Europa-Archive.digest.vol-dh
July 18, 2003 - August 21, 2003
>
I think it is best to avoid grinding compounds as it is very difficult
to completely remove them and particles can embed in the bronze and lead
to premature wear. I had the same problem and I used a bearing scraper
to free off the bronze bush, using engineers' blue to check progress. I
only removed sufficient bronze to give free movement in the arc in
which the tailplane will be required to move. I found this entirely
satisfactory.
Ken Whiteley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | e-mail address list |
Having had a recent problem with Windows ME I finally took the plunge and installed
XP having backed up what I thought was all my essential files. Unfortunately
this did not include my e-mail address list.
Could anyone who regularly contacts me by e-mail send a brief reply to this message
so I can re-establish a basic address list.
Thank you.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
>However, unless the fuel pump is downstream of the OV relay, it won't
pump for too long, subjected to full unregulated output from a failed
regulator! This is one misfeature of OV protection as might be wired
for the 914, compared to the 912 with a mech fuel pump. If there's no
OV relay, the battery and other items on the bus will clamp voltage to a
temporarily safe (average) voltage level, won't pop the pump CB, and
allow more than enough time for one to take corrective action before
harm is done to the battery. Provided one has clear panel warning of
the OV condition.<
The reason for an electrical pump to be connected to the regulator output is
not for regulator failure but to cater for a major failure in the rest of
the system. With the main fuse blown the regulator will cope quite
adequately with just the load of the pump. In the case of a regulator
failing to high voltage the other pump, isolated from the effects of the
regulator by the OV unit, will be working just fine from battery power.
If the load is too great for the pump connected to the regulator it will pop
its c/b or blow its fuse. No big deal as the other pump is providing fuel
pressure.
This way we are catering for most significant single failures. If you want
to cope with double failures I doubt whether you would be flying in a single
engined aircraft anyway.
Is there any form of corrective action that needs doing manually? What
action are you going to take if you have an OV condition? I would suggest
you would isolate the regulator from the rest of the system. Why not have
the OV unit do this for you?
I don't claim to be an expert in this area but I would want to be very sure
of my knowledge before ignoring the advice of Bob Nuckolls.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder building in a single garage? |
>I was wondering if there was any members of this list who had already built
or are building a kit in a single garage. I do hope to gain access to a
larger workshop further down the build process though this is not certain, I
will be building the initial stages at least in my single garage.
If someone is out their and has done this I would appreciate any advice you
may have on possible layouts/setup for building the kit in a confined
space.<
Although it is possible to do a lot of the build in a single garage extra
space will be necessary to store parts and rigging will have to be done out
of doors. If you are planning to trailer-fly buying the trailer early gives
you instant storage space. I built 95% of my Europa in a single width garage
but I did have the advantage it was over 30ft long. As I contracted out the
filling and painting I left the wing incidence, flap setup and wing fairings
until last. I was then able to borrow workspace from the contractor for 2
weeks just before filling was started. Only buy stages of the kit as you
need them if you want to minimise the storage problem. I managed to get a
neighbour to store the fuselage top which is a particularly bulky item. If
you have a tall garage you can suspend it from the ceiling.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | e-mail address list |
Nigel,
Greetings! I much enjoyed your last warning not to ignore
Nuckolls' advice without better knowledge. Several seem to have done that
with unhappy results.
Hope this helps. I can also send a list from my address pile if that would
help.
Ferg
Regards to you both
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: e-mail address list
|
| Having had a recent problem with Windows ME I finally took the plunge and
installed XP having backed up what I thought was all my essential files.
Unfortunately this did not include my e-mail address list.
|
| Could anyone who regularly contacts me by e-mail send a brief reply to
this message so I can re-establish a basic address list.
|
| Thank you.
|
| Nigel Charles
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: e-mail address list |
| From: | Dale Hetrick <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
Hi Nigel,
In case my address was lost:
gdale2(at)juno.com
Hope you can make it to San Diego in August!
Regards,
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | e-mail address list |
Here's an easier solution that will let you restore your original messages
and the address book:
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;313055 . Of course,
this won't work if you re-formatted your hard drive when you installed Win
xp.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airfarame complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nigel Charles
Subject: Europa-List: e-mail address list
Having had a recent problem with Windows ME I finally took the plunge and
installed XP having backed up what I thought was all my essential files.
Unfortunately this did not include my e-mail address list.
Could anyone who regularly contacts me by e-mail send a brief reply to this
message so I can re-establish a basic address list.
Thank you.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: e-mail address list |
Hi Ferg
Thanks for the reply.
The one good thing about this e-mail cock up is that it has made me have a
good clear out.
If I get stuck for a Europa owner address I will come to you.
Regards
Nigel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
Nigel Charles wrote:
>
> The reason for an electrical pump to be connected to the regulator output is
> not for regulator failure but to cater for a major failure in the rest of
> the system. With the main fuse blown the regulator will cope quite
> adequately with just the load of the pump. In the case of a regulator
> failing to high voltage the other pump, isolated from the effects of the
> regulator by the OV unit, will be working just fine from battery power.
> If the load is too great for the pump connected to the regulator it will pop
> its c/b or blow its fuse. No big deal as the other pump is providing fuel
> pressure.
That's generally correct, but we may disagree on potential consequences.
We can't rely on the pump's CB to trip (a fast-acting fuse is
inappropriate for an inductive device). If a failed regulator were to
supply 7 amps to the pump after the OV trips, it can take up to one hour
to trip the recommended 5A breaker. If we're lucky the pump will fail,
or it may run very hot with fuel inside plus excess pressure to flood
the carbs. A bad scenario is right after takeoff with both pumps on.
The only indication of a very serious problem may be a panel indication
that the OV has tripped, but not whether one pump is under stress.
Alternatively without an OV device doing us such a favor, the battery
will clamp the volts to that pump, with similar panel indication of a
problem, but not potential engine stoppage at the worst possible time.
It's easy to add a circuit to prevent excess volts to the pump while
keeping it safely running off a runaway regulator, but I side with Jos
Okhuijsen's post questioning the net safety benefit of add-ons like this
- one just to prevent bad results of the other.
Another observation is a Kitplanes article by Jim Weir proposing OV
protection applied only to a bus with avionics and selected instruments.
This leaves the 914 wiring as specified by Rotax, so we need not
debate who knows more than they do.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
| Subject: | New Tailwheel, old engine mount??????? |
My Europa XS/Mono with a Jabiru 3300 with the fuselage level has 42.25
inches from the ground to the center of the prop flange. A 64" diameter
prop then has 10.25 " of clearance with the tire inflated and about 6"
of clearance with the tire flat.
The Jabiru engine must have a higher thrust line giving a bit greater
prop clearance for a greater margin of safety.
Tom Friedland A 079 N96V
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nigel
Graham
Subject: Re: Europa-List: New Tailwheel, old engine mount???????
The JAR regs were defined to protect the aircraft (and pilot) under
worst-case conditions.
To check this properly on a Monowheel Europa, it will be necessary to
assemble the landing gear without the "rubber block", such that the
weight of the aircraft is borne by the nylon bump-stop. This represents
the maximum deflection possible before structural damage occurs.
The wheel should be replaced minus tyre and tube (worst-case run-flat
condition) and the aircraft gently lowered onto its rims. With the tail
lifted so that the aircraft is horizontal, the prop tip clearance should
be measured.
If, under these conditions, there is any tip clearance at all - it has
passed the test and conforms to the JARs.
This might seem like an unnecessarily long procedure, but will pale into
insignificance when compared to the time and money required to remove
the engine for shock-load testing and replace a broken blade.
Nigel (Graham)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
I measured the ground clearance on my Classic with 64" blades and the
same
on an XS. They came out at 11" and 12" respectively. There is likely to
be
slight variation between individual aircraft but this indicates that
either
conforms with JAR's.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the exhaust |
| From: | James H Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Paul,
It is usually set up for the starboard front. My German built
exhaust had it in that position.. Try it around and you will find it is
usually for the front pipes only.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting the exhaust - 912S |
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your note. I got a hold of a more recent version of the manual
which helped me identify the correct orientation for the pipes, however, it
still won't fit. The top of the silencer presses hard up against the water
hose which is not a good thing. It looks like the back 2 pipes need to be
about 12~15 mm longer. I've sent some photos off to Europa and they are
thinking about it. If I have installed it incorrectly I certainly cannot
spot my error.
Cheers, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: e-mail address list |
Hi Nigel,
Thanks very much for last Tues. I have bought an appropriate resistor and
will sort the crowbar out at the next opportunity. I found my 24 pin plug
connection list for one of two that I installed to remove the panel and both
connections to the "no charge" LED are included. I therefore should be able
to complete the circuit without removing the panel. I probably coiled the
missing wire behind the fire wall inspection hatch. One more problem - the
LED has + & - connections which I can identify from the plug pins, but it is
not obvious to me which way round it should be connected at the rectifier.
i.e. + or - to terminal "L". Can you help me with that?
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: e-mail address list
>
> Having had a recent problem with Windows ME I finally took the plunge and
installed XP having backed up what I thought was all my essential files.
Unfortunately this did not include my e-mail address list.
>
> Could anyone who regularly contacts me by e-mail send a brief reply to
this message so I can re-establish a basic address list.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Pitot - static question |
Are there any negatives or concerns to be aware of if going to a larger
cross section tubing from what comes out of the wing? I am planning on
going to a larger cross section Tygon tubing when these lines enter the
fuselage.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa AZ
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | aileron mass balance |
Can anyone give a rough estimate of what proportion of the lead ends up being removed
to balance the ailerons?
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
Paul
In my case LOTS. It depends a lot on how you mount the lead. I had to
drill 3 half inch holes through each weigh .
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
> Can anyone give a rough estimate of what proportion of the lead endup
being removed to balance the ailerons?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
I took out about half the lead...not easy to remove with a drill. I ended
up using a rotary file.
Ken Carpenter
N9XS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: aileron mass balance
>
> Paul
>
> In my case LOTS. It depends a lot on how you mount the lead. I had to
> drill 3 half inch holes through each weigh .
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds WA 98020
> (425) 776-5555
> N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
>
> > Can anyone give a rough estimate of what proportion of the lead endup
> being removed to balance the ailerons?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Paul Stewart #432
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | BBQ/Fly-in at Lydeway 2nd/3rd August |
As mentioned before I have lost my e-mail address book and associated e-mails.
This included my list of those of you booked in to my BBQ/Fly-in at Lydeway.
Could those booked in (and those on the reserve list) please send me a short e-mail
so that I can contact you with any last minute updates before the event.
Thank you.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
>That's generally correct, but we may disagree on potential consequences.
We can't rely on the pump's CB to trip (a fast-acting fuse is
inappropriate for an inductive device). If a failed regulator were to
supply 7 amps to the pump after the OV trips, it can take up to one hour
to trip the recommended 5A breaker. If we're lucky the pump will fail,
or it may run very hot with fuel inside plus excess pressure to flood
the carbs. <
Not relevent in a system like mine that uses a pressure regulating valve.
> A bad scenario is right after takeoff with both pumps on.
The only indication of a very serious problem may be a panel indication
that the OV has tripped, but not whether one pump is under stress.
Alternatively without an OV device doing us such a favor, the battery
will clamp the volts to that pump, with similar panel indication of a
problem, but not potential engine stoppage at the worst possible time.<
If the OV unit works in such a situation the remaining pump will ensure the
engine continues to run. Subsequently when time permits the pump connected
to the regulator can be switched off. In a high workload situation such as
this it is much better to have the system look after itself allowing the
pilot to concentrate on flying the aircraft. There has already been one
Europa accident where the pilot became distracted and lost control shortly
after take-off. There is no guarantee that a small aircraft battery (13 -
17Ahr) will be able to hold the battery voltage down to acceptable levels.
If there was I am sure that Bob Nuckolls would have limited his design to
just avionics protection. Total electrical failure from a single failure
with the existing system can happen and is critical to engines with just
electrical fuel pumps. By seperating the two sources of power quickly any
single failure is unlikely to cause engine shutdown.
>It's easy to add a circuit to prevent excess volts to the pump while
keeping it safely running off a runaway regulator, <
This means more complication. One voltage control circuit for the pump and
an OV unit for the avionics.
We will obviously have to agree to differ about this. I just wanted to make
it clear to those using the existing Rotax 914 electrical system that there
is a single electrical failure that can cause engine shutdown. If we are
going to bother with twin ignition systems then we should have one level of
redundancy on the electrical system which doesn't rely on immediate pilot
input. How the individual goes about this is up to them but the expertise of
Bob Nuckolls sounds like a good starting point to me.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Crowbar OV unit wiring |
As a result of discussion on the OV unit and one owner having the unit work for
real I have had another look at the wiring diagram. The live side of the relay
coil should be connected to the main busbar and not the capacitor and R/B/C
connections of the regulator as shown. This will ensure the relay contacts will
energise before engine start unless the OV c/b has tripped.
For those of you who have already incorporated this mod please accept my apologies
for this publishing error.
I will get the club mod updated as soon as possible to reflect this.
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jos Okhuijsen <josok(at)ukolo.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
We can't rely on the pump's CB to trip (a fast-acting fuse i
And the non-technical assuming continuesas as happy as before. . Why
cant's we rely on the pump's CB?
>inappropriate for an inductive device). If a failed regulator were to
>supply 7 amps to the pump after the OV trips, it can take up to one hour
>to trip the recommended 5A breaker.
>
Asumming a failed regulater feeds 7 A to the pump? Or where, in which
documentation did you find this 7 A exactly? Let me guess: You assumed it.
>If the OV unit works in such a situation the remaining pump will ensure the
>engine continues to run.
>
Without OV unit, the redundancy is there, because we have a feed from
either the generator, the battery or both for ---both--- pumps. This is
original Rotax design for a fact.
Up to the next assumption, now with some added religion from pope Bob:
>after take-off. There is no guarantee that a small aircraft battery (13 -
>17Ahr) will be able to hold the battery voltage down to acceptable levels.
>If there was I am sure that Bob Nuckolls would have limited his design to
>
I am very interested to see the numbers, again. What is the chance that
a regulator, or this particular regulator will fail in the first place?
MTBF please! While assuming, why don't we assume there is some kind of
kill-dead system in the regulator itself? In a worst case scenario, what
will be the extra charge on the battery, after the pump(s), aviaonics,
lights, strobes ect have taken there share? And please don't come up
with an assumption, these things are measurable! What is the maximum
safe charging load for the battery in low and high ambients? This should
be in your batteryies' documentation. What is the time for the battery
to loose it's stabilising effect, if the regulator fails, if the fusable
link does not blow, and if it really gets the full available charge? Do
not assume please, but test it. What is the time remaining after that
before the pump(s) would fail? Anybody did this?
>just avionics protection. Total electrical failure from a single failure
>with the existing system can happen and is critical to engines with just
>
Eh? Which scenario is this again? The assuming scenario that a failing
regulator will cause a total failure?
>electrical fuel pumps. By seperating the two sources of power quickly any
>single failure is unlikely to cause engine shutdown.
>
The separation is there, in the original Rotax circuit. If i really have
to be religious, because the facts are missing, i personally prefer to
go with the opinion of the manufacturer. After all, they might have done
some real testing and have some real data available :-) And i still will
have to believe their single crankshaft will not fail me....
>it clear to those using the existing Rotax 914 electrical system that there
>is a single electrical failure that can cause engine shutdown. If we are
>
No, there is not, not until somebody turns up facts. There are
assumptions. Lots of them.
>input. How the individual goes about this is up to them but the expertise of
>Bob Nuckolls sounds like a good starting point to me.
>
What about the expertise of the manufacurer?
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david joyce" <davidjoyce(at)beeb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
Paul, About12 to 14 1/4 inch holes drilled through each. David
----- Original Message -----
From: paul stewart <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: aileron mass balance
>
> Can anyone give a rough estimate of what proportion of the lead ends up
being removed to balance the ailerons?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KandShill(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
Hi Paul,
I took a lot off the front top surface - maybe 1/8" deep and 1 " long which helped
attain maximum aileron travel. Two things to consider: If you put an aileron
trim tab/motor on don't remove any (I think the balance will be about neutral
with the trim tab/motor in place), secondly it's better to be to nose heavy
than to light - less chance of flutter problems.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
Jos Okhuijsen wrote:
>
> We can't rely on the pump's CB to trip (a fast-acting fuse i
>
> And the non-technical assuming continues as happy as before. . Why
> cant's we rely on the pump's CB?
It comes from a Potter & Brumfield data sheet for its popular relay sold
by AC&S and Wicks. The only case which will cause the thing to pop
quickly is an amp draw assumption that appears (simple Ohm's Law math)
can never happen in the scenario here.
>>supply 7 amps to the pump after the OV trips, it can take up to one hour
>>to trip the recommended 5A breaker.
>
> Asumming a failed regulater feeds 7 A to the pump? Or where, in which
> documentation did you find this 7 A exactly? Let me guess: You assumed it.
You missed the point. If OV protection pops and full unloaded, ~100V of
rectified AC goes only to a 14V DC fuel pump, what the pump will draw,
whether the pressure kills the engine, or if it will pop the hose off
spraying fuel inside the cabin, and how the CB will perform are all
indeed pure guesses. We really shouldn't assume anything other than
potential disaster!
> I am very interested to see the numbers, again. What is the chance that
> a regulator, or this particular regulator will fail in the first place?
> MTBF please!
MTBF is irrelevant to safe aircraft system design. Bob Nuckolls has
written a short treatise on this; the FAA considers it irrelevant to
certification also.
> While assuming, why don't we assume there is some kind of
> kill-dead system in the regulator itself?
If there is such a system, whose components will fit in the tiny
regulator case, I haven't found one in dozens of tech papers by the
regulator mfr's and semiconductor application notes, and two texts on
power supply design.
> And please don't come up
> with an assumption, these things are measurable! What is the maximum
> safe charging load for the battery in low and high ambients? > This should
> be in your batteryies' documentation.
It's 15.0 volts at room temp, +/- a few tenths depending upon type of
lead-acid battery, and battery docs say beyond that don't go there. The
current to do that is a function of amp-hour capacity, and time of
course. For this reason, CPS, Inc (a Rotax dealer) says the simplest
protection against a Rotax regulator gone wild is enough AH capacity in
the battery need it or not.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OV protection |
Nigel Charles wrote:
> There is no guarantee that a small aircraft battery (13 -
> 17Ahr) will be able to hold the battery voltage down to
> acceptable levels.
There can be, but dependent upon the load on the bus. If you have 10A
of normal stuff on the bus, and the reg fails wide open at cruise RPM,
there's less than 6A extra for the battery if voltage across it rose to
16V. That's barely enough (Nuckolls allows for up to 18V) to trip the
OVM in the first place! It's about a "C/3" charge rate which will have
little short-term effect on the battery, and initially shouldn't cause
the batt rise to even 16V anyway. Switch on the lights, and overvoltage
disappears.
That's why my setup (dual alt/battery, which makes this all moot) relies
on aural/visual warning at a lowly 15.0V, meaning an OV module will do
little good. It certainly can pop on the ground before stuff is
switched on. Is that when it happened in the example you cited?
>>It's easy to add a circuit to prevent excess volts to the pump while
>> keeping it safely running off a runaway regulator, <
> This means more complication. One voltage control circuit for the
> pump and an OV unit for the avionics.
You snipped my next sentence which said that such would be dumb!
Actually 3 add-on systems. A possibly worthless OVM, a circuit to
prevent it from blowing up the electrolytic cap and fuel pump, but a big
honkin' Zener on the avionics bus is not a complication.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crowbar OV unit wiring |
Nigel Charles wrote:
> As a result of discussion on the OV unit and one owner having
> the unit work for real I have had another look at the wiring diagram.
> The live side of the relay coil should be connected to the main busbar
> and not the capacitor and R/B/C connections of the regulator as shown.
> This will ensure the relay contacts will energise before engine start
> unless the OV c/b has tripped.
>
> I will get the club mod updated as soon as possible to reflect this.
That's not clear how that prevents unregulated output (failed regulator
and OV trips) going solely and disastrously to one of the pumps if wired
according to Rotax. Bob Nuckolls' diagram w/OVM for the "912/914" shows
no fuel pumps at all - but 2 xpndrs :-), leaving me in a lurch as to
what wiring arrangement we're even talking about now. Is it possible
for that diagram to be made available to nonmembers in the interest of
safety?
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
>Can anyone give a rough estimate of what proportion of the lead ends
>up being removed to balance the ailerons?
Paul - I drilled some holes in the face of the lead weights that
mates with the foam (reasoning that it was better to remove weight
from nearer the hinge as that would make the whole assembly lighter
when balanced). I then re-shaped the upper face near the LE of the
lead, in line with recommendations from Neville. This gave me weights
in the 520g - 525g range. I know I weighed them before and after
drilling the holes, but I now can't find a reference to that in my
journal - sorry! Perhaps if you weigh yours as supplied that will
give an idea of the proportion to remove.
Before doing the BID layups on the sides of the balance horns, I
removed at least another 6g (swarf weighed) from each weight by
making a small flox corner around the lead weights as well as around
the foam part of the horn. This was a bit tedious, but not as
difficult as I feared - I used a stout but not very sharp knife to
carve it away carefully. The non-sharpness of the knife point helped
to ensure that I didn't damage the inside face of the UNI layup.
After all this, my finished aileron hangs nose-down quite similar to,
but perhaps not quite as much as, the one in the picture in the build
manual.
regards
Rowland
--
| PFA 16532 EAA 168386 Young Eagles Flight Leader 017623
| 580 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Cheers,
I have been blessed to acquire an idea from Graham Clarke of
Edinburgh, whose inquisitive mind came up with (among many other things) a
'landing Radar'.
In my own case, I have been flying all my adult life like many
others on the net. Each new aircraft called for a new skill of one kind or
another. The advertising blather aside, NO 'plane is foolproof nor the same
as any other, and the L1011 TriStar was no exception. Landing 300 folk at
140mph or more with the wheels 28 feet below and 100 feet behind called for
perception no new pilot could acquire quickly. However Lockheed installed a
proper Landing Radar (mainly for the autoland system) which produced a
sliding series if 'pips' in the earphones - warning the pilot of height and
rate of descent - from 150 to 50 feet above the gray wiggly thing. From
that, it was easy to know when to accomplish full round-out for touchdown
(that, and the nervous jerking of the First Officer). This brought the first
applause I'd ever experienced from sophisticated passengers - and it was
repeatable most of the time........
Back to Graham. He acquired one of those kits to tell you when
you were getting close to breaking glass while backing up - what some call
"Park Radar" which actually measures sub-audible returns at the back of the
car. the kit he found was from the Netherlands and cost about 50 dollars
Canadian (12cents US). It pits out a subaudible signal and listens for the
return - so it's more 'sonar' than radar but the effect is the same.It was
designed to permit a range of 5 inches to 5 feet which set off an aural
squawk to prompt braking. He added a further stage which changed the
'beep' into a sliding note, descending with the decreasing distance to the
ground. This produced a cheap efficient copy ofthe L-1011 device.
For those who must acquire the skill to land a tailwheeler
properly, this item is a true find. No, I haven't used it yet, but I KNOW
it'll save many a bacon and several prop tips. I consider it a vital adjunct
to any new Driver, Airframe who wants to put rubber to the floor safely
every time. With practice, anyone can plop a Stearman onto the lawn and
almost relax. The Europa takes a smidgen more dancing feet, and the nouse
to go around when the airspeed (Angle of Attack) is wrong. Part of that
intelligence can be gleaned from Graham's foresight.
It's worth considering if you feel you (or yours) might make use
of a
touch more awareness at round-out.
Just a thought...........
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>>> For those who must acquire the skill to land a
tailwheeler properly, this item is a true find. No, I haven't used it
yet, but I KNOW it'll save many a bacon and several prop tips. I
consider it a vital adjunct to any new Driver, Airframe who wants to
put rubber to the floor safely every time.
After a few landings I think you'll find two eyes are just as effective
at judging the flareout height!
Tony
[who is currently suffering plane withdrawal symptoms... ZK-UBD has a
sick 912 and ZK-TSK is in the paint shop]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Radar? |
Hi Tony,
What's wrong with the 912? How many hours does it have on it ?
Paul
>[who is currently suffering plane withdrawal symptoms... ZK-UBD has a
> sick 912 and ZK-TSK is in the paint shop]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Radar? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Landing Radar?
|
| >>> For those who must acquire the skill to land a
| tailwheeler properly, this item is a true find. No, I haven't used it
| yet, but I KNOW it'll save many a bacon and several prop tips. I
| consider it a vital adjunct to any new Driver, Airframe who wants to
| put rubber to the floor safely every time.
|
| After a few landings I think you'll find two eyes are just as effective
| at judging the flareout height!
Been there, done that, since 1949
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Radar? |
07/21/2003 07:21:28 AM
Speaking from no direct experience, I think a ground sensor is a reasonable
and inexpensive gizmo. I would however be fairly surprised if the
(typically) 40kHz
sonar system worked in the aircraft environment due to inherent vibrations
of the
airframe making the signal to noise ratio too small to use. Actual radar
is relatively
expensive (I have looked into automatic door radar sensors). The
alternative is one
I have been playing with a bit - an infrared optical detector. If it works,
I'll let you know.
Ira N224XS in paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trems" <Tremsx2(at)lvcm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Radar? |
Has anyone tried the sensor that is on the back bumper of a lot of SUV's.
Just a thought.
----- Original Message -----
From: <irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Landing Radar?
>
>
> Speaking from no direct experience, I think a ground sensor is a
reasonable
> and inexpensive gizmo. I would however be fairly surprised if the
> (typically) 40kHz
> sonar system worked in the aircraft environment due to inherent vibrations
> of the
> airframe making the signal to noise ratio too small to use. Actual radar
> is relatively
> expensive (I have looked into automatic door radar sensors). The
> alternative is one
> I have been playing with a bit - an infrared optical detector. If it
works,
> I'll let you know.
>
> Ira N224XS in paint shop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | aileron mass balance |
| From: | "David Glauser" <david.glauser(at)xpsystems.com> |
I found that an open "cheese grater" type rasp such as a Stanley Sureform works
wonderfully at removing the lead, and won't clog.
