Europa-Archive.digest.vol-cw
December 18, 2002 - January 08, 2003
On Tue, 17 Dec 2002, Graham Singleton wrote:
>
> Evening All,
> I thought this might be of interest, it came up on the canard forum.
> Interesting what he says about metal cans. Sounds logical to me too
> Graham
>
> NOT PROPER TERMINOLOGY
> Please stop throwing around the words "Plastic Can". If the container is an
> approved plastic type container it is NOT the type of plastic you would get
> for say food storage. The container does have a CONDUCTIVE nature to it that
> is there to drain/bleed off static charges.
> That does not mean a spark, a match or a dumb idiot with a cigarette will not
> cause the gas to ignite.
> Will a Static Spark cause the gas to ignite even if it were in a steel can?
> YES!
> A steel can is even MORE susceptible to SPARKING. Do you know why? Because
> it does NOT Drain/Bleed off the static, it COLLECTS the charge in ONE LARGE
> DISCHARGE.
> Remember Ohm's Law, if the Resistance decreases the current will increase and
> since Static is NOT a fixed voltage if the resistance decreases and the spark
> gap remainds the same the Voltage will increase. It is the Voltage that
> bridges the gap and it is the voltage that when added to the fule/air mixture
> things go boom!
> For those so prone to follow their OLD military ways... Have you checked to
> see what the military is using today? PLASTIC... Conductive Plastic!
> For as much as you try to teach, and Yes, even litigate you cannot make
> everyone safe. There is not enough pen & ink in the world to do that. There
> is such a thing as the Darwin Awards, maybe it is the Law of Nature fighting
> back against litigation and redundant emails to insure only future
> generations that use their God given gray mater will survive.
> I'm sure we ALL can agree that sparks, matches or a dumb idiot with a
> cigarette, can and will ignite gas and start forest fires. But lets STOP
> with the Flagrant use of the word Plastic. Pay attention to the Proper
> Fueling Procedures. Even fuel pumps have rubber hoses ... Conductive Rubber
> hoses.
> For the fun of it check out the term ESD and ESD Procedures.
> (Electro-Static Discharge)
>
> Barry
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing alignment |
Bill,
I had problems getting my wings lined up. I lined them up perfectly,
reduxed the spar guides in place then discovered that I had ended up with
an1/8th inch gap between the seat back & the port spar. After consulting
with the factory, I bonded several of the thin washers supplied to take up
the gap under the pip pin head, onto the seat back and covered them with a
layer or two of bid. In seeking to find out how the problem had occurred I
discovered that the seat back of the cockpit module is not quite parallel to
the firewall. The end job however is OK. The wings have the correct sweep,
are exactly parallel to the tailplane torque tube and the firewall.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
Bill, I think the question of wing sweep is misleading. IMHO there is only
one place to fit the wings and that is with the spars tight up against each
other and tha rear of the cockpit module. Any gap between spars or module
seems to be putting an unreasonable load on the spar pins inviting failure.
If you fiddle around with the wing tips getting the sweep measurements
precisely equal you can easily end up with a half inch gap between seatback
and spar, which is what happened to me on my first attempt. Having cut off
the pin sockets and thought about it I then fitted them with blocks pushing
the spars forward onto the cockpit module. This resulted in a 1cm
discrepancy in the wingtip to tail measurements on the two wings, which I
think is of no consequence, and much preferable to a gap between spar and
module. Happy Xmas, David Joyce
----- Original Message -----
From: Wil McClellan <wilmac(at)gte.net>
Subject: Wing alignment
> In setting up the wings for correct angle of incidence (2.5 deg +or - .05)
> is simple enough to accomplish but I have a potential problem with the
> forward and aft sweep. Holding the fuselage in place I can put adequate
> pressure to get the wing sweep corrected but I question that even with the
> pin sockets properly set including the rear pin tie bar inplace, the wings
> won't still return to at least some of the incorrect sweep. Both my wings
> are about equal in rearward sweep. This will put the tie bar in
> compression. I estimate I have to put 6-7 pounds of forward pressure on
the
> wing tips to get the correct position. Maybe this ultimately will be
> corrected out with the tie bar but has anyone found they had to do extra
> correction for this problem.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill McClellan
> A164
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching trim tab |
>With the hinges attached to the trim tabs, is there a good way to
>clamp these hinges to the trailing edge of the tailplane while
>drilling holes for the bolts
Andrew - sorry to be so long replying, hope it may still be relevant.
I checked back in my journal and found that I bandsawed a piece of
wood to the shape of the hinge recess so as to hold the hinge against
the face of the flange while drilling. The two tailplanes closeouts
were slightly different sizes so I had to use thin shims or wedges to
get it fitting firmly. I also found it essential to restrain the
whole tailplane (a temporary fence across the back of the layup
table), as I was pushing the trim-tab against the tailplane to
maintain its position while drilling. The tab had to be tilted up a
bit because the wood occupied the space where the tab LE belongs at
neutral. It's important to use new or properly resharpened drill bits
for making holes in those hinges as the material seems quite hard!
Hope that all makes some sense.
regards
Rowland
| PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
| Europa builder #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
Karim - karkel(at)aol.com
Please contact me off the forum, I have your pressure switch but your email address
does not seem to work.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing alignment |
Hi All, I am setting the wings to fuse now. I don't see anything in the
manual about the spars being tight up to the seat back, or in the case of
the stbd side, against the port spar steel cup. Getting sweep set equal
seems to be bending the spars for and aft a little. Also the port front pin
socket does not have room to be free of inward pressure on the fuse even
after milling .125 off of the wing root seated end of the socket and
grinding through 4 layers of bid on the fuse. Any thoughts?
Kevin A211 to be N211KA
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Richard
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
Bill,
I had problems getting my wings lined up. I lined them up perfectly,
reduxed the spar guides in place then discovered that I had ended up with
an1/8th inch gap between the seat back & the port spar. After consulting
with the factory, I bonded several of the thin washers supplied to take up
the gap under the pip pin head, onto the seat back and covered them with a
layer or two of bid. In seeking to find out how the problem had occurred I
discovered that the seat back of the cockpit module is not quite parallel to
the firewall. The end job however is OK. The wings have the correct sweep,
are exactly parallel to the tailplane torque tube and the firewall.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
Bill, I think the question of wing sweep is misleading. IMHO there is only
one place to fit the wings and that is with the spars tight up against each
other and tha rear of the cockpit module. Any gap between spars or module
seems to be putting an unreasonable load on the spar pins inviting failure.
If you fiddle around with the wing tips getting the sweep measurements
precisely equal you can easily end up with a half inch gap between seatback
and spar, which is what happened to me on my first attempt. Having cut off
the pin sockets and thought about it I then fitted them with blocks pushing
the spars forward onto the cockpit module. This resulted in a 1cm
discrepancy in the wingtip to tail measurements on the two wings, which I
think is of no consequence, and much preferable to a gap between spar and
module. Happy Xmas, David Joyce
----- Original Message -----
From: Wil McClellan <wilmac(at)gte.net>
Subject: Wing alignment
> In setting up the wings for correct angle of incidence (2.5 deg +or - .05)
> is simple enough to accomplish but I have a potential problem with the
> forward and aft sweep. Holding the fuselage in place I can put adequate
> pressure to get the wing sweep corrected but I question that even with the
> pin sockets properly set including the rear pin tie bar inplace, the wings
> won't still return to at least some of the incorrect sweep. Both my wings
> are about equal in rearward sweep. This will put the tie bar in
> compression. I estimate I have to put 6-7 pounds of forward pressure on
the
> wing tips to get the correct position. Maybe this ultimately will be
> corrected out with the tie bar but has anyone found they had to do extra
> correction for this problem.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill McClellan
> A164
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Europa Aircraft" <europa(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | rior Kit - request info from the group |
Hi All,
I have gotten a lot of inquires from the group off list about the interior
kit offered by the Lakeland, FL office.
Most were asking about price, appearence etc... The kits, like your
airplanes, are custom made to fit your taste. I haven't sold two that look
alike yet. If you don't have a preference for stiles etc... we would be
happy to use the same pattern that went into our tri-gear demonstrator
N912EA. That kit would be $1,400. We will still need measurements from
your particular airplane after compleation.
The kits start at $1,400. When you are ready, contact John in the Lakeland
office (863)647-5355. I will have our interior man contact you to get
measurements, he will also send fabric samples to you so you can pick out
the colors, and types of materials. He will help you design a style that
fits your taste, and size. Weight is dependant on the type of fabric that
you specify.
When the kit is compleated, it will be sent to you from Lakeland. It is
simple to install, and "fits like a glove" to quote a builder who ordered
one. Instillation is also availaible at Flightcrafters.
Finally, a word of advice that I have picked up from our builders. Do not
install the interior kit untill you have flown the plane for about 40 hrs.
It will get in the way, and possibly get damaged as you work the final bugs
out of your plane during the flight test period. If you have the kit, just
use the seats untill you are confident that your plane has the snags worked
out.
Thanks!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland,FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Starting Rotax 914 |
| From: | "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com> |
Winter has finally settled in and air temperatures are often in the low 50's (F)
in the morning. I am finding that it is impossible to start my Rotax 914 when
the temperature is below 65 (F). I've tried every combination of choke and
throttle position imaginable, and nothing works. As soon as the temperature
warms up, it starts instantly. Has anyone experienced a similar situation and
do you have any suggestions? A fellow Europa flier at my airport had the same
condition on his 914 powered Europa, and never was able to solve the problem.
He finally sold the plane. In case you're wondering, I even tried spraying
"ether" (automotive starting fluid) into the air filter inlet of the turbocharger.........with
no luck. Suggestions would be very welcome as I'm not able
to fly my plane at this time of year.
Regards,
Garry V. Stout
N4220S Trigear
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
Garry,
The temperature shouldn't affect the engine itself, as such but there's a possibility
that your battery may be affected by the cold. We've been operating three
914 powered aircraft lately at sub freezing temperatures and all have started
without problems. Next time you try to start, boost the battery with another
and see if that makes a difference.
From cold, the 914 ( and 912(S)) engine must be started with the throttle FULLY
closed and full choke. A slightly open throttle will negate the choke effect
to an extent. This is less critical in warmer temperatures I've found. Hope
this helps.
Merry Christmas
Andy
>>> "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" 12/19/02 03:24pm >>>
Winter has finally settled in and air temperatures are often in the low 50's (F)
in the morning. I am finding that it is impossible to start my Rotax 914 when
the temperature is below 65 (F). I've tried every combination of choke and
throttle position imaginable, and nothing works. As soon as the temperature
warms up, it starts instantly. Has anyone experienced a similar situation and
do you have any suggestions? A fellow Europa flier at my airport had the same
condition on his 914 powered Europa, and never was able to solve the problem.
He finally sold the plane. In case you're wondering, I even tried spraying
"ether" (automotive starting fluid) into the air filter inlet of the turbocharger.........with
no luck. Suggestions would be very welcome as I'm not able
to fly my plane at this time of year.
Regards,
Garry V. Stout
N4220S Trigear
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
clevelee(at)cswebmail.com wrote:
>
> ...I've installed a 16 ga ground wire from the filler
> aluminum cap neck (had to cut out the filler neck to allow room for the terminal
> secured to a flat made in the threads of the aluminum part) and have installed
> the 1 watt 1 meg ohm resister that is recommended en-rout to the engine ground.
To save shopping time, a 1/2-watt resistor is much more common and
sufficient. The average static spark event we experience is just
barely enough to ignite fuel vapor, and equates to a couple watts for
a few milliseconds. Converted to heat, a 1/8-watt resistor would
barely notice it, nor is #16 wire similarly called for - dealing in
microamps here, else the static shocks that we feel would be lethal!
Although it may be harmless, does anyone have an authoritative source
stating this resistor is beneficial? The only such sources I can find
say that the resistance of electrical bonding (here from the filler
cap thru like the exhaust pipe) to the fuel source should be 20K or
less. Why do we want to increase this to 1 meg??
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Dawson" <mtd(at)ilkley.fsbusiness.co.uk> |
I have a long range tank for a monowheel for sale. It has not been used at
all and is complete except for one or two small pipe fittings,and the tie
down straps, obtainable from Europa. List now 165 - will post to you P & P
paid for 115.
Michael Dawson Bldr 95.
----- Original Message -----
From: "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net>
Subject: Re: Europas on top in France
> Alan, I think James Bond has a certain amount to answer for! I also have
> dreamed of landing at Courcheval Altiport and then skiing down the
mountain.
> I have gone some way to making it possible, and would have taken my Europa
> there this summer had not the Mistral been blowing down the Rhone at 60
kts!
> Certainly you need an altiport endorsement for landing on any of their
> sloping runway altiports and it needs to be current(within 6 months of
exam
> or actual landings, I believe.) Details in the French Bottlang. It isn't
> however too difficult to get an endorsement. I happened on a school of
> altiport flying while on a skiing holiday at Alpe d'Huez. There is an
> absolutely cracking young female instructor there with dark brown eyes and
> hair down to her waist (who would have given me serious trouble had I been
a
> bit younger!) A couple of hours flying gave me a reasonable introduction
to
> the principles of mountain flying and sufficient circuits to satisfy her
> that I would pass the test (basically a few landings with a local
examiner)
> and it was brilliant fun, some of the very best flying ever, quite apart
> from the company! I forget how much it cost but I think it was a bit
cheaper
> than English flying school rates and worth every penny!You can also
organise
> training and check outs at Grenoble and no doubt at other flat valley
floor
> airfields on the border of the Alps.Happy Xmas David Joyce----- Original
> Message -----
> From: Alan D Stewart <alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
> Subject: Europas on top in France
>
>
> > Having just received the Dec 2002 (Issue 36) Europa News, I noticed on
> > page 15 that one Remi Guerner has succesfully flown his French
> > registered aircraft onto a number of mountain strips in France.
> >
> > For a number of years, I've dreamed of the opportunity to do exactly
> > this. La Rosiere and Courchevel/Meribel are exactly where I would like
> > to be on a calm weekend during a stable weather window over the next few
> > months.
> >
> > I had assumed that piloting my own aircraft would not be permitted due
> > to the local requirement that visitors possess a 'French Mountain
> > Licence', verifying their competence in the prevailing conditions. This
> > would be time consuming and costly to obtain.
> >
> > Are there circumstances where this requirement is waived ? Last years'
> > 'Guide Delage' suggests not, but perhaps I'm in error ?
> >
> > Remi, please get in touch, or alternatively does anyone know of his
> > personal email ?
> >
> > An arial shortcut to the Alps during the skiing season. Now that would
> > be a great Christmas present !
> >
> > Alan
> > BWFX
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wil McClellan" <wilmac(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing alignment |
Kevin,
I am at the same point and am having just about the same problem. I don't
have enough room for the socket to fit between the port wing root and the
fuselage side. I am considering trimming 1/32 to 1/16 off the black
aluminum socket, though I don't like doing this. I don't believe it is a
good idea to trim down any of the glass around the pin in the wing as this
might compromise the strength of the aluminum plate inserted into the root.
Though as I consider it, it might be safe to take a little of the glass from
around the pin if only an area just enough to accept the socket. My port
pin actually protrudes through the fuselage skin slightly into the cockpit.
I have checked for interference inside the spar tunnel and found none. To
get my wings inline with the string stretched tip to tip, I have to pressure
or load the wings forward moving then about 1 to 1 1/2 inch at the tip.
This requires about 5 pounds pressure at the tips. This translates to maybe
4-5 times as much at the rear pin putting it in compression. Andy at Europa
suggests that I pin the two wings together separate from the fuselage to see
if the wings align without any fore or aft sweep. Mine are pretty true.
When I measuring from the forward wing tips to the aft most center of
fuselage (when the angle of incidence and sweep is set) the measurement is
3/8 inch closer on the starboard side. I figure this last dimension is
important but the least important of these settings.
Bill McClellan
A164
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
> Hi All, I am setting the wings to fuse now. I don't see anything in the
> manual about the spars being tight up to the seat back, or in the case of
> the stbd side, against the port spar steel cup. Getting sweep set equal
> seems to be bending the spars for and aft a little. Also the port front
pin
> socket does not have room to be free of inward pressure on the fuse even
> after milling .125 off of the wing root seated end of the socket and
> grinding through 4 layers of bid on the fuse. Any thoughts?
> Kevin A211 to be N211KA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Behalf Of Richard
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
> Bill,
>
> I had problems getting my wings lined up. I lined them up perfectly,
> reduxed the spar guides in place then discovered that I had ended up with
> an1/8th inch gap between the seat back & the port spar. After consulting
> with the factory, I bonded several of the thin washers supplied to take up
> the gap under the pip pin head, onto the seat back and covered them with a
> layer or two of bid. In seeking to find out how the problem had occurred I
> discovered that the seat back of the cockpit module is not quite parallel
to
> the firewall. The end job however is OK. The wings have the correct
sweep,
> are exactly parallel to the tailplane torque tube and the firewall.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
>
> Bill, I think the question of wing sweep is misleading. IMHO there is only
> one place to fit the wings and that is with the spars tight up against
each
> other and tha rear of the cockpit module. Any gap between spars or module
> seems to be putting an unreasonable load on the spar pins inviting
failure.
> If you fiddle around with the wing tips getting the sweep measurements
> precisely equal you can easily end up with a half inch gap between
seatback
> and spar, which is what happened to me on my first attempt. Having cut off
> the pin sockets and thought about it I then fitted them with blocks
pushing
> the spars forward onto the cockpit module. This resulted in a 1cm
> discrepancy in the wingtip to tail measurements on the two wings, which I
> think is of no consequence, and much preferable to a gap between spar and
> module. Happy Xmas, David Joyce
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wil McClellan <wilmac(at)gte.net>
> Subject: Wing alignment
>
>
> > In setting up the wings for correct angle of incidence (2.5 deg +or -
.05)
> > is simple enough to accomplish but I have a potential problem with the
> > forward and aft sweep. Holding the fuselage in place I can put adequate
> > pressure to get the wing sweep corrected but I question that even with
the
> > pin sockets properly set including the rear pin tie bar inplace, the
wings
> > won't still return to at least some of the incorrect sweep. Both my
wings
> > are about equal in rearward sweep. This will put the tie bar in
> > compression. I estimate I have to put 6-7 pounds of forward pressure on
> the
> > wing tips to get the correct position. Maybe this ultimately will be
> > corrected out with the tie bar but has anyone found they had to do extra
> > correction for this problem.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill McClellan
> > A164
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
I think that the 1meg ohm resistor is really only necessary when you are
working with high voltages with appreciable current. It is used to prevent you
from giving yourself a nasty shock from mains supplies whilst working on, say
computer equipment etc. There is only 12v on the plane (unless you play with
the HT system whilst the engine is running, but that would be silly:-)
Ed
Turned the engine over last week on its starter. (Trust me, it is a big step
for us)!!!!!
Quoting Fred Fillinger :
> clevelee(at)cswebmail.com wrote:
> >
> > ...I've installed a 16 ga ground wire from the filler
> > aluminum cap neck (had to cut out the filler neck to allow room for the
> terminal
> > secured to a flat made in the threads of the aluminum part) and have
> installed
> > the 1 watt 1 meg ohm resister that is recommended en-rout to the engine
> ground.
>
> To save shopping time, a 1/2-watt resistor is much more common and
> sufficient. The average static spark event we experience is just
> barely enough to ignite fuel vapor, and equates to a couple watts for
> a few milliseconds. Converted to heat, a 1/8-watt resistor would
> barely notice it, nor is #16 wire similarly called for - dealing in
> microamps here, else the static shocks that we feel would be lethal!
>
> Although it may be harmless, does anyone have an authoritative source
> stating this resistor is beneficial? The only such sources I can find
> say that the resistance of electrical bonding (here from the filler
> cap thru like the exhaust pipe) to the fuel source should be 20K or
> less. Why do we want to increase this to 1 meg??
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
---------------------------------------------------
This mail sent through http://www.easynetdial.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
When hooking up a ground wire system internal to the aircraft you want good
connections so that all the static energy is released when grounded. But you
want a resistor attached to the external ground wire to prevent a spark when
you touch it to the aircraft. The resistor allows for a slow drain (on the
order of no more than 1/2 a second) of the built up energy. But keep in mind
that the soldered connection of the resistor is a fail point that needs to be
checked on a regular basis. Since you no longer will see any spark when
connecting, you won't know if it's working or not.
Mike
A207
Redding, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
| From: | "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com> |
Thanks Andy,
I hadn't tried the fully closed throttle position yet. I'll try that soon. With
respect to the battery, it's good and strong, and turns the engine over as
quickly as if the temperature was "normal".
Thanks again.
Garry V. Stout
District Manager, AT&T Business Services
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
Garry,
The temperature shouldn't affect the engine itself, as such but there's a possibility
that your battery may be affected by the cold. We've been operating three
914 powered aircraft lately at sub freezing temperatures and all have started
without problems. Next time you try to start, boost the battery with another
and see if that makes a difference.
From cold, the 914 ( and 912(S)) engine must be started with the throttle FULLY
closed and full choke. A slightly open throttle will negate the choke effect
to an extent. This is less critical in warmer temperatures I've found. Hope
this helps.
Merry Christmas
Andy
>>> "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" 12/19/02 03:24pm >>>
Winter has finally settled in and air temperatures are often in the low 50's (F)
in the morning. I am finding that it is impossible to start my Rotax 914 when
the temperature is below 65 (F). I've tried every combination of choke and
throttle position imaginable, and nothing works. As soon as the temperature
warms up, it starts instantly. Has anyone experienced a similar situation and
do you have any suggestions? A fellow Europa flier at my airport had the same
condition on his 914 powered Europa, and never was able to solve the problem.
He finally sold the plane. In case you're wondering, I even tried spraying
"ether" (automotive starting fluid) into the air filter inlet of the turbocharger.........with
no luck. Suggestions would be very welcome as I'm not able
to fly my plane at this time of year.
Regards,
Garry V. Stout
N4220S Trigear
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | europa-builder(at)ntlworld.com |
| Subject: | ks to Nigel Charles |
Many thanks to Nigel Charles for his article in the PFA magazine. It was
nice to see the article, which clarified some of the ideas I've seen on this
mailing list.
Cheers,
Mark.
________________________________
Mark Jackson - +44 (0)7050 645590
europa-builder(at)ntlworld.com
http://harley.pcl.ox.ac.uk/~mark/Europa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing alignment |
Bill, Neville told me that trimming 1/8" off the socket is OK. The pin is
not at exactly a right angle to the wing root on mine. A friend is a
engineer/machinist looked at it and we took off .125 at the center at an
angle that gave .150 at the rear and .100 front of socket. Now when I slip
the socket on the pin it mates nice and even to the wing root. However with
the wings set properly I still have a bit pressure on the socket from the
fuse side where I believe we should have a 1mm free space before redux? And
this is since I ground through the four layers of bid on the outside of the
fuse in the shape of the socket base. The pin protrudes only to the alum
plate, the rounded end part is about to the inboard side of the plate. And I
have the four layers of bid on the inside of the fuse. Not at all sure what
to do, Neville? Help!
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Wil McClellan
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
Kevin,
I am at the same point and am having just about the same problem. I don't
have enough room for the socket to fit between the port wing root and the
fuselage side. I am considering trimming 1/32 to 1/16 off the black
aluminum socket, though I don't like doing this. I don't believe it is a
good idea to trim down any of the glass around the pin in the wing as this
might compromise the strength of the aluminum plate inserted into the root.
Though as I consider it, it might be safe to take a little of the glass from
around the pin if only an area just enough to accept the socket. My port
pin actually protrudes through the fuselage skin slightly into the cockpit.
I have checked for interference inside the spar tunnel and found none. To
get my wings inline with the string stretched tip to tip, I have to pressure
or load the wings forward moving then about 1 to 1 1/2 inch at the tip.
This requires about 5 pounds pressure at the tips. This translates to maybe
4-5 times as much at the rear pin putting it in compression. Andy at Europa
suggests that I pin the two wings together separate from the fuselage to see
if the wings align without any fore or aft sweep. Mine are pretty true.
When I measuring from the forward wing tips to the aft most center of
fuselage (when the angle of incidence and sweep is set) the measurement is
3/8 inch closer on the starboard side. I figure this last dimension is
important but the least important of these settings.
Bill McClellan
A164
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
> Hi All, I am setting the wings to fuse now. I don't see anything in the
> manual about the spars being tight up to the seat back, or in the case of
> the stbd side, against the port spar steel cup. Getting sweep set equal
> seems to be bending the spars for and aft a little. Also the port front
pin
> socket does not have room to be free of inward pressure on the fuse even
> after milling .125 off of the wing root seated end of the socket and
> grinding through 4 layers of bid on the fuse. Any thoughts?
> Kevin A211 to be N211KA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Behalf Of Richard
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
> Bill,
>
> I had problems getting my wings lined up. I lined them up perfectly,
> reduxed the spar guides in place then discovered that I had ended up with
> an1/8th inch gap between the seat back & the port spar. After consulting
> with the factory, I bonded several of the thin washers supplied to take up
> the gap under the pip pin head, onto the seat back and covered them with a
> layer or two of bid. In seeking to find out how the problem had occurred I
> discovered that the seat back of the cockpit module is not quite parallel
to
> the firewall. The end job however is OK. The wings have the correct
sweep,
> are exactly parallel to the tailplane torque tube and the firewall.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
>
> Bill, I think the question of wing sweep is misleading. IMHO there is only
> one place to fit the wings and that is with the spars tight up against
each
> other and tha rear of the cockpit module. Any gap between spars or module
> seems to be putting an unreasonable load on the spar pins inviting
failure.
> If you fiddle around with the wing tips getting the sweep measurements
> precisely equal you can easily end up with a half inch gap between
seatback
> and spar, which is what happened to me on my first attempt. Having cut off
> the pin sockets and thought about it I then fitted them with blocks
pushing
> the spars forward onto the cockpit module. This resulted in a 1cm
> discrepancy in the wingtip to tail measurements on the two wings, which I
> think is of no consequence, and much preferable to a gap between spar and
> module. Happy Xmas, David Joyce
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wil McClellan <wilmac(at)gte.net>
> Subject: Wing alignment
>
>
> > In setting up the wings for correct angle of incidence (2.5 deg +or -
.05)
> > is simple enough to accomplish but I have a potential problem with the
> > forward and aft sweep. Holding the fuselage in place I can put adequate
> > pressure to get the wing sweep corrected but I question that even with
the
> > pin sockets properly set including the rear pin tie bar inplace, the
wings
> > won't still return to at least some of the incorrect sweep. Both my
wings
> > are about equal in rearward sweep. This will put the tie bar in
> > compression. I estimate I have to put 6-7 pounds of forward pressure on
> the
> > wing tips to get the correct position. Maybe this ultimately will be
> > corrected out with the tie bar but has anyone found they had to do extra
> > correction for this problem.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill McClellan
> > A164
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing alignment |
I had the same problem. It's down to quality control again. the wing root
plates were so proud in our port wing that we could not get the front socket
in, never mind with any support pad. The fix was to return the wing to the
subcontractor (can't remember their name) who very quickly removed the wing
root plates, repositioned them and returned them to us - even on a bank
holiday, and at no expense. All very helpful but a bit irritating that it
was required in the first place.
regards
Paul Stewart #432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
> Hi All, I am setting the wings to fuse now. I don't see anything in the
> manual about the spars being tight up to the seat back, or in the case of
> the stbd side, against the port spar steel cup. Getting sweep set equal
> seems to be bending the spars for and aft a little. Also the port front
pin
> socket does not have room to be free of inward pressure on the fuse even
> after milling .125 off of the wing root seated end of the socket and
> grinding through 4 layers of bid on the fuse. Any thoughts?
> Kevin A211 to be N211KA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Behalf Of Richard
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
> Bill,
>
> I had problems getting my wings lined up. I lined them up perfectly,
> reduxed the spar guides in place then discovered that I had ended up with
> an1/8th inch gap between the seat back & the port spar. After consulting
> with the factory, I bonded several of the thin washers supplied to take up
> the gap under the pip pin head, onto the seat back and covered them with a
> layer or two of bid. In seeking to find out how the problem had occurred I
> discovered that the seat back of the cockpit module is not quite parallel
to
> the firewall. The end job however is OK. The wings have the correct
sweep,
> are exactly parallel to the tailplane torque tube and the firewall.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
>
> Bill, I think the question of wing sweep is misleading. IMHO there is only
> one place to fit the wings and that is with the spars tight up against
each
> other and tha rear of the cockpit module. Any gap between spars or module
> seems to be putting an unreasonable load on the spar pins inviting
failure.
> If you fiddle around with the wing tips getting the sweep measurements
> precisely equal you can easily end up with a half inch gap between
seatback
> and spar, which is what happened to me on my first attempt. Having cut off
> the pin sockets and thought about it I then fitted them with blocks
pushing
> the spars forward onto the cockpit module. This resulted in a 1cm
> discrepancy in the wingtip to tail measurements on the two wings, which I
> think is of no consequence, and much preferable to a gap between spar and
> module. Happy Xmas, David Joyce
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wil McClellan <wilmac(at)gte.net>
> Subject: Wing alignment
>
>
> > In setting up the wings for correct angle of incidence (2.5 deg +or -
.05)
> > is simple enough to accomplish but I have a potential problem with the
> > forward and aft sweep. Holding the fuselage in place I can put adequate
> > pressure to get the wing sweep corrected but I question that even with
the
> > pin sockets properly set including the rear pin tie bar inplace, the
wings
> > won't still return to at least some of the incorrect sweep. Both my
wings
> > are about equal in rearward sweep. This will put the tie bar in
> > compression. I estimate I have to put 6-7 pounds of forward pressure on
> the
> > wing tips to get the correct position. Maybe this ultimately will be
> > corrected out with the tie bar but has anyone found they had to do extra
> > correction for this problem.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill McClellan
> > A164
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "yvonne wagtendonk" <y.wagtendonk(at)planet.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
Garry,
I agree with Andy, 914 you must have choke fully open and throttle fully
closed. And when the engine fires up keep choke and throttle in same
position for at least 30 seconds .
