Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ct
October 27, 2002 - November 12, 2002
to prove that I am building an aeroplane.
In addition I have ordered direct from Aircraft Spruce higher value but
light items eg Circuit Breakers and they have been most efficient (4 day
delivery) and not expensive (dollar for pound).
If you've not been to Florida it is certainly worth a visit to Sun'n'Fun
just for the sheer enjoyment of the sun, Europa comrades and stocking up on
those items that are hard to get in the UK. Starts 2nd April 2003 for 1
week.
Steve Pitt #403
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
> I know this is a big subject but any opinions on where is the best place
to
> buy instruments & avionics in the UK?
>
> I understand that they are much cheaper in the US. Anyone taken the
trouble
> to import or is the price advantage then negated with taxes etc? The
> alternative I suppose is to take a budget trip across the pond and bring
> some back but I guess this would be smuggling.
>
> AArgh Jim Lad!!
>
> Richard Iddon (Tri Gear G-RIXS)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop pitch, manifold pressure, engine revs - what combination's best? |
Hi! Hedley.
Did I remember that you have the 3300 Jabiru? Since you don't mention what
engine I'll with hold any reply .
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Prop pitch, manifold pressure, engine revs -
what combination's best?
Er .... the title says my question.h.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by INTERNET:riddon(at)btinternet.com
>I know this is a big subject but any opinions on where is the best place
to
buy instruments & avionics in the UK? <
I bought my instruments about 3 years ago so this info might be a little
dated. In terms of knowledge and customer backup RD Aviation (now AFE)
provided the best service. When the club was running seminars they gave
very helpful talks on how to design and build your own panel. If this was
all too daunting they would provide a build and fitting service. Brien
Nelson (who works with RD, tel 01865 377106) has built and fitted many
Europa panels and has a wealth of envaluable experience.The only other
avionics company to attend these seminars was only interested in using it
to sell there products. If low prices and prompt mail order was required I
would recommend Harry Mendelssohn.
>I understand that they are much cheaper in the US. <
Generally this is correct but I found it cheaper to buy my Garmin
transponder and Skyforce Colourmap in the UK.
> Anyone taken the trouble to import or is the price advantage then negated
with taxes etc? The
alternative I suppose is to take a budget trip across the pond and bring
some back but I guess this would be smuggling.<
If you intend importing from the USA you can limit the duty to just the VAT
by getting an Enduser certificate from your local Customs and Excise
Office. This saves about 4%. This can be used whether you get the items
mailed or collect them yourself. There is a lot to be said in timing a
visit to the USA to tie in with either Sun 'n' Fun or Oshkosh. That way you
can buy everything at once with no postage costs. To avoid disappointment
it may be worth reserving products from retailers for collection in
advance. Remember that European users will require the European versions of
items like GPS's to ensure the correct database is installed.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
About two years ago I met a Danish Europa owner at the PFA rally who had
incorporated a NACA scoop in the top of the engine cowling to introduce cold
air to the carb area (ie: top cowling area). This was not the standard
Europa plenum chamber arrangement but a cable operated vent that could be
opened/ closed at will. There was (as far as we could ascertain) no ducting
under the cowlings or any direct airwat to the carb intakes.
I thought this was worth trying but the PFA are not too keen on the idea as
no one in the UK has tried it before. They are worried that introducing cold
air into the intake area could lead to carb icing which could not be cleared
by simply closing the duct. They believe it would be prudent to fit carb
heaters in order to clear any ice that might form.
I was a little surprised at their conclusions especially as I was under the
impression thet the standard Europa plenum box arrangement which takes cold
air from outside does not include the fitment of carb heaters. I would have
thought that if the factory approved mod dosent cause icing then the
arrangement which I was considering would be similarly ice free.
The only difference as far as I can see is that with the factory design
there is no choice between cold and warm air whereas with a cable operated
duct there is.
At the end of the day I am happy to go along with the PFA's requirement to
fit carb heaters but would be interested to hear if anyone else has tried a
similar arrangement.
If anyone else has adopted such an arrangement I would be interested to know
whether carb icing was a problem.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
PS: My permit to test arrived just in time for the gale force winds !!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Butler" <rich_butler2(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Convinced to Build! I'm selling a tail section... |
Dear Ray,
Have I got a deal for you! I am in desparate need of selling an un-started
tail section, Stage One, kit # 169. Aside from the factory-completed "fast
build" work completed, I haven't done any additional work. The kit still
available, and is in climate-controlled storage in Northern Illinois. I'm
eager to sell, as this is not the proper time in my life to have additional
expenses. At the time that I purchased it, I paid $5000, but would accept
any reasonable offer.
I bought it as the "Fast Build Kit" also called the Accelerated Kit. That
was an upgrade, thrown in as an incentive to purchase at year-end.
As I purchased after attending their workshop at Lakeland, Florida (which I
highly recommend), they also included the optional speed kit upgrade. They
allowed me to decide which version I want, Tri-gear or Monowheel, and to
have it delivered at a future date. Since I haven't gotten that far, I
didn't have that delivered yet.
Here's how the Europa web site described what I purchased:
"Stage 1 (the tail kit - consisting of the tailplane, tabs, rudder,
flaps/spoilers, ailerons and hardware)."
"A pre-skinned stage 1 (including tailplanes, tabs, rudder, ailerons and
flaps) which will save the average first time builder around 200 hours."
"The Accelerated Kit technical specification:
Ailerons: Flaps or Airbrakes: Rudder: Tail Plane: Both skins glassed.
Hinges, mass balance horns and end close-out ribs to install. Both skins
glassed with center rib installed. Hinge arms and end close-out ribs to be
installed. Both skins glassed including bottom close-out. Hinges and
rudder horn to be installed. Both skins, outboard rib and all close-outs
glassed. Tabs removed and close-outs glassed. Internal and drive bushings
installed. Pip-pin holes jig drilled. Hinges and tab drive pin to be
attached."
Europa's web site discribed the speed kit as follows:
"Europa Optional Extras US $
Europa XS Tri-gear speed kit (wheel spats, flap hinge fairing) 725.00
Europa XS Monowheel speed kit (tailwheel spat, flap hinge fairing) 455.00"
Since their kit cost structure has been modified since my purchase, the
Lakeland office offered me credit for what I paid toward the balance of the
kit, when I am prepared to get stages 2 & 3.
Please feel free to ask any other questions that you may have.
Regards,
Rich
623-939-3299
rich_butler2(at)hotmail.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray M. Knapp" <rmkhomes(at)charter.net>
Subject: Convinced to Build!
> To All Europa Devotees:
> I recently became aware of the Europa through a friend who I
> discovered had built one. I have been researching (thanks to this fine
> Forum) and have become very impressed with the professionalism and
> helpful nature of so many participants. And thanks to several who so
> quickly replied to my query re: a searchable database of postings.
> Having decided to go ahead and build, and having discovered that
> occasionally, for numerous reasons, a builder has a change in plans and
> must sell either an un- or partially completed kit, I thought it could
> be mutually beneficial to ask of the Forum if any such projects are
> available for sale, preferably in the Western United States.
> Thanks to everyone, Ray
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
> Subject: Re: Web Site links
>
>
> Ray,
>
> There is such a beast (courtesy of Andrew Sarangan), as well as a list
> of FAQs that are very helpful to builders. Links to both are on the Club
> web site at www.europaclub.org.uk - follow the link to the Forum page.
>
> The Club also has an excellent booklet gathering together the best hints
> and tips, compiled by Dave Watts, with entries coming from the Forum,
> the factory newsletter, and the Club magazine "Europa Flyer". As a new
> builder 6 months ago, I found it very useful indeed - it flagged some
> difficulties I wouldn't have known to look for a solution for until too
> late!
>
> One of the most time-consuming problems I had initially was finding
> suppliers for all the little extras - acetone, mask and filters, Tyvek
> paper overalls, paper roll, syringes, etc. I'm putting my UK list of
> these up on the Club site ASAP, and hope those in other countries will
> respond to my call and help out with their lists.
>
> The two real pains to date have been acetone - in the UK most suppliers
> won't sell to individuals because they perceive a liability risk - and
> empty mastic/caulking tubes for the big Redux jobs. I spent 3 hours the
> other day just sourcing the tubes (and they had a minimum order size of
> GBP20, so if anyone in the Oxfordshire area needs some, get in touch!).
>
> Regards,
> Jeremy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Re: Web Site links
>
>
> Jeremy:
> On the note of reducing the "has anyone done ..." questions, I'm
> a soon-to-be new builder and really enjoy the obvious utility of this
> forum. But I'm hoping there is a searchable database of previous
> questions that I can interrogate in the attempt to minimize the dumb
> questions I'm likely to ask. Any suggestions?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
> Subject: Web Site links
>
>
> I'm currently working on the links sections of the Europa Club web site,
> and just wanted to put out another appeal for useful links. In
> particular, I'd really appreciate any the following:
>
> 1) Regulatory bodies (the CAAs, EAAs, FAAs, and JAAs of this world)
> 2) Good suppliers (if possible, please include a couple of sentences
> about why you think they should be on the site - I'd like to include
> these recommendations with the links)
> 3) Mods - I've had no details of any individual (i.e. not Factory or
> Club) mods yet, and I'm sure we all remember what it was like when we
> started building and had no idea of what were good mods to include, and
> why. Please help your fellow Europa builders by putting forward details
> of your mods as examples to follow. We might even manage to reduce the
> number of 'has anyone done....' emails on the Forum!
> 4) Airfields - know any Europa-friendly airfields?
>
> I know I said this is a links section, but actually I am including some
> useful suppliers that don't have web sites, but which I have been lucky
> enough to discover (for example, I found an organisation that does
> acetone at a very competitive price and delivers to my door for free -
> although they don't have a web site, it's worth other UK-based Europa
> builders knowing about them). So if you know some good suppliers, even
> if it's just a local one-man-band who does upholstery, or
> aviation-standard welding, please let me have details, wherever you are
> in the world.
>
> I'm particularly keen to get some non-UK links - being UK-based, most of
> the suppliers and airfields I know about are in this country, and I need
> help making this site as useful as possible to our non-UK builders and
> fliers. So please, whether you are in the Americas, the Antipodes, or
> 'on the Continent', get in touch!
>
> Thanks for all your help.
>
> Kind regards,
> Jeremy
>
> Europa Club Webmaster
> Europa XS monowheel 537M G-EZZA
>
> Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
>
>
> Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
>
> Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
This has been debated on the Forum fairly recently, so the previous
postings may provide an answer (there was certainly a previous posting that
described a UK Classic that had airbox, no carb. heat and was PFA
"approved").
Nigel Charles (?) also mentioned carb. temperatures he had measured.
I would argue that the close proximity of the rear cylinder exhaust header
pipes (on the Classic, not the XS) provide a considerable amount of
radiated heat to the body of the carb. This could be enhanced by a bit of
black paint!
However, if the above is true, then there might also be a tendency to
boiling the fuel in the float bowls, which doesn't seem to be something
that happens.
Yesterday was a nice day for flying (in the UK). Even (much later in the
day) for a first flight.
Duncan McF.
On Sunday, October 27, 2002 3:05 PM, Carl Pattinson
[SMTP:carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk] wrote:
> About two years ago I met a Danish Europa owner at the PFA rally who had
> incorporated a NACA scoop in the top of the engine cowling to introduce
cold
> air to the carb area (ie: top cowling area). This was not the standard
> Europa plenum chamber arrangement but a cable operated vent that could be
> opened/ closed at will. There was (as far as we could ascertain) no
ducting
> under the cowlings or any direct airwat to the carb intakes.
>
> I thought this was worth trying but the PFA are not too keen on the idea
as
> no one in the UK has tried it before. They are worried that introducing
cold
> air into the intake area could lead to carb icing which could not be
cleared
> by simply closing the duct. They believe it would be prudent to fit carb
> heaters in order to clear any ice that might form.
>
> I was a little surprised at their conclusions especially as I was under
the
> impression thet the standard Europa plenum box arrangement which takes
cold
> air from outside does not include the fitment of carb heaters. I would
have
> thought that if the factory approved mod dosent cause icing then the
> arrangement which I was considering would be similarly ice free.
>
> The only difference as far as I can see is that with the factory design
> there is no choice between cold and warm air whereas with a cable
operated
> duct there is.
>
> At the end of the day I am happy to go along with the PFA's requirement
to
> fit carb heaters but would be interested to hear if anyone else has tried
a
> similar arrangement.
>
> If anyone else has adopted such an arrangement I would be interested to
know
> whether carb icing was a problem.
>
> Carl Pattinson
> G-LABS
>
> PS: My permit to test arrived just in time for the gale force winds !!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Davis" <pm.davis(at)ntlworld.com> |
Brien Nelson 'did' my panel and installation and made a very good job of it.
However, he is no longer at RD Aviation. In fact none of the original people
are there - Dickie, Alan, Brien etc are all gone and it is now merely a
small outpost of the larger AFE organisation.
Last time I contacted Brien he was working at Hinton-in-the-Hedges airfield,
doing all the same stuff and I have two 'phone numbers for him which I hope
he doesn't mind me passing around. His mobile is (was) 07711523821 and work
number (with similar qualification) is (01865) 523821.
Suffering from memory problems as I do, I think that having the same number
for all my telephones would be a wonderful idea!
Bit drafty for flying in southern England today (Sun 27th.)
Peter Davis #154 and well tied down!
Please note change of e-address :-
peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Instruments
Message text written by INTERNET:riddon(at)btinternet.com
>I know this is a big subject but any opinions on where is the best place
to
buy instruments & avionics in the UK? <
I bought my instruments about 3 years ago so this info might be a little
dated. In terms of knowledge and customer backup RD Aviation (now AFE)
provided the best service. When the club was running seminars they gave
very helpful talks on how to design and build your own panel. If this was
all too daunting they would provide a build and fitting service. Brien
Nelson (who works with RD, tel 01865 377106) has built and fitted many
Europa panels and has a wealth of envaluable experience.The only other
avionics company to attend these seminars was only interested in using it
to sell there products. If low prices and prompt mail order was required I
would recommend Harry Mendelssohn.
>I understand that they are much cheaper in the US. <
Generally this is correct but I found it cheaper to buy my Garmin
transponder and Skyforce Colourmap in the UK.
> Anyone taken the trouble to import or is the price advantage then negated
with taxes etc? The
alternative I suppose is to take a budget trip across the pond and bring
some back but I guess this would be smuggling.<
If you intend importing from the USA you can limit the duty to just the VAT
by getting an Enduser certificate from your local Customs and Excise
Office. This saves about 4%. This can be used whether you get the items
mailed or collect them yourself. There is a lot to be said in timing a
visit to the USA to tie in with either Sun 'n' Fun or Oshkosh. That way you
can buy everything at once with no postage costs. To avoid disappointment
it may be worth reserving products from retailers for collection in
advance. Remember that European users will require the European versions of
items like GPS's to ensure the correct database is installed.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hedleybrown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop pitch, manifold pressure, engine revs - what combination's best? |
Ah! a reply! The machine is an XS with 192S engine and an arplast prop, with
inlet manifold pressure via an efis from jerry davis of Lyndhurst
Touchdown.Thanks for your interest....H
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Prop pitch, manifold pressure, engine revs -
what combination's best?
> Hi! Hedley.
> Did I remember that you have the 3300 Jabiru? Since you don't mention
what
> engine I'll with hold any reply .
> Regards
> Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Prop pitch, manifold pressure, engine revs -
> what combination's best?
>
>
> Er .... the title says my question.h.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
Folks,
I'm hoping to take my panel out of the Europa in the next couple of days and am
quite confident with disconnecting the electrics and air systems however I'm
not sure about disconnecting the throttle, carb hear and mixture controls, (Subaru)
which are mounted on the panel. Which end will I disconnect them at or do
they unscrew at the panel end. Any advice appreciated.
Regards
Kev T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Convinced to Build! I'm selling a tail |
>"A pre-skinned stage 1 (including tailplanes, tabs, rudder, ailerons and
>flaps) which will save the average first time builder around 200 hours
Wow - I'm not only not getting enough time at the project, I'm not
working at the factory-prescribed rate! I have 370 hours clocked now,
and have done the above skinning on a non-fastbuild tail kit, LESS
the ailerons and one set of flap hinges. What am I doing wrong - or
is anyone else going as slow as me?
PS can y'all manage without the sponsor's message repeated 5 times at
the bottom of this message? Think of the archive space you're
consuming and trim off superfluous quotes, please.
regards
Rowland
| PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
| Europa builder #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Removal |
Kevin,
the best way to find out is to check with the guy you bought it off - he has
probably had the panel out before, or spoke to the builder about it.
They can be installed in various ways: There may be sub-panels holding throttle
bits and c/b's, mag switches, which have been designed to stay in the aircraft
when the panel is removed.
before you undo the cables at the engine end, it would be worth checking to see
that they are 'tinned' - if not, get your soldering gun and wick a bit of solder
into the ends to stop them unravelling; also mark the cable positions where
the grub screws are.
Most important, when pulling the thing out of the aircraft, put something like
a towel over the panel edges to protect the perspex...
chus,
dave
> I'm hoping to take my panel out of the Europa in the next couple of days and
am quite confident with disconnecting the electrics and air systems however I'm
not sure about disconnecting the throttle, carb hear and mixture controls, (Subaru)
which are mounted on the panel. Which end will I disconnect them at or
do they unscrew at the panel end. Any advice appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Field" <peter.field(at)hgfield.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage cradle |
John,
Thanks for that. Have located a ready built example which will save a lot of
hassle!
Regards
Peter
HG Field & Co, Registered Auditors & Accountants, 2 Guildford Street,
Chertsey, Surrey, KT16 9BQ. Tel:01932 563404 Fax:01932 562074.
Founder members of the Value Added Network - the UK network of 450
independent firms committed to making businesses more successful.
DISCLAIMER
The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential and
disclosure to anyone other than the addressee is unauthorised. If you are
not the addressee, please delete it and advise the sender by return email.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Fuselage cradle
Peter
The Europa factory (Neville Eyre) kindly provided me with a sketch for a
metal fuselage cradle.
If you contact me off line with your address or fax number I will be happy
to
pass it on. Be aware though that the metal cradle is heavy - you may prefer
to make your cradle out of wood, using the factory sketch as a rough guide.
Regards
John Heykoop
XS Monowheel #536
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
I have a tubular steel fuselage dolly, home made to factory design. On
three swivelling/locking castors. My Tri Gear is now on it's 'Own Three
Legs' so to make room in my workshop I would like to offer this to anyone
who can take it away. I live just south of Preston in Lancashire.
Suitable for Tri or Mono (with a little modification).
Free to good home!
Yes I have already contacted Peter Field but he lives in Surrey and
transport would be a problem.
If interested please contact me off forum and I can email a pic.
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chetwynd-Talbot" <markt(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | id (Interference from Radio) |
Dear All,
I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility of this
sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of a cut
out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch is
depressed.
My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and what is
the simplest solution please.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.K. Hallett III" <reddog(at)gbis.com> |
I have a question about the fuel tank install.
Following the instructions, I have the spacers holding the luggage bay
back at 323mm. However, when I tilt the tank back to touch the aft wall
it rotates the lower portion into the spar box. All this without any
spacers between the tank and cockpit module. The trick at this point is
to rotate it enough to clear the controls, fuel out lets and not so much
as to compromise the spar box. Anyone else have this problem? What was
your solution?
Thanks,
Ralph Hallett
MotorGlider XS
Reno, NV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Hi Mark,
If you find a solution to this problem I would be pleased to hear from
you. I have had the same problem for 5 years!!
Barry Tennant
Mark Chetwynd-Talbot schrieb:
>
> Dear All,
>
> I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
> to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
> does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility of this
> sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of a cut
> out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch is
> depressed.
>
> My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and what is
> the simplest solution please.
>
> Mark
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.389 / Virus Database: 220 - Release Date: 16/09/02
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alexander P. de C. Kaarsberg" <kaarsber(at)terra.com.br> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Hi Mark,
Although this story does not relate to any Europa I remember some 20
years ago a 747 from Pakistan on stop in Copenhagen, just after takeoff,
the rudder (a very large one...) deflected fully to one side and almost
made it crash......after lots of troubleshooting without being able to
replicate the problem they flew off again only to have it happen again!
At some point a bright person realized that it happened at the time the
flight engineer hit the ptt switch to report takeoff on the HF to home
base....and the problem was found in the lack of proper shielding in the
lead to the antenna- the HF system sends high energy to the antenna and
must be well shielded.
I would go for attacking the problem, not finding a way around it....it
might even better the performance of the radio.
Alex, kit 529
Mark Chetwynd-Talbot wrote:
>Dear All,
>
>I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
>to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
>does a violent turn to the left! ........(X)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lisbet og Gert Dalgaard <lgds(at)post6.tele.dk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Me too - but not for five years!! (- only since '99, so...)
Regards Gert
-------------------------------------------------------
Gert Dalgaard Srensen
Stabelvej 9, Haarby
DK 8660 Skanderborg
Denmark
Europa builder No. 151
OY-GDS - Europa Classic/914
Phone.: +45 8695 0595
E mail: lgds(at)post6.tele.dk
http://home19.inet.tele.dk/dalgaard/oygds.jpeg
-------------------------------------------------------
Barrington Tennant wrote:
> Hi Mark,
>
> If you find a solution to this problem I would be pleased to hear from
> you. I have had the same problem for 5 years!!
>
> Barry Tennant
>
> Mark Chetwynd-Talbot schrieb:
> >
> > Dear All,
> >
> > I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
> > to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
> > does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility of this
> > sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of a cut
> > out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch is
> > depressed.
> >
> > My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and what is
> > the simplest solution please.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > ---
> > Version: 6.0.389 / Virus Database: 220 - Release Date: 16/09/02
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Clifton" <simon.clifton(at)thorcom.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
tests=QUOTED_EMAIL_TEXT,REFERENCES,SPAM_PHRASE_05_08,
USER_AGENT_OE
version=2.42
Chaps
A couple of people say:
> I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is
pressed
> to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
> does a violent turn to the left!
This sounds like an electrical nightmare to me. In my professional
life, my company manufactures navigation and radio equipment for fitting
into road vehicles, and we have to do extensive testing to avoid this sort
of thing (you need to prove that you won't set off the air-bags when
you turn it on etc etc.)
Alex is correct to check your radio is working properly, but I assume
that it is (or you would probably know about it), and the whole idea
of a radio is to emit pretty energetic waves anyway..... Check the
antenna cable anyway - it should be easy enough I presume.
It seems to me that the Navaid unit is susceptible to radio interference
which is causing the problem. I would have thought that Navaid should
have designed their unit to withstand this (as they can expect you to have
a radio nearby), so they should be able to help you.
If not, and this was one of our boxes, then I would suggest a couple of
things, in the following order of effectiveness and convenience:
- Put the Navaid box in a metal outer box, if it is not already. Ground the
metal box (connect it to 0 Volts). This will screen the unit from
penetrating radio waves. If it is already in a metal box, inspect the
cable and connector back to 0 volts. Make sure the conductor itself is
well made, is as short as possible, and is at least as highly current
rated as the power cable.
- The cables in to and out of the box will work like fairly efficient
antennas,
and will conduct the interference inside despite there being a metal box.
The
way to fix this is to clip on a ferrite core as close as you can to the
box entry point. You can buy clip-on cores from most electronics stores.
Clip
cores onto the longest cables first.
- Screening the cables. Use a screened cable, bonding the cable screen at
the
(now metal) box end. Depending on the cable routing arrangements, this
might be
too much to ask........
By-the-way, please take these as generic suggestions only, I have no
specific
knowledge of how the Navaid system actually works!
Simon
~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | edbearing wheels |
.
Does anyone know where Dennis Vories obtained outrigger and tail wheels
with sealed bearings?
Thanks
Tom
beecho@pw-x.com
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Dalgaard
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
Me too - but not for five years!! (- only since '99, so...)
Regards Gert
-------------------------------------------------------
Gert Dalgaard Srensen
Stabelvej 9, Haarby
DK 8660 Skanderborg
Denmark
Europa builder No. 151
OY-GDS - Europa Classic/914
Phone.: +45 8695 0595
E mail: lgds(at)post6.tele.dk
http://home19.inet.tele.dk/dalgaard/oygds.jpeg
-------------------------------------------------------
Barrington Tennant wrote:
> Hi Mark,
>
> If you find a solution to this problem I would be pleased to hear from
> you. I have had the same problem for 5 years!!
>
> Barry Tennant
>
> Mark Chetwynd-Talbot schrieb:
> >
> > Dear All,
> >
> > I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is
pressed
> > to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the
aeroplane
> > does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility
of this
> > sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of
a cut
> > out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch
is
> > depressed.
> >
> > My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and
what is
> > the simplest solution please.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > ---
> > Version: 6.0.389 / Virus Database: 220 - Release Date: 16/09/02
> >
> >
> > The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Mark,
I believe a good number of people have had to do this retrospectively - it
was discussed recently on the AeroElectric list (see www.matronics.com). If
you check the archives, I am sure you will find all the details you need -
including Bob Nuckoll's thoughts, which are typically based on solid
experience and considerable thought.
Regards,
Jeremy
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
Dear All,
I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility of this
sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of a cut
out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch is
depressed.
My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and what is
the simplest solution please.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david.hillam(at)cwctv.net |
--1035762084823
Brien also did my panel. His workmanship is excellent.
The mobile number in Peter's e-mail is correct but not, I think, the other. He
is now working for Wilksch, not at Hinton-in-the-Hedges.
That said, I have left messages for him almost daily on his phones for the last
couple of weeks, to no effect.
David Hillam
Kit 113 G-SHSH
David Hillam
--1035762084823
From: "Peter Davis" <pm.davis(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Instruments
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 16:49:09 -0000
Brien Nelson 'did' my panel and installation and made a very good job of it.
However, he is no longer at RD Aviation. In fact none of the original people
are there - Dickie, Alan, Brien etc are all gone and it is now merely a
small outpost of the larger AFE organisation.
Last time I contacted Brien he was working at Hinton-in-the-Hedges airfield,
doing all the same stuff and I have two 'phone numbers for him which I hope
he doesn't mind me passing around. His mobile is (was) 07711523821 and work
number (with similar qualification) is (01865) 523821.
Suffering from memory problems as I do, I think that having the same number
for all my telephones would be a wonderful idea!
Bit drafty for flying in southern England today (Sun 27th.)
Peter Davis #154 and well tied down!
Please note change of e-address :-
peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Instruments
Message text written by INTERNET:riddon(at)btinternet.com
>I know this is a big subject but any opinions on where is the best place
to
buy instruments & avionics in the UK? <
I bought my instruments about 3 years ago so this info might be a little
dated. In terms of knowledge and customer backup RD Aviation (now AFE)
provided the best service. When the club was running seminars they gave
very helpful talks on how to design and build your own panel. If this was
all too daunting they would provide a build and fitting service. Brien
Nelson (who works with RD, tel 01865 377106) has built and fitted many
Europa panels and has a wealth of envaluable experience.The only other
avionics company to attend these seminars was only interested in using it
to sell there products. If low prices and prompt mail order was required I
would recommend Harry Mendelssohn.
>I understand that they are much cheaper in the US. <
Generally this is correct but I found it cheaper to buy my Garmin
transponder and Skyforce Colourmap in the UK.
> Anyone taken the trouble to import or is the price advantage then negated
with taxes etc? The
alternative I suppose is to take a budget trip across the pond and bring
some back but I guess this would be smuggling.<
If you intend importing from the USA you can limit the duty to just the VAT
by getting an Enduser certificate from your local Customs and Excise
Office. This saves about 4%. This can be used whether you get the items
mailed or collect them yourself. There is a lot to be said in timing a
visit to the USA to tie in with either Sun 'n' Fun or Oshkosh. That way you
can buy everything at once with no postage costs. To avoid disappointment
it may be worth reserving products from retailers for collection in
advance. Remember that European users will require the European versions of
items like GPS's to ensure the correct database is installed.
Nigel Charles
--1035762084823--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Mark,
Not a help but I have the same problem, I will keep a close eye on this
thread to see how you get on.
Good luck
Kev T
GOURO
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
Dear All,
I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility of this
sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of a cut
out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch is
depressed.
My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and what is
the simplest solution please.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Cheers,
Not to make too big a hoohaw about it, but I am assuming
everyone is thinking about protecting various devices from "radiating
interference". That may be the problem, but I invite you also to consider
another very prevalent cause, partuclarly with transmitters:
the connectors........ If you are using RG58 or RG400, who made up your
antenna lead(s)? If it was you, are you competent to do so? This is not a
snub but a valid question.
I was RMI (radio magnetic interference) chairman of our local
club for many years, sent out to rationalise 'interference' problems
reported by neighbours and hams. The following is my experience in this
matter.
In Amateur Radio, many folk complain of "interference" when in
fact the problem is 'breakthrough' - their devices are 'listening' to
frequencies from which they should be properly shielded. The rest are 95%
caused by faulty connector preparation. If you (or your agent) did the work,
were they qualified? The instructions, to be found most often in the Am Rad
Handbook or by the valid manufacturer, are complete and detailed. If they
were not followed to the letter, faulty connectors are the most prevalent
cause.
As well, the correct model connectors are critical.. just
because it seems the right size does not mean it is the proper connector. In
addition, moisture, and vibration are the enemies of correct transmitting
coaxial fittings - and there are several 'classes' of these as well.
Weatherproof versions have a suffix to denote the specialty.
In sum, I would say if you worried the connectors onto the
coaxial cable without following the instructions to the letter, this may be
the probable cause. Solve that and the 'interference' disappears.
IMO,
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Sounds like this pretty prevalent. Having now had dinner (and Nic did a
superb chili - sorry for the diversion from topic), I've dug out the threads
of emails about it and have pasted them below.
Regards,
Jeremy
Europa XS Monowheel G-EZZA
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan
>
>
>"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Michel Therrien
>
> > >
> > >
> > >Hello friends,
> > >
> > >For those of you using a Navaid Devices autopilot with
> > >a VFR panel (no VOR and only 1 VHF), do you (or should
> > >I) connect the optional diode to the PTT switch?
