I do then I will
make a small cover for the unit and effectively raise the "headrest" floor by
an inch or so with a dummy base.
Tony
ps
Found a good way of establishing just where the tank sits. I rigged the
fuselage lower half up in its proper position then put the cockpit module
with tank into the fuselage. With the tank now sitting on the floor of the
fuselage I stuck several short plastic marker strips onto the fuel tank sides
acting as spacers to indicate how far away it was from the cockpit module
front and top.
It was then a simple job to pull the cockpit module out, turn it upside down
and position the tank with packing so that the plastic strips were in the
same location as they were when the module was in the fuselage.
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk (Jim Naylor) |
How do you plan on making the tube visible? I had thought of bringing it into
the baggage compartment, running it up the forward face and then back into
the fuel tank area to be externally vented but your idea of returning it to
the tank is even better. I intend only using the tube as a visual pre flight
and fueling indicator only.
Tony
I will run the tube up in front of the tank, so that the lower part will be
visible by opening the fuel tap hatch, and top part will run up the seat
back centre section and will be visible all the time, - useful when filling
the tank to the brim. I have made a mock up version to test the concept and
it looks ok. If the scale is positioned towards the starboard side, it can
be viewed by the pilot, with just a little bit of difficulty. It would work
just as well running up the baggage bay, but obviously it would then only
be available as a pre flight check, which is a bit of a waste of a useful
back up fuel gauge.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
Can I interrupt the fuel gauge discussions? Could anyone recommend a spray
on "leather" finish for the instrument console?
Many thanks.
By the way, sorry ... for U.K only ... overheard in our favorite restaurant
last week.
Voice 1: "Have you heard they've found water on the Moon?"
Voice 2: "No, but I bet Yorkshire Water impose a hose pipe ban!"
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>
> >Now there's clever thinking for you. Well done 99!
>
> Actually its 39 Tony,- unless 99 has some meaning other than build number?
The saying "Well done 99" comes from that classic TV series...... Maxwell
Smart!
Tony
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
hello all,
a bit of advice for those who have one or are contemplating them. Wired
mine up in the panel at last, plugged it temporarily into the fuzz, complete
with standard europa aerial, worked fine: heard and spoke to a couple of local
airfields from the garage! But would my 760D internal intercom work? nope.
After some further investigation (thanks Rolph) it would appear that Terror
760d's internal intercom doesnt like certain brands. David Clarks are one, and
my Flightcom eclipse's are another. Seems to work ok with Peltors but dont
know about other makes.
short answer is budget for an intercom too: I didnt, consequently am going
to get a bollocking if the wife sees next months credit card bill (wince ;O)
chus, dave
kit67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
hello all,
a capacitance fuel gauge, such as westach or skysports, with a 3" diameter
sender head, will fit into the europa fuel tank from the top, clearing both
the saddle, fuel outlet and headrests, if fitted 395mm inboard of the tank
edge and 130mm from the rear of the tank. it will be quite close to the
headrest and will need a hole in the cockpit module between the headrests to
stick out through - this distance may vary as the tank is filled/emptied so a
cover over it will be needed too. you'll want access to wirelock the bolts and
occasionally have a look in the tank anyway... Only a 1 inch diameter hole is
needed in the tank itself.
chus, dave
kit 67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 10/03/98 08:27:38, jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk writes:
<< running it up the forward face and then back into the fuel tank area to be
externally vented >>
The readings of the old sight gauge were often totally different from "true by
filling", as it was all too easy for a plug of fuel to get trapped out of
sight in the vent line, which in effect subtracts from the column. So one has
to be rather careful how the coupling into the airspace at the top of the tank
is made. a) if the tank is really full or overfull, there is no airspace, so
such a pipe will be flooded, though normality should prevail when the level
comes back below the vent pipe connection, providing the pipe steadily rises.
b) but probably worse, when the tank is near full, tilts in either plane,
and sloshing, will easily send plugs of fuel back into the top of the sight
tubes on top of a column of air. With a short external line entering the
top surface of the tank, it should be possible to see that any such plugs
have drained back into the column correctly.
Venting to the filler hose behind the tank (even if high enough to be in
guaranteed airpsace) is unfortunately out, as it would certainly get flooded
from the wrong end durng filling. So perhaps a T some way up the tank vent
line would be best. Too far up and we are back again at the original design
!
If we all try somewhere different, perhaps an optimum answer will emerge !
Graham C G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 10/03/98 01:06:04, tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz writes:
<< I may end up having to take a bit out of the "headrest" >>
IMHO the headrest would be better if it were scalped, and the scalp hinged.
You then literally open up a lot more options for equipment in the tank, which
would be neatly out of view. Would presumably have to check the structural
integrity change. though
Graham G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 10/03/98 00:56:32, tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz writes:
<< If it is outside the tunnel does that mean it is sitting against your hip?
>>
Spose it depends on your hips. Certainly below 10 litres it is easier to see
on the passenger side, for (as long as you are not misinterpreted) you can
prod them aside in the lower regions if their clothing obscures it. It is as
easy to look under your arm as over it. I would not normally expect to look
low down on my (reserve) side, as it would have been panic stations some time
earlier.
I didn't try anything inside the tunnel as :
1) one of the PFA objections to the pipette gauge was that "the pilot should
not have to DO anything apart from look at it", and lifting a lid is in this
category is it not ?
2) I have hinged the lid on the rear of the tunnel top, and this ledge would
obscure an important section of the tube. Didn't want to rebuild all that
again, and anyway it's dark in there ! (You could put a (fridge type) light
in there, though).
3) The top of the tank is much narrower than the bottom, so vertical internal
pipes would run pretty close to where your hand goes for the fuel tap.. Ok,
you can make the pipes follow the profile of the side of the tunnel, but the
scale then has to be a weird shape and so on.
But no doubt you could do it your way from scratch.
Graham C. G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Thursby <jthursbyeuropa(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Console Finish |
Dennis, We have something in the states called Zolotone. It's a water based
product with a lot of texture. Also called trunk paint, spatter paint.
Check with a auto refinish supplier.
Jim Thursby
N814AT
>Can I interrupt the fuel gauge discussions? Could anyone recommend a spray
>on "leather" finish for the instrument console?
>
>Many thanks.
>
>By the way, sorry ... for U.K only ... overheard in our favorite restaurant
>last week.
>
>Voice 1: "Have you heard they've found water on the Moon?"
>
>Voice 2: "No, but I bet Yorkshire Water impose a hose pipe ban!"
>
>Dennis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Thursby <jthursbyeuropa(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filler, etc. |
Hi Duncan, In a nutshell, you will have to slow down on your speed, and if
you were spraying at appx. 8 in. (thumb to pinkie, hand stretched) with a
conventional gun, move in closer with your spray passes. Probably only 4 or
5 inches. (100 to 130 mm). Best advice is to practice on a scrap hood or
bonnet, and use a dark colour so you can observe your spray pattern better.
Go to a auto dent shop to ask for a junk panel they are throwing out. Be
precise with mix ratios and fan control. Good luck, let me know how you do.
Jim Thursby
N814AT
>Can you comment on the variation in manual technique required when using an
>HVLP? Having developed over the years the skills for conventional spraying
>I`m warey about changing horses at such an important time.
>
>Duncan McFadyean
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra radios |
Trouble with the GA headset standard is there IS NO STANDARD. I am planning
an ICA200 with integral intercom but with front end headset matching units.
Mic level and speaker impedance varies from band to band. Most intercoms
seem to work if you plug in two identical headsets. Its may not be enough
to use two headsets the same make.
Jerry
----------
> From: DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com>
> Subject: Terra radios
> Date: 10 March 1998 21:49
>
> hello all,
> a bit of advice for those who have one or are contemplating them.
Wired
> mine up in the panel at last, plugged it temporarily into the fuzz,
complete
> with standard europa aerial, worked fine: heard and spoke to a couple of
local
> airfields from the garage! But would my 760D internal intercom work?
nope.
> After some further investigation (thanks Rolph) it would appear that
Terror
> 760d's internal intercom doesnt like certain brands. David Clarks are
one, and
> my Flightcom eclipse's are another. Seems to work ok with Peltors but
dont
> know about other makes.
> short answer is budget for an intercom too: I didnt, consequently am
going
> to get a bollocking if the wife sees next months credit card bill (wince
;O)
>
> chus, dave
> kit67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | ng: G-BHXY first flight |
Alan Thorne's europa flew for the first time at Kemble (UK) on monday 9th
March. Melvin Cross did the honours and informed Alan and his partners they
had a superb handling europa. Indicated stall speeds seemed very slow at
40/34Kt respectively but the ASI hasnt been calibrated yet, although Alan has
a wing mounted pitot/static probe. Just seen him tonight and he is one happy
puppy......
chus, dave
kit67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Whiteley <kenwhit(at)kenwhit.demon.co.uk> |
Has anyone an approved design for twin throttles (i.e. a throttle for
the left hand of each occupant) for a Rotax 912 installation?
Ken Whiteley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Hull <hullhous(at)mc.net> |
Does anyone know if Steve Eberhart is still on line? I have tried
to e-mail him several times about the sacle model Europa project, but get
no response.
Jim Hull A016
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Scale Model Europa |
He certainly is. I had a chat with him this morning.
His email address is....
newtech(at)newtech.com
Regards
Tony
From: Jim Hull hullhous(at)mc.net
Subject: Scale Model Europa
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 13:49:04 +1300
Does anyone know if Steve Eberhart is still on line? I have tried to e-mail
him several times about the sacle model Europa project, but get no response.
Jim Hull A016
of Original Message
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MELVYNBS <MELVYNBS(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Prout's Europa in EAA Sport Aviation mag |
SPORT AVIATION MAGAZINE March 1998 edition.
Good color pix of Prout's N111EU. Kim says to look out
for a "Europa Squadron" in Southern California soon.
Understated but very classy racing stripes on Kim's Europa.
He's gotten in 350 hours since first flight in July 1996.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Kim Prout's Europa in EAA Sport Aviation mag |
The "Europa Squadron #1" was formed in January, and has met twice so
far. Sounds grandiose, but in reality all the area builders get together
at Cable Airport in Upland California to talk Europa building. Kim
brings his plane, several builders trailer their projects there or bring
work in progress, and interested possible-builders are invited to come
see. Once we had representatives from the company that makes the epoxy
used in the US Europas come and give a talk. The other time we had Bob
Archer of Archer Antennas give a talk on antenna construction. Kim
demonstrates rigging the plane and usually gives a demo ride or two,
then shows how it's put back on the trailer.
Kim has a very nice Europa, with numerous little extras such as a
tailwheel pant and outrigger fairings (we don't need to get approval for
that kind of stuff here). I can attest that it's a ball to fly; wish
mine was done.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MELVYNBS [SMTP:MELVYNBS(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 12, 1998 18:43
> To: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
> Subject: Kim Prout's Europa in EAA Sport Aviation
> mag
>
> SPORT AVIATION MAGAZINE March 1998 edition.
> Good color pix of Prout's N111EU. Kim says to look out
> for a "Europa Squadron" in Southern California soon.
> Understated but very classy racing stripes on Kim's Europa.
> He's gotten in 350 hours since first flight in July 1996.
The Europa Squadron #1 was formed in January, and has met twice so far. Sounds
grandiose, but in reality all the area builders get together at Cable Airport
in Upland California to talk Europa building. Kim brings his plane, several builders
trailer their projects there or bring work in progress, and interested
possible-builders are invited to come see. Once we had representatives from the
company that makes the epoxy used in the US Europas come and give a talk. The
other time we had Bob Archer of Archer Antennas give a talk on antenna construction.
Kim demonstrates rigging the plane and usually gives a demo ride or two,
then shows how it's put back on the trailer.
Kim has a very nice Europa, with numerous little extras such as a tailwheel pant
and outrigger fairings (we don't need to get approval for that kind of stuff
here). I can attest that it's a ball to fly; wish mine was done.
-----Original Message-----
From: MELVYNBS [SMTP:MELVYNBS(at)aol.com]
Subject: Kim Prout's Europa in EAA Sport Aviation mag
SPORT AVIATION MAGAZINE March 1998 edition.
Good color pix of Prout's N111EU. Kim says to look out
for a Europa Squadron in Southern California soon.
Understated but very classy racing stripes on Kim's Europa.
He's gotten in 350 hours since first flight in July 1996.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: HY [was Re: G-BHXY first flight] |
>Alan Thorne's europa flew for the first time at Kemble (UK) on monday 9th
>March.
Congratulations to Alan, and (dons flameproof suit) I guess he'd prefer to
be flying his Europa G-BXHY than Piper J3 Cub G-BHXY ...
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dbosomworth(at)meto.gov.uk |
| Subject: | Re: G-BXHY [was Re: G-BHXY first flight] |
>>Alan Thorne's europa flew for the first time at Kemble (UK) on monday 9th
>>March.
>Congratulations to Alan, and (dons flameproof suit) I guess he'd prefer to
>be flying his Europa G-BXHY than Piper J3 Cub G-BHXY ...
>cheers
>Rowland
All the right bits but no guarantee their in the right order..
bit like my plane i suppose..
thanks Rowland, i dont spit flames
chus, dave
kit67
(in works email mode)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dbosomworth(at)meto.gov.uk |
hello all,
just been reading TonyK's builders log and noticed
he cut some tufnel spacers, I assume for the rudder cables
around the engine mount.
I took Graham Singletons advice and sleeved the
rudder cables from the pedals to the pulley, put a strip of
2 layers of bid along it to hold it all in place except for
about 6 inches at each end, free to move as required. If
set up carefully, the sleeve extends just about level with
the u/c frame, adding extra protection against chaffing
here. Try A/C Spruce Nylaflow nylon tubing 3/16 od x 0.138
id.
chus, dave
kit67
(also known as davebuzz(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Dawes-Gamble(test) <tomdg> |
Hi,
Sorry about the noise I am just checking the software changes have
not stopped your list working.
Best regards,
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marl Halbrook <pilot89m(at)mindspring.com> |
Does anyone have a phone # for Kim Prout in Calif.? A friend of mine and I
are building in south Georgia and would like to call him with a couple of
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nigel_graham(at)MENTORG.COM (nigel_graham(at)mentorg.com) |
Having followed the "Fuel Gauge" thread for the last couple of months, I
thought you might be interested in the latest offerings from Avelec. I have
just taken delivery of their latest FMD fuel monitor and can now compare it
with their first fuel monitor. In contrast to the rather cheap looking (my
opinion) gauge of Avelec's earlier offerings, the FMD uses a smart backlit LCD
bar display (as requested by some contributors to this thread). This also
houses the electrickery, dispensing with the need for the separate cast metal
box used before and saving weight. The probe is much the same, but now has a
neat BNC connector bonded to the top, replacing the earlier flying lead.
The most significant change is that the user can now calibrate his own
system.....this was previously a factory task. Calibration correlates known
quantities of (a specific type of) fuel to a specific indication on the LCD,
producing a damped, linear display of up to 48 bars.......just what you want!
Of importance to all Europa builders is weight. The display/processor and
mounting weighs just 200 gramms, my fuel probe weighs 143 gramms and the
connecting harness comes in at 57 gramms, thats exactly 400 gramms total. By
way of comparison, the plastic tubing supplied by the factory weighs 620
gramms, add to that the jubilee clips and unuseable fuel ,and I reckon the
whole system will be about half the weight of the standard setup. (How does
that compare with the "ASI" manometer with all that plastic tubing?).
Power consumption is 15mA or 45 mA with backlighting ....even a Rotax could
power that!
I had a custom probe made to fit my non standard tank, the cost was =A3255, and
delivery was 3 weeks. There are cheaper systems on the market, but as the
saying goes "if you pay peanuts...you get monkeys"
The only drawback that I can see is that common to all "Capacitance" probe
installations in that calibration is only valid for one particular type/grade
of fuel. The difference in RD between 100ll, Mogas or unleaded will give wildly
varying indications on the display.
An article was recently published in the January/February '98 edition of
"Microlight Flying" magazine (P11) covering Avelec's FMS fuel monitor system.
Avelec can be found at:
Unit 6 Manor Farm Courtyard, Rowsham, Bucks HP22 4QP, UK Tel. 44 (0)1296
682465.
Hope this of use.
Nigel (147)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | to kill your Concord battery with 2 extra volts . . . |
Just got back from our second weekend seminar gig of 1998 in
Manassas, VA. Dee and I got home about 1:00 a.m. today
and I had 600 pieces of e-mail to sort through! This is
a thread formed of comments from several listers on the
same topic but possibly from or more than one list . . . .
Yep . . . two extra volts is indeed one way to kill 'em dead.
>I purchased a new Concord sealed battery (X25) for my RV6A and it
>died after one year of use. I think the reason was I had my voltage
>regulator set to high. Initially, I adjusted Vans voltage regulator
>to about 13.6 volts ( which may have been to high for that
>battery ? ), however, over the years time my charging voltage
>crept upward until it reached about 14.5 volts. I kept lazily
>putting off getting under the panel to readjust it. I noticed
>the battery getting weaker every time I went out to the airport,
>until it was at 8 volts this week.
>What should I set that the voltage charging rate to so I don't
>fry my new battery ?
13.2 was NOT too high; 14.5 was not terribly abusive for short flights
but probably too high for extended cross country travel (see below).
-----------------
>I installed a new sealed liquid battery recently. With my old battery my
>system would charge at 14.4 to 14.8 volts. I installed the new battery (the
>only change) and now I'm charging from 14.6 to 15.5 volts! Could it be the
>combination of a new battery and the cold Wx (it was 30 degrees Sunday).
Possibly but I doubt it. Depending on your regulator, it MIGHT be
temperature compensated for battery charging requirements. In any
case 14.4 to 14.8 was too high for about any choice of battery
technology.
--------------------------
>> My notes of wisdom collected from the List indicate that RG batteries
>> should be charged at 14.4 to 14.8 v. >>
>
>I don't know where you got your info, but RG batteries should be charged
at no
>more than 2.35V per cell (6 in your 12V battery = 14.1V). So says the RG
tech
>experts at Battery Man magazine.
A possible source of "elevated charge voltage requirements" for the
RG batteries may have started with B&C some years back. The literature
from B&C's manufacturer of RG batteries was recommending a higher
bus voltage for short cycle ops like 1-4 hours per week in an airplane.
If one wanted to use an RG battery in a continuous float mode (like
standby power in an uninterruptable power supply or emergency lighting)
the classic lead-acid 13.8 volts at room temperature numbers applied.
Early recommendations for Concord agreed. About two years after B&C
won their STC on the RG battery and several years after Concord came
out with their early entries into GA battery sizes (they were
building RG battereies for bigger airplanes for some time), Skip
Koss of Concord showed me data at OSH demonstrating that their RG
products would achieve 100% of recycle recharge in airplane service
with the classic 13.8V figure.
This is a recommendation from one manufacturer of sealed lead
acid batteries that may illustrate the source of confusion . . .
"Cycle Applications: Limit initial current to 0.20C (C is the nominal
A.H. capacity of the battery). Charge until battery voltage
(under charge) reaches 2.45 per cell at 68 degrees F (20 deg.C).
Hold at 2.45 volts per cell until current drops to approximately
0.01C ampere. Battery is fully charged under these conditions, and
change to float voltage."
Interpretation of this paragraph is as follows: Suppose you have
a 17 a.h. battery with unknown state of charge (you've not flown
in several weeks and you just used it to crank a fussy engine).
You can RAPIDLY stuff energy back into this battery by setting
the charge voltage at 14.7 volts (2.45 x 6 cells) and holding
it there until current going into the battery drops to .17
amps (17 a.h. x .01C) whereupon you REDUCE bus voltage to
the appropriate "float" value.
"Float of Stand-By Service: Hold battery across constant voltage
source of 2.25 to 2.30 volts per cell continuously. When held at
this voltage, the battery will seek its own current level and maintain
itself in a fully charged condition."
This paragraph says that if you want to maintain a battery on
a constant voltage bus for periods of time AFTER 100% recharge
has been achieved, then the bus voltage should be between
13.5 (2.25 x 6) and 13.8 (2.3 x 6) volts. Of course these values
are 68F/20C temperature values.
Sooooooo . . . if you do a lot of short flights, 14.7 is good,
long flights 13.8 is better. Obviously, the NEXT generation
voltage requlators should be getting "smart" to the extent that
they not only accomodate a battery for its temperature MODULATES
bus voltage appropriately to take care of both the short flight
and long flight scenario.
Since this product does not yet exist . . . may I recommend that
the 14.0-14.2 volts is a good compromise . . . in any case,
CONTINUOUS bus voltage operations above this value are not healty
for any battery . . . thing is, for wet ones, you can replace
lost water . . for sealed batteries, once cooked always cooked.
I didn't ask Skip about how much TIME it took to get a Concord
battery back to 100% at the "float" voltage level . . . obviously
it will be LONGER than a the "cycle" level but lacking means
for dynamic control of voltage during each recharge cycle, to
err on the side of minimum smoke is good policy . . .
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Monitoring |
In a message dated 16/03/98 14:31:50, nigel_graham(at)MENTORG.COM writes:
<>
Actually no contest, for with the ASI in the headrest there's only a dual run
of about 12 inches to the top of tank, and you don't need that massive stuff
Europa used - (presumably because of feet tramping on it). ASI weighs 350 gm
.
But I do like the idea of programming . There are fluid transducers in the
right range now appearing and a PIC would do the calibration. But if you
haven't the kit to progam one you might as well buy what is being suggested.
<< The most significant change is that the user can now calibrate his own
system >>
Yes, clearly most important for Europa funny tank sections. Incidentally I
think pressure head systems have been neglected because they are not very good
for flat shaped tanks such at those in wings.
Graham C. G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Ferges,
Many thanks for your message. You did not give me your phone number for me to fax
the
Pitot/Static diagram/instructions. I replied back via your email address however
that
was sent back to me stating invalid address.
Cheers,
Tim
--
Timothy. P. Ward
26 Tomes Road
Papanui,
Christchurch 8005
NEW ZEALAND
PH 64033525726
Fax 64033525726
Email: ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
Kim Prout can be reached at:
K.P. Enterprises
1302 Monte Vista Ave #5
Upland, CA 91786
909-920-3055
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marl Halbrook [SMTP:pilot89m(at)mindspring.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 16, 1998 06:28
> To: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
> Subject: Kim Prout
>
> Does anyone have a phone # for Kim Prout in Calif.? A friend of mine
> and I
> are building in south Georgia and would like to call him with a couple
> of
> questions.
Kim Prout can be reached at:
K.P. Enterprises
1302 Monte Vista Ave #5
Upland, CA 91786
909-920-3055
-----Original Message-----
From: Marl Halbrook [SMTP:pilot89m(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: Kim Prout
Does anyone have a phone # for Kim Prout in Calif.? A friend of mine and I
are building in south Georgia and would like to call him with a couple of
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk (Jim Naylor) |
In a message dated 16 March 1998,nigel_graham(at)mentorg.com wrote :
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
Flying up peacefully upcountry with a smile (beaming up ?(:-)) , and tuned to
a silent FIR VHF channel, our reverie was abruptly disturbed by a 90 db burst
of dance band music, followed by a stream of French !
This was around 400nm north of the Channel. Ok this is about the skip distance
for MF, but amazingly it was still there when the Narco com. and ICOM22 VOR
were switched off !. Disappeared only when the intercom was muted. Have to
look at that shielding again, but where's the rectification in it to
demodulate. Perhaps it has overload protection diodes ? Anyone else had this
with a Flitecom 2 place unit ?
I have to report that a light aircraft disappeared without trace in the area
while we were flying. It later turned out that he had filed a flight plan
with a different callsign from the aircraft he was flying !
Heard over the RT (in English)
ATC - (to pilot meandering aimlessly around after landing )
"Alpha Bravo are you fully familiar ?"
Alpha Bravo : "Mebbe, but I'll need some instructions first !"
Graham C. G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nigel_graham(at)MENTORG.COM (nigel_graham(at)mentorg.com) |
<< I am aware that capacitance gauges can misread due to different fuel types
<< but I did not realise they could be wildly out. Are you able to quantify
<< wildly? What would be the difference between Mogas and Avgas in their most
<< divergent states?
<<
<< Jerry
On reflection, "Wildly" was perhaps an inappropriate word. To quote Ed
Jelonek, the designer and manufacturer of the Avelec FMS , "Differing fuels can
give 'significantly' different results".
The readings remain linear, but are displaced up or down the scale depending
on the RD of the fuel.
Nigel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk (Jim Naylor) |
| Subject: | Re: Breakthrough |
Gramin Writes :
>Flying up peacefully upcountry with a smile (beaming up ?(:-)) , and tuned to
>a silent FIR VHF channel, our reverie was abruptly disturbed by a 90 db burst
>of dance band music, followed by a stream of French !
>This was around 400nm north of the Channel. Ok this is about the skip distance
>for MF, but amazingly it was still there when the Narco com. and ICOM22 VOR
>were switched off !. Disappeared only when the intercom was muted. Have to
>look at that shielding again, but where's the rectification in it to
>demodulate. Perhaps it has overload protection diodes ? Anyone else had this
>with a Flitecom 2 place unit ?
I have had a similar situation on several occasion when flying on the North
Wales / English boarder. It sounds like a Welsh speaking station comes over
the radio, I have also traced it to the intercom, but in two different
aircraft with different intercoms, one of them is a certified aeroplane
with 'professionally' installed and approved equipment.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new tailwheel |
In a message dated 03/12/97 16:03:26, you write:
<< as proved on our test flight which was conducted with a 10 knot cross wind
from the left. >>
Dave, I have been reading all the old discussions about the tail wheel mod.
again,
cos I have at last got around to testing my version which I believe is similar
to yours except for use of a rod through the bottom of the old tailwheel
mount.
On ground handling, yes I can "blow it round" as you said, almost on a point
to the left, but not to the right. On landing I haven't done enough yet, but I
still seem to find myself short of right rudder. How does this align with your
experience to date ?
Cheers
Graham C G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Tit bits to while away some time.
Reg
T.R.
>> THINGS YOU WOULD NEVER KNOW WITHOUT THE MOVIES
>>
>> During all police investigations it will be necessary to visit a strip
>> club at least once.
>>
>> All telephone numbers in America begin with the digits 555.
>>
>> All beds have special L-shaped cover sheets which reach up to the armpit
>> level on a woman but only to waist level on the man lying beside her.
>>
>> The ventilation system of any building is the perfect hiding place.
>> No-one will ever think of looking for you in there and you can
>> travel to any other part of the building you want without difficulty.
>>
>> Should you wish to pass yourself off as a German officer, it will
>> not be necessary to speak the language. A German accent will do.
>>
>> A man will show no pain while taking the most ferocious beating but
>> will wince when a woman tries to clean his wounds.
>>
>> Kitchens don't have light switches. When entering a kitchen at
>> night, you should open the fridge door and use that light instead.
>>
>> If staying in a haunted house, women should investigate any strange
>> noises in their most revealing underwear.
>>
>> Cars that crash will almost always burst into flames.
>>
>> Wearing a vest or stripping to the waist can make a man
>> invulnerable to bullets.
>>
>> If you find yourself caught up in a misunderstanding that could be
>> cleared up quickly with a simple explanation, for goodness sake,
>> keep your mouth shut.
>>
>> Any person waking from a nightmare will sit bolt upright and pant.
>>
>> A cough is usually the sign of a terminal illness.
>>
>> All bombs are fitted with electronic timing devices with large red
>> readouts so you know exactly when they're going to go off.
>>
>> When in love, it is customary to burst into song.
>>
>> When confronted by an evil international terrorist, sarcasm and
>> wisecracks are your best weapons.
>>
>> One man shooting at 20 men has a better chance of killing them
>> than 20 men firing at 1 man.
>>
>> Creepy music coming from a cemetery should always be investigated
>> more closely.
>>
>> If being fired at by Germans, hide in a river - or even a bath.
>> German bullets are unable to penetrate water.
>>
>> Most laptop computers are powerful enough to override the
>> communication systems of any invading alien civilization.
>>
>> Freelance helicopter pilots are always eager to accept bookings from
>> international terrorist organizations - even though the job will
>> require them to shoot total strangers and will end in their own
>> certain death as the helicopter explodes in a ball of flames.
>>
>> Most people keep a scrapbook of newspaper clippings - especially if
>> any of their family or friends have died in a strange boating
>> accident.
>>
>> All computer disks will work in all computers, regardless of
>> software.
>>
>> Police Departments give their officers personality tests to make
>> sure they are deliberately assigned a partner who is their total
>> opposite.
>>
>> When they are alone, all foreigners prefer to speak English to each
>> other.
>>
>> Action heroes never face charges for manslaughter or criminal damage
>> despite laying entire cities to waste by their actions.
>>
>> You can always find a chainsaw when you need one.
>>
>> Any lock can be picked by a credit card or a paper clip in seconds -
>> unless it's the door to a burning building with a child trapped
>> inside.
>>
>> You can tell if somebody is British because they will be wearing a
>> bow tie.
>>
>> When driving a car it is normal to look not at the road but at the
>> person sitting beside you or in the back seat for the entire
>> journey.
>>
>> An electric fence, powerful enough to kill a dinosaur will cause no
>> lasting damage to an eight year old child.
>>
>> Having a job of any kind will make father's forget their son's
>> eighth birthday.
>>
>> Honest and hard working policemen are traditionally gunned down
>> three days before their retirement.
>>
>> If you are blonde and pretty, it is possible to become a world
>> expert in Nuclear Fission at age 22.
>>
>> The more a man and a woman hate each other, the more likely they
>> will fall in love.
>>
>
----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | slip and turn need urgent |
John Melville who built an early Europa needs a slip and turn electric 12v
very quickly. He would like to try and find a used one. If anybody has such
a thing call him - John Melville 01249 658566
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David G. Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: new tailwheel |
>Dave, I have been reading all the old discussions about the tail wheel mod.
>again, cos I have at last got around to testing my version which I believe
>is similar to yours except for use of a rod through the bottom of the old
>tailwheel mount.
