Europa-Archive.digest.vol-du
April 11, 2004 - April 27, 2004
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Repainting the mini U2 |
>Europa-List message posted by: "Dave Anderson"
> > As a result of finish coat failure (a HUGE, long story), I am starting to
>experiment with removing my paint and repainting the airplane. I have UV
>smooth prime underneath for the UV protection and after today's trial
>sanding it is clear the paint will come off fine, but I will not be able to
>avoid doing the entire job over again. I can't leave the primer underneath
>and get thte finish coat off.
I'm no expert painter but I do have some experience, repainted my Long EZ
twice! (first time it blistered after 3 years) I have been as disappointed
as any with the performance of the water based paints. Even the car makers
can't get it to work properly all the time.
The best primer I ever found is SP Systems Hibuild epoxy. It is grey or
white and sands almost as easy as Smoothprime. SP make the Ampreg resin we
use in the UK and also are heavily involved in building big racing Cats and
Trimarans. They have plenty of practical experience.
For final top coat I use PPG Deltron base white. I avoid straight urethane,
too hard to repair. Paints designed for cars have good UV performance, as I
understand it, the top coat needs UV protection for itself. Quality car
paint will be OK.
A few observations;
Blistering is probably caused by contamination from human skin, so wear
surgical gloves when handling the airplane and wash with alkaline cleaner
before starting painting, might be worth washing with vinegar too to get
rid of any amine blush. Polyfiber sell one.
Another cause of blistering is condensation in the spray gun. Good water
trapping is essential. At least two traps in series my local expert says.
Pay the local expert to put the final coat on? Every time I come to paint
an airplane I've forgotten half of what I learned!
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
Hi,
Can some kind person e-mail me the fitting instructions for the naca vents
please?
thanks
Simon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Naca Vents info now received |
Now received thanks to Ian Rickard.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Simon Smith
Subject: Europa-List: Naca Vents
Hi,
Can some kind person e-mail me the fitting instructions for the naca vents
please?
thanks
Simon
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Naca Vents info now received |
Are these items available on the forum or website? Can other people get them
for when they have to do the same job?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Conventional gear assembled and soon to be fitted.
But first.....To Sun-N-Fun!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing bottom Mass Bal holes not aligned properly |
>My concern is that the horn close out will not fit properly and impede final
>closing of the wing
Brian - I found that in my starboard wing (only one I've tackled so
far) the indent did not line up with where my outboard aileron horn
actually was. The word from Neville at the factory was to move the
indent laterally by (a) carefully removing the top layer of glass and
the brown foam back to the desired new line, finishing with a taper
matching other sides of the depression; (b) laying in a patch of BID
extending an inch beyond the area of foam removal. See my online
journal of 2003 05 09 at <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/> for
full details.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 660 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
I have seen some references to the "orifice" in the return fuel line. I have what
looks to be one of these in the bottom of one of the many cardboard boxes
in the garage. Since it is in the box its not in the airplane's fuel system.
I don't recollect seeing references to it in any instructions. Does the 914
need this, I believe the return fuel pressure regulator should take care of
any of the return chores?
Steve Hagar
A143 Mesa, AZ
Steve Hagar
hagargs(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drop of the Hat |
Hi
Half a dozen drop hatters attended the Henstridge Fly-In today and very nice
it was. At least until Paddy told me that, at 240 hours on my 912s, I am
getting close to maybe having to spend the best part of =A3800 or =A3900 on a
new
sprag clutch and uprated starter sometime soon!
All the best
Rick
G-RIKS 912s Trike
240 hours & saving.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Drop of the Hat |
Airwolf do them for USD275.
http://www.800-airwolf.com/
Order now and keep as spare? Someone is bound to need it; but hope it isn't
me!
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: <RMRRick(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Drop of the Hat
>
> Hi
> Half a dozen drop hatters attended the Henstridge Fly-In today and very
nice
> it was. At least until Paddy told me that, at 240 hours on my 912s, I am
> getting close to maybe having to spend the best part of =A3800 or =A3900
on a new
> sprag clutch and uprated starter sometime soon!
> All the best
> Rick
> G-RIKS 912s Trike
> 240 hours & saving.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drop of the Hat |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Rick Hi again! Nice to see you both at Henstridge
>At least until Paddy told me that, at 240 hours on my 912s, I am
> getting close to maybe having to spend the best part of 800 or 900 on a
> new sprag clutch and uprated starter sometime soon!
This situation was mentioned to make you and others aware that starting a
912S relies on efficient Sprag clutch and starter action and to be beware if
Engine 'fires back' fiercely and repeatedly that this might be the start of
stress on that Sprag clutch. The symptoms start with poor or delayed
starting which at first gives impression of poor cranking power from
Battery. In fact it's the Starter Sprag clutch slipping and not allowing
start to spin to firing speed. That condition only seems to take a few hours
to deteoriate and starts at about 200+ HOURS in some cases.
It may be possible to repair Sprag Clutch and I'm sure Paddy will respond in
his own right on this.
Whilst the Aircraft was unserviceable with this problem it seemed wisest to
replace clutch and probably a Rotax up rated Starter Motor isn't strictly
necessary. Paddy elected to fit the up rated Starter and the starting cycle
is awesome! It really does crank to the fastest start I've seen.
A friend with a Banbi (MCR001) experienced this problem first last year and
was the originator of the exhaustive investigation into the problem on his
912S by official Rotax UK Dealer taking a fair few weeks.
The 8.5:1 Compression of 912 and 914 are a reduced starter 'task' and should
be OK. 10:1 of 912S really exhibits it's compression 'kick' at shutdown or
aborted start cycle.
It will be interesting to see what trend develops as more and more 912S
Europa's gain hours. The Europa is a good 'benchmark' as everyone seems to
be always flying whenever they can! Let's hope Rotax are monitoring the
situation too.
All this is IMHO
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Fuselage being Painted, Wings ready to paint, Flying surfaces painted
Airframe Wiring complete, Full Size Panel 60% done .
Includes Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder. AoA Fitted.
Activity on Panel, Designing Heater Unit, Shoulder Width Mod.
http://www.g-fizy.com
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Repainting the mini U2 |
In a message dated 4/9/2004 11:32:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dja767(at)charter.net writes:
> Here is the question: Does anybody know if there is another option for
> priming with a UV protection that is not UV smooth prime ( seems everyone uses
> that stuff)? Also, since it has been over a year since I painted and I have a
> gallon left over, does anybody know what the shelf life of that stuff is? I
> have purchased a quart and am going to experiment with different items to paint
> to see if i can get a smooth finish.
Hi Dave,
Check out Autoclor primer and Sikkens 2 part urethane for the topcoat. This
is what we use for sailplane refinish and it is some amazing stuff. It's very
easy to work with, offers excellent UV protection, buffs to a mirror shine and
is very easily repaired should you ever get scratches and scrapes. It is a bit
pricey, though. Contact me off list and I can put you in touch with our
refinish guru if you're interested.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (cockpit painting completed with silver/gray Zolatone. Next task is
wiring after Sun-n-Fun)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Throttle Position in Classic Module |
Gidday,
I am unrestricted in the positioning of my throttle due to being a
taildragger, but I'd like to know if there is opinion about changing the
throttle position to be somewhat more forward. I know of one mono builder
who used factory dimensions and had to modify the underside of his throttle
quadrant to clear his wheel. I
recoginise the panel is the limitation then, being able to have adaquate
clearance from the panel at full power for knuckles/knobs etc. So, is the
standard way to go the only way???
Reg
Tony R.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Paul,
Can you please tell me if your 914 throttle is the same as the 912s?? To
help clarify, and as I know you have the raised throttle quadrant for the
XS module, did you make up the throttle box? I imagine it is the same 180
mm long, 40 wide, 90 mm up to the centre of the radius of the 25 mm arc for
the curve??
I am trying to locate my throttle, and to also know whether the throttle
box I made up is OK for the 914 if I go down that path. Also, would you
mind telling me how far the slot is aft of the firewall or panel, to the
front or back of the throtttle slot please? Hope all your work is going
well, Europa work that is.
Reg
Tony R.
At 03:27 PM 3/22/2004, you wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I know this is an old topic, but I have a faint smell of auto gas in my
>Europa. I have replaced the elbow with an aluminum one and tightened all
>of the hose clips to no avail.
>
>I be interested in some best practices in debugging this problem.
>
>Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Dimension of throttle please |
Gidday,
I am attempting to locate the throttle in my classic module to best suit
finger brakes etc. and as such I would like to clarify if the throttle slot
is the same dimensions as the old classic for an XS module. I am wondering
if by raising the throttle, and revisiting the setup, Europa relocated the
position forward or aft. The front of the throttle box is 15" aft of the
firewall for the 912 S setup, and I would also like to know if this
dimension is the same for the 914 should I go down that path, with its gate
in the slot for full boost. If anyone reckons it should be more forward or
aft for comfort etc, I'd like to know. The position of the throttle
determines the postion of my finger brakes, and this is what I am working
on now.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Undecided
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Corbett" <David.Corbett(at)fwi.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Rotax starting - 912S |
For those who may need to know, Adrian Lloyd here at Shobdon was instrumental in
identifying the remedy on Graham Shimmin's Banbi (referred to by Gerry), and
he also did the work for Paddy. Make a note of his number - 07787 847064 - and
let us hope it never affects 912UL's!
For Rick - what's A3800 in a currency I can understnd??
Sorry not to get to Henstridge - 4 generations to lunch! Only the oldest has not
flown in the Europa - he is too stiff to get in or out.
The Gloster Strut has a talk on Rotax 4 stroke engines tomorrow, Tuesday, 1930
at Aero's at Staverton, visitors welcome as always there.
David
G - BZAM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rePainting miniU2 |
| From: | irampil(at)notes.cc.sunysb.edu |
04/12/2004 12:24:13 PM,
Serialize complete at 04/12/2004 12:24:13 PM
Dave,
Sorry to say, but after your story and others, I'd think
sanding down to filler then using commercial polyurethane products
like Dupont Imron family will be what it takes to give you
what you want in the end.
That's what I did and it cost a lot but it is pretty, and tough to
scratch.
It took a well meaning sitting on my port wing with a pocket full of keys
to put a single scratch in it.
Ira N224XS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Position in Classic Module |
I put my throttle in the rear of the redundant monowheel gear/flap lever
slot; this is further to the left and further forward than the standard
position (I think). I'm very pleased with this and it is very comfortable.
Being so far over leaves more space for clip boards and writing-stuff.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Throttle Position in Classic Module
>
> Gidday,
> I am unrestricted in the positioning of my throttle due to being a
> taildragger, but I'd like to know if there is opinion about changing the
> throttle position to be somewhat more forward. I know of one mono builder
> who used factory dimensions and had to modify the underside of his
throttle
> quadrant to clear his wheel. I
> recoginise the panel is the limitation then, being able to have adaquate
> clearance from the panel at full power for knuckles/knobs etc. So, is the
> standard way to go the only way???
> Reg
> Tony R.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All,
BM says rudder movement should
be from 30 to 32 degrees. Is that per
side or total movement?
Many Wishes,
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT #417
OH-CVK
OH-BLL
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | FRIDAY-HAT DROPPING-NORTH WEALD |
Sadly deprived of joining in the events of the last four months due to an extensive
annual, I am in urgent need of a fly-in. I hope that the chaps who have been
hat dropping over this period will forgive me for the following suggestion.
The weather man is suggesting that there is more than a 50% probability of an excellent
day on Friday following a poor patch on Wed and Thurs.
The Historic Battle of Britain airfield is offering a freebie in the Flyer this
month and they have an excellent place to eat.
Hoping to see a 'few' there about midday all being well!
Bryan Allsop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Movement |
Hi Raimo It should be 30/32 degrees per side, there is a template in the
Europa news 39 that simplifies the checking,
I will send you a copy direct to your Email,
regards
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio@rwm-systems.fi>
Subject: Europa-List: Rudder Movement
<raimo.toivio@rwm-systems.fi>
>
> Hi All,
>
> BM says rudder movement should
> be from 30 to 32 degrees. Is that per
> side or total movement?
>
> Many Wishes,
> Raimo M W Toivio
>
> OH-XRT #417
> OH-CVK
> OH-BLL
>
> 37500 Lempaala
> Finland
> tel + 358 3 3753 777
> fax + 358 3 3753 100
> gsm + 358 40 590 1450
>
> raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
> www.rwm.fi
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
Per side
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Raimo Toivio
Subject: Europa-List: Rudder Movement
<raimo.toivio@rwm-systems.fi>
Hi All,
BM says rudder movement should
be from 30 to 32 degrees. Is that per
side or total movement?
Many Wishes,
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT #417
OH-CVK
OH-BLL
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Movement |
ivor.phillips wrote:
>
>Hi Raimo It should be 30/32 degrees per side, there is a template in the
>Europa news 39 that simplifies the checking,
>I will send you a copy direct to your Email,
>regards
>Ivor Phillips
>XS486 London UK
>CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
>trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
>
Ivor,
Would it be possible to get a copy of that template, too? Much
appreciated. Thanks.
--
Rocketman -
RM Holsters: http://www.rmholsters.com
FAL Gal Concealment Goods: http://www.falgal.com
Ballistic Review: http://www.ballisticreview.com
Aircraft Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
> I have seen some references to the "orifice" in the return fuel
> line. I have what looks to be one of these in the bottom of one of
> the many carrdboard boxes in the garage. Since it is in the box
> its not in the airplane's fuel system. Does the 914 need this...?
> Steve Hagar
I believe it's optional for the 914, for more realistic emergency
practice in handling an engine out. :-)
If I did the math right, not always the case, but the pressure head
on a full tank is a significant portion of the max allowable back
pressure Rotax allows in the return line. Hence, definitely no
restrictor.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
Hi Folks,
A bit more on the sprag clutch. It seems to be a problem
particularly on the higher compression 912S, but I know of one higher hour
912 that's affected, so presumably all Rotax engines may eventually be
vulnerable. The symptoms have been well described in previous messages, but
can be positively diagnosed as the sprag clutch using a clamp meter. Rotax
SB-912-042 refers.
A clamp meter can be bought ( in the U.K.) for approx. 90
pounds from Maplin, tho' I think this could well be a candidate for a tool
for the club to own and hire out. Note that it has to be able to measure
DC current.
The other thing that is worth checking is the friction
torque in the gearbox - again SB-912-042 refers.
As David says, Adrian Lloyd at Shobdon did the fix for me,
and, as I have an XS with the greater clearance behind the engine, he
managed to do it with the engine in place. Whether this will be possible on
the classic I don't know. Adrian also fitted the high power starter motor
( amazing difference - amazing price! ) as he is convinced it will help to
stop the problem reoccurring. Again, I have heard that this may not be
possible on the classic due to the restricted space.
It seems that once the problem starts it will only get
worse, and as the symptoms are so unpleasant, causing great concern as to
what is being done to the engine mounts, crankcase, prop, etc., delaying a
fix would appear unwise. I can't recommend Adrian highly enough.
Cheers, Paddy Clarke
----- Original Message -----
From: <RMRRick(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aircraft painting |
| From: | Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> |
Here it is the big secret on painting and primers. The following is what I have
used on my Europa. The process and products were handed down to me from another
Europa Builder and painting guru (Lynn Elsner) whos Europa is eight years
old and looks as good today as it did the day he painted it. Lynn has been using
this combination of primer and paint for many years on a number of airplanes
and the products have been around for even longer with proven results.
Primer PPG K36 Acrylic Urethane Primer/Sealer.
This is really nice stuff to work with. It is a two part primer that can be rolled
on with ease (much to Lynns surprise). I really love working with it. The
final rolled coat looks so smooth you would swear it was sprayed. And boy
how it sands, nothing finer in my opinion. The fiberglass substrate only needs
to be initially sanded to 80 grit as the primer can easily fill the sanding
marks (PPG recommends 80-150 grit for dry sanding between coats). Prior to painting,
the primer will need to be wet sanded with 320 then 400 grit.
Top coat Sherwin-Williams Aerospace Coatings Acry-Glow Acrylic Urethane
This is a high quality aircraft paint that is chemically resistant to most, if
not all aircraft fluids. Although somewhat expensive it is well worth the cost
($150 gallon including reducers and thinners). This produce is sprayed with
a convention spray gun. I tried rolling it on to no avail (left millions of
tiny bubbles in the paint). The product can also be clear coated for additional
UV protection, which is what I have done. In addition to the UV protection
of the paint and hopefully the substrate, the plane has a professional looking
finish with great depth. Although many nay sayers cite substantial weight increase,I
disagree. When using a clear coat the objective is to apply just enough
color coat to cover the grey primer (usually one tack coat followed by two
full coats). The color coat is then wet sanded (1,000 grit), thus removing
even more weight and surface imperfections, prior to the application of the clear
coat. One tack coat followed by three heavy coats
of clear finishes the painting. Next, the clear coat is wet sanded with 1,000,
1,200 and finally 1,500 (again removing more weight and any surface imperfections).
Finally the surface is polished with a professional polisher and 3M
polishing compound.
Using the above process and never having painted before I have achieved results
that are very satisfactory. Some say great. I am very pleased with paint job
and I did it all my self. Very rewarding indeed!
I have since learned that Phoenix Composites (a builder assist shop in Arizona)
uses the same products without the clear coat. Certainly the clear coat is more
labor intensive; however I believe the additional UV protection and great
looks are worth the effort. One final note, the above products are very user
friendly and have a very steep learning curve. Most mistakes can be easily fixed.
I converted my garage into a spry booth with filtered inlet air and a couple
of box fans with filters for the exit air (didnt want overspray on the vehicles
parked in the driveway). You will need a breath air system such as the
Hobby Air since the paint contains nasty chemicals that a respirator is unable
to cope with.
Well I hope the above has been helpful.
Regards,
Erich Trombley
N28ET Classic Mono 914
Las Vegas, NV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
How is it that the higher power starter motor does not put a higher load on
the sprag clutch, which would lead to the earlier demise of the clutch? This
assumes that the clutch is the victim rather than the cause, which seems to
be the case.Or is it that the violent starting (and the 'standard' but less
violent stopping) is the sole cause?
Many of the other factors that Rotax list as "remedies" would seem to be
appropriate in the first instance and there must be a compromise somewhere
between spinning the motor fast enough to generate a good spark etc and
spinning it excessively fast.
By the way, I'm having ENORMOUS problems with hot starting at the moment,
which doesn't seem to be related to any of the related issues discussed at
length on this and parallel forums. Hope its not another symptom of the
clutch problem (there's no banging and shaking, just no firing at all). Any
ideas out there?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> Hi Folks,
> A bit more on the sprag clutch. It seems to be a problem
> particularly on the higher compression 912S, but I know of one higher hour
> 912 that's affected, so presumably all Rotax engines may eventually be
> vulnerable. The symptoms have been well described in previous messages,
but
> can be positively diagnosed as the sprag clutch using a clamp meter. Rotax
> SB-912-042 refers.
> A clamp meter can be bought ( in the U.K.) for approx. 90
> pounds from Maplin, tho' I think this could well be a candidate for a tool
> for the club to own and hire out. Note that it has to be able to measure
> DC current.
> The other thing that is worth checking is the friction
> torque in the gearbox - again SB-912-042 refers.
> As David says, Adrian Lloyd at Shobdon did the fix for
me,
> and, as I have an XS with the greater clearance behind the engine, he
> managed to do it with the engine in place. Whether this will be possible
on
> the classic I don't know. Adrian also fitted the high power starter motor
> ( amazing difference - amazing price! ) as he is convinced it will help to
> stop the problem reoccurring. Again, I have heard that this may not be
> possible on the classic due to the restricted space.
> It seems that once the problem starts it will only get
> worse, and as the symptoms are so unpleasant, causing great concern as to
> what is being done to the engine mounts, crankcase, prop, etc., delaying a
> fix would appear unwise. I can't recommend Adrian highly enough.
> Cheers, Paddy Clarke
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RMRRick(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft painting |
Erich,
Before I head off to S-N-F today, could you please tell us where you
purchased your undercoat, paint, and clear coat?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
CM & rudder pedals with cables installed. Tailwheel complete. Wing pins and
tie bar installed. Working on baggage bay. Conventional gear assembled and soon
to be fitted.
But Sun-N-Fun comes soon!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft painting |
Erich Trombley wrote:
>
> Here it is the big secret on painting and primers....
(lots of good stuff snipped)
> The color coat is then wet sanded (1,000 grit), thus removing
> even more weight and surface imperfections, prior to the
> application of the clear coat.
I'd advise doing that only if paint mfr says it's OK. One major paint
mfr says clear over base within so many hours, else trouble. I tried
what you did once, but the clear failed in about 5 years, just like the
mfr said it might.
I'd like to add that the paints you cited are available from the major
mfr's as automotive coatings, and I think it's a stretch to say one brand
is superior for our purposes nor has much changed, based on many I've
used periodically since 1960.
Also, I've tried to find product literature that says what's really
special about their "aerospace coatings." Only luck so far is the
military cites problems with leading edge abrasion (from dust) on
supersonic aircraft, and the Space Shuttle gets hit with major UV.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
>By the way, I'm having ENORMOUS problems with hot starting at the moment,
which doesn't seem to be related to any of the related issues discussed at
length on this and parallel forums. Hope its not another symptom of the
clutch problem (there's no banging and shaking, just no firing at all). Any
ideas out there?<
Perhaps it might be fuel vapourisation. I have a fuel temperature gauge
which measures temperature at the carb inlet and the temperature jumps up by
about 10degC within 5 minutes after shutdown. I leave the inspection panels
open during short turnarounds which helps cool the engine compartment
significantly. If it is fuel related then a check of a plug after several
start attempts will show a dry plug.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
Hi Duncan
My 912 is also difficult to start when it is still hot. I assume it is to do
with
the temperature of the carbs. On such occasions I run the fuel pump for
much longer and then when the engine is turning over and won't fire I
progressively open the throttle until it catches, which is usually about 1/3
to 1/2 throttle. Obviously no choke.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> How is it that the higher power starter motor does not put a higher load
on
> the sprag clutch, which would lead to the earlier demise of the clutch?
This
> assumes that the clutch is the victim rather than the cause, which seems
to
> be the case.Or is it that the violent starting (and the 'standard' but
less
> violent stopping) is the sole cause?
>
> Many of the other factors that Rotax list as "remedies" would seem to be
> appropriate in the first instance and there must be a compromise somewhere
> between spinning the motor fast enough to generate a good spark etc and
> spinning it excessively fast.
>
> By the way, I'm having ENORMOUS problems with hot starting at the moment,
> which doesn't seem to be related to any of the related issues discussed at
> length on this and parallel forums. Hope its not another symptom of the
> clutch problem (there's no banging and shaking, just no firing at all).
Any
> ideas out there?
>
> Duncan McF.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> > A bit more on the sprag clutch. It seems to be a problem
> > particularly on the higher compression 912S, but I know of one higher
hour
> > 912 that's affected, so presumably all Rotax engines may eventually be
> > vulnerable. The symptoms have been well described in previous messages,
> but
> > can be positively diagnosed as the sprag clutch using a clamp meter.
Rotax
> > SB-912-042 refers.
> > A clamp meter can be bought ( in the U.K.) for approx.
90
> > pounds from Maplin, tho' I think this could well be a candidate for a
tool
> > for the club to own and hire out. Note that it has to be able to measure
> > DC current.
> > The other thing that is worth checking is the friction
> > torque in the gearbox - again SB-912-042 refers.
> > As David says, Adrian Lloyd at Shobdon did the fix for
> me,
> > and, as I have an XS with the greater clearance behind the engine, he
> > managed to do it with the engine in place. Whether this will be possible
> on
> > the classic I don't know. Adrian also fitted the high power starter
motor
> > ( amazing difference - amazing price! ) as he is convinced it will help
to
> > stop the problem reoccurring. Again, I have heard that this may not be
> > possible on the classic due to the restricted space.
> > It seems that once the problem starts it will only get
> > worse, and as the symptoms are so unpleasant, causing great concern as
to
> > what is being done to the engine mounts, crankcase, prop, etc., delaying
a
> > fix would appear unwise. I can't recommend Adrian highly enough.
> > Cheers, Paddy Clarke
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <RMRRick(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Anderson" <dja767(at)charter.net> |
"Anderson, Don"
| Subject: | Paint booth story |
Thanks to Erich for the detailed rendition of his painting experience. Sounds like
it can be done by a builder - andn done well!
Here is a fascinating story if any one has input for me, I'd appreciate it. I built
a booth of 2X2 lumber and plastic sheeting left over from my previous painting
experience with water based paint. I was experimenting with a box fan for
ventilating. I had decided to have the major parts sprayed by the local painter
and do the small parts myself. I decided after looking at the lighting that
I would not use it as a paint booth, but as a drying dust free booth. I would
paint the parts outside early in the morning and transfer them into the booth.
I have a privately owned hangar on airport property.
When I entered the hangar yesterday, I found the paint booth violently slashed
to bits. That is the only way I can describe it without pictures. I literally
stood there for minutes staring - literally scared that my hangar had been vandalized.
The immediate concern was for the radios and other expensive equipment,
as well as the airplanes themselves. After the shock wore off, I went to the
airport manager's office and called the police. As it turns out, the local county
fire inspector entered my hangar to do an inspection and decided to destroy
my property in the way I described! There was no notice, there was nothing
left to indicate what had been done or who had done it. Needless to say, I am
in a state of shock seeing the government employee (who is paid by my taxes)
acting as judge, jury and executioner. The remarkable thing is I did not intend
to use it as a paint booth and was only experimenting with ideas - lighting
etc. On top of it, they tell me that I will be receiving a citation for having
an illegal paint booth.
I will be consulting a lawyer regarding this, obviously. Does anyone out there
have any experience in such matters. It seems to me that I was denied my right
of due process - never having a chance to explain the situation before the big
arm of the law came down and passionately destroyed what I had created. I think
I'll post a picture on my web site - a picture tells a thousand words.
More windmills to tilt at!
Dave
A227 Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint booth story |
My sincere empathy to you. Too often Firemen and other gov't employees think they're
God. Wish I knew the answer... best of luck with the lawyer... keep us
posted what happens
Paul Boulet N914PB
test flight scheduled week of May 3, 2004!!!!!
Dave Anderson wrote:
Thanks to Erich for the detailed rendition of his painting experience. Sounds like
it can be done by a builder - andn done well!
Here is a fascinating story if any one has input for me, I'd appreciate it. I built
a booth of 2X2 lumber and plastic sheeting left over from my previous painting
experience with water based paint. I was experimenting with a box fan for
ventilating. I had decided to have the major parts sprayed by the local painter
and do the small parts myself. I decided after looking at the lighting that
I would not use it as a paint booth, but as a drying dust free booth. I would
paint the parts outside early in the morning and transfer them into the booth.