> > >
> > >I'll be using an Apollo SL-40 COM.
> >
> > I'm mystified as to what the Navaid has to do
> > with any wiring to the PTT switch. On who's
> > drawing is the diode mentioned and what notes
> > support the option decision?
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>
>Bob, the diode is intended to momentarily disconnect the servo from the
>control head (I don't recall if it interrupts power or signal) when the
>PTT is activated. Apparently there have been some cases where RFI or
>something upset the servo during radio transmissions. The diode is shown
>on Navaid's installation diagrams.
>
>I included the diode in my Navaid installation even though I have no
>idea if it is necessary. The only downside of it is when I have allowed
>the plane to get significantly out of trim due to fuel imbalance; a
>slight roll will occur when the PTT is used.
Interesting! If you can't live with the stress, just shut it
off during stress . . . I'm not sure I'd take that approach
to solving an RF interference problem but I guess it would
work.
Bob . . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
>
>
>Sam -
>
>I believe that some of the problem here is that "PTT" has taken on too
>many meanings to be of use as an acronym - at least on this list. One
>is: Push-To-Talk. Another is: Push-To-Test, and yours is
>"Push-To-disconnecT. Maybe someone on the list can can come up with a
>more descriptive acronym for your situation.
>
>Mine is "APED": Auto Pilot Emergency Disconnect
Bizjets have buttons called "Wheel Master Disconnects"
that shut down all motor driven flight control surfaces
(a/p and trim servos) with the press of a single button.
There's another button on some aircraft called "Control
Wheel Steering" that disconnects autopilot steering for
duration of switch depression. Once released, the a/p
resumes it's last condition.
In this case, a "PTT" input to the autopilot is somewhat
analogous to "Control Wheel Steering" in that it temporarily
disables the autopilot . . . but for the wrong reasons.
Bob . . .
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
Mark,
Not a help but I have the same problem, I will keep a close eye on this
thread to see how you get on.
Good luck
Kev T
GOURO
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
Dear All,
I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility of this
sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of a cut
out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch is
depressed.
My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and what is
the simplest solution please.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RPM rough running |
Folks,
I had a intermittent problem today with rough running at low rpm 2500-3000
rpm on my Subaru. It cleared by leaning the engine then going back to fully
rich was then OK again apart from once or twice but generally I was able to
replicate it enough times to confirm leaning did solve the problem. The
first time I noticed it was immediately on start up from cold on the first
run of the day, it got rough I leaned it then put it back to fully rich and
it stopped! I'm thinking along the lines that it may be possibly plug
fouling or just somehow the slow running jet is too rich? I haven't had the
plugs out yet but will next time I'm at the field. I incidentally it does
run rich and always has done other Subaru owner I have spoken to have always
leaned even on the ground, to assist in avoiding fouling.
Its been as sweet as a nut since I got it and I've done 50 hours in the last
3 months and never seen a suggestion of this before. Plugs are only about
15-20 hours old.
Any suggestions appreciated (other than put a 912 in which I'm sure some of
you are muttering under your breath right now)
Kev T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel removal |
Simon,
Thanks for that and having had a closer look I now see that the throttle,
carb heat and mixture are actually mounted on a separate plate behind the
panel therefore I believe they will stay in place (at least mounted on said
plate) when I remove the panel.
As for a good reason to remove it well that's a matter of debate. There
nothing broken but I would like to make improvements. The Autopilot wont
interface with the GPS as it should, not a necessity but would be nice. I
want to fit a panel light just incase I arrive back at dusk one day, purely
for a back up and peace of mind etc. I want to mount my 295 in to the panel
rather than having to look down at it as the only place it will currently
mount is on top of the tunnel. My intercom picks up all kind of crap noise
which is bearable but not ideal so I want to replace that and ensure it is
screened and suppressed. I do also feel knowing what's behind the panel and
how it works builds more confidence in the aircraft, might sound daft to
some but as I didn't build it I have a desire to understand it.
Kind regards
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Panel removal
Six screws around the edge of the throttle, mixture and carb controls
attach their mounting plate to the panel. The're probably painted over
in the panel finish. Remove them and their mounting plate becomes loose.
As you remove the panel the controls pull through the rectangular hole.
Hope you've got a good reason for removing the panel: you'llwish you had.
Simon Longstaff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Hammond" <Nick.Hammond(at)saabsystems.com.au> |
Richard,
I had a similar problem -- the tank is pretty irregular and I had to remove a fairly
large bulge by the application of heat and pressure for a few dayys. The
tank is actually positioned slightly "below" (i.e. in the sense of the completed
aircraft) the seat back top and the gap isn't necessarily going to be parallel.
Once I had it roughly positioned, I used wooden spacers (about 5mm by 25mm
cross section) to set the gap between the seat-back and the cargo bay bulkhead
to the correct dimension (323 mm sounds about right) and then laid up a uni
strap over plstic tape on each spacer to keep the whole thing rigid while doing
the tank layups and other fuse module work. I removed the wooden spacers when
finally installing the module in the fuselage.
The important thing is to make sure you have room for the wing spars when the tank
is finally positioned -- as a few builders have discovered, having it too
low in the aircraft can spoil your whole day.
Best regards,
Nick
-----Original Message-----
Subject: fuel tank
I have a question about the fuel tank install.
Following the instructions, I have the spacers holding the luggage bay
back at 323mm. However, when I tilt the tank back to touch the aft wall
it rotates the lower portion into the spar box. All this without any
spacers between the tank and cockpit module. The trick at this point is
to rotate it enough to clear the controls, fuel out lets and not so much
as to compromise the spar box. Anyone else have this problem? What was
your solution?
Thanks,
Ralph Hallett
MotorGlider XS
Reno, NV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt(at)btinternet.com> |
ditto - so I have now got on with the panel myself!
It is fun, challenging and thought provoking - and there are lots of people
around who have successfully DIY'd.
Steve Pitt #403
----- Original Message -----
From: <david.hillam(at)cwctv.net>
Subject: Re: Instruments
> Brien also did my panel. His workmanship is excellent.
>
> The mobile number in Peter's e-mail is correct but not, I think, the
other. He is now working for Wilksch, not at Hinton-in-the-Hedges.
>
> That said, I have left messages for him almost daily on his phones for the
last couple of weeks, to no effect.
>
> David Hillam
> Kit 113 G-SHSH
>
> David Hillam
>
wrote:
>
----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Navaid" problem |
In a message dated 10/28/2002 3:16:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, VE3LVO(at)rac.ca writes:
> Cheers,
> Not to make too big a hoohaw about it, but I am assuming
> everyone is thinking about protecting various devices from "radiating
> interference". That may be the problem, but I invite you also to consider
> another very prevalent cause, particularly with transmitters:
> the connectors........ If you are using RG58 or RG400, who made up your
> antenna lead(s)? If it was you, are you competent to do so? This is not a
> snub but a valid question.
> I was RMI (radio magnetic interference) chairman of our local
> club for many years, sent out to rationalize 'interference' problems
> reported by neighbours and hams. The following is my experience in this
> matter.
> In Amateur Radio, many folk complain of "interference" when in
> fact the problem is 'breakthrough' - their devices are 'listening' to
> frequencies from which they should be properly shielded. The rest are 95%
> caused by faulty connector preparation. If you (or your agent) did the work,
> were they qualified? The instructions, to be found most often in the Am Rad
> Handbook or by the valid manufacturer, are complete and detailed. If they
> were not followed to the letter, faulty connectors are the most prevalent
> cause.
> As well, the correct model connectors are critical.. just
> because it seems the right size does not mean it is the proper connector. In
> addition, moisture, and vibration are the enemies of correct transmitting
> coaxial fittings - and there are several 'classes' of these as well.
> Weatherproof versions have a suffix to denote the specialty.
> In sum, I would say if you worried the connectors onto the
> coaxial cable without following the instructions to the letter, this may be
> the probable cause. Solve that and the 'interference'
> disappears.
> IMO,
> Ferg
######Just to throw a spanner into the works here - I have an interference problem
with my engine monitor. When I transmit, I get spurious readings. I have tried
to shield, but one interesting thing must be noted. I tried my hand held
radio in the cockpit and I get the same effect on the monitor (although not as
pronounced - lower transmit strength). This eliminates any possibility that I
have a problem with my antenna cables in the airplane. The RF energy is getting
into the system somehow. RIght now, this is low on my priority list and the
long term solution may be to ignore the engine readings when i transmit!
I also have a twin comanche with an electronic OAT gauge which goes nuts when you
transmit also. I just ignore it.......
Dave
Owner and CEO
Mini U2 Aircraft Corporation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
| Subject: | s or Kit for an R/C model Europa? |
Does anyone know of plans for a scale flying model of the Europa, or if an R/C
model kit is available? John at Europa in Lakeland said he has an R/C magazine
cover in his office that shows a Classic version. Anyone have any details?
(Nigel, he said you might!)
Thanks,
Cleve Lee
A198 Mono XS Jabiru 3300 N396ST
Detroit, MI USofA
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plans or Kit for an R/C model Europa? |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
R/C Flyer (?) issued plans some time ago. It's Europa-ish but had to
have the cockpit modified slightly to get the R/C bits in.
I have the plans if you want a copy.
Tony
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Plans or Kit for an R/C model Europa?
Does anyone know of plans for a scale flying model of the Europa, or if
an R/C model kit is available? John at Europa in Lakeland said he has
an R/C magazine cover in his office that shows a Classic version.
Anyone have any details? (Nigel, he said you might!)
Thanks,
Cleve Lee
A198 Mono XS Jabiru 3300 N396ST
Detroit, MI USofA
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: "Navaid" problem |
DJA,
"> ######Just to throw a spanner into the works here - I have an
interference problem with my engine monitor. When I transmit, I get spurious
readings. I have tried to shield, but one interesting thing must be noted. I
tried my hand held radio in the cockpit and I get the same effect on the
monitor (although not as pronounced - lower transmit strength). This
eliminates any possibility that I have a problem with my antenna cables in
the airplane. The RF energy is getting into the system somehow. RIght now,
this is low on my priority list and the long term solution may be to ignore
the engine readings when i transmit!"
Quite right. It's perfectly true that transmission power can upset delicate
detectors, and some manufacturers make them far too sensitive without regard
to protective circuits - it's cheaper. The early Korean 2-head VCRs are a
perfect example.
However, it's also true that a one-watt handheld at one foot is
just as powerful as an 10-watt inbuilt, when the latter's antenna is four
feet away. Something about the inverse square of the distance. There is a
limit to practicality.
Tracing the leads to eliminate proximity might be useful.
Locating the antenna well back in the fuselage likewise. But I still say the
vast majority of problems has been solved by securing the connectors - in my
40 years anyway. The twin Comanche doesn't really matter as far as OAT goes,
but a sharp left bank is much more critical.
A careful ham in Essex was driven off the air by neighbours even
when he proved his transmission were squeaky clean. But he persisted and in
the course of his long search, he discovered a rusted windowsill in his
neighbour's greenhouse formed a diode junction at a very sensitive
frequency. It was rebroadcasting his emissions. Only after he proved the
case (it took police to force the neigbour to allow the test) and a year's
wait for rectification, was he able to continue transmitting. Sometimes it's
a third party.........
It doesn't hurt to examine the connectors annually though.
Good luck,
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Mark,
I dont know if your symptoms are exactly the same and it might help the
experts among you to find the cause.
My Navaid deflects when I release the PTT not press it!!!
When I press it it freezes the device in the last position as it should.
I have got into the habit of switching it off to transmit.
Barry Tennant
Mark Chetwynd-Talbot schrieb:
>
> Dear All,
>
> I have a Navaid Devices wing leveller fitted. When the PTT switch is pressed
> to send on the radio, if the wing leveller is functioning, the aeroplane
> does a violent turn to the left! The manual mentions the possibility of this
> sort of interference and suggests proper shielding or the fitting of a cut
> out switch that will disable the wing leveller when the PTT switch is
> depressed.
>
> My question is: Has anyone else had to do this retrospectively - and what is
> the simplest solution please.
>
> Mark
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.389 / Virus Database: 220 - Release Date: 16/09/02
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chetwynd-Talbot" <markt(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Very many thanks to all who have responded to this thread with a lot of
useful ideas! When someone SOLVES their problem retrospectively, please post
the solution to the forum.
Meanwhile, I will consult my own panel maker (a young man called Matthew) -
who hopefully might have been reading all of this!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dari Sagar" <dari_sagar(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003 |
Bryan,
Please could you put me and Gail down for the Irish tour. Thanks. There was
a very comprehensive article on flying in Ireland in either 'The Flyer' or
'Pilot' magazine. I'll try and send you the piece (if I could dig it up).
Hope Sylvija is well and that her foot has now back to normal.
Regards,
Dari
From: BRYNALL(at)aol.com
>Subject: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003
>Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:36:38 EDT
>
>I am organising a 5/6 day trip around The Emerald Island for next year,
>
>I have never been there before so I am open to suggestions for good
>destinations.
>
>It will be another six Europa squadron, so if you would like to join in
>please put pur name forward early.
>Once again. the intention is to allow plenty of time for things to go
>wrong,
>and for relaxing in good company.
>You wont need to be a flying ace!
>
>If any of those famous Irish welcomes are still around, it would be nice to
>hear from you. Be warned though, you could be dumped on by six europas!
>
>Bryan Allsop G-BYSA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003 |
Bryan,
You could do a lot worse than including Coonagh (Limerick Flying Club) and Newtownards
(Ulster Flying Club) in your plans. I've visited both and the reception
left me nursing a heavy hangover...always a sign of a good time (not that I
remember much!!!). We also have a few builders dotted around these two locations
and I'm sure they would be pleased to see you.
Regards
Mark
................................................................................................
From: BRYNALL(at)aol.com
>Subject: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003
>Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:36:38 EDT
>
>I am organising a 5/6 day trip around The Emerald Island for next year,
>
>I have never been there before so I am open to suggestions for good
>destinations.
>
>It will be another six Europa squadron, so if you would like to join in
>please put pur name forward early.
>Once again. the intention is to allow plenty of time for things to go
>wrong,
>and for relaxing in good company.
>You wont need to be a flying ace!
>
>If any of those famous Irish welcomes are still around, it would be nice to
>hear from you. Be warned though, you could be dumped on by six europas!
>
>Bryan Allsop G-BYSA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hedleybrown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Is your radio on the carefully segregated avionics bus or is it stuck on the
master bus like mine was (now isn't)? hb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Chetwynd-Talbot" <markt(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
> Very many thanks to all who have responded to this thread with a lot of
> useful ideas! When someone SOLVES their problem retrospectively, please
post
> the solution to the forum.
>
> Meanwhile, I will consult my own panel maker (a young man called
Matthew) -
> who hopefully might have been reading all of this!
>
> Mark
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.389 / Virus Database: 220 - Release Date: 16/09/02
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by McFadyean
>Nigel Charles (?) also mentioned carb. temperatures he had measured.
I would argue that the close proximity of the rear cylinder exhaust header
pipes (on the Classic, not the XS) provide a considerable amount of
radiated heat to the body of the carb.<
Whilst the aluminium used in the construction of the carbs is a good
conductor of heat or cold I believe there is likely to be quite a
temperature gradient across the carb. Many of us have fitted tray type
heatshields below the carb to protect the float chamber against the heat
of the exhaust manifold. Even so the ambient cowl temperature tends to warm
the carb anyway. In contrast temperatures within the carb in the vicinity
of the throttle butterfly often go below zero during colder weather. My
sensor protrudes into the carb at just this point so is a reasonable
indicator as to the temperature at the point where ice might form. Like
most other Rotax operators I have not experienced icing but I monitor the
engine more closely once I get a warning that the carb temp is below zero.
As an aside it is possible to cause carb icing using carb heat. Carb icing
is most likely to form in the temperature band zero down to -5degC. If
during cold weather operation, with a carb temp at say -10degC, carb heat
is used it will bring the carb temp up to the danger zone. With this in
mind, if carb heat is to be used, it is important that it can always lift
the carb temp above zero. I think the large source of heat provided by the
coolant in the Skydrive unit should be able to achieve this but this is a
relevant point for aircooled engines. In case anyone thinks they are not
likely to operate with carb temps down to -10degC the drop in pressure and
loss of heat through fuel vapourisation reduces the carb temp well below
the OAT(in early October I saw the carb temp read -5degC with an OAT of
+5degC).
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
>When I press it it freezes the device in the last position as it should.
>I have got into the habit of switching it off to transmit.
>
>Barry Tennant
Maybe a diode in the disable line might fix that? Just a guess.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
> >When I press it it freezes the device in the last position as it should.
> >I have got into the habit of switching it off to transmit.
> >
> >Barry Tennant
>
> Maybe a diode in the disable line might fix that? Just a guess.
> Graham
Agreed. feels like the jolt of turning off occurs just after the
Navaid is unfrozen. An induction fault?
Graham: Do you think maybe a coil would change the timing?
Ferg
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
I have a friend who sprays cars for a living and he has agreed to paint my
Europa. I intend to sheet up my workshop and spray in there but the
compressor I currently have isn't up the job. Anyone got, or know where to
obtain a second hand compressor they might want to sell (or loan for a
couple of months)? I am told that I could do with around 15CFM air output.
I live in Lancashire but could travel (a little way) to collect.
Cheers
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Is this experience with or without the Skydrive carb.heater? Which may help
to answer Carl's original question.
Don't forget that the heater works by warming the carb body so that ice
does not form on it (or is shed easily once it has formed?); the heater
does not significantly heat the air. This would not help much with keeping
the butterfly warm (and thus to prevent impact ice that had formed in the
venturi upstream accumulating on it). Its not clear which of these two
aspects your temperature sensor is monitoring (i.e. carb body or
airstream).
Does anyone know what the water flow rate is across the Skydrive heater (or
the pressure differential betwixt the two water tappings on the system)?
Duncan McF
On Tuesday, October 29, 2002 1:22 PM, Nigel Charles
[SMTP:72016.3721(at)compuserve.com] wrote:
> Message text written by McFadyean
> >Nigel Charles (?) also mentioned carb. temperatures he had measured.
> I would argue that the close proximity of the rear cylinder exhaust he
ader
> pipes (on the Classic, not the XS) provide a considerable amount of
> radiated heat to the body of the carb.<
>
> Whilst the aluminium used in the construction of the carbs is a good
> conductor of heat or cold I believe there is likely to be quite a
> temperature gradient across the carb. Many of us have fitted tray type
> heatshields below the carb to protect the float chamber against the heat
> of the exhaust manifold. Even so the ambient cowl temperature tends to
warm
> the carb anyway. In contrast temperatures within the carb in the vicinity
> of the throttle butterfly often go below zero during colder weather. My
> sensor protrudes into the carb at just this point so is a reasonable
> indicator as to the temperature at the point where ice might form. Like
> most other Rotax operators I have not experienced icing but I monitor the
> engine more closely once I get a warning that the carb temp is below
zero.
>
> As an aside it is possible to cause carb icing using carb heat. Carb
icing
> is most likely to form in the temperature band zero down to -5degC. If
> during cold weather operation, with a carb temp at say -10degC, carb heat
> is used it will bring the carb temp up to the danger zone. With this in
> mind, if carb heat is to be used, it is important that it can always lift
> the carb temp above zero. I think the large source of heat provided by
the
> coolant in the Skydrive unit should be able to achieve this but this is a
> relevant point for aircooled engines. In case anyone thinks they are not
> likely to operate with carb temps down to -10degC the drop in pressure
and
> loss of heat through fuel vapourisation reduces the carb temp well below
> the OAT(in early October I saw the carb temp read -5degC with an OAT of
> +5degC).
>
> Nigel Charles
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003 |
Mark,
Many thanks for your suggestions, I will have a look at both of them.
If you can come up with any more helpful suggestions, or contacts I would be
grateful.
It would be good to fly the flag and meet up with local builders etc.
Best regards ......Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
I'm fairly certain the problem is a composite airplane, meaning
everything metal inside is bathed in transmitted RF, with "floating"
electrical grounds at RF, and getting into the Navaid. I suspect the
RF is getting in through the its ground, as this wire seemed the most
sensitive also to "AC hum" pickup, which sent the thing a grinding.
In bench-checking the Navaid A/P recently, several other things were
observed, using TX from a handheld. Using shielded for 3-wire cable
to the servo did help, and the shield need not be (and possibly best
not) grounded. Shielding either the panel unit or the servo unit
didn't help. It didn't appear to be the green servo signal cable
either, as it's a nominal 130 Hz square wave, which appears immune to
about 200mV of higher-frequency junk superimposed on it when the servo
motor is working.
Interesting was adding a radiating element (wire) to the servo arm -
it's at ground potential, and it was then more sensitive to
transmitted RF, depending upon length/orientation of the wire. This
suggests the servo's mechanical connection to the aileron torque tube
should be nonconductive (and sufficiently high capacitance). Which is
what I shall do, in addition to shielded wire.
Anyway, when something is surprisingly sensitive to mere AC hum from
the human body whilst inside the house, high power RF can easily cause
problems. However, there may be no universal solution, as it's all
theoretically dependent upon the lengths and polarization of offending
wire or metal elements vs. VHF comm frequencies. So there's many
possible solutions to try!
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Gray" <chris(at)chrisgray.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003 |
Bryan,
You could indeed do a lot worse than including Newtownards in your
Ireland trip. Apart from myself there is at least one other Europa
builder & a couple ready to start here. You would be made most welcome.
Chris Gray
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003
Bryan,
You could do a lot worse than including Coonagh (Limerick Flying Club)
and Newtownards (Ulster Flying Club) in your plans. I've visited both
and the reception left me nursing a heavy hangover...always a sign of a
good time (not that I remember much!!!). We also have a few builders
dotted around these two locations and I'm sure they would be pleased to
see you.
Regards
Mark
........................................................................
........................
From: BRYNALL(at)aol.com
>Subject: Europa Tour of Ireland. May 2003
>Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:36:38 EDT
>
>I am organising a 5/6 day trip around The Emerald Island for next year,
>
>I have never been there before so I am open to suggestions for good
>destinations.
>
>It will be another six Europa squadron, so if you would like to join in
>please put pur name forward early.
>Once again. the intention is to allow plenty of time for things to go
>wrong,
>and for relaxing in good company.
>You wont need to be a flying ace!
>
>If any of those famous Irish welcomes are still around, it would be
nice to
>hear from you. Be warned though, you could be dumped on by six europas!
>
>Bryan Allsop G-BYSA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
Does anyone have a source for the stainless steel a/c no/Registration plate required
by the PFA.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
Mike,
You might want to have a word with the factory - I believe they are looking
at supplying placards, albeit I don't think they are stainless steel.
Regards,
Jeremy
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Placard
Does anyone have a source for the stainless steel a/c no/Registration plate
required by the PFA.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Mike,
We will be able to get these done from the same supplier of the plastic ones that
you've already had. I intend to come up with a standard style placard in SS,
but if you'd like to specify what you want on yours (include dims and text
height and font if different to those on the others) and I'll get you a price.
I also intend to offer plastic registration placards for the instrument panel.
Regards
Andy
>>> "Michael Parkin" 10/30/02 07:46am >>>
Does anyone have a source for the stainless steel a/c no/Registration plate required
by the PFA.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
As some of us found out this year, a "genuine" Noise Certificate can be a very
valuable document to carry when visiting Germany. Some German airports may charge
a much higher landing fee if a noise cert. cannot be produced. For those
in the UK these certificates are supplied by the CAA by 'phoning 01293 573095.
They will post or fax a form for A/C details, including engine and prop details
etc. for completion and then they will send you the appropriate certificate.
No individual testing is involved and I believe no fee.
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
I made a plate from a piece of stainless sheet (offcut from the piece
supplied to make the retract lever bracing strut).
I then took it to the local engravers who engraved the registration number
onto it - cost 5.00.
I have some spare sheet if you need a piece. My plate measured 2"x 1".
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Placard
Does anyone have a source for the stainless steel a/c no/Registration plate
required by the PFA.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spraying compressor |
>I could do with around 15CFM air output
Richard - if, as seems likely, you need 15CFM Free Air Delivered
(FAD) you'll need something bigger than a 13A socket to plug it into.
My compressor is borderline for running off a domestic ring main; if
I remember right it was listed as 14CFM but the FAD (which many don't
advertise too loudly!) is more like 10CFM, so it struggles to keep
going with my small HVLP spraygun. The air demand for a tool is
stated in FAD terms, and 15CFM sounds like the requirement for an
industrial-grade HVLP spray gun. BTW, if the guy is going to be
spraying 2-pack (ie noxious) paint he'll need the second compressor
to drive an air-fed mask (I imagine he'll have one of those as car
paints can be quite unhealthy).
The above electricity comments apply to UK 240v systems - other
countries will have different supply limitations.
regards
Rowland
| PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
| Europa builder #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: On the subject of tyres |
> > Hi Tony!!
> > What is a tyre?
> > kp
>
>It's a city on the Mediterranean coast, but I can't tell you where or I'd
>have to kiln you.
>F
Somewhere near Sidon isn't it? Can't think why i would remember that.
Grem
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage cradle |
>Peter Field wrote:
> Anybody out there got good drawings or even
> > a second hand unit they want to sell?
>For the trigear, I found that the design of a "cradle" is not
>critical. The only important job it will do is when the main gear is
>set up, so it needs only to be reasonably rigid, height-adjustable,
>not interfere with main gear placement, and ability to work underneath
>the fuselage in that area.
Think a moment.
With a good, accurate cradle you can work on the bathtub, with the top
either Clecoed on , or up in the roof somewhere, and get everything set up
accurately, all controls, wing incidence, flaps etc, in relative ease and
comfort. I know the faktry don't approve it but ai can assure you it works
and saves an awful lot of trouble and strife.
It is easy to tip the bath tub on its side and work inside the gear bay in
comfort.
Look at Chick Pop's design. Brilliant and there must be a few around that
guys have finished with?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Surface area increase with sanding 41.4% |
> but there must be a rule
>which states what the maximum grade of paper to use to give the best result
>i.e. you should use 80 Grit advised by Europa on layups before future bonding
>but it always seems a bit coarse to me. I only use 120 Grit for roughing up an
>already preexisting glass surface. How do you get 41.4% increase in surface
>area?
>Tony Renshaw
I once watched a demo at Sun n Fun by an air force expert, (might have been
navy) who said that he'd done tests anmd found to his surprise that fine
abrasive gave the best results. In fact the one he rated best was 3M
Scotbrite soft pads.
Makes a certain amount of sense to me, because it's soft it conforms to the
substrate and abrades the whole surface, whereas 80 grit is rigid and does
not.
Someone else mentioned research that says it is new surface, with low
surface energy that gives good wetting and that may well be the key. Don't
forget the Boeing water test either.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: On the subject of tyres |
>Hi Tony!!
>What is a tyre?
>kp
Hi Kim
I always instinctively spell it that way. Windoze spell check is slowly
making me into a nurvus rekk. Reinforces my paranoid distrust of MS too!
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McKirdy" <garymckirdy(at)gloverb.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM rough running |
Kevin,
I recently had a similar problem whilst ground running my Subaru. I
suspected the excess fuel being a fault in the diaphragm so switched
Elisions with my spare Subaru engine. Fault cleared so I opened the
diaphragm housing to find a waxy residue causing the ball valve to stick in
the open position, the one the diaphragm drives.You can check for this fault
easily by removing the air filter box and running the pump with the mixture
rich and throttle closed engine stopped . There should be no fuel exiting
the meter needle in the throttle body. Run it and cycle the throttle whilst
an observer looks for any fuel excess. If this is your problem you will see
the fuel squirting out of the throttle body venturi against the incoming air
whilst at idle. Without the air filter housing it may even keep running in
this config but with air filter it will rich cut. If you blow through a
narrow tube into the small hole on the right of the throttle venturi
casting, this will open the diaphragm and allow fuel through without running
the engine. If fuel flows after your stop blowing, then that's your problem
and you will have to open the sealed diaphragm housing voiding the warranty
if it is still valid to fix it here or send it back to Ellison. If you get
it to me I will fix it for you providing the above symptoms agree. Let me
know your findings regardless.
Gary McKirdy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk>
Subject: Low RPM rough running
> Folks,
>
> I had a intermittent problem today with rough running at low rpm 2500-3000
> rpm on my Subaru. It cleared by leaning the engine then going back to
fully
> rich was then OK again apart from once or twice but generally I was able
to
> replicate it enough times to confirm leaning did solve the problem. The
> first time I noticed it was immediately on start up from cold on the first
> run of the day, it got rough I leaned it then put it back to fully rich
and
> it stopped! I'm thinking along the lines that it may be possibly plug
> fouling or just somehow the slow running jet is too rich? I haven't had
the
> plugs out yet but will next time I'm at the field. I incidentally it does
> run rich and always has done other Subaru owner I have spoken to have
always
> leaned even on the ground, to assist in avoiding fouling.
>
> Its been as sweet as a nut since I got it and I've done 50 hours in the
last
> 3 months and never seen a suggestion of this before. Plugs are only about
> 15-20 hours old.
>
> Any suggestions appreciated (other than put a 912 in which I'm sure some
of
> you are muttering under your breath right now)
>
> Kev T
> ---
> Version: 6.0.400 / Virus Database: 226 - Release Date: 09/10/02
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Certificates |
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
As some of us found out this year, a "genuine" Noise Certificate can be a
very valuable document to carry when visiting Germany. Some German airports
may charge a much higher landing fee if a noise cert. cannot be produced.
For those in the UK these certificates are supplied by the CAA by 'phoning
01293 573095. They will post or fax a form for A/C details, including
engine and prop details etc. for completion and then they will send you the
appropriate certificate. No individual testing is involved and I believe no
fee.
William,
On phoning the above number a Steve Arrowsmith tells me that noise
certificates are only available in respect of aircraft with a full C of A or
microlights, but not permit aircraft. Will you please let us know exactly
what sort of certificate you managed to obtain as he says that he will be
happy to oblige if I can find out what it is that was issued to you.