>On ground handling, yes I can "blow it round" as you said, almost on a point
>to the left, but not to the right. On landing I haven't done enough yet,
but >I still seem to find myself short of right rudder. How does this align
with >your experience to date? Cheers Graham C G-EMIN
I must admit that I have not yet had the need to blow it round in either
direction so I cannot comment personally. However when we did the test
flights with Peter Kember and then subsequently converting to type with
Martin Stoner, they both had occasion to blow it round on the rudder, which
was no effort at all. However as to whether it was left or right I am not
sure. Perhaps I will get a chance to try it in the next few days.
As for steering problems on landing, we have not experienced any yet. There
seems to be more than enough control authority in both directions, which at
times has proved quite usefull :-) !!!
Dave Watts 'XDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
> Does anyone know about the PowerSonic battery I just bought from A/C Spruce?
> In the catalog it states it is a "Sealed Maintenance free, recombined oxygen
> cycle battery" (catalog page 324, 26 amp-hour). I took this to mean a
> recombinant gas battery (RG battery) as recommended by Bob Knuckolls.
>
> Now on opening the package, the invoice I get says it is a "Gell Cell
> battery" which Knuckolls does not recommend.
>
> THEN I call them to clarify, and they refer me to Allied Battery here in
> Seattle. I was just AT Allied shopping for a battery and they would NOT sell
> me the same battery I just bought from ACS. Allied said they could not
> guaranty the battery because it was not meant to be charged from an
> automotive type regulator.
>
> Who's right? Is this an RG or Gell Cell? Can it be charged with an
> alternator/regulator? Should I just give up and get a lead-acid battery?
> I have the same battery, it has worked fine for the first 8 hours, I like to
> know if there is a problem with this installation now that my A/C is
> aaaaalmost ready to fly.
I'd be very surprised if it's a real Gel-Cell . . . If operated
not over 14.4 volts it will be fine . . .
BTW, some conversations with various Lead-Acid battery manufacturers
over the past week has yielded the following:
There is a slight difference in recommended charging voltages between
batteries made from "virgin lead" versus "recycled lead" which has
some calcium in it. Most batteries have recycled lead and like to
operate at 13.8 for their 100% recharge voltage (room temp) while
a few batteries like the B&C products are new, clean lead and are
happier at the 14.4 setting.
The consequences of operating a virgin lead battery at "too low"
a bus voltage simply means that you don't recharge it as quickly
nor does it get "topped off" . . . the exact capacity limit is not
known to me yet but I suspect it's still better than 90%. Soooooo,
difference in performance will be hard to perceive and service
life will be good too.
I'll be talking to more folk over the next few weeks and will publish
a more complete article on the topic.
While on the topic of batteries, there was a lot of discussion
a few months back about the evils of paralleling and some
suggestions circulated about needing "battery isolators" for
proper operation of dual batteries. The piece I did on battery
paralleling <http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bat_iso2.pdf>
has been reviewed by two manufacturers and blessed. I'll
publish further details in a few weeks.
We'll be in California for the next week. I have a critical
design review to attend for a few days and I'm taking the
family along for some R&R. Back on-line the 29th.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Southern California, Chino Airport, April 18-19, 1998 in Hal Woodruff's
hangar.
Check <http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html> for directions to Hal's
hanger and some motels in the area. THIS IS A GO PROGRAM - we're now taking
reservations. Check the seminars page for additional programs offered this
year. Can we do one in your neighborhood?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden <RonSwinden(at)aol.com> |
Dear Graham
where ever you are What range of angles do you operate
your prop thru and do you measure at the tip or at 75% radius or whatever
Hope you are having a good time the wrong way up?? or is it us??? Keep well
See y' Ron S
I am doing some rough setting up whilst waiting for prop bolts and a revised
micro switch Bi !! No 33.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. FELL" <jw17(at)dial.pipex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resin Allergy |
Does anyone know of a resin system which is less likely to give an allergic
reaction. I am building an XS Tri-gear kit (no372) and have just completed
stage one. Fortunately I have not sufferred any problems to date. A friend
of mine has bought an almost completed mono-wheel and has sufferred an
immediate reaction. I thought there was a bulletin board message a few weeks
ago which mentioned a US system with no reaction from users but I must have
permanantely deleted it.
Thanks for your help
Jim Fell builder 372 Peterborough.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resin Allergy |
You might try the West System.
I have been using it on a wood plane for 3 years and have had no
reaction to this date.
We have hade good results wit the system.
Jerry Rinehart
> ----------
> From: J. FELL[SMTP:jw17(at)dial.pipex.com]
> Subject: Re: Resin Allergy
>
> Does anyone know of a resin system which is less likely to give an
> allergic
> reaction. I am building an XS Tri-gear kit (no372) and have just
> completed
> stage one. Fortunately I have not sufferred any problems to date. A
> friend
> of mine has bought an almost completed mono-wheel and has sufferred an
> immediate reaction. I thought there was a bulletin board message a few
> weeks
> ago which mentioned a US system with no reaction from users but I must
> have
> permanantely deleted it.
> Thanks for your help
>
> Jim Fell builder 372 Peterborough.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: esin Allergy |
I too, hit a problem from day one. Even with a full hood protector, double
gloves etc I leave the workshop with my eyes streaming and I itch from head
to foot.
The larger lay-ups become quite an ordeal. The change to XS is my
salvation!
For most people, fortunately, there is no problem with adequate
precautions.
By the way, does anyone know when Graham (S) reverts to the right way up?
regards
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re:Resin Allergy |
I would suggest Aeropoxy which is the resin supplied to the US builders.
Graham will reappear in the UK sometime late April when I release him from my
workshop :-)
Tony
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re:Resin Allergy |
Is Graham ever the right way up?
and how would one tell?
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resin Allergy |
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less prone to
provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was allergic to that too.
Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am I allergic to Redux. It's a
matter of personal chemistry, so buy a small amount and try it before
commiting. For me, a respirator wasn't sufficient so I had to get a Hobbyair
to allow work to continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the hardner. Each
epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's personal reaction to
each may differ. I became so sensitized to Aeropoxy that a couple hours in
the garage with the wings which had cured for over three weeks would cause a
major reaction, so apparently the amines out-gas for quite a while. Touching
the cured wings also caused serious problems. Washing the cured parts with a
50/50 mixture of vinegar and water - required before filling anyway -
eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to the
gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an epoxy allergy
since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously. Avoid gloves which use
latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely to provoke an allergy and
powderless gloves are available. Nitrile gloves are a good alternative. Use
string gloves as a liner to minimize softening of the skin due to sweat since
this increases absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the latex
gloves when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally impermeable to
epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves when exposed to wet
epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is prohibitive,
but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some become so sensitive
that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
Regards, John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Resin Allergy |
| From: | Brian Rauchfuss - PCD <brauchfu(at)pcocd2.intel.com> |
>
> I would suggest Aeropoxy which is the resin supplied to the US builders.
I have been told to be careful about mixing resin systems. You
might want to finish the piece your working on before switching.
Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
I think I am going to use a Rotax 912 but I'de be interetsed to hear what
anybody thinks about the 914. Bearing in mind they come with the Exhaust
and engine mount they are not quite as expensive as I had originally
thought. That extra grunt would be gratifying?
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Tony Krzyzewski-Graham |
I suppose the immediate question that comes to mind is how much does Graham
charge for traveling - we live 60 miles from Graham and inspection costs
and travel, Graham assures me, are very reasonable. What does he charge for
New Zealand?
I'd be grateful if you could get a message to Graham. My brother has just
joined the fold and is building a tri-gear (Kit 388), hopefully under
Graham's guidance. He hopes to get going over Easter, how much can he do
before Graham returns?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Having flown in a Europa behind both the 912 and the 914 I can honestly say
the 914 is my pick (which is why I bought one!).
You may however want to consider the 100hp 912, which should be seen around
August/September this year, if the budget won't stretch to the 914.
Also of interest is that the 914 is now shipping with dual solid state fuel
pumps as standard.
Tony
------------------------
From: Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Rotax 914
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 01:05:00 +1200
> I think I am going to use a Rotax 912 but I'de be interetsed to hear what
> anybody thinks about the 914. Bearing in mind they come with the Exhaust
> and engine mount they are not quite as expensive as I had originally
> thought. That extra grunt would be gratifying?
>
> Jerry
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Thursby <jthursbyeuropa(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi Jerry, I have only flown the 914 powered demonstrator in Lakeland, and
have tried limiting the power on takeoff to simulate 100 hp, and can say it
is a big difference in ground run. Not having flown a 912 I can't say I
know the difference, but my money went for a 914. I'm spoiled now, I had
to. I think it's worth the extra money.
Jim Thursby
N814AT
>I think I am going to use a Rotax 912 but I'de be interetsed to hear what
>anybody thinks about the 914. Bearing in mind they come with the Exhaust
>and engine mount they are not quite as expensive as I had originally
>thought. That extra grunt would be gratifying?
>
>Jerry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
Paint Trim
Some cars and vans have some sort of vinyl 'stick-on' trim lines. I know
that some of these fancy paint schemes some airlines have (like British
Airways) use a similar material.
Anyone had any thoughts or investigated material that could be used for
final trimming (go faster stripes) of a overall white aircraft?
Any thoughts, comments names, addresses and phone/fax no's of suitable
suppliers would be welcomed.
Regards
Martin Tuck
N152MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 303 Printing <303print(at)northrim.net> |
Martin J.Tuck wrote:
>
> Paint Trim
>
> Some cars and vans have some sort of vinyl 'stick-on' trim lines. I know
> that some of these fancy paint schemes some airlines have (like British
> Airways) use a similar material.
>
> Anyone had any thoughts or investigated material that could be used for
> final trimming (go faster stripes) of a overall white aircraft?
>
> Any thoughts, comments names, addresses and phone/fax no's of suitable
> suppliers would be welcomed.
>
> Regards
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
Check with a sign shop in your area. They probably have a vinyl cutter
hooked
up to a computer. With a wide selection of colors and types of vinyl.
Vinyl has an extremely long life if maintained and protected.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | ne want some wash primer? |
just having a clear out, found a wash primer kit, only half used: Consists of
half litre each of wash primer, thinner T54 and 4 oz of acid dilutant.
Original date Oct 96, think I did most of my alloy bits around a year ago,
there should be enough to etch prime nearly a complete kit (certainly all the
smaller bits).
If anyone in the Frimley/Camberley/Bracknell area wants to come and collect
it, bring a couple of beers.
chus, dave
kit67
01276 506279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darren Stevens <darren02(at)premier.co.uk> |
Does anyone out there have details of an alternative tyre to the DICO
supplied by Europa. Having replaced the "old" swining arm for the modified
wider section. I'm still not happy with the clearance between the forks and
break calliper. If anyone can give me details of size, make and ply rating
and possibly a supplier I would be most grateful.
Regards Martin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David G. Watts) |
>Some cars and vans have some sort of vinyl 'stick-on' trim lines. I know
>that some of these fancy paint schemes some airlines have (like British
>Airways) use a similar material.
>Anyone had any thoughts or investigated material that could be used for
>final trimming (go faster stripes) of a overall white aircraft?
The trim and decoration on John Tyes, Ivan Shaws G-EUXS and Colin Noakes
aircraft were all done with stick on trim material. These were all done by
Colin Noakes after he had sprayed the aircraft. Perhaps you could contact
Colin for more details.
Dave Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jens-Achim Frei <jaf(at)compuserve.com> |
Nachricht geschrieben von "Martin J.Tuck"
>Any thoughts, comments names, addresses and phone/fax no's of suitable
suppliers would be welcomed.
<
Martin,
here is some information about your country via Germany : Plane
Design at High Point, North Carolina are providing vinyl self-adhesive
stripes that are resistant to oil and fuel. The stripes should last for
seven to ten years. Fax 001(910)889-7159.
HTH,
Jens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cvecchione(at)webtv.net (Carmen Vecchione) |
| Subject: | ed States Builders |
I just read the latest edition of Kitplanes,(April,) and I must say I am
very impressed with the capabilities of the plane you all have decided
to build. I am wondering whether there are any builders in my neck of
the woods(eastern U.S., Philadelphia area.)? Also, I am intrigued by
the rough field ability of the plane. Is there a local builder out
there that is familiar with the laws and regulations concerning
operating the plane from private property? Thanks for your help.
Carmen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
Has anyone used wet & dry silicon carbide paper, wetted with soapy water,
for sanding after filling in order to keep the dust down?
Is there any reason for not doing so?
Any advice would be welcome.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Stout <gstout(at)us.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | t Trim Design - Help Wanted |
Hello everyone. I am US builder # 60 and I'm about 2 or 3 weeks away from
sending my tri-gear to the paint shop. My problem is, beyond the basic white
fuselage, what colors and design should I use for the accent trim? I have no
artistic taste or skills whatsoever, and I know it! Does anyone have any idea
where to get help with the selection of colors and designs? I'm certainly
willing to pay someone who does have those skills, because I don't......and I
don't want my beautifully constructed plane to be painted with some ugly colors
and/or design. Help?????
Regards, Garry Stout
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Can anyone supply the formula/s for calculating the applied force on a
flight control, so that I may be able to do a load analysis on using teflon
sleeved hinges with the consequent reduced pin diameter. If the areas of
ailerons,rudder, and trim tabs is also known this would also be hand At the
same time if anyone knows the forum address for the Longeze/Varieze builders
I would appreciate getting it also.Thanks
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aerodynamic Loads |
| From: | Brian Rauchfuss - PCD <brauchfu(at)pcocd2.intel.com> |
> Can anyone supply the formula/s for calculating the applied force on a
> flight control, so that I may be able to do a load analysis on using teflon
> sleeved hinges with the consequent reduced pin diameter. If the areas of
> ailerons,rudder, and trim tabs is also known this would also be hand At the
> same time if anyone knows the forum address for the Longeze/Varieze builders
> I would appreciate getting it also.Thanks
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Builder No.236
I looked in my directory of airplane design software, and to my suprise
found "consfc8.exe", for calculating forces on control surfaces. Would
you like this? What would be a good way to transfer it?
BTW, the program got the formulas from :
_Low Power Laminar Aircraft Structures_ by Alex Strojnik
bra-uchfu(at)NOSPAMpcocd2.intel.com like the artist paints his dreams on
(remove - and NOSPAM) a canvas" - Minor Detail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Thursby <jthursbyeuropa(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling, Sanding |
Hi Dennis, I use this method working on autos all the time. Fill your
bucket with lukewarm water (whatever that is) and put in 3 or 4 drops of
dish soap. It keeps the paper from clogging.
Jim Thursby
N814AT
>Has anyone used wet & dry silicon carbide paper, wetted with soapy water,
>for sanding after filling in order to keep the dust down?
>
>Is there any reason for not doing so?
>
>Any advice would be welcome.
>
>Dennis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Builders--Carmen Vecchione |
Carmen . . . I don't know who's in Philadelphia . . . but if you haven't
looked at it yet, you might glance at Tony Krzyzewski's web site at
www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html. Tony is in Australia (or New
Zealand--I forget) and has an excellent text/photographic log of his
progress in building a Europa. I'm just now reading it all and find it
informative for a future builder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | y Stout re: Painting/Trim |
Garry . . . I would suggest you find out who does "fleet graphics" (trucks,
vans, etc) in your area. If need by they can cut the trim out of vinyl and
apply this. Vinyl won't fade or chip. They use computer aided signmaking
equipment (so getting an identical "decal" on either side of the plane is
easy--it's the same image cut reversed). A good shop will have a graphic
artist that can give you several alternatives (a real good shop will take a
digital picture of the Europa, or perhaps scan a picture of the Europa, and
will lay out proposed graphics on top of the picture. Regardless, these
guys are in the business and know what they are doing. Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Dee and I were out of town last week for a combination of
business and pleasure in California. Between us, there was
about 1,000 pieces of e-mail to sort through. I've pretty
well cleared my in-basket but given the way I have to scan
incoming messages, I may have missed something. If anyone
is aware of an item I might have an interest in but have
not yet responded to, please give me a heads up on it.
-------
A few weeks ago, I was asked about practical applications
of LED indicator lamps on amateur built aircraft. I've
preprared a draft article now available at:
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html>
If anyone has questions or information to add to this
topic, I'd be pleased to hear about it.
-------
About a year ago, I was planning a periodical publication
for assembling little technical tid-bits useful in the
construction of airplanes . . . the publication was going
to be called Tech-Tips. I decided that I didn't need
another publishing effort but the need for this venue
is still there. As an alternative, we'll add a page
to our website where little mini-articles will be
made available to the aviation public. I'm posting
this notice for two reasons: (1) if you have something to
contribute, we'd be pleased to publish it and (2) let
your EAA chapter newsletter editors know about it . . .
ANY article downloaded from the aeroelectric.com website
may be reprinted as the editor sees fit.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
< If you continue to do, >
< What you've always done, >
< You will continue to be, >
< What you've always been. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: United States Builders |
> I am wondering whether there are any builders in my neck of
>the woods(eastern U.S., Philadelphia area.)?
Carmen - I am the membership secretary of the Europa Club. I am aware of
the following builders in your general area (pa, delmarva, ny, nj, ct)
116 Middle Village New York
162 Philadelphia Pennsylvania
A012 Pittsford New York
A017 Newtown Pennsylvania
A018 New York New York
A036 Bethesda Maryland
A044 Newtown Pennsylvania
However, I am not in possesion of the latest list of builders from the US
Europa slaes outlet in Lakeland, Florida. If you give them a call they
might be able to let you know of a builder nearby who doesn't mind her/his
address/phone being given out. Remember that anyone building an aeroplane
is going to be BUSY, and any time spent with you is pushing that first
flight further into the future, so be sensitive about imposing on their
time.
Can't help with US rules about operating out of a private strip, but no
doubt some of the folk over there can enlighten us. (Perhaps your posting
in rec.aviation.homebuilt, which I haven't downloaded yet but assume is
similar to this one, will reach a wider audience on this topic.)
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pepeborja <Pepeborja(at)aol.com> |
I own a Challenger II microlight and I'm in the process of narrowing down my
next
choice to either the Europa SX or Vans RV6A (all metal airplane). So far, the
Europa is on top because of two reasons: Design and operational costs. Right
now,
I'm waiting to go to Lakeland, Florida for a demo ride and sign the check
(provided my
war department gives me the go ahead).
#1. The guys that are wondering about trim stripes. When I finished my
Challenger,
it was all white and it did not have any trim on it. One day, I went
into a Pep Boys
(auto parts store) and saw decals for decorating Pick Up trucks. For
$50 bucks,
I was able to add some unique looking decals which have received many
compliments
from fellow flyers. My decals look like flying ribbons, but after
staring at them for a
few seconds, you can see the shape of a woman laying down on her side.
It's an
inexpensive option, which you may want to consider.
#2. For Carmen, wondering about private airstrips. Here in the United
States, you can
have an airstrip in your land as long as it does not create a hazard to
existing airports,
structures, or neighbors. In my case, I live in Elk Mound, Wisconsin,
where I bought
13 acres 2 years ago. I built my house on it and made two landing
strips (950 and
600 feet). I'm finishing my workshop/hangar combo and I'm very eager
to start
building the Europa very soon. I believe the FAR's establish that you
don't have to register
the strip as longs as it remains private and you don't want it shown in
sectional charts.
Good luck to you all and I look forward to lay my building paws on what I hope
will be the
first Europa built in cheesehead country (Packer land for American Football
fans).
Jose Borja (Mexicano by birth, removed from his motherland by his war
department and
relocated to the frozen tundra of Wisconsin)
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Folks!
Can any of you super engineer out there help me with a little problem?
After hours flying (enjoyable since the tail wheel mod) I have an apparent
sudden increase in water temperature.
The water seems to warm up quicker than usual and I cannot reach 1000 ft AGL
because the water is then on the red line. Oil temp is then still quite low at
80deg. Reducing power to 4000 rpm brings the water down to 125C.
I have drained the cooling system, removed the cover and checked the water pump
and re-filled carefully to ensure there is no air in the system. It is still the
same.
I had the panel out on the weekend, before this problem appeared, to change the
software in my skymap. I do not know exactly how the VDO temperature gauges
work. Can it be that the gauge will act normal but read high if I have disturbed
a connection?
You all know what a pain in the backside it is to take the panel out so I was
wondering if anyone knows enough about this type of problem or has had a similar
experience.
Thanks in advance.
Best to you all
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling, Sanding |
>Has anyone used wet & dry silicon carbide paper, wetted with soapy water,
>for sanding after filling in order to keep the dust down?
>
>Is there any reason for not doing so?
Dennis - I seem to remember that at one of the seminars, a presenter who
seemed to know what he was talking about (maybe Gary McKirdy?) said that
although using wet'n'dry wet was good to keep down the dust, it had bad
side-effects on the surface being worked on. I'll need to do a bit of
searching to check up on this (don't need to know in the immediate future!)
but in the meantime someone else who was at that seminar might remember? I
think it caused some sort of finish problem. It was something to do with
the water getting into the pores of the surface, and was not a problem for
car-type finishing, only in the aeroplane scenario. Or maybe it was OK on
metal, but not on composites - at any rate, what I took on board was that
despite the apparently convenient way to improve comfort & ensure health,
it was a BAD THING for Europa builders to do.
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Europa FAQ version 4, last modified 31 March 1998
This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa e-mail
list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed by Ivan Shaw
(with a little help from Don Dykins).
FAQ maintained at present by:
Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro & the Europa community]
rowil(at)clara.net
Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time.
Questions answered (* = changed since last version):
0 How do I get a copy of this FAQ?
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
* 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
* 6 How do I join the Europa Club?
7 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
8 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
9 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
10 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
11 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
12 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
13 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
14 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
15 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
16 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
17 What tools will I need to build a Europa and what will they cost?
18 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
19 How will I know I've built it right?
20 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
* 21 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
* 23 What engines are available for the Europa?
24 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
25 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
0 How do I get a copy of this FAQ?
-------------------------------------
This FAQ is posted during the first week of each month to the Europa e-mail
list (starting January 1998).
Previous postings are available by searching the Avnet archives for a
subject line containing "FAQ".
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
New items, and correction or enhancement of existing items are welcome.
Send your suggestion in e-mail to the FAQ maintainer (see above).
Submissions most likely to be incorporated will have similar formatting to
the existing FAQ, and display accuracy in spelling, grammar, and syntax.
The ultimate deciding factor, however, will be the quality and relevancy of
the information. The maintainer reserves the right to edit for brevity,
clarity or humour.
2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
------------------------------------------
You can subscribe automatically by sending an e-mail message to
. The subject is not important but the body of
the message should include the following command:
subscribe europa
You will then receive all future contributions to the list.
* 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
---------------------------------------------
To remove yourself from the Europa mailing list, send the following command
in email to :
unsubscribe
Please note that all commands (including subscribe and unsubscribe) to the
server which runs the Europa e-mail list must be addressed to the server,
NOT the list address where the discussion goes on. Doing that will make you
look careless, forgetful, or incapable of following simple instructions
(and you need to follow a lot of instructions to build an aeroplane).
address which is different to one you originally subscribed on, the server
will not be able to deal with your request. If your e-mail address changes,
unsubscribe using the old account, then subscribe using the new one.
4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
You forgot to choose "reply-to-all". Most email clients allow this as an
option when creating a reply, and some (like Eudora) can be set to have
that behaviour as default. Once the "to" header line has been created,
please remove the original sender's name from it, leaving just the
part. If you don't remove it, the original sender will
get your reply twice & wonder why you're repeating yourself.
You might ask why such an apparently inconvenient procedure is necessary.
When the Europa e-mail list was set up, the list server (which administers
it all) was indeed configured to make the "reply-to" field in the message
headers the same as the list address. This was very convenient for users,
as any reply was automatically posted for all to see. Of course, it also
sometimes caused embarrassment when folk forgot to change the "to" line in
their header when composing a reply meant to be read by the sender only.
However, much worse could happen when ill-configured or ill-designed e-mail
software interacted with list traffic. It could happen that such a system
immediately replied to every list message received by it, thus generating
another list message, which was again replied to, etc, etc, ad infinitum,
thus clogging up the list server and its communication ports with
ever-multiplying traffic. Such "mail loops" cannot arise if the "reply-to"
field is not set to the list address. To protect the list, and the
integrity of all Avnet's operations, this change was made in February 1998.
5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
The person who replied to your posting forgot to remove your personal email
address after choosing the "reply-to-all" option (so that the reply would
go to the Europa list). If the original sender's name is not removed from
the "to" field in the header, (leaving just the part),
the original sender will receive the reply twice - once direct and once via
the list.
See the answer to the previous question to understand why such an
apparently inconvenient arrangement is necessary.
* 6 How do I join the Europa Club?
-----------------------------------
Contact the Membership Secretary for full information. At present the
Membership Secretary is:
Rowland Carson
4 Saville Close
CHELTENHAM
Gloucestershire
England
GL50 4NE
7 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
The Europa factory puts out a newsletter from time to time, a subscription
to which is mandatory for all builders. Those not yet building can also
subscribe, but will not receive the inserts with details of modifications,
etc, which go only to builders. Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Aviation"
at the office in either Yorkshire, England or Florida, USA depending on
your own location.
The Europa Club puts out a newsletter (The Europa Flyer) four times a year
(Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec) to all paid-up Europa Club members. Subscriptions are
paid to "Europa Club". The Club and its newsletter is not connected with
the Europa factory or its newsletter.
The Europa e-mail list on the internet is open to anyone to join. There is
no charge. Like most things on the internet, it is not controlled by
anyone. Neither Europa Aviation nor the Europa Club have any power over
what goes on there, although representatives from both take part from time
to time. It's simply a forum for discussion among Europa enthusiasts. Many
of the useful nuggets of information appearing there are reproduced in the
Europa Club newsletter. The list was set up by and is still maintained by,
a Europa Club member, in the time left over from bringing up a family,
earning a living, and building a Europa.
Both the Europa Club and Europa Aviation have World Wide Web sites, and
they are linked together. The Club pages provide access to the archives of
the Europa e-mail list, and some past copies of the FACTORY newsletter, but
NOT the CLUB newsletter.
8 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft organisation, and you can get help
and advice by joining. In UK, it's the Popular Flying Organisation (PFA)
with local Struts. In USA, it's the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA)
with local Chapters. In France, it's RSA.
9 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA, etc).
The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA. If you
live elsewhere, things may be different.
Several books are available on the subject.
Allan J Hall said:
My vote for most useful books would be:
Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis
Firewall Forward - Tony Bingelis
Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue
Jim Campbell said:
Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740 pages
detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits as well as
over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic composite
construction technigues to test flying and dealing with the Feds...
US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881.
1-800-356-7767
Rowland Carson said:
I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your Homebuilt
the one youll finish Kitplane Construction
by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack
Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft
Construction by Burt Rutan. All except the last are available from the PFA
bookshop. I cant understand why they dont do the Rutan one I got mine
>from Aircraft Spruce, who also do a kit of materials to go with it, so you
can try out the techniques on a small scale.
10 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some countries
will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility that you spend
several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then find that:
you have some subtle medical condition that prevents issue of a
flight medical
you spent so much on building the plane you have no funds left to pay
for training
you don't really like flying in a small plane
you just don't seem to have an aptitude for controlling a plane
OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but maybe
you might have chosen to use your time differently had you known in advance.
11 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
No. The Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license. It is too big,
fast, and heavy to be classed as an ultralight or microlight. The rules
defining microlights are slightly different in different countries, but the
Europa would not meet any of them. As far as formal pilot qualifications
are concerned, it's in the same category as a Cessna 150. However, since
(in its most popular configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger, your
flight safety will be greatly enhanced by having some prior taildragger
experience, and even more by getting some training on the Europa itself
>from a pilot experienced on type before you launch solo.
12 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
-----------------------------------
The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's built one
and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that someone who has
developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling and cannot complete
the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit.
Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of general
pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in the magazines
of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular Flying" & EAA's "Sport
Aviaton"). You can also find them in a Europa-specific forum such as the
Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the Europa internet e-mail list.
You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else build
an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the CAA and the
FAA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain specialist jobs (eg
painting, avionics installation) being done by others, but you should be
prepared to prove that you have done the bulk of the building yourself.
13 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit:
With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know of is
just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500.
Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete from
Europa Club members:
900
1200
1500+
1580
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000+
2300
2400
2400
2500
2500
~2800
2900
2900
3000
3000+
Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working)
builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with on
first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a concours-winner "show
plane" - or even all of the above!
14 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------------
John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995:
Kit delivered 19250
Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given)
Rotax 914 12500
prop 1500
Inst/avionics 10000
Upholst/paint 1000
-----
Total 45000
Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995:
Type: Item: Total (incl VAT):
Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75
Stage 2 wings 4,641.25
Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50
Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00
Fitting kit 2,937.50
overflow bottle 39.95
rectifier/regulator 41.13
slipper clutch 323.13
vacuum pump 675.63
Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50
Instruments altimeter 199.75
air speed 141.00
vertical speed 129.25
turn and slip 282.00
gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10
directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30
standby compass 70.50
Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42
Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25
Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13
Terra height encoder 207.48
Antenna kit 17.63
GPS 705.00
Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75
navigation lights 176.25
strobe 229.13
landing light 0.00
intercom 30.55
Finish paint 587.50
paint labor 2,750.00
interior trim 587.50
Trailer 1,568.63
workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76
Total: 42,355.69
my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00
Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69
In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds):
Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500
Rotax engine kit # 9,000
Average Instrument Fit # 3,000
(ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches)
Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500
Paint and misc parts # 1,000
Registration & test flying # 1,000
Value Added Tax # 4,725
This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no
professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality will end
up spending nearer 35 - 40,000.
I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay your
hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the region of
1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year
In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia:
The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then
you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs
clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its
insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a quote from
Europa for a part share in a container for any future stages I may choose
to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me $6000.00 approx (2900.00
Pounds).