Jack Heijboer kit 206
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
Thanks Andy,
I hadn't tried the fully closed throttle position yet. I'll try that soon.
With respect to the battery, it's good and strong, and turns the engine over
as quickly as if the temperature was "normal".
Thanks again.
Garry V. Stout
District Manager, AT&T Business Services
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
Garry,
The temperature shouldn't affect the engine itself, as such but there's a
possibility that your battery may be affected by the cold. We've been
operating three 914 powered aircraft lately at sub freezing temperatures and
all have started without problems. Next time you try to start, boost the
battery with another and see if that makes a difference.
From cold, the 914 ( and 912(S)) engine must be started with the throttle
FULLY closed and full choke. A slightly open throttle will negate the choke
effect to an extent. This is less critical in warmer temperatures I've
found. Hope this helps.
Merry Christmas
Andy
>>> "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" 12/19/02 03:24pm >>>
Winter has finally settled in and air temperatures are often in the low 50's
(F) in the morning. I am finding that it is impossible to start my Rotax
914 when the temperature is below 65 (F). I've tried every combination of
choke and throttle position imaginable, and nothing works. As soon as the
temperature warms up, it starts instantly. Has anyone experienced a similar
situation and do you have any suggestions? A fellow Europa flier at my
airport had the same condition on his 914 powered Europa, and never was able
to solve the problem. He finally sold the plane. In case you're wondering,
I even tried spraying "ether" (automotive starting fluid) into the air
filter inlet of the turbocharger.........with no luck. Suggestions would be
very welcome as I'm not able to fly my plane at this time of year.
Regards,
Garry V. Stout
N4220S Trigear
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "craig ellison" <craig.ellison2(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing alignment |
Kevin,
I went through the same things on setting up my wings. I ended up having to
take some off the socket and bid on the fuselage to get enough clearance.
As for the proper sweep mine was off aprox .5in. I couldn't see building in
tension or compression forces by bending the spars so left as is. I hope
this doesn't adversely affect the flight performance?
craig ellison
a205
silverton, or
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Wing alignment
> Hi All, I am setting the wings to fuse now. I don't see anything in the
> manual about the spars being tight up to the seat back, or in the case of
> the stbd side, against the port spar steel cup. Getting sweep set equal
> seems to be bending the spars for and aft a little. Also the port front
pin
> socket does not have room to be free of inward pressure on the fuse even
> after milling .125 off of the wing root seated end of the socket and
> grinding through 4 layers of bid on the fuse. Any thoughts?
> Kevin A211 to be N211KA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Behalf Of Richard
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
> Bill,
>
> I had problems getting my wings lined up. I lined them up perfectly,
> reduxed the spar guides in place then discovered that I had ended up with
> an1/8th inch gap between the seat back & the port spar. After consulting
> with the factory, I bonded several of the thin washers supplied to take up
> the gap under the pip pin head, onto the seat back and covered them with a
> layer or two of bid. In seeking to find out how the problem had occurred I
> discovered that the seat back of the cockpit module is not quite parallel
to
> the firewall. The end job however is OK. The wings have the correct
sweep,
> are exactly parallel to the tailplane torque tube and the firewall.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Re: Wing alignment
>
>
> Bill, I think the question of wing sweep is misleading. IMHO there is only
> one place to fit the wings and that is with the spars tight up against
each
> other and tha rear of the cockpit module. Any gap between spars or module
> seems to be putting an unreasonable load on the spar pins inviting
failure.
> If you fiddle around with the wing tips getting the sweep measurements
> precisely equal you can easily end up with a half inch gap between
seatback
> and spar, which is what happened to me on my first attempt. Having cut off
> the pin sockets and thought about it I then fitted them with blocks
pushing
> the spars forward onto the cockpit module. This resulted in a 1cm
> discrepancy in the wingtip to tail measurements on the two wings, which I
> think is of no consequence, and much preferable to a gap between spar and
> module. Happy Xmas, David Joyce
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wil McClellan <wilmac(at)gte.net>
> Subject: Wing alignment
>
>
> > In setting up the wings for correct angle of incidence (2.5 deg +or -
.05)
> > is simple enough to accomplish but I have a potential problem with the
> > forward and aft sweep. Holding the fuselage in place I can put adequate
> > pressure to get the wing sweep corrected but I question that even with
the
> > pin sockets properly set including the rear pin tie bar inplace, the
wings
> > won't still return to at least some of the incorrect sweep. Both my
wings
> > are about equal in rearward sweep. This will put the tie bar in
> > compression. I estimate I have to put 6-7 pounds of forward pressure on
> the
> > wing tips to get the correct position. Maybe this ultimately will be
> > corrected out with the tie bar but has anyone found they had to do extra
> > correction for this problem.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill McClellan
> > A164
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Hello Gary!
A very likely problem is that with colder wx the battery is not able to
supply sufficient power to spin the starter/engine at the minimum 220 RPM
required for the magnetos to fire. No amount of raw chemical power will help
if the plugs don't fire....
Don't just try to jump the battery but replace/borrow/steal a different
battery, clean all terminals, etc. then try "lighting it off".
Hope this helps!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Hello again, Gary!
The carb enrichment circuit for starting (choke) is designed to work with
the throttle closed. You can very slightly open the throttle but any more
than that "short circuits" the choke circuit. When using the choke fully,
you should see about 2800 rpm. As soon as it starts running rough then take
the choke off and open throttle to maintain rpm..
If the standard answers don't work then check the air gap for the trigger
modules and make sure the surfaces to which they mount are not corroded. You
could also check the float bowls for contamination. Good luck!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
<20021218120849.8287.h013.c014.wm(at)mail.cswebmail.com.criticalpath.net>
<3E01F571.F667FBFA(at)ameritech.net>
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
>The only such sources I can find
>say that the resistance of electrical bonding (here from the filler
>cap thru like the exhaust pipe) to the fuel source should be 20K or
>less. Why do we want to increase this to 1 meg??
Fred - I guess this comes from the static discharge straps used in
electronics. They have a relatively high resistance to prevent the
wearer suffering adverse effects from accidentally snagging the strap
on a large source of volts. This might be encountered when
maintaining or repairing equipment, possibly less likely when
assembling as volts are generally not applied to stuff being built.
[Of course we didn't have them back in the days when we used to run
many of our lab oscilloscopes uncased for easy tweaking of the
calibration, thus leaving 15kV or so available in easy reach of
anyone passing!]
regards
Rowland
| PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
| Europa builder #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
I was looking for my carefully misplaced article that was in Sport Aviation that
suggested the 1 meg resister, as part of an overall fuel system discussion. .
.and you're right about the shopping time to locate the 1 meg resister. Not
overy common.
Cleve
On Thu, 19 Dec 2002, bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk wrote:
>
> I think that the 1meg ohm resistor is really only necessary when you are
> working with high voltages with appreciable current. It is used to prevent you
> from giving yourself a nasty shock from mains supplies whilst working on, say
> computer equipment etc. There is only 12v on the plane (unless you play with
> the HT system whilst the engine is running, but that would be silly:-)
>
> Ed
>
> Turned the engine over last week on its starter. (Trust me, it is a big step
> for us)!!!!!
>
>
> Quoting Fred Fillinger :
>
> > clevelee(at)cswebmail.com wrote:
> > >
> > > ...I've installed a 16 ga ground wire from the filler
> > > aluminum cap neck (had to cut out the filler neck to allow room for the
> > terminal
> > > secured to a flat made in the threads of the aluminum part) and have
> > installed
> > > the 1 watt 1 meg ohm resister that is recommended en-rout to the engine
> > ground.
> >
> > To save shopping time, a 1/2-watt resistor is much more common and
> > sufficient. The average static spark event we experience is just
> > barely enough to ignite fuel vapor, and equates to a couple watts for
> > a few milliseconds. Converted to heat, a 1/8-watt resistor would
> > barely notice it, nor is #16 wire similarly called for - dealing in
> > microamps here, else the static shocks that we feel would be lethal!
> >
> > Although it may be harmless, does anyone have an authoritative source
> > stating this resistor is beneficial? The only such sources I can find
> > say that the resistance of electrical bonding (here from the filler
> > cap thru like the exhaust pipe) to the fuel source should be 20K or
> > less. Why do we want to increase this to 1 meg??
> >
> > Regards,
> > Fred F.
> > The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
> >
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> This mail sent through http://www.easynetdial.co.uk
> The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
Garry and All
Since when is 50 degrees F a cold day?
In many parts of the world, that would be considered a worm spell this time
of year. ( just a bit of perspective on the hummer of this world wide
communications we have here )
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
----- Original Message -----
From: "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com>
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
> Thanks Andy,
>
> I hadn't tried the fully closed throttle position yet. I'll try that
soon. With respect to the battery, it's good and strong, and turns the
engine over as quickly as if the temperature was "normal".
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Garry V. Stout
>
> District Manager, AT&T Business Services
> Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
>
> *****Please note new e-mail address******
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
>
>
> Garry,
>
> The temperature shouldn't affect the engine itself, as such but there's a
possibility that your battery may be affected by the cold. We've been
operating three 914 powered aircraft lately at sub freezing temperatures and
all have started without problems. Next time you try to start, boost the
battery with another and see if that makes a difference.
>
> From cold, the 914 ( and 912(S)) engine must be started with the throttle
FULLY closed and full choke. A slightly open throttle will negate the choke
effect to an extent. This is less critical in warmer temperatures I've
found. Hope this helps.
>
> Merry Christmas
> Andy
>
> >>> "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" 12/19/02 03:24pm >>>
> Winter has finally settled in and air temperatures are often in the low
50's (F) in the morning. I am finding that it is impossible to start my
Rotax 914 when the temperature is below 65 (F). I've tried every
combination of choke and throttle position imaginable, and nothing works.
As soon as the temperature warms up, it starts instantly. Has anyone
experienced a similar situation and do you have any suggestions? A fellow
Europa flier at my airport had the same condition on his 914 powered Europa,
and never was able to solve the problem. He finally sold the plane. In
case you're wondering, I even tried spraying "ether" (automotive starting
fluid) into the air filter inlet of the turbocharger.........with no luck.
Suggestions would be very welcome as I'm not able to fly my plane at this
time of year.
>
> Regards,
>
> Garry V. Stout
>
> N4220S Trigear
> Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
>
> *****Please note new e-mail address******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks to Nigel Charles |
Here here I was thinking the same thing!
I like the cowl flap and it could be of use to me. I have a big problem with
the cowl keeping the heat in after shut down, this causes a problem when I
leave if I get held up in traffic before departure.
Cheers
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
europa-builder(at)ntlworld.com
Subject: Thanks to Nigel Charles
Many thanks to Nigel Charles for his article in the PFA magazine. It was
nice to see the article, which clarified some of the ideas I've seen on this
mailing list.
Cheers,
Mark.
________________________________
Mark Jackson - +44 (0)7050 645590
europa-builder(at)ntlworld.com
http://harley.pcl.ox.ac.uk/~mark/Europa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darrell L Davey" <res0g5r3(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
I have the same problem. It does not even have to be very cold. I don't have
an answer, but I would like to hear any suggestions.
Darrell
----- Original Message -----
From: "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com>
Subject: Cold Starting Rotax 914
> Winter has finally settled in and air temperatures are often in the low
50's (F) in the morning. I am finding that it is impossible to start my
Rotax 914 when the temperature is below 65 (F). I've tried every
combination of choke and throttle position imaginable, and nothing works.
As soon as the temperature warms up, it starts instantly. Has anyone
experienced a similar situation and do you have any suggestions? A fellow
Europa flier at my airport had the same condition on his 914 powered Europa,
and never was able to solve the problem. He finally sold the plane. In
case you're wondering, I even tried spraying "ether" (automotive starting
fluid) into the air filter inlet of the turbocharger.........with no luck.
Suggestions would be very welcome as I'm not able to fly my plane at this
time of year.
>
> Regards,
>
> Garry V. Stout
>
> N4220S Trigear
> Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
>
> *****Please note new e-mail address******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lisbet og Gert Dalgaard <lgds(at)post6.tele.dk> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
hmmmmmmm, why not jump it?
I have done it several times with ( - I hope) no problems.
Did I miss something?
Regards
Gert
-------------------------------------------------------
Gert Dalgaard Srensen
Stabelvej 9, Haarby
DK 8660 Skanderborg
Denmark
Europa builder No. 151
OY-GDS - Europa Classic/914
Phone.: +45 8695 0595
E mail: lgds(at)post6.tele.dk
http://home19.inet.tele.dk/dalgaard/oygds.jpeg
-------------------------------------------------------
kpav wrote:
> Hello Gary!
> A very likely problem is that with colder wx the battery is not able to
> supply sufficient power to spin the starter/engine at the minimum 220 RPM
> required for the magnetos to fire. No amount of raw chemical power will help
> if the plugs don't fire....
> Don't just try to jump the battery but replace/borrow/steal a different
> battery, clean all terminals, etc. then try "lighting it off".
> Hope this helps!
> kp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inst. Panel. Placarding |
The adhesive backed 0.2mm thick engraved instrument panel placards, as detailed
in the last newsletter insert, have arrived at the factory. We're not back here
to take orders now until the 6th Jan, though.
Please contact Ray if you would like to place an order. <ray@europa-aircraft.com>
Merry Christmas everyone.
Andy Draper
>>> "William Mills" 12/01/02 06:49pm >>>
All,
In the past I have produced all the necessary placards and signs for my panel on
my P.C. by printing white letters on a black background on photo quality paper
and lacquering the surface to stabilise. I use double sided tape to attach.
However, after a while the paper starts to de-laminate and curl at the edges.
Does anyone have any better solutions to offer?
Regards to All,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | ing on road trailer ? |
Hi Europaphiles,
I normally keep my plane at a hangar at my local airport and bring it
home on occasion for inspections and routine maintenance. I have a
question for those of you who routinely use a road trailer to transport
your Europa.
What method have you used to eliminate/reduce chafing of the wing paint
where the wings are supported in the swinging cradles ? My factory made
trailer has the wing supports made out of a firm foam rubber with a tape
facing. I find that after a few trips, I have developed some chafe marks.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers, John
N262WF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Chafing on road trailer ? |
Hi! John.
Use some industrial glue to glue a nice deep pile carpet off cut to the
carriers. My trailer is a double axle heavyweight so it doesn't bounce and
the a/c and parts don't need tying down otherwise the tie down straps can do
as much damage as the carriers so I'd give the tie downs the same type of
treatment.My a/c has been trailered for every flight and to Germany and back
by road without any damage.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI 337/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Chafing on road trailer ?
Hi Europaphiles,
I normally keep my plane at a hangar at my local airport and bring it
home on occasion for inspections and routine maintenance. I have a
question for those of you who routinely use a road trailer to transport
your Europa.
What method have you used to eliminate/reduce chafing of the wing paint
where the wings are supported in the swinging cradles ? My factory made
trailer has the wing supports made out of a firm foam rubber with a tape
facing. I find that after a few trips, I have developed some chafe marks.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers, John
N262WF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Lawton" <skyrider2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chafing on road trailer ? |
Bob,
How is the Jabiru 3300 working out on your Europa? I'm in the process of
considering which engine to install and I've been hearing some good things
about the Jabiru
Thanks,
Doug
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI 337/Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
clevelee(at)cswebmail.com wrote:
>
> I was looking for my carefully misplaced article that was in Sport Aviation that
> suggested the 1 meg resister, as part of an overall fuel system discussion.
.
> .and you're right about the shopping time to locate the 1 meg resistor. Not
> very common.
>
> Cleve
I found it on my EAA CD-ROM - April, '87. The author correctly states
that discharge time will extend to several microseconds (1 us per pf
of capacitance), but "probably below ignition temperature of gas
fumes" is unsupported anywhere else I can find. To the contrary,
there's plenty of tech stuff at nasa.gov (as in Space Shuttle), and
they're unhappy with > 10K ohms to control static discharge!
In fact, the many-megohm resistance of the human body, plus 200pf of
capacitance, doesn't suppress the static sparks we experience, where
it does indeed jump the gap before we make contact. It is further the
case that extending the discharge time can have little effect,
provided the voltage is still sufficient to jump a gap and little is
dissipated in the series resistor. What ignites fuel vapor is Joules
- volts-amps-time - however in combination derived and above the
threshhold (.25 milliJoules I think).
I think practical considerations make it all moot. In connecting a
bonding or grounding wire to the airframe, such as the exhaust pipe,
any spark there is harmless. Or even before doing so, touching the
filler cap to open it -- besides the resistor then not in the circuit
-- any spark is also harmless since the cap is unvented.* Since any
charge has then been removed from the A/C, the only remaining hazard
is the flow of fuel, and for that, very low resistance in
bonding/grounding is required, as the literature is consistent in
implying that 1 meg of series resistance there is potentially
hazardous, if the flow rate is high enough.
*And -- on the older top-mount filler, ya didn't put the vents there,
as I did not!
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chafing on road trailer ? |
Hi John,
I used a 6 inch wide by 4 feet (or so) long strip of bathroom towel draped
over the opening. As the wing goes down into the strap it drags the toweling
down with it. I too hangar it and don't take it home very often but I always
suspected the rubber might scuff the paint. My wife still wonders what
happened to one of the bathroom towels....
Have a great Christmas.
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Chafing on road trailer ? |
Carpet is by far the best for the wing cradles. Cut them out so that they
are much wider at the bottom than at the top (eg in a triangular shape) so
as to spread the load on the leading edges.
One point worth mentioning is that the tops of the metal support pillars
(that the cradle material is bolted on to - sort of forms a T at the tops).
These need to be paralell and not applying any pressure to the wing
surfaces. I wondered about adding extra padding here to spread the load.
Unfortunately bending the supporting arms outwards to relieve the pressure
results in the wings jumping around when trailering which is potentially
just as bad.
One answer would be to attach a protective cover to the leading edges where
the slings touch. A sort of stocking that clips onto the aileron closeout
lips and is held tight against the wing surface (if that makes any sense).
Unfortunately my supports were not paralell and despite using thick
carpeting ended up with a dent in the top of my port wing where the glass
skin has been crushed - not good !!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "John & Paddy Wigney" <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Chafing on road trailer ?
> Hi Europaphiles,
>
> I normally keep my plane at a hangar at my local airport and bring it
> home on occasion for inspections and routine maintenance. I have a
> question for those of you who routinely use a road trailer to transport
> your Europa.
>
> What method have you used to eliminate/reduce chafing of the wing paint
> where the wings are supported in the swinging cradles ? My factory made
> trailer has the wing supports made out of a firm foam rubber with a tape
> facing. I find that after a few trips, I have developed some chafe marks.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Cheers, John
> N262WF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello all,
I am rapidly approaching completion of my airplane -- the long wing version.
My official list of action items is down to 11, and I should get 2 or 3 done
today. Yesterday for the first time, I weighed the airplane. That leads to
some questions:
I checked the web site and they show a typically equipped empty weight of 750
pounds for the short wing and 790 for the long wing mono wheel. That is a 40
pound weight difference due to the bigger wings. I checked the Europa club
and the weights of a short wing, 914 equipped mono airplane average 860
pounds, with a low of 782 and a high of 947. If these airplanes had long
wings, this would translate to:
average 900 pounds.
Low 822 pounds.
High 987 pounds.
With the increased performance of the 914 engine over the 912S (15% at sea
level and more above that), one would think the airplane could carry more
weight. There is no difference between the max gross of any Europa airplane,
regardless of the engine. I know the structure is the reason for this, but
the max weight of the long wing is also listed the same as the short wing,
even though it has an ultimate wing loading of 10.89 Gs, vs 8.55 for the
short wing. In ancient times, I did flight test work for the Lear Fan and we
routinely flew the airplane over the max gross planned. So here is my big
question to the group:
My airplane looks to weigh about 926 pounds empty. In the real word (just
between the two of us!), what gross weights do people typically operate this
airplane? If you put 2, 180 pound people in a 900 pound empty weight short
wing airplane with full fuel, you can cannot carry anything else, since you
are right up against max of 1370.
I don't have the operating manual for the long wing airplane, so I don't know
what the official number will be yet. The good news is the CG falls right in
the middle, so I won't have to do any adjusting there. I did get carried away
with system redundancy and equipment, but all in all, it should be a good
airplane. Theoretically, I could pull it out the door and fly it today. It is
ready - I'm not and the FAA is not either - yet.
Thanks,
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
OK already! I've seen enough conjecture on static spark prevention....
Sorry to be so bold, but I may have some final words regarding this
important issue...When the CAF foundation evaluated N111EU we discussed
this topic. They did considerable research previously on this matter and
determined that if you just simply use a wetted towel to wipe around the
fill neck prior to filling and keep it at the fill neck area during filling
(like setting your gas can on the towel), the static charge potential is
eliminated. To be safer, I also ran a ground wire from the fill neck to the
battery ground, engine (includes exhaust), and engine mount and swing arm
frame to accommodate the ground wire provided at the fuel pump or fuel
truck. I carry a ground wire with appropriate alligator clips in N111EU to
connect to unknown dispensing sources for greater assurance.
Hope this helps!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Rotax instructions indicate this is not to be done...
It probably assumes that connections may be at fault, not the battery.
Always check condition of battery prior to jumping a bad battery, could
cause explosion!!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chafing on road trailer ? |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
John,
I found out that putting a sheet of heavy clear plastic in the
area where the wing support will touch the wing, seems to eliminate that
problem. Bob Berube at Flight Crafters told me about that trick. The
plastic sheet is held in place with paper masking tape around ALL the
exposed edges ( so it won't pull off in transit)that is removed when you
get to your destination. Don't leave it on for any length of time as it
gets a pain to remove.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Dave,
Mine came in at 890# with the electric prop (NSI) on it. Yes, it
seems that when you do your weight and balance, the cg is right where it
is suppose to be. I did both scenarios with 1 pilot and full fuel and 1
pilot and minimum fuel. Then did it again with a pax. and full fuel (a
must). Baggage becomes an optional item ?????? I've been told that if
you fly it in the normal configuration (no aerobatics and high "G"
maneuvers) you can put more in the back (baggage) and toddle on your way.
Just be careful. I'm also told that in Canada some of the builders have
stated the gross weight to be 1400 plus and went on from there. I owned
a Cessna 195 (1950 5 place tail dragger with a 300 hp Jacobson radial
engine up front). It grossed at 3350#. However, my annual inspector
(who by the way had signed it off at the factory) said that the lovely
bird would fly just fine with what ever you could stuff inside. Had a
nice sized baggage compartment. So take it for what its worth. I'm quite
confident that on long cross countrys, I'll put in what I need
(conservatively) and fly on.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Hi Dave,
I'm surprised that the gross weight for the long-wing has not been
increased. Indeed in an older brochure for the MG, the GW was listed as
1400.
Somebody (Andy?) please correct me if I'm incorrect in my assumptions
but....
**Assuming adequate power** this increased max gross made sense to me at
the time since the increased wing-weight is 'self-flying' and thus
shouldn't impact on the wing's g-loading rating (as those tests are
obviously done leveraging on the exposed wing spar). In my thinking, any
increase in wing weight should be added to the max gross weight of the
short wing configuration...no?
What is the weight difference of the two wings?
If I'm way off on this, I'll be very interested in hearing the rational.
Cheers,
Curious Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Gross weight
Hello all,
I am rapidly approaching completion of my airplane -- the long wing
version.
My official list of action items is down to 11, and I should get 2 or 3
done
today. Yesterday for the first time, I weighed the airplane. That leads
to
some questions:
I checked the web site and they show a typically equipped empty weight
of 750
pounds for the short wing and 790 for the long wing mono wheel. That is
a 40
pound weight difference due to the bigger wings. I checked the Europa
club
and the weights of a short wing, 914 equipped mono airplane average 860
pounds, with a low of 782 and a high of 947. If these airplanes had long
wings, this would translate to:
average 900 pounds.
Low 822 pounds.
High 987 pounds.
With the increased performance of the 914 engine over the 912S (15% at
sea
level and more above that), one would think the airplane could carry
more
weight. There is no difference between the max gross of any Europa
airplane,
regardless of the engine. I know the structure is the reason for this,
but
the max weight of the long wing is also listed the same as the short
wing,
even though it has an ultimate wing loading of 10.89 Gs, vs 8.55 for the
short wing. In ancient times, I did flight test work for the Lear Fan
and we
routinely flew the airplane over the max gross planned. So here is my
big
question to the group:
My airplane looks to weigh about 926 pounds empty. In the real word
(just
between the two of us!), what gross weights do people typically operate
this
airplane? If you put 2, 180 pound people in a 900 pound empty weight
short
wing airplane with full fuel, you can cannot carry anything else, since
you
are right up against max of 1370.
I don't have the operating manual for the long wing airplane, so I don't
know
what the official number will be yet. The good news is the CG falls
right in
the middle, so I won't have to do any adjusting there. I did get carried
away
with system redundancy and equipment, but all in all, it should be a
good
airplane. Theoretically, I could pull it out the door and fly it today.
It is
ready - I'm not and the FAA is not either - yet.
Thanks,
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
I have recently installed my radiator in the ducting and have just completed
the fitting of the lower engine cowl. I have a gap of around 1inch between
the lower edge of the rad & the cowl. Should I endeavour to block this off
to encourage as much airflow as possible through the rad or leave a gap so
that some cool air gets directly to the oil cooler. If the answer is block
it off, what to use?
Happy new Christmas!!
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
Not to beat a dead horse . . .but. .
I found the Fuel systems article. It was a CAFE foundation special report in
the March 2001 issue of Sport Aviation. (It was acting as a book mark in
Aircraft Spruce catlog). It's good reading.
The wet rag trick must have come after that report.
Cleve
On Fri, 20 Dec 2002, Fred Fillinger wrote:
>
> clevelee(at)cswebmail.com wrote:
> >
> > I was looking for my carefully misplaced article that was in Sport Aviation
> that
> > suggested the 1 meg resister, as part of an overall fuel system discussion.
.
> > .and you're right about the shopping time to locate the 1 meg resistor. Not
> > very common.
> >
> > Cleve
>
> I found it on my EAA CD-ROM - April, '87. The author correctly states
> that discharge time will extend to several microseconds (1 us per pf
> of capacitance), but "probably below ignition temperature of gas
> fumes" is unsupported anywhere else I can find. To the contrary,
> there's plenty of tech stuff at nasa.gov (as in Space Shuttle), and
> they're unhappy with > 10K ohms to control static discharge!
>
> In fact, the many-megohm resistance of the human body, plus 200pf of
> capacitance, doesn't suppress the static sparks we experience, where
> it does indeed jump the gap before we make contact. It is further the
> case that extending the discharge time can have little effect,
> provided the voltage is still sufficient to jump a gap and little is
> dissipated in the series resistor. What ignites fuel vapor is Joules
> - volts-amps-time - however in combination derived and above the
> threshhold (.25 milliJoules I think).
>
> I think practical considerations make it all moot. In connecting a
> bonding or grounding wire to the airframe, such as the exhaust pipe,
> any spark there is harmless. Or even before doing so, touching the
> filler cap to open it -- besides the resistor then not in the circuit
> -- any spark is also harmless since the cap is unvented.* Since any
> charge has then been removed from the A/C, the only remaining hazard
> is the flow of fuel, and for that, very low resistance in
> bonding/grounding is required, as the literature is consistent in
> implying that 1 meg of series resistance there is potentially
> hazardous, if the flow rate is high enough.
>
> *And -- on the older top-mount filler, ya didn't put the vents there,
> as I did not!
>
> Best,
> Fred F.
> The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | europa-builder(at)ntlworld.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
Peter Zutrauen wrote:
> Hi Dave,
>
> I'm surprised that the gross weight for the long-wing has not been
> increased. Indeed in an older brochure for the MG, the GW was listed
> as 1400.
>
> Somebody (Andy?) please correct me if I'm incorrect in my assumptions
> but....
> **Assuming adequate power** this increased max gross made sense to me
> at the time since the increased wing-weight is 'self-flying' and thus
> shouldn't impact on the wing's g-loading rating (as those tests are
> obviously done leveraging on the exposed wing spar). In my thinking,
> any increase in wing weight should be added to the max gross weight
> of the short wing configuration...no?
>
> What is the weight difference of the two wings?
>
> If I'm way off on this, I'll be very interested in hearing the
> rational.
Surely this isn't just down to the weight that the aircraft can carry, but
must also be related to the load the wings cause on the airframe? I.e. the
weight increase mode implies to me that there is a leverage effect turning
on the spar and trying to push the wings into the airframe at the point
where the weight increase mod. bar is placed? So the max. weight the
aircraft can carry isn't just a factor of the load on the wings, but also
the 'other' effects on the airframe?
Cheers,
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Mark,
Wouldn't the force you describe decrease Vne & Va? I don't think it
would impact gross weight?
Does anyone know what the Vne's & Va's are for each configuration?
I'm still curious why the gross couldn't be increased by the additional
weight of the long wings.... I assume they are heavier(?).
Cheers,
Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Gross weight
Peter Zutrauen wrote:
> Hi Dave,
>
> I'm surprised that the gross weight for the long-wing has not been
> increased. Indeed in an older brochure for the MG, the GW was listed
> as 1400.
>
> Somebody (Andy?) please correct me if I'm incorrect in my assumptions
> but....
> **Assuming adequate power** this increased max gross made sense to me
> at the time since the increased wing-weight is 'self-flying' and thus
> shouldn't impact on the wing's g-loading rating (as those tests are
> obviously done leveraging on the exposed wing spar). In my thinking,
> any increase in wing weight should be added to the max gross weight
> of the short wing configuration...no?
>
> What is the weight difference of the two wings?
>
> If I'm way off on this, I'll be very interested in hearing the
> rational.