Regards,
Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Web Site links |
Jeremy,
Be sure you include www.bluemountainavionics.com. They manufacture a neat
EFIS system. There are a few being fitted to Europas now. It fits the
trigear panel OK. Too large for the mono but we're working on a solution.
Jim & Heather A185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage cradle |
Hi! With the width of the fusilage bottom spread and adequately propped
apart to a controlled width it is possible to suspend it with flat belt
slings so that it can be rotated in the slings.
But you need to ensure that the slings don't work forward and slip off. With
that set up onto a two pulley block system overhead I could turn the whole
aircraft over on my own once the top was on.
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Fuselage cradle
>Peter Field wrote:
> Anybody out there got good drawings or even
> > a second hand unit they want to sell?
>For the trigear, I found that the design of a "cradle" is not
>critical. The only important job it will do is when the main gear is
>set up, so it needs only to be reasonably rigid, height-adjustable,
>not interfere with main gear placement, and ability to work underneath
>the fuselage in that area.
Think a moment.
With a good, accurate cradle you can work on the bathtub, with the top
either Clecoed on , or up in the roof somewhere, and get everything set up
accurately, all controls, wing incidence, flaps etc, in relative ease and
comfort. I know the faktry don't approve it but ai can assure you it works
and saves an awful lot of trouble and strife.
It is easy to tip the bath tub on its side and work inside the gear bay in
comfort.
Look at Chick Pop's design. Brilliant and there must be a few around that
guys have finished with?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage cradle |
I too used the sling method of supporting the fuselage but later modified
the scheme. Prior to bonding on the top I used two block and tackle hoists
at the forward end (in addition to the sling and hoist aft) lifting via
eyebolts through the spar pin bushings, and after the top was on hung the
beast using a square tube held to the spar bushings, with the eyebolts now
outboard of the fuselage sides. With three adjustment points the fuselage
can easily be leveled on two axes, and the elevation can be set for
convenient work height, plus (for the tri-gear) this "infinitely" adjustable
height simplifies mounting of the main gear legs. A side benefit of the
sling vs. cradle is being able to hoist the fuselage high enough to permit
parking my car under the fuselage (until I installed the landing gear, that
is). However, one disadvantage becomes apparent when it is time to rig the
wings which can not be done with the slings (especially in a two car
garage).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of R.C.Harrison
Subject: Re: Fuselage cradle
Hi! With the width of the fusilage bottom spread and adequately propped
apart to a controlled width it is possible to suspend it with flat belt
slings so that it can be rotated in the slings.
But you need to ensure that the slings don't work forward and slip off. With
that set up onto a two pulley block system overhead I could turn the whole
aircraft over on my own once the top was on.
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Fuselage cradle
>Peter Field wrote:
> Anybody out there got good drawings or even
> > a second hand unit they want to sell?
>For the trigear, I found that the design of a "cradle" is not
>critical. The only important job it will do is when the main gear is
>set up, so it needs only to be reasonably rigid, height-adjustable,
>not interfere with main gear placement, and ability to work underneath
>the fuselage in that area.
Think a moment.
With a good, accurate cradle you can work on the bathtub, with the top
either Clecoed on , or up in the roof somewhere, and get everything set up
accurately, all controls, wing incidence, flaps etc, in relative ease and
comfort. I know the faktry don't approve it but ai can assure you it works
and saves an awful lot of trouble and strife.
It is easy to tip the bath tub on its side and work inside the gear bay in
comfort.
Look at Chick Pop's design. Brilliant and there must be a few around that
guys have finished with?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
How about an offcut from the firewall SS with the reg. letters marked on in "dots"
with a centre punch?
Duncan Mcf
On Wednesday, October 30, 2002 7:46 AM, Michael Parkin [SMTP:Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com]
wrote:
> Does anyone have a source for the stainless steel a/c no/Registration plate required
by the PFA.
>
> regards,
>
> Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
>
> mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BlueMountain Was links |
I ordered a custom EFS lite for my Mono wheel; 5 inch detached screen,
terrain imaging, compass, G meter, RS232 output, along with all the standard
stuff. I'm thinking about moving it up and forward on my panel. A 1/2 to 3/4
or so bump on top of the panel and the screen mounted up high in the bump.
This would do two things; make the jump from inside to outside the plane as
quick as possible. My almost HUD. Also it would give me most of the lower
panel space back. With the custom screen I can mount the "box" up to 30
inches away.
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
(I'm not a pilot, nor do I play one on TV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | LZ - First Flight!! |
Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yuuuuussss!!!
Stardate 1431 UTC, 31 Oct 2002.
The "Pocket Rocket" lauched on its first flight, at the helm - Andy Draper.
Second sortie with a willing observer - what a superb (it was better than superb,
but I would get boring.) little a/c. It makes all those winter evenings in
rubber gloves seem worthwhile - almost.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: G-JULZ - First Flight!! |
Congratulations! Mike.
Good to have shared your frustrations during your build.
Wishing you and Julie good health and happy hours flying in it.
Best regards
Bob & Jan Harrison. G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: G-JULZ - First Flight!!
Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yuuuuussss!!!
Stardate 1431 UTC, 31 Oct 2002.
The "Pocket Rocket" lauched on its first flight, at the helm - Andy Draper.
Second sortie with a willing observer - what a superb (it was better than
superb, but I would get boring.) little a/c. It makes all those winter
evenings in rubber gloves seem worthwhile - almost.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
1 valid command processed; it was successful.
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 20:21:15 GMT
Subject: Majordomo results: archive-get-immediate forum 200211
From: majordomo-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
>>>> archive-get-immediate forum 200211
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | johnwigney(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: G-JULZ - First Flight!! |
Congratulations Mike. I wish you many smooth landings. ENJOY & HAVE FUN, it's a
great plane.
Cheers, John
N262WF
> Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yuuuuussss!!!
>
> Stardate 1431 UTC, 31 Oct 2002.
>
> The "Pocket Rocket" lauched on its first flight, at the helm - Andy Draper.
>
> Second sortie with a willing observer - what a superb (it was better than
> superb, but I would get boring.) little a/c. It makes all those winter evenings
> in rubber gloves seem worthwhile - almost.
>
> regards,
>
> Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
>
> mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Bell" <billandsue(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Web Site links |
Jeremy,
Do you still have a surplus of the empty mastic tubes? that sounds like an
ideal soloution to applying redux- and one I hadn't thought of.
If you do still have some we would be delighted to buy some of your
surplus-just give us a ring.
We are past Oxford quite often so I imagine pickig them upwould not be a
problem.
We like the idea of a database of suppliers- that would help us all.
As for Acetone- we last bought some from Matrix mouldings in east Bristol-
not particularly close to you but they have quite a lot of glasfibre stuff
and will do mail order. I think we paid 10 +VAT for 5 litres Their phone is
0117 9715 145.
(I should extoll the virtues of using hot vinegar to clean up- it is really
quite effective, not nearly so toxic, and sold in every sainsburys!)
Our Syringes came free from the local chemist- actually quite few chemists
virtually threw us out of the shop just for asking for syinges!- our local
chemist gave us a carrier bag full along with leatlets on safe injecting and
was quite grumpy until we explained what we wanted tham for. There was still
no charge just a donation into his charity box, I daresay you will get the
same response if you ask round for which chemists supply the local addicts.
Regards
Bill & Sue
01727 858698
(St Albans, Herts)
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
Subject: Re: Web Site links
Ray,
There is such a beast (courtesy of Andrew Sarangan), as well as a list of
FAQs that are very helpful to builders. Links to both are on the Club web
site at www.europaclub.org.uk - follow the link to the Forum page.
The Club also has an excellent booklet gathering together the best hints and
tips, compiled by Dave Watts, with entries coming from the Forum, the
factory newsletter, and the Club magazine "Europa Flyer". As a new builder 6
months ago, I found it very useful indeed - it flagged some difficulties I
wouldn't have known to look for a solution for until too late!
One of the most time-consuming problems I had initially was finding
suppliers for all the little extras - acetone, mask and filters, Tyvek paper
overalls, paper roll, syringes, etc. I'm putting my UK list of these up on
the Club site ASAP, and hope those in other countries will respond to my
call and help out with their lists.
The two real pains to date have been acetone - in the UK most suppliers
won't sell to individuals because they perceive a liability risk - and empty
mastic/caulking tubes for the big Redux jobs. I spent 3 hours the other day
just sourcing the tubes (and they had a minimum order size of GBP20, so if
anyone in the Oxfordshire area needs some, get in touch!).
Regards,
Jeremy
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Web Site links
Jeremy:
On the note of reducing the "has anyone done ..." questions, I'm
a soon-to-be new builder and really enjoy the obvious utility of this
forum. But I'm hoping there is a searchable database of previous
questions that I can interrogate in the attempt to minimize the dumb
questions I'm likely to ask. Any suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
Subject: Web Site links
I'm currently working on the links sections of the Europa Club web site,
and just wanted to put out another appeal for useful links. In
particular, I'd really appreciate any the following:
1) Regulatory bodies (the CAAs, EAAs, FAAs, and JAAs of this world)
2) Good suppliers (if possible, please include a couple of sentences
about why you think they should be on the site - I'd like to include
these recommendations with the links)
3) Mods - I've had no details of any individual (i.e. not Factory or
Club) mods yet, and I'm sure we all remember what it was like when we
started building and had no idea of what were good mods to include, and
why. Please help your fellow Europa builders by putting forward details
of your mods as examples to follow. We might even manage to reduce the
number of 'has anyone done....' emails on the Forum!
4) Airfields - know any Europa-friendly airfields?
I know I said this is a links section, but actually I am including some
useful suppliers that don't have web sites, but which I have been lucky
enough to discover (for example, I found an organisation that does
acetone at a very competitive price and delivers to my door for free -
although they don't have a web site, it's worth other UK-based Europa
builders knowing about them). So if you know some good suppliers, even
if it's just a local one-man-band who does upholstery, or
aviation-standard welding, please let me have details, wherever you are
in the world.
I'm particularly keen to get some non-UK links - being UK-based, most of
the suppliers and airfields I know about are in this country, and I need
help making this site as useful as possible to our non-UK builders and
fliers. So please, whether you are in the Americas, the Antipodes, or
'on the Continent', get in touch!
Thanks for all your help.
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Europa Club Webmaster
Europa XS monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel removal |
Simon,
Thanks for the info. Got the panel out no problem and took me about 20
minutes although I did upset the wife as she had to miss coronation street
to help me guide it out. Funny enough it didn't appear close to the
windscreen at all. The builder had done a great job and used a combination
of various 5 pin din and cannon plugs as well as a couple of those big metal
avionics plugs (forgot the names of them! but we used them all the time on
comms kit when I was in the RAF) I guess there are around 15 ish plugs all
together. The throttle carb heat, mix and primer were all on a panel that
just stayed in place. The pump and mags are on a very cool roof panel and
hence were not affected.
Regards
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Panel removal
I forgot to mention that the ignition switch/fuel boost button are
mounted on a panel similar to the throttle etc. controls. There should
be four small bolts fixating the plate to the panel. These need to be
removed before you take the panel out or you may break the cable from
the ignition panel.
Removing the panel is a one man job: replacing it two. Also as soon as
the panel starts to come out place padding on the top edge otherwise
you'll easily scratch the inside of the screen.
Simon Longstaff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Web Site links |
| From: | "David Glauser" <david.glauser(at)xpsystems.com> |
Empty tubes like that can be purchased from McMaster-Carr in the US (http://www.mcmaster.com).
A good source for larger syringes is your local veterinarian or feed and tack store.
David
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Web Site links
Jeremy,
Do you still have a surplus of the empty mastic tubes? that sounds like an
ideal soloution to applying redux- and one I hadn't thought of.
If you do still have some we would be delighted to buy some of your
surplus-just give us a ring.
We are past Oxford quite often so I imagine pickig them upwould not be a
problem.
We like the idea of a database of suppliers- that would help us all.
As for Acetone- we last bought some from Matrix mouldings in east Bristol-
not particularly close to you but they have quite a lot of glasfibre stuff
and will do mail order. I think we paid 10 +VAT for 5 litres Their phone is
0117 9715 145.
(I should extoll the virtues of using hot vinegar to clean up- it is really
quite effective, not nearly so toxic, and sold in every sainsburys!)
Our Syringes came free from the local chemist- actually quite few chemists
virtually threw us out of the shop just for asking for syinges!- our local
chemist gave us a carrier bag full along with leatlets on safe injecting and
was quite grumpy until we explained what we wanted tham for. There was still
no charge just a donation into his charity box, I daresay you will get the
same response if you ask round for which chemists supply the local addicts.
Regards
Bill & Sue
01727 858698
(St Albans, Herts)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Glauser" <david.glauser(at)xpsystems.com> |
Not exactly on topic, but an interesting picture of Europa with freckles:
http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
| Subject: | Re: Web Site links |
Another trick is to utilize a heavy duty tall 'parts type' plastic bag, with one
bottom corner cut off. Load the bag with Redux, hold the bag's open end closed
with one hand and squeeze the bag with the other - a al a bakery icing bag.
Another trick - if you really need to force the adhesive into a tight area -
e.g. you notice incomplete fill through the mating surface - use a new small
cartgidge type grease gun and either clean out thoroughly a cartridge, or just
fill the empty gun with redux. (Which will obviously become disposable) Drill
a
hole through one of the two pieces being bonded, place a grommet over the hole
between the grease gun tip and the surface, and pump the adhesive into the void.
Obviously, cleanliness is critical and you can't use enough MEK to get things
clean before you start - but switch to alchol when you clean the gun's rubber
plunger/seal.
Cleve Lee
A198 MonoXS Jabiru 3300
>
> Empty tubes like that can be purchased from McMaster-Carr in the US
> (http://www.mcmaster.com).
>
> A good source for larger syringes is your local veterinarian or feed and tack
> store.
>
> David
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: Re: Web Site links
>
>
> Jeremy,
>
> Do you still have a surplus of the empty mastic tubes? that sounds like an
> ideal soloution to applying redux- and one I hadn't thought of.
> If you do still have some we would be delighted to buy some of your
> surplus-just give us a ring.
> We are past Oxford quite often so I imagine pickig them upwould not be a
> problem.
>
>
> We like the idea of a database of suppliers- that would help us all.
>
> As for Acetone- we last bought some from Matrix mouldings in east Bristol-
> not particularly close to you but they have quite a lot of glasfibre stuff
> and will do mail order. I think we paid 10 +VAT for 5 litres Their phone is
> 0117 9715 145.
> (I should extoll the virtues of using hot vinegar to clean up- it is really
> quite effective, not nearly so toxic, and sold in every sainsburys!)
>
> Our Syringes came free from the local chemist- actually quite few chemists
> virtually threw us out of the shop just for asking for syinges!- our local
> chemist gave us a carrier bag full along with leatlets on safe injecting and
> was quite grumpy until we explained what we wanted tham for. There was still
> no charge just a donation into his charity box, I daresay you will get the
> same response if you ask round for which chemists supply the local addicts.
>
> Regards
>
> Bill & Sue
>
>
> 01727 858698
> (St Albans, Herts)
>
> The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Message text written by Graham Singleton
>>When I press it it freezes the device in the last position as it should.
>I have got into the habit of switching it off to transmit.
>
>Barry Tennant
Maybe a diode in the disable line might fix that? Just a guess.
Graham
<
I have only just started reading this thread however I thought this aspect
was covered in the assembly manual using pin 7 on the back of the turn
coordinator in conjunction with the PTT switch and a diode to the PTT
connection on the VHF radio. Although I have wired mine that way I have not
had a chance to check it out due to a gyro failure after only 10 hours
flying. I have tried contacting Navaid to arrange repair on several
occasions and got nowhere so today I finally repaired it myself. The pivot
pin had moved allowing the gyro to fall off its pivot tearing the power
wires to the gyro. Fortunately I managed to fix this after 2 hours work. I
will report back when I get a chance to try it out in the air (the UK
weather is well into winter mode as I write this).
Incidently I also had to send the servo unit back before installation due
to the gears dragging when the unit was unpowered. Before doing so I found
some poorly soldered joints inside the servo unit. All this indicates that
the quality control is not what it might be.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by "Michael Parkin"
>Does anyone have a source for the stainless steel a/c no/Registration
plate required by the PFA.
<
If you use Graham Singleton's composite firewall (which I thoroughly
recommend) you will have 2 spare sheets of SS sheeting which will provide
more than enough to make several reg plates. If not I can let you have an
offcut from one of mine if required.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)islandtelecom.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: SUBARU Low RPM rough running |
Gary,
Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your experiences. I've got the
plane at home at the moment to carry out a few jobs on it and so far haven't
got around to investigating this yet other than having removed the plugs and
seeing the engine is running very rich. In the 50 odd hours ive done (since
getting the machine which has 200 ish hours on the engine)so far the plugs
have a nice tan colour which previously suggested I had the right leaning
technique. So either there is a problem or possibly I have allowed it to run
too rich for too long. My engine is set up to be rich and does need leaning
even on the ground. I have flown one other Subaru and that was exactly the
same so I believed this is the norm? I will carry out the test you suggest
thanks and let you know.
Are you on a mono or tri?
I have a tri and a VP prop and its a lovely smooth engine and gives me 110
kts at 16 litres per hour at 3300 RPM. Some photos and info at
www.ukmicrolights.com
Regards
Kev T
PS I'm up for creating a Subaru owners database/newsletter if your
interested? Anyone else up for it?
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Low RPM rough running
Kevin,
I recently had a similar problem whilst ground running my Subaru. I
suspected the excess fuel being a fault in the diaphragm so switched
Elisions with my spare Subaru engine. Fault cleared so I opened the
diaphragm housing to find a waxy residue causing the ball valve to stick in
the open position, the one the diaphragm drives.You can check for this fault
easily by removing the air filter box and running the pump with the mixture
rich and throttle closed engine stopped . There should be no fuel exiting
the meter needle in the throttle body. Run it and cycle the throttle whilst
an observer looks for any fuel excess. If this is your problem you will see
the fuel squirting out of the throttle body venturi against the incoming air
whilst at idle. Without the air filter housing it may even keep running in
this config but with air filter it will rich cut. If you blow through a
narrow tube into the small hole on the right of the throttle venturi
casting, this will open the diaphragm and allow fuel through without running
the engine. If fuel flows after your stop blowing, then that's your problem
and you will have to open the sealed diaphragm housing voiding the warranty
if it is still valid to fix it here or send it back to Ellison. If you get
it to me I will fix it for you providing the above symptoms agree. Let me
know your findings regardless.
Gary McKirdy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk>
Subject: Low RPM rough running
> Folks,
>
> I had a intermittent problem today with rough running at low rpm 2500-3000
> rpm on my Subaru. It cleared by leaning the engine then going back to
fully
> rich was then OK again apart from once or twice but generally I was able
to
> replicate it enough times to confirm leaning did solve the problem. The
> first time I noticed it was immediately on start up from cold on the first
> run of the day, it got rough I leaned it then put it back to fully rich
and
> it stopped! I'm thinking along the lines that it may be possibly plug
> fouling or just somehow the slow running jet is too rich? I haven't had
the
> plugs out yet but will next time I'm at the field. I incidentally it does
> run rich and always has done other Subaru owner I have spoken to have
always
> leaned even on the ground, to assist in avoiding fouling.
>
> Its been as sweet as a nut since I got it and I've done 50 hours in the
last
> 3 months and never seen a suggestion of this before. Plugs are only about
> 15-20 hours old.
>
> Any suggestions appreciated (other than put a 912 in which I'm sure some
of
> you are muttering under your breath right now)
>
> Kev T
> ---
> Version: 6.0.400 / Virus Database: 226 - Release Date: 09/10/02
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
The Tru-Trak Digitrak system is looking more and more attractive!!
Duncan mcf
On Friday, November 01, 2002 10:42 PM, Nigel Charles [SMTP:72016.3721(at)compuserve.com]
wrote:
> Message text written by Graham Singleton
> >>When I press it it freezes the device in the last position as it should.
> >I have got into the habit of switching it off to transmit.
> >
> >Barry Tennant
>
> Maybe a diode in the disable line might fix that? Just a guess.
> Graham
> <
>
> I have only just started reading this thread however I thought this aspect
> was covered in the assembly manual using pin 7 on the back of the turn
> coordinator in conjunction with the PTT switch and a diode to the PTT
> connection on the VHF radio. Although I have wired mine that way I have not
> had a chance to check it out due to a gyro failure after only 10 hours
> flying. I have tried contacting Navaid to arrange repair on several
> occasions and got nowhere so today I finally repaired it myself. The pivot
> pin had moved allowing the gyro to fall off its pivot tearing the power
> wires to the gyro. Fortunately I managed to fix this after 2 hours work. I
> will report back when I get a chance to try it out in the air (the UK
> weather is well into winter mode as I write this).
>
> Incidently I also had to send the servo unit back before installation due
> to the gears dragging when the unit was unpowered. Before doing so I found
> some poorly soldered joints inside the servo unit. All this indicates that
> the quality control is not what it might be.
>
> Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
I returned from USA to find 350 (ish) forum messages, and am only just catching
up with the backlog of reading them.
I have been in touch with Brien within the last 2 months. He is indeed working
some of the time for Wilksch but when not with them he is now at Finmere. His
mobile should contact him; I will be trying him again any day now, because he
has to do a rectification job for me - as he knows! (KX 125, for those who saw
the exchanges some months ago).
David
G-BZAM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Message text written by McFadyean
>The Tru-Trak Digitrak system is looking more and more attractive!!
<
Sounds good to me too. Shame it wasn't available 4 years ago.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit |
Jeremy
Sorry for the delay in replying - just back from mountain niking over the
Andes. I have a set Whelen wing tip nav strobes with wiring running through
perminantly installed conduit in an XS wing. In addition I have run the same
conduit for the pitot tubing should it require replacement. Contact me off
list if you want details / pics. It is PFA approved.
Regards
Paul Stewart
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeremy Davey <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Wing conduit
> Has anyone in the UK on this list got an approved PFA mod for wing
conduits
> (for wing-tip lights, outrigger position microswitches, and landing light)
> that they would be prepared to let me use? Avoiding reinventing the wheel
> would be nice!
>
> Thanks and regards,
> Jeremy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
... could you give a web address for Tru-Trak Digitrak?
Erich, still buildung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
Regards,
Jeremy
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
... could you give a web address for Tru-Trak Digitrak?
Erich, still buildung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
TruTrac website: http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
I was going to go with the digiflight 250, but opted
for the bluemountian EFIS/One and will spring for the
A/P servos.
I will be building an XS mono-wheel standard wing (if
the container ever leaves the UK - they are waiting for
the fast build kits) and will modify the panel for the
EFIS/One by moving out the switch panel to meet the
instrument panel and install all of my switches at the
bottom of the radio stack. I have done several
configuration mock-ups with epanelbuilder.com
Dean
kit A259 (if it ever arrives)
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Eupa91(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from
Radio)
... could you give a web address for Tru-Trak Digitrak?
Erich, still buildung
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
Hi Erich,http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/overview.html, Kevin
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Eupa91(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
... could you give a web address for Tru-Trak Digitrak?
Erich, still buildung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)attbi.com> |
----- Original Message ----- by moving out the switch panel to meet the
> instrument panel and install all of my switches at the
> bottom of the radio stack. I have done several
> configuration mock-ups with epanelbuilder.com
>
> Dean
>
> kit A259 (if it ever arrives)
Dean
Be aware of the clearance between the switch panel to the control stick
grip. I made a similar mod and has to curve it a bit. Mine looks good now.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. R. Jones" <jronjones(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brien Nelson |
David,
Do it yourself!
It took me only about 2 hours to remove my entire panel and fit the link
between the two terminals and "Bingo" my VOR works like a dream!
Got totally fed up waiting for Brien to 'phone me back.
If you would like some assistance with the job, give me a shout.
Regards,
Ron Jones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | wheel landing gear upstop |
There have been some recent submissions about adding an upstop for the
monowheel swing arm. Basically bonding/bolting aluminum angle to the
inside of the wheel well. While working at getting things installed in
the wheel well recently I believe I have come up with a slicker way to
accomplish the same objective. The wheel well stops are subject to
shearing stresses during impact. My installation experiences compressive
stresses only.I have installed some "Tufnol" blocks on/in the upper side
of the web of the swing arm. These are bolted in place and offer a
degree of adjustability by very slightly varing their thickness.You
don't have to bond anything in place or change positioning of drilled
holes. I won't have any history with this until the plane gets up, but
it looks pretty straight forward. If I have problems with premature wear
or deformation of the blocks they can be widened or made into one piece
for increased bearing surface. I used the phenolic material instead of
something metallic to ensure that the stop would be damaged before the
aircraft componentry.I have posted photosof this installation on Bob
Jacobson's web page atwww.europa-usa.com under modifications.Any
comments or ramblings are welcomeSteveA143Mesa, AZ--- Steve Hagar---
hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
There web site info. is slightly out of date in that the Digitrak (the
"homebuilder" end of their product range) now features GPS steering. It
also seems that a handheld GPS set can be coupled-up direct without the
need for an interface.
Both these statements need confirming.
Duncan McF.
On Saturday, November 02, 2002 7:46 PM, jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
[SMTP:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com] wrote:
> http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
>
> Regards,
> Jeremy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SUBARU Low RPM rough running |
>PS I'm up for creating a Subaru owners database/newsletter if your
>interested? Anyone else up for it?
Kevin - check (on the Club website) the list of Europas with Subaru
engines installed, to see what your potential audience might be. Of
ocurse, there are Subarus installed on other designs too - in fact
lists (where the Jabiru engines list lives) to see if there is also a
Subaru list there. While talking about e-mail lists, I recently heard
on the Jabiru list about a Quickie list (I guess Q2s and Q200s are
allowed too) but didn't hear where it's hosted. I guess Gary will
know about that one already! There's a small amount of Subaru chat in
the EAA Experimenter mag, but most engine stuff there seems to be
about 2-strokes or VW conversions.
Anyhoo, a data resource and discussion forum for a particular engine
type is to be welcomed. Please let us know if you start something
yourself, or if you find an existing community.
regards
Rowland
| PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
| Europa builder #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
>Further to my recent enquiry re instruments, I may be taking a trip to
Colorado around Christmas, probably landing at Denver and driving through
Breckenridge. I wondered if anyone could recommend a supplier of
instruments & avionics in that area?
Richard Iddon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david.hillam(at)cwctv.net |
--1036278188519
Have a look at www.labelsnsigns.co.uk. They did a number of placards etc of several types (including engraving) for me and I found them very satisfactory.
David Hillam
David Hillam
wrote:
--1036278188519
From: "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Placard
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 07:46:12 -0000
Does anyone have a source for the stainless steel a/c no/Registration plate required
by the PFA.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
--1036278188519--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instruments (again) |
| From: | Paul Atkinson <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
Richard
I cant recommend anyone there, but what you could do is order what you
want from anywhere in the US and get it delivered to an address you will
be visiting. That way you may avoid paying local state taxes (you will
need to check on that though) and save on carriage costs. It worked for
me on a number of occasions
Paul
ps I didn't really follow this thread but remember some comments about
end user certificates. I had one, but never needed to produce any
evidence of it for personal imports. As long as customs can be convinced
that what you are bringing in will be fixed to an aircraft it will not
incur duty, just VAT :-(
On Sunday, November 3, 2002, at 09:41 am, Richard wrote:
> Further to my recent enquiry re instruments, I may be taking a trip to
> Colorado around Christmas, probably landing at Denver and driving
> through
> Breckenridge. I wondered if anyone could recommend a supplier of
> instruments & avionics in that area?
>
> Richard Iddon.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
Hi Nick:
It is under the articles subheading. Or direct
www.europa-usa.com/upstop.htm
Steve
> [Original Message]
> From: Nick Hammond <Nick.Hammond(at)saabsystems.com.au>
> Date: 11/3/02 5:36:51 AM
> Subject: RE: Monowheel landing gear upstop
>
> Steve,
>
> > I have posted photos=A0of this installation ... > at=A0www.europa-usa.com under modifications.
> I can't find any link to modifications on this page. Do you have a > complete
URL?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Nick
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instruments (again) |
Get an Aircraft Spruce catalog, find out what you want, call for
availability and send it to a local address. You will get a better
selection and price this way. Retail outlets are more expensive and sales
tax will probably be more than shipping.
> [Original Message]
> From: Richard <riddon(at)btinternet.com>
> Date: 11/3/02 2:41:40 AM
> Subject: Instruments (again)
>
> Further to my recent enquiry re instruments, I may be taking a trip to
> Colorado around Christmas, probably landing at Denver and driving through
> Breckenridge. I wondered if anyone could recommend a supplier of
> instruments & avionics in that area?
>
> Richard Iddon.
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
Steve,
The only thing that might be a factor in this upstop arrangement is the
leverage force at those blocks. There will be a considerable compression
force there. I have not done anything with mine except to attach a rubber
block on one side of the gear well out where the gear leg comes closest. It
doesn't seem to be a very large force at that point.
I suppose I missed the problem with this. Are people reporting problems with
the gear going up too far in flight and causing problems? My little rubber
stop experiment is out at the end of the gear, which would experience the
minimum leverage force.
Back to getting ready to paint!
Dave
mini U2
A227
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
I'm no engineer, but IMHO that will not keep the wheel from hitting the top
of the tunnel. That is a LOT of weight and the mechanical advantage
multiplies the pressure. Even a stop out at the wheel axle has to support
the whole 1200+/- pounds. Maybe you will never have to test the system.:-)
Ken Carpenter
N9XS mono
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop
> Hi Nick:
> It is under the articles subheading. Or direct
> www.europa-usa.com/upstop.htm
>
> Steve
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Nick Hammond <Nick.Hammond(at)saabsystems.com.au>
> > Date: 11/3/02 5:36:51 AM
> > Subject: RE: Monowheel landing gear upstop
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > > I have posted photos=A0of this installation ... > > at=A0www.europa-usa.com under modifications.
> > I can't find any link to modifications on this page. Do you have a > > complete
URL?
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Nick
> >
>
>
> --- Steve Hagar
> --- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete McNamara" <m2(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: G-JULZ - First Flight!! |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: G-JULZ - First Flight!!
Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yus! Yuuuuussss!!!
