Europa-Archive.digest.vol-eh
October 03, 2004 - October 19, 2004
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: long range fuel tank |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Attached is the PDF file for the Long Range Tank..
Steved.
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2818#2818
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Houlihan,Tim" <tim.houlihan(at)oce.co.uk> |
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Jabiru Support for Europa
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 22:33:34 +0100
Duncan
Can you confirm you are running a 65" prop
My permit says I've got a 62" warp drive on my Classic ( though I have never
measured it!!) and I wonder how the extra diameter affects things, is a
bigger prop standard with the XS ?
Regards
Tim Houlihan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Duncan
McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru Support for Europa
That was at102 knots (although others in the same formation were recording
between 105 and 115 knots). OAT would have been around 5C or less and
altitude was about 5000' (can check more precise parameters from GPS log).
Fixed pitch wide chord WD 65" x 20.5 deg at tip.
In France last weekend fuel burn at 91 knots was 7 l/hr, 3900 rpm. However,
it was a thermally day and there may have been some contribution from this
because I've not seen fuel burn below 7.25 l/hr before.
Rgds.,
Duncan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru Support for Europa
>
>
> >> Factoid:
> >> A 3300 Jabiru-Europa flown over a long distance in loose formation with
a
> >> 912s-Europa last year returned close to 4 gph. The Rotax burned 2.5gph.
> >>
> >> Duncan McF.
>
> Duncan Hi!
>
> That equates to 11.4 Litres per hour from Europa? What was the airspeed
> performance and at what level and temperature. Was that with CS Prop?
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru 3300 Engine option |
Hi Mike and listers,
Wow! I get back from my trip to a weekend show and see a bit of a scuffle
broke out, albeit (hopefully) good-natured. I did say in my original post
that I don't believe these owner / builder lists should be used for
advertising by guys like me, and I apologize if it looked that way. As I
said before, I think we have a very competitive product in the Jabiru
engine, but of course this can be a very subjective matter, especially when
we discuss looks, sound, etc. Let me also be clear that I believe the Rotax
is a great engine; I never 'rubbish' it (or don't mean to!), but try to
offer a view of it's capabilities and strengths alongside the Jabiru
alternative. I also have you guys (probably) at a disadvantage in that I
witness the comments made from satisfied Jabiru engine owners with aircraft
very similar to the Europa's speed range and general layout. I had to smile
when I saw the comment about me 'using the Europa web site as a market place
for (your) Jabiru engines', not because I don't take it seriously, but
because there are, of course Jabiru engines lists (some here will belong but
may never admit it! :)) and when an interloper comes in and starts singing
the praises of Rotax he will get the same response!
Anyway, Mike, I'm also aware of the history of cooling problems in UK
Europas and (honestly) can't understand why this was, or what happened. I'm
really not interested in digging-over those cases which is why I'm doing
Frank Wood's XS as a clean-sheet approach using MY experience. I'm happy to
be a member of this list on a 'reactive' basis; if I get asked a question,
I'll give a straight (no BS) answer, and based on fact if at all possible. I
was invited onto the list (thanks), but will equally be happy to leave if
there's a general feeling that I'm exploiting this space for commercial
reasons. It takes time to give considered responses rather than 'ours is
better than yours' rhetoric and I really don't want to be here if my
responses are seen as unhelpful.
Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MICHAEL PARKIN
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru 3300 Engine option
Hi Andy,
If you are going to use the Europa web site as a market place for your
jabiru engines, can we cut to the bottom line.
How many Europa XS aircraft have flown with the Jabiru 3300 engine that have
not experienced severe cooling problems. I have only heard of 2 in the UK
and during trial flying - both aircraft had difficulty making the take-off
point before they overheated. I accept that this may well be a cowling
issue - but has it yet to be proven successfully?
And yes you are right, I am very satisfied with my Rotax 914.
regards,
Mike.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru Engine Questions (round 2 of 2) |
Bruce,
Thanks for the info. As per last time, your questions need time for adequate
response and I'll get answers posted within 48 hours. I guess I post photos
to the link at the bottom of the page and refer to them from here in a reply
(?).
I don't have the actual figures in front of me, but can relate that my
prediction of 5 US gph is realistic on a long-ish trip (480 nm each way).
Coming home at 120 kts TAS had the EIS fuel flow sitting at 5gph all the way
in cruise. In fact, with the Airmaster prop (2600 rpm cruise, 2800 climb and
3000 t/o), I use fuel-burn as the main throttle feedback setting. I do have
a MP readout, but prefer to go on fuel burn. EGTs are around 1420 max (OK,
Brits and Aussies, that's 771C). CHTs all well within limits. The trip back
(Alabama to SW Florida) was in great weather, at between 5,500' and 9,500'
and took about 4 hours non - stop, taking-in much of the damaged hurricane
areas for both Ivan and Charlie. (Wish I'd bought stocks in the makers of
blue plastic sheeting) No, I'm not bragging about range/endurance, I just
wanted to get back for a beer!
Cheers, more soon on Bruces's questions. The beer awaits.
Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
www.suncoastjabiru.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Subject: Europa-List: Jabiru Engine Questions (round 2 of 2)
Jabiru Questions (round 2 of 2)
Andy (of Suncoast Jabiru)
-----Thank you for your response to my previous questions.
Europa-list members
----- 1. Thank you for your postings to the europa-list in
response to my Jabiru 3300 questions. I appreciate the
shared dialogue and hearing of your experiences and
opinions.
----- 2. Thank you also for the more than twenty private
e-mails that were sent to me and not to this list. Some of
those e-mails informed me of their own Jabiru 3300
installations, or of Europa/Jabiru installations that they
were aware of. Other e-mails thanked me for bringing up the
topic of alternative powerplants. A few e-mails suggested
additional questions for Andy and Jabiru and I have tried to
include their questions below. Three of these private
e-mails were extremely critical of me posting my first set
of Jabiru questions and suggested that powerplant
discussions should be held on another forum. The writers of
those three personal e-mails are in addition to those
list-members who have publicly posted on the europa-list
their dislike for a vendor supplying information to the
list. I believe information that helps us make the most
important decision we face in the construction of our
Europas is worthy of inclusion in this list regardless of
the source so long as it is based on real-life experiences
that can be confirmed. If Andy starts to annoy us with
special offers or other blatant messages of a commercial
nature, then we can ask him to be quiet and return to his
lurking mode.
My Jabiru 3300 questions for today:
1. Reliability: By popular demand, we would like to hear
your comments about reliability. What statistics have
Jabiru gathered? I'm sure others on the list will respond
with their own experiences and observations. This issue is
of utmost concern for all of us evaluating powerplants, and
perhaps the most difficult thing for you to prove to us.
2. Cowling / appearance: I've searched various Jabiru
factory and dealer websites and have been unable to locate
any Europa cowling photos other than Bob Harrison's one-off
(?) solution. I understand from your recent e-mail comments
that there are two commercially available cowlings -- the
one from the Jabiru factory and another one that you
(Suncoast Jabiru) have produced.
3. Installation: Do you have any photos of a recent
vintage Jab 3300, installed in a Europa XS. (The only
images that are easy to find are Bob Harrison's Classic
Europa utilizing a custom cowling (?) and a custom (?)
engine mount? I'd appreciate seeing a series of photos
taken at different stages of the installation showing
pre-install preparation (fuel line and power feeds etc.),
engine mount only installed, then photos with engine
mounted, then with air baffles mounted and modified as
necessary, then with bottom cowl, and finally with the top
cowl all closed up and ready to go.
4. Serviceability and access: I recall Bob Harrison
commenting somewhere that it was challenging to access the
carburetor and perhaps other components in his Europa
Classic. I think he also speculated that access in a Europa
XS would be even tighter due to the XS's extended foot
wells. (Sorry Bob H. if you are not the one who posted this
observation). I would appreciate hearing comments from Andy
or Jabiru users regarding this concern. I also would like
to see photos that illustrate this issue if it really is a
problem and what you do as a "work-around".
5. Electrical generating capability: From the archives of
the Europa List and the Jabiru List, I have found that many
builders believe that perhaps neither Jabiru nor Rotaxes
have alternators sufficient to power all the strobes, nav
lights, wig-wag recognition lights, avionics, and other toys
that we would like to run. Obviously most Europa's are
flown with the standard Rotax or Jabiru alternators, but is
it feasible to stack a pair of the Jab alternators on the
rear of the 3300 like I believe they do on the Jab 5100 and
does the Europa installation leave you enough room to do so?
Would there be adequate room to mount one of B&C's vacuum
pump alternators on the Jabiru vacuum pad, (and does it
work). Are there belt-driven alternators that can be
sourced and do they fit under the cowl?
6. Prop flange design and prop weight: A Europa-List
member has provided very extensive documentation of the
challenges he faced and the modifications he had to make in
order to utilize his chosen constant speed prop with an
early Jabiru 3300. What is Jabiru's current position on
this matter and have modifications, changes to
specifications or other provisions been made in recent years
that address this issue.
7. Lastly, inquiring minds are anxious for the
fuel-consumption update that you mentioned in an earlier
post. We need adequate and realistic fuel performance
details. Fuel usage in a Europa is a huge issue due to the
small tank size. Fuel capacity is only 18 U.S. gallons but
early Europa marketing materials diffused this issue by
discussing Kim Prout's 2.1 GPH economy-cruise experiences in
his 80 HP 912, and Dennis Vorheee's 200 MPH experiences with
his 914. A review of some of a list-member's postings
indicate Jabiru powered Europas will, based on his
experiences, only have a couple of hours of flight time. I
have saved emails from him reporting 7.08 (converted to U.S.
gallons) GPH at 125K and 6.12G GPH at economy cruise (110K).
(I believe his e-mails stated consumption in Imperial
gallons which I hope I have accurately converted to U.S.
gallons.) At his higher consumption rate, that works out to
only 2 hours and 34 minutes from which you have to subtract
a 30 to 45 minute reserve.
Thanks again for everyone's comments,
Bruce L
XS 142
Tracy, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Modifications and Bulletins and Revisions oh my.. |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Well, I've posted what docs I have on the forum under Europa files.
Hopefully E4 will online soon.
Steved.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Proctor" <pjoe2(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Engine option |
Andy;
I for one welcome your input as one that looks forward to the firewall
forward purchase.
regards.
Joe A- 272
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Monowheel Trailer |
I'm in the market for a monowheel trailer - new or used.
Does anyone have one for sale or is aware of where I might get one?
Thanks
Sean O'Reilly
Reigate, Surrey
07818 011023
Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Trailer |
Sean,
I bought my trailer from Schofield Aviation. at
http://www.schofieldaviation.com/
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>
>
>
> I'm in the market for a monowheel trailer - new or used.
>
> Does anyone have one for sale or is aware of where I might get one?
>
> Thanks
>
> Sean O'Reilly
> Reigate, Surrey
> 07818 011023
>
> Express yourself with cool new emoticons
> http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi Tim
For your info the standard prop diameters for the Classic and XS are 62 inch and
64 inch respectively. The XS installation places the engine 1inch higher so
the ground clearance should be the same for both. The larger diameter should be
slightly more efficient as it reduces the blade angle nearer to the optimum
for the same power setting. I use a 64inch prop with my Classic on the basis that
if you get within 1inch of prop strike it is very likely that the aircraft
will continue pitching until the prop touches the ground anyway.
With warpdrive blades (Airmaster & NSI props) untapered blades are usually specified
with the 912S and 914 whereas tapered blades are better matched to the lower
power 912.
Regards
Nigel Charles
-----Original Message-----
Can you confirm you are running a 65" prop
My permit says I've got a 62" warp drive on my Classic ( though I have never
measured it!!) and I wonder how the extra diameter affects things, is a
bigger prop standard with the XS ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Trailer |
Mike,
Thanks for the tip - happy with yours?
Sean
>From: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 11:57:04 +0100
>
>
>
>Sean,
>
>I bought my trailer from Schofield Aviation. at
>http://www.schofieldaviation.com/
>
>regards,
>
>Mike
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm in the market for a monowheel trailer - new or used.
> >
> > Does anyone have one for sale or is aware of where I might get one?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Sean O'Reilly
> > Reigate, Surrey
> > 07818 011023
> >
> > Express yourself with cool new emoticons
> > http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
> >
> >
> >
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.co.uk/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Monowheel Trailer |
I have one in France north of Paris (Persan Beaumont)at a good price
1100
If you are interested she is immediately available.
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Sean
O'Reilly
Envoy : lundi 4 octobre 2004 11:40
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
-->
I'm in the market for a monowheel trailer - new or used.
Does anyone have one for sale or is aware of where I might get one?
Thanks
Sean O'Reilly
Reigate, Surrey
07818 011023
Express yourself with cool new emoticons
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Monowheel Trailer |
Yes but we are Three Europa in the Hangar and one trailer is sufficient
now.
Also my Trailer is old model strong and better than the new one.
I am builder N 145 (XS monowheel) and now I have 240 hours flying all
is ok. Next month I install woodcomp Constant speed propeller.
Regards
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Sean
O'Reilly
Envoy : lundi 4 octobre 2004 14:07
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
-->
Mike,
Thanks for the tip - happy with yours?
Sean
>From: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 11:57:04 +0100
>
>
>
>Sean,
>
>I bought my trailer from Schofield Aviation. at
>http://www.schofieldaviation.com/
>
>regards,
>
>Mike
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm in the market for a monowheel trailer - new or used.
> >
> > Does anyone have one for sale or is aware of where I might get one?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Sean O'Reilly
> > Reigate, Surrey
> > 07818 011023
> >
> > Express yourself with cool new emoticons
> > http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
> >
> >
> >
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.co.uk/
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Trailer |
| From: | "Dale G. HetriG Hetrick" <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
Michel,
Please keep us informed about the performance of the Kremen (Woodcomp)
prop.
Thanks,
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Trailer |
I think I bought the last trailer that David Scofield intends to make. He
has closed down his facility and moved into smaller premises. Still might
be worth a call to him.
Brian Davies kit 454
painting in progress.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>
> Sean,
>
> I bought my trailer from Schofield Aviation. at
> http://www.schofieldaviation.com/
>
> regards,
>
> Mike
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm in the market for a monowheel trailer - new or used.
> >
> > Does anyone have one for sale or is aware of where I might get one?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Sean O'Reilly
> > Reigate, Surrey
> > 07818 011023
> >
> > Express yourself with cool new emoticons
> > http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Long EZ's into space |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Hi all!
> Congratulations to Rutan and Mojave crew for the second successful launch and
> landing of SpaceShipOne! They are the official winner of the X Prize. Well
> done!
Well. We have a Glider Wing Kit for Europa. Why not a Galactic Kit.
RATO assisted Europa.
SpaceShipOne also used a modified Dynon EFIS for back up attitude awareness.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long EZ's into space with Dynon |
>
>> Congratulations to Rutan and Mojave crew for the second successful
>> launch and
>> landing of SpaceShipOne! They are the official winner of the X Prize.
>> Well
>> done!
>
>
> Space Ship One also used a modified Dynon EFIS for back up attitude
> awareness.
>
Hi all you Europa crazies... Me Too!
I am close to ordering a Dynon for my bird but I have spoken with 2
people (RV Builders) that have talked to other people with supposedly
bad experience with it. I have heard that after left to right rolls the
unit does not like to right itself. Now I know how negative things can
spread so I am relying on all you experienced flyers using it to give
me the scoop first hand. How about it! Are there enough of you flying
with it to give a comment? Can anyone comment from experience.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
A258
Sanding & wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RK Hallett III <n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Engine option |
Andy,
Thanks for the info, it has been most helpful. Looking fwd to future
remarks.
Ralph
Joe Proctor wrote:
>
>Andy;
>I for one welcome your input as one that looks forward to the firewall
>forward purchase.
>regards.
>Joe A- 272
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
>To:
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Oops. Mistake. It's 64".
65" is allowed on the tri-gear, I understand. Although the taildragger has
loads more ground-prop clearance than the tri.
The smaller diameter prop should in theory be better for ultimate speed.
However, a bigger diameter prop provides better climb, which being the case
then enables more of a trade-off on coarsening the pitch without loss of
climb performance, which then helps with top end speed.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com>
>
> From: "Houlihan,Tim" <tim.houlihan(at)oce.co.uk>
> To: "'europa-list(at)matronics.com'"
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Jabiru Support for Europa
> Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 22:33:34 +0100
>
> Duncan
> Can you confirm you are running a 65" prop
>
> My permit says I've got a 62" warp drive on my Classic ( though I have
never
> measured it!!) and I wonder how the extra diameter affects things, is a
> bigger prop standard with the XS ?
>
> Regards
>
> Tim Houlihan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Duncan
> McFadyean
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru Support for Europa
>
>
>
>
> That was at102 knots (although others in the same formation were recording
> between 105 and 115 knots). OAT would have been around 5C or less and
> altitude was about 5000' (can check more precise parameters from GPS log).
> Fixed pitch wide chord WD 65" x 20.5 deg at tip.
> In France last weekend fuel burn at 91 knots was 7 l/hr, 3900 rpm.
However,
> it was a thermally day and there may have been some contribution from this
> because I've not seen fuel burn below 7.25 l/hr before.
>
> Rgds.,
> Duncan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Jabiru Support for Europa
>
>
> >
> >
> > >> Factoid:
> > >> A 3300 Jabiru-Europa flown over a long distance in loose formation
with
> a
> > >> 912s-Europa last year returned close to 4 gph. The Rotax burned
2.5gph.
> > >>
> > >> Duncan McF.
> >
> > Duncan Hi!
> >
> > That equates to 11.4 Litres per hour from Europa? What was the airspeed
> > performance and at what level and temperature. Was that with CS Prop?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Gerry
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Trailer |
<>
Please supply comparative data when you have done this.
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel AUVRAY" <m.auvray@aerodyne-int.com>
Subject: RE : Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
<m.auvray@aerodyne-int.com>
>
> Yes but we are Three Europa in the Hangar and one trailer is sufficient
> now.
> Also my Trailer is old model strong and better than the new one.
>
> I am builder N 145 (XS monowheel) and now I have 240 hours flying all
> is ok. Next month I install woodcomp Constant speed propeller.