Surely this isn't just down to the weight that the aircraft can carry,
but
must also be related to the load the wings cause on the airframe? I.e.
the
weight increase mode implies to me that there is a leverage effect
turning
on the spar and trying to push the wings into the airframe at the point
where the weight increase mod. bar is placed? So the max. weight the
aircraft can carry isn't just a factor of the load on the wings, but
also
the 'other' effects on the airframe?
Cheers,
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
In a message dated 12/21/2002 3:12:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
peterz(at)zutrasoft.com writes:
> Somebody (Andy?) please correct me if I'm incorrect in my assumptions
> but....
> **Assuming adequate power** this increased max gross made sense to me at
> the time since the increased wing-weight is 'self-flying' and thus
> shouldn't impact on the wing's g-loading rating (as those tests are
> obviously done leveraging on the exposed wing spar). In my thinking, any
> increase in wing weight should be added to the max gross weight of the
> short wing configuration...no?
>
> What is the weight difference of the two wings?
>
> If I'm way off on this, I'll be very interested in hearing the rational.
>
This may be a little bit also like the increase in the twin comanche with tip
tanks. The fuel weight in the tips counters the wing bending moment and
allows an increase in gross weight by about 150 pounds. It seems they say the
increase in weight due to the wings is about 40 pounds, if the weight
difference in their typically equipped numbers on the web site reflect that.
Dave A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
In a message dated 12/21/2002 5:48:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
peterz(at)zutrasoft.com writes:
>
> Wouldn't the force you describe decrease Vne &Va? I don't think it
> would impact gross weight?
>
> Does anyone know what the Vne's &Va's are for each configuration?
>
> I'm still curious why the gross couldn't be increased by the additional
> weight of the long wings.... I assume they are heavier(?).
>
They are heavier - the Vne and Va are quite a bit lower for the long wings -
127 knots Vne vs 165 for the short wings. That is one of the reasons I chose
the turbo, since to fly a respectable cross country speed, you need to fly at
high altitude because of the Vne restriction. If you can indicate 120 knots
at 17,000 feet, that translates to a healthy true airspeed. John Hurst saw
174 mph true at 16,500 on his long cross country. cruising at lower altitudes
makes the airplane slower, even if it has the power to indicate a higher
airspeed.
I am not sure of the reasons for the lower speeds, but may be the drag loads
on the spars from the long wings.
Dave
A227
mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns(at)hevanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
I remember writing the factory on the MG gross weight issue. If I remember
correctly,
the XS weight increase required enlarged drag pins as well as the
carrythrough bar. Another 50 lbs
increase for the MG wings would have required another round of
reinforcements and testing.
Further, additional MTOW was not considered necessary since the expected use
of the MG was
for recreation with typically just the pilot on board and partially full
tanks, not touring, so the loss in - primarily - luggage
capacity was not critical. The factory may not have forseen the excellent
high altitude performance of the
914 MG that makes it much more versatile that originally thought, enough to
make the MG the primary or sole
wing configuration, rather than a sometimes option to a primarily short wing
aircraft.
Also, it's turned out that US builders equip their planes more fully than
the early UK
builders - with bigger engines and the tri-gear configuration being very
common (and how many US
pilots conform to the FAA 170lb standard?). It's possible that a 914
trigear MG could hit 950lbs empty,
enforcing the 1 pilot + partial tanks assumption.
Those Europas that have come near to the 750lb factory suggested empty
weight have been very simply
fitted out.
Shaun
----- Original Message -----
From: <DJA727(at)aol.com>
Subject: Gross weight
> Hello all,
>
> I am rapidly approaching completion of my airplane -- the long wing
version.
> My official list of action items is down to 11, and I should get 2 or 3
done
> today. Yesterday for the first time, I weighed the airplane. That leads to
> some questions:
>
> I checked the web site and they show a typically equipped empty weight of
750
> pounds for the short wing and 790 for the long wing mono wheel. That is a
40
> pound weight difference due to the bigger wings. I checked the Europa club
> and the weights of a short wing, 914 equipped mono airplane average 860
> pounds, with a low of 782 and a high of 947. If these airplanes had long
> wings, this would translate to:
>
> average 900 pounds.
> Low 822 pounds.
> High 987 pounds.
>
> With the increased performance of the 914 engine over the 912S (15% at sea
> level and more above that), one would think the airplane could carry more
> weight. There is no difference between the max gross of any Europa
airplane,
> regardless of the engine. I know the structure is the reason for this, but
> the max weight of the long wing is also listed the same as the short wing,
> even though it has an ultimate wing loading of 10.89 Gs, vs 8.55 for the
> short wing. In ancient times, I did flight test work for the Lear Fan and
we
> routinely flew the airplane over the max gross planned. So here is my big
> question to the group:
>
> My airplane looks to weigh about 926 pounds empty. In the real word (just
> between the two of us!), what gross weights do people typically operate
this
> airplane? If you put 2, 180 pound people in a 900 pound empty weight short
> wing airplane with full fuel, you can cannot carry anything else, since
you
> are right up against max of 1370.
>
> I don't have the operating manual for the long wing airplane, so I don't
know
> what the official number will be yet. The good news is the CG falls right
in
> the middle, so I won't have to do any adjusting there. I did get carried
away
> with system redundancy and equipment, but all in all, it should be a good
> airplane. Theoretically, I could pull it out the door and fly it today. It
is
> ready - I'm not and the FAA is not either - yet.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> A227
> Mini U2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
Dear family and friends,
Here's Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas, a Happy New Year and
enjoyable safe flying in 2003.
From Jan and Bob Harrison.
Swiss Alps August 2002 at 12,000ft from G-PTAG Europa MKI /Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | or nearly new Rotax 912 Required. |
Hi! All.
No I'm not replacing the 3300 Jabiru !
I have had contact from a Don Lord who flies a Kit Fox out of Piltdown
(South of London) who needs to hear from anyone who has a bog standard Rotax
912 for a straight sale.
His 'phone number is (0044) 01273 55 88 88.
I'm trusting that, since this message is in no way a benefit to me, it isn't
considered to be an advert?!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI 337/Jabiru 3300.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <KHEINDL(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: radiator clearance |
Richard,
I think that all air should be forced through the radiators.
I bonded a strip of glassfibre about 2 inches in front of the rad to the bottom
cowling, angled toward the bottom of the rad. Then i riveted a strip of the
same rubberlike material to it that is also used to seal between duct and cowling.
Karl Heindl
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard
Subject: radiator clearance
I have recently installed my radiator in the ducting and have just completed
the fitting of the lower engine cowl. I have a gap of around 1inch between
the lower edge of the rad & the cowl. Should I endeavour to block this off
to encourage as much airflow as possible through the rad or leave a gap so
that some cool air gets directly to the oil cooler. If the answer is block
it off, what to use?
Happy new Christmas!!
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | th of an Engine". |
Hi!
Further to my message re. Rotax 912 required.
If anyone has contact with Bill Goldsmith who has upgraded (according to the
article in the "Europa Flyer") perhaps you could advise him to contact Don
Lord on 01273 558888 if he still has his engine for sale.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI 337 /Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
Hi Dave.
The weights of the XS series of Europas seem to be coming in around 850-900 lbs.
Mine came in at 888 .lbs. I think Europa is still using the weights of the
Classic series with minimum equipment and panels in their advertising.
In your comments about being at max. gross weight with two people, let me say
this! In the year 2000 we flew from Florida to Arlington Wa. along side the
company a/c N914EA. My a/c was at 1440 lbs. and I'm sure N914EA was in the same
range when you looked at how loaded the baggage compartment was on both a/c. The
aircraft flew fine at this increased weight with out any problems. When we
arrived in the "Rockies" we saw that the 914 engine was up to the task at hand
and the increased density altitudes were not a factor in the take off even at
the 1440 gross weight. The one thing we learned, was that, do not retract the
gear until we had a couple hundred feet of altitude. In doing so, when the flaps
retracted, we lost some of the lift in the thin air, and the plane would lose a
little altitude before regaining a positive rate of climb.
To all of you,,, Who are reading this, pleeease do not take this as an
endorsement to overload your aircraft. Most of our cross country flight was at
altitudes of 13.000 to 17.500. We did not have a lot of turbulence at these
altitudes and we were comfortable with our flight profiles that we were not over
stressing the aircraft.
Jim Brown
N398JB
DJA727(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I am rapidly approaching completion of my airplane -- the long wing version.
> My official list of action items is down to 11, and I should get 2 or 3 done
> today. Yesterday for the first time, I weighed the airplane. That leads to
> some questions:
>
> I checked the web site and they show a typically equipped empty weight of 750
> pounds for the short wing and 790 for the long wing mono wheel. That is a 40
> pound weight difference due to the bigger wings. I checked the Europa club
> and the weights of a short wing, 914 equipped mono airplane average 860
> pounds, with a low of 782 and a high of 947. If these airplanes had long
> wings, this would translate to:
>
> average 900 pounds.
> Low 822 pounds.
> High 987 pounds.
>
> With the increased performance of the 914 engine over the 912S (15% at sea
> level and more above that), one would think the airplane could carry more
> weight. There is no difference between the max gross of any Europa airplane,
> regardless of the engine. I know the structure is the reason for this, but
> the max weight of the long wing is also listed the same as the short wing,
> even though it has an ultimate wing loading of 10.89 Gs, vs 8.55 for the
> short wing. In ancient times, I did flight test work for the Lear Fan and we
> routinely flew the airplane over the max gross planned. So here is my big
> question to the group:
>
> My airplane looks to weigh about 926 pounds empty. In the real word (just
> between the two of us!), what gross weights do people typically operate this
> airplane? If you put 2, 180 pound people in a 900 pound empty weight short
> wing airplane with full fuel, you can cannot carry anything else, since you
> are right up against max of 1370.
>
> I don't have the operating manual for the long wing airplane, so I don't know
> what the official number will be yet. The good news is the CG falls right in
> the middle, so I won't have to do any adjusting there. I did get carried away
> with system redundancy and equipment, but all in all, it should be a good
> airplane. Theoretically, I could pull it out the door and fly it today. It is
> ready - I'm not and the FAA is not either - yet.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> A227
> Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Unmissable UK TV - Sunday 22nd December 17:15 - 18:50 Channel 4 - Scrapheap
Mega Challenge staring Bill Brooks the Ex chief technical officer for the
BMAA and current chief designer for Pegasus, taking on the USA to design and
build a flying machine.
Seasons greetings Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
> In your comments about being at max. gross weight with two people, let me say
> this! In the year 2000 we flew from Florida to Arlington Wa. along side the
> company a/c N914EA. My a/c was at 1440 lbs. and I'm sure N914EA was in the
> same
> range when you looked at how loaded the baggage compartment was on both a/c.
> The
> aircraft flew fine at this increased weight with out any problems. When we
> arrived in the "Rockies" we saw that the 914 engine was up to the task at hand
> and the increased density altitudes were not a factor in the take off even at
> the 1440 gross weight. The one thing we learned, was that, do not retract the
> gear until we had a couple hundred feet of altitude. In doing so, when the
> flaps
> retracted, we lost some of the lift in the thin air, and the plane would lose
> a
> little altitude before regaining a positive rate of climb.
>
> To all of you,,, Who are reading this, pleeease do not take this as an
> endorsement to overload your aircraft. Most of our cross country flight was at
> altitudes of 13.000 to 17.500. We did not have a lot of turbulence at these
> altitudes and we were comfortable with our flight profiles that we were not
> over
> stressing the aircraft.
As I understand it, 1370 lbs is the max weight permitted in a Europa. If you
fly at above that you lose your certification and your insurance cover.
Neither is a problem unless you crash.
The figure has been set at 1370 based on the designer's calculations. Why
does anybody consider that exceeding the Max weight is permissable ?
If you were ramp checked, and the calculations were based on 1440 then the
FAA inspector would throw the book at you.
Just my twopennyworth.
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder(at)avnet.co.uk
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, being built.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Europa Club Membership Secretary <europa-club(at)rowil.clara.net> |
Today 22-12-02, Tim Houlihan's Classic monowheel G-BZTH first flew
from Kemble with Dave Hunter at the helm. The empty weight was 782 lb
with Rotax 912 & Warp Drive prop. More details, no doubt, from Tim in
due course.
The permit to test from PFA engineering arrived chez Houlihan earlier
this week on the morning of the nicest day we've had around here for
some time, with light winds and cloudless skies. However, getting the
paperwork, the nominated test pilot, the aeroplane, the weather and
one time proved difficult. After several frustrating days when one or
other piece of the jigsaw was missing, Tim told Dave Hunter to go
ahead and fly it if everything else looked good, even if he couldn't
be there to witness it. So, he & Anne were somewhere in Lancashire
taking the pretty route home from the (very enjoyable) Europa Club
Christmas dinner when they got the good news on the mobile phone.
Congratulations Tim!
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Planes on TV |
That was indeed unmissable! Well done Bill!!
I have to say, though, that the 'Bleriot' was a stunningly beautiful
aircraft. I just hope they bring out a video with more footage of all three.
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of LTS
Subject: Planes on TV
Unmissable UK TV - Sunday 22nd December 17:15 - 18:50 Channel 4 - Scrapheap
Mega Challenge staring Bill Brooks the Ex chief technical officer for the
BMAA and current chief designer for Pegasus, taking on the USA to design and
build a flying machine.
Seasons greetings Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "yvonne wagtendonk" <y.wagtendonk(at)planet.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: static sparks |
I do the same,I keep a towl (small one )in the hangar and one in my car.
Before i fill up my europa with gas I go over the filling area on the
fusalage with a damp towl and wipe the can as well. It will eliminate any
static in that area. While filling, the damp towel is kept in touch with the
fusalage and the filling can.
Jack. Europa 206 My bird of paradise.
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: static sparks
OK already! I've seen enough conjecture on static spark prevention....
Sorry to be so bold, but I may have some final words regarding this
important issue...When the CAF foundation evaluated N111EU we discussed
this topic. They did considerable research previously on this matter and
determined that if you just simply use a wetted towel to wipe around the
fill neck prior to filling and keep it at the fill neck area during filling
(like setting your gas can on the towel), the static charge potential is
eliminated. To be safer, I also ran a ground wire from the fill neck to the
battery ground, engine (includes exhaust), and engine mount and swing arm
frame to accommodate the ground wire provided at the fuel pump or fuel
truck. I carry a ground wire with appropriate alligator clips in N111EU to
connect to unknown dispensing sources for greater assurance.
Hope this helps!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
I think you might find that the tie-bar is to counter aerodynamic forces
that are trying to pull the wings forward. Something to do with forward
bending moments at increased loading in the area of Va. Perhaps one of our
aerodynamicists can illucidate.
regards
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <europa-builder(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Gross weight
> Peter Zutrauen wrote:
> > Hi Dave,
> >
> > I'm surprised that the gross weight for the long-wing has not been
> > increased. Indeed in an older brochure for the MG, the GW was listed
> > as 1400.
> >
> > Somebody (Andy?) please correct me if I'm incorrect in my assumptions
> > but....
> > **Assuming adequate power** this increased max gross made sense to me
> > at the time since the increased wing-weight is 'self-flying' and thus
> > shouldn't impact on the wing's g-loading rating (as those tests are
> > obviously done leveraging on the exposed wing spar). In my thinking,
> > any increase in wing weight should be added to the max gross weight
> > of the short wing configuration...no?
> >
> > What is the weight difference of the two wings?
> >
> > If I'm way off on this, I'll be very interested in hearing the
> > rational.
>
> Surely this isn't just down to the weight that the aircraft can carry, but
> must also be related to the load the wings cause on the airframe? I.e.
the
> weight increase mode implies to me that there is a leverage effect turning
> on the spar and trying to push the wings into the airframe at the point
> where the weight increase mod. bar is placed? So the max. weight the
> aircraft can carry isn't just a factor of the load on the wings, but also
> the 'other' effects on the airframe?
>
> Cheers,
> Mark.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: G-BZTH flies! |
>Today 22-12-02, Tim Houlihan's Classic monowheel G-BZTH first flew from
>Kemble with Dave Hunter at the helm. The empty weight was 782 lb with
>Rotax 912 & Warp Drive prop. More details, no doubt, from Tim in due course.
> So, he & Anne were somewhere in Lancashire taking the pretty route home
> from the (very enjoyable) Europa Club Christmas dinner when they got the
> good news on the mobile phone.
>Rowland
Rowland & Tim,
Well, that is a very nice finishing touch to an extremely enjoyable
weekend!. Thanks to all the people who put in so much time organizing the
Christmas Dinner.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
Congratulations to Tim.
On the first flight.
What a Christmas present
Regards and compliments of the season.
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI 337/Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | and Cathy Friedland. |
Hi! Tom and Cathy.
I just tried to send you a Christmas Card e-mail but it was returned by the
system.
I must have some address error or your system has a block on HTML messages.
Anyway which ever here's wishing you a very Merry Christmas, Happy New
year, and safe flying in 2003.
From Jan and Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI /Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave_Miller(at)ca.cgugroup.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gross weight |
12/23/2002 08:42:27 AM,
Yes,
Which is why the bolts must go through the tie bar rod and the W34 end
fittings, something that was not particularly clear in the original
instructions and which is complicated by the gear ribs on the tri-gears
Dave A061
[TABLE NOT SHOWN]
I think you might find that the tie-bar is to counter aerodynamic forces
that are trying to pull the wings forward. Something to do with forward
bending moments at increased loading in the area of Va. Perhaps one of
our
aerodynamicists can illucidate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: G-BZTH flies! |
Tim, very many congratulations! David Joyce
----- Original Message -----
From: Europa Club Membership Secretary <europa-club(at)rowil.clara.net>
Subject: G-BZTH flies!
> Today 22-12-02, Tim Houlihan's Classic monowheel G-BZTH first flew
> from Kemble with Dave Hunter at the helm. The empty weight was 782 lb
> with Rotax 912 & Warp Drive prop. More details, no doubt, from Tim in
> due course.
>
> The permit to test from PFA engineering arrived chez Houlihan earlier
> this week on the morning of the nicest day we've had around here for
> some time, with light winds and cloudless skies. However, getting the
> paperwork, the nominated test pilot, the aeroplane, the weather and
> one time proved difficult. After several frustrating days when one or
> other piece of the jigsaw was missing, Tim told Dave Hunter to go
> ahead and fly it if everything else looked good, even if he couldn't
> be there to witness it. So, he & Anne were somewhere in Lancashire
> taking the pretty route home from the (very enjoyable) Europa Club
> Christmas dinner when they got the good news on the mobile phone.
>
> Congratulations Tim!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
> | Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
> | Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
> | e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Used or nearly new Rotax 912 Required. |
Bob,
I have spoke to Bill a few time and I know part of his action plane was to
use the 912 in a wooden kit plane he is building which made it viable for
him to upgrade.
If you want to double check try bill(at)bgoldsmith.freeserve.co.uk
I do know of another Europa that was upgraded and the co owner mentioned the
912 was for sale try John Crawford john(at)jcjcjc.freeserve.co.uk
On a side issue if you find or know of a 100hp 912S on your travels I know
someone who would be very interested (cash waiting)!
Kind regards
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Used or nearly new Rotax 912 Required.
Hi! All.
No I'm not replacing the 3300 Jabiru !
I have had contact from a Don Lord who flies a Kit Fox out of Piltdown
(South of London) who needs to hear from anyone who has a bog standard Rotax
912 for a straight sale.
His 'phone number is (0044) 01273 55 88 88.
I'm trusting that, since this message is in no way a benefit to me, it isn't
considered to be an advert?!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI 337/Jabiru 3300.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: radiator clearance |
Att Richard GRIXS
Have you changed from A Subaru or am I getting confused?
If you did change it from A Subaru please can you contact me off list as I
have a couple of questions for you.
Kind regards
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: radiator clearance
Richard,
I think that all air should be forced through the radiators.
I bonded a strip of glassfibre about 2 inches in front of the rad to the
bottom
cowling, angled toward the bottom of the rad. Then i riveted a strip of the
same rubberlike material to it that is also used to seal between duct and
cowling.
Karl Heindl
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard
Subject: radiator clearance
I have recently installed my radiator in the ducting and have just completed
the fitting of the lower engine cowl. I have a gap of around 1inch between
the lower edge of the rad & the cowl. Should I endeavour to block this off
to encourage as much airflow as possible through the rad or leave a gap so
that some cool air gets directly to the oil cooler. If the answer is block
it off, what to use?
Happy new Christmas!!
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello again,
I had a successful meeting yesterday with the person who will be doing my
airworthiness certificate on my long wing airplane. I looks like I will be
legal to fly in about 2 weeks -- quicker had it not been for the holidays. It
looks like it will be a cake walk except for one thing. He questioned the 51%
rule and indicated I will need to prove it to him -- through a letter or some
such thing. Has anyone had a problem with this? The short wing airplane
obviously meets the 51% requirement and I am sure the long wing one does too,
but I am the lead aircraft here.
Any comments?
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possible2do(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Used or nearly new Rotax 912 Required. |
Hi All;
I heard there was a used Rotax 912 attached to what used to be an airforce drone
over in the mid-East. 'Course you'll have to pay "duty" to the Iraqis for shipping
it outta there. ")
Happy holidays all
Paul Boulet, A212
Kevin Taylor wrote:Bob,
I have spoke to Bill a few time and I know part of his action plane was to
use the 912 in a wooden kit plane he is building which made it viable for
him to upgrade.
If you want to double check try bill(at)bgoldsmith.freeserve.co.uk
I do know of another Europa that was upgraded and the co owner mentioned the
912 was for sale try John Crawford john(at)jcjcjc.freeserve.co.uk
On a side issue if you find or know of a 100hp 912S on your travels I know
someone who would be very interested (cash waiting)!
Kind regards
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Used or nearly new Rotax 912 Required.
Hi! All.
No I'm not replacing the 3300 Jabiru !
I have had contact from a Don Lord who flies a Kit Fox out of Piltdown
(South of London) who needs to hear from anyone who has a bog standard Rotax
912 for a straight sale.
His 'phone number is (0044) 01273 55 88 88.
I'm trusting that, since this message is in no way a benefit to me, it isn't
considered to be an advert?!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI 337/Jabiru 3300.
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Dave
I have a FAA publication that lists kits that meet the rule. You can check
at http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs600/ama_kit.html to see the latest list
to see if the MG is on the list.
Hope this helps.
Jim & Heather A185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
> Hello again,
>
> I had a successful meeting yesterday with the person who will be doing my
> airworthiness certificate on my long wing airplane. I looks like I will be
> legal to fly in about 2 weeks -- quicker had it not been for the holidays. It
> looks like it will be a cake walk except for one thing. He questioned the 51%
> rule and indicated I will need to prove it to him -- through a letter or some
> such thing. Has anyone had a problem with this? The short wing airplane
> obviously meets the 51% requirement and I am sure the long wing one does too,
> but I am the lead aircraft here.
>
> Any comments?
> Dave
> A227
> Mini U2
Yes...Bovine Scatology! FAA AC 20-139 says:
"When a kit has been been evaluated and published in the listing of
eligible amateur-built kits, and no commercial assistance was used...,
the ASI or DAR will not be required to make another major portion rule
determination...." [note - paid assistance for upholstery & avionics
doesn't count against you, but you doing so can count for you].
If Europa did not obtain a new 51% determination for the MG [not on
FAA 11/02 listing], appears they need not have:
"If the kit manufacturer later offers an option or makes changes to
the kit that decreases the amount of fabrication and assembly required
by the builder, the manufacturer should request a new Letter of
Eligibility."
If this is the [silly] problem, then one way is copies of the
differing manual chapters (wings, flap?) and yellow-highlight only
where in substance (not word-for-word) that fabrication and assembly
steps vary. Will there be very little yellow, and even bit more on
the MG? Or even sounds like just a letter from Europa narratively
saying the same simple thing may be OK, though it really shouldn't (30
yrs of Fed. investigatory and legal experience, and I can explain
why). Good luck!
Happy, Holidays!
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/24/2002 9:44:43 AM Pacific Standard Time,
PreDial(at)aol.com writes:
> I have a FAA publication that lists kits that meet the rule. You can check
> at http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs600/ama_kit.html to see the latest list
>
> to see if the MG is on the list.
>
>
Thanks, but I am not having any luck getting through to that address. Are you
sure it is current?
Merry Christmas,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/24/2002 12:17:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
fillinger(at)ameritech.net writes:
> "If the kit manufacturer later offers an option or makes changes to
> the kit that decreases the amount of fabrication and assembly required
> by the builder, the manufacturer should request a new Letter of
> Eligibility."
>
> If this is the [silly] problem, then one way is copies of the
> differing manual chapters (wings, flap?) and yellow-highlight only
> where in substance (not word-for-word) that fabrication and assembly
> steps vary. Will there be very little yellow, and even bit more on
> the MG? Or even sounds like just a letter from Europa narratively
> saying the same simple thing may be OK, though it really shouldn't (30
> yrs of Fed. investigatory and legal experience, and I can explain
> why). Good luck!
>
I noticed that when I found the web site with the list. The longer wings
require more work, but I think I will have to get Europa to add the MG to the
list to make the FAA relax about it. I will be researching that in the next
few days -- slowed slightly by the holidays!
Dave A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 51% - never mind |
In a message dated 12/24/2002 12:18:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
DJA727(at)aol.com writes:
> Thanks, but I am not having any luck getting through to that address. Are
> you
> sure it is current?
>
>
I found the information - they do not list the MG on the FAA list of approved
kits.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
Has anyone managed to find a small on/off valve suitable for a handbrake in the
monowheel brake circuit.
regards,
Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Handbrake Valve |
Hi Michael,
the Matco parking brake valve works quite well,
Aircraft Spruce p/n 06-17200. It is a dual device,
mono builders use only one side.
regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
Michael Parkin wrote:
> Has anyone managed to find a small on/off valve suitable for a handbrake in the
monowheel brake circuit.
>
> regards,
>
> Mike Parkin No 312 (G-JULZ)
>
> mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Wiegand" <dwiegand(at)surewest.net> |
Dave (and all interested):
I did a bit of fishing around, and yes it looks like
the site (or server) has changed - just delete the
"/ama_kit.html" off the end of the link and watch what
happens.
here is a link that gets right to the document, and yes
there is no mention of the MG version
http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/ama-kit.pdf
hope this helps
happy holidays - mele kalikimaka
Dean Wiegand
Sacramento CA USA
dwiegand(at)surewest.net
kit A259
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
DJA727(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: 51%
In a message dated 12/24/2002 9:44:43 AM Pacific
Standard Time,
PreDial(at)aol.com writes:
> I have a FAA publication that lists kits that meet
the rule. You can check
> at http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs600/ama_kit.html
to see the latest list
>
> to see if the MG is on the list.
>
>
Thanks, but I am not having any luck getting through to
that address. Are you
sure it is current?
Merry Christmas,
Dave
_______________
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph J. Like" <josephlike(at)cox.net> |
Merry Christmas every one. And a Happy New Year.
Hugs
Joseph J. Like
The Night Before Christmas
'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the ramp,
Not an airplane was stirring, not even a Champ.
The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care,
In hopes that come morning, they all would be there.
The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots,
With gusts from two-forty at 39 knots.
I slumped at the fuel desk, now finally caught up,
And settled down comfortably, resting my butt.
When the radio lit up with noise and with chatter,
I turned up the scanner to see what was the matter.
A voice clearly heard over static and snow,
Called for clearance to land at the airport below.
He barked his transmission so lively and quick,
I'd have sworn that the call sign he used was "St. Nick".
I ran to the panel to turn up the lights,
The better to welcome this magical flight.
He called his position, no room for denial,
"St. Nicholas One, turnin' left onto final."
And what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a Rutan-built sleigh, with eight Rotax Reindeer!
With vectors to final, down the glideslope he came,
As he passed all fixes, he called them by name:
"Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
On Comet! On Cupid!" What pills was he takin'?
While controllers were sittin', and scratchin' their head,
They phoned to my office, and I heard it with dread,
The message they left was both urgent and dour:
"When Santa pulls in, have him please call the tower."
He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking,
Then I heard "Left at Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
He slowed to a taxi, turned off of three-oh
And stopped on the ramp with a "Ho, ho-ho-ho..."
He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk,
I ran out to meet him with my best set of chocks.
His red helmet and goggles were covered with frost
And his beard was all blackened from Reindeer exhaust.
His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale,
And he puffed on a pipe, but he didn't inhale.
His cheeks were all rosy and jiggled like jelly,
His boots were as black as a cropduster's belly.
He was chubby and plump, in his suit of bright red,
And he asked me to "fill it, with hundred low-lead."
He came dashing in from the snow-covered pump,
I knew he was anxious for drainin' the sump.
I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work,
And I filled up the sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
He came out of the restroom, and sighed in relief,
Then he picked up a phone for a Flight Service brief.
And I thought as he silently scribed in his log,
These reindeer could land in an eighth-mile fog.
He completed his pre-flight, from the front to the rear,
Then he put on his headset, and I heard him yell, "Clear!"
And laying a finger on his push-to-talk,
He called up the tower for clearance and squawk.
"Take taxiway Charlie, the southbound direction,
Turn right three-two-zero at pilot's discretion"
He sped down the runway, the best of the best,
"Your traffic's a Grumman, inbound from the west."
Then I heard him proclaim, as he climbed thru the night,
"Merry Christmas to all! I have traffic in sight."
