Europa-Archive.digest.vol-bk
July 03, 2000 - August 13, 2000
well be others out there besides those mentioned already.
regards
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Higgins" <ghiggins(at)norex.com.au> |
The best method for flattening the flox over ribs (IMHO) was shown me by
Hank Kauffman, the first to fly in Australia, ( aka Bart Henks in NZ
apparently). I had tried several other ideas, and found this the
simplest and easiest. It is easier on the flat, but still works vertical
- with a stiff mix.
Mask the edges, apply a stiff mix flox to just overfill, and use the
plastic squeege as a screeding board, as in screeding concrete. Forget
the plastic - I found that more trouble than it was worth. If you look
like you have Parkinsons Disease with the sideways tremor, as you slowly
advance along the groove, it will be about right. As with concrete, the
surface tends to smooth and liquify. If you advance too quickly, it will
tend to underfill, and too slowly, or let too much build up ahead of the
squeege, it will tend to overfill and working vertical top to bottom
will tend to underfill and bottom to top, overfill.
Practice on some scrap. It is not as hard as it sounds. However, it is
true that the stuff shrinks, no matter how perfect you leave it.
G N Higgins in OZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Bob.. the URL you showed is bogus...
>Dennis Douglas
Oops . . . was logged into the hard-drive version when I
captured the URL to my clipboard. You can find it on my website
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Thanks for the heads up!
>"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>> >Amp makes a tool available through Newark Electronics or you can order
>> >direct from Amp on their web page. I recall that both of these connectors
>> >take the same crimper. It's called a Service Tool II but I don't have a
>> >part number.
>>
>> I was going to stock this tool . . . tried to order a couple
>> dozen and was informed that AMP has discontinued it. It was
>> one of best values around in a low-cost open-barrel crimper.
>> Very well made compared to some of the tools I've been evaluating
>> over the past month.
>>
>> We've finally decided on one and have inquiries out to
>> several warehouses that stock them. See how it works at:
>>
>> file:///D|/0_WEBSIT/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
>>
>> I hope to put this tool in our website catalog for about the
>> same price as what the Service Tool II would have cost.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk |
| Subject: | 70lb weight upgrage on Europa. |
F.A.O David Pit Esq.
Back from Hols ! called to see Roger today he said to e-mail you that he is
preparing the detail you require and will forward it by snail mail.
Should you require any references ...... he is the retired Chief Engineer of
the Local Dunlop Oil and Marine. Andy Draper at Europa Aircraft will provide
you unbiased reference of his capability , we have a PFA Inspector at
Winterton Nr. Scunthorpe.who would provide the necessary scrutiny of any
work you require.Just out of interest I have a covered Trailer suitable for
Europa Trike's.
Regards
Bob Harrison. Kit337 G-PTAG Jabiru 3300 (Eventually!)
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk |
| Subject: | Home made antenna's |
Attention of Tony Renshaw Esq.
Twice I tried to e-mail you but had it returned as " Storage System Full" so
I guess you must be on holiday ! So I'm trying to "patch " this through to
you on the Europa Circuit
Regards
Bob H. G-PTAG
Subject: FW: Home made antenna's
Resend of returned mail
Subject: RE: Home made antenna's
Hi! Tony.
There's really not a lot to tell , other than follow Jim's advices, with
regards to angular displacement 's and lengths , and arrangement of toroids
etc. since you can't adjust any of it after layup! I found that it is best
to put them in the leading edge so the tail is already then at the spar.
I just stuck the copper tape down and glassed over them having fixed some
domestic plastic conduit ( down which was threaded the co-axial) down the
push rod void, making absolutely sure there is no contact from the tube,
because you will be a pretty sick guy if after all .........!!!!
I took extensive photo and measurement records to be sure the correct
antenna was ultimately
Identified for the correct purpose. Once it is all painted you have no
chance of reviewing your efforts !!!!
Hope this helps .
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Sent: 23 June 2000 13:53
Subject: RE: Home made antenna's
Bob,
With your below the skin aerials, is there any advice you can give as to
how to do this well?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
>Hi! Paul.
>I bought some good advice and instructions from RST Engineering .
>13429Grass Valley Ave.Grass Valley, CA 95945
>(916) 272-2203 (voice and fax.)
>E-mail:- rst-engr(at)oro.net
>www.rst-eng.com
> Jim Weir was the guy who designed the communications for the "VOYAGER"
>circumnavigation.
>His package not only gives advice and technical info' but also all the
>copper tape you will ever need c/w all the toroids you will need . It's by
>the way that I have more unused antenna in my aircraft than I care to
>remember ! But at least they are all very light weight and can be put under
>the wing skin during construction.
>I've only got one 3" transponder antenna in the airflow to cause drag !.
>Regards
>Bob Harrison Europa 337 trike Jabiru 3300 G-PTAG.
>
>
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
| Subject: | SkySport fuel probes |
I have just finished installing two SkySports capacitance probes for
fuel quantity measurement.
Being somewhat ponderous (mostly out of fear of screwing up a
purchase), I began step-by-step to follow the instructions given with
these devices. As I stumbled ahead, I began to notice the true process
in putting these #$%
together..... and chronicled same.
If you wish to save about 50% effort and time, perhaps the following
text will enlighten you. What makes me angry is the thought that, being
wiser, you have already done these and failed to tell me........
Essentially, one (if like me) bends and cuts the probes - of
coaxially-mounted fine brass tubing central to quarter-inch aluminum
tube courtesy of minute plastic spacers - then assembles the heads and
installs same into tank top. What really happens is you fail to wrestle
the mounting flange into the 2-3/8in. tank hole, drop things into the
hole, fish the bolts into the head, leave out the gasket and start
again. then having got one bolt into place, discover that none of the
other holes align, and start again.
Using my patented process detailed below, the SECOND probe
mounts in a few seconds. It's called SLOW LEARNER, but I digress.
Initially, I hoped to duplicate Nigel Charles' neat installation, and
he kindly sent me the details of drilling and centring the tank top and
headrest shelf holes. I rejoiced in the heady success I achieved in
siting these - a pair of holes each, into which to mount two probes,
one for the port 'saddle' and all fuel above it (the "MAIN"), and one to
fathom the depth of the starboard 'saddle' (the "RESERVE"). The latter,
if you followed my earlier epic on tank quantity, being approx. 11
litres.
There are FOUR cautions to be observed here.
ONE is that no water is to touch the probes - this being tantamount to a
'short', giving a false FULL reading. So, the probes should not favour
the back of the tank which will be lower at rest and thus the target of
water distilled in temperature changes within the tank;
TWO is the care to avoid touching the cage in the tank outlet
(especially the water-drain mod), this being another no-no since it
destroys accurate
measurement;
THREE is that if one inserts a grounding strap through the vent or
fueling holes, it must not reach the probe (at any time as in aeros,
thumpy landings, etc) for the same reason as TWO; and
FOUR contains the caution that in this system, one can only select one
probe reading or the other, since both read total head - not a feasible
number. Thus the total is a reading of MAIN, plus a mental 11 litres or
so (RESERVE) initially.
Kindly step this way, folks:
SkySport happily note that the mounting scheme conforms to an FAA
pattern - five holes, two centre-to-centre at 35mm, the adjoining pair
at 30mm, and a further pair at 32mm. Having absorbed all these hardwon
observations, you now acquire an AN3-13 bolt of any persuasion - it
being used only as a tool. Forget the wire scheme in the instructions.
1. Find the widespread holes in the probe head and mark with white
pencil. Find also the same pair in both the cork gasket and the mounting
flange. Mark the flange on the edge with a black marker where the
widespraed holes are, and do the same on the edge of the cork gasket. It
is now possible to align all three fairly quickly.
2. Decide which way up for the top of the probe head (readability and
calibration when installed).
3. Bend the top section of a bendable probe such that the bottom is
clear of the tank floor and does not reach back into the potential water
area. Cut probe to length per instructions and be sure to save the tiny
'spacers' for the new end.
4. Insert the 3-13 bolt into the head, in a hole next to the flange
cutout area, add the cork gasket under the head (alignment!), and then
the flange - suitably aligned per the markings. Thread the bolt only
slightly into the flange - and keep the gasket and head near the top.
5. Insert the probe, align it to the task, then drop the flange to the
hole, and using the bolt as a handle, manoeuvre the flange into the
hole, cutout first. By pulling on the bolt and lowering head and gasket
to the surface, one has a handle to rotate the internal flange until the
inevitable alignment permits entry of the first AN3-9 attachment bolt.
From there, all four further bolts can replace the borrowed AN3-13
handle' which reverts to its pack in the kit.
...........and as we say in Paris Nord-Roissy, "voila".
This where I say that the second probe goes in at 50% of the time
of the first.
If you are not installing this dual-probe system, don't read this
message.
Happy landings,
Ferg #A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Tony:
Like others I am sending via the net because:
----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
tonyrenshaw(at)hotmail.com (expanded from: )
Let us know when you are back on, and will send proper mail.
There are, I believe, three/seven Greek Muses of the Arts (Muses
are minor gods in Greek Mythology). Terpsicore (turpsickery) is the Muse
of the Dance. One picture I sent shows my buddy following me into the
house, carrying the tip end of a leading edge layup. He has noted my
bride photoing, and lifted his rear fetlock in mock dance. Now you know.
Incidentally, it also indicates the marvellous way in which I
managedthe team - keeping spirits up and co-ordinating the process in a
magnificent way. Anyway, the Terpsicore part is true.
Happy landings,
Ferg A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
The recent damage to a Europa due to static discharge during fueling inspired
addition of tank grounding to my plane. The information at the sites
suggested by Fred Fillinger was most helpful in deciding how to proceed:
www.chevron.com/prodserv/bulletin/product%5Fsafety.html
www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/prevention/flammable_static.html
Initial measurements of the resistance of the various fuel lines with an
ohmmeter showed that the large filler hose is conductive but seems to have a
thin interior layer which insulates the conductive outside from the fuel
flowing through it.
The short sections of 1" hose used on the tank outlets are conductive. The
small bore cotton covered line used aft of the firewall is also conductive.
Apparently, Europa recognized the static discharge possibility and took steps
to avoid it by using conductive hose. Unfortunately, US fuel contains
various chemicals which reportedly attack the small bore hose supplied,
causing it to deteriorate more quickly than desired. In an attempt to avoid
this deterioration, I replaced much of the small bore hose with hose from the
auto store but after reading of the static problem noted above found that
this auto hose was non-conductive. Thus, in attempting to avoid one problem
I introduced another.
Interpreting advice from this forum as well as the sites noted above, the
following was done:
The outside of the aluminum fuel filler where it contacts the filler hose was
lightly sanded with fine paper to remove the anodizing which is an insulator.
The inside of this fitting was also sanded on the lower half inch to aid
contact with the fuel filler nozzle. While the insulation breakdown voltage
of the anodized finish is not high, these steps make it easier to evaluate
the results with an ohmmeter.
A short piece of safety wire was twisted onto the gauge vent fitting and run
under the hose clamp used to hold the top of the filler hose. A ground wire
was added under this hose clamp and connected to the aircraft ground at the
connection to the strobe supply which was nearby. The gauge vent provides a
convenient fitting for insertion of a banana plug or a small clip lead for
grounding, plus it is easy to keep a finger on this to maintain a ground
while fueling.
A wire was run under the hose clamps between the 1" tank outlet fittings to
connect these fittings together, then back to join the ground at the strobe.
The ohmmeter shows that all the targeted fittings are connected and in
addition wherever the original cotton covered line has not been replaced
there is a resistive connection.
One additional wire is planned between the engine ground and the
undercarriage to provide grounding via the conductive mainwheel tire - this
will be added when the lower cowl is next removed.
Of course, there is always a question remaining: should a section of safety
wire be added such that it extends from the filler fitting down inside the
filler pipe or is this superfluous due to a low breakdown voltage of the
interior insulating layer in the filler hose?
John, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | SkySport fuel probes |
Message text written by Fergus Kyle
>Insert the 3-13 bolt into the head, in a hole next to the flange
cutout area, add the cork gasket under the head (alignment!), and then
the flange - suitably aligned per the markings. Thread the bolt only
slightly into the flange - and keep the gasket and head near the top.
5. Insert the probe, align it to the task, then drop the flange to the
hole, and using the bolt as a handle, manoeuvre the flange into the
hole, cutout first. By pulling on the bolt and lowering head and gasket
to the surface, one has a handle to rotate the internal flange until the
inevitable alignment permits entry of the first AN3-9 attachment bolt.<
Thanks for your comments on this fiddly procedure. I don't understand how
you manage to 'post' the flange through the hole in the tank with the probe
attached? Perhaps I am missing something or you are using a much larger
hole? Although the smaller hole I describe in the club mod makes initial
installation of the flange a little more tricky the seal area is much
larger. Also once the 2 additional flat head retaining screws are fitted
any subsequent probe removal is easy. Certainly marking the head,gasket and
flange help to ensure correct alignment as the bolt hole spacing is
irregular.
>one can only select one probe reading or the other, since both read total
head - not a feasible number. Thus the total is a reading of MAIN, plus a
mental 11 litres or so (RESERVE) initially.<
I found that using the twin needle gauge you have a pretty good idea of the
levels each side of the tank. If you want a gauge to read quantity rather
than level then some electronics and an LCD display would be the way to go.
I will be working on that in the near future.
>if one inserts a grounding strap through the vent or
fueling holes, it must not reach the probe (at any time as in aeros,
thumpy landings, etc)<
Good point. I haven't checked to see whether the probe outer tube is at
earth potential. If it is then an earth strap within the tank is
unnecessary but if it isn't the probe must not touch an earth strap (or
anything else which is earthed for that matter).
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Grounds |
>The recent damage to a Europa due to static discharge during fueling inspired
>addition of tank grounding to my plane. The information at the sites
>suggested by Fred Fillinger was most helpful in deciding how to proceed:
>The ohmmeter shows that all the targeted fittings are connected and in
>addition wherever the original cotton covered line has not been replaced
>there is a resistive connection.
>One additional wire is planned between the engine ground and the
>undercarriage to provide grounding via the conductive mainwheel tire - this
>will be added when the lower cowl is next removed.
I'm now firmly of the opinion that solid Aluminum fuel lines from the tank
outlet to the firewall is the best answer. I ran the line from the pump to
the firewall along the top of the tunnel to within 5 inches of the firewall
then up through the top of the tunnel , placed to miss any instruments etc.
to a couple of inches above the tunnel. Then I used a 45 degree bulkhead
type fitting (AN837-6D) to take it through the firewall, (the fixed part
not the bit of stainless steel.)
The soft aluminum tube was held in place with 2 plies of BID over most of
its length.
I am still head scratching about the mechanism of this static generation
problem, bear in mind I have a part share in a Long EZ too. I wonder if the
contra flow of fuel versus air has any bearing on it? Any ideas?
Graham
>Of course, there is always a question remaining: should a section of safety
>wire be added such that it extends from the filler fitting down inside the
>filler pipe or is this superfluous due to a low breakdown voltage of the
>interior insulating layer in the filler hose?
>
>John, A044
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Robert:
I know you sometimes follow the Europa net and wonder if you have
encountered a recent thread concerning a german Europa which burned
after the fuel fumes were ignited during refuelling?
The discussion concerns the grounding of plastic containers, fuel lines
and tanks due to their production of unrequited static caused by
gasolene rushing/sloshing in plastic. There was some talk also of
rerouting vent lines away from (1) the roof and/or (2) the fuel
inlet....
(1) dripping fuel thru the vent in upset/crash.......(2) ejcting fumes
near the fuelling inlet.
Your comments always seem cogent.......
Ferg Kyle
Europa A064 (#319)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ernauld roadshow |
If you're looking for something to do this weekend, there is a PFA roadshow at
Cumbernauld (between Edinburgh and Glasgow). If you wish to fly in or visit, please
contact the PFA for details on: 01273 461616.
Regrettably Europa Aircraft Company Ltd will not be attending, so please go along
to help show our support.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Simpson" <Dave_Simpson(at)londonweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static grounding |
All,
I am almost completely sure that the most significant generator of static on
plastic craft is not due to sloshing of fuel, but movement of the aeroplane
through the air. Here's why:
1. The aeroplane skin presents a much greater area susceptible to static
generation than the fuel lines and filler.
2. Plastic fuel cans, which are good insulators, are routinely sold for
spare fuel for cars. they are carried in the back and slosh around for
years in some cases. I have never heard of one exploding when opened by a
grounded user.
3. Plastic fuel tanks are used in cars and tank explosions are unheard
of. Static generated by passage through the air by the vehicle itself,
however, is almost routine.
It is important that we recognise the source, otherwise we can't address it
properly. For my money, an adequate protection would be local grounding of
the fuselage near the filler cap, either by the pilot, or by permanently
installed means (which I suggested in an earlier mailing).
Dave Simpson
-----Original Message-----
From: Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca>
Date: 05 July 2000 14:21
Subject: Static grounding
>Robert:
> I know you sometimes follow the Europa net and wonder if you have
>encountered a recent thread concerning a german Europa which burned
>after the fuel fumes were ignited during refuelling?
> The discussion concerns the grounding of plastic containers, fuel lines
>and tanks due to their production of unrequited static caused by
>gasolene rushing/sloshing in plastic. There was some talk also of
>rerouting vent lines away from (1) the roof and/or (2) the fuel
>inlet....
>(1) dripping fuel thru the vent in upset/crash.......(2) ejcting fumes
>near the fuelling inlet.
> Your comments always seem cogent.......
>Ferg Kyle
>Europa A064 (#319)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Dave,
I think that you are on the right track with the production of the
static. As far as I know the German burned out plane had just landed
from a long flight in hot weather and wanted to fill up.
IMHO if the can and the filler neck are at the same potential then no
spark can be produced. I have screwed a self tapping screw into the
filler flange and connect this with a crocodile clip to my cans.
I hope that this is enough!!!!
Best regards
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | uel like an....... |
Message text written by INTERNET:fkyle(at)bigwave.ca
> I don't know how TIGHT
to clamp the head, though. Do you suppose the clamped tank ceiling will
'creep' under pressure? Also, how proud of the shelf are the heads on
your machone, as I was hoping to raise the tank somewhat from specified
level in the manual. It seems to me it should not be too low next the
belly....but the heads may pop up onto the shelf? Cover of some sort?<
Once you have fully compressed the gasket there is little point tightening
much further for fuel sealing purposes but you may wish to tighten a little
more to ensure the head is ultimately secure (don't forget the wire
locking) I partially filled my tank and inverted it a week after
installation and it didn't leak but cannot be sure what the long term
'creep' situation will be. At least this is at the top of the tank so the
seal is only under pressure whilst there is still fuel in the filler hose.
Personally I am more concerned with the security of the seal in the other
apertures (filler, vent and fuel outlets). However it seems that there
hasn't been much trouble in those areas so I have reasonable cause to have
faith with the head seals.
When I fitted my tank (several years ago) the factory instructions were not
very good as it looked as though it could be fitted so that it was almost
touching the fuselage floor. This I tried to do so that the heads did not
protrude above the shelf. All was well until I tried to install the wings
in the module and found that the tank overhang intruded into the space for
the spars. Having refitted the tank so that it clears the spars about half
of the head protrudes above the shelf. By using suitable thickness of foam
sheet and trim material I was able to have a removable shelf cover (the
foam was removed in the head areas leaving just the trim to cover the
heads). The cover was attached using velcro strips.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Grounds |
You need three things to ignite gasoline vapor.
(1) Air (i.e., oxygen), (2) proper air/fuel vapor
ratio, and (3) a spark.
The spark needed for ignition isn't much, less
than 1 milliJoule in the right conditions, and on
the order of what's produced by static shocks we
experience. But for fuel flowing in fuel lines, I
doubt you can generate that at the relative
snail's pace of fuel flow there, plus it has to
arc somehow too. And you have or little or no
air, and if you did, the air/fuel mixture's too
rich.
Static can also be generated in nonconductive
filler tubes and plastic tanks, but I've seen it
stated, although not in an authoritative source,
that the fuel there is always way too rich to be a
problem. Consider what a "flooded" gasoline
engine is, namely one with some liquid fuel in the
induction system and/or cylinders. But it won't
start, and that's with compression of the
air/fuel, and the ignition system's spark is many
times the minimum energy needed. So the reasoning
goes, with gobs of wet fuel in the filler tube and
tank, no spark short of massive, will do
anything. This then argues that once you're past
the filler neck, you're home free.
This is consistent with the general advice, here
and elsewhere, to use metal containers, and
short-circuit the filler neck and source
container, directly, and additionally thru common
earth ground if the source tank is not grounded.
It is interesting to note that Chevron can cite
only 25 reported fires in 6 years in the U.S., and
mostly involving pickups with bedliners. Consider
the tens of millions of times annually that
people, often not following their advice -- watch
'em some time, fill plastic containers, or boats
or ATV's with plastic fuel tanks and insulated on
trailers, etc., etc. A fueling fire appears to be
a very rare event, even with unsafe fueling
practices, and should logically approach zero
probability if done properly.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
JohnJMoran(at)aol.com wrote (in part):
>
> Apparently, Europa recognized the static discharge possibility and took steps
> to avoid it by using conductive hose. Unfortunately, US fuel contains
> various chemicals which reportedly attack the small bore hose supplied,
> causing it to deteriorate more quickly than desired. In an attempt to avoid
> this deterioration, I replaced much of the small bore hose with hose from the
> auto store but after reading of the static problem noted above found that
> this auto hose was non-conductive. Thus, in attempting to avoid one problem
> I introduced another.
> (snip)
> Of course, there is always a question remaining: should a section of safety
> wire be added such that it extends from the filler fitting down inside the
> filler pipe or is this superfluous due to a low breakdown voltage of the
> interior insulating layer in the filler hose?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Cheers:
I stand corrected.... and thank God for that.
I was under the impression that the static was formed during fuelling
from the movement of fuel trough ungrounded and therefore potential
routes near fumes. I note a number of corrections to the effect that the
aircraft generates far more in travel through the air, and that suitable
conditions (3) are required.
Nevertheless, I don't disregard that I could be refuelling after a
flight so the source of sparking is not always the only consideration?;
...that one must ensure continuity from source to tank?... and that the
least attractive condition is wafting fumes from the vent over the
fuelling inlet?
I just mused that a braid strap from inlet to tank was a good thing,
and that perhaps it should show continuity through to engine ground and
u/c tyre. Am I wrong?
Happy landings
Ferg A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | lems with the list |
For a little while some people have been denied the ability to post messages to
the list, the list server software rejects their messages. The usual cause of
this is that the sender's email address is not the one that they subscribed
under (sometimes masked by the redirection for incoming mail of the original
address to the new address, perhaps by the admin staff running the office email
system).
In the cases I refer to, though, the sender is still apparently validly
subscribed. In fact it did it to me yesterday, though it still lists me as a
subscriber (stranger, the message id it invents for bounced messages contains
the username of my previous email address, which I unsubscribed and stopped
using last year - there is no way it should be harbouring and using this). The
list server software is clearly having the odd problem.
I do not have the facility to do anything about this. The only remedy, if it
That appears to work.
If your message to the list does not appear, feel free to mail me and I will
look to see if it has been bounced. I usually collect my messages daily. As a
matter of routine I trawl for bounced messages every 2 or 3 days.
Regards,
John Cliff
#0259
Europa Club List Forum minder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>I think that you are on the right track with the production of the
>static. As far as I know the German burned out plane had just landed
>from a long flight in hot weather and wanted to fill up.
Thats correct I believe. The refueling was done from a metal can, through a
metal funnel but the funnel had a plastic extension, so that the funnel did
not earth itself to the filler neck.
I think also the spark and fire occurred towards the end of the fueling
cycle. This puzzles me somewhat because you would think any early spark
would have discharged the static. The other factor in fire risk is
vapour/air ratio. It has to be optimum or it won't fire. Does fuel/air
vapour conduct easier than air for example?
I would like to understand this accident if only to know what the common
factors are.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
I have just been looking at Bob Jacobsens excellent site at
http://www.galaxyhobby.com/europa.htm
and have downloaded nearly every photo. Now I am surprised that the need
has never arisen in the past, but I had a bit of trouble viewing these
things, eventually resorting to paintbrush. There must be a better way,
and maybe someone can recommend one of the many JPEG viewer programs
available from:
http://download.cnet.com/downloads/1,10150,0-10001-103-0-1-7,00.html?tag=st%
2Edl%2E10001%2Esbsr&qt=JPEG&cn=&ca=10001
or any other available site. Any advice on a user friendly viewer would be
appreciated
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Cripps" <david.cripps(at)spsystems.com> |
| Subject: | osite props in the rain |
I have been advised that composite props, like wooden ones, if not protected
with a metal leading edge, can suffer pitting damage if flown in rain. VP
Props such as the Arplast PV50 seem to be very popular and successful within
the Europa community, yet do not have a metal leading edge. What are
people's experiences with props like these in the rain? How can any damage
be avoided? Does self-adhesive prop tape (such as I saw on one Europa's PV50
at Cranfield) solve the problem or does it just create aerodynamic ones
instead?
Any thoughts gratefully received.
David Cripps
(GBWJH)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Composite props in the rain |
>I have been advised that composite props, like wooden ones, if not protected
>with a metal leading edge, can suffer pitting damage if flown in rain. VP
>Props such as the Arplast PV50 seem to be very popular and successful within
>the Europa community, yet do not have a metal leading edge.
David,
We had a PV50 for a few years and had very little damage to the prop. I
never saw any rain damage, stone damage of course occasionally happened but
was relatively easy to repair.
We never used prop tape. I never felt confident it would stay on in hot
weather. I have a friend whose prop tape came off in flight (Kitfox). He
said the vibration was extreme, he was afraid the engine might fall out.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Mycroft <frankm(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | ic Discharge when fuelling |
Graham's further information about the incident begs lots more questions
which only the people involved can answer, and we should try and get
answers from them if possible.
For example, 1. How many people were involved in the refuelling process.
Was someone holding the funnel and someone else pouring from the can. In
that event the discharge might have been from one person via the can to the
other holding the funnel. 2. Was he, or were they, wearing rubber soled
shoes, or what. 3. What sort of clothing were they wearing. The rubbing
of their clothing could have caused a build up of static. 4. Just before
the discharge had he, or they changed position, touched something else. 5.
Was there thunder in the air.
There are so many possible sources of the static, and reasons for its
sudden discharge that only a very detailed description of the incident is
likely to lead us to the reason for what is, in practice, a very unusual
incident, but a very dangerous one nevertheless.
Frank Mycroft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
I believe there have been cases of cracking of the glass around the
hinges.It has been suggested that I fit an extra aileron hinge outboard of
the inner balance weight and add extra plies of uni at the hinge positions
on wing and aileron. Factory believes these mods are unnecessary. Any
comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jonathan milbank" <jonathan(at)eiky.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | jonathan(at)eiky.freeserve.co.uk |
----- Original Message -----
From: jonathan milbank
Subject: jonathan(at)eiky.freeserve.co.uk
Greetings. I'm Jonathan Milbank living near Aberdeen in darkest
Scotland. Europa # 54 reg. G-EIKY was built largely by me between
January 1994 and July 1997 and has logged 175 hours in the last 3 years.
I have formed EUROPA G-EIKY GROUP to share the delights of "europa-ing"
with three other fine fellows, one of whom bravely flew from here to
Cranfield last month, so some of you might have seen our first-time
visitor to the Rally. Please add my name to your mailing list, thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | w words from Europa |
At the AGM of the Europa Club at Cranfield on June 24th, Keith Wilson, the
managing director of Europa Aircraft Company Ltd was asked to say a few words to
the meeting. It was not a prepared speech, the invitation came at short notice.
The following is a summary of Keith's remarks, for the interest of Club
members..
With the announcement of the Liberty XL-2 (the factory-built Europa cousin)
questions have been raised over the future of the kit aircraft company. Europa
Aircraft is not affected by the announcement and will continue in business in
the future. They have a target and intention of selling many more Europa kits,
to take total sales to at least a thousand.
The design of the Europa XS is essentially now mature, no further major
developments are planned, though changes may be incorporated in the light of
service experience and of customer requests. The glider wings in production
form (carbon fibre spar) are being tested prior to the start of manufacture.
A popular suggestion for a future version of the Europa is an 'ultralight'
variant (this means to the European SLA code, not a US Part 103 machine!). This
would mean a weight reduction and an engineering study into this possibility has
already been carried out. However a business case would also have to be made
for such a development, it being notoriously expensive to design weight out of
an existing design to a significant degree.
Another suggestion is a 4 seat variant. [Sounds like a whole new design.]
In Europa a 'National PPL' class of licence seems to be threatening to emerge.
The company has been in discussion with the CAA (regulatory body) about the
status of the Europa in the context of such a licence. Europa (monowheel) is
presently viewed as a 'complex' aircraft because of its retractable
undercarriage (and because of the VP propeller, if fitted). The company are
seeking a waiver on these items, though if this is not obtained it may review
the situation.
The company is becoming concerned at the number of aftermarket (i.e.
non-factory) conventional taildragger conversions which are appearing, feeling
that their ability to support the design and their builders will be impaired.
They intend to carry out a review of the alternatives and see if any meet their
'requirements'. If they find one it might be 'approved' or recommended in some
way or the company might decide to take a more active role.
In response to a question from the floor about VP propellers, Keith said that
the company is again evaluating the available VP props, and he mentioned three
which seemed promising.
1. Kremen. Used by Tom Justic on his Europa. We site is
www.kremen.cz
2. Airmaster. Availability is currently a problem. Web sites - see
Tony Krzyzewski's site and www.propellor.com
3. Whirlwind. Used by Kim Prout on his Europa. Web site is
www.whirlwindpropellers.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Tony,
Why not just set the jpeg file extensions to be viewed using your
web-browser?
Cheers, Pete
Europa wannabe
Osh - here I come! (I can hardly wait for my demo flights :-)
-----Original Message-----
Subject: JPEG Viewing
Gidday,
I have just been looking at Bob Jacobsens excellent site at
http://www.galaxyhobby.com/europa.htm
and have downloaded nearly every photo. Now I am surprised that the need
has never arisen in the past, but I had a bit of trouble viewing these
things, eventually resorting to paintbrush. There must be a better way,
and maybe someone can recommend one of the many JPEG viewer programs
available from:
http://download.cnet.com/downloads/1,10150,0-10001-103-0-1-7,00.html?tag=st%
2Edl%2E10001%2Esbsr&qt=JPEG&cn=&ca=10001
or any other available site. Any advice on a user friendly viewer would be
appreciated
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
| Subject: | A few words from Europa |
Thanks for the great info John,
Hmmmm.. This has me worried.
If Europa is only planning on producing the Europa till the 1000-mark, How
close are they to that now, and how long will that take?
I hope that they will continue to produce the monowheel variant for the
North American market, regardless of the European regulations...
Thanks,
Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: A few words from Europa
At the AGM of the Europa Club at Cranfield on June 24th, Keith Wilson, the
managing director of Europa Aircraft Company Ltd was asked to say a few
words to
the meeting. It was not a prepared speech, the invitation came at short
notice.
The following is a summary of Keith's remarks, for the interest of Club
members..
With the announcement of the Liberty XL-2 (the factory-built Europa cousin)
questions have been raised over the future of the kit aircraft company.
Europa
Aircraft is not affected by the announcement and will continue in business
in
the future. They have a target and intention of selling many more Europa
kits,
to take total sales to at least a thousand.
The design of the Europa XS is essentially now mature, no further major
developments are planned, though changes may be incorporated in the light of
service experience and of customer requests. The glider wings in production
form (carbon fibre spar) are being tested prior to the start of manufacture.
A popular suggestion for a future version of the Europa is an 'ultralight'
variant (this means to the European SLA code, not a US Part 103 machine!).
This
would mean a weight reduction and an engineering study into this possibility
has
already been carried out. However a business case would also have to be
made
for such a development, it being notoriously expensive to design weight out
of
an existing design to a significant degree.
Another suggestion is a 4 seat variant. [Sounds like a whole new design.]
In Europa a 'National PPL' class of licence seems to be threatening to
emerge.
The company has been in discussion with the CAA (regulatory body) about the
status of the Europa in the context of such a licence. Europa (monowheel)
is
presently viewed as a 'complex' aircraft because of its retractable
undercarriage (and because of the VP propeller, if fitted). The company are
seeking a waiver on these items, though if this is not obtained it may
review
the situation.
The company is becoming concerned at the number of aftermarket (i.e.
non-factory) conventional taildragger conversions which are appearing,
feeling
that their ability to support the design and their builders will be
impaired.
They intend to carry out a review of the alternatives and see if any meet
their
'requirements'. If they find one it might be 'approved' or recommended in
some
way or the company might decide to take a more active role.
In response to a question from the floor about VP propellers, Keith said
that
the company is again evaluating the available VP props, and he mentioned
three
which seemed promising.
1. Kremen. Used by Tom Justic on his Europa. We site is
www.kremen.cz
2. Airmaster. Availability is currently a problem. Web sites - see
Tony Krzyzewski's site and www.propellor.com
3. Whirlwind. Used by Kim Prout on his Europa. Web site is
www.whirlwindpropellers.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Hickey <kghickey(at)cybertours.com> |
> maybe someone can recommend one of the many JPEG viewer programs
> available
> Tony Renshaw
Hi All,
I would recommend a freeware program called Irfan View. It has a handy
feature that lets you advance through a directory of .JPG or other
graphic files in full screen view with one mouse click or key stroke for
each file. It has many other useful features. You can download it from.
http://stud1.tuwien.ac.at/~e9227474/
Good luck and happy viewing,
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | A few words from Europa |
>Thanks for the great info John,
>
>Hmmmm.. This has me worried.
>
>If Europa is only planning on producing the Europa till the 1000-mark, How
>close are they to that now, and how long will that take?
As I understood Keith's remarks, they will continue as long as the market
continues to be healthy.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | l Parts Treatment |
Gidday all,
I want to find out how to prep my steel parts of my flight control system
prior to painting? I have a Boeing spec Green paint that I will use over
the top, but was wondering what I should clean the surface with first? I am
happy with the alodine/anzapon system for aluminium, but now I am
interested in the steel stuff.