>
> Regards
>
> --|--
> --------(*)--------
>
> Michel AUVRAY
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Sean
> O'Reilly
> Envoy : lundi 4 octobre 2004 14:07
> : europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Objet : Re: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
>
>
> -->
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the tip - happy with yours?
>
> Sean
>
>
> >From: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
> >Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
> >Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 11:57:04 +0100
> >
> >
> >
> >Sean,
> >
> >I bought my trailer from Schofield Aviation. at
> >http://www.schofieldaviation.com/
> >
> >regards,
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm in the market for a monowheel trailer - new or used.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have one for sale or is aware of where I might get one?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Sean O'Reilly
> > > Reigate, Surrey
> > > 07818 011023
> > >
> > > Express yourself with cool new emoticons
> > > http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> http://toolbar.msn.co.uk/
>
>
> ==
> direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
<>
I'm sure there's some logic here, but I need it explained to me!
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: RE:
>
> Hi Tim
>
> For your info the standard prop diameters for the Classic and XS are 62
inch and 64 inch respectively. The XS installation places the engine 1inch
higher so the ground clearance should be the same for both. The larger
diameter should be slightly more efficient as it reduces the blade angle
nearer to the optimum for the same power setting. > With warpdrive blades
(Airmaster & NSI props) untapered blades are usually specified with the 912S
and 914 whereas tapered blades are better matched to the lower power 912.
>
> Regards
>
> Nigel Charles
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Can you confirm you are running a 65" prop
>
> My permit says I've got a 62" warp drive on my Classic ( though I have
never
> measured it!!) and I wonder how the extra diameter affects things, is
a
> bigger prop standard with the XS ?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Monowheel Trailer |
OK Dale, but next month because I install the prop in 10 days.
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Dale G.
HetriG Hetrick
Envoy : lundi 4 octobre 2004 17:55
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: RE : Europa-List: Monowheel Trailer
-->
Michel,
Please keep us informed about the performance of the Kremen (Woodcomp)
prop. Thanks, Dale
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monowheel Trailer |
| From: | "Dale G. HetriG Hetrick" <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
Michele.
Thanks, I look forward to hearing the results of your Woodcomp prop
installation.
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Airmaster slip ring brushes |
My Airmaster prop appears to need new slip ring brushes at around 135
hours. Anyone else had to replace these, how many hours and any tips
for fitting?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Jeff
I have been flying with Dynon since they first were available. If you know
some one who can roll fast enough to get Dynon to tumble, I don't want to
ride with him. I doubt that you will see it ever tumble. It is not going
to keep up with acrobatic maneuvers, but who is looking at it then? It is
solid state and very easy on the power usage. Mine is the early model and is
heat sensitive. It flags me by turning black and white when it gets hot (95
F ) but it just keeps on working. (so did all the rest of my systems)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Flying down to Mt. Saint Helens tomorrow to take a closer look.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Cliff,
Is the heat problem still evident with the newer Dynons? I can imagine me
trying to use it after my aircraft sat on the ramp at Benton Airport in Redding
in the summer. It might cool down to 95'F at night! I wonder if Dynon will be
at CopperState or Expo? I guess I could ask them if they are.
Mike Duane
A207 XS Conventional Gear
Redding, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | RE: prop sizes for monowheels |
<>
>I'm sure there's some logic here, but I need it explained to me!<
The point is that if you pitch far enough over during a ground loop (the
most common reason for prop strike) once you have gone far enough to
strike a 64 inch prop on a Classic the pitch angle and inertia is such
that it would have almost certainly continued the extra inch required to
strike a 62 inch prop. The only time I see the smaller diameter saving
the day is a strike over rough ground where the strike is not due to
loss of control. However this is not a very likely scenario. I measured
the prop ground clearances (a/c empty) to be 11 inches and 12 inches
respectively.
Although the above is just a theory and I have been lucky enough not to
have a prop strike so far, talking to those that have the impression is
that once the groundloop has started the pitch/roll manoeuvre continues
until the prop strikes.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com> |
Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly insurers
based on recent experience?
Thanks
Sean O'Reilly
Reigate, Surrey
07818 011023
Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
Sean, I have tried Traffords & Jennings but this year found Hall & Clarke
www.hallandclarke.co.uk gave the best deal. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean O'Reilly" <seanmoreilly(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Insurance
>
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations re Europa friendly
insurers
> based on recent experience?
>
> Thanks
>
> Sean O'Reilly
> Reigate, Surrey
> 07818 011023
>
> Express yourself with cool new emoticons
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Doctors.net.uk e-mail protects you from viruses and unsolicited messages
> _______________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Andrew,
> ...don't know the details of your 'ready made' module, but I
> would suggest planning the routing for wires (conduits) before gluing in.
> There are a number of routes for wiring which may be arduous after the
> insertion and now would be the time..... I had the advantage of assembling
> old-style and have imbedded drink straw routes through some of the cockpit
> where not structural, and included double length pullthrough fishing line
> for any future inclusion.
> Like several others, I opted for alu fuel lines where they are
> difficult to replace, hoping thereby to avoid scraped knuckles in 5
> years...........
> Cheers and good luck,
> Ferg
> A064
Greetings all,
I thought I'd chime in here since I just finished my conduits. What I did was
make a mold using PVC pipe, actually about quarter round of a 2" PVC pipe. I
cut the PVC lenthwise in half with a band saw, then in half again and
flattened out the edges using a belt sander. Then a cut for the proper length for
the
conduit was made, plus a couple of inches. Then I taped the 4 PVC quarter
rounds to a piece of particle board and covered it in packing tape, leaving enough
space between them to allow for flanges of about 3/4" on each side of the
PVC, thereby completing the mold. 2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E" glass
tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side edges of
the PVC to provide flanges for later installation with flox and a few inches
longer than needed. 4 of these were made. Two to go from the rear bulkhead to
the door sill and two to go from the forward edge of the door sills to the
instrument panel. Installing them over the rebate between the upper and lower
fuselage halves results in the inside diameter of these conduits being slightly
larger than a BNC connector, so should I ever have to replace coax it can be
done. On the right side the rear conduit intersects the fuel filler cover front
and back, but isn't tied into the fuel filler cover. Slots were shaped into
the cover to accept the molded conduits.
Next, and since reinforcement is needed under the door sills to keep the
paint from cracking due to putting your weight on the sill during entering and
exiting the aircraft, I roughly fabricated foam molds, triangular in shape, on
the bandsaw, long enough to run the length of the door, plus a couple of inches
fore and aft. Then the foam was hot glued in place under the door sills. I
then clamped the previously made conduits in place and the foam was sanded to a
nice shape so that it flows neatly from conduit to door sill conduit to
conduit. This foam was also sanded to shape so that it ties smoothly into the
irrigation pipe conduit I made in the windscreen frame to feed switch wires and
XM
antenna feed to my overhead panel. I then taped over the molded conduits and the
foam with packing tape and covered the door sill area with 3 layers of 'bid,
including about a 1" overlap onto the previously molded conduits for and aft.
Once the door sills kicked, I removed all the molded parts, cleaned up the
edges on the band saw, scuffed the bonding flanges and re-installed all of the
conduits with flox. Sanding and floating in the edges with a small amount of
bondo after the flox kicked and painting the cockpit with Zolatone resulted in
conduits which look like they are molded as part of the fuselage side. The door
sills are really stiff too. I'm very pleased with the results. It kills two
birds with one rock and the result is certainly worth the 10 or so hours it took
to make them.
I'd be happy to send pictures off list to anyone interested in seeing this
method. It really makes the cockpit look nice.
I didn't leave a pull string, but what you can do is use a shop vac on one
end of the conduit to suck a length of string through should the need arise to
add wires. I learned this trick from an electrician friend and it works great!
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Working on the tailpost and rudder between glider tows)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Mike
My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to Arizonans. I
have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I think
this will fix my problem.
I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was
probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp they
have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" .
One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to the
transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from
Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be
upgrading to The new D10A.
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/
I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is 50 C .
That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to be
related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a filter
available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your airplane)
What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
Cliff and all,
Thanks for your responses. I will be ordering the Dynon. It seams as
though vibration is the enemy so a softer mount for the front panel
plate would be smart. In any case thank for all the responses.
Kindest Regards,
Jeff
A258
Priming, Sanding, Wiring, for a long time.
On Oct 5, 2004, at 11:32 AM, Cliff Shaw wrote:
>
> Mike
>
> My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to
> Arizonans. I
> have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I
> think
> this will fix my problem.
>
> I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was
> probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp
> they
> have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" .
>
> One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to
> the
> transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from
> Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be
> upgrading to The new D10A.
>
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/
>
> I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is
> 50 C .
> That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to
> be
> related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a
> filter
> available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your
> airplane)
> What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing)
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketman <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduits |
TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>
>
>>Andrew,
>> ...don't know the details of your 'ready made' module, but I
>>would suggest planning the routing for wires (conduits) before gluing in.
>>There are a number of routes for wiring which may be arduous after the
>>insertion and now would be the time..... I had the advantage of assembling
>>old-style and have imbedded drink straw routes through some of the cockpit
>>where not structural, and included double length pullthrough fishing line
>>for any future inclusion.
>> Like several others, I opted for alu fuel lines where they are
>>difficult to replace, hoping thereby to avoid scraped knuckles in 5
>>years...........
>>Cheers and good luck,
>>Ferg
>>A064
>>
>>
>
>Greetings all,
>
>I thought I'd chime in here since I just finished my conduits. What I did was
>make a mold using PVC pipe, actually about quarter round of a 2" PVC pipe. I
>cut the PVC lenthwise in half with a band saw, then in half again and
>flattened out the edges using a belt sander. Then a cut for the proper length
for the
>conduit was made, plus a couple of inches. Then I taped the 4 PVC quarter
>rounds to a piece of particle board and covered it in packing tape, leaving enough
>space between them to allow for flanges of about 3/4" on each side of the
>PVC, thereby completing the mold. 2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E" glass
>tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side edges of
>the PVC to provide flanges for later installation with flox and a few inches
>longer than needed. 4 of these were made. Two to go from the rear bulkhead to
>the door sill and two to go from the forward edge of the door sills to the
>instrument panel. Installing them over the rebate between the upper and lower
>fuselage halves results in the inside diameter of these conduits being slightly
>larger than a BNC connector, so should I ever have to replace coax it can be
>done. On the right side the rear conduit intersects the fuel filler cover front
>and back, but isn't tied into the fuel filler cover. Slots were shaped into
>the cover to accept the molded conduits.
>
>Next, and since reinforcement is needed under the door sills to keep the
>paint from cracking due to putting your weight on the sill during entering and
>exiting the aircraft, I roughly fabricated foam molds, triangular in shape, on
>the bandsaw, long enough to run the length of the door, plus a couple of inches
>fore and aft. Then the foam was hot glued in place under the door sills. I
>then clamped the previously made conduits in place and the foam was sanded to
a
>nice shape so that it flows neatly from conduit to door sill conduit to
>conduit. This foam was also sanded to shape so that it ties smoothly into the
>irrigation pipe conduit I made in the windscreen frame to feed switch wires and
XM
>antenna feed to my overhead panel. I then taped over the molded conduits and the
>foam with packing tape and covered the door sill area with 3 layers of 'bid,
>including about a 1" overlap onto the previously molded conduits for and aft.
>Once the door sills kicked, I removed all the molded parts, cleaned up the
>edges on the band saw, scuffed the bonding flanges and re-installed all of the
>conduits with flox. Sanding and floating in the edges with a small amount of
>bondo after the flox kicked and painting the cockpit with Zolatone resulted in
>conduits which look like they are molded as part of the fuselage side. The door
>sills are really stiff too. I'm very pleased with the results. It kills two
>birds with one rock and the result is certainly worth the 10 or so hours it took
>to make them.
>
>I'd be happy to send pictures off list to anyone interested in seeing this
>method. It really makes the cockpit look nice.
>
>I didn't leave a pull string, but what you can do is use a shop vac on one
>end of the conduit to suck a length of string through should the need arise to
>add wires. I learned this trick from an electrician friend and it works great!
>
>Regards,
>
>John Lawton
>Dunlap, TN
>A-245 (Working on the tailpost and rudder between glider tows)
>
>
>
I built my own conduits, using 1 x 2 wooden firing strips, covered with
plastic tape. I laid them on my table, on a piece of sheet plastic and
then laid up two plys of BID wide enough to leave a 1/2" flange. Once
cured, I simply cut out the flanges, where they went under the door.
Very light and plenty of room. Wire can be pulled using a standard fish
tape...
--
Jeff - A055
Finished filling and sanding the wings. Door screens are next...
Builders Log http://www.n55xs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduits |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Another useful preformed conduit is the twin walled plastic piping used in
water or heating applications. It comes in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" diameters and
about 6' - 10' long. It's also has a range of angle bends that fit
externally if required. It is very pliable and more importantly lightweight.
I used 1/2" on both sides. Fixed it tight up under horizontal Door frame on
both sides, applied a little flox a then 2 layers of bid.
The same practice was used around front screen surround to give a conduit to
overhead panel wiring.
The strength it added serves well on door frames and also a sort of rollover
strength to front screen frame.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th |
Hi Folks,
It seems to have gone a bit quiet on the DOTH front. How about White
Waltham on Thursday 7th. I've never been there so I've no comments to
add - other than that the voucher is in Flyer. The weather should be
as good as any day this week.
Cheers,
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
< this will fix my problem. I don't know if this is a design problem. >>
I think it IS a design problem. The Europa panel is a 'sealed box' and gets
very warm behind it due to heat through the firewall and sunshine on the
dark-coloured top. There is no ventilation to counter this.
I've found the same solution as yours to be satisfactory (i.e. vent from
outside directly into the 'box' with vents in the top of the panel to
exhaust the warmed air).There have been alot of avionics fried in Europas,
Terra radios mostly.
Vents and fans in the base of the instrument panel don't work well because
that just draws in the hot air that comes off the firewall-footwells and
floats along the underside of the panel. Try holding your hand at the aft
lower corner of the panel during flight and you'll see what I mean.
Duncan McF.
DuncanMcF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: with Dynon
>
> Mike
>
> My cockpit got very hot while we were flying from Oshkosh to Arizonans. I
> have added a outside air vent tube to blow air up behind my panel. I
think
> this will fix my problem.
>
> I don't know if this is a design problem. The heat behind my panel was
> probably a lot higher than the cockpit. I have not ask Dynon what temp
they
> have set up to be the trigger point for the "flag" .
>
> One thing about the new Dynon D10A is that it outputs it's altitude to the
> transponder in a new way. My transponder is and older design from
> Bendix/King and will not accept this serial output mode. I will not be
> upgrading to The new D10A.
>
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/
>
> I just called them. The temp that the D10 goes "black and white" is 50 C
.
> That is hot. The tumble problem is not a roll rate issue. It seems to be
> related to vibration in just a few airplanes. The EMI problem has a
filter
> available for $10 that goes on the D25 plug. (if EMI bothers your
airplane)
> What else and I find out for you? (I love this thing)
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> Weather in today, I am afraid ! Bummer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th |
Hi Paddy
WW is good, food is excellent and landing fees reasonable, or in this
case free. Just don't run over any hares! There are loads of them.
By the by watch out for a pillock dressed as Biggles doing rides in a
Tiger Moth, he loves cutting inside on the downwind leg!
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paddy
Clarke
Subject: Europa-List: Drop of the Hat Thursday 7th
-->
Hi Folks,
It seems to have gone a bit quiet on the DOTH front. How about
White
Waltham on Thursday 7th. I've never been there so I've no comments to
add - other than that the voucher is in Flyer. The weather should be
as good as any day this week.
Cheers,
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | E-mail contact for E(2004)? |
Europa Community:
Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail?
I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and
the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted).
Good building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Electrical question for 914 folks |
Europaphiles,
This is the question I had for Andy. Perhaps some of you folks who
have completed a 914 installation can help.
I am completing the electrical wiring. I have some questions about
wiring in the two fuel pumps and the trim system.
The diagram on page 25-11 shows a single fuel pump being fed from right
from the load side of the Main alternator through a 30 Amp Slow Blow
fuse and simple 5 Amp breaker. None of your electrical diagrams show
the wiring for electrical fuel pump #2 for the 914.
My aircraft has the battery isolator solenoid fitted.
My panel, as wired by Gulf Coast Avionics, has a 35 Amp circuit breaker
in the electrically equivalent location of the 30 Amp Slow Blow Fuse.
They have pump #1 being being supplied from the Line side of the main
circuit breaker, thence through a 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the
pump. I believe this is the electrical equivalent of the the circuit
for pump 1. Presently, the only way to shut off pump #1 is to pull the
circuit breaker. Should pump #1 go through a switched breaker rather
than a simple breaker?
Pump #2 is presently supplied from the Load side of the main circuit
breaker, thence through a switched 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the
pump. Is this correct? Is this OK? Or, should it also be supplied
from the Line side of the main circuit breaker?
Your diagram (25-11 again) states that the trim should be fed directly
from the battery if the battery isolator solenoid is fitted. Should it
be fed from the hot side of the solenoid or from the load side of the
solenoid?
The trim wiring, as supplied by GCA, is fed from the Load side of the
main circuit breaker and no switch is provided. I do plan to add a
switch to the trim circuit. I need to know from where it should be
supplied.
I hope this is clear. If not, let me know and I'll try to provide a
better description.
Good building all,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Seitz" <daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | E-mail contact for E(2004)? |
I talked to them this morning and ordered a FWF kit and asked about the
email. He said it was not working yet but the fax is. It is the same fax
number as before.
Dean Seitz
Kit A284 N284A XS Tri, 914
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rlborger
Subject: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
Europa Community:
Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail?
I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and
the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted).
Good building,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
(75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: long range fuel tank |
Andrew,
If you contact me off list I will send you the photographs of my DIY long
range kit. It cost $50.00 and works great.
Paul
N378PJ 110 hours and still grinning
----- Original Message -----
From: <ACJARVIS1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: long range fuel tank
>
> I'm getting near to installing my cockpit module- not through countless
hours
> of toil but because I opted for the promotion which included the ready
made
> module.