A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds
Packing 40.00
Crating 115.00
Insurance 16.00
Delivery approx 423.00
Fuselage Kit 5200.00
Packing 60.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 21.00
Delivery 696.00
If both purchased together
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 100.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 1078.00
If both were sent in a container
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 160.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 700.00
15 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when he got
his Europa built back in New Zealand, so when he visited the factory, he
brought a tape measure:
The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at
Kirbymoorside, are as follows.....
Height 84 inches 214 cm
Width 81 inches 206 cm
Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm
16 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
No. There are several other designs of trailer available in UK, including
several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade Trailers, and
Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa Flyer at various
times. You can also design and build your own, as described in Europa Flyer
#12.
17 What tools will I need to build a Europa and what will they cost?
Dremel tool
Scissors
Razor saw
Digital level
Resin balance
Perma-Grit abrasive materials
18 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average
handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or at
least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official reasons
given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is "education". Few
people who have not previously built a foam & glass aeroplane will be
familiar with the techniques, but most will reach an acceptable standard
after some small practice pieces.
19 How will I know I've built it right?
-----------------------------------------
Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical
Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable
standard - may even help you do some things first time around!
You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to make & keep
small samples of each batch of layup that you do, which can be tested to
destruction as proof of strength.
20 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
----------------------------------------------------
Graham Singleton said:
Burt Rutan described the best check I know.
6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface. Squeegee
out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in. If too much
pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres relax. Allow to cure,
cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and weigh. 297 gms is a bit light
and might have air voids. 310 gms is perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your
aircraft was built to this ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40
lbs overweight. (18 Kgs if you must )
* 21 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
-------------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system causes
least reaction:
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less prone to
provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was allergic to that too.
Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am I allergic to Redux. It's a
matter of personal chemistry, so buy a small amount and try it before
commiting. For me, a respirator wasn't sufficient so I had to get a
Hobbyair to allow work to continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the hardner.
Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's personal
reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to Aeropoxy that a
couple hours in the garage with the wings which had cured for over three
weeks would cause a major reaction, so apparently the amines out-gas for
quite a while. Touching the cured wings also caused serious problems.
Washing the cured parts with a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water -
required before filling anyway - eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to the
gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an epoxy allergy
since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously. Avoid gloves which
use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely to provoke an allergy
and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile gloves are a good alternative.
Use string gloves as a liner to minimize softening of the skin due to sweat
since this increases absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the
latex gloves when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally
impermeable to epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves
when exposed to wet epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is
prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some become
so sensitive that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is the
ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but they have
delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So, as an aircraft
builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the US, you deal with
the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the aircraft for flight. In
UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but rather a "Permit to Fly", similar
to that issued for a manufacturer's prototype. In USA, they are issued a C
of A in the "Experimental" category.
In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an inspector
appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections, the aircraft
will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of the building process,
preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical Counselor" is required in USA.
Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority must
be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable standard of
workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the builder (ie not built
by a "hired gun") and that it matches the design to agreed tolerances. Any
modifications made by the builder must also be approved.
The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about the
UK paperwork requirements.
* 23 What engines are available for the Europa?
-----------------------------------------------
Rotax 912 (flying)
Rotax 914 (flying)
Subaru (flying)
Mid-West rotary (has flown in at least 2 Europas)
Jabiru 4-cylinder (flying in Jabiru; Europa installation under development)
Jabiru 6-cylinder (engine under development)
BMW RS1100 (Europa conversion and installation under development)
Some of these engines are more "available" than others; but Europas are
already flying with some of these engines. The others are still at the
development stage.
24 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the useable internal
width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed.
Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great outdoors
(freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping the rudder
pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about shoulder room.
Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider what
it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less roomy for the
very tall than some of the other kits (such as the Glastar) but then it has
many other advantages over these, such as fuel economy and all-round
elegance. It is much roomier than some of the more direct competition such
as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I believe) and designed it to be
comfortable for him.
The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you have
a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase this (one UK
builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a substantial modification
which could provide the answer). If you have any doubts then find a
finished example and try at least to have a long "sit" - whilst making the
obligatory "brrmming" noises of course.
At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort during
long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of work.
The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a visit
and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder left convinced
that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as to how he must have
been proportioned!
25 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa is
capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up. The snag,
as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right and you have
failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for error and, at a
certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are committed and there is
no room to change your mind.
Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that there
is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never need that room
- but ... but ... but ... but ...
My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I would
be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields.
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
europa(at)avnet.co.uk
I am still not decided about engines. I did talk to Skydrive again today
who seemed prepared to throw in a free Vac Pump or something. I guess
whilst the pound stays strong they can afford to give something away.
jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
Posting Message test?
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Bill.
I received my Europa Flyer and enjoyed your article.
I hope to fly my Europa back to Wales over Easter (to Cardiff, as I am originaly
from Newport), if the weather is suitable.
It would be great to get a chance to have a look at the NSI prop instalation and
perhaps try it out.
Perhaps you could send me your E-Mail address.
Best regards
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | id Devices Wing Leveller |
I understand that the Navaid Devices Wing Leveller has already been fitted
by one or two builders. Would someone be kind enough to let me have their
installation details and if possible the PFA Modification approval details.
Does Navaid Devices have any future plans for a altitude hold as well?
Many thanks,
Mike Parkin (No 312, G-JULZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MELVYNBS <MELVYNBS(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Europa_Mail:Kitplane Magazine Cover and story |
Europa XS
Peter Underhill does the cover story for the Europa TurboXS (Which has
more stars affixed to it than the Hubble telescope could handle---120?)
KITPLANE. Six pages and seven photos including a cover shot by Keith
Wilson of G-EUXS, G-PYTE, and G-RONA (return on net assets?) in a
Blue Angels style tight formation. Other pixs include a great interior
of the cockpit and instrumentation,also the new tailwheel design get a
great detailed close-up. Story says that 500 kits have been sold with
over 60 Europas already on the wing. Lands slow, flies fast, goes a long
way on a tank of fuel and builds quickly Underhill reports. Covers the engine
alternatives thoroughly. How to do a four point roll? Whap, stop, whap, stop,
whap, stop, whap, stop, whap, stop! All this while Karen Carpenter sings
we've only just begun! -Kitplanes April 1998 issue pages 10-18. Enjoy! See
you
at Fun 'n Sun. Maybe THIS year I'll get to ride in a Europa, eh Mr. Shaw?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Pattinson <carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk> |
| Subject: | 46 - possible fix. |
Ever since the question of Mod 46 reared its ugly head I have been
trying to come up with a simpler solution.
One of my early ideas was to support the fuselage on its side, remove
the tube supporting end brackets and then to pour a Redux/ flox mix into
the end caps, thereby filling them. Each side of the tube would have to
be done separately, allowing time for the adhesive to set. Clearly it
would be impractical to do this on airframes with engines but those in
mid-production could qualify for this treatment.
I originally discarded this idea as not an engineering solution and also
because it would not be possible to guarantee a permanent bond between
the Redux and the metal. However, having discussed the reasons for the
failures and the stresses involved with my mate Ron Swinden, it seems
likely that this idea might work.
Filling the end caps with a solid material would prevent the flexing
which causes the steel caps to crack. Since the solid Redux block is
retained by the rivets which secure the cups to the tube there is no
need to worry about adhesion. In theory there is a difference between
the expansion of the steel and the Redux but as Redux is somewhat
elastic (its full of rubber and glass balls !) this should not become a
problem.
If this could work it would certainly eliminate a lot of hassle and sore
hands !
I would welcome some constructive comments on this idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Mod 46 - possible fix. |
In message <3527591E.7819(at)photos.prestel.co.uk>, Carl Pattinson
writes
>If this could work it would certainly eliminate a lot of hassle and sore
>hands !
It's honestly not a difficult mod - really! It's even easier if you take
off the port stick - I don't think this was mentioned in the
instructions. Sore hands could also be eliminated if you were to detach
the starboard aileron quick connector.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nick norman <nick.norman(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | oduction & engine problem |
Hello All!
I am new to this mailing list and to the Europa having been asked by a
work collegue to fly and share the running costs of his Europa G-EIKY.
It is based at Insch airstrip near Aberdeen, Scotland. We are commercial
helicopter pilots and fly offshore oil support in the North Sea. I also
do a lot of gliding and have flown a couple of hundred hours on the
Falke type motorgliders with central mainwheel, outriggers and tailwheel
(familiar configuration!). I must say that I found the Europa a bit of a
handful during takeoff and landing but a delight otherwise. I suppose it
is just like the motorgliders but everything happens 4 times as fast!
Now I have got about 9 hours on it, I am reaonably happy!
It does however have a little engine problem which I have been trying to
tackle. Can I bore everybody with a lot of background and then ask a
couple of questions? BTW I was an electronic engineer before going
commercial pilot so I know a bit about that sort of thing and also have
always done my own maintenance on my cars and motorcycles and am
BGA-approved to work on motorglider engines.
The engine is a Rotax 912 with warp drive prop. It has the mod for the
cold air box/inlet on top of the cowling. I have experienced carb icing
with this mod, but the effect I am describing is not carb icing. It
starts instantly, and is generally very smooth and never misses a beat
at full power.
However in the cruise (5000 @ 120kts) it just very occasionally runs
rough for maybe half a second. Just long enough to attract attention!
You can really feel it through the pedals, especially. The other thing
is that during the mag drop checks, it is right on the limit on the left
mag and the drop difference is also right on the limit. More to the
point it is just downright rough on the left mag, but sweet as anything
on the right mag. Of course we replaced all the plugs, even though only
25 hours on the engine, but no difference. In the cruise, if I go onto
the left mag it is even more rough, although no massive rev drop, but
smooth as anything on the right mag. On the ground, on the left mag it
is perfect up to 3200 rpm and at that exact rpm the roughness comes in
suddenly and remains until nearly full throttle.
Because it was different on the 2 mags I started with the assumption
that it was something in the ignition system. I started by swapping the
following (one at a time) to the other side: Magneto switches, pickup
coils, generator coils. Nothing wrong with those. Then I swapped all the
coils over with the black boxes, and the fault changed sides, i.e.
nothing wrong with the black boxes but something wrong with the coils or
something "downstream" of them.
Having traced which 2 coils were on the faulty side, I swapped one of
them with the equivalent coil on the other side. No difference. But when
I swapped the other 2 coils, the fault changed sides so I had identified
which coil was faulty (I thought!). To check that it wasn't a fault in
the ht leads or plug caps, these were temporarily replaced with car
stuff but no difference. So I was very confident that it was the coil
itself, even though the resistances etc checked out. It must be some
vibration effect I thought. Today we fitted the new coil (costing the
owner around 150) but to my amazement no difference!
I ran through the diagnosis again but still the same conclusion that it
is something in that coil or downstream of the coil. I am now thinking
that "downsteam of the coil" could include something in the cylinder
itself!
That coil runs the rear two cyclinders' top plugs. The engine runs fine
when the bottom 2 plugs only are firing, but not when the top 2 only are
firing. Could there be some marginal mixture problem and non-uniform
distribution of the fuel within the cylinder caused by, perhaps, an air
leak? Sounds most unlikely, doesn't it, but that is what the test
results point to. (BTW the plugs all look much the same colour). Today
it was bucketing down with horizontal rain so we gave up in disgust
after lunch. I think the next step will be to swap top and bottom leads
so that the same ignition circuit is feeding the other plug, to see what
happens (will have to lengthen the upper ht leads temporarily I
suppose).
Sorry that this posting is so long!! Can I ask 2 questions:
1. Anybody got any ideas???
2. Does your Rotax 912 engine generally run noticeably rougher on one
magneto than the other during the mag checks - is the mag drop
difference near the limit? - and do you have the cold air box mod?
(answers yes or no would both be useful!)
Thankyou for persevering with this posting, any help much appreciated.
Nick Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nick norman <nick.norman(at)virgin.net> |
sorry - test posting only!
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
Sometime ago there was some discussion about HVLP paint systems for
painting Europas. James Thursby provided information on the subject and
I've also had some discussions with Graham (Gamin) about it. As I'm soon
going to have to decide how to go about this painting operation, I was
wondering if there's any other experience out there about 'painting it
yourself' (even if its only to say DON'T) and especially about HVLP
systems.
I suppose that most people will opt to have a professional do the painting,
but there may also be some points in favour of doing it yourself, not the
least of which most kitplane builders are do-it-yourselfers by nature. But
of course the paint job is the area where the quality of the workmanship
becomes REALLY visible and its not worth devaluing 000s of hours of work
and 000s of Euros of investment with a shoddy paint job. But, I've been
reading with interest Ron Alexander's articles in Sport Aviation on spray
painting -- his opinion is that builders of average skill can achieve
really good results provided they use the right equipment and take their
time (which is what the professionals usually don't have). By 'right
equipment', he means HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray systems which
eliminate the high capital outlay and the complexity of conventional
compressor-based systems.
I have done a bit of research and found that Fastech have a product with
combined HVLP paint system and breathing apparatus for around US$800, which
I think is less than a professional would charge to do the job.
The question is: does anyone have any experience with these things? any
recommendations? how many others have taken the DIY option?
Graeme Smith
Graeme Smith Phone: +49 (0)6301 71 22 12
Q-Labs Software Engineering GmbH, Fax: +49 (0)6301 71 22 99
Technopark I, Mobile: +49 172 205 27 02
Sauerwiesen 2, Siegelbach Email: Graeme.Smith@q-labs.de
D-67661 Kaiserslautern, WWW: http://www.q-labs.de
GERMANY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pepeborja <Pepeborja(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Paint Sytem experience |
I used an HVLP to paint my first airplane back in 1994. I bought it at a DIY
store name Home Depot in Dallas, Texas. The price, US$289.00 for a Campbell-
Hausfield HVLP paint system, complete with a spray gun and 15' hose.
Needless to say, the system worked great for a guy that only painted lawn
furniture with spray cans before. I would say the main difference between an
amateur and a professional is having the right space to paint. My paint job
has been judged by many as good but I can tell where the mistakes are. I can
say that the mistakes were due to not having the right paint boot, as opposed
to technique. Next time, I'll spend more time building the paint boot and
jigs to set the wings and body.
Best of luck,
Jose Borja
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mod 46 - possible fix. |
Carl,
this would probably work, as you say, for those aircraft that have'nt flown
yet. Those that are flying could possibly be suffering fatigue in the end
caps, and I would rather do the mod as it is if i woz flying...(soon, maybe..)
however, i carried out the mod as described in the later sheets (no extra
holes required) and found it straightforward, and no real problems at all.
Heat gun melted the glue, and able to use the original rivet holes.
chus, dave
kit67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint systems |
paint it yourself, unless you have over GBP10,000 to give to someone else to
fill, sand and spray your pride and joy. probably a bit cheaper if you fill
and sand it first, but 'professional' sprayers will slap more paint on until
they get the finish they are happy with. I know of one europa that was sprayed
by aircraft (actually RAF) painters. Super finish, but each wing weighed about
15 to 20 lb extra, and in the end the builder spent many hours sanding off the
excess weight! His problem was that he didnt have a couple of RB199's pushing
his europa around....
A guy in one of the Europa club magazines (issue 9, june 96) described a paint
system used on gliders, called Schwabbellack, which is very hard wearing and
durable. I decided to use it in the end. The finish does not depend on how you
spray it on (just using a medium compressor and cheap spray gun), but on what
you sand off when flatted down with 400/600/1000 wet and dry, used wet. I am
very pleased with my initial efforts, would hate to think what sort of mess i
would have made with the standard aircraft paints.
chus, dave
kit67 and now G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
| Subject: | HVLP paint systems |
Is Schwabbelack available in anything other than white? I'd like to color the bottom
of my Europa. Also, does
anyone know of a source in the United States?
Thanks,
David
A071
-----Original Message-----
From: DaveBuzz [SMTP:DaveBuzz(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: HVLP paint systems
paint it yourself, unless you have over GBP10,000 to give to someone else to
fill, sand and spray your pride and joy. probably a bit cheaper if you fill
and sand it first, but 'professional' sprayers will slap more paint on until
they get the finish they are happy with. I know of one europa that was sprayed
by aircraft (actually RAF) painters. Super finish, but each wing weighed about
15 to 20 lb extra, and in the end the builder spent many hours sanding off the
excess weight! His problem was that he didnt have a couple of RB199's pushing
his europa around....
A guy in one of the Europa club magazines (issue 9, june 96) described a paint
system used on gliders, called Schwabbellack, which is very hard wearing and
durable. I decided to use it in the end. The finish does not depend on how you
spray it on (just using a medium compressor and cheap spray gun), but on what
you sand off when flatted down with 400/600/1000 wet and dry, used wet. I am
very pleased with my initial efforts, would hate to think what sort of mess i
would have made with the standard aircraft paints.
chus, dave >
kit67 and now G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
| Subject: | e's the club site? |
I just tried to look up something in the club archives, only to receive the message
"the requested URL
http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa was not found on this server". I backtracked to the avnet home page and poked
around, but could find no information. Does anyone know what's going on?
David
A071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Thursby <jthursbyeuropa(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint systems |
>Hi,
>I have done a bit of research and found that Fastech have a product with
>combined HVLP paint system and breathing apparatus for around US$800, which
>I think is less than a professional would charge to do the job.
>The question is: does anyone have any experience with these things? any
>recommendations? how many others have taken the DIY option?
>Graeme Smith
Hi, I have used Fastech's system that you described, and it works great. I
have used it with the Accuspray and the Lexaire spray guns. Both work good
although the Accuspray is more expensive. Most folks can do a good job on
their own plane, you just need to practice.
Jim Thursby
N814AT
>Graeme Smith Phone: +49 (0)6301 71 22 12
>Q-Labs Software Engineering GmbH, Fax: +49 (0)6301 71 22 99
>Technopark I, Mobile: +49 172 205 27 02
>Sauerwiesen 2, Siegelbach Email: Graeme.Smith@q-labs.de
>D-67661 Kaiserslautern, WWW: http://www.q-labs.de
>GERMANY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter.Thomas(at)arcadiagroup.co.uk |
| Subject: | Where's the club site? |
"We apologise for the temporary interruption to transmission, normal programs
will resume as soon as possible"
During the upgrade to the list server (major-domo) the site was..... er......
.....um....... accidentally sub optimised; OK I admit it Deleted!
As we were the first users of the list server Avnet created the Europa club html
directory within the major-domo directory structure. I guess this had long been
forgotten as upgrading the server went as planned but at the cost of losing our
site.
Don't worry I have a complete back up at home, I'm just waiting for Avnet to
tell me where to put it (so to speak).
I will let people know as soon as it is back.
Best wishes
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com>
Subject: Where's the club site?
<< File: TXT1.TXT >> I just tried to look up something in the club archives,
only to receive
the message "the requested URL http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa was not
found on this server". I backtracked to the avnet home page and poked
around, but could find no information. Does anyone know what's going on?
David
A071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint systems |
UP-Schabbellack Weiss (ref 03-69066) is the standard white, I believe it is
only manufactured in Germany from Akzo-Coatings GmbH, D-70469, Stuttgart,
Germany. Have a tel no. of: (++49) 711 89510 but not sure if it is correct.
Alternatively London Sailplanes could possibly help, UK 01528 662068.
Have just finished spraying the fuzz, and one thing that is noticeable as that
Schwab-weiss does not appear to be as toxic as the standard 2 part aircraft
paint systems. With my S-10 repirator i could still get a whiff of fumes when
priming and finishing the metal bits, but no smell at all with Schwab-weiss on
the plastic bits. (knew that s-10 with its NBC levels of protection would come
in useful...)
chus, dave
G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christian Folco <Christian.folco(at)jet.uk> |
Hello, my name is Christian Folco, builder 331. I am French living in
England in Oxford area. I'm building a XS version.
Despite the fact I am reading the Europa builders chat for nearly 1 year
and being an official member of the club, it's the first time I participate
to that forum. Im presently working on the fuselage and will probably put
the top half on next week. Last week I went to France visiting JPX engine
factory. JPX produce a 2.3 l flat four engine direct drive mainly use as a
replacement for the Jodel and use also for the Lionceau, the MCR01 and some
Italian kits. I was very impressed by what I saw over there, specially the
installations. These people (90) work mainly for Formula one engines
(Renault, Peugeot and Ford) and also Airbus and many others. They are
specialised on high tech casting and machining. Quality control is at its
best. Every part has is own batch and serial number, are checked and
results archived. So each engine has a file. All the parts constituting the
JPX engine are produced by themselves, the latest version is pure magnesium
cast and has the same weight as the Rotax 912. I contacted the owner of an
MCR01 fitted with a JPX (previous version 4TX75/A, 78kg, 85cv) who was very
delighted with this engine. According to him and Mr Buchoux the JPX
director, the performance for the considered plane is slightly better with
the JPX to compare with the 912. The new version 4TX90/A ~65kg, fully
equipped, 90cv will be available this summer.
These engines are JAR22H certified and come with 2 years warranty or 1000h.
I was very tempted before the tour and definitely convinced after. So my
Europa will be probably the first one equipped by a JPX engine. The
Factory will produce an engine installation package. Everything should be
ready for Cranfield.
Christian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter.Thomas(at)arcadiagroup.co.uk |
| Subject: | Europa-Aircraft Web Site |
Hi
Some of you may have noticed that for the last couple of months Europa have been
advertising a new URL in Pilot and Flyer. Until now the site seemed to be "Still
under Construction" (Sounds like my Europa )
Well I'm glad to say that the wait appears to be over and the site is now
on-line. It looks very slick indeed, with good content and graphic design. It's
fully XS aware unlike the old site.
For those of you who haven't seen the new URL it is ....
http://www.europa-aircraft.com
NOT
http://www.europa-aviation.co.uk
But this is still on-line as well ???
I think it is great news that Europa are taking the net seriously again and hope
that they never let their new site suffer from "dead web syndrome".
Now who is going to update all those search engines and web links around the
world ?...............
Regards
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul.Mansfield(at)integralis.co.uk (Paul Mansfield) |
| Subject: | ? point roll (was: Kitplane Magazine Cover and story) |
How to do a four point roll? Whap, stop, whap, stop, whap, stop, whap, stop,
whap, stop! All this while Karen Carpenter sings ...
Err, I don't wish to be picky, but haven't you just done a 450 deg 5 point roll,
ending up in a 90 deg bank? (unless you started off at 90 deg, of course). It's
a nice manoeuvre anyway (or I quite like a 270 roll right to turn left & vice
versa)
IMHO, the greater issue here is the choice of music, if it has to be
Carpenters, why not "Calling Occupants..." (with guitar solo performed by
Karen, BTW); but better by far (SIMO) would be the Intermezzo from
Cavalleria Rusticana (Mascagni) aka the bit from Godfather III (or the
Kleenex TV ad to the Brits) -- actually, lots of classical stuff fits the
bill v. well.
All IMHO of course.
Paul Mansfield #383
Tel: +44 (0)118 930 6060
Fax: +44 (0)118 930 7351
Email: paul.mansfield(at)integralis.com
as a private person (stops the corporate disclaimer...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint systems |
In a message dated 06/04/98 21:43:10, DaveBuzz(at)aol.com writes:
<< The finish does not depend on how you spray it (Schwabbellack) on (just
using a medium compressor and cheap spray gun) >>
I am now finding that even the Europa supplied paint can be dealt with this
way - trouble is that if you haven't put plenty on, then you tend to rub
through before you notice it and respraying local areas can have long term
problems. Most of my defects though have come from not noticing local
depressions in the filler coat at the matt stage. Flash coloured sprays seem
to be the only way - watering the surface shows them up that's bad too as has
been declared recently.
Graham C. G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kerry Lamb" <kerrylamb(at)worldnet.att.net> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Where's the club site? |
>"We apologise for the temporary interruption to transmission, normal programs
>will resume as soon as possible"
>
>During the upgrade to the list server (major-domo) the site was..... er......
>.....um....... accidentally sub optimised; OK I admit it Deleted!
[snip]
>Don't worry I have a complete back up at home, I'm just waiting for Avnet to
>tell me where to put it (so to speak).
Peter has the WWW page source, but I'm not sure about the archives of the
list which have also disappeared. Rest assured they are fully backed up as
text files on my machine here, and can be restored from those copies, even
if saved nowhere else!
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | coat discussion (long) |
I have been following a discussion on the rec.aviation.homebuilt newsgroup
about gel-coat. I'm not sure if it's relevant to the topic as discussed
here, but maybe someone who knows more than me can set us all straight.
Most of the posting seems to be about gel-coat as I used to understand it -
that is, the thin coat of resin applied to a female mould before any layup
(like in that famous Strand Glass make-a-model-boat-hull demo). Although
the process of application is different (inside-out, in fact), is the
material itself the same as the Schwabbelack (?SP) used for finishing
certain Europas instead of the factory-recommended paint system?
My main concern is that there seems to be a difference of opinon on how
strong (& therefore long-lived) the finish is. Any reliable info available
here?
Anyway, here are some quotes from the thread, edited for brevity:
------------ following quotes from rec.aviation.homebuilt ------------
Mark Fisher wrote:
>
> I am about to make a fuselage shell for a motor glider I am building.
> My question is , if I have intentions of painting the finished product
> with a 2 part paint, is there any advantage in using gelcoat.
> My main concern is weight. Will the use of gelcoat to eliminate
> pin-holes be heavier than aplications of primer to acheive the same
> result.?
Gel coat is used in high production shops to paint the aircraft while in
the molds. You can achieve a decent result by polishing the finished
parts after the airplane is built. But the quality of the finish is much
less durable and attractive as if you were to paint the airplane anyway.
Once you resign yourself to painting the airplane, the results with
primer and paint are as good or better than if it were gel coated and
then painted over that. Gel coat is designed as a primer, but I am not
aware of any advantage of gel coat followed by paint rather than primer
followed by paint. If there is such an advantage, it is limited to
production aircraft like sailplanes. I do not think you will find any
gel coat under the paint of champion quality finishes. The only
advantage I can think of for gel coat is that you can have a smooth,
primed surface out of the molds. The savings is that you will not need
to contour the primer, just scuff it up, fix the pinholes, and paint. If
you are building your aircraft in moldless construction, using gel coat
instead of West systems to fill the weave is expensive and heavy.
Bill Berle
----------
In article <352448B6.542B(at)ADDRESS.com>, Bill Berle writes:
>Gel coat is designed as a primer,
If Gelcoat is "designed" as a primer, why is it the finish coat on all
fiberglass
boats under 30 feet. And if gelcoat is less durable why are there thousands
of boats sitting everywhere you look ...unprotected ?
Unmolded construction....there would be better (read lighter) ways. In a mold
there is no other way.
Sal
----------
Sal,
Take a CLOSE UP look at those boats that have sat out a lot.
The fragile gelcoat probably is shot!
Gelcoat has a very limited life.
Ever notice fiberglass camper shell finishes that look like crap?
More than likely it's gelcoat rather than paint.
Refinishing gelcoat takes many man-hours.
Translate that into $$$$$$$$.
Bob Urban
--------
On Apr 3 1998 12:08:58 GMT, amphibdrv(at)aol.com (Amphib DRV) wrote:
>If Gelcoat is "designed" as a primer, why is it the finish coat on all
>fiberglass
>boats under 30 feet. And if gelcoat is less durable why are there thousands
>of boats sitting everywhere you look ...unprotected ?
Because it's Cheap, Easy (read: less labor ie. Cheap) and boats aren't
nearly as weight conscious as aeroplanes.
>
>Unmolded construction....there would be better (read lighter) ways. In a mold
>there is no other way.
There are a few. I've seen a straight laquer primer used as a primer in
moulded construction. Mold release-laquer-layups. But I'd want to experiment
with that alot before doing anything large.
Mark Becht
---------
Gelcoat makes a great base but will not eliminate pin holes. I will assume
you are using female molds to make your parts (spraying Gelcoat over a
fiberglass structure is a lot of work and very very heavy). You could spray
a polyester base primer in the mold instead of Gelcoat. The trick is to put
enough on so that it dosen't alligate from the resin softening the primer
without putting it on too heavy. I like working with the Gelcoat
personally. It is much harder than other primers I've worked with, a plus
if your molds are really nice. Finish with some glazing putty and/or
sandable primer, then a good quality epoxy primer and top coat system.
P.S. .
>I am using Derakane vinylester-epoxy resin.
Derakane is a vinylester resin but I didn't know it could have Epoxy blended
with it (oil and water kinda thing).
Louis Kitz
-----------
I often refinish Kestral and other carbon fiber bicycle frames which are
bladder molded (layups of fiber cloth and resin placed inside a mold with
a bladder inside which forces the layups against the mold when the bladder
is inflated).
When out of the mold the surface is rough. To achieve a smooth surface
multiple coats of a heavy primer-surfacer is sprayed on and sanded to
achieve a smooth surface. The problem is that such primer-surfacers
typically contain a lot of talc or other inert fillers that do not have
much mechanical strength on their own. Small impacts, such as stone
bruises, cause the filler to shatter under the paint topcoats. The
finishes chip easily down to the carbon fiber layer.
In contrast, gel coats place a layer of tough resin against the inside of
the mold. This is (hopefully) followed by layups of fiber cloth and resin
applied before full cure of the gelcoat so that a bonding/crosslinking
takes place between the gelcoat and the fiber layups.
The gel coat is tough and typically only takes a bit of sanding to obtain
excellent adhesion with a good primer (two component epoxy works for me)
followed by topcoats (two component urethane works for me).
Of course, letting a gelcoated product sit out in the sun unprotected for
a long time is just asking for the gelcoat to degrade.
Anyway, if Kestral bicycle frames used in mold gelcoats instead of all
that primer-surfacer, it wouldn't take me so long to refinish a frame,
Kestral frame owner wouldn't have frames that chip so easily, and I wouldn't
have so many refinish jobs. Oops.
Hugh Enox
--------------- end quotes from rec.aviation.homebuilt ------------
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <Ted_Gladstone(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | oprop Gas Turbines |
I believe the magazine Kitplane in the USA carried an article or advert re
small turboprop (100 - 150shp at 75Lbs) reconditioned gas turbine engines
recently. Do any of you readers across the pond have any contact
details for this company?