Standing by for tips/advice, please?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday again,
My front flight control tufnol block for my flight controls, the one in the
footwell, has an offset centreline of the hole such that about 1/3 of the
way through it wanders. The result is that the metal component slides home
and has a rattling loose fit with about .3-.5mm gap between it and the
tufnol, and that it is obviously not correctly bearing throughout the depth
of the bearing. I worry this tufnol may wear, albeit slowly, such that even
if I take up some of the slack with paint, that in the future it will only
get worse. Does/did anyone else have the same problem?? I am also
interested in the past dialogue about inserting grease nipples for future
lubrication. Is this recommended, or is there a danger of weakening the
tufnol material and possibly splitting it insitu, with the pressure of a
thread in it applying a constant pressure ( I suppose a grease nipple could
be reduxed into it removing any pressures)
In anticipation of ideas
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tufnol Blocks |
Hi, Tony --
Re the sloppy bearing, sounds like a bad part.
Europa here in the States, at least, will gladly
replace it.
I put grease fittings in the aileron torque tube
Tufnols in the cockpit module. Theory was all ya'
can otherwise do is throw oil at the rear one
(though I suppose one can cobble a long-necked
oil-squirter), and oiling the front one can
eventually mess up the upholstery goodies.
You won't split the Tufnol, but it sure doesn't
tap worth a darn. So, you're right about just
drilling a hole big enough to weakly thread a
nipple in (file tap-like cutters in the threads),
and use Redux.
BTW, I didn't do this to the rudder Tufnols,
because if you gotta go down there with a grease
gun, might as well just put a couple drops of oil
there. Also, even if you cut a channel in the
Tufnol, it still tends to lube only the area
around the nipple.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
Tony Renshaw wrote:
> My front flight control tufnol block for my flight controls, the one in the
> footwell, has an offset centreline of the hole such that about 1/3 of the
> way through it wanders.
>
> I am also
> interested in the past dialogue about inserting grease nipples for future
> lubrication. Is this recommended, or is there a danger of weakening the
> tufnol material and possibly splitting it insitu, with the pressure of a
> thread in it applying a constant pressure (I suppose a grease nipple could
> be reduxed into it removing any pressures)
> In anticipation of ideas
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel Parts Treatment |
Hi, Tony --
Auto body shop supply stores here sell products
under names like Metal Prep, which is an acid
cleaner. It's probably better than just sanding
and virgin solvent, as I figure body shops
wouldn't spend the $ if they didn't have to.
You may not see Mach .78 with that Boeing product
, but I hope it's for steel and not a
water-borne item. I've read complaints about rust
using water-based "zinc chromate." Important
thing is to coat immediately after cleaning.
Tony Renshaw wrote:
>
> Gidday all,
>
> I want to find out how to prep my steel parts of my flight control system
> prior to painting? I have a Boeing spec Green paint that I will use over
> the top, but was wondering what I should clean the surface with first? I am
> happy with the alodine/anzapon system for aluminium, but now I am
> interested in the steel stuff.
> Standing by for tips/advice, please?
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Steel Parts Treatment |
Did your alodine kit come with a product called "metalprep" to clean the
parts prior to alodining. I think its a mixture of detergent and acid.
Anyway, its just as good on steel as it is on aluminum - instructions say it
works on most metals.
Jenolite is also good but a bit messy - is designed for cars and available
from auto stores.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Steel Parts Treatment
> Gidday all,
>
> I want to find out how to prep my steel parts of my flight control system
> prior to painting? I have a Boeing spec Green paint that I will use over
> the top, but was wondering what I should clean the surface with first? I
am
> happy with the alodine/anzapon system for aluminium, but now I am
> interested in the steel stuff.
> Standing by for tips/advice, please?
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Builder No.236
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Tufnol Blocks |
Inserting grease nipples into the tufnol blocks is quite a common practice
(I have done it myself) but we found that grease is not really the best
lubricant as it seems to add friction. We have now removed the grease
nipples and flushed out the grease. We are using synthetic engine oil
instead and have a much freer system.
If you opt for this idea you can get away with a fairly small hole. We used
a syringe (tapered end) to force oil into the bearing - works very well.
The only downside is that you need to lubricate more frequently and you
probably need a means of preventing the drips from getting into the carpets.
Carl Pattinson
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Tufnol Blocks
> Gidday again,
> My front flight control tufnol block for my flight controls, the one in
the
> footwell, has an offset centreline of the hole such that about 1/3 of the
> way through it wanders. The result is that the metal component slides home
> and has a rattling loose fit with about .3-.5mm gap between it and the
> tufnol, and that it is obviously not correctly bearing throughout the
depth
> of the bearing. I worry this tufnol may wear, albeit slowly, such that
even
> if I take up some of the slack with paint, that in the future it will only
> get worse. Does/did anyone else have the same problem?? I am also
> interested in the past dialogue about inserting grease nipples for future
> lubrication. Is this recommended, or is there a danger of weakening the
> tufnol material and possibly splitting it insitu, with the pressure of a
> thread in it applying a constant pressure ( I suppose a grease nipple
could
> be reduxed into it removing any pressures)
> In anticipation of ideas
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Builder No.236
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | carl(at)photos.prestel.co.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Tufnol Blocks |
Forgot to mention in my last message - if you do fit grease nipples you dont
need to tap the holes. If you drill them the right size the nipples will tap
themselves in. Once they are in remove and reinsert with some rapid set
epoxy.
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Tufnol Blocks
> Hi, Tony --
>
> Re the sloppy bearing, sounds like a bad part.
> Europa here in the States, at least, will gladly
> replace it.
>
> I put grease fittings in the aileron torque tube
> Tufnols in the cockpit module. Theory was all ya'
> can otherwise do is throw oil at the rear one
> (though I suppose one can cobble a long-necked
> oil-squirter), and oiling the front one can
> eventually mess up the upholstery goodies.
>
> You won't split the Tufnol, but it sure doesn't
> tap worth a darn. So, you're right about just
> drilling a hole big enough to weakly thread a
> nipple in (file tap-like cutters in the threads),
> and use Redux.
>
> BTW, I didn't do this to the rudder Tufnols,
> because if you gotta go down there with a grease
> gun, might as well just put a couple drops of oil
> there. Also, even if you cut a channel in the
> Tufnol, it still tends to lube only the area
> around the nipple.
>
> Regards,
> Fred Fillinger, A063
>
> Tony Renshaw wrote:
>
> > My front flight control tufnol block for my flight controls, the one in
the
> > footwell, has an offset centreline of the hole such that about 1/3 of
the
> > way through it wanders.
> >
> > I am also
> > interested in the past dialogue about inserting grease nipples for
future
> > lubrication. Is this recommended, or is there a danger of weakening the
> > tufnol material and possibly splitting it insitu, with the pressure of a
> > thread in it applying a constant pressure (I suppose a grease nipple
could
> > be reduxed into it removing any pressures)
> > In anticipation of ideas
> > Reg
> > Tony Renshaw
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Tony:
All messages to you at renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au come bouncing back as
below:...............................................................
Returned mail: Service unavailable
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON(at)ozemail.com.au>
(EST)
from waterdown.bigwave.ca [205.211.138.10]
----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
tonyrenshaw(at)hotmail.com
(expanded from: )
.........................................................................
I used your address to return the first message, and it came back the
same way, so addres must be authentic, but is being bounced at
OZEMAIL.COM.AU..............
Good luck
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk |
Hi! Tony and all.
On the rear tufnol bearings I put a tiny hole through (tufnol only!) and
glassed up an aerosol can injection pipe so a can can be inserted on to it
for future blasts of suitable lube. I also drilled the front ones to take
such a tube directly from the can. On the tail plane torque tube fitted
very small grease nipples with tube extensions through the final
alpplication of redux. You need to be very exact though otherwise you will
have the drive plates collide with the nipple.
All I.M.H.O
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Sent: 09 July 2000 14:24
Subject: Tufnol Blocks
Gidday again,
My front flight control tufnol block for my flight controls, the one in the
footwell, has an offset centreline of the hole such that about 1/3 of the
way through it wanders. The result is that the metal component slides home
and has a rattling loose fit with about .3-.5mm gap between it and the
tufnol, and that it is obviously not correctly bearing throughout the depth
of the bearing. I worry this tufnol may wear, albeit slowly, such that even
if I take up some of the slack with paint, that in the future it will only
get worse. Does/did anyone else have the same problem?? I am also
interested in the past dialogue about inserting grease nipples for future
lubrication. Is this recommended, or is there a danger of weakening the
tufnol material and possibly splitting it insitu, with the pressure of a
thread in it applying a constant pressure ( I suppose a grease nipple could
be reduxed into it removing any pressures)
In anticipation of ideas
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | able Transformers (Variacs) and Shop Safety |
>I am moving into that portion of Cozy building which requires the hotwire
>cutting of foam. It's been 20+ years since I've had to worry about a
>suitable power supply for a hotwire saw (note: remember to whom you loan
>tools to). The great extent of my knowledge in regards to such a power
>supply is that, Amps kill and Volts heat:)
>
>So not wanting to hook a light dimmer switch up to the house power supply, I
>decided to start looking for a Variable Transformer(Variac), I have located
>a company (All Electronics Corp) that is selling 2-types of these Variable
>Transformers, URL
>(http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/c
>-Variacs.html?L+scstore+jdcw2965fff8d9f8+963471892). Would you take a look
>at the 2-Variacs listed, and tell me if these are suitable of producing in
>Safety the heat needed for hotwire cutting the Cozy wing and canard parts.
>The Variac that interests me the most is their 5 Amp Variable (Input: 110
>Vac. Output: 0 - 130 Vac) Transformer (#SC-5M). I am also open to
>suggestions and other possibilities, but with my children assisting me in
>plane building I am not comfortable with the practice of plugging an
>non-insulated dimmer switch into an outlet and the other end attached to a
>hot wire.
>
>Could someone please shad some light on this problem:
Variacs (an acronym trade name derived from "VARIable AC") are very
handy devices for generating a source of adjustable AC voltage in
the shop. They can adjust the speed of motor driven power tools,
vary the output from small heaters, -AND- many builders have reported
success with using VARIACs to control the power to a hot-wire foam
cutter.
By-in-large, used with understanding and some caution, these critters
can be most useful. However, be aware that these are not isolation
transformers . . . they have but one winding and operate as sort of
an AC potentiometer. Just because the "OUTPUT" is a few, seemingly
non-hazardous volts, there are ways they can be mis-wired such that
terminal output voltages with respect to earth ground is equal to
your 115 vac line voltage. Take a peek at a wiring diagrams I've
just uploaded to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/variac.pdf
Most VARIACs come already enclosed and internally wired
at the factory. However, there are lots of surplus components for
sale out there that require the user to mount them in an enclosure
and/or wire them up . . . It's not difficult to wire these guys
up so that they do not present a hazard for driving your hot-wire
cutters or other exposed conductor applications. Further, its
always a good idea to operate your shop's wall outlets from a
ground fault interrupter . . . they are really inexpensive. One
GFI can be wired to supply all of the miscelaneous outlets in your
shop.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robw(at)iprolink.co.nz |
| Subject: | Re: RENSHAW, what's up? |
I've mentioned this to Tony. He does get the messages, but somehow his second
address at hotmail is linked in and the system doesn't seem to like it. I think
that he's away on a trip at the moment.
Rob
>Tony:
> All messages to you at renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au come bouncing back as
>below:...............................................................
>
>Returned mail: Service unavailable
> From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON(at)ozemail.com.au>
>
>
>(EST)
>from waterdown.bigwave.ca [205.211.138.10]
>
> ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
>tonyrenshaw(at)hotmail.com
> (expanded from: )
>..........................................................................
>I used your address to return the first message, and it came back the
>same way, so addres must be authentic, but is being bounced at
>OZEMAIL.COM.AU..............
>
>Good luck
>Ferg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Thanks to all those who gave me updates for the fleet hours posting I
made a while back. Here is the latest version, including info
received during the PFA Rally.
This time I have sorted it by registraton mark, to make it easier to
find your aircraft. The earlier list was sorted by hours flown, and
while that was great as a "league table" I have now (rather
belatedly) realised it was otherwise not very useful!
Owner/pilot Kit Mark First flight Hours
Richard H Lamprey 168 5Y-LRY 24-6-1999 90
Ken Whittington 095 C-GMKW 66
Barry J D Tennant 193 D-EHBT 4-9-1997 160
Jens Gralfs 131 D-EJJG 20-12-1996 300
Jean Vidal 297 F-PKUJ 17-2-1998 200
Jean Philippe Neel 273 F-PSLH 21-11-1998 112
Jean Martin 098 F-PSLN 26-9-1998 47
Alain Chabert 275 F-PSLY 4-3-1999 150
Pete G Jeffers 052 G-BVIZ 26-9-1996 380
Norman Adam 066 G-BVJN 16-12-1995 300
Tom Sinclair 050 G-BVKF 2-3-1996 135
Jim T Naylor 039 G-BVLV 2-4-1996 400
D Alan Young 003 G-BVOS 3-10-1998 30
Mike W Cater 084 G-BVOW 7-10-1996 249
Roger J Mills 141 G-BVUV 8-5-1999 85
Gary McKirdy 041 G-BWCV 22-3-1997 50
Harald Linke 062 G-BWDP 16-11-1995 250
John Brian Crane 056 G-BWDX 27-4-1997 180
Brian Selmes 053 G-BWEG 29-3-1997 87
Alan D Stewart 038 G-BWFX 31-8-1996 305
Miles Heathman 045 G-BWGH 26-2-1998 35
Tim G Ledbury 210 G-BWIV 20-8-1996 187
David P Cripps 007 G-BWJH 22-3-1997 63
Harry Smith 068 G-BWNL 10-9-1997 10
George T Birks 112 G-BWON 22-7-1997 18
James McDiarmid 196 G-BWRO 22-9-1997 298
David R Bishop 085 G-BWVS 6-3-1999 61
Mike G Dolphin 080 G-BWWB 25-1-1997 240
Mike C Costin 063 G-BWZA 7-7-1997 202
Anthony M Smyth 115 G-BWZT 10-8-1997 445
David Watts 229 G-BXDY 31-10-1997 500
Adam Rawicz-Szczerbo 018 G-BXFG 10-11-1999 10
Ben W Faulkner 178 G-BXGG 30-9-1998 60
Alan Thorne 022 G-BXHY 9-3-1998 175
David G Bligh 076 G-BXIJ 21-12-1997 200
R G (Bob) Fairall 071 G-BXLK 31-5-1998 192
P Roger Anderson 155 G-BXTD 23-1-2000 20
David Bosomworth 067 G-BXUM 19-4-1999 92
Adam Kingdon XXZ G-BYJI 4-6-1996 475
Mark P Chetwynd-Talbot 376 G-CHET 17-1-2000 12
Alfred T Croy 101 G-CROY 27-3-1998 80
Michael J Ashby-Arnold 105 G-DAMY 25-9-1996 30
David Bowie 177 G-DAYS 28-6-1997 410
David J Lockett 046 G-DLCB 23-4-1996 300
Darius Sagar 033 G-DURO 9-1-1999 100
Chas B Stirling 025 G-EESA 20-11-1996 146
Jonathan D Milbank 054 G-EIKY 20-7-1997 175
Dr Graham M Clarke 083 G-EMIN 26-5-1997 150
Geoffrey T Leedham 296 G-EOFS 31-7-1999 19
Ken F Richardson 057 G-FLYT 7-8-1996 15
Europa Factory G-GBXS 1-5-1998 200
William R Mills 119 G-HOFC 21-5-1996 50
R H (Bob) Gibbs 118 G-IBBS 6-3-1997 100
Hal E Perkins 468 G-KITS 19-7-1995 300
Dave Elliot 027 G-KWIP 9-1-1996 250
Michael F Howe 202 G-MFHI 28-7-1998 28
Simon Longstaff 044 G-NDOL 18-11-1995 173
Mark Burton 065 G-NEAT 11-10-1996 166
Tony Wakefield 042 G-OEZY 13-6-1996 165
John H Lace 311 G-OJHL 19-8-1999 40
Kevin R Pilcher 328 G-OKEV 15-7-1998 110
Peter J Kember 017 G-OPJK 14-10-1995 450
David Pitt 016 G-OURO 21-6-1996 140
Jon Tye 001 G-PTYE 29-2-1996 205
William Goldsmith 037 G-RATZ 8-4-1997 150
Trevor J Hartwell 073 G-RBBB 10-3-1997 60
Colin M Noakes 043 G-RONA 8-3-1997 120
David K Richardson 354 G-ROOV 12-12-1999 16
Geza Szurovy 082 G-SSGS 1-7-1997 100
Greger Lundesj 106 G-TERN 31-8-1998 40
Tony M Kay 179 G-TKAY 25-7-1999 65
Bill Wynne 040 G-WWWG 31-7-1996 120
Kim A Prout 111 N111EU 27-7-1996 500
Marvin Alvarez A054 N139AB 20-3-1999 60
Martin J K Tuck 152 N152MT 9-9-1999 48.7
John S W Bampfylde 130 N1960J 1-4-2000 9.45
Daniel Boyd A045 N216JE 23-8-1998 100
Jim Brown A094 N398JB 2-4-2000 16
Garry V Stout A060 N4220S 3-4-1999 70
Ivan Shaw N512SA 19-1-1995 600
Don Huot A024 N63EU 18-7-1996 86
William S Stewart A098 N6LB 29-3-2000 55
Thomas Scherer 081 N81EU 8-8-1998 130
Lynn Elsner A030 N841E 30-5-1997 400
Earl G "Skip" Pate III A009 N96EG 2-9-1997 40
Andreas Doblhoff-Dier 133 OE-ADD 29-5-1997 170
Klaus Dietrich 132 OE-CKD 29-5-1997 300
Tom Justic 370 OK-EUR 3-4-1999 110
Gert Dalgaard Sorensen 151 OY-GDS 4-9-1999 25
Bart G Veldhuizen 264 PH-BGV 16-9-1999 25
G Jaime Orozco A005 UL-2057 17-6-1999 37
John & Dino Baker 181 VH-BKR 1-8-1998 145
Aero Trading (Auckland) 144 ZK-UBD 1-8-1997 79
Kowie Lombard 086 ZU-AUU 13-3-1996 250
Ron S Van Lear 089 ZU-BFI 30-11-1998 14
Total fleet hours 14614.15
Any further input is always welcome.
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
Tha Arlington EAA fly-in just wrapped up & I thought a short report would be
in order.
We had a total of 5 Europa's in attendance. Two flown all the way (3,000
miles!!!) from Florida. The factory demo flown by Jim Thursby and Jim &
Augustene Browns beautiful new plane that was first flown in March. That
folks, is a long way to fly and remember thats only one way.
Next was Dennis Vories plane in from California. His beautiful full leather
interior Europa is a credit to all of us. It was announced that he took
second place in the grand champion category - that folks is a real
acheivement!!! You are sure to see some pictures of this beautiful plane in
some magazines soon. He has over 200 hours of flying time already most of
it at 17,500' his favorite crusing altitude. I think the electric air
operated seats were a nice touch!!!
Down from Canada came the Whittington's from Alberta. This beautiful
Tri-Gear was flown just before Arlington last year but they didn't have the
test time off to fly it down. Well this year they did and it is a beautiful
example. Nice touches include cabin heat and dual throttles so can fly left
seat with your right hand.
I of course taxied over from my hanger covering a total distance of about a
mile but boy was it fun. We had a great Europa Barbecue Friday night and
had many other builders attend, about 25 total. Great hanger flying by
all!!!
Bob (helicopters don't fly they are just so ugly the Earth repels them)
Jacobsen
A131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: A few words from Europa |
Peter Zutrauen wrote:
> Thanks for the great info John,
>
> Hmmmm.. This has me worried.
>
> If Europa is only planning on producing the Europa till the 1000-mark, How
> close are they to that now, and how long will that take?
>
> I hope that they will continue to produce the monowheel variant for the
> North American market, regardless of the European regulations...
There are no European regulations involved: what is clear is a need for
a
taildragger conversion, and my guess is that within a year it will be
offered
both as a build option and as a retrofit - certainly the FLYER
taildragger
conversion will be offered as a retrofit, but whether it's a "private"
mod or a
factory one remains to be seen.
We are in the final hours of stressing the attach structure (using
tri-gear
maingear legs) - and it's looking very good. the structure is far
lighter than
the trigear attachment - basically using fibrelam bulkheads with flanges
stiffened by carbon - and we have been able to reduce both the number
and height
of the bulkheads. Once some test samples of the old/new interface
(critical
sections of flanges) have been proof-loaded to destruction, and the
numbers
correlated to the software predictions, we will be able to cross the T's
and dot
the i's on the design: that should be in the next month.
Anyone wishing to have a PDF of the most up to date concept drawing
please email
me (privately) under the heading of "taildragger drawing" and I will
send it
when I get back from holiday in a week's time or so.
all the best,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: A few words from Europa |
> Thanks for the great info John,
>
> Hmmmm.. This has me worried.
>
> If Europa is only planning on producing the Europa till the 1000-mark, How
> close are they to that now, and how long will that take?
I tried not to say 'only until the 1000 mark', nor did Keith imply anything like
'when we get to 1000 we will stop'. Personally, I see it as a reasonable medium
term target for the business and where it goes after that depends on how well
the business is doing.
> I hope that they will continue to produce the monowheel variant for the
> North American market, regardless of the European regulations...
As Graham says, I am sure they will continue to make what people continue to
buy, they would be mad to do otherwise.
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <PRAnderson(at)dcanderson.freeserve.co.uk> |
The Rotax service manual calls for both magnetic plugs to be inspected
during an oil change, but apparently later engines only have one plug. I
mistakenly removed the plug on the bottom of the sump in line with the
bango bolt only to find that it was not magnetic, and has to be replaced
using locktite, which entails a thorough cleaning of mating surfaces -
not easy in situ.
I failed in my attempt to remove the real plug, which is located towards
the bottom port side of the gearbox and is apparently taper plug, and
so at the suggestion of Graham Singleton I have put a small magnet in
the oil reservoir. The magnet came from a magnetic catch, and it
conveniently had a hole which made it simple to bolt to the bottom plate
which holds the gauze filter in the reservoir. Removing the bottom plate
when doing an oil change is no bad thing as all the sludge tends to
collect under this plate. While doing this I decided to drill the bolt
which secures the clamp holding the top of the reservoir, in order to be
able to wire lock it, as I was not impressed by the security of this
bolt.
I hope these comments may be of interest to anyone like me doing their
first twenty five hour check.
Roger Anderson. G-BXTD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | er glitch - lost orders |
We're finding that some orders placed with us approx 7-10 days
ago slid off the edge of the world. With few exceptions, every
order in hand has been shipped and acknowledged by e-mail.
If anyone has an order pending with us for which you HAVE NOT
received an acknowledgment showing a ship date, please drop
us a note.
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Simpson" <Dave_Simpson(at)londonweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steel Parts Treatment |
I used red lead primer (but I'm not a paint expert)
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au>
Date: 09 July 2000 00:21
Subject: Steel Parts Treatment
>Gidday all,
>
>I want to find out how to prep my steel parts of my flight control system
>prior to painting? I have a Boeing spec Green paint that I will use over
>the top, but was wondering what I should clean the surface with first? I am
>happy with the alodine/anzapon system for aluminium, but now I am
>interested in the steel stuff.
>Standing by for tips/advice, please?
>Reg
>Tony Renshaw
>
>Reg
>Tony Renshaw
>Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Simpson" <Dave_Simpson(at)londonweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Composite props in the rain |
Composite prop splits are probably down to the method of manufacture.
Arplast props are made by resin transfer moulding where the glass or carbon
reinforcement is continuous around the corner (it's a braid). This produces
a much stronger link between front and rear surface than other methods.
Dave Simpson
-----Original Message-----
From: David Cripps <david.cripps(at)spsystems.com>
Date: 07 July 2000 09:29
Subject: Composite props in the rain
>I have been advised that composite props, like wooden ones, if not
protected
>with a metal leading edge, can suffer pitting damage if flown in rain. VP
>Props such as the Arplast PV50 seem to be very popular and successful
within
>the Europa community, yet do not have a metal leading edge. What are
>people's experiences with props like these in the rain? How can any damage
>be avoided? Does self-adhesive prop tape (such as I saw on one Europa's
PV50
>at Cranfield) solve the problem or does it just create aerodynamic ones
>instead?
>
>Any thoughts gratefully received.
>
>David Cripps
>(GBWJH)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | R.H.Mole(at)open.ac.uk |
Is there anyone out there in UK or France with a spare (!) Europa canopy?
If so please email me direct at R.H.Mole(at)open.ac.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Tallent" <ktallent(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Being a slow builder, and watching the expire date fast approaching on my
untouched (expensive) cans of Redux, I was wondering if there was an
opportunity here for a bit of builder swapping.
A fast builder might have Redux with a much longer shelf life and be willing
to exchange with a slower builder who otherwise might have to face up to the
fact that they may have to throw away what is currently perfectly usable
product.
It's just an idea - unless this sort of thing is already available through
Europa or the Europa Club.
Just an idea !
PS - there is no rush in my case, my cans have another year to run but
someone out there might be facing the same dilemma.
Keith Tallent
Builder No: 221
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Instrument bashing! |
>If your alternator goes out, your battery dies or your buss fries, a
>few suck type instruments would look mighty good up there in a murky sky.
The 'dark panel' syndrome has been topic of many a hair-raising,
wing-and-a-prayer hangar tale for decades. Virtually all of these
experiences happend in a government approved, certified aircraft
where the technology and design philosophy are carved into
1960's era regulatory stone.
>With all electric, you could lose all instrments at once unless you have a
>lot of back up electrical systems in place.
There is no reason for a modern aircraft to suffer an electrical
emergency of any kind. Wires are no longer cotton-covered-rubber
or nylon-over-PVC insulation. Reasonably maintained batteries are
dependable sources of power when and if the alternator craps. A second
alternator capable of extended endurance engine powered flight
costs less than a vacuum system and weighs 1/2 to 1/3 the pounds.
Certified alternators repeately demonstrate 50-200 hrs limits before
something breaks . . . modern alternators that ran the lifetime of
the automobile they came out of are ready to go another thousand
hours or so in your airplane. Simple departures from system architectures
revered for decades provide operational alternatives to every
simple failure of any component.
Physics and facts don't support the rhetoric. Busses don't "fry",
any battery that enjoys a modicum of preventative maintenance doesn't
die in flight, and alternators (particulary two of them) are going
to be there in one form or another when you need them. MOST importantly,
YOUR airplane is going to be fabricated and maintined under aviation's
finest traditions of craftsmanship and attention to detail.
On an assembly line, the kid bucking rivets has been working there two
weeks. If something doesn't quite line up, he'll stick an awl
into the hole and MAKE them line up. If something gets bent or broke,
3 supervisors and 5 inspectors will stand around for an hour and
deduce the MINIMUM effort and expense that will allow the factory
to LEGALLY put the airplane out the door. Is that how your
airplane goes together?
>So you install double alternators, double batteries, seperate busses and so
>on. Also, if I am not off the bubble, electric instruments cost a lot more.
True. But you save on vacuum system weight and installation time.
The rat's nest of plumbing and hoses behind panel go away. Weight of
system goes down. In 1965 while working at Cessna single engine
engineering I was told that it was worth $100/pound to the end user
to reduce the weight of an airplane. Each pound left OUT didn't have
to be fabricated, installed, maintained nor was fuel burned carrying
that extra pound of stuff around in the sky for the lifetime of the
airplane. What is a pound of excess weight worth to you 35 years
later? What's it worth to have reliability in a single engine airplane
that rivals or exceeds that of a LearJet? What's it worth NOT to
fabricate, install and maintain several pounds of plumbing?
>Vac. pumps have been around for ever and to suddenly say they are no good
>makes little sense. With Vac. pumps as with most other things, you get what
>you pay for. Even one supposedly good for only three hundred hours would
>run most pilots three years.
It runs deeper than getting what you pay for . . . you can pay
a lot of money for trash. If you endorse the "been around forever"
philosophy then how about keeping dual VOR and an ADF in the
panel? I know some folks that would make you a really good deal
on a DME.
I work daily within the morass of regulated aviation. A substantial
portion of my time is expended trying to figure out how to fix
a problem without opening the Pandora's box of recertification.
The system works against truly effective solutions to problems.
The very reguations offered up in the quest for aviation utopia
are in fact making airplanes less friendly to the people who
own, maintain and fly them. You don't know how refreshing it is to come
home and work the folks who are building the finest airplanes to have
ever flown.
You may find comfort in a familiarity with "the devil
you know". However a little study of aviation's history
and some observation of truly modern and (more important)
UNREGULATED evolution of aviation technology proves that
"the devil you don't know" is really a pretty nice guy.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Instrument bashing! |
>Bob,
> I know a guy who was flying an Arrow from Orlando, FL, to Corpus
>Christ, TX. As he was getting into the pattern, he dropped his retractable
>gear. Suddenly he found that he had no electrical power, and the lights
>weren't going green -- he heard the thumps but no light indication. He went
>to NORDO procedures and the airport rolled out the red carpet in the way of
>emergency vehicles and foam machines. It turns out that his gear was down,
>and he made a safe landing. Later he found out that the problem was caused
>by his flying for 3.5 hours with the alternator switch off. He had been
>running on the battery the whole time and didn't even know it!
EXACTLY!!!!!!! Not one single certified light aircraft I'm
aware of ever left the factory with the most rudimentary
of electrical systems instrumentation - ACTIVE NOTIFICATION
OF ALTENRATOR FAILURE - in the form of low volts warning for
bus below 13.0 volts. . . .
Sometimes we get so enamored of all the things we CAN do in
terms of whippy avionics we forget the basics. I'm working a
problem right now on a certified aircraft that has cost about
$10,000,000 in warranty service in the field . . . the study
is zeroing in on a change in MATERIAL about 10 years ago
that cost under $1.
> So I say that there are still reasons for modern aircraft to suffer an
>electrical emergency of some kind. If you factor in pilot error, there
>could be an emergency, just like above. And I am sure that are other ways
>of having electrical emergencies. After all, they were invented and built
>by humans, so electrical systems, just like other systems, are prone to
>failure.
I disagree . . . certified aircraft are NOT modern . . . Independence
KS and company are the Jurassic Parks of aviation. Your #1 sources
for brand new 40 year old airplanes. Airplanes built in people's
basements and garages CAN be modern if the builder so chooses. The
guy's Arrow would have benefited greatly from the addition of a
simple, $50 warning light.
> To be fair, I plan on going all electric with redundancy, just like you
>say below. But I do plan on having emergency procedures in case those
>redundant systems fail.
Please do everything you can to strike the word "EMERGENCY" from
the lexicon of electrical system speech . . . it's high school
physics and application of rudimentary logic to design a system
that is failure tolerant of any single component failure. Electrical
sytem PARTS failures should not precipitate flight SYSTEM failures.
> . . . When I get to the instruments and electrical system
>on my Aerocanard, I would like to talk to you about it. I want a highly
>reliable redundant electrical system and instruments with good lighting for
>night operations. I'm sick and tired of these production aircraft that have
>poorly lit instruments that can't hardly be seen at night.
Good for you! Please reste assured that it's not difficult . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedals |
>I am installing the rudder pedals and floors. I would like to move the
>pedals as far forward as I can get away with and not impair function. I
>need the extra leg room.
I have done this on a modified Classic. I moved the pedal tufnol bearings
forward about 2 inches. The pedals lean backwards a little but that wasn't
a problem. THe engine has not been installed yet but there is no conflict
with the engine mount, which is an XS mount. I also extended the firewall
forward on both sides; there might be a bit of a problem with the oil tank
but It should be solvable.
I have to say that the comfort is now outstanding, but that's another
story. I altered the seat pans to give a more reclined position with a nice
moulded seat back. No painful bend sticking into the backbone.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
Attention all UK/Europe flyers.
Below you will find all the details for the Perth (Scotland, not Ozland)
Rally at the end of this month.
Summer has really arrived here and the east coast route is a dawdle.
Tees-side and Newcastle App. will shepherd you along the coast and then you
can cross the Firth of Forth under the watchful eye of Edinburgh Radar,
either outside controlled airspace or via the Forth Bridges exit lane with
its spectacular views. When your bookings come flooding in, I will set up
our Europa meeting room.
See you at the ceilidh !
<<
The Scottish Air Rally
. . . is rapidly establishing itself as the premier GA event in Scotland. The
Rally is organised by the Scottish Aero Club and the PFA (Strathtay Strut),
who are based at Perth airport, in association with Pooleys and Tayside
Aviation. This years rally is bigger and better than ever.
Perth Airport
. . . may well be described as GA in Scotlands best kept secret, offering:
2 tarmac runways (800m + 600m)
2 grass runways
Unrestricted airspace
Full maintenance
Hangarage
Fuel
VOR
Accommodation on airport
Friendly faces ! ! !
Local Attractions
Perth is quite literally the gateway to the beautiful Scottish Highlands,
being situated in an area of outstanding natural scenery. Even short flights
to the north or west take in spectacular hills and lochs, the grandeur of
which can really only be appreciated from the air. The City of Perth has an
excellent range of shops and there are a number of tourist attractions in the
vicinity, including the historically significant Scone Palace, to which
transport can be arranged.
Accommodation
There is a wide choice of accommodation close at hand, from budget to luxury,
all offering that special blend of hospitality for which Scotland is
renowned, whilst facilities for camping will be provided. Sky Lodge, situated
on the airport, offers single & twin rooms at 18 and 28 room only. Bed &
breakfast accommodation is available in Perth and Scone (the village adjacent
the airport). Telephone Perth tourist info on 01738 627958.
Full social programme over the entire weekend, with the highlight being
a dinner and a ceilidh (a Scottish barn dance!).
Programme laid on for partners, with visits to Perth city (excellent range of
shops selling Scottish woollens and crafts), also Scone Palace & gardens.
Flying/aerobatic display on Saturday afternoon featuring several aircraft.
Microlighting/hang-gliding well represented.
(note: non-radio aircraft by prior arrangement)
Usual competitions, including club trophy, furthest travelled, concours, etc
Interesting aircraft on display and display by aero-modellers
Trade stands, from a number of the well-known names
Pooleys Goody Bag for all pilots
Aviation museums will be represented :: Classic cars & bikes on display
Helicopter pleasure flights.