>
> I was impressed by Paul Stewart's suggestion of upgrading the fuel
selector
> to the Andair.
> so now is obviously the time to do it .
>
> BUT I also would like to plan for option of fitting the long range tank.
> .....assuming it will still be available, and can someone email me the
> instructions?
>
> Question : what should I do next, plumbing-wise?
>
>
> Andrew Jarvis 599
>
> Motor glider monowheel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vaughn Teegarden" <VRTEEGARDEN(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E-mail contact for E(2004)? |
If you talked to them, would you share the phone number or is it the same as
before. I tried there today and only got a busy signal. Of course it could
be that the only line that Sprint has out of Bristol, VA was tied up.
Vaughn Teegarden
Needind a FWF soon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
>
> I talked to them this morning and ordered a FWF kit and asked about the
> email. He said it was not working yet but the fax is. It is the same fax
> number as before.
>
>
> Dean Seitz
> Kit A284 N284A XS Tri, 914
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rlborger
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
>
>
> Europa Community:
>
> Has anyone yet been able to contact E(2004) support via e-mail?
>
> I tried to contact Andy (andy@europa-aircraft.com) with a question and
> the e-mail bounced (reason: 550 relay not permitted).
>
> Good building,
> Bob Borger
> Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
> (75%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
> system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
> Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
> in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 27
> Setting Wings, 28 Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door
> Latches & 35 Doors, 37 Finishing.
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208
> Home: 940-497-2123
> Cel: 817-992-1117
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Long EZ's into space with Dynon
Hi all you Europa crazies... Me Too! I am close to ordering a Dynon for my bird
but I have spoken with 2 people (RV Builders) that have talked to other people
with supposedly
bad experience with it. I have heard that after left to right rolls the
unit does not like to right itself. Now I know how negative things can
spread so I am relying on all you experienced flyers using it to give
me the scoop first hand. How about it! Are there enough of you flying
with it to give a comment? Can anyone comment from experience.
Thanks in advance, Jeff A258 >>>>>>>
Hi Jeff,
I have had a Dynon D10 for 15 months and have about 195 hours of time on it. I
have had some problems (i) initial incorrect attitude indication (corrected by
software upgrade), (ii) internal airspeed sensor leak (fixed by factory) and
(iii) major horizon oscillation at low engine speeds (Now fixed by latest software.
It turned out that my 2 blade prop frequency at 4650 engine rpm coincided
with the internal refresh rate frequency.) The factory has always given me good
service and response. After all this, it is now working fine and I am not
aware of any problems. I would recommend the unit.
I use the unit basically as a horizon reference only since I have a standard '6
pack' panel and as I do not do any aerobatics I cannot testify about self righting
problems. Per the handbook, the horizon display will go grey if you exceed
150 degrees per second roll rate but I never see any problem of that nature.
Again per the handbook, it usually recovers within 30 seconds.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, Whirlwind C/S prop
Mooresville, North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring conduits |
For John Lawton
Regarding your words
"2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E" glass
> tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side
edges of the PVC to provide flanges"
Could you explain what "E" glass tape is please?
and yes I would like to see one or perhaps two photos to me off list.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz working on adj seats after flaps in
working condition.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Wiring conduits
>
> In a message dated 10/4/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> > Andrew,
> > ...don't know the details of your 'ready made' module, but I
> > would suggest planning the routing for wires (conduits) before gluing
in.
> > There are a number of routes for wiring which may be arduous after the
> > insertion and now would be the time..... I had the advantage of
assembling
> > old-style and have imbedded drink straw routes through some of the
cockpit
> > where not structural, and included double length pullthrough fishing
line
> > for any future inclusion.
> > Like several others, I opted for alu fuel lines where they are
> > difficult to replace, hoping thereby to avoid scraped knuckles in 5
> > years...........
> > Cheers and good luck,
> > Ferg
> > A064
>
> Greetings all,
>
> I thought I'd chime in here since I just finished my conduits. What I did
was
> make a mold using PVC pipe, actually about quarter round of a 2" PVC pipe.
I
> cut the PVC lenthwise in half with a band saw, then in half again and
> flattened out the edges using a belt sander. Then a cut for the proper
length for the
> conduit was made, plus a couple of inches. Then I taped the 4 PVC quarter
> rounds to a piece of particle board and covered it in packing tape,
leaving enough
> space between them to allow for flanges of about 3/4" on each side of the
> PVC, thereby completing the mold. 2 layers of 'bid sandwich a layer of "E"
glass
> tape were applied to each mold extending out about 3/4" past the side
edges of
> the PVC to provide flanges for later installation with flox and a few
inches
> longer than needed. 4 of these were made. Two to go from the rear bulkhead
to
> the door sill and two to go from the forward edge of the door sills to the
> instrument panel. Installing them over the rebate between the upper and
lower
> fuselage halves results in the inside diameter of these conduits being
slightly
> larger than a BNC connector, so should I ever have to replace coax it can
be
> done. On the right side the rear conduit intersects the fuel filler cover
front
> and back, but isn't tied into the fuel filler cover. Slots were shaped
into
> the cover to accept the molded conduits.
>
> Next, and since reinforcement is needed under the door sills to keep the
> paint from cracking due to putting your weight on the sill during entering
and
> exiting the aircraft, I roughly fabricated foam molds, triangular in
shape, on
> the bandsaw, long enough to run the length of the door, plus a couple of
inches
> fore and aft. Then the foam was hot glued in place under the door sills. I
> then clamped the previously made conduits in place and the foam was sanded
to a
> nice shape so that it flows neatly from conduit to door sill conduit to
> conduit. This foam was also sanded to shape so that it ties smoothly into
the
> irrigation pipe conduit I made in the windscreen frame to feed switch
wires and XM
> antenna feed to my overhead panel. I then taped over the molded conduits
and the
> foam with packing tape and covered the door sill area with 3 layers of
'bid,
> including about a 1" overlap onto the previously molded conduits for and
aft.
> Once the door sills kicked, I removed all the molded parts, cleaned up the
> edges on the band saw, scuffed the bonding flanges and re-installed all of
the
> conduits with flox. Sanding and floating in the edges with a small amount
of
> bondo after the flox kicked and painting the cockpit with Zolatone
resulted in
> conduits which look like they are molded as part of the fuselage side. The
door
> sills are really stiff too. I'm very pleased with the results. It kills
two
> birds with one rock and the result is certainly worth the 10 or so hours
it took
> to make them.
>
> I'd be happy to send pictures off list to anyone interested in seeing this
> method. It really makes the cockpit look nice.
>
> I didn't leave a pull string, but what you can do is use a shop vac on one
> end of the conduit to suck a length of string through should the need
arise to
> add wires. I learned this trick from an electrician friend and it works
great!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Dunlap, TN
> A-245 (Working on the tailpost and rudder between glider tows)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Insulating fuel and oil lines |
| From: | "Johnsen, Svein K." <Svein.Johnsen(at)mossww.com> |
All,
In March, 2002, there was a brief exchange on the Forum regarding the need for
insulating fuel lines in the engine compartment.
One message stated that FIRESLEEVE (in capitals, so I guess it refers to the Aeroquip
Firesleeve) is part of a mandatory mod in the UK to reduce the possibility
of vapour locks. I.e. a required protection against heat (in addition to
the fire protection offered by this sleeve).
A response to that message can be read to say that the fuel lines are required
only to have protection against fire, while insulation against heat as well as
fireproofing is only required on the oil return hose from the crankcase (which
would otherwise harden and crack).
I would appreciate a clarification as to what PFA's requirements are in this respect
(both for fuel and oil lines), as well as any recommendation beyond PFA's
requirements that builders have incorporated with good results.
Thanks!
Regards,
Svein
A225 - now in Norway, where we get by with what the factory specifies, but maybe
live longer if we add a little extra here and there?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.J. Gregory" <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com> |
| Subject: | Electrical question for 914 folks |
Hello Bob,
The diagram on page 25-11 was developed for the 914 installation after Andy
had an incident on a demonstration ride where the handling pilot switched
OFF the number one fuel pump instead of switching ON the number two pump
during the pre-landing checks. Because the 914 has no mechanical pump, it
all went very tense for short time. There was a Rotax recommendation to
connect one pump directly to the output of the alternator, and the circuit
was revised to do this downstream of the 30 Amp Slow Blow fuse that was
incorporated on the firewall side to protect the cable feeding the bus bar.
This pump has its own 5 Amp circuit breaker, before the switch connecting
the alternator to the bus bar.
This arrangement, together with the number two pump (labelled "secondary
fuel pump" on page 25-11) connected to the main bus bar, allows you to
switch on the battery master (whether you use a solenoid or a direct switch)
and carry out any actions such as programming your GPS without running
either pump. When you are ready to start, the number two pump can be
switched on briefly to check it can supply pressure. The alternator feed
switch should be closed before the engine is started, because it is not
recommended that the alternator should run without a connection to the
battery, and this will automatically switch on the number one pump. If you
wish to be able to isolate the number one pump when the engine is running, I
would recommend a pullable circuit breaker rather than adding a switch,
since you wouldn't normally wish to do this (OK, OK, some people may wish to
even out the wear on the pumps, but they could do this by switching the
electrical connections every annual rather than adding an extra circuit
component).
Ivan Shaw originally asked for the trim circuit to be arranged so that it
could be operated in the event of a dead stick landing after the master
switch had been turned off. This therefore required a feed direct from the
battery rather than downstream of the isolator/master, together with its own
fuse and switch. If you do not wish to have this feature, the trim circuit
could be fed off the main bus. Again, there should be a fuse to protect the
wiring and a switch to isolate the circuit in the event of a trim runaway.
Hope this helps
Mike
Europa Club Safety Officer
Europaphiles,
This is the question I had for Andy. Perhaps some of you folks who have
completed a 914 installation can help.
I am completing the electrical wiring. I have some questions about wiring
in the two fuel pumps and the trim system.
The diagram on page 25-11 shows a single fuel pump being fed from right from
the load side of the Main alternator through a 30 Amp Slow Blow fuse and
simple 5 Amp breaker. None of your electrical diagrams show the wiring for
electrical fuel pump #2 for the 914.
My aircraft has the battery isolator solenoid fitted.
My panel, as wired by Gulf Coast Avionics, has a 35 Amp circuit breaker in
the electrically equivalent location of the 30 Amp Slow Blow Fuse.
They have pump #1 being being supplied from the Line side of the main
circuit breaker, thence through a 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the pump. I
believe this is the electrical equivalent of the circuit for pump 1.
Presently, the only way to shut off pump #1 is to pull the circuit breaker.
Should pump #1 go through a switched breaker rather
than a simple breaker?
Pump #2 is presently supplied from the Load side of the main circuit
breaker, thence through a switched 5 Amp circuit breaker and to the pump.
Is this correct? Is this OK? Or, should it also be supplied from the Line
side of the main circuit breaker?
Your diagram (25-11 again) states that the trim should be fed directly from
the battery if the battery isolator solenoid is fitted. Should it be fed
from the hot side of the solenoid or from the load side of the solenoid?
The trim wiring, as supplied by GCA, is fed from the Load side of the main
circuit breaker and no switch is provided. I do plan to add a switch to the
trim circuit. I need to know from where it should be supplied.
I hope this is clear. If not, let me know and I'll try to provide a better
description.
Good building all,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/N914XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <danbish(at)norwalktucson.com> |
For those still going to Copperstate this weekend and want to touch base,
drop a note with your cell off list to:
N914RB(at)earthlink.net
See you there,
Dan Bish - Tucson, AZ
Kit A144 - N914RB - Mono w/914 & Airmaster prop CM in, Tail planes, mass
balance, tail wheel & main gear in. GSingleton tail wheel mod in, working on
rudder, fuel system, baggage area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: long range fuel tank |
| From: | "Dale G. HetriG Hetrick" <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
Paul,
Would you please send the same info to me?
Thanks,
Dale
gdale2(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Team, anyone not using a 912S (or planning to use a 912S) can delete this
now.
I have just returned from trailering my Europa from near Stansted to Shobdon
(yesterday) and back (today).
I took it to Adrian Lloyd who changed my sprag clutch (in situ) and replaced
the starter motor with the Heavy Duty one. It was whole load of hassle and
it cost me muchos but it had to be done. With the new starter it
whizzes round when I turn the key and starts straight away. It wasn't
starting at all before.
I think that most, if not ALL, 912Ss will need to have this done sooner or
later. Mine didn't start well all last winter and it reoccurred recently. My
engine has done just 100 hours !
I would say that it is essential for ANYONE ordering a 912S to insist on the
Heavy Duty starter. I believe it is only an extra 70 if bought with the
engine. Mine cost 300. (Anyone want a lightly used standard starter ???)
I also think that if you ever have the blade kick-back at start-up you will
sooner or later screw up your sprag clutch, so the onset of kick-back should
send you off to Rotax to buy the HD starter immediately.
I say this as a due warning - listen, discuss, but don't blame me if you
ignore me and need a sprag clutch replacement 2 years down the line.
In fact I really think that Rotax are at fault in the design of this engine
and that they should be liable for the replacement starters and the cost of
replacements and any damage caused by the weak starter. I rather think the
cost of such an admission by them will make the admission of liability
unlikely.
My aircraft is a classic but it has an XS firewall forward so that the sprag
clutch and the starter could be changed in situ. I understand that the
Classic firewall forward installation has less room and engine-out is
required for the replacement of the sprag clutch. The bad news for classic
FWF owners is that the HD starter will not fit as there is not enough room
for it (allegedly - I haven't looked at one).
I will report back after a few flights (or starts) to be sure that the
problem has gone away. I can thoroughly recommend Adrian Lloyd at MicroAir
at Shobdon who did a brilliant job.
Richard with a depleted wallet but (hopefully) a working aeroplane.
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder(at)avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: long range fuel tank |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Paul,
Why not sign up on the EuropaForum and post the pics on Europa-list. Then everyone
can get peek.
Heard you made it to Rough River fly-in, did you park tail down with the wings
rigged backwards? :)
Chat later,
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com> |
I have ben receiving strange blank emails with attachments from a site ref: 'number'@matronics.com,
the 'number' is about 10 to 15 characters long but I do not
know if it is the same each time..
I have not opened any of the attachments and ditch the messages immediately.
Is anyone else receiving such, should I be worried, am I in danger or endangering
anyone else?
Steve Pitt #403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Seitz" <daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | E-mail contact for E(2004)? |
It's the same number as before 011-44-1751-431773
> Dean Seitz
> Kit A284 N284A XS Tri, High Top, 914
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vaughn
Teegarden
Subject: Re: Europa-List: E-mail contact for E(2004)?
If you talked to them, would you share the phone number or is it the same as
before. I tried there today and only got a busy signal. Of course it could
be that the only line that Sprint has out of Bristol, VA was tied up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | news about ordering from europa factory |
I have recently been in touch with Andy Draper, and he tells me that
they can now take payment for orders by credit card. Orders should
be placed by fax (+44
1751 431706), post or phone as the e-mails are not yet working.
Things are gradually getting back to normal!
Incidentally, speaking of credit cards, a member who had ordered
goods from the old Europa company and failed to receive them,
reported that his credit card company gave him a full refund. Anyone
else who paid by card and hasn't yet explored this route should do so
with all speed. Sorry, it's no comfort to the folk who paid big bucks
by bank transfer or cheque etc.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (730 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru Engine Questions (round 2 of 2) |
Bruce,
As promised, here's my responses to your latest questions:
Q. Reliability: By popular demand, we would like to hear
your comments about reliability. What statistics have
Jabiru gathered? I'm sure others on the list will respond
with their own experiences and observations. This issue is
of utmost concern for all of us evaluating powerplants, and
perhaps the most difficult thing for you to prove to us.
A. This subject needs a bit of background, so please bear with me! Jabiru
originally built the 4 - cylinder engine for their own aircraft, back in
about 1990. They had developed a factory-built / type-certificated composite
aircraft for the Australian training and 'Sport Aviation' market, and were
relying on the Italian KFM 1600cc engine for power. Within a few weeks of
gaining the type certificate and having almost spent all their reserves, KFM
decided to cease making engines for aircraft. Jabiru were faced
(essentially) with the Rotax 2-stroke engine (the 912 wasn't yet available
to them) as the only power plant meeting the airframe's requirements for
power and weight. They decided against 2-strokes (for reliability) and took
the unusual and bold step to design and build their own 4 - stroke engine.
The first example was flying 11 months from initial concept. The engine was
very successful in the Jabiru aircraft, and it soon became attractive to
other aircraft and kit manufacturers. Some issues (not many, but enough)
became apparent of cylinder cooling in slower cowled-in installations, like
the Kitfox, Avid, some ultralights, etc. Jabiru responded to this in the
spirit of continuous improvement, and, along with improvements in CNC
manufacturing techniques and better materials, have implemented over 1000
manufacturing changes in (mainly) the 4 - cylinder engine in the first 700
engines built. Since then (i.e. engine serial number 711), only one or two
significant changes have been made. This illustrates currently a very flat
development curve, and is the reason why, for engines over s/n 711, the Time
Between Major Overhauls (TBO) is now 2000 hours, from 1000 before. The 6 -
cylinder engine has a similar track-record; we see very few changes these
days, and these engines also carry a 2000 hour TBO.
It's also worth noting, while discussing reliability, that Jabiru have many
hundreds of type-certificated aircraft / engines in the tough environment of
flight training in Australia. All of these engines are required to be
returned to the factory for major service and this gives them very valuable
experience for product development. Some of these engines have over 6000
hours in service (i.e. multiple TBO overhauls).
Listers here will be aware of claims that Jabiru engines 'suffer from
cooling problems', and of course and unfortunately a few such cases make
bigger news than those with no problems, such is the nature of these lists!
My experience has shown that these days, it is the INSTALLATION, and not the
basic engine, that can lead to problems of cooling. My job with Europa
owners and prospects, is to try to produce a package that can be repeated
time after time, with equally good results, so we avoid some of the pitfalls
people make when trying to design-it-themselves.