I have a privately owned hangar on airport property.
When I entered the hangar yesterday, I found the paint booth violently slashed
to bits. That is the only way I can describe it without pictures. I literally
stood there for minutes staring - literally scared that my hangar had been vandalized.
The immediate concern was for the radios and other expensive equipment,
as well as the airplanes themselves. After the shock wore off, I went to the
airport manager's office and called the police. As it turns out, the local county
fire inspector entered my hangar to do an inspection and decided to destroy
my property in the way I described! There was no notice, there was nothing
left to indicate what had been done or who had done it. Needless to say, I am
in a state of shock seeing the government employee (who is paid by my taxes)
acting as judge, jury and executioner. The remarkable thing is I did not intend
to use it as a paint booth and was only experimenting with ideas - lighting
etc. On top of it, they tell me that I will be recei!
ving a citation for having an illegal paint booth.
I will be consulting a lawyer regarding this, obviously. Does anyone out there
have any experience in such matters. It seems to me that I was denied my right
of due process - never having a chance to explain the situation before the big
arm of the law came down and passionately destroyed what I had created. I think
I'll post a picture on my web site - a picture tells a thousand words.
More windmills to tilt at!
Dave
A227 Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
Could well be related to heat; the inlet manifolds have been hot and cold
starting remains easy. However, fuel IS getting through because fuel vapour
can be seen "puffing" out of the exhaust pipe. If it's too much fuel, then
trying to dry out by cranking at full throttle doesn't help (and probably
wouldn't anyway with CD-type carbs.). Can't see why over hot fuel would be a
problem, so long as its still present as a vapour rather than as a 'gas'.
Maybe it has something to do with winter MOGAS; other forums have recorded
that these problems are eased by use of AVGAS. Also, inlet air is taken from
under the cowl, which would exacerbate a heat-related problem.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> >By the way, I'm having ENORMOUS problems with hot starting at the moment,
> which doesn't seem to be related to any of the related issues discussed at
> length on this and parallel forums. Hope its not another symptom of the
> clutch problem (there's no banging and shaking, just no firing at all).
Any
> ideas out there?<
>
> Perhaps it might be fuel vapourisation. I have a fuel temperature gauge
> which measures temperature at the carb inlet and the temperature jumps up
by
> about 10degC within 5 minutes after shutdown. I leave the inspection
panels
> open during short turnarounds which helps cool the engine compartment
> significantly. If it is fuel related then a check of a plug after several
> start attempts will show a dry plug.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting and products cont. |
| From: | Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> |
Fred and others,
Regarding the clear coat. It too is manufactured by Acry-Glow and therefore compatible
with their base coat. The sanding the base coat prior to the application
of the clear coat is permissible provided you do not sand any finer than 1,000
grit, due to possible loss of adhesion. 800 grit might be acceptable although
you run the risk of seeing sanding marks in the final finish. To my knowledge
there has not been a problem using Acry-Glow base and clear coat as per
the manufacture.
Fred writes
"I'd advise doing that only if paint mfr says it's OK. One major paint mfr says
clear over base within so many hours, else trouble. I tried what you did
once, but the clear failed in about 5 years, just like the mfr said it might."
The Sherwin-Williams rep stated that if the clear coat is not applied within so
many hours you will need to sand the base coat prior to the application of the
clear. This is just what I did with my project.
"I'd like to add that the paints you cited are available from the major mfr's as
automotive coatings, and I think it's a stretch to say one brand is superior
for our purposes nor has much changed, based on many I've used periodically since
1960. Also, I've tried to find product literature that says what's really
special about their "aerospace coatings." Only luck so far is the military
cites problems with leading edge abrasion (from dust) on supersonic aircraft,
and the Space Shuttle gets hit with major UV."
Fred, I do not profess to be a painting expert as pointed out this is my first
painting exercise. However, I can personally attest to the fact that at least
one automotive coating I saw on a Velocity was not chemically resistant to Avgas
and left a nasty permanent blue stain around the fuel caps where fuel had
come in contact with the paint.
Sherwin-Williams list the following benefits to their product:
Easy application and fast dry
Resistant to chipping and UV exposure
Long-lasting, high-gloss finish
Superior Skydrol and other hydraulic jet fluid resistance
Salt, chemical and solvent resistant
Available in High Solids and Conventional formulations
Unlimited color availability
I can also attest to the fact that the paint is extremely flexible, a desired characteristic
since there is significant flexing in aircraft. I also know that
many Jet manufactures use this product on their aircraft, which cost a fair
bit more than a Europa.
You can do as you wish, I simple stated the process and products I have used on
my bird, as have others, with the desired affect and longevity we all seek.
For those interested the PPG K36 and K201 can be purchased at most automotive paint
houses. The Acy-Glow base and clear in conventional formulation (not the
High Solids) along with the reducer and thinner was purchased from a Sherwin-Williams
distributor:
Custom Chemical Engineering
Aerospace Coatings of Lincoln
4817 N. 56th St., #10
Lincoln, NE 68504
(888) 258-8619
(402) 466-8958 Fax
E-mail: paint4mike(at)aol.com
Ask for Mike. Also if you have them ship it look into Fed Ex ground vs. Fed Ex
Trucking. There is a big, big difference in the shipping cost as I have found
out the hard way, at least for small orders. I had to order an extra gallon
of clear and the shipping exceeded the cost of the product. For my initial order
I picked it up directly from the distributor as I happened to be in the area.
What ever method and products you all chose to go with I wish you all the best.
Erich Trombley
N28ET Mono-Classic 914
Las Vegas, NV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
Hi All,
First a word of caution. I'm not an engineer and don't have
any specialist knowledge. What I have to say may well be ( and probably is )
a load of old rubbish. Having said that, I'll press on anyway.
The problem seems to arise when the engine kicks back on
start up. The poor little starter motor turning one way meets the engine
violently kicking back the other. The location for this titanic conflict is
the sprag clutch - no wonder it can't cope. The higher output starter spins
the engine so fast that there is plenty of inertia to carry it over the
compression, whenever ignition takes place. This is how it feels anyway.
I agree that the higher power starter will put greater
torque into the clutch, but I suspect the increased forces are relatively
small compared to those involved in meeting a backfiring engine. I shudder
to think what it would feel like to have a kick back against the high power
starter.
Cheers, Paddy Clarke
ps. I hope this message doesn't appear twice - we had a power cut just as it
was being sent!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> How is it that the higher power starter motor does not put a higher load
on
> the sprag clutch, which would lead to the earlier demise of the clutch?
This
> assumes that the clutch is the victim rather than the cause, which seems
to
> be the case.Or is it that the violent starting (and the 'standard' but
less
> violent stopping) is the sole cause?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: FRIDAY-HAT DROPPING-NORTH WEALD |
The weather man nearly got it right for Friday. It should be almost balmy at
North Weald, but a front will be running SW to NE through Manchester which
will cause cloud and rain along its' line.
For those SE of the line the weather looks promising, so I hope that the
lure of bacon butties together with the nostalgic promise of North Weald
will be sufficient to make it worth a go.
Happy flying. Bryan A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
| From: | James H Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Duncan,
When I flooded my 912S last time, I shut off the main fuel
(valve) and opened the throttle about half way. Then I cranked the
engine and it cleared and started. The moment it started, I turned the
fuel selector back to on and all was fine. Previously I had to let it
set until it cleared itself usually several hours later. That solution
was not acceptable. So the next time it floods, I will do the shut off
of fuel and things should be fine. I've only flooded it three times in
the past 18 mo. but that is three times too many. It was also very
embarrassing as I was giving flight to a first timer----
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Jig Alignment |
I have just started on the flaps. On both sides, when the flap cores are set upside
down in the jigs, the jig for the outboard piece is slightly thicker, maybe
by 2 or 3 mm, than the jig for the outboard piece. Therefore when I press
the cores together with the 5 mm foam laminate in between, the foam cores do
not line up. Is this correct, or is it a manufacturing error? I could shim
up the low side but I am afraid this will distort the shape of the flap.
Dave Simenauer
A101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
>what's A3800 in a currency I can understnd
David - "A3" appearing in an e-mail message usually means a UK pound
sign was originally typed in that position - so A3800 would be 800 UK
pounds. The problem arises because the basic ASCII character set does
not include the appropriate fancy "L" (for libra) symbol. UK
keyboards often have a pound sign where US ones have the hash sign
(US usage often treats this # as equivalent to "pound" or "number").
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 670 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Jig Alignment |
Hi Dave,
That was also the case when I did my flaps.
I put some mixing sticks and tape has shims. The key thing
here is that the flap is straight. I used a long straight edge
and checked both LE, TE and the surface between.
Tripple check that you have correct washout.
Regards
Stephan Cassel
#556 Norway
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Simenauer
Subject: Europa-List: Flap Jig Alignment
I have just started on the flaps. On both sides, when the flap cores
are set upside down in the jigs, the jig for the outboard piece is
slightly thicker, maybe by 2 or 3 mm, than the jig for the outboard
piece. Therefore when I press the cores together with the 5 mm foam
laminate in between, the foam cores do not line up. Is this correct,
or is it a manufacturing error? I could shim up the low side but I am
afraid this will distort the shape of the flap.
Dave Simenauer
A101
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is inevitably
present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of any damping, the
forces produced by resonance will build-up towards infinity. The crank and
gearbox get hit with similar forces too; its just that the sprag is the weak
link in the chain (and, if it's any consolation, cheaper than a new crank!).
However, damping of resonance is provided by the friction clutch in the
gearbox; hence Rotax's insistence that this be maintained at the upper
limit. Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly through
and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery, good
contacts, high torque motor). We have to hope that it is the 'shaking and
banging' ONLY that causes the problem, not the loads of normal starting.
Last Summer, there was a certain 912S CT that was regularly shaking the
carburettors out of the mounting sockets on start up, possibly exacerbated
by the big floppy 2-blade prop it had.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> Hi All,
> First a word of caution. I'm not an engineer and don't
have
> any specialist knowledge. What I have to say may well be ( and probably
is )
> a load of old rubbish. Having said that, I'll press on anyway.
> The problem seems to arise when the engine kicks back on
> start up. The poor little starter motor turning one way meets the engine
> violently kicking back the other. The location for this titanic conflict
is
> the sprag clutch - no wonder it can't cope. The higher output starter
spins
> the engine so fast that there is plenty of inertia to carry it over the
> compression, whenever ignition takes place. This is how it feels anyway.
> I agree that the higher power starter will put greater
> torque into the clutch, but I suspect the increased forces are relatively
> small compared to those involved in meeting a backfiring engine. I shudder
> to think what it would feel like to have a kick back against the high
power
> starter.
> Cheers, Paddy Clarke
> ps. I hope this message doesn't appear twice - we had a power cut just as
it
> was being sent!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
>
> >
> > How is it that the higher power starter motor does not put a higher load
> on
> > the sprag clutch, which would lead to the earlier demise of the clutch?
> This
> > assumes that the clutch is the victim rather than the cause, which seems
> to
> > be the case.Or is it that the violent starting (and the 'standard' but
> less
> > violent stopping) is the sole cause?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)btclick.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
The clutch is only vulnerable when it is engaged and the engine kicks
back (i.e. during starting). Once the engine is running, the clutch will
be disengaged and the low RPM torsional resonance can't affect it.
The real damage seems to occur if the engine fires at just below the
required cranking speed and kicks the crank back the wrong way. As Paddy
points out, the forces are immense. It looks just as bad from outside
the aircraft as it feels from within.
While the more powerful starter may well alleviate the problem in the
short term by increasing cranking speed, I feel that the problem will
not be truly fixed until Rotax develop (or get Ducati to) an ignition
system with a mapped "starting" ignition retarded to TDC or even
slightly later. This soft-start would get the engine running without
damage, at which point the normal ignition mapping would take over.
This concept is not new. It is employed successfully on the Europa
"primary trainer" that I fly (DH82a) and was developed over seventy
years ago to protect the starting system - your fingers!
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is
inevitably
present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of any damping,
the
forces produced by resonance will build-up towards infinity. The crank
and
gearbox get hit with similar forces too; its just that the sprag is the
weak
link in the chain (and, if it's any consolation, cheaper than a new
crank!).
However, damping of resonance is provided by the friction clutch in the
gearbox; hence Rotax's insistence that this be maintained at the upper
limit. Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly
through
and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery, good
contacts, high torque motor). We have to hope that it is the 'shaking
and
banging' ONLY that causes the problem, not the loads of normal starting.
Last Summer, there was a certain 912S CT that was regularly shaking the
carburettors out of the mounting sockets on start up, possibly
exacerbated
by the big floppy 2-blade prop it had.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> Hi All,
> First a word of caution. I'm not an engineer and don't
have
> any specialist knowledge. What I have to say may well be ( and
probably
is )
> a load of old rubbish. Having said that, I'll press on anyway.
> The problem seems to arise when the engine kicks back
on
> start up. The poor little starter motor turning one way meets the
engine
> violently kicking back the other. The location for this titanic
conflict
is
> the sprag clutch - no wonder it can't cope. The higher output starter
spins
> the engine so fast that there is plenty of inertia to carry it over
the
> compression, whenever ignition takes place. This is how it feels
anyway.
> I agree that the higher power starter will put greater
> torque into the clutch, but I suspect the increased forces are
relatively
> small compared to those involved in meeting a backfiring engine. I
shudder
> to think what it would feel like to have a kick back against the high
power
> starter.
> Cheers, Paddy Clarke
> ps. I hope this message doesn't appear twice - we had a power cut just
as
it
> was being sent!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
>
> >
> > How is it that the higher power starter motor does not put a higher
load
> on
> > the sprag clutch, which would lead to the earlier demise of the
clutch?
> This
> > assumes that the clutch is the victim rather than the cause, which
seems
> to
> > be the case.Or is it that the violent starting (and the 'standard'
but
> less
> > violent stopping) is the sole cause?
>
>
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
>Maybe it has something to do with winter MOGAS; other forums have recorded
that these problems are eased by use of AVGAS.<
If winter MOGAS is the culprit your problem should go away as we change to
summer MOGAS. It will be interesting to hear further progress with this
problem.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
>Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly through
and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery, good
contacts, high torque motor). <
This is another good reason for the use of external power for start when
available. I use a car battery rated for diesel use for all my starts from
my base airfield. This gives plenty of current for the starter. I don't
recall having any kickbacks when external power has been used but it has
happened quite often with starts from the internal battery especially on
cold starts when the cranking speed is not quite so high.
For those still building it might be worth considering including a
convenient external power connection point. If your C of G is such that an
aft mounted battery is required mounting a socket just aft of the wing (a
good place for safety) is very straightforward. If you have the battery in
the engine compartment a little more planning is required. For monowheels
aft C of G's are beneficial for take-off and landing as it helps to ensure
directional control with the tail on the ground. It also slightly reduces
drag in the air due to reduced tailplane downforce. The only penalty is the
weight of the extra wire from the battery to the starter (about 1.5lb).
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax starting - 912S |
Could these problems be exacerbated by exceeding the maximum propeller
mass-inertia limit recommended by Rotax? In the case of the 912 this was
6000 kg-cm squared.
Does anyone know what the current recommended limits are for the 912S and
the 914, and how commonly-used propellers such as Warp Drive compare to
them?
Mike
Europa Club Safety Officer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is inevitably
present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of any damping, the
forces produced by resonance will build-up towards infinity. The crank and
gearbox get hit with similar forces too; its just that the sprag is the weak
link in the chain (and, if it's any consolation, cheaper than a new crank!).
However, damping of resonance is provided by the friction clutch in the
gearbox; hence Rotax's insistence that this be maintained at the upper
limit. Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly through
and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery, good
contacts, high torque motor). We have to hope that it is the 'shaking and
banging' ONLY that causes the problem, not the loads of normal starting.
Last Summer, there was a certain 912S CT that was regularly shaking the
carburettors out of the mounting sockets on start up, possibly exacerbated
by the big floppy 2-blade prop it had.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Jig Alignment |
"David Simenauer" wrote
I have just started on the flaps. On both sides, when the flap cores are
set upside down in the jigs, the jig for the outboard piece is slightly
thicker, maybe by 2 or 3 mm, than the jig for the outboard piece.
David,
The heights of the two jigs should be exactly the same when butted together.
One of the handiest things I have found during my build is MDF (Medium
Density Fibreboard). It comes in varying thicknesses one of which is 3mm.
It is exactly true to size.
If the difference in height of your two jigs is 3mm, I would suggest you put
a piece of 3mm MDF (at least as big as the jig) under the lower jig to
elevate it and as Stephan suggested, ensure the profiles are straight using
a long straight edge. If the 3mm MDF is too thick, try purchasing a sheet
or two of cardboard or use newsprint paper or the like to obtain the correct
thickness. If I remember correctly, I think I also laid a piece of plastic
film in the area of the flap join in order to prevent the flap being glued
to the jig if any micro happened to seep out.
I have also found MDF to be invaluable for making templates, jigs, feeler
gauges etc.
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Rotax starting - 912S |
The clutch is only vulnerable when it is engaged and the engine kicks
back (i.e. during starting). Once the engine is running, the clutch will
be disengaged and the low RPM torsional resonance can't affect it.
The real damage seems to occur if the engine fires at just below the
required cranking speed and kicks the crank back the wrong way. As Paddy
points out, the forces are immense. It looks just as bad from outside
the aircraft as it feels from within.
While the more powerful starter may well alleviate the problem in the
short term by increasing cranking speed, I feel that the problem will
not be truly fixed until Rotax develop (or get Ducati to) an ignition
system with a mapped "starting" ignition retarded to TDC or even
slightly later. This soft-start would get the engine running without
damage, at which point the normal ignition mapping would take over.
This concept is not new. It is employed successfully on the Europa
"primary trainer" that I fly (DH82a) and was developed over seventy
years ago to protect the starting system - your fingers!
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is
inevitably present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of
any damping,the forces produced by resonance will build-up towards
infinity. The crank and gearbox get hit with similar forces too; its just
that the sprag is the weak link in the chain (and, if it's any consolation,
cheaper than a new crank!).
However, damping of resonance is provided by the friction clutch in the
gearbox; hence Rotax's insistence that this be maintained at the upper
limit. Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly
through and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery,
good contacts, high torque motor). We have to hope that it is the 'shaking
and banging' ONLY that causes the problem, not the loads of normal starting.
Last Summer, there was a certain 912S CT that was regularly shaking the
carburettors out of the mounting sockets on start up, possibly
exacerbated by the big floppy 2-blade prop it had. Duncan
McF.
I've been thinking (sorry).
We used to take precautions when starting big radials in the following
manner:
While cranking up the engine, we pumped the fuel into the intake manifold
by which time the engine was at proper rev, so turned on the ignition and
she fired. There was no premature popping to damage starter mechanism,
and there was insufficient time for fuel to pool in the intake.
Why does there have to be sparking before its time?
I'm no 912S specialist, but couldn't that preclude some of the problem?
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Rotax starting - 912S |
>
>
>That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
>frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is inevitably
>present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of any damping, the
>forces produced by resonance will build-up towards infinity.
I have always believed that the shaking and banging on start up was due to
the fact that at low cranking speeds the ignition timing is too advanced,
hence the regular kick backs. The rough stopping may well be due to high
compression/ small flywheel effect.
just a thought or two
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leo J. Corbalis" <leocorbalis(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
Re wire the start/ignition system separating the the starting so the starter
motor can get the engine rotating and then turn on the ignition modules. As
I recall we used to turn the big fat radials thru one revolution of the prop
and then turn on the ignition.
Leo Corbalis>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
Many offered very helpful advice about ventilation and eyeball vents
> some time ago. What I have come up with is posted in the builders album
> section of the owners forum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/ (Have not yet
> worked out how to title the group of pictures. )
>
> Regards
>
> Paul Stewart
> G-GIDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
Does anyone know when or by what criteria the fuel companies change their
formulations?
In the UK we can expect snow up to the end of April. Does that mean no
'summer' fuel until May+?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> >Maybe it has something to do with winter MOGAS; other forums have
recorded
> that these problems are eased by use of AVGAS.<
>
> If winter MOGAS is the culprit your problem should go away as we change to
> summer MOGAS. It will be interesting to hear further progress with this
> problem.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Jig Alignment |
>when the flap cores are set upside down in the jigs, the jig for the
>outboard piece is slightly thicke
David - this is, I believe, a common problem. The blocks of foam that
the control surfaces are cut from are not themselves very
dimensionally accurate. I had to shim mine in various places to get
both LE & TE straight, and to achieve the specified washout. Remember
that the object of the exercise is to make a nice straight-looking
control surface, and don't worry if you have to adjust the
underpinnings to get that end result. You'll be throwing away the jig
blocks - the aeroplane parts are what you keep!
Incidentally the method in my manual for setting washout using shims
was based on incorrect trigonometry - I told the factory but I don't
think they've changed it yet. A digital level is very handy for
getting the washout correct, although you _can_ do it without one.
[blatant advert]
From the number you quote in your signature, I assume you bought your
already-started kit from Jim Graham, who has been a Europa Cub
member. I hope that he passed on to you the Europa Club information,
and that you might consider joining the Club yourself. If so, please
contact me direct for more info.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (670 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
The clutch is engaged any time that the engine is kicking back (including at
shut-down) and the immense forces that are felt to be at play are actually a
manifestation of the interaction of the prop., crank and dog clutch in the
gearbox (the latter in particular as the dogs bounce from face to face). No
doubt the sprag and starter is suffering too, but that would not be
discernable from outside.
My point was that the whole system must have (by law of nature) a primary
resonant frequency somewhere; it's usually engineered to be below cranking
speed, before the point where combustion loads can commence and below the
speed that the engine will normally run. So, as you say, once the engine is
running it is beyond the speed range that can produce kickback Of interest,
some two-stroke set-ups can be seen with a resonance well above cranking
speed to the extent that the engine struggles to power-up through this
resonant speed once the engine is running
I can't think that Rotax would have been so thoughtless as to have provided
too much advance at cranking speed (4 degrees) and others have confirmed
that trying to start on one ignition only (which would crudely "halve" the
rate of advance of the combustion flame-front, effectively retarding the
ignition) makes no difference to the shaking. However, if the cranking speed
is below par for whatever reason and the engine fires whilst at or close to
the resonant frequency, then the combustion loads will massively antagonise
the shaking.
I had the same problem on the BMW (the BIG starting problem on that was
similar to that of the Rotax and was the last straw for this project) which
of course had mapped ignition and a flywheel. What helped resolve the
problem was adjustment of the gearbox preload, which moved the engine-prop
resonant frequency away from cranking-speed frequency. Problem then was that
the preload was then wrong for operation.
Its also worth noting that the BMW starting was eased by leaving the
ignition switched off until the starter had run up to cranking speed.
Maybe this is just another way of looking at the same problem, but I think
it more accurately reflects the dynamics at play.
Duncan McF.
antagonise the whole regime.----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
> The clutch is only vulnerable when it is engaged and the engine kicks
> back (i.e. during starting). Once the engine is running, the clutch will
> be disengaged and the low RPM torsional resonance can't affect it.
>
> The real damage seems to occur if the engine fires at just below the
> required cranking speed and kicks the crank back the wrong way. As Paddy
> points out, the forces are immense. It looks just as bad from outside
> the aircraft as it feels from within.
>
> While the more powerful starter may well alleviate the problem in the
> short term by increasing cranking speed, I feel that the problem will
> not be truly fixed until Rotax develop (or get Ducati to) an ignition
> system with a mapped "starting" ignition retarded to TDC or even
> slightly later. This soft-start would get the engine running without
> damage, at which point the normal ignition mapping would take over.
>
> This concept is not new. It is employed successfully on the Europa
> "primary trainer" that I fly (DH82a) and was developed over seventy
> years ago to protect the starting system - your fingers!
>
> Nigel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
>
>
> That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
> frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is
> inevitably present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of
> any damping,the forces produced by resonance will build-up towards
> infinity. The crank and gearbox get hit with similar forces too; its just
> that the sprag is the weak link in the chain (and, if it's any
consolation,
> cheaper than a new crank!).
> However, damping of resonance is provided by the friction clutch in the
> gearbox; hence Rotax's insistence that this be maintained at the upper
> limit. Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly
> through and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery,
> good contacts, high torque motor). We have to hope that it is the 'shaking
> and banging' ONLY that causes the problem, not the loads of normal
starting.
>
> Last Summer, there was a certain 912S CT that was regularly shaking the
> carburettors out of the mounting sockets on start up, possibly
> exacerbated by the big floppy 2-blade prop it had. Duncan
> McF.
>
> I've been thinking (sorry).
> We used to take precautions when starting big radials in the following
> manner:
> While cranking up the engine, we pumped the fuel into the intake manifold
> by which time the engine was at proper rev, so turned on the ignition and
> she fired. There was no premature popping to damage starter mechanism,
> and there was insufficient time for fuel to pool in the intake.
> Why does there have to be sparking before its time?
> I'm no 912S specialist, but couldn't that preclude some of the problem?
> Ferg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
>>I shudder
> to think what it would feel like to have a kick back against the high
power
> starter.
<<
Actually, no difference other than the small additional torque of the
starter and small additional inertia of the rotor (if indeed it is any
heavier or faster). The dynamics of the problem (whilst it is occurring) are
not controlled directly by the characteristics of the starter motor.
Duncan McF
PS Terrible pun!
----- Original Message -----
From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> Hi All,
> First a word of caution. I'm not an engineer and don't
have
> any specialist knowledge. What I have to say may well be ( and probably
is )
> a load of old rubbish. Having said that, I'll press on anyway.
> The problem seems to arise when the engine kicks back on
> start up. The poor little starter motor turning one way meets the engine
> violently kicking back the other. The location for this titanic conflict
is
> the sprag clutch - no wonder it can't cope. The higher output starter
spins
> the engine so fast that there is plenty of inertia to carry it over the
> compression, whenever ignition takes place. This is how it feels anyway.
> I agree that the higher power starter will put greater
> torque into the clutch, but I suspect the increased forces are relatively
> small compared to those involved in meeting a backfiring engine. I shudder
> to think what it would feel like to have a kick back against the high
power
> starter.
> Cheers, Paddy Clarke
> ps. I hope this message doesn't appear twice - we had a power cut just as
it
> was being sent!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
>
> >
> > How is it that the higher power starter motor does not put a higher load
> on
> > the sprag clutch, which would lead to the earlier demise of the clutch?
> This
> > assumes that the clutch is the victim rather than the cause, which seems
> to
> > be the case.Or is it that the violent starting (and the 'standard' but
> less
> > violent stopping) is the sole cause?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
4806 kg.cm2 for a 62" wide chord HP Warp Drive (including bolts and
faceplate, but not spinner, all of which would be negligible at such a small
radius of gyration).