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net [mailto:kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: aileron mass balance
I took out about half the lead...not easy to remove with a drill. I ended
up using a rotary file.
Ken Carpenter
N9XS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
Dont make the mistake we made of trying to balance the ailerons upside down
(ie: with the hinges at the bottom). They must be done in the same
orientation as though they were fitted to the wings (ie: with the hinges at
the top).
We ended up drilling away most of the lead only to have to put it nearly all
back when we realised our mistake. For some reason upside down requires a
totally different balance to correct way up, we cant really think why (but
it does).
Anyway. we concluded that very little lead needs to be removed when you do
things correctly.
If you are not sure how to set up the balance, have a chat with Neville at
the factory.
Carl & Dot Pattinson
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: aileron mass balance
>
> Can anyone give a rough estimate of what proportion of the lead ends up
being removed to balance the ailerons?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
PS: Keep the drill cutter WELL lubricated and work your way up from a small
drill size using correct drilling speed - not too fast. Keep the lead ends
well clamped. If the drill bites into the lead the drill will probably stall
and it is almost impossible to remove without snapping the bit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: aileron mass balance
>
> Can anyone give a rough estimate of what proportion of the lead ends up
being removed to balance the ailerons?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
| From: | Mark Burton <markb(at)ordern.com> |
> Dont make the mistake we made of trying to balance the ailerons upside down
> (ie: with the hinges at the bottom). They must be done in the same
> orientation as though they were fitted to the wings (ie: with the hinges at
> the top).
Umm, on my Europa the aileron hinge is on the bottom surface. Don't
tell me I have been flying with my wings upside down all these years!
Cheers,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | : Landing Radar? |
>After a few landings I think you'll find two eyes are just as effective
>at judging the flareout height!
Tony
Not if the eyes are old and dim and the brain a bit slow! Takes longer to
learn but don't forget, there's no substitute for experience.
Graham
sorry to hear the engine went sick, hope its not serious
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | : Landing Radar? |
>
>Cheers,
> I have been blessed to acquire an idea from Graham Clarke of
>Edinburgh, whose inquisitive mind came up with (among many other things) a
>'landing Radar'.
Ferg
Graham also came up with a more agricultural, but no doubt equally
effective device which he called his "Whtie Stick"!?!
This was a long (5ft) stick that dropped down with the landing gear and
trailed on the ground. Inboard end was attached to a potentiometer, so
rotation of the pot it would register height above ground in the same
range, audio bleeps as in glider variometers which are very easy to learn
to use,
It too might save the cost of a few Warp Drive blades? A friend broke a
couple at the rally at Kemble. Hearing the story made me wonder if the
tailplane deflection was adequate. I always recommend 13 degrees of up
elevator and insist that stick is hard back on landing. When the speed
drops to 20 knots the rudder won't help any more and it's important the
tailplane (all that's holding the tail down ) isn't still lifting instead
of pushing down. Remember that on the ground tailplane angle of attack is
reduced by the amount of the ground attitude of the fuselage.
the other Graham, (sorry to be boring again)
pity he has left us due to medical and age reasons, a very bright mind.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
Umm, on my Europa the aileron hinge is on the bottom surface. Don't
tell me I have built my ailerons upside down and haven't flown yet!!!
Cheers,
Tim
Mark Burton wrote:
>
> > Dont make the mistake we made of trying to balance the ailerons upside down
> > (ie: with the hinges at the bottom). They must be done in the same
> > orientation as though they were fitted to the wings (ie: with the hinges at
> > the top).
>
> Umm, on my Europa the aileron hinge is on the bottom surface. Don't
> tell me I have been flying with my wings upside down all these years!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mark
>
--
Timothy P Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch,
NEW ZEALAND
Ph. 0064 3 3515166
email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Mobile 025 2649325
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron mass balance |
Yup !!! Wings must be on upside down or brain not working.
Hinges are on the bottom, not the top.
To put it more simply balance the ailerons the correct way up (whichever way
up that REALLY is on your aircraft).
Thanks for spotting the NOT deliberate mistake.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Burton" <markb(at)ordern.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: aileron mass balance
>
>
> > Dont make the mistake we made of trying to balance the ailerons upside
down
> > (ie: with the hinges at the bottom). They must be done in the same
> > orientation as though they were fitted to the wings (ie: with the
hinges at
> > the top).
>
> Umm, on my Europa the aileron hinge is on the bottom surface. Don't
> tell me I have been flying with my wings upside down all these years!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: : Landing Radar? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: : Landing Radar?
|
| >
| >Cheers,
| > I have been blessed to acquire an idea from Graham Clarke of
| >Edinburgh, whose inquisitive mind came up with (among many other things)
a
| >'landing Radar'.
|
| Ferg
| Graham also came up with a more agricultural, but no doubt equally
| effective device which he called his "Whtie Stick"!?!
| This was a long (5ft) stick that dropped down with the landing gear and
| trailed on the ground. Inboard end was attached to a potentiometer, so
| rotation of the pot it would register height above ground in the same
| range, audio bleeps as in glider variometers which are very easy to learn
| to use,
| It too might save the cost of a few Warp Drive blades? A friend broke a
| couple at the rally at Kemble. Hearing the story made me wonder if the
| tailplane deflection was adequate. I always recommend 13 degrees of up
| elevator and insist that stick is hard back on landing. When the speed
| drops to 20 knots the rudder won't help any more and it's important the
| tailplane (all that's holding the tail down ) isn't still lifting instead
| of pushing down. Remember that on the ground tailplane angle of attack is
| reduced by the amount of the ground attitude of the fuselage.
| the other Graham, (sorry to be boring again)
| pity he has left us due to medical and age reasons, a very bright mind.
Well, yes, I heard of it - a kerb feeler.......
He also enlightened me as to his webcam 'wheel-eye' - a webcam under the
belly, looking at the mainwheel and the ground whizzing by.
I'm thinking - I'm thinking.
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au |
| Subject: | New Tailwheel Ply inserts |
gidday,
Some time ago I recall advice regarding the replacement, or substitution of the
ply
inserts in the tailwheel setup due to compression forces squashing the ply. Is
this
true of the new tailwheel setup, and if so, any advice as to what is a better
medium to use? No doubt a metal replacement would be possible, at the expense
of time in ease of shaping, and weight. I don't actually know if this is a problem
or
not.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Radar? |
Gidday Paul,
I was wondering if you were off to Oshkosh?? I was reading Tony Consonants
home page and was impressed with the idea of using a cheap domed inspection
plate on the tail inspection access holes, with a steel spring that holds them
in
place. This alleviates the need to have any screws attaching the cover. He
mentions they are only a couple of bucks each, so if you are going, and if you
don't mind I was wondering if you could get me a couple? I would expect the
easiest way to get them from you would be to ask you to drill off the steel spring
and then simply post them in a normal envelope.
http://www.kaon.co.nz/europa/272ab.html
This is the link to what Tony has done, and if you have any further ideas, I'd
really
like to hear them.
I am currently about to bond in place the brass bushes for the tailplane. It is
level
and square and I am pleased with the result. The worst part of where I have set
it
up is that I have to place the tailplane in position on each side and slide the
torque
tube into it, as I haven't got enough lateral room to fit the tailplanes due to
the
width of the garage at that point. Oh well, you can't have it all and it doesn't
matter
until I finally fit the larger pins for the last time. How are you going??
Reg
Tony Renshaw
> Paul McAllister wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi Tony,
>
> What's wrong with the 912? How many hours does it have on it ?
>
> Paul
>
> >[who is currently suffering plane withdrawal symptoms... ZK-UBD has
> a
> > sick 912 and ZK-TSK is in the paint shop]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Radar? |
Gidday Tony,
I am thinking of copying the good idea you posted regarding the metal clips that
hold your inspection covers in place on the rear fuse. I have asked Paul Mac to
see if he is going to Oshkosh to see if he can post me the clips. Would you still
recommend it as a suggestion, or have you moved on and came up with a different
setup, since it was some time ago?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
> Tony S. Krzyzewski wrote:
>
>
>
> >>> For those who must acquire the skill to land a
> tailwheeler properly, this item is a true find. No, I haven't used it
> yet, but I KNOW it'll save many a bacon and several prop tips. I
> consider it a vital adjunct to any new Driver, Airframe who wants
> to
> put rubber to the floor safely every time.
>
> After a few landings I think you'll find two eyes are just as
> effective
> at judging the flareout height!
>
> Tony
> [who is currently suffering plane withdrawal symptoms... ZK-UBD has a
> sick 912 and ZK-TSK is in the paint shop]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
> _-
============================================================
=======
> ===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>>>> What's wrong with the 912? How many hours does it have on it ?
294 hours. Corroded exhaust and a broken carb mount on the port side. It
decided that it wouldn't start one morning and that's when we found the
carb problem.
The previous owner had taped the exhausts and that resulted in
corrosion.
The bits are on the way over and I should be airborne in a week or so.
Of course it has to be absolutely perfect mid winter flying without a
cloud in the sky right now... And it's been like that for several
days!!!
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inspection hole covers |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Gidday Paul,
>> I was wondering if you were off to Oshkosh?? I was reading Tony
Consonants
home page and was impressed with the idea of using a cheap domed
inspection
plate on the tail inspection access holes, with a steel spring that
holds them in
place.
Read on. The clip in plates have been replaced with the original screwed
plates as this is a structural area. You should not use clip in plates
for the aft inspection holes.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Hi
Last message contained wrong home address. Please use VE3LVO(at)rac.ca
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | New Tailwheel Ply inserts |
> From: <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 11:08 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: New Tailwheel Ply inserts
>
>
> |
> |
> | gidday,
> | Some time ago I recall advice regarding the replacement, or substitution
> of the ply
> | inserts in the tailwheel setup due to compression forces squashing the
> ply. Is this
> | true of the new tailwheel setup, and if so, any advice as to what is a
> better
> | medium to use? No doubt a metal replacement would be possible, at the
> expense
> | of time in ease of shaping, and weight. I don't actually know if this is
a
> problem or
> | not.
> | Reg
> | Tony Renshaw
> | Sydney Australia
>
> Tony,
> I presume it's worry that the tailwheel spring is compressing
> the myriad layers in the rudder bulkhead? I recently saw where someone had
> added a stainless steel plate atop the entry of the spring to resist
forces
> in a heavy landing. Should we ask Nev and Graham?
> Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henk Roelofs <henk(at)loginet.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Radar? |
>
>Has anyone tried the sensor that is on the back bumper of a lot of SUV's.
>Just a thought.
Yes.
It didn't work.
Probably too much noise.
Henk & Bart
PH-BGV, Europa #264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: New Tailwheel Ply inserts |
There's an approved (PFA) mod in this area (submitted by Dave Hunter, but
designed by someone else) that is supposed to overcome the sloppiness that
can develop in this area with time and funny landings.
Duncan McF.
>
> > From: <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
> > To:
> > Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 11:08 PM
> > Subject: Europa-List: New Tailwheel Ply inser
> > |
> > |
> > | gidday,
> > | Some time ago I recall advice regarding the replacement, or
substitution
> > of the ply
> > | inserts in the tailwheel setup due to compression forces squashing the
> > ply. Is this
> > | true of the new tailwheel setup, and if so, any advice as to what is a
> > better
> > | medium to use? No doubt a metal replacement would be possible, at the
> > expense
> > | of time in ease of shaping, and weight. I don't actually know if this
is
> a
> > problem or
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: : Landing Radar? |
I thought that the "white stick" idea was originally suggested on 1st
April........................!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: : Landing Radar?
>
> >
> >Cheers,
> > I have been blessed to acquire an idea from Graham Clarke of
> >Edinburgh, whose inquisitive mind came up with (among many other things)
a
> >'landing Radar'.
>
> Ferg
> Graham also came up with a more agricultural, but no doubt equally
> effective device which he called his "Whtie Stick"!?!
> This was a long (5ft) stick that dropped down with the landing gear and
> trailed on the ground. Inboard end was attached to a potentiometer, so
> rotation of the pot it would register height above ground in the same
> range, audio bleeps as in glider variometers which are very easy to learn
> to use,
> It too might save the cost of a few Warp Drive blades? A friend broke a
> couple at the rally at Kemble. Hearing the story made me wonder if the
> tailplane deflection was adequate. I always recommend 13 degrees of up
> elevator and insist that stick is hard back on landing. When the speed
> drops to 20 knots the rudder won't help any more and it's important the
> tailplane (all that's holding the tail down ) isn't still lifting instead
> of pushing down. Remember that on the ground tailplane angle of attack is
> reduced by the amount of the ground attitude of the fuselage.
> the other Graham, (sorry to be boring again)
> pity he has left us due to medical and age reasons, a very bright mind.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "david.corbett" <david.corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
| Subject: | South Africa to Oshkosh and return |
I have recently exchanged fax messages with Ron van Leer, the South Africa agent
for Europa.
He tells me that 5 aircraft (types unspecified - apologies to those at the AGM
at Kemble, whom I told that they were Europa's) are flying from SA to Oshkosh
via west coast Africa, Europe, Iceland, Greenland, Canada, Oshkosh, and return
via the same route except that they will go down the east coast of Africa on
the way home. All of this, apparently, in 5 weeks.
Any further information on the progress of this pilgrimage will be gratefully received
on this the forum, I expect - even though there may be no Europa's in
this team.
David
G-BZAM UK 265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: New Tailwheel Ply inserts |
Ferg,
I will ask them and see what they have to say, bouncing you a reply.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
>
>> From: <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 11:08 PM
>> Subject: Europa-List: New Tailwheel Ply inserts
>>
>>
>> |
>> |
>> | gidday,
>> | Some time ago I recall advice regarding the replacement, or substitution
>> of the ply
>> | inserts in the tailwheel setup due to compression forces squashing the
>> ply. Is this
>> | true of the new tailwheel setup, and if so, any advice as to what is a
>> better
>> | medium to use? No doubt a metal replacement would be possible, at the
>> expense
>> | of time in ease of shaping, and weight. I don't actually know if this is
>a
>> problem or
>> | not.
>> | Reg
>> | Tony Renshaw
>> | Sydney Australia
>>
>> Tony,
>> I presume it's worry that the tailwheel spring is compressing
>> the myriad layers in the rudder bulkhead? I recently saw where someone had
>> added a stainless steel plate atop the entry of the spring to resist
>forces
>> in a heavy landing. Should we ask Nev and Graham?
>> Ferg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
Not intending to paint ourselves - don't want to ruin all the hard work nor indeed
get involved with two pack paints. Can anyone recommend any sprayers in the
UK (even better around the midlands) with appropriate experience ?
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <Randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
Rob Millinship is an acknowledged pundit on painting. He painted G-BXTD
(with a little help from myself!). His number is Nottingham (0115) 9290315.
The only problem is that he is usually very busy.
Roger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: painting
>
> Not intending to paint ourselves - don't want to ruin all the hard work
nor indeed get involved with two pack paints. Can anyone recommend any
sprayers in the UK (even better around the midlands) with appropriate
experience ?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K.Pilcher" <kpeng(at)waverider.co.uk> |
Hi Paul
Col Noakes At Colmart, done lots of Europa's and based at
Wednesfield near Wolverhampton 01902 607695
Regards
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: painting
>
> Not intending to paint ourselves - don't want to ruin all the hard work
nor indeed get involved with two pack paints. Can anyone recommend any
sprayers in the UK (even better around the midlands) with appropriate
experience ?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart #432
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Dave Watts left a Europa Classic spinner with me at Kemble for
someone to pick up, but no-one did and I've forgotten who Dave said
it belonged to. Dave seems to be off-air at present - anyone claim
the spinner?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: europa spinner |
If it has constant speed prop and 912S attached to it, then it's mine.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
If it is not too much trouble, could someone measure the wingtip end of their
ailerons, as I'm having an alignment problem.
With the aileron lying flat on a table, my ailerons measure, 4.57cm/1.8" from
the leading edge of the lip that the hinges are mounted to, to the top of the
aileron. From that same hinge leading edge to the trailing edge I measure
17cm/ 6.93". And overall leading edge to trailing edge 20.6cm/8.125".
My problem arises when I mount the aileron in place using clecos, the
trailing edge of the aileron is 1.2cm/.475" short of the wingtip leading edge,
and
while the bottom surface of the aileron lines up the bottom surface of the
wingtip, the top surface is about .63cm/.250" lower across it's entire length than
the wingtip top surface.
And this closely repeats on both port and starboard aileron. What am I doing
wrong?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | grroberts3(at)juno.com |
All,
I have installed a NavAid wing leveler as per the Club mod. Is an
electric aileron trim redundant, or something I'll likely wish I had when
I finally fly this thing? Now is the time I need to decide. I have
little fixed wing flight time and therefore lack the experience to make a
comfortable judgement. Some opinions please?
Gary R. Roberts
Tucson, AZ
Kit A187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
Hi Mike,
Same thing happened to me. Talked to Neville and Andy at Europa.
This is case for many builders. They told me that the tip mouldings
are too big. You have to blend it out with filler and cut the
moulding trailing tip.
First check if your aileron and flap TE lines up correct. One builder
in Norway had to extend the aileron flange (wings side).
Regards
Stephan Cassel
Norway
XS Mono
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron Fit
If it is not too much trouble, could someone measure the wingtip end of
their
ailerons, as I'm having an alignment problem.
With the aileron lying flat on a table, my ailerons measure, 4.57cm/1.8"
from
the leading edge of the lip that the hinges are mounted to, to the top of
the
aileron. From that same hinge leading edge to the trailing edge I measure
17cm/ 6.93". And overall leading edge to trailing edge 20.6cm/8.125".
My problem arises when I mount the aileron in place using clecos, the
trailing edge of the aileron is 1.2cm/.475" short of the wingtip leading
edge, and
while the bottom surface of the aileron lines up the bottom surface of the
wingtip, the top surface is about .63cm/.250" lower across it's entire
length than
the wingtip top surface.
And this closely repeats on both port and starboard aileron. What am I doing
wrong?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Mike Hi!
>
> With the aileron lying flat on a table, my ailerons measure, 4.57cm/1.8" from
> the leading edge of the lip that the hinges are mounted to, to the top of the
> aileron. From that same hinge leading edge to the trailing edge I measure
> 17cm/ 6.93". And overall leading edge to trailing edge 20.6cm/8.125".
>
> My problem arises when I mount the aileron in place using clecos, the
> trailing edge of the aileron is 1.2cm/.475" short of the wingtip leading edge,
> and while the bottom surface of the aileron lines up the bottom surface of the
> wingtip, the top surface is about .63cm/.250" lower across it's entire length
> than the wingtip top surface.
Wingtip Leading edge? Do you mean Trail edge?
I've measured mine and discovered the Port Aileron measures 6 5/8", the
Starboard 6 3/4. The Trail edges are about aligned in a 'tidy' way. That
means it looks sort of OK. That measurement is width of outboard bottom
surface.
The Port Aileron is slightly lower than Starboard in alignment with top skin
of Wing. 1/8" in it.
Funnily as they are both sit at opposite extremes the difference isn't easy
to see. So guess what..... It it flies OK (Not too long now) then that's how
it will stay!
A photo might help posted to Photo-share service on Matronics Server.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
Hi,
The wingtip moulding trailing edge must be cut.
(On my kit that is the case). But check that the flap
trailing edge lines up with the aileron trailing
edge.
Regards,
Stephan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gerry
Holland
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Aileron Fit
Mike Hi!
>
> With the aileron lying flat on a table, my ailerons measure, 4.57cm/1.8"
from
> the leading edge of the lip that the hinges are mounted to, to the top of
the
> aileron. From that same hinge leading edge to the trailing edge I measure
> 17cm/ 6.93". And overall leading edge to trailing edge 20.6cm/8.125".
>
> My problem arises when I mount the aileron in place using clecos, the
> trailing edge of the aileron is 1.2cm/.475" short of the wingtip leading
edge,
> and while the bottom surface of the aileron lines up the bottom surface of
the
> wingtip, the top surface is about .63cm/.250" lower across it's entire
length
> than the wingtip top surface.
Wingtip Leading edge? Do you mean Trail edge?
I've measured mine and discovered the Port Aileron measures 6 5/8", the
Starboard 6 3/4. The Trail edges are about aligned in a 'tidy' way. That
means it looks sort of OK. That measurement is width of outboard bottom
surface.
The Port Aileron is slightly lower than Starboard in alignment with top skin
of Wing. 1/8" in it.
Funnily as they are both sit at opposite extremes the difference isn't easy
to see. So guess what..... It it flies OK (Not too long now) then that's how
it will stay!
A photo might help posted to Photo-share service on Matronics Server.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | New Tailwheel Ply inserts |
> >> | gidday,
> >> | Some time ago I recall advice regarding the replacement, or substitution
> >> of the ply
> >> | inserts in the tailwheel setup due to compression forces squashing the
> >> ply. Is this
> >> | true of the new tailwheel setup, and if so, any advice as to what is a
> >> better
> >> | medium to use? No doubt a metal replacement would be possible, at the
> >> expense
There is another variable in this scenario that affects the tension of the
spring retaining bolt. That is the stiffness of the short length of (4130 I
trust?) steel with a relatively large 5/16" hole reducing its width and
stiffness. I have seen one or two of these bent by the bolt load at the
center. I would prefer to use a larger piece of steel with a small flange
on the forward end to increase bending stiffness. Then teh bolt tension is
spread over the whole of the area of the plywood inserts.
In the event of a large side load, such as the bump during a ground loop,
the bolt will bend and absorb a lot of the energy. (seen that, too) I don't
think there is much problem with the sternpost. I've never seen any damage
in that area. Don't forget though, I haven't seen as many Europas as the
factory have, so a second opinion from Andy and Neville would be most welcome.
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
I have a Digitrak wing leveler and an aileron trim. The trim is only needed
with addition of passenger. The wing leveler just has less work to do and I
think it preferable to have a balanced plane without the leveler.
Ken Carpenter N9XS
----- Original Message -----
From: <grroberts3(at)juno.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron Trim
>
> All,
>
> I have installed a NavAid wing leveler as per the Club mod. Is an
> electric aileron trim redundant, or something I'll likely wish I had when
> I finally fly this thing? Now is the time I need to decide. I have
> little fixed wing flight time and therefore lack the experience to make a
> comfortable judgement. Some opinions please?
>
>
> Gary R. Roberts
> Tucson, AZ
> Kit A187
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Hi All,
Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with suggestions please?
On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when descending with
about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in cruise, but on my
last flight the engine was running so roughly in the cruise I aborted the flight
and nursed it back home.
I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full throttle,
it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran very roughly.
I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no change on either
mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it was rpm related,
but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change. The carbs are well
balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right down to 1500 rpm. The
fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the problem is related to carburation,
but find it difficult to believe that one can have a partial blockage,
or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid range only. As tickover is
smooth and roughness stops in flight when descending with closed throttle, I can
only assume that the slow running mixture adjustment and associated jet are
OK. Are there any other jets apart from the main needle and slow running jet
to consider? Although I never have a problem with starting, can a problem with
the starting carb affect the mid range running only? Can a faulty float valve
affect mid range only? My engine has done about 480 hrs, should I be considering
renewing any of the carb parts as a precaution / planned maintenance etc?
I have had a brief chat with Conrad, but he was unable to put his finger
on the problem, so presumably my symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should
check the needles for wear and the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which
I will.
Many thanks for any help,
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
| From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
07/25/2003 09:16:51 AM,
Serialize complete at 07/25/2003 09:16:51 AM
Sorry, William, what is tickover?
Ira
N224XS with 912S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
|
| Hi All,
| Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
suggestions please?
| On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
cruise, but on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the
cruise I aborted the flight and nursed it back home.
| I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
very roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no
change on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it
was rpm related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change.
The carbs are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right
down to 1500 rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the
problem is related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that one
can have a partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid
range only. As tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when
descending with closed throttle, I can only assume that the slow running
mixture adjustment and associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets
apart from the main needle and slow running jet to consider? Although I
never have a problem with !
| starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range
running only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine
has done about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb
parts as a precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat
with Conrad, but he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so
presumably my symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should check the needles
for wear and the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
| Many thanks for any help,
| Regards,
William,
There are those better qualified than I to comment, but I seem
to remember a message of midrange misfiring being caused (eventually) by a
suction leak in the fuel lines - greater effect in cruise/low power, than at
high power - and ground idle unaffected.
FWIW, the difficulty was in finding the leak, as no fuel drips, staining.
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
In a message dated 7/24/2003 11:34:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
combined.merchants(at)virgin.net writes:
> Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
> suggestions please?
> On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
> descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in cruise,
but
> on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the cruise I aborted
> the flight and nursed it back home.
> I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
> throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran very
> roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no change
> on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it was rpm
> related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change. The carbs
> are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right down to 1500
> rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the problem is
> related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that one can have a
> partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid range only.
As
> tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when descending with closed
> throttle, I can only assume that the slow running mixture adjustment and
> associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets apart from the main needle and
> slow running jet to consider? Although I never have a problem with !
> starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range running
> only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine has done
> about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb parts as a
> precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat with Conrad, but
> he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so presumably my symptoms are
> unusual. He suggested I should check the needles for wear and the carb
> rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
Check your little hoses that run around the carburetor area. I have a 914, so
I don't know if the system is the same, but I had a very similar problem and
it turned out to be a split in one of those hoses.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> |
Gary,
I have been flying with the NavAid also. I would recommend installing some sort
of aileron trim. I used an electric unit mounted in the aileron. Although
I use the autopilot as much as possible there are times when you will hand fly
the plane and trim is a must. I notice a big difference between flying solo
and a passenger aboard. Also with the plane trimmed the autopilot has less work
to do.
Regards,
Erich Trombley
N28ET
All,
I have installed a NavAid wing leveler as per the Club mod. Is an
electric aileron trim redundant, or something I'll likely wish I had when
I finally fly this thing? Now is the time I need to decide. I have
little fixed wing flight time and therefore lack the experience to make a
comfortable judgement. Some opinions please?
Gary R. Roberts
Tucson, AZ
Kit A187
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
Always trying to get my data more accurate, I'm hoping to tidy up the
records of first flight pilots.
I noticed I have several spellings of the guy who's done a number of
first flights of Europas in the Florida area. His first name is Lee,
but is his surname Olmernik, Omernick, Omernik, or maybe something
different from any of those?