Q. Cowling / appearance: I've searched various Jabiru
factory and dealer websites and have been unable to locate
any Europa cowling photos other than Bob Harrison's one-off
(?) solution. I understand from your recent e-mail comments
that there are two commercially available cowlings -- the
one from the Jabiru factory and another one that you
(Suncoast Jabiru) have produced.
A. I'll post some comparative pictures (Jabiru's and ours) on a new page on
our web site within the next week or so, and will post a brief message with
a link to it as soon as it's available.
Q. Installation: Do you have any photos of a recent
vintage Jab 3300, installed in a Europa XS. (The only
images that are easy to find are Bob Harrison's Classic
Europa utilizing a custom cowling (?) and a custom (?)
engine mount? I'd appreciate seeing a series of photos
taken at different stages of the installation showing
pre-install preparation (fuel line and power feeds etc.),
engine mount only installed, then photos with engine
mounted, then with air baffles mounted and modified as
necessary, then with bottom cowl, and finally with the top
cowl all closed up and ready to go.
A. I'll post all available pictures on our site www.suncoastjabiru.com (see
the answer above) and will commit to updating them as more information
becomes available. I'm working now on a Customer's aircraft and will post
pictures accordingly. However, I don't have the luxury of installing an
engine on a new kit, nor indeed unlimited time to produce all the
information I'd like to, at this stage. My aim is to capture sufficient key
information to be able to guide a builder through all aspects of the
installation.
Q. Serviceability and access: I recall Bob Harrison
commenting somewhere that it was challenging to access the
carburetor and perhaps other components in his Europa
Classic. I think he also speculated that access in a Europa
XS would be even tighter due to the XS's extended foot
wells. (Sorry Bob H. if you are not the one who posted this
observation). I would appreciate hearing comments from Andy
or Jabiru users regarding this concern. I also would like
to see photos that illustrate this issue if it really is a
problem and what you do as a "work-around".
A. I take the point, but I don't see the XS installation as any more
difficult than others in my exerience. The carburetor is accessible, but of
course the footwells make it a bit more difficult than types with a 'flat'
firewall. We have set-up the airbox to deliver the intake air directly
downwards from the box, through the SCAT duct to the carburetor.
Q. Electrical generating capability: From the archives of
the Europa List and the Jabiru List, I have found that many
builders believe that perhaps neither Jabiru nor Rotaxes
have alternators sufficient to power all the strobes, nav
lights, wig-wag recognition lights, avionics, and other toys
that we would like to run. Obviously most Europa's are
flown with the standard Rotax or Jabiru alternators, but is
it feasible to stack a pair of the Jab alternators on the
rear of the 3300 like I believe they do on the Jab 5100 and
does the Europa installation leave you enough room to do so?
Would there be adequate room to mount one of B&C's vacuum
pump alternators on the Jabiru vacuum pad, (and does it
work). Are there belt-driven alternators that can be
sourced and do they fit under the cowl?
A. The supplied alternator delivers 20 amps continuous and 25 amps
intermittent peak. I'm just now completing an assisted-build with a Customer
who has a very well equipped Jabiru aircraft: EFIS, Solid state Gyro, 2
GPSs, EIS, comm. radio, intercom, XPonder, VOR/ILS, Trafficscope, landing
Light, nav lights, 3 strobes, electric trim, Tru-Trak 2 - axis autopilot,
electric flaps, etc. We worked hard to find more than 11-12 amps continuous
load (i.e. stuff needed all the time), to about 18v peak. I'm sure there are
those who have, or need higher loads, but I was surprised how efficient most
of today's equipment is. In recognition of these possible needs, I've asked
Jabiru to produce the same double (tandem) alternator setup offered on the
new 8 - cylinder engine, and await their response. Some Customers have
achieved success mounting separated belt-driven alternators but we don't
support these in terms of design or functionality. The B&C alternator fitted
to the rear accessory pad is an alternative, but (as far as I know) it needs
higher RPM to provide meaningful output than can be provided by the Jabiru
at normal cruise speeds. I'll keep lobbying for the factory - designed
tandem alternator for those who need more than 25A.
Q. Prop flange design and prop weight: A Europa-List
member has provided very extensive documentation of the
challenges he faced and the modifications he had to make in
order to utilize his chosen constant speed prop with an
early Jabiru 3300. What is Jabiru's current position on
this matter and have modifications, changes to
specifications or other provisions been made in recent years
that address this issue.
A. I sympathize with, and applaud Bob Harrison for his tremendous efforts in
pioneering the fitment of the MT CS propeller. At the time, Jabiru were
making and supporting wood props (they still are) and the drive flange is
more-than-adequate for these prop types. Like MT, Airmaster provide their
own manufactured prop extension (where needed) and I don't see Jabiru
wanting to change this, at this stage. The advent of the 180hp 5.1 litre
engine, coupled with the rise in popularity of CS/VP props will influence
them to support these developments and I know of some development being
undertaken by Jabiru for their own composite ground adjustable (at this
stage) prop. Might come to nothing, but they are working on it.
Q. Lastly, inquiring minds are anxious for the
fuel-consumption update that you mentioned in an earlier
post. We need adequate and realistic fuel performance
details. Fuel usage in a Europa is a huge issue due to the
small tank size. Fuel capacity is only 18 U.S. gallons but
early Europa marketing materials diffused this issue by
discussing Kim Prout's 2.1 GPH economy-cruise experiences in
his 80 HP 912, and Dennis Vorheee's 200 MPH experiences with
his 914. A review of some of a list-member's postings
indicate Jabiru powered Europas will, based on his
experiences, only have a couple of hours of flight time. I
have saved emails from him reporting 7.08 (converted to U.S.
gallons) GPH at 125K and 6.12G GPH at economy cruise (110K).
(I believe his e-mails stated consumption in Imperial
gallons which I hope I have accurately converted to U.S.
gallons.) At his higher consumption rate, that works out to
only 2 hours and 34 minutes from which you have to subtract
a 30 to 45 minute reserve.
A. As I mentioned in a recent post, we've achieved a 20% (or so) improvement
in fuel consumption in our Jabiru 4 - place aircraft using an improved Bing
carburetor needle and associated jetting. However, I really can't predict
what the burn will be in the Europa, and our figures can only be
realistically compared with other Jabiru aircraft. Prop. choice is of
paramount importance, so we will need to measure this carefully with the
aircraft and propeller(s) we have available. At this stage, I'm confident
that the Europa's 18 US gallon tank will deliver over 3 safe hours of flight
with a late-model Jabiru engine.
Andy
Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc.
www.suncoastjabiru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | long range fuel tank |
And me too, Thanks Paul.
Kevin, kevann(at)gte.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale G. HetriG
Hetrick
Subject: Re: Europa-List: long range fuel tank
Paul,
Would you please send the same info to me?
Thanks,
Dale
gdale2(at)juno.com
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Europa glider pilots |
Bill
I took my 912S to 11,500 and was still climbing this past summer. It was
just me and a half tank of fuel (light). But on the trip to Oshkosh, full
of gas and luggage, Betty and I went to 10,500 going over the Rockies. It
climbed slow, but it was climbing.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
I did get to fly to Mt. St Helens. It was all steamed up !
At the risk of
> starting a my-Europa-flies-higher-than-yours thread, what have those
> lucky enough to have theirs flying found to be the ceiling for the
> 912/912S versions?
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Sample of Australian Jabiru Cowling |
All,
I have posted a photo of an Australian built Europa XS fitted with the
6cyl Jabiru engine and Jabiru cowl.
You can see it on the forum under 'Builders Album' but the following
link should take you straight to it.
Note: The link will more than likely have to be concatenated after
appearing on the list.
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/modules.php?set_albumName=Builders-Album&id=E
uropa_366&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
Regards
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Europa-USA Website |
Hi All,
Unfortunately I will no longer be able to keep the europa-usa website up.
If anyone is interested in taking it over it please let me know. I have the
address www.europa-usa.com plus the file.
Thanks
Bob Jacobsen
N201WH (sorry it's a Mooney)
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Copper State Fly-In |
| From: | "Dale G. HetriG Hetrick" <gdale2(at)juno.com> |
All
Is there a list of Europas that are going to Copperstate? Bob Lindsay
and I are planning on leaving Friday AM and back Saturday. Any
rendezvous point?
Thanks,
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Copper State Fly-In |
Hi Dave,
It'll be nice to see you again. It might be just as hot at the flyin as it
was the day you visited me in Redding. Want another hamburger?
Mike Duane
A207 XS Conventional gear
Redding, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk |
| Subject: | Classic stainless exhausts |
I am told by the manufacturer that Europa (2004) has a small stock of stainless
exhausts. Orders can be placed by individuals direct so there is no longer
any need for prospective customers to contact myself or the manufacturer.
Nigel Charles
Get Tiscali Broadband From 15:99
http://www.tiscali.co.uk/products/broadbandhome/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Weert" <tim.weert(at)hccnet.nl> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Hi Rowland,
Can you tell me more details about the refund by creditcardcompanies, I phoned
Mastercard to try to get the money I payed EMIL (10% deposit for my kit #604 &
Trailer) with my Mastercard back, but they told me "because it's more than one
month after receiving the cardreceipt, they cannot do anything for me".
Regards,
Tim.
Fortunately I found G-KITZ in an auction. She'll fly next year again unther a new
Dutch registration.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Tim,
These guys push back so often. The legal reality is that you buy your
purchase off the credit card company, and they buy it off the merchant (EMIL
in this case).
Therefore, if you dont get your goods, the credit card company have failed
to deliver, not EMIL.
Push back at them - they're just trying to fob you off to save themselves
some money. Dont feel sorry for them - they charge the merchant 4% to cover
these situations!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1200 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Weert
Subject:
Hi Rowland,
Can you tell me more details about the refund by creditcardcompanies, I
phoned Mastercard to try to get the money I payed EMIL (10% deposit for my
kit #604 & Trailer) with my Mastercard back, but they told me "because it's
more than one month after receiving the cardreceipt, they cannot do anything
for me".
Regards,
Tim.
Fortunately I found G-KITZ in an auction. She'll fly next year again unther
a new Dutch registration.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
This came in via PFA HQ, if anyone is interested in signing up to the
petition!
Regards,
Jeremy
Dear Penny,
More than 20,000 Britons are determined to see Concorde fly again and will
be taking this bid to the highest level - the people and the Prime Minister.
The Save Concorde group has organised a rally in London to save our Great
British aviation icon. Keen supporters and champions of the Concorde will
gather in Whitehall on Friday, October 22, 2004, at 1pm and march to Downing
Street to hand a petition to Prime Minister Tony Blair. Should you wish to
attend, please e-mail number10@save-concorde.co.uk
number10@save-concorde.co.uk> for further details.
The full agenda of the Friday's events, the magnitude of public backing and
national affection for Concorde is evident on our website,
www.save-concorde.co.uk <http://www.save-concorde.co.uk> - which we invite
you to view.
We invite everyone who cares about the pioneer technological achievements
that gave birth to the Anglo-French supersonic airliner of our era to
register their support and help to return Concorde to the skies over
Britain.
Thank you!
Regards,
Steve
www.save-concorde.co.uk <http://www.save-concorde.co.uk>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Beck" <n9zes(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Concorde |
I think they should give rides in the Concorde at Oshkosh every year at
Airventure. Ditch the Tri-Motor and fire up the afterburners!
Chris
A159 Mono
>
> This came in via PFA HQ, if anyone is interested in signing up to the
> petition!
>
> Regards,
> Jeremy
>
>
> Dear Penny,
>
> More than 20,000 Britons are determined to see Concorde fly again and
will
> be taking this bid to the highest level - the people and the Prime
Minister.
> The Save Concorde group has organised a rally in London to save our
Great
> British aviation icon. Keen supporters and champions of the Concorde
will
> gather in Whitehall on Friday, October 22, 2004, at 1pm and march to
Downing
> Street to hand a petition to Prime Minister Tony Blair. Should you
wish to
> attend, please e-mail number10@save-concorde.co.uk
> number10@save-concorde.co.uk> for further details.
>
> The full agenda of the Friday's events, the magnitude of public
backing and
> national affection for Concorde is evident on our website,
> www.save-concorde.co.uk <http://www.save-concorde.co.uk> - which we
invite
> you to view.
>
> We invite everyone who cares about the pioneer technological
achievements
> that gave birth to the Anglo-French supersonic airliner of our era to
> register their support and help to return Concorde to the skies over
> Britain.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Regards,
>
> Steve
> www.save-concorde.co.uk <http://www.save-concorde.co.uk>
>
>
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
> _-
========================================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vaughn Teegarden" <VRTEEGARDEN(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Credit card refund |
I too was out the 10% deposit on a complete airframe. I called Visa and told
them that I had placed a deposit on an airframe kit and had not recieved it.
I also told them that the company was in recievership, so there was no
chance that I was going to recieve it. I did not mention any dates to them,
only that delivery was promised in 3 months after placing the order. They
sent some forms for me to fill out so I could document whole thing. I
e'mailed Redman Nichols with copies of my reciept from EMIL and then printed
the e'mails out. I had also e'mailed John in Florida and cancelled my order
because they couldn't deliver. I also asked for my deposit back, even though
I knew that it was not possible. He e'mailed back that it was not possible.
I made copies of all these e'mails and other docoments and sent that to Visa
along with their completed form. About 30 to 45 days later that they were
issuing a credit to my account. I have recieved the Redman Nichols report in
which I am listed as loser, so I am saving that in case I need further
proof.
In other words, I applied the CYOA (cover your own ass) principle in every
way That I could think of and left as heavy a paper trail as I could.
Vaughn Teegarden
Thankful to have dodged that bullet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Weert" <tim.weert(at)hccnet.nl>
>
> Hi Rowland,
>
> Can you tell me more details about the refund by creditcardcompanies, I
phoned Mastercard to try to get the money I payed EMIL (10% deposit for my
kit #604 & Trailer) with my Mastercard back, but they told me "because it's
more than one month after receiving the cardreceipt, they cannot do anything
for me".
>
> Regards,
> Tim.
>
> Fortunately I found G-KITZ in an auction. She'll fly next year again
unther a new Dutch registration.
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 912S starting / Heavy duty starter |
Subject: Europa-List: 912S Starting
From: Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk>
Team, anyone not using a 912S (or planning to use a 912S) can delete this
now.
I have just returned from trailering my Europa from near Stansted to Shobdon
(yesterday) and back (today).
I took it to Adrian Lloyd who changed my sprag clutch (in situ) and replaced
the starter motor with the Heavy Duty one. It was whole load of hassle and
it cost me muchos but it had to be done. With the new starter it
whizzes round when I turn the key and starts straight away. It wasn't
starting at all before.
I think that most, if not ALL, 912Ss will need to have this done sooner or
later. Mine didn't start well all last winter and it reoccurred recently. My
engine has done just 100 hours !
I would say that it is essential for ANYONE ordering a 912S to insist on the
Heavy Duty starter. I believe it is only an extra 70 if bought with the
engine. Mine cost 300. (Anyone want a lightly used standard starter ???)
I also think that if you ever have the blade kick-back at start-up you will
sooner or later screw up your sprag clutch, so the onset of kick-back should
send you off to Rotax to buy the HD starter immediately.
I say this as a due warning - listen, discuss, but don't blame me if you
ignore me and need a sprag clutch replacement 2 years down the line.
In fact I really think that Rotax are at fault in the design of this engine
and that they should be liable for the replacement starters and the cost of
replacements and any damage caused by the weak starter. I rather think the
cost of such an admission by them will make the admission of liability
unlikely.>>>>>>>>
Hi Richard,
Thanks for the heads up regarding the heavy duty starter. I have 350 hours on my
engine at the moment and fortunately have never had any trouble with starting.
The engine spins over quite nicely and fires within a few blades whether it
is cold or hot. The battery is my original Odyssey PC 545 12AH battery which
I bought in Sept 1999 and first flight was in Dec 2001. I have taken note of Lockwood
Aviation's recommendation to inspect the clutch and replace the Belleville
spring washers after ~ 300 hours and that is one of my 'things to do'. At
one of their maintenace seminars, they explained that if the clutch springs/dogs
are worn, the engine and prop inertia combination can work against each other
to aggravate poor starting and kick back. My prop is very light (~ 9lbs) so
that may be why I do not have trouble. I change the plugs at the recommended
100 hours and I also reset the plug gaps at 50 hours since I find there is significant
wear.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, WhirlWind C/S prop
Mooresville, North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/7/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Could you explain what "E" glass tape is please?
>
> and yes I would like to see one or perhaps two photos to me off list.
>
> J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz working on adj seats after flaps in
> working condition.
>
Hi Bob,
"E" Glass is single weave with the fibers oriented at 90 degrees to each
other. When sandwiched with 'Bid it gives the part fibers which run at 45 and 90
degrees to each other. It's available in bolt sizing as well as tapes from ACS.
I bought a roll of 2" roll of the tape for experimentation purposes when I
made my center console cover. The edges are woven so they don't unravel. If you
wanted to beef up the edge of a part this is good stuff to do it with. I'll
send you some pics off list.
Not to be confused with "S" glass which is a single weave oriented at 45
degrees. Tape rolls of S glass are also available from ACS, although it's pricey.
I'm going to cover my seams on my wings and fuselage with S glass to keep the
seam from showing through or cracking the paint later on.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <N914RB(at)earthlink.net> |
Tim,
I couldn't agree more. I'm a merchant and do business with these guys
regularly. Even after you receive an item, you have up to 6 months to
dispute most purchases. If you didn't get the item, you card's purchase
protection policy (might find the policy on their web site) should cover
you. My 2 cents,
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Davey
Subject: Europa-List: RE:
Tim,
These guys push back so often. The legal reality is that you buy your
purchase off the credit card company, and they buy it off the merchant (EMIL
in this case).
Therefore, if you dont get your goods, the credit card company have failed
to deliver, not EMIL.
Push back at them - they're just trying to fob you off to save themselves
some money. Dont feel sorry for them - they charge the merchant 4% to cover
these situations!
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1200 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Weert
Subject:
Hi Rowland,
Can you tell me more details about the refund by creditcardcompanies, I
phoned Mastercard to try to get the money I payed EMIL (10% deposit for my
kit #604 & Trailer) with my Mastercard back, but they told me "because it's
more than one month after receiving the cardreceipt, they cannot do anything
for me".