Cost.
Only 5.00 to include rally entrance fee, all landings and related charges
FURTHER DETAILS & BOOKING FORM FROM:
Scott Macintosh, 4 Alder Crescent, Killearn, G63 9SH.
Tel: 0141-941 1087 (day); 01360 550794 (even). Fax: 0141-951 1275.
Email: rally(at)ScottishAeroClub.org.uk
Or visit our web-site: www.ScottishAeroClub.org.uk
Perth Airport Ops Desk: 01738 553357 (for last-minute info on the day ONLY)
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax oil change |
PRAnderson(at)dcanderson.freeserve.co.uk writes:
<< I failed in my attempt to remove the real plug, which is located towards
the bottom port side of the gearbox and is apparently taper plug >>
The magnetic plug is visible just above and aft of the oil filter. (To
verify, note that a screwdriver is slightly attracted to the outside of this
plug.) The plug is drilled and needs to be safety wired, with the other end
of the wire typically looped around one of the socket bolt heads nearby.
At a recent Rotax seminar, Phil Lockwood indicated that removal of this plug
was often difficult. He suggested using less than the specified torque when
replacing it (to make future removal easier) plus care in safety wiring it.
Unfortunately, I misplaced my notes from the seminar so I don't have the
torque he recommended. Nor can I find the official recommended torque in my
Rotax manual...
John A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Davis" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
There have been several promised cheaper, lighter or smaller transponders.
The Micronair, a french one (RMS or something) and the RACAL one. Does
anybody know if any are available yet?
Jerry
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax oil change |
John,
<>
25Nm is the recommended torque
chus,
dave
kit67
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DC Powered Vacuum Pump |
>a while back somebody (I believe it was John) suggested a small electrical
>driven compressor as an alternative to a vacuum pump or venturi. He
>especially recommended the UNMP50 from KNF. Their brushless type (for
>permanent operation) costs $ 213.00. The pump will make 2.7 l per min at 4
>Hg. I'm ready to order one from KNF, but I'm somewhat reluctant. Has anybody
>tried such a pump yet?
Is this for normal operations of vacuum instruments? I used
to work for a company that sold STANDBY electrically driven
vacuum pumps . . . they take a LOT of snort . . . like
125 to 300 watts. Got that much extra available full time
from your alternator? . . .
Found this on the internet:
(3) Vacuum loads may be calculated as follows:
(a) Gyroscopic instruments require optimum value of airflow to
produce their rated rotor speed. For instance, a bank and pitch
indicator requires approximately 2.30 cubic feet per minute for its
operation
. . . 2.3 cu feet per minute is about 65 liters per minute
and a resistance or pressure drop of 4.00 inches Hg. Therefore, operating
an instrument requiring 4.00 inches Hg from oneventuri would be marginal.
Similarly, the directional gyro indicator consumes approximately 1.30 cubic
feet per minute and a pressure drop of 4.00 in Hg. . . . It should be noted
that the negative pressure air source must not only deliver the optimum value
of vacuum to the instruments, but must also have sufficient volume capacity
to accommodate the total flow requirements of the various instruments which
it serves.
. . . adding 1.3 cu-ft/min (37 more liters/min) brings the total
up to more than 3.6 cu/ft or 100 liters per minute at 4 in-hg or
better.
Looking at KNF's website, the only pumps capable of this
performance have to plug in the wall. It taks a LOT of
suck to run a vacuum instrument. This may be why those little
engine driven pumps in airplanes are so hard pressed to run
for very long. . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
| Subject: | - who's planes will be there? |
Hi folks,
I'm driving out to Oshkosh in a couple of weeks to snag a couple of Europa
Co. demo rides, and was wondering who's shiny Europa's will be gracing the
flight line?
Cheers & thanks,
Pete
"Push to test."
"Release to detonate."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | arations for *Orbit* - Europa N81EU to Oshkosh - and beyond |
It's one week before departure ("X minus 7 days"). The Europa as
well as routing are taking final shape one by one.
On July 21st, N81EU is scheduled to take off from Bonn, Germany for
the classic plain vanilla Atlantic crossing via:
~ Northern England (we'll circle the Europa Company in Kirbymoorside)
~ Iceland, Greenland and Canada.
Depending on weather and technical issues we should arrive during
the early days of Oshkosh AirVenture 2ooo. Please visit her at the
parking located north of the West Ramp and adjacent to the Discovery
Channel stage.
Technical issues that were taken care of include:
- 2 day engine check with Rotax Germany
- aerodynamic clean-up with gap sealing and Europa speed kit
- installation of aux fuel storage using two monowheel aux
tanks from Europa Aviation, 35 litres each.
and countless small items around the airframe with regards of
reliability and performance.
- complete survival equipment package as required by canadian
authorities has been secured. It includes a life raft, survival
suit, life vest, water sumbersible ELT and survival food and
lodging.
- insurance coverage for the scandinavian countries.
I am looking forward to see Iceland and Greenland and experience
the still long sunlight days. Childhood dreams are coming true !
My friend Dietmar Mondon has agreed to daily feed the website with
updates which he again will receive by HF, Internet or phone. He
can be reached at: and and
will be able to forward messages to me.
The website can be found at: http://www.thomas.scherer.com
The greatest experience during the preparatory phase of the flight
is the helping hands. Out of the many I list:
Graham Singleton - with a never-ending flow of advices, letters,
emails.
Jim Price - he came to visit Germany for one week. All he saw of
Germany though was the street to and from the airport.
As my technical councelor he went through the entire
airframe. He is lending me his portable GPS and is
arranging the logistics around the ground crew: my father,
Pop - the paintscheme designer and two more friends from
Germany who will attend Oshkosh.
Michel Gordillo - he flew his Kitfox from Madrid to Oshkosh in
1999 and is instrumental in showing me the way
through the authorities of Russia and China.
Pop - is spending every free moment up here, despite the distance
of 350 km.
Motoe - my wife who carries he complete workload of moving the family
and buying supplies for the first months in Mongolia.
and all the supportive messages from the "gang".
Sincerely,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paulliz(at)cix.co.uk (Paul & Liz Atkinson) |
| Subject: | Re: Transponders |
In article <019301bfec1d$e5d7e000$3a4ae0c3@jerry>,
lts(at)avnet.co.uk (Jerry Davis) wrote:
> There have been several promised cheaper, lighter or
smaller
> transponders.
> The Micronair, a french one (RMS or something) and
the RACAL one. Does
> anybody know if any are available yet?
>
> Jerry
>
>
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
>
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
>
>
_______________
> The Europa List is supported by Aviators Network UK -
info(at)avnet.co.uk
>
>
Jerry
The Microair one is to be announced at Oshkosh(at least
that is what they said 2 months ago). So with a bit of
luck it should be on sale soon.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Cheers:
I am in the process of filling the wings and tail and upgrading the
cockpit before installing it in the 'canoe'.
Having opted for the weight increase kit, I drilled out the 3/8in pin
holes and have successfully installed the 1/2in ferrules. I am now
cvonsidering the crossbar and accessories.
(1) Is there anything I should do (in the way of special prep) to the
cockpit now for later incorporation of the rear pin mounts?
(2) Has someone (anyone?) kept a record of the time spent on the mod? If
so, I would really appreciate an estimate of the time spent working on
the mod, rather than the elapsed time (waiting for layup curing, etc.).
It would be a great help.
If you are following me by a few weeks in the construction, I have kept
accurate log of the time spent on each stage, and can give some
intervals for planning purposes.
Happy landings,
Ferg A064 (#319)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J D Bean <JohnBean(at)compuserve.com> |
I have just purchased a vac pump kit. On fitting the pump to the engine
(mounted on a stand) the inlet and outlet pipes look quite high. Will the
pump and fittings fit under the 912S cowlings and is it permissable to
mount the pump turned by 90deg so the inlet and outlet pipes are on the
side?
Thanks John Bean (slow builder of kit 23 - top not on yet!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J van Heeswijk" <jac.vanheeswijk(at)hetnet.nl> |
| Subject: | ding the Oshkosh beehive |
Taking the risk that you are going to accuse me of being commercial I will
draw the attention of our USA Europals again for a way to avoid the stress
that comes with flying into Whitman Field during the convention week. Look
at it as a hint from a friend to a friend, it's not more than that. A
repetition of a message that I posted earlier to the forum. Jack.
Maybe this is a good idea for all the Europals in the US that want to travel
by plane to Oskosh in July but don't like the hectic beehive called Whitman
Field during the convention days.
In Neenah, at 10 nm north of Oshkosh is a small field called Brennand
Airport.Quiet and with very friendly folks. Tiedowns are a trifle ($5.00),
there's place to put up your tent and you can use the hanger's restroom and
pilot's lounge. It's a bit primitive but I think it will appeal to many of
us. On request the bus from Appleton comes every hour to pick you up for
Oshkosh and I am driving myself by car every morning and down in the
afternoon, so there's a good chance that I can pick you up.
The official name of the field is Brennand Airport (79C) and it is on 10 nm
at the 357 radial from Osh VOR.
Surprised that a message like this comes to the forum from the Netherlands?
Yes, I arrived there several years ago by coincidence and stayed coming
back every year since. The owner, Ted Vanderwielen, is a cordial guy and we
are friends from that very first day. Interested? Want to know more? Call
him at 920.836.3081.
Or look at www.airnav.com/airport/79c
Hope to meet you there this summer!
Jack van Heeswijk, nr. 394.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | tern CA Seminar 2000 date set |
We have enough interest in a northern California to set a date
for a weekend seminar. The weekend of September 30/October 1 has
been selected. The site will be in Santa Rosa, California. Builders
and aircraft owners are invited to check over the course description
found at http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Reservations for this presentation may be entered on the same page.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
I recently tried to establish the CG position for my Europa Classic and have
found the process a bit puzzling.
Per Section 6 of the Nov 1995 Owner's Manual, the reference point is the
front of the cowl. With the aircraft level in both directions, using a plumb
bob from the front of the cowl, the floor was marked and the positions of the
main and tail wheel were also marked as was the position of the aft cowl
joggle.
Newsletter 21 page 17 gives an updated method for locating the Europa's CG in
which the cowl joggle is assigned as F.S. 29.25 and the measurements are all
relative to this. The method given in this newsletter is independent of cowl
length which I took to mean that it should work for both the Classic and the
XS configurations.
My expectation was that my older model would show the cowl joggle at 29.25,
consistent with the new technique. However, with the aircraft leveled using
the door rebate as a reference, the cowl joggle is not vertical as
anticipated. Using the horizontal split line of the cowl as the reference,
the vertical line of the cowl is clearly canted such that the bottom is
further forward than the top. Measuring from points established by the plumb
bob from the intersection of the cowl joggle and the horizontal split of the
cowl, the cowling measures 29 7/8 from front to back while dropping a line
from the joggle at the bottom center of the cowl shows 29 3/4 from the front
of the cowl.
Thus, the two methods (front of cowl vs rear) of establishing the CG differ
by 3/8 to 1/2 inch. While this is not a huge difference, it doesn't seem
trivial either. That is, if the CG moves forward by 2 inches from the
nominal position of 60 it is at the limit, and the difference due to
measurement technique is near 1/4 of this range. So, which method of
measurement is the one to trust? Is there a better way?
My understanding of aeronautical design is limited, but for what it is worth,
I thought that the underlying idea was that the CG must be in a range forward
of the wing's center of lift by some amount to ensure pitch stability. Since
the goal is to establish the CG position vs the wing, it would seem to this
uninformed builder that the position of the wing's leading edge would be a
better reference point (more directly related to the desired result) than the
aft edge of the cowl.
The point of the above is that a further difference between the wing's center
of lift and either cowl reference point is possible due to a difference in
the way the seat module is bonded into the fuselage, especially the exact
angle of the seat back as well as the amount the bushings protrude toward the
wing spar, etc. The sum of these little differences could add to the cowl
length imponderables noted above. I suspect the effect of all of these
little random variables would be eliminated if the position of the wing LE
rather than the cowl were given as a specific FS.
In support of the random variation of measured points on the fuselage,
consider the following measurements:
Main Tail
Nov 95 manual 47.3 175.1
Revision 45.2 175.5
A044 44.68 175.75
Range 2.6 .65
It is interesting to note that the nose to tail range is fairly small while
the location of the main wheel varies considerably. Doesn't this mean that
the location of the CG vs the main wheel varies by 2.6 inches between
aircraft? Wouldn't this affect ground handling?
Lots of questions from what seemed a straightforward task...
John A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: [c-a] Re: Transponders |
I felt that the following was worth adding to our list. It explains quite a
lot that was puzzling me.
Graham
>[The Canard Aviators's Mailing list]
>Dan (and the rest of the group),
>
>A little more here on how transponders are built and tuned....
>
>I used to be the business manager for BendixKing's transponders, so perhaps I
>can provide us all with some more insight.
>
>You commented on the transponder being "out of tune" from the factory. A
>transponder should receive interrogations from ground-based radars and
>airborne TCAS systems on 1030 MHz, then send out a reply at 1090 MHz. Because
>things such as coax length, bends, ground plane anomalies, and antenna
>capabilities, the frequency put out by the transponder tends to get "pulled"
>down.This is the same regardless of whether the plane is a homebuilt
>composite or factory Spam can.
>
>Because of this frequency pull, the transponders leaving the factory are
>actually tuned to put out a signal approximately 1 MHz above the desired
>optimal; ~1091 MHz. In most installations, this results in the installed unit
>transmitting at the right point. Because of variations in installations,
>however, many will require newly-installed transponders to be modified.
>
>And additional source of variation is that the lower-priced transponders
>utilize a cavity which helps control the frequency of the signal output.
>These cavities offer the advantage of being low-cost (relative to all-digital
>technology), but they also have drawbacks, such as having their frequency
>drift with time (even if not used), they may be sensitive to temperature
>fluctuations, and they are sensitive to shock.
>
>There now are digital transponders on the market (BendixKing offers a
>high-end version, while Garmin offers a low-end version). Beware that the
>digital transponders, especially the low-end ones, have their share of
>problems and are still susceptible to installation-specific problems.
>
>The Terra (later Trimble) transponders are in a class all of their own (it
>ought to be one in reform school)....As many of you may unfortunately
>remember, their transponders required expensive upgrades, and many others
>have had numerous maintenance problems. When we bench tested them in our lab,
>we found that even the best of them did not meet the minimum expected
>performance specs.
>
>Failing to meet these specs can be more than annoying: it could cost you your
>life. TCAS, the airborne collision avoidance system on most jets and
>turboprops, requires you to have a fully functioning transponder in order to
>be "seen". Having a transponder that doesn't work properly might lead the
>crew of one of these fast-moving planes to assume that there are no planes
>(i.e. you) in front of them. It was this type of assumption a few weeks ago
>that caused the Lear in Florida to collide with the Extra 300. I don't know
>if the Lear was TCAS-equipped, but the ground-based radar system wasn't able
>to keep the two planes separated.
>
>One last note: although some out there may think I am biased because of my
>employer, please realize that I try to leave my job at the office. I just
>want to enhance everyone's flying safety.
>
>Tom Staggs
>Long-EZ N13YV
>
> \
>->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>-|-
> /
>-For details on sponsors of this list, copyrights, and how to remove
>-yourself from this list, please visit:
>
> http://www.canard.com/canard-aviator-sponsors.html
>
> (c) 1997,1998, 1999, 2000 Canard Aviators. support(at)canard.com
> /
> -|-<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
> \
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Cripps" <david.cripps(at)spsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Drive blades wanted |
Does anyone out there have any Warp Drive blades for the standard Rotax 912,
that they'd like to get rid of, perhaps having upgraded to a VP prop?
Any offers or suggestion of best sources would be most welcome.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | sic LEs Complete!!! |
Gidday,
Well if you thought the day would never arrive, it did.
The Aussie Connection finally pulled his finger out enough to finally have
something big enough in the workshop, even to my wife, that vaguely
resembles parts of an a/c . The flox was placed "wet" into the rib
receptacles, as per the instructions, which sounds like "something I should
consider more often". All went really well, and the advice received prior
to this momentus step was really appreciated. There is a lot of really good
advice out there at the moment, better than ever before I feel.
Trailing edges as soon as a good cure will allow me to spin them over.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Davis" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Is their a bevy of aircraft going to Epinal this year?
I am thinking of going early Saturday returning Sunday.
Plans could change to include either Friday or Monday.
Interested to hear from any others going down there.
Jerry
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: [c-a] Re: Transponders |
Thanx for posting that info, Graham. Overall
informative, but the guy worked for Bendix-King.
Can anybody comment on the quality of the newer
solid state (competitor's) transponders he's not
fond of?
> >Having a transponder that doesn't work properly might lead the
> >crew of one of these fast-moving planes to assume that there are no planes
> >(i.e. you) in front of them. It was this type of assumption a few weeks ago
> >that caused the Lear in Florida to collide with the Extra 300. I don't know
> >if the Lear was TCAS-equipped, but the ground-based radar system wasn't able
> >to keep the two planes separated.
I don't understand his comment about the mid-air
at Boca Raton, Florida
(www.ntsb.gov/aviation/MIA/00A190A.htm). It was a
clear failure of "see and avoid" on a sunny VFR
day. He's literally suggesting that transponders
can be good enough so that a Learjet crew with
TCAS needn't look out the window on climbout in
busy Miami airspace. And the Extra 300 pilot
flying 2.5 mi. west of Boca Raton airport (over
100,000 ops annually) at 2,300 AGL wasn't a good
idea.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | ry exuding during layup |
Gidday again,
Whilst doing the leading edges I had one problem that eventuated. The
slurry on one core, luckily the underside, exuded the slurry out of the
pores when the resin was painted on prior to skin application. The long and
the short of it was that it created a longish, lumpy lateral drip that has
remained. The logic at the time it was noticed was to hurry and get the
skin on in the hope that the weight might force it back into the foam. I am
only talking a length of about 8" and a width of maybe an 1" or so, but it
distorts the fibres over the top, albeit not bad enough to require a
repair, only unsightly, and will require extra filling. So, the question
is, "why did this happen?" I can only think of one thing I did different
over this part of the wing. I used a Thalco squeegee (excellent they are)
but I used it over the effected area rather firmly and was surprised how
much microslurry I was able to pull out. It was deemed inappropriate to do
the entire wing, which may well have been to my advantage now that it
appears this squeegeeing was the culprit. I can only think that by being a
little firm I was actually chopping, or dragging the tops off the foam
ridges and effectively lowering the surface nominally, whilst at the same
time making each individual hemisphere of foam void more like a crescent
shape, and less likely to retain contents when in the vertical plane.
Simply put, I figure I allowed gravity to have a greater effect by changing
the retainment quality of the foam in the vertical. Does this sound
logical, or is there another reason that I haven't thought of???
Anyway, I ask simply to try and avoid a repeat of this for the trailing
edges. I am tempted to consider Miles Mc Callums? idea in Flyer of building
a jig for my leading edges that allows the job to be layed over on a 45
degree angle. I'm completely stumped trying to find which issue it was in
because there were some nice pictures too. Does anyone have any comments
about this option, or is it considered best to stay with the vertical???
Thanks in anticipation, and if you haven't already read any of my recent
messages, and you have replied to others, I couldn't be without the forum
at the moment and it is better than it ever has been!
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | lwind prop for motor gliders? |
Hi all,
I heard that during the Arlington fly-in the
factory tri-gear with a Whirlwind prop had the
engine shut down and the prop windmilled,
continuing to turn over.
I had heard that the Rotax engine would not
windmill, that the prop would stop turning as
soon as the ignition was turned off. This was
an important consideration when ordering the
glider wings. If props had the tendency to wind-
mill, we would need a prop that feathers to
motor glide. But since the Rotax 'does not'
windmill, we bought the Whirlwind prop for
our 912S.
For Kim Prout and any others with the
Whirlwind prop;
Does it windmill with the engine off ?
Does it stop at lower speeds, and what speed?
If it stops at lower speed, will it start wind-
milling again if the speed goes up again?
If it does not stop windmilling at gliding speeds,
can the Whirlwind prop be used for motor
gliding on the Europa ? !!!
With its higher compression, the 912S is
less likely to windmill than the 912, which
engine is in the factory tri gear that was
shut down at Arlington ?
Another question;
The Whirlwind goes to fine pitch
when the engine is stopped. Is this the
least likely position for windmilling,
or the most likely? (I have assumed
it is the least likely).
Terry Seaver
A135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
a couple of questions for those on the list, to further various design
projects.....
1/ how much does the XS tailwheel spring deflect unloaded---> static
@mauw
2/ what is the travel of the door shoot bolts.
cheers,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
The factory Tri-Gear Europa was damaged in a landing at Lakeland before
Arlington and did not fly out. It had nothing to do with the engine - the
nose gear had a weld fail. It does have a Whirlwind prop that was undamaged
in the incident (one advantage of 2 blade props!)and the plane will be at
Oshkosh.
The Airmaster and some of the other electric VP props do fully feather.
Currently the Whirlwind does not offer this although Bob from Europa
Lakeland said there has been some talk of it - maybe in the future? The
Rotax is easy to stop the prop turning and won't start windmilling again -
that is what saved the prop on the factory tri-gear. They were able to stop
it before landing when they knew the gear had a problem. Remember though
that even a two blade prop presents a lot of drag if it's not fully
feathered.
Bob Jacobsen
A131
From: Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com>
>
>CC: wwpc(at)whirlwindpropellers.com
>Subject: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders?
>Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 09:28:18 -0700
>
>Hi all,
>
>I heard that during the Arlington fly-in the
>factory tri-gear with a Whirlwind prop had the
>engine shut down and the prop windmilled,
>continuing to turn over.
>I had heard that the Rotax engine would not
>windmill, that the prop would stop turning as
>soon as the ignition was turned off. This was
>an important consideration when ordering the
>glider wings. If props had the tendency to wind-
>mill, we would need a prop that feathers to
>motor glide. But since the Rotax 'does not'
>windmill, we bought the Whirlwind prop for
>our 912S.
>
>For Kim Prout and any others with the
>Whirlwind prop;
>
>Does it windmill with the engine off ?
>
>Does it stop at lower speeds, and what speed?
>
>If it stops at lower speed, will it start wind-
>milling again if the speed goes up again?
>
>If it does not stop windmilling at gliding speeds,
>can the Whirlwind prop be used for motor
>gliding on the Europa ? !!!
>
>With its higher compression, the 912S is
>less likely to windmill than the 912, which
>engine is in the factory tri gear that was
>shut down at Arlington ?
>
>Another question;
>The Whirlwind goes to fine pitch
>when the engine is stopped. Is this the
>least likely position for windmilling,
>or the most likely? (I have assumed
>it is the least likely).
>
>Terry Seaver
>A135
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
Message forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message sent by
wwpc(at)whirlwindpropellers.com
***********************************
Terry;
They were able to stop the prop on the Tri-Gear Europa and stopped wind
milling. The Whirl Wind 100 Series propeller delivers excellent
performance reliability, easy installation and simplest operation. The
100 Series is the worlds lightest constant speed propeller available at
10.2 pounds.
If you have any specific questions, please call us at (619)562-3725.
Regards,
Jim Rust
General Manager
Whirl Wind Propellers Corporation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | bsite worth visiting |
Message forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message is from
"Robert C. Williams" rwilliams@pan-tex.net
********************************************
I think you'll enjoy reading the story at the website below!
<http://www.first-to-fly.com/Adventure/vinfiz.htm>
RCW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William S. Stewart" <bill(at)helixsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
According to Bruce Armstrong (one of the tri-gear pilots during the
incident) the propeller did not stop windmilling until the airplane was
deep into the landing flare. Fortunately it stopped in a horizontal
position.
Bill Stewart N6LB
----------
> From: John Cliff <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders?
> Date: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 6:48 AM
>
> Message forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message sent by
> wwpc(at)whirlwindpropellers.com
>
> ***********************************
>
> Terry;
> They were able to stop the prop on the Tri-Gear Europa and stopped wind
> milling. The Whirl Wind 100 Series propeller delivers excellent
> performance reliability, easy installation and simplest operation. The
> 100 Series is the worlds lightest constant speed propeller available at
> 10.2 pounds.
>
> If you have any specific questions, please call us at (619)562-3725.
> Regards,
> Jim Rust
> General Manager
> Whirl Wind Propellers Corporation
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
Bob Jacobsen wrote:
>The factory Tri-Gear Europa was damaged in a landing
>at Lakeland before
>Arlington and did not fly out. It had nothing to do with the
>engine - the
>nose gear had a weld fail. It does have a Whirlwind prop that
>was undamaged
>in the incident (one advantage of 2 blade props!)and the plane will
>be at
>Oshkosh.
>The Airmaster and some of the other electric VP props do fully feather.
>Currently the Whirlwind does not offer this although Bob from Europa
>Lakeland said there has been some talk of it - maybe in the future?
>The
>Rotax is easy to stop the prop turning and won't start windmilling
>again -
>that is what saved the prop on the factory tri-gear. They were
>able to stop
>it before landing when they knew the gear had a problem. Remember
>though
>that even a two blade prop presents a lot of drag if it's not fully
>feathered.
>Bob Jacobsen
>A131
><http://www.hotmail.com">
We chose the Whirlwind prop because it has
the lightest weight (and the weight is further back),
has very good performance (two blades are more
efficient than three), and is hydraulic. I had
some concern that the electric props would not keep
up with the speed changes during aerobatics
(if you can't do some occasional acro you might
as well take the bus).
The early reports from the factory say that the
difference in glide ratio between feathered to
non-feathered is estimated to be 27:1 vs 25:1.
If true, I don't consider the lack of feathering a
show stopper.
There is no doubt that the prop will stop at some
low speed, the important question is; at what speed
does it begin windmilling again ? 80 kts would be
great, that would allow you to slow down to optimum
gliding speed to stop the prop, and allow air restarts
by diving to 80+ kts. 45 kts on the other hand would
be a real problem, with the engine turning over most
of the time.
Terry Seaver
A135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | pas to Perth (Scotland) |
RE message of 12/7/00
Oops - I edited out the dates - "end of the month" means Fri 28th to Sun 30th
July.
so you have no excuses now.
Highland Aero Club at Dornoch (an hour further north) has it's fly-in as well
that weekend if you want to see the real Scottish Highlands.
Graham G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Hull <hullhous(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | ite worth visiting |
The story of Cal Rodgers and the first coast-to-coast flight has been
re-traced before by a local EAA member. In 1995-96, Henry Kisor flew
the same route, although in a more modern aircraft (if you can call a
152 modern - we europeans know better). Henry's book "Flight of the Gin
Fizz" tells the story of Cal Rodgers adventure intertwined with Henry's
own. What makes it doubly interesting is they both share a common
trait. Both pilots are/were deaf. Henry's story of how the aviation
community accepted his handicap is inspiring. So too is the story of
how Cal Rodgers overcame endless adversity in his attempt to be the
first to cross the US.
Henry is a book editor for the Chicago Sun Times, and a member of EAA
Chapter 414.
Jim Hull
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barahona Alonso, Francisco Javier" <javier.barahona(at)aeasa.com> |
| Subject: | rnator warning lamp |
Dear friends,
Months ago somebody advised me about the possibility of substituting the
alternator warning lamp (3W, 12V) for a diode plus a 480 Ohms resistor.
Making calculations I obtain that I need a resistor of 48 Ohms instead:
R = (V
2)/P = (12
2)/3 = 48
I do not know which is the resistance of the diode. Could somebody confirm
me which of both resistors, 48 or 480 Ohms should I use?
Best regards.
Javier Barahona (Classic #187)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Davis" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
For those seaking an hydaulic prop I note that MT now offer an hydraulic
prop for the Dyn Aero range of A/C. Its use prevents the use of a Vac
pump (which I don't want in any case) its a little heavy considering the
prop itself and the hydaulic governor etc.. In favour its very fast
changing pitch and has the MT quality. I am not convinced that two
blades are more efficient than three. Especially on the Rotax 912S which
has a higher reduction ratio. It may be more efficient to have two
blades at high speeds but my money is on three blades in the takeoff and
climb phase. For us in the UK that's a major consideration. I'll put my
three blades up against two any day of the week.
Jerry
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Seaver
Cc: Europa Mail List ; Whirlwind propellers
Subject: Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders?
Bob Jacobsen wrote:
The factory Tri-Gear Europa was damaged in a landing at Lakeland
before
Arlington and did not fly out. It had nothing to do with the engine
- the
nose gear had a weld fail. It does have a Whirlwind prop that was
undamaged
in the incident (one advantage of 2 blade props!)and the plane will
be at
Oshkosh.
The Airmaster and some of the other electric VP props do fully
feather.
Currently the Whirlwind does not offer this although Bob from Europa
Lakeland said there has been some talk of it - maybe in the future?
The
Rotax is easy to stop the prop turning and won't start windmilling
again -
that is what saved the prop on the factory tri-gear. They were able
to stop
it before landing when they knew the gear had a problem. Remember
though
that even a two blade prop presents a lot of drag if it's not fully
feathered.
Bob Jacobsen
A131
We chose the Whirlwind prop because it has
the lightest weight (and the weight is further back),
has very good performance (two blades are more
efficient than three), and is hydraulic. I had
some concern that the electric props would not keep
up with the speed changes during aerobatics
(if you can't do some occasional acro you might
as well take the bus).
The early reports from the factory say that the
difference in glide ratio between feathered to
non-feathered is estimated to be 27:1 vs 25:1.
If true, I don't consider the lack of feathering a
show stopper.
There is no doubt that the prop will stop at some
low speed, the important question is; at what speed
does it begin windmilling again ? 80 kts would be
great, that would allow you to slow down to optimum
gliding speed to stop the prop, and allow air restarts
by diving to 80+ kts. 45 kts on the other hand would
be a real problem, with the engine turning over most
of the time.
Terry Seaver
A135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Beck <EuropaChris(at)netscape.net> |
| Subject: | s and Fuse on the way! |
Hi everyone!
Been kinda quiet around here lately, hope it's due to building or flying!
Just dropping in to say "hi" and let you all know that all is going very well
with our construction. We aren't burning up the logbook with speed, but
making great progress. We have so many things going on around the Milwaukee
area during the summer that it's hard to be in the basement when it's so
beautiful outside.
Yesterday I placed the order for the Wings and Fuse kit w/ Michele in
Lakeland. They are bringing up several more kits via truck to Oshkosh, so I
couldn't pass up the deal on saving the crating and shipping charges.
Besides, we are just about ready for the wings, and only a 40 minute drive
from OSH, so it's only a stop on the way for them and good timing. Evidently
the wings do not take terribly long to do, so I figured we'd go the extra
stretch for the fuse kit right away. Now to figure out where to put it all
when it gets here this weekend!?! Our house has a large basement where we are
building (big enough to rig the plane fully inside, I'm pretty sure), but no
access for large items. So, the fall project is to get a contractor in to
install an external access to the basement that's big enough to get the fuse
in and out. Should be fun...
We'll be at Oshkosh on Saturday, and then plan to go back up to Appleton for a
flight in the factory plane on Sunday. Hope to meet lots of the gang up
there. As of yet, neither of us has flown in a Europa. Should be a real
treat!
OH yeah. Does anyone have an AutoCAD plan view of the monowheel? Reason I
ask is I want to take the side view of the plane and incorporate it into the
access plan for the basement. It would allow me to exactly determine whether
I'll be able to get it in and out easily. I'd hate to do a bunch of
construction and then find out it doesn't fit, causing much marital strife.
Thanks!
Chris and Sue Beck
A159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator warning lamp |
Hi, Javier --
Light-emitting diodes have a voltage drop of about
2 volts, and the typical variety wants no more
than 20 milliamps. So, 10/.02 = 500, or a 470 or
510 ohm resistor (1/4 watt OK) is what you want.
Regards
Fred Fillinger, A063
> Barahona Alonso, Francisco Javier wrote:
>
> Dear friends,
>
> Months ago somebody advised me about the
> possibility of substituting the alternator
> warning lamp (3W, 12V) for a diode plus a 480
> Ohms resistor. Making calculations I obtain
> that I need a resistor of 48 Ohms instead:
>
> R = (V
2)/P = (12
2)/3 = 48
>
> I do not know which is the resistance of the
> diode. Could somebody confirm me which of both
> resistors, 48 or 480 Ohms should I use?
>
> Best regards.
>
> Javier Barahona (Classic #187)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paulliz(at)cix.co.uk (Paul & Liz Atkinson) |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
In article <3975ED06.6AFABF1C(at)cisco.com>,
terrys(at)cisco.com (Terry Seaver) wrote:
> >The early reports from the factory say that the
> difference in glide ratio between feathered to
> non-feathered is estimated to be 27:1 vs 25:1.
> If true, I don't consider the lack of feathering
a
> show stopper.
> There is no doubt that the prop will stop at some
> low speed, the important question is; at what
speed
> does it begin windmilling again ? 80 kts would be
> great, that would allow you to slow down to
optimum
> gliding speed to stop the prop, and allow air
restarts
> by diving to 80+ kts. 45 kts on the other hand
would
> be a real problem, with the engine turning over
most
> of the time.
Terry
If I remember right; having a feathering prop not only
saves you a bit of drag, but the engine will not start
rotating again until you unfeather it, which helps when
you want to do some high speed gliding.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paulliz(at)cix.co.uk (Paul & Liz Atkinson) |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
Terry
If I remember right; having a feathering prop not only
saves you a bit of drag, but the engine will not start
rotating again until you unfeather it, which helps when
you want to do some high speed gliding.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | those Oshkosh bound.... |
If you are going to Oshkosh and want to see the Airmaster Europa CS prop
unit, they are going to be located at the North Aircraft Display #413 ~ Near
the Warbirds Parking Area. The stand you are looking for is Aero Trading
Ltd.
Baseline performance checks on ZK-UBD are now complete and an Airmaster hub
is being fitted to the aircraft as I write. Weather willing (and its not
looking good) I'll be able to get the comparative figures up to Oshkosh by
the start of the show.
One thing that has really come to the fore during the baseline testing with
the ground adjustable warp drive is how sensitive the Europa cruise speed is
to propellor pitch. Having run the aircraft from 17" through to 21" of pitch
we are amazed how much difference there was in cruise performance. At 17"
the plane flies well, at 21" it goes (to quote the test flight observer)
like a goat with its tail on fire.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Can someone please remind me how to get into the FTTP site of Avnet. Thanks
in anticipation.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
Try the following in your browser .... works for me.
ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa
Regards
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
Message forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message is from
Klaus Dietrich Klaus.Dietrich(at)oracle.com
********************************************************
The MT is a superb prop but heavy and ....expensive. I'm using the NSI
hub with the three blade Warp drive which is 10 kg including spinner and
slip ring which is just 5 kg more than the fixed pitch. The MT will be
over 15 kg and about three times the price of the NSI...
Concerning quality, we have just finished extensive testing of two NSI
props on two 912 Europas over 2 years (total 400 hours) in order to get
the austrian approvals to use this prop. There were no problems and we
are very satisfied with the prop. Materials used, craftsmanship and ease
of installation plus installation manual are all first class.
The prop shortened the "critical" phase of the ground roll and we can
now take of almost in the three point attitude; also climb and max.
cruise both improved by about 10%. Both props have been dismantled after
about 150 hours each and checked. Both were free of wear or defects.
I agree that delivery is a bit long (4 month; we ordered directly from
NSI in the US and for one prop we supplied the Warp Drive blades, which
reduced delivery time) but the result is definitely worthwhile waiting!
To have an efficient two blade prop on the Rotax you would have to
increase the diameter by about 10 cm. May be a problem for the ground
clearance at least for the Mk1 Monowheel. We compared "life" our
performance with two other Europas with two-blade VP props (homebuilt)
which only confirmed that the Warp Drive three blade prop is an
excellent choice for the Europa.
Klaus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
Test message, please ignore
John Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: For those Oshkosh bound.... |
> So, exactly how fast does a goat with its tail on fire go?
(around here, it's usually cats)
M
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip.lincoln(at)essnet.se |
The past couple of weeks here (Stockholm) have been kind of rainy with "coolish
but warm" temps (17 - 20C) which has meant that the relative humidity in my (basement)
workshop has been continuously up between 80 to 90% most of the time
(been too busy at work to work much on the plane anyway). Is there a risk that
the wooden parts (at the moment I'm thinking about the plywood in the tailplanes)
will absorb too much moisture which will be sealed into the wood? Is this
harmful? Can these wooden parts rot? I understand that when building wooden
aircraft controlling the humidity of your workshop is important so the wood will
not be too dry nor too "damp". Humidity can (be forced to) rapidly drop to
allow epoxy work but I doubt wood "dries out" as quickly.
Am I worrying too much or can this actually be a problem?
Philip (Tri-gear #426)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | rnator warning lamp |
Message text written by "Barahona Alonso, Francisco Javier"
><
The diode (LED) is a current limited device. Use the 480 ohm resistor
otherwise you will cook the diode. Some LEDs can tolerate higher currents
than others. As the voltage drop across an LED is small, about 2 volts (it
varies with different colour outputs) selection of the series resistor can
be calculated by assuming there is 10v across it. Don't run it too close to
its current limit to improve reliability. The last few mA does not give
much extra brightness anyway. There was some talk that the Rotax regulator
needs to see a minimum load for the warning light so you may find that if
you particularly wish to use an LED you might need to put a resistor in
parallel to increase the load.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RF exposure hazards . . . |
> . . . . Considering the transponder only
>transmits a low duty cycle burst and is receiving most of the time, it's
>probably not a problem. This also would fall under the guidelines for a
>controlled environment, meaning the occupants can be told they are sitting in
>an RF field, and the transmitter can be turned off if so desired. Between
>the low power and intermittent low power transmit, I would be pretty certain
>everybody will be fine. It certainly is an area worth learning a little bit
>about. It's a complex concept, and isn't always fully understood by even the
>experts. I still think getting the antennas as far away from the
occupants is
>a good idea.
>> . . . . . In the prototype we installed it outside the
>> shell, below the passenger seat, and then had the whole area above the
>> composite shell covered with a thin alum sheet to act as the ground plane
>> and to protect the passenger from any radiation. (Remember, I was the
>> one who sat on the passenger side in all those demos). I always wondered
>> how effective the alum sheet was in protecting my body. So far, so good.
Concerns for radiation safety and transponders surface from
time to time in aviation circles . . . especially when some
folk read that certain models of tranpsonders put out "600 Watts".
Flags go up and statements are made to the effect, "Gee, my microwave
oven is only 600 watts and it will really toast things . . ."
The "600 Watt Out" and the "toasty foods" are both true statments
but unrelated to each other. Tranponders are rated for PEAK power
output during the few tens of microseconds/second while replying to
an interrogation. Microwave ovens are rated in CONTINUOUS or
HEATING power output which will indeed "toast things".
A transponder's very low AVERAGE power output, presents no
hazard even at 600 watts peak. Most modern transponders
are rated at only 100 to 200 watts peak . . . the need for big
transmitters has evaporated given improvements in solid
state receiving amplifers used at modern radar sites.
Long and Vari-Ez builders were oft cautioned about shielding
the family jewels from ravages of "tranponsder onslaught"
by lining the seat pan with copper foil. In fact, both the concern
and the practice were unfounded in physics.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
<045843978CF3A038*/c=de/admd=dbp/prmd=zeiss/o=notes/ou=Oko/s=Mondon/g=Dietmar/@MHS>
| From: | Dietmar Mondon <mondon(at)zeiss.de> |
Hi folks !
as if planned, today afternoon the U.S. based webserver, carrying Thomas's webpage,
went down...
we are expecting recovery soon ...
News: due to a heavy load of many tiny little things to be done beforehand ...Thomas's
departure from Bonn/Germany
is shifted to tomorrow, Saturday, 22. July. ...
...stay tuned ...
Best regards
Dietmar Mondon
CZO / Competence Center Logistik
Tel.: ++49-(0)7364-20-8119
Fax.:++49-(0)7364-20-4674
mondon(at)zeiss.de
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory, Mike" <M.J.Gregory(at)cranfield.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Alternator warning lamp |
A word of caution for those of you planning to make modifications of the
electrical circuit recommended for the Rotax 912 series engine and its
associated voltage regulator. Please remember that, although Rotax state
that the low voltage warning light is optional (and therefore could be
omitted without affecting the operation of the regulator), the circuit was
designed to operate with a 12 volt/3 watt lamp. If you substitute a device
such as an LED that draws a much lower current, then it may not reliably
indicate when there is a low voltage condition -- for example, it may give a
false warning and light when the alternator output voltage is normal.
If you are determined to use an LED, then it could be wired in parallel with
a resistor that would draw additional current to bring the total up to the
250 milliamps of the 3 watt lamp, say 50 ohms -- but it would of course have
to be one of 3 watts rating (say, how about using a 3 watt lamp?).
This brings us to the question of why you would wish to make any change --
are you trying to improve reliability, or to save current when the
alternator has failed and you are relying on the battery to get your home?
You might experiment to see how little current you can get away with, but I
suspect individual regulators would vary in their requirement. I am sure
that there are many electronics experts out there who would be only too
happy to offer you a circuit that would take very little current to drive an
LED when there was a low voltage condition.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Fillinger
Subject: Re: Alternator warning lamp
Hi, Javier --
Light-emitting diodes have a voltage drop of about
2 volts, and the typical variety wants no more
than 20 milliamps. So, 10/.02 = 500, or a 470 or
510 ohm resistor (1/4 watt OK) is what you want.
Regards
Fred Fillinger, A063
> Barahona Alonso, Francisco Javier wrote:
>
> Dear friends,
>
> Months ago somebody advised me about the
> possibility of substituting the alternator
> warning lamp (3W, 12V) for a diode plus a 480
> Ohms resistor. Making calculations I obtain
> that I need a resistor of 48 Ohms instead:
>
> R = (V
2)/P = (12
2)/3 = 48
>
> I do not know which is the resistance of the
> diode. Could somebody confirm me which of both
> resistors, 48 or 480 Ohms should I use?
>
> Best regards.
>
> Javier Barahona (Classic #187)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Davis" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
I got but have now lost the Epinal Frequencies for the RSA rally.
If somebody has them I would be grateful if they send them to me.
Jerry
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Andy and others,
I have just recently done my leading edges and ended up with agood result
with one exception. The skin that I wrapped around the underside of the
spar did not stick well in a couple of places. These places were not as
well supported by the plastic angle as the others, obscurred by my spar
jig. I know that the uppermost surface, and the spar sides, were well
sanded prior to bonding and layup work respectively. I do however think I
may have omitted a good sanding of the underside of my spars, other than a
cursory light sand some time ago. The areas not bonded to the spar equate
to about 5% of each surface, if that. If I insert a chisel or knife and
lever at the sides of the bond between the cloth and the spar, and lever, I
can migrate outward the "unbonded area".
Now my problem is that I don't recall my original sanding was a thourough
one, and yet 95% of the cloth has bonded well it apprears to the spar. If I
try and lever underneath any other area it is nearly impossible as I used
peel ply and have a good resin transition onto the spar. Of course, if I
lever outward from an already unbonded area, I can exacerbate my problem.
I see my option as being:
1) inject resin underneath the unbonded area not well supported during
cure, and continue with the trailing edge block attachment
2) inject resin and place BID straps 1" wide, overlapping ontop of the
bottom and top surfaces that are wrapped behind the spar locking the skins
together at an arbitrary 300-450mm apart. These straps would not wrap onto
wing skins, but would sit in recesses sanded into the trailing edge blocks.
3) cut away the skin that has been wrapped behind the spar and apply the
bid brackets as per the new manual. It would seem a pity to negate the
whole wrapping process, which as a generalisation "went quite well". At the
same time I would end up with bumps on my skins at the spar that would
require more filling.
4) Apply the same amount of BID that the new manual requires as a bracket,
however rather than apply it ontop of the skins and around onto the rear
face of the spar, have it overlap the already wrapped skin that now sits
behind the spar (with questionable bonding), and then transition it down
onto a thoroughly sanded spar. This results in the same amount of keyed
bond between spar and skin, albeit this area now bridges over wing skin
that may not have ideal bonding. Any force of the skins wanting to depart
the spar will want to tear the wrapped cloth upward/downward, therefore if
the bridged skin cloth is a stable structure in itself (which it is), the
force is simply transferred closer to the middle of the rear face of the
spar where it would be bonded. I should end up with equivalent strength and
equivalent weight to the new manual method without the bumps on the skins.
The only drawback is my trailing edge blocks will sit about 1-1 1/2 mm off
the spar, so I will need to trim them nominally.
These steps are in order of weight gain to my wings and I am hopeful that
suggestion 1) will be adaquate. I can only say that I feel, "even well
keyed layups may well separate at overlapped joints if you lever them apart
at their union", so I am probably being overconservative. Because I don't
know of the required strength of this bond I feel however that I should ask
and end up with the best result.
I await your advice at your earliest convenience.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
P.S. with such a wealth of knowledge and opinion out there, I have sent
this also to the forum to see what others think of my dilemna. (Any
personal response however I will obviously keep confidential!) Thanks Andy.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J D Bean <JohnBean(at)compuserve.com> |
I am tinkering with fitting aerials into my fuselage. I have a Bob Archer
transponder unit close to the tail bulkhead and will fit a Bob Archer VHF
unit on the fuselage side behind the baggage bay bulkhead.
When listening to my radio in my workshop on FM 101.3 I notice that if my
GPS aerial is within about 4 feet there is noticable interference. Are
there any known restrictions on aerial locations and distances between
differing aerials? I am hoping to fit a GPS aerial in the fuselage roof
somewhere near the old fuel filler position but this may be a bit close to
the VHF aerial.
Any suggestions as to a suitable make of internally mounted GPS aerial for
a Skyforce 2?
I notice that my present GPS aerial is connected with a small outside
diameter co-axial cable with SMC (or something like that) co-axial
connectors. What is the latest thought on suitable aerial co-axial wire and
connectors and can the more modern lightweight higher performance cables be
used?
Thanks for any help. John Bean (kit 23)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William S. Stewart" <bill(at)helixsys.com> |
After only about 90 landings, the tire on XS monowheel N6LB is almost out
of tread, and will have to be replaced shortly. Are they any suggestions
out there for a replacement with better wear characteristics than the one
supplied with the kit?
Bill Stewart, N6LB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Genotte <gopack(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | , that's done... |
Cockpit module's in and curing. I'll post details on the web site later
for the two regular readers.
Steve G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
J D Bean wrote:
>
> When listening to my radio in my workshop on FM 101.3 I notice
> that if my GPS aerial is within about 4 feet there is noticable
> interference. Are there any known restrictions on aerial locations
> and distances between differing aerials?
If you're referring to interference heard on FM
from the GPS, that may be no more than the DC-DC
upverter for the electro-luminescent display
backlight. Not a problem with antennas
remote-mounted from such noise sources.
The general rule is keep all antennas 2 feet from
each other (that's about 1/4 wavelength at VHF),
and a similar distance from any metal item 1/2
wave-length+ in length -- e.g., the pitch push
rod. Some comm mfr's say keep the comm antenna as
far away from the ELT antenna as possible, as some
ELT's re-radiate certain freq's, such as 121.15,
which garbles comm output at that freq.
Theoretically the transponder antenna needs to be
only be 6" from any other (altho the coax itself
may present a detuning element, so back to the 2'
rule, with reference to a nearby VHF antenna).
> I am hoping to fit a GPS aerial in the fuselage roof somewhere near the
> old fuel filler position but this may be a bit close to the VHF aerial.
GPS operates at 1.5 gHz, meaning 1/4 wavelength is
also very small. My UPS GX-65 GPS map/comm manual
makes no big deal about placement (except on top,
in a metal A/C of course). Two-foot rule again
from any VHF antenna.
> I notice that my present GPS aerial is connected with a small outside
> diameter co-axial cable with SMC (or something like that) co-axial
> connectors. What is the latest thought on suitable aerial co-axial wire
> and connectors and can the more modern lightweight higher performance
> cables be used?
I've seen "TNC" connectors on GPS, but whatever.
Anything you need can be found at mouser.com, no
lower limit on order amount. digi-key.comm, too.
Important, though is the coax cable. UPS
recommends RG-142B coax for its GPS, which is hard
to find. RG-400 should be OK, but it's $2.00/ft
(from Aircraft Spruce).
Ditto for the transponder -- at least RG-400;
don't use RG-58 at gigaHertz frequencies (GPS and
xpndr).
> I have a Bob Archer transponder unit close to the tail bulkhead.
I hate to be finicky here, but is that xpndr
antenna easily movable?
At the tail bulkhead, you're probably busting the
9-foot coax length limit specified by both King
and Narco, and at $2 a foot. When you're checking
in with an Approach Control facility, you're
basically pointed right at their receiving
antenna, so the signal will have to pass by a
number of metal bits, plus thru RF
energy-abosorbers like your body and a spinning
carbon-fiber prop like a Warp Drive. The antenna
I think should be near the lowest point on the
fuselage bottom. There's enough sensitivity in
ATC's receivers to handle a wide range of
variabilty in xpndr installation and in-service
degradation, but for optimum performance, the tail
of an Europa isn't the best place for an xpndr
antenna, IMHO.
Also, when you run coax cables up to the panel,
keep the xpndr one separate from any other.
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
I am not entiely convinced that ZK-UBD has its outriggers set to the correct
length. We are getting a _lot_ of lateral movement one up which can the
"entertaining" at times. The outrigger arms have been cut to the correct
length per the manual but there is still a large gap to the ground.
Could someone with a flying XS or classic with XS tailwheel conversion
measure the gap from the bottom of the outrigger wheel to the ground (on the
one that's not touching the ground!), when the aircraft is unladen. If
practical I'd also like the figures for one up.
Thanks
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | For those Oshkosh bound.... |
> So, exactly how fast does a goat with its tail on fire go?
About 135 knots before I ran out of downwind!
At 21" the only reason the plane climbs is because the earth is round :-)
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
The MCreary Airtrack 700 x 6 makes a good substitute. You'll need to retain
the original inner tube as the
europa wheel needs the bend in the valve housing. (Anyone want a genuine
unused Mcreary 700 x 6 inner tube - I learnt that the McCreary tube doesn't
fit the Europa wheel the expensive way!)
I am surprised the tyre (sic) has worn out so quickly. We have done 200+
landings onto seal in ZK-UBD in the last three weeks with no problems. I
have logged 55 this week alone.
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
Subject: Monowheel Tire
After only about 90 landings, the tire on XS monowheel N6LB is almost out
of tread, and will have to be replaced shortly. Are they any suggestions
out there for a replacement with better wear characteristics than the one
supplied with the kit?
Bill Stewart, N6LB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Simpson" <Dave_Simpson(at)londonweb.net> |
I have noticed some RF interference on coms radiating from hand-held GPS
receivers, even with their back lights off. I've checked the Garmin 195 and
the Lowrance Airmap and both interfere if the coms antenna is close to the
receiver, ie. within 2 feet. There was also RF radiating from the antenna
and its lead in both cases.
My suspicion is that switching edges at the high clock speeds used within
the GPS receivers are the culprit, but I have no way of proving it. Although
the case of the GPS itself may be shielded, the radiation can escape via the
antenna lead. Trying to shield such radiation is notoriously difficult if
it's at high frequencies because even short lengths of line to ground
present high impedances at the frequencies we're talking about. Best bet is
to keep the aerial feeds as short as possible and stick to Fred's 2' rule
for antenna location.
A fast and dirty way of checking if there is likely to be a problem with a
GPS is to wave a hand held airband radio around the GPS receiver and its
antenna. Turn the squelch off and you will get some feel for what's going
on.
Dave Simpson
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net>
Date: 23 July 2000 07:01
Subject: Re: Aerials
>J D Bean wrote:
>>
>> When listening to my radio in my workshop on FM 101.3 I notice
>> that if my GPS aerial is within about 4 feet there is noticable
>> interference. Are there any known restrictions on aerial locations
>> and distances between differing aerials?
>
>If you're referring to interference heard on FM
>from the GPS, that may be no more than the DC-DC
>upverter for the electro-luminescent display
>backlight. Not a problem with antennas
>remote-mounted from such noise sources.
>
>The general rule is keep all antennas 2 feet from
>each other (that's about 1/4 wavelength at VHF),
>and a similar distance from any metal item 1/2
>wave-length+ in length -- e.g., the pitch push
>rod. Some comm mfr's say keep the comm antenna as
>far away from the ELT antenna as possible, as some
>ELT's re-radiate certain freq's, such as 121.15,
>which garbles comm output at that freq.
>Theoretically the transponder antenna needs to be
>only be 6" from any other (altho the coax itself
>may present a detuning element, so back to the 2'
>rule, with reference to a nearby VHF antenna).
>
>> I am hoping to fit a GPS aerial in the fuselage roof somewhere near the
>> old fuel filler position but this may be a bit close to the VHF aerial.
>
>GPS operates at 1.5 gHz, meaning 1/4 wavelength is
>also very small. My UPS GX-65 GPS map/comm manual
>makes no big deal about placement (except on top,
>in a metal A/C of course). Two-foot rule again
>from any VHF antenna.
>
>> I notice that my present GPS aerial is connected with a small outside
>> diameter co-axial cable with SMC (or something like that) co-axial
>> connectors. What is the latest thought on suitable aerial co-axial wire
>> and connectors and can the more modern lightweight higher performance
>> cables be used?
>
>I've seen "TNC" connectors on GPS, but whatever.
>Anything you need can be found at mouser.com, no
>lower limit on order amount. digi-key.comm, too.
>
>Important, though is the coax cable. UPS
>recommends RG-142B coax for its GPS, which is hard
>to find. RG-400 should be OK, but it's $2.00/ft
>(from Aircraft Spruce).
>
>Ditto for the transponder -- at least RG-400;
>don't use RG-58 at gigaHertz frequencies (GPS and
>xpndr).
>
>> I have a Bob Archer transponder unit close to the tail bulkhead.
>
>I hate to be finicky here, but is that xpndr
>antenna easily movable?
>At the tail bulkhead, you're probably busting the
>9-foot coax length limit specified by both King
>and Narco, and at $2 a foot. When you're checking
>in with an Approach Control facility, you're
>basically pointed right at their receiving
>antenna, so the signal will have to pass by a
>number of metal bits, plus thru RF
>energy-abosorbers like your body and a spinning
>carbon-fiber prop like a Warp Drive. The antenna
>I think should be near the lowest point on the
>fuselage bottom. There's enough sensitivity in
>ATC's receivers to handle a wide range of
>variabilty in xpndr installation and in-service
>degradation, but for optimum performance, the tail
>of an Europa isn't the best place for an xpndr
>antenna, IMHO.
>
>Also, when you run coax cables up to the panel,
>keep the xpndr one separate from any other.
>
>Hope this helps!
>
>Regards,
>Fred Fillinger, A063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Davis" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
I have GPS interferance between some GPS units and Icom radios. I think its
due to the processor and clock. Dave mentioned waving a handset around the
unit. Also try auto scaning the handheld to see if it stops and locks on the
GPS inteferance. Most only play up on a few frequencies. You can have radio
and GPS installed side by side for hours and not know you have a problem
until one day you go to a new field that just happens to use a frequency
that is particularly susceptable.
Jerry
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Simpson <Dave_Simpson(at)londonweb.net>
Subject: Re: Aerials
> I have noticed some RF interference on coms radiating from hand-held GPS
> receivers, even with their back lights off. I've checked the Garmin 195
and
> the Lowrance Airmap and both interfere if the coms antenna is close to the
> receiver, ie. within 2 feet. There was also RF radiating from the antenna
> and its lead in both cases.
>
> My suspicion is that switching edges at the high clock speeds used within
> the GPS receivers are the culprit, but I have no way of proving it.
Although
> the case of the GPS itself may be shielded, the radiation can escape via
the
> antenna lead. Trying to shield such radiation is notoriously difficult if
> it's at high frequencies because even short lengths of line to ground
> present high impedances at the frequencies we're talking about. Best bet
is
> to keep the aerial feeds as short as possible and stick to Fred's 2' rule
> for antenna location.
>
> A fast and dirty way of checking if there is likely to be a problem with a
> GPS is to wave a hand held airband radio around the GPS receiver and its
> antenna. Turn the squelch off and you will get some feel for what's going
> on.
>
> Dave Simpson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net>
> Date: 23 July 2000 07:01
> Subject: Re: Aerials
>
>
> >J D Bean wrote:
> >>
> >> When listening to my radio in my workshop on FM 101.3 I notice
> >> that if my GPS aerial is within about 4 feet there is noticable
> >> interference. Are there any known restrictions on aerial locations
> >> and distances between differing aerials?
> >
> >If you're referring to interference heard on FM
> >from the GPS, that may be no more than the DC-DC
> >upverter for the electro-luminescent display
> >backlight. Not a problem with antennas
> >remote-mounted from such noise sources.
> >
> >The general rule is keep all antennas 2 feet from
> >each other (that's about 1/4 wavelength at VHF),
> >and a similar distance from any metal item 1/2
> >wave-length+ in length -- e.g., the pitch push
> >rod. Some comm mfr's say keep the comm antenna as
> >far away from the ELT antenna as possible, as some
> >ELT's re-radiate certain freq's, such as 121.15,
> >which garbles comm output at that freq.
> >Theoretically the transponder antenna needs to be
> >only be 6" from any other (altho the coax itself
> >may present a detuning element, so back to the 2'
> >rule, with reference to a nearby VHF antenna).
> >
> >> I am hoping to fit a GPS aerial in the fuselage roof somewhere near the
> >> old fuel filler position but this may be a bit close to the VHF aerial.
> >
> >GPS operates at 1.5 gHz, meaning 1/4 wavelength is
> >also very small. My UPS GX-65 GPS map/comm manual
> >makes no big deal about placement (except on top,
> >in a metal A/C of course). Two-foot rule again
> >from any VHF antenna.
> >
> >> I notice that my present GPS aerial is connected with a small outside
> >> diameter co-axial cable with SMC (or something like that) co-axial
> >> connectors. What is the latest thought on suitable aerial co-axial
wire
> >> and connectors and can the more modern lightweight higher performance
> >> cables be used?
> >
> >I've seen "TNC" connectors on GPS, but whatever.
> >Anything you need can be found at mouser.com, no
> >lower limit on order amount. digi-key.comm, too.
> >
> >Important, though is the coax cable. UPS
> >recommends RG-142B coax for its GPS, which is hard
> >to find. RG-400 should be OK, but it's $2.00/ft
> >(from Aircraft Spruce).
> >
> >Ditto for the transponder -- at least RG-400;
> >don't use RG-58 at gigaHertz frequencies (GPS and
> >xpndr).
> >
> >> I have a Bob Archer transponder unit close to the tail bulkhead.
> >
> >I hate to be finicky here, but is that xpndr
> >antenna easily movable?
> >At the tail bulkhead, you're probably busting the
> >9-foot coax length limit specified by both King
> >and Narco, and at $2 a foot. When you're checking
> >in with an Approach Control facility, you're
> >basically pointed right at their receiving
> >antenna, so the signal will have to pass by a
> >number of metal bits, plus thru RF
> >energy-abosorbers like your body and a spinning
> >carbon-fiber prop like a Warp Drive. The antenna
> >I think should be near the lowest point on the
> >fuselage bottom. There's enough sensitivity in
> >ATC's receivers to handle a wide range of
> >variabilty in xpndr installation and in-service
> >degradation, but for optimum performance, the tail
> >of an Europa isn't the best place for an xpndr
> >antenna, IMHO.
> >
> >Also, when you run coax cables up to the panel,
> >keep the xpndr one separate from any other.
> >
> >Hope this helps!
> >
> >Regards,
> >Fred Fillinger, A063
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
Message forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. For sender, see foot of
message.
****************************************
The relationship between comm systems and GPS is now well documented.
Check out http://www.upsat.com/dwnlds/gxdoc/gx506065-install-v30-r03.pdf
for a manufacturer specific set of guidleines, which also aply
to all other comm/gps set ups.
I followed these and have no problems with breakthrough or desensitization
peter
Peter Bondar, Vice President Marketing
Tarantella Inc.
email: pb(at)tarantella.com
web: http://www.tarantella.com
European tel: +44 7901 516259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TroyMaynor(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Outrigger length |
In a message dated 7/23/00 3:45:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz
writes:
<< Could someone with a flying XS or classic with XS tailwheel conversion
measure the gap from the bottom of the outrigger wheel to the ground (on the
one that's not touching the ground!), when the aircraft is unladen. If
practical I'd also like the figures for one up.
>>
Hi All,
I've been wondering the same thing. You can't hardly go by the diminsions
published because it seems to me that with the small variations in doing the
tailwheel mod and positions of the main gear components, you would need to
custom fit the outriggers with the plane on a level surface. I'm guessing it
should have some rock laterally and not a four point contact. Mine is also a
classic with the mod.
Curiously awaiting.
Troy-# 120
________________________________________________________________________________
Outrigger lengths
Although my Europa is in the hangar at present so I can't measure it, I do
know I was sent a pair of extended legs with the tailwheel mod. I seem to
recall the instructions calling out about 1-2 inches space between each wheel
and the ground with wings level and thats about what I've got. It does flex a
little when the wheel touches ground in either direction. Doesn't give me any
real problems although it did seem a bit strange at first till I got used to
the tipping sensation.
Happy landings!
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
Practically all modern avionics boxes have
multiple oscillators inside, unlike earilier
generation stuff. This does mean boxes installed
near or adjacent to each other can be a problem
unless each box has adequate internal shielding.
I know of no proof of this, but I theorize that
installations in plastic instrument panels in
plastic planes are more suceptible. It follows
that one's chosen "stack" should be wired and
bench-checked for interference prior to cutting
panel holes, or at least I plan on doing that.
Regarding comm xmit interference on GPS, it is
true that there are certain comm freq's whose
harmonics can degrade GPS reception. Comm
transmissions are short, so the problem is
transitory and can be latent to the user,
depending on how the GPS is programmed. I tried a
hand-held comm on the offending freq's, and even
an inch from a Garmin GPS-III, while the
signal-strength "thermometers" went haywire, she
never unlocked even after 20 seconds of xmit. At 2
feet (even one foot, allowing for the lower xmit
pwr), the GPS signal strength meters barely
moved. So, the further away the better. And, as
last resort, a sectional chart?
Neat idea to use the scanning feature to hunt for
interference freq's heard on the comm. Just watch
for the ones that may be always out there (alien
spacecraft?), even when the box under test is off.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063
Jerry Davis wrote:
>
> I have GPS interferance between some GPS units and Icom radios. I think its
> due to the processor and clock. Dave mentioned waving a handset around the
> unit. Also try auto scaning the handheld to see if it stops and locks on the
> GPS inteferance. Most only play up on a few frequencies. You can have radio
> and GPS installed side by side for hours and not know you have a problem
> until one day you go to a new field that just happens to use a frequency
> that is particularly susceptable.
>
> Jerry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hedley Brown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Tire (sic..Tyre?) |
I'm all forlorn and sick and tired
of fudging my Europa,
although its wheel is slick and Tyred
the rest is a no-hoper.
Now one, of Mittel-Europe name,
espousing standards Yankee,
has built a Yorkshire-English plane
but finds our 'English' cranky.
(to tune of 'My Fair Lady')
Why can't the English make an English nut and bolt,
the English make their Purdy as well as Yankee's Colt;
Kirby Moorsides' Aeroplanes are sold with English hype
but aviation hardware's - all
Yank
Type!
Except in wars our little land
can not an aircraft trade command.
We're good at words, with trade we're slow:
chaque un, I say, should have son mot.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Monowheel Tire
> The MCreary Airtrack 700 x 6 makes a good substitute. You'll need to
retain
> the original inner tube as the
> europa wheel needs the bend in the valve housing. (Anyone want a genuine
> unused Mcreary 700 x 6 inner tube - I learnt that the McCreary tube
doesn't
> fit the Europa wheel the expensive way!)
>
> I am surprised the tyre (sic) has worn out so quickly. We have done 200+
> landings onto seal in ZK-UBD in the last three weeks with no problems. I
> have logged 55 this week alone.
>
>
> Tony
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
> Subject: Monowheel Tire
>
>
> After only about 90 landings, the tire on XS monowheel N6LB is almost out
> of tread, and will have to be replaced shortly. Are they any suggestions
> out there for a replacement with better wear characteristics than the one
> supplied with the kit?
>
> Bill Stewart, N6LB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
<3975ED06.6AFABF1C(at)cisco.com>
> I am not convinced that two blades are more efficient than three.
> Especially on the Rotax 912S which has a higher reduction ratio. It may
> be more efficient to have two blades at high speeds but my money is on
> three blades in the takeoff and climb phase. For us in the UK that's a
> major consideration. I'll put my three blades up against two any day of
> the week.
>Jerry
I agree. As I understand it 2 blades will give more theoretical efficiency
but unfortunately also more vibration. When the blades are moving
vertically one has a higher AoA than the other because of the pitch
attitude of the aircraft. With more blades it evens out and is smoother. I
suspect the vibration in the yaw direction might well degrade the laminar
flow a bit, so more drag.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | in at Hardwick 12 Aug 00 |
I've received an invite for Europa Club members to join the Fly-in at
Hardwick on 12 Aug 2000.
"PPR ***ESSENTIAL***
Glorious 12th Fly-In
Hardwick Classic Aircraft invite you to help revitalise this
underused wartime aerodrome - Hardwick Airfield.
12NM S Norwich, CLN 114.55 012 38, BKY 116.25 061 54
RW 13/31 1300mx20m concrete.
PPR in advance on 01508 534900 or 01508 558167; fax 01379 855374.
PPR on the day on 07860 925407 or 07802 611647.
Weather from Norwich ATIS 128.625, phone 01603 420640.
Please accept briefing on landing procedures BEFORE arrival.
NO CIRCUITS.
Arr RW 13 on hdg 150, arr RW 31 on hdg 330.
Dep RW 13, turn onto 170 ASAP, dep RW 31, turn onto 330 ASAP.
Beware farm strips 500m ENE threshold of RW 31 (Airfield Farm) and
1NM WSW (Nut Tree Farm).
No landing fee - but contributions towards maintenance gratefully received.
Aeroshop on site
Refreshments
Maintenance available
100LL"
Don't forget Prior Permission Required!
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Beck <EuropaChris(at)netscape.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders?] |
I believe Jerry is correct regarding the 3 blader being better at low speeds.
I went through this in college for my Aero. Eng. degree. It's all in the
math, and the difference is fairly significant, although I don't remember it
being more than 10% in static thrust. It's been awhile, so this is all off
the top of my head. I think it's due to the lower disc loading on a 3 blade
prop at low airspeeds giving more efficiency, but at high airspeeds, the
increased parasitic drag of the 3rd blade starts to dominate.
I should have asked Bob yesterday, as he, Michele, and Ed were so kind as to
show up at our house yesterday on the way to Oshkosh with a big yellow truck
and drop of stage 2 and 3 of our kit. He did mention to me that the Whirlwind
was a really slick prop, when the time came for us to go prop shopping. Not
cheap, tho.
5 days 'til we go to Oshkosh...it's nice being a 45 minute drive away..
Chris Beck
A159
Graham Singleton wrote:
> > I am not convinced that two blades are more efficient than three.
> > Especially on the Rotax 912S which has a higher reduction ratio. It may
> > be more efficient to have two blades at high speeds but my money is on
> > three blades in the takeoff and climb phase. For us in the UK that's a
> > major consideration. I'll put my three blades up against two any day of
> > the week.
> >Jerry
>
> I agree. As I understand it 2 blades will give more theoretical efficiency
> but unfortunately also more vibration. When the blades are moving
> vertically one has a higher AoA than the other because of the pitch
> attitude of the aircraft. With more blades it evens out and is smoother. I
> suspect the vibration in the yaw direction might well degrade the laminar
> flow a bit, so more drag.
>
> Graham
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Outrigger lengths |
I spoke to Neville at the Ferretworks last night (day?).
The current recommendation is to adjust the legs so that they are only just
clear of the ground unladen. With pilot on board both will be in contact and
fully laden will have pressure on them.
He also stated that there have now been three lengths of leg - classic,
original XS and now a longer XS.
Another recommendation, if lengthening the leg was to use a short length of
old leg to back the root of the new leg within the socket.
I ordered new outriggers for both ZK-TSK and ZK-UBD last night.