Likewise there are two names very similar who have also done first
flights in USA; I have both T Henrub and T Hinyub, which sounds like
a typo or mis-hearing somewhere down the line.
Is the F Chapman who's done some French first flights the same as
Frank Chapman who's done some from English soil?
What about G Beale - is he the same as Gordon Beal, and which
spelling is correct?
Finally, is J Price the same as John Price?
I'm sure you all have engraved on your heart the name of the person
who first flew your creation, so I haven't bothered to add the
registration marks of the Europas involved. I'd like to hear from
anyone who can give authoritative answers, please!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532 EAA #168386
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wrong Size Wingtips? |
Good day All,
This is a follow up of my previous question. Thanks to those that steered me
towards the wingtips being built to the wrong dimension. I have just finished
mounting the flap and aileron on my port wing. I also took the time to
reinstall the flap and aileron onto my starboard wing. The trailing edges of both
the
flap and aileron, on both port and starboard wings, line up just fine. But
the wingtip makes a big misalignment towards the outer end of the aileron.
Has anyone fought this problem already? What steps did you take to resolve
it? What did the factory have to say? I hope that I don't have to fill in then
feather out both ailerons!
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Europa Aircraft" <europa(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
William,
Check your CHT temps. If they are too low, the engine can fowl, even on
unleaded fuel. I had exactly the same problem, however when I got the
engine to run a little hotter, it went away. The roughness didn't show up
until the engine had about 400 hrs.
Good Luck!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William
Mills
Subject: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
Hi All,
Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
suggestions please?
On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
cruise, but on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the
cruise I aborted the flight and nursed it back home.
I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
very roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no
change on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it
was rpm related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change.
The carbs are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right
down to 1500 rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the
problem is related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that one
can have a partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid
range only. As tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when
descending with closed throttle, I can only assume that the slow running
mixture adjustment and associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets
apart from the main needle and slow running jet to consider? Although I
never have a problem with !
starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range running
only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine has done
about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb parts as a
precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat with Conrad,
but he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so presumably my
symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should check the needles for wear and
the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
Many thanks for any help,
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spelling query |
Roland,
The two tests pilots in the Florida area are Thurston (Jaybo) Hinyub and Lee
Omernik. Unfortunately Mr. Hinyub is no longer with us, He and his wife
Rusty were fatally injured in the crash of a D-18 a couple of years ago.
They were truly wonderful people and missed very much by everyone.
Regards,
Bob Berube
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rowland & Wilma Carson" <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: Europa-List: spelling query
>
> Always trying to get my data more accurate, I'm hoping to tidy up the
> records of first flight pilots.
>
> I noticed I have several spellings of the guy who's done a number of
> first flights of Europas in the Florida area. His first name is Lee,
> but is his surname Olmernik, Omernick, Omernik, or maybe something
> different from any of those?
>
> Likewise there are two names very similar who have also done first
> flights in USA; I have both T Henrub and T Hinyub, which sounds like
> a typo or mis-hearing somewhere down the line.
>
> Is the F Chapman who's done some French first flights the same as
> Frank Chapman who's done some from English soil?
>
> What about G Beale - is he the same as Gordon Beal, and which
> spelling is correct?
>
> Finally, is J Price the same as John Price?
>
> I'm sure you all have engraved on your heart the name of the person
> who first flew your creation, so I haven't bothered to add the
> registration marks of the Europas involved. I'd like to hear from
> anyone who can give authoritative answers, please!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
> --
>
> | Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
> | Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532 EAA #168386
> | e-mail website
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spelling query |
>Roland,
>The two tests pilots in the Florida area are Thurston (Jaybo) Hinyub and Lee
>Omernik
Bob - thanks for that, much obliged.
--
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
| Subject: | Wrong Size Wingtips? |
Hi Mike
I have been told by the factory (Nev and Andy) there
is only one way out: fill in order to blend it out. I took a look
on a Cessna 172, just to see how the flap and the aileron lined up:
it looked very bad. The tip-moulding, aileron and flap did not
line up at all. After the "172-inspection" I can live with small
misalignment (big misalignment blended out).
My guess is that the misalignment problem will be mentioned in the
Europa Newsletter one day.
Stephan Cassel
Builder 556
Norway
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Wrong Size Wingtips?
Good day All,
This is a follow up of my previous question. Thanks to those that steered me
towards the wingtips being built to the wrong dimension. I have just
finished
mounting the flap and aileron on my port wing. I also took the time to
reinstall the flap and aileron onto my starboard wing. The trailing edges of
both the
flap and aileron, on both port and starboard wings, line up just fine. But
the wingtip makes a big misalignment towards the outer end of the aileron.
Has anyone fought this problem already? What steps did you take to resolve
it? What did the factory have to say? I hope that I don't have to fill in
then
feather out both ailerons!
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
| Subject: | 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Hi All,
I have read number of messages about Rotax problem round 400 hrs mark or
less.
I not yet decided what engine I will install. Must likely a Rotax 912S.
But I am getting worried about these messages.
I used to have an old Cherokee with an old Lycomming 320, 1400 hrs
Never any problem. I felt very safe flying 30 years old plane.
Question:
Is Rotax a safe Engine? Is it good for 1200-1400 hrs?
I hope so.
Regards,
Stephan Cassel
Builder 556 - Mono
Norway
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Europa
Aircraft
Subject: RE: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
William,
Check your CHT temps. If they are too low, the engine can fowl, even on
unleaded fuel. I had exactly the same problem, however when I got the
engine to run a little hotter, it went away. The roughness didn't show up
until the engine had about 400 hrs.
Good Luck!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William
Mills
Subject: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
Hi All,
Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
suggestions please?
On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
cruise, but on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the
cruise I aborted the flight and nursed it back home.
I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
very roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no
change on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it
was rpm related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change.
The carbs are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right
down to 1500 rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the
problem is related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that one
can have a partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid
range only. As tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when
descending with closed throttle, I can only assume that the slow running
mixture adjustment and associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets
apart from the main needle and slow running jet to consider? Although I
never have a problem with !
starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range running
only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine has done
about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb parts as a
precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat with Conrad,
but he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so presumably my
symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should check the needles for wear and
the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
Many thanks for any help,
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wrong Size Wingtips? |
Thanks Stephan. I guess I'll have to do some "artistic filling" in order to
cut down on the drag that the misalignment would cause. What do you plan to use
for the filler? I have the Q-Cell stuff, but am not too sure on how to
approach it. I'll have to put some thought in to it.
Good luck.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Hi Ira,
Tick-over is another term used for idle. I have found a small slither of
silicone in one of the needle jets, so I hope that was the cause.
Best wishes, William
----- Original Message -----
From: <irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
> Sorry, William, what is tickover?
>
>
> Ira
> N224XS with 912S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Many thanks, John,
I try to keep my coolant temp up to about 90deg.C by partial blanking of the
rads. However, I have found a small slither of silicone in one of the
needle jets, which might have been the cause.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Europa Aircraft" <europa(at)gate.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
> William,
>
> Check your CHT temps. If they are too low, the engine can fowl, even on
> unleaded fuel. I had exactly the same problem, however when I got the
> engine to run a little hotter, it went away. The roughness didn't show up
> until the engine had about 400 hrs.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> John Hurst
> Europa Aircraft
> Lakeland, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William
> Mills
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
>
>
>
> Hi All,
> Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
> suggestions please?
> On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
> descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
> cruise, but on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the
> cruise I aborted the flight and nursed it back home.
> I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
> throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
> very roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was
no
> change on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it
> was rpm related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change.
> The carbs are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right
> down to 1500 rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the
> problem is related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that
one
> can have a partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid
> range only. As tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when
> descending with closed throttle, I can only assume that the slow running
> mixture adjustment and associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets
> apart from the main needle and slow running jet to consider? Although I
> never have a problem with !
> starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range
running
> only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine has done
> about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb parts as a
> precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat with
Conrad,
> but he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so presumably my
> symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should check the needles for wear
and
> the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
> Many thanks for any help,
> Regards,
> William
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your suggestion. All seems to be OK with the pipes and hoses,
but I found a small slither of silicone in one of the needle jets, which I
hope will solve the problem.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: <DJA727(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
> In a message dated 7/24/2003 11:34:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> combined.merchants(at)virgin.net writes:
>
> > Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
> > suggestions please?
> > On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
> > descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
cruise, but
> > on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the cruise I
aborted
> > the flight and nursed it back home.
> > I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
> > throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
very
> > roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no
change
> > on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it was
rpm
> > related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change. The
carbs
> > are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right down to
1500
> > rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the problem is
> > related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that one can
have a
> > partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid range
only. As
> > tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when descending with
closed
> > throttle, I can only assume that the slow running mixture adjustment and
> > associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets apart from the main
needle and
> > slow running jet to consider? Although I never have a problem with !
> > starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range
running
> > only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine has
done
> > about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb parts as
a
> > precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat with
Conrad, but
> > he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so presumably my
symptoms are
> > unusual. He suggested I should check the needles for wear and the carb
> > rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
>
> Check your little hoses that run around the carburetor area. I have a 914,
so
> I don't know if the system is the same, but I had a very similar problem
and
> it turned out to be a split in one of those hoses.
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Hi Ferg,
Many thanks for the suggestion. I have checked for all possibilities of
leaking air and have found no evidence. I have found, however, a small
slither of silicone in one of the needle jets, that I hope will solve the
problem.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
>
>
> |
> | Hi All,
> | Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
> suggestions please?
> | On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
> descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
> cruise, but on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the
> cruise I aborted the flight and nursed it back home.
> | I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
> throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
> very roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was
no
> change on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it
> was rpm related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change.
> The carbs are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right
> down to 1500 rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the
> problem is related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that
one
> can have a partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid
> range only. As tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when
> descending with closed throttle, I can only assume that the slow running
> mixture adjustment and associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets
> apart from the main needle and slow running jet to consider? Although I
> never have a problem with !
> | starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range
> running only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine
> has done about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb
> parts as a precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat
> with Conrad, but he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so
> presumably my symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should check the
needles
> for wear and the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
> | Many thanks for any help,
> | Regards,
>
> William,
> There are those better qualified than I to comment, but I seem
> to remember a message of midrange misfiring being caused (eventually) by a
> suction leak in the fuel lines - greater effect in cruise/low power, than
at
> high power - and ground idle unaffected.
> FWIW, the difficulty was in finding the leak, as no fuel drips, staining.
> Ferg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Rough running problem |
Hi All,
Just to let you know I received 12 replies to my request for help, most off forum.
The suggestions have been very useful and I have been checking as much as
possible. Most suggestions I found to be OK on my engine, but I found a small
slither of silicone in one of the needle jets, which I hope was the cause.
I will report my findings when I get the chance to test fly and also list the
main suggestions for others.
This highlights one of the important benefits of the Europa Club and this forum.
A problem shared and all that.
Many thanks and best wishes to you all,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk> |
| Subject: | 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Just to rebalance the discussions slightly, I have always believed that
the Rotax 912 has been a very reliable engine in service, and has given
many owners hundreds of hours of virtually trouble free flying. Is this
not so?
Rotax recently 'upped' the TBO time on my engine, for a second time, to
1500 hrs: see - http://www.rotax-owner.com
My only personal criticism is that the installation in the Europa has
insufficient power when the aircraft is fully laden, and this means
extra careful consideration must be given to take-off clearance on warm,
windless days. I'm given to understand that a VP prop goes some way to
ameliorate this deficiency.
I think different arguments may come into play when discussing the
merits of the 912S and 914 variants.
Alan
Europa 'Classic', Rotax 912, 580 hrs.
I've stopped 273 spam messages. You can too!
Get your free, safe spam protection at
http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnetsig/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephan
Cassel
Subject: RE: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
Hi All,
I have read number of messages about Rotax problem round 400 hrs mark or
less.
I not yet decided what engine I will install. Must likely a Rotax 912S.
But I am getting worried about these messages.
I used to have an old Cherokee with an old Lycomming 320, 1400 hrs
Never any problem. I felt very safe flying 30 years old plane.
Question:
Is Rotax a safe Engine? Is it good for 1200-1400 hrs?
I hope so.
Regards,
Stephan Cassel
Builder 556 - Mono
Norway
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Europa
Aircraft
Subject: RE: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
William,
Check your CHT temps. If they are too low, the engine can fowl, even on
unleaded fuel. I had exactly the same problem, however when I got the
engine to run a little hotter, it went away. The roughness didn't show
up
until the engine had about 400 hrs.
Good Luck!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William
Mills
Subject: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
Hi All,
Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
suggestions please?
On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
cruise, but on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the
cruise I aborted the flight and nursed it back home.
I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
very roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there
was no
change on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if
it
was rpm related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no
change.
The carbs are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly
right
down to 1500 rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that
the
problem is related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that
one
can have a partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its
mid
range only. As tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when
descending with closed throttle, I can only assume that the slow running
mixture adjustment and associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets
apart from the main needle and slow running jet to consider? Although I
never have a problem with !
starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range
running
only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine has
done
about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb parts as
a
precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat with
Conrad,
but he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so presumably my
symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should check the needles for wear
and
the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
Many thanks for any help,
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
| Subject: | Wrong Size Wingtips? |
Hi Mike,
I would use Expancel, included in the kit. Much easier to sand.
My approach will (probably) be:
1. After the top skin is glued on, aileron in neutral position
then I will fill up to tip moulding and top skin, using a long squeezer.
2. After cure, take aileron off and build up the leading edge
Let me know if you develop another method.
Regards
Stephan Cassel
Builder #556
Norway
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wrong Size Wingtips?
Thanks Stephan. I guess I'll have to do some "artistic filling" in order to
cut down on the drag that the misalignment would cause. What do you plan to
use
for the filler? I have the Q-Cell stuff, but am not too sure on how to
approach it. I'll have to put some thought in to it.
Good luck.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
> I used to have an old Cherokee with an old Lycomming 320, 1400 hrs
> Never any problem. I felt very safe flying 30 years old plane.
>
> Question:
> Is Rotax a safe Engine? Is it good for 1200-1400 hrs?
>
> I hope so.
>
> Regards,
> Stephan Cassel
A simple check of accident database for the U.S. (NTSB) shows 13
engine failures, 1998-2002. That's out of likely over a thousand in
service in homebuilts and on the Diamond Katana.
One involved builder error in oil line plumbing; one a blocked fuel
filter. One involved disconnection of a throttle cable, another a
binding throttle cable during a go-around. One case not counted here
was a throttle cable too stiff, resulting in down elevator applied
during landing while retarding throttle, a contributing factor to pilot
error. But reference here the cable friction needed due to stiff return
springs.
Nine are undetermined as to cause. One involved a 912 run 700 hours
past 1200 TBO, the only Katana 912 failure in the data, with notably
3,093 airframe hours. Two involved suspected fuel delivery problems;
one possible 912 carb icing; one possible electric prop runaway on a
914. In latter case, the "snitch" software in the TCU's memory is
revealing but inconclusive. Two undetermined because of impact damage
or fire, destroying fuel system plumbing, a possible cause by other
inferences. Two purely undetermined.
In no case were there any reduction drive, ignition, or internal engine
failures. This is significant because, for one popular brand of auto
engine conversion, these causes accounted for 50% of the failures in
this period, also about a dozen total but likely a smaller installed base.
IOW, the Rotax seems a very reliable engine if stuff is fabricated or
installed properly, particularly fuel, oil, and throttle.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
| Subject: | 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Fred! Thanks for your information.
Good news.
Regards,
Stephan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fred
Fillinger
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
> I used to have an old Cherokee with an old Lycomming 320, 1400 hrs
> Never any problem. I felt very safe flying 30 years old plane.
>
> Question:
> Is Rotax a safe Engine? Is it good for 1200-1400 hrs?
>
> I hope so.
>
> Regards,
> Stephan Cassel
A simple check of accident database for the U.S. (NTSB) shows 13
engine failures, 1998-2002. That's out of likely over a thousand in
service in homebuilts and on the Diamond Katana.
One involved builder error in oil line plumbing; one a blocked fuel
filter. One involved disconnection of a throttle cable, another a
binding throttle cable during a go-around. One case not counted here
was a throttle cable too stiff, resulting in down elevator applied
during landing while retarding throttle, a contributing factor to pilot
error. But reference here the cable friction needed due to stiff return
springs.
Nine are undetermined as to cause. One involved a 912 run 700 hours
past 1200 TBO, the only Katana 912 failure in the data, with notably
3,093 airframe hours. Two involved suspected fuel delivery problems;
one possible 912 carb icing; one possible electric prop runaway on a
914. In latter case, the "snitch" software in the TCU's memory is
revealing but inconclusive. Two undetermined because of impact damage
or fire, destroying fuel system plumbing, a possible cause by other
inferences. Two purely undetermined.
In no case were there any reduction drive, ignition, or internal engine
failures. This is significant because, for one popular brand of auto
engine conversion, these causes accounted for 50% of the failures in
this period, also about a dozen total but likely a smaller installed base.
IOW, the Rotax seems a very reliable engine if stuff is fabricated or
installed properly, particularly fuel, oil, and throttle.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wrong Size Wingtips? |
Just what I was thinking. I'll let you know what the results are.
Also, there is another builder with the same problem that is going to OSH in
a week or so. He has been in touch with Andy and others and was told they
would look into it. He is going to try to pin them down when he is there and
hopefully he can get them to come up with a procedure.
I'll let you know.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Europa tire tracks on the garage floor. |
I have reached a mile stone of sorts. The aircraft is now out of its
cradle and sitting on its wheels (2 each) on the garage floor. I guess the
next best milestone is when the wheel comes off of the ground without me
using a jack to get it there.
Muffler question? The exhaust port on the 914 muffler is to have a sleeve
welded to it. The configuration of the muffler exhaust end is such that it
is slotted to give way to an external clamp. I was planning on cutting
this back to solid pipe before installing the supplied sleeve. Have
those who have gone before done this or is an installation of a longer
sleeve necessary for cowling clearance?
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
A143
Mesa, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Cruise Performance |
trigear with 912S and Warp Drive
Hi guys,
Can those of you who have the above configuration, without CS prop or speed
kit, tell me what
cruise performance you are getting ?
According to the handbook this should be 118 k at 5000 rpm and 17 degrees
for the blades.
That seems to be about right, but with more bite from the prop, i.e. 19
degrees ?
Would be grateful for your input (and don't brag about the 914 performance
at 15000 feet).
Cheers, Karl
Sign-up for a FREE BT Broadband connection today!
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Huntington <robertodue2002(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa tire tracks on the garage floor. |
Hi Steve;
You are welcome to come look at the cowling/exhaust clearance on Paul Boulet's
Europa to determine the exhaust situation.
Regards,
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Setting wing incidence |
Greetings all,
I'm about to tackle setting my wing incidence. The manual says to use the
flap template and a digital level. Got that, but it also says the tollerance is
.05 degrees. This seems a bit tough to get considering the method employed. My
template is accurate enough to set the flaps in place, but I don't think I can
achieve the accuracy needed with the given method.
With R/C stuff we use an incidence level that clamps to the LE and TE level
to the cordline. This seems much more effective, but I don't have one big
enough to make it work.
Since it's Oskosh week all the Europa folks are away. Due to a pregnant Lab
who is set to drop puppies any day now I won't be going to Oshkosh this year.
Are there any tricks that those who have come before me can offer?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alexander P. de C. Kaarsberg" <kaarsber(at)terra.com.br> |
| Subject: | Re: Setting wing incidence |
You are quite right, this is the only job the digital level is just not
good enough for, as the leading and trailing edges are so far apart, you
can use a clear water filled tube with a couple of drops of detergent or
the like to reduce surface tension. Have one person hold the tube to the
leading edge and take the other end to the trailing edge, or tape them
up, then make a mark to see it quickly when measuring.
This system can also be used to set the aircraft level and to confirm
that the window sill is ok for reference, it will pick up the tiniest
difference in levels.
Alex Kaarsberg,
Kit 529, waiting for parts...
TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Greetings all,
>
>I'm about to tackle setting my wing incidence. The manual says to use the
>flap template and a digital level. Got that, but it also says the tollerance is
>.05 degrees. This seems a bit tough to get considering the method employed. My
>template is accurate enough to set the flaps in place, but I don't think I can
>achieve the accuracy needed with the given method.
>
>With R/C stuff we use an incidence level that clamps to the LE and TE level
>to the cordline. This seems much more effective, but I don't have one big
>enough to make it work.
>
> Since it's Oskosh week all the Europa folks are away. Due to a pregnant Lab
>who is set to drop puppies any day now I won't be going to Oshkosh this year.
>Are there any tricks that those who have come before me can offer?
>
>Regards,
>
>John Lawton
>Dunlap, TN
>A-245
>
>
>Esta mensagem foi verificada pelo E-mail Protegido Terra.
>Scan engine: VirusScan / Atualizado em 24/07/2003 / Verso: 1.3.13
>Proteja o seu e-mail Terra: http://www.emailprotegido.terra.com.br/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Setting wing incidence |
Someone at the factory failed trigonometry. If you use the inch unit
measurements in the Tri-Gear Manual on page 27-2, 30 July 1999, Issue 2
(.0872 inch over 50 inch chord) and do the trig correctly you will find that
the tolerance is actually 0.1 degrees (from arctan 0.0872/50 = 0.09992).
Note also that the manual tells you to drill through the fuselage sides to
accommodate the forward lift pins. Not being inclined to allow water to
flow into the cockpit I declined to do this and found that there is no need
to do it either, although it is certainly possible that others may have had
to do so to provide clearance.
Worse yet, had I followed the earlier instructions about bonding the aft
lift pins into the wing root I would have been unable to complete this step
because I found that the pip pin holes in the lift pins would have failed to
align with the holes in the W26 root pin sockets (the pins in my kit were
too long).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence
Greetings all,
I'm about to tackle setting my wing incidence. The manual says to use the
flap template and a digital level. Got that, but it also says the tollerance
is
.05 degrees. This seems a bit tough to get considering the method employed.
My
template is accurate enough to set the flaps in place, but I don't think I
can
achieve the accuracy needed with the given method.
With R/C stuff we use an incidence level that clamps to the LE and TE level
to the cordline. This seems much more effective, but I don't have one big
enough to make it work.
Since it's Oskosh week all the Europa folks are away. Due to a pregnant Lab
who is set to drop puppies any day now I won't be going to Oshkosh this
year.
Are there any tricks that those who have come before me can offer?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Setting wing incidence |
You're right. The manual was corrected to read 1.1mm (0.044") many moons ago.
Regards
A
>>> "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com> 07/28/03 04:45pm >>>
Someone at the factory failed trigonometry. If you use the inch unit
measurements in the Tri-Gear Manual on page 27-2, 30 July 1999, Issue 2
(.0872 inch over 50 inch chord) and do the trig correctly you will find that
the tolerance is actually 0.1 degrees (from arctan 0.0872/50 = 0.09992).
Note also that the manual tells you to drill through the fuselage sides to
accommodate the forward lift pins. Not being inclined to allow water to
flow into the cockpit I declined to do this and found that there is no need
to do it either, although it is certainly possible that others may have had
to do so to provide clearance.
Worse yet, had I followed the earlier instructions about bonding the aft
lift pins into the wing root I would have been unable to complete this step
because I found that the pip pin holes in the lift pins would have failed to
align with the holes in the W26 root pin sockets (the pins in my kit were
too long).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence
Greetings all,
I'm about to tackle setting my wing incidence. The manual says to use the
flap template and a digital level. Got that, but it also says the tollerance
is
.05 degrees. This seems a bit tough to get considering the method employed.
My
template is accurate enough to set the flaps in place, but I don't think I
can
achieve the accuracy needed with the given method.
With R/C stuff we use an incidence level that clamps to the LE and TE level
to the cordline. This seems much more effective, but I don't have one big
enough to make it work.
Since it's Oskosh week all the Europa folks are away. Due to a pregnant Lab
who is set to drop puppies any day now I won't be going to Oshkosh this
year.
Are there any tricks that those who have come before me can offer?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
This largely is true of the Rotax 2-strokes too; i.e. it is the INSTALLATION
that causes failures (and in their case lack of proper maintenance too).
It's not normally the engine per se that is the root cause of the failure.
There are various installation check lists available (not least in the
official installation manual itself) that can aid in getting it right. Plus
common sense.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Fillinger" <fillinger(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
> > I used to have an old Cherokee with an old Lycomming 320, 1400 hrs
> > Never any problem. I felt very safe flying 30 years old plane.
> >
> > Question:
> > Is Rotax a safe Engine? Is it good for 1200-1400 hrs?
> >
> > I hope so.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Stephan Cassel
>
> A simple check of accident database for the U.S. (NTSB) shows 13
> engine failures, 1998-2002. That's out of likely over a thousand in
> service in homebuilts and on the Diamond Katana.
>
> One involved builder error in oil line plumbing; one a blocked fuel
> filter. One involved disconnection of a throttle cable, another a
> binding throttle cable during a go-around. One case not counted here
> was a throttle cable too stiff, resulting in down elevator applied
> during landing while retarding throttle, a contributing factor to pilot
> error. But reference here the cable friction needed due to stiff return
> springs.
>
> Nine are undetermined as to cause. One involved a 912 run 700 hours
> past 1200 TBO, the only Katana 912 failure in the data, with notably
> 3,093 airframe hours. Two involved suspected fuel delivery problems;
> one possible 912 carb icing; one possible electric prop runaway on a
> 914. In latter case, the "snitch" software in the TCU's memory is
> revealing but inconclusive. Two undetermined because of impact damage
> or fire, destroying fuel system plumbing, a possible cause by other
> inferences. Two purely undetermined.
>
> In no case were there any reduction drive, ignition, or internal engine
> failures. This is significant because, for one popular brand of auto
> engine conversion, these causes accounted for 50% of the failures in
> this period, also about a dozen total but likely a smaller installed base.
>
> IOW, the Rotax seems a very reliable engine if stuff is fabricated or
> installed properly, particularly fuel, oil, and throttle.
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Hi William,
I know this has been beaten to death already, but I feel one more comment
is in order.