Congrats Mike from M2 - XXV (F) SQN & G-OPRC, the tri-gear parked next to
your new lady love. C U airborne some time soon I hope.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio) |
Hi Duncan
I have installed a DigiTrak in my yet to fly XS mono. The installation
is slick and easy, the unit is amazingly small and light and the servo
appears robust and well made. There is a $150 USD upgrade that allows
the unit to intercept and follow preprogrammed GPS courses. Without the
upgrade, it uses GPS track over the ground or a magnetometer to give it
the course to follow. It appears that any GPS that puts out a RS232
signal can be used.
Tom A079
beecho@pw-x.com
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Navaid (Interference from Radio)
There web site info. is slightly out of date in that the Digitrak (the
"homebuilder" end of their product range) now features GPS steering. It
also seems that a handheld GPS set can be coupled-up direct without the
need for an interface.
Both these statements need confirming.
Duncan McF.
On Saturday, November 02, 2002 7:46 PM, jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
[SMTP:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com] wrote:
> http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
>
> Regards,
> Jeremy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
For what it is worth, I put a foam and BID block on the underside of the
centre of the (XS) tunnel, immediately above the centre of the tyre/tire (!)
It is very effective; ie, when my Inspector asked me to change to a
different tyre (which turned out to be narrower but with a greater rolling
radius), we could not retract the undercarriage. We had to cut a small
amount off the foam block.
David
G-BZAM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instruments (again) |
Richard,
For instruments in the US, the other postings are
right, shop by catalog, have them shipped to your temp
address in Colo., then take them home. Depending on
the size, quantity and value of the items you order,
you may talk the supplier into discounted or free
shipping & insurance.
By federal regulations, there is NO sales tax on items
shipped over state lines to the customer (if the
business has no presence in the "ship to" state), so
the trick is to find a supplier closest to your state
but not in it (to reduce the shipping cost).
Unfortunately for your trip to Colo., most of the big
supply houses are on the West Coast or in Florida.
I live in North Central California (100 miles East of
San Francisco), so that means anything I purchase from
Aircraft Spruce (near San Diego) has shipping AND tax
added (just under 8%). So I shop the ACS catalog
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/main.html and order from
either Chief Avionics http://www.chiefaircraft.com/ or
Pacific-Coast Avionics
http://www.pacific-coast-avionics.com/ since almost any
of the big avionics & supply houses will match any
internet advertised price and these two in Oregon are
about the same shipping distance from me as ACS.
So, shop the internet for best price and contact one of
the big supply houses, have them match prices then
discuss shipping and insurance discount for the size of
the order.
If you do decide to order and have shipped to you,
remember that there can be shipping delays around the
holidays.
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA
kit A259 (if it ever leaves UK)
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Richard
Subject: Instruments (again)
Further to my recent enquiry re instruments, I may be
taking a trip to
Colorado around Christmas, probably landing at Denver
and driving through
Breckenridge. I wondered if anyone could recommend a
supplier of
instruments & avionics in that area?
Richard Iddon.
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>> I'm no engineer, but IMHO that will not keep the wheel from hitting
the top of the tunnel. That is a LOT of weight and the mechanical
advantage multiplies the pressure. Even a stop out at the wheel axle
has to support the whole 1200+/- pounds.
To do the intended job it doesn't have to support the plane, it only has
to stop the overswing when you are retracting the gear. Until I put is a
stop on the side frame I could get the gear to jam in the up position.
It took me a while to work out what was happening as it only started
when I moved the brake block in line with the swing arm.
I found that if I retracted the gear quickly the arm would swing up
slightly higher than level and the brake block would just brush against
the tunnel at the top. It was very easy to pull it down grabbing the end
of the arm but just about impossible to move with the retract lever.
I am going to give Steve's mod a go as it looks like it'll do the job
nicely.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
My thoughts were to keep the LG from bouncing around while in the up
position, something to have the force of the bungies to register against.
A gear up landing is going to give me a lot more problems. 1200 plus pounds
is a pretty conservative estimate as the dynamic force of the airplane
contacting the pavement will undoubtedly be more than 1 g.
Steve
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net>
> Date: 11/3/02 10:34:17 AM
> Subject: Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop
>
> I'm no engineer, but IMHO that will not keep the wheel from hitting the
top
> of the tunnel. That is a LOT of weight and the mechanical advantage
> multiplies the pressure. Even a stop out at the wheel axle has to support
> the whole 1200+/- pounds. Maybe you will never have to test the
system.:-)
> Ken Carpenter
> N9XS mono
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
>
> Subject: Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop
>
>
> > Hi Nick:
> > It is under the articles subheading. Or direct
> > www.europa-usa.com/upstop.htm
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: Nick Hammond <Nick.Hammond(at)saabsystems.com.au>
> > > Date: 11/3/02 5:36:51 AM
> > > Subject: RE: Monowheel landing gear upstop
> > >
> > > Steve,
> > >
> > > > I have posted photos=A0of this installation ... > > > at=A0www.europa-usa.com under modifications.
> > > I can't find any link to modifications on this page. Do you have a > > >
complete URL?
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Nick
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Steve Hagar
> > --- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Emerald Island Flyout |
Whilst stringing together a few ideas for the framework of a good tour of
Ireland, it became obvious that there is a remarkable lack of Europa people
in the Dublin Area.
No one has come up with any suggestions of what to do, or where to go there.
Yet it is said that Dublin is a place we must not miss.
What we need is someone from that area and others who can offer a bit of
local knowledge. such as, which place to stay overnight, what to see, how to
avoid problems, etc..
We would not be looking to put on anyone for hospitality or accommodation.
That would not be fair! But, it would be nice to meet friendly faces, and do
a few Irish things as we potter from place to place. So come on you Irish,
help me out with some more ideas.
We still have at least one spot available in the flyout which will be in
early May 2003.
Best regards Bryan A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
G-LABS, Europa Classic No 49 (building commenced in February 1994),
eventually flew for the first time today at Turweston Aerodrome.
Mike Dolphin was at the controls and after a morning of taxying and minor
ajustments, took off and climbed to 2000 ft for a half hour initial
assesment sortie.
Weather conditions not ideal but handling (ground and air) were excellent
and temperatures within limits.
Now all we need is a spell of decent weather to complete the test flying.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: G-LABS First Flight |
Congratulations! Carl
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: G-LABS First Flight
G-LABS, Europa Classic No 49 (building commenced in February 1994),
eventually flew for the first time today at Turweston Aerodrome.
Mike Dolphin was at the controls and after a morning of taxying and minor
ajustments, took off and climbed to 2000 ft for a half hour initial
assesment sortie.
Weather conditions not ideal but handling (ground and air) were excellent
and temperatures within limits.
Now all we need is a spell of decent weather to complete the test flying.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: SUBARU Low RPM rough running |
There used to be a Subaru forum. it was populated by folks looking at
various conversions. Few were actually flying a conversion and the S/N
ratio was appalling!!
The address used to be
airsoob(at)interstice.com
Duncan McF
On Saturday, November 02, 2002 11:06 PM, Rowland & Wilma Carson
[SMTP:rowil(at)clara.net] wrote:
>
> >PS I'm up for creating a Subaru owners database/newsletter if your
> >interested? Anyone else up for it?
>
> Kevin - check (on the Club website) the list of Europas with Subaru
> engines installed, to see what your potential audience might be. Of
> ocurse, there are Subarus installed on other designs too - in fact
> lists (where the Jabiru engines list lives) to see if there is also a
> Subaru list there. While talking about e-mail lists, I recently heard
> on the Jabiru list about a Quickie list (I guess Q2s and Q200s are
> allowed too) but didn't hear where it's hosted. I guess Gary will
> know about that one already! There's a small amount of Subaru chat in
> the EAA Experimenter mag, but most engine stuff there seems to be
> about 2-strokes or VW conversions.
>
> Anyhoo, a data resource and discussion forum for a particular engine
> type is to be welcomed. Please let us know if you start something
> yourself, or if you find an existing community.
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
>
> | PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
> | Europa builder #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
>I suppose I missed the problem with this. Are people reporting problems with
>the gear going up too far in flight and causing problems? My little rubber
>stop experiment is out at the end of the gear, which would experience the
>minimum leverage force.
>Dave
>mini U2
Just make sure there is no friction tending to hold the gear up. You depend
on gravity to get the gear started down, because there is NO leverage to
get it moving from the retract lever when in the up position. Look at the
geometry.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McKirdy" <garymckirdy(at)gloverb.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: SUBARU Low RPM rough running |
Kevin,
Mine is a mono about to fly again having been re-kitted!
It has done the same number of hours as yours and I am confident that your
problem will require the solution suggested. By the way I too am impressed
with this engine, its throttle response and vibration level are more akin to
an electric motor, and you don't have to send it back to Austria every
thousand hours! It got some bad press through poor accessory installation
and instructions but the new output module for the re-drive seems to have
cured some early failures.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)islandtelecom.co.uk>
Subject: Re: SUBARU Low RPM rough running
> Gary,
>
> Thanks for taking the time to reply and share your experiences. I've got
the
> plane at home at the moment to carry out a few jobs on it and so far
haven't
> got around to investigating this yet other than having removed the plugs
and
> seeing the engine is running very rich. In the 50 odd hours ive done
(since
> getting the machine which has 200 ish hours on the engine)so far the plugs
> have a nice tan colour which previously suggested I had the right leaning
> technique. So either there is a problem or possibly I have allowed it to
run
> too rich for too long. My engine is set up to be rich and does need
leaning
> even on the ground. I have flown one other Subaru and that was exactly the
> same so I believed this is the norm? I will carry out the test you suggest
> thanks and let you know.
>
> Are you on a mono or tri?
>
> I have a tri and a VP prop and its a lovely smooth engine and gives me 110
> kts at 16 litres per hour at 3300 RPM. Some photos and info at
> www.ukmicrolights.com
>
> Regards
>
> Kev T
> PS I'm up for creating a Subaru owners database/newsletter if your
> interested? Anyone else up for it?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Re: Low RPM rough running
>
>
> Kevin,
> I recently had a similar problem whilst ground running my Subaru. I
> suspected the excess fuel being a fault in the diaphragm so switched
> Elisions with my spare Subaru engine. Fault cleared so I opened the
> diaphragm housing to find a waxy residue causing the ball valve to stick
in
> the open position, the one the diaphragm drives.You can check for this
fault
> easily by removing the air filter box and running the pump with the
mixture
> rich and throttle closed engine stopped . There should be no fuel exiting
> the meter needle in the throttle body. Run it and cycle the throttle
whilst
> an observer looks for any fuel excess. If this is your problem you will
see
> the fuel squirting out of the throttle body venturi against the incoming
air
> whilst at idle. Without the air filter housing it may even keep running in
> this config but with air filter it will rich cut. If you blow through a
> narrow tube into the small hole on the right of the throttle venturi
> casting, this will open the diaphragm and allow fuel through without
running
> the engine. If fuel flows after your stop blowing, then that's your
problem
> and you will have to open the sealed diaphragm housing voiding the
warranty
> if it is still valid to fix it here or send it back to Ellison. If you get
> it to me I will fix it for you providing the above symptoms agree. Let me
> know your findings regardless.
>
> Gary McKirdy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk>
> Subject: Low RPM rough running
>
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > I had a intermittent problem today with rough running at low rpm
2500-3000
> > rpm on my Subaru. It cleared by leaning the engine then going back to
> fully
> > rich was then OK again apart from once or twice but generally I was able
> to
> > replicate it enough times to confirm leaning did solve the problem. The
> > first time I noticed it was immediately on start up from cold on the
first
> > run of the day, it got rough I leaned it then put it back to fully rich
> and
> > it stopped! I'm thinking along the lines that it may be possibly plug
> > fouling or just somehow the slow running jet is too rich? I haven't had
> the
> > plugs out yet but will next time I'm at the field. I incidentally it
does
> > run rich and always has done other Subaru owner I have spoken to have
> always
> > leaned even on the ground, to assist in avoiding fouling.
> >
> > Its been as sweet as a nut since I got it and I've done 50 hours in the
> last
> > 3 months and never seen a suggestion of this before. Plugs are only
about
> > 15-20 hours old.
> >
> > Any suggestions appreciated (other than put a 912 in which I'm sure some
> of
> > you are muttering under your breath right now)
> >
> > Kev T
> > ---
> > Version: 6.0.400 / Virus Database: 226 - Release Date: 09/10/02
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.400 / Virus Database: 226 - Release Date: 09/10/02
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.400 / Virus Database: 226 - Release Date: 09/10/02
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McKirdy" <garymckirdy(at)gloverb.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: SUBARU Low RPM rough running |
Rowland ,
The Quickie site is available by sending an e-mail with subscribe in the
title to Q-LIST(at)yahoogroups.com. I don't think you will find many Quickie
pilots wanting to experiment with different engines though and that includes
newfangled Jabiru, Rotax 4 strokes and Subaru implants. Not until they give
aircraft priority in use of motorways after engine failure! I will stick to
the trusty VW with millions of hours and all known failure modes understood
especially since failure of a VW hardly ever stops it producing enough power
to get you down safe, in one case locally even when the crankshaft was
snapped in two! For me better the devil you know since it would be hard to
keep all the bits of a Quickie in one field if it ever truly goes quiet up
front and I have 1000hrs cross country gliding as preparation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland & Wilma Carson" <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: Re: SUBARU Low RPM rough running
>
> >PS I'm up for creating a Subaru owners database/newsletter if your
> >interested? Anyone else up for it?
>
> Kevin - check (on the Club website) the list of Europas with Subaru
> engines installed, to see what your potential audience might be. Of
> ocurse, there are Subarus installed on other designs too - in fact
> lists (where the Jabiru engines list lives) to see if there is also a
> Subaru list there. While talking about e-mail lists, I recently heard
> on the Jabiru list about a Quickie list (I guess Q2s and Q200s are
> allowed too) but didn't hear where it's hosted. I guess Gary will
> know about that one already! There's a small amount of Subaru chat in
> the EAA Experimenter mag, but most engine stuff there seems to be
> about 2-strokes or VW conversions.
>
> Anyhoo, a data resource and discussion forum for a particular engine
> type is to be welcomed. Please let us know if you start something
> yourself, or if you find an existing community.
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
>
> | PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
> | Europa builder #435 G-ROWI e-mail
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hedleybrown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
Did this all start with the tyre catching on someone's brake master
cylinder? I noticed this during building and simply moved the master cyl out
an inch or two with suitable repair and fortification of the 'tunnel' -
seemed the logical thing to do. What's the problem?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop
> >I suppose I missed the problem with this. Are people reporting problems
with
> >the gear going up too far in flight and causing problems? My little
rubber
> >stop experiment is out at the end of the gear, which would experience the
> >minimum leverage force.
> >Dave
> >mini U2
>
> Just make sure there is no friction tending to hold the gear up. You
depend
> on gravity to get the gear started down, because there is NO leverage to
> get it moving from the retract lever when in the up position. Look at the
> geometry.
> Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
>
>I found that if I retracted the gear quickly the arm would swing up
>slightly higher than level and the brake block would just brush against
>the tunnel at the top. It was very easy to pull it down grabbing the end
>of the arm but just about impossible to move with the retract lever.
>
>I am going to give Steve's mod a go as it looks like it'll do the job
>nicely.
>
>Tony
That's what I was trying to explain. Bit too cryptic again, sorry guys.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: The Emerald Island Flyout |
>No one has come up with any suggestions of what to do, or where to go there.
>Yet it is said that Dublin is a place we must not miss.
>Best regards Bryan A
You might contact some of my Long EZ friends. Dave Ryan lives very near
Dublin and might be able to offer some advice. I'll see if I can contact
him. (no email address)
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
>Did this all start with the tyre catching on someone's brake master
>cylinder? I noticed this during building and simply moved the master cyl out
>an inch or two with suitable repair and fortification of the 'tunnel' -
>seemed the logical thing to do. What's the problem?
Various problems.
When the brake pads wear, the calliper moves outboard and eventually
can/might start to rub on the side of the tunnel. If it causes enough
friction to stick in the up position it will take a real big heave to get
it started down. In fact a bit of extra +ve G would probably be more
effective than bending the retract lever.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Dieseling |
Garry, I am just back from 3 weeks abroad so you may have sorted your
problem by now, but if not I would look carefully at the ignition circuits.
While still test flying my 914 mono 404 I found that I could not switch off.
The problem was intermittent and seemed to be worse when the engine was
thoroughly hot. The most helpful suggestions I got were: Firstly to get a
hand held radio with the squelch turned up so that you can hear igniton
interference, then switch off the mag circuits to see whether the
interference continued. For me it did confirming that I had a problem in the
mag grounding. Electrical testing of these circuits showed nothing wrong but
the second suggestion was from someone who had experienced the same problem
and cured it by hard wiring the mag leads where the push in bullet
connectors are situated just on top of the engine . I did this and have been
happily flying ever since without a hint of any further trouble. Cheers,
David Joyce G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2 <garrys(at)att.com>
Subject: Rotax 914 Dieseling
> Just recently, after 220 hours of operation, my Rotax 914 began
"dieseling" after shut down. Never happened before, but now does it every
time. I know that dieseling is caused by a "hot spot" somewhere in the
combustion chambers, but where and why escapes me. I've pulled the spark
plugs and aside from having some gray lead deposits on them, they look fine.
I plan to replace the plugs, but doubt that they are the cause.
Interestingly, the dieseling doesn't require a really hot engine. A few
days ago I started the engine and taxied 100 yards to the fuel pumps. At
shut down the engine dieseled.........and we know the engine hadn't yet even
warmed up. I've checked the mag grounding connections, and they work fine.
It is definitely a dieseling condition. Anyone out there experienced this
and what conclusions did you reach?
>
> Garry V. Stout
>
> District Manager, AT&T Business Services
> Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
>
> *****Please note new e-mail address******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
I've commissioned my Flatbed Trailer to be modified to take a Trigear
with Wings etc.
It already can carry Fuselage on 'gear', just needed Wing Stands.
When completed it will retain double axle with Tailgate ramp for
loading and carrying Aircraft nose forward.
The Nose Wheel and Mains will fit into slots to prevent forward
movement. It has a Manual Winch.
I've decided not to 'Tow and Fly' and therefore will rarely use it. If
anyone is interested in 'taking it off my hands' please e-mail 'off
forum' at gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk
Regards
Gerry
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
In a message dated 11/4/2002 12:31:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk writes:
> >I suppose I missed the problem with this. Are people reporting problems
> with
> >the gear going up too far in flight and causing problems? My little rubber
> >stop experiment is out at the end of the gear, which would experience the
> >minimum leverage force.
> >Dave
> >mini U2
>
> Just make sure there is no friction tending to hold the gear up. You depend
>
> on gravity to get the gear started down, because there is NO leverage to
> get it moving from the retract lever when in the up position. Look at the
> geometry.
> Graham
>
I did also move the brake master cylinder over and modify the tunnel to clear
the gear. As far as I can tell, there is no friction in the gear system. I
haven't checked this in flight, however. That will hopefully be in about a
month!
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Emerald Island Flyout |
Thanks Graham,
Your help would be appreciated. How you doin'?
Best regards Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Protocol - and G-LABS first flight |
At the risk of possibly upsetting people, or at best appearing a computer
illiterate (which I readily accept) could I suggest that people affix an
automatically generated 'signature' to their e-mails which include their
personal e-mail address.
This would enable a direct reply when it is not necessary to communicate to
the whole forum.
I dare say that people better informed will come up with very worthy reasons
why this is not a good idea - the Great Unwashed getting hold of their
personal addresses, etc. - but, having said that.........
Congratulations Carl and Dot. I know you have had a number of hiccups along
the way, what with work and the rest, and I am so pleased to hear that your
machine has at last taken to the air.
Where are you basing it and I would like to drop in and 'chew the cud' with
you sometime.
Peter
peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus for all known viruses.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: G-LABS First Flight
G-LABS, Europa Classic No 49 (building commenced in February 1994),
eventually flew for the first time today at Turweston Aerodrome.
Mike Dolphin was at the controls and after a morning of taxying and minor
ajustments, took off and climbed to 2000 ft for a half hour initial
assesment sortie.
Weather conditions not ideal but handling (ground and air) were excellent
and temperatures within limits.
Now all we need is a spell of decent weather to complete the test flying.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
THE REASON I THINK BUILDERS NEED A STOP, AND IT IS NOT IN THE BUILDERS MANUAL?,
IS THAT THEY HAVE THEIR TENSION ON THE BUNGEE TOO HIGH. I REMEMBER A BUILDER
SAYING HE COULD RAISE HIS GEAR WITH HIS FINGER, AND THAT IS TO MUCH. THERE
SHOULD BE SOME EFFORT REQUIRED TO BOTH RAISE THE U/C AND LOWER IT. GRAHAM
SINGLETON SAID THAT THE TENSION SHOULD BE ENOUGH SO THAT IF YOU LET THE LEVER
GO FROM THE UP POSITION, IT SHOULD GO TO HALF WAY DOWN THE SLOT. . AT THE MOMENT
MINE TAKES A LITTLE EFFORT TO SECURE UP, AND A LITTLE EFFORT TO SECURE DOWN, NOT
MUCH, BUT AT LEAST YOU CAN FEEL THE RESISTANCE.
THE POSITION OF THE BRAKE CALIPER WAS SHIFTED 90 DEGREES? I THINK AS RECOMMENDED
FROM THE COMPANY TO AVOID ANY CONTACT WITH THE TUNNEL WALL. IF YOU HAVE THE U/C
LANDING FRAME POSITIONED CORRECTLY, YOU SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THE
ALIGNMENT AND ALSO THE ENGINE MOUNTING ALIGNMENT.
CHEERS,
Tim
hedleybrown wrote:
> Did this all start with the tyre catching on someone's brake master
> cylinder? I noticed this during building and simply moved the master cyl out
> an inch or two with suitable repair and fortification of the 'tunnel' -
> seemed the logical thing to do. What's the problem?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop
>
> > >I suppose I missed the problem with this. Are people reporting problems
> with
> > >the gear going up too far in flight and causing problems? My little
> rubber
> > >stop experiment is out at the end of the gear, which would experience the
> > >minimum leverage force.
> > >Dave
> > >mini U2
> >
> > Just make sure there is no friction tending to hold the gear up. You
> depend
> > on gravity to get the gear started down, because there is NO leverage to
> > get it moving from the retract lever when in the up position. Look at the
> > geometry.
> > Graham
> >
> >
>
--
Timothy P Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch,
NEW ZEALAND
Ph. 0064 03 3515166
email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Mobile 025 2649325
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. R. Jones" <jronjones(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | new avionics for sale |
Attention all UK builers!
A good friend has the following avionics for sale. All are little used, look
just like new and are (I believe) of the latest spec.
Bendix king KX 125 Nav/com. (I have one and find it superb!)
Bendix King KI 208 Nav. Indicator
Bendix King KT 76A Transponder
PM 501 Inter-com.
Complete with racks, connectors, back-plates etc.
Offered at the silly price of 2150. (Two thousand, one hundred and fifty
pounds UK)
(Harry M's discount price for this package would be around 3495 PLUS the
dreaded VAT @ 17.5% !)
Form an orderly line please, gentlemen!
Regards,
Ron Jones.
(North Wales)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Hammond" <Nick.Hammond(at)saabsystems.com.au> |
Peter,
> could I suggest that people affix an automatically generated 'signature'
> to their e-mails which include their personal e-mail address
> This would enable a direct reply when it is not necessary to communicate
> to the whole forum.
Like you, I find the "default" behaviour of the forum annoying. When you respond
to a message, the reply is automatically addressed to the forum and contains
no trace of the originator's e-mail address. This means that "me too" and other
messages which would be best sent only to the originator are frequently broadcast
to everyone. The result is a large reduction in signal to noise ratio.
There is a way to adjust your personal settings on the list server to alter the
behaviour -- for example so that "reply" goes to the originator and "reply to
all" goes to the forum. I did this last year but the settiings were lost when
the list server crashed a few months ago and I haven't got around to fixing it.
In the meantime the simplest approach is to copy the originator's e-mail address
(higlight and press Control-C) from the original message before pressing
"reply", then to paste it over the forum address (highlight the forum address
and press Control-V) in the reply message.
Best regards,
Nick
________________________________________________________________________________
If you look in the "header" to the message you will find the individual
sender's e-mail address, e. g. Nick Hammond is
Nick.Hammond(at)saabsystems.com.au
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Nick Hammond
Subject: Re: Protocol
Peter,
> could I suggest that people affix an automatically generated 'signature'
> to their e-mails which include their personal e-mail address
> This would enable a direct reply when it is not necessary to communicate
> to the whole forum.
Like you, I find the "default" behaviour of the forum annoying. When you
respond to a message, the reply is automatically addressed to the forum and
contains no trace of the originator's e-mail address. This means that "me
too" and other messages which would be best sent only to the originator are
frequently broadcast to everyone. The result is a large reduction in signal
to noise ratio.
There is a way to adjust your personal settings on the list server to alter
the behaviour -- for example so that "reply" goes to the originator and
"reply to all" goes to the forum. I did this last year but the settings were
lost when the list server crashed a few months ago and I haven't got around
to fixing it. In the meantime the simplest approach is to copy the
originator's e-mail address (higlight and press Control-C) from the original
message before pressing "reply", then to paste it over the forum address
(highlight the forum address and press Control-V) in the reply message.
Best regards,
Nick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wheel Fairing available!! |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Hello fellow builders and flyers!
I am finally able to announce that a mono wheel fairing system will be
available for shipment by end of November. It includes nicely molded front
and rear halves profiled to fit inside the trailer ramp, templates for
cutting the tire profile, instructions, and bits and pieces needed to mount
the system to the swing arm and fuselage. You still need to provide a small
amount of Redux/Araldite 420 and a few inches of BID tape.
The initial offering until end of year is $325 US for fiberglass and $375
for carbon fiber (plus shipping).
If I can get commitments for 10 orders or more, I will hold your monies in
an escrow type account until the shipments are completed.
Please let me know your interest in this!!
Kp
PS, yes, it is worth a couple of knots and does look a whole lot better!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: The Emerald Island Flyout |
>Thanks Graham,
>
>Your help would be appreciated. How you doin'?
>Best regards Bryan
Shouldn't com[plain. But it has been known! I will give Dave a ring and
suss out the scene
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | whell Landing gear stop |
Please forgive the capital on my message re ; the above. I wasn't yelling, I was
just too lazy, after copying the message, to convert it back.
My apologies,
Cheers,
Tim
--
Timothy P Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch,
NEW ZEALAND
Ph. 0064 03 3515166
email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Mobile 025 2649325
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has the
option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.SteveA143Mesa,
AZ--- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
In a message dated 11/4/2002 9:00:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
hagargs(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has the
> option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
> Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
> multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
> the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
> non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
> sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.
> SteveA143Mesa,
> AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
>
I tested my Garmin 295 remote antenna that came with the GPS and put it under
the fiberglass between the doors. It worked absolutely perfectly. I did in
the pasta purchase a remote antenna that I used with a GPS90 in the past - it
was about $89 if I remember right -- a generic antenna -- it worked well
also. most handheld GPS units come with a remote antenna. The ones from ACS
are aircraft and usually designed to be mounted externally. A plain old
antenna stuck in that area between the doors should be fine.
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Steve,
Try this - I think the antenna I used for the 90 was a "mighty mouse" - there
seem to be many antennas for less than $100.
http://www.gpscables.com/catalog.html
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Begin forwarded message:
> Steve Hi!
>
> This is what I'm using, active GPS Antenna.
> http://www.arunmistry.net/acatalog/
> Lowe_Electronics_Accessories_24.html (39.00)
>
> or www.lowe.co.uk under GPS accessories.
>
> Tests so far pre-flight are excellent. Its mounted on 'bid' plate at
> rear of baggage bulkhead at fuselage top, internally. Cable is about
> 10' long so plenty for 'routing'.
>
> I'm sure that even in the USA you have something similar! (Joking) If
> not I'm willing to purchase and ship for you.
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
> EuropaTrigear 384
> G-FIZY
>
> Tel No: +44 7808 402404
>
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Begin forwarded message:
> Steve
>
> The GPS Aerial is $65 including P &P as per the Website.
>
> Gerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)islandtelecom.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit lights |
All,
Just to update you I got the cockpit lights I wanted and they are fantastic.
Cost 11.99 for 2 from Halfords (a car shop here in the UK for our friends
over the pond) They are each about the size of a pen lid, 12 Volt and come
mounted on a tiny platform with a ball joint that allows them to swivel in
all directions. I've tested them on the panel in different lighting
conditions and they are fine, available in blue or red. They come fitted
with a cicar lighter plug which you can carefully remove in order to hard
wire them in to the panel but if you use them don't remove the resistor
wired in line.
Regards
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Cockpit lights
Kevin Hi!
These Spot Lights no longer 'stocked by ACS are from a Company called:
R. V. Redmer
19N831 Big Timber Road
Hampshire
IL 60140
USA
Tel No: +1 847 683 1319
The Model No: 300A Spot Light Red 14VDC
> All,
>
> Went to the site to order the lights and following a conversation with
> them
> they are no longer doing these cockpit lights! Dam it.
>
> Kev T
>
Regards
Gerry
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.net.uk> |
Steve Hi!
This is what I'm using, active GPS Antenna.
http://www.arunmistry.net/acatalog/Lowe_Electronics_Accessories_24.html
(39.00)
or www.lowe.co.uk under GPS accessories.
Tests so far pre-flight are excellent. Its mounted on 'bid' plate at
rear of baggage bulkhead at fuselage top, internally. Cable is about
10' long so plenty for 'routing'.
I'm sure that even in the USA you have something similar! (Joking) If
not I'm willing to purchase and ship for you.
Regards
Gerry
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.net.uk> |
Steve
The GPS Aerial is $65 including P &P as per the Website.
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
> > could I suggest that people affix an automatically generated 'signature'
> > to their e-mails which include their personal e-mail address
> > This would enable a direct reply when it is not necessary to communicate
> > to the whole forum.
>I dare say that people better informed will come up with very worthy reasons
>why this is not a good idea - the Great Unwashed getting hold of their
>personal addresses, etc. - but, having said that.........