Ted,
Scotland UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lee wright" <wright(at)hotmail.com> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 303 Printing <303print(at)northrim.net> |
What new web site?
Ken Bauman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
Plastic Sheeting
When doing layups where bid tapes are required it was recommended (I think
by Graham Singleton) that you firstly make up your tapes on plastic
sheeting first, then apply the layup. This helps the bid (which has a mind
of its own dry ) to hold together and allows you to put it just where you
want it. What a great idea!
Up to now I've been using cling film (Reynolds Wrap over here) but its
suddenly dawned on me (ding!) to use black plastic bin liner material.
Its a little thicker, more managable, you can see that you are properly wet
out and you can see what you are doing when cutting them the same width as
the bid tapes. You won't leave any behind on the part either.
I am sure that this has been obvious to everyone else - but just thought
I'd mention it just in case.
Anyone else notice the subtle change to Europa Aircraft Company? - they
even answer the phone with it now. New logo and advertising motto to boot.
New web site didn't seem to work for me this evening though.
Regards
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
http://www.europa-aircraft.com is the new website. I looked at it immediately after receiving the notice
yesterday. For a while, it was easy to get in and view pages, but it then slowed
down to the point where I kept
timing out and couldn't get a thing. I think the server got overloaded.
I can't say that I'm all that enamored of the layout. When leaving the site's main
page it opens subsequent
pages in a new non-resizable window, closing the main window. The pages are extremely
short and wide, with
a long horizontal scroll bar. I guess it's supposed to be cool and suggest the
long flights we'll be making
when we're done building, but I just think it's a pain to use and read. If you
browser doesn't like the separate
fixed window size you may not be able to view it at all.
-----Original Message-----
From: 303 Printing [SMTP:303print(at)northrim.net]
Cc: Europa Forum
Subject: Re: Web Site
What new web site?
Ken Bauman >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
I experienced the same problems . . . the web page began to open, and then
things slowed down until I had to give up. Also, no pictures as of now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel-coat discussion |
Re: Gel-coat discussion
I'm not sure whether it was Europa Aircraft's intention to suggest leaving
the XS gel-coat unfinished, i.e unpainted. You will still have to join the
fuselage together and fill various bits like the join, around the cowling,
screens etc. which means you will still have to prime and paint it in the
normal way.
Perhaps I'm missing something here because the gel-coat finish is mentioned
as a feature in the promotional material. I couldn't see any difference
from the original finish in terms of benefit.
Regards
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
I'm monitoring both the Europa site and the GlaStar site (not having made a
final decision as to which route to go). There's a considerable discussion
in the GlaStar archives concerning gelcoat and getting small quantities of
gelcoat to cover seams, etc. I thought I'd copy and paste one comment that
might be relevant. This concerns a GlaStar being built at the
Stoddard-Hamilton factory:
"I was listening to Ted Setzer talk to Jim Londo when Jim was building
his 'Star in the factory. Ted recommends using an air-powered vibrating
sanding block and taking the time to sand off most of the gel-coat.
The gel coat will shrink over time and show the glass weave. He said
to use overlapping 45 degree strokes in a criss-cross pattern till you
can almost see the weave. He said that this will get rid of a lot of
weight also. Then, spray on a filler, sand, prime & paint. I know it's
a lot of extra work, but you get a Glasair-like finish."
Other verbage suggests removal of virtually all of the gelcoat before
painting???? I have no idea how valid this is, but thought I'd share it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plastic Sheeting |
<< Up to now I've been using cling film (Reynolds Wrap over here) but its
suddenly dawned on me (ding!) to use black plastic bin liner material.
Its a little thicker, more managable, you can see that you are properly wet
out and you can see what you are doing when cutting them the same width as
the bid tapes. You won't leave any behind on the part either.
I am sure that this has been obvious to everyone else - but just thought
I'd mention it just in case.
>>
Re: cutting plastic to width for bid tapes.
It took a while for me to realize that its much easier to wet out a wide
section of bid on plastic and then cut it into strips along with the plastic.
Avoids those split ends and frayed edges which can be trimmed off and tossed.
Of course, you'll miss the challenge of working with 2" strips of dry bid....
Also, temporarily putting another piece of 4 mil clear plastic on top after
pouring some epoxy on allows working a minimal amount of epoxy in for wet out
without disturbing the weave. It's faster and saves a bit of weight.
John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel-coat discussion |
I would hope that it is *not* Europa's intention that the XS gel coat serve as
the outer finish. I rolled my
fuselage outside for about 3 hours one day to make some room in the shop and it
turned green. Also, although
it certainly is less work to finish than an unfilled glass weave, the coating as
it arrives has many marks,
nicks, holes, and other problems. (Of course, mine had to travel from England to
southern California...)
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin J.Tuck [SMTP:102034.2747(at)compuserve.com]
Subject: Re: Gel-coat discussion
Re: Gel-coat discussion
I'm not sure whether it was Europa Aircraft's intention to suggest leaving
the XS gel-coat unfinished, i.e unpainted. You will still have to join the
fuselage together and fill various bits like the join, around the cowling,
screens etc. which means you will still have to prime and paint it in the
normal way. >
Perhaps I'm missing something here because the gel-coat finish is mentioned
as a feature in the promotional material. I couldn't see any difference
from the original finish in terms of benefit.
Regards >
Martin Tuck >
N152MT >
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Installation |
When the fuel tank is installed in cockpit module is it held in position by
the bid tapes or is it free to move up and down, and forward and aft
between the bulkhead and the ply/glassfibre brackets. Is it desirable to
have the tank held firmly in position or does it float about for a reason.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
The more I read, the more confused I get!
It appears the term "gel-coat" is used in two different ways in different
contexts:
(a) a first layer of resin on a mould, with no glass, to get a smooth
finish on the item being made in the mould
(b) a special type of paint used to get a very good finish, usually on
sailplanes (gliders), but also used on several Europas here in Europe in
place of "normal" paint.
I hope that the comments about poor weathering when referring to (a) are
not also applicable to (b). If so, why do the glider types bother to pay
for this superb finish if it's only going to last 5 minutes?
cheers
Rowland
(aka confused of Cheltenham)
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Whiteley <kenwhit(at)kenwhit.demon.co.uk> |
In message <v03102801b1559035baa6@[195.8.77.235]>, Rowland and Wilma
Carson writes
>
>I hope that the comments about poor weathering when referring to (a) are
>not also applicable to (b). If so, why do the glider types bother to pay
>for this superb finish if it's only going to last 5 minutes?
>
The lifetime of the gel coat of a glider is usually about 15-20 years if
kept in an enclosed trailer. Leaving outside or a lot of high altitude
flights can dramtically reduce this. Owners of glass-fibre gliders after
about this sort of time have to face up to a bill of about 6000 for
resurfacing. As the gel coat is a polyester, don't forget the cautions
which have been quoted before that epoxy can be laid down on polyester
and not vice versa. Despite this gel coats have been used on some
Europas. Not all glass-fibre gliders have gel coats; some are painted on
top of the epoxy. The paint surface tends to be more durable, but
resurfacing may require extra filling to take up the long term shrinkage
which occurs with epoxys.
Ken Whiteley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Here's a poser: I've got a friend working on an electronic constant speed
unit for NSI VP props.
It will work just like a standard CSU when switched on (off will revert to
manual blade pitch control) but it is possible to add some features to
reduce pilot workload and/or save his bacon when he/she cocks it up
-typically opening the throttle before increasing the rpm, sending MP into
the detonation zone.
914's are protected (MP is limited according to rpm via electronic
wastegate control) but 912's and other engines are not.
We have decided to stick to a relatively simple system on cost grounds
-meaning inputs will be limited to throttle position, rpm, and perhaps
manifold pressure for unsophisticated (!) engines.
The question is, what laws govern CSU behavior?
My preference (at the moment) is a very simple system: -"manual" constant
speed setting via a switch on the throttle (just like a prop lever) and two
trip switches at, say, the 20% and 90% throttle positions that will reset
the target rpm to max -so that pushing the throttle forwards will
automatically fine off the prop to reduce the chance of detonation, and
pulling the throttle right back will prepare you for a go-around, and put
the prop in air-brake mode.
It is possible to get more or less sophisticated than this. Any ideas?
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 11/04/98 21:41:40, rowil(at)clara.net writes:
<< The more I read, the more confused I get!
It appears the term "gel-coat" is used in two different ways in different
contexts:
(a) a first layer of resin on a mould, with no glass, to get a smooth
finish on the item being made in the mould
(b) a special type of paint used to get a very good finish, usually on
sailplanes (gliders), but also used on several Europas here in Europe in
place of "normal" paint. >>
Rowland, Schabbellack has been approved by the PFA as an alternative paint
for youropa. we wouldnt be using it otherwise. Just make sure you put enough
on to sand it flat, i've gone through to the filler on one aileron and will
have to paint it again. The finish is good though, especially when polished.
chus, dave
G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Pattinson <carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk> |
Some of you will have read about John Scotts Mod 46 (PFA approved) in
the Europa club magazine.
I just fitted my bits today and as claimed, the actual work involved is
only an hour or two (plus time for the Redux to set). I understand the
record is 40 minutes.
John will supply the bits 20 or will provide details if you prefer. The
inserts are made of alloy and have four grooves to clear the rivets,
though if yours (rivets that is !)arent at 90 degrees you will need to
do some filing. Each insert is supplied with a small self tapping screw
attached to act as a handle which is removed after insertion. Note, the
ones in my picture are alodined - they dont come that way.
For details, contact John Scott, 68 Millend Rd, Cambridge, CB1 4JP.
Tel 0421 736293 (mobile phone no, but not always switched on)
BTW John also has details of an alternative tailwheel assembly (ie- an
improved version of the factory mod) also PFA approved.
Here is a picture of the Mod 46 components - hope you can all unscramble
it !
Attachment converted: R&W LC475:mod46.JPG (JPEG/JVWR) (0000CD5C)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
I've seen a reference recently to testing the Europa, or I suppose any PFA
airplane, at it's Vne in a power dive during the flight testing after
completion.
Can anyone satisfy my curiosity with regard to the complete flight testing
routine prescribed by the PFA?
By the way, thanks Rowland for the information on using wet&dry, wet. I
thought there must be a catch. It was too obvious.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Installation |
Mike,
Before you glass the tank in place be aware that the instructions in the
manual for positioning the tank still refer to the the original sized tank.
The small tank cannot be positioned flush with the base of the cockpit
module, aligned with the bulkhead and still remain clear of the main spar. I
know this to my cost as I spent all of last evening cutting my fuel tank out
of the cockpit module (Dammit!) because I found that it was fouling the spars
- this was despite following the tank installation instructions to the
letter.
add to the manual the following paragraph......
When you put the tank in make sure you have a clear line between the aileron
thrust plate supports, the tank and front layup should not foul the spar
positioning in any way.
I found the glass tape does in fact make a strong bond to the new tank having
now experienced how hard it is to get the stuff off the tank.
It looks like I will be spending the next few evenings sanding back the
layups off my cockpit module before trying again.
Yours, with much muttering
Tony
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fillinger <Fillinger(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 (100hp) |
Tim --
I too would like to know more about the engine choices you cite.
Heard that the 100HP 912 will be available October. I heard also that the
Jabiru
120HP may be displayed at Sun-N-Fun. However, I am suspicious of the Jabiru
on the Europa. At 3300 RPM, it must turn a smaller prop, and on Jabiru's kit
plane, they use a 54". No engineer me, but it seems the size of the Europa
fuselage will guarantee only that such a prop will dry the bugs quickly.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
Readying the old Grumman for S-N-F
On 4/13, you wrote --
>> Interested if anyone knows any further developments with the Rotax 912
>> 100hp engine?
>> I read in Kitplane (April issue-Europa XS big write up) the Jabaru 3300cc
120
>> HP will be available for delivery April 1998. Price $US12,900.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mel Ewing <mele(at)imt.net> |
Well, this is my first posting to the Europa mail list, and I hope it works!
My name is Mel Ewing, Europa Builder #??? (Okay, just give me a few more
years to settle down and then get my Europa!)
I was checking out the new Europa factory home page and was quickly browsing
through the FAQ. Two things caught my attention.
1) They have quit developement on the BMW engine. It seemed like all was
going well the last I checked. Anyone know why the sudden hault?
2) The FAQ stated that because the Jabiru only produced 3300 RPM that it
would require a smaller prop, and would make it unsuitable for the Europa.
This surprised my because the Jabiru is DIRECT DRIVE, no gear box. This is
prop RPM. The prop RPM of the Rotax is the no faster then this. Maybe one of
you high speed pilots with more experience then I have can explain what I am
missing? I was considering the Jabiru over the Rotax because of the lighter
weight and because it did not have to have a reduction gear box that needs
to be over hauled. (One more thing to possibly break!) Any opinions, or
counciling for this young pilot? (me)
Mel Ewing
Future Europa In Montana!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johan <dfjelec(at)iafrica.com> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johan <dfjelec(at)iafrica.com> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan MacFadyean <Halcrow_MRO(at)compuserve.com> |
Rowland and Wilma Carson ,
Message text written by Kenneth Whiteley
>that epoxy can be laid down on polyester
and not vice versa.<
I thought it was the other way about. Also,
"long term shrinkage of epoxy"
I thought this was the other way about too!
Duncan McFadyean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Interested if anyone knows any further developments with the Rotax 912 XX100hp
engine?
I read in Kitplane (April issue-Europa XS big write up)the Jabaru 3300cc 120 HP
will be
available for delivery April 1998. Price $US12,900. Horizontally opposed, overhaed
cam,
6 cylinder; 9.5.1 compression; 150lbs. dry weight complete; carbureted; dual
transistorized magneto ignition, air-cooled. Dynofocal or bed mount,supplied.
Output; 120hp at 3300rpm, torque 125ft-lbs at 3000rpm; dynanometer testing. Warranty
period 6 months from start-up or 200hours.
Also interested in the JPX 4TX75/A. Anybody installed one?
Will be seriously buying at the end of the year, hopefully if our dollar returns
to its
right place!
100hp, I believe will be more suitable for us NZers lying in the westerly wind
belt and
roaring 40s. That extra hps when you need them!!
Good to see Graham S. venture this far down-under, hope NZ treated you well.
Cheers,
Tim
--
Timothy. P. Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
CHRISTCHURCH 1.
NEW ZEALAND
PH 6433515166
Fax 6433515166
Email: ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru question |
>
>>1) They have quit developement on the BMW engine. It seemed like all was
>>going well the last I checked. Anyone know why the sudden hault?
>
>Europa have abandoned the project, but not the firm they contracted to do
the work: they have completed ground testing and are about to fit an example
to an airframe (possibly a factory Europa) for air testing... and quite
possibly the BMW conversion will be offered for sale later this year.
>
>>2) The FAQ stated that because the Jabiru only produced 3300 RPM that it
>>would require a smaller prop
>
>For the monowheel, a slightly smaller prop is no bad thing- it'll improve
ground clearance, but faster turning smaller props tend to be less efficient
than larger slower turning ones. The real question is whether any of the
available (or future) props can be matched to the Jabiru's engine speed and
the Europa's speed range.
>
>Miles
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allen Bishop <bishop(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gowing JR <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: SP Resin Batch ID's - What do the numbers |
represent?
> >G'Day or simply 'Day
> >
> >I imagine I am in the same position as many would be builders. I have
> >completed my test piece OK but have to put Europa activities on hold
> >while I put the house in order first. I remember some discussion of
> >shelf life or epoxy materials (being good until they begin to get lumpy I
> >think). Being concerned about avoiding this state I began putting the SP
> >resin and hardeners in an insulated box to keep temperature even
> >(presently from abt 9 degrees C to sometimes 40 degrees C in my work
> >shed. right now at 11.30am Eastern Summer Time it is 35) and looked at
> >the batch numbering to set them in first made first used order.
> >
> >It seemed to me natural to think the first of the two numbers on the
> >containers was a consecutive batch number and the second which follows
> >the slash the year and month. As an example from my complete airframe
> >epoxy supply, I have a container of resin and two containers of hardners
> >as follows:
> >
> >a container of resin 23"1"680/9607, and
> >Std hardener 23"2"102/9701
> >Slow hardener 23"3"142/9607.
> >
> >So the numbering assumption on std hardener destroyed my assumption.
> >
> >Since the answer to this question should be of interest to many Europa
> >non-builders like me, does anyone already know the answer please?
> >
> >Bob Gowing ( presently non builder of kit No 327)
> >
> >
> >Europa wrote:
>
> Your assumption is correct. The second set of four numbers on the resin and
> hardener is the year and month. SP Systems have now revised the lives on
> both resin and hardener to be 2 years PROVIDED that they have not been opened.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Regards Andy
> >
> >Thank you all who contributed to this discussion -
resin used in UK kits is "SP" made by Structural Polymer Systems Ltd
Tony Krzyzewski got the lives of both resin
and hardener correct at 2 years
Duncan MacFadyean added the bit about
unopened containers will last the 2 years and you can test them by the
squeeze and listen for the air leaks method.
I did the checking today with the result that the 2 containers that
leaked resin also leaked air! Europa has already provided free of cost,
replacements for the 2 leaky containers of resin. All the rest stood the
squeeze test and are now resting an even temperature environment - a
cardboard box lined with reflective insulating foil backed with glass
wool.
I will have to make some progress on the Europa (fin and elevators?) when
my eldest grandsons arrive from the States for a visit in about June but
thanks to you all I can rest assured that the remainder of the resin and
hardeners will last long enough for me to use them.
Sincerely
JR(Bob) Gowing, Kit 327
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Pattinson <carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk> |
Gert Dalgaard wrote:
> Hi Carl
> Saw your mail re. mod.46 and loved the image.
> How did you incorcopate the picture in your mail?
> Regards Gert Dalgaard Sorensen, Denmark
> Europa builder No. 151 (-hope to get flying before Cranefield '98)
Dear Gert,
The picture was taken originally on a Casio digital camera. I then
copied it into my computer and ajusted the size in Adobe Photoshop. I
chose a small image (ie- image size 3" x 2" at 72 dpi). This was saved
in jpg format to further compress the file size down to 5kb of data.
There is no point in sending large files over the internet as it takes
ages and only annoys the recipients due to long download times.
I composed the message in Netscape Navigator and added the saved image
as an attachment. The message was then sent as a normal e-mail.
Normally I would have scanned a photographic print, but a friend loaned
me the digital camera for the week to try out. Quality was not very good
but great for sending e-mails.
I myself am a Professional Photographer and use digital imaging in my
work. We dont normally use digital cameras, but conventional film
photography. We then scan the negatives or transparencies and make
ajustments and corrections to the images before outputting to negative
or transparency again. We do not use digital cameras as yet as the
quality is not yet good enough compared to cost. The average size of an
image that we use is 35mb upwards. Very few digital cameras are capable
of this level of resolution yet and at 35mb per image you need a big
computer/ camera to store the data.
We run a processing laboratory here in England and build my Europa in my
spare time. We already have the registration number, not surprisingly it
is G-LABS.
Best wishes,
Carl Pattinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Whiteley <kenwhit(at)kenwhit.demon.co.uk> |
In message <199804140904_MC2-39D6-B0D3(at)compuserve.com>, Duncan
MacFadyean writes
>I thought it was the other way about. Also,
>
>"long term shrinkage of epoxy"
>I thought this was the other way about too!
There was some discussion about this way back, but I am not well set up
to search all the previous mail of the Europa group. It is a fact that
sailplanes are made by first spraying a coating of gel-coat into the
mould and then laying up the epoxy and glass on top of it. The shrinkage
is a problem that we have with the tailplane of our 20 year old Slingsby
Vega at the moment. Although it doesn't need a gel coat replacement, it
does need filling to restore the original profile.
Ken Whiteley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Whiteley <kenwhit(at)kenwhit.demon.co.uk> |
In message <199804140904_MC2-39D6-B0D3(at)compuserve.com>, Duncan
MacFadyean writes
>I thought it was the other way about. Also,
>
>"long term shrinkage of epoxy"
>I thought this was the other way about too!
There was some discussion about this way back, but I am not well set up
to search all the previous mail of the Europa group. It is a fact that
sailplanes are made by first spraying a coating of gel-coat into the
mould and then laying up the epoxy and glass on top of it. The shrinkage
is a problem that we have with the tailplane of our 20 year old Slingsby
Vega at the moment. Although it doesn't need a gel coat replacement, it
does need filling to restore the original profile.
Ken Whiteley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Wainwright <andreww(at)executek.com> |
Hello,
I've decided to build an Europa, even though this will be
finalized upon a visit to the factory later this year. I currently live
in sunny Arizona, USA with 360 VFR days per year, however will be moving
back to England this August after being away for almost 20 years.
Raised in Yorkshire, it only seems right that I build an Europa XS.
Anyway, my question is: When I arrive in Coventry, England, I'm
going to start looking for a new house. One obvious requirement is
space to build my own Europa. I know the advert says build and store in
a 1 car garage, but when looking at the overall length of the airplane
it seems as if I practically need a 21' long garage (longer than
standard).
I'm going to have help, an uncle and a friend, so at times there
may be three of us in there (though I don't know how practical this will
be for some items.) I was wondering if I could get some inputs on how
much space I really should ensure is available when purchasing my new
home/airplane assembly plant.
Thank you,
Andrew Wainwright
US Private Pilot
Airplane Single & Multi Engine Land
Instrument Airplane, DC-3S
I intend to live forever - so far, so good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert Dalgaard <lgds(at)post6.tele.dk> |
| Subject: | Re: Software / Rotax 914 |
Hello
I am Gert Dalgaard, living in Denmark and building the Europa No. 151.
We hope to get airborne sometime autun '98.
The engine I have chosen, bought and got is the Rotax 914.
When I read the installation manual for the 914 I saw that I need a
piece of software to adjust the engine after installation.
As I write this mail to a lot of fellows who know that money just
disappear very fast when you are building A/C I would like to ask if
somebody could loan me the software?
The part number is "Rotax 966 670"
Another question/same item - do somebody have the software for handling
the data's from the Rdat on a computer?
The partnumber for this is "Rotax 886 990"
Best regards Gert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WmSH <WmSH(at)aol.com> |
Remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. FELL" <jw17(at)dial.pipex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Space required. |
Andrew
I am building Europa 372 a trigear in a single car garage 19 foot by 10
foot. Stage 1 just completed without problem but arrived home with the
fuselage kit last week and space is pretty tight. The top moulding is
currently hanging upside down in the garage where we keep out two cars and I
have the bottom moulding and cockpit module in the single car garage (the
hangar). At the moment I await the end of the rain so that I can get the
mouldings out on the lawn and organise myself in the hangar.
My advice is get the biggest space you can so that you don't have to keep
moving stuff around as I do. 19 foot by 10 foot will only just do.
Good luck with your project
Jim Fell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Space required. |
I'm building Monowheel Europa 303 in an 18'6" by 8' garage. So far so good.
The smaller space is easy to heat, especially in the wet, cold winter when
building is more attractive than being outdoors.
I've built Stage 1 and half of stage2 (wings) so far with no problems but
have a second standard garage on loan to store the fuselage until I'm ready
when I'll swop the wings into it and start on fuselage. Spare Bedroom also
looks like a store room.
I will doubtless need more room to do the rigging bits and also some of the
front end engine bits but, thats way down the line and I'll sort that when I
need to. Convenience of having the workshop on the side of the house with
easy access outweighs the need to have more room, for the moment.
Alan
#303
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Wainwright <andreww(at)executek.com>
Date: 15 April 1998 02:17
Subject: Space required.
>Hello,
> I've decided to build an Europa, even though this will be
>finalized upon a visit to the factory later this year. I currently live
>in sunny Arizona, USA with 360 VFR days per year, however will be moving
>back to England this August after being away for almost 20 years.
>Raised in Yorkshire, it only seems right that I build an Europa XS.
> Anyway, my question is: When I arrive in Coventry, England, I'm
>going to start looking for a new house. One obvious requirement is
>space to build my own Europa. I know the advert says build and store in
>a 1 car garage, but when looking at the overall length of the airplane
>it seems as if I practically need a 21' long garage (longer than
>standard).
> I'm going to have help, an uncle and a friend, so at times there
>may be three of us in there (though I don't know how practical this will
>be for some items.) I was wondering if I could get some inputs on how
>much space I really should ensure is available when purchasing my new
>home/airplane assembly plant.
>
>Thank you,
>Andrew Wainwright
>US Private Pilot
>Airplane Single & Multi Engine Land
>Instrument Airplane, DC-3S
>
>
>I intend to live forever - so far, so good.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David G. Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: Space required. |
We built 'XDY in a single garage 16 ft long by 8ft wide. You do need to be
very organised, and we had a box trailer to store parts in.
The biggest problem was that the fuselage will not fit in with the rudder or
the engine attached, so we left those to the very end.
By that stage we got a bit drastic and knocked the centre of the rear garage
wall out and put some double doors in. This had the added advantage that it
was easier to move the plane into the back garden.
At the end of the day though, the more room you can get, the better.
Dave Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | pa #152 Web Page Update |
Europa #152 Web Page Update
I've just finished updating my Web site which is following the progress of
Europa #152.
It's all getting rather exciting now as the update photo shows the Rotax
912 engine mounted onto the airframe. I waited for the new XS style engine
installation which allows me to incorporate the sleeker cowlings and better
radiator installation (not yet fitted) but has meant delays while all the
bits arrive. Still, should be worth the wait in the long run.
Click on the 'Progress So Far' or 'Photo page' buttons.
The site can be found at:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/mjkt
or through the Europa Website Homebuilder Web page List.
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Graham <jlgraham(at)erols.com> |
Hello to Europa Internet Mailing List... as suggested by the welcoming
message, an introduction is in order: I am Jim Graham, of Fairfax
Station, Virginia, USA. I have had a long interest in the Europa, but
it only became "serious" when I finally realized--with the advent of the
XS--that the Europa probably is the airplane I want to build and fly.
I'm headed off to Sun 'n Fun this coming week, to see the Europa, and I
hope to fly both the original model and the tri-gear, then to make a
decision on which to build, and then place the order. I have been
serious about a GlaStar for over a year, after flying one in Arlington
Washington last year, but I believe I have made the transition to
Europa, for reasons that are probably obvious to most all on this
mailing list. I am a recent private pilot (Feb 98) with about 85 hours
total time, having set the goal to buiold a plane, but first to get my
license, and find a place to build. Steps one and two are now complete,
and I'm off on the third step. I'm hoping to be able to share the
experience and lessons learned of this group as I wade headlong into the
kit. Thanks in advance for any help you can spare to a "new guy." Hope
to see some of you in Florida!!
Jim Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry" <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric CSU laws |
The big problem on constant speed units is to get them stable. Arplast
developed one for their VP prop but I believe it tended to hunt. Too many
variables perhaps. When the pitch changes for example the load on the
engine changes so the mixture changes so the output changes so the prop is
no longer set as it thought it was and so on.
Arplast are looking at a new idea.
The MT controller appears to work satisfactorily suggesting that the
solution does exist.
Jerry
----------
> From: Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk>
> Subject: Electric CSU laws
> Date: 13 April 1998 11:28
>
> Here's a poser: I've got a friend working on an electronic constant speed
> unit for NSI VP props.
>
> It will work just like a standard CSU when switched on (off will revert
to
> manual blade pitch control) but it is possible to add some features to
> reduce pilot workload and/or save his bacon when he/she cocks it up
> -typically opening the throttle before increasing the rpm, sending MP
into
> the detonation zone.
>
> 914's are protected (MP is limited according to rpm via electronic
> wastegate control) but 912's and other engines are not.
>
> We have decided to stick to a relatively simple system on cost grounds
> -meaning inputs will be limited to throttle position, rpm, and perhaps
> manifold pressure for unsophisticated (!) engines.
>
> The question is, what laws govern CSU behavior?
>
> My preference (at the moment) is a very simple system: -"manual" constant
> speed setting via a switch on the throttle (just like a prop lever) and
two
> trip switches at, say, the 20% and 90% throttle positions that will reset
> the target rpm to max -so that pushing the throttle forwards will
> automatically fine off the prop to reduce the chance of detonation, and
> pulling the throttle right back will prepare you for a go-around, and put
> the prop in air-brake mode.
>
> It is possible to get more or less sophisticated than this. Any ideas?
>
> Miles
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DC8dude <DC8dude(at)aol.com> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | consumption rotax 912 |
would it be possible for some of the flying europas with fuel flow meters to
pass on some fuel consumption figures at different rpm/airspeed settings. I'm
interested in 912's with warp drive props, but any engine/prop combination
used so far would be of interest, together with prop settings.
chus, dave
G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
After checking back through some past emails i found a note from Graham S who
also had high water temps to start with. It was apparently cured by diluting
the glycol from 100% to about 70%. Temps came down from 150C to116c in a full
power climb.
chus, dave
G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Introductions... |
Welcome aboard Jim. Good choice. I had the same dilema re Glastar?Europa?
and yes the Europa takes the honours. Its creative and different.
Cheers,
Tim
Mark 1 Builder No. 292
--
Timothy. P. Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
CHRISTCHURCH 1.
NEW ZEALAND
PH 6433515166
Fax 6433515166
Email: ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi dave!
Thanks for your E-Mail.
This is the "solution" to the prpblem. I am now running with about 60% Glycol
and have 100 oil & 100deg water at 75pct power at 15deg ambient.
It seems that after a time 100% Glycol bungs up the radiator tubes.
You can control the water temp with the dilution rate. Rotax like to see 100% as
it has a high boiling temp.
Best regards
Barry
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David G. Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: fuel consumption rotax 912 |
>would it be possible for some of the flying europas with fuel flow meters to
>pass on some fuel consumption figures at different rpm/airspeed settings.