At high throttle settings (open throttle) a difference in the carb sync (cable
adjustment) will hardly be noticed, as small changes in throttle setting have
very minor effect in power.
At idle, a) the throttle position is set by idle stops, irrespective of the cable
position, so an out of sync condition (cables not adjusted for identical carb
throttle position) would not be very noticeable. Also, b) the carb balance
tube keeps the two sides fairly well synched up to over 2000 rpm, even if the
cable sync is not particularly good.
So, if the cables are out of sync, you will notice it most in the mid-range,
not at idle or high throttle settings.
regards,
Terry Seaver
William Mills wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with suggestions
please?
> On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when descending
with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in cruise, but on
my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the cruise I aborted the flight
and nursed it back home.
> I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full throttle,
it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran very roughly.
I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no change on either
mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it was rpm related,
but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change. The carbs are well
balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right down to 1500 rpm.
The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the problem is related to
carburation, but find it difficult to believe that one can have a partial blockage,
or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid range only. As tickover is
smooth and roughness stops in flight when descending with closed throttle, I
can only assume that the slow running mixture adjustment and associated jet are
OK. Are there any other jets apart from the main needle and slow running jet
to consider? Although I never have a problem with !
> starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range running only?
Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine has done about
480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb parts as a precaution
/ planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat with Conrad, but he was
unable to put his finger on the problem, so presumably my symptoms are unusual.
He suggested I should check the needles for wear and the carb rubber mounts
/ sleeves for splits, which I will.
> Many thanks for any help,
> Regards,
> William
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Setting wing incidence |
John,
I suggest you call Andy at the Factory. This year Andy did Sun 'n' Fun and
Neville is doing Oshkosh, which is a huge help to those of us building
through the summer.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence
Greetings all,
I'm about to tackle setting my wing incidence. The manual says to use the
flap template and a digital level. Got that, but it also says the tollerance
is
.05 degrees. This seems a bit tough to get considering the method employed.
My
template is accurate enough to set the flaps in place, but I don't think I
can
achieve the accuracy needed with the given method.
With R/C stuff we use an incidence level that clamps to the LE and TE level
to the cordline. This seems much more effective, but I don't have one big
enough to make it work.
Since it's Oskosh week all the Europa folks are away. Due to a pregnant Lab
who is set to drop puppies any day now I won't be going to Oshkosh this
year.
Are there any tricks that those who have come before me can offer?
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Setting wing incidence |
Hi John;
Use the digital level, and the template, and set one wing as close as possible.
The critical part is to get the other wing to match the first side's incidence.
If
the incidence is different on the two wings, then when you start flying you may
have a "heavy wing" depending on how great the difference is.
The installation of a aileron trim tab in the build process will allow you to make
small adjustments in flight to compensate for the "heavy wing or additional
passenger".
Jim Brown
N398JB
TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Greetings all,
>
> I'm about to tackle setting my wing incidence. The manual says to use the
> flap template and a digital level. Got that, but it also says the tollerance
is
> .05 degrees. This seems a bit tough to get considering the method employed. My
> template is accurate enough to set the flaps in place, but I don't think I can
> achieve the accuracy needed with the given method.
>
> With R/C stuff we use an incidence level that clamps to the LE and TE level
> to the cordline. This seems much more effective, but I don't have one big
> enough to make it work.
>
> Since it's Oskosh week all the Europa folks are away. Due to a pregnant Lab
> who is set to drop puppies any day now I won't be going to Oshkosh this year.
> Are there any tricks that those who have come before me can offer?
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
All
I just read Terry's reply to this and wanted to make an observation. I am
haven't concerns in the carb balance thing at this time.
When the throttles are closed, the stop screws and the cables should both
come to rest at the same spot. Please do not allow the carb stops to stop
the cables. This will cause the cable to get out of adjustments. (personal
knowledge) All other facts and opinions of Terry's I agree with hole
heartedly.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote" FLYING
> At idle, a) the throttle position is set by idle stops, irrespective of
the cable position, so an out of sync condition (cables not adjusted for
identical carb throttle position) would not be very noticeable. Also, b) the
carb balance tube keeps the two sides fairly well synched up to over 2000
rpm, even if the cable sync is not particularly good.
> So, if the cables are out of sync, you will notice it most in the
mid-range, not at idle or high throttle settings.
>
> regards,
> Terry Seaver
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help |
Hi Terry,
Thanks for your suggestions. The actual symptom was misfiring and not the
vibration due to out of balance carbs. I use the two vacuum gauge method
for balancing and find it works extremely well.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Seaver" <terrys(at)cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912 Engine Problem - Request for help
>
> Hi William,
>
> I know this has been beaten to death already, but I feel one more
comment is in order.
> At high throttle settings (open throttle) a difference in the carb sync
(cable adjustment) will hardly be noticed, as small changes in throttle
setting have very minor effect in power.
> At idle, a) the throttle position is set by idle stops, irrespective of
the cable position, so an out of sync condition (cables not adjusted for
identical carb throttle position) would not be very noticeable. Also, b) the
carb balance tube keeps the two sides fairly well synched up to over 2000
rpm, even if the cable sync is not particularly good.
> So, if the cables are out of sync, you will notice it most in the
mid-range, not at idle or high throttle settings.
>
> regards,
> Terry Seaver
>
> William Mills wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi All,
> > Has anyone experienced a similar problem and can anyone help with
suggestions please?
> > On recent flights I have experienced some irregular misfiring when
descending with about quarter throttle and also the occasional hiccup in
cruise, but on my last flight the engine was running so roughly in the
cruise I aborted the flight and nursed it back home.
> > I carried out some tests on the way back. It ran very smoothly on full
throttle, it ran very smoothly on closed throttle, but in between it ran
very roughly. I checked the ignition when running roughly, but there was no
change on either mag. I tried coarsening and fining the prop to see if it
was rpm related, but it wasn't. I changed to reserve tank, but no change.
The carbs are well balanced at tickover and the engine runs smoothly right
down to 1500 rpm. The fuel filters are clean. I can only assume that the
problem is related to carburation, but find it difficult to believe that one
can have a partial blockage, or too much fuel with a needle jet in its mid
range only. As tickover is smooth and roughness stops in flight when
descending with closed throttle, I can only assume that the slow running
mixture adjustment and associated jet are OK. Are there any other jets
apart from the main needle and slow running jet to consider? Although I
never have a problem wit!
> h !
> > starting, can a problem with the starting carb affect the mid range
running only? Can a faulty float valve affect mid range only? My engine
has done about 480 hrs, should I be considering renewing any of the carb
parts as a precaution / planned maintenance etc? I have had a brief chat
with Conrad, but he was unable to put his finger on the problem, so
presumably my symptoms are unusual. He suggested I should check the needles
for wear and the carb rubber mounts / sleeves for splits, which I will.
> > Many thanks for any help,
> > Regards,
> > William
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
Another finishing question. Whats the best thing to do with shaping trailing edges
(ailerons, flaps etc) - squared off or rounded. I'm wondering if paint will
stick better to a rounded trailing edge. Any thoughts?
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Europa: coast to Coast |
| From: | Christine and Peter Timm <cptimm(at)telus.net> |
For Europa builders in Canada.
We will be flying our Classic Europa (Rotax 912S with Airmaster VP prop.)
across Canada next month.
Our goal is to leave B.C. Vancouver area around the 19th August to arrive in
Brampton in time for their Fly In on Aug. 24. We expect to be based in
Brampton a few days prior, weather permitting. Then we head east with a
goal of being at the Stanley, Nova Scotia Fly In for Labour Day, Sept. 1.
Hope we shall see some of you there.
However, it occurred to us some builders on our route may be interested to
meet and compare notes. If you are, please reply to our personal e-mail:
cptimm(at)telus.net
subject: Europa Coast to Coast
(this will put your mail into our Europa folder where we can be sure it's
not spam)
and we will try to include your airport as one of our stops.
--
Cheers,
Peter and Christine Timm
C-GIET
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aileron Link Rod |
Greeting to all,
I just made up my first aileron link rod. But when I went to attach it to the
aileron it didn't fit. The MW4 Rod End ID is .250 but the FL13 Spacer OD is
.315. So I figure it goes on the bolt itself up aginst the ER001, then the
spacer, washer, and nut. But there's not enough room on the bolt to handle all
this. What did I do wrong? Bolt seated too deep?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Link Rod |
Mike,
FL13 is used in the outboard flap hinge, not the aileron. The link rod
attachment to the aileron has no FL13 - see Fig 5 on page 9-3. Just use two
EUR001s and one MS21042-4.
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Aileron Link Rod
Greeting to all,
I just made up my first aileron link rod. But when I went to attach it to
the
aileron it didn't fit. The MW4 Rod End ID is .250 but the FL13 Spacer OD is
.315. So I figure it goes on the bolt itself up aginst the ER001, then the
spacer, washer, and nut. But there's not enough room on the bolt to handle
all
this. What did I do wrong? Bolt seated too deep?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Link Rod |
Hi Jeremy,
Fig.5 on 9-3 refers to mounting the aileron link rod to the bellcrank.
I looked at Fig. 11 on 7-6. This is the bolt embedded with the A2 plate in
the inboard end of the aileron that the aileron link rod attaches to. That's
where they use an FL13. I've got the ones in the outboard flap hinge.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Link Rod |
Hi Mike
The Spacer FL13 (seen on page 7-6) is only used to make the EUR001 tight
against the
lay-up. FL13 is removed after curing and used later for the outrigger
assembly.
All push rod connections and the aileron mounting use same techniques:
1 x AN4-10A + 2 x EUR001 + 1 x MS21042-4
But you are building a trigear so I am not sure if you need the FL13
anymore.
Keep it some where, you never know...
Regards
Stephan
Builder 556
Norway
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Aileron Link Rod
Hi Jeremy,
Fig.5 on 9-3 refers to mounting the aileron link rod to the bellcrank.
I looked at Fig. 11 on 7-6. This is the bolt embedded with the A2 plate in
the inboard end of the aileron that the aileron link rod attaches to. That's
where they use an FL13. I've got the ones in the outboard flap hinge.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Link Rod |
Thanks Stephan,
Now that makes sense. It didn't even cross my mind. I'll pull the FL13's off
the Aileron connectors.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <jeremycrdavey(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Link Rod |
Mike,
The FL13 in that instance is only used to allow the nut to lightly press the
washer down - it cannot be screwed down the plain shank to put pressure on
the washer.
The text next to 9-3 makes it clear that the basic fit is the same at both
ends of the link-rod. More to the point, every Europa I've ever seen
including the factory ones is done this way!
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Aileron Link Rod
Hi Jeremy,
Fig.5 on 9-3 refers to mounting the aileron link rod to the bellcrank.
I looked at Fig. 11 on 7-6. This is the bolt embedded with the A2 plate in
the inboard end of the aileron that the aileron link rod attaches to. That's
where they use an FL13. I've got the ones in the outboard flap hinge.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Link Rod |
Thanks guys,
That little bit of guidance got me off on the right path. All is going well
now. Except it's 118'F (48'C) outside the workshop.
'Til next time!
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Setting wing incidence |
Are these pictures of my wing/flap any help to what you are after. If so, they
are easy to make using the wing root as a template. Just for inspiration.}
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
>
>
>John,
>
>I suggest you call Andy at the Factory. This year Andy did Sun 'n' Fun and
>Neville is doing Oshkosh, which is a huge help to those of us building
>through the summer.
>
>Regards,
>Jeremy
>
>Jeremy Davey
>
>Europa XS Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
>To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Europa-List: Setting wing incidence
>
>
>Greetings all,
>
>I'm about to tackle setting my wing incidence. The manual says to use the
>flap template and a digital level. Got that, but it also says the tollerance
>is
>.05 degrees. This seems a bit tough to get considering the method employed.
>My
>template is accurate enough to set the flaps in place, but I don't think I
>can
>achieve the accuracy needed with the given method.
>
>With R/C stuff we use an incidence level that clamps to the LE and TE level
>to the cordline. This seems much more effective, but I don't have one big
>enough to make it work.
>
> Since it's Oskosh week all the Europa folks are away. Due to a pregnant Lab
>
>who is set to drop puppies any day now I won't be going to Oshkosh this
>year.
>Are there any tricks that those who have come before me can offer?
>
>Regards,
>
>John Lawton
>Dunlap, TN
>A-245
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trailing edges |
paul stewart wrote:
>
> Another finishing question. Whats the best thing to do with shaping
> trailing edges (ailerons, flaps etc) - squared off or rounded.
>
> I'm wondering if paint will stick better to a rounded trailing
> edge. Any thoughts?
It's not just paint adhesion, but applied paint just will not build up
at a sharp corner. Make 'em round.
There are good aerodynamic effects to a blunt trailing edge, but not at
the edge thickness here, but rather around 5% of chord - 7/16" thick for
the aileron.
Any improvement in a control surface's lift coefficient isn't
necessarily desirable either. Many years ago there was temporarily an
Airworthiness Directive on my other plane, where the beveled edge of the
aileron had to be chopped off blunt to about 3/4" thickness. To cure,
they said, an odd phenomenon where a couple planes of several thousand
experienced a slight low-period oscillation - several seconds per cycle
- only in heavy rain. When word spread as to the horrid effect on
control feel, the FAA in rare form backed down on the directive. Owners
were on the verge of surrounding FAA HQ in Washington with pitchforks
and burning torches!
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Europa: coast to Coast |
| From: | Christine and Peter Timm <cptimm(at)telus.net> |
For Europa builders in Canada.
We will be flying our Classic Europa (Rotax 912S with Airmaster VP prop.)
across Canada next month.
Our goal is to leave B.C. Vancouver area around the 19th August to arrive in
Brampton in time for their Fly In on Aug. 24. We expect to be based in
Brampton a few days prior, weather permitting. Then we head east with a
goal of being at the Stanley, Nova Scotia Fly In for Labour Day, Sept. 1.
Hope we shall see some of you there.
However, it occurred to us some builders on our route may be interested to
meet and compare notes. If you are, please reply to our personal e-mail:
cptimm(at)telus.net
subject: Europa Coast to Coast
(this will put your mail into our Europa folder where we can be sure it's
not spam)
and we will try to include your airport as one of our stops.
--
Cheers,
Peter and Christine Timm
C-GIET
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fin appears to be twisted |
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
Heres a question I would welcome more than one response to. While standing
behind my Europa about 10 feet, sighting in and centering the top of the fin
to the space between the doors in the top of the fuselage, I have noticed
that just the top front of the fin appears to be 1 to 2 degrees towards
port. Keeping in mind the fin is completed and the rudder is temporarily
mounted. The sternpost and rudder are perfectly straight. Since I dont have
an engine mounted yet and its a tri gear you can notice it more with the
tail down. Could any of you look at yours to see if I am the only one with
this phenomenon? This may be a blessing in climb out but a big cruse
problem, or maybe a designed in the fin. Or maybe I did something wrong but
I cant imagine what, as the top went on without any problems.
Thanks in advance to any one that can check their plane,
Jeff Roberts
Tri A258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles???? |
Gidday,
I am in the process of sorting out some turnbuckles and would like to know
for the cable thimbles if I need cable eyes or pin eyes? The difference is
the internal curve on the cable eye, which I would think more ideal for
distributing forces onto the turnbuckle. I am setting up the tailplane mass
balance weight with a pair, and intend on having the turnbuckles forward
spliced in with nicopress, and nicopress alone at the aft end. Similarly I
will be using the same turnbuckles, the MS Clip-Lock Variety for my rudder
setup.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles???? |
Hi Tony, I believe cable eyes are what you are supposed to use for cable
thimbles. I used AN bolts to attach the turnbuckle to the mass balance arm,
then cables attached with thimbles to the rear. I suppose I should have used
pin eyes for the forward bolted end of the turnbuckle, but I used cable
eyes.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles????
Gidday,
I am in the process of sorting out some turnbuckles and would like to know
for the cable thimbles if I need cable eyes or pin eyes? The difference is
the internal curve on the cable eye, which I would think more ideal for
distributing forces onto the turnbuckle. I am setting up the tailplane mass
balance weight with a pair, and intend on having the turnbuckles forward
spliced in with nicopress, and nicopress alone at the aft end. Similarly I
will be using the same turnbuckles, the MS Clip-Lock Variety for my rudder
setup.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fin appears to be twisted |
Mine is like that, and proper Europa did that -- it cancels out
propeller P-effect which exists in cruise also. Without the twist,
deflected rudder, plus a deflected trim tab to keep it there, would be
needed, which would be draggier. They say airplanes are a bunch of
design compromises flying in loose formation...one example of many.
Best,
Fred F.
> Heres a question I would welcome more than one response to. While standing
> behind my Europa about 10 feet, sighting in and centering the top of the fin
> to the space between the doors in the top of the fuselage, I have noticed
> that just the top front of the fin appears to be 1 to 2 degrees towards
> port. Keeping in mind the fin is completed and the rudder is temporarily
> mounted. The sternpost and rudder are perfectly straight. Since I dont have
> an engine mounted yet and its a tri gear you can notice it more with the
> tail down. Could any of you look at yours to see if I am the only one with
> this phenomenon? This may be a blessing in climb out but a big cruse
> problem, or maybe a designed in the fin. Or maybe I did something wrong but
> I cant imagine what, as the top went on without any problems.
>
> Thanks in advance to any one that can check their plane,
>
> Jeff Roberts
> Tri A258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fin appears to be twisted |
Jeff,
Yep, mine is worse than 1-2degs - it flies really fine - press on!!
regards,
Mike Parkin G-JULZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Fin appears to be twisted
>
> Heres a question I would welcome more than one response to. While standing
> behind my Europa about 10 feet, sighting in and centering the top of the
fin
> to the space between the doors in the top of the fuselage, I have noticed
> that just the top front of the fin appears to be 1 to 2 degrees towards
> port. Keeping in mind the fin is completed and the rudder is temporarily
> mounted. The sternpost and rudder are perfectly straight. Since I dont
have
> an engine mounted yet and its a tri gear you can notice it more with the
> tail down. Could any of you look at yours to see if I am the only one with
> this phenomenon? This may be a blessing in climb out but a big cruse
> problem, or maybe a designed in the fin. Or maybe I did something wrong
but
> I cant imagine what, as the top went on without any problems.
>
> Thanks in advance to any one that can check their plane,
>
>
> Jeff Roberts
> Tri A258
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting the 914 |
I was all ready to have an engine mounting party this weekend and have
found a discrepancy. The manual and the accompanying illustration call for
An5-40 bolts to mount the engine to landing gear frame. No bolts to be
found. However there was no listing on any bill of materials for these
either. Have others had to buy these as extra hardware? So I guess its a
call to AC Spruce. The verbage in the manual calls for - 41 bolts, however
the diagram in the manual calls for -40's. Which gives a better fitup?
Input would be greatly appreciated.
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
A143
Mesa,Az
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting the 914 |
I was all ready to have an engine mounting party this weekend and have
found a discrepancy. The manual and the accompanying illustration call for
An5-40 bolts to mount the engine to landing gear frame. No bolts to be
found. However there was no listing on any bill of materials for these
either. Have others had to buy these as extra hardware? So I guess its a
call to AC Spruce. The verbage in the manual calls for - 41 bolts, however
the diagram in the manual calls for -40's. Which gives a better fitup?
Input would be greatly appreciated.
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
A143
Mesa,Az
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting the 914 |
Steve
I thing I used 42 bolts. They were in the kit. I had the engine on and off
a couple times and on the final install used new bolts.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote" FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Mounting the 914 |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hagar
Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the 914
I was all ready to have an engine mounting party this weekend and have found
a discrepancy. The manual and the accompanying illustration call for An5-40
bolts to mount the engine to landing gear frame. No bolts to be found.
However there was no listing on any bill of materials for these either.
Have others had to buy these as extra hardware? So I guess its a call to AC
Spruce. The verbage in the manual calls for - 41 bolts, however the diagram
in the manual calls for -40's. Which gives a better fitup?
Input would be greatly appreciated.
Measure your MT03 spacers. If they are 42mm then you need AN5-40's. If you
have the newer MT03's that are 46mm long then you need AN5-41's (note no A).
Factory newsletters 28 & 29 refer.
Simon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Trim Damper Friction |
Gidday,
Yesterday I made up the Trim Damper Assembly and much to my surprise the
friction is amazingly high. I needed to use a fair bit of muscle to move
it, maybe 30-40 kg of pressure at a guess. I have heard it is to provide
about 4-6 kg of drag, but I haven't had this substantiated yet. The TS04A
bolt, the one with the smaller longer M5 X 50 going up its middle, has to
be cut to 28 mm from underneath the head. I didn't doubt this dimension,
silly me, and cut it, only to find that when I tighten the M10 Nylock
enough to engage the nylon, it is too tight. My first fix was to remove 2-3
mm of the thickness of the M10, as it is a very deep nut, but this wasn't
enough. I am now removing the paint on the friction surfaces that the
teflon washers slide on in the hope this will relieve some more drag.
Beyond that a mate removed some of the length of the spring, but I notice
each end of my spring is flattened, and I wouldn't know how to deform the
end of the spring to get it to be the same. Any fixes out there, or should
I get onto Europa and get another TS04A, and not cut it till I have the
Nylock on and determine my own length for the ideal friction?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Austin" <austins(at)zip.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/03/03 |
Tony,
I had the same problem, on enquiry the factory admitted the M5x50 was too
short and I replaced it with a M5x60, this allows plenty for the nylox nut
to bite. And correct friction achieved.
Regards
Peter.
Living life behind a sanding mask
>
> Gidday,
> Yesterday I made up the Trim Damper Assembly and much to my surprise the
> friction is amazingly high. I needed to use a fair bit of muscle to move
> it, maybe 30-40 kg of pressure at a guess. I have heard it is to provide
> about 4-6 kg of drag, but I haven't had this substantiated yet. The TS04A
> bolt, the one with the smaller longer M5 X 50 going up its middle, has to
> be cut to 28 mm from underneath the head. I didn't doubt this dimension,
> silly me, and cut it, only to find that when I tighten the M10 Nylock
> enough to engage the nylon, it is too tight. My first fix was to remove
2-3
> mm of the thickness of the M10, as it is a very deep nut, but this wasn't
> enough. I am now removing the paint on the friction surfaces that the
> teflon washers slide on in the hope this will relieve some more drag.
> Beyond that a mate removed some of the length of the spring, but I notice
> each end of my spring is flattened, and I wouldn't know how to deform the
> end of the spring to get it to be the same. Any fixes out there, or should
> I get onto Europa and get another TS04A, and not cut it till I have the
> Nylock on and determine my own length for the ideal friction?
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Nigel and Cathy
Many Thanks for organising such a great Day on Saturday at Lydeway Strip and
the visiting Europa's who managed to grab a 'slot' at this limited event.
A combination of Nigel and Cathy's Family, Europa's (Funny lot!!!) and most
of the Villagers sounds like hell. It worked incredibly well with all the
Villages now very happy about the flights they received after an excellent
Barbeque but also the presence of Aircraft in the vicinity of their Village.
An object lesson in dealing with objections to local Airstrips.
Kind Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 08/01/03 |
I called the factory when I found I was short of engine parts and they sent
me what was missing. It depends on when you got your engine from the factory
as to how the error happened.
Steve Pitt #403
----- Original Message -----
From: "Europa-List Digest Server" <europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Europa-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 08/01/03
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete Europa-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the Europa-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list/Digest.Europa-List.2003-08-01.ht
ml
>
> Text Version:
>
>
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t
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> Europa-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri 08/01/03: 6
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 02:41 AM - Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles???? (Tony Renshaw)
> 2. 05:56 AM - Re: Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles???? (Kevin
Klinefelter)
> 3. 07:34 AM - Re: Fin appears to be twisted (Fred Fillinger)
> 4. 12:55 PM - Re: Fin appears to be twisted (Michael Parkin)
> 5. 08:14 PM - Mounting the 914 (Steve Hagar)
> 6. 08:14 PM - Mounting the 914 (Steve Hagar)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
> Subject: Europa-List: Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles????
>
>
> Gidday,
> I am in the process of sorting out some turnbuckles and would like to know
> for the cable thimbles if I need cable eyes or pin eyes? The difference is
> the internal curve on the cable eye, which I would think more ideal for
> distributing forces onto the turnbuckle. I am setting up the tailplane
mass
> balance weight with a pair, and intend on having the turnbuckles forward
> spliced in with nicopress, and nicopress alone at the aft end. Similarly I
> will be using the same turnbuckles, the MS Clip-Lock Variety for my rudder
> setup.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net>
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles????
>
>
> Hi Tony, I believe cable eyes are what you are supposed to use for cable
> thimbles. I used AN bolts to attach the turnbuckle to the mass balance
arm,
> then cables attached with thimbles to the rear. I suppose I should have
used
> pin eyes for the forward bolted end of the turnbuckle, but I used cable
> eyes.
> Kevin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
> Subject: Europa-List: Pin or Cable Eyes for Thimbles????
>
>
>
> Gidday,
> I am in the process of sorting out some turnbuckles and would like to know
> for the cable thimbles if I need cable eyes or pin eyes? The difference is
> the internal curve on the cable eye, which I would think more ideal for
> distributing forces onto the turnbuckle. I am setting up the tailplane
mass
> balance weight with a pair, and intend on having the turnbuckles forward
> spliced in with nicopress, and nicopress alone at the aft end. Similarly I
> will be using the same turnbuckles, the MS Clip-Lock Variety for my rudder
> setup.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fin appears to be twisted
>
>
> Mine is like that, and proper Europa did that -- it cancels out
> propeller P-effect which exists in cruise also. Without the twist,
> deflected rudder, plus a deflected trim tab to keep it there, would be
> needed, which would be draggier. They say airplanes are a bunch of
> design compromises flying in loose formation...one example of many.
>
> Best,
> Fred F.
>
> > Heres a question I would welcome more than one response to. While
standing
> > behind my Europa about 10 feet, sighting in and centering the top of the
fin
> > to the space between the doors in the top of the fuselage, I have
noticed
> > that just the top front of the fin appears to be 1 to 2 degrees towards
> > port. Keeping in mind the fin is completed and the rudder is temporarily
> > mounted. The sternpost and rudder are perfectly straight. Since I dont
have
> > an engine mounted yet and its a tri gear you can notice it more with the
> > tail down. Could any of you look at yours to see if I am the only one
with
> > this phenomenon? This may be a blessing in climb out but a big cruse
> > problem, or maybe a designed in the fin. Or maybe I did something wrong
but
> > I cant imagine what, as the top went on without any problems.