Merry Christmas! Happy New Year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com> |
Mod 58 calls for a replacement of the tab drive pin for kits delivered before Dec
2000. I picked up my kit in Dec 2000, so I am not sure if I have the old pins
or the new pins. Does anyone know how I can tell the difference? I could call
the sales office, but they are closed until January 6.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
Andrew:
The mounting plates for the good pins are about 0.125" thick. The bad ones
are about half that thick.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Andrew Sarangan <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com>
> Date: 12/26/02 3:46:46 PM
> Subject: Mod 58
>
> Mod 58 calls for a replacement of the tab drive pin for kits delivered
before Dec 2000. I picked up my kit in Dec 2000, so I am not sure if I have
the old pins or the new pins. Does anyone know how I can tell the
difference? I could call the sales office, but they are closed until
January 6.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
Andrew,
The sales office is closed but the helpline is being manned every day except
Xmas & New Years day. Call them on 01751 433475
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Mod 58
Mod 58 calls for a replacement of the tab drive pin for kits delivered
before Dec 2000. I picked up my kit in Dec 2000, so I am not sure if I have
the old pins or the new pins. Does anyone know how I can tell the
difference? I could call the sales office, but they are closed until January
6.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Andrew Hi!
> The mounting plates for the good pins are about 0.125" thick. The bad
> ones
> are about half that thick.
If the mounting plates you have are the 'old' type then I have a spare
set here in UK that I will happily send to you in USA. Today if
necessary. The 6th of Jan is a long way off.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Dawson" <mtd(at)ilkley.fsbusiness.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: LOng Range Tank |
Thanks to you who showed interest in my long range tank - it was a matter
of first come etc so it will end up with Gavin Lee and eventually upside
down in New Zealand. Hope you all have a good Xmas and plenty of flying
hours in 2003.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Dawson" <mtd(at)ilkley.fsbusiness.co.uk>
Subject: LOng Range Tank
I have a long range tank for a monowheel for sale. It has not been used at
all and is complete except for one or two small pipe fittings,and the tie
down straps, obtainable from Europa. List now 165 - will post to you P & P
paid for 115.
Michael Dawson Bldr 95.
----- Original Message -----
From: "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net>
Subject: Re: Europas on top in France
> Alan, I think James Bond has a certain amount to answer for! I also have
> dreamed of landing at Courcheval Altiport and then skiing down the
mountain.
> I have gone some way to making it possible, and would have taken my Europa
> there this summer had not the Mistral been blowing down the Rhone at 60
kts!
> Certainly you need an altiport endorsement for landing on any of their
> sloping runway altiports and it needs to be current(within 6 months of
exam
> or actual landings, I believe.) Details in the French Bottlang. It isn't
> however too difficult to get an endorsement. I happened on a school of
> altiport flying while on a skiing holiday at Alpe d'Huez. There is an
> absolutely cracking young female instructor there with dark brown eyes and
> hair down to her waist (who would have given me serious trouble had I been
a
> bit younger!) A couple of hours flying gave me a reasonable introduction
to
> the principles of mountain flying and sufficient circuits to satisfy her
> that I would pass the test (basically a few landings with a local
examiner)
> and it was brilliant fun, some of the very best flying ever, quite apart
> from the company! I forget how much it cost but I think it was a bit
cheaper
> than English flying school rates and worth every penny!You can also
organise
> training and check outs at Grenoble and no doubt at other flat valley
floor
> airfields on the border of the Alps.Happy Xmas David Joyce----- Original
> Message -----
> From: Alan D Stewart <alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
> Subject: Europas on top in France
>
>
> > Having just received the Dec 2002 (Issue 36) Europa News, I noticed on
> > page 15 that one Remi Guerner has succesfully flown his French
> > registered aircraft onto a number of mountain strips in France.
> >
> > For a number of years, I've dreamed of the opportunity to do exactly
> > this. La Rosiere and Courchevel/Meribel are exactly where I would like
> > to be on a calm weekend during a stable weather window over the next few
> > months.
> >
> > I had assumed that piloting my own aircraft would not be permitted due
> > to the local requirement that visitors possess a 'French Mountain
> > Licence', verifying their competence in the prevailing conditions. This
> > would be time consuming and costly to obtain.
> >
> > Are there circumstances where this requirement is waived ? Last years'
> > 'Guide Delage' suggests not, but perhaps I'm in error ?
> >
> > Remi, please get in touch, or alternatively does anyone know of his
> > personal email ?
> >
> > An arial shortcut to the Alps during the skiing season. Now that would
> > be a great Christmas present !
> >
> > Alan
> > BWFX
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
I noticed on Thomas Schroeder's web site he has fitted landing lights to the
wheel spats of his trigear. What a great Idea I thought, nicely hidden and
effective. I like to be seen especially after last year when on a nil wind
day a non radio plonker decided to land on a different runway to me!!
Anyone thought about doing it and putting a mod through?
Regards
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com> |
OK, thanks. I spoke to Andy Draper and he confirmed that I do have the old pins.
The old ones are 1/16" thick plates whereas the new ones are 1/10" thick. Good
thing I checked this before bonding them into place.
Steve Hagar wrote:
Andrew:
The mounting plates for the good pins are about 0.125" thick. The bad ones
are about half that thick.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Andrew Sarangan
> Date: 12/26/02 3:46:46 PM
> Subject: Mod 58
>
> Mod 58 calls for a replacement of the tab drive pin for kits delivered
before Dec 2000. I picked up my kit in Dec 2000, so I am not sure if I have
the old pins or the new pins. Does anyone know how I can tell the
difference? I could call the sales office, but they are closed until
January 6.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
> In the event of problems contact
> The Europa Club website is at
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
In the event of problems contact
The Europa Club website is at
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | US 2V DC Load Center |
Hello all,
I'm thinking about using the Expbus 2v, anyone have any experience with it?
I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electric systems and was searching for
something prefab.
http://www.controlvision.com/pages/avionics_purchase.htm
Thanks,
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tank placement/ Email |
Is anyone getting mail answered from Europa I email a question twice since
12/5/02 and have not gotten an answer. It was about fuel tank placement:
>The 2 cm is the gap is on the bottom of the tank to the bottom of the
baggage bay right? Not the
>gap on top of the tank. What is the minimum for that gap, do I have some
play? Say 1.5 cm? If I run
>a straight edge from the top of one redux foot print of CS14 bracket to the
other, and I still have a
>gap to the fuel tank, I should be good right? Or did I miss something? I
have a good 1/8 gap at my
>fuel bosses to pitch torque tube.
The answer that I was looking for was the one about running a straight edge
from the top, inside of one CS14 bracket to the other. If I can do that and
clear the tank, I don't see how I could run into problems with the spars. I
hope that's right because the tanks is in now. I'm going to rig the wings one
more time then glue in the cockpit module. Rigging will tell me today, but I
was hoping to avoid tank removal if I was off base.
Happy new year!
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Kevin Hi!
Kevin Taylor wrote:
> I noticed on Thomas Schroeder's web site he has fitted landing lights
> to the
> wheel spats of his trigear. What a great Idea I thought, nicely hidden
> and
> effective.
> Anyone thought about doing it and putting a mod through?
I have fabricated a landing Light assembly for fitment in bottom Engine
Cowl. It's a 30W Ident Light from Aircraft Spruce and with good sharp
output. I felt that was the maximum current I could allow. It may well
be that the Cowling fitment is not suitable and it's at that point I
may consider Spats. No, I haven't applied for a Mod Status as nothing
is firm but obviously will do nearer the time. Not a pleasing
thought....
A 30Watt lamp produces a fair amount of local heat so any placement
needs 'observance' and 'soak testing' for local heat damage.
Flying in Somerset area is beset with Low Flying Military as is many
other parts of UK and although making appropriate use of FIS I still
think it pertinent to be as visible as possible. I have also fitted
Upper and Lower Strobes from Airworld with good effect although they've
to be flown yet. An additional source of light such as you mention can
only help. IMHO.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
When I got my kit, I was told not to bond the drive pins on until I got the
horizontal stabilizer fully mounted, because "They never line up right, and
you have to cut at least one off and move it." I stuck mine on a flox pad but
didn't tape it over. If I have to move it, it will be easy.
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPBUS 2V DC Load Center |
Steve
It looks like a good device to me. I read the diagram and it is OK. If you
are not going to design your own electrical system, it will do every thing
the you would want to do but can't. It has many "better ideas".
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
----- Original Message -----
From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
Subject: EXPBUS 2V DC Load Center
> Hello all,
> I'm thinking about using the Expbus 2v, anyone have any experience with
it?
> I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electric systems and was searching
for
> something prefab.
> http://www.controlvision.com/pages/avionics_purchase.htm
> Thanks,
> SteveD
> A217
> http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPBUS 2V DC Load Center |
Steve
Take a look at the Aero Electric WEB site. Bob has an article on his site
about this product and poly fuses. I believe that Europa in Lakeland (back
in the Bob Buerbe day's) used to sell them but had delivery problems from
the vender
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
Subject: EXPBUS 2V DC Load Center
> Hello all,
> I'm thinking about using the Expbus 2v, anyone have any experience with
it?
> I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electric systems and was searching
for
> something prefab.
> http://www.controlvision.com/pages/avionics_purchase.htm
> Thanks,
> SteveD
> A217
> http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EXPBUS 2V DC Load Center |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Steve Hi!
EXP Bus.
I am using it and wiring is underway as we speak. A Europa I know very
well is flying with one fitted and it has never been a problem and it
certainly assisted in focussing the mind on where to start with wiring
if it's not your 'top subject'. I leave the owner of that Europa to
contact you as he sees fit.
My reason for using it stemmed from having a need for 'start point' at
which to commence wiring. The addition of poly-fuses to 'protect'
wiring was OK with me but certainly has stirred debate in the past
history of the Europa Mail List. The well known 'guru' on Aircraft
Electrical systems Bob Nuckolls had a heated debate in past with
Control Vision, the makers of the EXP Bus. His main argument was
regarding the claims made of a faster wiring job or indeed easier. I'm
not getting into that argument. I'm happy with my choice and for me it
is helping keep a fragile sense of knowing what I'm doing and what goes
where and how.
It is not a low cost option but is not out of line with other ways of
controlling Aircraft Power.
I have also included the Indicator Panel in addition to Exp Bus to give
warnings and voltage levels.
So in summary. I liked the idea of EXP Bus, I've seen it in action and
am using it myself. It will not appeal to all but that's the democracy
of choice.
Kind Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
My apologies that should have course read scherer www.thomas.scherer.com
One of the most amazing sites I have seen for a long while. A great aviator
and explorer in one. I got some info from him the other day on his next
mission early 2oo3: flight from Mongolia through Australia to Germany and
then again over the Atlantic
to the USA.
Regards
Kev T
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Landing Lights
Kevin Hi!
Kevin Taylor wrote:
> I noticed on Thomas Schroeder's web site he has fitted landing lights
> to the
> wheel spats of his trigear. What a great Idea I thought, nicely hidden
> and
> effective.
> Anyone thought about doing it and putting a mod through?
I have fabricated a landing Light assembly for fitment in bottom Engine
Cowl. It's a 30W Ident Light from Aircraft Spruce and with good sharp
output. I felt that was the maximum current I could allow. It may well
be that the Cowling fitment is not suitable and it's at that point I
may consider Spats. No, I haven't applied for a Mod Status as nothing
is firm but obviously will do nearer the time. Not a pleasing
thought....
A 30Watt lamp produces a fair amount of local heat so any placement
needs 'observance' and 'soak testing' for local heat damage.
Flying in Somerset area is beset with Low Flying Military as is many
other parts of UK and although making appropriate use of FIS I still
think it pertinent to be as visible as possible. I have also fitted
Upper and Lower Strobes from Airworld with good effect although they've
to be flown yet. An additional source of light such as you mention can
only help. IMHO.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT gauge sensor?
There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
David
G-BZAM, UK 265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
----- Original Message -----
"From: "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk>
Subject: OAT gauge sensor
Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT gauge
sensor?
There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
David"
David,
Happy New Year to you as well!
Perhaps engine bay heat and exhaust heat are best avoided for
the OAT sensor, but I don't trhink there's any wind chill effect to worry
about. If it's the windchill the TV weather moguls chat about, that has an
effect only on humans and is a measure of heat loss from exposed skin. If
anything methinks there is a temperature rise due to the motion of molecules
impinging on the sensor. That can have as much as 25C degrees rise on
subsonic sensors, buit no much on our speed range.
I'll join you inbeing interested on opinion for placement on the
Europa............
Cheers, Ferg A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
I bought a pair of 35W halogen lamps, 12-deg beam, but found them
barely adequate as mere taxi lights at night. Theory was that 70% of a
100W landing light would be 70% effective. However, in then looking
up specs, the common 13V aircraft lamp has 110,000 candlepower at
similar beam width; the halogens 3500 cp. Or watt-for-watt, < 10% of
the aircraft (but short life, high amps) lamp.
Similarly in a daylight test on a dark overcast day, at 1,000 ft, you
can about see the halogen, but at that distance the airplane itself is
too big to miss visually. At 1/2 mile, minimum for daytime safety I'd
think, forget it, as brightness decreases with square of distance or
1/7th as bright. At one mile, that's 1/28th. Then figure in a
brighter day.
Anyone know of decent candles w/o excessive $$ or amps? Looked in GE
catalog, and no dice except actual aircraft lamps.
Regards,
Fred F.
Kevin Taylor wrote:
>
> I noticed on Thomas Schroeder's web site he has fitted landing lights to the
> wheel spats of his trigear. What a great Idea I thought, nicely hidden and
> effective. I like to be seen especially after last year when on a nil wind
> day a non radio plonker decided to land on a different runway to me!!
>
> Anyone thought about doing it and putting a mod through?
>
> Regards
>
> Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
David,
I am installing my OAT in the Cold air plenum chamber for the Carbs. I centered
my NACA
flush inlet on the top cowling and have placed the OAT on the starboard wall of
the
chamber itself away from most of the ram effect of the NACA inlet.
Not flying yet so can not tell you how accurate it is.
Cheers,
Tim
"David.Corbett" wrote:
> Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT gauge
sensor?
>
> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
>
> Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
>
> David
>
> G-BZAM, UK 265
--
Timothy P Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch,
NEW ZEALAND
Ph. 0064 3 3515166
email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Mobile 025 2649325
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris" <chris(at)lakeside.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
Hi Tim
Sorry to tell you been there done that dosn't work(seemed a good idea at the
time). Sensor must pick up radiated heat from under cowls Thinking of
moving it to under wheel tunnel or behind D panel. Somewhere near an
opening, maybe flap torque tube.
Best wishes
Chris Washington (G-CHUG)
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: OAT gauge sensor
> David,
> I am installing my OAT in the Cold air plenum chamber for the Carbs. I
centered my NACA
> flush inlet on the top cowling and have placed the OAT on the starboard
wall of the
> chamber itself away from most of the ram effect of the NACA inlet.
> Not flying yet so can not tell you how accurate it is.
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> "David.Corbett" wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT
gauge sensor?
> >
> > There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind
chill.
> >
> > Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
> >
> > David
> >
> > G-BZAM, UK 265
>
> --
> Timothy P Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street,
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch,
> NEW ZEALAND
>
> Ph. 0064 3 3515166
> email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> Mobile 025 2649325
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Skinner Jr." <stuartjr(at)telocity.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NSO Cap 140 Gauge |
I have the complete prop, slip ring and gauge setup, however it is not
working as advertised. It did at one point. I am searching for bench test
procedures for verifying the prop signal output and for generating know
signal to the gauge input.
Stu Skinner Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
After using the inside of the wheel well for practice and making a gloppy
mess of the whole situation I came up with a good routine for the inside
of the aircraft. The wheel well was exposed to Zolatone's own power spray
touch up gun from Spruce, and a pressure feed gun. Half assed results
obtained from both. I rightly expected this as their web page gives
about seven pages of instruction on the care and feeding of the stuff.
It sits and moves when you open up the can and look in. The guys over at
Phoenix composits even bitched about using it in a Europa they are doing.The
El-cheapo pressure feed gun was obtained from Harbor freight (Item
#00215) for just slightly more than the cost of a gallon of the paint.
Typical setup costs with a pressure pot are well over $200. In any case
I didn't want the interior looking like the inside of the wheel well. I
had one more opportunity for practice to try something different. The
seat bases and the baggage bay access panels need the treatment and can
be easily sanded or remade if glopped up. The paint is too expensive
(Spruce $55/gallon, local paint store $32/quart!) to practice on
something that positively has to be thrown away.The Zolatone people say
the paint likes big nozzles, though when you spend $60 for the gun you
really can't expect to get what you want. Number drills work in a pinch.
I opened up the nozzle in steps making sure to pressurize the gun with
water in it to make sure the needle would keep the nozzle sealed. I got
to the point where a drop of water leaked out under pressure. Oops too
far. However the viscous paint stayed put just fine. Final hole size
.063~.067".My top and bottom fuselages are still apart so much masking
was done and assumptions were made where further layups are going to be
made (fuel filler, baggage bulkhead etc). A small amount of paint was
put in the cup to avoid a lot of clean upwhen making another unacceptable
mess. The panels were sprayed, and wonder of wonders the finish went on
like a professional had done it! Lets do some spraying!!! Fill that cup
up. The top, bottom, and entire instrument module as well as the center
panel between the doors was done. They all came out looking great enough
so that I am going to go with mimimal to no fabric/padding
interior.We'll save some weight and look a little military inside. I
used a gallon and a quart and went with Zolatone's basic blue. I'll have
to see how it turns out when I go in and paint over the layups after
everything is bonded togetherand wired up.--- Steve HagarA143Mesa, AZ---
hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
We generally place the OAT sensor thru the fuselage skin in the wing root
area. It could also be placed in any NACA vent opening but if used in any
of the cowling intakes, a disconnect may be inconvenient.
Bob Berube A166
Flight Crafters
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Re: OAT gauge sensor
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> "From: "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk>
> Subject: OAT gauge sensor
> Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT
gauge
> sensor?
> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
> Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
> David"
>
> David,
> Happy New Year to you as well!
> Perhaps engine bay heat and exhaust heat are best avoided for
> the OAT sensor, but I don't trhink there's any wind chill effect to worry
> about. If it's the windchill the TV weather moguls chat about, that has an
> effect only on humans and is a measure of heat loss from exposed skin. If
> anything methinks there is a temperature rise due to the motion of
molecules
> impinging on the sensor. That can have as much as 25C degrees rise on
> subsonic sensors, buit no much on our speed range.
> I'll join you inbeing interested on opinion for placement on
the
> Europa............
> Cheers, Ferg A064
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | ders log - accepted practices? |
My builders log so far has simply been margin notes and dates scribbled into theEuropa
builders manual. I attach a few pictures now and then. It is nothing like
theformal logbook I keep in my lab at work.Since the builders manual is very
well written, and since I am following the manualalmost exactly, I see little
point in copying all of that information into a separate notebook. My question
is, is this going to be acceptable to the FAA? Anyone haveexperience with
this?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builders log - accepted practices? |
I sure hope so, that's what I've been doing. But with lots of pictures.
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
In a message dated 12/28/2002 9:18:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk writes:
> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
>
Wind chill does not register on an OAT - the "wind chill" is merely the way
the temperature "feels" - very subjective. You get a better response from the
OAT probe by placing it in the free stream somehow. I am planning to put mine
under the airplane -- probably behind the main wheel to have the least drag
effect.
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builders log - accepted practices? |
In a message dated 12/28/2002 6:41:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ScramIt(at)aol.com writes:
> I sure hope so, that's what I've been doing. But with lots of pictures.
>
Here is a data point. I have been keeping records in a log and transferring
them to the excel spread sheet, where I include pictures. I just met with the
FAA inspector and will be getting the inspection in about one week or two. I
asked him if I needed to print out the excel log or if he could just look at
a laptop.
He said he wouldn't even be looking at it at all!
Go figure!
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
I saw a note in Sport Aviation about HID lights. They look pretty
interesting but also some what pricy. Look at http://www.aerovisions.com/.
Also look at www.autobulbdepot.com.
Jim & Heather A185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jginther <jginth(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders log - accepted practices? |
I know each one is different, but...I have had the FAA inspector to the shop
3 times in the last 9 months. He likes lots of photos of the building steps
and simple checks and dates along side the margins of the builder's manual
when each step is completed.
John G
A228
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Sarangan" <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Builders log - accepted practices?
> My builders log so far has simply been margin notes and dates scribbled
into theEuropa builders manual. I attach a few pictures now and then. It is
nothing like theformal logbook I keep in my lab at work.Since the builders
manual is very well written, and since I am following the manualalmost
exactly, I see little point in copying all of that information into a
separate notebook. My question is, is this going to be acceptable to the
FAA? Anyone haveexperience with this?
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
David and All,
Is there a particular type of OAT gauge and probe that is recommended for
our type use? If so Please may I have suggestions. I had thought of buying
another probe similar to the one that comes with the Skydrive Carb Heat kit
for recording the carb temp. This, perhaps, could be linked to the same
gauge in the panel with a change over switch so as to save panel space. One
could then flick between OAT and carb temp. Most grateful for any comments
on this suggestion please?
Very best wishes for a Happy New Year to you all,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk>
Subject: OAT gauge sensor
Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT gauge
sensor?
There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
David
G-BZAM, UK 265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
Dave, Don't forget that the main wheel is in the stream of warm air flowing
out from the engine compartment! David Joyce
----- Original Message -----
From: <DJA727(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: OAT gauge sensor
> In a message dated 12/28/2002 9:18:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk writes:
>
> > There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind
chill.
> >
>
> Wind chill does not register on an OAT - the "wind chill" is merely the
way
> the temperature "feels" - very subjective. You get a better response from
the
> OAT probe by placing it in the free stream somehow. I am planning to put
mine
> under the airplane -- probably behind the main wheel to have the least
drag
> effect.
>
> Dave
> A227
> Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
I don't think there is any wind chill - I believe it only applies to warm
bodies. I am not sure about solar warming though. Seasons greetings.
Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk>
Subject: OAT gauge sensor
> Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT
gauge sensor?
>
> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
>
> Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
>
> David
>
> G-BZAM, UK 265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Zolatone Heaven |
Almost all Ban-bis are painted inside with Zolatone. The recommendations are
for a pressure pot system and I got a contractor to paint my first plane
with such a set up. However I later touched up some smaller parts with a
standard gun and it worked fine. One of my customers used an underseal gun
to good effect. I think the over size nozzle is the answer.
Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Zolatone Heaven
> After using the inside of the wheel well for practice and making a gloppy
> mess of the whole situation I came up with a good routine for the inside
> of the aircraft. The wheel well was exposed to Zolatone's own power spray
> touch up gun from Spruce, and a pressure feed gun. Half assed results
> obtained from both. I rightly expected this as their web page gives
> about seven pages of instruction on the care and feeding of the stuff.
> It sits and moves when you open up the can and look in. The guys over at
> Phoenix composits even bitched about using it in a Europa they are doing.
The
> El-cheapo pressure feed gun was obtained from Harbor freight (Item
> #00215) for just slightly more than the cost of a gallon of the paint.
> Typical setup costs with a are well over $200. In any case
> I didn't want the interior looking like the inside of the wheel well. I
> had one more opportunity for practice to try something different. The
> seat bases and the baggage bay access panels need the treatment and can
> be easily sanded or remade if glopped up. The paint is too expensive
> (Spruce $55/gallon, local paint store $32/quart!) to practice on
> something that positively has to be thrown away. The Zolatone people say
> the paint likes big nozzles, though when you spend $60 for the gun you
> really can't expect to get what you want. Number drills work in a pinch.
> I opened up the nozzle in steps making sure to pressurize the gun with
> water in it to make sure the needle would keep the nozzle sealed. I got
> to the point where a drop of water leaked out under pressure. Oops too
> far. However the viscous paint stayed put just fine. Final hole size
> .063~.067". My top and bottom fuselages are still apart so much masking
> was done and assumptions were made where further layups are going to be
> made (fuel filler, baggage bulkhead etc). A small amount of paint was
> put in the cup to avoid a lot of clean upwhen making another unacceptable
> mess. The panels were sprayed, and wonder of wonders the finish went on
> like a professional had done it! Lets do some spraying!!! Fill that cup
> up. The top, bottom, and entire instrument module as well as the center
> panel between the doors was done. They all came out looking great enough
> so that I am going to go with mimimal to no fabric/padding
> interior. We'll save some weight and look a little military inside. I
> used a gallon and a quart and went with Zolatone's basic blue. I'll have
> to see how it turns out when I go in and paint over the layups after
> everything is bonded together and wired up. --- Steve HagarA143Mesa, AZ---
> hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
Message text written by "David.Corbett"
>Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT
gauge sensor?
There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.<
I placed mine in the port side NACA fresh air duct inlet just poking down
through the upper triangular wedge face (my ducts are fixed open and flow
controlled by a car vent outlet). This position was chosen as it is shaded
from the sun and doesn't receive any significant ram air heating. It seems
to work OK with no change whether the vent is open or closed. The position
is also quite convenient for connecting to the panel. Anyone buying either
the uMonitor or uEncoder is supplied with this sensor so an extra gauge on
the panel is not necessary. I have both and use the uEncoder display for
OAT and the uMonitor display for fuel temperature. It is quite interesting
to watch the fuel temperature climb after shutdown. In UK summer conditions
I regularly see fuel temps in the high thirties degC five minutes after
shutdown. I find that the engine compartment cools a little quicker if the
inspection doors are left open during a short turnround (just be sure to
check they are closed before the next departure).
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
In a message dated 12/29/2002 2:32:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
davidjoyce(at)beeb.net writes:
> Dave, Don't forget that the main wheel is in the stream of warm air flowing
> out from the engine compartment!
Oops - hadn't thought of that - how about in the fresh air inlet on the side
of the fuselage?
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zolatone Heaven |
Hi All,
I successfully used Zolatone with a HVLP gun fitted with a 2mm nozzle. It
took 3 coats to get the coverage I wanted though.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Zolatone Heaven
> Almost all Ban-bis are painted inside with Zolatone. The recommendations
are
> for a pressure pot system and I got a contractor to paint my first plane
> with such a set up. However I later touched up some smaller parts with a
> standard gun and it worked fine. One of my customers used an underseal gun
> to good effect. I think the over size nozzle is the answer.
>
> Jerry
> Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
> www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Zolatone Heaven
>
>
> > After using the inside of the wheel well for practice and making a
gloppy
> > mess of the whole situation I came up with a good routine for the inside
> > of the aircraft. The wheel well was exposed to Zolatone's own power
spray
> > touch up gun from Spruce, and a pressure feed gun. Half assed results
> > obtained from both. I rightly expected this as their web page gives
> > about seven pages of instruction on the care and feeding of the stuff.
> > It sits and moves when you open up the can and look in. The guys over at
> > Phoenix composits even bitched about using it in a Europa they are
doing.
> The
> > El-cheapo pressure feed gun was obtained from Harbor freight (Item
> > #00215) for just slightly more than the cost of a gallon of the paint.
> > Typical setup costs with a are well over $200. In any case
> > I didn't want the interior looking like the inside of the wheel well. I
> > had one more opportunity for practice to try something different. The
> > seat bases and the baggage bay access panels need the treatment and can
> > be easily sanded or remade if glopped up. The paint is too expensive
> > (Spruce $55/gallon, local paint store $32/quart!) to practice on
> > something that positively has to be thrown away. The Zolatone people say
> > the paint likes big nozzles, though when you spend $60 for the gun you
> > really can't expect to get what you want. Number drills work in a pinch.
> > I opened up the nozzle in steps making sure to pressurize the gun with
> > water in it to make sure the needle would keep the nozzle sealed. I got
> > to the point where a drop of water leaked out under pressure. Oops too
> > far. However the viscous paint stayed put just fine. Final hole size
> > .063~.067". My top and bottom fuselages are still apart so much masking
> > was done and assumptions were made where further layups are going to be
> > made (fuel filler, baggage bulkhead etc). A small amount of paint was
> > put in the cup to avoid a lot of clean upwhen making another
unacceptable
> > mess. The panels were sprayed, and wonder of wonders the finish went on
> > like a professional had done it! Lets do some spraying!!! Fill that cup
> > up. The top, bottom, and entire instrument module as well as the center
> > panel between the doors was done. They all came out looking great enough
> > so that I am going to go with mimimal to no fabric/padding
> > interior. We'll save some weight and look a little military inside. I
> > used a gallon and a quart and went with Zolatone's basic blue. I'll have
> > to see how it turns out when I go in and paint over the layups after
> > everything is bonded together and wired up. --- Steve HagarA143Mesa,
AZ---
> > hagargs(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | tTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
I am looking at purchasing a digital level. It seems
that everyones favorite model is the SmartTool
manufacturedby Macklanburg-Duncan. Amazon.com is
selling
these for $99. However, there appears to be another
electronic level made by Zircon that is only $40. I
don't know the difference between the two. For such a
large price difference I am assuming that there are
large differences. Anyone know?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders log - accepted practices? |
There are two other aspects to a construciton log worth considering.
If an incomplete project were to be sold, then when the FAA inspects
the buyer's airplane, they will be very interested in evidence that
the person(s) doing the previous work qualify also as amateur" vs.
hired help. The more log detail implying such the better, plus
further affecting resale value of the project if it implies quality
workmanship.
Also for liability reasons, the builder's log should not be given to
the buyer on sale of a completed/signed-off aircraft but should be
destroyed. In my case, there is a growing, separate chapter called
"Testing," which will be retained. However, for maintenance purposes,
the Europa manual is a good document to go with the airplane upon
sale. Where one makes notes in it beyond dates and check marks,
however, it is best done on a copy for eventual discard.
Suits against builders here are so far rare, in part because
"forensically" analyzing a wreck using experts is very expensive.
What you don't want then in the hands of a plaintiff is the cheap path
to a lawsuit with things you wrote down anywhere to be taken out of
context in stitching together a negligence argument! Ditto for
brevity in maintenance logs, which should go with the aircraft, and
retain copies for yourself.
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
> I saw a note in Sport Aviation about HID lights. They look pretty
> interesting but also some what pricy. Look at http://www.aerovisions.com/.
> Also look at www.autobulbdepot.com.
>
> Jim & Heather A185
Might be cautious of nonaircraft versions. I understand they use an
around 90V square-wave to keep 'em glowing, and that could annoy the
heck out of avionics!