We've been too busy enjoying ourselves to do any difinitive fuel flow tests
with 'XDY (although it is one of my near future plans)
What I can tell you though is that many times in our 75 hours so far I have
checked the fuel consumption between refilling the tank and I keep coming up
with the same figure of 10 litres per hour when flying at between 4500 and
4600 RPM. (That's what I call real economy).
We have seen virtually no oil consumption and in fact no work of any sort
required sinse we started flying, except for Mod 46 and a couple of minor
personal mods (fuel pump warning light etc.).
Dave Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvin Cross <mcross(at)aerodev.com> |
Anyone interested in buying a completed and flying Europa can contact Martin Stoner
or Graham Brunwin at Kemble as they have Four to choose >from :
G-WWWG - 118hp NSI engine, NSI VP Prop, Full panel including Skymap II, Terra
radio, XPNDR and Tri-Nav-C (VOR)
Stunning performance and stunning looks. 43000
G-FLYT - 100hp NSI engine, Full Airways panel fit including Garmin 150, Dual
Terra radios, Terra XPNDR,
Tri-Nav C, Audio panel, Fuel computer, and much more. Full
Leather interior and a First Class paint
Job, makes this one of the nicest Europa's built. Includes
custom built, enclosed alloy trailer with fittings.
G-DAMY - Rotax 912, Narco radio and XPNDR, Vacuum A/H and DI, Audio panel.
Fully trimmed. Flys well.
Includes Europa Trailer. 35000
G-____ - Rotax 912, No further details yet.
All of the above Aircraft include a 5 hour conversion course with Martin Stoner
at Kemble.
The aircraft can be viewed at Kemble by arrangement. Please contact Martin or Graham
for full specifications.
Tel: 01285 770291
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David G. Watts) |
I forgot to mention last night that 'XDY uses a 912 Rotax with a 3 blade
Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees. Besides 10 litres an hour, this
combination gives us a lift off at max gross weight from grass in around 200
yards (@still to measured accurately). Max gross climb has been timed on a
couple of occasions at exactly 1000 fpm. In the near future we will do some
accurate speed checking (now that I have found the static air leak, in the
new ASI connector). When I have the results I will post them here.
Dave Watts.
P.S. Off to Gatwick in an hour going to Sun'n'Fun. Hope some of you will be
there as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric CSU laws |
>The big problem on constant speed units is to get them stable. Arplast
>developed one for their VP prop but I believe it tended to hunt. Too many
>variables perhaps. When the pitch changes for example the load on the
>engine changes so the mixture changes so the output changes so the prop is
>no longer set as it thought it was and so on.
>
>Arplast are looking at a new idea.
>
>The MT controller appears to work satisfactorily suggesting that the
>solution does exist.
>
>Jerry
Used to rent an old Bonanza with and electric propeller. It had
an "auto" mode that was flakey from time to time but quite
manageable in the manual mode. It took a little more fiddling
but we pilots really like all those busy looking knobs to twist
on. If the prop works well as an adjustable device and has
a manual mode, I don't think I'd dicount it's usefulness on the
airplane because the automatic feature leaves something to be
desired . . . see if you can order the thing sans auto-controller.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
________________________________________________________________________________
Remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nick norman <nick.norman(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel consumption rotax 912 |
Our Europa has the same rotax 912 with warp drive prop set at 17
degrees. Although we don't have a fuel flow meter, I can tell you that
we regularly cruise at 5000rpm, giving 120 kts indicated (and confirmed
by the gps) and always fill the fuel right up at the end of the day,
then fill the cans back to full at the garage, so I have a pretty good
idea of the fuel consumption which is 3.6 imperial gallons/hour. If we
mix in a few circuits etc it is more like 3 gallons/hour even though we
still doing quite a bit at 120 kts
cheers
nick norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Janicki" <SJANICKI(at)us.oracle.com> |
| Subject: | oduction and Questions |
Hello, I am new to this group and wanted to introduce myself as well as ask
for advice.
First, I am a fixed wing and helicopter pilot with an ATP in Helicopters and
a
Private/Instrument fixed wing rating. I am also and A&P Mechanic. I have
owned an RV6 and have recently sold it to pursue the building of an airplane
that I can operate more economically and trailer home for storage and
maintenance.
My research has brought me to 2 designs. Both are composit construction,
Rotax Engine powered, removeable wings for trailering, 200 MPH capable. The
designs are the Pulsar III and the Europa XS.
I really like the Europa as it's specifications show it to be a roomier
aircraft with the option to build a child seat in the baggage compartment.
However, what I like about the Pulsar is the 'center stick design'. Similar
to the KR2/Dragon Fly. As I am a Helicopter Pilot I am most comfortable
with
the stick in my right hand the throttle in the left hand.
Has anyone built a Europa with a second throttle on the left hand side
(similar to Falco)?
Can someone please share with me their building/flying experience with the
Europa XS? How has the factory support been? What is the quality of the
components, manuals, fit and finish, anything unexpected?
Thank's in advance for any advice!
Regards,
Steve
The statements and opinions expressed here are my own and
do not necessarily represent those of Oracle Corporation.
When once you have tasted flight,
you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,
for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.
-- Leonardo Da Vinci
Steven B. Janicki
Director Internet/Intranet Services
ORACLE Data Center
Voice (650)506-2740
Fax (650)506-7223
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jef <jef.vervoort(at)sidarfin.be> |
hello
I'm a would be builder in belgium
Are there belgian builders who are willing to communicate with me about their experience;
originally I'm dutch speaking, but french (or english) would do also.
best wishes to you all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | -hand throttle [was: Introduction and Questions] |
>Has anyone built a Europa with a second throttle on the left hand side
Steven - Hello, I'm the membership secretary of the Europa Club.
To my knowledge, kits 017 (Peter Kember, UK), 095 (Ken Whittington, Canada)
& 166 (Kjell Eriksson, Sweden) have been built with left-hand throttles.
Since these have been built in 3 different countries, no doubt they will
have come up with slightly different solutions, and had to work under
different rules/standards imposed by the respective airworthiness
authorities.
Peter & Ken are on-line, so they be lurking on this list and better able to
respond with details.
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fillinger <Fillinger(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction and Questions |
<< Can someone please share with me their building/flying experience with the
Europa XS? How has the factory support been? What is the quality of the
components, manuals, fit and finish, anything unexpected? >>
I am about 50% through the project, and the Europa manual I find is very good.
I am a first-time builder, and you're an A&P, so nothing to worry about. I
can't
rate the quality of materials against other kits, but I have been very pleased
so
far.
Factory support in the U.S. is thru the Lakeland, FL, distributor. Very nice
people there, and very helpful.
>>Has anyone built a Europa with a second throttle on the left hand side
>>(similar to Falco)?
I wanted one too, but I judged that (due to seating position), a left-side
throttle
would be awkwardly positioned. I was also concerned that the Rotax needs
two cables, and with the bend radii necessary for the left-side throttle, the
affair
might be too stiff. Where there's a will, there's a way, I suppose.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger
Mentor, OH, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
I will be using the RMI uENCODER as my altimeter/ROC and as a side benefit it
can provide a gear alarm if the LG is not deployed at a user selectable speed.
I have a sealed microswitch on hand so it would cost little to add this
feature.
Is it appropriate to add a LG alarm or does the lack of pitch change due to
LG/flap deployment provide sufficient warning so that this would be a waste of
effort?
Regards, John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Warning ? |
John,
I am going to use the gear alarm on the RMI as well. There is almost no
effort involved with adding the microswitch and having the warning buzzer is
another check for you.
There have been gear up landings in Europas!!
Tony
------------------------
From: JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com>
Subject: Gear Warning ?
Date: Fri Apr 24 1998 03:27:53 +1200
> I will be using the RMI uENCODER as my altimeter/ROC and as a side benefit
it
> can provide a gear alarm if the LG is not deployed at a user selectable
speed.
> I have a sealed microswitch on hand so it would cost little to add this
> feature.
>
> Is it appropriate to add a LG alarm or does the lack of pitch change due to
> LG/flap deployment provide sufficient warning so that this would be a waste
of
> effort?
>
> Regards, John A044 Newtown, CT
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fillinger <Fillinger(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Warning ? |
On 4/23, John J Moran wrote --
>> Is it appropriate to add a LG alarm or does the lack of pitch change due to
>> LG/flap deployment provide sufficient warning so that this would be a waste
of
>> effort?
John -- as a TriGear builder, this may not even qualify as 2-cents worth, but
you
will find interesting info on two recent Europa accidents involving the gear
not
locked in the down position, on the AAIB (UK's NTSB) web site.
www.open.gov.uk/aaib/bulletin.htm, and click on April.
The accident reports have considerable detail on the incidents, one I believe
citing
that the builder's gear-down switch arrangement did not adequately verify the
thing was fully down.
(Wish the NTSB reporting was as good and timely, too).
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
Mentor, OH, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | All past e-mails! |
> Tony says,
>the files month
> by month. On the site you will also find an application that
>will import all
> of the mail files, combine them into a single database and allow
>you to
> search all of the mail by any key word."
>
>Ah, but how does one get to the Europa Club ftp site? The club's web
>page says to use "ftp.avnet.co.uk", but that never works for me - it
>simply goes to the avnet main page. Could someone possibly update the
>club web page that has online (http) links to archived mail? It has mail
>up through July 1997, all of which I've read. I am on the mailing list
>as of mid-December, but I sure would like to get the missing six months
>of mail, as well as whatever else is there.
>
>
>Attachment Converted: "f:\apps\eudora\attach\REEuropa"
>
In Internet explore at the address line type in
ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa
this will get you into (file transfer protocol) file that are available
from the Europa club site
Regards
Chris
Parts Manager Europa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | landing light options |
In my wandering through various stores I try to be alert
to un-conventional opportunities to apply technology from
other disiplines to airplanes. I have a couple of items
to bring to the attention of my airplane building brothers:
There's an automotive headlamp used on 96 Olds Cutlass
cars that has a very low vertical profile. It's a
halogen lamp totally contained inside a sealed
refelector/lens assembly. It also features a real
connector on the rear for attaching wires. You can
take a peek at one of these lamps at:
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/4352.jpg>
This is a 4352 high beam headlamp assembly. I believe
it's a 55 watt unit but I've not chased down the engineering
data sheets on it. I belive this lamp is an excellent
candidate for leading edge installation on airplanes. It's
rated life should be in excess of 300 hours. While low
in watts, it's a modern automotive design suited to
illuminating the path in front of 65 mph vehicles,
I suspect it's suitable also for landing airplanes at
that speed.
If there's enough interest in this lamp, I could CAD
up a bezel, mouting ring and backplate wiht 4-point
adjuster screws for aiming. I've got access to an NC
machine shop that would give us a pretty good rate on
VERY precisly carved pieces of aluminum.
Saw another interesting lamp. I think it's used in accent
lighting in stores. They have a variety of tracklites
that run on low voltage a.c. The EXH lamp can be
seen at
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/exh.jpg>
This tiny spot light is also 50 watt. It's a halogen
lamp and features a built in reflector. It may be
useful on smaller airplanes with PM alternators.
We've all seen cars on the highway with the new low
temperature discharge lamps . . . the color temperature
of these lamps is up around 4500K (blue white) and they
feature about 3x the light for 2/3 the watts. You can
see some info on these lamps at:
http://www.sylvania.com/prodinfo/auto/arcspecs.htm
Haven't put my hands on one of these yet but given
their size and efficiency, they're attractive for aircraft
applications too.
Dee and I will be attending the RV gathering in Red Wing
MN next weekend. Also, we have a weekend seminar coming
up in Livermore, CA May 16-17. Come see us at either
of these gatherings if you can.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Tauch <et(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intro and landing lights |
Hello Robert and everyone,
I have been "lurking" around out here a while. I guess a short intro is
in order...I am fairly new to homebuilding, and have never built a plane,
but have been actively reading and researching for the past 3 years in
preparation for building. I have pretty much decided on the Europa. I
have never seen one other than in the video and pictures, but am going to
try to make it to Oshkosh this year. I am an engineer (electronics), and
have worked
in wireless telecom for the last 8 years.
I was wondering about strobes and landing lights too. If you put them in
the wings, you will have
to make some sort of electrical connection at rigging. I was thinking
that the monowheel assembly would be the
ideal place for a landing light. Maybe not enough clearance under
there??? More prone to damage in landings?
Anyway, it would avoid wiring power to the wings and maybe less drag under
there behind the cowl.
Does anyone have a kit or completed Europa in the Dallas, TX area I could
look at? My only concern is the size of the plane. I'm thinking it may
be a bit small when I see it in person. I guess this is one of the
penalties for an easily trailerable plane which Is a feature I really
like. The cabin seems plenty big, though.
Also does anyone have any more specifics (web sites?) for the new 100hp
EFI rotax 912?
I have also been wondering about the stressing of composites and the
useful life of the airframe (as well as
inspection of stressed areas).
Any help/comments/pointers greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric Tauch
Plano, Tx, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry" <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Warning ? |
The aux input on the EIS (Engine Information System) could be used in a
similar way if its not be used for fuel level or some other input.
Jerry
----------
> From: JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com>
> Subject: Gear Warning ?
> Date: 23 April 1998 16:27
>
> I will be using the RMI uENCODER as my altimeter/ROC and as a side
benefit it
> can provide a gear alarm if the LG is not deployed at a user selectable
speed.
> I have a sealed microswitch on hand so it would cost little to add this
> feature.
>
> Is it appropriate to add a LG alarm or does the lack of pitch change due
to
> LG/flap deployment provide sufficient warning so that this would be a
waste of
> effort?
>
> Regards, John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
Everyone has different work techniques so it is difficult to predict what
anyone will think is absolutely required in the way of tools for a particular
task. However, the list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've
come up with a more expansive (expensive?) list.
Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow them if
possible.
In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill bits
etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the following:
Tools and gadgets for Europa construction:
Hand Tools:
Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging
Center punch, automatic
Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to
C clamps.
Cold chisel - to cut control cable
Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points
Countersink, 45 degree
Dial caliper - optional but very useful
Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed.
Hacksaw
Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long
Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?)
Hot glue gun
Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level
Long board sander - as used for autobody work
Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?)
Paint pen, optional, available at art stores
Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker
Pad saw (aka back saw)
Pop riveter
Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for
many things including as a mini-squeegee when filling
pinholes.
Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife
trim stage. Many other uses.
Respirator, with activated charcoal filters
Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?)
Scribe, carbide tip
Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler.
Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline
Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful
Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well.
Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc.
Tape measure
Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?)
Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred
Tubing cutter
Utility knife
Wire crimper for electrical terminals
Wood chisel, 1/2"
Power Tools:
Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on
Tufnol. Handy for fitting the footwell floors and fuselage
rear bulkhead too.
Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks
work great for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming.
The drum sanders work well on glass. The wire brush
removes foam and micro from glass prior to bonding.
Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due
to heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll
end up buying a new tool.
Drill press - required
Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save
some time since often one must drill holes and then
enlarge or countersink them.
Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice.
Orbital sander - saves time, not required.
Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill.
Router - handy if you happen to have one
Shop vacuum - required
Things you make
Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so
that it is about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a
nice fillet when applying flox or micro in a corner. Wipe
it off when you're done and re-use. It will last forever,
preserved in epoxy.
Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold
sandpaper worked for me. Used with electric drill to fit
the control stick.
Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued
on using rubber cement.
Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left
over from wing inspection ports instead of plywood - for
flexibility.
Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for
long board sander as found at auto stores.
Shop Aprons
Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and
squeegees. Foam blocks work fine for this.
Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber
cemented to them. Make several with different grits.
Consumables
Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making
more precise patterns than using paper. Can be cut with
scissors. I found this at the local newspaper where they
use the sheets in the printing process.
Fish line
Hot glue sticks
Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
Masking tape
Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware
store. Use for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts
with the sticky nuts.
Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort
Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes,
etc. Also use to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking.
Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper
Sandpaper
Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of
vinyl tubing slipped over the nose to seal to the surface
while injecting. Can often be washed and re-used.
Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go
over them. Use string gloves as liners to absorb
perspiration.
I'm certain some things have been forgotten, plus I'm not done building yet.
Any suggestions for additions to the list?
John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve G." <gopack(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intro and landing lights |
Eric,
Hello from Carrollton. I'm in the final stages of pre-build for my Europa
project, i.e., my wife finally said I can do it :) After a hip replacement
next week and the recovery, I hope to attend the builders' workshop in Georgia
in October, then take delivery of my kit sometime in early January. ( I
promised my wife I wouldn't beg too much to start before then.) I'm going to
take a stab at some of your questions, while looking forward to being roundly
corrected by those more on top of things than I. (Ready, Aim.....)
Having seen the Europa up close (and even flying one at Sun 'n Fun this last
Friday. Wow!), I feel there probably is not enough clearance around the
monowheel assembly for a landing light. Things are pretty close together down
there. Perhaps a fitting around the cowling for the radiator would be
better? Since you're planning on a landing light, are you also thinking of
night operations? If so, you'll still need to wire the wings, but not to
worry. Several builders have done so using various types of quick connect
fittings at the wing root to very good effect.
As far as size of the Europa, it is smaller than your average PA-28, to be
sure. However, if you're planning on carrying two adults, 100 lb. of baggage
and enough fuel for 600+ sm. of flight plus reserves, then the Europa is
plenty big. ( I'm 5' 8" and an uncomfortable 205 lb. and the smaller, original
Europa still fits me fine.) I talked to a lot of people at Lakeland; several
of them thought the Europa was a production airplane and were surprised when I
told them it was a kit, so it definitely doesn't look too small :) The
designer, Ivan Shaw, is around 6' 1" so you know it's not too tight a fit for
most of us.
From what I know about composites, the useful life is high, as long as you
don't overheat the plane and let the epoxy break down. About the only way to
do that is to paint the surface a color other than white (which the FAA won't
let you do, anyway), and leave it out in the summer sun for a while. I
believe you can visually determine a separation of laminates by a change in
appearance of the affected section, but I'll let someone more knowledgeable
give the definitive answer on that one.
There is a Europa builder in Ovilla, down near Lancaster, but I'm afraid I've
lost my list of addresses. Anyone else?
Not being a builder (yet), there are some questions I won't be able to answer,
but if there is anything I can do since we're so close, please let me know.
Welcome to the fold,
Steve Genotte
Carrollton, Texas
Eric Tauch wrote:
> Hello Robert and everyone,
>
> I have been "lurking" around out here a while. I guess a short intro is
> in order...I am fairly new to homebuilding, and have never built a plane,
> but have been actively reading and researching for the past 3 years in
> preparation for building. I have pretty much decided on the Europa. I
> have never seen one other than in the video and pictures, but am going to
> try to make it to Oshkosh this year. I am an engineer (electronics), and
> have worked
> in wireless telecom for the last 8 years.
>
> I was wondering about strobes and landing lights too. If you put them in
> the wings, you will have
> to make some sort of electrical connection at rigging. I was thinking
> that the monowheel assembly would be the
> ideal place for a landing light. Maybe not enough clearance under
> there??? More prone to damage in landings?
> Anyway, it would avoid wiring power to the wings and maybe less drag under
> there behind the cowl.
>
> Does anyone have a kit or completed Europa in the Dallas, TX area I could
> look at? My only concern is the size of the plane. I'm thinking it may
> be a bit small when I see it in person. I guess this is one of the
> penalties for an easily trailerable plane which Is a feature I really
> like. The cabin seems plenty big, though.
>
> Also does anyone have any more specifics (web sites?) for the new 100hp
> EFI rotax 912?
>
> I have also been wondering about the stressing of composites and the
> useful life of the airframe (as well as
> inspection of stressed areas).
>
> Any help/comments/pointers greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Tauch
> Plano, Tx, USA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry" <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
I find the Black and Decker power file is a definate.
Dremel is great for small stuff but the power file is unbeatable.
Does anybody in the UK know where I can get proper crimping tools.
I can only seem to find single action plier types and I want to use plain
connectors that will definately not come off. If you look inside the back
of and consumer goods (washing machine for example) the quality of crimping
is so much better than anything I have managed to date.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos_Morgado(at)dialog.com |
In the UK try Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/ or RS (Radio Spares), I don't
have a contact.
Carlos
jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk on 28/04/98 16:35:06
Subject: Re: Tools
I find the Black and Decker power file is a definate.
Dremel is great for small stuff but the power file is unbeatable.
Does anybody in the UK know where I can get proper crimping tools.
I can only seem to find single action plier types and I want to use plain
connectors that will definately not come off. If you look inside the back
of and consumer goods (washing machine for example) the quality of crimping
is so much better than anything I have managed to date.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
JohnJMoran
>
> Does anybody in the UK know where I can get proper crimping tools.
I suggest that you contact AMP UK. The AMP crimp tool is by far the best and
also has exchangeable heads allowing you to use it for multipole connectors.
I have standardised on AMP Mate-n-lok connectors for all of my multipole
connectors within the aircraft and can use the same tool for these and PIDG
connectors with a simple change of crimp block.
At Sun-n-fun '97 the electrical group tested quite a few crimpers and the AMP
one certainly gave the best results. "Imported" units (read China) gave such
bad results that you wouldn't want to use one anywhere near an aircraft.
Tony
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intro and landing lights |
>Does anyone have a kit or completed Europa in the Dallas, TX area I
could
>look at?
Hello Eric - I'm Membership Secretary
of the Europa Club. The latest info I've got includes the following
kits in Texas:
A023 Ovilla
A038 Vidor
A039 Amarillo
A040 Houston
A050 Houston
A085 Edinburg
It's not good manners to post other folks' addresses or phone numbers
on a
public forum such as this, and anyway I only have permission to release
Europa
Club members' details to other Club members, not publicly.
Check with the Lakeland Europa office to see if those builders are
prepared to
have their address/phone released to you. Some people don't like to
broadcast their address because they don't want to be bothered by
time-wasters who might use up valuable building time - but most Europa
people are friendly towards future builders and should be prepared to
spare
you a reasonable amount of time.
Note that the people with the higher kit numbers may not yet have a
whole
lot of anything that looks like a Europa just yet!
I guess you just missed Sun'n'Fun, but there may also be Europas at
other fly-ins apart from Oshkosh (sorry, EAA Airventure (TM)). Again,
the Lakeland office may be able to help if there is going to be any
official presence at other shows.
cheers
Rowland
PS let me know if you want info on the Europa Club, which is for
wannabees as well as builders & flyers.
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kerry Lamb" <kerry.lamb(at)mindspring.com> |
As far as crimping is concerned you might want to get in touch with someone
who builds sailboat masts. I can recall using a tool some years ago that
did a fine job of crimping ends on the stainless wire we used. If I am not
mistaken the tool was WWII surplus for aircraft rigging.
Even if they don't have that nice a tool they have to have something that is
effective and frequently used. The loads a mast carries are much higher
than you might think.
Kerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 5:49 AM
Subject: Re: Tools
>I find the Black and Decker power file is a definate.
>Dremel is great for small stuff but the power file is unbeatable.
>
>Does anybody in the UK know where I can get proper crimping tools.
>I can only seem to find single action plier types and I want to use plain
>connectors that will definately not come off. If you look inside the back
>of and consumer goods (washing machine for example) the quality of crimping
>is so much better than anything I have managed to date.
>
>Jerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gowing JR <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | be connections - electric or glass fibres |
'Day All
reference Eric Tauch's remarks ---
>" I was wondering about strobes and landing lights too. If you put them in
> the wings, you will have
> to make some sort of electrical connection at rigging. I was thinking
> that the monowheel assembly would be the
> ideal place for a landing light. Maybe not enough clearance under
> there??? More prone to damage in landings?
> Anyway, it would avoid wiring power to the wings and maybe less drag under
> there behind the cowl."
>
Glass fibres are used in fail safe situations like road line markings
where a group of bulbs may be used in one place (so that failure of one
will not affect the light source much) and the light transfered to
various places on the road surface through bundled glass fibres.
Has anyone thought of using such a system for strobe lights? Say two
sources or one source with two bulbs and glass delivery to wingtips and
rear fuselage or fin delivery points?
Bob Gowing, presently non builder of kit 327
________________________________________________________________________________
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
About a year ago last February, an FAA FSDO inspector in
Alaska filed a suspected unapproved parts action against
Bill Bainbridge at B&C Specialty Products for violation
of 21.303(a) which prohibits offering a non-PMA part for
installation on a certified airplane.
Bill was approached by authorities from FAA at Sun-N-Fun
last week and was told, "All charges have been dropped,
an APOLOGY letter is being crafted, and policies and
procedures are being written to see that things like this
do not happen again.
I just had a long conversation with Bill and he sounds like a
huge load has been removed from his shoulders. This is all
preliminary but his conversations were first person with
folks at the top.
We'll be publishing copies of the documents as soon as they
are available along with a chronolgy of events in this
matter on our website. We'll let you all know when the
data is available for viewing. I hope I'm not beeing TOO
optimistic but this series of events may mark a turning
point in the relationship between our public servants and
those they purport to serve.
Today has been a good day.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pepeborja <Pepeborja(at)aol.com> |
I own a Challenger II microlight and I'm in the process of narrowing down my
next
choice to either the Europa SX or Vans RV6A (all metal airplane). So far, the
Europa is on top because of two reasons: Design and operational costs. Right
now,
I'm waiting to go to Lakeland, Florida for a demo ride and sign the check
(provided my
war department gives me the go ahead).
#1. The guys that are wondering about trim stripes. When I finished my
Challenger,
it was all white and it did not have any trim on it. One day, I went
into a Pep Boys
(auto parts store) and saw decals for decorating Pick Up trucks. For
$50 bucks,
I was able to add some unique looking decals which have received many
compliments
from fellow flyers. My decals look like flying ribbons, but after
staring at them for a
few seconds, you can see the shape of a woman laying down on her side.
It's an
inexpensive option, which you may want to consider.
#2. For Carmen, wondering about private airstrips. Here in the United
States, you can
have an airstrip in your land as long as it does not create a hazard to
existing airports,
structures, or neighbors. In my case, I live in Elk Mound, Wisconsin,
where I bought
13 acres 2 years ago. I built my house on it and made two landing
strips (950 and
600 feet). I'm finishing my workshop/hangar combo and I'm very eager
to start
building the Europa very soon. I believe the FAR's establish that you
don't have to register
the strip as longs as it remains private and you don't want it shown in
sectional charts.
Good luck to you all and I look forward to lay my building paws on what I hope
will be the
first Europa built in cheesehead country (Packer land for American Football
fans).
Jose Borja (Mexicano by birth, removed from his motherland by his war
department and
relocated to the frozen tundra of Wisconsin)
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Folks!
Can any of you super engineer out there help me with a little problem?
After hours flying (enjoyable since the tail wheel mod) I have an apparent
sudden increase in water temperature.
The water seems to warm up quicker than usual and I cannot reach 1000 ft AGL
because the water is then on the red line. Oil temp is then still quite low at
80deg. Reducing power to 4000 rpm brings the water down to 125C.
I have drained the cooling system, removed the cover and checked the water pump
and re-filled carefully to ensure there is no air in the system. It is still the
same.
I had the panel out on the weekend, before this problem appeared, to change the
software in my skymap. I do not know exactly how the VDO temperature gauges
work. Can it be that the gauge will act normal but read high if I have disturbed
a connection?
You all know what a pain in the backside it is to take the panel out so I was
wondering if anyone knows enough about this type of problem or has had a similar
experience.
Thanks in advance.
Best to you all
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling, Sanding |
>Has anyone used wet & dry silicon carbide paper, wetted with soapy water,
>for sanding after filling in order to keep the dust down?
>
>Is there any reason for not doing so?
Dennis - I seem to remember that at one of the seminars, a presenter who
seemed to know what he was talking about (maybe Gary McKirdy?) said that
although using wet'n'dry wet was good to keep down the dust, it had bad
side-effects on the surface being worked on. I'll need to do a bit of
searching to check up on this (don't need to know in the immediate future!)
but in the meantime someone else who was at that seminar might remember? I
think it caused some sort of finish problem. It was something to do with
the water getting into the pores of the surface, and was not a problem for
car-type finishing, only in the aeroplane scenario. Or maybe it was OK on
metal, but not on composites - at any rate, what I took on board was that
despite the apparently convenient way to improve comfort & ensure health,
it was a BAD THING for Europa builders to do.
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Europa FAQ version 4, last modified 31 March 1998
This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa e-mail
list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed by Ivan Shaw
(with a little help from Don Dykins).
=46AQ maintained at present by:
Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro & the Europa community]
rowil(at)clara.net
Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time.
Questions answered (* changed since last version):
0 How do I get a copy of this FAQ?
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
* 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
* 6 How do I join the Europa Club?
7 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
8 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
9 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
10 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
11 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
12 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
13 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
14 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
15 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
16 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
17 What tools will I need to build a Europa and what will they cost?
18 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
19 How will I know I've built it right?
20 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
* 21 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
* 23 What engines are available for the Europa?
24 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
25 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
0 How do I get a copy of this FAQ?
-------------------------------------
This FAQ is posted during the first week of each month to the Europa e-mail
list (starting January 1998).
Previous postings are available by searching the Avnet archives for a
subject line containing "FAQ".
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
New items, and correction or enhancement of existing items are welcome.
Send your suggestion in e-mail to the FAQ maintainer (see above).
Submissions most likely to be incorporated will have similar formatting to
the existing FAQ, and display accuracy in spelling, grammar, and syntax.
The ultimate deciding factor, however, will be the quality and relevancy of
the information. The maintainer reserves the right to edit for brevity,
clarity or humour.
2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
------------------------------------------
You can subscribe automatically by sending an e-mail message to
. The subject is not important but the body of
the message should include the following command:
subscribe europa
You will then receive all future contributions to the list.
* 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
---------------------------------------------
To remove yourself from the Europa mailing list, send the following command
in email to :
unsubscribe
Please note that all commands (including subscribe and unsubscribe) to the
server which runs the Europa e-mail list must be addressed to the server,
NOT the list address where the discussion goes on. Doing that will make you
look careless, forgetful, or incapable of following simple instructions
(and you need to follow a lot of instructions to build an aeroplane).
address which is different to one you originally subscribed on, the server
will not be able to deal with your request. If your e-mail address changes,
unsubscribe using the old account, then subscribe using the new one.