Sometimes countered by adding extra characters to your address, e.g. "nospam" or
something similar, which are obviously (to a human but not to a spammer's
address trawling program) to be removed before use.
> Like you, I find the "default" behaviour of the forum annoying. When you
respond to a message, the reply is automatically addressed to the forum and
contains no trace of the originator's e-mail address. This means that "me too"
and other messages which would be best sent only to the originator are
frequently broadcast to everyone. The result is a large reduction in signal to
noise ratio.
>
> There is a way to adjust your personal settings on the list server to alter
the behaviour -- for example so that "reply" goes to the originator and "reply
to all" goes to the forum. I did this last year but the settings were lost when
the list server crashed a few months ago and I haven't got around to fixing it.
I am happy to make this change for any subscriber who so wishes, mail me as
below
John Cliff
Europa Forum minder
john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | Paul Atkinson <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
On Tuesday, November 5, 2002, at 05:34 am, DJA727(at)aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/4/2002 9:00:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> hagargs(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>> I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has
>> the
>> option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
>> Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
>> multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
>> the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
>> non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
>> sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.
>> SteveA143Mesa,
>> AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
>>
>
> I tested my Garmin 295 remote antenna that came with the GPS and put it
> under
> the fiberglass between the doors. It worked absolutely perfectly. I did
> in
> the pasta purchase a remote antenna that I used with a GPS90 in the
> past - it
> was about $89 if I remember right -- a generic antenna -- it worked well
> also. most handheld GPS units come with a remote antenna. The ones from
> ACS
> are aircraft and usually designed to be mounted externally. A plain old
> antenna stuck in that area between the doors should be fine.
>
> Dave
> A227
> Mini U2
>
>
I have done a similar experiment (if you can call it that) with my
Skymap using the portable antenna that came with it. It had no problem
getting a fix in a few seconds both inside my house, and in the garage,
with the instrument panel in the plane and the antenna perched on top of
it. So my plan is to mount the antenna on top of the panel on the
assumption that a few mm of perspex will degrade the signals rather less
than a 19in thick stone wall.
Paul
paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Are you planning to put the antenna outside. I remote mounted the antenna
that came on my GPS 90 and fitted it over the panel. It worked fine.
Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Remote GPS antenna
> I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has the
> option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
> Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
> multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
> the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
> non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
> sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.
SteveA143Mesa,
> AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
Any Pics??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
That's great Kim. This is something that I really don't need to spend a week
or two on creating. What is the weight difference for carbon fiber? And how
is that cowling coming?
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of kpav
Subject: Mono Wheel Fairing available!!
Hello fellow builders and flyers!
I am finally able to announce that a mono wheel fairing system will be
available for shipment by end of November. It includes nicely molded front
and rear halves profiled to fit inside the trailer ramp, templates for
cutting the tire profile, instructions, and bits and pieces needed to mount
the system to the swing arm and fuselage. You still need to provide a small
amount of Redux/Araldite 420 and a few inches of BID tape.
The initial offering until end of year is $325 US for fiberglass and $375
for carbon fiber (plus shipping).
If I can get commitments for 10 orders or more, I will hold your monies in
an escrow type account until the shipments are completed.
Please let me know your interest in this!!
Kp
PS, yes, it is worth a couple of knots and does look a whole lot better!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hedleybrown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
I have the calliper in-line with the swing-arm.... but it was the master
cylinder that I moved out with a little extra bulge in the tunnel, giving
the tyre lotsa room to come up to the top of the tunnel if it wanted to when
retracted; a good thing too, if it disappeared into the belly of the plane
completely the plane would go faster.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop
> >Did this all start with the tyre catching on someone's brake master
> >cylinder? I noticed this during building and simply moved the master cyl
out
> >an inch or two with suitable repair and fortification of the 'tunnel' -
> >seemed the logical thing to do. What's the problem?
>
> Various problems.
> When the brake pads wear, the calliper moves outboard and eventually
> can/might start to rub on the side of the tunnel. If it causes enough
> friction to stick in the up position it will take a real big heave to get
> it started down. In fact a bit of extra +ve G would probably be more
> effective than bending the retract lever.
> Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
In a message dated 11/5/02 5:48:30 AM Mountain Standard Time, lts(at)avnet.co.uk
writes:
> Are you planning to put the antenna outside. I remote mounted the antenna
> that came on my GPS 90 and fitted it over the panel. It worked fine.
>
My antenna is inside -- under the skin. I have a twin comanche and have the
antenna under the fiberglass glareshield and it works fine -- the fiberglass
is transparent to the signal -- no need for additional drag of an antenna.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Paul,
I initially mounted the Skymap antenna in the top, inside, of the
instrument panel. After losing signal on several flights, I found that
the GPS did not like the antenna above the instruments/radios in the
panel. I moved it to the overhead area between the doors (inside the
plane) and have had no trouble since.
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
Paul Atkinson wrote:
> On Tuesday, November 5, 2002, at 05:34 am, DJA727(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 11/4/2002 9:00:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > hagargs(at)earthlink.net writes:
> >
> >> I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has
> >> the
> >> option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
> >> Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
> >> multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
> >> the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
> >> non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
> >> sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.
> >> SteveA143Mesa,
> >> AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
> >>
> >
> > I tested my Garmin 295 remote antenna that came with the GPS and put it
> > under
> > the fiberglass between the doors. It worked absolutely perfectly. I did
> > in
> > the pasta purchase a remote antenna that I used with a GPS90 in the
> > past - it
> > was about $89 if I remember right -- a generic antenna -- it worked well
> > also. most handheld GPS units come with a remote antenna. The ones from
> > ACS
> > are aircraft and usually designed to be mounted externally. A plain old
> > antenna stuck in that area between the doors should be fine.
> >
> > Dave
> > A227
> > Mini U2
> >
> >
>
> I have done a similar experiment (if you can call it that) with my
> Skymap using the portable antenna that came with it. It had no problem
> getting a fix in a few seconds both inside my house, and in the garage,
> with the instrument panel in the plane and the antenna perched on top of
> it. So my plan is to mount the antenna on top of the panel on the
> assumption that a few mm of perspex will degrade the signals rather less
> than a 19in thick stone wall.
>
> Paul
>
> paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Popenoe" <cpops(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Take a look at http://www.gpscables.com/. I bought one of their active GPS
antennas for $45. It works a treat and has much more gain than the
standard detachable antenna on my Garmin handheld. It is about 2" square
and about 1/2" in thickness. I plan on mounting it in the overhead panel,
but until then I am using it in my boat and car with my 176C.
Pops
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Remote GPS antenna
In a message dated 11/5/02 5:48:30 AM Mountain Standard Time,
lts(at)avnet.co.uk
writes:
> Are you planning to put the antenna outside. I remote mounted the antenna
> that came on my GPS 90 and fitted it over the panel. It worked fine.
>
My antenna is inside -- under the skin. I have a twin comanche and have the
antenna under the fiberglass glareshield and it works fine -- the fiberglass
is transparent to the signal -- no need for additional drag of an antenna.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDHeykoop(at)aol.com |
I am impressed by what I hear about the Digitrak autopilot. It seems to me a
very clever piece of kit, and better quality than the Navaid alternative.
Trutrak Flight Systems have pointed me to some excellent pictures of a
Digitrak installed in a Europa at
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/DigiTrak/Digitrak.html.
The installation looks similar to the Europa club mod for a Navaid autopilot
installation. Hopefully we can soon have a Europa club mod for a Digitrak
installation? I don't really want to go through the hassle of getting
approval if someone else has applied for approval already.
John Heykoop
XS Monowheel #536 (now working on the cockpit module)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Steve,
If you get ambitious (or are just downright cheap) go
to the Blue Mountain Avionics site
www.bluemountainavionics.com , click on "installation"
and about half way down the installation page is a
heading "GPS Antennae" ...where you will find a link to
a page to build your own passive GPS antenna (or the
direct link is:
http://freespace.virgin.net/dave.griffin/antenna.htm ).
There is also a link to Trimble GPS to check out their
antenna selection (passive and active) if you want
reference material.
I am planning on building all of my own antennas (from
the RST Engineering http://www.rst-engr.com/ book &
kit), including the above mentioned passive GPS (I will
use this passive GPS home built unit for testing since
my Blue Mountain EFIS/One will be delivered with a
Trimble active GPS antenna).
Whichever antenna I finally use, I will build a little
boss on the underside of the glare shield, behind the
instrument panel, on which to mount the GPS antenna to
keep it nicely hidden and my aircraft very clean
looking.
Regards,
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA USA
dwiegand(at)surewest.net
kit A259
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Steve Hagar
Subject: Remote GPS antenna
I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the
cockpit. It has the
option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon
perusal of the
Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they
have are
multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the
ceiling between
the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a
home made or
non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was
looking for a
sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is
only $450.SteveA143Mesa,
AZ--- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Why?
My Garmin handheld with its built-in aerial works fine in the cockpit .
Other brands and other geographical locations may be different, but there is (for
me at least) little point in a remote aerial.
Duncan Mcf.
On Monday, November 04, 2002 12:00 AM, Steve Hagar [SMTP:hagargs(at)earthlink.net]
wrote:
> I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has the
> option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
> Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
> multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
> the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
> non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
> sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450. SteveA143Mesa,
> AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <tgynz(at)earthlink.net> |
Folks, Chums, Buddies,
While my Europa a-145xs awaits the conclusion
of my GSX-R1000 powerplant motormount and
updrive, 120 hp @ 8k rpm & 180 lbs, I await my brothers
spare time enough to build, read start, this puppy.
Meanwhile, the club musings are intriguing and
inspire me to consider all the nuances mentioned.
I find the friendly discussions from one to all, or
one to one, to be quite enjoyable. It's nice to
imagine attending the flyins mentioned and to
meet many of you'all.
Later Dudes,
Nic - a145xs :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
Kim,
I'm certainly interested, but I think you probably know the next question...
What's the PFA approval status of the mod?
Also, what's the weight difference between carbon and glass?
Regards,
Jeremy
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Mono Wheel Fairing available!!
Hello fellow builders and flyers!
I am finally able to announce that a mono wheel fairing system will be
available for shipment by end of November. It includes nicely molded front
and rear halves profiled to fit inside the trailer ramp, templates for
cutting the tire profile, instructions, and bits and pieces needed to mount
the system to the swing arm and fuselage. You still need to provide a small
amount of Redux/Araldite 420 and a few inches of BID tape.
The initial offering until end of year is $325 US for fiberglass and $375
for carbon fiber (plus shipping).
If I can get commitments for 10 orders or more, I will hold your monies in
an escrow type account until the shipments are completed.
Please let me know your interest in this!!
Kp
PS, yes, it is worth a couple of knots and does look a whole lot better!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel landing gear upstop |
<5.1.1.6.0.20021104111035.02c94490(at)post.aviators.net>
>I have the calliper in-line with the swing-arm.... but it was the master
>cylinder that I moved out with a little extra bulge in the tunnel, giving
>the tyre lotsa room to come up to the top of the tunnel if it wanted to when
>retracted; a good thing too, if it disappeared into the belly of the plane
>completely the plane would go faster.
AH! sorry, I misread your earlier message. I do think it's important
though, to know about the friction issue.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Laverty" <bb(at)baliscate.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
hi
i have a garmin hand held in my boat, i got a remote antenna to suit from
duncan yacht chandlers scotland st glasgow.dont know if the garmin i have
will work at europa speeds.
charlie.lian and Charlie
Baliscate Guest House
Tobermory
Isle of Mull PA75 6QA
Tel 44( 0)1688 302048
Fax 44())1688 302666
www.baliscate.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Remote GPS antenna
I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has the
option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.
SteveA143Mesa,
AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
If it's a Garmin 45, it won't. The unit was designed for a tank and has a
top speed less than 100 mph.
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Laverty" <bb(at)baliscate.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Remote GPS antenna
> hi
> i have a garmin hand held in my boat, i got a remote antenna to suit
from
> duncan yacht chandlers scotland st glasgow.dont know if the garmin i have
> will work at europa speeds.
>
> charlie.lian and Charlie
> Baliscate Guest House
> Tobermory
> Isle of Mull PA75 6QA
> Tel 44( 0)1688 302048
> Fax 44())1688 302666
> www.baliscate.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Remote GPS antenna
>
>
> I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has the
> option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
> Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
> multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
> the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
> non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
> sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.
> SteveA143Mesa,
> AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
<004401c2851c$8ede5870$13e687d9@ScotExec>
>If it's a Garmin 45, it won't. The unit was designed for a tank and has a
>top speed less than 100 mph.
>Ferg
Charlie lives on the Isle of Mull. Been building the Europa for 7 years
now. Still works (age 69!) during the summer and the weather up there is
crap in the winter. My next duty session up there is imminent. {:-(
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | erichdtrombley(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
What is the difference between the active and passive GPS antennas? Also, is the
plug/pin connector termination standard in terms of GPS compatibility and what
is the approximate diameter of the connector? I would like to drill the appropriate
size hole in the cross support between the doors.
Regards,
Erich
A028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
"All,
Just to update you I got the cockpit lights I wanted and they are fantastic.
Cost 11.99 for 2 from Halfords (a car shop here in the UK for our friends
over the pond) They are each about the size of a pen lid, 12 Volt and come
mounted on a tiny platform with a ball joint that allows them to swivel in
all directions. I've tested them on the panel in different lighting
conditions and they are fine, available in blue or red. They come fitted
with a cicar lighter plug which you can carefully remove in order to hard
wire them in to the panel but if you use them don't remove the resistor
wired in line. Regards Kev T"
Cheers,
On the strength of Kevin's testimonial above, I wonder if
anyone is going to Halford's in the next week or so? I would mail a cheque
before asking for the favour.
Spur o' th' moment,
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Lamb" <ybh35(at)dial.pipex.com> |
I was thinking of fitting a wobbly prop to my classic 80hp mono to improve
take off without compromising cruse. I would appreciate any personal views
with regard to ease of fitting, ease of operation, performance and cost.
Regards
Steve Lamb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Are you planning to put the antenna outside. I remote mounted the antenna
that came on my GPS 90 and fitted it over the panel. It worked fine.
Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Remote GPS antenna
> I am going to mount my hand held GPS for use in the cockpit. It has the
> option for remotely mounting of the antenna. Upon perusal of the
> Aircraft Spruce catalog it seems all the units they have are
> multi-hundreds of dollars!!!. I want to put it in the ceiling between
> the two doors. Does anyone have any experience with a home made or
> non-aircraft remote antenna in this application. I was looking for a
> sub-$100 unit for an antenna since the whole GPS is only $450.
SteveA143Mesa,
> AZ --- Steve Hagar--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit lights |
Ferg,
Send me your address I have a spare set here. I offered them to Tim if he
doesn't get over to London but I can soon get another's set easy.
PS I have tried them in different light conditions and they are fantastic!
No need to send a cheque yet make sure there OK a second opinion would be
good.
I must stress as I have had one off list comment IM not advocating flying
beyond dusk just I want an option to keep me alive if I end up not been able
to land at my destination at dusk and have to divert!
Regards
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Cockpit lights
"All,
Just to update you I got the cockpit lights I wanted and they are fantastic.
Cost 11.99 for 2 from Halfords (a car shop here in the UK for our friends
over the pond) They are each about the size of a pen lid, 12 Volt and come
mounted on a tiny platform with a ball joint that allows them to swivel in
all directions. I've tested them on the panel in different lighting
conditions and they are fine, available in blue or red. They come fitted
with a cicar lighter plug which you can carefully remove in order to hard
wire them in to the panel but if you use them don't remove the resistor
wired in line. Regards Kev T"
Cheers,
On the strength of Kevin's testimonial above, I wonder if
anyone is going to Halford's in the next week or so? I would mail a cheque
before asking for the favour.
Spur o' th' moment,
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | Paul Atkinson <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
On Tuesday, November 5, 2002, at 05:02 pm, Terry Seaver wrote:
> Paul,
>
> I initially mounted the Skymap antenna in the top, inside, of the
> instrument panel. After losing signal on several flights, I found that
> the GPS did not like the antenna above the instruments/radios in the
> panel. I moved it to the overhead area between the doors (inside the
> plane) and have had no trouble since.
>
> Terry Seaver
> A135 / N135TD
>
Thanks for that Terry. I don't know if it will be any better on top
rather than inside, but I won't be cutting any wire until I have carried
out further experiments. Were you able to tell what equipment was
affecting it?
Paul
paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Clifton" <simon.clifton(at)thorcom.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
tests=REFERENCES,SPAM_PHRASE_05_08,USER_AGENT_OE
version=2.42
I have a lot to do with GPS antennae in my working day.
For a good explanation of GPS, go to:
http://www.trimble.com/gps/
A question was asked:
- 'What is the difference between the active and passive
GPS antennas?'
The answer is that an active antenna has a built-in
amplifier to boost the (relatively very weak) signals
picked up from the satellites. Most GPS receivers
and antennae use amplification, and this is acheived
by the GPS receiver putting out a small amount of
power up the antenna cable, at about 17 volts. This
does not interfere with the signals coming down as
they are at around 1.5 GHZ
Another question asked was:
- 'What about remote mouting an antenna?'
The antenna simply needs to be able to see the sky, and
glass, paper and thin wood are transparent to GPS signals.
This also why receivers work OK in cockpits and dash-boards
of cars. This means that you can easily mount an antenna in the
body of a Europa. Because the cable might be relatively long
it is a good idea to have an active antenna and a GPS receiver
capable of driving it.
It is also important to realise that the 'horizon' of a GPS
antenna matters, so mount your antenna as flat as possible
in normal use. Putting an antenna at a 30 degree angle can
make a lot of difference for the worst if only a few satellites
are visible for some reason at any time.
Lastly
' Where would I buy one, and how much should they cost?'
Well, for UK builders, go to TDC
http://www.tdc.co.uk/antennas/antenna_gps.htm
I recommend the active mag-mount GPSM, expect to pay
about 60.00 GBP plus VAT and shipping. Check the cable
and connector fits your GPS first. Don't let anybody tell you
that you need an 'aviation' antenna unless you are building a jet.
I would suggest a mag-mount one would be a good idea, and
you can build in a small steel 'shelf' the size of a playing card
into the top of the inside of the fuselage with about 20mm
clearance on top. You can then magnetically 'stick' the
antenna to it, and it is free for removal/replacement at any
time (the magnet is very strong indeed!).
Simon
~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
Sorry, Roger and all.
I am afraid I was inadvertently misled by someone at the CAA. Apparently
their service to Certified A/C owners does not extend to Permit A/C owners,
so they will not be sending me a Noise Certificate! That's the bad news,
but the good news is that Francis Donaldson will pursue Noise Certs for
Permit owners on behalf of the PFA and David Bosomworth will pursue the
matter on behalf of the Club. Apparently there was a flood of applications
from other Europa owners to the CAA following my message, so the CAA is now
aware that there is a strong demand. Let's hope something will be in place
by next year. If any German, or other Continental Country Europa owner, who
might be able to assist with noise level test data etc I am sure David would
be most grateful to receive the information.
Best wishes to all,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Noise Certificates
> Classic Europa with a 912UL and an Arplast PV50.
>
> "Ditto."
>
> I will let you know when I receive the certificate, or if I do not get
one!
>
> "Yes please!"
>
> Many thanks,
> Roger.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Klaus Dietrich <Klaus.Dietrich(at)oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Certificates |
we had to do noise level measures for mono wheel Europas with fixed pitch Warp
drive and VP NSI props for the Austrian authorities (Rotax 912). It was done by
the german OUV technical guys.
If needed, I can send you hard copies of the reports.
For same equiped Europas, those certificates will also apply; that's accepted
practice in Germany/Austria at least.
Klaus
William Mills wrote:
> Sorry, Roger and all.
> I am afraid I was inadvertently misled by someone at the CAA. Apparently
> their service to Certified A/C owners does not extend to Permit A/C owners,
> so they will not be sending me a Noise Certificate! That's the bad news,
> but the good news is that Francis Donaldson will pursue Noise Certs for
> Permit owners on behalf of the PFA and David Bosomworth will pursue the
> matter on behalf of the Club. Apparently there was a flood of applications
> from other Europa owners to the CAA following my message, so the CAA is now
> aware that there is a strong demand. Let's hope something will be in place
> by next year. If any German, or other Continental Country Europa owner, who
> might be able to assist with noise level test data etc I am sure David would
> be most grateful to receive the information.
> Best wishes to all,
> William
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Noise Certificates
>
> > Classic Europa with a 912UL and an Arplast PV50.
> >
> > "Ditto."
> >
> > I will let you know when I receive the certificate, or if I do not get
> one!
> >
> > "Yes please!"
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Roger.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Noise Certificates |
Hi William,
I think that we in Germany can give you some assistance as we all have
to go through the noise test procedure. Perhaps the Austrian and Swiss
could also give some input. You will probably need data for Europas with
all engine / prop configurations.
Let us know what the CAA or PFA need. If it is just a copy of the noise
certs that will be easy but I suspect that they will need the noise
measurement data and procedures. We have it all filed away somewhere!!
Barry Tennant
William Mills schrieb:
>
> Sorry, Roger and all.
> I am afraid I was inadvertently misled by someone at the CAA. Apparently
> their service to Certified A/C owners does not extend to Permit A/C owners,
> so they will not be sending me a Noise Certificate! That's the bad news,
> but the good news is that Francis Donaldson will pursue Noise Certs for
> Permit owners on behalf of the PFA and David Bosomworth will pursue the
> matter on behalf of the Club. Apparently there was a flood of applications
> from other Europa owners to the CAA following my message, so the CAA is now
> aware that there is a strong demand. Let's hope something will be in place
> by next year. If any German, or other Continental Country Europa owner, who
> might be able to assist with noise level test data etc I am sure David would
> be most grateful to receive the information.
> Best wishes to all,
> William
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Noise Certificates
>
> > Classic Europa with a 912UL and an Arplast PV50.
> >
> > "Ditto."
> >
> > I will let you know when I receive the certificate, or if I do not get
> one!
> >
> > "Yes please!"
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Roger.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Paul,
I second Terry's advice, because I had to move my Skymap antenna from above
the panel to the overhead to improve the signal. I used to lose the signal
for about 10% of the time when it was above the panel, but now it is
overhead it is OK.
Regards, William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Atkinson" <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Remote GPS antenna
>
> On Tuesday, November 5, 2002, at 05:02 pm, Terry Seaver wrote:
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > I initially mounted the Skymap antenna in the top, inside, of the
> > instrument panel. After losing signal on several flights, I found that
> > the GPS did not like the antenna above the instruments/radios in the
> > panel. I moved it to the overhead area between the doors (inside the
> > plane) and have had no trouble since.
> >
> > Terry Seaver
> > A135 / N135TD
> >
> Thanks for that Terry. I don't know if it will be any better on top
> rather than inside, but I won't be cutting any wire until I have carried
> out further experiments. Were you able to tell what equipment was
> affecting it?
>
>
> Paul
>
> paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Certificates |
Many thanks, Klaus and Barry,
I am sure David will pick your messages up and feed the info to the PFA,
won't you David?
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Klaus Dietrich" <Klaus.Dietrich(at)oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Noise Certificates
> we had to do noise level measures for mono wheel Europas with fixed pitch
Warp
> drive and VP NSI props for the Austrian authorities (Rotax 912). It was
done by
> the german OUV technical guys.
> If needed, I can send you hard copies of the reports.
>
> For same equiped Europas, those certificates will also apply; that's
accepted
> practice in Germany/Austria at least.
>
> Klaus
>
>
> William Mills wrote:
>
> > Sorry, Roger and all.
> > I am afraid I was inadvertently misled by someone at the CAA.
Apparently
> > their service to Certified A/C owners does not extend to Permit A/C
owners,
> > so they will not be sending me a Noise Certificate! That's the bad
news,
> > but the good news is that Francis Donaldson will pursue Noise Certs for
> > Permit owners on behalf of the PFA and David Bosomworth will pursue the
> > matter on behalf of the Club. Apparently there was a flood of
applications
> > from other Europa owners to the CAA following my message, so the CAA is
now
> > aware that there is a strong demand. Let's hope something will be in
place
> > by next year. If any German, or other Continental Country Europa owner,
who
> > might be able to assist with noise level test data etc I am sure David
would
> > be most grateful to receive the information.
> > Best wishes to all,
> > William
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
> > Subject: Re: Noise Certificates
> >
> > > Classic Europa with a 912UL and an Arplast PV50.
> > >
> > > "Ditto."
> > >
> > > I will let you know when I receive the certificate, or if I do not
get
> > one!
> > >
> > > "Yes please!"
> > >
> > > Many thanks,
> > > Roger.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
Message text written by INTERNET:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
>I'm certainly interested, but I think you probably know the next
question...
What's the PFA approval status of the mod?<
I shouldn't think the PFA have heard much about it. Perhaps the first UK
user of this mod could contact me or Ian Rickard so that it might be
considered for Club mod status.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Certificates |
Thanks guys,
yes, the lobbying has started already(!), spoken to Francis and the CAA:- appreciate
your offers of help, will be in touch.
chus,
dave
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
Paul,
I tried temporarily mounting the antenna on top of the instrument panel as
well, with the same poor results, i.e. low signal strength. It wasn't
obvious what in the panel (below the antenna) was causing the problem.
The GPS did work for most circumstances with the antenna in the top of the
panel, but with marginal signal strength, as it turned out. Then one day in
a flight over the mountains, in smoke from forest fires, it lost
acquisition, just when I really felt the need for a GPS. The smoke from
fires hundreds of miles away had blown to the top of the California Central
Valley and collected there, making the smoke very heavy right at the
Northern edge of the valley. I lost sight of both ground and sky for 5-10
minutes. I was flying on the Navaid auto-pilot at the time, slaved to the
GPS. It was just after entering the heavy smoke that the GPS crapped out,
forcing me to switch the auto-pilot to wing leveler mode. I first tried
climbing over it, hesitant to descend towards the now unseen mountains. At
11,500 feet I still couldn't see the sky. Fortunately, I had a hand held
GPS backup that I was able to use to determine when I was clear of the
mountains and able to descend low enough to regain sight of the ground. I
probably could have made it without a GPS, estimating my position by compass
and time, but it was comforting the have the GPS tell me when I was over
Redding, on the floor of the valley.
regards,
Terry Seaver
Paul Atkinson wrote:
> On Tuesday, November 5, 2002, at 05:02 pm, Terry Seaver wrote:
>
> > Paul,
> >
> > I initially mounted the Skymap antenna in the top, inside, of the
> > instrument panel. After losing signal on several flights, I found that
> > the GPS did not like the antenna above the instruments/radios in the
> > panel. I moved it to the overhead area between the doors (inside the
> > plane) and have had no trouble since.
> >
> > Terry Seaver
> > A135 / N135TD
> >
> Thanks for that Terry. I don't know if it will be any better on top
> rather than inside, but I won't be cutting any wire until I have carried
> out further experiments. Were you able to tell what equipment was
> affecting it?
>
> Paul
>
> paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
Included in the Digitrak is the GPS nav mode, this is almost as good as GPS steering,
in that it will still allow you to follow a programmed GPS flight plan.
The GPS nav mode will not turn prior to reaching the waypoints, it must overfly,
and then turn to the outbound course line. This is basically the only difference
in our GPS nav, and GPS steering.
The price will be $1795 + shipping to G.B. which seems to be about $60.
If you are interested in seeing an installation, this site has a great documentation.
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/DigiTrak/Digitrak.html
The only trouble with this is that the installation is at build - I'm trying to
find out if there has been a retro-fit to a fully completed Europa.
Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison (Sweden)" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: The Emerald Island Flyout |
Hi!Brian.
I'm currently in Sweden delivering my Sons Honda CRV, however just prior to
leaving I had a Bulgarian friend contact me from Dublin which prompted me to
take a brief look at maps. I saw an Airfield called Newcastle, just South of
Dublin on the coast almost due West of Anglesey.
I havew e-mailed him asking him to research details of it . I'll revert as
soon as he responds.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: The Emerald Island Flyout
> >No one has come up with any suggestions of what to do, or where to go
there.
> >Yet it is said that Dublin is a place we must not miss.
> >Best regards Bryan A
>
> You might contact some of my Long EZ friends. Dave Ryan lives very near
> Dublin and might be able to offer some advice. I'll see if I can contact
> him. (no email address)
> Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Roger
I have retrofitted a DigiTrak into a XS mono that already has the module
installed. I think it is simpler, easier to do and much easier to
maintain than Steve's.. I have some digital photos and am trying how to
send them to John for the Europa page.
Tom Friedland A079 N96V
beecho@pw-x.com
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Digitrack
Included in the Digitrak is the GPS nav mode, this is almost as good as
GPS steering, in that it will still allow you to follow a programmed GPS
flight plan. The GPS nav mode will not turn prior to reaching the
waypoints, it must overfly, and then turn to the outbound course line.
This is basically the only difference in our GPS nav, and GPS steering.
The price will be $1795 + shipping to G.B. which seems to be about $60.
If you are interested in seeing an installation, this site has a great
documentation.
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/DigiTrak/Digitrak.html
The only trouble with this is that the installation is at build - I'm
trying to find out if there has been a retro-fit to a fully completed
Europa.
Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)attbi.com> |
All
I too am trying to see how to retrofit to a "all ready past that stage"
installation. I think I can by making some sort of attachment to the column
base. ( CS02 ) The servo would be mounted to the inside of the bulkhead with
the arm extending through a hole.
Please, If anyone has "been there - done that" Email me too.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mcdia(at)lineone.net |
Dear Steve,
I would recommend the arplast PV-50.
Last time I looked it was cheaper,lighter and came with more extras than
the alternatives.
On G-BWRO (912 ul 80hp classic mono) it has made a huge difference in takeoff
performance, a moderate difference in cruise speed and has also made the
aircraft significantly easier to slow down on downwind. I cruise at 4600
rpm at around 125kts in still air sipping 13 litres/hr.
BTW I made Bodmin (Cornwall) to Beverley (E.Yorks) in 1 hour 50mins recently
cruising at up to 160kts ground speed (tailwind helped a bit). Who needs
the eclipse jet when you fly a europa!