The benefit of the small diameter props that Europas run should favour being
well within the Rotax gearbox inertial load limits (which I don't think were
changed for the 912S or 914, even though the higher gearing ratios of these
would suggest that they might).
So it should be other users of 912s that are suffering more than us.
Duncan Mcf.
PS Will Bob Harrison please stop sniggering at all this!
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> Could these problems be exacerbated by exceeding the maximum propeller
> mass-inertia limit recommended by Rotax? In the case of the 912 this was
> 6000 kg-cm squared.
> Does anyone know what the current recommended limits are for the 912S and
> the 914, and how commonly-used propellers such as Warp Drive compare to
> them?
>
> Mike
> Europa Club Safety Officer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
>
> That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
> frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is
inevitably
> present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of any damping, the
> forces produced by resonance will build-up towards infinity. The crank and
> gearbox get hit with similar forces too; its just that the sprag is the
weak
> link in the chain (and, if it's any consolation, cheaper than a new
crank!).
> However, damping of resonance is provided by the friction clutch in the
> gearbox; hence Rotax's insistence that this be maintained at the upper
> limit. Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly through
> and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery, good
> contacts, high torque motor). We have to hope that it is the 'shaking and
> banging' ONLY that causes the problem, not the loads of normal starting.
>
> Last Summer, there was a certain 912S CT that was regularly shaking the
> carburettors out of the mounting sockets on start up, possibly exacerbated
> by the big floppy 2-blade prop it had.
>
> Duncan McF.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax starting - 912S |
Actually, the starting problem should be reduced by approaching or exceeding
the prop inertia limits as more prop inertia means lower resonant frequency,
which is further displaced from cranking speed.
Maybe the small, low inertia Europa props are contributory and it's not just
our relatively high utilisation that seem to be favouring us being victims.
Another aspect is prop material, the high modulus/low hyteresis Warp Drive
being hard on gearboxes. But then William Mills runs an Arplast (but did
once run a Warp Drive).
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
> Could these problems be exacerbated by exceeding the maximum propeller
> mass-inertia limit recommended by Rotax? In the case of the 912 this was
> 6000 kg-cm squared.
> Does anyone know what the current recommended limits are for the 912S and
> the 914, and how commonly-used propellers such as Warp Drive compare to
> them?
>
> Mike
> Europa Club Safety Officer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami McFadyean
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
>
> That being so, the 'shaking and banging' is likely caused by the low
> frequency primary resonance (torsional and/or blade-flap) that is
inevitably
> present below normal cranking speeds. In the absence of any damping, the
> forces produced by resonance will build-up towards infinity. The crank and
> gearbox get hit with similar forces too; its just that the sprag is the
weak
> link in the chain (and, if it's any consolation, cheaper than a new
crank!).
> However, damping of resonance is provided by the friction clutch in the
> gearbox; hence Rotax's insistence that this be maintained at the upper
> limit. Also anything that accelerates the cranking engine quickly through
> and clear of the resonant band should help (i.e. powerful battery, good
> contacts, high torque motor). We have to hope that it is the 'shaking and
> banging' ONLY that causes the problem, not the loads of normal starting.
>
> Last Summer, there was a certain 912S CT that was regularly shaking the
> carburettors out of the mounting sockets on start up, possibly exacerbated
> by the big floppy 2-blade prop it had.
>
> Duncan McF.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax starting - 912S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel Skirts for Tri Gear |
Would someone who has a tri gear please give me the length of the skirt. I'm having
decals made up and haven't got the speed kit yet.
Al Stills
A095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer(at)cox.net> |
I've got my jigs shimmed and my flap cores aligned properly. But I have to admit
I'm not completely certain how to make sure the washout is correct. Any help
with this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
A101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Skirts for Tri Gear |
If you are referring to the wheel pants! they are 36 inches for the main and
29 inches for the nose wheel long and 11. 1/2 inches and 9 inches tall
respectively,
regards
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Wheel Skirts for Tri Gear
>
> Would someone who has a tri gear please give me the length of the skirt.
I'm having decals made up and haven't got the speed kit yet.
> Al Stills
> A095
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Washout |
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
Hi Dave,
I used trigonometry (tan) for both flaps and aileron and the result was
perfect. (I don't think the method in the manual is 100% correct.
especially not after the jig is cut)
This is a safe method:
1. Make sure that your table is dead level (most important straight)
2. Make a wedge of wood that can stand on the under surface (and later
upper surface) the length should be about cord length.
The angle of the wedge makes the level-tool hold zero (or almost)
at the root (or tip).
3. Make shims or use tool (thin metallic-foil) with the following
thickness:
tan x * wedge-length. x is the washout.
4. Put both wedge and level on the flap/root and the reading should be
more or less zero (but the bubble position is more important)
5. Move the wedge and level to the tip and put the shims between the
wedge and the level far out as possible (relative wedge).
If the washout is correct it should read zero or bubble position the
same.
6. If not correct, put shims under the jig.
7. triple check that you have not make an inverted washout.
8. repeat 4-6 until you are happy with your washout and glue the jig
with 5 min epoxy.
Before the layup make a last washout check.
Save this wedge and shim for later use.
Good luck
Stephan Cassel
#556
>
>
> I've got my jigs shimmed and my flap cores aligned properly. But I
> have to admit I'm not completely certain how to make sure the washout
> is correct. Any help with this would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Simenauer
> A101
>
>
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Anderson" <dja767(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | 914 hot starting and paint booths. |
Paint booth:Problem negotiated. The Fire Chief did not agree with the actions of
the inspector. I won't be using it, but won't be cited. Airport will reimburse
plastic lost. Only 3 hours of talking settled the situation.
914 hot starting: I have found that the 914 engine is very hard to start when
Hot. I assumed it has been hot fuel, so I have used the technique of starting
with the fuel pump off (no mechanical one on the 914). What seems to happen is
as soon as I switch on the pump, the engine immediately dies. I can run it for
20 seconds and it still dies. What I am trying now is to run the engine with
the fuel pumps off before shutdown, letting the floats burn down ( sorry fire
department, I didn't mean burn literally - please don't cite me!) then run fuel
pump for a while before starting - circulating cool fuel up as far as the
pressure regulator and possibly into the partially empty floats. Then I start
with the fuel pump off and when I switch it on - that is done at higher RPM -
maybe 3500 or so. So far it seems to have worked.
Wish I knew why switching on the fuel pump has such an immediate effect on the
engine - must be injecting vapor rather than fuel??
Dave
A227
Mini U2
178 hours TT
Working on cowl flap, landing lights and cabin heater....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Dimension Please???????? |
Gidday,
I have a classic module and want to know the distance from the most aft
portion of the raised throttle portion of the XS module from the end of
the tunnel, up against the seat back, or from the firewall to the same aft
datum. Thanks in anticipation. This is to determine my finger brake location.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear |
Ivor,
Thanks for the dimensions. I have a graphics artist designing Decals for the finished
plane and needed the dimensions to get the decals run. I appreciate the
help. If anyone wants to use decals instead of painting a design on the outside
this person does a great job of designing for you and is quite reasonable.
I already have my design and am having it run now.
Al Stills
A095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? |
below
Gidday,
I have had my module fall partially off my sawhorses/trestles and
consequently I no longer have a bond between tank and the layups along the
base of the tank. I can however gain access with spatulas, or injecting
redux and rebonding same. Do people think it an imperative, or doesn't it
really matter? Also, once the module is in, has anyone packed or filled the
void under the tank with expanding foam etc., to more evenly distribute the
load of a full fuel tank and allow the fuse to share some of the weight
transfer rather than the load on the back of the module seat back alone?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimension Please???????? |
17-1/4 inches from seat back to throttle upright, and 22-1/4 inches from
firewall back to the same point.
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Dimension Please????????
>
> Gidday,
> I have a classic module and want to know the distance from the most aft
> portion of the raised throttle portion of the XS module from the end of
> the tunnel, up against the seat back, or from the firewall to the same aft
> datum. Thanks in anticipation. This is to determine my finger brake
location.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Washout |
>I'm not completely certain how to make sure the washout is correct
Listers, I've already corresponded direct with Dave about this, but
maybe I should repeat what I said here for everyone's benefit.
The dimensions given in my copy are in error because the trigonometry
appears to be based on the full width of the jig block. However, by
the time you are checking the washout, you will probably have cut
down the jig block to allow for LE wrapround, so smaller dimensions
are needed. When I discovered this, I wrote thus to Roger Bull at the
factory:
>Today I was preparing for the first layup on the starboard flap, and
>came across something else that I think needs at least
>clarification, if not correction, in the manual.
>
>What may affects other builders as well as me is the way the flap
>washout is specified to be set. (Incidentally, I couldn't follow the
>procedure in the manual, partly because the upper support blocks
>were cut away to a feather at the tips and the end of the TE support
>block was actually touching the table itself.) The manual specifies
>_removal_ of a shim of 8.4mm at the TE to give a 1.4deg change of
>angle. I left the TE alone, and _inserted_ a shim at the LE, and
>found that it needed something over 6mm to achieve a difference in
>angle of 1.4 deg between the root and the tip (measured with a MD
>Smart-Tool digital level, checked both ways round). At first I
>thought my thinner shim might just be because of the way the support
>block had been feathered off, but then I began to check the
>trigonometry.
>
>For the specified 8.4mm shim and an angle of 1.4deg, the baseline of
>the triangle (x) would have to be:
>
>x = 8.4 / tan(1.4)
>
>x = 8.4 / 0.0244
>
>x = 343.7mm
>
>That is about the chord of the whole flap at the tip. However, by
>the time the builder is checking the washout, about 75mm will have
>been cut off the jig block at the LE. The distance from the TE to
>the shortened LE edge of my jig block is 275mm. So, the shim (y)
>needed for that situation is:
>
>y = 275 * tan(1.4)
>
>y = 275 * 0.0244
>
>y = 6.72mm
>
>That is in the right ball-park for my measured value, and makes me
>feel that I've got it right.
>
>But the question is, has the manual been telling builders to use a
>shim appropriate for the jig _before_ cutting off the LE part when
>the procedure is much more likely to be done _after_ that operation?
>It appears the result would be to have washout of about 1.75 degrees
>instead of the specified 1.4 degress. Probably not a disaster, but
>not quite what was wanted.
And Roger responded:
>I am sure you must be right - as long as you end up with the correct
>washout, that's the main thing. I will suggest to Andy to put a
>note in the next Newsletter.
I'm not sure if anything ever appeared in the newsletter, though ...
Andy, Neville, care to comment, is the latest manual fixed on this
point?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 670 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Mansfield" <m(at)nsfield.screaming.net> |
| Subject: | re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear |
Hi Al,
I am interested in the graphic person - please send details.
Rgds
Paul M
XS Mono
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Stills
Subject: Europa-List: re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear
Ivor,
Thanks for the dimensions. I have a graphics artist designing Decals for the
finished plane and needed the dimensions to get the decals run. I appreciate
the help. If anyone wants to use decals instead of painting a design on the
outside this person does a great job of designing for you and is quite
reasonable. I already have my design and am having it run now. Al Stills
A095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS (looking for any excuse to go flying again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | flap operating rod clearance |
Anyone had problems fitting the flap operating rod? Mine is binding on the tunnel
wall by the small bulkhead and is very close to the main pitch tube at times.
I think all would be ok if I bent the rod so to be a little closer to the centre
line abeam the brake cylinder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris davis" <scrounge69(at)comcast.net> |
Dear europa list , I have been trying to send this message for six days but I
had an error in my email setup that made all my messages to the list not post
.Anyhow there is a europa motorglider kit on ebay complete firewall aft part
of an estate I believe they are asking a buy it now price of 23000 that's 12000
less than list But there has only been one bid in 6 days and there is no reserve!!!the
high is 15000It might be bought for less than23000anybody want just
the wing kit as I have my glider wings but need the fuselage kit? The item 3
is 2473552476 under Other Aircraft take alook just one day left in the auction.
Chris Davis A160 MG working on the glider wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel bearings |
Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style tailwheel (ie
without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old bearings
come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
Duncan McF.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Locks |
Richard,
A french builder some years ago had a brilliant idea which was a hinged
portion of metal on the vertical face of the thigh support, immediately
behind the stick. He would rotate this square plate about its top edge
hinge, orientated horizontally, and engage a semi-circular rebate in the
bottom of this "originally square aluminium plate", the stick would be
pulled back into it. Then, he had a semi-circular hook that was hinged on
one side, that allowed him to entrap the stick completely. The action of
stowing the control lock nicely locked componentry such as hooks into place
for safe flying. Fundamentally, you need to not be reliant on memory, so an
external lock I reckon is a bad idea. Must be internal, reachable from your
seat whilst belted up, and quickly removeable. Hope this helps. I think
there might have been some old pictures of it in a Europa Club magazine,
from about 4-5 years ago.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 05:49 AM 4/18/2004, you wrote:
>
>Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
>as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
>banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.
>
>Richard Iddon. G-RIXS (looking for any excuse to go flying again)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Duncan,
The bearings Kingsley Hurst knocked out the other night, easily. He worked
from the opposite side and just tapped them out as I recall him saying.
Message below pasted for your interest from a fellow at Spruce.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
From: "Craig Johnson" <craigjohnson(at)aircraftspruce.com>
Subject: Re: Product Query
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2004 10:48:24 -0700
Dear Tony
Yes the 06-00060 is for the 06-03500 and 06-03600 tailwheels.
These are sealed roller bearings and have no flange.
they are designed to replace the bushing type bearings are supplied
with the tailwheels. These do not have a flange either.
There is no other hardware required to hold them in place.
The bearing manufacturer is by JAF/KSK located in Japan.
Regards
Craig Johnson
Aircraft Spruce Tech Support
At 08:54 AM 4/18/2004, you wrote:
>
>
>Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style tailwheel (ie
>without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old bearings
>come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
>
>Duncan McF.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stills" <astills785(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear |
Paul,
The name of the designer is Callie at info@hobbies-n-stuff.com
They are located in Albuquerque New Mexico. She is a great designer and
designs all the decals for their hobby shop
planes and Heli's. Did a great job on mine as I told her the theme and
colors I wanted. She already has the dimensions for a trigear.
Al Stills
A095
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Mansfield" <m(at)nsfield.screaming.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear
>
> Hi Al,
>
> I am interested in the graphic person - please send details.
>
> Rgds
>
> Paul M
> XS Mono
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Stills
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: re:wheel Skirrts for Tri Gear
>
> Ivor,
> Thanks for the dimensions. I have a graphics artist designing Decals for
the
> finished plane and needed the dimensions to get the decals run. I
appreciate
> the help. If anyone wants to use decals instead of painting a design on
the
> outside this person does a great job of designing for you and is quite
> reasonable. I already have my design and am having it run now. Al Stills
> A095
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Drive pin attachment to trim tab |
| From: | "Andrew Sarangan" <europaxs(at)myrealbox.com> |
The manual calls for the TP16 drive pin to be parallel to the trim tab hinge line.
The way I understand it, the "L"-shaped template is used for positioning the
pin relative to the hinge line, but it does not necessarily make them parallel.
I've heard of people using a level for this, but it's not clear to me how
that is done. Any clues or photos would be appreciated.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel bearings |
Duncan McFadyean wrote:
> Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style
tailwheel (ie
without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
bearings
come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
Duncan,
I am in the process of doing this right now. The first bearing will tap
out quite easily with a round punch put through the hole in the opposite
side bearing and onto the outer ring of the bearing to be removed. Just
tap gently with a hammer and ensure you run the punch around the bearing
in order to keep it as straight as possible as it is coming out. The
second one is even easier.
The bearings in these wheels are 'wheel barrow' bearings would you
believe ? After seeing how they are made, I wouldn't even put one in a
wheel barrow.
I have purchased two fully sealed quality bearings of the same imperial
size (sorry haven't seen them yet so don't know the number) and I am
having circlip grooves machined inside the wheel in which to install
circlips to limit the inward positioning of the new bearings.
Hope this helps.
Pssst - don't tell Renshaw!!
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Drive pin attachment to trim tab |
I used 15 mm plywood and drilled a 6.0 mm (smaller than 1/4") hole
vertical to the surface with a pillar drill.
I left the template top wider than "25mm TYPICAL".
The pin is a tight fit in the 6.0 mm hole so that fixing the plywood
template in place holds the drive plate immobilized for application of
flox.
Fixing the template in place can all be done on the top surface of the
trim tab using a right angle and double sided tape. There are 3
rotating axes: one is set by the shape of the template, naturally, one
is easily set by marking the top surface of the trim tab at right
angles to the hinge line, the last is set by making sure the template
top stands at right angles to the trim tab top surface (that's why
it 's useful to have the template top be wider than 25mm).
This worked well.
Jan de Jong
#461
now contemplating hoe to best align the 2nd drive pin with the 1st.
Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
>
> The manual calls for the TP16 drive pin to be parallel to the trim tab hinge
line. The way I understand it, the "L"-shaped template is used for positioning
the pin relative to the hinge line, but it does not necessarily make them parallel.
I've heard of people using a level for this, but it's not clear to me how
that is done. Any clues or photos would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: flap operating rod clearance |
Hi Mike,
I had very similar problems and thought about bending the rod, but decided
that the various bends produced such a complex
movement that I was scared of losing my way on rebending. I found that I
could fit the Horn FL21 inboard of the Horn Plate FL19. This moved the rod
inboard by about 1/4" and improved the clearance.
Note that this was only possible because F21 was at its fullest extension to
give maximum range. I spoke to Neville about this when trying to solve
other flap rigging problems and he could see no technical problem with this
simple change.
Brian Davies kit 454. XS Mono
Just taken the fuselage out of the jig- looking at the various methods to
stop it falling over!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: flap operating rod clearance
>
> Anyone had problems fitting the flap operating rod? Mine is binding on the
tunnel wall by the small bulkhead and is very close to the main pitch tube
at times. I think all would be ok if I bent the rod so to be a little closer
to the centre line abeam the brake cylinder.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Thanks, that helps greatly.
Can you let me have the ID and total depth of the hub that the bearings sit
in please.
What stops the "wheel-barrow" bearings from migrating in the hub if the
original design?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
>
> Duncan McFadyean wrote:
> > Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style
> tailwheel (ie
> without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
> bearings
> come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
>
> Duncan,
>
> I am in the process of doing this right now. The first bearing will tap
> out quite easily with a round punch put through the hole in the opposite
> side bearing and onto the outer ring of the bearing to be removed. Just
> tap gently with a hammer and ensure you run the punch around the bearing
> in order to keep it as straight as possible as it is coming out. The
> second one is even easier.
>
> The bearings in these wheels are 'wheel barrow' bearings would you
> believe ? After seeing how they are made, I wouldn't even put one in a
> wheel barrow.
>
> I have purchased two fully sealed quality bearings of the same imperial
> size (sorry haven't seen them yet so don't know the number) and I am
> having circlip grooves machined inside the wheel in which to install
> circlips to limit the inward positioning of the new bearings.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Pssst - don't tell Renshaw!!
>
> Regards
> Kingsley Hurst
> Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
>I have had my module fall partially off my sawhorses/trestles and
consequently I no longer have a bond between tank and the layups along the
base of the tank. I can however gain access with spatulas, or injecting
redux and rebonding same. Do people think it an imperative, or doesn't it
really matter? Also, once the module is in, has anyone packed or filled the
void under the tank with expanding foam etc., to more evenly distribute the
load of a full fuel tank and allow the fuse to share some of the weight
transfer rather than the load on the back of the module seat back alone?<
The layups are to support the tank only. There is no way that the resin will
adhere permanently to the tank due to the nature of the tank material. Just
make sure that the tank sits high enough to allow the main spars to be
installed. The early build instructions did not make this clear and I had to
redo mine at the time.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Locks |
>Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.<
The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and central. This
is what I do when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or tailwheel
Europas don't have any problem with the rudder as they are interconnected
with the tailwheel preventing the rudder from blowing around in the wind.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
Richard
The control column lock Tony Renshaw referred to are pictured on Page 17
Europa Flyer No 26, November 2000.
You will find this on the Club CD if you have one. If not let me know and I
will forward the pictures to you.
They are attributed to Peter Days. Does anyone know any more about them?
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Ready to fly
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RICHARD
IDDON
Subject: Europa-List: Control Locks
Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS (looking for any excuse to go flying again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Locks |
>>> The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft <<
Not ideal if the wind shifts around during the night! i.e. full up elevator.
Also, loading the elevator against the stops may generate a lengthy
forum-thread about the dreaded tailplane pins!
Packing the control stick with cushions to achieve neutral elevator is not
without its limitations and the cushions tend to work loose.
Maybe a small built-for-the-job Dynafoam cushion that velcros-in at the
stick base would do (in conjunction with tying back with the seat harness);
this would cushion 'shock' loading of the controls and would be easily
defeated if the pilot failed to carry out "full and free" checks properly.
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Control Locks
>
> >Anyone got any bright idea's for control locks (preferably fairly simple
> as I am a simple soul) to stop my ailerons, tailplanes and rudder
> banging about in the wind whilst the airplane is parked.<
>
> The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and central.
This
> is what I do when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or
tailwheel
> Europas don't have any problem with the rudder as they are interconnected
> with the tailwheel preventing the rudder from blowing around in the wind.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Also (to answer my own question) the RV forum reports similar problems (the
RV uses the same wheel).
See:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=98232060?KEYS=tai
lwheel_bearings?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=03360322799?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
and a 'solution' at
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=98261301?KEYS=tai
lwheel_bearings?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=8?SERIAL=03360322799?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Seems that pumping grease into the grease nipple is a waste of time!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
>
> Duncan,
> The bearings Kingsley Hurst knocked out the other night, easily. He worked
> from the opposite side and just tapped them out as I recall him saying.
> Message below pasted for your interest from a fellow at Spruce.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
> From: "Craig Johnson" <craigjohnson(at)aircraftspruce.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Product Query
> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2004 10:48:24 -0700
>
> Dear Tony
>
> Yes the 06-00060 is for the 06-03500 and 06-03600 tailwheels.
> These are sealed roller bearings and have no flange.
> they are designed to replace the bushing type bearings are supplied
> with the tailwheels. These do not have a flange either.
> There is no other hardware required to hold them in place.
> The bearing manufacturer is by JAF/KSK located in Japan.
> Regards
> Craig Johnson
> Aircraft Spruce Tech Support
>
>
> At 08:54 AM 4/18/2004, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style tailwheel
(ie
> >without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
bearings
> >come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
> >
> >Duncan McF.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Has anyone used the new type of flap linear actuator now being supplied?
It's
"square" in section and is shown on page 3 of:
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2068.pdf
What stroke does this have (the old version, which was also used on RVs etc)
had a stroke of 6".
Page 1 of the manual referenced above seems to hint that the original flap
tube slots in the side of the fuselage may not be long enough for the new
actuator, implying that this now has a longer stroke and/or provides a
greater amount of flap movement.
If this is so, then it's my cue to legally increase my flap movement to
accord with the current design; the existing 25-ish degrees is not enough!
Duncan McF.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Duncan,
> Can you let me have the ID and total depth of the hub that the bearings
> sit in please.
Sorry but I dropped the wheel into an engineering shop in another town on
Friday when I was going away for the weekend. I will be away all this week,
19-23 April so won't be seeing the wheel and bearings again until the week
of 26-30 April.
> What stops the "wheel-barrow" bearings from migrating in the hub if the
> original design?
When you remove the first bearing, you will see it has a flange on its outer
edge which stops the bearing migrating inwards. The axle arrangement stops
them from moving outwards.
You will be impressed when you see the ball bearings in these bearings, they
look like lead shot ! !
> Or bond in a short length of tube to keep the outer races spaced apart.
Yes you could do this but I think it would be heavier than two circlips.
This was my original idea but one of my sons suggested the circlips. If a
sleeve is going to be used, It may be more advantageous to put it over the
axle section between the bearings in order to prevent over zealous side
loading of the bearings when the axle bolt and nut is tightened. Haven't
decided on this yet but I suspect it won't be necessary with good bearings
if the wheel-barrow bearings don't need it.
Cheers
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
Hi Duncan
Just ran my Actuator from stop to stop and only can get 99mm, considerably
less than 6 inches,
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Flap range
>
> Has anyone used the new type of flap linear actuator now being supplied?
> It's
> "square" in section and is shown on page 3 of:
>
>
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2068.pdf
>
> What stroke does this have (the old version, which was also used on RVs
etc)
> had a stroke of 6".
>
> Page 1 of the manual referenced above seems to hint that the original flap
> tube slots in the side of the fuselage may not be long enough for the new
> actuator, implying that this now has a longer stroke and/or provides a
> greater amount of flap movement.
>
> If this is so, then it's my cue to legally increase my flap movement to
> accord with the current design; the existing 25-ish degrees is not enough!
>
> Duncan McF.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Shafer" <bshafer(at)starnetwx.net> |
| Subject: | Europa Motor Glider Kit on Ebay |
There is a Europa Motor Glider kit for sale on Ebay.
Looking for help on a few questions?
1) Is the motor glider kit really just a regular XS kit with glider wings?
2) Have there been significant changes in the kits since 2001?
Thanks in advance.
Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Duncan
Sorry to report to you that the flaps actuator with the square shaft does
not travel more than the Mono flap drive does. I just converted and I think
I have a bit less travel in the down direction.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Back to the test flying.
>
> Has anyone used the new type of flap linear actuator now being supplied?
> It's
> "square" in section and is shown on page 3 of:
>
>
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Builder%20Support/Mods%20&%20SB/Mod%2068.pdf
>
> What stroke does this have (the old version, which was also used on RVs
etc)
> had a stroke of 6".
>
> Page 1 of the manual referenced above seems to hint that the original flap
> tube slots in the side of the fuselage may not be long enough for the new
> actuator, implying that this now has a longer stroke and/or provides a
> greater amount of flap movement.
>
> If this is so, then it's my cue to legally increase my flap movement to
> accord with the current design; the existing 25-ish degrees is not enough!
>
> Duncan McF.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
The supplied tailwheel on A-265 not only had poor quality bearings but it did not
run
true by 1/4 inch and was way out of balance.
I held it in my lathe and spun it and went after it with my 3 inch air disk sander
with 50 grit,and got it to run and balance pretty good.
As far as the bearings, Aircraft Spruce sells long life sealed replacement bearings
with a snap ring around the bearings. I don't see the part number online but it
is in
the catalogue. If someone needs the part number I can check at the hangar.
Wicks may sell the bearings??
Ron Parigoris
A-265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Yes please; the Spruce p/n would be useful to have.
Vans sells replacement bearings too. But those are the original
"wheel-barrow" type.