4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
You forgot to choose "reply-to-all". Most email clients allow this as an
option when creating a reply, and some (like Eudora) can be set to have
that behaviour as default. Once the "to" header line has been created,
please remove the original sender's name from it, leaving just the
part. If you don't remove it, the original sender will
get your reply twice & wonder why you're repeating yourself.
You might ask why such an apparently inconvenient procedure is necessary.
When the Europa e-mail list was set up, the list server (which administers
it all) was indeed configured to make the "reply-to" field in the message
headers the same as the list address. This was very convenient for users,
as any reply was automatically posted for all to see. Of course, it also
sometimes caused embarrassment when folk forgot to change the "to" line in
their header when composing a reply meant to be read by the sender only.
However, much worse could happen when ill-configured or ill-designed e-mail
software interacted with list traffic. It could happen that such a system
immediately replied to every list message received by it, thus generating
another list message, which was again replied to, etc, etc, ad infinitum,
thus clogging up the list server and its communication ports with
ever-multiplying traffic. Such "mail loops" cannot arise if the "reply-to"
field is not set to the list address. To protect the list, and the
integrity of all Avnet's operations, this change was made in February 1998.
5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
The person who replied to your posting forgot to remove your personal email
address after choosing the "reply-to-all" option (so that the reply would
go to the Europa list). If the original sender's name is not removed from
the "to" field in the header, (leaving just the part),
the original sender will receive the reply twice - once direct and once via
the list.
See the answer to the previous question to understand why such an
apparently inconvenient arrangement is necessary.
* 6 How do I join the Europa Club?
-----------------------------------
Contact the Membership Secretary for full information. At present the
Membership Secretary is:
Rowland Carson
4 Saville Close
CHELTENHAM
Gloucestershire
England
GL50 4NE
7 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
The Europa factory puts out a newsletter from time to time, a subscription
to which is mandatory for all builders. Those not yet building can also
subscribe, but will not receive the inserts with details of modifications,
etc, which go only to builders. Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Aviation"
at the office in either Yorkshire, England or Florida, USA depending on
your own location.
The Europa Club puts out a newsletter (The Europa Flyer) four times a year
(Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec) to all paid-up Europa Club members. Subscriptions are
paid to "Europa Club". The Club and its newsletter is not connected with
the Europa factory or its newsletter.
The Europa e-mail list on the internet is open to anyone to join. There is
no charge. Like most things on the internet, it is not controlled by
anyone. Neither Europa Aviation nor the Europa Club have any power over
what goes on there, although representatives from both take part from time
to time. It's simply a forum for discussion among Europa enthusiasts. Many
of the useful nuggets of information appearing there are reproduced in the
Europa Club newsletter. The list was set up by and is still maintained by,
a Europa Club member, in the time left over from bringing up a family,
earning a living, and building a Europa.
Both the Europa Club and Europa Aviation have World Wide Web sites, and
they are linked together. The Club pages provide access to the archives of
the Europa e-mail list, and some past copies of the FACTORY newsletter, but
NOT the CLUB newsletter.
8 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft organisation, and you can get help
and advice by joining. In UK, it's the Popular Flying Organisation (PFA)
with local Struts. In USA, it's the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA)
with local Chapters. In France, it's RSA.
9 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA, etc).
The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA. If you
live elsewhere, things may be different.
Several books are available on the subject.
Allan J Hall said:
My vote for most useful books would be:
Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis
=46irewall Forward - Tony Bingelis
Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue
Jim Campbell said:
Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740 pages
detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits as well as
over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic composite
construction technigues to test flying and dealing with the Feds...
US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881.
1-800-356-7767
Rowland Carson said:
I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your Homebuilt
=8B the one you=B9ll finish Kitplane Construction
by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack
Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft
Construction by Burt Rutan. All except the last are available from the PFA
bookshop. I can=B9t understand why they don=B9t do the Rutan one =8B I got mine
from Aircraft Spruce, who also do a kit of materials to go with it, so you
can try out the techniques on a small scale.
10 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some countries
will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility that you spend
several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then find that:
you have some subtle medical condition that prevents issue of a
flight medical
you spent so much on building the plane you have no funds left to pay
for training
you don't really like flying in a small plane
you just don't seem to have an aptitude for controlling a plane
OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but maybe
you might have chosen to use your time differently had you known in advance.
11 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
No. The Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license. It is too big,
fast, and heavy to be classed as an ultralight or microlight. The rules
defining microlights are slightly different in different countries, but the
Europa would not meet any of them. As far as formal pilot qualifications
are concerned, it's in the same category as a Cessna 150. However, since
(in its most popular configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger, your
flight safety will be greatly enhanced by having some prior taildragger
experience, and even more by getting some training on the Europa itself
from a pilot experienced on type before you launch solo.
12 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
-----------------------------------
The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's built one
and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that someone who has
developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling and cannot complete
the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit.
Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of general
pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in the magazines
of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular Flying" & EAA's "Sport
Aviaton"). You can also find them in a Europa-specific forum such as the
Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the Europa internet e-mail list.
You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else build
an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the CAA and the
=46AA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain specialist jobs (eg
painting, avionics installation) being done by others, but you should be
prepared to prove that you have done the bulk of the building yourself.
13 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit:
With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know of is
just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500.
Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete from
Europa Club members:
900
1200
1500+
1580
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000+
2300
2400
2400
2500
2500
~2800
2900
2900
3000
3000+
Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working)
builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with on
first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a concours-winner "show
plane" - or even all of the above!
14 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------------
John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995:
Kit delivered 19250
Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given)
Rotax 914 12500
prop 1500
Inst/avionics 10000
Upholst/paint 1000
-----
Total 45000
Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995:
Type: Item: Total (incl VAT):
Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75
Stage 2 wings 4,641.25
Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50
Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00
Fitting kit 2,937.50
overflow bottle 39.95
rectifier/regulator 41.13
slipper clutch 323.13
vacuum pump 675.63
Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50
Instruments altimeter 199.75
air speed 141.00
vertical speed 129.25
turn and slip 282.00
gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10
directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30
standby compass 70.50
Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42
Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25
Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13
Terra height encoder 207.48
Antenna kit 17.63
GPS 705.00
Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75
navigation lights 176.25
strobe 229.13
landing light 0.00
intercom 30.55
=46inish paint 587.50
paint labor 2,750.00
interior trim 587.50
Trailer 1,568.63
workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76
Total: 42,355.69
my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00
Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69
In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds):
Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500
Rotax engine kit # 9,000
Average Instrument Fit # 3,000
(ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches)
Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500
Paint and misc parts # 1,000
Registration & test flying # 1,000
Value Added Tax # 4,725
This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no
professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality will end
up spending nearer 35 - 40,000.
I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay your
hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the region of
1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year
In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia:
The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then
you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs
clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its
insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a quote from
Europa for a part share in a container for any future stages I may choose
to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me $6000.00 approx (2900.00
Pounds).
A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds
Packing 40.00
Crating 115.00
Insurance 16.00
Delivery approx 423.00
=46uselage Kit 5200.00
Packing 60.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 21.00
Delivery 696.00
If both purchased together
Wing kit 3800.00
=46use " 5200.00
Packing 100.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 1078.00
If both were sent in a container
Wing kit 3800.00
=46use " 5200.00
Packing 160.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 700.00
15 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when he got
his Europa built back in New Zealand, so when he visited the factory, he
brought a tape measure:
The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at
Kirbymoorside, are as follows.....
Height 84 inches 214 cm
Width 81 inches 206 cm
Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm
16 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
No. There are several other designs of trailer available in UK, including
several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade Trailers, and
Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa Flyer at various
times. You can also design and build your own, as described in Europa Flyer
#12.
17 What tools will I need to build a Europa and what will they cost?
Dremel tool
Scissors
Razor saw
Digital level
Resin balance
Perma-Grit abrasive materials
18 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average
handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or at
least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official reasons
given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is "education". Few
people who have not previously built a foam & glass aeroplane will be
familiar with the techniques, but most will reach an acceptable standard
after some small practice pieces.
19 How will I know I've built it right?
-----------------------------------------
Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical
Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable
standard - may even help you do some things first time around!
You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to make & keep
small samples of each batch of layup that you do, which can be tested to
destruction as proof of strength.
20 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
----------------------------------------------------
Graham Singleton said:
Burt Rutan described the best check I know.
6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface. Squeegee
out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in. If too much
pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres relax. Allow to cure,
cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and weigh. 297 gms is a bit light
and might have air voids. 310 gms is perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your
aircraft was built to this ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40
lbs overweight. (18 Kgs if you must )
* 21 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
-------------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system causes
least reaction:
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less prone to
provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was allergic to that too.
Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am I allergic to Redux. It's a
matter of personal chemistry, so buy a small amount and try it before
commiting. For me, a respirator wasn't sufficient so I had to get a
Hobbyair to allow work to continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the hardner.
Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's personal
reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to Aeropoxy that a
couple hours in the garage with the wings which had cured for over three
weeks would cause a major reaction, so apparently the amines out-gas for
quite a while. Touching the cured wings also caused serious problems.
Washing the cured parts with a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water -
required before filling anyway - eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to the
gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an epoxy allergy
since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously. Avoid gloves which
use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely to provoke an allergy
and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile gloves are a good alternative.
Use string gloves as a liner to minimize softening of the skin due to sweat
since this increases absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the
latex gloves when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally
impermeable to epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves
when exposed to wet epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is
prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some become
so sensitive that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is the
ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but they have
delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So, as an aircraft
builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the US, you deal with
the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the aircraft for flight. In
UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but rather a "Permit to Fly", similar
to that issued for a manufacturer's prototype. In USA, they are issued a C
of A in the "Experimental" category.
In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an inspector
appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections, the aircraft
will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of the building process,
preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical Counselor" is required in USA.
Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority must
be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable standard of
workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the builder (ie not built
by a "hired gun") and that it matches the design to agreed tolerances. Any
modifications made by the builder must also be approved.
The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about the
UK paperwork requirements.
* 23 What engines are available for the Europa?
-----------------------------------------------
Rotax 912 (flying)
Rotax 914 (flying)
Subaru (flying)
Mid-West rotary (has flown in at least 2 Europas)
Jabiru 4-cylinder (flying in Jabiru; Europa installation under development)
Jabiru 6-cylinder (engine under development)
BMW RS1100 (Europa conversion and installation under development)
Some of these engines are more "available" than others; but Europas are
already flying with some of these engines. The others are still at the
development stage.
24 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the useable internal
width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed.
Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great outdoors
(freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping the rudder
pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about shoulder room.
Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider what
it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less roomy for the
very tall than some of the other kits (such as the Glastar) but then it has
many other advantages over these, such as fuel economy and all-round
elegance. It is much roomier than some of the more direct competition such
as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I believe) and designed it to be
comfortable for him.
The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you have
a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase this (one UK
builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a substantial modification
which could provide the answer). If you have any doubts then find a
finished example and try at least to have a long "sit" - whilst making the
obligatory "brrmming" noises of course.
At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort during
long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of work.
The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a visit
and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder left convinced
that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as to how he must have
been proportioned!
25 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa is
capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up. The snag,
as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right and you have
failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for error and, at a
certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are committed and there is
no room to change your mind.
Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that there
is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never need that room
- but ... but ... but ... but ...
My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I would
be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields.
=2E.. that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
europa(at)avnet.co.uk
I am still not decided about engines. I did talk to Skydrive again today
who seemed prepared to throw in a free Vac Pump or something. I guess
whilst the pound stays strong they can afford to give something away.
jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Bill.
I received my Europa Flyer and enjoyed your article.
I hope to fly my Europa back to Wales over Easter (to Cardiff, as I am originaly
from Newport), if the weather is suitable.
It would be great to get a chance to have a look at the NSI prop instalation and
perhaps try it out.
Perhaps you could send me your E-Mail address.
Best regards
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
Posting Message test?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | id Devices Wing Leveller |
I understand that the Navaid Devices Wing Leveller has already been fitted
by one or two builders. Would someone be kind enough to let me have their
installation details and if possible the PFA Modification approval details.
Does Navaid Devices have any future plans for a altitude hold as well?
Many thanks,
Mike Parkin (No 312, G-JULZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MELVYNBS <MELVYNBS(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Europa_Mail:Kitplane Magazine Cover and story |
Europa XS
From: MELVYNBS <MELVYNBS(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa_Mail:Kitplane Magazine Cover and story
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 19:22:59 EST
Peter Underhill does the cover story for the Europa TurboXS (Which has
more stars affixed to it than the Hubble telescope could handle---120?)
KITPLANE. Six pages and seven photos including a cover shot by Keith
Wilson of G-EUXS, G-PYTE, and G-RONA (return on net assets?) in a
Blue Angels style tight formation. Other pixs include a great interior
of the cockpit and instrumentation,also the new tailwheel design get a
great detailed close-up. Story says that 500 kits have been sold with
over 60 Europas already on the wing. Lands slow, flies fast, goes a long
way on a tank of fuel and builds quickly Underhill reports. Covers the engine
alternatives thoroughly. How to do a four point roll? Whap, stop, whap, stop,
whap, stop, whap, stop, whap, stop! All this while Karen Carpenter sings
we've only just begun! -Kitplanes April 1998 issue pages 10-18. Enjoy! See
you
at Fun 'n Sun. Maybe THIS year I'll get to ride in a Europa, eh Mr. Shaw?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Pattinson <carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk> |
| Subject: | 46 - possible fix. |
Ever since the question of Mod 46 reared its ugly head I have been
trying to come up with a simpler solution.
One of my early ideas was to support the fuselage on its side, remove
the tube supporting end brackets and then to pour a Redux/ flox mix into
the end caps, thereby filling them. Each side of the tube would have to
be done separately, allowing time for the adhesive to set. Clearly it
would be impractical to do this on airframes with engines but those in
mid-production could qualify for this treatment.
I originally discarded this idea as not an engineering solution and also
because it would not be possible to guarantee a permanent bond between
the Redux and the metal. However, having discussed the reasons for the
failures and the stresses involved with my mate Ron Swinden, it seems
likely that this idea might work.
Filling the end caps with a solid material would prevent the flexing
which causes the steel caps to crack. Since the solid Redux block is
retained by the rivets which secure the cups to the tube there is no
need to worry about adhesion. In theory there is a difference between
the expansion of the steel and the Redux but as Redux is somewhat
elastic (its full of rubber and glass balls !) this should not become a
problem.
If this could work it would certainly eliminate a lot of hassle and sore
hands !
I would welcome some constructive comments on this idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nick norman <nick.norman(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | oduction & engine problem |
Hello All!
I am new to this mailing list and to the Europa having been asked by a
work collegue to fly and share the running costs of his Europa G-EIKY.
It is based at Insch airstrip near Aberdeen, Scotland. We are commercial
helicopter pilots and fly offshore oil support in the North Sea. I also
do a lot of gliding and have flown a couple of hundred hours on the
Falke type motorgliders with central mainwheel, outriggers and tailwheel
(familiar configuration!). I must say that I found the Europa a bit of a
handful during takeoff and landing but a delight otherwise. I suppose it
is just like the motorgliders but everything happens 4 times as fast!
Now I have got about 9 hours on it, I am reaonably happy!
It does however have a little engine problem which I have been trying to
tackle. Can I bore everybody with a lot of background and then ask a
couple of questions? BTW I was an electronic engineer before going
commercial pilot so I know a bit about that sort of thing and also have
always done my own maintenance on my cars and motorcycles and am
BGA-approved to work on motorglider engines.
The engine is a Rotax 912 with warp drive prop. It has the mod for the
cold air box/inlet on top of the cowling. I have experienced carb icing
with this mod, but the effect I am describing is not carb icing. It
starts instantly, and is generally very smooth and never misses a beat
at full power.
However in the cruise (5000 @ 120kts) it just very occasionally runs
rough for maybe half a second. Just long enough to attract attention!
You can really feel it through the pedals, especially. The other thing
is that during the mag drop checks, it is right on the limit on the left
mag and the drop difference is also right on the limit. More to the
point it is just downright rough on the left mag, but sweet as anything
on the right mag. Of course we replaced all the plugs, even though only
25 hours on the engine, but no difference. In the cruise, if I go onto
the left mag it is even more rough, although no massive rev drop, but
smooth as anything on the right mag. On the ground, on the left mag it
is perfect up to 3200 rpm and at that exact rpm the roughness comes in
suddenly and remains until nearly full throttle.
Because it was different on the 2 mags I started with the assumption
that it was something in the ignition system. I started by swapping the
following (one at a time) to the other side: Magneto switches, pickup
coils, generator coils. Nothing wrong with those. Then I swapped all the
coils over with the black boxes, and the fault changed sides, i.e.
nothing wrong with the black boxes but something wrong with the coils or
something "downstream" of them.
Having traced which 2 coils were on the faulty side, I swapped one of
them with the equivalent coil on the other side. No difference. But when
I swapped the other 2 coils, the fault changed sides so I had identified
which coil was faulty (I thought!). To check that it wasn't a fault in
the ht leads or plug caps, these were temporarily replaced with car
stuff but no difference. So I was very confident that it was the coil
itself, even though the resistances etc checked out. It must be some
vibration effect I thought. Today we fitted the new coil (costing the
owner around 150) but to my amazement no difference!
I ran through the diagnosis again but still the same conclusion that it
is something in that coil or downstream of the coil. I am now thinking
that "downsteam of the coil" could include something in the cylinder
itself!
That coil runs the rear two cyclinders' top plugs. The engine runs fine
when the bottom 2 plugs only are firing, but not when the top 2 only are
firing. Could there be some marginal mixture problem and non-uniform
distribution of the fuel within the cylinder caused by, perhaps, an air
leak? Sounds most unlikely, doesn't it, but that is what the test
results point to. (BTW the plugs all look much the same colour). Today
it was bucketing down with horizontal rain so we gave up in disgust
after lunch. I think the next step will be to swap top and bottom leads
so that the same ignition circuit is feeding the other plug, to see what
happens (will have to lengthen the upper ht leads temporarily I
suppose).
Sorry that this posting is so long!! Can I ask 2 questions:
1. Anybody got any ideas???
2. Does your Rotax 912 engine generally run noticeably rougher on one
magneto than the other during the mag checks - is the mag drop
difference near the limit? - and do you have the cold air box mod?
(answers yes or no would both be useful!)
Thankyou for persevering with this posting, any help much appreciated.
Nick Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nick norman <nick.norman(at)virgin.net> |
sorry - test posting only!
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
Sometime ago there was some discussion about HVLP paint systems for
painting Europas. James Thursby provided information on the subject and
I've also had some discussions with Graham (Gamin) about it. As I'm soon
going to have to decide how to go about this painting operation, I was
wondering if there's any other experience out there about 'painting it
yourself' (even if its only to say DON'T) and especially about HVLP
systems.
I suppose that most people will opt to have a professional do the painting,
but there may also be some points in favour of doing it yourself, not the
least of which most kitplane builders are do-it-yourselfers by nature. But
of course the paint job is the area where the quality of the workmanship
becomes REALLY visible and its not worth devaluing 000s of hours of work
and 000s of Euros of investment with a shoddy paint job. But, I've been
reading with interest Ron Alexander's articles in Sport Aviation on spray
painting -- his opinion is that builders of average skill can achieve
really good results provided they use the right equipment and take their
time (which is what the professionals usually don't have). By 'right
equipment', he means HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray systems which
eliminate the high capital outlay and the complexity of conventional
compressor-based systems.
I have done a bit of research and found that Fastech have a product with
combined HVLP paint system and breathing apparatus for around US$800, which
I think is less than a professional would charge to do the job.
The question is: does anyone have any experience with these things? any
recommendations? how many others have taken the DIY option?
Graeme Smith
Graeme Smith Phone: +49 (0)6301 71 22 12
Q-Labs Software Engineering GmbH, Fax: +49 (0)6301 71 22 99
Technopark I, Mobile: +49 172 205 27 02
Sauerwiesen 2, Siegelbach Email: Graeme.Smith@q-labs.de
D-67661 Kaiserslautern, WWW: http://www.q-labs.de
GERMANY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pepeborja <Pepeborja(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Paint Sytem experience |
I used an HVLP to paint my first airplane back in 1994. I bought it at a DIY
store name Home Depot in Dallas, Texas. The price, US$289.00 for a Campbell-
Hausfield HVLP paint system, complete with a spray gun and 15' hose.
Needless to say, the system worked great for a guy that only painted lawn
furniture with spray cans before. I would say the main difference between an
amateur and a professional is having the right space to paint. My paint job
has been judged by many as good but I can tell where the mistakes are. I can
say that the mistakes were due to not having the right paint boot, as opposed
to technique. Next time, I'll spend more time building the paint boot and
jigs to set the wings and body.
Best of luck,
Jose Borja
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mod 46 - possible fix. |
Carl,
this would probably work, as you say, for those aircraft that have'nt flown
yet. Those that are flying could possibly be suffering fatigue in the end
caps, and I would rather do the mod as it is if i woz flying...(soon, maybe..)
however, i carried out the mod as described in the later sheets (no extra
holes required) and found it straightforward, and no real problems at all.
Heat gun melted the glue, and able to use the original rivet holes.
chus, dave
kit67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint systems |
paint it yourself, unless you have over GBP10,000 to give to someone else to
fill, sand and spray your pride and joy. probably a bit cheaper if you fill
and sand it first, but 'professional' sprayers will slap more paint on until
they get the finish they are happy with. I know of one europa that was sprayed
by aircraft (actually RAF) painters. Super finish, but each wing weighed about
15 to 20 lb extra, and in the end the builder spent many hours sanding off the
excess weight! His problem was that he didnt have a couple of RB199's pushing
his europa around....
A guy in one of the Europa club magazines (issue 9, june 96) described a paint
system used on gliders, called Schwabbellack, which is very hard wearing and
durable. I decided to use it in the end. The finish does not depend on how you
spray it on (just using a medium compressor and cheap spray gun), but on what
you sand off when flatted down with 400/600/1000 wet and dry, used wet. I am
very pleased with my initial efforts, would hate to think what sort of mess i
would have made with the standard aircraft paints.
chus, dave
kit67 and now G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
| Subject: | HVLP paint systems |
Is Schwabbelack available in anything other than white? I'd like to
color the bottom of my Europa. Also, does anyone know of a source in the
United States?
Thanks,
David
A071
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DaveBuzz [SMTP:DaveBuzz(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 06, 1998 14:40
> To: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
> Subject: Re: HVLP paint systems
>
> paint it yourself, unless you have over GBP10,000 to give to someone
> else to
> fill, sand and spray your pride and joy. probably a bit cheaper if you
> fill
> and sand it first, but 'professional' sprayers will slap more paint on
> until
> they get the finish they are happy with. I know of one europa that was
> sprayed
> by aircraft (actually RAF) painters. Super finish, but each wing
> weighed about
> 15 to 20 lb extra, and in the end the builder spent many hours sanding
> off the
> excess weight! His problem was that he didnt have a couple of RB199's
> pushing
> his europa around....
>
> A guy in one of the Europa club magazines (issue 9, june 96) described
> a paint
> system used on gliders, called Schwabbellack, which is very hard
> wearing and
> durable. I decided to use it in the end. The finish does not depend on
> how you
> spray it on (just using a medium compressor and cheap spray gun), but
> on what
> you sand off when flatted down with 400/600/1000 wet and dry, used
> wet. I am
> very pleased with my initial efforts, would hate to think what sort of
> mess i
> would have made with the standard aircraft paints.
>
> chus, dave
> kit67 and now G-BXUM
Is Schwabbelack available in anything other than white? I'd like to color the bottom
of my Europa. Also, does anyone know of a source in the United States?
Thanks,
David
A071
-----Original Message-----
From: DaveBuzz [SMTP:DaveBuzz(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: HVLP paint systems
paint it yourself, unless you have over GBP10,000 to give to someone else to
fill, sand and spray your pride and joy. probably a bit cheaper if you fill
and sand it first, but 'professional' sprayers will slap more paint on until
they get the finish they are happy with. I know of one europa that was sprayed
by aircraft (actually RAF) painters. Super finish, but each wing weighed about
15 to 20 lb extra, and in the end the builder spent many hours sanding off the
excess weight! His problem was that he didnt have a couple of RB199's pushing
his europa around....
A guy in one of the Europa club magazines (issue 9, june 96) described a paint
system used on gliders, called Schwabbellack, which is very hard wearing and
durable. I decided to use it in the end. The finish does not depend on how you
spray it on (just using a medium compressor and cheap spray gun), but on what
you sand off when flatted down with 400/600/1000 wet and dry, used wet. I am
very pleased with my initial efforts, would hate to think what sort of mess i
would have made with the standard aircraft paints.
chus, dave
kit67 and now G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
| Subject: | e's the club site? |
I just tried to look up something in the club archives, only to receive
the message "the requested URL http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa was not
found on this server". I backtracked to the avnet home page and poked
around, but could find no information. Does anyone know what's going on?
David
A071
I just tried to look up something in the club archives, only to receive the message the requested URL http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa was not found on this server. I backtracked to the avnet home page and poked around, but could find no information. Does anyone know what's going on?
David
A071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Thursby <jthursbyeuropa(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint systems |
>Hi,
>I have done a bit of research and found that Fastech have a product with
>combined HVLP paint system and breathing apparatus for around US$800, which
>I think is less than a professional would charge to do the job.
>The question is: does anyone have any experience with these things? any
>recommendations? how many others have taken the DIY option?
>Graeme Smith
Hi, I have used Fastech's system that you described, and it works great. I
have used it with the Accuspray and the Lexaire spray guns. Both work good
although the Accuspray is more expensive. Most folks can do a good job on
their own plane, you just need to practice.
Jim Thursby
N814AT
>Graeme Smith Phone: +49 (0)6301 71 22 12
>Q-Labs Software Engineering GmbH, Fax: +49 (0)6301 71 22 99
>Technopark I, Mobile: +49 172 205 27 02
>Sauerwiesen 2, Siegelbach Email: Graeme.Smith@q-labs.de
>D-67661 Kaiserslautern, WWW: http://www.q-labs.de
>GERMANY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Mod 46 - possible fix. |
In message <3527591E.7819(at)photos.prestel.co.uk>, Carl Pattinson
writes
>If this could work it would certainly eliminate a lot of hassle and sore
>hands !
It's honestly not a difficult mod - really! It's even easier if you take
off the port stick - I don't think this was mentioned in the
instructions. Sore hands could also be eliminated if you were to detach
the starboard aileron quick connector.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter.Thomas(at)arcadiagroup.co.uk |
| Subject: | Where's the club site? |
"We apologise for the temporary interruption to transmission, normal programs
will resume as soon as possible"
During the upgrade to the list server (major-domo) the site was..... er......
.....um....... accidentally sub optimised; OK I admit it Deleted!
As we were the first users of the list server Avnet created the Europa club html
directory within the major-domo directory structure. I guess this had long been
forgotten as upgrading the server went as planned but at the cost of losing our
site.
Don't worry I have a complete back up at home, I'm just waiting for Avnet to
tell me where to put it (so to speak).
I will let people know as soon as it is back.
Best wishes
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com>
Subject: Where's the club site?
<< File: TXT1.TXT >> I just tried to look up something in the club archives,
only to receive
the message "the requested URL http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa was not
found on this server". I backtracked to the avnet home page and poked
around, but could find no information. Does anyone know what's going on?
David
A071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint systems |
UP-Schabbellack Weiss (ref 03-69066) is the standard white, I believe it is
only manufactured in Germany from Akzo-Coatings GmbH, D-70469, Stuttgart,
Germany. Have a tel no. of: (++49) 711 89510 but not sure if it is correct.
Alternatively London Sailplanes could possibly help, UK 01528 662068.
Have just finished spraying the fuzz, and one thing that is noticeable as that
Schwab-weiss does not appear to be as toxic as the standard 2 part aircraft
paint systems. With my S-10 repirator i could still get a whiff of fumes when
priming and finishing the metal bits, but no smell at all with Schwab-weiss on
the plastic bits. (knew that s-10 with its NBC levels of protection would come
in useful...)
chus, dave
G-BXUM
________________________________________________________________________________
I am using the Europa copper strip antenna with a Becker radio.
I have noticed that although the tower reception is clear and I have no interferance
at all I
sometimes cannot hear other airplanes, even when we are within one mile of each
other.
Also, although the reception in the plane is OK I notice that my transmission range
is only about 10
Miles.
I have not yet shortened the copper strips as suggested in the instalation manual
because it
means removing the rudder each time.
Does anyone have any experience with this "tuning" of the antenna or can anyone
suggest a good
antenna.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Best regards
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
By the way, I can consistently land without bouncing by giving a good dose of power
in the flare to
damp the descent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
Just completed Mod 46 which went pretty well using Graham's techniques to
speed things up. As usual, it took me longer than everyone else, about 8
hours. I found re-tightening the lock nuts on the pushods to be very
awkward, took about an hour just for that plus re-setting the length and the
rotation freedom. Eventually I laid a small mirror on the bottom of the hull
so I could peer in past my arm through the spar opening and thus get the
wrench onto the elusive lock nuts.
One problem I ran into was that the pitch system friction increased
significantly - to 9 or 10 ounces measured at the top of the stick with the
pushrod to the torque tube disconnected. This was due to end load on the
CS09B bearings, apparently due to a slight change in length when the CS10C's
were replaced. It required re-bedding the base of CS09 on flox to reduce the
friction to normal. Deja vu - the same problem occurred during the original
installation and was cured the same way.
John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
does the lack of pitch change due to
LG/flap deployment provide sufficient warning<<
Just tells you the gear is down, not if it is locked.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Wainwright <andreww(at)executek.com> |
As a ham radio operator, I can tell you that length of the antenna
matters in regards to standing wave and therefore efficiency of the
transmission. The other factor is polarity, i.e. going from vertical to
horizontal (one antenna vertical, the other horizontal) causes a 3db
loss of signal strength over both being vertical or both being
horizontal.