> >
> > Thanks in advance to any one that can check their plane,
> >
> > Jeff Roberts
> > Tri A258
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Michael Parkin" <Mikenjulie.Parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fin appears to be twisted
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Yep, mine is worse than 1-2degs - it flies really fine - press on!!
>
> regards,
>
> Mike Parkin G-JULZ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> Subject: Europa-List: Fin appears to be twisted
>
>
> >
> > Heres a question I would welcome more than one response to. While
standing
> > behind my Europa about 10 feet, sighting in and centering the top of the
> fin
> > to the space between the doors in the top of the fuselage, I have
noticed
> > that just the top front of the fin appears to be 1 to 2 degrees towards
> > port. Keeping in mind the fin is completed and the rudder is temporarily
> > mounted. The sternpost and rudder are perfectly straight. Since I dont
> have
> > an engine mounted yet and its a tri gear you can notice it more with the
> > tail down. Could any of you look at yours to see if I am the only one
with
> > this phenomenon? This may be a blessing in climb out but a big cruse
> > problem, or maybe a designed in the fin. Or maybe I did something wrong
> but
> > I cant imagine what, as the top went on without any problems.
> >
> > Thanks in advance to any one that can check their plane,
> >
> >
> > Jeff Roberts
> > Tri A258
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the 914
>
>
> I was all ready to have an engine mounting party this weekend and have
> found a discrepancy. The manual and the accompanying illustration call for
> An5-40 bolts to mount the engine to landing gear frame. No bolts to be
> found. However there was no listing on any bill of materials for these
> either. Have others had to buy these as extra hardware? So I guess its a
> call to AC Spruce. The verbage in the manual calls for - 41 bolts,
however
> the diagram in the manual calls for -40's. Which gives a better fitup?
> Input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> --- Steve Hagar
> --- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
> A143
> Mesa,Az
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the 914
>
>
> I was all ready to have an engine mounting party this weekend and have
> found a discrepancy. The manual and the accompanying illustration call for
> An5-40 bolts to mount the engine to landing gear frame. No bolts to be
> found. However there was no listing on any bill of materials for these
> either. Have others had to buy these as extra hardware? So I guess its a
> call to AC Spruce. The verbage in the manual calls for - 41 bolts,
however
> the diagram in the manual calls for -40's. Which gives a better fitup?
> Input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> --- Steve Hagar
> --- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
> A143
> Mesa,Az
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Cowling NACA Inlet |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Hi!
Any chance someone has a digital photo and some rough dimensions for the Top
Cowling NACA Vent that feeds the Plenum Chamber. I'm using non XS Cowlings
for my Rotax and dont have the 'scribed' shape to work with.
Thanks
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912 Rough Running |
Hi All,
I flew yesterday for the first time since investigating the rough running at mid
throttle settings on my 912, 80 hp Rotax, with Arplast / Mark Burton constant
speed prop.
I said I would report the results, the suggestions I received from the forum and
the action I took as a result.
I am pleased to say I had three flights totalling 2hr 35 mins without a single
hiccup.
The suggestions I received from the forum and the action I took as a result:
1) Re new the spark plugs and check the HT leads for break-down...............My
plugs were 130hrs since last renewal, so I replaced them. The HT leads are
the original ones (c.1995) so I cleaned them (one was a bit oily) and will replace
them if the problem returns.
2) Clean all the jets in the carbs.............I stripped the carbs completely,
washed with acetone and blew all cavities and jets with compressed air. I
found a small slither of silicone in one of the needle jets.
3) Check for air leaks.................I cleaned and inspected the rubber carb
mounts and found to be OK, I checked the plastic tubes from the float chambers
to the air intake plennums which were OK, I inspected the balance tube connections
which were OK, but I found the MAP (manifold air press) pipe which was
rubber, had perished at the take-off nipple, so I replaced the pipe with a plastic
one.
4) Check that the jets and needles are properly located................My jets
were all screwed in tightly, but both "O" rings on the starting carb jets were
broken, so I replaced them. Both needles were located on the second notch
from the top. Is this the correct position - has anyone else checked theirs?
5) Try raising the needles by one notch. This solved a similar problem on a 914...............I
appreciate the philosophy and I will try this if the problem
returns.
6) Check for splits in the fuel lines..................Mine appear to be OK.
7) Check for splits in the diaphragms.................Mine appear to be in good
condition.
8) Check for low CHTs.......................My coolant temperatures have been
running at between 85 and 100*C
9) Check for carb icing.......................My carb temps were over 20*C when
I had the problem.
10) Monitor EGTs on all four cylinders, because readings would indicate whether
the mixture was too lean or too rich..........................I agree and I
would like to monitor EGTs on at least both rear cylinders, but I don't have
any at present.
11) Make sure that the carbs are properly balanced...................I balance
mine regularly with a pair of vacuum gauges.
My problem could have been caused by one or more of: the slither of silicone, the
MAP air leak, the broken "O" rings, or the 130 hr plugs (although I normally
replace spark plugs @ 150 hrs as recommended). Time will tell, no doubt, if
the problem returns.
I hope my experience might be helpful to anyone with a similar problem, or for
planned maintenance purposes.
Once again, many thanks to all those who offered their suggestions.
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets |
Good morning all,
I hope everybody's build is going well. As for those flying, go ahead and
enjoy, don't worry about me. (sniff) :-)
I have a quick question. I'm at the point of bonding the S01 spar bushs into
the cockpit module and the Spar Sockets to the spar and cockpit module.
The manual has me open up one of the 1/2" holes of the port spar socket to 1"
in order to fit around the raised area of the S01 bush when bonded in place.
But it doesn't say anything about repeating this procedure to the other Spar
Socket that gets bonded to the port Spar. Is the second spar socket bonded with
a Araldite/Flox pad underneath it?
Thanks for the input in advance.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet |
There should be a splash mold available to do that. The one I borrowed is
for an XS; perhaps someone else has a mould for the Classic surplus to
requirement?
DuncanMcF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet
>
> Hi!
>
> Any chance someone has a digital photo and some rough dimensions for the
Top
> Cowling NACA Vent that feeds the Plenum Chamber. I'm using non XS Cowlings
> for my Rotax and dont have the 'scribed' shape to work with.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gerry
>
> Gerry Holland
> Europa 384
> G-FIZY
> +44 7808 402404
> gnholland(at)onetel.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Duncan Hi! and Thanks for reply.
>
> There should be a splash mold available to do that. The one I borrowed is
> for an XS; perhaps someone else has a mould for the Classic surplus to
> requirement?
It's an XS one I require although Nigel Charles has invited me over to get
dimensions and take photos of his.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets |
Hi! Mike.( I tried to mail this to your direct box but the server won't
accept it?)
You have me a little confused with your positions of the sockets viz:- port
spar is on the port spa but is to receive the starboard socket and the
cockpit socket is to receive the port spa !
The principle of opening the hole to 1" where ever is to ensure that the
spa's can be pulled together snug with the 1/2" pins without needing to
deflect or flex the sockets.
The sockets are technically not a structural item only a rigging aid.( I
flew over the Alps with my starboard cockpit socket (receives the PORT spa!)
cracked off during rigging!)
Be advised to put a flox redux fillet round the perimeter of both sockets to
provide a more positive location for them all at the same time that you bond
them in place.
Now I'll tell you of something else I've done to mine ....since I knocked it
off whilst rigging alone.
Whilst I had it off I had a 3" starter guide ramp (1" light angle) welded to
each of the "ramps" and reduxed them also to the seat backs. Now when I rig
alone the vertical movement of the incomming spa is guided into the socket.
No need on the other one since the spar "cuff" in the middle of the port spa
does the starboard spa guiding.
If you intend doing much rigging /derigging alone this is invaluable.
(otherwise don't bother doing it because an assistant can give visual
directions)
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa 337 MKI/Jabiru 3300 #084 300 hours approx.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets
Good morning all,
I hope everybody's build is going well. As for those flying, go ahead and
enjoy, don't worry about me. (sniff) :-)
I have a quick question. I'm at the point of bonding the S01 spar bushs into
the cockpit module and the Spar Sockets to the spar and cockpit module.
The manual has me open up one of the 1/2" holes of the port spar socket to
1"
in order to fit around the raised area of the S01 bush when bonded in place.
But it doesn't say anything about repeating this procedure to the other Spar
Socket that gets bonded to the port Spar. Is the second spar socket bonded
with
a Araldite/Flox pad underneath it?
Thanks for the input in advance.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. R. Jones" <jronjones(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets |
Mike,
Both spar sockets have to fit around the flanges of the bushes so they both
have to opened up. This is to allow a " bush to bush" contact when rigged.
Happy building!
Regards,
Ron Jones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets |
Ron & Bob,
Thanks for the input. I just wanted to make sure that both spar sockets had
to be opened up to 1".
Bob, I like the idea about the ramp guide. Sorry for the poor explanation.
But it is as you have said. Port spar socket onto the cockpit module to accept
the port spar and the starboard spar socket on the port spar to accept the
starboard spar. Both will get ample fillets of flox to maintain registration.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: S01 Bushs and Spar Sockets |
Mike,
In case you haven't done it yet, an easy way to open up the hole to 1" is cut
a 2x4 to the thickness and shape of the spar cup. You can use the end of the
spar tang as a template for the 2x4. I used my band saw to cut it to shape.
Insert the 2x4 into the cup and clamp it in place. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole into
the 2x4 directly in the center of the hole in the spar cup. Then, use a 1"
hole saw to open up the hole in the spar cup using the 2x4 as a guide for the
pilot bit on the hole saw. It works very well and you wind up with a perfect, 1"
hole in about 30 seconds. Be sure you scuff the cup with 60 grit well before
you bond it. Both of mine came loose and required rebonding after only a few
trial fits apparently because I didn't adequately scuff the surface of the cup.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg(at)ntlworld.com> |
My first entry so be gentle with me,
I am about to get some soft CAD plating done on some steel parts. I notice the
tailwheel leg/spring has some light corrosion on it and it has never left the
workshop.
My dilemma is do I plate it or not, will plating embrittle and affect spring qualities,
if indeed it is a spring?
I also just got the main ( Mono) leg painted in a chip resistant white, it made
the engine/ gear mount and Rudder pedal paintwork look amateur,( the rudder pedal
paint came off with the masking tape factory wrapped around it), so I decided
to repaint. Cleaning it off with Nitromors it just ran off, with residual
wiped off with a cloth, no sign of surface prep or priming.
Anyone else repainted these items?
Regards Alan Twigg
Mono Motorglider G-GIWT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
ALL acid based plating incurs Hydrogen embrittlement and needs to be baked,
I've been told.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
1-518-731-6800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel
>
> My first entry so be gentle with me,
>
> I am about to get some soft CAD plating done on some steel parts. I
notice the tailwheel leg/spring has some light corrosion on it and it has
never left the workshop.
> My dilemma is do I plate it or not, will plating embrittle and affect
spring qualities, if indeed it is a spring?
>
> I also just got the main ( Mono) leg painted in a chip resistant white, it
made the engine/ gear mount and Rudder pedal paintwork look amateur,( the
rudder pedal paint came off with the masking tape factory wrapped around
it), so I decided to repaint. Cleaning it off with Nitromors it just ran
off, with residual wiped off with a cloth, no sign of surface prep or
priming.
> Anyone else repainted these items?
>
> Regards Alan Twigg
> Mono Motorglider G-GIWT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
You are correct in re: hydrogen embrittlement, but if the plater does the
job correctly, i. e., uses a so-called "pickle aid" in the hydrochloric acid
dip prior to plating and follows that with a bake at 175 to 200 C for up to
3 hours the stress due to hydrogen embrittlement can be relieved.
Unless the corrosion is severe this pre-plating treatment, which is required
for plating, will also remove the corrosion.
Just a suggestion for purely cosmetic reasons, but nickel plating will
provide corrosion resistance and look better than cadmium.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airfarame complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel
ALL acid based plating incurs Hydrogen embrittlement and needs to be baked,
I've been told.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
1-518-731-6800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel
>
> My first entry so be gentle with me,
>
> I am about to get some soft CAD plating done on some steel parts. I
notice the tailwheel leg/spring has some light corrosion on it and it has
never left the workshop.
> My dilemma is do I plate it or not, will plating embrittle and affect
spring qualities, if indeed it is a spring?
>
> I also just got the main ( Mono) leg painted in a chip resistant white, it
made the engine/ gear mount and Rudder pedal paintwork look amateur,( the
rudder pedal paint came off with the masking tape factory wrapped around
it), so I decided to repaint. Cleaning it off with Nitromors it just ran
off, with residual wiped off with a cloth, no sign of surface prep or
priming.
> Anyone else repainted these items?
>
> Regards Alan Twigg
> Mono Motorglider G-GIWT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg(at)ntlworld.com> |
Thanks Rob, the plating company does work for Rolls-Royce so I will pass on
your sugestions, I am sure they will be able to comply, ( might even make me
look more knowlegable).
Alan Twigg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tailwheel
>
> You are correct in re: hydrogen embrittlement, but if the plater does the
> job correctly, i. e., uses a so-called "pickle aid" in the hydrochloric
acid
> dip prior to plating and follows that with a bake at 175 to 200 C for up
to
> 3 hours the stress due to hydrogen embrittlement can be relieved.
>
> Unless the corrosion is severe this pre-plating treatment, which is
required
> for plating, will also remove the corrosion.
>
> Just a suggestion for purely cosmetic reasons, but nickel plating will
> provide corrosion resistance and look better than cadmium.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airfarame complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel
>
>
> ALL acid based plating incurs Hydrogen embrittlement and needs to be
baked,
> I've been told.
>
> Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
> Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
> www.bellanca-championclub.com
> Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
> Quarterly newsletters on time
> Reasonable document reprints
> 1-518-731-6800
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg(at)ntlworld.com>
> To: "Europa-List Digest Server"
> Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel
>
>
> >
> > My first entry so be gentle with me,
> >
> > I am about to get some soft CAD plating done on some steel parts. I
> notice the tailwheel leg/spring has some light corrosion on it and it has
> never left the workshop.
> > My dilemma is do I plate it or not, will plating embrittle and affect
> spring qualities, if indeed it is a spring?
> >
> > I also just got the main ( Mono) leg painted in a chip resistant white,
it
> made the engine/ gear mount and Rudder pedal paintwork look amateur,( the
> rudder pedal paint came off with the masking tape factory wrapped around
> it), so I decided to repaint. Cleaning it off with Nitromors it just ran
> off, with residual wiped off with a cloth, no sign of surface prep or
> priming.
> > Anyone else repainted these items?
> >
> > Regards Alan Twigg
> > Mono Motorglider G-GIWT
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg(at)ntlworld.com> |
Thanks Cy, I think Rob Housman covered thge subject well.
Alan Twigg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel
>
> ALL acid based plating incurs Hydrogen embrittlement and needs to be
baked,
> I've been told.
>
> Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
> Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
> www.bellanca-championclub.com
> Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
> Quarterly newsletters on time
> Reasonable document reprints
> 1-518-731-6800
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Twigg" <alan.twigg(at)ntlworld.com>
> To: "Europa-List Digest Server"
> Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel
>
>
> >
> > My first entry so be gentle with me,
> >
> > I am about to get some soft CAD plating done on some steel parts. I
> notice the tailwheel leg/spring has some light corrosion on it and it has
> never left the workshop.
> > My dilemma is do I plate it or not, will plating embrittle and affect
> spring qualities, if indeed it is a spring?
> >
> > I also just got the main ( Mono) leg painted in a chip resistant white,
it
> made the engine/ gear mount and Rudder pedal paintwork look amateur,( the
> rudder pedal paint came off with the masking tape factory wrapped around
> it), so I decided to repaint. Cleaning it off with Nitromors it just ran
> off, with residual wiped off with a cloth, no sign of surface prep or
> priming.
> > Anyone else repainted these items?
> >
> > Regards Alan Twigg
> > Mono Motorglider G-GIWT
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Fly-in at Lydeway |
The fly-in at Lydeway last week-end was a very successful event. I have received
many thank-you cards from local residents asking me to pass their thanks to
the pilots who took them flying. At one stage we had 6 aircraft in the circuit
and I am pleased to say that the professional approach by all those involved
ensured we had a safe and enjoyable day. Well done. Even the slow flying Aeronca
with an intermittent radio didn't cause too many problems. Limiting the fly-in
to 10 aircraft proved to be a sensible number so we will keep to this limit
for future years.
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <mx(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Rotisserie Fitting |
For UK readers :-
Available free to a good home :-
A steel support for the front of the fuselage which, in conjunction with a rear
support, allows the fuselage to be rotated about its long axis, to improve the
ergonomics of working on it. A picture of it in use can be seen at
http://www.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/Techniques/Dollies.htm (last two
pictures)
It mounts to the landing gear frame, using the bosses to which the engine mount
will later be bolted. It provides for being locked at (approx) level and 45 and
90 degrees each way.
It was made by Mike Clews, who supported the rear fuselage by suspending it from
the garage roof. More recently I have been using it and the rear support is a
piece of 19mm chipboard with a channel cut down into the top edge, lined with
split foam pipe insulation and held in a Workmate.
Although it was made for use in initial build, Mike has just used it while
effecting a repair on a complete aircraft and reports that there was no problem
with this.
It is not particularly light and in its present form is a bit unwieldy for
transport.
It is presently lying in Maidenhead, Berks., with Mike Clews, 01628 631074
Or feel free to phone me, John Cliff, 01344 457323 for more details.
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | door latch covers |
Hi All, I have a question regarding the sequence of painting the doors,
outside handles, and fitting the latch covers. I suppose the handles need to
be painted before the latch covers are bonded in place. Do the covers need
to be bonded in place or are some folks using screws and nutplates? Seems
like you might want to get in there in the future?
Thanks Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | What type of epoxy/mix? |
Finally getting going on A-265 Monowheel
Have a few epoxy questions:
What type of epoxy is needed to bond hinges on Rudder and Anti-servo tabs?
Manual calls for Epoxy and Flox for Rudder, and Rapid Epoxy and Flox for
Anti-servo tabs. Is the manual correct?
What sort of fill is used to fill in the joggle on the back of the rudder? Is
Dry Micro OK?
The manual shows filling in a similar joggle on the anti-servo tabs with Dry
Micro, but it gets a strip on top of it.
Thanks
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What type of epoxy/mix? |
Review the first chapter in the builders manual for these definitions, but
in general when the manual calls for flox or micro (wet, dry, or slurry) or
expancell the presumption is that you will mix these materials with the
same epoxy used to wet the glass cloth (the epoxy that came with my kit was
from Aeropoxy - yours may be different). The fast cure (five minute) epoxy
is not an acceptable substitute for most applications, so unless
specifically called out, don't use the five minute epoxy for anything other
than temporarily holding things together. A third epoxy system was also
supplied, either called Redux or Araldite, and when this is required the
manual will be quite specific. It is used as a structural adhesive, for
such things as joining the top and bottom fuselage moldings and the cockpit
module.
Dry micro is the preferred filler for those glassed foam core joggle areas
that need to be "leveled" to match the surrounding areas, such as at the aft
edge of the rudder, ailerons, flaps, etc. .
Because the whole point of using micro or flox is to reduce the density of
the mix and thus reduce the weight, dry is better than wet. The trick is to
get the mix as dry as possible but still allow the stuff to be spread
easily, something that comes with experience.
I can not find any reference in my manual to using rapid epoxy and flox for
the anti-servo tabs. In general the manual IS correct and any errors that I
have found are not related to which epoxy to use.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Europa-List: What type of epoxy/mix?
Finally getting going on A-265 Monowheel
Have a few epoxy questions:
What type of epoxy is needed to bond hinges on Rudder and Anti-servo tabs?
Manual calls for Epoxy and Flox for Rudder, and Rapid Epoxy and Flox for
Anti-servo tabs. Is the manual correct?
What sort of fill is used to fill in the joggle on the back of the rudder?
Is
Dry Micro OK?
The manual shows filling in a similar joggle on the anti-servo tabs with Dry
Micro, but it gets a strip on top of it.
Thanks
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | What type of epoxy/mix? |
My manual reads like Ron's. Rapid, or 5-Min epoxy works well for hinges.
Less chance of pure epoxy squeezing out into your hinge. I called and asked
Europa when I was doing these and rapid was recommended.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Subject: RE: Europa-List: What type of epoxy/mix?
Review the first chapter in the builders manual for these definitions, but
in general when the manual calls for flox or micro (wet, dry, or slurry) or
expancell the presumption is that you will mix these materials with the
same epoxy used to wet the glass cloth (the epoxy that came with my kit was
from Aeropoxy - yours may be different). The fast cure (five minute) epoxy
is not an acceptable substitute for most applications, so unless
specifically called out, don't use the five minute epoxy for anything other
than temporarily holding things together. A third epoxy system was also
supplied, either called Redux or Araldite, and when this is required the
manual will be quite specific. It is used as a structural adhesive, for
such things as joining the top and bottom fuselage moldings and the cockpit
module.
Dry micro is the preferred filler for those glassed foam core joggle areas
that need to be "leveled" to match the surrounding areas, such as at the aft
edge of the rudder, ailerons, flaps, etc. .
Because the whole point of using micro or flox is to reduce the density of
the mix and thus reduce the weight, dry is better than wet. The trick is to
get the mix as dry as possible but still allow the stuff to be spread
easily, something that comes with experience.
I can not find any reference in my manual to using rapid epoxy and flox for
the anti-servo tabs. In general the manual IS correct and any errors that I
have found are not related to which epoxy to use.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Europa-List: What type of epoxy/mix?
Finally getting going on A-265 Monowheel
Have a few epoxy questions:
What type of epoxy is needed to bond hinges on Rudder and Anti-servo tabs?
Manual calls for Epoxy and Flox for Rudder, and Rapid Epoxy and Flox for
Anti-servo tabs. Is the manual correct?
What sort of fill is used to fill in the joggle on the back of the rudder?
Is
Dry Micro OK?
The manual shows filling in a similar joggle on the anti-servo tabs with Dry
Micro, but it gets a strip on top of it.
Thanks
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
I'm trying to set up the flap for drilling the hinge attachment
brackets (W18 & W19/20/21). I had to remove about 10mm of the flap
tip closeout to move the flap outboard & get it well-aligned with the
wing fixtures, and the TE needed a small taper removed to get the
required 3mm clearance between flap LE & vertical face of the wing
moulding. So far so good; but although things look generally
respectable, the lower surface of the flap (the one that's uppermost
at present, with the wing set upside-down on the template) appears
noticeably proud of the wing lower surface at the tip. It looks fine
at the root.
Question - do I need to relieve the wing moulding a few mm to get it
more flush? Obviously I can't remove much there without compromising
the strength of the corner (where the vertical part of the moulding
that separates the flap from the aileron linkage connects to the
curved part shaped like the flap LE).
Factory closed since noon today - anyone had this query already and
got a good answer from Neville or Andy?
regards
Rowland
--
| PFA #16532 e-mail
| 580 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net> |
Roland,
Nevelle sent me the following instructions for fitting and closing your wings and
flaps. Hope it helps
Al Stills
A095
Hi Alan,
Sorry for the delay in replying, we have had a major glitch here with our computer
system, nothing was coming, although a test message I sent from home appeared
to have made it ( I didn't get a non delivered note on my home computer).
Anyway, we are up and running again!
I can't remember how much detail on closing the wings I gave you , so here is my
latest procedeure.
Trim the aileron closeout flange to be 1/2'' wide (the part that bonds to the top
skin).
Trim the flap closeout flange to 1/2''.
Cut the bond at the rear of the rib on the rib at half aileron span to let the
closeout be free, also do the same on the outer flange of the outrigger rib.
The vertical web at the inboard end of the aileron should be cut out to leave
a 1/4'' rim.
Cut the ''roof'' off of the aileron mass balance boxes, and bond them onto the
lower skin, centred on the balance arms, as per manual.
Cleco the top skin on, and scribe a line on the underside, useing the closeout
flanges as a guide, and cut off the exess, so the upper panel matches the closeouts.
Cover the leading edge of the flap and aileron with 3 or 4mm kitchen floor linolium
or similar, and rig the flaps fully up, and the aileron in neutral.
Glue the top skin on, with steel box section over the spar flange joint, and on
top of the flap and aileron joints, with enough weight to gently squeeze the
Redux out.Put a generous amount of Redux on the ribs, and make a fillet along
the closeout joints to enlarge the glue line to about 3/4'', the Redux should
be thickened with cotton flox to the ''just doesn't run'' state.
When fully cured (leave for three days), remove the ailerons and flaps, and scuff
sand the inside of the mass balance boxes, and the underside of the upper panel,
and do a 3 ply Bid lay up from the box onto the skin.
When you remove the lino' you will have a uniform gap.Sand the aileron closeout/skin
edge at an angle, to match the required up deflection of the aileron.
This works every time, I did the last one this week.
Hope this will help, phone me on 1751 433475 if you need to talk this through,
sorry again about the delay.
Cheers,
Nev.
>>> "Alan Stills" 04/26/03 11:49pm >>>
Nevelle.
Appreciate the advice, however the closeout at the root was approximately
45MM while my aileron's are both 60 MM finished. The outboard end varied on
both the wings. I've quiried the factory as 15MM difference is a little much
for a factory fastbuild. Thanks
Al Stills
A095
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: door latch covers |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Kevin,
I am using rivets to secure the covers. You need to think about
anything that moves and wears, it will need to have maintenance pulled on
it sometime in the future. So, providing access is very important. This
goes for anything on the airframe. It was mentioned a while back that
you might need to have something to protect the side of the fuselage from
the door shoot bolts from digging in to the airframe on accidental
closures or extensions. I have gotten a few chips on my door. A small
piece of aluminum bonded at right angles to the shoot bolts where the
bolts enter the airframe will protect the paint. I need to do it but
its a bit too late for the initial dings. The pilot door is used a
hundred to one with the pax door so all the wear is there.