Regards,
Tim.
Fortunately I found G-KITZ in an auction. She'll fly next year again unther
a new Dutch registration.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Cheers,
I'm long out of the BIG stuff, but it seemed to me that modern
designers must demonstrate a landing ot two with the pitch trim set at limts
either way and the driver has to show competence in both. If I am wrong,
shatter my tender confidence.
If I am right, maybe Don Dykins already did this - as I know I've
had to demonstrate it - just can't remember where. Maybe Old Bob knows.
Anyway, any thoughts on this? Mueller? Anyone?
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "percyville" <percyville(at)percyville.plus.com> |
Concorde rides at Oshkosh! I think not!!
If it wasn't for the paranoia of the American public, accentuated by the
American government being firmly under the sponsorship of the American
airline manufacturers of the day, Concorde would have been a viable
project and flying in mass numbers today.
Why is the American philosophy always to employ dirty tricks to ensure
the perception of American supremacy, the most common being the
withholding of IMF funding if we proceed with a project which surpasses
US capability?
But what really grieves me is to see the majority of retired Concorde's
have ended up being given to American Museums!!
Surely they should have been sold (just as Concordski was!) and the
proceeds held to either keep an example airworthy or sponsoring a
British Aviation research and development!!
Dare I state TSR2... well most of it's here:
http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/tsr2/history.html
Doesn't mention how the design of TSR2 was initially stolen under the
mask of a pre-sales visit, which hence formed the basis of the F111
project.
Pity they don't air the 'project cancelled' series on the US version of
Discovery Wings.
The ability of British Aviation R&D at the time: the Americans couldn't
successfully make a copy of TSR2, likewise the Russians were unable to
successfully clone Concorde and TSR2 was superior to Tornado 15 years
before it flew...
It was viewing TSR2 at the age of 11 on a school science trip to the
museum at RAF Cosford that started my love affair with aviation....
Looked so space age with the gold tinted canopy, photography doesn't do
it justice!!
Paul
#558
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Beck
Subject: Re: Europa-List: FW: Concorde
I think they should give rides in the Concorde at Oshkosh every year at
Airventure. Ditch the Tri-Motor and fire up the afterburners!
Chris
A159 Mono
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)btclick.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E glass tape |
Actually John, the difference between E glass and S glass has nothing to
do with the weave style.
E stands for "Electrical" grade and has a glass filament offering good
tensile and compressive strength but relatively poor impact strength.
This is the type most commonly used for homebuilds and marine
applications - and is the glass supplied by Europa.
"S" Glass was originally developed in the 1950s with a different
chemical composition and a filament diameter about half that of "E"
glass - giving a far greater wetted area.
This results in improved interlaminar, compressive and tensile strength
for a similar density. It is a much stronger reinforcement, approaching
that of carbon fibre, but the down side is it costs more (over double).
"In Europe, a third composition is available - "R" Glass. This is almost
identical to the "S" glass available in the US.
"E" glass is more vulnerable to attack by moisture than either "S" or
"R" and for this reason the latter is usually specified for highly
stressed and competition marine applications.
All these materials can be woven into virtually any style and sized to
suit the intended resin system, either polyester or epoxy. If ordering
new glass cloth - check that it is sized for epoxy.
Hope this helps
Nigel
----- Original Message -----
From: <TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: E glass tape
In a message dated 10/7/2004 2:59:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Could you explain what "E" glass tape is please?
>
> and yes I would like to see one or perhaps two photos to me off list.
>
> J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz working on adj seats after flaps in
> working condition.
>
Hi Bob,
"E" Glass is single weave with the fibers oriented at 90 degrees to each
other. When sandwiched with 'Bid it gives the part fibers which run at
45 and 90
degrees to each other. It's available in bolt sizing as well as tapes
from ACS.
I bought a roll of 2" roll of the tape for experimentation purposes when
I
made my center console cover. The edges are woven so they don't unravel.
If you
wanted to beef up the edge of a part this is good stuff to do it with.
I'll
send you some pics off list.
Not to be confused with "S" glass which is a single weave oriented at 45
degrees. Tape rolls of S glass are also available from ACS, although
it's pricey.
I'm going to cover my seams on my wings and fuselage with S glass to
keep the
seam from showing through or cracking the paint later on.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
, Tim Ward
I measured the starters today.
If the starter is on the engine look for the two (three) nuts that secure it
at the front.
Rearwards from there are there two housings (one is the crankcase (?) and
the other is part of the housing that covers the camshaft drive cogs AND the
sprag clutch !) They are 11 and 15 mm deep.
The standard starter is 110 mm long
The HD starter has three sections, 15, 92 and 28 mm long making it 135 mm
long in total - about an inch longer than the standard starter (sh*t - where
did those imperial units come from !)
These measurements do not include the length of the mounting studs.
The following bit is, I think, right, but I am a little hazy in recollection
!
The standard starter is black. The HD is a mixture of colours (or colors !)
HTH
It started fine today and, after putting on the wings I launched into the
blue sky. Yeee-haaaaaaa ! [Actually I put the wings on first, then started
it, and then launched ... :-) ]
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder(at)avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Davidghillam(at)aol.com |
My Bendix/King Skymap II is built into the panel. It works perfectly (I
think) until the radio is switched on, then gives the message "No fix possible".
The 'Status' screen then shows no signal from the satellites.
Because the panel/electrics are the only parts of the plane I did not build
myself, I am not sure of the aerial position, but I believe it is adjacent to
or on top of the radio stack. People who know more about these things than
I say that shouldn't be a problem, but I am not so sure.
I was thinking of removing the panel (not my favourite way of spending the
day) and moving the aerial to another location but before I do that does anyone
have any other suggestions for the cause of the problem, (eg wiring fault)
or any other investigations that I should do while it is out?
Thanks in advance.
David Hillam
G-SHSH
Classic 912
30 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Craig
I am sending my reply out to the whole list because it is of general
interest.
I call Dynon again today. This time regarding the engine monoter. I ask if
they would be able to read the RPM to 6K. The reply was that it will go to
7000. Good !!!
The temperature probe that are being specked are for the Lycoming and
Continental. But other probes are available. The "official" position is
that first they will not be advising for the Rotax engine. Rotax support
will be announced after the engine monitor gets released. Unofficially he
said that there is no design reason that it will not work on the Rotax.
Good !!!!
I can see a real good panel with one Dynon in front of each seat of the
airplane. Then switch the displays back and forth depending on who is PIC.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
>I've been attempting to lay out my panel now while waiting for the FWF kit
>to come >available again. They should be shipping it again in the next few
>weeks so I can get >started on the engine install. So realistically it
>might be some time before I actually neet it >in. If I was sure about it I
>would just plan for the 3" hole and go on.
>
>craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
Hi David,
We have the Skymap IIIC, and had our antenna located at the top of the
instrument panel, above the radio equipment. During the build phase I
tested the GPS to make sure the antenna was happy looking up thru the
top of the panel, and it was.
During the test phase the GPS operation was intermittent, with marginal
reception (weak signal strength). We moved the antenna, first just
sitting on top of the panel, where it still had problems (even with the
radio/xponder off). We finally relocated the GPS antenna into the
overhead console area, where it has been fine since. Note that it is
still inside the cockpit, looking up thru the top of the fuselage. For
some reason it does not like being located just above the contents of
the instrument panel (worked fine when there was nothing else in the panel).
regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
Davidghillam(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>My Bendix/King Skymap II is built into the panel. It works perfectly (I
>think) until the radio is switched on, then gives the message "No fix possible".
>The 'Status' screen then shows no signal from the satellites.
>
>Because the panel/electrics are the only parts of the plane I did not build
>myself, I am not sure of the aerial position, but I believe it is adjacent to
>or on top of the radio stack. People who know more about these things than
>I say that shouldn't be a problem, but I am not so sure.
>
>I was thinking of removing the panel (not my favourite way of spending the
>day) and moving the aerial to another location but before I do that does anyone
> have any other suggestions for the cause of the problem, (eg wiring fault)
>or any other investigations that I should do while it is out?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>David Hillam
>G-SHSH
>Classic 912
>30 hours
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJGeldermann" <djgeldermann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Concorde |
Paul,
Hey, I think the Concord is really cool, and I've seen it recently in a US
museum, but "dirty tricks?" Get real, sorry, its economics. Why pay $2,000
US for a 2 hour transatlantic trip, when you can get there for $600 in 5
hours? Are 3 hours worth almost $500 per hour of your average person's
time? (I'm guessing at exact amounts, but the scale is close.) I wish my
time was worth that, maybe someday.
Dan
A-139
----- Original Message -----
From: "percyville" <percyville(at)percyville.plus.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: FW: Concorde
>
> Concorde rides at Oshkosh! I think not!!
>
> If it wasn't for the paranoia of the American public, accentuated by the
> American government being firmly under the sponsorship of the American
> airline manufacturers of the day, Concorde would have been a viable
> project and flying in mass numbers today.
>
> Why is the American philosophy always to employ dirty tricks to ensure
> the perception of American supremacy, the most common being the
> withholding of IMF funding if we proceed with a project which surpasses
> US capability?
>
> But what really grieves me is to see the majority of retired Concorde's
> have ended up being given to American Museums!!
> Surely they should have been sold (just as Concordski was!) and the
> proceeds held to either keep an example airworthy or sponsoring a
> British Aviation research and development!!
>
> Dare I state TSR2... well most of it's here:
> http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/tsr2/history.html
> Doesn't mention how the design of TSR2 was initially stolen under the
> mask of a pre-sales visit, which hence formed the basis of the F111
> project.
> Pity they don't air the 'project cancelled' series on the US version of
> Discovery Wings.
>
> The ability of British Aviation R&D at the time: the Americans couldn't
> successfully make a copy of TSR2, likewise the Russians were unable to
> successfully clone Concorde and TSR2 was superior to Tornado 15 years
> before it flew...
>
> It was viewing TSR2 at the age of 11 on a school science trip to the
> museum at RAF Cosford that started my love affair with aviation....
> Looked so space age with the gold tinted canopy, photography doesn't do
> it justice!!
>
> Paul
> #558
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Beck
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com; europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: FW: Concorde
>
>
> I think they should give rides in the Concorde at Oshkosh every year at
> Airventure. Ditch the Tri-Motor and fire up the afterburners!
>
> Chris
> A159 Mono
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
Hi David,
I had exactly the same problem, but not quite so bad as yours. I was
advised to move the aerial well away from the avionics, so I mounted it
between the doors under the overhead panel and it solved the problem
immediately.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: <Davidghillam(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: GPS problem
>
> My Bendix/King Skymap II is built into the panel. It works perfectly (I
> think) until the radio is switched on, then gives the message "No fix
possible".
> The 'Status' screen then shows no signal from the satellites.
>
> Because the panel/electrics are the only parts of the plane I did not
build
> myself, I am not sure of the aerial position, but I believe it is
adjacent to
> or on top of the radio stack. People who know more about these things
than
> I say that shouldn't be a problem, but I am not so sure.
>
> I was thinking of removing the panel (not my favourite way of spending the
> day) and moving the aerial to another location but before I do that does
anyone
> have any other suggestions for the cause of the problem, (eg wiring
fault)
> or any other investigations that I should do while it is out?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> David Hillam
> G-SHSH
> Classic 912
> 30 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <danbish(at)norwalktucson.com> |
Wondering if anyone out there who's installed the LTS fuel sender (mod 60)
has any comments on placement. The mod says to put it in the port headrest
storage area but it seems I've seen photos of some the were installed
outside that area a couple of inches inboard from there. It'd be nice to
have it out of the way in the headrest but that looks like it'd block using
it for storage, though it would hide the 'hump' that'll be caused by the
sender.
Also, I can't find anything in A/S about the nut ring or the NAS1473-A3
sealed anchor nuts mentioned on Page 4 of the mod instructions. Since I
didn't get the kit from Europa, it didn't come with all of the necessary
bits and pieces for a Europa I guess. It also mentions a 'alloy split ring'
on page 3 but I haven't a clue what that's all about.
Anyway, in the dark as usual so if someone's gone before me on this one and
can point me to a photo or two, it'd be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
A144 - N914RB
Tucson, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <danbish(at)norwalktucson.com> |
Oh yeah, should have mentioned that the CM is installed already, so that'll
figure into the equation.
Thanks,
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
I have the KMD150 as well and have the aerial just above it on top of
the instrument panel. Mine has worked fine without any interference. I
think it highly likely that the interference suffered is due to the way
the panel has been wired. When the distances between sensitive equipment
are small the layout and screening of the wires are critical to avoid
problems. In my case the radio is separated from the GPS by the uMonitor
which probably helps to reduce interference.
Relocating the aerial is probably the easiest and quickest way to
overcome the problem in this case. However for those still building,
provided that the wiring is done carefully and the radio is not
immediately adjacent to the GPS, the aerial can be placed on top of the
panel. This has the advantage of reduced wiring length and is one less
connection between the panel and airframe.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Dan, with the CM already in, if you want to put the unit in the headrest your going
to have to drill a large diameter hole in the head rest and the installed
wood plate. If you go to the side of the head rest your going to have to put
in some reinforcing lay ups.
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/album21
Cap. fuel gauge install.
also NAS1473-A3:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=2381/
From looking at mod 60 I would guess that the spit ring is a "O" with a slit in
it from inside to outside. This would let you push one end of the ring into the
tank, then turning the ring wild allow the ring to screw it self into the tank.
Putting a large diameter ring thru a smaller hole.
Chat Later,
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Hmmmm.... looking at my CM you might be able to get the sender in without going
thru the top of the head rest but it looks tight....
Steved.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 10/07/04 |
>Actually John, the difference between E glass and S glass has nothing to
>do with the weave style.
>E stands for "Electrical" grade and has a glass filament offering good
>tensile and compressive strength but relatively poor impact strength.
>This is the type most commonly used for homebuilds and marine
>applications - and is the glass supplied by Europa.
>"S" Glass was originally developed in the 1950s with a different
>chemical composition and a filament diameter about half that of "E"
>glass - giving a far greater wetted area.
agreed Nigel,
My main spar caps on the Long EZ are S glass, as is the undercarriage bow.
Thats the only application I know of.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Concorde |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Mike
> I have just read eight emails that covered the Concorde, US tyranny, the
> British government's heavy handed tactics dealing with their demonstrating
> people, and the cost of flying from GB to the US. Not once was Europa
> mentioned! Now where are the people that complained about a Europa builder
> gathering information about an alternative engine for his Europa that his
> topic should not be on this forum because it is a Europa forum? Hardly a
> word.........
Mike
You are right. Andy had every right to talk openly about Jabiru alternatives
and in fact it was the most factual overview on any subject for a long time.
One or two complained. That's their right too.
The political outbursts were in the most party light hearted (well mine was
meant to be) and coincided with the annual Conference of each of our
Political parties.
Tongue in cheek.......
Concorde is an aircraft, Politics affects our ability to own or operate an
Aircraft, especially in Europe and most people here and about have taken
advantage of the enlightened costs of components in the USA and returned
them back here unseen via Atlantic flights.
On a more serious note. Many of your trends in the USA arrive here in UK
about 5 to 10 years later, Good or bad. The one that hasn't is the more open
attitude towards Homebuilt Aircraft building. Add to that a real threat from
Euro-Control that will make flying even more expensive through navigation
charges and Mode S TPx and politics does have a place here sometimes on the
forum.
In an effort to stay on the Forum ........ EUROPA. Nice Aircraft!
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Ellison" <craig.ellison2(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor |
Thanks Cliff, that is good news! I was thinking of stacking them in front
of the left seat because I'm using the stock instrument panel.
craig ellison
silverton OR
picking up stabs and flaps from the painter today
waiting for FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Engine Monitor
>
> Craig
>
> I am sending my reply out to the whole list because it is of general
> interest.
>
> I call Dynon again today. This time regarding the engine monoter. I ask
if
> they would be able to read the RPM to 6K. The reply was that it will go
to
> 7000. Good !!!
>
> The temperature probe that are being specked are for the Lycoming and
> Continental. But other probes are available. The "official" position is
> that first they will not be advising for the Rotax engine. Rotax support
> will be announced after the engine monitor gets released. Unofficially he
> said that there is no design reason that it will not work on the Rotax.
> Good !!!!
>
> I can see a real good panel with one Dynon in front of each seat of the
> airplane. Then switch the displays back and forth depending on who is PIC.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
>
> >I've been attempting to lay out my panel now while waiting for the FWF
kit
> >to come >available again. They should be shipping it again in the next
few
> >weeks so I can get >started on the engine install. So realistically it
> >might be some time before I actually neet it >in. If I was sure about it
I
> >would just plan for the 3" hole and go on.
> >
> >craig
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Service ceiling / 912S |
From: "Bill and Sue" <billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Europa glider pilots
----------------- At the risk of starting a my-Europa-flies-higher-than-yours thread,
what have those lucky enough to have theirs flying found to be the ceiling
for the 912/912S versions?
Bill >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi Bill,
I am not sure if you were looking for motor glider data but I have pasted in below
the entry from the aircraft logbook of my standard wing XS with a 912S when
I did a service ceiling check during my 40 hour test phase. As you can see,
I still had 200 + fpm at 16,000 ft and I estimate the true service ceiling at
100 fpm would be somewhere around 18,000 ft. I chose not to go any higher since
it was a bit chilly up there and I had proved my point to see how I would get
on in the Rockies. The gross was close to max with lead ballast for the passenger
and baggage, and the surface temperature was a little cooler than a 'standard'
day. I borrowed some oxygen gear for the flight. This flight was before
I added the fuel flow/totaliser option to my EIS so I do not have any good fuel
consumption data.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, WhirlWind 2 blade C/S prop
Mooresville, North Carolina
*******
Feb. 18, 2002 Hobbs time 43.2/44.5 1.3h flight time.
Service Ceiling Check. OAT= 12 degC, Baro = 30.29, Dens alt. = 392 ft. (Field height
= 965 ft) Filled 5 gallons 100 LL from can. Unsure if tank filled completely
to top, but close. Est T.O. weight = 1312 lbs. C of G at 60.61. Fuel = 7/8
& F. Start at 3.21pm. T.O. at 3.36, Hobbs = 43.4. 5800 then 5500 rpm after
gear up at 1200 ft., full throttle. Climb speed = 70 to 75 kts.