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
Subject: Outrigger lengths
Outrigger lengths
Although my Europa is in the hangar at present so I can't measure it, I do
know I was sent a pair of extended legs with the tailwheel mod. I seem to
recall the instructions calling out about 1-2 inches space between each
wheel
and the ground with wings level and thats about what I've got. It does flex
a
little when the wheel touches ground in either direction. Doesn't give me
any
real problems although it did seem a bit strange at first till I got used to
the tipping sensation.
Happy landings!
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Monowheel Tire (sic..Tyre?) |
That one is going to get framed.
Many thanks for starting my day with a smile
I see that you couldn't find anything to rhyme with Krzyzewski so left it
out :-)
Tony
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Monowheel Tire (sic..Tyre?)
I'm all forlorn and sick and tired
of fudging my Europa,
although its wheel is slick and Tyred
the rest is a no-hoper.
Now one, of Mittel-Europe name,
espousing standards Yankee,
has built a Yorkshire-English plane
but finds our 'English' cranky.
(to tune of 'My Fair Lady')
Why can't the English make an English nut and bolt,
the English make their Purdy as well as Yankee's Colt;
Kirby Moorsides' Aeroplanes are sold with English hype
but aviation hardware's - all
Yank
Type!
Except in wars our little land
can not an aircraft trade command.
We're good at words, with trade we're slow:
chaque un, I say, should have son mot.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Monowheel Tire
> The MCreary Airtrack 700 x 6 makes a good substitute. You'll need to
retain
> the original inner tube as the
> europa wheel needs the bend in the valve housing. (Anyone want a genuine
> unused Mcreary 700 x 6 inner tube - I learnt that the McCreary tube
doesn't
> fit the Europa wheel the expensive way!)
>
> I am surprised the tyre (sic) has worn out so quickly. We have done 200+
> landings onto seal in ZK-UBD in the last three weeks with no problems. I
> have logged 55 this week alone.
>
>
> Tony
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
> Subject: Monowheel Tire
>
>
> After only about 90 landings, the tire on XS monowheel N6LB is almost out
> of tread, and will have to be replaced shortly. Are they any suggestions
> out there for a replacement with better wear characteristics than the one
> supplied with the kit?
>
> Bill Stewart, N6LB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ami mcfadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Outrigger lengths |
Difficult, isn`t it?!!
The factory newsletters provide some clues. Early on they suggest that there
should be 3" of daylight under one of the outrigger wheels with the other
just touching the ground (presumably with a/c unloaded).
Later on it was identified that too much clearance led to more skill being
needed for handling. So clearance was suggested at 1" to 1 1/2".
Too little clearance creates too much drag however, especially in grass.
Take your pick I guess.
Duncan McFadyean
-----Original Message-----
From: MJKTuck(at)cs.com <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 3:10 AM
Subject: Outrigger lengths
>Outrigger lengths
>
>Although my Europa is in the hangar at present so I can't measure it, I do
>know I was sent a pair of extended legs with the tailwheel mod. I seem to
>recall the instructions calling out about 1-2 inches space between each
wheel
>and the ground with wings level and thats about what I've got. It does flex
a
>little when the wheel touches ground in either direction. Doesn't give me
any
>real problems although it did seem a bit strange at first till I got used
to
>the tipping sensation.
>
>Happy landings!
>Martin Tuck
>N152MT
>Wichita, Kansas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | ld Kovac, are you out there? |
I'm trying to send Harold Kovac the mod instructions he requested
some time back, but I cannot find a working e-mail address for him.
If you're listening out there, Harold, let me know your current
e-mail address. The rest of you just delete this message before
reading.
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Outrigger length |
>I am not entiely convinced that ZK-UBD has its outriggers set to the correct
>length. We are getting a _lot_ of lateral movement one up which can the
>"entertaining" at times. The outrigger arms have been cut to the correct
>length per the manual but there is still a large gap to the ground.
Hi Tony,
I'm not convinced that length is an issue, I recommend you take take off in
steps, at least until it is second nature.
1 Stick hard back.
2 Full power, concentrate on keeping straight with rudder and wait for
aileron control.
3 Level the wings
4 Stick will now be pulling hard so ease it forward and Europa will levitate.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Cheers:
(probably few as I am slow), I have some stats gleaned from the log
which MAY prove of casual interest......
I have now spent 1158 hours building, and many more arranging,
preparing, staffing and sorting. To date I have built Vert. fin, rudder,
stabs and tabs and both wings (with the 1/2" bolts mod).
The weather finally broke this week with night temps of 14deg C and day
maximums of a dry 22 - 25deg C., perfect for filling wings, I thought.
This morning I spent three hours filling the stbd wing bottom surface.
This completes the set. This aft, I spent three hours sanding it all off
the port wing bottom. This last is not finished, but it's a promising
start.
My method has been to moisten the surfaces with MEK to repel oils and
sand the surfaces by hand (per the manual) to give initial teeth to the
filling. I have found that a VERY CURSORY layer of epoxy on the wing
afetrward, tends to thicken during the 45 minutes it takes me to mix all
that airy-fairy plastic Xpancel into the mix. This really makes the fill
stick when applied and as an adjunct, gives me a super view into the
structure, as it makes the surface transparent. Let me say that I used
only about 45 grams of epoxy per wing top/bottom, by cutting a Chinese
brush short to 3/4" and "stippling" the epoxy sparingly onto the surface
(took about 30 minutes to stipple and leaves a muted shine). The epoxy
is disarmingly liquid in that it imperceptibly wandered down into every
tiny pore. Having done the stabs and tabs, I had an inkling as to the
ratios of surface area to weight of fill. It turned out that mixing the
fill to bread dough consistancy took 45 minutes for a pot - and piles of
@#$%
& patience, as the airy-fairy tends to leap from the mix before you
can incorporate it. Nevertheless I found that for separate mixes, I
averaged 8.3% of the weight of mix was Xpancel, over a seven mix series.
I then used this to preweigh the #$%
& so as to have a chosen box of it
available as soon as the epoxy was finished on the mixer. This speeds
up the process
As for what I added to fill the wings, I kept a log of weights of
materials. I was afraid of wildly differing numbers when I began the
second wing, but ir all averaged out fairly consistently:
e=epoxy mix; x=#$%
xpancel; m=fill mix
TOP Starboard WING: 40e(stipple) + (575e + 93x) = 40e + 668m
BOTM " WING: 45e + (340e + 42x) = 45e + 382m
STARBOARD WING TOTAL: 85e + 1050g MIX
TOP Port WING : 45e + (394.4e + 44x)= 45e + 429m
BOTM " WING : 51e + (533e + 53x)= 51e + 586m
PORT WING TOTAL : 96e + 1015g MIX
So, what I have added to each wing is less than 100g epoxy to prepare
the surface, and about a kilo of #$%
& mix to fill. There are a number
of minor additions in the way of leading edge and installation jobs
which will add a minimal amount, but that'sd basically it. I have no
idea what will be sanded off, so don't know what the end result will be
as far as weight goes. Plus (actually MINUS) some weight will be
diffused gasses in future curing and baking.
STARBOARD bottom, 3.5 on the PORT bottom, and 3.0 on the STARBOARD top
in that order - so there is a learning curve! (plus my wife did some
stippling).
I don't know if this is any use to anyone, but perhaps it was worth
chronicling for comparison. XS wings are just a dream here.....
Happy Landings,
Ferg #A064 (319)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Is there an expert out there who can explain how the Balun works!
There is no physical electical connection of the center wire
of the coax as explained in the Kitfox assembly manual and it
just does not look like it should work! The shield is split and
the VOR cat's whiskers are connected to each of the split ends of
the shielded wire.
There are three or four commonly used "balun" (short for balanced
to unbalanced) fabrication techniques using coaxial cable. You can
also do the job with little ferrite core transformers . . in fact
an antenna company in MO used to offer some antennas to amateur
airplane builders that used small transformers inside a molded
plastic center insulator on their products.
It's not easy to explain. Some excellent info on transmission line
theory and grass-roots practice can be gleaned from American Radio
Relay League's publications on antennas and feedlines for radio
amateurs.
I understand the purpose of the balun is to balance the impedance of the
feedline to that of the antenna.
Correct . . .
Is there another way to feed a VOR antenna?
Sure . . . hook the shield to one whisker and the center conductor
to the other whisker. Putting a balun in the system is a mixed bag.
It adds complexity . . . more solder joints . . . should be checked
with an antenna analyzer to see if everything is cut to proper
length . . . bottom line is that you'll not be able to percieve
any difference in performance by simply judging how well your VOR
receiver works. Other airframe effects such as electrical system noise,
p-static and atmospherics can have worse effects on VOR reciver performance
than the fact that you failed to "properly" terminate your coax cable
by hooking it to a balanced antenna.
There's a popular kit offered where ferrite beads or toroids are
slipped over the coax in immediate vicinity of the feedline attachment
to the antenna. I illlustrate this in my book's chapter on antennas
and feedlines. I've since learned (and seen demonstrated in the
lab) that a few toroids are not enough to make a difference. It takes
several dozen to equal the effects of a properly implemented balun.
VHF is line of sight stuff. If you can "see" the station you can
hear it or talk to it and a wet string would probably suffice for
an antenna. The ol' vacuum tube radios of yesteryear needed EVERY
advantage we could give them . . . modern solid state receiver
technology will work with very marginal signals compared to 40
years ago.
Make it easy on yourself. Hook 'er up, make sure you do a good job
with the connections and protect them from stresses of vibration
and environment and call it quits . . . it'll work just fine.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
Went looking on the internet for a curve of heat transfer vs glycol/water
ratio. Didn't find that, but did find that the state of the art in coolant
has changed a bit in the last 5 years. A short summary which may be useful
to Rotax users follows.
There are two glycols commonly used for coolants: ethylene glycol and
propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol has better heat transfer characteristics
but is poisonous and needs care in disposal. (Lots of info on symptoms
caused by ingestion.) Rotax specifies ethylene glycol as the coolant of
choice.
There are two ethylene glycol based coolant varieties commonly available,
differing in the additives used for corrosion resistance. (Corrosion is a
particular problem with aluminum engines and radiators.) The older version
uses a silicate based corrosion control and is distinguished by the greenish
dye added for identification and leak tracing. The silicates settle out as a
clear gel after 18 months, the shelf life of this product. While ethylene
glycol itself continues to provide boil/freeze protection, the anti-corrosion
and water pump lubrication properties are reduced with time. Addition of an
anti-corrosion/water pump lubricant concentrate can extend the useful life of
the coolant although there is some thought that in this case particulates in
suspension may cause erosion. The ph of the silicate is alkaline and its
anti-corrosive properties decrease as the alkalinity falls over time.
Manufacturers recommend replacement of coolant yearly.
The newer ethylene glycol based coolant has a red (pink) dye added for
identification. This uses a different anti-corrosion formula which is not
silica based. This anti-corrosion additive does not settle out and has a
shelf life of 6 years. One of the major differences is that the ph of the new
additive is much closer to neutral and tends to remain stable for longer than
the earlier silicate type. Manufacturers recommend replacement every 3 years.
In the US the new coolant is called Dex-Cool -- this is what Lockwood
Aviation recommended when I called them to inquire about use of the new (to
me) type coolant. Apparently, General Motors changed to this in 1996,
calling it an extended life coolant.
The recommended glycol/water ratio is 1:1, with the maximum ratio being 2:1.
The boil point rises about 10 degrees with the higher ratio but the heat
transfer rate apparently drops slightly. Tap water should not be used with
glycol since it can change the ph and/or result in erosive particulates.
Distilled water or rainwater (from un-polluted environments at least 100
miles from the ocean) are recommended. In some areas a 1:1 mix is sold
instead of a concentrate, thus avoiding any problem with water quality.
The identification dye is fluorescent to aid in tracing leaks. I tried using
a UV lamp as an aid but didn't find it particularly helpful; the fluorescent
properties were fairly muted.
John A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | h Rally (Scotland) |
If it's not Oshkosh, it just has to be Perth this weekend.
You will have seen the weather at the Open on TV, and it''s still here !
So let's see 100 Europas this time. No registration required.
Graham Clarke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can use
>terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and add
>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
Each three steps in wire gage is about a 2x change in copper
cross section. For example, three 22AWG wires would have about
the same copper as a 17AWG . . . A blue (14-16AWG) butt splice
would be fine for what you propose . . .
The PROBLEM is that the circuit you've described must be protected
for 22AWG wire . . . it's okay to use 14AWG to extend a long circuit
for the purpose of lowering voltage drop but the circuit protection
needs to be sized for the SMALLEST wire in the circuit.
What is your application where the three way split seems necessary?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Armstrong
>
>
>Bob Nuckolls' explanation is (as usual) excellent and correctly points
>out that the KISS method will probably serve you well in this
>installation.
>
>For more detailed info on Baluns, you can find a good article at
>http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/8004019.pdf
>
>Bob RV-9A
>(AE0B, ARRL Technical Coordinator, Colorado Section)
Bob, Thank you for the heads-up on the article. I've
stashed it in my growing file of .pdf "savers".
It was interesting to note the pattern distortion
generated by the "improper" antenna feed . . . I've
seen patterns about as bad on airplanes when the antenna
WAS properly feed and matched . . . all the sticky-out
things on airplanes can do some amazing damage to an
otherwise perfectly good antenna pattern!
Bob . . .
K0DYH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: toohumit makin sern |
> My method has been to moisten the surfaces with MEK to repel oils and
>sand the surfaces by hand (per the manual) to give initial teeth to the
>filling.
Thanks for the interesting info Fergus,
however I don't think wiping with MEK is a good idea. It cannot be
guaranteed that a glass layup has no pinholes, so there is a significant
risk of solvent attacking the foam core. That would be bad news and
difficult to rectify. IMHO a thorough sanding with a soft abrasive sanding
block, those cheap foam ones are OK, will be adequate.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave DeFord" <davedeford(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind prop for motor gliders? |
> I am not convinced that two blades are more efficient than three.
Especially on the > Rotax 912S which has a higher reduction ratio. It
may be more efficient to have two > blades at high speeds but my money
is on three blades in the takeoff and climb phase.
I certainly couldn't comment on the theoretical differences between two
blades and three, but I thought those of you who don't see the US newsletter
might be interested in Bob Berube's reported performance figures for the
company demonstrators. Their monowheel has a 914 with an Airmaster prop,
and shows 1250 feet per minute at gross and 1650 solo. Their tri-gear has a
912S with the Whirlwind prop, and it gets 1100 fpm gross, and 1750 solo.
Pretty similar performance, though the Airmaster benefits from more
horsepower on a slicker airframe. I think the primary lesson is that any
constant speed prop will deliver a large performance improvement over fixed
pitch, regardless of the number of blades.
Dave DeFord, #A135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | as Scherer's Orbit |
Thomas has reached Goose Bay, quite an achievement. I think he's earned our
congratulations. Not something I would fancy doing. He just has to cross
Canada now, endless miles of tundra, as I remember seen from a 747.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one output) |
>> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
>>use terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and
add
>>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>I don't know about the original poster's application, but in my case it's
>panel and instrument lights. I can run all the grounds to the ground block
>but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
>dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
>together?
Here's the compact, low cost alternative to terminal strips . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/minibus.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Dawson" <mtd(at)ilkley.fsbusiness.co.uk> |
Are you commencing or part way through your build ?
I have a purpose built dolly for sale.
This is as the factory use and describe as indispensable.
It is built on a fully galvernised frame with padded support profiles
for a monowheel. It has caravan type screw jacks for height adjustment
and pneumatic tires for use on grass or soft ground. Also a brake is
fitted.You can move your aircraft around with two fingers.
The unit is designed to roll into a trailer, hence the build quality. It
cost 500 to build without time spent.
Offers please. The reason for selling is that I have decided to leave
my Europa rigged and hangered and not to tow as was previously
envisaged. - my aircraft is complete and awaiting test flying.
Michael Dawson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Cheers:
>>>Thomas has reached Goose Bay, quite an achievement. I think he's
earned our congratulations. Not something I would fancy doing. He just
has to cross Canada now, endless miles of tundra, as I remember seen
from a 747.<<< (Graham )
Easy, now. I always spoke very well of the U.K. If thoase miles
were endless, he'd never get here. Firther, if it was tundra you saw,
then admittedly you were suficiently far north that London-Toronto was
more than half the trip in Canada! Which reminds me, I invited him to
stay o'night here enroute OSHKOSH, but the answer was non-comittal. If
somebody knows his itinerary, could we be down his road?
I might even meet him in a NA64 Yale, if I knew when he was
planned by here.......
Any info welcomed.
Happy Landings, Thomas,
Ferg A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LYNJOHN22(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | as' Atlantic Crossing |
Congratulations to Thomas on his Atlantic crossing! It seems like only
yesterday that my wife Lyn and I stopped in Detroit to visit him and all
those Europa pieces scattered about his garage. Now he is flying his dream
and all those assembled pieces around the world. It goes to prove that all
those pieces do eventually come together and get airborne.
John "I finally have a completed rudder" Kilian A046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory, Mike" <M.J.Gregory(at)cranfield.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator warning lamp |
Further to my message of 21 July, I have had the following very helpful
input from John Moran, which I pass on with his permission.
"I have substituted a LED/1N4004/680ohm resistor for the specified bulb and
it
seems to work fine, at least in the short run-time so far. It lights bright
prior to start and shuts off nicely once the engine is running. The EIS
indicates that the system voltage is 13v or so and rising slowly over time
as
the battery charges, which agrees with the LED indication. There is no
indication of a dim output as might be encountered with a leaky drive
circuit. I realize that one installation is anecdotal and not proof that it
will work in other units, so am interested to know if you have experienced
problems which would thus indicate that my approach is marginal. (Wouldn't
it
be nice if ROTAX would share the regulator schematic so we could all make
informed choices?)
"Interestingly, I did have trouble with the warning lamp from the EIS which
also called for a 3w bulb; a 6.8k pullup solved that problem, eliminating
the
dim background under the no-fault condition."
If anyone else has experience of using this or another circuit in place of
the 12v/3W lamp recommended by Rotax for low-voltage warning, please would
they share it on this net.
The sole purpose of the circuit is to provide a safe and reliable
indication: if this can be done in a way that uses less power or is more
compatible with other indicators on your panel, then I shall be happy to
recommend it.
Fly safely
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Thomas Scherer has reached US territory according to his web site
<http://www.thomas.scherer.com> . Next task is obtaining US clearance.
Oshkosh within reach but the weather is not very good. Well done Thomas,
take care friend.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I think you're on to something. Some of the white ty-wraps I've used in the
>past have lasted, and others not. And what is the difference between the
>white and black ones, other than color. Are they made of different stuff?
>Anybody?
The white guys are subject to ultra-violet degredation . . .
they also don't take kindly to hyro-carbon and ozone exposure
both of which are found in fair quantity under the cowl.
Ty-wraps treated for better resistance to environmental
stresses are always colored . . . most of the ones I've seen
are either dark green or black. However, it's possible to make
a ty-wrap from funky plastic of ANY color. When you buy them
new in original manufacturer's packaging, it will state on the
lable whether or not the critter is resistant to UV and/or
chemical attack.
My personal preference under the cowl is MS21919DGxx clamps
and/or Dacron flat-lace (string) . . . I've seen both of these
products work well for decades under the cowl.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | ces/Aerials?Fred Fillinger |
Fred and others,
Here is a message I have been continually getting and yet I have "got
through" in the past. If anyone can enlighten me I would appreciate it.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 02:04:36 +1000 (EST)
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON>
Subject: Returned mail: Cannot send message within 5 days
from slmlb18p37.ozemail.com.au [210.84.133.101]
----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to mailhost.columbus.oh.ameritech.net.:
>>> QUIT
<<< 421 mailhost.col.ameritech.net connection refused from [203.2.192.101]
... while talking to mailhost.indianapolis.in.ameritech.net.:
>>> QUIT
<<< 421 mailhost.ind.ameritech.net connection refused from [203.2.192.101]
... while talking to mailhost.kalamazoo.mi.ameritech.net.:
>>> QUIT
<<< 421 mailhost.kal.ameritech.net connection refused from [203.2.192.101]
... Deferred: Connection reset by
mailhost.kalamazoo.mi.ameritech.net.
Message could not be delivered for 5 days
Message will be deleted from queue
Reporting-MTA: dns; fepa.mail.ozemail.net
Arrival-Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 17:21:16 +1000 (EST)
Final-Recipient: rfc822; fillinger(at)ameritech.net
Action: failed
Remote-MTA: dns; mailhost.kalamazoo.mi.ameritech.net
Diagnostic-Code: smtp;
Last-Attempt-Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 02:04:36 +1000 (EST)
fepa.mail.ozemail.net (8.9.0/8.6.12) with SMTP id RAA02625 for
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 15:34:15 -0400
From: Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Aerials
Fred,
Are you going to place your transponder aerial behind the luggage bay rear
bulkhead? I have heard this is a common location but it places it right
above the pitch tube. Where would you suggest? You are starting to sound
like Bob Knuckolls, which is a good thing :-)
How come you know all about this stuff?? Aren't you a commercial aviator,
or am I confusing you with Ferg in Canada??
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bounces/Aerials?Fred Fillinger |
That's a good place for for it. It need only be 6" or more from any
metal item, such as the big pitch tube. I have the common metal rod
antenna, and probably will just mount it thru a hole in the fuse
bottom, with foil ground plane (drag of a tiny antenna in the
turbulent air back there kind of small, I would think).
Re bounced email from my ISP's mail host (ameritech.net). It's
becoming a clunky service; they may not be properly feeding the gerbil
on the treadmill that powers their servers.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063, N3EU
Tony Renshaw wrote (in part):
> Fred,
> Are you going to place your transponder aerial behind the luggage bay rear
> bulkhead? I have heard this is a common location but it places it right
> above the pitch tube. Where would you suggest? You are starting to sound
> like Bob Knuckolls, which is a good thing :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
Would the subscriber from Sarreguemines please email direct (address book
problems !)
Graham Clarke G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris and Susan Beck <n9zes(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thomas' Orbit |
Hi, Graham and everyone!
Thomas DID reach US territory! As a matter of fact, he arrived in time for
the Europa gathering at Oshkosh on Saturday evening! He arrived sometime
late afternoon and spoke a few words of his trip so far. Absolutely
fascinating!
He was looking a little tired, of course, but in excellent spirits and
commented that on his "earth to the moon and back trip" that he had "just
reached the moon" by arriving at Oshkosh.
The weather was pretty crummy, being mostly overcast and windy all day.
Towards the afternoon it cleared a little. Today is not much better, and
Sue and I are hoping to actually get a flight in the factory plane today for
the first time. Hope the weather holds up!
As an overall comment on Oshkosh this year, I noticed a distinct lack of
homebuilts of all sorts, and there were no Europas as of mid-day yesterday.
It seems ever since they changed the admission rules to allow the general
public access to the flight line, the homebuilders are staying away, which I
can totally understand. The potential for damage to your pride and joy is
enormous with droves of people walking past, running strollers into it,
sitting the little booger-eaters on your flaps, etc. I do hope the old
admission policy returns by the time our Europa is ready for Oshkosh.
The best of wishes go with Thomas for a safe remainder of his trip.
Chris and Sue Beck
A159
Graham Singleton wrote:
> Thomas Scherer has reached US territory according to his web site
> <http://www.thomas.scherer.com> . Next task is obtaining US clearance.
> Oshkosh within reach but the weather is not very good. Well done Thomas,
> take care friend.
>
> Graham
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Hi Bob! May I ask you how you print your wire labels from the computer?
What labels stuff do you print onto? Thanks . . .
I print onto full sheets of Avery label material . . . 8.5 x 11" sheets
in columns. Then stick the full sheet to one of those white plastic
cutting boards. Use an x-acto knife to cut out individual labels
to stick on wire and then cover with heat shrink.
see: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/s817c.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh 2000 |
Chris and Susan Beck wrote:
>
> As an overall comment on Oshkosh this year, I noticed a distinct lack of
> homebuilts of all sorts, and there were no Europas as of mid-day yesterday.
> It seems ever since they changed the admission rules to allow the general
> public access to the flight line, the homebuilders are staying away, which I
> can totally understand.... I do hope the old admission policy returns by the
> time our Europa is ready for Oshkosh.
Welcome to MoneyVenture 2000! I think EAA views the public access
issue as also vital to it's future existence. Traditional "EAA'ers"
are aging, and kits are changing the nature of the movement. My
problem with the showplane area recently has been "ya seen one Lancair
(or RV-x, Kitfox, Glasair, E-Z), ya' seen 'em all." Still a great
show, though.
However, U.S. homebuilt registrations are increasing rapidly, mostly
kits.
So maybe look for growth in the regional EAA fly-ins, fueled by the
need for "type club" mass fly-ins of the kit families.
How many U.S. Europa completions do we need for a viable type club?
Any volunteers for the grunt work involved?
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063, N3EU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire labels . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> I print onto full sheets of Avery label material . . . 8.5 x 11" sheets
> in columns. Then stick the full sheet to one of those white plastic
> cutting boards. Use an x-acto knife to cut out individual labels
> to stick on wire and then cover with heat shrink.
>
A Brother P-Touch device, using the white tape, is easier yet. Also,
shrinking a piece of white tubing over the wire before sticking on the
label (and then clear heat shrink) facilitates the job on thin-gauge
wire. Plus, you can slide it along the wire's length if needed.
Looks professional even.
Regards,
Fred Fillinger, A063, N3EU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Cheers:
...lot of headbanging going on here at Belli Acres. I'm getting ready
to instal the fuel tank, and recall an instruction regarding cutting
inspection/repair holes in the bottom of the aircraft. Been through the
manual twice and haven't found it yet - but don't want to set the fuel
outlet hose clips wrongly and then find I can't reach them easily later
(much later, it seems).
If you can remember the act, could you advise me how to position the
hose clip screws so that they are as readily available through the
fuselage holes if required?
Much obliged,
Ferg #A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris and Susan Beck <n9zes(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | plane questions. |
Hi gang,
Got a few questions regarding the final assembly of our tailplanes.
I've been putting this step off, but it's time to get it out of the way.
1) When checking the drive pins for level, the left side is a degree or
so out with respect to the right side, i.e. the plane of the pins are
not parallel to each other. I don't think this is a concern as long as
the tailplanes are level with respect to each other before drilling the
holes for the bushings, correct????
2) I've noticed a disturbing tendency for the tailplane bushings to gall
the torque tube, even with light lubrication. Is there a trick to
this? I can see this becoming a real problem down the road as we rig
and de-rig the plane repeatedly.
3) I'm not happy with my hinge fitup on the tabs. The gaps are too
large and slightly uneven. I plan to drill the rivets out carefully and
use a hairdryer to soften the epoxy to pop them off. I'll then get some
fresh hinge stock and try again, using the existing holes in the glass.
I followed the manual to the letter, but ended up with 1/8" to 3/16"
gap. Is there a trick? Now that I know what to look for the second
time, I'm sure I'll do better.
Otherwise, it's going great. I'm amazed at how much "stuff" we have to
inventory between the fuse and wing kits. Impressive job of packaging
and labelling, tho. Hat's off to Europa.
We tried to get a Europa demo flight today up at Appleton.
Unfortunately, this was the first flyable day for demos so far, so they
had a good list of flights to do. Add that on top of some BIG delays
trying to get the factory planes out of Oshkosh put it all WAY behind
schedule. We elected to pass and head home and give the folks that do
not yet have the joy of a Europa in their home more opportunity to go up
today and get hooked. We will plan a weekend trip to Lakeland this
winter and go up and fly. One day we'll actually fly in one!
That's about it for now. Thanks for any help on our questions!
Chris
A159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk |
Hi! Ferg.
As you know G-PTAG is a trike MKI but I put my inspection windows obviously
under the connections but everso slightly off centre outboard and forward,
so you can get a 7mm spanner on the jubilee nut. Another problem is being
able to make all the connections for the fuel return pipes , fuel sight
gauge and waterdrain pipes in an area where the rudder cables are passing.
All main line pipes must be dedicated supply ONLY that is all other
connections must go onto the water drain pipes so it gets very "busy" in
those areas. Also make sure that you arrange the anchor nuts for the
inspection windows NOT to be in line with the rudder cables or you will need
to fanny about putting a wood rubbing shield over the nut. I have also put
the drain valves into the windows but the upstand of pipe to them finishes
very close to the airleron ? cross tube and needs a cable clip to hold it
away. Better do the windows prior to putting the cockpit module into the
fuselage. Also note that the rear lift pin cross tube linkrod modification
is very difficult to drill under the tank filler boss. I had to burn mine
with a red-hot weld rod !!!!!!and and extinguisher stood by ?????
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Fergus Kyle
Sent: 30 July 2000 22:09
Subject: Fuel hose clips
Cheers:
...lot of headbanging going on here at Belli Acres. I'm getting ready
to instal the fuel tank, and recall an instruction regarding cutting
inspection/repair holes in the bottom of the aircraft. Been through the
manual twice and haven't found it yet - but don't want to set the fuel
outlet hose clips wrongly and then find I can't reach them easily later
(much later, it seems).
If you can remember the act, could you advise me how to position the
hose clip screws so that they are as readily available through the
fuselage holes if required?
Much obliged,
Ferg #A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailplane questions. |
>1) When checking the drive pins for level, the left side is a degree or
>so out with respect to the right side, i.e. the plane of the pins are
>not parallel to each other. I don't think this is a concern as long as
>the tailplanes are level with respect to each other before drilling the
>holes for the bushings, correct????
That sounds OK. I once saw a Europa fly with the trailing edges of the
tailplanes half an inch out of line. The pilot, a very experienced test and
aerobatic pilot said he could not tell the difference.
>2) I've noticed a disturbing tendency for the tailplane bushings to gall
>the torque tube, even with light lubrication.
The difficulty is getting rid of all the drilling swarf. That's usually
what causes the galling. A dry lubricant might be good, it would help to
avoid dirt sticking to the tubes. Teflon or something perhaps.
>3) I'm not happy with my hinge fitup on the tabs. The gaps are too
>large and slightly uneven. I plan to drill the rivets out carefully and
>use a hairdryer to soften the epoxy to pop them off.
It might be easier to extend the edges with a narrow layer of BID inside
and flox to fill the outer gaps. Tiny bit heavier, there is virtually no
load at the edge.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>Also make sure that you arrange the anchor nuts for the
>inspection windows NOT to be in line with the rudder cables or you will need
>to fanny about putting a wood rubbing shield over the nut.
Also make sure they don't risk rubbing on the bottom of the fuel tank.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | ne actually using a rock mountain engine monitor |
Forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. See end of message for sender.
***************************************
Hi there,
is anyone actually running a Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor?
I'm struggling to get the RPM part to work, anyone know how
they wired it up and what the settings were for a Rotax 912?
I know the theory I'm looking for the someone who is actually flying.
peter
Peter Bondar, Vice President Marketing
Tarantella Inc.
email: pb(at)tarantella.com
web: http://www.tarantella.com
European tel: +44 7901 516259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William S. Stewart" <bill(at)helixsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone actually using a rock mountain engine monitor |
I am currently using the RMI monitor with a Rotax 914. For the most part
it works well, however I have not been totally happy with it.
Although I was told it was totally compatible with the Rotax 914 when I
bought it, I found out differently later. It is not compatible with the
Rotax oil pressure, oil temperature and CHT sensors. Oil pressure can be
used if you substitute their sensor for the Rotax one. However oil
temperature is a lot different, they want you to make a sensor out of
parts, and drill a hole in the engine to put the sensor in. They recommend
a ring thermocouple for CHT (the kind you put under a spark plug), which
seems to work okay, but Rotax does not reccomend it. I ended up with
separate mitchell guages for oil temp, oil pressure and CHT, using the
Rotax sensors. CHT is also monitored by the RMI using thermocouple, which
provides alarming for hi temps. This also provides monitoring of the most
critical engine parameters in case of failure of the RMI.
RPM works fine with the 914 using the RPM leads from the turbo controller,
but I don't know how you would do this with the 912. I suspect that using
the method described in the RMI manual would not work.
I have also not been able to get their fuel flow monitor to work, although
I bought the "two flow" kit to allow for the return flow.
Otherwise it is a fine instrument, with many functions. I have over 60
hours on it so far with no problems.
Bill Stewart, N6LB
----------
> From: John Cliff <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk>
> Subject: Anyone actually using a rock mountain engine
monitor
> Date: Monday, July 31, 2000 7:15 AM
>
> Forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. See end of message for
sender.
> ***************************************
>
> Hi there,
>
> is anyone actually running a Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor?
>
> I'm struggling to get the RPM part to work, anyone know how
> they wired it up and what the settings were for a Rotax 912?
>
> I know the theory I'm looking for the someone who is actually flying.
>
> peter
> Peter Bondar, Vice President Marketing
> Tarantella Inc.
> email: pb(at)tarantella.com
> web: http://www.tarantella.com
> European tel: +44 7901 516259
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone actually using a rock mountain engine |
monitor
Message text written by "William S. Stewart"
>Although I was told it was totally compatible with the Rotax 914 when I
bought it, I found out differently later. It is not compatible with the
Rotax oil pressure, oil temperature and CHT sensors. Oil pressure can be
used if you substitute their sensor for the Rotax one. However oil
temperature is a lot different, they want you to make a sensor out of
parts, and drill a hole in the engine to put the sensor in. They recommend
a ring thermocouple for CHT (the kind you put under a spark plug), which
seems to work okay, but Rotax does not reccomend it. I ended up with
separate mitchell guages for oil temp, oil pressure and CHT, using the
Rotax sensors. CHT is also monitored by the RMI using thermocouple, which
provides alarming for hi temps. This also provides monitoring of the most
critical engine parameters in case of failure of the RMI.<
For oil temperature I drilled out the insides of the Rotax sender from the
top and mounted the new sender inside. If the drilling is done carefully
the spring inside the original sender can be saved to protect the wires of
the new sender as they exit the body of the original. As the inner body of
the original is preserved there should be no risk of leaks or damage.
For CHT it is possible to buy a probe sender from Omega Engineering (as
recommended by RMI) with an adapter for 1/8" NPT thread. The only
difficulty I found was obtaining an adapter from 1/8" NPT to the Rotax
metric size. In the end I got a local engineering shop to make me one up.