It would be nice also if they told you the current draw, as while the
lamps may consume less power after 20kV startup, I don't think cooling
fins on a power supply are just decorative.
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
| From: | Paul Atkinson <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
David
I have mine slotted through a hole in the inboard side of the forward
face of the left hand seat thigh support, which means that the business
end projects into the wheelwell facing to the rear. In theory at least
it should avoid any effect from exhaust. So far it is untested.
Happy new year to you and all builders and flyers.
Paul
On Saturday, December 28, 2002, at 05:04 , David.Corbett wrote:
> Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT
> gauge sensor?
>
> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind
> chill.
>
> Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
>
> David
>
> G-BZAM, UK 265
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
"David.Corbett" wrote:
> Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT gauge
sensor?>> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.>>
Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.>>
David,>> G-BZAM, UK 265David,I am installing my OAT in the Cold air plenum
chamber for the Carbs. I centered my NACA
flush inlet on the top cowling and have placed the OAT on the starboard wall of
the
chamber itself away from most of the ram effect of the NACA inlet. Not flying yet
so can not tell you how accurate it is. Cheers,Tim
Hi David,
I have an OAT sensor supplied by Grand Rapids Technology for my Engine
Information System (EIS) display. It is about 0.250" dia x 1.250" long.
Initially I installed mine in the carb intake plenum as suggested by Tim
Ward in the reply above. However, I did not have good experience with
this location and have now changed it. Two problems were apparent.
Firstly, after shut down, heat soak from the engine bay would provide
erroneously high readings and secondly when flying, I always showed
higher readings compared to poking a dial gauge probe out of the cockpit
NACA vent. Am not sure why that was but it was always high by 5-10 deg C
as I recollect, despite the fact that I do have quite good a good seal
where my plenum intake fits to the top cowling.
I have now secured the probe with a small nylon P-clamp to the lower
front face of the cooler intake duct, i.e. if you bend down and look
into the intake behind the prop, it is the first thing you see. It is
about 1" to the rear from the front edge. The signal lead is taken
through a grommet back to the panel. Again, there can be a small amount
of heat soak after a shut down but this is minimal and the probe is
immediately cooled when the engine is started.
Cheers, John
N262WF, XS mono, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
In an exercise in creative thinking, if the OAT is a thermocouple, then
positioning it someplace in the fuselage in contact with a piece of metal
exposed to the elements on the outside, will result in an accurate, albiet slow
response, reading.
The tailplane torque tube comes to mind. No evaporative cooling from getting
wet, not exposed to the elements, no drag - but a long way to run the wires.
As I said, just being creative.
Cleve Lee
A198 MonoXS, Jabiru 3300
>
> David and All,
>
> Is there a particular type of OAT gauge and probe that is recommended for
> our type use? If so Please may I have suggestions. I had thought of buying
> another probe similar to the one that comes with the Skydrive Carb Heat kit
> for recording the carb temp. This, perhaps, could be linked to the same
> gauge in the panel with a change over switch so as to save panel space. One
> could then flick between OAT and carb temp. Most grateful for any comments
> on this suggestion please?
>
> Very best wishes for a Happy New Year to you all,
>
> William
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk>
> Subject: OAT gauge sensor
>
>
> Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an OAT gauge
> sensor?
>
> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind chill.
>
> Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you all.
>
> David
>
> G-BZAM, UK 265
> The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
>
>
> The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
Has anyone out there recently purchased the 3300 FWF kit for the Europa from
Jabiru?
Have finally started some work on the installation, and immediately found that
the engine mount didn't fit the engine! (It fits the Europa just fine!)
Turns out the upper port leg interferes with a support arm of the Alternator.
Not an overly difficult situation to remedy, but wondered if anyone else had the
problem with this engine mount, and how they chose to address the problem.
I have an inquiry into Jabiru USA for their comments.
Cleve Lee
A198 MonoXS Jabiru3300 N396ST
Detroit, MI
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
.uk>
>David
>I have mine slotted through a hole in the inboard side of the forward face
>of the left hand seat thigh support, which means that the business end
>projects into the wheelwell facing to the rear. In theory at least it
>should avoid any effect from exhaust. So far it is untested.
>Happy new year to you and all builders and flyers.
>
>Paul
It may well catch the warm air from the engine bay though. Happy New Year Paul
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
> I am looking at purchasing a digital level. It seems
> that everyones favorite model is the SmartTool
> ...However, there appears to be another
> electronic level made by Zircon that is only $40. I
> don't know the difference between the two. For such a
> large price difference I am assuming that there are
> large differences. Anyone know?
The Zircon VideoLevel is a like a bubble level that beeps. The
display is graphical not digits, self-calibrating, and memory for
angles other than level. It's been very handy for jobs other than the
Europa, since you don't have to look at it; beep means level or
plumb. Beep also means within +/- about .07 degree, but in equalizing
wing or tailplane incidence which is only where accuracy is really
needed, a bubble level does that too, and better. Plus one side and
minus on the other could mean as much as .14 deg diff; similar on the
SmartTool?
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
>The Zircon VideoLevel is a like a bubble level that beeps. The
>display is graphical not digits, self-calibrating, and memory for
>angles other than level. It's been very handy for jobs other than the
>Europa, since you don't have to look at it; beep means level or
>plumb. Beep also means within +/- about .07 degree, but in equalizing
>wing or tailplane incidence which is only where accuracy is really
>needed, a bubble level does that too, and better. Plus one side and
>minus on the other could mean as much as .14 deg diff; similar on the
>SmartTool?
>
>Best,
>Fred F.
Fred
That sounds like a more useful tool than the Smart level. The Smart'l used
to have a memory for other angles too but not any more, so you have to do
sums. Good exercise but tedious and open to mistakes.
I once checked my bubble level against a Smart and found I could judge
level to within .1 degree with it. Being able to zero the instrument on the
top of an aileron in neutral, ie minus 10 degrees or whatever, was most
useful.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
Here ia another tool made by Bosch that might do the
same job as a SmartTool or Zircon. It is really a
digital protractor with a spirit level. It sells
for about the same price as the SmartTool ($110).
Check this link:
http://www.boschtools.com/Tools+and+Accessories/Tools/prod_detail.htm?item_no=DWM40L
--- Graham Singleton wrote:
> >The Zircon VideoLevel is a like a bubble level that
> beeps. The
> >display is graphical not digits, self-calibrating,
> and memory for
> >angles other than level. It's been very handy for
> jobs other than the
> >Europa, since you don't have to look at it; beep
> means level or
> >plumb. Beep also means within +/- about .07
> degree, but in equalizing
> >wing or tailplane incidence which is only where
> accuracy is really
> >needed, a bubble level does that too, and better.
> Plus one side and
> >minus on the other could mean as much as .14 deg
> diff; similar on the
> >SmartTool?
> >
> >Best,
> >Fred F.
>
> Fred
> That sounds like a more useful tool than the Smart
> level. The Smart'l used
> to have a memory for other angles too but not any
> more, so you have to do
> sums. Good exercise but tedious and open to
> mistakes.
> I once checked my bubble level against a Smart and
> found I could judge
> level to within .1 degree with it. Being able to
> zero the instrument on the
> top of an aileron in neutral, ie minus 10 degrees or
> whatever, was most
> useful.
> Graham
> >
> ---
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release
> Date: 06/12/2002
> >
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
> In the event of problems contact
>
> The Europa Club website is at
> <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <europa_builder(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
Fred
I am confused by your email. When you say "It's been
very handy for jobs other than the Europa" are you
saying that it has NOT been very useful for the
Europa??
Also, are you saying that the 0.14 deg difference is
too much, or that it is too small to worry about??
Pardon my ignorance, as I am still far from installing
the wings I am not familiar with the required
tolerances. But 0.14 deg seems damn accurate to me.
The SmartTool claims an accuracy of 0.1 deg. It would
seem that the Zircon is better.
--- Fred Fillinger wrote:
> Andrew Sarangan wrote:
> >
> > I am looking at purchasing a digital level. It
> seems
> > that everyones favorite model is the SmartTool
> > ...However, there appears to be another
> > electronic level made by Zircon that is only $40.
> I
> > don't know the difference between the two. For
> such a
> > large price difference I am assuming that there
> are
> > large differences. Anyone know?
>
> The Zircon VideoLevel is a like a bubble level that
> beeps. The
> display is graphical not digits, self-calibrating,
> and memory for
> angles other than level. It's been very handy for
> jobs other than the
> Europa, since you don't have to look at it; beep
> means level or
> plumb. Beep also means within +/- about .07 degree,
> but in equalizing
> wing or tailplane incidence which is only where
> accuracy is really
> needed, a bubble level does that too, and better.
> Plus one side and
> minus on the other could mean as much as .14 deg
> diff; similar on the
> SmartTool?
>
> Best,
> Fred F.
>
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
> In the event of problems contact
>
> The Europa Club website is at
<http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
A bit pricey (212 US), but has a 'floating zero'
http://www.1gg.com/html/body_levlclinometers.html
Cheers,
Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel
Here ia another tool made by Bosch that might do the
same job as a SmartTool or Zircon. It is really a
digital protractor with a spirit level. It sells
for about the same price as the SmartTool ($110).
Check this link:
http://www.boschtools.com/Tools+and+Accessories/Tools/prod_detail.htm?it
em_no=DWM40L
--- Graham Singleton wrote:
> >The Zircon VideoLevel is a like a bubble level that
> beeps. The
> >display is graphical not digits, self-calibrating,
> and memory for
> >angles other than level. It's been very handy for
> jobs other than the
> >Europa, since you don't have to look at it; beep
> means level or
> >plumb. Beep also means within +/- about .07
> degree, but in equalizing
> >wing or tailplane incidence which is only where
> accuracy is really
> >needed, a bubble level does that too, and better.
> Plus one side and
> >minus on the other could mean as much as .14 deg
> diff; similar on the
> >SmartTool?
> >
> >Best,
> >Fred F.
>
> Fred
> That sounds like a more useful tool than the Smart
> level. The Smart'l used
> to have a memory for other angles too but not any
> more, so you have to do
> sums. Good exercise but tedious and open to
> mistakes.
> I once checked my bubble level against a Smart and
> found I could judge
> level to within .1 degree with it. Being able to
> zero the instrument on the
> top of an aileron in neutral, ie minus 10 degrees or
> whatever, was most
> useful.
> Graham
> >
> ---
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release
> Date: 06/12/2002
> >
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
> In the event of problems contact
>
> The Europa Club website is at
> <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
Cheaper (but Still expensive) @ $199US
http://www.emachinetool.com/tooling/temp_top_two.cfm?FamilyID=S310383&So
urce=PTC
If you really want that 'floating zero' functionality
Cheers,
Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel
A bit pricey (212 US), but has a 'floating zero'
http://www.1gg.com/html/body_levlclinometers.html
Cheers,
Pete
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel
Here ia another tool made by Bosch that might do the
same job as a SmartTool or Zircon. It is really a
digital protractor with a spirit level. It sells
for about the same price as the SmartTool ($110).
Check this link:
http://www.boschtools.com/Tools+and+Accessories/Tools/prod_detail.htm?it
em_no=DWM40L
--- Graham Singleton wrote:
> >The Zircon VideoLevel is a like a bubble level that
> beeps. The
> >display is graphical not digits, self-calibrating,
> and memory for
> >angles other than level. It's been very handy for
> jobs other than the
> >Europa, since you don't have to look at it; beep
> means level or
> >plumb. Beep also means within +/- about .07
> degree, but in equalizing
> >wing or tailplane incidence which is only where
> accuracy is really
> >needed, a bubble level does that too, and better.
> Plus one side and
> >minus on the other could mean as much as .14 deg
> diff; similar on the
> >SmartTool?
> >
> >Best,
> >Fred F.
>
> Fred
> That sounds like a more useful tool than the Smart
> level. The Smart'l used
> to have a memory for other angles too but not any
> more, so you have to do
> sums. Good exercise but tedious and open to
> mistakes.
> I once checked my bubble level against a Smart and
> found I could judge
> level to within .1 degree with it. Being able to
> zero the instrument on the
> top of an aileron in neutral, ie minus 10 degrees or
> whatever, was most
> useful.
> Graham
> >
> ---
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release
> Date: 06/12/2002
> >
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
> In the event of problems contact
>
> The Europa Club website is at
> <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engine mount |
Hi! Cleve.
My engine mount was specifically made by the UK Distributor......and after 4
mounts they got it
very close to right ....but the clearances between the torsional members at
the bottom where it straddles the carb float chamber is much too close for
comfort. I have to rotate the carb to be just clear of the port side to be
sure it clears the starboard side when the engine torque reaction happens,
otherwise the float chamber hits the starboard side.
The principle behind the ring mount is of course to enable suitable
positioning of the tie members to NOT interfere with such as alternator
mounts and ignition coil supports but having made that point I had a major
battle with the PFA because the port TOP tie member had to be
1/2" to port of the port TOP node. ( They were unhappy that the member
didn't attach at the node.
However common sense eventually prevailed)
I would have thought that by now such discrepancies would have been ironed
out especially when your FWF kit came from the ORACLES!
When you have sorted this out be sure to have the top MALE rubber spigots
inserted FROM THE FRONT
if by any chance your installation instructions haven't been updated.(Bottom
ones from the rear!)
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300 #084
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
clevelee(at)cswebmail.com
Subject: Jabiru engine mount
Has anyone out there recently purchased the 3300 FWF kit for the Europa from
Jabiru?
Have finally started some work on the installation, and immediately found
that
the engine mount didn't fit the engine! (It fits the Europa just fine!)
Turns out the upper port leg interferes with a support arm of the
Alternator.
Not an overly difficult situation to remedy, but wondered if anyone else had
the
problem with this engine mount, and how they chose to address the problem.
I have an inquiry into Jabiru USA for their comments.
Cleve Lee
A198 MonoXS Jabiru3300 N396ST
Detroit, MI
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Klaus Dietrich <Klaus.Dietrich(at)oracle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
best to put the sensor near the flap drive rod opening; still under the wing root
fairings.
Klaus
Graham Singleton wrote:
>
> >David
> >I have mine slotted through a hole in the inboard side of the forward face
> >of the left hand seat thigh support, which means that the business end
> >projects into the wheelwell facing to the rear. In theory at least it
> >should avoid any effect from exhaust. So far it is untested.
> >Happy new year to you and all builders and flyers.
> >
> >Paul
>
> It may well catch the warm air from the engine bay though. Happy New Year Paul
> Graham
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release Date: 06/12/2002
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremyda(at)microsoft.com> |
I had a look at one of these in a tool shop - it's basically a SmartTool
rebadged, but I couldn't get the offset zero to work on it. My
relatively new SmartTool does that just fine up to an angle of about 5
degrees off true level or plumb.
HNY to all!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel
Here ia another tool made by Bosch that might do the
same job as a SmartTool or Zircon. It is really a
digital protractor with a spirit level. It sells
for about the same price as the SmartTool ($110).
Check this link:
http://www.boschtools.com/Tools+and+Accessories/Tools/prod_detail.htm?it
em_no=DWM40L
--- Graham Singleton wrote:
> >The Zircon VideoLevel is a like a bubble level that
> beeps. The
> >display is graphical not digits, self-calibrating,
> and memory for
> >angles other than level. It's been very handy for
> jobs other than the
> >Europa, since you don't have to look at it; beep
> means level or
> >plumb. Beep also means within +/- about .07
> degree, but in equalizing
> >wing or tailplane incidence which is only where
> accuracy is really
> >needed, a bubble level does that too, and better.
> Plus one side and
> >minus on the other could mean as much as .14 deg
> diff; similar on the
> >SmartTool?
> >
> >Best,
> >Fred F.
>
> Fred
> That sounds like a more useful tool than the Smart
> level. The Smart'l used
> to have a memory for other angles too but not any
> more, so you have to do
> sums. Good exercise but tedious and open to
> mistakes.
> I once checked my bubble level against a Smart and
> found I could judge
> level to within .1 degree with it. Being able to
> zero the instrument on the
> top of an aileron in neutral, ie minus 10 degrees or
> whatever, was most
> useful.
> Graham
> >
> ---
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release
> Date: 06/12/2002
> >
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
> In the event of problems contact
>
> The Europa Club website is at
> <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engine mount |
Hi
There are some curious goings on with engine mounts for Jabiru engines at the
moment. We were the first people (so I believe) to purchase an Australian kit
based on the Australian Jabiru prototype, the prototype being Alan Bowdens in
Australia. They sent us a mount that was too long. The engine fitted, but it
was a mount for a 2200. Jabiru then sent us an engineering drawing which had 2
different dimensions for the same part of the frame. This was questioned with
them. They were to look into it.
In the end, we gave up and purchased a mount from ST Aviation in the UK, who
developed their own, and this fitted fine although we suspect that it puts the
engine in a slightly lower position than the Jabiru mount, by about an inch. We
have modifed the cooling ducts and all is well now. Also we had to make slight
adjustment to the Europa side of the mount as the engine was pointing in the
wrong direction, ie left of centre instead of right of centre. This was not a
major problem though.
Our Jabiru mount is now on its way back to Australia as we speak.
Regards
Eddie
Quoting "clevelee(at)cswebmail.com" :
> Has anyone out there recently purchased the 3300 FWF kit for the Europa from
> Jabiru?
>
> Have finally started some work on the installation, and immediately found
> that
> the engine mount didn't fit the engine! (It fits the Europa just fine!)
>
> Turns out the upper port leg interferes with a support arm of the
> Alternator.
>
> Not an overly difficult situation to remedy, but wondered if anyone else had
> the
> problem with this engine mount, and how they chose to address the problem.
> I have an inquiry into Jabiru USA for their comments.
>
> Cleve Lee
> A198 MonoXS Jabiru3300 N396ST
> Detroit, MI
>
> ___________________________________________________
> The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
> Better! Faster! More Powerful!
> 250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
> http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
>
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------------------------
This mail sent through http://www.easynetdial.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henk Roelofs <henk(at)loginet.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
m>
>Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any suggestions?
Gary,
We have a similar problem.
It's our third winter now and our third battery.
Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide enough
power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current battery
of the type they often use in race cars.
The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
Until next winter I am afraid.
Regards,
Henk & Bart
Europa #264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eamonn Sheridan <ESheridan(at)telepub.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
We experienced the same thing last year, so we bought a portable jump start
pack from Argos for 44 it is excellent but a little heavy to take on a trip
with you. We also bought an Optimate NiCad battery charger 44 from a motor
cycle shop. When the aircraft is in the hanger we leave it on charge for a
day or so and it keeps that battery in tip top condition. It charges at a
very low trickle rate and stops charging when the battery is fully charged.
It is well worth the money.
Eamonn & Paul
G-ROOV
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
>Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any
suggestions?
Gary,
We have a similar problem.
It's our third winter now and our third battery.
Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide enough
power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current battery
of the type they often use in race cars.
The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
Until next winter I am afraid.
Regards,
Henk & Bart
Europa #264
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
| From: | "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com> |
Thanks to all who have responded to my "cold starting" problem. In my case the
solution was simply following everyone's advise........to insure that the throttle
is FULLY CLOSED and the choke full on. It now starts instantly. Previously
I had been opening the throttle just a little, and that won't work. Thanks
to Kim Prout and many others who suggested the correct technique.
Regards,
Garry V. Stout
District Manager, AT&T Business Services
Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
*****Please note new e-mail address******
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
>Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any suggestions?
Gary,
We have a similar problem.
It's our third winter now and our third battery.
Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide enough
power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current battery
of the type they often use in race cars.
The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
Until next winter I am afraid.
Regards,
Henk & Bart
Europa #264
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engine mount |
Cleve, Bob and Eddie
The J3300 engine mount that I received from Jabiru in Dec 01, fit
perfectly.
Tom
beecho@pw-x.com
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
clevelee(at)cswebmail.com
Subject: Jabiru engine mount
Has anyone out there recently purchased the 3300 FWF kit for the Europa
from
Jabiru?
Have finally started some work on the installation, and immediately
found that
the engine mount didn't fit the engine! (It fits the Europa just fine!)
Turns out the upper port leg interferes with a support arm of the
Alternator.
Not an overly difficult situation to remedy, but wondered if anyone else
had the
problem with this engine mount, and how they chose to address the
problem.
I have an inquiry into Jabiru USA for their comments.
Cleve Lee
A198 MonoXS Jabiru3300 N396ST
Detroit, MI
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | t Flight Preparation |
Hello all,
Yesterday was a serious day in the Mini U2 project. I installed the wings for
the last time, after making a few changes and checking the control system
again. I am now looking at having the FAA inspection and paperwork in about 1
to 2 weeks. This brings up some points. I am actually going to fly this thing
and could use the advise of those who have gone before:
Can anyone give me some tips as to critical items to check -- the ones that
can get you killed? I will us the same philosophy here that I do with cockpit
checklists - I only have items that can get me in trouble. Those checklists
usually evolve over a period of time through experience. If you were going to
check one or 2 things on the airplane, what would you check?
Pitch trim friction?
flight control security?
Lubrication of controls and engine controls?
Proper control travel (long wings - different than short)
I am checking thing quite well, but could use any inputs out there from
experience. I of course will be using the flight manual checklist for all
those items listed. This is getting serious!
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Preparation |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Congratulations on getting ready for first flight!
Where are you to conduct the taxi testing and first flight regime?
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
| Subject: | gauge and - A lucky escape... |
I would like to thank everyone who has contributed suggestions to my enquiry. My
proposed solution is to use 2 Skydrive digital temperature gauges, as supplied
for their Rotax carburettor heat kit (good idea, William!), and to put the
sensor down by the flap tube (thank you, Klaus). The two readout units will be
mounted side by side in a small sub-panel that I have fabricated over Christmas
to go in my central overhead roof-lining, thereby giving me a mini airliner
feel to my environment while flying!
It so happens that I have 2 of those digital gauges here. You may wonder why -
and as it is so nearly the end of the year, and a little laughter may cheer us
all up, the story is as follows:
On 27 October 2002, UK experienced a severe gale, with consequences for me and
my Europa that are described in the forwarded e-mail below.
Two days later, the local "fairies" visited my hangar, with its doors lying on
the floor and open to all who cared to look in, and opened my steel tool cupboard.
They removed all the tools (for my aircraft and a friend's Avid), and opened
the carb heat kit parcel which was in the cupboard awaiting fitting. From
that parcel they removed all the "consumables", but not the bits that mattered.
Skydrive supplied me with a full replacement kit, some of which will go back
for credit now that the kit fitting has been completed.
Because the gale damage had left the aircraft trapped inside (and because I was
away on the morning the theft was discovered), the only way that the robbery
was discovered was because the gang had taken all the loot across to the other
side of the airfield, where they had had a sort-out. They rejected my old tool
box, and some useless bits therein; they had taken a 20 litre can of engine
oil for the Avid, and they removed the drum tap, and the oil, from the can, and
left the empty can behind as well. They also left beside the rejected items
an envelope that had been in the toolbox, with my name and address on it - so
the early morning finder was immediately able to contact my son.
Such is the mentality of the local idiot fraternity. The police did come and look
around a few days later, but......! The insurance assessor for the written
off aircraft came almost by return; my insurer's assessor - for the hangar damage
and tool loss - is coming on 3 January.
I would like to attach a photo of the scene, with the written off motorglider lying
outside the hangar, the hangar wide open with the doors on the floor, and
my poor (but lucky) Europa sitting forlornly in the back of the hangar. However,
I believe that the forum protocol does not permit attachments? John Cliff
will correct me if I am wrong.
I am sorry this is such a long-winded e-mail - but it is an amusing story, at least
in retrospect!
Happy New Year to you all - again!
David
----- Original Message -----
From: David.Corbett
Subject: A lucky escape...
As you all know, there was a gale yesterday! The Met Office's Automatic Weather
Station on Shobdon Airfield recorded 72 mph (it may have been kts, I do not yet
know).
When I left my aircraft after a very enjoyable flight back from Booker last Saturday
(19th), it was just inside my hangar doors. There is space for 3 aircraft
in my end of my hangar, but one of the three had been sold and flown away 2/3
weeks ago. I put my Europa at the front leaving an empty space behind it; the
third aircraft, an Avid, is also behind me - with a u/s engine at the moment.
At 0830 on Sunday, almost at the height of the gale, our fire officer inspected
the runway and "airside" areas, and all was in order. At about 0930, after visiting
various road blocks on our patch, including one where some poor lady was
trapped in her car by one of our trees that had fallen across the main road,
I decided to look around the airfield. As I turned onto the perimeter track,
I wondered why some of the 4 sliding doors on my hangar (about 500yds away) were
open.
When I got there, I found that a motor glider, which lives on the grass area 50
yds from the hangar - very securely tied down - had been torn from its position,
pulling the tie-downs out of the ground, and been hurled, without touching
the ground at all, into the doors and gutter of my hangar. The motor glider was
smashed to pieces, 2 of the 4 doors had been knocked down - into the hangar
- and the third had been bent inwards, displaced, but remained in position.
The previous day - Saturday 26th - David Johnstone had decided to try to fix his
u/s engine. He had had to put my Europa to the back of the hangar to get his
Avid out.
How was that for the most incredible luck? Neither his aircraft, nor mine were
in any way damaged by the flying debris.
Thank you, David - that action will never be forgotten!
And the lady? She also had incredible luck. The roof of her car was squashed down
level with the bonnet; the impact with her head broke the sunroof but, although
she is still in hospital with serious head injuries, she will recover.
Thank you, lady luck...!
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
Hello Nigel!
I am shipping the first sets of the wheel fairing system this week. Although
there has been no official Europa or PFA approval, I believe the system to
be rugged, simple, efficient, and safe. I have been using the fairing for
about 300 hours in all wx and field conditions with no problems. I've not
noticed any problems with aerodynamic turbulence (in fact, this corrects
turbulence at the tire anyway) or control at any airspeed, up to Vne
Perhaps I should send a system to the UK for evaluation?!!
Let me know how to do this and to whom to send it.
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Preparation |
In a message dated 12/30/2002 9:24:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, kpav(at)uia.net
writes:
> Congratulations on getting ready for first flight!
> Where are you to conduct the taxi testing and first flight regime?
>
In Minden, Nevada - south of Reno about 1 hour drive time. (MEV)
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Preparation |
| From: | Dale Hetrick <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
Kim,
If you are going to Minden and have room for a passenger, I would like to
go with you.
Dale.
If you haven't shipped Nigels stuff yet, he will be here on Jan 2nd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Runnymede73(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge and - A lucky escape... |
sorry to hear the bad news David
can yoy say if the motor glider (G109B ?) was parked tail to wind ?
rgds
HNY
safe flying
Bill D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Runnymede73(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge and - A lucky escape... |
sorry to hear the bad news David
can you say if the motor glider (G109B ?) was parked tail to wind ?
rgds
HNY
safe flying
Bill D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
Folks,
I know trade adds aren't allowed but praise of good service is.
I needed a new EGT gauge so gave Airzone a call today. They were closed for
the Christmas break but heard my message on the answer machine and called me
back. Ken got me the stock out and sold it to me even though they were
closed.
If you haven't seen the new range of digital instruments you need to! They
have all combinations but I got a single 2.5 inch Digital back light unit
which reads out 2x EGTs and 2 x CHTs. Its configurable to set the screens up
how you want. You can set alarm limits and all kinds of great features. It
weighs nothing and they are very reasonable priced! The one I got 119 plus
a few more quid for the probes.
Some of the other instruments will do much more inc EGTs, chts, water temp,
oil temp, fuel flow and pressures etc.
If you are looking for glass cockpits or instruments you should check them
out at www.airzone.co.uk
I have no connection other than a satisfied customer.
Regards
Kevin
PS tell them your a Europa owner and ask for a discount as I know from a
conversation with them today that they are keen to promote there products to
Europa owners.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
I just spoke with Dan at AeroVisions. The information on their landing lights
can be found at http://www.aerovisions.com/HID/hid_products.html. It gives
all the info needed. But instead of trying to calculate current draw (V x A =
W), the 28V kits draw about 1.5 to 2 amps. The 14V kits draw 3 to 3.5 amps.
The lower range tends to be the load when the alternator is up to full speed
and the higher level is what they tend to draw at the battery voltage.
I inquired about the heat produced in an enclosed space. He said that it's
about half of what an incandescent would create in the same space. He quoted
their test measurements to be around 150'F on the lamp housing after an hour
running.
He also mentioned that the rectangular reflectors provide good illumination
as a landing light, but for the best performance, a round reflector will
always provide the best results. And the larger the reflector the better
again.
Mike Duane, A207, Redding, California
(Started on the first wing, but now Alodining the metal stuff while waiting
for the humidity to come down some)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Preparation |
| From: | kpav <kpav(at)uia.net> |
I'll keep that in mind for the trip to Minden!
kp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
> I am confused by your email. When you say "It's been
> very handy for jobs other than the Europa" are you
> saying that it has NOT been very useful for the
> Europa??
On the Europa, not really! It has been handy in setting A/C level,
where you're remote from the tool while shimming something up - listen
for the beep, but hardly a big time saver. I will still admit to
having many other electronic gadgets at maybe $25 per moderately
worthwhile use. :-)
> Also, are you saying that the 0.14 deg difference is
> too much, or that it is too small to worry about??
I don't really know, but practically -- in equalizing wing incidence,
the book says +/- .05, but .05 is an error at the wing leading edge
equal to less than 4 sheets of copier paper. It will be no more
accurate than what is ultimately being referenced, the mean chord line
at the root, and further assumes equal twist in the wings further out,
and exactly equal flap rigging.
> The SmartTool claims an accuracy of 0.1 deg. It would
> seem that the Zircon is better.
What only counts here is at what angle an electronic level reliably
flips from 0 to .1 deg, or first hash mark on the Zircon, .07 deg. for
both maybe? The difference then with a bubble level is that it takes
a sharp eye to see less than .1 degree but possible.