>From 2000 to 3000ft, R.O.C. = 950 fpm.
5,000 ft, 3m55s, OAT = 5degC, 70 kts, oil temp 119 degC R.O.C 790 fpm,. Dens
alt 3820 ft.
10,000 ft, 12m21s, OAT -1degC, 75 kts, oil temp 115 degC, R.O.C 500 fpm. Dens
alt 9282 ft.
16,000 ft, 30m55s, OAT 10 degC, 73 kts, oil temp 102 degC, R.O.C. 220 fpm. Dens
alt 15,617 ft.
Climb discontinued at 16,000 ft. Returned to KSVH. 1 landing. Stop at 4.42. Fuel
= & F.
*******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hello Dan
I am not sure if Mod 60 with a LTS is what I installed, but it was the Europa
Mod, i purchased from europa with a float style sender and came with a VDO
gauge.
Anyway I installed it in a accelerated CPM. The way i did it was to install it
aft of the recommended location to avoid sitting on the seam of the tank. I
moved it sideways a bit as well to get to a flatter part of the tank as well. I
positioned so I could access the phillips screws with a screwdriver with a 30
or 40 degree offset, it is the type with gears so you turn handle and the tip
turns and stays at the offset. Could really not assemble in the position i
chose without that screwdriver. I had to work through the headrest hole, very
tight, but 1/32 inch extra clearance or 32 feet upon assemble does not matter,
you just need clearance.
The way you install it is to make a hole in tank. Then there is 2 rubber
gaskets that fit 1 on the outside and 1 on the inside of the tank. They supply
a aluminium ring, probably 1/8 thick and the width of the gaskets, perhaps just
a tad wider. Then you rivet the nut plates to the aluminium rings. Using flush
rivets. The nut plates have an o ring and a acorn style cover over the bottom.
This seals them to the aluminium, since the bottom is sealed no vapor can get
in.. thus no vapor can pass through threads and into the cockpit. you were
supposed to split the aluminium and somehow screw it into the tank like you
would a wire wound key ring. Hint from Neville was to cut the aluminium into 2
pieces, one with 3 nut plates, and 1 with 2 nut plates. that is what i did. i
made the mistake of trying to use some EZ Lube grease to get the rubber and
aluminium stuck. I think the name is EZ Lube, maybe EZ Turn. anyway it is a
real real thick grease for sealing threads and lubricating anything that lives
in petro. Mistake, although it worked well to position parts, it allowed the
O-ring to squeeze out sideways.
My CPM was out when installing, so i turned things upside down. It would be a
lot harder if you need to work right side up. If you can figure how to turn
what you have upside down with less than an hour of work, you will save
yourself a lot of hassle.
Since it is such a pain to position stuff, the second time around i made
gaskets from automotive fuel pump diaphragm material, it has a reinforcing in
it to make it more dimensional stable. I used 2 thickness which are the same
thickness as 1 of the original. I used some automotive weather stripping
contact glue thinned with MEK to hold and position stuff. worked great. local
aeroplane guys use it in fuel environment applications with good success.
If you cant find any of those sealed nut plates (call the factory) I would look
hard at machining a wider counter bore on the top face of the sender, then
machine or purchase some screws with wide and flat bottom and cut a gasket out
of 1 thickness of the diaphragm material. You would use a standard nut plate, i
would use the nut plates that are crimped, not elastic nylon. Also run a tap a
little ways into the nut plate to reduce some of the torque needed to tighten.
do this before you rivet in place, it takes a knack to get it where you want
it. BTW this works in other areas of europa, no need to bust your hands and
replace hardware on an inspection cover, just tap it till you reduce friction
where it is easy enough to turn and should not back out.
There ya go.
Ron Parigoris
A-265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian M <ian.mansfeld(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
my skymap aerial is in the same place, with no problems. The antenna can
see through the panel & the glazing & body with no attenuation. GPS can
be affected by VHF radio nearby, so try with & without the radio
swiitched on. If it is the radio, you need an in-line notch filter
(Garmin do them, maybe via AFE at Oxford?).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: 912S starters |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
I installed the new starter for the 912S, heres some photos..
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2947#2947
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
Ian M wrote:
> my skymap aerial is in the same place, with no problems. The antenna
> can see through the panel & the glazing & body with no attenuation.
> GPS can be affected by VHF radio nearby, so try with & without the
> radio switched on. If it is the radio, you need an in-line notch
filter
> (Garmin do them, maybe via AFE at Oxford?).
>
I can't see how a notch filter will solve the OP's problem, as this
item is to trap harmonics while transmitting and only needed on
certain oddball (in U.S.at least ) frequencies at that. As Nigel has
pointed out, interference from a noise source in the panel is a likely
suspect, but this type of noise weakens with the cube of the distance
from the source, so it needn't necessarily be moved much. If it
occurs when a comm is merely turned on, and it has a switching
regulator, that's a robust noise source. I'd first try moving the
antenna temporarily to various other places in the panel, even in the
area of the right-side shelf. Moving it to the top of the fuselage
will mean quite a few more feet of coax, for up to maybe 40% loss in
signal strength, so that even a compromised location somewhere in the
panel, like inside but underneath the shelf, can be acceptable.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
40% ?????
My GPS antenna is not just an antenna. It is a receiver. The signal on the
wire coming out of it is data, not RF.
This equipment now days is pretty much all digital. My bet is that the
"noise" of the com is effecting the receiver of the GPS antenna. Fix it by
moving the antenna receiver mogul. That is the easy way and put it up out
of the way in the overhead.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: GPS problem
|
| Ian M wrote:
| > my skymap aerial is in the same place, with no problems. The antenna
| > can see through the panel & the glazing & body with no attenuation.
| > GPS can be affected by VHF radio nearby, so try with & without the
| > radio switched on. If it is the radio, you need an in-line notch
| filter
| > (Garmin do them, maybe via AFE at Oxford?).
| >
|
| I can't see how a notch filter will solve the OP's problem, as this
| item is to trap harmonics while transmitting and only needed on
| certain oddball (in U.S.at least ) frequencies at that. As Nigel has
| pointed out, interference from a noise source in the panel is a likely
| suspect, but this type of noise weakens with the cube of the distance
| from the source, so it needn't necessarily be moved much. If it
| occurs when a comm is merely turned on, and it has a switching
| regulator, that's a robust noise source. I'd first try moving the
| antenna temporarily to various other places in the panel, even in the
| area of the right-side shelf. Moving it to the top of the fuselage
| will mean quite a few more feet of coax, for up to maybe 40% loss in
| signal strength, so that even a compromised location somewhere in the
| panel, like inside but underneath the shelf, can be acceptable.
|
| Reg,
| Fred F.
Cheers,
I agree with Fred. Funnily enough I just read an email about a month
ago where one of us had put his antenna on the starboard footwell ceiling in
the engine room.......... I think he said it worked well, but then there's
agreat big metal thing in there. Might be worth trying.
Does your wayward GPS box accept another antenna, perhaps an active
one? The alternate test is a good one.
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Cheers,
I just gooped the rudder bars which infringe upon the firewall
sides. I made overlapping plates either side and gooped the whole opening
with a McMaster-Carr offering of "Grace Flamesafe FS-1900 Sealant" - an
intumescent, elastomeric Firestop". I put the firepot to a copy of the
materials to see, and it kept the flames at bay for at least 15 minutes -
and it's good for one year.
tech assistance at 866-333-3726 or see at www.graceconstruction.com
Ferg
A064
www.mcmaster.com - start with page 1683, or search for fire stop compounds
I'm hoping it won't intumesce all over my golf shoes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Concorde |
Gerry,
Well, put. I guess that mine was more aimed at those that try to quell
discussion, rather than an open discussion in a wider range.
I am presently at CopperState here in Arizona and am starting to hear some
bad noise about aspects of European views on flying migrating here to the US.
Namely, privatizing many aspects of the FAA and FSS system. That would lead to
fees and charges for all the Wx info, Flight planning, etc. that are now paid
for with our taxes.
Mike Duane
A207 XS Conventional gear
Redding, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Epibond 420, not exact same as Redux |
Just mixed up some of our new shipment of Epibond 420. The yellow slime seems bout
the same as redux, but the other is much more blue. Once mixed it is more blue,
where Redux is more green.
As far as shelf life, it is dated 6 months from MFG. Ship Date. Mine goes south
in
4 months, you see the place i purchased from, had it a little longer than a month.
i specific questioned sales rep and they go through a lot and it is very fresh.
Anyone test how it works after expiration date?
I know if stored properly redux can work fine for a year or more after its 2 year
expiration date.
Ron Parigoris
A-265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike toft" <watervet(at)mweb.co.za> |
Hi
I had to install the fuel sender long after completing the fuselage. What we did
was to drill a pilot hole through the top of the head rest, made up a spindle
to thread through the hole, then attached the correct size rotary cutter made
from a small piece of solid square metal bar with a adjustable cutter(piece
of hack saw blade works), now you can cut through the top of the cockpit module
easily - then follow the instructions for cutting into the tank with a hot soldering
iron - this leaves a rough uneven fit - so using double sided tape stick
a larger than the hole plastic bag to the side of the tank - this will catch
the swarf as you clean up the edges - then follow the rest of the instructions.
I used fishing line as safety device in case I dropped the gasket or nut
plate whilst inserting them into the tank - 'cause trying to retrieve a dropped
piece from the bottom is not a lot of fun -I know believe me.
Mike Toft
ZU CTG Trigear 914 Airmaster 80 Hours and still loving it
Been to the Kalahari Desert and Okavango Swamps 20 hours of phenomenal flying!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/8/2004 2:59:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Actually John, the difference between E glass and S glass has nothing to
> do with the weave style.
> E stands for "Electrical" grade and has a glass filament offering good
> tensile and compressive strength but relatively poor impact strength.
> This is the type most commonly used for homebuilds and marine
> applications - and is the glass supplied by Europa.
> "S" Glass was originally developed in the 1950s with a different
> chemical composition and a filament diameter about half that of "E"
> glass - giving a far greater wetted area.
> This results in improved interlaminar, compressive and tensile strength
> for a similar density. It is a much stronger reinforcement, approaching
> that of carbon fibre, but the down side is it costs more (over double).
> "In Europe, a third composition is available - "R" Glass. This is almost
> identical to the "S" glass available in the US.
> "E" glass is more vulnerable to attack by moisture than either "S" or
> "R" and for this reason the latter is usually specified for highly
> stressed and competition marine applications.
>
> All these materials can be woven into virtually any style and sized to
> suit the intended resin system, either polyester or epoxy. If ordering
> new glass cloth - check that it is sized for epoxy.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Nigel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Concorde |
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly(at)aol.com>
Subject: : FW: Concorde
| Gerry,|
| Well, put. I guess that mine was more aimed at those that try to quell
| discussion, rather than an open discussion in a wider range.|
| I am presently at CopperState here in Arizona and am starting to hear some
| bad noise about aspects of European views on flying migrating here to the
US.
| Namely, privatizing many aspects of the FAA and FSS system. That would
lead to fees and charges for all the Wx info, Flight planning, etc. that are
now paid
| for with our taxes.|
| Mike Duane
| A207 XS Conventional gear
Quite right! .......and beware! The scum who dictate givvermint policy
hre said they were ridding us of unneeded civservs in the federable air
works. What they did was sell what our taxes had paid for, at a billion or
so, to the redundant civservs (in essence), never changed the taxes, but
began to charge for filing plans, 'centralising' radio services, and landing
fees at (my) federal fields if you entered the fed building (where my
federal urinal is). The landing fees at "private" (another story) airports
began charging and the rip-off soared in earnest. On border entry, the
Customs folk were so ashamed, they came out to the aircraft so we wouldn't
have to enter a fedifice.
Now, having mixed fed policing with dial-a-cop air traffic
operators, I expect there's a bonus for any bod who manages to charge an
aviator with a 'apprehended' misdemeanour. try and move that through the
courts! Sort of a traffic ticket bounty........
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | E-glass vs. S-glass |
LINK_TO_NO_SCHEME(at)matronics.com, BODY:, Contains(at)matronics.com,
link@matronics.com, without@matronics.com, http://@matronics.com,
prefix(at)matronics.com
In a message dated 10/8/2004 2:59:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
europa-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Actually John, the difference between E glass and S glass has nothing to
> do with the weave style.
> E stands for "Electrical" grade and has a glass filament offering good
> tensile and compressive strength but relatively poor impact strength.
> This is the type most commonly used for homebuilds and marine
> applications - and is the glass supplied by Europa.
> "S" Glass was originally developed in the 1950s with a different
> chemical composition and a filament diameter about half that of "E"
> glass - giving a far greater wetted area.
> This results in improved interlaminar, compressive and tensile strength
> for a similar density. It is a much stronger reinforcement, approaching
> that of carbon fibre, but the down side is it costs more (over double).
> "In Europe, a third composition is available - "R" Glass. This is almost
> identical to the "S" glass available in the US.
> "E" glass is more vulnerable to attack by moisture than either "S" or
> "R" and for this reason the latter is usually specified for highly
> stressed and competition marine applications.
>
> All these materials can be woven into virtually any style and sized to
> suit the intended resin system, either polyester or epoxy. If ordering
> new glass cloth - check that it is sized for epoxy.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Nigel
>
Hi Nigel,
Thanks for your input and obvious vast knowledge on the subject. Perhaps what
I should have said is the "E" glass I used is a standard weave, 8.7 oz. cloth
tape with woven edges and is as well suited to the Aeropoxy resin that I'm
using, as is the bid used. Rereading what I wrote does make it appear that I was
saying the the only difference between "E" glass and "S" glass was the weave
alone. Obviously, this isn't the case and I know better. I'll plead "BC" for
my mistake, that is before coffee.....
FWIW, I've found an excellent book called Composite Basics by Andrew C.
Marshal which goes into great detail about weaves, fibers, resins, core materials,
molding techniques, tooling, post curing, vacuum bagging techniques, etc. It's
not exactly what I would call "light reading", but it does seem to have
everything you ever wanted to know about composites and then some. In it's fifth
printing, it's up to date and is an excellent reference for those who want to
know more than the "Europa College" teaches. It's available from the Composite
Store online at www.cstsales.com, item #L105 but might also be available
elsewhere. I believe it is well worth the $35 spent and I highly recommend it if
you
want to know more about composites.
Sorry for the double post. Again, I plead BC.....
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Back to the tailpost whilst I wait on the delivery of a 5/8" hole saw
for fitting my door latches)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <N914RB(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the reply and yes, you installed the same thing I'm installing.
Any chance you have some photos of what you did and how it came out? Thanks,
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel Sender
Hello Dan
I am not sure if Mod 60 with a LTS is what I installed, but it was the
Europa
Mod, i purchased from europa with a float style sender and came with a VDO
gauge.
Anyway I installed it in a accelerated CPM. The way i did it was to install
it
aft of the recommended location to avoid sitting on the seam of the tank. I
moved it sideways a bit as well to get to a flatter part of the tank as
well. I
positioned so I could access the phillips screws with a screwdriver with a
30
or 40 degree offset, it is the type with gears so you turn handle and the
tip
turns and stays at the offset. Could really not assemble in the position i
chose without that screwdriver. I had to work through the headrest hole,
very
tight, but 1/32 inch extra clearance or 32 feet upon assemble does not
matter,
you just need clearance.
The way you install it is to make a hole in tank. Then there is 2 rubber
gaskets that fit 1 on the outside and 1 on the inside of the tank. They
supply
a aluminium ring, probably 1/8 thick and the width of the gaskets, perhaps
just
a tad wider. Then you rivet the nut plates to the aluminium rings. Using
flush
rivets. The nut plates have an o ring and a acorn style cover over the
bottom.
This seals them to the aluminium, since the bottom is sealed no vapor can
get
in.. thus no vapor can pass through threads and into the cockpit. you were
supposed to split the aluminium and somehow screw it into the tank like you
would a wire wound key ring. Hint from Neville was to cut the aluminium into
2
pieces, one with 3 nut plates, and 1 with 2 nut plates. that is what i did.
i
made the mistake of trying to use some EZ Lube grease to get the rubber and
aluminium stuck. I think the name is EZ Lube, maybe EZ Turn. anyway it is a
real real thick grease for sealing threads and lubricating anything that
lives
in petro. Mistake, although it worked well to position parts, it allowed the
O-ring to squeeze out sideways.
My CPM was out when installing, so i turned things upside down. It would be
a
lot harder if you need to work right side up. If you can figure how to turn
what you have upside down with less than an hour of work, you will save
yourself a lot of hassle.
Since it is such a pain to position stuff, the second time around i made
gaskets from automotive fuel pump diaphragm material, it has a reinforcing
in
it to make it more dimensional stable. I used 2 thickness which are the same
thickness as 1 of the original. I used some automotive weather stripping
contact glue thinned with MEK to hold and position stuff. worked great.
local
aeroplane guys use it in fuel environment applications with good success.
If you cant find any of those sealed nut plates (call the factory) I would
look
hard at machining a wider counter bore on the top face of the sender, then
machine or purchase some screws with wide and flat bottom and cut a gasket
out
of 1 thickness of the diaphragm material. You would use a standard nut
plate, i
would use the nut plates that are crimped, not elastic nylon. Also run a tap
a
little ways into the nut plate to reduce some of the torque needed to
tighten.
do this before you rivet in place, it takes a knack to get it where you want
it. BTW this works in other areas of europa, no need to bust your hands and
replace hardware on an inspection cover, just tap it till you reduce
friction
where it is easy enough to turn and should not back out.
There ya go.
Ron Parigoris
A-265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <N914RB(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the reply. Any chance you have some photos of what you did and
how it came out?