Using the original sensing position ensures that the measured temperature
equates to the figures quoted by Rotax. This will be different to the
temperature at the plug as one measures water temperature and the other
head temperature.
>RPM works fine with the 914 using the RPM leads from the turbo
controller,
but I don't know how you would do this with the 912. I suspect that using
the method described in the RMI manual would not work.<
When I contacted RMI about this they passed on to me the following
solutions found by other users:-
- - -"ROTAX 912 Engine:
Vic Syracuse says he had hooked up 3 912s and only changed R3 to 100k. All
worked great. Another cust said this works! Meryl Williams used 1k and set
at position 4!
Dan Billingsly (334) 793-1343 used diode (ECG552, although I think
anything is ok) in connecting to tach output with band towards
monitor. Then he changed R3 to 10k and paralleled CR1 with a 27k.
He used a scope and said this gave best, cleanest and most stable
waveform. Use his as a last resort before using Hall effect sensor."- - -
- - -
I hope to run my engine for the first time in the next few months. I will
report back with my findings.
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | y Mountain Monitor |
To hook up a Monitor tach function to a 912S all you have to do is hook the
two tach leads from the engine to the two tach leads on the Monitor. Don't
use the magneto wiring shown in the installation manual. No capacitors are
required.
My unit came with the oil pressure sender for the rotax and westach makes a
compatible cyl head temp sender that has the required adapter included.
Information on this unit - which is working great for me - can be found at:
www.rkymtn.com
Bob Jacobsen
A131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william mcclellan <wilmac(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | balance arm cable |
I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
Thanks,
Bill McClellan
A164
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Housman" <rob-housman(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Mass balance arm cable |
Having discovered that I too could not get the cables under tension, and not
for lack of trying, I elected to use a small hose clamp wrapped around both
cables and the upper tube of the arm; not elegant, but effective (and low
mass).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of william mcclellan
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 5:08 AM
Subject: Mass balance arm cable
I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
Thanks,
Bill McClellan
A164
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Popenoe" <cpops(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Mass balance arm cable |
Hi Bill-
I set up the mass balance arm as follows:
I use small 1/8" cable clamps, that I believe are called "Kearneys", when
installing Nicopress sleeves. Once these are tightened snug, you can
exert quite a bit of tension on the cable with a pair of ViseGrips,
and by moving the visegrips next to the sleeve(clamped snugly by the
Nico tool), using the visegrips or a screwdriver as a lever. In this way
the whole business may be rigged exactly before swaging a single sleeve.
If you first swage the cables and thimbles on the arm ends, using the
Kearneys to get a nice tight fit against the thimbles, there is enough
room to use the usual swaging tool. After the arm ends are swaged and
trimmed, pass the other cable end thru a Kearney, Nico, two turns around
the pitch tube, back thru the Nico and Kearney to the Visegrip. Pressure
on the Visegrip allows very strong tensioning of the cables, after which
the Kearneys are clamped tight. Continue adjusting the positioning and
the tension by loosening and tightening the Kearneys until satisfied,
then swage the Nicos. The space for the swaging tool is admittedly close,
but it is possible. When mine were finished, the position is right in
the center of the wood support, and the cable tension is such that when
plucked a low "D" tone is produced. No turnbuckles are needed!
Happy building,
Pops
A-036
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
Subject: Mass balance arm cable
I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
Thanks,
Bill McClellan
A164
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mass balance arm cable |
william mcclellan wrote:
> I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
> the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
> heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
> for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
> nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
> and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
> balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill McClellan
> A164
>
We used a pair of clip locking turnbuckles,
with fork ends on one end and cable eye
ends on the other end. The locking clips
make it easy to adjust without having to
safety wire. Use bolts to attach the fork
end, attach cable/thimble to the other.
MS21251-B3S barrel 2ea
MS21252-3RS fork end 2 ea
MS21255-3LS cable eye 2 ea
MS21255-1 locking clip 4 ea
Available from Aircraft Spruce
(page 134 of catalog).
Terry Seaver
A135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mass balance arm cable |
william mcclellan wrote:
> I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
> the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
> heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
> for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
> nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
> and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
> balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill McClellan
> A164
>
Bill,
The P/N for the locking clip in
my e-mail was wrong. It is
MS21256-1, not 21255-1.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tailplane questions. |
Hi Chris:
In building my tailplanes I had found I was also getting a good deal of
scraping or galling that no amount of lubing or sanding of burrs would
alleviate. Upon careful inspection and measurement I had found that the
bushings were out of round by a small amuount. This was confirmed by other
members on the board as their's were out also. It doesn't take much .010 -
.016" to spoil one's party. It took some time and patience with the vice
and a pair of calipers to get things round again.
I wasn't too concerned about having the pins exactly level as tail fins
will fall where ever you get your little bushings positioned in the roots
of the horizontal stabs. I used a digital "smart level to get each sided
within a tenth of a degree of one another. The trick I used was to finish
up one side and get it all cured. I then got it anchored to the table nice
and tight after using several of those little machinest's jacks to crank
it to a datum. The other side is now floating as the holes for the
opposite side little bushings have some small amount of play. These have
the flox taking up the small play and machinest's jacks are used to dial
the opposite side stab to the same datum point as the fist. Checks after
completion could find no discernable difference between both sides.
The gaps you mentioned may not neccessarily need the extra work. I noted
that Kim Prout's super smooth plane has all of the gaps covered with some
sort of plastic fairing tape. Attached to the non-movable flying surface
and just flapped back over the moving section. The gaps aren't even
visible.
> [Original Message]
> From: Chris and Susan Beck <n9zes(at)execpc.com>
> Date: 7/30/00 7:13:08 PM
> Subject: Tailplane questions.
>
> Hi gang,
>
> Got a few questions regarding the final assembly of our tailplanes.
> I've been putting this step off, but it's time to get it out of the way.
>
> 1) When checking the drive pins for level, the left side is a degree or
> so out with respect to the right side, i.e. the plane of the pins are
> not parallel to each other. I don't think this is a concern as long as
> the tailplanes are level with respect to each other before drilling the
> holes for the bushings, correct????
>
> 2) I've noticed a disturbing tendency for the tailplane bushings to gall
> the torque tube, even with light lubrication. Is there a trick to
> this? I can see this becoming a real problem down the road as we rig
> and de-rig the plane repeatedly.
>
> 3) I'm not happy with my hinge fitup on the tabs. The gaps are too
> large and slightly uneven. I plan to drill the rivets out carefully and
> use a hairdryer to soften the epoxy to pop them off. I'll then get some
> fresh hinge stock and try again, using the existing holes in the glass.
> I followed the manual to the letter, but ended up with 1/8" to 3/16"
> gap. Is there a trick? Now that I know what to look for the second
> time, I'm sure I'll do better.
>
> Otherwise, it's going great. I'm amazed at how much "stuff" we have to
> inventory between the fuse and wing kits. Impressive job of packaging
> and labelling, tho. Hat's off to Europa.
>
> We tried to get a Europa demo flight today up at Appleton.
> Unfortunately, this was the first flyable day for demos so far, so they
> had a good list of flights to do. Add that on top of some BIG delays
> trying to get the factory planes out of Oshkosh put it all WAY behind
> schedule. We elected to pass and head home and give the folks that do
> not yet have the joy of a Europa in their home more opportunity to go up
> today and get hooked. We will plan a weekend trip to Lakeland this
> winter and go up and fly. One day we'll actually fly in one!
>
> That's about it for now. Thanks for any help on our questions!
>
> Chris
> A159
>
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <pma(at)obtero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mass balance arm cable |
Hi Bill,
I made a very simple tensioning device out of some aluminum plate with 3
bolts, with the middle one being slightly offset. When I swaged the wires I
made one side a little short and put my tensioner in the other side. You
can see a picture of it at http://pma.obtero.net/may-00.html
Regards, Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: william mcclellan <wilmac(at)gte.net>
Subject: Mass balance arm cable
> I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
> the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
> heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
> for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
> nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
> and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
> balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill McClellan
> A164
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk |
| Subject: | Mass balance arm cable |
Hi! Bill
IMHO get the turnbuckles ! they are brass and quite compact, also recommend
the same for the rudder cables. Take it from me you will be very "pissed
off" to find that the mass balance weights just clonk the holding bolts of
the 'H' weight retaining assembly when you've got the top on !!!! without
the turnbuckles. Make sure you lock wire them though. " Been there ! Got the
tee shirt !!!?
Perhaps you Chaps can advise me how to get round the PFA being so bloody
intransigent on engine mount calcs ???? G-PTAG is still on the ground.
What's all this crap about pilots being able to "Get it Up "?????
Regards
From a Vexed Bob Harrison G-PTAG Destined only to fly outside the UK!!!!!,
Pops
A-036
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
Subject: Mass balance arm cable
I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
Thanks,
Bill McClellan
A164
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ing it on the trailer.... |
Getting it on the trailer ....
In order to get my Europa into its trailer so I could take the wings off for
its 50 hour (and coincidentally) annual check, I remembered just how
seemingly impossible it is without the use of two other people - two to push,
one to keep the wings steady.
I have an original aluminum trailer and the slope of the ramp is very steep
so I cannot believe anyone can do this on their own - but some must I guess
as they do not have the advantage of hangarage. Am I missing a trick?
There must be an optimum slope that one can push up with no problem and this
could be in the form of an add on wooden ramp which one could fit to the
trailer ramp to lessen its slope. Anyone done this? Anyone got any
suggestions?
Oh, and tonight in our efforts, somehow the tailwheel (XS style) squeued and
jumped over the wall of the I beam. Fortunately although it sounded awful it
landed on one of the wing spar mounts where it joins the frame, at the base
of the rudder spar/closeout where the glass is particularly thick inside.
Although causing a dent by crushing the internal foam it shows no sign of
damage internally although I noticed the exterior skin cracked slightly. OK
to leave alone??
Any comments would be appreciated.
Regards
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | ying to Messages on the List |
Dear all,
Just a small nag.
If, when responding to a message on the list, you wish the reply to go back to
the list (rather than just be a private reply to the sender) it is as well to
keep an eye on to where the mail software has addressed it.
For example, using Internet Exploder 5, as I do, if you press the 'Reply' button
it will send a 'private' reply, i.e. only to the original sender. To copy the
List as well, press the 'Reply All' button.
End of nag !
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hedley Brown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting it on the trailer.... |
I have a trailer without a winch, as yet, but wondered of it might not be
easier to fix a long lever to the ramp.You could then engage the wheel on
the ramp, then lever it up and thus roll the beast onto its groove aboard
the trailer. Constructive comments please...H
----- Original Message -----
From: <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Subject: Getting it on the trailer....
> Getting it on the trailer ....
>
> In order to get my Europa into its trailer so I could take the wings off
for
> its 50 hour (and coincidentally) annual check, I remembered just how
> seemingly impossible it is without the use of two other people - two to
push,
> one to keep the wings steady.
>
> I have an original aluminum trailer and the slope of the ramp is very
steep
> so I cannot believe anyone can do this on their own - but some must I
guess
> as they do not have the advantage of hangarage. Am I missing a trick?
>
> There must be an optimum slope that one can push up with no problem and
this
> could be in the form of an add on wooden ramp which one could fit to the
> trailer ramp to lessen its slope. Anyone done this? Anyone got any
> suggestions?
>
> Oh, and tonight in our efforts, somehow the tailwheel (XS style) squeued
and
> jumped over the wall of the I beam. Fortunately although it sounded awful
it
> landed on one of the wing spar mounts where it joins the frame, at the
base
> of the rudder spar/closeout where the glass is particularly thick inside.
> Although causing a dent by crushing the internal foam it shows no sign of
> damage internally although I noticed the exterior skin cracked slightly.
OK
> to leave alone??
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
> Regards
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
> Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi all,
I have a water leak which seems to come from the water pump. Can anyone tell me
what the function of the bolt with the copper ring is at the bottom of the
pump??
This is where it appears to come from.
Has anyone had a similar experience?
Best regards
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone actually using a rock mountain engine monitor |
Forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message was sent by Peter Bondar
*********************************************
Thanks for that,
I think? the rpm controller leads area diffenrt format signal to the
pulse coil transducer that should be used.
Any one with a 912/912s got the rpm to work?
peter
ps I used the body of an existing vdo sender to use
for the oil temp and grafted in their temp sensor into
the body.
My fuel flow does work altbhrough frustratingly it cannot
pass data to teh GPS unlike their Air data computer
peter
Peter Bondar, Vice President Marketing
Tarantella Inc.
email: pb(at)tarantella.com
web: http://www.tarantella.com
European tel: +44 7901 516259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocky Mountain Monitor |
Forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message was sent by Peter Bondar
**********************************************
Do you mean the two tacho pulse leads from the hall sender on the edge of the
flywheel
to the tach input and ground on the rkymtn box?
Assuming r3 at 22k?
It worries me that there seem to be so many potions to solve this one.
Some say 1k some 22k some say 100k
we tried 1k and it didn't work
peter
Peter Bondar, Vice President Marketing
Tarantella Inc.
email: pb(at)tarantella.com
web: http://www.tarantella.com
European tel: +44 7901 516259
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Rocky Mountain Monitor
>
>
> To hook up a Monitor tach function to a 912S all you have to do is hook the
> two tach leads from the engine to the two tach leads on the Monitor. Don't
> use the magneto wiring shown in the installation manual. No capacitors are
> required.
>
> My unit came with the oil pressure sender for the rotax and westach makes a
> compatible cyl head temp sender that has the required adapter included.
>
> Information on this unit - which is working great for me - can be found at:
>
> www.rkymtn.com
>
> Bob Jacobsen
> A131
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Getting it on the trailer.... |
In a message dated 02/08/00 03:32:07 GMT Daylight Time, MJKTuck(at)cs.com writes:
<< I have an original aluminum trailer and the slope of the ramp is very
steep
so I cannot believe anyone can do this on their own - but some must I guess
as they do not have the advantage of hangarage. Am I missing a trick?
>>
A perennial subject !
Go to your local chandler and buy a hand winch, strap type (less that 30 UK
pnds). It bolts onto the channel behind the tail wheel plates.
With the original tailwheel assembly you can safely pull on the stock where
it exits the fuselage (done it 150 times). When the standard tailwheel mod
is done this stock disappears. (I left mine in place, and did the mod
differently).
But you could easily make a detachable fitment to pull on the undercarriage
mount directly. I have a similar gadget to pull the ramp itself up, as it is
sometimes difficult to close it single-handed, depending on tyre pressure and
plane position..
As for getting the flaps to clear the mudguards (without wingtip assistance)
the wheel is not on the ramp at this time, and the plane is well enough
balanced to control it holding the tailplane torque tube; but use plastic
pipes pip-pinned over each side so you don't get covered in grease.
Graham Clarke G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barahona Alonso, Francisco Javier" <javier.barahona(at)aeasa.com> |
| Subject: | Getting it on the trailer.... |
Martin,
I use a standard nylon band with a hulk (I do not know if this is the
exactly English word. I mean a toothed wheel with a handle)available at
any
hardware shop. I put by hand the tailwheel on the channel and pull the
aeroplane till the main wheel is close to the ramp. Then I tie the band
to
the tailwheel and to the trailer handle. After that, I actuate the hulk
to
pull the plane into the ramp.
In order to maintain the wings at level I put some objet (foam) under
the
outriggers.
It works.
Best regards.
Javier Barahona
Classic (#187)
-----Mensaje original-----
Enviado el: mi=E9rcoles 2 de agosto de 2000 4:30
Para: Europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Getting it on the trailer ....
In order to get my Europa into its trailer so I could take the wings
off for
its 50 hour (and coincidentally) annual check, I remembered just how
seemingly impossible it is without the use of two other people - two to
push,
one to keep the wings steady.
I have an original aluminum trailer and the slope of the ramp is very
steep
so I cannot believe anyone can do this on their own - but some must I
guess
as they do not have the advantage of hangarage. Am I missing a trick?
There must be an optimum slope that one can push up with no problem and
this
could be in the form of an add on wooden ramp which one could fit to
the
trailer ramp to lessen its slope. Anyone done this? Anyone got any
suggestions?
Oh, and tonight in our efforts, somehow the tailwheel (XS style)
squeued and
jumped over the wall of the I beam. Fortunately although it sounded
awful
it
landed on one of the wing spar mounts where it joins the frame, at the
base
of the rudder spar/closeout where the glass is particularly thick
inside.
Although causing a dent by crushing the internal foam it shows no sign
of
damage internally although I noticed the exterior skin cracked
slightly. OK
to leave alone??
Any comments would be appreciated.
Regards
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William S. Stewart" <bill(at)helixsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting it on the trailer.... |
I had the same problem getting the airplane up on the trailer. I bought a
cheap boat trailer winch, attached it to a side rail behind where the
tailplane goes, got a rope and pulley. The pulley has a small wire loop
which I can drop over the hitch handle, the rope is tied to the tailwheel
spring, and it winches up very easily.
Bill Stewart, N6LB
----------
> From: MJKTuck(at)cs.com
> Subject: Getting it on the trailer....
> Date: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 10:29 PM
>
> Getting it on the trailer ....
>
> In order to get my Europa into its trailer so I could take the wings off
for
> its 50 hour (and coincidentally) annual check, I remembered just how
> seemingly impossible it is without the use of two other people - two to
push,
> one to keep the wings steady.
>
> I have an original aluminum trailer and the slope of the ramp is very
steep
> so I cannot believe anyone can do this on their own - but some must I
guess
> as they do not have the advantage of hangarage. Am I missing a trick?
>
> There must be an optimum slope that one can push up with no problem and
this
> could be in the form of an add on wooden ramp which one could fit to the
> trailer ramp to lessen its slope. Anyone done this? Anyone got any
> suggestions?
>
> Oh, and tonight in our efforts, somehow the tailwheel (XS style) squeued
and
> jumped over the wall of the I beam. Fortunately although it sounded
awful it
> landed on one of the wing spar mounts where it joins the frame, at the
base
> of the rudder spar/closeout where the glass is particularly thick inside.
> Although causing a dent by crushing the internal foam it shows no sign of
> damage internally although I noticed the exterior skin cracked slightly.
OK
> to leave alone??
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
> Regards
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
> Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | of new goodies . . . |
We've added quite a few new goodies which I won't list here
except for one item . . . we've checked out a dozen or so
sample tools from various sources trying to replace the
discontinued AMP Service Tool II. It did a nice job on
both open-barrel D-sub pins -AND- the white plastic nylon
connectors from AMP and Molex that are popular with the
Whelan et. als. Best part was that it didn't cost an arm
and a leg.
We've selected a tool that does a nice job on the full range
of pins from the 20 AWG D-sub pins up through the .093"
pins used in the larger Molex connectors. Our stocking
order has been placed so we can take orders for the tool now.
Check out this and other additions to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/whatsnew.html
-and-
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
>I would guess anything that will absorb moisture would work. Some diapers
>have exterior linings to prevent moisture from passing through the outer
>layer. That may hinder moisture absorption. The person I know that used
this
>homemade dryer used the cheapest napkins he could find. Get the girl friend
>or neighbor lady to make the purchase for you. Waded paper towel may also
>work. At any rate put the dryer at the end of a hose and not directly at the
>compressor. This will give the moisture a chance to condense in the hose.
Getting the moisture out of compressed air is a pretty rudimentary
science. There are a number of things you can do to "wet" air to
make it give up disolved water molecules. Contact with LOTS of
surface area (like the fiber filters cited) will take out SOME
moisture . . . but once it becomes saturated, it's not going to
take any more out. Same thing with hygroscopic materials like
silica gels, kitty-litter, etc. The hygroscopic traps need to
be periodically regenrated by baking the absorbtion medium
in an oven at 250F + degrees.
Having wrestled with the wet air problems in two facilities
I'll have to suggest that COOLING the compressed air is the
BEST way to get it dry. Our large volume air distribution
system at Electro-Mech took the warm compressed air right out
of the compressor through a fan cooled heat exchanger. The
inner tubes were sloped so that water condensing on inside walls
of the exchanger ran downhill into a trap at the low point.
There was an automatic drain at the bottom of the main storage
tank. This exchanger trap and tank drain removed the vast majority
of air ingested. The next step was to slope all horizontal runs
of distribution piping downward at about 2" per 10' so that
water condensing out on piping was swept toward far end where
there were more traps with drains. Branches off the main distribution
were T-connections pointing UP were a 6" upward stub made a
u-turn with two elbows before dropping to the factory floor.
This prevented water lying on the bottom of the distribution
pipe from being swept into the final distribution drop line.
When the air needs to VERY dry, you cool it as much below room
temperature as possible. I had an ice bath in one lab that
surrounded about 50" of 3/4" copper tubing. Again, down-sloped
tubing feeds a lowpoint trap and drain. The final step was
a hygroscopic filter that would push the moisture content down
to a few milligrams per liter at 100 psi.
For higher volume flows like for spray painting, log runs
of distribution piping at room temperature (air conditioning
in your shop does wonders for drying air in the lines) is pretty
inexpensive and easy to build. You need to use copper line for
this . . . plastic is okay pressure wise but doesn't cool the
contents fast enough to precipitate out the water. You can build
a dryer out of 3/4" copper and zig-zag a run on the wall for
as much length as you care to buy and assemble . . . I'd
suggest 40' as a minimum. Space off the wall and blow ambient
air over it with a fan. Put a low point trap and a good riser
from the trap to your supply line and you'll be surprised how
much water you can drain from the trap every hour.
One builder I met at a fly-in told me about a dryer he made
with an ordinary refrigerator. He build a loosely coiled
copper "still" trap from 100' of soft copper. He installed
it in the cold-box volume of the reefer and put some circulating
fans inside. With the fans running and the box set for max cold,
he was able spray very water sensitive paints in his Houston TX
shop with outside humidities running in the 60s . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Simpson" <Dave_Simpson(at)londonweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mass balance arm cable |
Fit each cable at one end only and swage up.
Fit loose swages and temporary clamp at the other end of each cable.
Disconnect the bottom bolt of the arm support.
Lift the arm 100 mm.
Tighten the cables hand tight and balanced, use temporary clamps to hold.
Test tension by lowering the arm to tighten the cables.
When happy, lift the arm, swage, remove the temporary clamps, bolt back the
lower arm.
Voila
Dave Simpson
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Housman <rob-housman(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: 31 July 2000 20:54
Subject: RE: Mass balance arm cable
>Having discovered that I too could not get the cables under tension, and
not
>for lack of trying, I elected to use a small hose clamp wrapped around both
>cables and the upper tube of the arm; not elegant, but effective (and low
>mass).
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rob Housman
>A070
>
> -----Original Message-----
>On Behalf Of william mcclellan
>Subject: Mass balance arm cable
>
>I would like to know how to best correctly tension the cables that hold
>the Stab mass balance arm centered over the pitch push tube? I have
>heard some use turnbuckles but the ones I have found are pretty bulky
>for this application. Has anyone found a small turnbuckle? My
>nicopress tool has a large head as it can press multiple sleeve sizes
>and it will not fit between the balance arm and the cable when the mass
>balance arm is in place. How have you solved this problem?
>
>Thanks,
>Bill McClellan
>A164
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Mass balance arm cable |
>Perhaps you Chaps can advise me how to get round the PFA being so bloody
>intransigent on engine mount calcs ???? G-PTAG is still on the ground.
>What's all this crap about pilots being able to "Get it Up "?????
They've had their tail twisted once too often. A certain Glassair owner
modified his engine mount without any strength considerations, then had the
mount fail, collapsing the nose gear and trashing the engine and prop.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
Barry,
try some radweld, did the trick for me after 'first filling' with a slight
weep from the bottom of the pump gasket area. Not too sure what equivalent in
german is, probably something like ' wasserschtoppvonpissingovaschue' , in a
similar way exhaust is 'spitzenpopenbangentuben'.
:-)
chus,
dave
g-buxm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | erichdtrombley(at)juno.com |
Can anyone out there tell me what the "I" beam cross member on the
factory trailer is made of?
Thanks,
Erich Trombley
A028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Getting it on the trailer.... |
Per Kim Prout's suggestion some time back, I made a ramp from 2x4's and a
piece of 1/2" plywood. The ramp section is 18" long with a flat section at
the top filled with a couple of 2x4 sections crossways -- the end of the
trailer ramp sets onto this flat in use. The length is such that it matches
the angle of the existing ramp.
Using this extension, it is (just) possible for one Europa pilot sized human
to push the plane up the ramp on level ground. One must push upwards
slightly on the prop to ensure that the tail wheel doesn't pop out of the
track. The ramp also eases un-loading by making it easier to control the
journey down the more moderate slope. Be careful not to pull downwards
during un-loading lest the TW jump the track...
One does need someone at the wing tip (or outrigger blocks as Javier
suggests) to maintain the wings level to avoid contact between flap and
fender and also to avoid tailplane tube/spar holder contact. (This helper
must be cautioned not to try to aid in pushing the plane up the ramp since
this could cause the TW to jump track.)
There seems to be lots of opportunity for exercise in getting the plane on
and off the trailer, perhaps due to bad technique on my part.
For example, the main wheel never seems to be quite aligned initially,
requiring some mad wheelbarrowing back and forth prior to pushing it up the
ramp. This usually involves contact between one's shins and the trailer
which requires days to heal (shins, not trailer).
Then there is the matter of installing the stbd wing pin. With the stbd wing
on the trailer, the stbd wing pin isn't easily accessed to lock the port wing
in position. My solution is to carry a couple of foam blocks, onto which the
stbd wing is deposited (top side down) temporarily prior to installing the
port wing. More exercise and additional danger of damage to the wing in
handling. Anyone have a better way?
And, of course, from time to time I get the wings onto the trailer with the
doors open. More excercise to get the doors closed (here, due to poor
headwork).
Adding a winch is clearly helpful but it still isn't trivial to mate plane
with trailer. The possibility of damage to the paint (or worse) always seems
to lurk in the background.
John A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Mass balance arm cable |
Graham .
I have tried to e-mail you direct but the server is returning them?
Bob H.
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Graham Singleton
Sent: 02 August 2000 15:20
Subject: RE: Mass balance arm cable
>Perhaps you Chaps can advise me how to get round the PFA being so bloody
>intransigent on engine mount calcs ???? G-PTAG is still on the ground.
>What's all this crap about pilots being able to "Get it Up "?????
They've had their tail twisted once too often. A certain Glassair owner
modified his engine mount without any strength considerations, then had the
mount fail, collapsing the nose gear and trashing the engine and prop.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jamesmcdia(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ing it on the trailer |
Dear Martin,
The trailer is far from perfect in its factory supplied form. There are
several modifications which make life easier and less work. You may have done
some of these already so forgive me if I am preaching to the converted:
1 Lower the mudguards on the trailer wheels as far as you can (approx
5cm) - this will avoid the flaps scraping over them when loading/unloading
your pride and joy.
2 Fit a winch to the towbar end - this helps to avoid drama in the last
few inches and stops the plane rolling off when you are struggling to put pip
pins through holes.
3 Fit the two factory supplied plates to the tailwheel groove so that
the cross bolt that the tailwheel rotates around becomes locked in place and
can't spring out when you go over a bump.
4 Develop your own logical order for dismantling the aircraft.
This is how we do it with G-BWRO (using 2 people minimum - never one) again,
forgive me if you have figured all of this out:
1 align A/C to trailer and remove tailwheel speed kit spat (spat
removal takes about 2 minutes - you need to get rudder cables off and take
out cross bolt allowing tailwheel to drop out then put it all back together
again).
2 remove tailplanes (putting them on some nearby soft surface - not the
trailer yet as they get in the way of the winch)
3 one person lifts the tailwheel onto the groove and attaches the winch
to it.
4 first person winches - second holds wings level (by one wingtip)
until flaps are over dreaded mudguards, transponder aerial is clear of
trailer and nosewheel is about to ascend ramp.
5 time to put something under the outriggers temporarily to level the
plane and heave the trailer (not the aircraft) laterally so that the
monowheel is perfectly aligned with the ramp.
6 first person cranks the winch like hell and the second holds the
wings level hanging on to one wingtip.
7 when the plane has gone as far back as it can and the ratchet on the
winch is holding it securely the winchman goes to the front, lies down and
pushes up the ramp with his feet. The wingman then rocks the wings down in
one direction and then the other in order to allow the pip pins to be slotted
in one at a time. Lots of cursing usually occurs here.
8 dust yourself off and put some more props under the outrigger wheels
(toolbox and fuel can in my case) and slide the wings off one at a time. I
put extra padding in the grooves provided for the leading edges on the
trailer to avoid chafing.
9 realise that you have left your car keys/wallet/grrlfriend inside the
aircraft and struggle to open the doors with the wing in its cradle. Also
apply a rudder "lock" to avoid it flapping about in the breeze
10 drama over - go to the pub on the way home and have a self
congratulatory beer
Be careful when stepping over the trailer metalwork - it seems to have
been specially sharpened allowing ones legs to be very easily lacerated. I
also drive like a geriatric with the plane on the back - I try to avoid
trailering it at all as I am convinced that potholes in the road are far
worse for the avionics than any turbulence I have ever encountered. Also -
even if you do become a dab hand at rigging and derigging it is still a
tremendous pain in the backside to do and I would recommend only doing it
when absolutely necessary - i:e for servicing in the comfort of your garage
etc... and being pretty selective about who you choose to help you do it.
Hope this is of use to you,
Cheers
James McDiarmid G-BWRO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilksch Airmotive" <mark(at)wilksch.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting it on the trailer |
My son Sam designed and makes some "lift rods".
Winds the ramp up on turnbuckles which is much more civilised that the
standard heave-ho knees in the mud etc.
If anyone is interested please email Sam at wilksch(at)tesco.net.
He will send a jpeg or two.
Couldn't help ourselves, we just had to become a trailer modifier!
hopefully not too bigger distraction from the engine.
Regards........MARK WILKSCH
-----Original Message-----
From: Jamesmcdia(at)aol.com <Jamesmcdia(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 04:09
Subject: Getting it on the trailer
>Dear Martin,
>
> The trailer is far from perfect in its factory supplied form. There are
>several modifications which make life easier and less work. You may have
done
>some of these already so forgive me if I am preaching to the converted:
>
> 1 Lower the mudguards on the trailer wheels as far as you can (approx
>5cm) - this will avoid the flaps scraping over them when loading/unloading
>your pride and joy.
>
> 2 Fit a winch to the towbar end - this helps to avoid drama in the
last
>few inches and stops the plane rolling off when you are struggling to put
pip
>pins through holes.
>
> 3 Fit the two factory supplied plates to the tailwheel groove so that
>the cross bolt that the tailwheel rotates around becomes locked in place
and
>can't spring out when you go over a bump.
>
> 4 Develop your own logical order for dismantling the aircraft.
___
>___________________________________________________
>
>This is how we do it with G-BWRO (using 2 people minimum - never one)
again,
>forgive me if you have figured all of this out:
>
> 1 align A/C to trailer and remove tailwheel speed kit spat (spat
>removal takes about 2 minutes - you need to get rudder cables off and take
>out cross bolt allowing tailwheel to drop out then put it all back together
>again).
>
> 2 remove tailplanes (putting them on some nearby soft surface - not
the
>trailer yet as they get in the way of the winch)
>
> 3 one person lifts the tailwheel onto the groove and attaches the
winch
>to it.
>
> 4 first person winches - second holds wings level (by one wingtip)
>until flaps are over dreaded mudguards, transponder aerial is clear of
>trailer and nosewheel is about to ascend ramp.
>
> 5 time to put something under the outriggers temporarily to level the
>plane and heave the trailer (not the aircraft) laterally so that the
>monowheel is perfectly aligned with the ramp.
>
> 6 first person cranks the winch like hell and the second holds the
>wings level hanging on to one wingtip.
>
> 7 when the plane has gone as far back as it can and the ratchet on
the
>winch is holding it securely the winchman goes to the front, lies down and
>pushes up the ramp with his feet. The wingman then rocks the wings down in
>one direction and then the other in order to allow the pip pins to be
slotted
>in one at a time. Lots of cursing usually occurs here.
>
> 8 dust yourself off and put some more props under the outrigger
wheels
>(toolbox and fuel can in my case) and slide the wings off one at a time. I
>put extra padding in the grooves provided for the leading edges on the
>trailer to avoid chafing.
>
> 9 realise that you have left your car keys/wallet/grrlfriend inside
the
>aircraft and struggle to open the doors with the wing in its cradle. Also
>apply a rudder "lock" to avoid it flapping about in the breeze
>
> 10 drama over - go to the pub on the way home and have a self
>congratulatory beer
>
> Be careful when stepping over the trailer metalwork - it seems to have
>been specially sharpened allowing ones legs to be very easily lacerated. I
>also drive like a geriatric with the plane on the back - I try to avoid
>trailering it at all as I am convinced that potholes in the road are far
>worse for the avionics than any turbulence I have ever encountered. Also -
>even if you do become a dab hand at rigging and derigging it is still a
>tremendous pain in the backside to do and I would recommend only doing it
>when absolutely necessary - i:e for servicing in the comfort of your garage
>etc... and being pretty selective about who you choose to help you do it.
>
> Hope this is of use to you,
>
> Cheers
>
> James McDiarmid G-BWRO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
There was discussion some time ago about cockpit ventilation being impeded
by the lack of air outlets rather than air inputs. The problem was that
due to there being positive air pressure in through the flap rod apertures
any vents in the rear of the baggage compartment tended to force air in
rather than extract it.
It has occurred to me that if a small hole is drilled in the roof of the
fuselage at the rear of the baggage bay (after including the necessary
reinforcing) air will get extracted due to the negative pressure in this
area. The hole could be covered with a rearward facing close fitting
streamline cowl to prevent water ingress. Has any one done this or is there
any good reason why it is not a good idea?
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
Don't forget that the flap lever slot vents to fresh air. I think that is
where my vented air must go. Certainly the side vents work well and I have
not experienced being too hot in G BYSA yet.
Incidentally, I am finding the XS cooling system with the 912s. more than
adequate as well. Perhaps too adequate in cold weather.
If we ever have a proper summer in the UK I may have to rewrite this.
Bryan Allsop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Cockpit Ventilation |
This is what is fitted to ZK-UBD. With the NACA scoops open we get a howling
gale through the cockpit.