Did Mike Dolphin know something when he named his Europa "The Wheelbarrow".
Kinda all falling in to place and making sense!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
>
> The supplied tailwheel on A-265 not only had poor quality bearings but it
did not run
> true by 1/4 inch and was way out of balance.
>
> I held it in my lathe and spun it and went after it with my 3 inch air
disk sander
> with 50 grit,and got it to run and balance pretty good.
>
> As far as the bearings, Aircraft Spruce sells long life sealed replacement
bearings
> with a snap ring around the bearings. I don't see the part number online
but it is in
> the catalogue. If someone needs the part number I can check at the hangar.
>
> Wicks may sell the bearings??
>
> Ron Parigoris
> A-265
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
Tony
You filled the tank with fuel to expand it - now it has just shrunk again
until you fill it with juice again.
Do nothing, it will come right again when you start to use it.
J R (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327 in Oz
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Subject: Europa-List: Loose Tank "do I rebond"??? QUARANTINE_LEVEL=4.0
name
description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------
>
> Gidday,
> I have had my module fall partially off my sawhorses/trestles and
> consequently I no longer have a bond between tank and the layups along the
> base of the tank. I can however gain access with spatulas, or injecting
> redux and rebonding same. Do people think it an imperative, or doesn't it
> really matter? Also, once the module is in, has anyone packed or filled
the
> void under the tank with expanding foam etc., to more evenly distribute
the
> load of a full fuel tank and allow the fuse to share some of the weight
> transfer rather than the load on the back of the module seat back alone?
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | filling around hinges |
I'm starting to do some filling (so it won't be all left to the end
of the job) and am wondering how others dealt with the hinges already
riveted to some surfaces. It's the rudder I'm starting with - there
may be different questions with the other surfaces!
I have 2 inter-related questions.
If you don't fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level
of the hinge knuckles, how do you prevent accidental abrasion of the
hinge knuckle while sanding? Obviously if your hinge flange + BID
reinforcements is a bit thick so that the knuckles don't protrude
anyway, this question won't arise - but the next one will apply by
default.
If you do fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level of
the hinge knuckles, how do you get a neat line along the hinge
knuckle? Is there some clever way of masking it off while filling?
Removing excess filler in this area seems very difficult without
damaging the hinge (even a small scratch on it could be a dangerous
stress-riser).
All thoughts welcomed!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 670 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: filling around hinges |
Rowland
I discovered a neat little trick. It was after several times cleaning out
filler from hinges that I came up with it.
I had a problem getting the filler out of the hinge wire holes. An hobby
knife cleaned up the 1/2" spaces but the holes were really a problem.
I found that plastic trimmer line for the lawn trimmer just slipped in the
holes before I filled. Then when cleaning up, the knife cut the line off and
I could poke out the little pieces very easily.
You may have gathered that I did fill all the way to the top of the
knuckles.
Hope this helps.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Starting back on the test flights.
> I'm starting to do some filling (so it won't be all left to the end
> of the job) and am wondering how others dealt with the hinges already
> All thoughts welcomed!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Stab travel range |
However, just before fitting on the fuselage top, I took a last-minute
test of stab travel and found that in intervening months the range of travel
had reduced for some reason - and I got but 2.8deg nosedown and 11.6deg
Noseup travel! The trim travel works well, but the stab itself has reduced .
As well, I found the counterweight travel did not allow full noseup
travel, and I had not cut the trim slots long enough to permit full travel.
I lengthened the slots 1/8inch and the slot problem receded.
It was obvious I had failed to centre the TP18A swivelling rear end of
the counterweight arm to allow the arm to descend slightly into a happier
area, so I removed the two AN-3 bolts at the back and swivelled the TP18A
four turns shorter [1/8"]. Too much!
So I calculated the ratios of TP18A turns (32thread) to front end travel
of the counterweight and degrees of stab travel. At 2" +/- between aft bolts
and 30" length of applicable c/w arm I figured one turn [1/32" travel] of
TP18A equalled 1/2" change of countertweight position, and THAT equalled
2deg of stab position.
I'm wondering if anyone else ran into this condition, and whether my
calcs gibe with another's. If all is well, I will increase the travel of the
big pitch push rod to permit a greater range of stab travel [12deg to -4deg
in the book].
Any comments gratefully received.
Cheers, Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: filling around hinges |
| From: | Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)btinternet.com> |
I slit (tricky) a length of nylon tube & slid that over the hinge, that
prevented filler contamination & sanding damage.
(Now I'm wondering whether it's a good idea to paint the hinge?)
Roger
(still nearly ready to prime)
>
> I'm starting to do some filling (so it won't be all left to the end
> of the job) and am wondering how others dealt with the hinges already
> riveted to some surfaces. It's the rudder I'm starting with - there
> may be different questions with the other surfaces!
>
> I have 2 inter-related questions.
>
> If you don't fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level
> of the hinge knuckles, how do you prevent accidental abrasion of the
> hinge knuckle while sanding? Obviously if your hinge flange + BID
> reinforcements is a bit thick so that the knuckles don't protrude
> anyway, this question won't arise - but the next one will apply by
> default.
>
> If you do fill thickly enough to raise the surface above the level of
> the hinge knuckles, how do you get a neat line along the hinge
> knuckle? Is there some clever way of masking it off while filling?
> Removing excess filler in this area seems very difficult without
> damaging the hinge (even a small scratch on it could be a dangerous
> stress-riser).
>
> All thoughts welcomed!
>
> regards
>
> Rowland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)btclick.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
Duncan,
When I replaced the original pneumatic 8" tailwheel of my early
"Classic" with the newer solid wheel assembly, I was appalled by the
fact that the replacement had cheap (non aviation quality) bearings and
no spacer between to support the clamping force.
I removed the bearings and spacer from the original - and machined out
the new wheel to accept them. It took about an hour on the "Myford" and
didn't cost a penny. The wheel now runs perfectly true, feels smoother
and can be clamped positively without that horrible "gradual tightening"
feeling.
I believe you too have one of the early classics - so you might want to
dig out the original wheel and rob the bearings and spacer?
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Tailwheel bearings
Has anyone tried to replace the bearings to the solid XS-style tailwheel
(ie
without replacing the whole wheel asembly). How easily do the old
bearings
come out and is there a standard part that can replace them?
Duncan McF.
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | long ranger fuel tank |
Hello all,
I would like to make sure the long range tank fits into my plane before purchasing
one from Europa.
Is there any one flying to Le Touquet next Saturday (April 24) with a long range
tank I could borrow for a few minutes ?
R=E9mi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS 914 monowheel
Purchased with 65 hours and many things to fix. Now 240 hours.
Hello all,
I would like to make sure the long range tank fits into my plane before purchasing
one from Europa.
Is there any one flying to Le Touquet next Saturday (April 24) with a long range
tank I could borrow for a few minutes?
R=E9mi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS 914 monowheel
Purchased with 65 hours and many things to fix. Now 240 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
Cliiff and Brian.
Thanks for your input.
Rotating the flap rod helps considerably with clearance but still leaves me too
close for comfort to the tunnel side when the gear is down.
This would be corrected were I to position the flap horn on the inboard side of
FL19.
I have yet to finalise flap travel and flap rod adjustment and this will change
the geometry of the whole thing so I will leave worrying until I have time to
rig the wings and sort it out.
By the way, this afternoon I noticed that the flap tube was also close to fouling
the top captive nut for the inspection panel on the side of the tunnel. A warning
that this could happen would have been nice to read in the manual.
Regards
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Shaw
To: mp.gamble(at)virgin.net
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 4:47 AM
Subject: Flap rod
Mike
I have done two Moons and made them work with bending the rod. I thought at first
that would be easier, but found that by twisting the rod it fir OK. It will
come close to conflicting , but it worked for me.
Be sure to leave the end fitting loose so the rod can rotate to its best fir.
Then tighten up the lock nuts.
The problem I had was in the up position. The crosswise bar that goes out each
side to the flaps. It came up and hit the bulkhead. HARD ! Look out for that
problem too.
Good luck.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Back doing the test flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Stab travel range |
>Stab travel range
>
> I'm wondering if anyone else ran into this condition, and whether my
>calcs gibe with another's. If all is well, I will increase the travel of the
>big pitch push rod to permit a greater range of stab travel [12deg to -4deg
>in the book].
Ferg
go for +13 tp -5 IMHO. This was the range Pete Clarke demanded, (Pete did
all the early test flying, those 12 turn spins !)
You need the 13 to hold the tail down at low speed on the landing run. That
should cope with any variation in ground stance.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | colombian europa identity sought |
Air-Britain News for April 2004 reports a sighting of a Europa
registered UL2010 at Villavicencio sometime in 2003, but no c/n was
recorded. Does anyone know which kit number this is?
According to my records, it could be A002 (Jorge Agudelo), A003
(Jorge Luis Agudelo) or maybe even A238 (William Daniell) if he's a
real fast builder - but the position of this registration in the
issue sequence makes that very unlikely.
As you'll see from the tabulations on the Europa CLub website, the
other 2 Colombian Europas A004 UL-2002 (Ivan Agudelo) and A005
UL-2057 (Jaime Orozco) are accounted for.
Any info gratefully received.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (670 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Need some cockpit module help |
Gentlemen, (and ladies)
I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
--
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
In a message dated 4/19/2004 7:27:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
topglock(at)cox.net writes:
> I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
> module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
> Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
> the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> Neville told me to cut the rear of the CM even with the top of the tunnel.
> Actually, I trimmed mine slightly higher (3/16") than the tunnel so that the
> baggage bay creates a lip slightly higher than the tunnel top to hold panels
> in place that I made that cover my main gear area. When the panels are in
> place I have a continuous floor from the back of the seat to the rear bulkhead.
If you cut your CM any higher you're just reducing your baggage bay area.
Later on, when you bond > in the baggage bay, you'll use your pitch push rod as
a
> guide to get the angle of the baggage bay and the proper clearance for the
> pitch push rod. By taping a piece of 3/4" stock (plywood, 1x4, etc) to the
> pushrod and resting the baggage bay on it, you'll establish the proper clearance
> for the pitch push rod and the appropriate angle for mounting the baggage
> bay at the same time. You'll also have to trin the forward vertical flange of
> the baggage bay to fit around the tunnel.
I've seen some that left it up 2" or more above the tunnel, but I can't see
any reason to do so.
>
> Hope it helps!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Need some cockpit module help |
In newsletter 30 they say to trim level with the tunnel. I trimmed 1/4"
higher and put a couple layers of bid to finish the joint that is otherwise
well bonded with redux. The higher you trim the module above the tunnel the
more you reduce the baggage volume.
Kevin, A211 mono 914, priming flaps and ailerons with smoothprime.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rocketman
Subject: Europa-List: Need some cockpit module help
Gentlemen, (and ladies)
I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
--
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Ron,
I sell bearings as I run a bearing shop. The bearing you want is
a "499502H" by part number, I replaced mine a year ago and it makes a
big difference. They sell for about $5 each across the counter.
If my brain is not slow, it also might be called a 99502H. One has the
snap ring and one does not. They are China by mfg. but they seem to be OK
as I sell a bunch of them to lawn guys to replace the "wheel barrow
bearing". Those I sell at $2 each so you can see the difference. The
good 499502H are what is referred to as ground bearings and the " wbb"
are referred to as un ground style.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
writes:
>
>
> The supplied tailwheel on A-265 not only had poor quality bearings
> but it did not run
> true by 1/4 inch and was way out of balance.
>
> I held it in my lathe and spun it and went after it with my 3 inch
> air disk sander
> with 50 grit,and got it to run and balance pretty good.
>
> As far as the bearings, Aircraft Spruce sells long life sealed
> replacement bearings
> with a snap ring around the bearings. I don't see the part number
> online but it is in
> the catalogue. If someone needs the part number I can check at the
> hangar.
>
> Wicks may sell the bearings??
>
> Ron Parigoris
> A-265
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
Kevin Klinefelter wrote:
>
>In newsletter 30 they say to trim level with the tunnel. I trimmed 1/4"
>higher and put a couple layers of bid to finish the joint that is otherwise
>well bonded with redux. The higher you trim the module above the tunnel the
>more you reduce the baggage volume.
>
>Kevin, A211 mono 914, priming flaps and ailerons with smoothprime.
>
>
>
Thanks for the quick reply, everyone and to John for the very helpful
picture of his module, off list. I'll clip it just about tunnel level,
maybe a fraction above.
While I have you folks on the phone, I'm building my mono as a tri-gear
and I don't have the manual, or parts, for the tri-gear, yet (due next
month). What, if anything, should be changed before installing the CP
module? What about the mud flap that goes in the mono wheel bay? Is it
included in the tri-gear version? I don't have the brake M/C's yet,
either. Would it be better to wait until everything else arrives,
before bonding in the module? And finally, does the flap control system
work the same, in the tri-gear? I know that it is actuated,
electrically, but is the mechanism connecting the parts, the same in
both models?
Sorry to be so full of questions, but I'm really loving this build and
look forward to flying A055, ASAP... :)
Again, thanks in advance for any help...
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
Jeff
All good questions !
The mud guard bulkhead is not needed. (no mud)
The flaps are actuated with a linear actuator mounded under the baggage bay
on the skin of the fuselage. You will need to get to that part of the
installation before you can worry about its position. There will be no slot
for a flap/landing gear lever in the tunnel. (finely) I built finger brakes
instead of the extra foot pedals. John in Lakeland can get the master
cylinders for you.
Hope that helps.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
What about the mud flap that goes in the mono wheel bay?
I don't have the brake M/C's yet, either.
And finally, does the flap control system
> work the same, in the tri-gear? but is the mechanism connecting the
parts, the same in
> both models?
> --
> Jeff A055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
Cliff Shaw wrote:
>
>Jeff
>
>All good questions !
>
>The mud guard bulkhead is not needed. (no mud)
>
>The flaps are actuated with a linear actuator mounded under the baggage bay
>on the skin of the fuselage. You will need to get to that part of the
>installation before you can worry about its position. There will be no slot
>for a flap/landing gear lever in the tunnel. (finely) I built finger brakes
>instead of the extra foot pedals. John in Lakeland can get the master
>cylinders for you.
>
>Hope that helps.
>
>Cliff Shaw
>1041 Euclid ave.
>Edmonds, WA 98020
>425 776 5555
>
Thanks, Cliff. So the flaps mechanism is installed after the CP module
is in place? Guess I should have read a bit further...
I'll be contacting John, soon, so will look into the finger brake issue,
then.
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
My Europa Classic has now done over 600hrs on its 912UL engine.
I've become a little concerned of late with the lower oil pressure
reading reported on my Flydat.
From historic readings in the 3-4 bar arena, I now achieve just 2.4 -
2.8 bar at cruise RPM.
Formerly, I've used Silkolene Pro 4, fully synthetic oil, but have
recently changed to the semi-synthetic recommended by Skydrive, on
account of my occasional Avgas usage.
I've recently installed the pressure release valve mod (a small 'shim'
disc) and this has raised pressure from 1.5 bar at lowest RPM on landing
(rare), into the same 2 bar + range. It hasn't affected the higher RPM
pressures.
Do other "high hour" 912 users have similar figures, or are they higher
?
Any suggestions as to the reason for the pressure drop ?
Alan
Alan. D. Stewart
-----------------------------------
14 Goddard Way phone : +44 1245
264186
Chelmer Village mobile : +44
7801 287886
Chelmsford, Essex CM2 6UR email :
alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk
-----------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Alan Hi!
> My Europa Classic has now done over 600hrs on its 912UL engine.
> I've become a little concerned of late with the lower oil pressure
> reading reported on my Flydat.
> From historic readings in the 3-4 bar arena, I now achieve just 2.4 -
> 2.8 bar at cruise RPM.
Although I've not got by Europa aloft yet I'm lucky to fly with a couple of
local Europa's Pilots who got on and finished!
One has had to change his Oil Pressure Sender twice now on a 912S. The most
recent time was at about 260 hours and in this case it was over reading.
Changing the Sender fixed the problem. Might also be worth checking Sensor
wiring.
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Fuselage being Painted, Wings ready to paint, Flying surfaces painted
Airframe Wiring complete, Full Size Panel 60% done .
Includes Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder. AoA Fitted.
Activity on Panel, Heater Unit, Shoulder Width Mod.
http://www.g-fizy.com
+44 7808 402404
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
Just slightly above the tunnel is about right! your centre bulkhead needs
to have a 3/4 inch clearance above the pitch push rod.,
On mine the I cut It down to 1/2 inch above the tunnel, then set up the
height for the centre bulkhead above the pushrod
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rocketman" <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Need some cockpit module help
>
> Gentlemen, (and ladies)
>
> I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
> module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
> Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
> the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> Jeff - A055
> Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eamonn Sheridan <esheridan1(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Navaid working in reverse |
I have installed the Navaid AP1 and Servo unit as per the Europa Mod, but the servo
unit operates in reverse! When either the Trim or Turn pot is moved to the
left, the stick moves to the right. If the aircraft is tilted to the left, the
stick moves to the left. A bit worrying! There doesn't appear to be any means
of switching the mode in the servo unit or AP1. I was going to try reversing
the wires on the feedback potentiometer. Has anyone found this problem with
their installation? how did you overcome it?
Eamonn
G-ROOV
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid working in reverse |
Eamonn, My manual ( Navaid installed 3 yrs ago) on P8 says 'If the aileron
deflection is backwards you must reverse the direction of servo rotation.
Swap the motor wires at the motor. Swap end connections at the Feedback
pot--these wires are white with red tracer and white with black tracer'. The
other option if installation geometry allows is to install the servo crank
arm 180deg round.
Regards David
----- Original Message -----
From: Eamonn Sheridan <esheridan1(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Europa-List: Navaid working in reverse
>
> I have installed the Navaid AP1 and Servo unit as per the Europa Mod, but
the servo unit operates in reverse! When either the Trim or Turn pot is
moved to the left, the stick moves to the right. If the aircraft is tilted
to the left, the stick moves to the left. A bit worrying! There doesn't
appear to be any means of switching the mode in the servo unit or AP1. I
was going to try reversing the wires on the feedback potentiometer. Has
anyone found this problem with their installation? how did you overcome it?
>
> Eamonn
>
> G-ROOV
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Have you tried the new drug sample request service on Doctors.net.uk?
> http://www.doctors.net.uk/samples
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The rudder can be easily locked with a dowel of sufficient length to insert
into both horizontal tubes at the top of the rudder "pedals." Once in place
the rudder is fixed in a neutral position and can not move.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cripps, David
Subject: Europa-List: Control locks
Does anyone have good designs for control locks for the Europa? Now that I
am banished outdoors on the windy coast, I'm having to give such things
consideration. I'd prefer some sort of design that fitted on to the
wings/tail directly. I figure that this is more secure than simply locking
the control column/pedals in one position since even with the column/pedals
fixed, the wind can still blow the control surfaces around and rattle the
control runs and loosen the joints and pins.
I can see how to secure the ailerons (with a sort of V-shaped hat that would
go over aileron/flap/part of wing), but the tailplanes and rudder look to be
more difficult to hold in position externally.
Any thoughts?
David
Visit SP at stand D103 at the European Wind Energy Conference, Madrid,
Spain, 16th - 19th June 2003
****************************************************************************
******************
All sales of goods are subject to the terms and conditions of sale (the
Conditions)
of SP Systems (the Company) which are available on request from the Company
or may be viewed on our Website (http://www.spsystems.com).
Any advice given by the Company in connection with the sale of goods is
given
in good faith but the company only warrants that advice in writing is given
with
reasonable skill and care. All advice is otherwise given subject to the
Conditions.
The contents of this message and any attachments are confidential and
are intended solely for the attention and use of the addressee only.
Information contained in this message may be subject to legal,
professional or other privilege or may otherwise be protected by other
legal rules. This message should not be copied or forwarded to any other
person without the express permission of the sender. If you are not the
intended recipient you are not authorised to disclose, copy, distribute
or retain this message or any part of it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Control locks |
>>and can not move<<
Yes it can!
It will pull both pedals back together with one of the cables going slack.
This then leaves scope for the rudder to flap about, albeit it is stabilised
in this condition by the strength of both rudder springs acting together,
instead of having to pull against one (partially counterbalanced) spring
only in the absence of the "stops"
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Control locks
>
> The rudder can be easily locked with a dowel of sufficient length to
insert
> into both horizontal tubes at the top of the rudder "pedals." Once in
place
> the rudder is fixed in a neutral position and can not move.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cripps, David
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Control locks
>
>
>
> Does anyone have good designs for control locks for the Europa? Now that I
> am banished outdoors on the windy coast, I'm having to give such things
> consideration. I'd prefer some sort of design that fitted on to the
> wings/tail directly. I figure that this is more secure than simply
locking
> the control column/pedals in one position since even with the
column/pedals
> fixed, the wind can still blow the control surfaces around and rattle the
> control runs and loosen the joints and pins.
>
> I can see how to secure the ailerons (with a sort of V-shaped hat that
would
> go over aileron/flap/part of wing), but the tailplanes and rudder look to
be
> more difficult to hold in position externally.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> David
>
>
> Visit SP at stand D103 at the European Wind Energy Conference, Madrid,
> Spain, 16th - 19th June 2003
>
>
****************************************************************************
> ******************
> All sales of goods are subject to the terms and conditions of sale (the
> Conditions)
> of SP Systems (the Company) which are available on request from the
Company
> or may be viewed on our Website (http://www.spsystems.com).
>
> Any advice given by the Company in connection with the sale of goods is
> given
> in good faith but the company only warrants that advice in writing is
given
> with
> reasonable skill and care. All advice is otherwise given subject to the
> Conditions.
>
> The contents of this message and any attachments are confidential and
> are intended solely for the attention and use of the addressee only.
> Information contained in this message may be subject to legal,
> professional or other privilege or may otherwise be protected by other
> legal rules. This message should not be copied or forwarded to any other
> person without the express permission of the sender. If you are not the
> intended recipient you are not authorised to disclose, copy, distribute
> or retain this message or any part of it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Control locks |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Control locks
|
| The rudder can be easily locked with a dowel of sufficient length to insert
| into both horizontal tubes at the top of the rudder "pedals." Once in place
| the rudder is fixed in a neutral position and can not move.
|
|
| Best regards,
|
| Rob Housman
| Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
| Airframe complete
| Irvine, CA
Rob et al,
With respect, I don't think locking the pedals will do the trick. However
there is a simple but ugly solution. Two angle irons (alu), say 3/4x3/4x1/8inch
angles with 1/8" holes drilled in both arms - one angle attached to say,
aileron inboard edge so that one arm sticks down, and the other attached to
the wing undersurface with one arm sticking down - such that when neutral the
two holes coincide - allows a small lock or bolt to be inserted and inhibits
any motion. This can be duplicated on the stab.
The rudder presents a different problem, but bungees from rudder aft
edge to stab extremities might be an answer. My experience with locked control
linkage has not produced secure control surface fixing and continued small
motions soon become too big to ignore.
IMHO of course.
Ferg
A064
|
|_ _
_ _
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | cONTROL LOCKS AGAIN |
Oh, and another thing....... While locking controls, it occurs that (perish
forbid) perhaps gusts above flying speed might be encountered...............
That would require a change in control surface alignment to reduce the risk
of wind damage. If this arises at Home Base then a two-by-four (inch stud)
or similar board could be affixed the length of the wing, or tail or both to
destroy lift.
The problem is When Away.
perhpas someone better qualified might want to contribute a solution,
but all I see at the moment is a hinged balsawood slat (say, 1 x 36" - 3cm x
1m) which is centred at wingtop centre of lift and held in place by small
bungees might dump any lift. The bungees could be anchored by rings sewn
into wing covers.....? the slats are positioned say 2/3 out from fuselage or
wherever better.
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
Jeff,
Got to:
http://www.europa-aircraft.com/
Then builder support, > build manual updates.
The mono and tri are there.
Also ask John (Lakeland) for the drawing for mounting the finger brakes.
John, A230
----- Originhttp://www.europa-aircraft.com/al Message -----
From: "Rocketman" <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Need some cockpit module help
>
> Gentlemen, (and ladies)
>
> I can't seem to find any lines on the rear bulkhead of the cockpit
> module. I'm needing assistance in determining where to cut it off.
> Pics in the manual seem to show it cut at the same height as the top of
> the pitch rod tunnel. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> Jeff - A055
> Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
John & Amy Eckel wrote:
>
>Jeff,
>Got to:
>
>http://www.europa-aircraft.com/
>
>Then builder support, > build manual updates.
>
>The mono and tri are there.
>
>Also ask John (Lakeland) for the drawing for mounting the finger brakes.
>
>John, A230
>
>
>
John,
I've been to the Europa site and looked over the pages you recommended.
While they have some of the information, they seem to be corrections for
other pages, in the manual, and thus, are incomplete. I'll be giving
John Hurst a call, this week. Thanks for the info...
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Need some cockpit module help |
>I've been to the Europa site and looked over the pages you recommended.
>While they have some of the information, they seem to be corrections for
>other pages, in the manual, and thus, are incomplete. I'll be giving
>John Hurst a call, this week. Thanks for the info...
The complete manual is available in the members only section of the Europa
Club website.
Simon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
<<< The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and central. This
is what I do
when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or tailwheel Europas don't have
any problem
with the rudder as they are interconnected with the tailwheel preventing the rudder
from blowing
around in the wind. Nigel Charles >>>
Hi Nigel,
I have just got back from a trip to Sun N Fun at Lakeland, Florida and
agree with your comments regarding holding the stick with the passenger
seat belt. That part works fine. However, the rudder is another thing.
On the way down from North Carolina last week, the wind was very gusty
and turbulent and at one brief stop at Gainesville, Florida, I was
surprised to be paged in the FBO office to look after my plane because
it was blowing around !
The plane was chocked on the mainwheel and the control stick secured but
I found that since the rudder was not locked, the gusts were strong
enough to swing the plane quite a lot as the tailwheel will swing when
encouraged through almost 90 degrees; so I pulled the plane to an
adjacent tie down and secured the tail so that I could finish my morning
coffee. This was on concrete and may be less apparent on grass since the
wheel will dig in more. I do not have the solution for the problem yet
and it is on my list of 'to do' items. Any suggestions from fellow
Europaphiles would be appreciated.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid working in reverse |
Eamonn,
I recall someone saying "don't reverse the direction of these motors". Now
this mightnt be your Navaid, but until you know you can do that, my advice
is "don't". Hope this may save you a buck.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
At 06:27 PM 4/20/2004, you wrote:
>
>I have installed the Navaid AP1 and Servo unit as per the Europa Mod, but
>the servo unit operates in reverse! When either the Trim or Turn pot is
>moved to the left, the stick moves to the right. If the aircraft is tilted
>to the left, the stick moves to the left. A bit worrying! There doesn't
>appear to be any means of switching the mode in the servo unit or AP1. I
>was going to try reversing the wires on the feedback potentiometer. Has
>anyone found this problem with their installation? how did you overcome it?