Thanks,
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike toft
Subject: Europa-List: Re Fuel Sender
Hi
I had to install the fuel sender long after completing the fuselage. What we
did was to drill a pilot hole through the top of the head rest, made up a
spindle to thread through the hole, then attached the correct size rotary
cutter made from a small piece of solid square metal bar with a adjustable
cutter(piece of hack saw blade works), now you can cut through the top of
the cockpit module easily - then follow the instructions for cutting into
the tank with a hot soldering iron - this leaves a rough uneven fit - so
using double sided tape stick a larger than the hole plastic bag to the side
of the tank - this will catch the swarf as you clean up the edges - then
follow the rest of the instructions. I used fishing line as safety device in
case I dropped the gasket or nut plate whilst inserting them into the tank -
'cause trying to retrieve a dropped piece from the bottom is not a lot of
fun -I know believe me.
Mike Toft
ZU CTG Trigear 914 Airmaster 80 Hours and still loving it
Been to the Kalahari Desert and Okavango Swamps 20 hours of phenomenal
flying!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <N914RB(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks for the reply and photos. I can always count on the photos on your
site to help through about any stage I'm working on. Invaluable stuff! I
have a ton of photos to put up as soon as I can get a networking problem
fixed here at home and transfer them. Thanks again,
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteveD
Subject: Europa-List: RE: Fuel Sender
Hmmmm.... looking at my CM you might be able to get the sender in without
going thru the top of the head rest but it looks tight....
Steved.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
>
> My GPS antenna is not just an antenna. It is a receiver. The signal
> on the wire coming out of it is data, not RF.
>
> This equipment now days is pretty much all digital.
I know they can now do that easily with a tiny $20, 12-channel GPS
receiver module in the antenna itself, but question if it's common yet
in aviation units. Which one do you have? My UPS/AT box isn't that
way, and I would theorize the cost and lead time needed for FAA
approval means that many of our devices are necessarily done the
relatively old-fashioned way with mere amplified antenna. But if your
case, good for the builder to know if more modern design. At the
limiting and meager baud rate the satellites do, who knows, even 10
feet of household "zip cord" may work! Else low-loss coax with
shortest run.
> 40% ?????
I weasel-worded as maybe up to 40% loss, but if mounted aft of the
baggage bay bulkhead, my data sheets on low loss cable could put ya
into the 30's easy. UPS/AT thus even allowed for up to 4dB loss, or
63%. I agree with your other point that it's all really moot here, no
matter what fancy circuitry is potted into an antenna mounted too near
a noise source.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
> Cheers,
> I agree with Fred. Funnily enough I just read an email about
a month
> ago where one of us had put his antenna on the starboard footwell
ceiling
> in the engine room.......... I think he said it worked well, but
then there's
> a great big metal thing in there. Might be worth trying.
Ignoring the heat abuse to the amplifier inside that antenna, that
sounds like an example of good design, to allow for some installers
not following instructions :-) , though it would seem the engine is
going to block a horizon sat rather easily. My aviation handheld
isn't supposed to work sitting on the right seat of a metal airplane
either, even while keeled over to orient the antenna wrong, but
usually does. The usual difference is that it can take too long to
acquire the sats initially before software gives up. What's probably
happening is the one nearer-to-horizon but really distant satellite it
needs comes through the windows OK, but on the overhead sats -- I'm
sure you know the favorable math involved here -- just suffer a mild
dip in strength that I can see on the screen with the individual
signal bars and current sat location.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Davidghillam(at)aol.com |
Thanks everyone for your comments. I knew there is vast amount of knowledge
out there.
The consensus suggests that it is an antenna positional error, as I
suspected. Having removed the panel twice already, once to correct an intercom/radio
connection error and again to deal with a faulty DI (manufacturing fault), I
didn't want to do it a third time, only to discover later that the problem
is due to other causes.
Now that the plane (and I) have had a shakedown period of circuits and local
flying, I will need the GPS to 'expand the envelope', so will have to bite
the bullet and get that panel out again!
David
G-SHSH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: pip-pin - tailplane and wing |
Here is another to try for inserting and removing pip pins in Elevator and
rear wing attachement -
Take a short length of steel or aluminium 1/2 inch tube which you will have
as a leftover.
Take some strong wire that will go through the hole in the top of the pip
pin and bend a handle on one end and a right - angle bend at the other and
cut it to a length that will be able to just comfortably through the tube.
Put wire through tube and into top of pip pin and you can pull on with and
push on tube to insert and just pull on wire to extract.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz (or Australia)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: pip-pin - tailplane
>
> David,
>
> I am a bit confused at what you describe...any chance that you could post
a
> picture of the pin and the "inserter/extractor"?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
> on 9/17/04 1:52 AM, David Joyce at davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> >
> > An alternative arrangement (not my invention - saw it on someone else's
> > plane and use it on mine) is to have a small steel cross bar in the hole
in
> > the pip pin that the ring comes in - made from a piece of the small rat
> > tailed ( or really mouse tailed) files you can buy sets of very cheaply.
You
> > can then insert or extract the pip pins from both tail plane and wing
root
> > with a tool made of hollowed steel with two spiralling grooves cut at
the
> > end so you 'screw it on ' to the pip pin end. You can then manage with
> > surface openings which are about 12mm wide.
>
> David Joyce G-XSDJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In |
Good day All,
We are just finishing up at the CopperState Fly-In here south of Phoenix,
Arizona. I sat in on a forum given by a gentleman from Lockwood Aviation. They
are a major US source for Rotax engines, accessories, parts, and service located
in Sebring, Florida.
I'm just going to quickly transfer my notes for those of us that have decided
to go with, or already have, a Rotax in their Europa.
Oil.....biggest cause of concern for Rotax due to the problems caused by the
wrong oil, running the oil too hot or too cold, or mounting the oil container
too high. For the 914, Lockwood recommends Mobil 1 MX4T Synthetic. But if you
use 100LL occasionally, do the oil change every 50 hours. If you use 100LL
exclusively, then do the oil change every 25 hours. The lead in the avgas mixes
in with the oil and slowly covers the oil channels inside the engine until,
like arterial sclerosis, your engine has a heart attack. For the 912 & 912S they
use Penzoil Motorcycle Racing oil 10W40 or 20W50. He says that the Penzoil
still has Phosphorus in their base oil and this prevents the oil from foaming,
turning into a thick mousse, and not to returning to the sump. There are also
many AD's on keeping air out of the oil. Also, oil temp is important to keep
210-230 F range. This can be difficult to do if you set up your oil cooling
system to work well in hot temps, it will cool the oil too much in cooler temps.
And Vice versa. They recommend an oil thermostat to shunt the oil around the
cooler until it gets to temp. When mounting the oil sump, don't place it too high
in relation to the engine or you may get the oil to siphon into the engine
after shutdown. Then when you check your oil it will look low, you add oil, and
now you have too much and it gets dumped out.
The carb flanges that people had trouble with splitting recently. There are
new flanges out that are stronger material and the clamp has a spacer to
prevent the screw from being over tightened. If you have the old style, then tighten
the screw until you have a 7mm gap at the underside between the two sides of
the clamp. This is sufficient, especially when using an airbox. Too tight and
you will either squeeze out the flange and it will pop off or it will split
right at the clamp in short time.
Float Bowl gaskets - If you remove the float bowls and the gasket comes off,
reseat it into the groove in the carb......don't try to sit it on top of the
bowl and press it up into place. It will not seat and probably leak...or worse
it will get damaged.
On new engines.....the carbs are set to full open...if you start it up
without a prop you will reach damage level rev in less than a second.
Idle set screws should not be used to set the idle if you can set it at the
throttle quadrant. Otherwise you could bend the set screw mounts if you
hurriedly pull back on the throttle.
If you run an airbox, run the overflow tubes from the carbs into the airbox
so the float bowls see the same pressure as the carbs. If no airbox, do not
extend the overflow tubes as it may be fine on the ground at idle but the
pressure will change in flight.
With the carbs off and upside down when the float bowl is removed, the float
arm should be horizontal.
Synchronizing the carbs is the means of allowing your engine to run trouble
free until TBO. They should be synchronize every 100 hours unless there is
trouble. Unsynchronized carbs cause excessive gearbox wear. Idle should be set
at
1800 rpm...under 1400 rpm the engine runs bad and will probably shut down.
Synchronizing the carbs can be done with a kit they sell and takes about 45
minutes the first time you try it, then only 20 minutes from then on.
Gearbox - On the 912S, the service should be done at about 500 hours. Sooner
if you don't sync your carbs. The gearbox can be removed by removing the two
bolts that attach the fuel pump and let the pump hang by the hoses. Then remove
all the bolts holding the gearbox. I think that he said that there are two
bolts near the bottom that are a different size. Then with the prop off, use a
rubber mallet to lightly tap the back side of the prop flange to evenly remove
the gearbox. If you clean it up and ship it to them, they do a two day
turnaround (usually) for about $100 plus return shipping.
EGT's - they don't recommend them because you can't do anything about it, the
front ones will always be higher than the rear, and at cruise they hardly
ever agree. Nominal temp runs about 1470'F with a max of 1560'F. This is measured
with their EGT setup that has the probe 36mm from the manifold. If yours is
more then it will run lower, closer it will run hotter.
K&N Carb Filters - Use only the K&N cleaner. If you use solvent or gasoline
you may ruin the filter paper. After cleaning let it air dry then apply the K&N
oil, otherwise the filter will only catch leaves, paper, and bugs. The grit
will pass right through. It should be done about every 200 hours...sooner in
dusty areas and grass strips.
Verify your prop tachs....he has seen most tachs are reading too low. You
should run 5600 rpm for take-off and climbout. But 5800 is max, so make sure your
tack is right.
And last but not least....he says that if you run a slipper clutch, you
should have the new starter motor to prevent damage to the sprag clutch. US
builders.....contact your Rotax dealer because this guy says that the US Rotax
importer is subsidizing the replacement of these new starter motor at 1/2 price.
Questions contact Lockwood. www.lockwood-aviation.com
Mike Duane
A207 XS Conventional gear
Redding, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Mike Hi!
> I'm just going to quickly transfer my notes for those of us that have decided
> to go with, or already have, a Rotax in their Europa.
Many Thanks for this overview. Lots of interesting maintenance facts.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In |
<<. US
> builders.....contact your Rotax dealer because this guy says that the US
Rotax
> importer is subsidizing the replacement of these new starter motor at 1/2
price.>>
I suggest that UK builders deluge the UK agent with the same request. The
response is predictable, but you never know!
http://www.skydrive.co.uk
Can Dave Watts confirm that his recently fitted 912s (in to the Classic
mount) includes the later starter?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In
>
> Good day All,
>
> We are just finishing up at the CopperState Fly-In here south of Phoenix,
> Arizona. I sat in on a forum given by a gentleman from Lockwood Aviation.
They
> are a major US source for Rotax engines, accessories, parts, and service
located
> in Sebring, Florida.
>
> I'm just going to quickly transfer my notes for those of us that have
decided
> to go with, or already have, a Rotax in their Europa.
>
> Oil.....biggest cause of concern for Rotax due to the problems caused by
the
> wrong oil, running the oil too hot or too cold, or mounting the oil
container
> too high. For the 914, Lockwood recommends Mobil 1 MX4T Synthetic. But if
you
> use 100LL occasionally, do the oil change every 50 hours. If you use 100LL
> exclusively, then do the oil change every 25 hours. The lead in the avgas
mixes
> in with the oil and slowly covers the oil channels inside the engine
until,
> like arterial sclerosis, your engine has a heart attack. For the 912 &
912S they
> use Penzoil Motorcycle Racing oil 10W40 or 20W50. He says that the Penzoil
> still has Phosphorus in their base oil and this prevents the oil from
foaming,
> turning into a thick mousse, and not to returning to the sump. There are
also
> many AD's on keeping air out of the oil. Also, oil temp is important to
keep
> 210-230 F range. This can be difficult to do if you set up your oil
cooling
> system to work well in hot temps, it will cool the oil too much in cooler
temps.
> And Vice versa. They recommend an oil thermostat to shunt the oil around
the
> cooler until it gets to temp. When mounting the oil sump, don't place it
too high
> in relation to the engine or you may get the oil to siphon into the engine
> after shutdown. Then when you check your oil it will look low, you add
oil, and
> now you have too much and it gets dumped out.
>
> The carb flanges that people had trouble with splitting recently. There
are
> new flanges out that are stronger material and the clamp has a spacer to
> prevent the screw from being over tightened. If you have the old style,
then tighten
> the screw until you have a 7mm gap at the underside between the two sides
of
> the clamp. This is sufficient, especially when using an airbox. Too tight
and
> you will either squeeze out the flange and it will pop off or it will
split
> right at the clamp in short time.
>
> Float Bowl gaskets - If you remove the float bowls and the gasket comes
off,
> reseat it into the groove in the carb......don't try to sit it on top of
the
> bowl and press it up into place. It will not seat and probably leak...or
worse
> it will get damaged.
>
> On new engines.....the carbs are set to full open...if you start it up
> without a prop you will reach damage level rev in less than a second.
> Idle set screws should not be used to set the idle if you can set it at
the
> throttle quadrant. Otherwise you could bend the set screw mounts if you
> hurriedly pull back on the throttle.
> If you run an airbox, run the overflow tubes from the carbs into the
airbox
> so the float bowls see the same pressure as the carbs. If no airbox, do
not
> extend the overflow tubes as it may be fine on the ground at idle but the
> pressure will change in flight.
> With the carbs off and upside down when the float bowl is removed, the
float
> arm should be horizontal.
>
> Synchronizing the carbs is the means of allowing your engine to run
trouble
> free until TBO. They should be synchronize every 100 hours unless there is
> trouble. Unsynchronized carbs cause excessive gearbox wear. Idle should be
set at
> 1800 rpm...under 1400 rpm the engine runs bad and will probably shut down.
> Synchronizing the carbs can be done with a kit they sell and takes about
45
> minutes the first time you try it, then only 20 minutes from then on.
>
> Gearbox - On the 912S, the service should be done at about 500 hours.
Sooner
> if you don't sync your carbs. The gearbox can be removed by removing the
two
> bolts that attach the fuel pump and let the pump hang by the hoses. Then
remove
> all the bolts holding the gearbox. I think that he said that there are two
> bolts near the bottom that are a different size. Then with the prop off,
use a
> rubber mallet to lightly tap the back side of the prop flange to evenly
remove
> the gearbox. If you clean it up and ship it to them, they do a two day
> turnaround (usually) for about $100 plus return shipping.
>
> EGT's - they don't recommend them because you can't do anything about it,
the
> front ones will always be higher than the rear, and at cruise they hardly
> ever agree. Nominal temp runs about 1470'F with a max of 1560'F. This is
measured
> with their EGT setup that has the probe 36mm from the manifold. If yours
is
> more then it will run lower, closer it will run hotter.
>
> K&N Carb Filters - Use only the K&N cleaner. If you use solvent or
gasoline
> you may ruin the filter paper. After cleaning let it air dry then apply
the K&N
> oil, otherwise the filter will only catch leaves, paper, and bugs. The
grit
> will pass right through. It should be done about every 200 hours...sooner
in
> dusty areas and grass strips.
>
> Verify your prop tachs....he has seen most tachs are reading too low. You
> should run 5600 rpm for take-off and climbout. But 5800 is max, so make
sure your
> tack is right.
>
> And last but not least....he says that if you run a slipper clutch, you
> should have the new starter motor to prevent damage to the sprag clutch.
US
> builders.....contact your Rotax dealer because this guy says that the US
Rotax
> importer is subsidizing the replacement of these new starter motor at 1/2
price.
>
> Questions contact Lockwood. www.lockwood-aviation.com
>
> Mike Duane
> A207 XS Conventional gear
> Redding, California
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Rotax Info from CopperState Fly-In |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Here's a photo of the gear box removed. Unit was shipped to Lockwood for clutch
installation. It was a pretty easy job to remove and reinstall.
Especially when it's still in it's shipping crate. :)
Steved
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2970#2970
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antenna Question |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
You'll have to forgive my ignorance but I know nothing about antennas. I'm going
to install a Garmin (UPS) Sl-30 nav-com. I want to use the localizer and glide
slope features. I've installed a Bob Archer Nav antenna (see photo). Do I need
another antenna? I found this on the web:
"The UPSAT SL30 uses regular VHF input and takes the glideslope signal from that
input inside their box, thus no splitter is required."
Thanks,
Steved.
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2971#2971
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Question |
Steve,
I have the SL30 and run it from the copper tape antenna in the rudder stern
post (Comm) and a copper tape antenna built into the right wing (Nav) - the
ILS localiser and Glideslope works a treat - no splitters or extra boxes
required.
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Antenna Question
>
> You'll have to forgive my ignorance but I know nothing about antennas. I'm
> going to install a Garmin (UPS) Sl-30 nav-com. I want to use the localizer
> and glide slope features. I've installed a Bob Archer Nav antenna (see
> photo). Do I need another antenna? I found this on the web:
> "The UPSAT SL30 uses regular VHF input and takes the glideslope signal
> from that input inside their box, thus no splitter is required."
>
> Thanks,
> Steved.
>
> ----------------
> This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
> http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2971#2971
>
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com> |
| Subject: | pip-pin - tailplane and wing |
Flight,
Having recently purchased a completed mono-wheel, I to was scratching my
head on how to pull those little wing pins. Well here is the special tool
that I made to be used to pull and insert the wing pins. It is a regular
set of needle nose pliers that I got at a local DIY/Home Depot store. I
took one side of the pliers and bent 3/8ths of an inch on one side 90
degrees toward the middle. I then filed it down to the correct length to
fit the hole in the pin. I then filed down the un-modified side so that it
was level with the 90 degree bend. I have posted the picture on my web
server at http://www.stephenscott.com/Europa/images/pip_pin_tool.JPG as well
as sent it to the list to be posted. It allows you not only to grab the pin
but give you a good way to grip while pulling.
Regards,
Steve Crimm
A058 - N15JN
Here is another to try for inserting and removing pip pins in Elevator and
rear wing attachement -
Take a short length of steel or aluminium 1/2 inch tube which you will have
as a leftover.
Take some strong wire that will go through the hole in the top of the pip
pin and bend a handle on one end and a right - angle bend at the other and
cut it to a length that will be able to just comfortably through the tube.