Best,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Preparation |
| From: | Dale Hetrick <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
Kim,
Hope you can make it and the wx is acceptable.
Dale
> I'll keep that in mind for the trip to Minden!
> kp
>
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
> >Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any suggestions?
>Gary,
>We have a similar problem.
>It's our third winter now and our third battery.
>Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide
>enough power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
>This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current battery
>of the type they often use in race cars.
>The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
>Henk & Bart
Henk,
Happy New Year, you should be using modern RG hi current batteries anyway.
We found that 17AH was plenty big enough, others have used 12AH. The old
wet lead acid types are not really good enough and much too heavy.
Especially with there ability to leak. Wast3e of time, as you have
discovered. Ask the factory why they don't sell you a decent one.
Regards, hope to see you in 03, especially if we find the place in France!
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alexander P. de C. Kaarsberg" <kaarsber(at)terra.com.br> |
| Subject: | tTool Level vs low tech |
With the risk of being mocked I still like low-tech when possible....I
am setting the wing incidence angle at the moment and have found that I
get better than the required precision when I use a 1/4'' tube with
water in it attached to the leading and trailing edges- that gets me a
precision of less than the 0.05' called for in the book, 1mm up or down
and you see it easily.
This also avoids the errors that can accumulate from the various tools
the book calls for but admittedly may not be equally good for all
purposes, over shorter distances it may not be so precise so extensions
to the surfaces may be needed for a good reading.
The price of course, is around 50 cents plus water and then there is the
time needed for calculations, but there is no way to get a false reading
unless I allow air bubbles to get trapped in the tube....
Happy new year to all,
Alex, trigear 529
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: SmartTool Level vs Zircon VideoLevel |
>Andrew Sarangan wrote:
> > Also, are you saying that the 0.14 deg difference is
> > too much, or that it is too small to worry about??
>
>I don't really know, but practically -- in equalizing wing incidence,
>the book says +/- .05, but .05 is an error at the wing leading edge
>equal to less than 4 sheets of copier paper. It will be no more
>accurate than what is ultimately being referenced, the mean chord line
>at the root, and further assumes equal twist in the wings further out,
>and exactly equal flap rigging.
In fact it's further out that makes all the difference. An error at the
wing root will have little effect on roll, if incidence is not correct at
the tip of the flap that will have a big effect on residual roll. As will
flap setting of course. I always check the first wing at its root, then set
the second wing up to match the first at 70% span.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
More pictures of a Digitrak installation, this time from Kevin Klinefelter. See
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Mods/digitrak2.htm
New readers start at http://www.crix.org.uk
[ Writing this on New Year's Eve, my ISP is a bit busy and slow (as many people
are still off work). US readers may find access more satisfactory if they try
during their evening. ]
John Cliff
Europa Forum minder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
I've finally made some significant progress with the Members-Only section of
the Europa Club Web Site. It now includes:
1) The Club Hints and Tips booklet
2) A cut-down (for privacy and data protection) Club membership list
3) The Factory Combined Builders' Manual
4) The Factory 912/912S Engine Installation Manual
5) The Factory 914 Engine Installation Manual
6) The Factory Newsletters 1 through 36
Back-issues of the Europa Flyer (Club Newsletter) in PDF format are in
production and will be added when they are ready.
I've also updated various details elsewhere - but haven't managed to
complete quite all of my backlog, so apologies to those people who've sent
me requests for a link, or an update to some information that has not yet
been included. It will be soon.
Now the bad news...
When I was applying the updates I got a bit trigger happy and over-wrote one
file too many - the one with the list of Club Members who have been granted
access to the Members-Only section. Rowland looks after the master for that
file as part of his Membership Secretary work for the Club - the version I
overwrite it with was my original blank one. I'm afraid this means that
access to the new pages will only be available once Rowland has been able to
re-upload his updated version. Please accept my profound apologies for the
inconvenience.
I'm still looking for good material for the site to make it the best place
on the Internet for Europa information - so if you know of any good sites to
link to, or have any other useful information, please let me know.
Thanks and regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge and - A lucky escape... and insurance premiums |
The motor-glider was an IS 28, and it was tied down facing into the
(Shobdon) prevailing wind - ie, facing west. The actual direction of the
gust which carried it from its tie-down position into my hangar doors was
West-South-West.
Perhaps I should have added a postscript about the lady in the car. She was
being followed by another car, whose driver saw it all happen. He sent his
young son (7/8 years old) under the tree to see if the driver was alive -
and the son then stayed talking to the lady until the emergency services
arrived, having been summoned by father on his mobile. As it turned out, she
was not badly injured, and was only in hospital for a few days. The son got
a great write-up in the local press.
Finally - for 2002, anyway - I put out a message about insurance premium
increase some weeks ago. I have just received my renewal request - an
increase from 1571 to 1925, both exclusive of Premium Tax, and both for a
hull value of 45K. This is an increase of 22.5% - do any UK owners have
any comments about that?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <Runnymede73(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: OAT gauge and - A lucky escape...
> sorry to hear the bad news David
> can you say if the motor glider (G109B ?) was parked tail to wind ?
> rgds
> HNY
> safe flying
> Bill D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Sweeting <Paul.Sweeting(at)ntl.com> |
| Subject: | Owner-build aircraft survey results |
Thought it would be prudent to post the results that have been returned from
the University survey we were requested to fill by the pfa a few weeks ago
for those that have not viewed them..
Cheers Paul -- xs558
Owner-build aircraft survey - November, December 2002
Our electronic survey was sent to about 5,000 British pilots. In all, we
were absolutely delighted by the level of response. Over 1 in 10 people
filled in the survey, which is very high for a survey of this sort.
In all there were 34 questions, covering personal details, aircraft
ownership, flying experience and preferences for aircraft attributes. What
follows is a one-page summary of the results:
Almost all respondents were male. 90% were between 35 and 65, with 32% in
the range 46-55. Of those who answered, 64% earned 60,000 or less per year,
8% earned more than 100,000 per year. 38% of those surveyed have whole
ownership of an aircraft, whereas 29% own a part share, and another 5% gain
part ownership through a flying club. A further 28% do not own an aircraft.
Respondents were asked, what type of flying they prefer. The two most common
responses were touring and local flying, which together account for 85% of
all responses (25% and 60% respectively.) When it comes to time in the air,
24% had 100 hours or fewer, 45% had flown 101-500 hours, and 31% more than
500 hours.
Pilots who like to tour tend to earn more money than the average, with the
largest proportion (43%) earning between 35,000 and 60,000. Over 15% earn
more than 100,000. Moreover, these pilots tend to be more experienced. 41%
have more than 500 hours of flying. They also tend to be more interested in
an aircraft with a long range, though they rated this with a lower
importance than speed.
Pilots who prefer to stay close to home, tend not to earn as much. The
largest proportion (35%) earn between 25,000 and 35,000, and just 6% more
than 100,000. They seem slightly less experienced than pilots who are into
touring, with only 22% having more than 500 flying hours. Just 20% of these
pilots are qualified to fly at night.
Pilot preferences on the most important qualities of an owner-built plane
were explored. The results suggest that speed, ease of construction and
level of builder support are the most important qualities for a kit-plane.
Certified aircraft pilots rate similar aspects slightly higher than
owner-build aircraft pilots.
35% of respondents indicated that "the satisfaction of flying my own
creation" was the central reason for buying an owner-built plane. It seems
that a significant number of pilots choose owner-built planes in order to
obtain features that certified aircraft simply don't provide. 25% cited
"features not available in the certified market". Only 16% cited lower cost
as their reason for choosing an owner-build over a certified aircraft.
Of all respondents who had owned an owner-built plane, 50% had taken over
1,000 hours to complete the build. Over 25% had taken over 2000 hours.
Approximately 1 in 6 of the respondents of all types said that they intended
to buy in the next 12 months, and an additional 40-50% of in the next five
years.
Again, thank you very much indeed for your support. Based on the
enthusiasm you've demonstrated, the consistent growth in recreational flying
in the UK is no surprise.
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT gauge sensor |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Dave,
If you are using the XS cowl, put it in that area where the 914
gets its air. That NACA duct can lead to a large area. I used the 914
cowl isolating adapter that is put there. I put mine against the fire
wall using the mounting bolts that mount that piece of metal to the fire
wall. I had it protrude away from the fire wall to get it into the air
stream. I also used that area to get air for the engine with a duct up to
the intake plenum. I also put the air filter in that area. Kills three
birds with one opening. That way the wiring just goes upward into the
engine bay and on to the read out. I'm using the EIS system so it works
very nicely.. No disconnecting necessary. It is isolated from everything
ie radiant heat as well as any direct heating. Putting it under the
belly exposes it to heat exiting the engine bay and also dirt and other
things that will coat it and ruin its accuracy. By the way I'm flying
and it works great. I can e-mail you a pix of the area to give you an
idea on how I put it together. (28 hours and climbing)
Jim Nelson
N15JN
( pix on the way)
writes:
> Does anyone have a view about the most appropriate location for an
> OAT gauge sensor?
>
> There is a need to avoid - engine bay heat; exhaust heat; and wind
> chill.
>
> Many thanks, and a Happy New Year with lots of good flying to you
> all.
>
> David
>
> G-BZAM, UK 265
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NSI Cap 140 Gauge |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Stu,
I have one and I did bench testing (wiring ) and checked it out.
Had to send my readout back to NSI to have it updated as I had a very
early unit. They did it and got it right back. Do you have the manuals
for the prop and controller? There are two of them. You should have
them as they go to good lengths to explain how it is to be wired. I also
had to replace my ring unit. My orig one had the studs broke off on one
ring and I wanted it to be complete. I am running the ground adj. unit
until I get familial with the plane. After about 40 to 50 hours, I'll
put the electric prop on and fly it that way .
Jim Nelson
N15JN
writes:
> I have the complete prop, slip ring and gauge setup, however it is
> not
> working as advertised. It did at one point. I am searching for bench
> test
> procedures for verifying the prop signal output and for generating
> know
> signal to the gauge input.
>
> Stu Skinner Jr.
>
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builders log - accepted practices? |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Andrew,
I took my manual with me and I also had notes of dates when each
main part was done. I also took many pix of each thing I did and brought
the pix album with me. I was ready for most any question but he was very
nice and after a few questions he say I knew what I was doing and did the
paper work on my repairman certificate. Had to make an appointment to see
them as they are very security minded. Be there on time or better a bit
early to relax.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
writes:
> My builders log so far has simply been margin notes and dates
> scribbled into theEuropa builders manual. I attach a few pictures
> now and then. It is nothing like theformal logbook I keep in my lab
> at work.Since the builders manual is very well written, and since I
> am following the manualalmost exactly, I see little point in copying
> all of that information into a separate notebook. My question is, is
> this going to be acceptable to the FAA? Anyone haveexperience with
> this?
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mono Wheel Fairing available!! |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
KP,
How about some pix of your unit??? I would like to see what it
looks like. Made one myself and haven't put it on but will in the near
future.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
> Hello Nigel!
> I am shipping the first sets of the wheel fairing system this week.
> Although
> there has been no official Europa or PFA approval, I believe the
> system to
> be rugged, simple, efficient, and safe. I have been using the
> fairing for
> about 300 hours in all wx and field conditions with no problems.
> I've not
> noticed any problems with aerodynamic turbulence (in fact, this
> corrects
> turbulence at the tire anyway) or control at any airspeed, up to
> Vne
> Perhaps I should send a system to the UK for evaluation?!!
> Let me know how to do this and to whom to send it.
> kp
>
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I'm about to put my fuel drains in my monowheel, as I see it I have three
choices.
1) Right next to the inspection hatches
Good: One sample gives you what's in the tank.
Bad: Lying in the mud to get sample
2) In the back with the gascolator
Bad: Long hose runs to sample the tanks. 4 or 5 samples to see what's in the
tank and not in the lines.
3) Under the seat in the outboard pan Forward as possible. (Section opposite
the fuel filters)
Good: Easy to get to with the wings rigged. No lying in the mud. Shorter fuel
line run approx. 18"
Bad: More fuel under my butt. Drains slightly higher than tank bottom. The
head of fuel and the 1/4" tube to the back of the tank should take care of
that.
I'm leaning toward #3 but I've never seen anyone do it. ( usually a bad sign
)
Comments?
Happy New Year,
SteveD.Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 13:41:35 GMT
Subject: Majordomo results: archive-get-immediate forum 200301
From: majordomo-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
>>>> archive-get-immediate forum 200301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
Mine are going along with the gascolator positioned under the port baggage
bay access panel. I'll just have one snap shut access panel for all three.
Any leeks or dripping if any will be at one spot. I have configured the
inside of the door to have small dams inside to direct any leakage to drain
overboard rather than rolling around in the back of the fuselage.
As for long runs of hose to the drains. You can always do the politically
incorrect thing and hold the taps open for a second or two before you take
your sample.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
> Date: 12/31/02 10:37:33 AM
> Subject: Fuel Drains
>
> I'm about to put my fuel drains in my monowheel, as I see it I have three
> choices.
>
> 1) Right next to the inspection hatches
> Good: One sample gives you what's in the tank.
> Bad: Lying in the mud to get sample
>
> 2) In the back with the gascolator
> Bad: Long hose runs to sample the tanks. 4 or 5 samples to see what's in
the
> tank and not in the lines.
>
> 3) Under the seat in the outboard pan Forward as possible. (Section
opposite
> the fuel filters)
> Good: Easy to get to with the wings rigged. No lying in the mud. Shorter
fuel
> line run approx. 18"
> Bad: More fuel under my butt. Drains slightly higher than tank bottom.
The
> head of fuel and the 1/4" tube to the back of the tank should take care
of
> that.
>
> I'm leaning toward #3 but I've never seen anyone do it. ( usually a bad
sign
> )
>
> Comments?
> Happy New Year,
> SteveD.
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | protection prior to painting |
Hi All,
I am at the stage where I can actually pronounce a wing, flap and aileron ready
for its final coat of paint. I was going to cover them with plastic and store
it away until I was ready to send them out for painting but I have been advised
that the plastic will outgas and lay a deposit on the surface and cause a
problem with paint adhesion. Any suggestions from others on what is the best
thing to do in terms of protection and storage ?
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dust protection prior to painting |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
Paul Hi!
> I am at the stage where I can actually pronounce a wing, flap and
> aileron ready for its final coat of paint. I was going to cover them
> with plastic and store it away until I was ready to send them out for
> painting but I have been advised that the plastic will outgas and lay
> a deposit on the surface and cause a problem with paint adhesion. Any
> suggestions from others on what is the best thing to do in terms of
> protection and storage ?
>
My experience is only pertitent directly if you have used Polyfiber
>Finishing Products.
Having had problems a while back when the control surfaces were
recalled by Tony Young at Aircraft Coverings, Henstridge. They had been
filled with Superfil and then primed and separately UV protected. The
recall was due to flaking etc. due to 'osmosis'. S0....
I was advised when they had been reworked with new combined UV Primer
to ensure they were stored in conditions that broadly met the following:
Temperature: 60F (15C)
Humidity: at 60% or less
As the West of England weather like Manchester or Derbyshire tends to
enjoy moisture in the form of plentiful rainfall and I've designed the
Workshop to always maintain these conditions at worst.
My Wings and Fuselage are still in near to final Primer coat and have
been that way for several months awaiting final painting in Feb/March.
The advantage of leaving in Primer is that the inevitable 'dings' that
will take place whilst 'set up' and early conditions of rigging and
adjustment take place can be easily fixed as I have found several
times. Unfortunately or Fortunately all my Flying Surfaces are
finished. I say unfortunate as both Rudder and Tail-plane have some
surface damage due to my clumsiness. All very fixable but it does spoil
your day a little when it happens. Bit like the first 'ding' on a new
Car, especially if done by Wife, Girlfriend or even worse, Kids!
If your Workshop conditions are transient. i.e. 'conditioned' only when
you want to work in there then it might be worth buying a big bunch of
Flowers and asking for permission to store inside the House somewhere.
The Bedroom would be too distressing.......
In my house the ambient temperature and humidity can be likened to a
beach in early Florida sun. 70+ at all times so conditions are ideal!
Not sure I've made much sense but it is 8.30am GMT on the first morning
of 2003!
Happy New Year to all! Maybe this is the year G-FIZY at last flies!!
Gerry Holland
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
Starting to run out of bits to put on the plane, but still have a couple of
NACA vents. Can't find any referance to them in the build manual. Can any
one tell me where in the manual it tells you what to do with them?
Regards and Happy New year to all
Paul Stewart #432
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
Paul, As I remember it in my manual, no 402, there was no mention of the
NACA vents. I contacted the company who sent me a seperate sheet. Happy New
Year, David
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Stewart <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net>
Subject: NACA vents
> Starting to run out of bits to put on the plane, but still have a couple
of
> NACA vents. Can't find any referance to them in the build manual. Can any
> one tell me where in the manual it tells you what to do with them?
>
> Regards and Happy New year to all
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
Paul,
It Doesn't! I had the same problem and asked Neville. I think he said to
mount them about 4 inches forward of the screen and with centreline 3/4in.
above the 'waistline'. If you look at pictures, people seem to have mounted
them in various locations. I'm also still contemplating where to cut the
holes.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: NACA vents
Starting to run out of bits to put on the plane, but still have a couple of
NACA vents. Can't find any referance to them in the build manual. Can any
one tell me where in the manual it tells you what to do with them?
Regards and Happy New year to all
Paul Stewart #432
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk |
Quoting Paul Stewart :
> Starting to run out of bits to put on the plane, but still have a couple of
> NACA vents. Can't find any referance to them in the build manual. Can any
> one tell me where in the manual it tells you what to do with them?
>
> Regards and Happy New year to all
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
>
Hi! Paul
Happy New Year to you and when you get there safe flying too.
I would expect that the NACA vents if they are a pair should be cold air
intakes for cockpit cooling , mostly they are set in the sides of the a/c near
your knee and the passengers knee, except your knee can get quite cold!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI
----------------------------------------------
This mail sent through http://www.ukonline.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Web Site updates |
>access to the new pages will only be available once Rowland has been able to
>re-upload his updated version
Jeremy et al - my first duty of 2003 (around 01:00) was to upload the
latest permissions files, so all of you who already applied should
now have access. Apologies for not having responded to Jeremy's
message quicker!
All the best for 2003 - still hoping that I'll be able to celebrate
the Wright brothers f/f centenary at the end of the year with one of
my own!
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Web Site updates |
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremyda(at)microsoft.com> |
Thanks, Rowland - and apologies again to all for the inconvenience.
Good luck to all those hoping to fly this year, to those already flying,
and swift progress for those still some way away!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Carson
Subject: Re: Web Site updates
>access to the new pages will only be available once Rowland has been
able to
>re-upload his updated version
Jeremy et al - my first duty of 2003 (around 01:00) was to upload the
latest permissions files, so all of you who already applied should
now have access. Apologies for not having responded to Jeremy's
message quicker!
All the best for 2003 - still hoping that I'll be able to celebrate
the Wright brothers f/f centenary at the end of the year with one of
my own!
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
Hi Paul,
The best place for your NACA vents is the waste bin.
I spent a lot of time installing mine, but after operating them
a few times the threads broke, rendering them completely useless.
These threads are just cheap hollow plastic instead of solid
nylon, and I haven't figured out a way yet of repairing them yet.
I will have to leave them completely open or closed before each
flight. At the moment they are taped closed.
You will also find that if your aircraft is parked in a heavy
rainstorm, the vents will let in water, even in the closed position,
and you will have a nice puddle in each footwell.
Cheers, Karl Heindl # 392
From: "Paul Stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net>
>Subject: NACA vents
>Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 10:42:40 -0000
>
>Starting to run out of bits to put on the plane, but still have a couple of
>NACA vents. Can't find any referance to them in the build manual. Can any
>one tell me where in the manual it tells you what to do with them?
>
>Regards and Happy New year to all
>
>Paul Stewart #432
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/1/03 11:05:52 AM, kheindl(at)msn.com writes:
> The best place for your NACA vents is the waste bin.
>
If your looking for something else to use, I saw these at S~n~F
ACS Ultimate ventilator P/N 08-00052: $98.75
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Sun-N-Fun/DSCN0966-tb.html
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Sun-N-Fun/DSCN0969-tb.html
I don't know who's plane it was but, thanks.
SteveD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Dust protection prior to painting |
Not sure I've made much sense but it is 8.30am GMT on the first morning of
2003!
>Happy New Year to all! Maybe this is the year G-FIZY at last flies!!
>
>Gerry Holland
Thank you Gerry, reciprocal to you too. (180s are much needed in the UK
weather) {{:-)
Can I have a ride?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnh(at)ddsc.demon.co.uk> |
>> The best place for your NACA vents is the waste bin.
>>
I modified the Ventilation set up using parts from Glastar Accessories
provider - Airlink Technologies.
I will forward pictures to John for addition to Picture Gallery if
anyone is interested.
I've used Aluminium Eye Ball vents and positioned them so they are
above knee and thigh positions when in normal seated position.
Happy New Year to Everyone!
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
Gerry Holland
gholland@gemini-resourcing.com
+44 7808 402404
Gemini Resourcing Limited
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP - UK
+44 1249 700630
+44 1249 700631 (Fax)
Website - http://www.gemini-resourcing.com
DISCLAIMER: This message may contain privileged and confidential
information.
If you think for any reason this message has been addressed in error
you must
not copy or disseminate it and we would ask you to notify us
immediately by
return email to info@gemini-resourcing.com. Internet emails are not
necessarily
secure. Gemini Resourcing Limited is registered in England with its
address at:
Hartham Park, Corsham, Wilts. SN13 0RP, England.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | ron hinge flange BID size |
I've had a look in the archives and the H&T and can't find anyone
else mentioning this particular problem, so maybe I am being stupid
somehow! (No doubt someone will tell me if that is the case ....)
I am shortly about to do the aileron hinge flange layups. For each
aileron, my manual calls for 2 pieces of of BID (cut at 45 degrees as
usual) "full length" by 100m wide. The full length of my aileron is
about 1540mm, but the longest piece of BID 100mm wide I can cut from
a 1-metre width at 45 degress is about 1315mm.
Do I cut it somewhat wider than 100mm and stretch until it is the
right length (hoping it hasn't got too narrow by then)?
Do I make it in 2 pieces, with a small (what length?) overlap overlap
at the joint?
I'm inclined to cut pieces 900 long and 640 + overlap (say 670 for a
30mm overlap, which feels good to me). The longer pieces would be
used at opposite ends on the first and last layers, so that the
joints are not on top of each other but are not so far off-centre as
to interfere with the hinge area and cause extra thickness there.
Any thoughts would be welcome - including the official factory line
on this! I have the second aileron to fettle up ready for the layup,
so hope to have answers by the time I've got that ready.
regards
Rowland
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
Cut lengths as needed to get your total length. I dont't believe there
ever was any assumption of having to use continuous lengths of glass in
any installation. In many cases it is easier to get better layups by
using shorter layups in complicated areas. Though I have strayed away from
stretching to a great extent to make things fit. At what point does bid
start acting like uni when you start stretching it? I certaintly wouldn't
stretch it more than 15%. An inch of overlap in this situation should be
more than enough. What is most important is to get good adhesion with no
voids along the entire surface. Which is much easier to do if you are not
stuffing a real long piece of sloppy fiberglass in a long slot. These
are just my observations from working with the stuff.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
> Date: 1/1/03 1:00:12 PM
> Subject: aileron hinge flange BID size
>
> I've had a look in the archives and the H&T and can't find anyone
> else mentioning this particular problem, so maybe I am being stupid
> somehow! (No doubt someone will tell me if that is the case ....)
>
> I am shortly about to do the aileron hinge flange layups. For each
> aileron, my manual calls for 2 pieces of of BID (cut at 45 degrees as
> usual) "full length" by 100m wide. The full length of my aileron is
> about 1540mm, but the longest piece of BID 100mm wide I can cut from
> a 1-metre width at 45 degress is about 1315mm.
>
> Do I cut it somewhat wider than 100mm and stretch until it is the
> right length (hoping it hasn't got too narrow by then)?
>
> Do I make it in 2 pieces, with a small (what length?) overlap overlap
> at the joint?
>
> I'm inclined to cut pieces 900 long and 640 + overlap (say 670 for a
> 30mm overlap, which feels good to me). The longer pieces would be
> used at opposite ends on the first and last layers, so that the
> joints are not on top of each other but are not so far off-centre as
> to interfere with the hinge area and cause extra thickness there.
>
> Any thoughts would be welcome - including the official factory line
> on this! I have the second aileron to fettle up ready for the layup,
> so hope to have answers by the time I've got that ready.
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
> | Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
> | ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
Rowland
Yes , You will have to overlap the BID strips. An one inch overlap will be
OK.
Keeping the BID from stretching out of shape is the hardest parent.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland & Wilma Carson" <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: aileron hinge flange BID size
> I've had a look in the archives and the H&T and can't find anyone
> else mentioning this particular problem, so maybe I am being stupid
> somehow! (No doubt someone will tell me if that is the case ....)
>
> I am shortly about to do the aileron hinge flange layups. For each
> aileron, my manual calls for 2 pieces of of BID (cut at 45 degrees as
> usual) "full length" by 100m wide. The full length of my aileron is
> about 1540mm, but the longest piece of BID 100mm wide I can cut from
> a 1-metre width at 45 degress is about 1315mm.
>
> Do I cut it somewhat wider than 100mm and stretch until it is the
> right length (hoping it hasn't got too narrow by then)?
>
> Do I make it in 2 pieces, with a small (what length?) overlap overlap
> at the joint?
>
> I'm inclined to cut pieces 900 long and 640 + overlap (say 670 for a
> 30mm overlap, which feels good to me). The longer pieces would be
> used at opposite ends on the first and last layers, so that the
> joints are not on top of each other but are not so far off-centre as
> to interfere with the hinge area and cause extra thickness there.
>
> Any thoughts would be welcome - including the official factory line
> on this! I have the second aileron to fettle up ready for the layup,
> so hope to have answers by the time I've got that ready.
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
> | Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
> | ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914 |
If you look after the battery it should last years. Mine is just coming up
to four years old. I haven't flown for weeks (due to bad weather) so I am
now reminded it might be a good idea to top up charge my battery which I'll
try and do today.
Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henk Roelofs" <henk(at)loginet.nl>
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
> >Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any
suggestions?
>
> Gary,
> We have a similar problem.
> It's our third winter now and our third battery.
> Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide
enough
> power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
> This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current battery
> of the type they often use in race cars.
> The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
> Until next winter I am afraid.
> Regards,
> Henk & Bart
> Europa #264
________________________________________________________________________________
I (foolishly) installed the drains exactly as instructed by Europa for the
factory fuel drain kit, which places them directly under the access ports in
the baggage bay floor, and right where the battery is supposed to be located
on the port side!
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of ScramIt(at)aol.com
Subject: Fuel Drains
I'm about to put my fuel drains in my monowheel, as I see it I have three
choices.
1) Right next to the inspection hatches
Good: One sample gives you what's in the tank.
Bad: Lying in the mud to get sample
2) In the back with the gascolator
Bad: Long hose runs to sample the tanks. 4 or 5 samples to see what's in the
tank and not in the lines.
3) Under the seat in the outboard pan Forward as possible. (Section opposite
the fuel filters)
Good: Easy to get to with the wings rigged. No lying in the mud. Shorter
fuel
line run approx. 18"
Bad: More fuel under my butt. Drains slightly higher than tank bottom. The
head of fuel and the 1/4" tube to the back of the tank should take care of
that.
I'm leaning toward #3 but I've never seen anyone do it. ( usually a bad sign
)
Comments?
Happy New Year,
SteveD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
I have just returned to filling & sanding my flying surfaces on my Xs Tri.
I have used the factory supplied 'expancell' & I am finding that whenever I
sand the filler back to a fine layer then use my airline or a brush to
remove the dust, a number of small 'craters' appear as if there were bubbles
trapped beneath the filler which I am exposing. I have filled & sanded some
of my surfaces three times now and the craters don't seem to be getting any
less.
I have also tried some superfil on some surfaces but am not sure that this
makes the job any better.
Any suggestions?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
>Rowland
>Yes , You will have to overlap the BID strips. An one inch overlap will be
>OK.
>
>Keeping the BID from stretching out of shape is the hardest parent.
>Cliff Shaw
The easy way is to wet out the BID on the bench. I use stuff we call cling
film, I think you say Saran Wrap?
Tape it to the bench, wet out the glass strips then cut the film with a
Stanley nife and carry it to the job on the film and push it in place, then
carefully peel off the film. Finally carefully stipple in with a brush.
That way the 45 BD doesn't distort and it isn't too wet either.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <john(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
Gerry Holland has sent some pictures of his NACA air vent installation (see
yesterday's posting). See
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Mods/vents.htm
New readers start at http://www.crix.org.uk
John Cliff
Europa Forum minder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | ron hinge flange |
Roland, Having posted a suggestion to you, I went back to the manual and realise
that the two layers of bid are meant to be put on seperately with the hinge
reinforcements in between, (no doubt in the interests of smooth edges to the reinforced
areas). You could still use the technique of filling in the corners
but on reflection there is plenty of material in the 100mm strip and I am sure
it would not matter a bit if you simply stretched it to fit without extra corners.
Incidentally one thing to beware of is getting too much material (by which
I mean resin and micro in the bottom of the 'V' where the hinge will go) I
found myself having to grind out some of the material in order to get the hinge
to sit properly, which of course weakens the strengthening, and if I was doing
it again I would clamp a clingfilm covered hinge in place while the lay up
dried. Cheers, David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | ite members-only area |
Just to clarify - I get requests for access to the members-only area
of the website most days, but I only update the host file about once
a week. Once I receive your e-mail request, I always reply to confirm
receipt. If, a week after receiving that confirmation, you find that
you cannot gain access, please let me know.