>
>Eamonn
>
>G-ROOV
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
Simon Smith wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>I've been to the Europa site and looked over the pages you recommended.
>>While they have some of the information, they seem to be corrections for
>>other pages, in the manual, and thus, are incomplete. I'll be giving
>>John Hurst a call, this week. Thanks for the info...
>>
>>
>
>
>The complete manual is available in the members only section of the Europa
>Club website.
>
>Simon
>
>
>
>
Simon,
Thanks. I'm in communication with Rowland, at this moment.
Jeff
A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
The Katanas I rented had a terrific gust-lock, which could not be missed
(it had to be removed prior to being able to sit in the plane), was
portable, reasonably light, and locked all controls. Obviously this does
not get around the control play/loading as Ferg has pointed out, but it
worked quite well, and could be adapted, copied for the Europa.
I have a jpeg sketch I can forward to anyone interested....
Cheers,
Pete A239
-----Original Message-----
From: John & Paddy Wigney [mailto:johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net]
Subject: Europa-List: Control locks
<<< The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and
central. This is what I do
when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or tailwheel Europas
don't have any problem
with the rudder as they are interconnected with the tailwheel preventing
the rudder from blowing
around in the wind. Nigel Charles >>>
Hi Nigel,
I have just got back from a trip to Sun N Fun at Lakeland, Florida and
agree with your comments regarding holding the stick with the passenger
seat belt. That part works fine. However, the rudder is another thing.
On the way down from North Carolina last week, the wind was very gusty
and turbulent and at one brief stop at Gainesville, Florida, I was
surprised to be paged in the FBO office to look after my plane because
it was blowing around !
The plane was chocked on the mainwheel and the control stick secured but
I found that since the rudder was not locked, the gusts were strong
enough to swing the plane quite a lot as the tailwheel will swing when
encouraged through almost 90 degrees; so I pulled the plane to an
adjacent tie down and secured the tail so that I could finish my morning
coffee. This was on concrete and may be less apparent on grass since the
wheel will dig in more. I do not have the solution for the problem yet
and it is on my list of 'to do' items. Any suggestions from fellow
Europaphiles would be appreciated.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Control locks |
John,I guess the plane would still have blown around whether or not you had
a rudder lock, and comprehensive tie down or a hangar are the solutions for
that.
It is however easy to make an efficient rudder lock with an airfoil
shaped piece of thick ply, lined with carpet, which slides over the top of
fin & rudder. I have used this sort of thing for trailing, combined with a
shock cord going through the trim slots, around the trim actuator 'T' bar
(to stop it rattling) and holding the ply tight down on the fin & rudder.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Control locks
>
>
> <<< The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and central.
This is what I do
> when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or tailwheel Europas
don't have any problem
> with the rudder as they are interconnected with the tailwheel preventing
the rudder from blowing
> around in the wind. Nigel Charles >>>
>
>
> Hi Nigel,
>
> I have just got back from a trip to Sun N Fun at Lakeland, Florida and
> agree with your comments regarding holding the stick with the passenger
> seat belt. That part works fine. However, the rudder is another thing.
> On the way down from North Carolina last week, the wind was very gusty
> and turbulent and at one brief stop at Gainesville, Florida, I was
> surprised to be paged in the FBO office to look after my plane because
> it was blowing around !
>
> The plane was chocked on the mainwheel and the control stick secured but
> I found that since the rudder was not locked, the gusts were strong
> enough to swing the plane quite a lot as the tailwheel will swing when
> encouraged through almost 90 degrees; so I pulled the plane to an
> adjacent tie down and secured the tail so that I could finish my morning
> coffee. This was on concrete and may be less apparent on grass since the
> wheel will dig in more. I do not have the solution for the problem yet
> and it is on my list of 'to do' items. Any suggestions from fellow
> Europaphiles would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers, John
>
> N262WF, mono XS, 912S
> Mooresville, North Carolina
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Have you tried the new drug sample request service on Doctors.net.uk?
> http://www.doctors.net.uk/samples
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)ukonline.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Control locks |
Hi! All
I use an off the shelf length of thermal pipe insulation cut down the middle
and cable tied together at each end to drop over the fin and rudder then
anchor it down with two coat hanger hooks into the trim slots to the middle
of the lengths of insulation. Very light and portable for the away landings.
However be sure to anchor the control stick with the seat belts first to
stop the pitch control allowing the tail planes to smack the hooks.
regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Control locks
>
> John,I guess the plane would still have blown around whether or not you
had
> a rudder lock, and comprehensive tie down or a hangar are the solutions
for
> that.
> It is however easy to make an efficient rudder lock with an
airfoil
> shaped piece of thick ply, lined with carpet, which slides over the top of
> fin & rudder. I have used this sort of thing for trailing, combined with a
> shock cord going through the trim slots, around the trim actuator 'T' bar
> (to stop it rattling) and holding the ply tight down on the fin & rudder.
> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: Europa-List
> Subject: Europa-List: Control locks
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > <<< The seat belt can be adjusted to hold the stick fully aft and
central.
> This is what I do
> > when I tie the aircraft down for a nightstop. Mono or tailwheel Europas
> don't have any problem
> > with the rudder as they are interconnected with the tailwheel preventing
> the rudder from blowing
> > around in the wind. Nigel Charles >>>
> >
> >
> > Hi Nigel,
> >
> > I have just got back from a trip to Sun N Fun at Lakeland, Florida and
> > agree with your comments regarding holding the stick with the passenger
> > seat belt. That part works fine. However, the rudder is another thing.
> > On the way down from North Carolina last week, the wind was very gusty
> > and turbulent and at one brief stop at Gainesville, Florida, I was
> > surprised to be paged in the FBO office to look after my plane because
> > it was blowing around !
> >
> > The plane was chocked on the mainwheel and the control stick secured but
> > I found that since the rudder was not locked, the gusts were strong
> > enough to swing the plane quite a lot as the tailwheel will swing when
> > encouraged through almost 90 degrees; so I pulled the plane to an
> > adjacent tie down and secured the tail so that I could finish my morning
> > coffee. This was on concrete and may be less apparent on grass since the
> > wheel will dig in more. I do not have the solution for the problem yet
> > and it is on my list of 'to do' items. Any suggestions from fellow
> > Europaphiles would be appreciated.
> >
> > Cheers, John
> >
> > N262WF, mono XS, 912S
> > Mooresville, North Carolina
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > Have you tried the new drug sample request service on Doctors.net.uk?
> > http://www.doctors.net.uk/samples
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hedley brown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa to Liberty |
I was all set to fly down to Cranfield for the lecture and stay over to
return home the next day, but when I got to my Fishburn base there was a
supra-Europan 90deg wind. So I wimpishly refrained. Seeing the weather
today, I'm quite glad I did. But I would have liked to hear what Ivan said;
I note that he named his American Europa after the Liberty engine of the
20's which alone weighed more than a complete Europa! Did anyone get to the
talk, and is there any chance of a transcript of it being made available on
this net? H
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Europa to Liberty
>
> Those of you capable of beating a path to Bedfordshire, England, may be
> interested to know that Ivan Shaw will be giving a lecture to the
Cranfield
> Branch of the Royal Aeronautical Society at 7 PM on Tuesday 20th April
2004.
> The title of his talk will be "From Europa to Liberty" and he will
describe
> how he went from designing the Europa kit plane to develop the Liberty
XL-2
> certified aircraft, which received its FAA type certificate on 19 Feb this
> year.
>
> Further details are available on the Cranfield College of Aeronautics web
> site:
> http://www.ccoa.aero/events/raeslecture.asp
> Location maps may be found on the Cranfield University web site:
> http://www.cranfield.ac.uk/visit/
> No tickets are required and visitors are welcome. Enquiries to + 44 (0)
> 1234 754743.
>
> Mike Gregory
> Classic Monowheel kit 94
> Europa Club Safety Officer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jos Okhuijsen <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
Hi List,
Are there good reasons for not putting the flash generator units in the
wings, on an inspection cover? The size is 9 x 14 cm base, 6.5 high.
weight 250 gr. How is the reliability of these (aeroflash) units? Maybe
the inspection cover could be made when, if ever, needed, and just fix the
units inside? It would save some cable, keep the high voltage far from
other equipment, be on a neutral c&g point and save space for other
gadgets in the fuselage. Comments please!
Jos Okhuijsen, #600, close to closing (wings)
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: flash generator units |
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
Hi Jos
The flash units (power), may cause interference with your COM-radio
and if it the unit is installed as far as possible (i.e wing tip)
from the radio the chance is better to avoid noise.
I bought aeroflash and they seems to work ok. I have been recommended
aeroflash from other pilots.
I think you should make the inspection panel ahead. Sooner or later
you will need to inspect the unit.
http://www.fpp.nu/europa/cap3/images4/DSCN1039.JPG (inpection panel)
http://www.fpp.nu/europa/cap3/images4/DSCN1029.JPG (unit)
http://www.fpp.nu/europa/cap3/images4/DSCN1027.JPG (strobe-installation-
hole )
Regards
Stephan
#556
> Hi List,
>
> Are there good reasons for not putting the flash generator units in the
> wings, on an inspection cover? The size is 9 x 14 cm base, 6.5 high.
> weight 250 gr. How is the reliability of these (aeroflash) units? Maybe
> the inspection cover could be made when, if ever, needed, and just fix
> the units inside? It would save some cable, keep the high voltage far
> from other equipment, be on a neutral c&g point and save space for
> other gadgets in the fuselage. Comments please!
>
> Jos Okhuijsen, #600, close to closing (wings)
>
> --
> Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
>
>
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | flash generator units |
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
Hi Jos
The flash units (power), may cause interference with your COM-radio
and if it the unit is installed as far as possible (i.e wing tip)
from the radio the chance is better to avoid noise.
I bought aeroflash and they seems to work ok. I have been recommended
aeroflash from other pilots.
I think you should make the inspection panel ahead. Sooner or later
you will need to inspect the unit.
http://www.fpp.nu/europa/cap3/images4/DSCN1039.JPG (inpection panel)
http://www.fpp.nu/europa/cap3/images4/DSCN1029.JPG (unit)
http://www.fpp.nu/europa/cap3/images4/DSCN1027.JPG (strobe-installation-
hole )
Regards
Stephan
#556
>
> Hi List,
>
> Are there good reasons for not putting the flash generator units in the
> wings, on an inspection cover? The size is 9 x 14 cm base, 6.5 high.
> weight 250 gr. How is the reliability of these (aeroflash) units? Maybe
> the inspection cover could be made when, if ever, needed, and just fix
> the units inside? It would save some cable, keep the high voltage far
> from other equipment, be on a neutral c&g point and save space for
> other gadgets in the fuselage. Comments please!
>
> Jos Okhuijsen, #600, close to closing (wings)
>
> --
> Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
>
>
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
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> _-
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> _-
========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Control locks |
Hi John
>The plane was chocked on the mainwheel and the control stick secured but I
found that since the rudder was not locked, the gusts were strong enough to
swing the plane quite a lot as the tailwheel will swing when encouraged
through almost 90 degrees; so I pulled the plane to an adjacent tie down and
secured the tail so that I could finish my morning coffee. This was on
concrete and may be less apparent on grass since the wheel will dig in more.
I do not have the solution for the problem yet and it is on my list of 'to
do' items. Any suggestions from fellow Europaphiles would be appreciated.<
Thanks for the info. Your problem is more relevant in the USA as you have
more concrete/tarmac. In Europe, even at airfields with hard surfaces, there
is usually parking available on grass. If I leave my Europa unattended for
any period of time when there is any significant wind I always tie it down.
With monowheels I have found that just two tie down points (mainwheel and
tailwheel) is all that is required. With a tie down at the tailwheel the
tail cannot swing preventing any rudder deflection.
Regards
Nigel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
>One has had to change his Oil Pressure Sender twice now on a 912S. The most
recent time was at about 260 hours and in this case it was over reading.<
I have had to change my oil pressure sender once. When it failed it just
indicated zero. I believe these senders suffer a lot from vibration.
Although I haven't done it yet, it might be worth mounting it remotely from
the engine using rubber hose. This was suggested once before. Has anyone any
experience of this? Although it increases the number of pipe connections it
should improve sender reliability.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
Hi Alan,
That does seem low. My engine is a 912UL and has done 580 flying hours and
I still get 4 bar at 2000 rpm when hot. Unless you have run a bearing it is
probably a weak pressure relief valve, or faulty pressure sender. Because
the senders are known to give trouble and are subject to vibration, I have
mounted mine on top of the footwell and have fitted a low pressure warning
light as a backup. I use Shell Advance VSX4. I hope it
is nothing more serious than that.
Regards,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure
>
>
> My Europa Classic has now done over 600hrs on its 912UL engine.
>
> I've become a little concerned of late with the lower oil pressure
> reading reported on my Flydat.
>
> From historic readings in the 3-4 bar arena, I now achieve just 2.4 -
> 2.8 bar at cruise RPM.
>
> Formerly, I've used Silkolene Pro 4, fully synthetic oil, but have
> recently changed to the semi-synthetic recommended by Skydrive, on
> account of my occasional Avgas usage.
>
> I've recently installed the pressure release valve mod (a small 'shim'
> disc) and this has raised pressure from 1.5 bar at lowest RPM on landing
> (rare), into the same 2 bar + range. It hasn't affected the higher RPM
> pressures.
>
> Do other "high hour" 912 users have similar figures, or are they higher
> ?
>
> Any suggestions as to the reason for the pressure drop ?
>
> Alan
>
>
> Alan. D. Stewart
> -----------------------------------
>
> 14 Goddard Way phone : +44 1245
> 264186
> Chelmer Village mobile : +44
> 7801 287886
> Chelmsford, Essex CM2 6UR email :
> alan.stewart(at)blueyonder.co.uk
>
> -----------------------------------
>
>
> _____
>
> I've stopped 273 spam messages. You can too!
> Get your free, safe spam protection at www.cloudmark.com
> <http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnet?v1>
> <http://www.cloudmark.com/> Cloudmark SpamNet - Join the fight against
> spam!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel bearings |
I checked on the Tailwheel bearings from Aircraft Spruce last night. They are
sealed bearings with snap ring in the middle of the outer race.
They are called long Life Sealed Bearings P/N 06-0060 and were $11.95 ea. in
the 2002/2003 Catalogue.
Ron Parigoris
James Nelson wrote:
> Ron,
> I sell bearings as I run a bearing shop. The bearing you want is
> a "499502H" by part number, I replaced mine a year ago and it makes a
> big difference. They sell for about $5 each across the counter.
> If my brain is not slow, it also might be called a 99502H. One has the
> snap ring and one does not. They are China by mfg. but they seem to be OK
> as I sell a bunch of them to lawn guys to replace the "wheel barrow
> bearing". Those I sell at $2 each so you can see the difference. The
> good 499502H are what is referred to as ground bearings and the " wbb"
> are referred to as un ground style.
>
> Jim Nelson
> N15JN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
I was idly looking through the engine installation manuals on the club
website and was looking through the 912/S manual (I have a 914).
It talks about a cut-out and splash moulding in the front of the cowling to
direct air into the cylinder cowl. The 914 manual does not mention this but
my 914 is fitted with the cowl, should it be? Do I need the cut-out/splash
moulding or will the little bent tab in the cooling duct to the radiators
(which is missing on the 912/S) do the job?
Simon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Fogg" <bcfogg(at)onetel.net.uk> |
Hi All
If anyone is interested I have finished with my fuselage dolly and am offering
it for sale.
It is an "A" frame made from rectangular section steel tube 2" x 1" and 1 1/4"
steel angle cross members. There are 5 bulkheads to support the fuselage, 3 wheels
and 4 screw jacks to raise and level the whole thing. It is very rigid when
levelled and all the work in the rear fuselage can be completed before putting
the top on.
It is part welded and part bolted together so that it dismantles and the long sideframes
fit on a roofrack with the bulkheads and legs going in the boot.
If anyone is interested, reply off line and I will phone you back.
Cheers
Brian Fogg (385) (Cheshire)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
Hi Nigel,
I did this about 200 hrs ago (see my reply to Alan Stewart). I am still on
the original sender unit and it appears to be still "going strong". In case
it did fail in flight and show zero pressure, if the low pressure warning
light did not illuminate, I consider I would not have to land immediately.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure
>
Has anyone any
> experience of this? Although it increases the number of pipe connections
it
> should improve sender reliability.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RiteAngle3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Europas with RiteAngle installed |
Hi Europa builders installing or flying the RiteAngle AOA system.
Are you proud of your aircraft?
I have had quite a few individual messages returned due to e-mail address
changes and felt this was one way to reach the largest group of
builders/flyers.
I am in the process of updating the photos of the RiteAngle AOA system
installed on aircraft on our website, Instructional CD and my photo book I'll
have
on display at AirVenture. I appreciate all photos, however those which show
the display, Vane and / or a unique way of solving any problem related to
RiteAngle AOA
system would be appreciated along with a full aircraft photo.
E-mailing these is fine, please give S/N of RiteAngle and approximate hours
flown if you are completed building and "in the air."
To those who have already replied, thanks!
Please contact off list.
Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle
Elbie
EM Aviation, LLC
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
While at Sun and Fun last week one item that I wanted to investigate were the
three in one wing tip lights. I spent some time with the rep from Whelin.
Naturally my first question was why their system was over $300 more than the
aero flash units?
He pointed out some differences between the two.
One item was the strobe tube. Whelin's tube is a pig tail and the Aero unit
is a horseshoe shape. The rep said that this design allowed for more flash
area in the unit.
He also stated that his unit was defiantly brighter and can be seen further.
Which is why we install the devises in the first place. In fact the Aero Flash
units "may not meet FAA requirements for light intensity." I question that...
In addition we spoke of where to install the box. I mentioned that many have
chosen to install in the wing in hopes of eliminating flash noise on the Com.
He said that so long that the Whelin unit was directly grounded to battery,
and shielded wiring was used it should not be a problem for cockpit
installation. Additionaly he noted that the wire shielding could have a lug attached
and
grounded to the mounting screws on the box for enhanced protection.
All this being said I'm still looking for feed back from fellow builders.
Opinions please!
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry Stout" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
I have had the Whelen "3 light" wingtip system installed and flying for 4
years. The power supply unit seems to have a life of about 2 years as I had
to send mine in for repair at 2 years, and now again just yesterday. Not
sure why they are failing at that rate. Mine is mounted on the rear "D"
baggage bulkhead.
Garry Stout
A060, trigear, flying
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
>
> While at Sun and Fun last week one item that I wanted to investigate were
the
> three in one wing tip lights. I spent some time with the rep from Whelin.
> Naturally my first question was why their system was over $300 more than
the
> aero flash units?
>
> He pointed out some differences between the two.
> One item was the strobe tube. Whelin's tube is a pig tail and the Aero
unit
> is a horseshoe shape. The rep said that this design allowed for more
flash
> area in the unit.
>
> He also stated that his unit was defiantly brighter and can be seen
further.
> Which is why we install the devises in the first place. In fact the Aero
Flash
> units "may not meet FAA requirements for light intensity." I question
that...
>
>
> In addition we spoke of where to install the box. I mentioned that many
have
> chosen to install in the wing in hopes of eliminating flash noise on the
Com.
> He said that so long that the Whelin unit was directly grounded to
battery,
> and shielded wiring was used it should not be a problem for cockpit
> installation. Additionaly he noted that the wire shielding could have a
lug attached and
> grounded to the mounting screws on the box for enhanced protection.
>
> All this being said I'm still looking for feed back from fellow builders.
> Opinions please!
>
> Brian S
> A276 Tri Gear. Texas
>
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
> llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> He also stated that his unit was defiantly brighter and can be seen further.
> Which is why we install the devises in the first place. In fact the Aero
> Flash units "may not meet FAA requirements for light intensity."
> I question that...
Why do you question it? If Aeroflash strobes met Part 23 requirements, they would
surely say so. They don't.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
In a message dated 4/21/2004 2:22:58 PM Central Standard Time,
n3eu(at)comcast.net writes:
Why do you question it? If Aeroflash strobes met Part 23 requirements, they
would surely say so. They don't.
Regards,
Fred F.
Because Fred I tend to question everything a sales rep says to me... Perhaps
it is because I am a sales Rep for a parts company. :) And yes I know that
they are not part 23. Thought that was a given.
Do you have any personal experiences with these units that you would like
to share?
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
In a message dated 4/21/2004 12:24:28 PM Central Standard Time,
garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com writes:
have had the Whelen "3 light" wingtip system installed and flying for 4
years. The power supply unit seems to have a life of about 2 years as I had
to send mine in for repair at 2 years, and now again just yesterday. Not
sure why they are failing at that rate. Mine is mounted on the rear "D"
baggage bulkhead.
Wow Gary! That reliability is a bit disheartening. The salesman from Wicks
lead me to believe that the AEROFLASH unit was even less reliable.
Any experience with noise?
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
>>Although it increases the number of pipe connections <<
I find it more worrying that a large vibrating mass (i.e. the sender) is
attached to the engine by a spindly, stress-concentrated 1/8 NPT male
thread. However, there are no documented failures that I know of, so perhaps
I shouldn't worry.
My sender costs USD17 from 'Spruce. So who cares if it fails!
It's remotely mounted.
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure
>
> >One has had to change his Oil Pressure Sender twice now on a 912S. The
most
> recent time was at about 260 hours and in this case it was over reading.<
>
> I have had to change my oil pressure sender once. When it failed it just
> indicated zero. I believe these senders suffer a lot from vibration.
> Although I haven't done it yet, it might be worth mounting it remotely
from
> the engine using rubber hose. This was suggested once before. Has anyone
any
> experience of this? Although it increases the number of pipe connections
it
> should improve sender reliability.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
| Subject: | flash generator units |
Brian
You can get the same Whelen made strobe electronics for about half the
price that Whelen charges for their units made for airplanes. I think I
got mine from strobes.com. If you don't find them, I can look it up.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
In a message dated 4/21/2004 2:22:58 PM Central Standard Time,
n3eu(at)comcast.net writes:
Why do you question it? If Aeroflash strobes met Part 23 requirements,
they
would surely say so. They don't.
Regards,
Fred F.
Because Fred I tend to question everything a sales rep says to me...
Perhaps
it is because I am a sales Rep for a parts company. :) And yes I know
that
they are not part 23. Thought that was a given.
Do you have any personal experiences with these units that you would
like
to share?
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&n
ame=ga
llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | N378PJ a real airplane now! |
Hi all,
I just wanted to let you know that I got my official airworthiness certificate
from the FAA today. I am not quite ready to fly it yet, but its a nice milestone
to pass.
Cheers, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
But Duncan you have not allowed for the cost of replacement underpants when
the oil pressure drops to zero!
Pete
PS On special at Tesco should the Europa Club hold spares?
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N378PJ a real airplane now! |
Paul McAllister wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I just wanted to let you know that I got my official airworthiness certificate
from the FAA today. I am not quite ready to fly it yet, but its a nice milestone
to pass.
>
>Cheers, Paul
>
>
>
Congratulations, Paul. I look forward to the day I can announce the same...
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
----- Original Message -----
From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure
> I have had to change my oil pressure sender once. When it failed it just
> indicated zero. I believe these senders suffer a lot from vibration.
> Although I haven't done it yet, it might be worth mounting it remotely
from
> the engine using rubber hose. This was suggested once before. Has anyone
any
> experience of this? Although it increases the number of pipe connections
it
> should improve sender reliability.
After a second sensor failure I fitted the replacement sensor by means of a
'P' clip to the top of the air duct for the oil/water radiators and
connected it to the engine with 0.3 metres of Speedflex SS braided Teflon
hose with 1/8" NPT terminals. 17.80p from Earls Performance Products of
Silverstone. (PFA Mod. No. 10708).
Fitted nearly 100 hours ago and no failure since.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
Hi
I wonder if anyone has had their oil presure suddenly go to zero and have subsequently
calculated the forces (both instant and sustained) on said under garments?
I also have a randomly fluctuating presure (in the range 44 to 60 ish psi.) Is
this syptomatic of a failing sender?
Regards
Rick
G-RIKS 912s Tri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N378PJ a real airplane now! |
Paul
Way to go ! We will be waiting for your next email reporting your first
flight.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
flew 2 test hours today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Ceiling Panel Compasses |
Gidday,
I am wondering about incorporating the anchorage points for an overhead
compass at this stage of my build. The SIRS range appear very nice looking
compasses but seem to hang down quite a way. Any advice or recommendations
out there for a low profile option.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Undecided
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
Brian
I installed the Whelin three in one lights/strobes in the build process. These
lights have
500 + hr. on them with no problems.
On installation make sure that the ground wire is continuous through the wing disconnect
fitting, from the wing tip to the box. Which was installed behind the baggage compartment.
Then make sure the box is grounded also. This should eliminate noise in the headset.
Jim
N398JB
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> While at Sun and Fun last week one item that I wanted to investigate were the
> three in one wing tip lights. I spent some time with the rep from Whelin.
> Naturally my first question was why their system was over $300 more than the
> aero flash units?
>
> He pointed out some differences between the two.
> One item was the strobe tube. Whelin's tube is a pig tail and the Aero unit
> is a horseshoe shape. The rep said that this design allowed for more flash
> area in the unit.
>
> He also stated that his unit was defiantly brighter and can be seen further.
> Which is why we install the devises in the first place. In fact the Aero Flash
> units "may not meet FAA requirements for light intensity." I question that...
>
> In addition we spoke of where to install the box. I mentioned that many have
> chosen to install in the wing in hopes of eliminating flash noise on the Com.
> He said that so long that the Whelin unit was directly grounded to battery,
> and shielded wiring was used it should not be a problem for cockpit
> installation. Additionaly he noted that the wire shielding could have a lug attached
and
> grounded to the mounting screws on the box for enhanced protection.
>
> All this being said I'm still looking for feed back from fellow builders.
> Opinions please!
>
> Brian S
> A276 Tri Gear. Texas
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
> llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
Nigel
If memory serves me right, I remember several years ago that Katana sent a service
bulletin to their dealers on this very same subject. Their solution to the failed
oil pressure sender problem was to remotely mount the sender on the firewall by
a
flexible hose.
I'm sorry to say but I have just replaced my third sender in 500 hrs. It would
appear I am a slow learner.......
Jim Brown
N398JB
nigel charles wrote:
>
> >One has had to change his Oil Pressure Sender twice now on a 912S. The most
> recent time was at about 260 hours and in this case it was over reading.<
>
> I have had to change my oil pressure sender once. When it failed it just
> indicated zero. I believe these senders suffer a lot from vibration.