I must say that the cockpit is really snug and warm. We did a test flight at
7am yesterday morning with the ground temp at 3 celcius. Within twenty
minutes of flying around at 3000 feet we had to have the vents open to cool
us down.
Tony
ps ZK-UBD goes like a cut cat with the Airmaster prop fitted. Takeoff run
consists of opening the throttle, blinking twice and then lifting the tail,
it positively leaps off the ground at that point.
snip-----
it has occurred to me that if a small hole is drilled in the roof of the
fuselage at the rear of the baggage bay (after including the necessary
reinforcing) air will get extracted due to the negative pressure in this
area. The hole could be covered with a rearward facing close fitting
streamline cowl to prevent water ingress. Has any one done this or is there
any good reason why it is not a good idea?
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Getting it on the trailer |
In a message dated 03/08/00 16:10:10 GMT Daylight Time, Jamesmcdia(at)aol.com
writes:
<< The trailer is far from perfect in its factory supplied form. There are
several modifications which make life easier and less work. >>
Another is to saw off the fixed main spar guide rectangles and mount them on
a hinged plate which rotates in, and can be pulled out of, the vertical
pillars, as described in Europa Flyer Issue 14, 1997.
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | cockpit ventilation |
Hi! All.
Surely then on the extended luggage bay a reinforced hole could be made in
the shelf or in my case the battery compartment access door? Luggage will
have to be very carefully placed to close up any such holes or not depending
on summer or winter conditions? Without any more exterior holes.
Regards
Bob H.
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of BRYNALL(at)aol.com
Sent: 03 August 2000 22:00
Subject: cockpit ventilation
Don't forget that the flap lever slot vents to fresh air. I think that is
where my vented air must go. Certainly the side vents work well and I have
not experienced being too hot in G BYSA yet.
Incidentally, I am finding the XS cooling system with the 912s. more than
adequate as well. Perhaps too adequate in cold weather.
If we ever have a proper summer in the UK I may have to rewrite this.
Bryan Allsop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <tgynz(at)cts.com> |
| Subject: | head gantry trailer |
Nic here.
I've seen the coolest full box trailer for a Titan Tornado at the field the
other week.
It had an overhead extendable I-beam w/ a roller car on it.
The fellow used it to extract the fuselage with childlike ease.
A most simple up/down winch is on the tip.
A few moments and its on the deck.
After repositioning the fuselage by rolling it around 90 degrees,
he then used the gantry to "be" the other hand on the wingtip for assembly.
Assembled not only one personed, but nearly one handed.
This technique should work w/ the stub spars.
I'm doin' it this way ohyeahbaby!!!
I might have drawings soon.
zzz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <tgynz(at)cts.com> |
Nic here.
A typical scheme for cockpit ventilation is to intake through a compression
port towards the rear and exhaust through a suction port up front and/or
below.
This will clear smoke from the panel away and out.
The dynamics of a reverse NACA scoop on the accelerating boundary on the
nose can be quite strong.
Works best on pointy front end.
Perhaps there might be a killer spot on the cowl.
Any multi-spectral surface pressure and/or boundry-layer speed color plots
to be had?
zzz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jamesmcdia(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Ventilation |
Dear Nigel,
We have a rearward facing NACA vent in the roof of the baggage bay in
G-BWRO - works a treat but lets rain in so I duct tape it over if I'm sitting
out a rain shower.
James McDiarmid
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | cockpit ventilation |
Surely then on the extended luggage bay a reinforced hole could be made in
the shelf or in my case the battery compartment access door? Luggage will
have to be very carefully placed to close up any such holes or not depending
on summer or winter conditions? Without any more exterior holes.
They tried this is australia when ZK-UBD was VH-UBD and the CO levels went
up to the point where it failed the mandatory CO testing required in
Australia. As a result the vent holes into the aft space were blocked and
the new upper, externally vented, hole created.
Tony
ps Ever had a compass fracture in flight and dump the oil over you. I had
that happen to me yesterday - it's smelly horrible stuff!!
I blame it on the climb rate of the aircraft now - the rate of change of
pressure within the compass just blew it apart ;-)
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
RE: cockpit ventilationWhat was the compass brand?
I don't know (I suspect that it is one of those branded as "imported") but
I'll find out for you as it's being pulled out of the aircraft today.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RLaviation(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | SALE:Monowheel XS Kit with Rotaz 914 :FOR SALE |
A Monowheel XS Kit with Rotax 914 is being offered:
Stage 1 completely built (purchased as the quick build option)
Stage 2 (wings) completely assembled with all metal parts powdered coated
(skins left off for your inspection)
Stage 3 (fuselage); cockpit module assembled and installed, capacitance fuel
probe and fuel drain kit has been installed, pitch controls and rudder
controls installed. All metal parts powder coated. Much more
Stage 4 Rotax 914
Europa wiring harness.
SAVE THOUSANDS!
Russell Lepre' and RLAviation's Builder's Assistance has overseen assembly.
Contact RLaviation(at)aol.com or call (813)690-1916 for more information
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Andy, Here is the initial e-mail regarding my CS04s.
My front flight control tufnol block for my flight controls, the one in the
footwell, has an offset centreline of the hole such that about 1/3 of the
way through it wanders. The result is that the metal component slides home
and has a rattling loose fit with about .3-.5mm gap between it and the
tufnol, and that it is obviously not correctly bearing throughout the depth
of the bearing. I worry this tufnol may wear, albeit slowly, such that even
if I take up some of the slack with paint, that in the future it will only
get worse. Would you like it back and will you send another one? I would
prefer to send it to Jim Mc Avoy if you want me to send it to someone.
Seems a bit silly to send it all the way to the UK and have it thrown in a
bin when Jim can easily enough do that over here.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Davis" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
I think I have seen some mention of copper tape antennas on this group. Does
anybody sell a kit of bits or is there someone I can talk to and buy bits
from?
Jerry
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Majordomo file: list 'europa' file 'bounce.4.3.2.7.2.20000802211741.00b8ecf0post.avnet.co.uk' |
Forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message is from Tony Renshaw
*********************************
> From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)hotmail.com> (by way of Graham Singleton
)
> Subject: Re: Tailplane questions.
> Chris and Susan Beck,
> My pins,and in fact several past builders have also commented that their
> pins are not parrallel. It appears that they may not have been jigged
> perfectly to start with, but it doesn't matter. The alignment of the bushes
> in the tailplane can no doubt be out by "heaps" before any loads would
> create a problem.I am only guessing that the distance from either bush to
> either the top or bottom skin would be a couple of inches Min.(I am 3500nm
> away from my tailplanes at this point in time). Don't fret, just align the
> trailing edges together and slide the tailplanes up snug onto the pins. I
> wrote about my technique to establish perfectly orientated holes for these
> bushes that preserve the tailplane orientation in a past Europa Club
> newsletter about 2 years ago,probably copy 17 or so at a guess. Have a
> read. I do however think that if the holes are slightly oversize and not
> quite orientated correctly it will make no difference if the gap is taken
> up with flox. Remember to plug the back of the holes somehow so that you
> can feed in flox and when you push in the bush it will exude completely
> around the bush and mate with all surfaces completely for transferring of
> forces onto the ply insert. Hope this helps and e-mail me directly if you
> need to know more about installing the bushes maximising strength and I
> will check my builders log when I get home.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
> From: Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
> >Subject: Re: Tailplane questions.
> >Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:32:35 +0100
> >
> >>1) When checking the drive pins for level, the left side is a degree or
> >>so out with respect to the right side, i.e. the plane of the pins are
> >>not parallel to each other. I don't think this is a concern as long as
> >>the tailplanes are level with respect to each other before drilling the
> >>holes for the bushings, correct????
> >
> >That sounds OK. I once saw a Europa fly with the trailing edges of the
> >tailplanes half an inch out of line. The pilot, a very experienced test and
> >aerobatic pilot said he could not tell the difference.
> >
> >>2) I've noticed a disturbing tendency for the tailplane bushings to gall
> >>the torque tube, even with light lubrication.
> >
> >The difficulty is getting rid of all the drilling swarf. That's usually
> >what causes the galling. A dry lubricant might be good, it would help to
> >avoid dirt sticking to the tubes. Teflon or something perhaps.
> >
> >>3) I'm not happy with my hinge fitup on the tabs. The gaps are too
> >>large and slightly uneven. I plan to drill the rivets out carefully and
> >>use a hairdryer to soften the epoxy to pop them off.
> >
> >It might be easier to extend the edges with a narrow layer of BID inside
> >and flox to fill the outer gaps. Tiny bit heavier, there is virtually no
> >load at the edge.
> >
> >Graham
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory, Mike" <M.J.Gregory(at)cranfield.ac.uk> |
Surface cracks have been found on 2 Europas, each side of the fuselage,
spreading a short distance upwards from a point directly above the main
spar. There are corresponding cracks on the wing fillet fairings. There is
no immediate cause for alarm, but it would be helpful to know whether there
are other examples in the fleet. This would show if further investigation is
needed, so that proper advice could be given as to any necessary
preventative or remedial action.
If you have experienced such cracks, please would you advise John Tempest of
PFA Engineering
of the following:
1. Registration and approx hours flown.
2. Length of fuselage cracks, measured from top of spar slots.
3. Depth of cracks, if deeper than surface paint/filler.
4. Whether there are corresponding cracks in the wing fillet
fairings.
I emphasise that this is solely for us to understand whether there is a
general symptom, which may be purely the result of the fuselage flexing in
service, without any structural integrity implications. No action other than
reporting is being called for, and I would like to remind anyone building a
Europa that they should not rush into any home-grown modification such as
local reinforcement of the structure: previous experience suggests that, if
any change at all is needed, it will be as a result of a careful structural
analysis to avoid causing problems elsewhere.
Fly safely
Mike
Europa Club Safety Officer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
Hi! Jerry .
Give me a "bell" on 01472 852498 or mobile 07973 832741
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jerry Davis
Sent: 03 August 2000 15:57
Subject: Re: Aerials
I think I have seen some mention of copper tape antennas on this group. Does
anybody sell a kit of bits or is there someone I can talk to and buy bits
from?
Jerry
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory, Mike" <M.J.Gregory(at)cranfield.ac.uk> |
(corrected version)
> Surface cracks have been found on 2 Europas, each side of the fuselage,
> spreading a short distance upwards from a point directly above the main
> wing spars . There are corresponding cracks on the wing fillet fairings.
> There is no immediate cause for alarm, but it would be helpful to know
> whether there are other examples in the fleet. This would show if further
> investigation is needed, so that proper advice could be given as to any
> necessary preventative or remedial action.
>
> If you have experienced such cracks, please would you advise John Tempest
> of PFA Engineering
> of the following:
> 1. Registration and approx hours flown.
> 2. Length of fuselage cracks, measured from top of spar slots.
> 3. Depth of cracks, if deeper than surface paint/filler.
> 4. Whether there are corresponding cracks in the wing fillet
> fairings.
>
> I emphasise that this is solely for us to understand whether there is a
> general symptom, which may be purely the result of the fuselage flexing in
> service, without any structural integrity implications. No action other
> than reporting is being called for, and I would like to remind anyone
> building a Europa that they should not rush into any home-grown
> modification such as local reinforcement of the structure: previous
> experience suggests that, if any change at all is needed, it will be as a
> result of a careful structural analysis to avoid causing problems
> elsewhere.
>
> Fly safely
>
> Mike
> Europa Club Safety Officer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William R. Henderson" <europabill(at)mindspring.com> |
You can find a kit with complete instructions for the copper tape antenna at
http://www.rst-engr.com/ It's $29 US plus shipping.
I also believe Europa has a kit.
Bill Henderson
A010
>Hi! Jerry .
>Give me a "bell" on 01472 852498 or mobile 07973 832741
>Regards
>Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
>-----Original Message-----
>Behalf Of Jerry Davis
>Sent: 03 August 2000 15:57
>To: INTERNET:europa(at)avnet.co
>Subject: Re: Aerials
>
>I think I have seen some mention of copper tape antennas on this group. Does
>anybody sell a kit of bits or is there someone I can talk to and buy bits
>from?
>
>Jerry
>
> lts(at)avnet.co.uk
> http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Ventilation |
Message text written by INTERNET:JohnJMoran(at)aol.com
>I considered your suggested approach and then didn't follow through due to
two possible problems: water ingress and noise. The water problem has been
confirmed since by comments on the net. Perhaps the noise problem doesn't
exist or is not a problem when wearing a headset, but hundred mile per hour
air rushing past a hole 2 feet from one's ears caused me to avoid this
approach. Of course, the intake NACA's make a major noise contribution
too.<
A rearward facing cowl should prevent water ingress (in the air due to
airflow and on the ground due to the downward sloping rear fuselage). Noise
should be proportional to airflow which is controllable via the input
vents. Once in the cruise it should be possible to close these down to a
minimum setting.
Two other thoughts:
>A NACA extractor vent(s) farther back, connected by a skeet tube to a
hole(s)
in the baggage bulkhead. Water probably couldn't make the trip into the
cabin due to the slope involved; a small drain in the bottom of the tube
could let water out into the aft section without damage.<
Sounds good but as my fuselage has been painted I don't want to make
another NACA vent.
>NACA extractor vents under the seats. Although this is a bit higher
pressure
area, they should work and would also provide drains in the event of a
leak
from the fuel filters under the seats. No possibility of water intake.
Noise
should be muted by the cushion, etc. Air flow would be somewhat restricted
by cushions but it should be an improvement over the current situation.
These vents can be added later since any surgery will not be obvious.<
I suspect that the extraction power of the NACA duct will not overcome the
positive pressure in that area. Input NACA ducts do not work on the roof
panel with the negative pressure there.
>One other thought in an allied area. I included 1/4 inch soundproofing
foam
in the footwells under the carpet. This seems to help considerably in
reducing heat transfer through the firewall. Didn't cover the top of the
footwell since it isn't visible -- will probably end up re-thinking that
decision now that I've seen how hot the top surface gets.<
I used 1/4" foam for the whole of the footwells and firewall except the
footwell floors. To provide both heat and noise insulation for the footwell
floor I drilled a pair of holes in the rearward facing step (one at each
end) and injected expanding foam in one hole until it emerged from the
other one.
>Just some musings on the subject. Cabin airflow in the US may be more
problematic than in the UK due to the extreme temperatures often
encountered
when visiting our southwest.
<
I am sure you are right. On the ground and during initial climb in high
summer it can get pretty hot even in the UK.
Many thanks for your inputs.
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by "Jerry Davis"
>I think I have seen some mention of copper tape antennas on this group.
Does
anybody sell a kit of bits or is there someone I can talk to and buy bits
from?
<
Europa Aviation sells a kit.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Leaking Compasses |
Message text written by "Tony Krzyzewski"
>ps Ever had a compass fracture in flight and dump the oil over you. I had
that happen to me yesterday - it's smelly horrible stuff!!
<
I have had it happen in a Jodel when it was my only compass flying VFR in
1500m visibility - not to be recommended!!
As a result I am not intending to use a traditional liquid filled compass
in my Europa. Unless you are in very smooth conditions flying straight and
level they never seem to be very easy to read. They also have a parallax
error unless they are mounted right in front of you. My fit is as follows:
Primary heading instrument - Electric DI manually updated by either compass
below.
Secondary heading instrument - Fluxgate compass as part of the RMI
uEncoder package.
Backup heading instrument - Digital fluxgate compass powered off the
aircraft system with internal battery (2 x AA) backup.
Although all 3 of these use electricity it is extremely unlikely that I
will get a situation where none of them are working.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Ventilation |
| From: | Dale Hetrick <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
Tony,
Where did you position the Naca scoops?
Thanks
Dale
#140
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ing it on the trailer .... |
Getting it on the trailer ....
Thanks to the multitudes who responded to my question. Particularly those who
obviously spent a great deal of time composing their e-mail!
Seems like a combination ramp extension and boat winch will do the trick.
Fortunately I only have to do this a couple of times a year!
Best wishes
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Wickens" <tonywickens(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Getting it on the trailer .... |
Ah - There's the problem Martin - You need more practice.
Sick humour from one still looking forward to having such problems.
Best Wishes
Tony Wickens
XS 353
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of MJKTuck(at)cs.com
Subject: Getting it on the trailer ....
Getting it on the trailer ....
Thanks to the multitudes who responded to my question. Particularly those
who
obviously spent a great deal of time composing their e-mail!
Seems like a combination ramp extension and boat winch will do the trick.
Fortunately I only have to do this a couple of times a year!
Best wishes
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
| Subject: | cockpit ventilation |
A quick question from a Europa wannabe:
With the levers in the tunnel not sealed (?), is there not a risk of engine
compartment air entering the cabin? Is this not a concern? Or is it just an
esthetic odour issue (ie: oil smell)?
Are the cold-weather flyers out there finding their throttle hand not
getting a little cool on those -25C flying days?
Thanks,
Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: cockpit ventilation
Don't forget that the flap lever slot vents to fresh air. I think that is
where my vented air must go. Certainly the side vents work well and I have
not experienced being too hot in G BYSA yet.
Incidentally, I am finding the XS cooling system with the 912s. more than
adequate as well. Perhaps too adequate in cold weather.
If we ever have a proper summer in the UK I may have to rewrite this.
Bryan Allsop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by INTERNET:ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk
>Even though the plane is unlikely to ever experience much over
2G.<
You can exceed 2g by flying in turbulence alone without any added g from
pilot input.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by "David Cripps"
>Just reading your correspondence about compasses. I've heard positive
things about these fluxgate compasses but haven't seen one before. What
sort of display do they have? Are they expensive? Where do they come
from?<
At present the display consists of a digital readout of heading to the
nearest 5 degrees (accurate enough for most of us) and the 8 points of the
compass (ie. N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, NW). Beware some of the cheaper
varieties only display the points of the compass. I bought mine through a
UK mail order company (one of those that sells all the things you never
need) at 50 and road tested it in my car for a year before mounting it in
my Europa. Provided you use the calibration routine whenever you relocate
it (which couldn't be easier) the accuracy is surprisingly good. The
accuracy is reduced significantly if the fluxgate is not upright (ie. in a
turn) but it is not going to be any worse than a conventional compass in
that respect. A/C Spruce sell one at $120 which is rather expensive. I am
sure they are readily available at about the 50 mark if you look around.
>I have a standard ball compass hanging down from the top of the windscreen
but it is hard to read due to offset, and it falls off occasionally when
the
double sided sticky foam holding it in place gets too hot from the sun and
lets go! I'd love to find something better as a primary heading indicator
(I have no DI either). Can you use the fluxgate as a primary indicator to
the satisfaction of the PFA, or do you still have to have the ball type in
case?<
I have not checked with the PFA yet. I suspect that their main concern may
be the reliance on electricity. However as long as there is more than one
compass and there is electrical backup (ie internal batteries) I would
think it should be acceptable. I am hoping that some company will produce a
fluxgate compass with an LCD card display (similar to a DI) with a remote
fluxgate for sensing. In the meantime a fluxgate with a DI seems to be the
best compromise.
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
Nigel.
Yes thanks for that, I was particularly referring to Andy Draper doing the
first flight.! Which I would expect to be done on a calm day?
Bob H
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Nigel Charles
Sent: 06 August 2000 08:55
Subject: g limits
Message text written by INTERNET:ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk
>Even though the plane is unlikely to ever experience much over
2G.<
You can exceed 2g by flying in turbulence alone without any added g from
pilot input.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluxgate compasses |
It's worth looking at Website:
http://www.precisionnav.com/
I have used one of the following from OEM collection:
The Navifinder-200 is a solid state electronic compass with an LCD that
displays digital heading. Its sophisticated magnetic interference
correction algorithms enable the compass to work accurately in a harsh
environment. The Navifinder-200 is the first low cost electronic OEM
compass module with a display. It can easily be mounted in a dash or
enclosed in a housing.
[ Section: 1/1 File: navifinder2.gif UUencoded by: Turnpike Integrated Version
4.02 S ]
sum -r/size 63323/31976 section (from "begin" to "end")
sum -r/size 46266/23183 entire input file
Mine will be probably in my Panel but I have also 'fabricated a 'pod'
for overhead mounting. It allows 30 degree angle in operation.
Like Nigel I'm using the Rocky Mountain Compass Unit through Micro-
Encoder and will stop there...
I may have a Vertical Card Compass for sale (New) with compensation kit
if anyone interested. I'm in the South West of England (Bath)
Kind Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Gerry Holland - IntraNet Solutions Inc.
Tel No. +44 (0) 7808 402404 (Mobile)
Tel No. +44 (0) 1753 701072 (Head Office)
Corporate Web Site : http://www.intranetsolutions.com
This message contains information, which may be privileged and confidential
and subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, you
may not peruse, use, disseminate, distribute or copy this message. If you
have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by
email, facsimile or telephone and return or destroy the original message.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fergus Kyle <fkyle(at)bigwave.ca> |
Nigel Charles wrote:
>
> Message text written by INTERNET:ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk
> >Even though the plane is unlikely to ever experience much over
> 2G.<
>
> You can exceed 2g by flying in turbulence alone without any added g from
> pilot input. > Nigel Charles
Quite agree. 2G is nothing in high or low level turbulence.
Ferg A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering d-sub connectors |
This topic has hit several list-server conversations over the
past week or so . . . here's a new comic book on the technique
I use . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
I'll publish an alternative (an easier) technique using paste
solder . . . as soon as our stocking supply is in hand and available
from our website catalog.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cockpit ventilation |
Dear Pete
I suppose that there must be a risk of engine fumes entering the cockpit
through the flap lever slot, but it does not seem to happen with my Europa.
Certainly I have not been aware of a cold draught screaming around my wrist.
What with the wheel up the well, and the big wheel support bracket
filling most of the bottom opening there is not so much room for the wind to
get up into the well and cause a pressure at the flap slot. It could even
cause a vacuum!
Other correspondents are concerned that they are not getting sufficient
cooling air flow from the side ducts, and they are looking at putting vents
at the rear of the cock pit to help with the air flow. I am saying that it
could be exiting through the slot with my aircraft because I get excellent
air flow and there aint nowhere else for it to go out.
I've never wanted to fly at -25c, so I cant answer that question. I have
tried it at below zero and found that there is a tendency to mist up. You
should try that, IMC on a clear day!
Don't worry about all of these negative thoughts. Just get yourself
Europasised as soon as possible, and join the fun.
best regards.......... Bryan Allsop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | cockpit ventilation |
found that there is a tendency to mist up. You
should try that, IMC on a clear day!
I had this on takeoff last Thursday. Started the roll, got to rotate with a
clear screen, up about three feet and whammo, IMC on takeoff. UBD has no AH
so there was a lot of window rubbing to keep visibility during the climb. I
had no intention of aborting and doing a blind landing in the Europa!!
I am building in a demister into ZK-TSK (which I now consider essential)and
am keeping ZK-UBD's screen clear with a demisting wax.
Tony
We just went over the test logs of last Thursdays flight and worked out that
we climbed a total of 87,000 feet (all occurring between 500' and 3500') in
the course the flight!
Can I have some feedback on highest altitute attained so far with the 912
powered Europa. Tine to start a record log... highest altitude, longest
flight etc??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Hi!
Whilst 'searching' for some additional Europa Information came across
the following Aircraft, but more importantly, engine.
The new Rotax 912 turbocharged engine by ICP: 140 HP at 5500 RPM !
A differenza del motore 912 TURBO montato sul Savannah e sull' AMIGO !
dispone di una turbina MITSUBISHI dell'ultima generazione
che e' in grado di sovralimentare il motore a 60 inchHg ruotando a
190.000 giri al minuto, contro i 160.000 della precedente e con un
sovrariscaldamento dell'aria molto ridotto, cosi' da non essere
necessario il montaggio di un intercooler.
The Website for this Italian Company is:
http://www.icp.it/csr.htm
The Aircraft also has a very interesting Propellor!
I have e-mailed ICP for more information out of pure interest so will
update on this list when reply received.
Engine Picture:
[ Section: 1/1 File: AM_MOT.jpg UUencoded by: Turnpike Integrated Version 4.02
S ]
sum -r/size 15383/19959 section (from "begin" to "end")
sum -r/size 21112/14466 entire input file
Will that improve Cabin ventilation problems!!!
Kindest Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Gerry Holland - IntraNet Solutions Inc.
Tel No. +44 (0) 7808 402404 (Mobile)
Tel No. +44 (0) 1753 701072 (Head Office)
Corporate Web Site : http://www.intranetsolutions.com
This message contains information, which may be privileged and confidential
and subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, you
may not peruse, use, disseminate, distribute or copy this message. If you
have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by
email, facsimile or telephone and return or destroy the original message.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gstout(at)us.ibm.com |
I agree. I have a G-meter in my Europa which will record the highest G
level achieved during a given flight. I routinely find upon landing, that
the needle has recorded 2 Gs during a casual flight..........not even
having done steep turns or any other maneuver that pulls Gs. A full stall
landing, if not greased on, can cause the G meter to record 2 Gs.
Regards,
Garry
N4220S A060
(813) 878-3929
FAX (813) 878-5651, Internet ID Gstout(at)us.ibm.com
---------------------- Forwarded by Garry Stout/Tampa/Contr/AT&T/IJV on
08/07/2000 08:16 AM ---------------------------
Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com>(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk on 08/06/2000
03:54:54 AM
Please respond to Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com>
Sent by: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
cc:
Subject: g limits
Message text written by INTERNET:ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk
>Even though the plane is unlikely to ever experience much over
2G.<
You can exceed 2g by flying in turbulence alone without any added g from
pilot input.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
August, 7. 2000 11:51 UTC
New mail from Jim: Thomas landed Saskatoon (CYXE), short of his goal of
Edmonton, using discretion as
the better part of valor, due to heavy rain ahead. Weather looks good for
Monday & all systems are
working great on the Europa.
Jim Price is Thomas' US friend, guru and tech councillor and an email
friend of mine too. It was Jim who took a Long EZ to 36,000 feet a year or
so ago. Very talented engineer I believe. A real carer too. He's given me a
lot of encouragement since my bump.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
<>
So have I - it's the button on the top of my cap which idents my scalp on an
ouch scale (;-)) Seriously I sometimes wonder if the canopy will crack or
the door spring up.
Graham G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jamesmcdia(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: altitude record |
Dear Tony,
I've been up to 10000 ft a couple of times in G-BWRO (912ul) both in the
UK and USA - performance tends to fall off a bit at around this height in US
summer temperatures - 90 IAS at full throttle!
I'd be interested to know who has gone higher,
James McDiarmid
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: altitude record |
>Dear Tony,
> I've been up to 10000 ft a couple of times in G-BWRO (912ul) both in the
>UK and USA - performance tends to fall off a bit at around this height in US
>summer temperatures - 90 IAS at full throttle!
> James McDiarmid
I think Kim Prout, with Ivan in the left seat went a little higher on the
way to Oshkosh first time. I can't remember the height reached.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gstout(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: altitude record |
Although it wasn't "normally aspirated", I believe Jimmy Thursby took a 914
up to over 20,000 feet on his way back from the Arlington Fly In, in 1999.
Regards,
Garry
N4220S A060
(813) 878-3929
FAX (813) 878-5651, Internet ID Gstout(at)us.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
East of Scotland PFA and National Museums of Scotland (Museum of Flight) host
their joint fly-in and display at East Fortune Airfield - specially opened
for the event from Friday 11th Aug, to midday to Sat.12th. 1800 hrs.
No landing fees, free museum entry, barbecue Fri. eve.
100LL, camping, accommodation on request.
Airfield 11 -29, 700m asphalt unlicensed, N55 59.93 W002 43.38
Circuits to south, overhead join 2000 ft
E.Fortune Radio 118.125
Closed for display 1500 - 1545 Sat.
Tel 0411 378 747 during fly-in
Up-to-date info www.nms.ac.uk/flight
Graham Clarke G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LYNJOHN22(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 6 Retention Tube? |
I remember some comments a while ago ( Nigel, Jim Graham, Steve Hagar, Chris
Beck ? ) about making a fiberglass tube to contain TP5&6 in the tailplanes.
Since I am now in the midst of tailplane construction, could someone please
comment on the success/failure/necessity of this approach?
Also, my perma-grit tools are starting to clog up. Is there a recommended
cleaning method?
Thanks in advance.
John "blue foam everywhere" Kilian A046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
Also, my perma-grit tools are starting to clog up. Is there a recommended
cleaning method?
Gel based paint stipper brushed over the clogged surface, Cover with
newspaper. Leave for a while and peel off.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris and Susan Beck <n9zes(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
Hi, John. I agonized long and hard about this very thing. Ultimately, I built
the tailplanes per the book, taking much care to roughen up the surface of the
bushes and also making very sure that I dug a good flox groove around the bushes
once they were set in with the 5 minute epoxy. Every step of the way I made sure
I was bonding on the actual bushing material, as after setting them in with the
5
minute and digging the foam away with the Permagrit cone on the Dremel, you'll
have 5 minute on the bushing material, which will not hold onto the flox very
well. So far, so good, and I've rowed on them pretty good so far doing the drive
pin bushings with no problems. Time will tell.
Regarding the Perma-grits, I've cleaned mine with laquer thinner. Works OK, but
maybe acetone or MEK would work better. They don't get "new" clean, but better
than they were. Darn tools are the best thing since sliced bread.
On another note, we had the contractor over last weekend to survey our basement
for installation of some Bilco doors, which are the "old fashioned" cellar doors
on the outside of the house. It appears that a fully bonded fuselage will be able
to be extricated through the doorway, based upon a layout I did in AutoCAD using
the supplied dimensions of the doors and a side view of the fuse. Installation
should be around the first week in October, so we've got a little time before we
can start the wings. As I really don't want to try to heat a LARGE two car
garage all winter here in Wisconsin for a few winters, not to mention scraping
ice off cars and trying to use a snowblower around them, the basement entry is
the best option. Should work great.
Chris and Sue
A159
LYNJOHN22(at)aol.com wrote:
> I remember some comments a while ago ( Nigel, Jim Graham, Steve Hagar, Chris
> Beck ? ) about making a fiberglass tube to contain TP5&6 in the tailplanes.
> Since I am now in the midst of tailplane construction, could someone please
> comment on the success/failure/necessity of this approach?
> Also, my perma-grit tools are starting to clog up. Is there a recommended
> cleaning method?
> Thanks in advance.
> John "blue foam everywhere" Kilian A046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
Darn [permagrit] tools are the best thing since sliced bread.
Funny, I find that they play hell with my teeth when I bite on them :-)
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris and Susan Beck <n9zes(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
A little peanut butter makes them quite yummy, perfect for when you get
those hunger pangs in the middle of a big layup. :-)
On the same note, the Permagrit people had a booth at Oshkosh this year
which was quite nice. I chatted with them for a bit and told them about
how wonderful the tools were. They said they have gotten many comments
like that. Most people are put off by the high cost at first, but after
the first few uses, they are sold for good. My fave is the little cutoff
disk. Put that in the Dremel and I can make short work of trimming a
layup. Just have to watch that the Dremel doesn't overheat when cutting
through 4 layers of BID.
Chris
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
> Darn [permagrit] tools are the best thing since sliced bread.
>
> Funny, I find that they play hell with my teeth when I bite on them :-)
>
> Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve & Eileen Genotte <gopack(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
> Darn [permagrit] tools are the best thing since sliced bread.
>
> Funny, I find that they play hell with my teeth when I bite on them :-)
For those of you that are new to the group, this is a perfect example of
what flying a Europa day in and day out will do to/for you.
At least he hasn't stopped building his own Europa.
Steve "Jealous as all Hell" G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
John:
As a comment as to the success or failure of the method of the bushings it
is going to be a very hard call as I am probably years away from actually
having to remove and install the tailplanes for trailering. Though if look
at the actual setup of the tail planes you will see that if the units are
built correctly these bushings and pins are not exposed to any torque. The
torque tube's associated pins do the work. The TP5&6 bushings and pins only
keep the tailplanes from being pulled out. Installing a retention tube
impressed me as being a good deal of work. Adding small amounts of extra
structure here and there over the course of three to four years may tend to
make your aircraft a "led sled". I tend to try to be real meticulous in
what I consider each "little project" and will do it over or spend hours
fixturing something up so every thing is lined up "just right" or exactly
equal to the installation on the "other side". The guys with the planes in
service will have to fess up to the suitabilitiy of the stock installation.
How many instances have there been about having to go back in and rework
this installation?
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: <LYNJOHN22(at)aol.com>
> Date: 8/9/00 4:46:13 PM
> Subject: TP5&6 Retention Tube?
>
> I remember some comments a while ago ( Nigel, Jim Graham, Steve Hagar,
Chris
> Beck ? ) about making a fiberglass tube to contain TP5&6 in the
tailplanes.
> Since I am now in the midst of tailplane construction, could someone
please
> comment on the success/failure/necessity of this approach?
> Also, my perma-grit tools are starting to clog up. Is there a recommended
> cleaning method?
> Thanks in advance.
> John "blue foam everywhere" Kilian A046
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Graham <jlgraham(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
John,
Although I've seen several of the other recent postings on this subject
where the builder did not feel the need to go ahead with this particular
mod, I am one who did, and I still feel good about doing it. And I do
recognize the "just a few grams here, a pound there" warnings, but I
still would do it again, from the pure logic of it. If I felt I would
be doing things like this at every turn it would be different. This one
made sense to me, and added perhaps 140-150 grams. And my main concern
was not torque on the bushings--but getting the bushings fixed in place
with the protective "tunnel" to avoid the inevitable banging of the
internal foam from time to time during rigging.
The bushing tube approach was devised by Nigel Graham (no kin). Nigel
posted it on the board for all last year sometime.
It seems to me that the added "connect" between TP1 and TP2 due to the
tube assembly will be worthwhile. The tubes work like a charm, and the
torque tube slides in straightaway and smoothly, with (1) little chance
of the individual bushings being misaligned or knocked out of kilter,
and (2) practically no chance of damaging the foam that is otherwise
right alongside the torque tube as it is inserted. The entire assembly
seems now to be much more soundly attached than it would have been
otherwise, with not that much weight added.