And when sending passwords, remember that I will be copying and
pasting the password/username string complete, so it's preferable to
put it on a line all by itself, and definitely not inline at the end
of a sentence. The period character ("full stop") can occur anywhere
within the encrpyted password, so I have to assume that a trialing
period is part of the password, not punctuation marking the end of a
sentence.
Do read the instructions - thanks!
regards
Rowland
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | erichdtrombley(at)juno.com |
Hello all,
Can anyone out there tell me what the location of the CG is relative to the joggle
of the cowling? I believe this is the new location that measurements are
taken from.
Regards,
Erich Trombley
A028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Richard,
I put mine behind the vertical post of the windscreen. Sit in
the a/c and have the outlet behind your knee rather than in front of your
knee. I call the forward mounted units - knee coolers as they don't cool
much. Does not get to your face.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | i current batteries |
Hi Graham,
please, could you be so kind and send me one or two concrete examples of
such hi current battery (manufacturer and type number)?
Thanks very much
Stanislav, #438
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
>
> > >Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any
suggestions?
> >Gary,
> >We have a similar problem.
> >It's our third winter now and our third battery.
> >Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide
> >enough power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
> >This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current battery
> >of the type they often use in race cars.
> >The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
> >Henk & Bart
>
> Henk,
> Happy New Year, you should be using modern RG hi current batteries anyway.
> We found that 17AH was plenty big enough, others have used 12AH. The old
> wet lead acid types are not really good enough and much too heavy.
> Especially with there ability to leak. Wast3e of time, as you have
> discovered. Ask the factory why they don't sell you a decent one.
> Regards, hope to see you in 03, especially if we find the place in France!
> Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pa XS tri gear for Microsoft Flight Sim 2002 |
FS2002 Props Page 33
Hello group,
I just ran across the above web link to a Europa XS aircraft model for the
flight sim. I have not tried it. If anyone out there could come up with a
mono gear Europa and make it directionally unstable on the ground, it would
be a wonderful thing.
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
Rowland, Your 1 metre roll should have an edge length , cut at 45 degrees
of root 2 which is 1414mm. A `100mm strip will be an extra141.4 mm long, ie
1555mm. It will of course have pointed ends, but I would use the strip as it
comes and simply butt joint triangles into the ends, with the second layer
laid the other way up so that the seams do not coincide. Preparing the layup
on the bench, with cling film both sides of the wetted cloth makes it more
manageable, uncovering a small section at a time to lay it into flange
groove. Happy New Year, David
----- Original Message -----
From: Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: aileron hinge flange BID size
> I've had a look in the archives and the H&T and can't find anyone
> else mentioning this particular problem, so maybe I am being stupid
> somehow! (No doubt someone will tell me if that is the case ....)
>
> I am shortly about to do the aileron hinge flange layups. For each
> aileron, my manual calls for 2 pieces of of BID (cut at 45 degrees as
> usual) "full length" by 100m wide. The full length of my aileron is
> about 1540mm, but the longest piece of BID 100mm wide I can cut from
> a 1-metre width at 45 degress is about 1315mm.
>
> Do I cut it somewhat wider than 100mm and stretch until it is the
> right length (hoping it hasn't got too narrow by then)?
>
> Do I make it in 2 pieces, with a small (what length?) overlap overlap
> at the joint?
>
> I'm inclined to cut pieces 900 long and 640 + overlap (say 670 for a
> 30mm overlap, which feels good to me). The longer pieces would be
> used at opposite ends on the first and last layers, so that the
> joints are not on top of each other but are not so far off-centre as
> to interfere with the hinge area and cause extra thickness there.
>
> Any thoughts would be welcome - including the official factory line
> on this! I have the second aileron to fettle up ready for the layup,
> so hope to have answers by the time I've got that ready.
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
> | Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
> | ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ery in Front or Back? |
That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel, baggage,
maybe its better up front.
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David.Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
Rob,
I put mine in the factory location; this is no problem, because the battery
that I have installed fits between the drain and the outer plywood support.
And there is no problem about lying in the mud as someone suggested - you
can reach the drains from a standing position.
David
G-BZAM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <robh@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Drains
> I (foolishly) installed the drains exactly as instructed by Europa for the
> factory fuel drain kit, which places them directly under the access ports
in
> the baggage bay floor, and right where the battery is supposed to be
located
> on the port side!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>I (foolishly) installed the drains exactly as instructed by Europa for the
>factory fuel drain kit, which places them directly under the access ports in
>the baggage bay floor, and right where the battery is supposed to be located
>on the port side!
>Rob Housman
I would use a light RG battery, 17AH and put it on top of the footwell.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brodie" <paulbrodie(at)btclick.com> |
| Subject: | Re: website members-only area |
Roland,
May I have a members only password.
Many thanks and Happy New Year.
Paul Brodie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland & Wilma Carson" <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: website members-only area
> Just to clarify - I get requests for access to the members-only area
> of the website most days, but I only update the host file about once
> a week. Once I receive your e-mail request, I always reply to confirm
> receipt. If, a week after receiving that confirmation, you find that
> you cannot gain access, please let me know.
>
> And when sending passwords, remember that I will be copying and
> pasting the password/username string complete, so it's preferable to
> put it on a line all by itself, and definitely not inline at the end
> of a sentence. The period character ("full stop") can occur anywhere
> within the encrpyted password, so I have to assume that a trialing
> period is part of the password, not punctuation marking the end of a
> sentence.
>
> Do read the instructions - thanks!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
> | Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
> | ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: filling & sanding |
Hi Richard,
I changed over to Superfil after completing the fuselage and found it a bit
better to work with, but the biggest improvement came from applying some
gentle heat as I put the filler on. I also found applying some heat while
mixing seems to reduce the bubbles in the mix.
Paul
http://europa363.versadev.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: filling & sanding
> I have just returned to filling & sanding my flying surfaces on my Xs Tri.
>
> I have used the factory supplied 'expancell' & I am finding that whenever
I
> sand the filler back to a fine layer then use my airline or a brush to
> remove the dust, a number of small 'craters' appear as if there were
bubbles
> trapped beneath the filler which I am exposing. I have filled & sanded
some
> of my surfaces three times now and the craters don't seem to be getting
any
> less.
>
> I have also tried some superfil on some surfaces but am not sure that this
> makes the job any better.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron hinge flange |
I think it's fair to say that this layup was not far short of a comedy of
errors for me - but I now have 3 ailerons as a result... When people ask
what all the bits are in the lounge, I point out the 1 rudder, 2 flaps and 3
ailerons and so far all but one have just nodded sagely ;-)
I concur wholeheartedly with David's comment below about not overfilling the
vee. I slightly overdid this on one end of one aileron (fix: trim and round
the hinge edge ever so slightly - the Factory can advise how much is
permitted). The other aileron was too shallow for this, so I took the
recommended fix of grinding out the vee at the hinge points with an
acute-angled Permagrit cone and repairing. Unfortunately when I relaid I
used waxed mixing sticks to ensure the cloth stayed down in the vee - and
they stuck solid.
Given that an extra aileron was going to be useful for practicing building
my aileron trim, I took the easy option of doing a second starboard one
instead of trying to grind the sticks out without damaging the layups.
I found the strip of cloth could easily be stretched the small amount
required to do the full length in one go, but you do have to be careful or
it ends up rather narrow in places - the recommended width is only just wide
enough. If you want to go this route, I'd cut it an inch wider than stated
and position it so that any excess goes beyond the flange and can be cut off
in the usual manner.
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of david joyce
Subject: Aileron hinge flange
Roland, Having posted a suggestion to you, I went back to the manual and
realise that the two layers of bid are meant to be put on seperately with
the hinge reinforcements in between, (no doubt in the interests of smooth
edges to the reinforced areas). You could still use the technique of filling
in the corners but on reflection there is plenty of material in the 100mm
strip and I am sure it would not matter a bit if you simply stretched it to
fit without extra corners. Incidentally one thing to beware of is getting
too much material (by which I mean resin and micro in the bottom of the 'V'
where the hinge will go) I found myself having to grind out some of the
material in order to get the hinge to sit properly, which of course weakens
the strengthening, and if I was doing it again I would clamp a clingfilm
covered hinge in place while the lay up dried. Cheers, David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
I'm way off that stage yet, but my current thinking is to lay the cable and
put in an external power socket similar to Nigel Charles' (for trickle
charging, externally powered start, etc.). That way, if my CoG requires a
forward battery, it becomes the cable from the socket to the electrics. If a
rear battery is required, it becomes the battery cable.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of ScramIt(at)aol.com
Subject: Battery in Front or Back?
That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel, baggage,
maybe its better up front.
SteveD
A217
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: website members-only area |
A few people seem to be having problems requesting access to the
members-only area, so just a note to repeat/clarify the instructions sent
out a few weeks ago.
If you go to the Club web site at www.europaclub.org.uk you'll see the
Members Only section listed in the navigation bar on the left hand side.
Click on the '+' to expand the section, click on 'request access' and follow
the instructions offered.
I'm sure Rowland has plenty of work to do enabling access for people at this
initial stage - unfortunately there is no way we can automate it for him as
we need to confirm people are indeed members of the Club before granting
access, so could everyone please follow the instructions closely and avoid
keeping Rowland away from building G-ROWI as little as possible ;-)
Thanks and regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Paul Brodie
Subject: Re: website members-only area
Roland,
May I have a members only password.
Many thanks and Happy New Year.
Paul Brodie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland & Wilma Carson" <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: website members-only area
> Just to clarify - I get requests for access to the members-only area
> of the website most days, but I only update the host file about once
> a week. Once I receive your e-mail request, I always reply to confirm
> receipt. If, a week after receiving that confirmation, you find that
> you cannot gain access, please let me know.
>
> And when sending passwords, remember that I will be copying and
> pasting the password/username string complete, so it's preferable to
> put it on a line all by itself, and definitely not inline at the end
> of a sentence. The period character ("full stop") can occur anywhere
> within the encrpyted password, so I have to assume that a trialing
> period is part of the password, not punctuation marking the end of a
> sentence.
>
> Do read the instructions - thanks!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
>
> | Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
> | ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
>I am shortly about to do the aileron hinge flange layups. For each
>aileron, my manual calls for 2 pieces of of BID (cut at 45 degrees
>as usual) "full length" by 100m wide. The full length of my aileron
>is about 1540mm, but the longest piece of BID 100mm wide I can cut
>from a 1-metre width at 45 degress is about 1315mm.
I've just spoken to Neville at the factory about this and he says
he'd want to see a couple of inches overlap if the BID is applied in
2 pieces. The overlaps should be positioned clear of the hinge
reinforcements and offset so as not to lie on top of each other. His
preferred method, though, is to cut the BID rather wider than
specified, and stretch it gently to the length required (which will
of course make it narrower again). No doubt one could work out the
"prestretch" dimensions required to get exactly the right result, but
best to err on the side of too wide rather than too narrow, I think!
I'm posting this partly to check if the list server is still working,
as it's gone suspiciously quiet since 1st January.
regards
Rowland
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
01/03/2003 08:42:42 AM,
Serialize by Notes Client on Ira Rampil/UHMC(Release 5.0.10 |March 22,
2002) at
01/03/2003 08:42:42 AM,
S/MIME Sign failed at 01/03/2003 08:42:43 AM: The cryptographic key was
not
found,
Serialize by Router on nmta.cc.sunysb.edu/DoIT(Release 5.0.11 |July 24,
2002) at
01/03/2003 08:42:47 AM,
Greetings All!
Happy and prosperous New Year
Tailwinds too!
In mounting my engine recently down at FlightCrafters and now mentally
preparing (in New York)
to place the suggested NACA vent inlet over the airbox, I unleased a query
within my fevered brow.
When flying in rain, how do you keep the engine from drowning? (I know -
dont fly in the rain! ;-) )
TIA,
Ira N224XS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
In a message dated 1/3/03 8:22:23 AM, grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk writes:
> The easy way is to wet out the BID on the bench. I use stuff we call cling
> film, I think you say Saran Wrap?
>
I have picture of that very job on my site.
http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Tail%20Plane/Tail%20Plane.html
About half way down. Oh and buy the way use colored Saran wrap, helps keep
you from leaving it in the work.
SteveD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremyda(at)microsoft.com> |
Phew - no rework of my leading edges required then! Using the specified
width, I found it tricky to get the right degree of overlap on the
leading edge plus cloth reaching right up the flange, but it was just
do-able. If my vee had been any deeper it would have been impossible -
so my suggestion is to add an inch to the width (or did I already say
that?).
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Carson
Subject: Re: aileron hinge flange BID size
>I am shortly about to do the aileron hinge flange layups. For each
>aileron, my manual calls for 2 pieces of of BID (cut at 45 degrees
>as usual) "full length" by 100m wide. The full length of my aileron
>is about 1540mm, but the longest piece of BID 100mm wide I can cut
>from a 1-metre width at 45 degress is about 1315mm.
I've just spoken to Neville at the factory about this and he says
he'd want to see a couple of inches overlap if the BID is applied in
2 pieces. The overlaps should be positioned clear of the hinge
reinforcements and offset so as not to lie on top of each other. His
preferred method, though, is to cut the BID rather wider than
specified, and stretch it gently to the length required (which will
of course make it narrower again). No doubt one could work out the
"prestretch" dimensions required to get exactly the right result, but
best to err on the side of too wide rather than too narrow, I think!
I'm posting this partly to check if the list server is still working,
as it's gone suspiciously quiet since 1st January.
regards
Rowland
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl NACA Vent |
The manual advises drilling two 1/8th. inch holes at the lowest points of
the plenum chamber, just before the air enters the carb. I did query this
with the factory, wondering if unfiltered air /debris might be sucked in but
they said they haven't had a problem with this.
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Subject: Cowl NACA Vent
Greetings All!
Happy and prosperous New Year
Tailwinds too!
In mounting my engine recently down at FlightCrafters and now mentally
preparing (in New York)
to place the suggested NACA vent inlet over the airbox, I unleased a query
within my fevered brow.
When flying in rain, how do you keep the engine from drowning? (I know -
dont fly in the rain! ;-) )
TIA,
Ira
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Location of CG |
In a message dated 1/3/2003 5:24:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
erichdtrombley(at)juno.com writes:
>
> Can anyone out there tell me what the location of the CG is relative to the
> joggle of the cowling? I believe this is the new location that
> measurements are taken from.
>
>
I just did my CG calc and you go forward from that joggle for the datum
reference (something like 29 inches. (29.25 to be specific)That is where you
measure the arms from. This is done with the aircraft in the level attitude.
The main gear was supposed to be 45 to 46 inches, mine was 45.3 and the
tailwheel should be close to 208 inches, mine was 208 1/4". My CG with the
914 and airmaster prop ended up at 58.8 and for the first flight - me and the
yet to be purchased chute - will be 59.4. Allowable range is 58 to 62.5.
First flight range is listed as 59 to 61.
Taxi test went well yesterday, with the airplane "flying" off the outriggers
at 20 knots and above -- up to 27 knots. The stick is in the center, as far
as I can determine. First flight looms just over the horizon.
Keeping it straight,
Dave
A227
Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
<017301c2b32b$ef4901a0$05fea8c0@btopenworld.com>
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: website members-only area |
>May I have a members only password
Paul - as I said, please read the instructions - they are on the
website. If you can't find them, complain to webmeister Jeremy about
the navigation! I can send you a copy in the final resort .... but I
was trying to avoid giving myself that extra work.
>Happy New Year
And to you and all the other folk here.
regards
Rowland
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
In a message dated 1/3/2003 5:27:54 AM Pacific Standard Time, ScramIt(at)aol.com
writes:
> That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel, baggage,
> maybe its better up front.
>
Steve,
I just finished my CG check. I have a 914 engine and I have 2 batteries. I
installed them in the back -- long wings too. My CG is forward in the
envelope, but well inside. I ended up at 58.8 empty. If I remove a 20 pound
weight from there and install it at the firewall, the CG would be.......57.4.
That represents the shift of moving a 20 pound weight that far forward --
basically 1.4 inches. I have the airmaster prop also, which is a heavy weight
forward. You could compare the difference between the engine weights compared
to the battery shift and make your decision. Make sure you get this right,
because I can tell you that once you do this CG check, you feel pretty set in
concrete and hoping it will work out OK. For sure, the batt goes in the back
for a 914. For a 912 with airmaster???
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
Hi Steve,
The CG on our mono-wheel XS with 912S and Whirlwind prop came out about
right with a 25 aHr battery in back, with the factory long cable set. We used
the
larger battery because we intend motor-gliding at a later date, and would be
flying
with the engine off. We have done calculations for an AirMaster prop instead
of
the Whirlwind and find that our CG would still be good.
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
ScramIt(at)aol.com wrote:
> That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel, baggage,
> maybe its better up front.
>
> SteveD
> A217
> http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron hinge flange |
| From: | "David Glauser" <david.glauser(at)xpsystems.com> |
> I think it's fair to say that this layup was not far short of a comedy of
> errors for me - but I now have 3 ailerons as a result... When people ask
> what all the bits are in the lounge, I point out the 1 rudder, 2 flaps and 3
> ailerons and so far all but one have just nodded sagely ;-)
That's not bad at all - I made two rudders and four stabilators. Didn't like the
workmanship on the second set. Just for giggles, we decided to, um, "test to
destruction" a stabilator. Two 200-pound-plus guys jumping up and down on it
on a concrete floor didn't cause any lasting damage. Try that with a Cessna tail!
David
A071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lisbet og Gert Dalgaard <lgds(at)post6.tele.dk> |
| Subject: | Re: website members-only area |
Sorry, Jeremy, but absolutely nothing happens.
Regards Gert
-------------------------------------------------------
Gert Dalgaard Srensen
Stabelvej 9, Haarby
DK 8660 Skanderborg
Denmark
Europa builder No. 151
OY-GDS - Europa Classic/914
Phone.: +45 8695 0595
E mail: lgds(at)post6.tele.dk
http://home19.inet.tele.dk/dalgaard/oygds.jpeg
-------------------------------------------------------
jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com wrote:
If you go to the Club web site at www.europaclub.org.uk you'll see the
Members Only section listed in the navigation bar on the left hand side.
Click on the '+' to expand the section, cli.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy.P.Ward" <xtr120992(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | ed : Dave Simpson |
Dave,
In the UK this weekend, and will be up around Luton this weekend visiting Gavin
Lee, another NZ Europa Builder. Any chance of a quick visit to see your project?
Cheers,
Tim Ward
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton
Christchurch.
Ph. 0064 33515166
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy.P.Ward" <xtr120992(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: filling & sanding |
Richard,
Use a hairdrier to slightly heat up the filler as you apply it onto the surface.
Cheers, Tim
>
> From: "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com>
> Date: 2003/01/03 Fri PM 07:44:37 GMT+13:00
> Subject: filling & sanding
>
> I have just returned to filling & sanding my flying surfaces on my Xs Tri.
>
> I have used the factory supplied 'expancell' & I am finding that whenever I
> sand the filler back to a fine layer then use my airline or a brush to
> remove the dust, a number of small 'craters' appear as if there were bubbles
> trapped beneath the filler which I am exposing. I have filled & sanded some
> of my surfaces three times now and the craters don't seem to be getting any
> less.
>
> I have also tried some superfil on some surfaces but am not sure that this
> makes the job any better.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton
Christchurch.
Ph. 0064 33515166
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Simpson <dave_simpson(at)londonweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted : Dave Simpson |
Tim,
Of course. I'm around all weekend but a bit busy on Saturday morning
working on a Maule MXT-7 at Graveley Hall Farm, Graveley just north of
Stevenage, Hertfordshire. We've just finished rebuilding it, you could
come and see that if you wanted to, then come back to Tea Green to look at
the Europa. I'm also tied up for a couple of hours Sunday morning but
that's flexible, I only need daylight. When's convenient to you?
My tel nos from UK are:
01582 429453 home
07971 293295 mob.
Looking forward to hearing frorm you
(Did you realise it was Winter in England?)
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: Timothy.P.Ward [SMTP:xtr120992(at)xtra.co.nz]
Sent: 03 January 2003 18:23
Subject: Wanted : Dave Simpson
Dave,
In the UK this weekend, and will be up around Luton this weekend visiting
Gavin Lee, another NZ Europa Builder. Any chance of a quick visit to see
your project?
Cheers,
Tim Ward
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton
Christchurch.
Ph. 0064 33515166
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RG hi current batteries |
Hi! Stanislav.
Contact Jerry Davis at Lindhurst Touchdown he has a good range of compact
light batteries with excellent starting capability.
I can't turn up his e-mail address but he watches this site and I'm sure he
will respond.
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa 337 MKI/Jabiru 3300]
PS. Carefull Graham you'll get " a read all about it message!" Happy New
Year anyway!
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: RG hi current batteries
Hi Graham,
please, could you be so kind and send me one or two concrete examples of
such hi current battery (manufacturer and type number)?
Thanks very much
Stanislav, #438
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
>
> > >Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any
suggestions?
> >Gary,
> >We have a similar problem.
> >It's our third winter now and our third battery.
> >Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide
> >enough power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
> >This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current battery
> >of the type they often use in race cars.
> >The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
> >Henk & Bart
>
> Henk,
> Happy New Year, you should be using modern RG hi current batteries anyway.
> We found that 17AH was plenty big enough, others have used 12AH. The old
> wet lead acid types are not really good enough and much too heavy.
> Especially with there ability to leak. Wast3e of time, as you have
> discovered. Ask the factory why they don't sell you a decent one.
> Regards, hope to see you in 03, especially if we find the place in France!
> Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | McFadyean <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: filling & sanding |
Smooth the filler with a heated metal spatula (e.g. a wide paint scraper).
You can apply the heat directly to the back of the spatula as you draw it
across the surface of the filler.
This process helps get the filler on in the first place and can be repeated
once the filler has started to go off. The latter operation is excellent at
removing bubbles (which of course later become pin-holes that have to be
filled).
Duncan McFadyean
On Friday, January 03, 2003 6:45 AM, Richard [SMTP:riddon(at)btinternet.com]
wrote:
> I have just returned to filling & sanding my flying surfaces on my Xs
Tri.
>
> I have used the factory supplied 'expancell' & I am finding that whenever
I
> sand the filler back to a fine layer then use my airline or a brush to
> remove the dust, a number of small 'craters' appear as if there were
bubbles
> trapped beneath the filler which I am exposing. I have filled & sanded
some
> of my surfaces three times now and the craters don't seem to be getting
any
> less.
>
> I have also tried some superfil on some surfaces but am not sure that
this
> makes the job any better.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
Folks,
Can anyone give me an update on the Wilcsh diesel engine. It all appears to
have gone quiet and I haven't heard of any more been fitted?
Regards
Kev T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: website members-only area |
Gert,
Two thoughts...
1) Alternative approach to get you going ASAP: have you tried the link off
the Home Page? Does that work?
2) Do we have a problem with your browser here that needs resolving: Can you
email me a screenshot of what youre getting for a navigation bar on the
left?
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Lisbet og Gert Dalgaard
Subject: Re: website members-only area
Sorry, Jeremy, but absolutely nothing happens.
Regards Gert
-------------------------------------------------------
Gert Dalgaard Srensen
Stabelvej 9, Haarby
DK 8660 Skanderborg
Denmark
Europa builder No. 151
OY-GDS - Europa Classic/914
Phone.: +45 8695 0595
E mail: lgds(at)post6.tele.dk
http://home19.inet.tele.dk/dalgaard/oygds.jpeg
-------------------------------------------------------
jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com wrote:
If you go to the Club web site at www.europaclub.org.uk you'll see the
Members Only section listed in the navigation bar on the left hand side.
Click on the '+' to expand the section, cli.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | gear bungee tension |
Anyone got any good idea's how to re-tension the nose gear bungee on a tri
gear with the engine and firewall in place?
Mine has been under tension for around 6 weeks and seems to have lost some
of its original tension. It was very tight to start with but the nose gear
pivots off the bump stop now just with the weight of the engine/prop so I
obviously need to re-tension but can't see an easy way to pull, hold and
take up the slack whilst lying on my back underneath the fuse.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
And if you have a wet pool or just a bit much epoxy in the bottom you can
wick it out with a piece of paper towel.
JR (Bob) Gowing, No 327 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: aileron hinge flange BID size
> >Rowland
> >Yes , You will have to overlap the BID strips. An one inch overlap will
be
> >OK.
> >
> >Keeping the BID from stretching out of shape is the hardest parent.
> >Cliff Shaw
>
> The easy way is to wet out the BID on the bench. I use stuff we call cling
> film, I think you say Saran Wrap?
> Tape it to the bench, wet out the glass strips then cut the film with a
> Stanley nife and carry it to the job on the film and push it in place,
then
> carefully peel off the film. Finally carefully stipple in with a brush.
> That way the 45 BD doesn't distort and it isn't too wet either.
> Graham
>
----
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release Date: 06/12/2002
>
----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clevelee(at)cswebmail.com |
| Subject: | Re: filling & sanding |
I have also found that using a mixing board made from shelving material (smooth
plastic surface) placed in the kitchen oven at about 120f for a few minutes
makes the mixing of the suyperfil go much more smoothly (pun intended) I use
plastic putty knives (as used for spreading bondo)and can smear out the mix and
fold it back on itself. Much easier than struggling with a deep dish of stiff
filler.
Cleve Lee
A198 MonoXS Jabiru 3300
Detroit MI
McFadyean wrote:
>
> Smooth the filler with a heated metal spatula (e.g. a wide paint scraper).
> You can apply the heat directly to the back of the spatula as you draw it
> across the surface of the filler.
>
> This process helps get the filler on in the first place and can be repeated
> once the filler has started to go off. The latter operation is excellent at
> removing bubbles (which of course later become pin-holes that have to be
> filled).
>
> Duncan McFadyean
>
> On Friday, January 03, 2003 6:45 AM, Richard [SMTP:riddon(at)btinternet.com]
> wrote:
> > I have just returned to filling & sanding my flying surfaces on my Xs
> Tri.
> >
> > I have used the factory supplied 'expancell' & I am finding that whenever
> I
> > sand the filler back to a fine layer then use my airline or a brush to
> > remove the dust, a number of small 'craters' appear as if there were
> bubbles
> > trapped beneath the filler which I am exposing. I have filled & sanded
> some
> > of my surfaces three times now and the craters don't seem to be getting
> any
> > less.
> >
> > I have also tried some superfil on some surfaces but am not sure that
> this
> > makes the job any better.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Richard Iddon G-RIXS
> > The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
> The Europa Club website is at <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;
The ALL NEW CS2000 from CompuServe
Better! Faster! More Powerful!
250 FREE hours! Sign-on Now!
http://www.compuserve.com/trycsrv/cs2000/webmail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: filling & sanding |
>I have used the factory supplied 'expancell' & I am finding that whenever I
>sand the filler back to a fine layer then use my airline or a brush to
>remove the dust, a number of small 'craters' appear as if there were bubbles
>trapped beneath the filler which I am exposing. I have filled & sanded some
>of my surfaces three times now and the craters don't seem to be getting any
>less.
Richard,
You could try rolling on a thickish coat of UV Prime, then scraping most of
it off while still wet, using a rubber squeegee, the sort screen printers
use. This helps to force the filler into the bubbles without too much build up.
Europa factory used to recommend "Brushing Filler" specifically designed to
do this job and it worked well but was expensive. There used to be some
stuff from TriMite called "Ragwipe" for the same job.
I always put some Cabosil in the micro, it alters the surface tension
somehow and reduces the bubbles somewhat. West epoxy is recommended by many
experienced fillers, it sands a lot easier than the structural stuff.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Europa Club Membership Secretary <europa-club(at)rowil.clara.net> |
I've been doing a bit of tidying up. I removed a lot of the old files
that made up the website that I maintained for a while before Jeremy
took over and built the more advanced version now showing. I put
redirection pages in where I think people might have set bookmarks.
However, I _may_ have removed more than I should have, so if anyone
finds that links are broken, please report them promptly so we can
restore things.
It's probably better if you report in the first instance to Jeremy at
as there may well be things which need
his attention rather than mine.
If some of you haven't updated your bookmarks in a looooong time, you
may find you get the "404 not found" error message because I've
removed your favourite file. In that case, make sure you're starting
from the correct home page location <http://www.europaclub.org.uk>
(bookmark it now to make sure), then navigate to the page you want
using the links from there, and create a new bookmark (if you feel
the need) when you find what you're after.
regards
Rowland
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
Message text written by INTERNET:jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com
>I'm way off that stage yet, but my current thinking is to lay the cable
and
put in an external power socket similar to Nigel Charles' (for trickle
charging, externally powered start, etc.). That way, if my CoG requires a
forward battery, it becomes the cable from the socket to the electrics. If
a
rear battery is required, it becomes the battery cable.<
When deciding on battery position be sure that the C of G is where you want
it to be. In my case the C of G was near perfect for a monowheel with the
battery just aft of the flap drive tube (Classic with Rotax 912S, Airmaster
prop and comprehensive panel). IMHO perfect for a monowheel is with the C
of G as far aft as possible whilst staying within the envelope for all
envisaged combinations of weight and balance. This helps to keep weight on
the tailwheel improving directional control and helps to achieve 4 point
landings. This recommendation came from Martin Stoner who did many test
flights some years back.
To help anticipate the likely battery position it is worth bearing in mind
that VP props and heavy panels tend to lead to aft mounted batteries. The
use of heavier engines such as Subaru (or in the future Wilksch) will
certainly need the battery placed as far aft as possible. If wiring is to
be included for external power (aft of the wing for safety) there is no
extra weight penalty for an aft mounted battery. In any case two pieces of
4 gauge cable only increase the weight by about 1.5lb.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>Can anyone give me an update on the Wilcsh diesel engine. It all appears to
>have gone quiet and I haven't heard of any more been fitted?
>Kev T
Well, sort of,
The first production engine is going to fly as soon as the paper work
settles on the ground. Not in a Europa because that needs a Europa
qualified test pilot, and they are a little bit rare. Excuse perhaps, but
maybe a valid one IMHO. It will be a Thorpe 211, not so interesting an
airplane but there you go. (IM >HO).