> Although I haven't done it yet, it might be worth mounting it remotely from
> the engine using rubber hose. This was suggested once before. Has anyone any
> experience of this? Although it increases the number of pipe connections it
> should improve sender reliability.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Anderson" <dja767(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | HVLP Turbine Sprayer |
Fellow Europa Builders,
This is a frustration relieving write-up that will hopefully shed some light on
the technical situation, depend in on the knowledge base out there.
When I painted the airplane for the first time, I read a glowing article about
the 4 stage turbine HVLP sprayers in Sport Aviation. They said that would give
the ultimate finish and be easy for the rannk amateur to use, so since I want
the ultimate finish, I spent the huge amount of money one. The results of this
decision have not been good. I am now looking into buying a huge air compressor
and a water/oil separator and a normal HVLP gun that works off of that coompressor.
The issue with the turbine has been the heating of the air prior to
the gun and the resulting problems with the paint finish from that - orange peel
for one. Every painter and paint rep has said the same thing - I should just
use a regular HVLP gun running off an air compressor.
When I purchased the turbine rig, from what I read, I thought I was buying the
ultimate and when I happened to mention it to a painter, he would be in awe
and amazement that I have access to this advanced painting gun. Instead from what
I have seen, nobody but those who sell those guns recommends them. I even
noticed that the article in Sport Aviation (recommending my specific model of
turbine HVLP gun) was written by the person who sells those turbine sprayers!
Have I been duped? Is there some secret to making that expensive monument to inexperience
useful? Should I even bother trying to use it with my now new idea
- acrylic urethane finish paint? Inquiring minds want to know.
The paint gun people say that the painters are living in the past and the turbine
is the only way to go. Usually advances in technology catch on and out sell
the competition and that brings out the truth in the end. As far as I can tell,
that is not the case here.
I can't WAIT until the airplane is finally repainted and I can put this all behind!
Hopefully the finish will last a long time. It is a good feeling, though,
to be supporting the economy by spending three times as much as I needed to
in order to paint the airplane!
My advise? Buy the paint first, then find out the ideal gun to spray that paint.
Whew!!!!!!
Dave
A227
mini U2
181 TT
About to start SANDING for hours and hours and hours and hours.............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Turbine Sprayer |
Dave
I would like to make you feel much better about spending so much money on
your paint gun.
I had no delusion that I could paint my airplane and get the kind of
"perfect" finish that I had seen on others planes. Being so new in this
sport/hobby, I hired a friends friend's paint shop to paint my plane. NOW
that is expensive. Feel good, you are doing the work your self.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Baker <galahav(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Turbine Sprayer |
Viscosity is the key when using HLVP.
Most adverts talk about lacquer not urethane.
low pressure spatters the paint on in globs.
thinning to a point of watery consistency may be the
only way to get it to work.
you aren't the first person to complain.
try calling Sherwin Williams in Wichita for advice.
Saw a beautiful paint job on an RV that was perfectly
orange pealed. thought he ought to leave it that way
just for something different. the french did talk
about a plastic film to go on the airbus wings that
would increase efficiency. you may be on to something.
--- Dave Anderson wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Europa Builders,
>
> This is a frustration relieving write-up that will
> hopefully shed some light on the technical
> situation, depend in on the knowledge base out
> there.
>
> When I painted the airplane for the first time, I
> read a glowing article about the 4 stage turbine
> HVLP sprayers in Sport Aviation. They said that
> would give the ultimate finish and be easy for the
> rannk amateur to use, so since I want the ultimate
> finish, I spent the huge amount of money one. The
> results of this decision have not been good. I am
> now looking into buying a huge air compressor and a
> water/oil separator and a normal HVLP gun that works
> off of that coompressor. The issue with the turbine
> has been the heating of the air prior to the gun and
> the resulting problems with the paint finish from
> that - orange peel for one. Every painter and paint
> rep has said the same thing - I should just use a
> regular HVLP gun running off an air compressor.
>
> When I purchased the turbine rig, from what I
> read, I thought I was buying the ultimate and when I
> happened to mention it to a painter, he would be in
> awe and amazement that I have access to this
> advanced painting gun. Instead from what I have
> seen, nobody but those who sell those guns
> recommends them. I even noticed that the article in
> Sport Aviation (recommending my specific model of
> turbine HVLP gun) was written by the person who
> sells those turbine sprayers! Have I been duped? Is
> there some secret to making that expensive monument
> to inexperience useful? Should I even bother trying
> to use it with my now new idea - acrylic urethane
> finish paint? Inquiring minds want to know.
>
> The paint gun people say that the painters are
> living in the past and the turbine is the only way
> to go. Usually advances in technology catch on and
> out sell the competition and that brings out the
> truth in the end. As far as I can tell, that is not
> the case here.
>
> I can't WAIT until the airplane is finally repainted
> and I can put this all behind! Hopefully the finish
> will last a long time. It is a good feeling, though,
> to be supporting the economy by spending three
> times as much as I needed to in order to paint the
> airplane!
> My advise? Buy the paint first, then find out the
> ideal gun to spray that paint.
>
>
> Whew!!!!!!
>
>
> Dave
> A227
> mini U2
> 181 TT
> About to start SANDING for hours and hours and hours
> and hours.............
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Proctor" <pjoe2(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Driving Truck across country |
Hi All,
I'm picking a Kit up in SC on the 26th of April. If anyone needs to ship
anything to the west coast please let me know before Friday night. Thanks.
Joe Proctor
A272 Europa Mono, Motor-Glider
Wheel Chock Completed, Seven Years to go
pjoe2(at)qwest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure |
Rick, Mine flickered until I cleaned the terminals.
Regs,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: <RMRRick(at)aol.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europa 912 : Lowish in-flight oil pressure
>
> Hi
>
> I wonder if anyone has had their oil presure suddenly go to zero and have
subsequently calculated the forces (both instant and sustained) on said
under garments?
>
> I also have a randomly fluctuating presure (in the range 44 to 60 ish
psi.) Is this syptomatic of a failing sender?
>
> Regards
>
> Rick
>
> G-RIKS 912s Tri
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceiling Panel Compasses |
I can thoroughly reccomend the SIRS compass but would suggest you mount it
on top of the instrument panel (my version came with a dual fitting option -
ie: suspended or otherwise). We tried ours in the suspended position but it
didnt feel right -BTW it is possible to attach it to the centre of the
plexiglass screen (as in most automobiles - cars to the Brits) as it comes
with a very sticky (AND PERMANENT) attachment pad.
IMHO the suspended option puts the compass well out of your line of sight
(you have to look up to read it) and there is the risk of knocking it when
you are getting in and out of the aircraft. Of course if you have a DI then
you may not need to refer to it that often.
Carl P
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
>
> Gidday,
> I am wondering about incorporating the anchorage points for an overhead
> compass at this stage of my build. The SIRS range appear very nice looking
> compasses but seem to hang down quite a way. Any advice or recommendations
> out there for a low profile option.
>
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
> Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
> Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
> Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
> Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
> Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
> Instrumentation: Undecided
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceiling Panel Compasses |
Tony, A Sirs compass stuck on to the top of the windscreen in midline works
very well and doesn't seem the least intrusive in service, as it is partly
recessed behind the windscreen frame. Regards, David
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
>
> Gidday,
> I am wondering about incorporating the anchorage points for an overhead
> compass at this stage of my build. The SIRS range appear very nice looking
> compasses but seem to hang down quite a way. Any advice or recommendations
> out there for a low profile option.
>
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
> Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
> Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
> Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
> Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
> Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
> Instrumentation: Undecided
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Have you tried the new drug sample request service on Doctors.net.uk?
> http://www.doctors.net.uk/samples
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com> |
| Subject: | Europa to Liberty |
Sorry, Hedley, that you couldn't make it to Cranfield on Tuesday evening.
There is no transcript available - you really needed to be there to get the
full flavour of an inspiring talk in which Ivan explained the principles he
followed that led down the road to the Europa and then to the Liberty.
If Ivan can be persuaded to give such a talk again, whether at Kemble or
elsewhere, I strongly recommend people to overcome all obstacles to be
there.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
I was all set to fly down to Cranfield for the lecture and stay over to
return home the next day, but when I got to my Fishburn base there was a
supra-Europan 90deg wind. So I wimpishly refrained. Seeing the weather
today, I'm quite glad I did. But I would have liked to hear what Ivan said;
I note that he named his American Europa after the Liberty engine of the
20's which alone weighed more than a complete Europa! Did anyone get to the
talk, and is there any chance of a transcript of it being made available on
this net? H
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Europa to Liberty
>
> Those of you capable of beating a path to Bedfordshire, England, may be
interested to know that Ivan Shaw will be giving a lecture to the Cranfield
Branch of the Royal Aeronautical Society at 7 PM on Tuesday 20th April 2004.
> The title of his talk will be "From Europa to Liberty" and he will
describe how he went from designing the Europa kit plane to develop the
Liberty XL-2 certified aircraft, which received its FAA type certificate on
19 Feb this year.
>
> Further details are available on the Cranfield College of Aeronautics web
site:
> http://www.ccoa.aero/events/raeslecture.asp
> Location maps may be found on the Cranfield University web site:
> http://www.cranfield.ac.uk/visit/
> No tickets are required and visitors are welcome. Enquiries to + 44 (0)
1234 754743.
>
> Mike Gregory
> Classic Monowheel kit 94
> Europa Club Safety Officer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N378PJ a real airplane now! |
Hi All,
As the Europa is a British design, it is a ''Real Aeroplane'' and not a ''Real
Airplane'' !
Cheers,
Nev. [A''Real Englishman'']
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
McAllister
Subject: Europa-List: N378PJ a real airplane now!
Hi all,
I just wanted to let you know that I got my official airworthiness certificate
from the FAA today. I am not quite ready to fly it yet, but its a nice milestone
to pass.
Cheers, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All,
The 914 as supplied does not normally come with the cylinder shroud, the 912S has
that as a standard fitment. It is available for the 914 as an option [ but
VERY EXPENSIVE !]
Tests indicate a drop of oil and water temps of about 10 C when the shroud is fitted.
If the shroud is left on, then the cowl MUST have the air inlet fitted, if the
shroud is removed, you needn't cut the inlet.
The air scoop cut into the lower duct is to let a bit of air flow past the Turbo
on the 914.
Hope this clears up any confusion ?
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Simon Smith
Subject: Europa-List: Cowlings
I was idly looking through the engine installation manuals on the club
website and was looking through the 912/S manual (I have a 914).
It talks about a cut-out and splash moulding in the front of the cowling to
direct air into the cylinder cowl. The 914 manual does not mention this but
my 914 is fitted with the cowl, should it be? Do I need the cut-out/splash
moulding or will the little bent tab in the cooling duct to the radiators
(which is missing on the 912/S) do the job?
Simon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)btclick.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceiling Panel Compasses |
Is it really wise to position the compass so close to all that metalwork
and frantic electrical activity?
The reason for placing it high has more to do with minimising the
magnetic disturbance than ease of viewing.
It might be a good idea to hold the compass over the instrument panel
and power up all the eclectics and to verify any deviation - before
mounting it permanently.
Just a thought
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
I can thoroughly reccomend the SIRS compass but would suggest you mount
it
on top of the instrument panel (my version came with a dual fitting
option -
ie: suspended or otherwise). We tried ours in the suspended position but
it
didnt feel right -BTW it is possible to attach it to the centre of the
plexiglass screen (as in most automobiles - cars to the Brits) as it
comes
with a very sticky (AND PERMANENT) attachment pad.
IMHO the suspended option puts the compass well out of your line of
sight
(you have to look up to read it) and there is the risk of knocking it
when
you are getting in and out of the aircraft. Of course if you have a DI
then
you may not need to refer to it that often.
Carl P
G-LABS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
>
> Gidday,
> I am wondering about incorporating the anchorage points for an
overhead
> compass at this stage of my build. The SIRS range appear very nice
looking
> compasses but seem to hang down quite a way. Any advice or
recommendations
> out there for a low profile option.
>
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney Australia
>
> Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
> Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
> Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
> Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
> Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
> Instrumentation: Undecided
>
>
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Dave,
I'm sorry you are having so much trouble with the paint 'gang'.
The ultimate coat is the aim of most of us, but I think I'm
going to have to either find a perfect painter and go with him, or be
satisfied with what I can produce myself.
The one thing your message reminded me was that some product
articles in Sport Av seem to be written by their sales people - but appear
as unbiased assessments .............. something blatantly impossible. In
this case, the tradition of long-respected periodicals seems prudent - a
short but honest history of the writer's career preceding the content. Then
one can feel open to attitude change. Nothing beats an honest bio.
Good luck in your quest, and keep us advised! Perhaps your
altitude has something to do with it?
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceiling Panel Compasses |
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
|
| Tony, A Sirs compass stuck on to the top of the windscreen in midline
works
| very well and doesn't seem the least intrusive in service, as it is partly
| recessed behind the windscreen frame. Regards, David
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
| To:
| Subject: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
|
| >
| > Gidday,
| > I am wondering about incorporating the anchorage points for an overhead
| > compass at this stage of my build. The SIRS range appear very nice
looking
| > compasses but seem to hang down quite a way. Any advice or
recommendations
| > out there for a low profile option.
| > Tony Renshaw
| > Sydney Australia
I don't know how much of this tired olde pilote stuff you can stand, but
IMHExperience several times in the trusty old DC3, I have craned to look at
a piece of the sky lurking behind the top centre-mount liquid compass to
find a neat but solid aircraft bearing down - and swore never to put one
there. The intervening years have softened those rabid declarations though
and if it can be EASILY seen around I think that's where the standby compass
will go. I never had to use it in anger.
Ferg
A064
Confucius says, "No one will ever know you were killed by the standby
compass"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
Thanks Jim. When you said continuous ground wire through the wings, I assume
that you mean the only splice or connection should be at wing to fuselage with
the rest of the connections.
Another question is where did you place your com antenna? I had thought about
in the wings but am concerned about the strobe wire being so close.
Thanks for your help!
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com wrote:
> Because Fred I tend to question everything a sales rep says to
> me... Perhaps it is because I am a sales Rep for a parts company.
> :) And yes I know that they are not part 23. Thought that was a
> given. Do you have any personal experiences with these units
> that you would like to share?
Only experience is with Whelen's. A pair of wingtip units has been working
for me 23 years now w/o any need for service. Aeroflash quartz beacons can
be troublesome, but their strobes as orig equipment on pre-1977 aircraft
seem pretty rugged, per at least an email list of owners of one of those
types.
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3eu(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Turbine Sprayer |
Dave Anderson wrote:
> ...
> Every painter and paint rep has said the same thing - I should just
> use a regular HVLP gun running off an air compressor.
Having used several of them HVLP conversion guns -- and it's not contrary
to any mfr claims, there's nothing in HVLP technology that gives you a
better finish, beyond less mist to settle on surfaces no longer wet enough
to deal with it. They're great for body shops for profit and environmental
reasons, and any poorer atomization makes little difference where they cut and
buff it out anyway. Also, with HVLP, one has to invest extra $$ in cfm
capacity of the compressor, overkill for otherwise topping off one's tires!
I've found a "pressure pot" an excellent investment for shooting airplanes and
safe to buy from Harbor Fright(!) Tools. Much better control over atomization
-- set and forget -- and preferable for big things like planes, due to much
less weight in the gun and 80% of the surface shot at less than ideal angles
and/or body positioning.
Also, of the dozen+ guns I have, old reliable still turns out to be a
inexpensive one from Sears about 25 years ago. Only reason I can think of is
maybe back then Sears sold house-branded stuff made by serious, domestic
mfrs. Through google or eBay you can find good prices on Binks or DeVilbiss.
Just watch our for correct needle diameter for the stuff being shot.
Good luck!
Regards,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 1. Wing tip strobe power packs. 2. Oil pressure sender reliabilty |
<<<< Are there good reasons for not putting the flash generator units in
the wings, on an inspection cover? The size is 9 x 14 cm base, 6.5 high.
weight 250 gr. How is the reliability of these (aeroflash) units? Maybe
the inspection cover could be made when, if ever, needed, and just fix
the units inside? It would save some cable, keep the high voltage far
from other equipment, be on a neutral c&g point and save space for other
gadgets in the fuselage. Comments please! Jos Okhuijsen, #600, close to
closing (wings) >>>>
I mounted my Whelen strobe power packs (HTS, CF) on small inspection
hatches just inside the wing tips on the lower surface. Works fine, no
interference. I have had mine in service for 2 1/2 years, no reliabilty
problem so far.
On the subject of oil pressure sender reliability, I secured the sender
body with a large 'P' clip to minimise vibration.
Cheers, John
N262WF, XS mono, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | HVLP Turbine Sprayer |
Dave,
I think your first problem was rushing into the job without practicing on some
other material.
I used an Apollo sprayer with reasonable success, but then I did have some prior
experience with spraying of furniture lacquers. I believe that an experienced
painter can do an excellent finish with almost any equipment and paint, but
amateurs like you and me do it by trial and error.
If you had orange peel then you didn't thin the paint correctly, and the same can
happen with any system. Fine atomization of the paint is absolutely essential,
a very fine mist is what you should aim at, with a needle size of about 1mm.
The warm air from the turbine is not a problem, but it causes the paint to
dry more rapidly. If that is not desirable then you simply use a different thinner
(retardent) which increases drying time. The supplier of your paint would
be able to advise you.
Karl
Half price modem, FREE connection and one month FREE - click here to sign up to
BT Broadband.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hedley brown" <hedley(at)hedleybrown.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 1. Wing tip strobe power packs. 2. Oil pressure sender |
reliabilty
My only problem with my wing tip mounting is that it adds 1 1/2" to the
wingspan, which can make getting out of a cramped hargar even more tedious.
H
----- Original Message -----
From: "John & Paddy Wigney" <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Europa-List: 1. Wing tip strobe power packs. 2. Oil pressure sender
reliabilty
>
> <<<< Are there good reasons for not putting the flash generator units in
> the wings, on an inspection cover? The size is 9 x 14 cm base, 6.5 high.
> weight 250 gr. How is the reliability of these (aeroflash) units? Maybe
> the inspection cover could be made when, if ever, needed, and just fix
> the units inside? It would save some cable, keep the high voltage far
> from other equipment, be on a neutral c&g point and save space for other
> gadgets in the fuselage. Comments please! Jos Okhuijsen, #600, close to
> closing (wings) >>>>
>
> I mounted my Whelen strobe power packs (HTS, CF) on small inspection
> hatches just inside the wing tips on the lower surface. Works fine, no
> interference. I have had mine in service for 2 1/2 years, no reliabilty
> problem so far.
>
> On the subject of oil pressure sender reliability, I secured the sender
> body with a large 'P' clip to minimise vibration.
>
> Cheers, John
>
> N262WF, XS mono, 912S
> Mooresville, North Carolina
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Miles" <Simon.Miles(at)skynet.be> |
| Subject: | Adhesive supplies from the factory |
Is anyone else having trouble getting fresh supplies of Ampreg and Redux
from Europa? I have been waiting 3 MONTHS and after telephoning
Kirkbymoorside again this afternoon they still can't tell me when they will
be able to supply it! Since these adhesives are fairly fundamental to the
construction of a Europa I find it very difficult to understand how this
situation has arisen.
Does anyone know of alternative suppliers?
I'm very disappointed with Europa today, to put it mildly :-(
Simon Miles,
Builder #508.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Neville,
What drop is there in cylinder wall temps.with the cooling shroud fitted?
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neville Eyre" <neville@europa-aircraft.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cowlings
<neville@europa-aircraft.com>
>
> Hi All,
> The 914 as supplied does not normally come with the cylinder shroud, the
912S has that as a standard fitment. It is available for the 914 as an
option [ but VERY EXPENSIVE !]
> Tests indicate a drop of oil and water temps of about 10 C when the shroud
is fitted.
> If the shroud is left on, then the cowl MUST have the air inlet fitted, if
the shroud is removed, you needn't cut the inlet.
> The air scoop cut into the lower duct is to let a bit of air flow past the
Turbo on the 914.
> Hope this clears up any confusion ?
> Cheers,
> Nev.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Simon Smith
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Cowlings
>
>
> I was idly looking through the engine installation manuals on the club
> website and was looking through the 912/S manual (I have a 914).
>
> It talks about a cut-out and splash moulding in the front of the cowling
to
> direct air into the cylinder cowl. The 914 manual does not mention this
but
> my 914 is fitted with the cowl, should it be? Do I need the
cut-out/splash
> moulding or will the little bent tab in the cooling duct to the radiators
> (which is missing on the 912/S) do the job?
>
> Simon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Adhesive supplies from the factory |
>>Does anyone know of alternative suppliers?<<
Skycraft.
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Miles" <Simon.Miles(at)skynet.be>
Subject: Europa-List: Adhesive supplies from the factory
>
> Is anyone else having trouble getting fresh supplies of Ampreg and Redux
> from Europa? I have been waiting 3 MONTHS and after telephoning
> Kirkbymoorside again this afternoon they still can't tell me when they
will
> be able to supply it! Since these adhesives are fairly fundamental to the
> construction of a Europa I find it very difficult to understand how this
> situation has arisen.
>
> Does anyone know of alternative suppliers?
>
> I'm very disappointed with Europa today, to put it mildly :-(
>
>
> Simon Miles,
> Builder #508.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris davis" <scrounge69(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Driving Truck across country |
Hey Joe are you the lucky guy who stole that motor glider kit on E bay? if
so, nice move ,not every day you buy a europa kit for half price. Good luck
Chris Davis A160 MG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Proctor" <pjoe2(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Driving Truck across country
>
> Hi All,
> I'm picking a Kit up in SC on the 26th of April. If anyone needs to ship
> anything to the west coast please let me know before Friday night. Thanks.
>
> Joe Proctor
> A272 Europa Mono, Motor-Glider
> Wheel Chock Completed, Seven Years to go
> pjoe2(at)qwest.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
I can claim no credit for this idea, it is a copy of the gust-lock
mentioned by Peter Zutrauen from Ontario. The original was made in
aluminium but I have made a similar item from 22mm. domestic plastic
overflow piping, two T pieces and a length of shock cord.
What I constructed is a T about 12 in. across and 18 in. long. I cut
part of the pipe away at each end of the head of the T so that it sits
over the rudder pedals. I fitted a second T piece at the foot of the leg
at right angles to the head then cut half of the vertical section of
this T piece away to leave a U section which fits against the stick. I
drilled a couple of holes in the underside of my panel and threaded a
piece of =BC in. shock cord through so that it lies out of the way on the
underside of the panel when not in use.
To use the lock simply drop it over the two pedals, place the stick into
the U section and pull the shock cord over the stick, taking as turn
around the top to stop it moving from side to side.
It does allow a little movement in the control surfaces but stops them
from banging About in the wind.
Cost me pennies, weigh just an ounce or two and took less than an hour
to make and fit.
Peter sent me a sketch of the original which I would be pleased to
forward on to anyone interested.
Richard Iddon. G-RIXS Hoping to make it to Caernarvon tomorrow weather
permitting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: filling around hinges |
>I had a problem getting the filler out of the hinge wire holes. An hobby
>knife cleaned up the 1/2" spaces but the holes were really a problem.
>
>I found that plastic trimmer line for the lawn trimmer just slipped in the
>holes before I filled. Then when cleaning up, the knife cut the line off and
>I could poke out the little pieces very easily.
>
>You may have gathered that I did fill all the way to the top of the
>knuckles.
and,
>I slit (tricky) a length of nylon tube & slid that over the hinge, that
>prevented filler contamination & sanding damage.
>(Now I'm wondering whether it's a good idea to paint the hinge?)
Cliff, Roger - sorry for delay in responding. Both your suggestions
rely upon the hinge not being assembled. I have been following the
instructions in the manual, and thus my rudder hinges are assembled
with the hinge wire safetied. (Incidentally, once the hinges are
rivetted on, I can't see how the hinge wires can be removed or
inserted without cutting away quite a bit of the edge of the adjacent
hinge flange layup.) I have not had a problem with the filler getting
into the hinge-wire hole - when properly made up, it's much too dry
to get anywhere by capillary action like plain epoxy does. The
presence of the other hinge leaf prevents Roger's idea being used,
but it's something like that I feel is needed.
I have put masking tape over the hinge knuckle, with parcel tape on
top for better epoxy resistance. That stops filler adhering to the
hinge, but doesn't help with achieving a nice-looking edge to the
filler. I suppose I could tape on a tiny triangular-section fillet -
well, the hypotenuse would have to be a quadrant of a circle, not a
straight line - but that seems a bit fiddly and I'm not sure it would
stay on during all the work.
Still looking for better ideas!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 670 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceiling Panel Compasses |
Have been flying with said configuration for a year and no problems. We also
have a WW2 remote compass (sender mounted up the back) and they both agree
(as far as we can determine). We are certainly not aware of any interference
with the coaming mounted compass.
Reason we fitted the SIRS compass was as a backup because the fluid leaked
out of the original WW2 compass sender and the original compass jammed. When
we took it apart we found the gasket on the compass housing had been bodged
(a reconditioned unit). We have manufactured a proper gasket and a year on
both compasses are working fine (and seem to agree).
And if two compasses werent enough, we tend to use the compass rose on the
Garmin GPS3 as the primary reference, with the magnetic compasses as
backup - are we taking redundancy too far?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)btclick.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
>
> Is it really wise to position the compass so close to all that metalwork
> and frantic electrical activity?
> The reason for placing it high has more to do with minimising the
> magnetic disturbance than ease of viewing.
> It might be a good idea to hold the compass over the instrument panel
> and power up all the eclectics and to verify any deviation - before
> mounting it permanently.
>
> Just a thought
>
> Nigel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carl & Dot" <carl_p(at)ntlworld.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
>
>
> I can thoroughly reccomend the SIRS compass but would suggest you mount
> it
> on top of the instrument panel (my version came with a dual fitting
> option -
> ie: suspended or otherwise). We tried ours in the suspended position but
> it
> didnt feel right -BTW it is possible to attach it to the centre of the
> plexiglass screen (as in most automobiles - cars to the Brits) as it
> comes
> with a very sticky (AND PERMANENT) attachment pad.
>
> IMHO the suspended option puts the compass well out of your line of
> sight
> (you have to look up to read it) and there is the risk of knocking it
> when
> you are getting in and out of the aircraft. Of course if you have a DI
> then
> you may not need to refer to it that often.
>
> Carl P
> G-LABS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Ceiling Panel Compasses
>
>
>
> >
> > Gidday,
> > I am wondering about incorporating the anchorage points for an
> overhead
> > compass at this stage of my build. The SIRS range appear very nice
> looking
> > compasses but seem to hang down quite a way. Any advice or
> recommendations
> > out there for a low profile option.