Cheers,
James McDiarmid
>-- Original Message --
From: "Steve Lamb" <ybh35(at)dial.pipex.com>
>Subject: Re: Props
>Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 14:35:07 -0000
>
>
>I was thinking of fitting a wobbly prop to my classic 80hp mono to improve
>take off without compromising cruse. I would appreciate any personal
views
>with regard to ease of fitting, ease of operation, performance and cost.
>
>Regards
>
>Steve Lamb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
My digitrak has been ordered. My CM is bonded in. I am considering doing
Steve's install by creating an inspection panel in the seat bottom over the
torque tube to install the same fitting Steve used. I think I can do the
whole thing the same way he did, just wish I had his forsight. His install
is better I think because the linkage is out of the way under the seat,
less chance of fouling. Service should be no problem with an access panel to
the torque tube connection. I have not yet asked the factory about cutting
such a panel.
Kevin in Bishop CA
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Roger Anderson
Subject: Digitrack
Included in the Digitrak is the GPS nav mode, this is almost as good as GPS
steering, in that it will still allow you to follow a programmed GPS flight
plan. The GPS nav mode will not turn prior to reaching the waypoints, it
must overfly, and then turn to the outbound course line. This is basically
the only difference in our GPS nav, and GPS steering.
The price will be $1795 + shipping to G.B. which seems to be about $60.
If you are interested in seeing an installation, this site has a great
documentation.
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/DigiTrak/Digitrak.html
The only trouble with this is that the installation is at build - I'm trying
to find out if there has been a retro-fit to a fully completed Europa.
Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Friedland" <beecho@pw-x.com>
Subject: Re: Digitrack
> Hi Roger
> I have retrofitted a DigiTrak into a XS mono that already has the module
> installed. I think it is simpler, easier to do and much easier to
> maintain than Steve's.. I have some digital photos and am trying how to
> send them to John for the Europa page.
> Tom Friedland A079 N96V
Tom,
Many thanks. Peter Zutrauen of Digtrack has forwarded your photos to me
and certainly your solution is one possibility. I shall also be interested
to see how Kevin Klinfelter gets on with his proposal.
Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Oops.... I actually have no affiliation with Digitrak.... I'm just a new
Europa Builder all ready to pick up my dual wing kit in January (I'm
awaiting the accelerated stage parts as a few others are).
Thomas had sent me the pics when I requested them from his post a few
days ago. Just trying to be helpful :-)
Cheers,
Pete Zutrauen
A239
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Digitrack
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Friedland" <beecho@pw-x.com>
Subject: Re: Digitrack
> Hi Roger
> I have retrofitted a DigiTrak into a XS mono that already has the
module
> installed. I think it is simpler, easier to do and much easier to
> maintain than Steve's.. I have some digital photos and am trying how
to
> send them to John for the Europa page.
> Tom Friedland A079 N96V
Tom,
Many thanks. Peter Zutrauen of Digtrack has forwarded your photos to
me
and certainly your solution is one possibility. I shall also be
interested
to see how Kevin Klinfelter gets on with his proposal.
Roger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James H. Nelson" <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Check with Bob Berube at Flight Crafters. He is fitting at least one
unit and maybe more as people see it and its simplicity of instillation.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
writes:
> All
>
> I too am trying to see how to retrofit to a "all ready past that
> stage"
> installation. I think I can by making some sort of attachment to
> the column
> base. ( CS02 ) The servo would be mounted to the inside of the
> bulkhead with
> the arm extending through a hole.
>
> Please, If anyone has "been there - done that" Email me too.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds WA 98020
> (425) 776-5555
> N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
>
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
Kim,
please, can I see any photos of this mod on web?
Also, what's the weight difference between carbon and glass?
Regards,
Stanislav
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Mono Wheel Fairing available!!
>
>
> Hello fellow builders and flyers!
> I am finally able to announce that a mono wheel fairing system will be
> available for shipment by end of November. It includes nicely molded front
> and rear halves profiled to fit inside the trailer ramp, templates for
> cutting the tire profile, instructions, and bits and pieces needed to mount
> the system to the swing arm and fuselage. You still need to provide a small
> amount of Redux/Araldite 420 and a few inches of BID tape.
> The initial offering until end of year is $325 US for fiberglass and $375
> for carbon fiber (plus shipping).
> If I can get commitments for 10 orders or more, I will hold your monies in
> an escrow type account until the shipments are completed.
> Please let me know your interest in this!!
> Kp
>
> PS, yes, it is worth a couple of knots and does look a whole lot better!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
I've seen Kim's fairing and it looks really nice, both from the
aesthetics and from the mounting technique.
Unlike some mainwheel fairings I have seen, Kim has taken into
consideration the fact the plane may want to be trailered. The other
comforting factor is that one of the greatest aerodynamicists around (in
the form of Kim's father, Paul Prout) was involved in the design.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
What about:
weight
ease/cost/delay getting it repaired (especially on a mono)
back-up from the supplier
As always I am of course biased Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Lamb" <ybh35(at)dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Re: Props
> I was thinking of fitting a wobbly prop to my classic 80hp mono to improve
> take off without compromising cruse. I would appreciate any personal
views
> with regard to ease of fitting, ease of operation, performance and cost.
>
> Regards
>
> Steve Lamb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
No problem.
Put the original prop back on!
Duncan McF.
On Wednesday, November 06, 2002 3:08 PM, LTS [SMTP:lts(at)avnet.co.uk] wrote:
> What about:
> weight
> ease/cost/delay getting it repaired (especially on a mono)
> back-up from the supplier
>
> As always I am of course biased Jerry
>
> Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
> www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Lamb" <ybh35(at)dial.pipex.com>
> Subject: Re: Props
>
>
> > I was thinking of fitting a wobbly prop to my classic 80hp mono to improve
> > take off without compromising cruse. I would appreciate any personal
> views
> > with regard to ease of fitting, ease of operation, performance and cost.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Steve Lamb
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
... as for the arplast-PV50:
Be aware:the electric governor is connected to the housing by 3 very tiny
screws. In Rudiger Klink's Europa this thing went off very shortly after take
off, blades full coarse, forced landing, the aircraft fully damaged, Rudiger
went off with to broken vertebrae.
Erich, no 91, still building
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | Paul Atkinson <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
Wiiliam and Terry
I'm convinced.... I'll shove it up top.
Terry your account is a good argument for fitting an autopilot, not that
forest fires are much of a problem here in the North of England. We just
have to contend with mist, fog, and torrential rain :-(
Paul
paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk
On Wednesday, November 6, 2002, at 05:39 pm, Terry Seaver wrote:
> Paul,
>
> I tried temporarily mounting the antenna on top of the instrument panel
> as
> well, with the same poor results, i.e. low signal strength. It wasn't
> obvious what in the panel (below the antenna) was causing the problem.
> The GPS did work for most circumstances with the antenna in the top of
> the
> panel, but with marginal signal strength, as it turned out. Then one
> day in
> a flight over the mountains, in smoke from forest fires, it lost
> acquisition, just when I really felt the need for a GPS. The smoke from
> fires hundreds of miles away had blown to the top of the California
> Central
> Valley and collected there, making the smoke very heavy right at the
> Northern edge of the valley. I lost sight of both ground and sky for
> 5-10
> minutes. I was flying on the Navaid auto-pilot at the time, slaved to
> the
> GPS. It was just after entering the heavy smoke that the GPS crapped
> out,
> forcing me to switch the auto-pilot to wing leveler mode. I first tried
> climbing over it, hesitant to descend towards the now unseen mountains.
> At
> 11,500 feet I still couldn't see the sky. Fortunately, I had a hand
> held
> GPS backup that I was able to use to determine when I was clear of the
> mountains and able to descend low enough to regain sight of the
> ground. I
> probably could have made it without a GPS, estimating my position by
> compass
> and time, but it was comforting the have the GPS tell me when I was over
> Redding, on the floor of the valley.
>
> regards,
> Terry Seaver
>
> Paul Atkinson wrote:
>
>> On Tuesday, November 5, 2002, at 05:02 pm, Terry Seaver wrote:
>>
>>> Paul,
>>>
>>> I initially mounted the Skymap antenna in the top, inside, of the
>>> instrument panel. After losing signal on several flights, I found that
>>> the GPS did not like the antenna above the instruments/radios in the
>>> panel. I moved it to the overhead area between the doors (inside the
>>> plane) and have had no trouble since.
>>>
>>> Terry Seaver
>>> A135 / N135TD
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr Mike Toft" <watervet(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | in GNS 430 - aerials |
Dear List Members,
I am a new forum member building an XS TriGear Kit 510 in South Africa - I started
building in Oct 2001 and I'm about 7/8ths the way through the build.
I would like to hear from anyone who has fitted a Garmin GNS 430 with the GI 106
A - VOR/LOC/GPS/GS especially with reference to the aerials required (other
than the GPS!) - can I make my own or are off the shelf versions better. Any other
advice with the installation would be gratefully appreciated
Regards
Mike Toft
watervet(at)mweb.co.za
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivorphillips" <ivor(at)ivorphillips.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 - aerials |
hi mike you will find that europa`s own trike has the GNS530 installed,
If you ask Andy I am sure he will be of assistance,
regards
Ivor phillips
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr Mike Toft" <watervet(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: Garmin GNS 430 - aerials
> Dear List Members,
>
> I am a new forum member building an XS TriGear Kit 510 in South Africa - I
started building in Oct 2001 and I'm about 7/8ths the way through the build.
> I would like to hear from anyone who has fitted a Garmin GNS 430 with the
GI 106 A - VOR/LOC/GPS/GS especially with reference to the aerials required
(other than the GPS!) - can I make my own or are off the shelf versions
better. Any other advice with the installation would be gratefully
appreciated
>
> Regards
> Mike Toft
> watervet(at)mweb.co.za
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
Steve,
here is a very good article of a Rospeller 3 blade on
an XS w/ 914. Later in the article there is some
information on the Rospeller 2 blade for the 912. Even
if you decide to stay with the fixed pitch prop, this
is a good opinion article about fixed vs. adjustable
vs. constant speed specifically on the Europa:
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Mods/rospeller.
htm
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA
kit A259
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Steve Lamb
Subject: Re: Props
I was thinking of fitting a wobbly prop to my classic
80hp mono to improve
take off without compromising cruse. I would
appreciate any personal views
with regard to ease of fitting, ease of operation,
performance and cost.
Regards
Steve Lamb
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
Kevin, I've seen other builders with panels cut in the seat. When I bond my
cockpit module in I think I'm going to run two tapes of bid on the lower
thigh supports. That will complete the "box" and keep anything from shifting.
If anyone was wondering how I get the unit in and out. I have a screwdriver
with a flexible shaft and the screws are allens. I just put the whip on the
allen, and out, or in, it goes.
I was thinking of building an E-Z trim altitude hold device this winter.
http://hometown.aol.com/ccady/eztrim.htm
I keep going back and forth on the idea, but I have 90% of the parts laying
around the house in robots I've built. Hmmmm... still deciding.....
SteveD.
I use to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
| Subject: | Gear Main wheels width |
All tri-gear builders/flyers:
I am planning to have a trailer built, and for certain reasons it may
preferably have to be built before I have installed the main gear on my own
aircraft. The free clearance inside the trailer wheels is of course a
critical dimension.
I would appreciate very much to receive some actual measurements of the
extreme width on the outside of the main wheels (without speed fairings
installed).
Regards,
Svein K. Johnsen
A225 (now in Norway)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tri-Gear Main wheels width |
From my August 12, 2002 reply to Mark Burton's query on this Forum on the
same subject...
Using the specified gear leg setup as a starting point (36.75 inches from
fuselage centerline to the end of one axle, per the manual) and measuring
the horizontal distance from the end of the axle to the edge of the tire
(7/8 inch), the total width is 75.25 inches. This measurement was made with
the Rotax installed but the wings are not attached, nor is there anything
inside the fuselage - it is still just a complete but empty airframe. I
would expect the gear legs to deflect slightly outward when the aircraft is
ready to fly.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Sidsel & Svein Johnsen
Subject: Tri-Gear Main wheels width
All tri-gear builders/flyers:
I am planning to have a trailer built, and for certain reasons it may
preferably have to be built before I have installed the main gear on my own
aircraft. The free clearance inside the trailer wheels is of course a
critical dimension.
I would appreciate very much to receive some actual measurements of the
extreme width on the outside of the main wheels (without speed fairings
installed).
Regards,
Svein K. Johnsen
A225 (now in Norway)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Emerald Island Flyout |
Ta! Bob.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph J. Like" <josephlike(at)cox.net> |
Would love to read the article mentioned but the link does not exist
anymore. Any help on locating it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>> Would love to read the article mentioned but the link does not exist
anymore. Any help on locating it?
Yes it does... the link is wrapped onto the second line. Just ensure you
have the .htm on the end.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tri-Gear Main wheels width |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Svein Hi!
Some measurement regarding Trigear dimensions.
Outside measurements are:
From Outside to Outside of Main wheels. Top 193 cm - Bottom 184 cm.
Remember there is a camber.
From Inside to Inside of Main wheels. Top 169 cm - Bottom 160 cm
These are measurement of Fuselage based on weight without engine or
Prop fitted
My Trailer has slots for the Main wheels which I measured as above. Bit
stupid really as No engine weight was taken into consideration. I have
subsequently carried a full weight Europa Tri-gear and the Mainwheels
fitted OK into slots so it seems to maintain a fairly consistent
measurement. My trailer will be 200 cm wide and all fits well but it
could be widened by another 30 cm and stay a comfortable size to tow.
The Nose wheel will fit into a slightly raised 'socket', tilting the
tail down at rear of trailer. The safety precedence is based around
Aircraft staying secure fore to aft during acceleration or
de-acceleration, hence slots to maintain 'stowed' position.
Hope that helps.
Kindest Regards
Gerry
Europa Trigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
________________________________________________________________________________
<3DC93B76.6ACE2920@t-online.de>
| From: | Europa Club Membership Secretary <europa-club(at)rowil.clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noise Certificates |
>Perhaps the Austrian and Swiss
>could also give some input
I think that Edith Dolder (HB-YIE) might soon be in a position to
give some info regarding the Swiss results for a Europa equipped with
the Rotax 914 and Kremen/Woodcomp prop (according to the Woodcomp
publicity machine!).
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
> Would love to read the article mentioned but the link does not exist
>anymore. Any help on locating it?
Replace the .htm on the end and it works.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison (Sweden)" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Tri-Gear Main wheels width |
Hi! Svein,
Ican't give you dimensions at present since I'm in Sweden but if you can
wait for a week I'll measure my trailer and ramps for you.Measurements
without engine fitted and full tanks are worthless and especially so when
the aircraft is winched backwards up ramps because the wheels have tow OUT
in reverse so they SPLAY OUT even further and still more so with the nose
wheel off the ground.(presuming you will tow the aircraft backwards)
Mine is a very snug fit and could do with another inch on the width.
It is important that the outer of the tyres are snug to the sides of the
ramp extensions in the trailer since the a/c will jostle about when towed.
Don't initiate the trailer construction until you have the correct
dimensions or you will regret it for ever.
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG (
----- Original Message -----
From: Sidsel & Svein Johnsen <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Subject: Tri-Gear Main wheels width
> All tri-gear builders/flyers:
>
> I am planning to have a trailer built, and for certain reasons it may
> preferably have to be built before I have installed the main gear on my
own
> aircraft. The free clearance inside the trailer wheels is of course a
> critical dimension.
>
> I would appreciate very much to receive some actual measurements of the
> extreme width on the outside of the main wheels (without speed fairings
> installed).
>
> Regards,
> Svein K. Johnsen
> A225 (now in Norway)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
I am interested to learn about this incident - The PV50 electrical
controller is secured with three M4 screws but in normal use they carry very
light loads. It's the only time I've heard of a problem of this nature and I
was told in this case that the spinner had been secured to the electrical
controller rather than the main body of the propeller. Of course the
electrical controller is not designed to carry any significant structural
loads. Certainly not the sort of loads which might be generated by a
slightly eccentrically mounted classic spinner.
If that's not the case I would like to know more. There was an issue
regarding the security of the electric motor itself but all UK owners have
been contacted and advised to make an inexpensive upgrade the motor holder
used in the design since December 2000.
I have over 250 hours on a PV50 and I am now using Mark Burton's Constant
Speed controller which is excellent!
Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: <Eupa91(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Props
> ... as for the arplast-PV50:
> Be aware:the electric governor is connected to the housing by 3 very tiny
> screws. In Rdiger Klink's Europa this thing went off very shortly after
take
> off, blades full coarse, forced landing, the aircraft fully damaged,
Rdiger
> went off with to broken vertebrae.
> Erich, no 91, still building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Remote GPS antenna |
11/06/2002 02:53:39 PM,
Serialize by Notes Client on Ira Rampil/UHMC(Release 5.0.10 |March 22,
2002) at
11/06/2002 02:53:39 PM,
S/MIME Sign failed at 11/06/2002 02:53:39 PM: The cryptographic key was
not
found,
Serialize by Router on nmta.cc.sunysb.edu/DoIT(Release 5.0.11 |July 24,
2002) at
11/06/2002 02:53:25 PM,
Hi All,
An active Garmin GPS antenna was included in my purchase of
a Blue Mountain EFIS/One at an extra cost of less than $50.
I am building it into the roof of the instrument module itself
as I see no particular reason to string it into the rear of the
fuselage. Is there any evidence, or anecdote that the GPS
needs to be remote? I have tested it with two stainless plates
approximating
my through the firewall access panels, but have not put the panel
with the antenna in the fuse yet. As an aside, I did mount the
digital magnetometer in cabin ceiling panel, about midway
between the door hinges.
Ira
Ira J. Rampil, M.S., M.D.
Professor of Anesthesiology and Neurological Surgery
Director of Clinical Research
University at Stony Brook
Stony Brook, New York 11794-8480
(631) 444-2975 voice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | johnwigney(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 - aerials |
Hi Mike,
I have an XS mono with a Garmin GNS 430 which drives a Mid Continental
VOR/LOC//GS/GPS CDI, I believe this is equivalent to the GI 106. I can only
refer you to my antenna setup which has been completely trouble free and which
has given excellent performance.
GPS antenna - Garmin supplied "bubble" antenna and aluminium mounting plate
mounted on fiberglass channel bracket in rear upper fuselage behind bulkhead.
The plate is essential as it is the ground plane.
COM antenna - Bob Archer type SA 006, bonded to inside face of fin
VOR antenna - Bob Archer type SA 007, bonded to bottom suface of outer port
wing
Transponder - Bob Archer type SA 005, bonded to bracket at starboard fuselage
split line aft of bulkhead
Bob Archer antennas can be found at A/C Spruce, see www.aircraft-spruce.com/
(If possible, it is instructive to borrow a VSWR meter from a ham radio
enthusiast and check antenna performance with a hand held radio. I did this
with my Bob Archer antennas and discovered a shortcoming on the COM which
turned out to be a manufacturing defect. Bob has corrected this.)
My remaining antennas are copper tape constructed from a kit of parts from Jim
Weir at RST Engineering. see http://www.rst-engr.com/ . Jim supplies a very
inexpensive package of 100 ft of copper tape and toroids with a text book at
$29.00. (I have tape left over.) The rear fuselage does become rather crowded
and I maximised the distance from the antennas to various other metal items and
other antennas. These distances did end up being less than Jim's careful
recommendations but I have not seen any penalty on performance. The tape strips
can be "dog legged" within reason. If I had to do things over again, I would
have evaluated Jim's copper tape for the VOR and COM and transponder. No reason
to expect that they would not work.
Glide slope - RST type, rear fuselage
Marker beacon - RST type, rear fuselage
ELT - RST type, rear fuselage (duplex for 121.5 & 243 KHZ)
As you can see, I now have 7 antennas ! Although I am not an IFR certified
pilot, I hope to obtain that qualification next year. In the US, IFR for sport
and general aviation pilots is quite common. I have no intention to do any
heavy cloud time, the plan is just to gain additional competency and
flexibility for changing conditions on long distance trips. I am very aware
that the Europa was not designed for IFR flying.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
> Dear List Members,
>
> I am a new forum member building an XS TriGear Kit 510 in South Africa - I
> started building in Oct 2001 and I'm about 7/8ths the way through the build.
> I would like to hear from anyone who has fitted a Garmin GNS 430 with the GI
106
> A - VOR/LOC/GPS/GS especially with reference to the aerials required (other than
> the GPS!) - can I make my own or are off the shelf versions better. Any other
> advice with the installation would be gratefully appreciated
>
> Regards
> Mike Toft
> watervet(at)mweb.co.za
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
Message posted by Graham Singleton,
********************************************************************************
***
>I have retrofitted a DigiTrak into a XS mono that already has the module
>installed. I think it is simpler, easier to do and much easier to
>maintain than Steve's.. I have some digital photos and am trying how to
>send them to John for the Europa page.
>
>Tom Friedland A079 N96V
I retrofitted a Navaid to a Classic. Digitrak would be easier I
suspect. The servo was mounted on the side of the tunnel below the pilot's
right knee. A small attachment bracket was bolted to the side of the CS 02
control stick fork, the short push rod pivoted to that. Then I made a
curved cover to extend the thigh support forwards and down to the floor.
This concealed everything and also greatly improved the comfort of the seat.
I will send a picture to John Cliff. If anyone else would like the picture
email me off list. [ I have receved the picture and will post it shortly -
JFC ]
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
> Would love to read the article mentioned but the
> link does not exist anymore. Any help on locating it?
Mea culpa. I am half way through reorganising the site a bit, hope to have it
back in one piece in an hour or two.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Lowe <CONSTRUCTION_DESIGN_SERVICES(at)compuserve.com> |
Unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
I have changed the site around a bit to tidy it, introducing a new section
called Techniques and moving a few items into it, and removing a few obsolete
items.
New material today is some pages on control cable fabrication, mainly by Ferg
Kyle (with a little help(?) from me), see
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Techniques/cables.htm
Also a couple of pictures of a spit-roaster for the fuselage,
see http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Techniques/Dollies.htm
And a small piece on hinge pins, from me, see
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Techniques/hinges.htm
The propeller piece to which a split link was posted yesterday is at
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Mods/rospeller.htm
GrahamS has sent me a Navaid installation picture which I will add shortly.
John Cliff
Europa Forum minder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 - aerials |
johnwigney(at)att.net wrote:
> ...If I had to do things over again, I would
> have evaluated Jim's copper tape for the VOR and COM and transponder. No reason
> to expect that they would not work.
> ....
Actually even Jim weir does not recommend a copper-tape dipole for the
transponder. It is highly unlikely the thing will come out peaked
between the xmit and receive frequencies, and the equipment to tune it
is not within easy reach.
A dipole for the xponder wastes a theoretical one half of the power
radiating above the aircraft, meaning that a 1/4 wave antenna will
have more gain in the desired direction. A dipole is also technically
illegal in the U.S. even on a homebuilt, per strict interpretation of
Part 91 and the xponder TSO, in lieu of a TSO or radiation field
testing. Not that it's not a usable product, Archer's xponder antenna
sure looks like a dipole.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
> >I have retrofitted a DigiTrak into a XS mono that already has the module
> >installed. I think it is simpler, easier to do and much easier to
> >maintain than Steve's.. I have some digital photos and am trying how to
> >send them to John for the Europa page.
This picture is now posted, see
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Mods/navaid.htm
John Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 - aerials |
>A dipole for the xponder wastes a theoretical one half of the power
>radiating above the aircraft, meaning that a 1/4 wave antenna will
>have more gain in the desired direction.
Fred
I'm not a radio ham or xpurt but my understanding is that the dipole is
better than the 1/4 wave because its radiation pattern is more like a
horizontal doughnut, whereas the 1/4 wave is more or less a hemisphere. THe
1/2 wave dipole puts more of the energy out horizontally.
I've used a Bob Archer dipole, neat printed circuit board with the antenna
etched onto it, and it worked well from inside the fuselage.
Someone correct me if that is not correct?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Remote GPS antenna |
irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> ...
> I am building it into the roof of the instrument module itself
> as I see no particular reason to string it into the rear of the
> fuselage. Is there any evidence, or anecdote that the GPS
> needs to be remote? I have tested it with two stainless plates
> approximating
> my through the firewall access panels, but have not put the panel
> with the antenna in the fuse yet.
The explanation for any such anecdotes would have to be proximity to
noise sources, avionics and spinning motors. GPS receiver sensitivity
is typically -135 dBm, like around 20 times more sensitive than any
other receiver in an aircraft. Plus another bad phenomenon where the
noise source is underneath the antenna. It is also a function of the
square of the distance - inversely, so mere inches count. I'd like to
try mounting it in the space inside the right side "shelf." There
would be some blockage of a satellite down toward 30-deg from the
horizon off the left side, and fwd thru the prop, but years of GPS
navigating seems to conclude that those sats - which GPS wants for
best 3-D, leaving 2-D working just fine, are practically useless (if
an altimeter is installed!). But still near to ignition noise
though. Has anyone tried that?
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | nnas, antennae, aerials |
Cheers,
The following caught my eye:
"(If possible, it is instructive to borrow a VSWR meter from a ham radio
enthusiast and check antenna performance with a hand held radio."
It's true a VSWR meter will measure the returned enrgy froma
faultily proportioned antenna, so I don't mean to correct the statement.
However, many hams have become somewhat more sophisticated and have Antenna
Analyzers which measure the various qualities of the antenna or system
without having to transmit into them. However, these are most sensitive and
usually require the owner to do the measuring. I have one for our club, and
nearly everyone is happy to hang by and see the advantages of this device.
If you can find a dedicated ham it's almost certian his curiosity will
attract him to measuring an aircraft system for you. The local radio club
will find such a person.
Ferg A064
" I did this with my Bob Archer antennas and discovered a shortcoming on the
COM which turned out to be a manufacturing defect. Bob has corrected this.)"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Remote GPS antenna |
| From: | "Cripps, David" <david.cripps(at)spsystems.com> |
I have a stick aerial for my panel-mounted Skymap which is mounted to the left
of the 'shelf' in front of the RH seat, on the vertical part of the instrument
panel. The aerial is about half way back from the front of the instrument panel
to the back side(firewall side). In this position it is pretty close to various
electronics (eg radios, transponders etc) but as yet I've had no problem
at all with this position.
However, make sure that any non-aviator passengers realises that the aerial is
NOT there to be used as a convenient grab handle when getting in!
David
GBWJH
Trigear Classic
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Fwd: Remote GPS antenna
irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> ...
> I am building it into the roof of the instrument module itself
> as I see no particular reason to string it into the rear of the
> fuselage. Is there any evidence, or anecdote that the GPS
> needs to be remote? I have tested it with two stainless plates
> approximating
> my through the firewall access panels, but have not put the panel
> with the antenna in the fuse yet.
The explanation for any such anecdotes would have to be proximity to
noise sources, avionics and spinning motors. GPS receiver sensitivity
is typically -135 dBm, like around 20 times more sensitive than any
other receiver in an aircraft. Plus another bad phenomenon where the
noise source is underneath the antenna. It is also a function of the
square of the distance - inversely, so mere inches count. I'd like to
try mounting it in the space inside the right side "shelf." There
would be some blockage of a satellite down toward 30-deg from the
horizon off the left side, and fwd thru the prop, but years of GPS
navigating seems to conclude that those sats - which GPS wants for
best 3-D, leaving 2-D working just fine, are practically useless (if
an altimeter is installed!). But still near to ignition noise
though. Has anyone tried that?
Regards,
Fred F.
**********************************************************************************************
All sales of goods are subject to the terms and conditions of sale (the Conditions)
of SP Systems (the Company) which are available on request from the Company
or may be viewed on our Website (http://www.spsystems.com).
Any advice given by the Company in connection with the sale of goods is given
in good faith but the company only warrants that advice in writing is given with
reasonable skill and care. All advice is otherwise given subject to the Conditions.
The contents of this message and any attachments are confidential and
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Information contained in this message may be subject to legal,
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person without the express permission of the sender. If you are not the
intended recipient you are not authorised to disclose, copy, distribute
or retain this message or any part of it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Thanks for your inquiry about the mono wheel fairing!
I am currently molding a carbon version that will be weighed against a
fiberglass version for comparison. I will know the result early next week
and will let you know. Theoretically, should be about 1/2 the weight, maybe
1 lb vs 2 lb.
I will also be taking photos of the installation on Lincoln Ragle's Europa
and will post those back to you ASAP. Someone asked if it looks like Bob
Jacobsen's fairing....yes, exactly, as Bob (with permission) copied mine.
Thanks again for your support!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
On the tpoic of antennas, I neglected to reply to the second quote:
"I did this with my Bob Archer antennas and discovered a shortcoming on
theCOM which turned out to be a manufacturing defect. Bob has corrected
this.)"
The advantage of the analyzer to measure planned antennas (and
their feedlines) is typical of the above. A lot of time can be saved by
discovering a faulty position, or a wrong dimension before the antenna is
fixed into position.
Additionally, I remember that copper tape antennas should not be
entirely embedded in composite because of the temperature changes which
stress the tape. A lengthened dimension tears the tape in two, so intend to
avoid sticking it to the fuselage etc.
Cheers, Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
Anyone got contact details for David Hunter please?
Kind regards
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: David Hunter |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Kevin Hi!
> Anyone got contact details for David Hunter please?
I normally have got hold of him on 07939 157426.
Regards
Gerry
>
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
>Folks,
I'm at a loss! I derigged my Europa and having re-rigged it I don't appear
to have full elevator DOWN movement. I have LOADS of up travel but only a
little down. I don't get it as looking at the mass balance its hitting both
the top and bottom stop. The tail planes are located in the pins so I don't
see what I could have possibly got wrong but it don't look right from where
I'm standing. And its not going anywhere till I get a second opinion or I
work it out.
Any ideas? am I missing something simple and silly?