The first customer engines will start to be fitted as soon as that series
of test flights is successfully completed.
I would be very pleased to fit one in my Long EZ but haven't got the
delivery slot or the cash. So I'm fitting a Lyconomental IO-320, with a
Berkut style installation. Foolish I know, I'm steadily running out of
steam, but that seemed like the most logical answer at the time of decision.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
Anyone got any comments / opinion on the Microair Radio and/or transponder?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
>Can anyone give me an update on the Wilcsh diesel engine. It all appears to
>have gone quiet and I haven't heard of any more been fitted
Kevin - yes, news on the 3-cylinder seems to be a bit scarce at
present. I think they're concentrating on the 4-cylinder development
now. Perhaps (like myself, attached to engine #3) some of the
3-cylinder deposit holders do not have a fuselage ready to hang the
engine on, they seem to have changed priorities somewhat.
I was sorry that I didn't manage to get to the Royal Aeronautical
Society lecture on the engine that Mark gave back in October. Perhaps
some of those here present did make it and can report?
I guess you know their website is at
<http://www.wilksch.com>
where you may find answers to some of your questions. And note the
spelling of "Wilksch".
regards
Rowland
| PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
| 420 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
Put it in the front and a good battery is the Odessey 545.
Bob Berube A166
----- Original Message -----
From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
Subject: Battery in Front or Back?
> That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel, baggage,
> maybe its better up front.
>
> SteveD
> A217
> http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LTS" <lts(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RG hi current batteries |
Hi! Stanislav - My Email and Web site details are shown below.
regards Jerry
Jerry(at)ban-bi.com or LTS(at)avnet.co.uk
www.Ban-bi.com or www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Re: RG hi current batteries
> Hi! Stanislav.
> Contact Jerry Davis at Lindhurst Touchdown he has a good range of compact
> light batteries with excellent starting capability.
> I can't turn up his e-mail address but he watches this site and I'm sure
he
> will respond.
> regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa 337 MKI/Jabiru 3300]
>
> PS. Carefull Graham you'll get " a read all about it message!" Happy New
> Year anyway!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: RG hi current batteries
>
>
> Hi Graham,
>
> please, could you be so kind and send me one or two concrete examples of
> such hi current battery (manufacturer and type number)?
>
> Thanks very much
>
> Stanislav, #438
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Cold Starting Rotax 914
>
>
> >
> > > >Has anyone experienced a similar situation and do you have any
> suggestions?
> > >Gary,
> > >We have a similar problem.
> > >It's our third winter now and our third battery.
> > >Although the battery (lead-acid, 30Ah) tests ok and seems to provide
> > >enough power, replacement did solve the problem each time.
> > >This winter we decided to try a light weight (5,4kg) high current
battery
> > >of the type they often use in race cars.
> > >The problem disappeared instantly and our 914 starts flawlessly again.
> > >Henk & Bart
> >
> > Henk,
> > Happy New Year, you should be using modern RG hi current batteries
anyway.
> > We found that 17AH was plenty big enough, others have used 12AH. The old
> > wet lead acid types are not really good enough and much too heavy.
> > Especially with there ability to leak. Wast3e of time, as you have
> > discovered. Ask the factory why they don't sell you a decent one.
> > Regards, hope to see you in 03, especially if we find the place in
France!
> > Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-2?Q?Stanislav_=A9vec?= <standa.svec(at)volny.cz> |
Thanks very much to all, sending me infos about RG batteries. All the best and
only Happy landings for 2003 to all!!
Stanislav, #438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Anyone looking for an electric horizon? You might try richard Riley. I
think he is relatively trustworthy but in CA, so not accessible to us UK people
Graham
richard(at)riley.net
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FS: Bendex electric AI
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard(at)riley.net
I have ended up with a spare electric AI. The bad news is that it's 110v
400hz 3 phase. The good news is that the inverters are available from
http://freespace.virgin.net/andy.wright617/ for $160.
The one I have is a Bendex#1978130-1, cageable with a full ball
display. Removed as serviceable and kept as a serviceable spare with a
yellow tag, sealed with desiccant and caged. I'm told it's mounted in an
ATI-3 rack.
I have $550 in it, I'll sell it for the same.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | - sorry (just delete me :-) |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Awfully quiet on the weekend! I guess everyone is busy building....
Cheers & apologies for the bandwidth waste,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
Dave, Don't assume that battery has to go in the back with a 914, unless you
absolutely insist on such a heavy battery. My monoXS/914/Kremen CS/Hawker
Energy Odyssey RG battery combination weighed in at 836lbs with CG at
58.5''. I felt this was slightly too far forward for the CG and put 3lbs in
front of the sternpost to bring the CG back to what I thing is the ideal
position of 59''- which is compatible with pretty much any combination of
fat passenger/no luggage or no pax/max luggage and max fuel. I thought that
the 3lb penalty in lead was well worth while for the convenience and
efficiency of siting the battery in the engine compartment on top of the
passenger footwell, which also saves a fair bit of weight by avoiding long
runs of heavy duty cable and the need to build a strong retaining box for
the battery, (as opposed to sitting it in a small light tray and simply
strapping it to the firewall). The battery, an Odyssey 680 weighs only 6kg,
is rated 19ah and has the enormous cranking power of 245amps. It has coped
without a moment's hesitation with starting the engine in all weathers even
after a gap of 6weeks (or more in a Falke motorglider that I have with the
same battery). Although I have the greatest respect for Nigel Charles'
ingenuity I haven't found any need for a jump lead access system. Happy New
Year, David Joyce, 402
----- Original Message -----
From: <DJA727(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Battery in Front or Back?
> In a message dated 1/3/2003 5:27:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ScramIt(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> > That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> > I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel,
baggage,
> > maybe its better up front.
> >
>
> Steve,
>
> I just finished my CG check. I have a 914 engine and I have 2 batteries. I
> installed them in the back -- long wings too. My CG is forward in the
> envelope, but well inside. I ended up at 58.8 empty. If I remove a 20
pound
> weight from there and install it at the firewall, the CG would
be.......57.4.
> That represents the shift of moving a 20 pound weight that far forward --
> basically 1.4 inches. I have the airmaster prop also, which is a heavy
weight
> forward. You could compare the difference between the engine weights
compared
> to the battery shift and make your decision. Make sure you get this right,
> because I can tell you that once you do this CG check, you feel pretty set
in
> concrete and hoping it will work out OK. For sure, the batt goes in the
back
> for a 914. For a 912 with airmaster???
> Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Steve,
Put it in front. My 912S with the NSI electric prop still had
the CG in mid range, right where it should be. Short cables, lower
weight ect.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
> That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel,
> baggage,
> maybe its better up front.
>
> SteveD
> A217
> http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl NACA Vent |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Ira,
Go the effort to move the air inlet to the area where the 914
gets its air. Put your filter and inlet in the area where the lower NACA
vent is located. I got the 914 sheet metal to close off the area and
create a perfect place to get the air. Run the red duct up to the inlet
box and that gets rid of the possibility of water in the engine. Cool
ram air. Takes a bit of work but I like it.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
> Greetings All!
>
> Happy and prosperous New Year
> Tailwinds too!
>
> In mounting my engine recently down at FlightCrafters and now
> mentally
> preparing (in New York)
> to place the suggested NACA vent inlet over the airbox, I unleased a
> query
> within my fevered brow.
> When flying in rain, how do you keep the engine from drowning? (I
> know -
> dont fly in the rain! ;-) )
>
> TIA,
>
> Ira
>
___
> The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
Bob, Passenger wt is in front of CG permissable range and thus brings CG
forward whereas fuel and luggage sit behind. If you have a full load of
everything there isn't likely to be a problem. The challenge is coping with
heavy pax with no luggage and not much fuel or at the other extreme a light
solo pilot with loads of luggage and fuel. I don't think you can predict
where your CG will be (unless perhaps you go for the Wilksch engine) as
small weight increases on the tail (?how much filler, paint, electrics) have
a disproportionate influence on CG location. I took the approach that I
preferred to have the battery in front and fitted it there, prepared to move
it if final weighing showed I had to. David
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Berube <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Battery in Front or Back?
> Put it in the front and a good battery is the Odessey 545.
> Bob Berube A166
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
> Subject: Battery in Front or Back?
>
>
> > That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> > I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel,
baggage,
> > maybe its better up front.
> >
> > SteveD
> > A217
> > http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Tri gear bungee tension |
Hi! Richard.
I used some mountain climbing gear to pull one side down and push the other
side up starting in the middle working outwards. Then when you get to the
end you can clamp it in place whilst you tie off before removing the
clamp(and probably returning to the middle for another chase). If I recall
correctly you should have 150lb down force to "break " the pivot motion with
the engine and prop. fitted. It would therefore seem that YOU need a further
150 lb resistance on yours yet. (a "pig" of a job especially with damaged
shoulders and the engine fitted)
Mine were "PETZL" TIBLOC for 10mm dia. bungee. (two off) and 10mm " clipper"
(Karabiner)(two off)
The Tiblocs are directional in that they have small spikes laid in one
direction (authorised safe for mountain climbing so they don't damage the
rubber internals of the bungee)
I bought mine from a climbing /mountaineering shop in Hathersage /Buxton but
I would expect any such shop to stock them.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Tri gear bungee tension
Anyone got any good idea's how to re-tension the nose gear bungee on a tri
gear with the engine and firewall in place?
Mine has been under tension for around 6 weeks and seems to have lost some
of its original tension. It was very tight to start with but the nose gear
pivots off the bump stop now just with the weight of the engine/prop so I
obviously need to re-tension but can't see an easy way to pull, hold and
take up the slack whilst lying on my back underneath the fuse.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
James Nelson wrote:
>Steve, Put it in front. My 912S with the NSI electric prop still had
>the CG in mid range, right where it should be. Short cables, lower
>weight ect. Jim Nelson N15JN
>
>
>
>
>>That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
>>I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel,
>>baggage,
>>maybe its better up front.
>>
>>SteveD
>>A217
>>
Steve,
FWIW, I have an XS mono with a Whirlwind prop , I put my 16 AH battery
on the firewall and the CG came out at 58.69 inches at 826 lbs empty
weight. This CG has worked out well for me. Be aware that my prop is
light at ~ 9 lbs, heavier props will move the CG forward.
Cheers, John
N262WF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Charles <72016.3721(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
Message text written by "david joyce"
>I felt this was slightly too far forward for the CG and put 3lbs in
front of the sternpost to bring the CG back to what I thing is the ideal
position of 59''- which is compatible with pretty much any combination of
fat passenger/no luggage or no pax/max luggage and max fuel. I thought that
the 3lb penalty in lead was well worth while for the convenience and
efficiency of siting the battery in the engine compartment on top of the
passenger footwell, which also saves a fair bit of weight by avoiding long
runs of heavy duty cable and the need to build a strong retaining box for
the battery, (as opposed to sitting it in a small light tray and simply
strapping it to the firewall). <
The cables and battery tray for an aft battery weigh less than 3lb of
ballast (mine weighed no more than 2lb) and make external power connection
much easier. By all means use a forward battery position if it doesn't cost
weight and (in the case of a monowheel) doesn't put the C of G too far
forward.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Popenoe" <cpops(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | tarmac Tri-gear Operation |
Query to the Forum--
I'm reconsidering the trigear option, but it seems that 75% of my present
operations is from or to sod airfields.
Would you consider operating the Europa tri-gear from sod airfields?
How about from farmer's fields? I'm referring to relatively smooth mowed
pastures, not plowed furrows ;-).
BTW, did anyone catch the account in the December Sport Aviation about the
Europa XS tri-gear which departed company with its nose gear after a touch
and go? The gear apparently tore loose and sailed over the right wingtip,
much to the astonishment of the XP's occupants!!! Nobody hurt, but a good
bit of damage suffered landing sans nose gear!
Pops
A036
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off-tarmac Tri-gear Operation |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Pops'
Have you considered doing the regular conventional gear. Flight
Crafters / Bob Berube has a very good installation for that
configuration. I installed the interior parts in my build so I could do
a change over if I tired of the retractable Mono-Wheel. I was there for
the drop tests on his gear, pretty strong attachment. See some of the
Europa club magazines and I think the flyer the company puts out. I just
saw an article on it recently. Uses the same braking as the tri gear
with the dual handles in the console. Plus it looks very nice with
pants.
Jim Nelson
N15JN (28 hours) :-))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
<005c01c2b38c$9db1e530$bc9a2341@robert>
From: Robert Berube <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com>
>Subject: Re: Battery in Front or Back?
>
>
> > Put it in the front and a good battery is the Odessey 545.
> > Bob Berube A166
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
> > Subject: Battery in Front or Back?
I would just like to add that I have the greatest respect for Bob's
opinions. He's been there before, many times. There is no substitute for
experience. IMHO
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: microair radio |
They had been both seemingly unobtainable for a long time I don't know how
it is now but the radio was constantly back ordered by everyone and no one
knew when the transponder would become available. I got tired of waiting
and went with the German Becker units, more pricy but slightly more power
and good recommendations. Haven't flown with them yet however.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Richard <riddon(at)btinternet.com>
> Date: 1/3/03 8:19:30 PM
> Subject: microair radio
>
> Anyone got any comments / opinion on the Microair Radio and/or
transponder?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Runnymede73(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: microair radio |
i have had the Becker in my motor glider since 1986
with no problems whatsover
worked perfectly over 1800 hours in all conditions from
cold Scotland to hot North africa
well recommended
bill dewey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tonyrenshaw(at)ozemail.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: aileron hinge flange BID size |
Bob,
Hi, its Tony from Sydney. Well actually I am in Singapore at the moment and spending
January in Cairns with Australian Airlines, but that is all chit a chat.
I was wondering if I could seek your advice as I recall you are ahead of me in
your build. I am about to launch off into the fuselage and have the kind offer
of the loan of a fuselage jig from Kingsley Hirst in Taroom QLD. How long did
it take you to make up a jig for your fuselage? I can get Kingsleys down to
Brisbane easily, but then I have the hassle of getting it down to Sydney. So
I am wondering whether it is better to research getting his down or building my
own. I must admit I like building jigs, but mine are always Rolls Royce, take
far too long to build and are well and truly reuseable for quite probably a
longer life than the aircraft they are designed for. I can't really help myself,
but I must say I have a really straight set of wings as a consequence. So I
will hang out for "your words of wisdom" Thanks in anticipation.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
>
> From: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au>
> Subject: Re: aileron hinge flange BID size
> Date: 05/01/2003 19:01:11
>
> And if you have a wet pool or just a bit much epoxy in the bottom you can
> wick it out with a piece of paper towel.
> JR (Bob) Gowing, No 327 in Oz
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton(at)avnet.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: aileron hinge flange BID size
>
>
> > >Rowland
> > >Yes , You will have to overlap the BID strips. An one inch overlap will
> be
> > >OK.
> > >
> > >Keeping the BID from stretching out of shape is the hardest parent.
> > >Cliff Shaw
> >
> > The easy way is to wet out the BID on the bench. I use stuff we call cling
> > film, I think you say Saran Wrap?
> > Tape it to the bench, wet out the glass strips then cut the film with a
> > Stanley nife and carry it to the job on the film and push it in place,
> then
> > carefully peel off the film. Finally carefully stipple in with a brush.
> > That way the 45 BD doesn't distort and it isn't too wet either.
> > Graham
> >
>
>
> ----
>
>
> >
> > ---
> > Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release Date: 06/12/2002
> >
>
>
> ----
>
>
> >
>
>
This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
David,
Perhaps I should have elaborated a bit more on my comment. I would only
recommend the forward location for the 912S. Any of the larger engines used
914's, 0-200 Conts. and Subarus definitely would require a rear location.
After a dozen or so of the installations, we have not had a 912S out of CG
with the forward location. Obviously that is not to say that it can't
happen with the multitude of extras we like to install. Leave yourself the
option of moving it without too much disruption. The lighter Odessey 545
battery works very well with the shorter cables.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net>
Subject: Re: Battery in Front or Back?
> Bob, Passenger wt is in front of CG permissable range and thus brings CG
> forward whereas fuel and luggage sit behind. If you have a full load of
> everything there isn't likely to be a problem. The challenge is coping
with
> heavy pax with no luggage and not much fuel or at the other extreme a
light
> solo pilot with loads of luggage and fuel. I don't think you can predict
> where your CG will be (unless perhaps you go for the Wilksch engine) as
> small weight increases on the tail (?how much filler, paint, electrics)
have
> a disproportionate influence on CG location. I took the approach that I
> preferred to have the battery in front and fitted it there, prepared to
move
> it if final weighing showed I had to. David
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Robert Berube <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: Battery in Front or Back?
>
>
> > Put it in the front and a good battery is the Odessey 545.
> > Bob Berube A166
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
> > Subject: Battery in Front or Back?
> >
> >
> > > That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> > > I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel,
> baggage,
> > > maybe its better up front.
> > >
> > > SteveD
> > > A217
> > > http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
> > > The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Mansfield" <M(at)nsfield.screaming.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Planes on TV |
Sadly, I missed the unmissable ... I was away while it was on TV ~ I don't
suppose any UK Europhile would be kind enough to lend me the video they made
of this momentous occasion?
I'd pay postage both ways, send a blank tape in advance, or whatever suits
you best.
Email me off-list if you can help...
Thanks in advance.
Paul
XS Mono 383
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Planes on TV
Unmissable UK TV - Sunday 22nd December 17:15 - 18:50 Channel 4 - Scrapheap
Mega Challenge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McKirdy" <garymckirdy(at)gloverb.freeserve.co.uk> |
Kevin,
In answer to your question Mark Wilksh asked me to report to you and the
group the following.
The first production engine is on a Thorp T211 at Cranfield. It is running
and sorted. PFA visit due today for the paperwork.
There is a video of it running at www.wilksh.com
Regards Gary McKirdy
> Folks,
>
> Can anyone give me an update on the Wilcsh diesel engine. It all appears
to
> have gone quiet and I haven't heard of any more been fitted?
>
> Regards
>
> Kev T
> ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-tarmac Tri-gear Operation |
Chuck,
I quite surprised that you haven't had more posts on the subject.
I have a trigear and fly 90% of times on grass. I guess it depends on your
idea of sown grass and "relatively smooth" however I haven't experienced a
problem. I treat the nose wheel like its made from glass and keep the weight
off it where possible for as long as possible. I find that one in the roll
you can unload the nose almost immediately anyway and let the main gear ride
any bumps. It does bob up and down a bit if you are taxiing on rough grass
but that's no problem at all. Like everyone I have had the odd bad landing
and its stayed in one piece so far. I don't think you would have a problem
at all but I don't know what kind of strips you want to go to.
Regards
Kevin
GOURO UK
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Off-tarmac Tri-gear Operation
Query to the Forum--
I'm reconsidering the trigear option, but it seems that 75% of my present
operations is from or to sod airfields.
Would you consider operating the Europa tri-gear from sod airfields?
How about from farmer's fields? I'm referring to relatively smooth mowed
pastures, not plowed furrows ;-).
BTW, did anyone catch the account in the December Sport Aviation about the
Europa XS tri-gear which departed company with its nose gear after a touch
and go? The gear apparently tore loose and sailed over the right wingtip,
much to the astonishment of the XP's occupants!!! Nobody hurt, but a good
bit of damage suffered landing sans nose gear!
Pops
A036
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john Rippengal" <j.rippengal(at)cytanet.com.cy> |
Far from being quiet the website is being updated pretty regularly and
according to the latest posting there are 16 aircraft to which WAM engines
are being fitted.
John Rippengal
By the way it is www.wilksch.com
(not wilcsh) just in case the website is not coming up for you.
> From: "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk>
>
>
> > Folks,
> >
> > Can anyone give me an update on the Wilcsh diesel engine. It all appears
> to
> > have gone quiet and I haven't heard of any more been fitted?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Kev T
> > ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: microair radio |
| From: | Paul Atkinson <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
Richard
Yes............
They are light, small, and not expensive(as opposed to cheap). The radio
is only 4 watts but that doesn't seem to be a disadvantage. In terms of
reception I have picked up traffic at least 70mi away from my garage
loud and clear with an untuned antenna. The latest version is more
powerful but I am not sure if it is available yet. In any case it will
probably be some time before it gets the necessary approvals to be used
here. As for delivery times, my transponder took a couple of months. I
brought the radio off the shelf at Sun n Fun.
Paul
On Saturday, January 4, 2003, at 03:19 , Richard wrote:
> Anyone got any comments / opinion on the Microair Radio and/or
> transponder?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)ukmicrolights.com> |
| Subject: | Re: microair radio |
I have a Becker and its good.
Regards
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: microair radio
They had been both seemingly unobtainable for a long time I don't know how
it is now but the radio was constantly back ordered by everyone and no one
knew when the transponder would become available. I got tired of waiting
and went with the German Becker units, more pricy but slightly more power
and good recommendations. Haven't flown with them yet however.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Richard <riddon(at)btinternet.com>
> Date: 1/3/03 8:19:30 PM
> Subject: microair radio
>
> Anyone got any comments / opinion on the Microair Radio and/or
transponder?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Planes on TV |
Paul,
Send me your address off list. Fortunately I videoed it and got a friend to
do it as well so I have it twice.
Regards
Kevin
kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: Planes on TV
Sadly, I missed the unmissable ... I was away while it was on TV ~ I don't
suppose any UK Europhile would be kind enough to lend me the video they made
of this momentous occasion?
I'd pay postage both ways, send a blank tape in advance, or whatever suits
you best.
Email me off-list if you can help...
Thanks in advance.
Paul
XS Mono 383
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Planes on TV
Unmissable UK TV - Sunday 22nd December 17:15 - 18:50 Channel 4 - Scrapheap
Mega Challenge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Taylor" <kevin(at)eastyorkshire.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: microair radio |
Richard,
You receiving a transmition has no bearing to the power output
(transmition )of your set.
If your receiving a station from a long way away that means they have a good
transmitter.
Although I'm sure 4 watts is enough anyway.
Regards
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
Subject: Re: microair radio
Richard
Yes............
They are light, small, and not expensive(as opposed to cheap). The radio
is only 4 watts but that doesn't seem to be a disadvantage. In terms of
reception I have picked up traffic at least 70mi away from my garage
loud and clear with an untuned antenna. The latest version is more
powerful but I am not sure if it is available yet. In any case it will
probably be some time before it gets the necessary approvals to be used
here. As for delivery times, my transponder took a couple of months. I
brought the radio off the shelf at Sun n Fun.
Paul
On Saturday, January 4, 2003, at 03:19 , Richard wrote:
> Anyone got any comments / opinion on the Microair Radio and/or
> transponder?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | x Crankcase & Gearbox |
| From: | Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)btinternet.com> |
Dear All,
I intend to leave my (Rotax) engine purchase as late as possible but would
like to temporarily hang an engine block to accurately align the cowlings.
(I prefer to align cowlings to engine rather than vice versa)
Does anyone know of of a crankcase & or gearbox lying around in the UK?
(serviceability not important). (Nigel Beale has just a crankcase)
Brgds,
Rog Sheridan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com> |
Following Kevin Taylor's request for news of the Wilksch diesel, I forwarded
the correspondence so far to Mark Wilksch and asked him to provide a
definitive progress update for the Europa Forum. Below is his response.
Build safely
Mike Gregory
Europa Club Safety Officer
m.j.gregory(at)cranfield.ac.uk
The reason to use the Thorp is that is a simple docile trainer type ideally
suited to our syndicate of 10-12.
This aircraft will be used by a syndicate headed by Paul Shenton. The idea
is to log as many hours as fast as possible, well ahead of what any customer
will do.
WAM will keep a watchful eye on the engine of course (via a CI-Log unit). I
am a member, but the syndicate is independent and not part of WAM. The
majority of members are airline pilots as it turns out.
This is a production engine with a few minor exceptions like fittings,
exhaust etc.
John Tempest visited today (6 Jan) and the remaining paperwork should only
take a few days. (see MPEG of engine running on the Thorp)
<http://www.wilksch.com>
Brien Nelson has just finished the avionics check out and will now swap back
onto converting (the very patient) Bill Wynne's Europa to the production
engine.
The Europa cowling will be moded after the Thorp test flights. This will be
aimed at improved appearance and eliminating the oil cooler. (the oil
cooling scheme is now on the Thorp cowl)
Graham S now has the footwell mods ready (Classic and XS) and is putting
together documentation to assist Europa customers with the Europa
installation.
While WAM is supplying a generic installation manual, Graham is handling the
specific Europa differences. His new fuel system bits will certainly solve a
few problems. We have an arrangement whereby Graham provides a support
service free to WAM engine booking holders.
Other news not yet on www site: our air bleed system has worked very well on
bench test. This can supply air instruments while eliminating the need for a
vac pump and expensive regulator. We are using a slightly moded version of a
reg that you usually see an your gas BBQ and it performs very well! Thorp
has vac pump but Europa will use bleed system - nice weight and space
saving.
The structural mods to the Europa have been simplified and now weigh less.
Ask Graham for details. The first to be ready looks like being Paul Atkinson
with Jim Lawn close behind. I think Paul has now fitted the G-Flight
footwell mods.
All efforts are being put into the WAM-120 at the moment, as the WAM-160
becomes easy when the -120 is fully productionised. The recent holdup has
been waiting for timing gears. We have had to change materials and heat
treatment to eliminate wear. The 120HP engine should be running again
tomorrow. Thorp will be upgraded from 100HP engine to 120 after the first
few flights. We have done plenty of running with the 120HP rating and are
happy with the robustness. The only problem that stopped us was the gears
(not actually to do with the power rating). Sounds confusing but believe me
you don't want to know the full details (unless you are studying
metallurgy).
Please pass this on to the "forum". I used to enjoy participating in it but
had to stop as the time involved became a problem. I prefer to rely on you,
Graham etc to keep me informed.
Regards............ MARK
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner(at)europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Diesel
>
> Folks,
>
> Can anyone give me an update on the Wilcsh diesel engine. It all appears
to
> have gone quiet and I haven't heard of any more been fitted?
>
> Regards
>
> Kev T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery in Front or Back? |
Hi Bob,
I don't know what we did wrong, our mono-wheel XS with 912S and 8 pound
Whirlwind prop came out just right in CG with the battery in back (a 25 pound,
25 amp-hr RG, we intend motor-gliding eventually). That's with the factory
cables.
regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
Robert Berube wrote:
> David,
> Perhaps I should have elaborated a bit more on my comment. I would only
> recommend the forward location for the 912S. Any of the larger engines used
> 914's, 0-200 Conts. and Subarus definitely would require a rear location.
> After a dozen or so of the installations, we have not had a 912S out of CG
> with the forward location. Obviously that is not to say that it can't
> happen with the multitude of extras we like to install. Leave yourself the
> option of moving it without too much disruption. The lighter Odessey 545
> battery works very well with the shorter cables.
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net>
> Subject: Re: Battery in Front or Back?
>
> > Bob, Passenger wt is in front of CG permissable range and thus brings CG
> > forward whereas fuel and luggage sit behind. If you have a full load of
> > everything there isn't likely to be a problem. The challenge is coping
> with
> > heavy pax with no luggage and not much fuel or at the other extreme a
> light
> > solo pilot with loads of luggage and fuel. I don't think you can predict
> > where your CG will be (unless perhaps you go for the Wilksch engine) as
> > small weight increases on the tail (?how much filler, paint, electrics)
> have
> > a disproportionate influence on CG location. I took the approach that I
> > preferred to have the battery in front and fitted it there, prepared to
> move
> > it if final weighing showed I had to. David
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Robert Berube <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com>
> > Subject: Re: Battery in Front or Back?
> >
> >
> > > Put it in the front and a good battery is the Odessey 545.
> > > Bob Berube A166
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <ScramIt(at)aol.com>
> > > Subject: Battery in Front or Back?
> > >
> > >
> > > > That's it that's the question. Monowheel, 912S, AirMaster prop.
> > > > I have the long cable set. Then I was thinking two people, fuel,
> > baggage,
> > > > maybe its better up front.
> > > >
> > > > SteveD
> > > > A217
> > > > http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
> > > > The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
>
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: microair radio |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>> The latest version is morepowerful but I am not sure if it is
At least the middle of this year is the latest news from Microair for
the new radio.
>>As for delivery times, my transponder took a couple of months. I
brought the radio off the shelf at Sun n Fun.
FYI. There is a problem with the first 300 MicroAir Transponders which
result in it failing to transmit. The units test OK on the ground but
will fail in live use. It appears there there was a software parameter
setup wrong which caused the problem. There are a number of rather
peeved aviators in Australia and New Zealand who have been trying to
work out why they were having problems and only after much questioning
did Microair accept that there was a problem. Considering that these are
TSO'd units there are questions being asked now as to why an AD wasn't
issued.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off-tarmac Tri-gear Operation |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>> I'm reconsidering the trigear option, but it seems that 75% of my
present
operations is from or to sod airfields.
Would you consider operating the Europa tri-gear from sod airfields?
I've operated a trike Europa from the grass runway at my local field and
several other mown airstrips without issues. We only have 14 sealed
runways in NZ so grass operations are the norm for most aircraft.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EXPBUS 12V DC Load Center |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Bob's rather heated online debate which he shows on his website was with
I stand by my comments that this is an ideal system for people who feel
nervous about doing the electrics as it considerably simplifies the
setup and, as Gerry say, it gives you a good place to start.
I've helped several other EXPBUS users here in NZ and all report
flawless operation.
If I didn't have my dual electrical system then the EXPBUS would be top
of my list for electrical systems.
One comment I will make though is that you may need to change some of
the polyfuse values to suit the systems present in the europa.
Remember... the fuse protects the wire.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: microair radio |
You can occasionally find new ones on ebay.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hagar <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, January 06, 2003 7:00 PM
December 18, 2002 - January 08, 2003
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-cw