> >
> > Reg
> > Tony Renshaw
> > Sydney Australia
> >
> > Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
> > Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
> > Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
> > Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
> > Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
> > Instrumentation: Undecided
> >
> >
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | External Power Connection |
Hi All,
I want to put in an external power connection (piper style) that I found at
S n F. Reason being, If I ever get caught out somewhere and temporarily run
down the battery for a poor starting technique or some other reason, it will
be a little tricky to get the cowling back on after start. ;) For those of
you that have installed a ground power plug, where is the ideal place to
locate it? I was thinking about stealing one fine gentleman's idea that
lives in Tampa, but hate to run that much copper from the RH footwell to
behind the pilots seat. It may be the only safe place though. Any thoughts
and suggestions.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Connection |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Europa-List: External Power Connection
|
| Hi All,
| I want to put in an external power connection (piper style) that I found
at
| S n F. Reason being, If I ever get caught out somewhere and temporarily
run
| down the battery for a poor starting technique or some other reason, it
will
| be a little tricky to get the cowling back on after start. ;) For those
of
| you that have installed a ground power plug, where is the ideal place to
| locate it? I was thinking about stealing one fine gentleman's idea that
| lives in Tampa, but hate to run that much copper from the RH footwell to
| behind the pilots seat. It may be the only safe place though. Any thoughts
| and suggestions.
| Troy Maynor
| N120EU Monowheel Classic
| Left to finish:
| Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
Troy,
Over 'ere we call that a GPU socket (ground Power unit).
I fussed over where to set my Piper style (stolen from the files
of Bob Nuckolls - using toilet seat hinge bolts etc) but wanted to be sure
the 'ground grunt' didn't step into the the prop after startup to yorque the
cable and plug out. The main consideration is having either the socket area
in sight or reachable for reasons of safety. It should be close to the
battery and other heavy cable units for weight reasons and I was going to
put it behind the wingflap root.
However, [1] I decided to have a forward battery at firewall
site (with mebbe a second back behind if needed) and [2] to make it
available to me, so decided to put it just under the instrument panel port
end. So it sits close to the NACA cabin air inlet (just below actually) and
I can reach it with the door half-cocked, while the ground power unit -
battery cart - whatever - sits behind the port wingroot, cable over the
wingwalk.
That way, I see where the GPU erk is, can cut the engine if
someone approaches the live prop, and release the plug and cable rearward so
he can haul in and secure.
Hope that's of use,
Ferg A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaForum <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Connection |
Thinking of doing a connection also. My battery is in back, so some
were very close to the battery should be good for me.
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=99#99
Has a PDF from AeroElectric on the wiring......
SteveD. A217
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: External Power Connection |
| From: | James Nelson <europajim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Troy,
Safety first then what ever, Having it behind my seat gives me
control without having anyone forward of the wings exposed to the
propeller. Plus, when its disconnected, I close the door and motor away.
Jim Nelson
writes:
>
>
> Hi All,
> I want to put in an external power connection (piper style) that I
> found at
> S n F. Reason being, If I ever get caught out somewhere and
> temporarily run
> down the battery for a poor starting technique or some other reason,
> it will
> be a little tricky to get the cowling back on after start. ;) For
> those of
> you that have installed a ground power plug, where is the ideal
> place to
> locate it? I was thinking about stealing one fine gentleman's idea
> that
> lives in Tampa, but hate to run that much copper from the RH
> footwell to
> behind the pilots seat. It may be the only safe place though. Any
> thoughts
> and suggestions.
> Troy Maynor
> N120EU Monowheel Classic
> Left to finish:
> Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
| Subject: | External Power Connection |
I have installed the Piper style connection in the back (where my battery
is), behind a flush access panel. Photos and description will be sent by
e-mail to those contacting me off-forum at sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no
Svein K. Johnsen
A225 Trigear - now in Norway
Top bonded on two days ago - now only the rest to finish!
-----Opprinnelig melding-----
Fra: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]P vegne av Troy Maynor
Sendt: 23. april 2004 03:00
Til: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Emne: Europa-List: External Power Connection
Hi All,
I want to put in an external power connection (piper style) that I found at
S n F. Reason being, If I ever get caught out somewhere and temporarily run
down the battery for a poor starting technique or some other reason, it will
be a little tricky to get the cowling back on after start. ;) For those of
you that have installed a ground power plug, where is the ideal place to
locate it? I was thinking about stealing one fine gentleman's idea that
lives in Tampa, but hate to run that much copper from the RH footwell to
behind the pilots seat. It may be the only safe place though. Any thoughts
and suggestions.
Troy Maynor
N120EU Monowheel Classic
Left to finish:
Paint,interior,engine install, wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
It looks as though the blue sky will give way to the 1500 cloud base not too far
W of Caernarfon this afternoon, but I shall go for it. David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Proctor" <pjoe2(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Driving Truck across country |
DD HIN
Joe Proctor
A272 Europa Mono, Motor-Glider
Wheel Chock Completed, Seven Years to go
pjoe2(at)qwest.net
-----Original Message-----
From: 'europa-list(at)matronics.com' [SMTP:europa-list(at)matronics.com]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Driving Truck across country
<< File: FCBNMFIIHMH.jpg >> Your email message was temporarily blocked by my spam
filter. If you feel this is an error, please follow
these instructions.
The attached image contains a password.
Reply to this email and enter the password
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Hi All,
I'm picking a Kit up in SC on the 26th of April. If anyone needs to ship
anything to the west coast please let me know before Friday night. Thanks.
Joe Proctor
A272 Europa Mono, Motor-Glider
Wheel Chock Completed, Seven Years to go
pjoe2(at)qwest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: FINGER BRAKE SEALS |
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: ivor.phillips
Subject: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
Hi guys
This might be of interest to a few of you, building tri-gears with the factory
finger-brake mod 65.
For lots of reasons I wasn't happy to use the Silicone brake fluid DOT5 in my plane,
being assured that the master cylinder seals were combatable with automatic
transmission fluid, I left the seals soaking for a week to see if there were
any adverse affects, Three of the four seals where fine, but surprisingly
one cup seal had swelled to nearly twice its original size, so they were chucked,
The seals used in the master cylinder are 3/4 inch ring and cup seals, to be combatable
with mil-h-5606 they need to be made of Buna-n-(nitrile) Or if you are
using glycol base DOT 3/4/5.1 then they need to be Ethylene-proplene,
My seals were obviously a mix of the two! so I sourced Girling SP2044 ring seals
and Girling SP3694 cup seals and rebuilt the master cylinder,
The Matco brake caliper seals are Buna-n-(nitrile) so these were changed to 222 EPDM (Ethylene-Proplene) Fairway seals http://www.fairwayseals.com/
Bleeding was as simple as filling the reservoir with a small funnel, cracking open
a bleed nipple and watching the air being expelled! ( No pumping nessary)
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need some cockpit module help |
Hi Jeff,
The next time you speak with John about the M/C for the finger brakes,
inquire about a new mod that lets you cut away some of the center console and insert
a pre-molded composite part that the M/C will install directly to. It might
save you some time.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
CM & rudder pedals with cables installed. Tailwheel complete. Wing pins and
tie bar installed. Working on baggage bay. Conventional gear assembled and soon
to be fitted.
Back from Sun-N-Fun and have lots of work to do!
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
We could not monitor the cylinder walls, but as most of the heat in the oil is
generated by it splashing onto the walls, I would guess it was considerable ?
Not sure whether it is needed in Northern Europe,[most of the year we can't keep
them warm enough] might help in a 914 installation in warmer climates, if only
it was not so expensive ! [ thinks.. perhaps I should make a less expensive
version at home, to sell ?.....]
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ami
McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cowlings
Neville,
What drop is there in cylinder wall temps.with the cooling shroud fitted?
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neville Eyre" <neville@europa-aircraft.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cowlings
<neville@europa-aircraft.com>
>
> Hi All,
> The 914 as supplied does not normally come with the cylinder shroud, the
912S has that as a standard fitment. It is available for the 914 as an
option [ but VERY EXPENSIVE !]
> Tests indicate a drop of oil and water temps of about 10 C when the shroud
is fitted.
> If the shroud is left on, then the cowl MUST have the air inlet fitted, if
the shroud is removed, you needn't cut the inlet.
> The air scoop cut into the lower duct is to let a bit of air flow past the
Turbo on the 914.
> Hope this clears up any confusion ?
> Cheers,
> Nev.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Simon Smith
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Cowlings
>
>
> I was idly looking through the engine installation manuals on the club
> website and was looking through the 912/S manual (I have a 914).
>
> It talks about a cut-out and splash moulding in the front of the cowling
to
> direct air into the cylinder cowl. The 914 manual does not mention this
but
> my 914 is fitted with the cowl, should it be? Do I need the
cut-out/splash
> moulding or will the little bent tab in the cooling duct to the radiators
> (which is missing on the 912/S) do the job?
>
> Simon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eamonn Sheridan <esheridan1(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid working in reverse |
Thank you David and Tony.
I reversed the wires on the motor and feedback, and it works fine now.
Regards
Eamonn.
Eamonn, My manual ( Navaid installed 3 yrs ago) on P8 says 'If the aileron
deflection is backwards you must reverse the direction of servo rotation.
Swap the motor wires at the motor. Swap end connections at the Feedback
pot--these wires are white with red tracer and white with black tracer'. The
other option if installation geometry allows is to install the servo crank
arm 180deg round.
Regards David
----- Original Message -----
From: Eamonn Sheridan <esheridan1(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Navaid working in reverse
>
> I have installed the Navaid AP1 and Servo unit as per the Europa Mod, but
the servo unit operates in reverse! When either the Trim or Turn pot is
moved to the left, the stick moves to the right. If the aircraft is tilted
to the left, the stick moves to the left. A bit worrying! There doesn't
appear to be any means of switching the mode in the servo unit or AP1. I
was going to try reversing the wires on the feedback potentiometer. Has
anyone found this problem with their installation? how did you overcome it?
>
> Eamonn
>
> G-ROOV
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
Brian;
Yes, the ground wire need's to be connected with a splice at the wing to fuselage
connection.
We used the Bob Archer antenna's. The com antenna is bonded on the left side of
the fuselage behind the baggage compartment, the nav antenna is bonded overhead
in the baggage compartment, as per Bob Archers instructions. His transponder is
bonded to the side of the fuselage behind the baggage compartment. The GPS
antenna is also setting on a ledge bonded to the side of the aircraft behind the
baggage compartment.
Jim
N398JB
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim. When you said continuous ground wire through the wings, I assume
> that you mean the only splice or connection should be at wing to fuselage with
> the rest of the connections.
> Another question is where did you place your com antenna? I had thought about
> in the wings but am concerned about the strobe wire being so close.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Brian S
> A276 Tri Gear. Texas
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
> llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: FINGER BRAKE SEALS |
Ivor,
Thanks for the detailed info. I am about to recommission my fingerbrake system.
The original seals were sticking and I changed them . Now I notice that one of
the new ones is sticking again. I don't want to change the brake caliper seals.Exactly
what should I use, assuming I use your same supplier. Also, how do
you change the seal which is part of the piston; does that come apart somehow
or do i replace the whole unit and what is the part number ? Can I use automatic
transmission fluid with the existing caliper brakes ? I was using Dot5 and
intended using that again. Any advice much appreciated.
Karl
From: "ivor.phillips" ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
Subject: Europa-List: Fw: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 08:05:53 +0100
-- Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips" ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: ivor.phillips
Subject: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
Hi guys
This might be of interest to a few of you, building tri-gears with the factory
finger-brake mod 65.
For lots of reasons I wasn't happy to use the Silicone brake fluid DOT5 in my plane,being
assured that the master cylinder seals were combatable with automatic
transmission fluid, I left the seals soaking for a week to see if there were
any adverse affects, Three of the four seals where fine, but surprisinglyone
cup seal had swelled to nearly twice its original size, so they were chucked,
The seals used in the master cylinder are 3/4 inch ring and cup seals, to be combatable
with mil-h-5606 they need to be made of Buna-n-(nitrile) Or if you are
using glycol base DOT 3/4/5.1 then they need to be Ethylene-proplene,
My seals were obviously a mix of the two! so I sourced Girling SP2044 ring seals
and Girling SP3694 cup seals and rebuilt the master cylinder,
The Matco brake caliper seals are Buna-n-(nitrile) so these were changed to 222 EPDM (Ethylene-Proplene) Fairway seals http://www.fairwayseals.com/
Bleeding was as simple as filling the reservoir with a small funnel, cracking open
a bleed nipple and watching the air being expelled! ( No pumping nessary)
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
Stay in touch better and keep protected online with MSNs NEW all-in-one Premium
Services. Find out more here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adhesive supplies from the factory |
>Ampreg and Redux
>Does anyone know of alternative suppliers
I've been very happy with the service from the SP Systems
distributors, Marineware of Southampton. They will sell the resin and
hardener separately if need be (don't ask why I know this!). As well
as Ampreg 20 (and other epoxies), they supply other useful stuff like
mixing cups (stouter & cheaper than the Europa ones) and red-tracer
peel-ply in tapes and wide rolls.
Marineware Ltd
6 Crosshouse Centre
Crosshouse Road
Southampton
Hampshire
SO14 5GZ
phone 023 8033 0208
fax 023 8033 9667
e-mail
Sorry, I don't know of anywhere else to get Redux; I think Dave Watts
mentioned a place a long time ago, but I can't lay my hands on the
reference now. Neither SkyCraft nor Light Aero appear to stock Redux,
according to the catalogues I have.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 670 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Danny Shepherd" <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk> |
Hi All,
just like to say thanks for the warm welcome I received at the
EGCK flyin today, nice to put faces to names. special thanks to David Joyce
for reminding me of what my "little spitfire" will be like on day G-C.E.R.I
:-)
cheers Danny.shepherd
P.S apologies for arriving in a spam can. :-)))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan allsop" <info(at)blackballclub.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Todays' Cearnarvon Fly-in |
Really enjoyed the breakfast bap and coffee, but we seemed to depart spontaneously
and I forgot to pay.
Did anyone else do the same, because I intend to ring them and pay up.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Adhesive supplies from the factory |
Simon,
The Benelux importer of Ampreg 20 is http://www.sp-bac.nl
Telephone: +31-20-6652452
Don't forget to ask for a discount - 30% or so, depending on quantity.
And a 12 kg package is cheaper than an equivalent amount in 3.75 kg
packages.
Resin and hardener (normal/slow) can be bought separately.
Delivery is within 2 days.
I haven't found an address for Redux yet, but Europa may find it
easier to supply than Ampreg.
Jan de Jong
#461, tail end of tailplanes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | FINGER BRAKE SEALS |
Hi guys
This might be of interest to a few of you, building tri-gears with the factory
finger-brake mod 65.
For lots of reasons I wasn't happy to use the Silicone brake fluid DOT5 in my plane,
being assured that the master cylinder seals were combatable with automatic
transmission fluid, I left the seals soaking for a week to see if there were
any adverse affects, Three of the four seals where fine, but surprisingly
one cup seal had swelled to nearly twice its original size, so they were chucked,
The seals used in the master cylinder are 3/4 inch ring and cup seals, to be combatable
with mil-h-5606 they need to be made of Buna-n-(nitrile) Or if you are
using glycol base DOT 3/4/5.1 then they need to be Ethylene-proplene,
My seals were obviously a mix of the two! so I sourced Girling SP2044 ring seals
and Girling SP3694 cup seals and rebuilt the master cylinder,
The Matco brake caliper seals are Buna-n-(nitrile) so these were changed to 222 EPDM (Ethylene-Proplene) Fairway seals http://www.fairwayseals.com/
Bleeding was as simple as filling the reservoir with a small funnel, cracking open
a bleed nipple and watching the air being expelled! ( No pumping nessary)
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Lock |
Hi Richard,
Nice to see you yesterday. I would like to see it at the next Drop of the
Hat fly-in we both attend.
Regards,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Control Lock
>
> I can claim no credit for this idea, it is a copy of the gust-lock
> mentioned by Peter Zutrauen from Ontario. The original was made in
> aluminium but I have made a similar item from 22mm. domestic plastic
> overflow piping, two T pieces and a length of shock cord.
>
> What I constructed is a T about 12 in. across and 18 in. long. I cut
> part of the pipe away at each end of the head of the T so that it sits
> over the rudder pedals. I fitted a second T piece at the foot of the leg
> at right angles to the head then cut half of the vertical section of
> this T piece away to leave a U section which fits against the stick. I
> drilled a couple of holes in the underside of my panel and threaded a
> piece of =BC in. shock cord through so that it lies out of the way on the
> underside of the panel when not in use.
>
> To use the lock simply drop it over the two pedals, place the stick into
> the U section and pull the shock cord over the stick, taking as turn
> around the top to stop it moving from side to side.
>
> It does allow a little movement in the control surfaces but stops them
> from banging About in the wind.
>
> Cost me pennies, weigh just an ounce or two and took less than an hour
> to make and fit.
>
> Peter sent me a sketch of the original which I would be pleased to
> forward on to anyone interested.
>
> Richard Iddon. G-RIXS Hoping to make it to Caernarvon tomorrow weather
> permitting.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Fly-In at Lydeway, Wiltshire, UK |
This is just a quick note for UK Europa pilots that there will be another BBQ fly-in
at Lydeway on Saturday 17th July. As before numbers will be limited and
pilots will be asked to fly a few short flights to get local residents airborne.
At this stage this is just for your diaries. Nearer the time I will be taking
bookings. I intend keeping the Sunday free as a reserve day should the weather
be unsuitable.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Puglise" <jimpuglise(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Crafters Open House |
Bob-
Just wanted to say "Thanks" for doing the open house. Lynne and I had a
great time.
Jim Puglise
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Flight Crafters Open House
>
> Dear Fellow Builders and Enthusiasts,
>
>
> It's that time of the year with the Sun n Fun Air Show nearly here.
Flight
> Crafters is again planning their Annual
>
> Open House for Thursday April 15th between 5 and 8pm. Food and beverages
> will be served.
>
>
> Last year was a huge success with many builders and wanna be builders.
> Several "in progress" projects will
>
> be available for viewing with staff available to answer builder questions.
>
>
> We encourage an RSVP via -e-mail off-line to give us an idea of how many
to
> have enough food available.
>
>
> Hope to see all of you again and look forward to seeing new faces.
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Bob Berube
>
> Flight Crafters N166BB Conventional (flying)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Shafer" <bshafer(at)starnetwx.net> |
| Subject: | BRS Parachute for Europa |
Has anyone looked at adding a BRS parachute to a Europa?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BRS Parachute for Europa |
| From: | "Peter Zutrauen" <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> |
Yip,
Miles has installed one, his email: milesm(at)avnet.co.uk
Cheers,
Pete
A239
Here is a posting from these archives:
Re: Europa_Mail: Ballistic chute?
--------
Subject: Re: Europa_Mail: Ballistic chute?
From: Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 09:34:38 +0100
--------
Design work on the BRS installation is 98% complete - the one unknown is
the
exit hatch attachment, and we have a pretty good idea of what we are
doing
there, but the final decision will be a test by BRS on a dummy fuselage
top and
hatch - work on which will hopefully be completed in the next couple of
months.
Stress analysis on the installation (maintaining airframe integrity when
not in
use, and keeping the parachute attached to the airframe when deployed)
is
largely complete, with the report still to be written (here in the UK we
have to
get approval from PFA engineering for mods)
The installation has been designed around the "Classic" fuselage aft
bulkhead -
ie with the small baggage space - although the fuselage is an XS type.
the
reasoning behind this is that with close to 40lbs at the back of the
cabin, the
baggage allowance will also be 40lbs - although exactly how much can be
placed
there will be down to CG calculations.
The aft attach points will not transfer to the XS type baggage bay - it
requires
a much higher aft bulkhead, at least to a line about 3-4" above the
fuselage
split line, and the BRS is situated 50% into the (short) aft bulkhead -
and
would in any case sit in the center of the XS type baggae bay.
It's not impossible to design an XS type installation - but stressing it
(absolutely essential with a possible 6G deployment load -around 4
tonnes on any
one point) costs.... we have already put better than $5000 into stress
analysis,
and don't feel the desire to put any more in - however, if enough
builders are
prepared to club together, I will be pleased to do the design and
drawings if
the "BRS club" pay for the extra stressing work.
As for "classic" type installations - once the mod application has been
completed and the design approved by the PFA, drawings and construction
information will be available for the cost of the media - probably on
paper and
CD. Aft attach fittings and some mouldings - critical components and the
BRS
cabin cover will be available - all the rest of the special parts/mods
are
designed to be done using temporary formers or built in place. BRS will,
when
the design is 100% complete, have details of the straps, etc.
It will be possible to retrofit the conversion to a flying aeroplane -
but it
will not be a pleasant job - the fuselage will have to be inverted for
some
time, and doing the layups in a complete fuselage will be something of a
nightmare (but do-able). Much better to do it whilst the fuselage top is
off.......
Basic details are:
BRS attached to aft bulkhead.
primary connection to the airframe is via steel cable running down the
roof,
center of split windshield (1.25" wide bar that doubles as rollover
brace) to a
pair of short kevlar loops over the top engine mount stubs.
Aft connections are a pair of kevlar straps buried in channels about 6"
aft of
the doors
Aft attachments are ali fittings bolted to the reinforced bulkhead -
stiffened
by composite corner boxes over the fittings (forward) and reaction webs
(aft of
bulhead)
the 3 connection straps/steel cable come together in a box center top,
starting
aft of the rear door line. 50% of the kevlar straps are stored in this
box.
BRS exit is reinforced with a substantial foam/ glass stiffener inside
the rim.
exit hatch (and storage lid) is cut out from the original skin,
modified, and
reattached using dry micro with a PTFE stress riser built in.
If anyone wants a .PDF drawing of the installation, email me off-group
and I'll
send them out next week.
Over to you chaps.....
Miles
The Europa List is supported by Aviators Network UK - info(at)avnet.co.uk
--------
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Shafer [mailto:bshafer(at)starnetwx.net]
Subject: Europa-List: BRS Parachute for Europa
Has anyone looked at adding a BRS parachute to a Europa?
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Sternpost fitting |
Having initially set up my sternpost to align with the fuselage bottom, I find
that the fin needs about 1.5 ins of its trailing edge removed and that the sternpost
would butt against 1.5ins of foam reinforced port fin surface whilst the
stb side is clear of the foam.. On trial fitting the ribs I found that they
could be forced in to the fin only about 5, 15 and 23ins from the joint line,
i.e. 2ins less that indicated in the manual. My problem is this - is the position
of the sternpost fore and aft critical? If I accept this position, will I
find that the rudder is misplaced or the line of the fin/rudder uneven?
I am still doing all I can before topping out.
Those that have passed this stage, please let me know how you faired.
Thanks
Mike
XS440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | first flight G-CCEF |
Congratulations to Chris Garner whose Classic Europa G-CCEF had its
first flight today in the safe hands of Dave Hunter at Kemble.
Tim Houlihan & I met Chris and his dad looking very pleased with
themselves, shortly after our return from a very nice day at Le
Touquet.
I've updated the "flying aircraft" and related files on the Europa
Club website, and apologise to anyone who hasn't always been able to
find the latest versions of these pages. Webmaster Jeremy Davey's
software was accidentally "updating" some of those pages with older
versions, instead of leaving in place the latest ones I'd uploaded.
We've sorted that now.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (670 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. R. Jones" <jronjones(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceiling Panel Compasses |
Tony,
The Sirs compass comes with a "long" and a "short" mounting bracket.
The short one places the unit just below the upper edge of the w/screen.
Perfect. (In my opinion. anyway!)
Cheers,
Ron Jones.(XS359. G-RJWX)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 04/23/04 |
>Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cowlings
>From: "Neville Eyre" <neville@europa-aircraft.com>
>
><neville@europa-aircraft.com>
>
>Hi,
>We could not monitor the cylinder walls, but as most of the heat in the oil is
>generated by it splashing onto the walls, I would guess it was considerable ?
>Not sure whether it is needed in Northern Europe,[most of the year we
>can't keep
>them warm enough] might help in a 914 installation in warmer climates, if
>only
>it was not so expensive ! [ thinks.. perhaps I should make a less expensive
>version at home, to sell ?.....]
>Cheers,
>Nev.
Go for it Nev!
Gunter Reinfeld (that doesn't ring right, anyway he runs the Katana firm
now) used to supply them to Rotax, he had them made in Czeck from fire
retardent polyester. Easy to make for such as you.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 1. Wing tip strobe power packs. 2. Oil pressure sender |
reliabilty
| From: | "Alexander Kaarsberg" <kaarsber(at)terra.com.br> |
> <<<< Are there good reasons for not putting the flash generator units in
> the wings, on an inspection cover?
You will increase roll stability and loose some roll rate due to the increased
roll momentum....
Alex, #529
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "P.A.D.Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-list Hat Drop Mon 26th |
Hi All,
As one of those who failed to make North Weald last
week, I intend to try and make amends by getting there for lunch on Monday
( 26th). Hope to see others there - voucher in Flyer,
Cheers, Paddy Clarke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Colin John Howard Richardson" <cjh.richardson(at)virgin.net> |
Rotax 912UL 80hp for sale immediately. 109hrs total time. Checked by Rotax dealer
- good compressions. For sale due to upgrade to 912 S. Also XS engine ring
mount (unused) and monowheel u/c parts & wheel due change to trigear. Contact
cjh.richardson(at)virgin.net or on Tue 27 Apr to Thur 29 Apr on 07711055210.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Carb Balancing Kit |
Please excuse the slightly commercial nature of this post. I recently
bought a carb balancing kit off Ebay which was for four carburettors,
comprising four vacuum gauges. I have split the unit into two and ended
up with a spare pair of vacuum gauges with piping and restrictor valves.
If anyone in the UK is interested in taking these off my hands, please
contact me off forum for more details.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS (Now with a smoooooth running engine).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tom(at)tompaul.com" <tom(at)tompaul.com> |
| Subject: | trailer/transport |
>
> Hi all,
> The time has come to get my kit from it's original builder in CA. I am
> in NY (NYC Area).
>
> I am considering a few options to transport the partially completed
> kit. A rental truck seems like the simplest choice, but i am having a
> hard time with the idea of tossing 3k to the rental company, not to
> mention the high cost for gas, and then to have nothing but a
> transported kit.
>
> One alternative i am considering is to buy a cargo trailer for 4 to 5 k
> that would then serve as a storage shed for the extra bits while i am
> working on other parts (my workshop is a small one car garage) and it
> would eventually be the transport to the airport.
> The only issue with this is storing the trailer here outside the house.