The tubes went together well, and went in without undue problems
(although it did take a bit of persistent roughing of the inside of the
lightening hole by rotating the tube repeatedly to get the hole sized
exactly right--see below). With regard to the venting, I made the
requisite holes with a hot welding rod through both sides of the
lightening hole, then did the same thing --below the lightening hole--
between the two adjacent holes. The inside of the TP5/6 tube is itself
vented into the TP1 lightening holes which are also cross-vented. So I
think it will be OK.
FYI, I did not feel the need to insert the steel torque tube into the
assembly during the internal rib layup on TP2, as the TP5-6 distance is
fixed nicely already, and although I did drill a 1-3/4" hole in my table
top to accept the short protuding end of the tube, I did not have the
torque tube size etc to contend with. I do suggest you leave a plug in
the end of the TP5-6 tube however to avoid even the chance of getting
epoxy in it as the fiberglass for the rib is lowered over the tube....
My only "difficulty" (and it was not that bad...) was that I probably
did not wrap the fiberglass tightly enough around the prepared/protected
stainless steel torque tube, causing the fiberglass bushing tubes (both
of them) to be just slightly larger than they might have been. That in
turn affected the ease of insertion into the round "lightening" hole in
the foam TP-2. I put a foam plug into each tube's outboard end, then
covered it and held it in place by masking tape. I inserted that end
into the foam hole and twisted radially, slowly at first, back and
forth, using the tube itself as a reaming tool to make the hole
perfectly sized. It resulted in a nice tight fit--I kept reaming until
I had a reasonably easy insertion, since the entire surface of the tube
was to be held in place by flox. Also, that allowed me to mark the
EXACT target location, 8 mm out on one end, 12 mm or so on the other, as
well as a good mark aligned with the hot wire slit above the hole. This
made it easy to replicate exactly where I wanted the tube to end up
during the final insertion and floxing.
When both tubes were in place, and before all began to set up, I
carefully inserted the tailplane torque tube into each of the now-placed
bushing tubes, all in their jigs. I then covered the TP2s with small
sandbags to be sure there would be absolutely no bowing or warping--even
though everything felt very stable without the sandbags. As a result
then I could check and double-check that I had good alignment on
everything--and then I left it alone.
Jim Graham, A101, N4EU
Here are Nigel's original instructions:
Improved TP5 TP6 bush bonding
Here are the details of a mod I carried out to improve the bonding of
TP5 and TP6 into the tailplane core. My original concern was that epoxy
never satisfactorily bonds to metal, particularly stainless steel (TP5
and TP6). This is further exacerbated by the fact that the build
instructions require only half of each bush at best to be bonded to the
rib. I also wanted to guarantee the alignment between the two bushes
without having to rely on a precariously balanced torque tube during the
layup of the rib. It struck me that if either of these bushes broke
away, (as has now happened) the tailplane could flutter in flight, with
disastrous results (this thankfully has not happened yet). My solution
was to encapsulate both TP5 & TP6 bushes into a BID tube, laid up
directly onto the greased TP4 torque tube. When cured, this simply
slides off the tube, and is then bonded into the TP2 foam core, the rest
of the build proceeds as per instructions.
DETAILS
The bushes TP5 and TP6 are inserted into the TP2 foam core to their
correct positions and the distance between the INNER edges measured
(note: since TP5s outer edge is angled, an accurate measurement between
outer edges cannot be guaranteed).
2. PREPARATION
Wrap a few loops of masking tape around the torque tube (TP4), angled
to align with TP5s outer (angled) edge. Grease the torque tube TP4 to
act as release agent and degrease and "rough" the outer surfaces of the
bushes to ensure as good a bond as possible, then slide TP5 onto TP4 to
abut with the masking tape. Accurately cut a strip of newspaper (across
two pages of tabloid) to be exactly the width of the spacing between the
bushes (from 1 above) and carefully wrap it around the TP4 tube,
abutting tightly against the inner edge of TP5 (it will stick to the
grease). Use a spray adhesive (or similar non-bulky adhesive) to secure
the last loop. This is done to provide a clearance between the torque
tube and "BID tube", ensuring loads are taken wholly by the bushes when
the structure is complete. Slide TP6 to abut with the edge of the
newspaper. The grease should hold it place. Add another strip of
newspaper (width not critical, but greater than 100mm) outboard of TP6
and secure. Wrap a couple of tight loops of "Cling Film" (Reynolds
Wrap) over the newspaper and both bushes (this will act as a release
agent). Take any round steel bar and carefully roll it around the edges
of TP5 and TP6. This will cut through the Cling Film, producing a
perfect fit. Discard the excess film covering the bushes. Using light
finger pressure, carefully add a fillet of grease to the edges of both
bushes, being careful not to get grease onto the bonding surface of the
bushes. This is done to ensue that epoxy cannot inadvertently bond the
bushes to the TP4 tube during laminating.
3. LAMINATING
Cut sufficient BID to roll 3 times around the torque tube and bushes,
and wide enough to cover TP5 and extend some 100mm past TP6. This is
done to encapsulate TP6 such that if the metal/glass bond should break,
the bush cannot move out of alignment. The extra length provides a
greater surface area, and hence, load path to/from the tailplane. The
BID is placed onto a sheet of polythene and wet out with resin. Using
the polythene, the BID is transferred to the tube and carefully wrapped
around tightly and the polythene removed. Lastly, a sheet of peel ply
is added to the entire outer surface. When cured, the assembly can be
slid off the torque tube the paper and cling film removed with tweezers,
and the ends trimmed to size. I weighed the finished assembly and found
it to be just 48 grams heavier than the weight of just the bushes.
3. ASSEMBLY
Remove the peel ply. The "bush tube" is assembled into the TP2 foam
core using flox, applied to the entire outer surface of the tube.
(note: if flox is applied to the inner surface of the foam core, it will
all be expelled as the tube is inserted). Allow to cure. From this
point on, the build proceeds as per instructions.
ADVANTAGES
1. When the ribs are laminated onto the "bush tube", an infinitely
better bond is achieved, since there is over double the bond area to
each bush, and the bond is glass/glass, and not glass/stainless steel.
2. When the TP1 core is assembled onto TP2, the extended "BID tube"
provides a spigot onto which TP1 accurately locates. All the builder
need do is rotate the latter to the correct alignment.
3. Rodent proof. If the aircraft is stored on farm land I considered
there would be a risk of mice nesting in the convenient torque tube
hole. (I have subsequently heard that one owner has experienced this
very thing).
CAUTION
Extra thought must be given to providing adequate internal venting since
the tube now fills the cavity in the tail plane core.
This procedure may appear long-winded when written down, in practice it
is straight-forward and took me only one evening per side to produce.
This mod increases the structural integrity out of all proportion to the
little additional weight.
--credit to Nigel Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi all!
I dont know if anyone else has had this problem but I have finaly found the
source of a persistent and water loss that I could not find.
The seal behind the water pump impeller is leaking.
It is so complicated and such a big job to get at that I have to take the engine
out and send it to the Rotax agent.
This leaking seal allows water to drip out of a little hole under the rear if
the engine in front of the pump. It drips onto the exhaust and dissapears!
Best regards
Barry Tennant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Ventilation |
Message text written by Tony Renshaw
>Cockpit air extraction<
Hi Tony
Sealing the flap drive apertures is possible. Klaus Dietrich has done it -
I am not sure how much it improved his ventilation extraction. It requires
some inventive design to keep the seal and not impede the flap drive
movement. I get the impression that there are differences in ventilation
performance with individual Europas. Perhaps a case of try it out as it is
and retrofit extra outlets as required retrospectively?
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
After taxing around for a while my Rotax 912S has been "spitting" some
coolant out of the overflow bottle. It also makes a gurguling sound.
It seems that coolant runs back into the bottle through the hose in the
bottom and pushing some coolant out through the tiny vent hole in the cap.
It sends out enough coolant thats its visible on the side of the airplane.
All temps are fine, the engine runs great, there are no other coolant leaks.
Any Ideas?
Thanks
Bob Jacobsen
A131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William S. Stewart" <bill(at)helixsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spitting Coolant |
Sounds like you have overfilled your coolant bottle. Should only be about
half full when cool.
Bill Stewart, N6LB
----------
> From: Bob Jacobsen <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com>
> Subject: Spitting Coolant
> Date: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:45 AM
>
>
>
> After taxing around for a while my Rotax 912S has been "spitting" some
> coolant out of the overflow bottle. It also makes a gurguling sound.
>
> It seems that coolant runs back into the bottle through the hose in the
> bottom and pushing some coolant out through the tiny vent hole in the
cap.
> It sends out enough coolant thats its visible on the side of the
airplane.
> All temps are fine, the engine runs great, there are no other coolant
leaks.
>
> Any Ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Jacobsen
> A131
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
Basement? What's a basement? Just joking, but we don't have basements in
SoCal, so we build in the garage and leave the cars on the street where the
worst problem is morning dew. I lived long enough (too long) in northern NY
where I've seen -45 deg F and summer is usually the week of July 4, so I do
understand your situation.
My serious inquiry is: Will you share your AutoCAD file of the A/C exterior?
If so, please e-mail the *.dwg (any version) as an attachment.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Chris and Susan Beck
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:15 PM
Cc: europa(at)avnet.co.uk
Subject: Re: TP5&6 Retention Tube?
Hi, John. I agonized long and hard about this very thing. Ultimately, I
built
the tailplanes per the book, taking much care to roughen up the surface of
the
bushes and also making very sure that I dug a good flox groove around the
bushes
once they were set in with the 5 minute epoxy. Every step of the way I made
sure
I was bonding on the actual bushing material, as after setting them in with
the 5
minute and digging the foam away with the Permagrit cone on the Dremel,
you'll
have 5 minute on the bushing material, which will not hold onto the flox
very
well. So far, so good, and I've rowed on them pretty good so far doing the
drive
pin bushings with no problems. Time will tell.
Regarding the Perma-grits, I've cleaned mine with laquer thinner. Works OK,
but
maybe acetone or MEK would work better. They don't get "new" clean, but
better
than they were. Darn tools are the best thing since sliced bread.
On another note, we had the contractor over last weekend to survey our
basement
for installation of some Bilco doors, which are the "old fashioned" cellar
doors
on the outside of the house. It appears that a fully bonded fuselage will be
able
to be extricated through the doorway, based upon a layout I did in AutoCAD
using
the supplied dimensions of the doors and a side view of the fuse.
Installation
should be around the first week in October, so we've got a little time
before we
can start the wings. As I really don't want to try to heat a LARGE two car
garage all winter here in Wisconsin for a few winters, not to mention
scraping
ice off cars and trying to use a snowblower around them, the basement entry
is
the best option. Should work great.
Chris and Sue
A159
LYNJOHN22(at)aol.com wrote:
> I remember some comments a while ago ( Nigel, Jim Graham, Steve Hagar,
Chris
> Beck ? ) about making a fiberglass tube to contain TP5&6 in the
tailplanes.
> Since I am now in the midst of tailplane construction, could someone
please
> comment on the success/failure/necessity of this approach?
> Also, my perma-grit tools are starting to clog up. Is there a recommended
> cleaning method?
> Thanks in advance.
> John "blue foam everywhere" Kilian A046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: altitude record |
Hello all,
I just had an email from Thomas who is very pleased with his Europa now.
The engine was looked at by Rotax Germany and they said it was OK but
elected to change the reduction gears which were noisy and showed some
pitting. It seems to have improved a lot and is now smooth and seems to
give better power output.
Graham
>The Europa has proven a great cross-continent airplane
>! I haven't refilled the oil since taking off in Bonn,
>Germany ! and that is 70 hrs of flying since. I
>usually get 100 kn ASI from 4200 rpm and a fuel flow
>of 9.4 litres per hour. You might want to put this out
>to the Europa newsgroup. So aerodynamic cleanup does
>work well - and the 912 really burns little at those
>low rpm.
>Thomas, (socked in at Dawson Creek, BC.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Spitting Coolant |
Forwarded from the bounce bin by John Cliff. Message is from Peter Bondar
***********************************************************
its boiling over,
either
a) you aren't cooling the engine enough, need more airflow/bifgger radiator
b) the glycol/water mix is too low with a depressed boiling point
c) you have a (partial) impeller pump failure (saw this on a 912 Avid)
d) you have a VP prop set on too fine or coarse pitch not driving enough air
through
some installations seem to do it habitually and just don't idle too much
some are VERY ambient temp sensisitive, on mine anytime
the ambient is over 20c it becomes an issue, under 20 no problem
also for taxying for test purposes
being uncowled is usally a lot better than cowled
peter
Peter Bondar, Vice President Marketing
Tarantella Inc.
email: pb(at)tarantella.com
web: http://www.tarantella.com
> After taxing around for a while my Rotax 912S has been "spitting" some
> coolant out of the overflow bottle. It also makes a gurguling sound.
>
> It seems that coolant runs back into the bottle through the hose in the
> bottom and pushing some coolant out through the tiny vent hole in the cap.
> It sends out enough coolant thats its visible on the side of the airplane.
> All temps are fine, the engine runs great, there are no other coolant leaks.
>
> Any Ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Jacobsen
> A131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grahamclk(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: TP5&6 Retention and spar guiding |
A simple lightweight method is to braze a flange on each, to lie in the plane
of the plywood, the flange then being pinned through. I did the TP5's this
way when they came loose. The buried TP6's would of course need to be done
at build time.
Shortening the tubes too considerably reduces galling and a taper plug in the
end of the torque tube guides it in without clonking.
While on guiding, main spar guides have been fitted by many at the bottom of
the entry apertures to assist wing spar entry and prevent downhill motion
onto the quick release mechanism. However they do not guarantee entry of the
end into the cups 3 ft away. I suggest adding the following.
For the port wing, a removable tapered wooden plug (around 2"x2"x7") with a
flange pushed into the starboard entry aperture will guide it in
effortlessly.
For the starboard wing a permanent tapered guide reduxed to the aft wall
positioned inboard of the port spar cup.
Graham G-EMIN
Graham G-EMIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
I cracked up.... a 200mph aeroplane you can build in 5 months full
time...... must be a different Europa! Still, nice to see it getting a
bit of national exposure even if the reporter was glib in the extreme.
Pity they didn't include a bit of Pete Clarke footage.
M
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
> the Permagrit people had a booth at Oshkosh this year
>which was quite nice. My fave is the little cutoff
>disk. Put that in the Dremel and I can make short work of trimming a
>layup.
>Chris
Next time you talk to the Permgrit folks ask them to stock up with the
diamond edged cut off wheels dentists use. They're even better, but even
harder to find. I got my last one from my dentist.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
> The TP5&6 bushings and pins only
>keep the tailplanes from being pulled out. The guys with the planes in
>service will have to fess up to the suitabilitiy of the stock installation.
>How many instances have there been about having to go back in and rework
>this installation?
>Steve Hagar
All true. However the trouble starts when rigging or derigging. Usually
derigging because the tubes sometimes rust up in situ , then it's a heck of
a pull getting the tailplanes off. Then one of the bushes chooses to move a
little so the pin won't go in next time.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip.lincoln(at)essnet.se |
| Subject: | TP5&6 Retention Tube? |
I just did this fibreglass tube work last week and I'm happy with the result.
I had one (unintentional) "trial run" as my first attempt decided that it really
like being wrapped around the torque tube and would not let go. It had to be
hacksawed into segments before I was able to get it off - at least I had some
pieces of the tube to test to destruction (strong!). The centre part of this
first attempt had also been a bit uneven which meant some parts were wider than
TP5/6. The 2nd & 3rd times around I made sure the tube was flat between, and
no wider than TP5 & 6. After roughing up & cleaning TP5&6 I then (lightly) put
masking tape along the outer edges over the to-be-bonded surface to protect
them from the grease that (as I found out from the "trial run") has to be everywhere
- this allows one to be less timid with the greasing process. This tape
is then removed as the last stage before epoxying starts. Also as the whole tube
is now about 2mm in diameter wider than the original TP5&6 I improvised a
"drill" made out of a long part of the round foam core!
from the torque tube "lightning hole" with 40 grit sand paper wrapped (taped)
around it. This was then successively & SLOWLY bored through the hole each time
testing for a "firm, snug, but not forced" fit of the retention tube. If the
hole was still too narrow then I would increase my "drill bit" diameter a fraction
each time with a bit of cardboard pushed under the sandpaper. The real trick
here is to keep the new widened hole centred on the original hole, i.e. make
sure you increase the radius equally (by about 1 mm) in ALL directions. I
used a series of marks and measurements to make sure I'd done just this. When
one comes to the outboard rib layouts (which I did Tuesday & Wednesday nights)
the torque is quietly standing in a corner out of harms way.
It was good to be able to look through the tube and see the surfaces of TP5 & TP6
completely encased in epoxy, with no bubbles, my hacksawed grooves completely
filled in, and knowing (from my destruction test) that if they were aligned
today they would be aligned tomorrow.
Philip (Tri-gear #426)
PS:
While trying to get the first (errr, "trial") attempt off the torque tube I suspended
the entire assembly from the roof, gripped the stubbon retention tube and
then tried to use my entire body weight (68 kg) to pull it off. The result?
The tube did not budge, the rope (I'd fed through the torque tube holes) broke
after about 3 attempts, causing me to fall about 10cm to the floor and punch
myself in the jaw (causing a nice bruise and cut) as my tensed up arm muscles
suddenly had nothing pulling them the other way! I can only assume that it's
par for the course and that most people end up punching themselves in the face
a couple of times while building their Europas!
-----Original Message-----
Subject: TP5&6 Retention Tube?
I remember some comments a while ago ( Nigel, Jim Graham, Steve Hagar, Chris Beck
? ) about making a fiberglass tube to contain TP5&6 in the tailplanes. Since
I am now in the midst of tailplane construction, could someone please comment
on the success/failure/necessity of this approach?
Also, my perma-grit tools are starting to clog up. Is there a recommended cleaning
method?
Thanks in advance.
John "blue foam everywhere" Kilian A046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)intercept.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airshow BBC2 |
Has anybody REALLY flown a Europa at 200 mph? (serious question ....
honest :)
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Airshow BBC2
> I cracked up.... a 200mph aeroplane you can build in 5 months full
> time...... must be a different Europa! Still, nice to see it getting a
> bit of national exposure even if the reporter was glib in the extreme.
> Pity they didn't include a bit of Pete Clarke footage.
>
> M
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I had the 'fox outside today working on the flaperons
>and a car stopped in the driveway, (nothing unusual so far).
>A lady got out and had ID around her neck for The Indianapolis
>Star, the local newspaper. (this is where the unusual part comes in).
>She said she had seen the plane in the garage last tuesday and
>that they want to do a story on it! I told her ok. She is going
>to contact me about setting up an appointment. I thought I would
>explain about the EAA and this list being a great help to me.
>What do you guys think? Has anyone on the list been through this before?
I quit speaking to mediatypes about 10 years ago after this
crowning touch on mis-representing "the news:"
Dee and I were out flying one cool and smooth day at lunchtime
at the little airport we used to own. While landing, I noticed
a large, obviously non-amateur camera set up on a tripod out in
the grass and panning my landing. Needless to say I was more than
extra mindful of doing a good job. By the time we taxied around
to the hangar, reporter and cameraguy were hoofing it across the
field to talk to us.
Seems newspaper headlines for that morning spoke of "Six near
misses" in Wichita over the past year. What they wanted from me
was, "my reaction" to this frigntening revelation and, "what do you
think the FAA should do about it?"
How do you explain a very complex set of facts involving
pilot responsability, limitations of government owned
facilities and personel, and limits imposed by the laws
of physics and the current state of the art in anti-collision
technology. . . . and squeeze it into a 1 minute or less?
What appeared on the 6:00 o'clock news was, "local pilot
sez FAA's equipment broke and airline passengers are doomed."
What they used from my interview was two sound bytes
pulled out of context that appeared to support the
premise of their "news blurp".
Since that time, I've declined to speak to anyone from the
so called "news" media. When asked, I tell them, "because
you never get it right."
Obviously, an in-depth feature story is different than trying
to explain physics of the universe to to a wild-eyed,
sensationalist reporter. BUT . . . there are still risks.
I'd recommend that you agree to support the piece. Heaven
knows that we can use all the positive publicity we can
get. Try to extract a promise from the reporter that you
are allowed to proof the FINAL article before it goes to
print. The pitfalls are that while your project may be the
leading particular of the article, someone ELSE may decide
to provide background about a couple of accidents involving
amateur built aircraft. While the intent may be well-meaning,
the result could be that your wife gets piles of condolance
letters suggesting that she keep your life insurance paid up,
"your gonna need it lady." Amateur built aviation doesn't need
that kind of exposure. The only way to avoid this is to
get personally involved in the whole production effort for
the piece. Left to their own devices, media reporters and
writers are dismal purveyors of fact. Give the reporter
a couple of issues of Sport Aviation to read.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | tip triangle close out . . nav light installation. |
The manual isn't too specific about the installation of the preformed
closeout apparatus thing in the wing tip. My assumption is that it is just
floxed in place after forming and shaping it to conform to the recess at
the trailing edge of the tip. Is there any bid layup to be put in here
other than to close out any gaps that come about?
I am also in the thinking stages of wing tip surgury to install the
Aeroflash strobe-nav light assembly. My thoughts on this installation are
to make up a backing plate of a thin foam/fiberglass laminate or maybe
plywood/fiberglass to back up the unit and then transfer drill the 3 holes
from the light base to the laminate, install nutplates here Then
fiberglass this backer inside the wing tip with 3 plies of bid. A clear
shot from here to a properly secured and situated conduit tube to allow for
wiring installation and repair.
Any comments on these two issues are much appreciated.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
I went to my pantry today to check on my stash of ZK 420A&B "formerley
known as Redux". It was right there just where I left it last year
behind the Campbells soup cans. The expiration date was still within
limits, for the glue that is, the soup gets thrown out when the cans start
bulging.
What is disturbing however is that I find that I can't find any thing
pertaining to the handling, use, mixing, or curing of this stuff any where
in my copious information files as I have everything pretty much well
cataloged.
It would serve well to get some of this info. I would appreciate it greatly
if another kind builder with this info could get me back on track by
forwarding this to me over the net or by faxing it to me at work 480
722-4822.
Please keep this hush-hush as I don't want any US government jackbooted
MSDS Nazis busting down my door in the middle of night to spirit my Redux
away because of lack of proper documentation.
Thanks gang
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa AZ
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
Paul McAllister had a hard time finding his Redux information also, until
some one pointed out that it was in back of the manual. He was kind enough
to point it out to me. My crummy looking copy is there also. So I'll now
have to get back to work.
For all of those new builders out there who are stashing their Redux away
not to be seen again for months (years?)
ALL THE PERTINENT INFO IN IN THE BACK OF THE BUILDERS MANUAL FOR THE REDUX
Thanks gang
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Graham <jlgraham(at)erols.com> |
Steve,
Check Annex B of the Manual--all the info on Araldite 420 A/B there, at least
in my version.
Jim Graham
A101
Steve Hagar wrote:
> I went to my pantry today to check on my stash of ZK 420A&B "formerley
> known as Redux". It was right there just where I left it last year
> behind the Campbells soup cans. The expiration date was still within
> limits, for the glue that is, the soup gets thrown out when the cans start
> bulging.
>
> What is disturbing however is that I find that I can't find any thing
> pertaining to the handling, use, mixing, or curing of this stuff any where
> in my copious information files as I have everything pretty much well
> cataloged.
>
> It would serve well to get some of this info. I would appreciate it greatly
> if another kind builder with this info could get me back on track by
> forwarding this to me over the net or by faxing it to me at work 480
> 722-4822.
>
> Please keep this hush-hush as I don't want any US government jackbooted
> MSDS Nazis busting down my door in the middle of night to spirit my Redux
> away because of lack of proper documentation.
>
> Thanks gang
> Steve Hagar
> A143
> Mesa AZ
>
>
> --- Steve Hagar
> --- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
Hi! Steve
It's my 61st birthday celebrations and I'm well oiled !!! but nevertheless
can't do to see anyone in the she 1 t ! Redux mixes 10 parts
Yellow Gue to 4 parts Blue liquid . Use liberal amounts of flox to prevent
running..
Sticks most things such as broken reading glasses but not the part you look
through !!!!
Cures fully in about 12 hours , but releases with heat from a hair dryer
!!!
In my case likely to double as an engine mount to satisfy the PFA "!!!!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Steve Hagar
Sent: 12 August 2000 21:01
Subject: ZK 420A-B?
I went to my pantry today to check on my stash of ZK 420A&B "formerley
known as Redux". It was right there just where I left it last year
behind the Campbells soup cans. The expiration date was still within
limits, for the glue that is, the soup gets thrown out when the cans start
bulging.
What is disturbing however is that I find that I can't find any thing
pertaining to the handling, use, mixing, or curing of this stuff any where
in my copious information files as I have everything pretty much well
cataloged.
It would serve well to get some of this info. I would appreciate it greatly
if another kind builder with this info could get me back on track by
forwarding this to me over the net or by faxing it to me at work 480
722-4822.
Please keep this hush-hush as I don't want any US government jackbooted
MSDS Nazis busting down my door in the middle of night to spirit my Redux
away because of lack of proper documentation.
Thanks gang
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa AZ
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <plawless(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Airshow BBC2 |
Presumably if you can build it in 750 hours, you can fly it at 200 mph!
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: Nigel Graham <nigel_graham(at)intercept.com>
Date: 11 August 2000 14:29
Subject: Re: Airshow BBC2
>Has anybody REALLY flown a Europa at 200 mph? (serious question ....
>honest :)
>
>Nigel
>----- Original Message -----
From: Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk>
>Subject: Airshow BBC2
>
>
>> I cracked up.... a 200mph aeroplane you can build in 5 months full
>> time...... must be a different Europa! Still, nice to see it getting a
>> bit of national exposure even if the reporter was glib in the extreme.
>> Pity they didn't include a bit of Pete Clarke footage.
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <rick(at)cragwood.demon.co.uk> |
Hi, I've finally started work on my Europa (#462) and have been trawling
around other builders web sites for hints and tips. I only have four such
sites bookmarked, but I am sure that there are others about and I would like
to ask if anyone has a comprehensive list of them. Further to that, would
any of you with web sites be interested in joining a Europa Web Ring - I
would be more than happy to set that up if enough people are interested.
Regards
Rick Sivier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Petherbridge" <alan_petherbridge(at)email.mobil.com> |
Can anyone update me as to the situation regards the nose wheel on the Tri gear?
I've been told that tri gears are grounded or is that just a nasty rumour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | pa Trigear Landing Gear track. |
Hi!
2 questions:
1) Is there a special or designed trailer for Trigear.
2) What is the outside'track' dimensions for Trigear main Gear and the
measure forward to nosewheel position.
What the mind wanders to on a wet Sunday afternoon!!! in UK Must be
getting really old!
Kind Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Gerry Holland - IntraNet Solutions Inc.
Tel No. +44 (0) 7808 402404 (Mobile)
Tel No. +44 (0) 1753 701072 (Head Office)
Corporate Web Site : http://www.intranetsolutions.com
This message contains information, which may be privileged and confidential
and subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, you
may not peruse, use, disseminate, distribute or copy this message. If you
have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by
email, facsimile or telephone and return or destroy the original message.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william mcclellan <wilmac(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip triangle close out . . nav light installation. |
Steve,
The manual, Fig. 6, Page 8-4 shows it fitted with the concave side faced
inboard. Several builders have put the concave side outboard. Structurally I
don't think it maters. I put it concave side outboard and I will put tape in
the aileron closeout to seal against the wing tip as I have seen on several
planes. Redux with flox will bond better than epoxy/flox. No BID lay-up
necessary.
I still have to put my strobe/nav lights on but will do it as Kim Prout did.
Your method sounds fine. You might ask Kim how he did his.
Bill McClellan
A164
Steve Hagar wrote:
> The manual isn't too specific about the installation of the preformed
> closeout apparatus thing in the wing tip. My assumption is that it is just
> floxed in place after forming and shaping it to conform to the recess at
> the trailing edge of the tip. Is there any bid layup to be put in here
> other than to close out any gaps that come about?
>
> I am also in the thinking stages of wing tip surgury to install the
> Aeroflash strobe-nav light assembly. My thoughts on this installation are
> to make up a backing plate of a thin foam/fiberglass laminate or maybe
> plywood/fiberglass to back up the unit and then transfer drill the 3 holes
> from the light base to the laminate, install nutplates here Then
> fiberglass this backer inside the wing tip with 3 plies of bid. A clear
> shot from here to a properly secured and situated conduit tube to allow for
> wiring installation and repair.
>
> Any comments on these two issues are much appreciated.
>
> Steve Hagar
> A143
> Mesa, AZ
>
> --- Steve Hagar
> --- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory, Mike" <M.J.Gregory(at)cranfield.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Tri Gear Europa's |
Dear Alan
I understand that a Tri gear suffered a failure of the weld attaching the
nosewheel fitting to the base of the leg. This occurred after only a short
period in service, and PFA Engineering were writing to all Tri gear owners
on UK Permits with a recommendation that they should not fly until the
factory had examined the problem and determined whether any action was
necessary.
I have been away for the past week, and have not had the opportunity to find
out what progress has been made. Please note that, if the PFA intend the
aircraft to be grounded, then they would issue instructions accordingly.
Unless such instructions are received, then it is only a recommendation not
fly.
I would always counsel people to follow any recommendation from the PFA.
However, if you have compelling reasons to continue flying a Tri gear before
the factory advice is available, I would recommend a very careful inspection
of the nosewheel welds before each and every flight. I would also suggest
the avoidance of rough surfaces, and that you do not practise touch and
goes.
I expect that Andy Draper at the factory will very soon have worked out the
answer, if he has not already done so.
Fly safely
Mike
Europa Club Safety Officer
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Petherbridge
Subject: Tri Gear Europa's
Can anyone update me as to the situation regards the nose wheel on the
Tri gear?
I've been told that tri gears are grounded or is that just a nasty
rumour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Waters <robw(at)iprolink.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Tri Gear Europa's |
Alan,
I don't believe that all Tri-gears have been grounded. Europa have issued an
instruction to Tri-gear owners to check the specific weld that failed, and not
to
operate the aircraft if any cracks are present. A Service Bulletin is being prepared
which will detail any follow-up action required.
Rob Waters
Tri-gear 437
Alan Petherbridge wrote:
> Can anyone update me as to the situation regards the nose wheel on the Tri gear?
> I've been told that tri gears are grounded or is that just a nasty rumour
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Full time..... 72 hours per day.
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
Subject: Airshow BBC2
I cracked up.... a 200mph aeroplane you can build in 5 months full
time...... must be a different Europa! Still, nice to see it getting a
bit of national exposure even if the reporter was glib in the extreme.
Pity they didn't include a bit of Pete Clarke footage.
M
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve & Eileen Genotte <gopack(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airshow BBC2 |
9 days per week.
5 weeks per month
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
> Full time..... 72 hours per day.
>
> Tony
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk
> Subject: Airshow BBC2
>
> I cracked up.... a 200mph aeroplane you can build in 5 months full
> time...... must be a different Europa! Still, nice to see it getting a
> bit of national exposure even if the reporter was glib in the extreme.
> Pity they didn't include a bit of Pete Clarke footage.
>
> M
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Quite probably. During my flight training in Kim's aircraft, 'Mad Dog' and I
reached 169 knots IAS at 6000+ feet (194mph) so the TAS would have been over
200mph.
It feels like flying a jet at that speed - smoooooooth as!
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Higgins" <ghiggins(at)norex.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Airshow BBC2 |
If you can build it in 750 hrs you don't need an aeroplane at all to be able
to fly - Just check out the large "S" on your vest & cape
Graham Higgins
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Lawless <plawless(at)avnet.co.uk>
;
Subject: Re: Airshow BBC2
> Presumably if you can build it in 750 hours, you can fly it at 200 mph!
>
> Pete
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nigel Graham <nigel_graham(at)intercept.com>
>
> Date: 11 August 2000 14:29
> Subject: Re: Airshow BBC2
>
>
> >Has anybody REALLY flown a Europa at 200 mph? (serious question ....
> >honest :)
> >
> >Nigel
> >----- Original Message -----
> From: Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk>
> >Subject: Airshow BBC2
> >
> >
> >> I cracked up.... a 200mph aeroplane you can build in 5 months full
> >> time...... must be a different Europa! Still, nice to see it getting a
> >> bit of national exposure even if the reporter was glib in the extreme.
> >> Pity they didn't include a bit of Pete Clarke footage.
> >>
> >> M
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MELVYNBS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airshow BBC2 |
72 hours a day...the amount of time Tony spends on the computer!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom & Cathy Friedland <tfriedland(at)home.com> |
What are the characteristics of Kims aircraft. Was that at 6,000ft while
descending from 7,000ft?
Tom Friedland
Tony Krzyzewski wrote:
> Quite probably. During my flight training in Kim's aircraft, 'Mad Dog' and I
> reached 169 knots IAS at 6000+ feet (194mph) so the TAS would have been over
> 200mph.
>
> It feels like flying a jet at that speed - smoooooooth as!
>
> Tony
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
What are the characteristics of Kims aircraft. Was that at 6,000ft while
descending from 7,000ft?
I knew someone would ask that! Yes, it was in a descent - but it doesn't
take very long or a steep dive to get there.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
It's all lies - I also run a business, fly airplanes, built airplanes and am
currently decorating a house. In the other 24 hours of the day I relax.
Tony
72 hours a day...the amount of time Tony spends on the computer!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
| Subject: | t in-depth report.... |
Hi folks,
I hope that Kim doesn't object, but here is a link I received from him to
that great CAFE report on his fine plane. (thanks Kim!) I didn't see it
posted to this mail-list (or did I miss it?).
Great report of the Classic. I must say that after being privileged to be
able to have a demo flight at Osh just passed, I read the report with a new
appreciation of this plane's terrific flight qualities. Those Katana's that
I rent will never be as fun again now that I have experienced what a really
well harmonized plane flies like (Diamond Aircraft should be truly
embarrassed - I hope their DA40 is better).
http://www.sonic.net/cafeweb/services.htm
Now, who will part with their XS for a few weeks so the folks at CAFE can
get some numbers for the new wing, and shorten their already short squawk
list? ;-)
Cheers,
Pete
"Push to test."
"Release to detonate."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
ssssshhhhhhh! My wife may hear before I get that cheque written. ;-)
-Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Airshow BBC2
July 03, 2000 - August 13, 2000
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-bk