Jim Nelson
N15JN (52 hours+)
writes:
>
>
> Hi All, I have a question regarding the sequence of painting the
> doors,
> outside handles, and fitting the latch covers. I suppose the handles
> need to
> be painted before the latch covers are bonded in place. Do the
> covers need
> to be bonded in place or are some folks using screws and nutplates?
> Seems
> like you might want to get in there in the future?
>
> Thanks Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: door latch covers |
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
on 8/8/03 11:24 AM, Kevin Klinefelter at kevann(at)gte.net wrote:
>
> Hi All, I have a question regarding the sequence of painting the doors,
> outside handles, and fitting the latch covers. I suppose the handles need to
> be painted before the latch covers are bonded in place. Do the covers need
> to be bonded in place or are some folks using screws and nutplates? Seems
> like you might want to get in there in the future?
>
> Thanks Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
Kevin,
I am bonding the plates in place but cutting a hole where the door handle
bolt head is located. I used a nut plat in the outside handle before bonding
wood on and figure if i need in there for anyother reason I will just cut it
and do it again. The hole will alow me to take the outside handle off or to
squirt in some lubrication. Maby I will just put in a removable plug to
cover it. Keep asking questions and don't be afraid to use Nevile.
Jeff
Tri A258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet |
Gerry,
If the idea is to feed 2"diam. SCAT, I have the correct size
drawing for the NACA vent. It ends in a 1"x3" oblong exit which can be
converted to 2" diam. circle. It's still on the club page I think, or
Crixbinthing with John Cliff.
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Engine Cowling NACA Inlet
|
| Hi!
|
| Any chance someone has a digital photo and some rough dimensions for the
Top
| Cowling NACA Vent that feeds the Plenum Chamber. I'm using non XS Cowlings
| for my Rotax and dont have the 'scribed' shape to work with.
|
| Thanks
|
| Gerry
|
| Gerry Holland
| Europa 384
| G-FIZY
| +44 7808 402404
| gnholland(at)onetel.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Fitting the cowls |
Hi all,
I am tinkering around fitting the cowls at the moment at its turning out that I
don't have to trim anything off the back edges. In actual fact on the bottom
cowl it seems to be 3 mm or so too short. I really would have expected to need
to trim the cowls to length and now I am starting to wonder if I have them
too far forward. Has any one else had the same experience.
Paul XS 363
http://europa363.versadev.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alexander P. de C. Kaarsberg" <kaarsber(at)terra.com.br> |
| Subject: | Any builders in the Melbourne area? |
As I am in Melbourne on business until the end of August, I would like
to see if there are any Europa builders in the area who would welcome a
visit from a fellow builder?
Regards,
Alex, kit 529
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What type of epoxy/mix? |
Ron
Others have replied about which epoxy. Suggest not filling the joggles until
you get to surface filling the whole rudder/tabs etc. We ended up using
another filling product (superfill) having already filled the joggles with
expancel and resin - they don't sand the same so we ended up sanding the
joggle fill out and starting again with superfill.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Europa-List: What type of epoxy/mix?
>
> Finally getting going on A-265 Monowheel
>
> Have a few epoxy questions:
>
> What type of epoxy is needed to bond hinges on Rudder and Anti-servo tabs?
> Manual calls for Epoxy and Flox for Rudder, and Rapid Epoxy and Flox for
> Anti-servo tabs. Is the manual correct?
>
> What sort of fill is used to fill in the joggle on the back of the rudder?
Is
> Dry Micro OK?
> The manual shows filling in a similar joggle on the anti-servo tabs with
Dry
> Micro, but it gets a strip on top of it.
>
> Thanks
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Stress Analysis/Barry Mellers ???????????? |
Gidday,
I am after contact details for Barry Mellers and was hoping someone in the
UK could help me. He was recommended by Andy at Europa for structural
analysis mod work etc. I anticipate putting a single, largish access on the
floor of the fuse on the longitudinal axis, between the rudder pedal
pulleys, and need his guidance. Anyone knowing his whereabouts please??
Reg
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Stress Analysis/Barry Mellers ???????????? |
Tony your dashed server is saying that your post box is over quota. You have
a bloody problem somewhere?
Bob.
-----Original Message-----
From: R.C.Harrison [mailto:ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk]
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Stress Analysis/Barry Mellers ????????????
Hi! Tony .
Herewith Barry's contact details as requested, great chap he did all my
technical work especially on my CS propeller /Crank shaft mod. and access
panels through the firewall to the instrument panel.
Barry Mellers
Fairoak House
Barnoldswick Road
Balckburn
Lancs BB9 6RG
United Kingdom
Tel:- 0044 1282612985
E-Mail .....mellers(at)totalise.co.uk
Tony did you get my messages concerning the torque tube clamps?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Stress Analysis/Barry Mellers ????????????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk |
| Subject: | Re: door latch covers |
>I am bonding the plates in place but cutting a hole where the door handle
bolt head is located. I used a nut plat in the outside handle before bonding
wood on and figure if i need in there for anyother reason I will just cut
it
and do it again. The hole will alow me to take the outside handle off or
to
squirt in some lubrication. Maby I will just put in a removable plug to
cover it.<
The manual calls for the plates to be bonded. I suspect that this is to
ensure
adequate strength is achieved. I did exactly as Jeff mentioned above by
drilling a 1" hole and fitting a 1" blind grommet. This leaves a neat finish
and enables access to remove the handle if required.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: WMC2003.Long Marston |
Following notice forwarded via Europa Club Membership Secretary:
>From: "Brian Barrass" <brian(at)mwflyer.co.uk>
>Subject: WMC2003.Long Marston
>Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 12:46:27 +0100
>
>The British Microlight Aircraft Association presents the the 9th FAI
>World Microlight Championship and the 3rd FAI World PPG Championship
>to be held at Long Marston Airfield near Stratford-upon-Avon in
>Warwickshire between 23 and 31 August 2003. Around 160 of the
>world's top competition pilots will be competing for the title of
>World Champion in seven microlight classes, including, for the first
>time ever, single and two seat powered parachutes (PPT's).
>
>Teams may start arriving at the site from Monday 18 August. The
>event will start on Saturday 23 August with the opening ceremony, a
>fly in, an air display, a ground exhibition and a trade fair.
>
>There are several ways you can participate in this event. You can
>simply fly or drive in to enjoy the spectacle and see the aircraft.
>Or you can volunteer to help as a marshal during the week of the
>competition. If you are a manufacturer or importer you can display
>your products and arrange test flights at the opening and closing
>ceremonies and throughout the week. And if you are a past or
>aspiring international competitor you can participate in the BMAA
>National Championships and win a place in the British Team to
>compete in WMC2003.
>
>The pre-registration web site for all team members is
>www.flymicro.com/COMPS As an incentive for this to be done properly,
>all those who have correctly pre-registered will automatically be
>entered in a draw for two GNSS flight recorders.
>
>Contact
>
>Event Director: Keith Negal keith(at)negal.com
>
>Classic classes & PL2 Director: Rob Keene rob(at)overfarm.freeserve.co.uk
>
>PPG & PL1 Director: Richard Meredith-Hardy rmh(at)flymicro.com
>
>http://www.wmc2003.org/index.cfm
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | boxted fly-in (suffolk) 30 & 31 aug |
I've received a PDF poster about the Boxted fly-in (2003 08 30 & 31)
which I can't post to this forum.
For details & PPR please phone 01206 231304 or e-mail .
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any builders in the Melbourne area? |
>I am in Melbourne on business until the end of August, I would like
>to see if there are any Europa builders in the area
Alex - there is only one I know of in Melbourne itself, but about 10
altogether in the state of Victoria.
John Anselmi 430
John Bampfylde 130 VH-JXN
Tony Baxter 410
Allan Bowden 200 19-3248
Francis Connell 262 19-3084
Nigel Hutchinson-Brooks 423
David Matuschka 429
Lance Sandford 471
Arthur Stubbs 424 VH-XSI
Brian Waldron 127 VH-BWI
The only current Club member among them is John Bampfylde (thus I can
let you have his details if you haven't got your member list handy) -
the others have either lapsed or never joined (thus I'm not permitted
to release any of their details).
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Guernsey Rally 12th - 14th September |
Following notice forwarded via Europa Club Membership Secretary:
>From: "Guernsey Air Rally" <rally(at)guernseyaeroclub.com>
>To: europa-club(at)rowil.clara.net
>Subject: 12th - 14th September
>Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 00:11:39 +0100
>
>This to remind contacts met at previous PFA rallies that the dates
>of the Guernsey Air Rally this year are 12th - 14th September 2003
>For early arrivals there is the Battle of Britain air display on
>Thursday including the Red Arrows
>Then there is the optional navigation competion starting in Dinard
>on Friday 12th September, or fly in direct for a great reception.
>Dont miss the hangar ball party on Saturday night, live music, spit
>roast, fancy dress theme '100 years of flight'
>Please check our website at www.guernseyaeroclub.com/rally or
>contact the club for more details
>Please note transponders are not required during the rally period
>- and it is really not that far across the water!!
>
>Colin Ferbrache - Rally Director
>
>Mark Dravers - Navex and website
>
>Brent Baigent - Club Manager tel. 01481 265267 (from outside UK +44
>1481 265267) fax 01481 263830
>
>EMAIL : rally(at)guernseyaeroclub.com
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Edinburgh Festival Fly-in 22/23 Aug |
Following notice forwarded via Europa Club Membership Secretary:
>From: "Ian Wales" <ian(at)ianwales.flyer.co.uk>
>Subject: Edinburgh Festival Fly-in 22/23 Aug
>Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 12:14:40 +0100
>
>From the East of Scotland Strut
>
>Attached is information for this year's Festival Fly-in at East
>Fortune on Friday 22nd/Sat 23rd August.
>
>It would be great if you could pass this on to as many as possible.
>
>This event has been good fun in the past, and we hope to see you all
>there. Entry to the Museum of Flight will be free to all visiting
>aircrew.
>
>We'll be having a Ceilidh on Friday 22nd (dancing from 8pm) with a
>cash bar and Barbeque from 7pm, and if you would like to reserve a
>ticket (7.00) give me a call by any of the methods below, or call
>Tim Rayner (0131 443 3807) or Jim Oliver (01620 850 375)
>
>Regards
>
>Ian Wales
>Coordinator, East of Scotland Strut, PFA.
>
>14 Albert Terrace, Edinburgh EH10 5EA
>Tel: 0131 447 5916, Fax: 0131 446 9376, Mob 0780 194 7726
>ianwales(at)flyer.co.uk
Ian sent me a GIF which I can't attach to messages here, but I'm sure
he would be happy to let you have a copy if you contact him direct.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (580 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Harrison" <nigel.harrison(at)manx.net> |
Dear Europa builders,
I am awaiting the arrival of my XS Trigear kit (584) and wonder whether there is
anyone out there who has a fuselage cradle they no longer need and would be
willing to loan or sell to me. Oh, by the way, I live on the Isle of Man.
Regards
Nigel Harrison
************************************************************************
This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
http://www.manx.net/solutions/mailplushome.asp
************************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Filling around the cowl area |
Hi all,
I was wondering what other have done with respect to filling the transition between
the cowl and the fuselage. In particular the joggle makes the cowl sit high
in this area by 3 mm. This would require a lot of filler to be put on the
fuselage. I am thinking of recessing the fuselage instead. I suspect that I
will have to take out quite a bit of material and to be prepared to have to reinforce
it with cloth.
Another approach would be to remove the joggle in on the bottom cowl so I don't
have a double thickness of material, however this would leave the bottom cowl
unsupported in the corner which would be undesirable.
I'd be interested to know what others have done.
Regards, Paul
http://europa363.versadev.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
Nigel;
I can't help you over on the Isle of Man but I have a cradle over in the
USA outside the Phoenix area that I just pulled the acft out of . It can
level the fuselage longitudinally and laterally, and pull in any twist
that might be present in the bottom boat. It is made of tubular steel with
plywood saddles. If anyone is interested I can e mail a photo.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Nigel Harrison <nigel.harrison(at)manx.net>
> To:
> Date: 8/10/03 4:07:18 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: Fuselage Cradle
>
>
>
> Dear Europa builders,
>
> I am awaiting the arrival of my XS Trigear kit (584) and wonder whether
there is anyone out there who has a fuselage cradle they no longer need and
would be willing to loan or sell to me. Oh, by the way, I live on the Isle
of Man.
> Regards
> Nigel Harrison
>
> ************************************************************************
> This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
> http://www.manx.net/solutions/mailplushome.asp
> ************************************************************************
>
>
>
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Filling around the cowl area |
I thinned each a little and filled the fuselage out to meet them. Mine was
the same as yours, but a classic.
Troy Maynor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
Subject: Europa-List: Filling around the cowl area
Hi all,
I was wondering what other have done with respect to filling the transition
between the cowl and the fuselage. In particular the joggle makes the cowl
sit high in this area by 3 mm. This would require a lot of filler to be put
on the fuselage. I am thinking of recessing the fuselage instead. I
suspect that I will have to take out quite a bit of material and to be
prepared to have to reinforce it with cloth.
Another approach would be to remove the joggle in on the bottom cowl so I
don't have a double thickness of material, however this would leave the
bottom cowl unsupported in the corner which would be undesirable.
I'd be interested to know what others have done.
Regards, Paul
http://europa363.versadev.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Stress Analysis/Barry Mellers ???????????? |
You can get Barry Mellers on "mellers(at)totalise.co.uk" I have his address
and telephone number if required and will supply it for you off list if
required.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Stress Analysis/Barry Mellers ????????????
Gidday,
I am after contact details for Barry Mellers and was hoping someone in the
UK could help me. He was recommended by Andy at Europa for structural
analysis mod work etc. I anticipate putting a single, largish access on the
floor of the fuse on the longitudinal axis, between the rudder pedal
pulleys, and need his guidance. Anyone knowing his whereabouts please??
Reg
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling around the cowl area |
Thanks, - Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Filling around the cowl area
>
> I thinned each a little and filled the fuselage out to meet them. Mine was
> the same as yours, but a classic.
> Troy Maynor
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
> McAllister
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Filling around the cowl area
>
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was wondering what other have done with respect to filling the
transition
> between the cowl and the fuselage. In particular the joggle makes the
cowl
> sit high in this area by 3 mm. This would require a lot of filler to be
put
> on the fuselage. I am thinking of recessing the fuselage instead. I
> suspect that I will have to take out quite a bit of material and to be
> prepared to have to reinforce it with cloth.
>
> Another approach would be to remove the joggle in on the bottom cowl so I
> don't have a double thickness of material, however this would leave the
> bottom cowl unsupported in the corner which would be undesirable.
>
> I'd be interested to know what others have done.
>
> Regards, Paul
>
> http://europa363.versadev.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ctsmallwood" <ctsmallwood(at)onetel.net.uk> |
| Subject: | electric artificial horizon and direction indicator |
Just about ready to fit instruments.
Want to stay all electric in prep for
glider wings'.Can any one supply
an Art. Hor and a Directional Ind?
Colin Smallwood Kit 232 Tri gear
Derbyshire UK
01773 570329
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position. |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Hi Folks,
After reading many of the websites out there and reading over the
instructions, I am wondering what the reason is for the 15mm recessed
position (with respect to the tunnel sides) of the inner thigh support
ribs.
What parts of the landing gear mechanism does this 15mm offset
accommodate?
Cheers & thanks,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Filling around the cowl area |
Because that part of the fuselage molding must remain structurally sound it
would be better to remove as much excess epoxy resin from the aft end of the
cowl moldings before attacking the fuselage moldings. Fortunately my
moldings required little "adjustment" to get a good fit at the region
forward of the windscreen so the only significant fit problem was where the
upper and lower cowl moldings come together to join the fuselage. In
sanding that area to get a good fit I found that it was necessary to
perforate the fuselage and reinforce the puncture with epoxy-glass, but I
avoided doing this for a larger area for fear of weakening the structure.
It is better to add a bit of weight rather than removing essential
structure.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Subject: Europa-List: Filling around the cowl area
Hi all,
I was wondering what other have done with respect to filling the transition
between the cowl and the fuselage. In particular the joggle makes the cowl
sit high in this area by 3 mm. This would require a lot of filler to be put
on the fuselage. I am thinking of recessing the fuselage instead. I
suspect that I will have to take out quite a bit of material and to be
prepared to have to reinforce it with cloth.
Another approach would be to remove the joggle in on the bottom cowl so I
don't have a double thickness of material, however this would leave the
bottom cowl unsupported in the corner which would be undesirable.
I'd be interested to know what others have done.
Regards, Paul
http://europa363.versadev.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position. |
Peter,
When the brake pads wear they move out and it is possible for them to
interfere in this area. I actually had to cut part of the support away and
make a small fiberglass recess to clear my brake cylinder.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position.
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> After reading many of the websites out there and reading over the
> instructions, I am wondering what the reason is for the 15mm recessed
> position (with respect to the tunnel sides) of the inner thigh support
> ribs.
>
> What parts of the landing gear mechanism does this 15mm offset
> accommodate?
>
> Cheers & thanks,
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric artificial horizon and direction indicator |
Hi,
i have decided to go for the grandrapids efis system and i have a used
electric artificial horizon .I also have an argus 5000 movingmap/directional
gyro and a Narco nav122(vor stand alone) Make me an offer. I'm based in london.
regards Karim.
# 420
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Outrigger wheels? |
Anyone ever try Inline skate wheels as a replacement for outrigger wheels?
Check out 100MM ones here:
http://www.nettracing.com/wheels.htm
I am sure you can get sealed BBs for them.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position. |
Peter,
In addition to what Paul McAllister has said about the brake pads wearing,
extra room is also required for the routing of the rudder cables if you
install them as per the manual. I would be loath to move them if I were
you.
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position.
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> After reading many of the websites out there and reading over the
> instructions, I am wondering what the reason is for the 15mm recessed
> position (with respect to the tunnel sides) of the inner thigh support
> ribs.
>
> What parts of the landing gear mechanism does this 15mm offset
> accommodate?
>
> Cheers & thanks,
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position. |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Thanks all for the info...
I'll keep them at 15mm.
Cheers & thanks again (this forum is great!),
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: Kingsley Hurst [mailto:hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position.
Peter,
In addition to what Paul McAllister has said about the brake pads
wearing,
extra room is also required for the routing of the rudder cables if you
install them as per the manual. I would be loath to move them if I were
you.
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Inner (tunnel) Thigh Support ribs position.
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> After reading many of the websites out there and reading over the
> instructions, I am wondering what the reason is for the 15mm recessed
> position (with respect to the tunnel sides) of the inner thigh support
> ribs.
>
> What parts of the landing gear mechanism does this 15mm offset
> accommodate?
>
> Cheers & thanks,
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David DeFord" <davedeford(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Filling around the cowl area |
> I was wondering what other have done with respect to filling
> the transition between the cowl and the fuselage. In
> particular the joggle makes the cowl sit high in this area by
> 3 mm. This would require a lot of filler to be put on the
> fuselage. I am thinking of recessing the fuselage instead.
> I suspect that I will have to take out quite a bit of
> material and to be prepared to have to reinforce it with cloth.
>
> Another approach would be to remove the joggle in on the
> bottom cowl so I don't have a double thickness of material,
> however this would leave the bottom cowl unsupported in the
> corner which would be undesirable.
>
> I'd be interested to know what others have done.
>
We removed about an inch of the joggle on the lower cowl at the top aft
corners, so the screws hold only the upper cowl at those points. This has
worked out just fine for us. The lower cowl is held precisely in place,
between the upper cowl and fuselage joggle, and there are plenty of screws
remaining around the lower cowl to keep it firmly attached.
Dave DeFord
M135TD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Fillinger <fillinger(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling around the cowl area |
> We removed about an inch of the joggle on the lower cowl at the top aft
> corners, so the screws hold only the upper cowl at those points. This has
> worked out just fine for us. The lower cowl is held precisely in place,
> between the upper cowl and fuselage joggle, and there are plenty of screws
> remaining around the lower cowl to keep it firmly attached.
>
> Dave DeFord
> M135TD
Did the same thing, and altered screw spacing so the top screw on the
lower cowl is more nearish to the top of the lower cowl half. I agree,
it's still affixed solid.
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Filling around the cowl area |
Your mention of screw locations reminded me that there is another concern
with locating the cowl attachment screw holes - the location of the panel
attachment screw holes. As I learned from a post on this forum several
years ago, it is easy enough to have the two sets of fasteners interfere
with each other. It would be a good idea to plan both sets of attachment
points at the same time (for obvious reasons).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fred Fillinger
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Filling around the cowl area
> We removed about an inch of the joggle on the lower cowl at the top aft
> corners, so the screws hold only the upper cowl at those points. This has
> worked out just fine for us. The lower cowl is held precisely in place,
> between the upper cowl and fuselage joggle, and there are plenty of screws
> remaining around the lower cowl to keep it firmly attached.
>
> Dave DeFord
> M135TD
Did the same thing, and altered screw spacing so the top screw on the
lower cowl is more nearish to the top of the lower cowl half. I agree,
it's still affixed solid.
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Winter ASI or Not????? |
Gidday,
At first I didn't like the Winter 6443 ASI but it has grown on me as I now
think of it as "Europa Specific". Now you can tell that I havent flown in
too many gliders as I have it on expert authority that they are more common
in them. Having said all that, I am aware of what Europa say about this for
speed management at low IAS, for example on takeoff, but I want to know
what other users think of them please. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Winter ASI or Not????? |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Tony,
Tell you what. Why not buy my ASI so I can buy a Winter!
Having an ASI that works at low speeds in the Europa is really good. I
use the RMI uEncoder as my primary approach instrument as it's sensitive
down at low speeds and allows me to really nail the approach/final/flare
speeds.
Having a Winter ASI would achieve the same sort of thing.
Tony [eagerly awaiting the arrival of the plane back from the painters]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Hello to All,
My friend that allows me to use his rivet squeezer has gone on vacation for
three weeks just when I needed him, or it. He's an RV builder and knows his
rivets. He inspects my workmanship after I'm done and gives me some good
information, since I have never had to squeeze rivets before this.
Anyone know of any acceptable caveman ways of squeezing these without a real
tool? Is a vise OK to use? Ball peen hammer on an anvil? But that removes any
evidence of the "dot" on the head and flattens it.
My only options would be to wait for his return or pay over $125 for a tool
that I'll rarely use. Both of these ways bother me.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Winter ASI or Not????? |
Yee ha on the painting. I hope it stays on ;-)
Reg
Tony R.
>
>Tony,
>
>Tell you what. Why not buy my ASI so I can buy a Winter!
>
>Having an ASI that works at low speeds in the Europa is really good. I
>use the RMI uEncoder as my primary approach instrument as it's sensitive
>down at low speeds and allows me to really nail the approach/final/flare
>speeds.
>
>Having a Winter ASI would achieve the same sort of thing.
>
>Tony [eagerly awaiting the arrival of the plane back from the painters]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Hand Setting Rivets |
Mike,
Rivet setting tool from ACS or friendly LAME. Peen out the head a little with a
flat punch and then drive home with balanced job and accurate "technical taps".
2 people required as it is basically impossible without the job being kept
steady on the end of the setting tool, unless you have 3 arms, no 4. Head size
1/5 times original diameter. Secret for hand setting..... Use a spring loaded
centrepunch to establish/re-establish small drilling hole for removal prior to
drilling. This will ensure drill remains centred and doesn't walk away from
shaft below. Careful depth of drilling so that head alone can be cut off with
sharp chisel. I hope I haven't jinxed you with this tip. Good luck.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
>
>Hello to All,
>
>My friend that allows me to use his rivet squeezer has gone on vacation for
>three weeks just when I needed him, or it. He's an RV builder and knows his
>rivets. He inspects my workmanship after I'm done and gives me some good
>information, since I have never had to squeeze rivets before this.
>Anyone know of any acceptable caveman ways of squeezing these without a real
>tool? Is a vise OK to use? Ball peen hammer on an anvil? But that removes any
>evidence of the "dot" on the head and flattens it.
>My only options would be to wait for his return or pay over $125 for a tool
>that I'll rarely use. Both of these ways bother me.
>
>Mike Duane A207
>Redding, California
>XS Trigear
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | dimensions of boxes |
| From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok(at)ukolo.fi> |
Does anybody have the dimensions of the boxes fot stage 1, 2 and 3 at
hand? Have seen them somewhere, but can't find them now i need them :-(
Jos Okhuijsen (not building yet)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dimensions of boxes |
My stage two and three came in a crate 16 feet long, 6 feet high and
4 feet wide. Don't rermember the size of the stage one box.
John, A230
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok(at)ukolo.fi>
Subject: Europa-List: dimensions of boxes
>
> Does anybody have the dimensions of the boxes fot stage 1, 2 and 3 at
> hand? Have seen them somewhere, but can't find them now i need them :-(
> Jos Okhuijsen (not building yet)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Winter ASI or Not????? |
Winter ASI or Not?????
Gidday,
At first I didn't like the Winter 6443 ASI but it has grown on me as I now
think of it as "Europa Specific". I am aware of what Europa say about this for
speed management at low IAS, for example on takeoff, but I want to know
what other users think of them please. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Tony
I would recommend the Dynon AI which has airspeed , altitude and AOA
displayed as tapes. AOA is the right way to control airspeed. It tells you
instantly if something has changed. Any ASI only tells you something
changed 20 seconds ago.
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Winter ASI or Not????? |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Tony Hi!
> I would recommend the Dynon AI which has airspeed , altitude and AOA
> displayed as tapes. AOA is the right way to control airspeed. It tells you
> instantly if something has changed. Any ASI only tells you something
> changed 20 seconds ago.
I have fitted the Dynon EFIS although it hasn't flown yet.
It's a neat device at a good price, $2200 with Flush mounting Bracket and
internal Lithium Battery that lasts 2 hrs + and gives independence in event
of total electrical failure.
It provides:
AoA (extra $250)
Attitude Indicator
Compass/DI type display (can have remote Compass unit)
VSI
Voltmeter
G - Meter
Timer
Clock
Airspeed
Barometric Pressure is now in millibars and has single button selection when
Transition Altitude reached.
Furthermore it's a Grey code Encoder for Transponder
I've also downloaded 5 Checklists of my own selectable with a single key as
required.
ASI and Altimeter can be set with 'bugs' and Airspeed bands (Vne, Vso) etc
can be set with colour code.