You may want to find a local Ham radio operator that can help you with
some 'radio' hints as antennas can matter much more than the actual
radio. They may also have a 2M Standing Wave meter which would work in
the aviation band to test the tuning of the antenna.
N7VVO
Andrew S. Wainwright
Building Europa ??? Starting Jan 1999 (hopefully!)
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Radio reception
I am using the Europa copper strip antenna with a Becker radio.
I have noticed that although the tower reception is clear and I have no
interferance at all I
sometimes cannot hear other airplanes, even when we are within one mile
of each other.
Also, although the reception in the plane is OK I notice that my
transmission range is only about 10
Miles.
I have not yet shortened the copper strips as suggested in the
instalation manual because it
means removing the rudder each time.
Does anyone have any experience with this "tuning" of the antenna or can
anyone suggest a good
antenna.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Best regards
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
By the way, I can consistently land without bouncing by giving a good
dose of power in the flare to
damp the descent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Europa FAQ version 5, last modified 4 May 1998
This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa e-mail
list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed by Ivan Shaw
(with a little help from Don Dykins).
=46AQ maintained at present by:
Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro & the Europa community]
europa-club(at)rowil.clara.net
Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time.
Questions answered (* changed since last version):
0 How do I get a copy of this FAQ?
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
* 2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
* 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
* 6 How do I join the Europa Club?
* 7 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
8 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
9 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
10 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
11 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
12 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
13 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
14 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
15 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
16 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
* 17 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
18 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
19 How will I know I've built it right?
20 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
21 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
* 23 What engines are available for the Europa?
24 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
25 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
0 How do I get a copy of this FAQ?
-------------------------------------
This FAQ is posted during the first week of each month to the Europa e-mail
list (starting January 1998).
Previous postings are available by searching the Avnet archives for a
subject line containing "FAQ".
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
New items, and correction or enhancement of existing items are welcome.
Send your suggestion in e-mail to the FAQ maintainer (see above).
Submissions most likely to be incorporated will have similar formatting to
the existing FAQ, and display accuracy in spelling, grammar, and syntax.
The ultimate deciding factor, however, will be the quality and relevancy of
the information. The maintainer reserves the right to edit for brevity,
clarity or humour.
* 2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
------------------------------------------
You can subscribe automatically by sending an e-mail message to
. The subject line is not important but the
body of the message should include the following command:
subscribe europa
You will then receive a message with instructions on how the list works,
and all future contributions to the list.
* 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
---------------------------------------------
To remove yourself from the Europa mailing list, send the following command
in email to :
unsubscribe
Please note that all commands (including subscribe and unsubscribe) to the
server which runs the Europa e-mail list must be addressed to the server,
NOT the list address where the discussion goes on. Doing that will make you
look (at best) forgetful, or (at worst) incapable of following simple
instructions (and you need to follow a lot of instructions to build an
aeroplane).
address which is different to one you originally subscribed on, the server
will not be able to deal with your request. If your e-mail address changes,
first unsubscribe using the old account, then subscribe using the new one.
4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
You forgot to choose "reply-to-all". Most email clients allow this as an
option when creating a reply, and some (like Eudora) can be set to have
that behaviour as default. Once the "to" header line has been created,
please remove the original sender's name from it, leaving just the
part. If you don't remove it, the original sender will
get your reply twice & wonder why you're repeating yourself.
You might ask why such an apparently inconvenient procedure is necessary.
When the Europa e-mail list was set up, the list server (which administers
it all) was indeed configured to make the "reply-to" field in the message
headers the same as the list address. This was very convenient for users,
as any reply was automatically posted for all to see. Of course, it also
sometimes caused embarrassment when folk forgot to change the "to" line in
their header when composing a reply meant to be read by the sender only.
However, much worse could happen when ill-configured or ill-designed e-mail
software interacted with list traffic. It could happen that such a system
immediately replied to every list message received by it, thus generating
another list message, which was again replied to, etc, etc, ad infinitum,
thus clogging up the list server and its communication ports with
ever-multiplying traffic. Such "mail loops" cannot arise if the "reply-to"
field is not set to the list address. To protect the list, and the
integrity of all Avnet's operations, this change was made in February 1998.
5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
The person who replied to your posting forgot to remove your personal email
address after choosing the "reply-to-all" option (so that the reply would
go to the Europa list). If the original sender's name is not removed from
the "to" field in the header, (leaving just the part),
the original sender will receive the reply twice - once direct and once via
the list.
See the answer to the previous question to understand why such an
apparently inconvenient arrangement is necessary.
* 6 How do I join the Europa Club?
-----------------------------------
Contact the Membership Secretary for full information. At present the
Membership Secretary is:
Rowland Carson
4 Saville Close
CHELTENHAM
Gloucestershire
England
GL50 4NE
* 7 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
The Europa factory puts out a newsletter from time to time, a subscription
to which is mandatory for all builders. Those not yet building can also
subscribe, but will not receive the inserts with details of modifications,
etc, which go only to builders. Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Aircraft"
at the office in Yorkshire, England or Florida, USA depending on your own
location. Europa Aircraft is opening new outlets in other countries which
will probably be able to handle factory newsletter subscriptions - check
the factory WWW site (see below) for the latest addresses.
The Europa Club puts out a newsletter (The Europa Flyer) four times a year
(Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec) to all paid-up Europa Club members. Subscriptions are
paid to "Europa Club". The Club and its newsletter is not connected with
the Europa factory or its newsletter.
The Europa e-mail list on the internet is open to anyone to join. There is
no charge. Like most things on the internet, it is not controlled by
anyone. Neither Europa Aircraft nor the Europa Club have any power over
what goes on there, although representatives from both take part from time
to time. It's simply a forum for discussion among Europa enthusiasts. Many
of the useful nuggets of information appearing there are reproduced in the
Europa Club newsletter. The list was set up by and is still maintained by,
a Europa Club member, in the time left over from bringing up a family,
earning a living, and building a Europa.
Both the Europa Club (http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa/) and Europa Aircraft
(http://www.europa-aircraft.com) have World Wide Web sites, and they are
linked together. The Club pages provide access to the archives of the
Europa e-mail list, and some past copies of the FACTORY newsletter, but NOT
the CLUB newsletter - that is available to Club members only.
8 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft organisation, and you can get help
and advice by joining. In UK, it's the Popular Flying Organisation (PFA)
with local Struts. In USA, it's the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA)
with local Chapters. In France, it's RSA.
9 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA, etc).
The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA. If you
live elsewhere, things may be different.
Several books are available on the subject.
Allan J Hall said:
My vote for most useful books would be:
Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis
=46irewall Forward - Tony Bingelis
Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue
Jim Campbell said:
Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740 pages
detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits as well as
over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic composite
construction technigues to test flying and dealing with the Feds...
US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881.
1-800-356-7767
Rowland Carson said:
I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your Homebuilt
=8B the one you=B9ll finish Kitplane Construction
by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack
Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft
Construction by Burt Rutan. All except the last are available from the PFA
bookshop. I can=B9t understand why they don=B9t do the Rutan one =8B I got mine
from Aircraft Spruce, who also do a kit of materials to go with it, so you
can try out the techniques on a small scale.
10 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some countries
will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility that you spend
several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then find that:
you have some subtle medical condition that prevents issue of a
flight medical
you spent so much on building the plane you have no funds left to pay
for training
you don't really like flying in a small plane
you just don't seem to have an aptitude for controlling a plane
OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but maybe
you might have chosen to use your time differently had you known in advance.
11 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
No. The Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license. It is too big,
fast, and heavy to be classed as an ultralight or microlight. The rules
defining microlights are slightly different in different countries, but the
Europa would not meet any of them. As far as formal pilot qualifications
are concerned, it's in the same category as a Cessna 150. However, since
(in its most popular configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger, your
flight safety will be greatly enhanced by having some prior taildragger
experience, and even more by getting some training on the Europa itself
from a pilot experienced on type before you launch solo.
12 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
-----------------------------------
The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's built one
and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that someone who has
developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling and cannot complete
the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit.
Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of general
pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in the magazines
of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular Flying" & EAA's "Sport
Aviaton"). You can also find them in a Europa-specific forum such as the
Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the Europa internet e-mail list.
You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else build
an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the CAA and the
=46AA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain specialist jobs (eg
painting, avionics installation) being done by others, but you should be
prepared to prove that you have done the bulk of the building yourself.
13 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit:
With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know of is
just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500.
Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete from
Europa Club members:
900
1200
1500+
1580
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000+
2300
2400
2400
2500
2500
~2800
2900
2900
3000
3000+
Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working)
builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with on
first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a concours-winner "show
plane" - or even all of the above!
14 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------------
John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995:
Kit delivered 19250
Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given)
Rotax 914 12500
prop 1500
Inst/avionics 10000
Upholst/paint 1000
-----
Total 45000
Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995:
Type: Item: Total (incl VAT):
Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75
Stage 2 wings 4,641.25
Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50
Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00
Fitting kit 2,937.50
overflow bottle 39.95
rectifier/regulator 41.13
slipper clutch 323.13
vacuum pump 675.63
Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50
Instruments altimeter 199.75
air speed 141.00
vertical speed 129.25
turn and slip 282.00
gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10
directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30
standby compass 70.50
Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42
Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25
Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13
Terra height encoder 207.48
Antenna kit 17.63
GPS 705.00
Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75
navigation lights 176.25
strobe 229.13
landing light 0.00
intercom 30.55
=46inish paint 587.50
paint labor 2,750.00
interior trim 587.50
Trailer 1,568.63
workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76
Total: 42,355.69
my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00
Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69
In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds):
Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500
Rotax engine kit # 9,000
Average Instrument Fit # 3,000
(ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches)
Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500
Paint and misc parts # 1,000
Registration & test flying # 1,000
Value Added Tax # 4,725
This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no
professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality will end
up spending nearer 35 - 40,000.
I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay your
hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the region of
1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year
In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia:
The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then
you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs
clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its
insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a quote from
Europa for a part share in a container for any future stages I may choose
to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me $6000.00 approx (2900.00
Pounds).
A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds
Packing 40.00
Crating 115.00
Insurance 16.00
Delivery approx 423.00
=46uselage Kit 5200.00
Packing 60.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 21.00
Delivery 696.00
If both purchased together
Wing kit 3800.00
=46use " 5200.00
Packing 100.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 1078.00
If both were sent in a container
Wing kit 3800.00
=46use " 5200.00
Packing 160.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 700.00
15 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when he got
his Europa built back in New Zealand, so when he visited the factory, he
brought a tape measure:
The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at
Kirbymoorside, are as follows.....
Height 84 inches 214 cm
Width 81 inches 206 cm
Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm
16 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
No. There are several other designs of trailer available in UK, including
several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade Trailers, and
Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa Flyer at various
times. You can also design and build your own, as described in Europa Flyer
#12.
* 17 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote:
The list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've come up
with a more expansive (expensive?) list.
Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow them if
possible.
In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill bits
etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the following:
Hand Tools:
Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging
Center punch, automatic
Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to C clamps.
Cold chisel - to cut control cable
Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points
Countersink, 45 degree
Dial caliper - optional but very useful
Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed.
Hacksaw
Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long
Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?)
Hot glue gun
Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level
Long board sander - as used for autobody work
Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?)
Paint pen, optional, available at art stores
Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker
Pad saw (aka back saw)
Pop riveter
Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for many things
including as a mini-squeegee when filling pinholes.
Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife trim stage.
Many other uses.
Respirator, with activated charcoal filters
Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?)
Scribe, carbide tip
Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler.
Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline
Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful
Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well.
Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc.
Tape measure
Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?)
Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred
Tubing cutter
Utility knife
Wire crimper for electrical terminals
Wood chisel, 1/2"
Power Tools:
Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on Tufnol. Handy for
fitting the footwell floors and fuselage rear bulkhead too.
Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks work great
for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming. The drum sanders work well
on glass. The wire brush removes foam and micro from glass prior to
bonding. Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due to
heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll end up buying a new
tool.
Drill press - required
Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save some time
since often one must drill holes and then enlarge or countersink them.
Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice.
Orbital sander - saves time, not required.
Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill.
Router - handy if you happen to have one
Shop vacuum - required
Things you make
Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so that it is
about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a nice fillet when applying flox
or micro in a corner. Wipe it off when you're done and re-use. It will last
forever, preserved in epoxy.
Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold sandpaper
worked for me. Used with electric drill to fit the control stick.
Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued on using
rubber cement.
Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left over from
wing inspection ports instead of plywood - for flexibility.
Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for long board
sander as found at auto stores.
Shop Aprons
Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and squeegees.
=46oam blocks work fine for this.
Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber cemented to them.
Make several with different grits.
Consumables
Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making more precise
patterns than using paper. Can be cut with scissors. I found this at the
local newspaper where they use the sheets in the printing process.
Fish line
Hot glue sticks
Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
Masking tape
Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware store. Use
for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts with the sticky nuts.
Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort
Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes, etc. Also
use to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking.
Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper
Sandpaper
Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of vinyl tubing
slipped over the nose to seal to the surface while injecting. Can often be
washed and re-used.
Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go over them.
Use string gloves as liners to absorb perspiration.
I'm not done building yet. Any suggestions for additions to the list?
18 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average
handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or at
least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official reasons
given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is "education". Few
people who have not previously built a foam & glass aeroplane will be
familiar with the techniques, but most will reach an acceptable standard
after some small practice pieces.
19 How will I know I've built it right?
-----------------------------------------
Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical
Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable
standard - may even help you do some things first time around!
You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to make & keep
small samples of each batch of layup that you do, which can be tested to
destruction as proof of strength.
20 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
----------------------------------------------------
Graham Singleton said:
Burt Rutan described the best check I know.
6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface. Squeegee
out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in. If too much
pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres relax. Allow to cure,
cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and weigh. 297 gms is a bit light
and might have air voids. 310 gms is perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your
aircraft was built to this ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40
lbs overweight. (18 Kgs if you must )
21 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
-------------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system causes
least reaction:
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less prone to
provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was allergic to that too.
Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am I allergic to Redux. It's a
matter of personal chemistry, so buy a small amount and try it before
commiting. For me, a respirator wasn't sufficient so I had to get a
Hobbyair to allow work to continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the hardner.
Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's personal
reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to Aeropoxy that a
couple hours in the garage with the wings which had cured for over three
weeks would cause a major reaction, so apparently the amines out-gas for
quite a while. Touching the cured wings also caused serious problems.
Washing the cured parts with a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water -
required before filling anyway - eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to the
gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an epoxy allergy
since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously. Avoid gloves which
use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely to provoke an allergy
and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile gloves are a good alternative.
Use string gloves as a liner to minimize softening of the skin due to sweat
since this increases absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the
latex gloves when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally
impermeable to epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves
when exposed to wet epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is
prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some become
so sensitive that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
22 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is the
ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but they have
delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So, as an aircraft
builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the US, you deal with
the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the aircraft for flight. In
UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but rather a "Permit to Fly", similar
to that issued for a manufacturer's prototype. In USA, they are issued a C
of A in the "Experimental" category.
In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an inspector
appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections, the aircraft
will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of the building process,
preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical Counselor" is required in USA.
Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority must
be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable standard of
workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the builder (ie not built
by a "hired gun") and that it matches the design to agreed tolerances. Any
modifications made by the builder must also be approved.
The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about the
UK paperwork requirements.
* 23 What engines are available for the Europa?
-----------------------------------------------
Europa Aircraft only supply and recommend Rotax engine packages at present.
Other engines are available from independent sources - Europa Aircraft are
not at present pursuing alternative powerplants in-house.
Rotax 912 80bhp (flying)
Rotax 912S 100bhp (expected to be available around end 1998)
Rotax 914 115 bhp, turbocharged (flying)
NSI Subaru 100bhp & 118bhp (flying)
Mid-West rotary (has flown in at least 2 Europas)
Jabiru 4-cylinder (flying in Jabiru; Europa installation under development)
Jabiru 6-cylinder (engine under development)
BMW RS1100 (aero conversion and Europa installation under independent
development)
The majority of Europas now flying use the Rotax 912, which has proved very
reliable in the Europa (and many other aircraft types); although several of
the other engine packages are flying in other designs, not enough are in
service in Europas to make statistically significant comparisons. Engine
installations usually differ from one design of aircraft to another. The
size of propellor that can be used, the cowl shape, and in particular,
changes in the design of cooling ducts, mean that experience in other
designs may not transfer directly to the Europa situation.
24 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the useable internal
width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed.
Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great outdoors
(freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping the rudder
pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about shoulder room.
Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider what
it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less roomy for the
very tall than some of the other kits (such as the Glastar) but then it has
many other advantages over these, such as fuel economy and all-round
elegance. It is much roomier than some of the more direct competition such
as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I believe) and designed it to be
comfortable for him.
The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you have
a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase this (one UK
builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a substantial modification
which could provide the answer). If you have any doubts then find a
finished example and try at least to have a long "sit" - whilst making the
obligatory "brrmming" noises of course.
At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort during
long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of work.
The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a visit
and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder left convinced
that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as to how he must have
been proportioned!
25 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa is
capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up. The snag,
as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right and you have
failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for error and, at a
certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are committed and there is
no room to change your mind.
Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that there
is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never need that room
- but ... but ... but ... but ...
My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I would
be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields.
=2E.. that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MELVYNBS <MELVYNBS(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa takes Mel for a ride |
Thanks for the web site update. Just want to relay to all Europa fans
world wide that haven't gotten a chance to fly one yet that it's all the
things you've read about it....Flew the factory demonstrator at Plant City,
Florida...
the Strawberry Capitol of the World while at Sun 'n Fun. First four point
landing
I've every experienced and the best fifty bucks ($50USA dollars) I've ever
spent.
Also, met a lot of owners and builders who were very helpful at the tent.
(I was the guy sitting over at the table reading the construction manual for
hours
and hours.) I'm sure I could build the Europa chock! Thanks Ivan for a great
airship. Now...monowheel or tripod?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Warning ? |
In a message dated 23/04/98 15:39:10, JohnJMoran(at)aol.com writes:
<< Is it appropriate to add a LG alarm or does the lack of pitch change due to
LG/flap deployment provide sufficient warning so that this would be a waste
of
effort? >>
In one of the gear-up landings I know about, the main warning feature (high
approach speed) was absent due to the pilot side slipping - so yes add one.
However IMHO the RMI output needs augmenting to provide a head-phone signal.
Cockpit output, whether audio or a light flashing is not obvious enough. While
you are at it, build a small mixer board with several monostables, providing
different coded audio signals mixed into the pilot headset, for other warnings
you might find useful. However with too many of these you may waste valuable
time remembering which is which. Ambiguity is removed if you generate voice
messages but this means a lot more hardware or an onboard computer.
I don't follow the "gear not locked down" thread. The design is an overcenter
system and AFAIK can't go up if the lever is fully back in the gate (assuming
it has been correctly set up). So if the switch is placed to detect the
_sideways_ movement as the lever springs into the gate, it's locked. End of
problem.
Graham C G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Warning ? |
>>I don't follow the "gear not locked down" thread. The design is an
overcenter
system and AFAIK can't go up if the lever is fully back in the gate
(assuming
it has been correctly set up).<<
I suspect it is possible for it to bounce out of the overcentre position.
If the wheel sees -ve G the linkage will pull out of overcentre and flip
into an unlocked position.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio reception |
In a message dated 03/05/98 16:31:24, Tennant@t-online.de writes:
<< I have noticed that although the tower reception is clear and I have no
interferance at all I sometimes cannot hear other airplanes, even when we are
within one mile of each other. Also, although the reception in the plane is OK
I notice that my transmission range is only about 10 >>
10 miles is pretty poor for line of sight - ground stations mostly put out
much more power than airborne sets, which would account for not receiving
closer airplanes. It would appear you have something significantly wrong
probably on the antenna side. You could try running the set on the ground
with a temporary antenna with a different and shorter coax. assuming you have
a local airfield or VOR with ATIS.
VSWR's can be quite high (2 to 3) before serious transmission loss sets in.
They are bad news for output transistors though. The long length of cable to
the fin-mounted Europa antenna raises some other problems. Firstly there will
be more loss if it is not good quality cable - secondly if mismatched and with
low loss cable, the VSWR can have more than one resonance peak within the
airband. If one of these is sitting on your favourite frequency than you will
get poor performance.
So as Andrew W says, you need the help of a radio ham with a VSWR meter. This
reminds me of another feature I have noticed. The squelch on amateur band
receivers (at least in UK) works backwards with respect to that on airband
sets. So be careful you are not squelching your signals off
Graham C G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
| Subject: | o reception correspondence |
John:
What Gramin sez is perfectly true. The apparent cause seems to be the
antenna. There are, besides VSWR meters, a new development which amateur
experimenters will be acquiring (or have). The devices are called
Antenna Analyzers and are becoming more common. They not only give you
the VSWR at any frequency, but search out and display the Resonant
Frequency of your installation, along with several other qualities. This
would simplify the testing of your anteena immensely, and permit
accurate adjustment if necessary.
One other facet has not been mentionned. The polarity of your antenna.
As a standard, all aviation VHF antennae are vertically polarized. That
is, they stand up vertically (usually an electrical quarter-wavelength
for simplicity). If you have installed one horizontally, it will lose
about 20 decibels of signal strength by being cross-polarized - a
function of its design. This would mean a loss of signal from marginal
distance aircraft, but less noticeable from ground stations because of
their greater output power.
Hope this helps as well,
Happy Landings,
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday again,
I've just setup my tailplane trim tab hinges and I would like to pass on a
couple of tips to those who haven't yet done it, or for those at the aileron
hinge setup.
1)Place trim tabs ontop of each other so that the leading edge of one has
the trailing edge of the other adjacent. Note that the bottom tabs lower
skin, the one on the bench is parrallel now to the top skin of the top tab.
Now place them both together under your pillar drill (drill press) and
merrily drill holes that will be perpendicular to the hinge flanges. I used
this technique of marrying the tabs when I did the outboard tab tip
closeouts, and layed the cloth over both tips at once. Worked well.
2)To drill perpendicular holes in closeout flanges of tailplanes or wings
simply get a bit of 300mm long 25-30mmX6-8mm timber and cut 2 pieces roughly
40mm long from the end. Now stack glue them to one end of the remainder, the
long piece. When the glue has dried place a 1/16",3/32",#30,4.0mm,4.8mm in
this stacked/thicker end using the same pillar drill/drill press, and VOILA!
This thicker end will nicely keep all your cordless drilling vertical and
precise.
3)Now the best tip is how to use the thingamejig mentioned in 2). Well if
you shine a torch onto the end of the hinge flange that you are about to
drill into, the fibres transmit the light around such that you can look down
from above, through the smallest hole being 1/16", and see easily a small
penmark cross placed in advance.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Does anyone know what workshop fluids that I "shouldn't" mix with discarded
acetone? Can I for instance put my old turps that I just used to clean out
an old boot polish brush that was choked with old polish? I would have given
it a go ten years ago! You know, take a deep breath, pull your head into
your shoulders and try and make your neck disappear, cringe as you pour, and
set up a hypnotic chant of 000 or 911 so that if things go boom all you have
to do is increase your volume!
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Sheridan" <rogersheridan(at)btinternet.com> |
I'm having a problem adding the kit to my home contents insurance. Would be intersted
to hear whether any UK builders have insured their aircraft kits during
the building process and for what kind of premium. I would probably only want
to insure to the value of a replacement kit until completion.
Thanks.
Rog Sheridan.
to my home contents insurance. Would be intersted to hear whether any UK
replacement kit until completion.
Thanks.
Rog Sheridan.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Stones <stonesn(at)ozemail.com.au> |
I am trying to get a message to Phillip Spencer of Husbands Bosworth Soaring Centre.
Can anyone help?
-==-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Warning ? |
In message <199805061934_MC2-3C22-2B6A(at)compuserve.com>, Graham Singleton
<100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> writes
>I suspect it is possible for it to bounce out of the overcentre position.
Now there's a thing! Puts a whole new complexion on gear warnings i
suppose.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio reception |
In message <4bfd20f2.35517b93(at)aol.com>, Gramin writes
>f one of these is sitting on your favourite frequency than you will
>get poor performance.
Still got a major problem with my radio. Receives ok apparently. Appears
to transmit at extremes of band - but not in the middle - at my
"favourite frequency" - why is this a black art for goodness sake -
radios have been around for a while I think! Oh - and I've replaced the
antenna with a commercial one - it's better but not a lot! The cable is
what it should be as far as I know. It's also not a totally unique
problem - Bob Nuckolls has quoted a similar unresolved problem.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schultz" <schultz(at)sahara.com.sa> |
Hello All,
I am new to the list and have a question.
I have been looking into a Europa for about a year now. I just got on the
list so I do not know about old posting but if someone can fill me in on
the options of putting lights on an 914 XS kit, I would really appreciate
the information. I need to be ready to buy a kit by Oshkosh 98 and it is
coming down to the Europa and RV-6. I will be using the plane in the US and
really do not want to be limited to Day VFR... What have people done to Add
lights and strobes for night flight.
Again thanks in advance for the information. I can see this is a very
active list and I hope to be asking more detailed questions as I learn
more.
Regards,
Rich Schultz
Schultz(at)Sahara.Com.SA
Hello All,
I am new to the list and have a question.
I have been looking into a Europa for about a year now. I just got on the list
so I do not know about old posting but if someone can fill me in on the options
of putting lights on an 914 XS kit, I would really appreciate the information.
I need to be ready to buy a kit by Oshkosh 98 and it is coming down to the
Europa and RV-6. I will be using the plane in the US and really do not want to
be limited to Day VFR... What have people done to Add lights and strobes for
night flight.
Again thanks in advance for the information. I can see this is a very active list
and I hope to be asking more detailed questions as I learn more.
Regards,
Rich Schultz
Schultz(at)Sahara.Com.SA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Sheridan" <rogersheridan(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio reception |
Dear Rolph,
When we started flying GELSA in Lakeland we had a similar problem, reception
OK but poor & intermittent transmit & yes it was an antenna problem -
clearly the antenna is required to handle much greater power for
transmitting.
We replaced the existing welding rods with copper tape in the fin close out
but were unable to obtain any ferrite torroids. I therefore made up a
"balun" from a loop of the RG58 cable from a published design which should
be available on the net somewhere. Goodness knows how this works but after
trimming the copper tape there was a sudden dramatic reduction in VSWR
reading and our radio performance was transformed.
It worked for us, just don't ask me why!
Rog.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
After hearing of a failure in the bond of a shoot bolt guide to the door I
have been considering how to avoid such a failure in my doors. The concern is
that I don't see how to assure that the shoot bolt bonds to the inside of the
door panel while avoiding bonding the shoot bolt into the guide; relying on
the bond around the outer rim of the guide seems less desirable.
My current concept is to mold a tunnel of flox about an inch long inside each
of the holes where the shoot bolt guides mount prior to bonding the guides in
place. I have made a tool to shape the flox from a bit of plastic pipe which
is about 30 mils larger in diameter than the guide with 2/3 of the
circumference removed for about 2 inches from one end to allow forming and
shaping the tunnel. These tunnels will be fine tuned with the Dremel prior to
Reduxing the guides in place. By providing bonding area all the way around I
expect to be able to get support at other than the outside end, plus if a
failure occurs the movement of the guide will be constrained by the flox
tunnel such that the door should remain latched.
Anyone have a better idea?
Also, I have seen cracking around the plexiglas in one Europa, apparently in
the filler just outside of where the plexi ends. Discussions on this
phenomena were inconclusive at the time in that one opinion was that this was
due to faulty fitting while the other was that a layer of very thin glass
cloth, available at hobby shops, should be used over this area extending over
the plexi by 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
Has anyone else experienced cracking in this area? How would faulty fitting
cause this problem? Would adding the glass tape help? Would the glass tape
make it exceptionally difficult to change the plexi if necessary sometime in
the future?
Regards, John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fillinger <Fillinger(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio reception |
<< When we started flying GELSA in Lakeland we had a similar problem,
>> reception OK but poor & intermittent transmit & yes it was an antenna
>> problem - clearly the antenna is required to handle much greater power
>> for transmitting.
>> We replaced the existing welding rods with copper tape in the fin close out
>> but were unable to obtain any ferrite torroids. I therefore made up a
>> "balun" from a loop of the RG58 cable from a published design which should
>> be available on the net somewhere. Goodness knows how this works but after
>> trimming the copper tape there was a sudden dramatic reduction in VSWR
>> reading and our radio performance was transformed. >>
>> It worked for us, just don't ask me why!
I am not an expert here, but I can quote others who are. If you swapped
copper
tape for welding rods, what you did was probably increase bandwidth, as I
would
understand from Jim Weir's explanation that accompanies his (RST Engineering)
copper tape/toriod core kits. In other words, you increased efficiency across
the band, and reduced it at its peak. Similarly, he also says that the
classic RG58 loop balun is more peaky that toroid cores, though. However, Bob
Archer (Archer Antennas) says that toriod cores are very "lossy." Maybe it's
a trade-off.
I was unable to prove this, as before I glassed in a nav antenna/toriod core
setup
onto a wing core, I took it to my other plane at the airport and got better
reception
(on the ground, VOR 20 miles away) than the bird-roost V-antenna on the plane.
I doubt, though, the power-handling capability was the problem, as welding rod
can handle the current easily. The tricky part is the radiating pattern and
as you
know, VSWR (related to bandwidth).
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
Mentor, OH, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fillinger <Fillinger(at)aol.com> |
>> After hearing of a failure in the bond of a shoot bolt guide to the door I
>> have been considering how to avoid such a failure in my doors......
>> My current concept is to mold a tunnel of flox about an inch long inside
each
>> of the holes where the shoot bolt guides mount prior to bonding the guides
in
>> place.......
That's exactly what I did, and let's hope it works.
>> Also, I have seen cracking around the plexiglas in one Europa, apparently
in
>> the filler just outside of where the plexi ends. Discussions on this
>> phenomena were inconclusive at the time in that one opinion was that this
was
>> due to faulty fitting while the other was that a layer of very thin glass
>> cloth, available at hobby shops, should be used over this area extending
over
>> the plexi by 1/4 to 1/2 inch....