Regards
Kev T
PS on the positive side I fitted a new intercom and I have got rid of the
annoying background noise, buzz, hum, crackle and pops.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel |
| From: | "Nick Hammond" <Nick.Hammond(at)saabsystems.com.au> |
Kevin,
This sounds normal. Travel should 4 degrees down through 12 degrees up (this info
is, unhelpfully, in the pitch-trim chapter). You need to use the incidence
block described in the tailplane assembly chapter and an inclinometer of some
sort to make the measurements. Provided that the full 16 degrees of travel is
available, the range can be adjusted by the TP18A assembly on the lower leg of
the mass balance arm.
Best regards,
Nick
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Elevator travel
Folks,
I'm at a loss! I derigged my Europa and having re-rigged it I don't appear
to have full elevator DOWN movement. I have LOADS of up travel but only a
little down. I don't get it as looking at the mass balance its hitting both
the top and bottom stop. The tail planes are located in the pins so I don't
see what I could have possibly got wrong but it don't look right from where
I'm standing. And its not going anywhere till I get a second opinion or I
work it out.
Any ideas? am I missing something simple and silly?
Regards
Kev T
PS on the positive side I fitted a new intercom and I have got rid of the
annoying background noise, buzz, hum, crackle and pops.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Kevin Hi!
>
> I'm at a loss! I derigged my Europa and having re-rigged it I don't
> appear
> to have full elevator DOWN movement. I have LOADS of up travel but
> only a
> little down. I don't get it as looking at the mass balance its hitting
> both
> the top and bottom stop. The tail planes are located in the pins so I
> don't
> see what I could have possibly got wrong but it don't look right from
> where
> I'm standing. And its not going anywhere till I get a second opinion
> or I
> work it out.
>
>
> Any ideas? am I missing something simple and silly?
>
Just being silly Kevin!!! Thats how it is. If I remember it's something
like12 degrees up and 4.* Down. It's in the manual at back where it
gives all measurements as final checkout.
A large Whisky, a bad Woman and off to bed! It will all be OK in the
morning!
>
Regards
Gerry
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel |
Any ideas? am I missing something simple and silly?
>Just being silly Kevin!!! Thats how it is. If I remember it's something
>like12 degrees up and 4.* Down. It's in the manual at back where it gives
>all measurements as final checkout.
>
>A large Whisky, a bad Woman and off to bed! It will all be OK in the morning!
>Regards
>
>Gerry
If its a monowheel you need 13deg up and 4 or 5 down. When the tail is on
the ground the elevator is only deflected a little from level so it helps
to have all the downforce you can get when speed is dropping through
20 knots and the rudder stops being effective. So that the tailwheel can
prevent a ground loop.
Graham
just another thought
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns(at)hevanet.com> |
All:
To all those who've enquired about my kit, thank you. It's now been sold.
Happy building and safe flying, everyone.
Cheers,
Shaun Simpkins
Ex-A207
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
I can personally attest to the fact the the thing is a bugger to make and
Kim's price seems like a good deal!
Bob Jacobsen
A131
From: kpav <kpav(at)uia.net>
>Subject: Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!!
>Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 09:20:24 -0800
>
>
>Thanks for your inquiry about the mono wheel fairing!
>I am currently molding a carbon version that will be weighed against a
>fiberglass version for comparison. I will know the result early next week
>and will let you know. Theoretically, should be about 1/2 the weight, maybe
>1 lb vs 2 lb.
>I will also be taking photos of the installation on Lincoln Ragle's Europa
>and will post those back to you ASAP. Someone asked if it looks like Bob
>Jacobsen's fairing....yes, exactly, as Bob (with permission) copied mine.
>Thanks again for your support!
>kp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GNS 430 - aerials |
Graham Singleton wrote:
>
> >A dipole for the xponder wastes a theoretical one half of the power
> >radiating above the aircraft, meaning that a 1/4 wave antenna will
> >have more gain in the desired direction.
>
> Fred
> I'm not a radio ham or xpurt but my understanding is that the dipole is
> better than the 1/4 wave because its radiation pattern is more like a
> horizontal doughnut, whereas the 1/4 wave is more or less a hemisphere. The
> 1/2 wave dipole puts more of the energy out horizontally.
> I've used a Bob Archer dipole, neat printed circuit board with the antenna
> etched onto it, and it worked well from inside the fuselage.
> Someone correct me if that is not correct?
> Graham
That's my understanding too, 'cept it's in the hemisphere below the
aircraft where ATC's transponder is. The dipole is better
horizontally, only if the poles are straight, and the theoretical
advantage at an unrealistic 0-degrees is supposed to be .85dB - not a
lot. And often less relevant than other characteristics, with plusses
and minuses to both types.
It's worth noting that no transponder I know of pumps out anything
near the minimum xmit power permitted by the gubment (70W in the low
altitude structure), and they further allow for 50% loss in the coax,
usually requiring malice to achieve. It's logical to assume that
ATC's equipment is designed to tolerate even less signal strength,
meaning there's a lot of "slop" in the system. So the fact that a
given antenna works fine means it's at least radiating a small
fraction of the xponder's 200-250W in the right direction. It may
coincidentally be performing better than another - or not!
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Thanks for your inquiry about the mono wheel fairing!
I am currently molding a carbon version that will be weighed against a
fiberglass version for comparison. I will know the result early next week
and will let you know. Theoretically, should be about 1/2 the weight, maybe
1 lb vs 2 lb.
I will also be taking photos of the installation on Lincoln Ragle's Europa
and will post those back to you ASAP. Someone asked if it looks like Bob
Jacobsen's fairing....yes, exactly, as Bob (with permission) copied mine.
Thanks again for your support!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
| Subject: | rough running Subaru |
Folks,
Just an update on my rough running Subaru, please feel free to throw ideas
at me if you have any.
I spent the day messing around and didn't really get too far, let me tell
you the symptoms and feel free to throw in any ideas, although I realise
most of you have Rotax.
Its intermittent rough running at low rpm tick over-3000 rpm, resulting in
bad running?/vibration?/misfiring? (Engine cuts if I pull throttle back to
idle)
I drained and cleaned out the tank as the carb had what appears to be water
and crap in!
The voltmeter is odd and is reading 14-15 volts!? (If I take out the fuse
for the alt charge it drops down to 12.5 ish where it should be)
Leaning and carb heat appears to assist in easing the problem but doesn't
cure it.
Have checked the Diaphragm in the carb and it appears to be operating OK.
Not sure where to start really.
1. Could junk in the carb but I have flushed it through now a good few
times?
2. Could be ignition problem?
3. Could be a mixture problem
4. On the way home had an awful thought that the head gasket might have
gone, water blowing back in to carb? I need to check the water level and oil
I guess to confirm this is not the case.
For info last set of plugs were blacker than normal, Oil change appeared to
be OK, fitted new plugs and just had a though tonight I should check the
gaps to make sure they were set right, although this problem was apparent on
the last set of plugs.
Maybe I have 2 problems? I've just had the panel out and something could be
wrong there? giving the discrepancy in voltage.
As I'm sure you have gathered from my description I'm not an engine man and
am trying to ascertain the potential problem before deciding on my next
steps to call in some reinforcements.
Regards
Kev T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
Tom Friedland's pictures of his DigiTrak installation are now available on the
List Support site.
See http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Mods/digitrak.htm
John Cliff
Europa Forum minder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | europa-builder(at)ntlworld.com |
| Subject: | Re: That rough running Subaru |
Kevin Taylor wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Just an update on my rough running Subaru, please feel free to throw
> ideas at me if you have any.
>
> I spent the day messing around and didn't really get too far, let me
> tell you the symptoms and feel free to throw in any ideas, although I
> realise most of you have Rotax.
>
> Its intermittent rough running at low rpm tick over-3000 rpm,
> resulting in bad running?/vibration?/misfiring? (Engine cuts if I
> pull throttle back to idle)
>
> I drained and cleaned out the tank as the carb had what appears to be
> water and crap in!
>
> The voltmeter is odd and is reading 14-15 volts!? (If I take out the
> fuse for the alt charge it drops down to 12.5 ish where it should be)
>
> Leaning and carb heat appears to assist in easing the problem but
> doesn't cure it.
>
> Have checked the Diaphragm in the carb and it appears to be operating
> OK.
>
>
> Not sure where to start really.
>
> 1. Could junk in the carb but I have flushed it through now a good few
> times?
> 2. Could be ignition problem?
> 3. Could be a mixture problem
> 4. On the way home had an awful thought that the head gasket might
> have gone, water blowing back in to carb? I need to check the water
> level and oil I guess to confirm this is not the case.
>
> For info last set of plugs were blacker than normal, Oil change
> appeared to be OK, fitted new plugs and just had a though tonight I
> should check the gaps to make sure they were set right, although this
> problem was apparent on the last set of plugs.
>
>
> Maybe I have 2 problems? I've just had the panel out and something
> could be wrong there? giving the discrepancy in voltage.
>
> As I'm sure you have gathered from my description I'm not an engine
> man and am trying to ascertain the potential problem before deciding
> on my next steps to call in some reinforcements.
>
> Regards
>
> Kev T
Hi Kevin,
When charging, I would expect to see between 13 and 15V, the charge circuit
needs a slightly higher voltage to stop the battery 'blocking' the charge.
There are a couple of other things you should check:-
o Timing
o Advance/retard unit (if mechanical one used)
Does it run rough on both fuel pumps? Can you borrow a carb. from anyone?
(Sorry, my Subaru is fuel injected, but you can borrow my fuel system if you
want and if it fit's your engine).
Cheers,
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JW <xs191(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | trak / Digiflight |
Hello all.
I have a question about these Trutrak systems. I see everyone
talking about the Digitrak, and not about the Digiflight. Is the
additional cost the only reason everyone is installing the Digitrak, and
not the Digiflight?
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ideas for: That rough running Subaru |
Kevin,
just a few thoughts (cold, rainy day in Northern
California...stuck inside reading email and giving
long-winded replies):
Do you have a repair manual for the engine (or the type
& year of car it came from)? If not, this is a must
have item.
On the head gasket, this is easy to check, if you have
(or can borrow) a compression gauge.
1) If a head gasket has gone you would see white steam
in the exhaust and water dripping or running from the
exhaust pipe (you did not mention either of these).
Also, you should not get coolant in the carb since the
engine produces vacuum during operation. The coolant
could only get to the carb in this situation if the
fuel system is inverted (under the engine - I don't
think this is the usual Subaru set-up) since it would
trickle down by gravity after the engine is shut down.
2) Get the specs for the engine, it should tell you how
high the compression per cylinder should be and what an
acceptable difference between cylinders should be (for
example - it could state nominal compression is 160 psi
+/- 10 psi with a difference of no more than 15 psi
from the strongest to weakest reading....this is just
an example - the book will give proper values). If one
cylinder (or more than one) has an unusually low
reading the gasket MAY be the problem...or it could be
that a valve is not seating properly from severely worn
seats or burned valve edges (from running too lean, too
long) or bent valve stems (usually from constant engine
over rev) causing sticking. I think that neither is
the problem because you state that it runs rough only
intermittently at low RPM settings...but these are good
tests to show engine wear, in addition to a leak-down
test that checks for minor valve seat and piston ring
wear. A decent compression tester (looks like a large
dial type tire (tyre) gauge with a tapered rubber plug
over the Schrader valve to stick in the spark plug
hole) should be about GBP 35. You may also want to get
(or borrow) a Vacuum / pressure gauge, that way you can
see what kind of vacuum your intake produces and what
pressure your fuel pump creates.
It does sound (to me) more like a fuel or ignition
hesitation problem (because of the intermittent
nature). Glad to hear you cleaned the grit and goo out
of the carb but don't like to hear that it was there in
the first place. It could be that some of this goo or
grit has gotten to the metering system of the carb
which "meters" the air-fuel ratio (17 to 22 pounds of
air for each pound of fuel) which could give unsteady
mixture. Obviously why we need fuel filters, sumps,
drains and gascolators. If the engine sat for more
than 6 to 12 months with fuel in the carb, the fuel can
separate and the solids can gum up (or varnish) the
metering needles or jets, which translates to poor idle
and poor low speed running (if it will idle at all),
but this is from fuel starvation - yours sounds like
too much fuel (flooding). If some grit did find its
way to the low speed jet (or needle) it could have
enlarged the jet or needle seat which would admit too
much fuel.
It could more likely be a combination of fuel and
ignition. Sort of like a race car engine running at low
RPM - it sounds like it is running very rough due to
the timing trying to digest the larger than normal
(passenger car engine being normal) air-fuel mix that
the large carb and camshaft are introducing. As the
engine speeds up with increasing RPM, the distributor
advances the timing to trigger the spark at the most
efficient time and the mixture can burn more thoroughly
due to the residual heat of the previous ignition
cycle.
You could also check the ignition system as the engine
runs, pull off a plug wire and listen for a difference
in how the engine runs. Do the plug wires one at a
time so you only have one plug wire loose at a time.
You may want to loosen the wire with the ignition OFF
and GENTLY pull the wire off the plug with a clean
rubber-handle pliers while the engine is running...some
poorly shielded (or even greasy / dirty) plug wires can
give you a good shock (more startling than dangerous
unless you have a pacemaker) and a sore elbow. You can
also check the impedance (resistance value per length)
of the plug wires to ensure spec and also make sure the
end connectors (the little metal bits inside the rubber
end boots) are securely attached and have contact with
the center conductor wire. There is a 74 MG Midget
1275 in the garage that once a year in the Spring I
take the distributor cap with all of the plug wires
attached and run it through the automatic dishwasher to
get all of the previous years grime off (after cleaning
with lacquer thinner first....don't let your better
half catch you doing this...big, big trouble). You
could also try changing the coil (this assumes you are
using a coil-distributor ignition system, NOT a magneto
system) with one of the high voltage racing coils (for
on-the-ground testing only) to see if there is a
change.
On the voltage: 12Vdc systems are actually about 13.8
Volts dc and operate OK from about 10.5 volts to 16
volts. BUT, due to the critical nature of what we are
doing (no one wants to fall from the sky or smoke their
expensive avionics) these tolerances should be
tightened up and monitored with a current regulation
and an voltage over/under limiting system. So it does
NOT sound like this is a contributing factor since you
get 12.5 volts from batt only and about 14 (pretty
close to 13.8) from the alternator. If it were under
11Vdc I would correct this...I had a Thunderbird Turbo
Coupe with electronic ignition and electronic fuel
injection that would run funny when the battery got
weak. This is also where I ran across the plug wires
that were cooked inside (from the heat off the
turbocharger turbine side) but looked fine on the
outside.
Testing with meters and gauges is the only way.
Unfortunately you have your work cut out for you since
the problem is intermittent, but I would concentrate
first on the fuel system since you say leaning-out and
carb heat helps...sounds like it is running too rich in
the lower RPM band (could be that the idle jet or
needle is letting in way too much fuel) since leaning
reduces the fuel load and carb heat increases air flow
(since it is not going through a restrictor like an air
filter).
What do the plugs look like? After extended running
they should have a small amount of TAN scale on the
electrode. If it is black, the engine is running too
rich, if it is white too lean, if they are oily it
could be worn or stuck rings or worn valve guides, if
they are wet but not oily could be head gasket or
cracked cyl head or cracked block (cracked block only
if the cylinders are in the block like an I-4, V6, V8
or V12 car engine but generally not a boxer engine like
Rotax 912/914, BMW R-engine Motorcycles, air-cooled VW,
Porsche 911/912 type, Ferrari BB512 and of course
Subaru).
Check the no-load (idle) and load (usually around 2200
to 2300 RPM, but the book should say) ignition timing,
as stated in the instructions. The book may tell you
to disconnect the vacuum hose if it is a vacuum advance
system or to disconnect a certain wire - usually for
electronic ignition. Also check that it is advancing
properly (and smoothly as you increase RPM from idle to
the load value) as seen from the difference of no-load
and load timing
Is it a single carb or dual carb set-up? If it is
dual, the carbs may need to be synchronized.
Do you have single or dual ignition? If dual, is there
a difference in how the engine runs with one system
shut down?
Is it coil-distributor or coil-distrib. with CDI
(capacitive discharge ignition) or magnetic impulse
(magneto) ignition? If it is CDI, I had an Audi 100LS
with CDI that when the box heated up it would not
function properly - you may need to change the CDI box,
if there is one, and re-test.
In the repair manual, there should be a section on the
carb system. There may be specified adjustments for
the idle (low RPM) screw or jet or metering system that
you can work with. It may look like a set screw with a
spring between the screw head and the carb body at the
base of the carb (nearest the manifold, not the air
cleaner). The book should tell you the initial setting
for it (might be something like 1.25 or 1.5 turns out
from seat) so you could try turning it in
(clockwise-CW) SLOWLY & GENTLY until it hits bottom and
back it out (CCW or anti-CW) 1 turn and test from
there. Check the book!
If you have someone close with the same engine set-up
(either in a plane or a car) ..trade carbs and test,
trade coils and test, trade plug wires & distrib cap
and test, etc. Just remember to trade back (sometimes
it is nice to have friends)...mark the ownership of
original parts for easy ID.
It could even be excessive back pressure in the exhaust
system, but I doubt it since this usually lets an
engine idle but not rev high. While the engine is
running, hold your hand (open palm) near the exhaust
pipe end...is there slight to good force pumping your
hand away? Or does it suck your palm in toward the
pipe? Should be a slight pressure holding your palm
away in pulses as the cylinders fire. What does your
palm smell like after this test? Smells heavily of
petrol...too rich, palm gets really hot...too lean.
Best test gear: sight, sound, smell and touch....leave
tasting out of these tests.
Has the engine been rebuilt? If so, was the original
(or original dimension) camshaft used? Or was it
changed to create a different power band? Passenger
cars have cams that produce good low-RPM Torque and
good mid-RPM horsepower....racing or special use cams
are altered (more valve lift for longer duration) to
create good low- to mid-RPM torque and high-RPM max
horsepower. An engine's maximum efficiency is near red
line, just prolonged operation there leads to short
engine life.
For safety, you can run the engine without the prop
(just like running your car with the trans in neutral),
but NEVER without the alternator and coolant
pump...there must be some kind of load (even a modest
one) on the engine (Alt & coolant pump take 1 to 5 hp
to operate).
You should do all of the tests and keep a log for
future reference to monitor the health and life of the
systems (for you) and for your periodic maintenance
check-ups (for insurance) and annual inspections (for
CAA). But whatever you do, write things down.
You can email me off-forum if you rather.
I am self taught...I am too cheap to pay someone for
shoddy work...that, I can do myself!
just my two (1.3 after tax) cents worth,
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA USA
dwiegand(at)surewest.net
kit A259
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Kevin Taylor
Subject: That rough running Subaru
Folks,
Just an update on my rough running Subaru, please feel
free to throw ideas
at me if you have any.
I spent the day messing around and didn't really get
too far, let me tell
you the symptoms and feel free to throw in any ideas,
although I realise
most of you have Rotax.
Its intermittent rough running at low rpm tick
over-3000 rpm, resulting in
bad running?/vibration?/misfiring? (Engine cuts if I
pull throttle back to
idle)
I drained and cleaned out the tank as the carb had what
appears to be water
and crap in!
The voltmeter is odd and is reading 14-15 volts!? (If I
take out the fuse
for the alt charge it drops down to 12.5 ish where it
should be)
Leaning and carb heat appears to assist in easing the
problem but doesn't
cure it.
Have checked the Diaphragm in the carb and it appears
to be operating OK.
Not sure where to start really.
1. Could junk in the carb but I have flushed it through
now a good few
times?
2. Could be ignition problem?
3. Could be a mixture problem
4. On the way home had an awful thought that the head
gasket might have
gone, water blowing back in to carb? I need to check
the water level and oil
I guess to confirm this is not the case.
For info last set of plugs were blacker than normal,
Oil change appeared to
be OK, fitted new plugs and just had a though tonight I
should check the
gaps to make sure they were set right, although this
problem was apparent on
the last set of plugs.
Maybe I have 2 problems? I've just had the panel out
and something could be
wrong there? giving the discrepancy in voltage.
As I'm sure you have gathered from my description I'm
not an engine man and
am trying to ascertain the potential problem before
deciding on my next
steps to call in some reinforcements.
Regards
Kev T
(http://www.grisoft.com).
09/10/02
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
For those that are considering Top Gloss, I have just moved from.. be
careful .. to .. avoid the product at all costs..
After six months of battling with Top Gloss I discovered a surface
separation just at the back of the fin. I peeled this back and within
ten minutes there was no surface paint left on my fuselage. The entire
coating came off in large sheets with very little effort leaving me with
a fuselage in Smooth Prime primer.
Having now made the decision to have the plane commercially painted I
repeated the process on my flying surfaces. By the end of the afternoon
I had peeled off the paint from both stabilators, one flap and one
aileron .. all with little more than my fingernails and the edge of a
knife.
Once I have done all of the surfaces I am going to pack up all the mess
and post it to Polyfiber and tell them what I think of the product!
All told I probably wasted 250 hours of work using Top Gloss.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
This is fair warning to all you forum members!
Due to all the camaraderie, builder support, and the very broad knowledge
base that has been exhibited on this forum, I have been pushed a little too
far and have gone over the edge.
I am now in possession of Europa XS kit #207A. Former owner Shaun Simpkins
was gracious enough to push me off the cliff by accepting by bid for the kit.
Now while I have been lurking on this forum for about two years and I will
use the FAQ's to a great degree, I am fairly sure that the dumb questions
will squeak out from time to time and you will all have to put up with me.
And don't think I won't put in my two cents on matters. Oh! Lord have mercy
on those I run into at any of the Fly-Ins or get together's.
But actually, for some information. My name is Mike Duane (my wife is
Christine) and I live in Redding, California. I'm a Europa Club member. I
live in Northern Calif. just before you fly into Oregon. Lots of rain in the
winter (I guess any British flyers would feel at home around here) and very
hot in the summer. Mostly dry and over 100' F each day by noon. I plan to
build the Europa as a Tricycle gear so my wife can get her PPL when I finish
with the build.
Also, I would be inclined to assist any other Europa flyer that get into
trouble in my neck of the woods. Just call information and ask for us. The
name may only be under Christine but I persuaded her to keep me. I am still
sorting out and cataloging all these parts, and I wouldn't know a bellcrank
from a torque tube but I can read part numbers.
Now the fun begins.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | ne building/flying near Seattle? |
I'm going to be kicking my heels in Redmond, WA, on Sunday 1st December (no
prizes for guessing who I work for...). I was wondering if there are any
Europa builders/fliers/wannabees around there that wanted to get together
for a chin-wag?
Please email me off list at jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com if you would like
to.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
"Tony S. Krzyzewski" wrote:
>
> ... By the end of the afternoon
> I had peeled off the paint from both stabilators, one flap and one
> aileron .. all with little more than my fingernails and the edge of a
> knife.
>
> Once I have done all of the surfaces I am going to pack up all the mess
> and post it to Polyfiber and tell them what I think of the product!
Saddening to hear that, but you _know_ what their reply will be! :-)
I tested an identical product, System Three, on a stab and the
firewall, but won't use it...or any poly now, water or solvent. Poly
is too hard, a bear to compund/buff, and difficult to spot repair. And
yes even staining, from a rusty washer and the rubber on an Adel
clamp. But unable to bird-crap-test, but no bets on grass and
blueberries in the diet.
I recently repaired an accident-damged STOL wingtip for someone,
finishing in acrylic base/clear and was reminded how much easier it
is, with equivalent gloss. In a recent issue of Sport Aviation,
expert Ron Alexander opined a caution about poly on fiberglass - can
be overly stiff he says. The Imron on the other plane is 15 years
old, and the fiberglass parts started showing signs of failure at
about age 10. Especially the parts exposed to both engine heat and
sun, like the fiberglass nose bowl - dulling and mud-cracking, but not
the aluminum top cowl so exposed, nor even plastic elsewhere. Who
knows why that is, but I now figure the shorter longevity of acrylic
enamel isn't a problem, as a finicky paint that outlasts dings,
abrasions, and stains doesn't now seem to make much sense.
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ideas for: That rough running Subaru |
Dean, and all
Thanks for taking the time with your very detailed reply.
I have today found the problem. After spraying the HT leads with WD40 the
problem has gone away (for now at least!)
Very frustrating but I can only put it down to the damp weather and
conditions in our hanger!
I guess I should look at replacing the HT leads. But ground run for 45 mins
and a 15 mins flight today and it was as sweet as a nut.
Kind regards to all
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: ideas for: That rough running Subaru
Kevin,
just a few thoughts (cold, rainy day in Northern
California...stuck inside reading email and giving
long-winded replies):
Do you have a repair manual for the engine (or the type
& year of car it came from)? If not, this is a must
have item.
On the head gasket, this is easy to check, if you have
(or can borrow) a compression gauge.
1) If a head gasket has gone you would see white steam
in the exhaust and water dripping or running from the
exhaust pipe (you did not mention either of these).
Also, you should not get coolant in the carb since the
engine produces vacuum during operation. The coolant
could only get to the carb in this situation if the
fuel system is inverted (under the engine - I don't
think this is the usual Subaru set-up) since it would
trickle down by gravity after the engine is shut down.
2) Get the specs for the engine, it should tell you how
high the compression per cylinder should be and what an
acceptable difference between cylinders should be (for
example - it could state nominal compression is 160 psi
+/- 10 psi with a difference of no more than 15 psi
from the strongest to weakest reading....this is just
an example - the book will give proper values). If one
cylinder (or more than one) has an unusually low
reading the gasket MAY be the problem...or it could be
that a valve is not seating properly from severely worn
seats or burned valve edges (from running too lean, too
long) or bent valve stems (usually from constant engine
over rev) causing sticking. I think that neither is
the problem because you state that it runs rough only
intermittently at low RPM settings...but these are good
tests to show engine wear, in addition to a leak-down
test that checks for minor valve seat and piston ring
wear. A decent compression tester (looks like a large
dial type tire (tyre) gauge with a tapered rubber plug
over the Schrader valve to stick in the spark plug
hole) should be about GBP 35. You may also want to get
(or borrow) a Vacuum / pressure gauge, that way you can
see what kind of vacuum your intake produces and what
pressure your fuel pump creates.
It does sound (to me) more like a fuel or ignition
hesitation problem (because of the intermittent
nature). Glad to hear you cleaned the grit and goo out
of the carb but don't like to hear that it was there in
the first place. It could be that some of this goo or
grit has gotten to the metering system of the carb
which "meters" the air-fuel ratio (17 to 22 pounds of
air for each pound of fuel) which could give unsteady
mixture. Obviously why we need fuel filters, sumps,
drains and gascolators. If the engine sat for more
than 6 to 12 months with fuel in the carb, the fuel can
separate and the solids can gum up (or varnish) the
metering needles or jets, which translates to poor idle
and poor low speed running (if it will idle at all),
but this is from fuel starvation - yours sounds like
too much fuel (flooding). If some grit did find its
way to the low speed jet (or needle) it could have
enlarged the jet or needle seat which would admit too
much fuel.
It could more likely be a combination of fuel and
ignition. Sort of like a race car engine running at low
RPM - it sounds like it is running very rough due to
the timing trying to digest the larger than normal
(passenger car engine being normal) air-fuel mix that
the large carb and camshaft are introducing. As the
engine speeds up with increasing RPM, the distributor
advances the timing to trigger the spark at the most
efficient time and the mixture can burn more thoroughly
due to the residual heat of the previous ignition
cycle.
You could also check the ignition system as the engine
runs, pull off a plug wire and listen for a difference
in how the engine runs. Do the plug wires one at a
time so you only have one plug wire loose at a time.
You may want to loosen the wire with the ignition OFF
and GENTLY pull the wire off the plug with a clean
rubber-handle pliers while the engine is running...some
poorly shielded (or even greasy / dirty) plug wires can
give you a good shock (more startling than dangerous
unless you have a pacemaker) and a sore elbow. You can
also check the impedance (resistance value per length)
of the plug wires to ensure spec and also make sure the
end connectors (the little metal bits inside the rubber
end boots) are securely attached and have contact with
the center conductor wire. There is a 74 MG Midget
1275 in the garage that once a year in the Spring I
take the distributor cap with all of the plug wires
attached and run it through the automatic dishwasher to
get all of the previous years grime off (after cleaning
with lacquer thinner first....don't let your better
half catch you doing this...big, big trouble). You
could also try changing the coil (this assumes you are
using a coil-distributor ignition system, NOT a magneto
system) with one of the high voltage racing coils (for
on-the-ground testing only) to see if there is a
change.
On the voltage: 12Vdc systems are actually about 13.8
Volts dc and operate OK from about 10.5 volts to 16
volts. BUT, due to the critical nature of what we are
doing (no one wants to fall from the sky or smoke their
expensive avionics) these tolerances should be
tightened up and monitored with a current regulation
and an voltage over/under limiting system. So it does
NOT sound like this is a contributing factor since you
get 12.5 volts from batt only and about 14 (pretty
close to 13.8) from the alternator. If it were under
11Vdc I would correct this...I had a Thunderbird Turbo
Coupe with electronic ignition and electronic fuel
injection that would run funny when the battery got
weak. This is also where I ran across the plug wires
that were cooked inside (from the heat off the
turbocharger turbine side) but looked fine on the
outside.
Testing with meters and gauges is the only way.
Unfortunately you have your work cut out for you since
the problem is intermittent, but I would concentrate
first on the fuel system since you say leaning-out and
carb heat helps...sounds like it is running too rich in
the lower RPM band (could be that the idle jet or
needle is letting in way too much fuel) since leaning
reduces the fuel load and carb heat increases air flow
(since it is not going through a restrictor like an air
filter).
What do the plugs look like? After extended running
they should have a small amount of TAN scale on the
electrode. If it is black, the engine is running too
rich, if it is white too lean, if they are oily it
could be worn or stuck rings or worn valve guides, if
they are wet but not oily could be head gasket or
cracked cyl head or cracked block (cracked block only
if the cylinders are in the block like an I-4, V6, V8
or V12 car engine but generally not a boxer engine like
Rotax 912/914, BMW R-engine Motorcycles, air-cooled VW,
Porsche 911/912 type, Ferrari BB512 and of course
Subaru).