It would be possible to use Dynon as primary VFR awareness device and move
conventional ASI, VSI and Altimeter to RH side or add supplementary Panel on
that side as standby instruments.
The cost and weight saving is worth consideration. It weighs 1.5lbs.
There are some great devices either available or imminent including a super
unit from Grand Rapids Avionics although a little more expensive.
Spoilt for choice mate!
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Rougham Air Display 17th August |
Following message forwarded by Europa Club membership secretary.
Please make any responses on this direct to Duncan Skeels.
>Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 15:54:19 +0100 (BST)
>From: Duncan Skeels <aeronautsaviators(at)yahoo.co.uk>
>Subject: Rougham Air Display 17th August
>To: aeronautsaviators(at)yahoo.co.uk
>
>Hi guys & gals!
>
>I have 26 slots available for our Air Display on
>Sunday 17th!!!! Not many places you can go for free
>and see a 4 hour flying display to boot!
>
>I have slots available from 0900 local up until 1240
>local...the catch is you can't leave until after END
>DISPLAY (1710 approx)...but there will be plenty to
>keep you entertained...probably headed by me running
>around pulling my steadily receding hair out!
>
>It's not often in GA that you're offered a freebie..no
>landing fees, no event admission (please leave all
>aircraft seating more than 8 at home!!!!)
>
>There will be a prize for the most interesting and the
>best turned out visiting aircraft (in mine or my
>designee's opinion)...don't sell up and move to the
>Bahama's just yet!
>
>Please let me know ASAP if you intend to visit and
>what is your 'dream slot time' I will get back to
>you...
>
>You can of course come along on Saturday and visit or
>(god forbid) camp over..again let me know...tents will
>be inspected at 0400 Sunday morning! Once a Scout
>always a Scout as Manfred von Richthofen would say! or
>was that a Canadian with a Lee Enfield?????
>
>all the best
>
>Duncan
>
>=====
>Duncan Skeels,Airfield Operations Manager/Flying Display Director,
>Rougham Airfield,Suffolk, UK. Pilots airfield info at:
>www.roughamairfield.org org general event info Tel: 01359-270238
>Pilots E-mail:duncan(at)roughamairfield.org/duncs@roughamairfield.org
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (590 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter ASI or Not????? |
I used a second-hand Winter rescued from a glider. Its brilliant! I can't
find any measurable error anywhere in the Europa speed range.
Static source is from the cockpit by the way.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Winter ASI or Not?????
>
> Yee ha on the painting. I hope it stays on ;-)
> Reg
> Tony R.
>
> >
> >Tony,
> >
> >Tell you what. Why not buy my ASI so I can buy a Winter!
> >
> >Having an ASI that works at low speeds in the Europa is really good. I
> >use the RMI uEncoder as my primary approach instrument as it's sensitive
> >down at low speeds and allows me to really nail the approach/final/flare
> >speeds.
> >
> >Having a Winter ASI would achieve the same sort of thing.
> >
> >Tony [eagerly awaiting the arrival of the plane back from the painters]
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Graham & Tony,
I am about ready to close my wings. This Dynon EFIS looks very
interesting. I checked their web site and it is quite descriptive of
most everything except physically installing the pitot/static/AI probe.
Can you provide any better information about installing their probe on
the Eruopa XS wing? Where, how, wiring, plumbing, photos, etc.
Thanks,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
940-497-2123 - Home
817-992-1117 - Cel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com> |
Hi,
Just thought it was time I asked the question.
Since completing my 'plane (first flight Aug. 1999) I have experienced oil
siphoning out of the tank into (presumably) the crank case if it is left
unused for a number of days. I used to recon on two weeks for the level on
the dipstick to go from full to less than half way down the 'flat' on the
stick, but with the advent of the new improved dipstick - which requires
more oil in the tank and has a shorter 'flat' - this seems to be more like a
week.
The system is a 'Classic' airframe with the 80hp 912 and oil tank on the
port side as instructed. The tank is set at the correct height according to
the manual - in fact there is no possibility of it being anywhere else due
to the exhaust stubs, cowlings, firewall, etc.
This doesn't cause me too much of a problem - I just have to ensure I go
flying at least once a week :-) but am curious as to whether anyone else has
come across this.
Regards,
Peter
mailto:peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
viruses.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
H Peter,
Since my first flight (and especially since new dipstick) I have had the
same concerns.
I understand though that this is perfectly normal. If you look hard enough,
the Rotax manuals suggest running the engine for 1 minute before checking
the oil level. Personally I feel this practice will increase engine wear
(and starter motor).
My solution is to manually rotate the prop blades (in the correct direction)
for about three full turns until you hear air benig blown back into the oil
tank. Its a bit of a pain but good exercise ! (just be aware of the prop
tips - they have cut me several times).
Needless to say make sure the mags are well and truly off before attempting
this.
Another option is to turn the engine using the starter, but if you have a
proper starter switch you wont be able to do this without activating the
magnetos.
Safe flying,
Carl
PS If you want a chat, my number is 01296 738129 (just in case you have lost
it)
PPS What oil are you using (I have changed to Castrol RS Superbike since my
oil temp rose to 135 last week in the hot weather- guess I will need to move
the oil cooler from behind the radiators)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Oil Level
>
> Hi,
>
> Just thought it was time I asked the question.
>
> Since completing my 'plane (first flight Aug. 1999) I have experienced oil
> siphoning out of the tank into (presumably) the crank case if it is left
> unused for a number of days. I used to recon on two weeks for the level on
> the dipstick to go from full to less than half way down the 'flat' on the
> stick, but with the advent of the new improved dipstick - which requires
> more oil in the tank and has a shorter 'flat' - this seems to be more like
a
> week.
>
> The system is a 'Classic' airframe with the 80hp 912 and oil tank on the
> port side as instructed. The tank is set at the correct height according
to
> the manual - in fact there is no possibility of it being anywhere else due
> to the exhaust stubs, cowlings, firewall, etc.
>
> This doesn't cause me too much of a problem - I just have to ensure I go
> flying at least once a week :-) but am curious as to whether anyone else
has
> come across this.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter
>
> mailto:peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
>
> This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
> viruses.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter ASI or Not????? |
Graham,
Thanks for the tip. I am now off to have a look at the Dynon site.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
>
>Winter ASI or Not?????
>
>
>Gidday,
>At first I didn't like the Winter 6443 ASI but it has grown on me as I now
>think of it as "Europa Specific". I am aware of what Europa say about this for
>speed management at low IAS, for example on takeoff, but I want to know
>what other users think of them please. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>Reg
>Tony Renshaw
>
>Tony
>I would recommend the Dynon AI which has airspeed , altitude and AOA
>displayed as tapes. AOA is the right way to control airspeed. It tells you
>instantly if something has changed. Any ASI only tells you something
>changed 20 seconds ago.
>Graham
>
>
>---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
What I have done is to check the oil at the end of every flight. Since I am
the only one flying it, I can check the airplane the next time I fly. If no oil
is leaking, then the oil level should be OK. Looking at the level of oil at
start will make sense depending on how long the airplane has sat and what the
level was after the last flight. One other consideration is that the engine
flew with the old dip stick for years. This new one is just more conservative,
I
think. Just keep it topped off!
Dave
A227 Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com> |
Hi Dave,
I used to check it after each flight, and still do occasionally if really
necessary. However, after burning my thumb and finger so often I am very
circumspect about doing this now unless I am hanging around for an hour or
so!
The nice thing is that allowing for the level 'ups and downs' I don't seem
to use much at all between 50 hour replacements. Nice engine, the 912.
Regards,
Peter
mailto:peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
viruses.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DJA727(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Oil Level
What I have done is to check the oil at the end of every flight. Since I am
the only one flying it, I can check the airplane the next time I fly. If no
oil
is leaking, then the oil level should be OK. Looking at the level of oil at
start will make sense depending on how long the airplane has sat and what
the
level was after the last flight. One other consideration is that the engine
flew with the old dip stick for years. This new one is just more
conservative, I
think. Just keep it topped off!
Dave
A227 Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com> |
Hi Carl,
Nice to know I am not unique with this! I don't seem to have much luck with
turning the prop by hand to get the oil back into the tank. The pump seems
to out pace the crank case pressure at that speed (give me a scavenge pump
any day).
Agree with you about running the engine for short bursts - doesn't do the
thing any good and if I am unable to go flying for over a week (like in this
recent weather - Vis was zero in Oxfordshire) I find a nice quiet corner of
the 'field and run it up for 30 minutes or so to get the 'T's nice and high.
Now someone will tell me that this isn't good for the engine either :-(
The oil I am using Motul 5100 - one from the list recommended by Rotax. This
is semi-synthetic with a gear additive and being semi allows me to use Avgas
to top up when away from home.
I'll give you a ring during the w/e.
Regards,
Peter
mailto:peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
viruses.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Carl & Dot
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Oil Level
H Peter,
Since my first flight (and especially since new dipstick) I have had the
same concerns.
I understand though that this is perfectly normal. If you look hard enough,
the Rotax manuals suggest running the engine for 1 minute before checking
the oil level. Personally I feel this practice will increase engine wear
(and starter motor).
My solution is to manually rotate the prop blades (in the correct direction)
for about three full turns until you hear air benig blown back into the oil
tank. Its a bit of a pain but good exercise ! (just be aware of the prop
tips - they have cut me several times).
Needless to say make sure the mags are well and truly off before attempting
this.
Another option is to turn the engine using the starter, but if you have a
proper starter switch you wont be able to do this without activating the
magnetos.
Safe flying,
Carl
PS If you want a chat, my number is 01296 738129 (just in case you have lost
it)
PPS What oil are you using (I have changed to Castrol RS Superbike since my
oil temp rose to 135 last week in the hot weather- guess I will need to move
the oil cooler from behind the radiators)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Oil Level
>
> Hi,
>
> Just thought it was time I asked the question.
>
> Since completing my 'plane (first flight Aug. 1999) I have experienced oil
> siphoning out of the tank into (presumably) the crank case if it is left
> unused for a number of days. I used to recon on two weeks for the level on
> the dipstick to go from full to less than half way down the 'flat' on the
> stick, but with the advent of the new improved dipstick - which requires
> more oil in the tank and has a shorter 'flat' - this seems to be more like
a
> week.
>
> The system is a 'Classic' airframe with the 80hp 912 and oil tank on the
> port side as instructed. The tank is set at the correct height according
to
> the manual - in fact there is no possibility of it being anywhere else due
> to the exhaust stubs, cowlings, firewall, etc.
>
> This doesn't cause me too much of a problem - I just have to ensure I go
> flying at least once a week :-) but am curious as to whether anyone else
has
> come across this.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter
>
> mailto:peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
>
> This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
> viruses.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net> |
As I' ve just gone about setting the tailplane pitch to factory spec's of +12
Deg Up and -4 Deg down, I've got a little problem. I can get plenty of pitch down
but have cut the opening ( for the trim tab rod) all the way up to the "joggle"
where the top and bottom mate and am reluntant to go any further until I
check an see if this is normal. I would have to cut approximately another 1/2"
up into the Joggle to achieve 12 deg up. I' ve got approx 11 deg up to the botton
of the joggle. What has been the experience of some of you that have been
there before me.
Al Stills
A095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailplane Pitch |
Allan,
I too am at this stage. Welcome to the head scratching. . I am surprised we
have had to go up that high with our slots, up to the joggle, but nevertheless
the geometry of ours can be no different to anyone elses unless we have put
rear bulkheads in the wrong place which would effect the ratios and therefore
the displacement up and down of the trim tab T piece. So, when you find out I'd
like to be copied in please if you get personal replies.
Thanks
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
>
>As I' ve just gone about setting the tailplane pitch to factory spec's of
>+12 Deg Up and -4 Deg down, I've got a little problem. I can get plenty of
>pitch down but have cut the opening ( for the trim tab rod) all the way up
>to the "joggle" where the top and bottom mate and am reluntant to go any
>further until I check an see if this is normal. I would have to cut
>approximately another 1/2" up into the Joggle to achieve 12 deg up. I' ve
>got approx 11 deg up to the botton of the joggle. What has been the
>experience of some of you that have been there before me.
>
>Al Stills
>A095
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
Hi Peter,
Mine (Classic / 912) does the same, in fact it is worse since I relocated
the oil cooler beneath the gearbox. Also I find when I run at the new top
level, I lose some oil out of the tank. I assume some oil naturally drains
down to the crankcase sump when the engine stands after running. To save
time I sometimes check the oil after a flight in stead of the D. I. before
the next one.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Oil Level
>
> Hi,
>
> Just thought it was time I asked the question.
>
> Since completing my 'plane (first flight Aug. 1999) I have experienced oil
> siphoning out of the tank into (presumably) the crank case if it is left
> unused for a number of days. I used to recon on two weeks for the level on
> the dipstick to go from full to less than half way down the 'flat' on the
> stick, but with the advent of the new improved dipstick - which requires
> more oil in the tank and has a shorter 'flat' - this seems to be more like
a
> week.
>
> The system is a 'Classic' airframe with the 80hp 912 and oil tank on the
> port side as instructed. The tank is set at the correct height according
to
> the manual - in fact there is no possibility of it being anywhere else due
> to the exhaust stubs, cowlings, firewall, etc.
>
> This doesn't cause me too much of a problem - I just have to ensure I go
> flying at least once a week :-) but am curious as to whether anyone else
has
> come across this.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter
>
> mailto:peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
>
> This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
> viruses.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>Tailplane Pitch
>
Alan
I know what the book says but I always recommend 13 degrees of up and 4 or
5 down. You need the up with a monowheel to achieve a decent amount of down
pressure on the tail wheel during landing roll out. This is the most likely
reason for loss of yaw control on the ground, usually as the speed drops to
15 kts or so and the rudder is less effective.
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
It is true that the oil does siphon out of the oil tank when the engine is
shut down. So long as it can't siphon out completely to the extent that the
open end of the suction pipe in the oil tank becomes exposed, then I don't
see that it matters much.
You'll find that on most installations, the level of the oil pump/sump is
about half way up the oil tank. Thus the siphoning should stop when the
level of oil in the tank gets down to that level. That's my own experience
with periods of inactivity of four weeks or so.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Oil Level
>
> Hi,
>
> Just thought it was time I asked the question.
>
> Since completing my 'plane (first flight Aug. 1999) I have experienced oil
> siphoning out of the tank into (presumably) the crank case if it is left
> unused for a number of days. I used to recon on two weeks for the level on
> the dipstick to go from full to less than half way down the 'flat' on the
> stick, but with the advent of the new improved dipstick - which requires
> more oil in the tank and has a shorter 'flat' - this seems to be more like
a
> week.
>
> The system is a 'Classic' airframe with the 80hp 912 and oil tank on the
> port side as instructed. The tank is set at the correct height according
to
> the manual - in fact there is no possibility of it being anywhere else due
> to the exhaust stubs, cowlings, firewall, etc.
>
> This doesn't cause me too much of a problem - I just have to ensure I go
> flying at least once a week :-) but am curious as to whether anyone else
has
> come across this.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
Another solution might be to ensure the levels are correct (ie check after
flight that oil is between marks on dipstick) and then check oil when level
has dropped (ie : siphoned back into sump).
Once you know what this level is then mark the dipstick at that point (
grind a small notch using a grinding stone)
Then one can safely check the levels before flight and not risk burning your
fingers afterwards.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Davis" <peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Oil Level
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> I used to check it after each flight, and still do occasionally if really
> necessary. However, after burning my thumb and finger so often I am very
> circumspect about doing this now unless I am hanging around for an hour or
> so!
>
> The nice thing is that allowing for the level 'ups and downs' I don't seem
> to use much at all between 50 hour replacements. Nice engine, the 912.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter
>
> mailto:peterdavis(at)ntlworld.com
>
> This message has been scanned by Norton Internet Security for all known
> viruses.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> DJA727(at)aol.com
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Oil Level
>
>
> What I have done is to check the oil at the end of every flight. Since I
am
> the only one flying it, I can check the airplane the next time I fly. If
no
> oil
> is leaking, then the oil level should be OK. Looking at the level of oil
at
> start will make sense depending on how long the airplane has sat and what
> the
> level was after the last flight. One other consideration is that the
engine
> flew with the old dip stick for years. This new one is just more
> conservative, I
> think. Just keep it topped off!
>
> Dave
> A227 Mini U2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul stewart" <paul-d.stewart(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailplane Pitch |
Keep cutting!
The top of the cut out on our XS is just above the joint line between upper
and lower mouldings - ie. we had to cut into the lower moulding joggle
slightly.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Tailplane Pitch
>
> As I' ve just gone about setting the tailplane pitch to factory spec's of
+12 Deg Up and -4 Deg down, I've got a little problem. I can get plenty of
pitch down but have cut the opening ( for the trim tab rod) all the way up
to the "joggle" where the top and bottom mate and am reluntant to go any
further until I check an see if this is normal. I would have to cut
approximately another 1/2" up into the Joggle to achieve 12 deg up. I' ve
got approx 11 deg up to the botton of the joggle. What has been the
experience of some of you that have been there before me.
>
> Al Stills
> A095
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
For those who followed my paint saga you'll be pleased to know that I am
now the proud owner of a very shiny Europa! The local glider painter
delivered it back yesterday afternoon and it looks absolutely stunning.
The wings are a smooth mirror finish without a single ripple across the
entire surface.
Once I wipe this grin off my face I can get on and finish the fitout.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <europa(at)nimbus.geog.ox.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Europa adverts web pages |
Hi All,
Sorry for the long delay in getting the adverts web pages on my web site
sorted out, but I got my butt in gear and fixed it today. The adverts pages
were used quite a lot, but I had to change server from a rather slow Pentium
200 to something that is now serving about 15 sites and doing so quite
quickly!
I've had a couple of adverts emails to me recently and would appreciate it
if the senders of those adverts could try entering them via the site
(http://harley.pcl.ox.ac.uk/~mark/Europa/ads/) and let me know if there are
any problems.
As before, once an advert has been entered, it won't be shown until an email
has been sent to the email address you enter and the poster has confirmed
that email address is valid (an email will be sent with instructions).
Please feel free to place as many adverts as you like - but they must be
Europa related.
Cheers,
Mark.
(builder of kit 87, starting to feel better about life after discovering my
wings aren't as bad as I thought they were)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting 914 TCU box |
The manual notes that the TCU is to be mounted vertically on the firewall.
In my case a horizontal position would be more suitable. Does anyone know
if there is an accellerometer or anything else inside that would preclude
mounting it horizontally? Is there a horizontal installation out there?
Thanks,
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
(When is winter going to get here?!)
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mounting 914 TCU box |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
The TCU only contains a microprocessor so you can mount it anywhere that
it'll be kept cool.
The 914 installation manual does not require vertical installation. All
it requires is mounting on its shock pads and not in the engine
compartment.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting 914 TCU box |
In a message dated 8/16/2003 2:28:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
hagargs(at)earthlink.net writes:
> The manual notes that the TCU is to be mounted vertically on the firewall.
> In my case a horizontal position would be more suitable. Does anyone know
> if there is an accellerometer or anything else inside that would preclude
> mounting it horizontally? Is there a horizontal installation out there?
>
>
Mine is horizontal.
Dave
A227 Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mounting 914 TCU box |
| From: | "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Oh.. one more thing. The cables from the engine and the wastegate servo
need to able to reach it :)
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morten Lund karlsen" <mortenlund(at)tiscali.no> |
| Subject: | mono vs. trigear |
Hi all you Europa builders!
Really could need some advice frome you! I am takeing flightlessons for my
PPL (cessna 172). This is noe of my dreams comming true! I also have one
other dream, to build my own Europa...! I just can't deside which one to
build. The mono, or the tri.. I understand that the mono can bee a real
chalenge, particulary to unexperienced pilots. But I like the the mono looks
so much better than the tri! Any one out there who can help me make up my
mind? It canges from day to day.. I really don't want to build an aircraft
which I can't handle...
Regards!
Morten Lund Karlsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mono vs. trigear |
This is a question that many of the newer Europa builders have had to deal
with since the Trigear came along a little while after the Europa was on the
homebuilder market. I have had that same question nag at me all through my build
until I reached this point. I will order the main and nose gear from Europa
soon.
My points that I had to deal with were these:
1) The mono was designed with the European community in mind. The expense of
landing at a "real" airport meant that many people and clubs got together with
local farmers to use their fields at certain times. What is your situation on
airports? When was the last time you landed at anything other than an
airport? Remember, even airports with grass landing strips are usually hard packed
and smooth enough for most trikes.
2) Once you get your PPL in a 172 (like I did), you will have to continue
your training in order to become tailwheel certified. If you do I would suggest
that you also inquire about "Unusual Attitude Recovery" training. After that
course you will never worry about a spin again.
3) Even after your tailwheel training, you will need to trained on the Europa
handling. Once in the air, it flies like a dream. But on the ground it can be
a handful to those that doe not understand it's needs.
4) If there will ever come a time that you sell your precious flying machine,
you might have more of a Customer base with the Trigear.
I hope this starts your thinking process.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mono vs. trigear |
Hi Morten,
You should never make an important decision based on looks. If I wanted to
be really critical then
I would say that the Europa from underneath looks like a flying bathtub and
the monowheel
looks like a grasshopper.
But that isn't the reason for choosing the trigear. You weigh up all the
pros and cons first. The
only big advantage (apart from slightly cheaper) is its ability to land on
rough terrain, i.e. a cornfield
or on water. I have no intention of landing on either.
Monowheel disadvantages:
Very mechanical and more difficult to install and maintain.
Dirt collects in the wheelwell and has to be cleaned out.
Requires special training for handling takeoff/landing.
Large turn radius when taxiing.
Check with your insurance company if they have any statistics regarding
'incidents' with
the
monowheel.
Monowheel advantages:
Better able to land on rough strips and much better in emergencies.
Much simpler trailer.
Cheaper
Trigear disadvantages:
More expensive.
Apparently slight loss in performance, but opinions here differ.
Loss of baggage space, but you gain the space of the tunnel, which I
utilized for baggage
and air-to-ground photography with the addition of a floor window.
Is heavier.
Trailer design more involved.
Trigear advantages:
Easy to install. Can be done at an early stage and it can then be used as
the main support and for
moving the fuselage around the workshop.
Maintenance virtually nil.
Landings/takeoffs are a doddle. I think that even rough fields are not a
problem if you treat them
like soft fields, i.e. land slow with the nose a little higher than normal.
Tighter turn radius on the ground.
Those are the main points. There are many others. Two more points to
consider:
1) A number of mono builders have converted or are converting to trigear, I
have not heard of
one case going the other way.
2) If I were in your position I would take a close look at Bob Berube's
solution for a taildragger.
I my opinion that is the way to go, because it combines the best of both
worlds, is easy to
install, takes away no baggage space, and it looks good.
Hope that helps, Karl
>From: "Morten Lund karlsen" <mortenlund(at)tiscali.no>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: mono vs. trigear
>Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 19:13:31 +0200
>
>
>
>Hi all you Europa builders!
>
>Really could need some advice frome you! I am takeing flightlessons for my
>PPL (cessna 172). This is noe of my dreams comming true! I also have one
>other dream, to build my own Europa...! I just can't deside which one to
>build. The mono, or the tri.. I understand that the mono can bee a real
>chalenge, particulary to unexperienced pilots. But I like the the mono
>looks
>so much better than the tri! Any one out there who can help me make up my
>mind? It canges from day to day.. I really don't want to build an aircraft
>which I can't handle...
>
>Regards!
>
>Morten Lund Karlsen
>
>
Tired of 56k? Get a FREE BT Broadband connection
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/btbroadband
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net> |
To all who answered.a hearty thanks. I guess Tony and I are not the only ones with
this problem and quite a few had to cut up into the joggle a little bit. I've
been advised not to finish up right now but wait until the top is on to finish
the cut which I think will go approx: 1/2" into the joint of the top and
bottom for the 12 deg. I'm approx 11.25 now just below the joggle. Tony, you and
I are about the same. I'm building a tri-gear so think the factory specs of
+12 -4 will do, although I have about -8 on the bottom side.Sorry for so late
a post in answering as have been off the network for 2 days..thanks again. BTW
if a little appreshensive about the strength of the joint, after joining togeather
I can always lay up a couple of pieces of bid across the area. (suggestion
by Steve Hager who had to do the same). I guess not all "Kits" are identical.
Al Stills
A095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>From: "Tony S. Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
>For those who followed my paint saga you'll be pleased to know that I am
>now the proud owner of a very shiny Europa! The local glider painter
>delivered it back yesterday afternoon and it looks absolutely stunning.
>The wings are a smooth mirror finish without a single ripple across the
>entire surface.
>
>Once I wipe this grin off my face I can get on and finish the fitout.
>
>Tony
Delighted to hear about the grin. We all need it some days! What paint did
the glider wizard use? Be nice to know what she weighs when you finish
adding built in headwinds? (Heavy instruments you probably won't need!)
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph J. Like" <josephlike(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mono vs. trigear |
For the US there is a third option. A conventional gear. Bob at flight crafters
has
a realy nice conventional gear mod that several builders went with before it even
flew. Bob's has flown and the design has proven itself. But the UK might not
approve
of his mod.
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> This is a question that many of the newer Europa builders have had to deal
> with since the Trigear came along a little while after the Europa was on the
> homebuilder market. I have had that same question nag at me all through my build
> until I reached this point. I will order the main and nose gear from Europa
> soon.
> My points that I had to deal with were these:
> 1) The mono was designed with the European community in mind. The expense of
> landing at a "real" airport meant that many people and clubs got together with
> local farmers to use their fields at certain times. What is your situation on
> airports? When was the last time you landed at anything other than an
> airport? Remember, even airports with grass landing strips are usually hard packed
> and smooth enough for most trikes.
> 2) Once you get your PPL in a 172 (like I did), you will have to continue
> your training in order to become tailwheel certified. If you do I would suggest
> that you also inquire about "Unusual Attitude Recovery" training. After that
> course you will never worry about a spin again.
> 3) Even after your tailwheel training, you will need to trained on the Europa
> handling. Once in the air, it flies like a dream. But on the ground it can be
> a handful to those that doe not understand it's needs.