If I understand you that the door itself is cracking, I don't know if the
hobby shop
glass has enough stiffness to accomplish much. Aesthetic objections, too.
Seems
to me that the skin on these doors is very thin, and the the radius at the
flange
where the plexi goes is pure gelcoat. I wonder if different coeffficients of
expansion are the culprit. I was thinking of installing the "Perpsex" not
with
Redux but black RTV. It is necessary to prime the plexiglass bonding area
with
an epoxy primer, but the result is both strong but having a little give. This
method
is used on Grumman AA-series aircraft, for windshield attachment to the
windshield bow, which talkes a lot of abuse as a handhold and attach point
for the canopy locking mechanism.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
Mentor, OH, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz <DaveBuzz(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 08/05/98 11:59:06, you write:
<< I'm having a problem adding the kit to my home contents insurance. Would be=0Aintersted
to hear whether any UK builders have insured their aircraft kits=0Aduring
the building process and for what kind of premium. >>
Roger,
Ive tried 2, Polygon, the Europa package, is quite expensive, over =A3350 I=0Abelieve
for a full kit of all 4 parts. HR Jennings are considerably cheaper=0Afor
the full parts kits. When it comes to flying insurance, it appears that=0APolygon
give the better quote, probably depending on flying experience.
Havent tried anyone else though, and looking through my home contents it=0Aspecifically
excludes aircraft. Didnt bother asking them for a quote, its bad=0Aenough
getting people to believe my surname, never mind getting them to=0Abelieve
that I want to BUILD a plane in the garage!
get quotes from both.
chus, dave
kit67
g-bxum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
In a message dated 09/05/98 14:39:08, you write:
<< After hearing of a failure in the bond of a shoot bolt guide to the door I
have been considering how to avoid such a failure in my doors. >>
Maybe it was mine you heard about ? I believe it was induced by over-
enthusiastic shoving to check it was really home. I very much doubt if the
normal suction would do it, so yes by all means reinforce, but I now don't
whack it so much. The switches tell me its home anyway.
Not had the plexiglass problem - Redux flexibility is supposed to relieve any
strain- anything softer might degrade the integrity of the bond.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
Numerous builders, especially in the U.S., have put lights on their
Europas. The first shipment of XS wings has yet to arrive (mine to be in
it, one hopes), so I can't say exactly how easy/hard it will be to
install lights, but I certainly plan to do so. Kim Prout (818-920-3055)
has lights on his Europa, and can advise. The Lakeland office probably
has lights on the factory XS demo, so give them a call at
(941-647-5355).
I looked long and hard at both the mentioned planes - it comes down to
metal or glass, and what's your intended mission. The Europa is
certainly less expensive to fly, and has better short/soft field
performance. Additionally, the supply of small Lycoming engines is
getting a bit tight, raising the price for the RV (and many other kits).
If you haven't flown a Europa yet, get thee to an airshow. I was hooked
after a test flight, and that was before the XS model came out.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Schultz [SMTP:schultz(at)sahara.com.sa]
> Sent: Thursday, May 07, 1998 06:13
> To: Europa mail list
> Subject: Landing lights?
>
> Hello All,
>
>
> I am new to the list and have a question.
>
> I have been looking into a Europa for about a year now. I just got on
> the list so I do not know about old posting but if someone can fill me
> in on the options of putting lights on an 914 XS kit, I would really
> appreciate the information. I need to be ready to buy a kit by Oshkosh
> 98 and it is coming down to the Europa and RV-6. I will be using the
> plane in the US and really do not want to be limited to Day VFR...
> What have people done to Add lights and strobes for night flight.
>
> Again thanks in advance for the information. I can see this is a very
> active list and I hope to be asking more detailed questions as I learn
> more.
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Rich Schultz
> Schultz(at)Sahara.Com.SA
>
>
Numerous builders, especially in the U.S., have put lights on their Europas. The
first shipment of XS wings has yet to arrive (mine to be in it, one hopes),
so I can't say exactly how easy/hard it will be to install lights, but I certainly
plan to do so. Kim Prout (818-920-3055) has lights on his Europa, and can
advise. The Lakeland office probably has lights on the factory XS demo, so give
them a call at (941-647-5355).
I looked long and hard at both the mentioned planes - it comes down to metal or
glass, and what's your intended mission. The Europa is certainly less expensive
to fly, and has better short/soft field performance. Additionally, the supply
of small Lycoming engines is getting a bit tight, raising the price for the
RV (and many other kits). If you haven't flown a Europa yet, get thee to an airshow.
I was hooked after a test flight, and that was before the XS model came
out.
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Schultz [SMTP:schultz(at)sahara.com.sa]
Subject: Landing lights?
Hello All,
I am new to the list and have a question.
I have been looking into a Europa for about a year now. I just got on the list
so I do not know about old posting but if someone can fill me in on the options
of putting lights on an 914 XS kit, I would really appreciate the information.
I need to be ready to buy a kit by Oshkosh 98 and it is coming down to the
Europa and RV-6. I will be using the plane in the US and really do not want to
be limited to Day VFR... What have people done to Add lights and strobes for
night flight.
Again thanks in advance for the information. I can see this is a very active list
and I hope to be asking more detailed questions as I learn more.
Regards,
Rich Schultz
Schultz(at)Sahara.Com.SA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | pa Fuselage Dolly |
Reaching the stage where it would be useful to store the fusealage on a
"dolly" to wheel it into the drive to attach wings, check retraction, flap
angles etc; I wonder if anyone out there has a suitable design or could put
me in touch with someone in the North of England who might loan one for a
short while please?
Hope someone can help
Roger Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk |
As a result of upgrading to the XS the expensive way, I have most
of an old wing kit cluttering up my workshop. I hadn't thought of
these being especially useful but I do know of people who have had
to re-build components due to damage etc. Guess the main bits
which may be of interest are:
Complete set of wing foam blocks
Set of aileron foam blocks
2 flaps with top and bottom surfaces complete (though set to
XS Washout)
Roll of biaxial cloth
Any offers to me via email please. I'm based in the East Midlands,
UK.
Dave Howard
#309
dave.howard(at)icl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Huot <DonHuot(at)aol.com> |
EUROPA FOR SALE, 86 TT
VFR, NAVAID AUTO PILOT
NSI SUBERU EA-81 IOO HP
COCKPIT ADJUSTABLE PROP
FACTORY TRAILER
ASKING $ 50,000
CALL DON @ 404/843-3611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Considering my options as to whether to use a "factory manual" fuselage
stand or make an adjustable spinable contraption so that the fuselage can be
placed sideways or up side down as needed. Any comments, designs, etc, out
there?
All the best,
Miles.
________________________________________________________________________________
To close the discussion on radio reception from my side.
I decided not to play arround with the copper strip antenna so I splash out and
bought an Archer
antenna from Aircraft Spruce as recomended by several people. I tried it out yesterday
and
reception / transmission was OK out to at least 20 NM from home base at 3000 ft.
This was not the
limit but I no time to fly for longer as our field closes at 8pm.
Thank you all for your advice and the lively discussion.
Best regards
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jonathan & Carla <Flyingman(at)compuserve.com> |
Having completed the fuselage to about when the fuselage top goes on there
hasn't yet been any need for up-side-down or on-the-side work. What has
been very useful is access from underneath (glueing in cockpit module for
e.g). To allow this I built the simlpest possible cradle. Four 4 foot post
legs connected by four +/- 5 foot planks. The fuselage rests on two of the
planks with scrap foam spreading the load. Easily moved by two people or
dragged by one. By spacing the planks right it also made a great holder for
the cockpit module which does need to be turned every which way.
Jonathan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage stand |
I built a low platform for a fuselage stand using wood from the fuselage
crate. Used the metal gadgets made to simplify construction of sawhorses
(trestles) as sold at hardware stores for $1 each to make 2 low sawhorses
about 5 feet long and 17" high from 2x4's (odd looking things, these
Dachshorses). Screwed a 38" by 68" piece of 1/2" plywood to these to form the
platform, where the horses are 24" apart. These dimensions are such that you
won't bang your shins or stub your toes on the woodwork. A piece of thick
shag carpeting on top provides cushioning. Another (much taller) sawhorse is
needed to support the tail in the horizontal position.
To install the gear a 32" long (28" would probably work fine) slot 11" wide
was cut and a 2x4 crosspiece installed under the plywood between the horses.
This slot allows the gear to drop through to full extension although just
barely -- the fuselage must be raised an inch or so to allow the gear to lock
down. It then sits partially supported by the gear and partially by the
table, which is the reason the horses were built to 17". This is also a
convenient height for work on/in the fuselage bottom after installing the seat
module. It takes help to remove the fuselage from the platform: with the gear
down, raise the tail an additional 6" or so, have someone balance the
fuselage, then slide the platform aft.
I did find that with the gear removed the fuselage can be flipped on the side
easily and held in position by foam wedges, although I always attach a safety
rope to the garage door track just in case. It makes life much easier to cut
the LG opening and to install the LG frame, glass tapes, rudder cables, LA
mod, fit the tunnel bulkhead, etc. in this side position.
Bob Berube from the Florida office has published a plan for a rack built from
2x4's which holds the fuselage suspended from bolts through holes drilled in
the fuselage. The point of his design is that the fuselage is rigidly held in
position so that the flaps can be installed before the top is bonded on and it
has wheels to allow moving it about. I don't know how work in the tunnel is
handled with this scheme, so contact Bob on this.
John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Pattinson <carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk> |
| Subject: | pa Tailwheel Mod |
I have just received my Europa tailwheel mod kit (a la XS design) and am
aware of considerable controversy about the factory design. I am also in
receipt of several alternative designs which are mods of the factory
mod.
Whilst I am aware of the reasons for builders wishing to improve the
design the fact still remains that Europa say that a year on they are
perfectly happy with the original design and have no plans to change it.
Disregarding engineering niceties, the fact remains that G-EXUS has been
flying with modded tailwheel for nearly a year and has probably done
more takeoffs and landings in that time than many of us will manage in
a long time. We are given to believe that this has been problem free.
I am inclned to believe what Europa Aircraft say because if there was
any likelyhood of the bottom hinge breaking this could result in a
rudder jammed in at a critical part of the takeoff. It would seem that
the rudder hinge is under the greatest stress during a bumpy takeoff (or
landing) on rough ground where there would be a tendency for the
tailwheel to jerk the rudder around.
My question is "Has anyone else done the mod as per the Europa design"
and if so, what do they think. Has anyone flown their aircraft with the
standard design ?
Carl Pattinson.
G-LABS (not yet, but soon !)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
I would like to know what people would recommend as the most applicable
lubricant to use on my tailplane torque tube. Obviously it has to be
compatible with the foam as no doubt over time some will work its way inside
the tailplanes. Any advice will be appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
>>Having completed the fuselage to about when the fuselage top goes on
there
hasn't yet been any need for up-side-down or on-the-side work.<<
Fit the wings, flap cross tube and all other controls before the top goes
on. Saves LOTS of crawling down the back. {;-)
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Construction; Part Two |
Some hints that may be of use to builders concerning the second part of the wing
construction.
PART TWO; BONDING T.E CORES TO SPAR AND LAYUPS.
1.For the lateral push-rod channel, I laid one layer of bid throughout No 6 root
core,
No 5 middle and 43mm core for protection of the foam.I therefore made flox fillets
around each channel entry/exit.
2.To position the W18 plates I drilled 4 small holes in the plates and before the
layup
positioned them as required using 1/2 cocktail sticks planted only 1/2 way. Then
on
laying up planted them fully home to keep the plates positioned during cure.
3.The 43mm wide piece layup I placed a 3 inch nail,one each side of the channel
end to
support the piece on two blocks of wood either side, clear of the table.I positioned
a
small piece of wood under the other end to keep layups clear of the table. Simply
alternated horizonally on the table, each side for layups as necessary.
4.On positioning the root core on the spar I glued with rapid epoxy the straigth
edge to
the LE root core using a spacer to fill the gap.Likewise to the tip end.
5.I positioned and dry microed the 43mm to the middle core before doing the main
bonding.
6.I hot glued small cut-offs of stirring sticks to the spar edge to position the
cores
correctly with the straight edge before bonding.
7.I positoned a thin straight edge in the flap slot between No6 and No 5 cores
to keep
them lined up.
8. After bonding, I repositioned the leading surface jig blocks with masking tape
to
protect the surface and do the layup horizonally on the floor.
8.On cutting the biaxial cloth make sure one rolls it up on a cylinder of some
sort to
avoid the cloth getting out of shape and becoming too short when unrolling it for
the
layup.
9.I ran peel ply along the aileron area where foam is to be cut out and likewise
the
flap area.
10.I also marked on the foam a line for the flap glass cut out and aileron foam
cut out.
11.Part of the root core was 2mm too thin either side of the spar, so I filled
this
space with dry micro using a plastic ruler to spread it evenly.
12.We did the T.E bottom and top layups horzonally at floor level and on completion
reverted them to the vertical.
13.Removing the flap and aileron foam for the closeout was done by a long hacksaw
blade
in sections.
14.To achieve a good seating for the triangular piece, I sanded the 90 degree edge
a
little and before bonding, like all corners,used dry micro to lessen the angle
for
the risk of air bubbles, and bonded the piece in place with dry micro.
15. I peel plied the entire area of the flap close out and the hinge area for the
ailerons.I wish I had done the entire area of the aileron closeout.
16. Aileron close out, I used a recommendation from this web of wetting out the
cloth on
film and a suitably cut thin MDF board on the table after increasing the size
of the
cloth to fit the closeout length. Then transferred the cloth via the board to the
closeout, lining it up and tipping it upside down over the closeout.Using fingers
then
to manipulate it into place before taking the film away.
17.Cutting the trailing edge support blocks, I used masking tape to strap a plastic
ruler under the block on the top surface to act as a guide for the hacksaw blade
to cut
over it.I marked the top surface 2mm out from the glass to act as a guide for the
blade
on the top surface of the block. This left a 2mm layer to sand after cutting.
This maybe of help.
Root Close outs to come.
Cheers,
Tim
--
Timothy. P. Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
CHRISTCHURCH 1.
NEW ZEALAND
PH 6433515166
Fax 6433515166
Email: ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Europa Tailwheel Mod |
Hi Carl !
I have about 20 hrs on the original design and 15 hrs on the Europa standard tail
wheel mod. I also
read the discussions on this forum and considered a modification to the Europa
mod.
I am glad now that I made the mod to the Europa spec as it works 100%.
It has transformed the take off and especially landing handling performance. On
take off there is
nearly no transition from tail wheel to rudder authority when the tail is lifted,
even in cross winds.
On landing the stability of tracking is no longer nervous with about 50% of the
foot work required
as compared with the old design.
I am sure that many of you tail wheel aces out there have no problem with the old
design but the
more humble mortals among us need all the help we can get and this mod is certainly
a big help!!
One problem I have encountered is that as the rudder is no longer fixed firmly
to the tail wheel it
flaps about when being towed on the trailor. I have to construct a clamp to hold
the rudder.
Best regards to all
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Tauch <et(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Stand |
Hello Roger and all,
Liked the pic of the trolley. How do you get a finished plane up on the
troller (say for moving). Back it on, and
then tilt back and strap down????
Eric Tauch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Sheridan" <rogersheridan(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Stand |
>Liked the pic of the trolley. How do you get a finished plane up on the
>troller (say for moving). Back it on, and
>then tilt back and strap down????
>
>Eric Tauch
That's pretty much what I plan to to Eric, have fitted trailer jockey wheels
to the fat end so I can wind it up & down which should help - also useful
for adjusting fuselage to horizontal during building. Will send you a larger
picture direct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland and Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Stand |
> Attached picture shows my copy of the factory designed fuselage stand
Looks very effective, but details are a bit hard to make out at the scale
sent. No, DON'T post a high-resolution binary to the list, PLEASE!
>If anybody would like a larger picture or to borrow the drawings/templates
>please let me know.
Well, I think the most useful information would be a listing of the
co-ordinates of all those u-shapes, and the fuselage stations they fit at,
if that info is available. The details of the supporting construction could
vary according to what a builder had handy (angle iron, aluminium tube,
speedframe, timber, etc).
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Sheridan" <rogersheridan(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Stand |
>Looks very effective, but details are a bit hard to make out at the scale
>sent. No, DON'T post a high-resolution binary to the list, PLEASE!
>
That's why I sent a thumbnail & have forwarded a better picture direct too
those that requested it - in fact this list will only allow messages less
that 40kb.
>Well, I think the most useful information would be a listing of the
>co-ordinates of all those u-shapes, and the fuselage stations they fit at,
Doubtless true but unfortunately I'm limited to cardboard & felt tip
technology at this end - will try to produce something useable next week.
Rog.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John O'Connor" <jpoc(at)ulm.netsurf.de> |
It looks as though I shall be buying a car trailer in the next couple of
months. If my plans for later this year work out, later on, I shall need
a trailer suitable for a Europa XS.
Does anyone know if it is feasible to use one trailer for both purposes?
The most obvious route would be to get a standard car trailer and then
build a removeable rig to carry the aircraft. Has anyone tried this? Any
thoughts on what would make a good or bad trailer to use as a starting
point?
Alternatively, could the factory trailer be modified for the carriage of
a car? Clearly there are weight issues here but the cars that I need to
transport are only a little heavier than the MTOW of a Europa.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk (Jim Naylor) |
>Gidday,
>I would like to know what people would recommend as the most applicable
>lubricant to use on my tailplane torque tube.
>Tony Renshaw
>Builder No.236
Hi Tony,
We have been flying our Europa now for just over 2 years. It is rigged and
de-rigged for every flying occasion, so all the parts are well tested. I
have found a wipe with a cloth soaked in very light machine oil (called 3
In One over here) makes the tail planes slide on and off very easy. The
torque tubes need to be wiped with a clean cloth and reoiled about every
couple of months when the oil starts to get a bit sticky, but that is all.
The pip pins get the same treatment, but they can be washed in a solvent
before reoiling. I prefer to use grease on the spar pins, and have made a
small receptacle out of a piece of ally. Tube to keep them in when
de-rigged. This is fastened to the seat back close to the spar pin
location, keeps them safe and clean.
Jim Naylor
Flyer no. 39
G-BVLV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Mycroft <j1mt(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | subscriber - Frank Mycroft |
I fall into your category 7 - that is I am contemplating the purchase of a Europa,
monowheel version, Rotax engine.
I flew G - YURO ages ago and have been a Wannabee ever since, but circumstances
have conspired to prevent me from ever starting to build, and if I don't simply
go and buy one I will be too old to fly it. So if anyone out there wants
to sell one, or knows someone who does, let me know at j1mt(at)clara.net
FRANK MYCROFT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New subscriber - Frank Mycroft |
Hi europa people , new guy to the list glider pilot currently flying a
kolb firestar. tired of flying alone want to take my wife etc. interested in
europa with the motorglider wing , anybody got any new info on same? cant
get any responce from europa UK.
Tim Mycroft how old are you? looks like these europas build pretty
fast .! Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Mycroft <j1mt(at)clara.net>
Date: Monday, May 18, 1998 6:25 PM
Subject: New subscriber - Frank Mycroft
>I fall into your category 7 - that is I am contemplating the purchase of a
Europa, monowheel version, Rotax engine.
>I flew G - YURO ages ago and have been a Wannabee ever since, but
circumstances have conspired to prevent me from ever starting to build, and
if I don't simply go and buy one I will be too old to fly it. So if anyone
out there wants to sell one, or knows someone who does, let me know at
j1mt(at)clara.net
>
>FRANK MYCROFT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Resasi <Resasi(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New subscriber - Frank Mycroft |
Frank,
there were four for sale at Kemble at varying prices and cofig's
all monowheel and I think at least two maybe three Subaru powered. Graham
Brunwin 01285 770291 or Martin Stoner or Melvin Cross. They were very helpful
and should be able to help you.
Resasi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New subscriber - Frank Mycroft |
>> anybody got any new info on same? cant
get any responce from europa UK<<
They have been overstretched finalising the XS load testing so the glider
has been delayed. There's a good chance it will progress now.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew S. Wainwright" <AndrewW(at)executek.com> |
How's this for bad luck... In talking to my girlfriend and her boss at
work (The company she works for is a client of mine). We recently got
bought out by a larger company and her boss asked, "So why haven't you
bought your DC-3 already" (I'm typed in a Super DC-3) I told him that
I was going to start building an airplane in January. He said,
"Everyone I know who does that ends up dead."
Took some recovery with the girlfriend after that comment.
Had to talk about 'hot' little homebuilts that stall at high speeds and
get ahead of their pilots. And how the Europa was such a nice,
pleasant, friendly airplane. I'll test fly the Europa in August, then
probably take my girlfriend up there in October when she first goes out
to the UK.. I'll make sure I prep the factory on selling how safe the
airplane is.
Isn't it amazing how many problems you can cause by one sentence, and
how much it takes to recover that. Ah well.
-Andrew
Building XS number ???
Starting January 1999.
"A ship in the harbor is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."
Brower
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
I presume that you plan on making her boss a permanent part of your
undercarriage to smooth out your landings!!
Tony
------------------------
From: "Andrew S. Wainwright" <AndrewW(at)executek.com>
Subject: Gee Thanks
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 16:51:29 +1200
> How's this for bad luck... In talking to my girlfriend and her boss at
> work (The company she works for is a client of mine). We recently got
> bought out by a larger company and her boss asked, "So why haven't you
> bought your DC-3 already" (I'm typed in a Super DC-3) I told him that
> I was going to start building an airplane in January. He said,
> "Everyone I know who does that ends up dead."
>
> Took some recovery with the girlfriend after that comment.
> Had to talk about 'hot' little homebuilts that stall at high speeds and
> get ahead of their pilots. And how the Europa was such a nice,
> pleasant, friendly airplane. I'll test fly the Europa in August, then
> probably take my girlfriend up there in October when she first goes out
> to the UK.. I'll make sure I prep the factory on selling how safe the
> airplane is.
>
> Isn't it amazing how many problems you can cause by one sentence, and
> how much it takes to recover that. Ah well.
>
> -Andrew
> Building XS number ???
> Starting January 1999.
>
> "A ship in the harbor is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."
> Brower
>
>
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Bob Berube is probably going to hate me for posting this...
Bob has a very nice diagram of a fuselage jig. It is constructed out of
timber which means those like me who can't weld can easily make it. You can
add wheels so you can _really_ confuse the neighbours by rolling your
fuselage down the street.
If I had received it a week ago I would have used it during my cockpit module
to fuselage mating [both enjoyed it and we expect to hear the squeaking of a
little undercarriage sometime in the future :-)], though the most useful
feature is being able to do all the rest of the work with the top off.
Tony
ps A tip for those bonding cockpit modules in. If you use screws and nuts
make sure the screws have cross heads. They are a lot easier to drill out
than slotted head screws. I know! We used 10 screws/nuts and 180 pop rivets
to keep everything in place.
---------------------------------------------------
Tony Krzyzewski tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
Managing Director Ph 64 9 520 4631
Kaon Technologies Fx 64 9 520 3321
Auckland New Zealand
Networkers visit www.kaon.co.nz
Aviators visit www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272index.html
and www.kaon.co.nz/saanz/
----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <Ted_Gladstone(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | pit Module bonding Tip |
>>
>>Tony Said:-
>>
>>ps A tip for those bonding cockpit modules in. If you use screws and nuts
>>make sure the screws have cross heads. They are a lot easier to drill out
>>than slotted head screws. I know! We used 10 screws/nuts and 180 pop
rivets
>>to keep everything in place.
>>-------------------------------------------
We used three 4" X 2" timber battens placed across the cockpit module: the
first packed up from midway along the tunnel to clear the fuselage sides,
the second over the tank and the third packed up from the rear of the
baggage bay tunnel. From each end of these battens we attacked large
turnbuckles. Straps (old car seat belts) were then slung under the
fuselage from the bottom of each turnbuckle and aligned under the main
bonding areas. By tightening the turnbuckles the cockpit module was
pressed down into the fuselage and the fuselage pulled up round it. The
result was a perfect close fitting join all round with no indents caused by
bolts etc on the outer skin. Only four bolts were used: two at the
front through the firewall to pull it forward and two at the rear sides to
maintain the original pre alignment.
Ted & Justin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MELVYNBS <MELVYNBS(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | viator/Europa XS article |
A recent conversation with Jim "Zoom" Campbell reveals that he
is working on an article for the next US Aviator Magazine on the
Europa XS. Ivan's bigger bird is getting all the good press! Now, about
those Looong Wings!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jnaylor(at)avnet.co.uk (Jim Naylor) |
Just thought I would give a follow up report on the installation of the LTS
fuel gauge, supplied by at Lyndhurst Tuchdown Services.
I have had time now since the installation to evaluate its operation, and
I'm pleased to say I am happy with it. It has proved to be reliable and
give consistent readings.
The installation proved slightly more difficult than anticipated, due to
the shape of my fuel tank top, which was anything but flat. Also I tried to
fit it as far back as possible, and found the thickness of the tank varies
considerably close to the edges. This caused problems with sealing as the
fittings are made from nylon, so clamping forces are low. I made a new
lower clamping plate from metal, which worked fine, but then the top plate
followed the shape of the tank rather than pulling the tank straight, and
that in turn caused problems with the measuring unit screwing in!. That
said, if the fitting position is flat, and not to close to the edge,
fitting should not be a problem.
The only down side to the system is the stepped readings, which personally
I do not find a problem, in fact it can be regarded as useful. I have made
a scale to fit over the gauge, calibrated to show the contents in litres.
The switches on the unit work on the safe side, so I know I will always
have slightly more in the tank than the gauge shows, so if I act on the
gauge contents there should be a built in safety factor.
All in all I think installing an alternate fuel gauge is well worth while.
Considering this type offers a remote reading capability at a very
reasonable price, it is worth a look at.
Jim Naylor
G-BVLV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | pit Module bonding Tip |
>> Straps (old car seat belts) were then slung under the
fuselage from the bottom of each turnbuckle and aligned under the main
bonding areas. By tightening the turnbuckles the cockpit module was
pressed down into the fuselage and the fuselage pulled up round it.<<
That sounds like the tip of the year! Thanks Ted
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com> |
Below are the latest changes that the Europeans have proposed. I thought you
should be made aware of them allowing you to implement them into the
manuals.
<>
Graham C. with due acknowledgements
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran <JohnJMoran(at)aol.com> |
I have recently cut the stainless for the firewall (Ch 33) and am unsure of
how to install the nutplates to hold the lower panel since they seem to be
located in the footwell whose floor was glassed into place long ago per
chapter 23. My current plan is to substitute sheet metal screws and
lockwashers. Anyone else run into this?
There are other murky areas in the order of assembly. For example, when can
the rudder pedal assemblies be permanently fitted? I can't seem to get the
stbd side panel of the firewall into place unless the rear pedal shaft is slid
out of the way. Can this side panel be permanently fitted and left in place
while the engine is installed? What about painting, does one remove the pedal
assemblies to paint the footwells and fit carpeting? Or just bag them in
plastic? Can they be removed and installed with the engine installed?
What about the tunnel bulkhead? The manual implies that the flap drive rod is
removed and the bulkhead glassed in place followed by opening the slot. I
assume this means that one gets the drive rod fitted and adjusted, measures
its location and relative movement at the point where it will pass through the
bulkhead and then cuts an elongated hole with about 1/4" clearance prior to
glassing. Will this hole then be large enough to allow insertion of the flap
drive rod given all its kinks and bends or does the hole need to be larger to
allow assembly? Is the rod fitted by passing it from the rear forward or up
through the tunnel from the front with the gear removed? Can a plug be
attached to the rod such that it will stopper the opening around the flap rod
in the flaps-up position? Is this a good idea?
I've had the main gear on and off several times already, first to verify
clearance for the LA mod, then to allow moving the fuselage around, then to
allow access for installation of the gear switch. Now I need to attach the
gear again to move the fuselage around to allow bonding the wing pins in
place. Then remove the gear to ease glassing the tunnel bulkhead. Fortunately
I didn't install the bungee or brakes permanently yet. I remain reluctant to
install anything permanently for fear that it will require removal to allow
access to something else that I hadn't thought of.
Am I the victim of my own poor planning or is all this on-and-off of various
parts appropriate and necessary? Has anyone written an order of assembly to
minimize this aspect?
John A044 Newtown, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <dg(at)xpsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: United Europe |
Hi, Graham.
"...with due acknowledgments".... I presume you mean to thank George Bernard
Shaw? :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Gramin <Gramin(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, May 22, 1998 4:04 AM
Subject: United Europe
Below are the latest changes that the Europeans have proposed. I thought you
should be made aware of them allowing you to implement them into the
manuals.
<>
Graham C. with due acknowledgements
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
>>I have recently cut the stainless for the firewall My current plan is to
substitute sheet metal screws and
lockwashers. <<
Should be OK. You can mount the nutplates from the outside by cutting a
recess, countersinking the nutplate then pop riveting.
Much easier is to fit one of my phenolic firewalls. It fits forward of the
rudder cross tubes so provides a complete closure.
Downside is that it's harder to change the gear elastic. Can be done
though.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | citance Fuel Tank Gauging System |
I have fitted a twin Westach Probe system with dual gauge. The
modification has now been approved by the PFA - if anyone is interested in
the drawings, please let me know.
regards,
Mike Parkin (No 312, G-JULZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parkin <MParkin(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | citance Fuel Tank Gauging System |
I have fitted a twin Westach Probe system with dual gauge. The
modification has now been approved by the PFA - if anyone is interested in
the drawings, please let me know.
regards,
Mike Parkin (No 312, G-JULZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | le Terror and United Europe |
Any update from TERRA owners on the reliability and after sales service for
the radios and transponders?
Jerry
PS - Eurish - not strictly Europa newsgroup oriantated but I was pleased it
was posted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Trible Terror and United Europe |
In message <896029677.2012948.0(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk>, Jerry
writes
March 09, 1998 - May 25, 1998
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-as