Check the no-load (idle) and load (usually around 2200
to 2300 RPM, but the book should say) ignition timing,
as stated in the instructions. The book may tell you
to disconnect the vacuum hose if it is a vacuum advance
system or to disconnect a certain wire - usually for
electronic ignition. Also check that it is advancing
properly (and smoothly as you increase RPM from idle to
the load value) as seen from the difference of no-load
and load timing
Is it a single carb or dual carb set-up? If it is
dual, the carbs may need to be synchronized.
Do you have single or dual ignition? If dual, is there
a difference in how the engine runs with one system
shut down?
Is it coil-distributor or coil-distrib. with CDI
(capacitive discharge ignition) or magnetic impulse
(magneto) ignition? If it is CDI, I had an Audi 100LS
with CDI that when the box heated up it would not
function properly - you may need to change the CDI box,
if there is one, and re-test.
In the repair manual, there should be a section on the
carb system. There may be specified adjustments for
the idle (low RPM) screw or jet or metering system that
you can work with. It may look like a set screw with a
spring between the screw head and the carb body at the
base of the carb (nearest the manifold, not the air
cleaner). The book should tell you the initial setting
for it (might be something like 1.25 or 1.5 turns out
from seat) so you could try turning it in
(clockwise-CW) SLOWLY & GENTLY until it hits bottom and
back it out (CCW or anti-CW) 1 turn and test from
there. Check the book!
If you have someone close with the same engine set-up
(either in a plane or a car) ..trade carbs and test,
trade coils and test, trade plug wires & distrib cap
and test, etc. Just remember to trade back (sometimes
it is nice to have friends)...mark the ownership of
original parts for easy ID.
It could even be excessive back pressure in the exhaust
system, but I doubt it since this usually lets an
engine idle but not rev high. While the engine is
running, hold your hand (open palm) near the exhaust
pipe end...is there slight to good force pumping your
hand away? Or does it suck your palm in toward the
pipe? Should be a slight pressure holding your palm
away in pulses as the cylinders fire. What does your
palm smell like after this test? Smells heavily of
petrol...too rich, palm gets really hot...too lean.
Best test gear: sight, sound, smell and touch....leave
tasting out of these tests.
Has the engine been rebuilt? If so, was the original
(or original dimension) camshaft used? Or was it
changed to create a different power band? Passenger
cars have cams that produce good low-RPM Torque and
good mid-RPM horsepower....racing or special use cams
are altered (more valve lift for longer duration) to
create good low- to mid-RPM torque and high-RPM max
horsepower. An engine's maximum efficiency is near red
line, just prolonged operation there leads to short
engine life.
For safety, you can run the engine without the prop
(just like running your car with the trans in neutral),
but NEVER without the alternator and coolant
pump...there must be some kind of load (even a modest
one) on the engine (Alt & coolant pump take 1 to 5 hp
to operate).
You should do all of the tests and keep a log for
future reference to monitor the health and life of the
systems (for you) and for your periodic maintenance
check-ups (for insurance) and annual inspections (for
CAA). But whatever you do, write things down.
You can email me off-forum if you rather.
I am self taught...I am too cheap to pay someone for
shoddy work...that, I can do myself!
just my two (1.3 after tax) cents worth,
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA USA
dwiegand(at)surewest.net
kit A259
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Kevin Taylor
Subject: That rough running Subaru
Folks,
Just an update on my rough running Subaru, please feel
free to throw ideas
at me if you have any.
I spent the day messing around and didn't really get
too far, let me tell
you the symptoms and feel free to throw in any ideas,
although I realise
most of you have Rotax.
Its intermittent rough running at low rpm tick
over-3000 rpm, resulting in
bad running?/vibration?/misfiring? (Engine cuts if I
pull throttle back to
idle)
I drained and cleaned out the tank as the carb had what
appears to be water
and crap in!
The voltmeter is odd and is reading 14-15 volts!? (If I
take out the fuse
for the alt charge it drops down to 12.5 ish where it
should be)
Leaning and carb heat appears to assist in easing the
problem but doesn't
cure it.
Have checked the Diaphragm in the carb and it appears
to be operating OK.
Not sure where to start really.
1. Could junk in the carb but I have flushed it through
now a good few
times?
2. Could be ignition problem?
3. Could be a mixture problem
4. On the way home had an awful thought that the head
gasket might have
gone, water blowing back in to carb? I need to check
the water level and oil
I guess to confirm this is not the case.
For info last set of plugs were blacker than normal,
Oil change appeared to
be OK, fitted new plugs and just had a though tonight I
should check the
gaps to make sure they were set right, although this
problem was apparent on
the last set of plugs.
Maybe I have 2 problems? I've just had the panel out
and something could be
wrong there? giving the discrepancy in voltage.
As I'm sure you have gathered from my description I'm
not an engine man and
am trying to ascertain the potential problem before
deciding on my next
steps to call in some reinforcements.
Regards
Kev T
(http://www.grisoft.com).
09/10/02
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave_Miller(at)ca.cgugroup.com |
11/11/2002 09:43:52 AM,
Before I start rolling it on, does anyone have any negatives on smooth
prime.
Are there any other options for a base coat ?
Dave A061 ( slowly getting there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl> |
| Subject: | mates in continental NW Europe? |
A question to builders in Denmark, Holland, Belgium, Germany and France:
what have you done for corrosion prevention?
After trying hard I have not managed to stumble across a place in the area
of continental N.W. Europe that sells the environmentally unfriendly
chromate containing metal surface treatments: - Aluprep / Aluwash / Metal
Prep / Deoxydine.
- Alodine / Alocrome,
- epoxy chromate primer,
- zinc chromate primer / zinc oxide primer,
- chromate jointing compound / JC5A / Duralac.
In the U.S. there is Aircraft Spruce, among others; in the U.K. there is
Silmid, also among others. But shipping abroad is impossible or very
expensive.
Is there a place in the general area of the Netherlands where the nasty
stuff is sold in small quantities (from under the counter if need be)?
Jan de Jong
#461
(now started building in earnest)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ideas for: That rough running Subaru |
also try the automatic dishwasher trick...it works for
my MG (and everyone blames Lucas - the Prince of
Darkness)
the problem with WD 40 is that if you leave it like
that the residue will attract the grime right back to
where it was. Try cleaning them with non-chlorinated
brake cleaner - it evaporates very fast and there is NO
residue left behind.
good luck
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA USA
dwiegand(at)surewest.net
kit A259
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Kevin Taylor
Subject: Re: ideas for: That rough
running Subaru
Dean, and all
Thanks for taking the time with your very detailed
reply.
I have today found the problem. After spraying the HT
leads with WD40 the
problem has gone away (for now at least!)
Very frustrating but I can only put it down to the damp
weather and
conditions in our hanger!
I guess I should look at replacing the HT leads. But
ground run for 45 mins
and a 15 mins flight today and it was as sweet as a
nut.
Kind regards to all
Kev T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
Have any UK owners had a premium renewal demand lately - and if so, by how much
has the premium risen?
Mine comes up soon!
David
G-BZAM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
Those of you who receive the factory newsletter will have seen in the last issue
a suggestion from Ron van Leer in S Africa about flying in his country.
Would any European Europa owner be interested in flying their aircraft out to S
Africa in spring 2004?
This is a very general question at this stage, but if enough were interested, I
might be prepared to help coordinate such a trip.
It would certainly be part of the plan to make use of the facility that Ron offered.
David
G-BZAM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: South Africa 2004 |
David,
Although I am still a "channel Virgin", this sounds very interesting,
although a very daunting prospect. Please keep me updated as, if I can get
up enough courage, I would like to be there.
Peter G-BYIK #154
peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus for all known viruses.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: South Africa 2004
Those of you who receive the factory newsletter will have seen in the last
issue a suggestion from Ron van Leer in S Africa about flying in his
country.
Would any European Europa owner be interested in flying their aircraft out
to S Africa in spring 2004?
This is a very general question at this stage, but if enough were
interested, I might be prepared to help coordinate such a trip.
It would certainly be part of the plan to make use of the facility that Ron
offered.
David
G-BZAM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G-LABS First Flight |
Belated CONGRATULATIONS Carl. I've just returned after a week off so didn't see
your message until now.
It's always gratifying to see yet another Europa make it into the air. I do hope
that you have been wearing a Europa smile lately.
I wish you a straightforward shake-down programme and test flight.
Best regards
Andy Draper
>>> "Carl Pattinson" 11/03/02 09:26pm >>>
G-LABS, Europa Classic No 49 (building commenced in February 1994),
eventually flew for the first time today at Turweston Aerodrome.
Mike Dolphin was at the controls and after a morning of taxying and minor
ajustments, took off and climbed to 2000 ft for a half hour initial
assesment sortie.
Weather conditions not ideal but handling (ground and air) were excellent
and temperatures within limits.
Now all we need is a spell of decent weather to complete the test flying.
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>> Before I start rolling it on, does anyone have any negatives on
smooth prime.
That bit of the Polyfiber system works really well and is really easy to
apply with a closed foam roller. Thin it down 5% with water on the final
rolled coat if you want to save yourself a bit of sanding.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | mates in continental NW Europe? |
Jan,
This does not refer strictly to initial anti-corrosion, but
to ongoing treatment. As a ham, I've been proud owner of a hot zinc steel
triangular, crank-up, tilt-over tower since 1965. It has been out in the
elements from -30 to +40deg C ever since, and has begun to reveal its scars
and sores. I began treating it at the first sign of rust (usually where the
zinc coat has been bashed or scratched) since about 1970.
The treatment was brushing "David's ZINC 182 anti-rust primer - from the
makers of ISOPON". 3 quid per 250 ml. Open rusted parts treated in 1971 have
not needed another coat since and all treated bits still show the pleasant
Grey face when done.
I was so satisfied with the tower I expanded my treatment to
garden furniture and the cars over the years. Inspite of salted roads all
winter and garden stuff left out, none shows any deterioration whatever,
even when thinned to 1/2 by acetone during the "slim" years.
Both the '91 Volvo and the '89 Honda Civic as as new.
More expensive is Fosroc "Galvafroid" which I keep as a backup
but it's never been needed - also rarely stocked.
Both are fairly thick and heavy in character but most
effective - not as original treatment to which you addressed your email -
but as later corrective tasks, such as small chips and scratches, or worn
plating. I am aware it's not what you seek (hope you get a useful answer)
but a hint for down the road.
Happy Landings
Ferg
A064
Original Message -----
From: "Jan de Jong" <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl>
Subject: Chromates in continental NW Europe?
> A question to builders in Denmark, Holland, Belgium, Germany and France:
> what have you done for corrosion prevention?
> After trying hard I have not managed to stumble across a place in the area
> of continental N.W. Europe that sells the environmentally unfriendly
> chromate containing metal surface treatments: - Aluprep / Aluwash / Metal
> Prep / Deoxydine.
> - Alodine / Alocrome,
> - epoxy chromate primer,
> - zinc chromate primer / zinc oxide primer,
> - chromate jointing compound / JC5A / Duralac.
> In the U.S. there is Aircraft Spruce, among others; in the U.K. there is
> Silmid, also among others. But shipping abroad is impossible or very
> expensive.
> Is there a place in the general area of the Netherlands where the nasty
> stuff is sold in small quantities (from under the counter if need be)?
>
> Jan de Jong
> #461
> (now started building in earnest)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
I support Tony K re. Smooth Prime. I have Flaps, Ailerons, Tailplanes
and Rudder painted to final coat on top of Smooth Prime from about a 18
months ago. Although they haven't been flown, they have been fitted and
setup and generally 'man handled' during those operations. No problems
with paint flaking is apparent. The rest of the Aircraft is finished to
Primer stage in Smooth Prime including Wings and Fuselage and it
appears a durable product. It certainly is a b%
er to remove from
Workshop floor or places it isn't meant to be!
Painting so far has been done by a professional Aircraft Finisher and
the results are very good. A non Polyfiber Paint was used.
While we are on Paint can I 'swerve' towards final colours. Anyone got
any arguments' for' or 'against' for using a light silver colour as
final coat for Fuselage. As a colour it doesn't seem to far from the
heat spectrum of 'white'.
Gentle advice please!
Regards
Gerry
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
Gerry,
It may be a better idea to contact the Europa factory
regarding advice of silver instead of white
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Gerry Holland
Subject: smooth prime
I support Tony K re. Smooth Prime. I have Flaps,
Ailerons, Tailplanes
and Rudder painted to final coat on top of Smooth Prime
from about a 18
months ago. Although they haven't been flown, they have
been fitted and
setup and generally 'man handled' during those
operations. No problems
with paint flaking is apparent. The rest of the
Aircraft is finished to
Primer stage in Smooth Prime including Wings and
Fuselage and it
appears a durable product. It certainly is a b%
er to
remove from
Workshop floor or places it isn't meant to be!
Painting so far has been done by a professional
Aircraft Finisher and
the results are very good. A non Polyfiber Paint was
used.
While we are on Paint can I 'swerve' towards final
colours. Anyone got
any arguments' for' or 'against' for using a light
silver colour as
final coat for Fuselage. As a colour it doesn't seem to
far from the
heat spectrum of 'white'.
Gentle advice please!
Regards
Gerry
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
"It may be a better idea to contact the Europa factory
regarding advice of silver instead of white"
Thanks Dean
Have had a brief discussion with Factory but will outline my
specification of Paint and the scheme when decided finally.
Regards
Gerry
EuropaTrigear 384
G-FIZY
Tel No: +44 7808 402404
________________________________________________________________________________
<3DCFDE8C.B6F2B422(at)xs4all.nl>
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chromates in continental NW Europe? |
>- zinc chromate primer
>Is there a place in the general area of the Netherlands where the nasty
>stuff is sold in small quantities
Jan - I got my zinc chromate primer in aerosol cans and a can of
Duralac from Light Aero in UK <http://www.lightaero.co.uk>. I think
they also list Alodine in the most recent catalogue. I don't know if
they supply to elsewhere in Europe. (Maybe a Europa pilot seeking
some foreign travel could be persuaded to buy some here and take it
to you? - just a thought!)
regards
Rowland
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
Hey Steve, I just went and cut a hole to get to the torque tube. When the
unit arrives I'll see if I can get it in without having to cut access for
the main gizmo. I'll have to get me a whip screwdriver. I ran bid tapes on
all the ply supports. There were spider webs in the torque tube compartment,
might as well seal all that up. I was looking at Ralph Hallet's glider
speedbrake instructions and they have you cut a big hole under the pilots
right thigh.
Trim alt hold? Yer gonna fall asleep up there.
Thanks a bunch, build on, Kevin
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of ScramIt(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Digitrack
Kevin, I've seen other builders with panels cut in the seat. When I bond
my
cockpit module in I think I'm going to run two tapes of bid on the lower
thigh supports. That will complete the "box" and keep anything from
shifting.
If anyone was wondering how I get the unit in and out. I have a screwdriver
with a flexible shaft and the screws are allens. I just put the whip on the
allen, and out, or in, it goes.
I was thinking of building an E-Z trim altitude hold device this winter.
http://hometown.aol.com/ccady/eztrim.htm
I keep going back and forth on the idea, but I have 90% of the parts laying
around the house in robots I've built. Hmmmm... still deciding.....
SteveD.
I use to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
Dave:
UV smooth prime has a pretty good history as least as far as I have heard.
I have done the flight controls and wings. The Fill is good, easily sanded
and no pin holes. I have not painted over it yet. Some have said that it is
a good idea to do the priming and let it settle in a good long time before
putting on the top coat. My initial prime is probably going to be on a
year and a half befor painting. My plan is to lightly resand the whole
mess then re roll on the prime with a final sprayed on prime before going
with the top coat paint.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: <Dave_Miller(at)ca.cgugroup.com>
> Date: 11/11/02 7:46:13 AM
> Subject: smooth prime
>
> Before I start rolling it on, does anyone have any negatives on smooth
> prime.
> Are there any other options for a base coat ?
>
> Dave A061 ( slowly getting there)
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>> My plan is to lightly resand the whole mess then re roll on the prime
with a final sprayed on prime before going with the top coat paint.
You could always cover it in Top Gloss for the year and a half and then
simply peel it off to leave good primer.
grrrrrrrrr!
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Chromates in continental NW Europe? |
>Is there a place in the general area of the Netherlands where the nasty
>stuff is sold in small quantities (from under the counter if need be)?
>
>Jan de Jong
>#461
>(now started building in earnest)
Jan,
Might be worth having a look in France, I know Alodyne can be bought there.
(Ask Jerry Davis where,)
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
>While we are on Paint can I 'swerve' towards final colours. Anyone got any
>arguments' for' or 'against' for using a light silver colour as final coat
>for Fuselage. As a colour it doesn't seem to far from the heat spectrum of
>'white'.
>Gerry
There are one or two silver planes about. Glenn's gorgeous Berkut for one.
However silver is a bit disappointing in that it doesn't seem to reflect
the heat as well as I for one thought it would. Should be OK on the lower
half of the fuselage although dark colours do seem to suffer from heat
effects. They tend to show stress wrinkles.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JW <xs191(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digitrak / Digiflight |
So... All you folks who purchased the Digitrak didn't consider the
Digiflight?
JW wrote:
> Hello all.
>
> I have a question about these Trutrak systems. I see everyone
> talking about the Digitrak, and not about the Digiflight. Is the
> additional cost the only reason everyone is installing the Digitrak, and
> not the Digiflight?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
| From: | "James H. Nelson" <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Dave,
I used smooth prime to do the filling and getting it nice and
smooth. When I was ready to paint, I called them up and asked about it.
They said to use the manufacturers primer and then their top coat. So I
used PPG Concept primer and then their urethane top coat. Went to the
paint store and went through their chips and tried to find the whitest
white. Ended up using a Mercedes white but I think next time I would go
around to the used car lots and new car lots and find a white I liked.
Mine is still nice and white tho. (20 hrs and counting)
Jim Nelson
N15JN
> Before I start rolling it on, does anyone have any negatives on
> smooth
> prime.
> Are there any other options for a base coat ?
>
> Dave A061 ( slowly getting there)
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
Subject: Top Gloss
>
>
>
> For those that are considering Top Gloss, I have just moved from.. be
> careful .. to .. avoid the product at all costs..
>
> After six months of battling with Top Gloss I discovered a surface
> separation just at the back of the fin. I peeled this back and within
> ten minutes there was no surface paint left on my fuselage. The entire
> coating came off in large sheets with very little effort leaving me with
> a fuselage in Smooth Prime primer.
>
> Having now made the decision to have the plane commercially painted I
> repeated the process on my flying surfaces. By the end of the afternoon
> I had peeled off the paint from both stabilators, one flap and one
> aileron .. all with little more than my fingernails and the edge of a
> knife.
>
> Once I have done all of the surfaces I am going to pack up all the mess
> and post it to Polyfiber and tell them what I think of the product!
>
> All told I probably wasted 250 hours of work using Top Gloss.
>
> Tony
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TroyMaynor(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
In a message dated 11/11/02 3:44:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk writes:
<<
While we are on Paint can I 'swerve' towards final colours. Anyone got
any arguments' for' or 'against' for using a light silver colour as
final coat for Fuselage. As a colour it doesn't seem to far from the
heat spectrum of 'white'. >>
I don't know much about this but doesn't silver have a certain amount of
"metal" in it that might affect radio performance when using internal
antennas? I thought I read that a long time ago in a galaxy far far away.
Troy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
The polyurethanes (like Imron) can have a flexibilizer added, so much to the
point that they can be used on fabric converings. In the automotive world, they
are flexibilized to be used on the bumpers. Very little is needed - a few drops
per quart/litre. It does not take away from the strength of the bond, but helps
a lot with the dings and age cracks.
Thanks for bringing this up - I've got my paint but didn't think to get the
flexibilizer for it. Don't know if it works with clear coat, will have to
check. FWIW, I'm planning to paint in a very lightly violet tinted white
opalescent. Actually has bits of mica in it - reported by the mfg to have very
good (or poor as the case may be) heat retention. Both from being a light color
and from the mica which creates the opalescence. Of course, it is a heavier
finish & with the addition of the clear coat.
Big day yesterday - finally bonded the top on, after using the 'splash' mod and
doing as much as I could before putting the top on.
Cleve Lee
A198 Mono XS Jabiru 3300
On Mon, 11 Nov 2002, Fred Fillinger wrote:
>
> "Tony S. Krzyzewski" wrote:
> >
> > ... By the end of the afternoon
> > I had peeled off the paint from both stabilators, one flap and one
> > aileron .. all with little more than my fingernails and the edge of a
> > knife.
> >
> > Once I have done all of the surfaces I am going to pack up all the mess
> > and post it to Polyfiber and tell them what I think of the product!
>
> Saddening to hear that, but you _know_ what their reply will be! :-)
>
> I tested an identical product, System Three, on a stab and the
> firewall, but won't use it...or any poly now, water or solvent. Poly
> is too hard, a bear to compund/buff, and difficult to spot repair. And
> yes even staining, from a rusty washer and the rubber on an Adel
> clamp. But unable to bird-crap-test, but no bets on grass and
> blueberries in the diet.
>
> I recently repaired an accident-damged STOL wingtip for someone,
> finishing in acrylic base/clear and was reminded how much easier it
> is, with equivalent gloss. In a recent issue of Sport Aviation,
> expert Ron Alexander opined a caution about poly on fiberglass - can
> be overly stiff he says. The Imron on the other plane is 15 years
> old, and the fiberglass parts started showing signs of failure at
> about age 10. Especially the parts exposed to both engine heat and
> sun, like the fiberglass nose bowl - dulling and mud-cracking, but not
> the aluminum top cowl so exposed, nor even plastic elsewhere. Who
> knows why that is, but I now figure the shorter longevity of acrylic
> enamel isn't a problem, as a finicky paint that outlasts dings,
> abrasions, and stains doesn't now seem to make much sense.
>
> Best,
> Fred F.
> The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Digitrak / Digiflight |
I was looking at the EFS one, but I just couldn't get past having everything
in one box. So I special ordered an EFS lite, Kmd-150, I was going to order
the navaid wing leveler, I helped install one in a Cozy, nice unit, Then I
saw the digitrak and preordered it. I was pushing the budget as it was so I
didn't look at much else.
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
In a message dated 11/11/2002 4:42:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz writes:
> You could always cover it in Top Gloss for the year and a half and then
> simply peel it off to leave good primer.
>
> grrrrrrrrr!
>
>
Hey Tony,
I once talked to a Europa builder who had the problem with top gloss and ploy
fiber paid to have his airplane repainted -- even using another product. You
might be able to do a similar thing. If you go that route, poly fiber sells a
solvent based top coat that is supposed to work well. I am avoiding the toxic
fumes myself. Today, I have all but the port wing and the fuselage to finish
coat. I have worked about 50 hours in the last 4 days. I just did the wing
and it sure is hard to get the finish right. I can't draw conclusions until
the paint has cured for several days. Right now it look s terrible at about 2
hours out. I just make sure I have "enough" paint applied and hope for the
best.
I am using aircraft finishing systems 2 part polyurethane water borne finish
coat and their primer underneath (on top of smooth prime). I can't wait to
get this over with - I must say I don't care for the finishing work!
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eamonn Sheridan <ESheridan(at)telepub.co.uk> |
David
Our insurance (renewed this month) on a XS Tri Gear has risen from 1448 to
1837, however that was after shopping around. Same broker, different
Insurance company.
Eamonn
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Insurance
Have any UK owners had a premium renewal demand lately - and if so, by how
much has the premium risen?
Mine comes up soon!
David
G-BZAM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: smooth prime |
> Ended up using a Mercedes white but I think next time I would go
>around to the used car lots and new car lots and find a white I liked.
>Mine is still nice and white tho. (20 hrs and counting)
> Jim Nelson
I always use "Base White". No tint, so it is easy to match if/when a repair
is needed. Doesn't fade either.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
Recent posting contained the flwg:
" Anyone got any arguments' for' or 'against' for using a light
silver colour as final coat for Fuselage. As a colour it doesn't seem to
far from the heat spectrum of 'white'.
Gentle advice please! "
I, too, have considered this (on the entire aircraft), after having admired
an absolutely beautifully finished Berkut (?) at Cranfield last June. I
talked briefly with Andy Draper about it. He did not rule it out, but said
that I needed to measure the temperature in the underlying structure on some
test samples before a conclusion could be made. I guess such tests could
introduce quite a few uncertainties if not carried out very scientifically.
On my return from Cranfield, I made a qualitative test on cars at the
airport parking lot. White cars had a cool feeling when I placed my hand
flat on the roof or the hood. Silver metallic cars were considerably
warmer, noticeably warmer than my body temperature, even on a light overcast
day. Checked out various shades of silver metallic and different car makes,
same thing. My conclusion is that even light silver metallic paint absorbs
much more heat into the underlying surface than does plain white paint.
Green and red cars were warmer than the silver metallic ones, but not by a
whole lot. No yellow cars in sight, so I cannot give subjective comparisons
with that colour. I have also talked to Bob Berube at Flight Crafters, who
definitely recommended against using metallic paint. So: I will stick with
normal white paint.
I would, however, be very interested if anyone locates a silver metallic
(possibly in combination with filler/primer/top gloss) that indeed reflects
heat almost as well as white paint does.
Regards to all,
Svein K. Johnsen
A225 (now in Norway)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JW <xs191(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Digitrak / Digiflight |
Steve.
Yeah, I don't understand why the DigiFlight 100 is so much more money than
the DigiTrak. $2575 as compared to $1795, and that's without the GPS Steering
feature. I like the fact that the DigiFlight unit is upgradable to the 200, or
200VS. Even though those options about double what is already a bunch of
money. They're beyond my budget, but I was wondering if anyone else had
selected the DigiFlight route.
Jeff
ScramIt(at)aol.com wrote:
> I was looking at the EFS one, but I just couldn't get past having everything
> in one box. So I special ordered an EFS lite, Kmd-150, I was going to order
> the navaid wing leveler, I helped install one in a Cozy, nice unit, Then I
> saw the digitrak and preordered it. I was pushing the budget as it was so I
> didn't look at much else.
> SteveD
> A217
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Chromates in continental NW Europe? |
I have some allodine powder left. A couple of 1 kg batches. It was bought
some time ago but I guess it's still OK. I used some the other day and it
seemed to work OK. Contact me direct if you want some.
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Chromates in continental NW Europe?
> >Is there a place in the general area of the Netherlands where the nasty
> >stuff is sold in small quantities (from under the counter if need be)?
> >
> >Jan de Jong
> >#461
> >(now started building in earnest)
>
> Jan,
> Might be worth having a look in France, I know Alodyne can be bought
there.
> (Ask Jerry Davis where,)
> Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
David
Our insurance (renewed this month) on a XS Tri Gear has risen from 1448 to
1837, however that was after shopping around. Same broker, different
Insurance company.
Eamonn
Many thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | gear landing behaviour question |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Although I'm planning on building a mono, I have a friend who is
getting ready for his tri-gear maiden flight (using an experienced
relatively local Europa flyer as the test pilot). He had heard that the
Tri-gear has a 'bouncy nose wheel' when compared to other type of
aircraft.
I was wondering if this was true, and if so, what special techniques are
used when landing (besides holding it off as one would want to do
anyway).
Cheers and thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tri-gear landing behaviour question |
| From: | "Cripps, David" <david.cripps(at)spsystems.com> |
I have not found this to be a problem at all. However, the weight on the nosewheel
of my Europa is pretty light as my CG is fairly well aft at most loading conditions
(you can easily lift the nosewheel off the ground by hand or by leaning
on the fuselage just forward of the tail fin.
I only notice the effect of this when flying with a fully aft CG on bumpy grass
strips (such as my home base) where, on hitting a bump the nose can pitch up
quite easily. It doesn't seem to trouble the nosewheel but can make for a bit
of a 'bucking bronco' ride.
The effect is worse if you land fast, but I don't think the springiness of the
nosewheel leg or tyre is causing the effect.
David
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Tri-gear landing behaviour question
Although I'm planning on building a mono, I have a friend who is
getting ready for his tri-gear maiden flight (using an experienced
relatively local Europa flyer as the test pilot). He had heard that the
Tri-gear has a 'bouncy nose wheel' when compared to other type of
aircraft.
I was wondering if this was true, and if so, what special techniques are
used when landing (besides holding it off as one would want to do
anyway).
Cheers and thanks,
Pete
**********************************************************************************************
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tri-gear landing behaviour question |
Peter,
The Tri-gear has no rebound damping in the nose-leg but this does not mean you
will experience anything other than a very smooth landing. The all flying elevator
gives plenty of control authority and enables the nose-wheel to be held off
until almost at walking speed. Anyone can 'grease' it (almost!) every time
- just fly it like a tail-dragger and not a spam can.
Regards
Mark A.Waite
Europa Management International Limited
www.europa-aircraft.com
>>> "Peter Zutrauen" 12/11/02 15:28:42 >>>
Although I'm planning on building a mono, I have a friend who is
getting ready for his tri-gear maiden flight (using an experienced
relatively local Europa flyer as the test pilot). He had heard that the
Tri-gear has a 'bouncy nose wheel' when compared to other type of
aircraft.
I was wondering if this was true, and if so, what special techniques are
used when landing (besides holding it off as one would want to do
anyway).
Cheers and thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tri-gear landing behaviour question |
| From: | "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com> |
Peter,
I have been flying my tri gear for 250 hours and can assure folks that I have not
experienced any "bouncy nose wheel" characteristics. Of course, you don't
want to land nose wheel first. You land the Europa tri gear just as you would
any other tri gear airplane.........hold it off in a slightly nose high attitude
until the main gear settles. Then slowly lower the nose until the nose gear
touches down. No problems!
Garry V. Stout
District Manager, AT&T Business Services
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Tri-gear landing behaviour question
Although I'm planning on building a mono, I have a friend who is
getting ready for his tri-gear maiden flight (using an experienced
relatively local Europa flyer as the test pilot). He had heard that the
Tri-gear has a 'bouncy nose wheel' when compared to other type of
aircraft.
I was wondering if this was true, and if so, what special techniques are
used when landing (besides holding it off as one would want to do
anyway).
Cheers and thanks,
Pete
October 27, 2002 - November 12, 2002
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ct