> 4) If there will ever come a time that you sell your precious flying machine,
> you might have more of a Customer base with the Trigear.
>
> I hope this starts your thinking process.
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Trigear
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Attention Steve Dunsmuir |
>
Attention Steve Dunsmuir,
Sorry to have to use the list but I have bounced mail and this is the only way
to get the message through.
Steve,
Yesterday I sent you a picture of my setup for my trim T piece slots. I used
the reply button to your personal e-mail to me, so I believe I have the right
address. Would you mind e-mailing me again so that I can verify address, and
for info the returned mail stated.....Permanent Fatal Errors.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
>
> from mail023.syd.optusnet.com.au [210.49.20.162]
>
> ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
>
> (reason: 554-(RLY:B1) The information presently available to AOL
> indicates this)
>
> ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> 554 5.0.0 Service unavailable
> Reporting-MTA: dns; fallbackmx01.syd.optusnet.com.au
> Arrival-Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 18:52:00 +1000
>
> Final-Recipient: RFC822; ScramIt(at)aol.com
> Action: failed
> Status: 5.5.0
> Remote-MTA: DNS; mailin-02.mx.aol.com
> Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 554-(RLY:B1) The information presently available to
> AOL indicates this
> Last-Attempt-Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 23:02:07 +1000
> Return-Path:
> Received: from mail023.syd.optusnet.com.au (mail023.syd.optusnet.com.au
> [210.49.20.162])
> by fallbackmx01.syd.optusnet.com.au (8.11.6p2/8.10.1) with ESMTP id
> h7H8q0X02810
> Received: from SONY (c211-28-252-210.thorn1.nsw.optusnet.com.au
> [211.28.252.210])
> by mail023.syd.optusnet.com.au (8.11.6p2/8.11.6) with SMTP id
> h7H8ohh17762
> Message-Id: <4.1.20030817183651.00f5c938(at)mail.optusnet.com.au>
> X-Sender: tonyrenshaw(at)mail.optusnet.com.au
> X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.1
> Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 18:50:40 +1000
> To: ScramIt(at)aol.com
> From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
> Subject: Re: Tailplane pitch
> In-Reply-To: <149.17010e81.2c6fa87c(at)aol.com>
> Mime-Version: 1.0
>
> Steve,
> Thanks for the offer to compare with yours. Here is the requested photo. I
> look forward to your comparison and some dimensions. My dimensions should be
> clear from the photo, but just in case they aren't, my slot ends 55 mm from
> the top of the joggle, and 210 mm respectively.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
>>
>> I went out to look at my setup, I can't imagine having to slot up to the
>> joggle. I have the slots cut per plans a can range greater than +12 -4.
>> Please send photo's with a ruler in them. Something sounds very wrong. I
>> will post any pictures you guys need on my site"
>> http://homepage.mac.com/sdunsmuir/Europa.html
>> In the back of the boat section.
>> Send PICS of what you want to see and I will match your photos with my
>> setup.
>>
>> Hope I can help,
>> SteveD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Mansfeld" <ian_mansfeld(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mono vs. trigear |
Morten,
I may as well add something to your problem. With a few hundred hours total
and over a hundred on taildraggers, I bought a Europa Classic last year. It
was bought with the intention to convert to a conventional taildragger using
the swiss carbon fibre leg (looks are not quite as nice as Bob Berubes, but
not bad). Before committing to the conversion, I flew about 40 hours,
including the 'differences' training. I have to say that in all those
flights, the aircraft was superb in the air, but I never ever looked forward
to the landing. I never experienced a problem, but I did restrict myself
initially to 5 knots of crosswind, eventually building to 7 knots. I found
this to be quite restrictive.
The conversion work is now finished, awaiting PFA approval, so I have only
flown a few test flights. The aircraft handles better on the ground (with
individual wheel brakes), and take-off and landing (now with full flap
available) are 'normal' taildragger. In flight, the few knots of cruise
speed that I have lost will be recovered by fitting leg fairings and
eventually a 'speed' kit.
I tend to favour taildraggers over tri-gear, but I can see that the mono may
have benefits if you expect to operate from short or rough strips. The
tri-gear will be a much more straightforward for a 'new' pilot, and more
forgiving when you are out of practice after months of bad weather.
Have fun deciding!
Ian.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Morten Lund karlsen" <mortenlund(at)tiscali.no>
Subject: Europa-List: mono vs. trigear
>
> Hi all you Europa builders!
>
> Really could need some advice frome you! I am takeing flightlessons for my
> PPL (cessna 172). This is noe of my dreams comming true! I also have one
> other dream, to build my own Europa...! I just can't deside which one to
> build. The mono, or the tri.. I understand that the mono can bee a real
> chalenge, particulary to unexperienced pilots. But I like the the mono
looks
> so much better than the tri! Any one out there who can help me make up my
> mind? It canges from day to day.. I really don't want to build an aircraft
> which I can't handle...
>
> Regards!
>
> Morten Lund Karlsen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morten Lund karlsen" <mortenlund(at)tiscali.no> |
| Subject: | Re: mono vs. trigear |
Hi again!
Thank you all for your comments! I really think I will go for the Trigear. I
don't think I will be landing at unprepered farmers fields very often so...
Any known problems with fitting the tri-undercarrige??
Morten
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DaveBuzz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mono vs. trigear |
Hello Morten,
The main reason you dont hear much from monowheel fliers is because we are all
off enjoying ourselves so much! There are dozens, probably over a hundred, monos
flying worldwide now and yes, some have been converted to tri/conventional
taildragger, but the rest are happily flying around quietly, quickly and cheaply
and giving their owners a great deal of (aviation) pleasure.
Yes, it can be interesting on landing/takeoff with certain wind conditions,
thats where experience comes into it (there are a few first time fliers who built,
learnt on and still operate their mono) but I have NEVER come to the end
of a flight and worried that I might have difficulties on landing.
My 912, 80Hp classic mono is great: I decided with my heart, bought somehow..
and operate it with my head (and feet!) and can honestly say that I have never
had so much fun as these last three weekends flying, especially yesterday coming
back to the UK from Switzerland via Lichtenstein, Austria, Germany and France;
2 stops and 5 hours flying.
The only recommendation I can make is: Join the Europa Club (www.europaclub.org.uk) and meet up with people who have gone through a similar decision as you are now considering.
All the best,
dave bosomworth
kit67
g-bxum
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | mono vs. trigear |
| From: | "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com> |
Morten,
When building the trigear make sure the alignment of the wheels is such
that they are absolutely parallel when the plane is at gross weight. If
the alignment isn't perfect you'll have difficulty in taxiing and you'll
wear the tires out very quickly. Regretfully, my trigear has 2 inches
of "toe out" (front of wheel versus back of wheel), and there is no
known fix. Consequently I wear out tires every 40 hours and when
taxiing I dance on the rudder pedals like walking on hot coals.
Do try to get it right the first time!
Garry V. Stout, N4220S
From: Morten Lund karlsen [mailto:mortenlund(at)tiscali.no]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: mono vs. trigear
Thank you all for your comments! I really think I will go for the
Trigear. I
don't think I will be landing at unprepered farmers fields very often
so...
Any known problems with fitting the tri-undercarrige??
Morten
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mono vs. trigear |
Hi Gary,
I'm building a Trigear and have not heard about this problem. I'm about to
put in the cockpit module, so I have some time before I get my wheels.
Some questions:
How difficult is it to get the right amount of "toe"?
Are the directions that come with the conversion kit well written?
Is there anything to draw upon in the archives?
Does the toe change when going from single person, no baggage, low fuel to
gross weight?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | mono vs. trigear |
Hi! All Trike interested Builders.
Yes, the toe in requirements are very important, but they are set with the
aircraft suspended so the ultimate MTOW dramatically changes the setting .
For my experiences, currently on my 3rd set of tyres in 462 landings mostly
on hard runways, IMHO the setting ought to be reviewed to provide a more
suitable setting say with zero fuel and solo weight fully rigged with the
engine fitted.
I'm not qualified to make statements as to what this should be, but
certainly different to the original scheme of things, although no doubt I
will have some questions as to how accurate mine was set!
It would also not be impossible to have a modification allowing some future
adjustment perhaps. (A system in which the gear leg bolt locating hole could
be slotted with differing inserts to accommodate the securring bolt
providing for a maximum loaded minimum toe in setting)
Obviously such a system would need to clearly be within the safe minimum
range with no fuel and solo set up.
Just for the record, although my a/c was constructed as main gear
"convertible", in spite of the tyre wear problem I can't envisage it ever
been used by me in the mono configuration! Other than should it ever be for
sale it has that facility to a wider "punter" interest!
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | mono vs. trigear |
| From: | "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com> |
Well said Bob. I've inquired of the factory as to possible "fixes" to
the alignment problem, but they haven't come up with anything yet.
Clearly the gear legs must be set with the A/C at average take off
weight. Mine like yours, eats up tires, averaging about 60 hours per
set. The only solution I can see is to buy a new set of gear legs,
which I am loath to do.
Regards,
Garry V. Stout
-----Original Message-----
From: R.C.Harrison [mailto:ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk]
Hi! All Trike interested Builders.
Yes, the toe in requirements are very important, but they are set with
the
aircraft suspended so the ultimate MTOW dramatically changes the setting
.
For my experiences, currently on my 3rd set of tyres in 462 landings
mostly
on hard runways, IMHO the setting ought to be reviewed to provide a more
suitable setting say with zero fuel and solo weight fully rigged with
the
engine fitted.
I'm not qualified to make statements as to what this should be, but
certainly different to the original scheme of things, although no doubt
I
will have some questions as to how accurate mine was set!
It would also not be impossible to have a modification allowing some
future
adjustment perhaps. (A system in which the gear leg bolt locating hole
could
be slotted with differing inserts to accommodate the securring bolt
providing for a maximum loaded minimum toe in setting)
Obviously such a system would need to clearly be within the safe
minimum
range with no fuel and solo set up.
Just for the record, although my a/c was constructed as main gear
"convertible", in spite of the tyre wear problem I can't envisage it
ever
been used by me in the mono configuration! Other than should it ever be
for
sale it has that facility to a wider "punter" interest!
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube. |
Hi! All.
Would all concerned advise me of any incidents of nose wheel puncture that
didn't show damage within the tyre wall? ie:- if an item had penetrated the
rolling diameter or wall I don't want to know. But if the tube showed signs
of self fretting on a fold or pinch let me know because I'm looking at
statistics of the fact.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube. |
I've had that problem (three times in a 500x5 wheels), but it wasn't a fold
in the tube nor obvious fretting. Probable cause was cheap, thin-walled
Taiwanese tubes made of a not-very-recognisable type of rubber. Does rubber
fatigue-fail? I was also running at nominally 25 psi, but down to 20 psi.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
> Hi! All.
> Would all concerned advise me of any incidents of nose wheel puncture that
> didn't show damage within the tyre wall? ie:- if an item had penetrated
the
> rolling diameter or wall I don't want to know. But if the tube showed
signs
> of self fretting on a fold or pinch let me know because I'm looking at
> statistics of the fact.
>
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube. |
Don't malign the Taiwanese. Those el-cheapos come from the Peoples Republic
of China.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
I've had that problem (three times in a 500x5 wheels), but it wasn't a fold
in the tube nor obvious fretting. Probable cause was cheap, thin-walled
Taiwanese tubes made of a not-very-recognisable type of rubber. Does rubber
fatigue-fail? I was also running at nominally 25 psi, but down to 20 psi.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
> Hi! All.
> Would all concerned advise me of any incidents of nose wheel puncture that
> didn't show damage within the tyre wall? ie:- if an item had penetrated
the
> rolling diameter or wall I don't want to know. But if the tube showed
signs
> of self fretting on a fold or pinch let me know because I'm looking at
> statistics of the fact.
>
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net> |
To all who already have built the tri gear and are having tire problems...could
one of you measure the difference between the front and back of the tire.(outside
tire to outside tire) I'm almost ready to glass in my axle's and would not
want it to be too far out. I'll call the factory rep and see what he says b-4
I put in.
Al Stills
A095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray M. Knapp" <rmkhomes(at)charter.net> |
Hey all you smart Europa builders -
I've not had time to start my kit yet (XS #196), but recently
spent a week on a remote Canadian lake and yearned for the ability to
once again land on water. My shoot from the hip thoughts:
1. Build the kit with tricyle gear
2. Design floats ala Wipline (or purchase other similar floats
commonly used by light planes)
3. Modify so that in effect you could drive the Europa up onto
the floats, recess the gear into attachment wells, lock in place,
connect water rudder control, and go.
4. Amphib floats would require connection to a gear
extension/retraction cable/rod.
or, could it be done?
5. Leave wheels passing far enough through the floats to serve
as hard surface gear, and attach "wheel pants" to the floats forward of
the gear which could deploy rearward to cover the wheels and fair them
in for water landings.
Of course you'd pay a weight penalty, but only similarly to a
Piper Cub, Cessna etc. which are commonly used in this manner. Use of
the glider wings might enhance operation from water (the reputed STOL
factor) but the company website doesn't seem to publish a slower stall
speed for the glider wings, so just guessing.
I can't be the only one out there who has wished for amphib
ability, but I queried the Forum archives and couldn't find where you
guys have beat this idea to death and demonstrated why the idea is
utterly foolish.
OK, you can beat me up now. Ray Knapp
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Slot Height dilemna?????????? |
Allan, etc.
Steve Dunsmuir and my local guru didn't have to go up into the fuse joining
rebate to get the required 12-13 degrees of movement. Don't cut up into there
until we can find out why others have different geometry!! I think the botom
line is in the trim system as the datums of "centre of rotation" (centre of
torque tube) and trim tab hinge point are fairly rigid datums. Therefore the
ideal slot size from Europa can't be "that wrong". The bulkhead distance aft at
1 1/4" as I recall was also not hard to set up, so the problem must be
elsewhere. Any takers????
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
P.S. I know that 1 1/4" mightn't be right, but a short walk to the manual will
clarify, and whatever it said is where mine is at.
>
>To all who already have built the tri gear and are having tire
>problems...could one of you measure the difference between the front and
>back of the tire.(outside tire to outside tire) I'm almost ready to glass
>in my axle's and would not want it to be too far out. I'll call the factory
>rep and see what he says b-4 I put in.
>
>Al Stills
>A095
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | mono vs. trigear |
>From: "STOUT, GARRY V, CSFF2" <garrys(at)att.com>
>Well said Bob. I've inquired of the factory as to possible "fixes" to
>the alignment problem, but they haven't come up with anything yet.
>Clearly the gear legs must be set with the A/C at average take off
>weight. Mine like yours, eats up tires, averaging about 60 hours per
>set. The only solution I can see is to buy a new set of gear legs,
>which I am loath to do.
>Garry V. Stout
I haven't read the tri gear manual so this is ALL guesswork but my
suggestion is to determine first, from those already completed and flying,
how much does the gear leg rotate from relaxed to fully loaded. The factory
should know this already, Neville would be the man to ask.
Next decide on the correct loaded toe in, I would guess 1/2 degree, but I
would lean towards zero because any deflection in or out will cause rolling
drag, tire wear etc. Ever noticed how some airplanes are harder to push
around than others? Especially noticeable on smooth polished floors. Again
take the best advice, Andy I suppose, he knows about EZs too so he's coming
from a good place!
Some of the EZ boys suggest an interesting test is to lift a wheel so it
relaxes then lower it gently and measure distance between the wheels, push
the airplane forward a few meters, measure again. It can be surpising how
much it changes. This is easier than measuring toe in. The only accurate
datum is the rim of the wheel, tires vary too much.
I would make a simple jig and fix a small laser to it, the kind the clips
onto your spirit level? then rig up a sight board 20 feet in front of the
airplane and calculate toe in from the distance between the spots and the
wheels.
Hope this helps
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Europa Aircraft" <europa(at)gate.net> |
| Subject: | Email problems at the Lakeland, FL office |
Hi all,
If you wish to contact the Lakeland, FL office please do not use email for
the next few weeks. I would suggest calling, or faxing instead. Our email
address is currently under attack from a computer, or computers infected
with the W32.Sobig.F@mm virus.
While the virus is not infecting our computer, we are receiving 100's of
emails an hour from the infected computer. It is becoming impossible to
sort through the garbage to find a real message.
Also, it is likely that someone from europaland has this virus on there
computer. I would ask that everyone please use a virus scanner (they are
cheap) or many of the free utilities on the web to remove any viruses from
your computer. In addition to making life miserable for everyone that your
computer is attacking, your computer is now being hacked by whoever wrote
this program. They have access to all your files, and personal info on your
machine. Many viruses are designed to harvest information for various fraud
schemes etc...
Protect yourself!!!
John Hurst
Europa Aircraft
Lakeland, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Slot Height dilemna?????????? |
Tony et al:
I had a quick look in passing, and guess my slots stop about 1/2" below the
joggle - and I have 13deg of travel. I can send all my calcs for this
exercise as I mathed the travel angles through from the trim motor.
Ferg
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 11:35 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: Trim Tab Slot Height dilemna??????????
>
>
>
> |
> | Allan, etc.
> | Steve Dunsmuir and my local guru didn't have to go up into the fuse
> joining
> | rebate to get the required 12-13 degrees of movement. Don't cut up into
> there
> | until we can find out why others have different geometry!! I think the
> botom
> | line is in the trim system as the datums of "centre of rotation" (centre
> of
> | torque tube) and trim tab hinge point are fairly rigid datums. Therefore
> the
> | ideal slot size from Europa can't be "that wrong". The bulkhead distance
> aft at
> | 1 1/4" as I recall was also not hard to set up, so the problem must be
> | elsewhere. Any takers????
> | Reg
> | Tony Renshaw
> | Sydney Australia
> | P.S. I know that 1 1/4" mightn't be right, but a short walk to the
manual
> will
> | clarify, and whatever it said is where mine is at.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube. |
These ones have 'Made in Taiwan' molded in. Or am I missing your point?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
> Don't malign the Taiwanese. Those el-cheapos come from the Peoples
Republic
> of China.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
>
>
> I've had that problem (three times in a 500x5 wheels), but it wasn't a
fold
> in the tube nor obvious fretting. Probable cause was cheap, thin-walled
> Taiwanese tubes made of a not-very-recognisable type of rubber. Does
rubber
> fatigue-fail? I was also running at nominally 25 psi, but down to 20 psi.
>
>
> Duncan McF.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
> To: "Europa Matronic Circuit"
> Subject: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi! All.
> > Would all concerned advise me of any incidents of nose wheel puncture
that
> > didn't show damage within the tyre wall? ie:- if an item had penetrated
> the
> > rolling diameter or wall I don't want to know. But if the tube showed
> signs
> > of self fretting on a fold or pinch let me know because I'm looking at
> > statistics of the fact.
> >
> > Regards
> > Bob Harrison G-PTAG
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Monowheel Brake fluid? |
Can Dot 5 Silicon Brake fluid be used in an Europa Monowheel?
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube. |
I must have been thinking of the inner tube I bought when I chopped the
first one full of holes the first time I joined the two halves of the nose
wheel. When I found out that a Goodyear TUBE would have cost me almost as
much as a new Michelin TIRE for my car, I bought the cheap stuff.
Fortunately I learned how to mount the wheel without damaging the tube.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
These ones have 'Made in Taiwan' molded in. Or am I missing your point?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
> Don't malign the Taiwanese. Those el-cheapos come from the Peoples
Republic
> of China.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
>
>
> I've had that problem (three times in a 500x5 wheels), but it wasn't a
fold
> in the tube nor obvious fretting. Probable cause was cheap, thin-walled
> Taiwanese tubes made of a not-very-recognisable type of rubber. Does
rubber
> fatigue-fail? I was also running at nominally 25 psi, but down to 20 psi.
>
>
> Duncan McF.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
> To: "Europa Matronic Circuit"
> Subject: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi! All.
> > Would all concerned advise me of any incidents of nose wheel puncture
that
> > didn't show damage within the tyre wall? ie:- if an item had penetrated
> the
> > rolling diameter or wall I don't want to know. But if the tube showed
> signs
> > of self fretting on a fold or pinch let me know because I'm looking at
> > statistics of the fact.
> >
> > Regards
> > Bob Harrison G-PTAG
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairings |
Trying to install the factory fairings on XS wing. I find the fairings don't fit
very well - almost like the radius of the curve is too great which leaves a
large (10mm) gap between the fairing and the fuselage. Has anyone got a solution
or good way to fit these?
Thanks
Jim & Heather A185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Fairings |
Jim:
That seems to be typical. Mine are like that also. If you are describing
the fact that the curve of the fairing stops at a point greater than
perpindicular to the wing surface. The edge of the fairing curves away from
the fuselage surface. I have them mounted on the wings with a gap present
at this point. The fix that has been mentioned as the "hot setup"so to
speak is to acquire a 2 X 4 and a heat gun. The plank is used to push the
fairing to the desired shape while the it is heated with the gun. The
fiberglass is supposed to soften and yield to the applied pressure. I
haven't tried this yet but 2 people have related this procedure to me.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Jim Butcher <europa(at)triton.net>
> To:
> Date: 8/20/03 5:16:45 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: Wing Root Fairings
>
>
> Trying to install the factory fairings on XS wing. I find the fairings
don't fit very well - almost like the radius of the curve is too great
which leaves a large (10mm) gap between the fairing and the fuselage. Has
anyone got a solution or good way to fit these?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim & Heather A185
>
>
>
>
>
--- Steve Hagar
--- hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Root Fairings |
Jim,
I had this problem and I ended up putting cuts on the side that bonds onto
the wing to allow it to move up close to the fuselage. I then reduxed it
and held it all in place with small self tapping screws which I removed
after the redux set. I latter put some bid along the whole thing to cover
the area that I put the slits in.
When you get to the final filling Neville gave me the tip of putting some
cloth on the transition between the fairing and the wing to stop the seam
line printing through your final finish. It worked, my wings are painted
and you cant see the transition at all.
Cheers, Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Wing Root Fairings
>
> Trying to install the factory fairings on XS wing. I find the fairings
don't fit very well - almost like the radius of the curve is too great which
leaves a large (10mm) gap between the fairing and the fuselage. Has anyone
got a solution or good way to fit these?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim & Heather A185
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube. |
Hi! Rob.
Are you saying that you can actually get a Goodyear tube that fits the nose
wheel? If this is so please provide details and source? I'd prefer to change
mine since I'm convinced that the original tube I have is too large when
fitted correctly , on inflation the slight oversize of tube material has to
go somewhere resulting in small folds in the walls which flex and self wear.
The UK supplier agrees that there seems to be a problem ,having done a trial
assembly , but says there is no other source. BTW out of interest to other
"listers" my a/c although it has never flown with the mono system was
constructed to take either/or system of main gear.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Housman
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
I must have been thinking of the inner tube I bought when I chopped the
first one full of holes the first time I joined the two halves of the nose
wheel. When I found out that a Goodyear TUBE would have cost me almost as
much as a new Michelin TIRE for my car, I bought the cheap stuff.
Fortunately I learned how to mount the wheel without damaging the tube.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
These ones have 'Made in Taiwan' molded in. Or am I missing your point?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
> Don't malign the Taiwanese. Those el-cheapos come from the Peoples
Republic
> of China.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
>
>
> I've had that problem (three times in a 500x5 wheels), but it wasn't a
fold
> in the tube nor obvious fretting. Probable cause was cheap, thin-walled
> Taiwanese tubes made of a not-very-recognisable type of rubber. Does
rubber
> fatigue-fail? I was also running at nominally 25 psi, but down to 20 psi.
>
>
> Duncan McF.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk>
> To: "Europa Matronic Circuit"
> Subject: Europa-List: Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube.
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi! All.
> > Would all concerned advise me of any incidents of nose wheel puncture
that
> > didn't show damage within the tyre wall? ie:- if an item had penetrated
> the
> > rolling diameter or wall I don't want to know. But if the tube showed
> signs
> > of self fretting on a fold or pinch let me know because I'm looking at
> > statistics of the fact.
> >
> > Regards
> > Bob Harrison G-PTAG
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Slot Height dilemna?? |
>
>Tony et al:
>I had a quick look in passing, and guess my slots stop about 1/2" below the
> joggle - and I have 13deg of travel. I can send all my calcs for this
> exercise as I mathed the travel angles through from the trim motor.
> Ferg
There's one other thing to watch out for, at least on early Classics; with
the elevator in full up position and the trim at full nose up, check that
the Tee bar doesn't strike the end of its own bellcrank. I think this was
caused by the Mac servo being a bit low and may have been corrected later
in the plans?
Graham
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
FOR SALE
Michael Engineering Sticky-stuff-Dispenser (the one Europa supplies). New
2000, Very good condition, very low mileage - one Europa, One owner,
Reason for sale - its work is (thank goodness) done.
Offers invited
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI
37 Willowmead Close, Woking, Surrey, GU21 3DN, UK
Tel 01483 714096
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <europa(at)nimbus.geog.ox.ac.uk> |
G-IANI wrote:
>
> FOR SALE
>
> Michael Engineering Sticky-stuff-Dispenser (the one Europa supplies).
> New 2000, Very good condition, very low mileage - one Europa, One
> owner, Reason for sale - its work is (thank goodness) done.
>
> Offers invited
How about 150? I'm based near Oxford.
Cheers,
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
I must be in the wrong business. Second hand Resin pumps are obviously a
very hot property. Sorry but it was gone inside 20 minutes.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
europa(at)nimbus.geog.ox.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Resin Pump
G-IANI wrote:
>
> FOR SALE
>
> Michael Engineering Sticky-stuff-Dispenser (the one Europa supplies).
> New 2000, Very good condition, very low mileage - one Europa, One
> owner, Reason for sale - its work is (thank goodness) done.
>
> Offers invited
How about 150? I'm based near Oxford.
Cheers,
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trike Nose Wheel Tyre and tube. |
Perhaps your observation about the tube being a bit too big is the reason
that I managed to mangle mine the first time I did the assembly (or perhaps
I'm looking for an excuse for my clumsiness).
Your query got me digging into my Aircraft Spruce catalog which confirmed
the source of my confusion. Although the catalog lists "Tires & Tubes" with
a description that mentions both Goodyear and Shin in the same sentence,
July 18, 2003 - August 21, 2003
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-dh