> I am trying to find a smallish trailer as opposed to the
> auto-transport models that are usual for the required length.
>
> I would be grateful for any specifics regarding the size of a trailer
> to comfortably transport store a finished plane. I see that the length
> of a finished plane is 19'6". Would a 20' box trailer be fine?
>
> Thanks for any info or ideas.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trailer/transport |
tom(at)tompaul.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>Hi all,
>>The time has come to get my kit from it's original builder in CA. I am
>>in NY (NYC Area).
>>
>>I am considering a few options to transport the partially completed
>>kit. A rental truck seems like the simplest choice, but i am having a
>>hard time with the idea of tossing 3k to the rental company, not to
>>mention the high cost for gas, and then to have nothing but a
>>transported kit.
>>
>>One alternative i am considering is to buy a cargo trailer for 4 to 5 k
>>that would then serve as a storage shed for the extra bits while i am
>>working on other parts (my workshop is a small one car garage) and it
>>would eventually be the transport to the airport.
>>The only issue with this is storing the trailer here outside the house.
>> I am trying to find a smallish trailer as opposed to the
>>auto-transport models that are usual for the required length.
>>
>>I would be grateful for any specifics regarding the size of a trailer
>>to comfortably transport store a finished plane. I see that the length
>>of a finished plane is 19'6". Would a 20' box trailer be fine?
>>
>>Thanks for any info or ideas.
>>
>>
>
>Tom
>
>
>
Tom,
Just make sure you have a full 20' "inside" the trailer, that is, if the
airplane is finished. When I picked up my kit, we transported it in a
24' enclosed car trailer. Everything fit just fine... Good luck and
enjoy your new airplane...
--
Jeff
A055 - Almost ready to bond the cockpit module.
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
beecho(at)beecho.org wrote:
>
>Brian
>You can get the same Whelen made strobe electronics for about half the
>price that Whelen charges for their units made for airplanes. I think I
>got mine from strobes.com. If you don't find them, I can look it up.
>
>Tom
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
>To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
>
>
>In a message dated 4/21/2004 2:22:58 PM Central Standard Time,
>n3eu(at)comcast.net writes:
>Why do you question it? If Aeroflash strobes met Part 23 requirements,
>they
>would surely say so. They don't.
>
>Regards,
>Fred F.
>Because Fred I tend to question everything a sales rep says to me...
>Perhaps
>it is because I am a sales Rep for a parts company. :) And yes I know
>that
>they are not part 23. Thought that was a given.
> Do you have any personal experiences with these units that you would
>like
>to share?
>
>Brian S
>A276 Tri Gear. Texas
>http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&n
>ame=ga
>llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
>
>
Tom,
Have you got a link for strobes.com? I typed it in and got the typical
"do you want to register this site" type reply. Thanks in advance.
--
Jeff - A055 - almost ready to bond the C/P module
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | FINGER BRAKE SEALS |
Ivor,
Can you tell me where you found the ring and cup seals?
Regards.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ivor.phillips
Subject: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
Hi guys
This might be of interest to a few of you, building tri-gears with the
factory finger-brake mod 65.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sternpost fitting |
Mike
Certainhly had the problem with the port side impinging on the foam of
the fin such that the line of the fine would be greatly distorted with
the stern post in place. We removed the area of foam to allow the fin
skin to lie directly onto the stern post. We also reinforced the area of
fin with a couple of plies of but and the whole lot fitted very nicely.
Regards
Paul
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FINGER BRAKE SEALS |
Researching a Girling Catalogue, for 3/4 inch seals suitable for DOT 3/4/5.1
automotive brake fluid, The ring seals are for ford escort front cylinders
and the cup seals are for Mazda rear cylinders, they meet the right spec for
Diameter/ depth and material (Ethylene-Proplene)
The SP 2044 ring seals need to have there centre slightly enlarged to fit
over the piston and maintain the correct seal to the bore, If you don't the
seals overall diameter will increase beyond 3/4 inch, and the piston will
stick in the bore and not return easily ( don't ask how i know this)
I have a some Buna-N (nitrile) O rings suitable for the MATCO Brake
calipers used on the tri-gear,can be used with Mil-h-5606 or Silicone DOT5
fluid or ATF
surplus to requirements so if you need any FOC give me a call
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
>
> Ivor,
>
> Can you tell me where you found the ring and cup seals?
>
> Regards.
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> ivor.phillips
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
>
>
>
> Hi guys
> This might be of interest to a few of you, building tri-gears with the
> factory finger-brake mod 65.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD IDDON" <riddon(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Tri Gear Nose gear Bungee replacement |
My Nose Gear bungee had gone 'soft' again so I have decide to replace it
with the arrangement suggested by Kevin Pilcher in the latest Europa
Flyer. I am however having great difficulty persuading the loop of
bungee cord to stretch far enough to go from the nose gear, over the
central bar and back down again. A loop of 16 inches circumference just
doesn't seem long enough.
Anyone else tried this and if so, did you stick with Kevin's dimensions
or use a longer shock cord?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS (expecting a hernia shortly if I carry on trying!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FINGER BRAKE SEALS |
Ivor,
I am confused. Last week you said that seals SP2044 and SP3694 are compatible only
with Dot5. Now you imply that they are for automotive fluid, i.e. Dot3 etc..
Please confirm one way or the other, and where does ATF fit in ?
Karl
From: "ivor.phillips" ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 09:33:34 +0100
-- Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips" ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
Researching a Girling Catalogue, for 3/4 inch seals suitable for DOT 3/4/5.1
automotive brake fluid, The ring seals are for ford escort front cylinders
and the cup seals are for Mazda rear cylinders, they meet the right spec for
Diameter/ depth and material (Ethylene-Proplene)
The SP 2044 ring seals need to have there centre slightly enlarged to fit
over the piston and maintain the correct seal to the bore, If you don't the
seals overall diameter will increase beyond 3/4 inch, and the piston will
stick in the bore and not return easily ( don't ask how i know this)
I have a someBuna-N (nitrile) O rings suitable for the MATCO Brake
calipers used on the tri-gear,can be used with Mil-h-5606 or Silicone DOT5
fluid or ATF
surplus to requirements so if you need any FOC give me a call
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "RICHARD IDDON" riddon(at)btinternet.com
Subject: RE: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
-- Europa-List message posted by: "RICHARD IDDON" riddon(at)btinternet.com
Ivor,
Can you tell me where you found the ring and cup seals?
Regards.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ivor.phillips
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
-- Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips"
ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
Hi guys
This might be of interest to a few of you, building tri-gears with the
factory finger-brake mod 65.
Have more fun with your phone - download ringtones, logos, screensavers, games
& more. Click here to begin!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
| Subject: | flash generator units |
Brian
Try http://www.strobesnmore.com/
I think that is where I got my Whelen power supply. Works great. I am
using it with a fin top streamlined strobe and another in the trailing
edge of the rudder.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rocketman
Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
beecho(at)beecho.org wrote:
>
>Brian
>You can get the same Whelen made strobe electronics for about half the
>price that Whelen charges for their units made for airplanes. I think
I
>got mine from strobes.com. If you don't find them, I can look it up.
>
>Tom
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
>To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
>
>
>In a message dated 4/21/2004 2:22:58 PM Central Standard Time,
>n3eu(at)comcast.net writes:
>Why do you question it? If Aeroflash strobes met Part 23 requirements,
>they
>would surely say so. They don't.
>
>Regards,
>Fred F.
>Because Fred I tend to question everything a sales rep says to me...
>Perhaps
>it is because I am a sales Rep for a parts company. :) And yes I know
>that
>they are not part 23. Thought that was a given.
> Do you have any personal experiences with these units that you would
>like
>to share?
>
>Brian S
>A276 Tri Gear. Texas
>http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&
n
>ame=ga
>llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
>
>
Tom,
Have you got a link for strobes.com? I typed it in and got the typical
"do you want to register this site" type reply. Thanks in advance.
--
Jeff - A055 - almost ready to bond the C/P module
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
In a message dated 4/26/2004 9:51:38 AM Central Standard Time,
beecho(at)beecho.org writes:
http://www.strobesnmore.com/
Thank you Tom
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&name=ga
llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FINGER BRAKE SEALS |
Karl
DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid is combatable with both types of seals i.e.
Buna-N-(Nitrile) and Ethylene-Proplene,
DOT 3/4/5.1 (five point one) is glycol based and should only be used with
Ethylene- Proplene seals.
The Automotive seals SP2044 and SP3694 are made of Ethylene-Proplene , So
DOT3/4/5.1 (five point one) Or Silicone DOT 5 (five) is acceptable.
MATCO Brake caliper Seals are made of Buna-N-Nitrile and will use MIL-H5606
hydraulic fluid Or ATF automatic transmission fluid OR DOT5 (five)Silicone
fluid
Your choice is to CHANGE ALL YOUR SEALS TO Ethylene-Proplene and use Glycol
based DOT 3/4/5.1(five point one) THE PREFERRED OPTION IMHO, THAT'S WHAT I
HAVE DONE USING GLYCOL DOT 5.1 (FIVE POINT ONE) Or use Silicone DOT
5(FIVE)
OR CHANGE ALL YOUR SEALS TO Buna-N(Nitrile) which will use MIL-H5606 or ATF
automatic transmission fluid or Silicone DOT 5 (five)
HAVE A MIXTURE OF BOTH TYPES OF SEALS IN THE ONE SYSTEM MEANS YOU MUST USE
SILICONE DOT 5 (FIVE)
I hope that clears the misunderstanding
regards
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
----- Original Message -----
From: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
>
>
> Ivor,
>
>
> I am confused. Last week you said that seals SP2044 and SP3694 are
compatible only with Dot5. Now you imply that they are for automotive fluid,
i.e. Dot3 etc.. Please confirm one way or the other, and where does ATF fit
in ?
>
>
> Karl
>
>
> From: "ivor.phillips" ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
> Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 09:33:34 +0100
>
> -- Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips"
ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
>
> Researching a Girling Catalogue, for 3/4 inch seals suitable for DOT
3/4/5.1
> automotive brake fluid, The ring seals are for ford escort front cylinders
> and the cup seals are for Mazda rear cylinders, they meet the right spec
for
> Diameter/ depth and material (Ethylene-Proplene)
> The SP 2044 ring seals need to have there centre slightly enlarged to fit
> over the piston and maintain the correct seal to the bore, If you don't
the
> seals overall diameter will increase beyond 3/4 inch, and the piston will
> stick in the bore and not return easily ( don't ask how i know this)
> I have a someBuna-N (nitrile) O rings suitable for the MATCO Brake
> calipers used on the tri-gear,can be used with Mil-h-5606 or Silicone DOT5
> fluid or ATF
> surplus to requirements so if you need any FOC give me a call
> Ivor Phillips
> XS486 London UK
> CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
> trial fit top and wings,Undercarriage fitted,playing with tie bar
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RICHARD IDDON" riddon(at)btinternet.com
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
>
>
> -- Europa-List message posted by: "RICHARD IDDON" riddon(at)btinternet.com
>
> Ivor,
>
> Can you tell me where you found the ring and cup seals?
>
> Regards.
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> ivor.phillips
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: FINGER BRAKE SEALS
>
> -- Europa-List message posted by: "ivor.phillips"
> ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com
>
> Hi guys
> This might be of interest to a few of you, building tri-gears with the
> factory finger-brake mod 65.
>
>
> Have more fun with your phone - download ringtones, logos, screensavers,
games & more. Click here to begin!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: flash generator units |
Where did you get the streamlined fin-top strobe that you refer to?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: <beecho(at)beecho.org>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: flash generator units
>
> Brian
> Try http://www.strobesnmore.com/
>
> I think that is where I got my Whelen power supply. Works great. I am
> using it with a fin top streamlined strobe and another in the trailing
> edge of the rudder.
>
> Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rocketman
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
>
>
> beecho(at)beecho.org wrote:
>
> >
> >Brian
> >You can get the same Whelen made strobe electronics for about half the
> >price that Whelen charges for their units made for airplanes. I think
> I
> >got mine from strobes.com. If you don't find them, I can look it up.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> >EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
> >To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
> >
> >
> >In a message dated 4/21/2004 2:22:58 PM Central Standard Time,
> >n3eu(at)comcast.net writes:
> >Why do you question it? If Aeroflash strobes met Part 23 requirements,
> >they
> >would surely say so. They don't.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Fred F.
> >Because Fred I tend to question everything a sales rep says to me...
> >Perhaps
> >it is because I am a sales Rep for a parts company. :) And yes I know
> >that
> >they are not part 23. Thought that was a given.
> > Do you have any personal experiences with these units that you would
> >like
> >to share?
> >
> >Brian S
> >A276 Tri Gear. Texas
> >http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&
> n
> >ame=ga
> >llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
> >
> >
> >==
> >==
> >==
> >==
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Tom,
>
> Have you got a link for strobes.com? I typed it in and got the typical
> "do you want to register this site" type reply. Thanks in advance.
>
> --
> Jeff - A055 - almost ready to bond the C/P module
> Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
| Subject: | flash generator units |
From AC Spruce. It was a little over $100 USD.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ami
McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
Where did you get the streamlined fin-top strobe that you refer to?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: <beecho(at)beecho.org>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: flash generator units
>
> Brian
> Try http://www.strobesnmore.com/
>
> I think that is where I got my Whelen power supply. Works great. I
am
> using it with a fin top streamlined strobe and another in the trailing
> edge of the rudder.
>
> Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rocketman
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
>
>
> beecho(at)beecho.org wrote:
>
> >
> >Brian
> >You can get the same Whelen made strobe electronics for about half
the
> >price that Whelen charges for their units made for airplanes. I
think
> I
> >got mine from strobes.com. If you don't find them, I can look it up.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> >EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
> >To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Europa-List: flash generator units
> >
> >
> >In a message dated 4/21/2004 2:22:58 PM Central Standard Time,
> >n3eu(at)comcast.net writes:
> >Why do you question it? If Aeroflash strobes met Part 23
requirements,
> >they
> >would surely say so. They don't.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Fred F.
> >Because Fred I tend to question everything a sales rep says to me...
> >Perhaps
> >it is because I am a sales Rep for a parts company. :) And yes I
know
> >that
> >they are not part 23. Thought that was a given.
> > Do you have any personal experiences with these units that you
would
> >like
> >to share?
> >
> >Brian S
> >A276 Tri Gear. Texas
>
>http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=BrianS&op=modload&
> n
> >ame=ga
> >llery&file=index&include=view_album.php
> >
> >
> >==
> >==
> >==
> >==
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Tom,
>
> Have you got a link for strobes.com? I typed it in and got the
typical
> "do you want to register this site" type reply. Thanks in advance.
>
> --
> Jeff - A055 - almost ready to bond the C/P module
> Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
Can anyone who has made aluminium sub panels tell me what material they
have used - thickness, type of alloy etc. Going to get them laser cut
rather than the factory versions as the instrument module has been
altered to accommodate the BMA EFIS 1.
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
________________________________________________________________________________
Since there is no possibility of hanging so much weight on the panel to
allow it to deform, and all aluminum alloys have essentially the same
modulus of elasticity, select any conveniently available 1/8 inch / 3 mm
thick sheet stock, but you must also consider what type of finish you intend
to use. For painted or powder coating, any alloy will do, but if you intend
to anodize the panel then I recommend that you determine (I can't help you
on this part) whether the heat affected zone at the laser cut edge will
respond to anodizing in exactly the same manner as the rest of the sheet. I
would expect that the folks doing the laser cutting will be able to
recommend a suitable alloy.
The commonly available alloys in sheet form are 2024, 3003, 5052, 6061 (the
alloy I have chosen), and 7075. Although 2024 and 7075 are used extensively
for structural shapes in aircraft, these higher strength alloys are
over-kill (and over-priced) for the panel.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Stewart
Subject: Europa-List: panel material
Can anyone who has made aluminium sub panels tell me what material they
have used - thickness, type of alloy etc. Going to get them laser cut
rather than the factory versions as the instrument module has been
altered to accommodate the BMA EFIS 1.
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Paul,
All the panels we make and have made by Aerotronics, Gulf Coast Avionics,
Etc. are made with .063 Aluminum, 2024 or 6061 generally. Other alloys can
certainly be used.
Bob
Flight Crafters
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Stewart
Subject: Europa-List: panel material
Can anyone who has made aluminium sub panels tell me what material they
have used - thickness, type of alloy etc. Going to get them laser cut
rather than the factory versions as the instrument module has been
altered to accommodate the BMA EFIS 1.
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Hi all,
I was wondering if anyone has done this measurement. I came up with 17.8 US gallons
in my XS Mono wheel, does that seem about right ?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Paul
That is what I came up with last week. Thanks for confirming my
measurements. (US gallons)
Cliff Shaw
Edmonds, WA 98020
N229WC "Wile E. Coyote"
Flying ever day I can to get my test time flown off. Betty wants a hide !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Sternpost fitting |
Mike,
I dont know if it is relevant to your situation but have you read the Europa
Aircraft News Tech Talk Issue No 25 page 9? It specifically mentions the
need to cut back the port side of the stern post.
I also had some problem getting the ribs fully in. I ended up positioning
them at a slightly different angle and slightly lower - not much, but it
enabled them to go further in.
Brian Davies kit 454 Mono XS
Top bonded on, Rudder fitted.
Currently modifying the doors to move the gas strut position (the Europa mod
kit is a very bad fit!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Sternpost fitting
>
> Having initially set up my sternpost to align with the fuselage bottom, I
find that the fin needs about 1.5 ins of its trailing edge removed and that
the sternpost would butt against 1.5ins of foam reinforced port fin surface
whilst the stb side is clear of the foam.. On trial fitting the ribs I found
that they could be forced in to the fin only about 5, 15 and 23ins from the
joint line, i.e. 2ins less that indicated in the manual. My problem is
this - is the position of the sternpost fore and aft critical? If I accept
this position, will I find that the rudder is misplaced or the line of the
fin/rudder uneven?
> I am still doing all I can before topping out.
> Those that have passed this stage, please let me know how you faired.
> Thanks
> Mike
> XS440
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
| Subject: | trailer/transport |
Tom,
You might check in automobile magazines for car transport. There are
businesses that will transport cars across country for a fee. I have no
idea how much. Look in Hemings motor news or Competition Press.
I've designed and am having fabricated a fully enclosed trailer that will
house a monowheel with both sets of wings. Drawings will be available after
mine is done and debugged. Cost of materials and labor is about $4000.
Jim & Heather A185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tom(at)tompaul.com" <tom(at)tompaul.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trailer/transport |
Hi Jim,
The trailer you are building sounds good. Does triton.net (your email)
have anything to do with triton trailers.
When will the construction of your trailer be happening? I am trying
to find an efficient way to spend money on transport and a trailer, as
i am not your typical builder in that i don't have a lot of money for a
luxury like an airplane. 4k sounds great. I promised the seller i
would have it out of his garage by the end of May, so i would consider
putting the kit in storage out in CA until a trailer was ready for the
cross-country trip.
Please let me know the time-frame on the construction of your trailer.
Maybe if we have the fabricator make 2 it would be easier than one at a
time.
Thanks very much for writing.
Tom
On Apr 27, 2004, at 10:46 AM, Jim Butcher wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> You might check in automobile magazines for car transport. There are
> businesses that will transport cars across country for a fee. I have
> no
> idea how much. Look in Hemings motor news or Competition Press.
>
> I've designed and am having fabricated a fully enclosed trailer that
> will
> house a monowheel with both sets of wings. Drawings will be available
> after
> mine is done and debugged. Cost of materials and labor is about $4000.
>
> Jim & Heather A185
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: panel material |
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
on 4/26/04 8:12 PM, Robert Berube at bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com wrote:
Quick question on this topic. Since the original panel was designed using
fiberglass why not lay up some ply's to make the bolt on panel out of it.
Seams as though it would be easier for a homebuilder to work with. If so how
many layers are enough for strength for say the usual 6 pack?
Jeff
A258
>
> Paul,
> All the panels we make and have made by Aerotronics, Gulf Coast Avionics,
> Etc. are made with .063 Aluminum, 2024 or 6061 generally. Other alloys can
> certainly be used.
>
> Bob
> Flight Crafters
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Stewart
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: panel material
>
>
> Can anyone who has made aluminium sub panels tell me what material they
> have used - thickness, type of alloy etc. Going to get them laser cut
> rather than the factory versions as the instrument module has been
> altered to accommodate the BMA EFIS 1.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> G-GIDY
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Actually the flat faces on the panel are NOT just epoxy-glass - the strength
comes from a piece of 1/8 inch / 3 mm plywood sandwiched between the glass
layers.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Roberts
Subject: Re: Europa-List: panel material
on 4/26/04 8:12 PM, Robert Berube at bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com wrote:
Quick question on this topic. Since the original panel was designed using
fiberglass why not lay up some ply's to make the bolt on panel out of it.
Seams as though it would be easier for a homebuilder to work with. If so how
many layers are enough for strength for say the usual 6 pack?
Jeff
A258
>
> Paul,
> All the panels we make and have made by Aerotronics, Gulf Coast Avionics,
> Etc. are made with .063 Aluminum, 2024 or 6061 generally. Other alloys
can
> certainly be used.
>
> Bob
> Flight Crafters
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Stewart
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: panel material
>
>
> Can anyone who has made aluminium sub panels tell me what material they
> have used - thickness, type of alloy etc. Going to get them laser cut
> rather than the factory versions as the instrument module has been
> altered to accommodate the BMA EFIS 1.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> G-GIDY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Rotax 914 exhaust bracket |
Hello all,
For the second time I found one of the turbo brackets broken. The bracket I am
talking about is a stainless steel welded tubular part which is bolted to the
crankcase on one side and on the exhaust manifold on the other.
This part is very difficult to remove and replace and is very expensive : 192 Euros
($240) last September.
The fist breakage was after 207 hours ( In fact it was certainly broken before).
Second time was 38 hours later.
Has anybody experienced this problem ?
R=E9mi
F-PGKL, XS 914 monowheel, purchased with 65 hours and many things to fix. Now 245
hours.
Hello all,
For the second time I found one of the turbo brackets broken. The bracket I am
talking about is a stainless steel welded tubular part which is bolted to the
crankcase on one side and on the exhaust manifold on the other.
This part is very difficult to remove and replace and is very expensive: 192 Euros
($240) last September.
The fist breakage was after 207 hours ( In fact it was certainly broken before).
Second time was 38 hours later.
Has anybody experienced this problem?
R=E9mi
F-PGKL, XS 914 monowheel, purchased with 65 hours and many things to fix. Now 245
hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: panel material |
| From: | Jeff Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
So would that mean 3MM aluminum is stonger and that 4 or 5 layers of flat
glass bid would not work for this aplication?
Jeff
>
> Actually the flat faces on the panel are NOT just epoxy-glass - the strength
> comes from a piece of 1/8 inch / 3 mm plywood sandwiched between the glass
> layers.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Roberts
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: panel material
>
>
> on 4/26/04 8:12 PM, Robert Berube at bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>
>
> Quick question on this topic. Since the original panel was designed using
> fiberglass why not lay up some ply's to make the bolt on panel out of it.
> Seams as though it would be easier for a homebuilder to work with. If so how
> many layers are enough for strength for say the usual 6 pack?
>
> Jeff
> A258
>
>
>
>>
>> Paul,
>> All the panels we make and have made by Aerotronics, Gulf Coast Avionics,
>> Etc. are made with .063 Aluminum, 2024 or 6061 generally. Other alloys
> can
>> certainly be used.
>>
>> Bob
>> Flight Crafters
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Well . . . I think that the factory got it right by reinforcing the panel
with plywood (if it were not needed I doubt that they would have done it),
but functionally 3mm aluminum (or even 1.5mm per Flight Crafters) sheet
would be equivalent. My concern with a flat panel of un-reinforced
epoxy-glass is that it would not be sufficiently rigid at 4 or 5 layers.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Roberts
Subject: Re: Europa-List: panel material
So would that mean 3MM aluminum is stonger and that 4 or 5 layers of flat
glass bid would not work for this aplication?
Jeff
>
> Actually the flat faces on the panel are NOT just epoxy-glass - the
strength
> comes from a piece of 1/8 inch / 3 mm plywood sandwiched between the glass
> layers.
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Roberts
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: panel material
>
>
> on 4/26/04 8:12 PM, Robert Berube at bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com wrote:
>
>
> Quick question on this topic. Since the original panel was designed using
> fiberglass why not lay up some ply's to make the bolt on panel out of it.
> Seams as though it would be easier for a homebuilder to work with. If so
how
> many layers are enough for strength for say the usual 6 pack?
>
> Jeff
> A258
>
>
>
>>
>> Paul,
>> All the panels we make and have made by Aerotronics, Gulf Coast Avionics,
>> Etc. are made with .063 Aluminum, 2024 or 6061 generally. Other alloys
> can
>> certainly be used.
>>
>> Bob
>> Flight Crafters
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sternpost fitting |
Thanks Brian,
I have seen the article in Tech Talk 25 but I find that I would have to
remove over 1 inch of sternpost to reach the foam reinforced part of the fin
on the port side. Some will need removing to allow port rudder movement but
I thought this may be a little excessive and putting material back would be
an extra problem. I would love to just forge ahead following the manual but
I have already been caught out too many times and I now spend far too much
time thinking 'what if' before I act so I can hopefully avoid having to redo
or correct things later. I am waiting to hear from Nev and Andy re the above
and will let the forum know the result.
Mike Gamble
xs440
> > Having initially set up my sternpost to align with the fuselage bottom,
I
> find that the fin needs about 1.5 ins of its trailing edge removed and
that
> the sternpost would butt against 1.5ins of foam reinforced port fin
surface
> whilst the stb side is clear of the foam.. On trial fitting the ribs I
found
> that they could be forced in to the fin only about 5, 15 and 23ins from
the
> joint line, i.e. 2ins less that indicated in the manual. My problem is
> this - is the position of the sternpost fore and aft critical? If I accept
> this position, will I find that the rudder is misplaced or the line of the
> fin/rudder uneven?
> > I am still doing all I can before topping out.
> > Those that have passed this stage, please let me know how you faired.
> > Thanks
> > Mike
> > XS440
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Naylor" <jimnaylor.44(at)virgin.net> |
Hi all,
A question for the regular Continental tourists.
Does anyone have contact details for requesting permission to fly a permit
aeroplane into Italy.
Jim Naylor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreign travel |
Jim,
David Joyce has the details, but they don't seem to reply!
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Naylor" <jimnaylor.44(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Foreign travel
>
> Hi all,
> A question for the regular Continental tourists.
> Does anyone have contact details for requesting permission to fly a permit
> aeroplane into Italy.
>
> Jim Naylor
>
>
April 11, 2004 - April 27, 2004
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-du