Put wire through tube and into top of pip pin and you can pull on with and
push on tube to insert and just pull on wire to extract.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz (or Australia)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: pip-pin - tailplane
>
> David,
>
> I am a bit confused at what you describe...any chance that you could post
a
> picture of the pin and the "inserter/extractor"?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
> on 9/17/04 1:52 AM, David Joyce at davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> >
> > An alternative arrangement (not my invention - saw it on someone else's
> > plane and use it on mine) is to have a small steel cross bar in the hole
in
> > the pip pin that the ring comes in - made from a piece of the small rat
> > tailed ( or really mouse tailed) files you can buy sets of very cheaply.
You
> > can then insert or extract the pip pins from both tail plane and wing
root
> > with a tool made of hollowed steel with two spiralling grooves cut at
the
> > end so you 'screw it on ' to the pip pin end. You can then manage with
> > surface openings which are about 12mm wide.
>
> David Joyce G-XSDJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
| Subject: | pip-pin - tailplane and wing |
To beat Ferg to the punch, "Oh, My, Oh my! How clever! Great picts.
Tom Friedland
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Crimm
Subject: RE: Europa-List: pip-pin - tailplane and wing
Flight,
Having recently purchased a completed mono-wheel, I to was scratching my
head on how to pull those little wing pins. Well here is the special
tool
that I made to be used to pull and insert the wing pins. It is a
regular
set of needle nose pliers that I got at a local DIY/Home Depot store. I
took one side of the pliers and bent 3/8ths of an inch on one side 90
degrees toward the middle. I then filed it down to the correct length
to
fit the hole in the pin. I then filed down the un-modified side so that
it
was level with the 90 degree bend. I have posted the picture on my web
server at http://www.stephenscott.com/Europa/images/pip_pin_tool.JPG as
well
as sent it to the list to be posted. It allows you not only to grab the
pin
but give you a good way to grip while pulling.
Regards,
Steve Crimm
A058 - N15JN
Here is another to try for inserting and removing pip pins in Elevator
and
rear wing attachement -
Take a short length of steel or aluminium 1/2 inch tube which you will
have
as a leftover.
Take some strong wire that will go through the hole in the top of the
pip
pin and bend a handle on one end and a right - angle bend at the other
and
cut it to a length that will be able to just comfortably through the
tube.
Put wire through tube and into top of pip pin and you can pull on with
and
push on tube to insert and just pull on wire to extract.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz (or Australia)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: pip-pin - tailplane
>
> David,
>
> I am a bit confused at what you describe...any chance that you could
post
a
> picture of the pin and the "inserter/extractor"?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
> on 9/17/04 1:52 AM, David Joyce at davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> >
> > An alternative arrangement (not my invention - saw it on someone
else's
> > plane and use it on mine) is to have a small steel cross bar in the
hole
in
> > the pip pin that the ring comes in - made from a piece of the small
rat
> > tailed ( or really mouse tailed) files you can buy sets of very
cheaply.
You
> > can then insert or extract the pip pins from both tail plane and
wing
root
> > with a tool made of hollowed steel with two spiralling grooves cut
at
the
> > end so you 'screw it on ' to the pip pin end. You can then manage
with
> > surface openings which are about 12mm wide.
>
> David Joyce G-XSDJ
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pip-pin - tailplane and wing |
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Clever. Really clever.
Consider yourself to be an honorary Kiwi (who as we all know, can make
just about anything out of a piece of #8 fence wire)
Tony
>>> ..... I then filed it down to the correct length to fit the hole in
the pin. I then filed down the un-modified side so that it was level
with the 90 degree bend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David DeFord" <davedeford(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Ignition problem |
On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem with
the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a standard
runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I continued
on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and made
it home without further incident.
There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil firing
two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs. The
suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of wires
and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much struggle,
I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be necessary
to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors from
the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may unscrew,
but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed as
separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is sparking
to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
Dave DeFord
N135TD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition problem |
Dave
The spark plug connectors simply unscrew from the plug wire. On My 914 the
spark plug wires have a stranded wire in the center, so if you are going to use
the same plug wire, just cut off about 1/8 th or a quarter inch then reinstall
the plug boot.
Jim Brown
N398JB
David DeFord wrote:
>
> On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
> up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
> headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
> rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem with
> the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
> though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
> All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a standard
> runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
> very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
> takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
> weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
> the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
> loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I continued
> on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and made
> it home without further incident.
>
> There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil firing
> two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
> resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
> between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs. The
> suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
> cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
> front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of wires
> and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much struggle,
> I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be necessary
> to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
> side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
> engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
>
> Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
> where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
> the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors from
> the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
> necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
> various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may unscrew,
> but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
> wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed as
> separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is sparking
> to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
> can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
>
> If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
> coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
>
> Dave DeFord
> N135TD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Ignition problem |
Dave:
I have had problems like that on motorcycles and the NGK plug connectors
screwed off of the end of the wire. There was a wood screw looking affair
that bored into the center conductor of the lead. Be advised thats for
motorcycles, no guarantees for airplanes.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: David DeFord <davedeford(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Date: 10/10/2004 9:28:27 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: Ignition problem
>
>
> On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
> up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
> headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
> rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem
with
> the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
> though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
> All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a
standard
> runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
> very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
> takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
> weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
> the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
> loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I
continued
> on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and
made
> it home without further incident.
>
> There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil
firing
> two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
> resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
> between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs.
The
> suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
> cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
> front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of
wires
> and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much
struggle,
> I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be
necessary
> to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
> side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
> engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
>
> Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
> where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
> the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors
from
> the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
> necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
> various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may
unscrew,
> but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
> wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed
as
> separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is
sparking
> to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
> can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
>
> If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
> coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
>
> Dave DeFord
> N135TD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Ignition problem |
Dave,
I had the same problem a few times with my 912S. What happened to mine was
a rite coming from the ignition module and going into the plug had broken.
It was right near the connector and in a tightly kinked area.
The pressure on the wire kept the broken ends pushed together so the problem
was intermittent - showed up as a very rough (very very rough) mag drop -
cutting out.
I found the problem after removing the ignition module. I solddered the
wire and all was well. It shoed again a few months later and the wire had
broken again closed to the plug so I removed the wire from the plug and
bypassed it with a butt connector - problem solved.
Those Ducati modules use some cheap wire, but the real problem is the way
they route it with very tight bends - my failures were also at the bends.
It was very difficult to trace - never could find it with a meter, because
of the broken wire being pushed together.
Thanks
Bob Jacobsen
N201WH
>From: "David DeFord" <davedeford(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: Ignition problem
>Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 21:28:08 -0700
>
>
>On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
>up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
>headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
>rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem with
>the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
>though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
>All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a standard
>runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
>very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
>takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
>weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
>the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
>loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I
>continued
>on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and made
>it home without further incident.
>
>There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil firing
>two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
>resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
>between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs.
>The
>suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
>cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
>front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of
>wires
>and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much
>struggle,
>I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be
>necessary
>to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
>side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
>engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
>
>Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
>where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
>the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors
>from
>the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
>necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
>various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may
>unscrew,
>but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
>wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed as
>separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is sparking
>to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
>can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
>
>If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
>coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
>
>Dave DeFord
>N135TD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall Forward-less List Addenda |
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
All, or at least to those interested in "the firewall forward-less,
Since posting the list on Oct. 1, I have received the following:
ADDITIONS TO LIST OF EUROPA BUILDERS
LACKING
FIREWALL FORWARD KIT
after October 1, 2004
Dr. Andrew Sarangan
A-178 (mono).
About 20% A-178 (mono).
About 20%complete
asarangan(at)yahoo.com
Alan Burrill
Kit 0303 Mono Wings with XS Fuselage
Top about to go on.
Reading UK
aopd37(at)dsl.pipex.com
Graham Pocock
Kit 535 XS Tri-G
Wings & tail done. C Mod ready to go in.
I'll probably fit a 912S, fwf reqd!
Eastbourne E.SX.
graham(at)pocock56.fsnet.co.uk
Barry Friedlander
A134 XS - ,tri-gear
finishing wing trailing edges,
starting on the fuel system &
preparing to install the cm
2925 Carriage Hills Drive,
Boulder, CO, 80302-9481,
bearandliz(at)boulderco.com
Ralph K. Hallett III
A###, Mono, motorglider
ready for fwf and electrical
8719 Stonefly Ct Reno, NV 89523
n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "percyville" <percyville(at)percyville.plus.com> |
| Subject: | Europa in Todays pilot |
Very shocking photo in November's Today's Pilot(page 7), A sparkling
G-BXUM! Dave, I'm sure you'll catch the vandals whom cleaned and
polished it soon!
Nothing new, the text is basically a re-write of the initial Europa2004
official announcement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris davis" <scrounge69(at)comcast.net> |
for sale ; europa tail
kit skinned not filled or finished all hard ware I paid 7500 sold my wings
.yours for 3500 OBO chris davis > P.S. talk about fast build
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "s.vestuti" <s.vestuti(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition problem, |
hello,
not sure if this is any use to you , but i had an intermitent missfire
on a rotax 462 two stroke ,
i eventualy traced the fault to an open ciruit spark plug cap - a new one was ordered
from rotax which simply
screwed on .
steve
# 573
working on the inst panel , wiring , doors & filling.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris davis" <scrounge69(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | tail kit for sale |
Sold my wings , tail kit for sale, I paid 7500' you pay 3500 skinned with all
hard ware . Talk about fast build!!! ChrisDavis p.s. you pay shipping and
crating
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
0.00 ORDER_NOW BODY": europa-list(at)matronics.com
I=B9ve just downloaded a Rotax Bulletin that instructs the Coolant is changed
to Evans NPG+.
Is my understanding correct?
If this is the case then http://www.evanscooling.com is the Supplier.
In Europe it seems a Company called Gearfox can supply from UK or Italy.
http://www.gearfox.co.uk/Evans.html
I=B9m just adding Lubricants and coolants for the first time. It seems another
change of direction for Rotax as I was about to purchase Glycol and make up
a 50/50 mix with water. Anyway. The Evans NPG+ looks good.
Will find out price when I order today. US Price is around $20.00 per gallon
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antenna Question |
I too have the SL30 and find it a great piece of kit. The only thing you
need to be aware of is that it needs calibrating to the VOR/GS receiver
( I forgot and spent months scratching my head as to why it didn't work
properly). It's a bit fiddly as it needs doing throughout the whole 360
degrees, which makes it work very accurately when completed so its worth
the effort. I can pick up my local VOR from 70 miles away at 3500ft...!
As for the antenna I simply use the standard " V" mounted in the rear of
the aircraft as the unit doesn't need anything fancy as it sees straight
through the composite fuselage nav and comm signals work perfectly.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MICHAEL
PARKIN
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Antenna Question
-->
Steve,
I have the SL30 and run it from the copper tape antenna in the rudder
stern
post (Comm) and a copper tape antenna built into the right wing (Nav) -
the
ILS localiser and Glideslope works a treat - no splitters or extra boxes
required.
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Antenna Question
>
> You'll have to forgive my ignorance but I know nothing about antennas.
> I'm
> going to install a Garmin (UPS) Sl-30 nav-com. I want to use the
localizer
> and glide slope features. I've installed a Bob Archer Nav antenna (see
> photo). Do I need another antenna? I found this on the web:
> "The UPSAT SL30 uses regular VHF input and takes the glideslope
signal
> from that input inside their box, thus no splitter is required."
>
> Thanks,
> Steved.
>
> ----------------
> This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following
> link: http://forum.okhuijsen.org/viewtopic.php?p=2971#2971
>
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
>
>
>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel pressure sender |
| From: | "Johnsen, Svein K." <Svein.Johnsen(at)mossww.com> |
I have the Grand Rapids Technologies Super EIS, with the LPS-02 fuel pressure sender
(912S engine). I am not too familiar with these things, but to me it appears
as if the sender is designed to be screwed into a block of some sort, or
into the body of something to measure the pressure inside that "something".
Anyone with the same pressure sender:
- How did you connect it to the fuel system? Branching off from the hose between
the mechanical pump and the carbs is obvious, but what type of connection did
you use on the sender?
- Where did you install the sender, and what kind of fixture did you use?
Regards,
Svein
A225 - now in Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure sender |
What you have sounds like a standard VDO sender (very similar to the oil
pressure sender at the front of the engine). You will need to find a female
coupling that will attach to a pipe connection - so that you can slide and
secure the standard fuel hose over it . Best place to find is a hydraulic &
hose supplier alternately I believe the necessary parts can be found in the
Spruce and Speciality catalog.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnsen, Svein K." <Svein.Johnsen(at)mossww.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pressure sender
>
> I have the Grand Rapids Technologies Super EIS, with the LPS-02 fuel
pressure sender (912S engine). I am not too familiar with these things, but
to me it appears as if the sender is designed to be screwed into a block of
some sort, or into the body of something to measure the pressure inside that
"something".
>
> Anyone with the same pressure sender:
>
> - How did you connect it to the fuel system? Branching off from the hose
between the mechanical pump and the carbs is obvious, but what type of
connection did you use on the sender?
> - Where did you install the sender, and what kind of fixture did you use?
>
> Regards,
> Svein
> A225 - now in Norway
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
europa-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant
| I=B9ve just downloaded a Rotax Bulletin that instructs the Coolant is
changed
| to Evans NPG+.|
| Is my understanding correct?|
| If this is the case then http://www.evanscooling.com is the Supplier.|
| I=B9m just adding Lubricants and coolants for the first time. It seems
another
| change of direction for Rotax as I was about to purchase Glycol and make
up
| a 50/50 mix with water. Anyway. The Evans NPG+ looks good.|
| Will find out price when I order today. US Price is around $20.00 per
gallon|
| Regards Gerry
Gerry,
Looks that way to me. Wonderful how a short sharp description can
turn into a romp through twenty pages........... The emergency solution
appears to be pure propylene glycol antifreeze but to change to Evans when
back at base.
Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NSI/Subaru MOGAS Clearance |
| From: | "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth(at)cvluk.com> |
Hi,
I have just bought G-CHEB, a Subaru powered tri-gear. The plane is fantastic (though
not a concourse winner, but that's not why I bought it!). Even after just
5 or 6 hours flying I love it.
As is the want with PFA aircraft I have a list of 'jobs' and one on the list was
to get cleared for MOGAS. As there was nothing in the log book to indicate it
had been cleared, I have contacted PFA - to find that non of the Subaru powered
aircraft have ever been cleared and therefore it can't be cleared.
Hmmm .... apparently I need to gather information from NSI and evidence of these
engines running on MOGAS and technical data to support the clearance. I guess
I can go down the path of finding the stuff I need, but am I the first here
to do this? What of any other Subaru users perhaps in the States? Do you have
US clearance information for MOGAS?
Is this going to be so painful that I just stick to AVGAS!?!?!?
Any help/guidance much appreciated ....
Tim Butterworth
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NSI/Subaru MOGAS Clearance |
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I have just bought G-CHEB, a Subaru powered tri-gear.
> Hmmm .... apparently I need to gather information from NSI and evidence of
> these engines running on MOGAS and technical data to support the clearance. I
> guess I can go down the path of finding the stuff I need, but am I the first
> here to do this? What of any other Subaru users perhaps in the States? Do you
> have US clearance information for MOGAS?
Tim,
I forward the following info from Glenn Crowder gcrowder2(at)hotmail.com vis a
vis Subarus'; Glenn is not generally on-list, but you might consider
contacting him directly.
>> From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: Europa w/ Subaru
>> Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 19:09:16 -0800
>>
>> Hi Glen,
>>
>> I'm a Europa builder w/o FWF and am curious as to the status of your
>> installation and your degree of satisfaction.
>>
>> Where are you located?
>>
>> Fred
>> A194
> Hey Fred!
> I'm based at Erie Tri County 48V just north of Denver, Colorado. I have
> a Classic monowheel
> that was the first Europa completed in the US. The original builder flew it
> to Oshkosh in 1996 from
> Atlanta. He had installed one of the very first NSI Sube conversions and
> had cooling problems and low performance. He lost the NSI gearbox on the
> way home from Osh but was able to dead stick it
> in to an airport with no damage. He did not fly the plane after that and I
> bought it in 2000.
> I bought the plane and flew it in Denver for a while but performance and
> cooling were not good
> enough for me. Top speed was about 130 mph and best climb was about 800 fpm
> solo, 500 with
> a passenger. I tried some different cooling configurations but I wasn't
> totally happy with it until
> this summer when I finally decided to do the cooling right (I still have to
> repaint the cowling after
> the final duct work). At the same time I sent the engine to Ram Performance
> Subaru in Clinton Ohio for a power upgrade. They have a nice website at
> Ramengines.com. Before the upgrade, power was about 90 hp, now dynos at 128.
> I also scrapped the NSI redrive and the NSI CAP 140 prop and went to a
> Marcotte redrive and a Catto fixed pitch 3 bladed prop. I am now very happy
> with the performance. Top speed is now a solid 175 mph GPS, 75% power at
> 5000 rpm gives 150-155 mph. Climb rate solo is 1100 fpm (Field elev is 5190
> ft) and 800 fpm with a 200 lb passenger. I am 210 lbs. Aircraft weight is
> 910 lbs empty. Economy is very good as well. WOT is 6.2 gph, 75% power is
> 5.2, economy cruise at 4000 rpm is 110 mph and 2.5 gph. Slow cruise at 3500
> rpm is 100 mph and 2.0 gph!
> I had to make my own motor mount and exhaust system but it was fun and I
> learned a lot.
> Also had to redo the cowling a couple of times until I got the cooling
> right. I am very happy with
> the plane at this point but I still plan to add a MPFI system (the one Ram
> sells) and a set of
> roller rockers as well as do a fairing around the monowheel. I think the
> plane can go 10-20 mph
> faster yet with these mods.
> Hows your project going? I hope you didn't lose a bundle to the Europa
> bust!
> I would recommend staying with the Rotax to get in the air the soonest, but
> I think the Sube
> has the most performance potential. Ron Carr at Ram has a new version with
> the MPFI fuel
> injection and direct fire ignition that he is getting 160 hp on his dyno. I
> really feel that is an
> honest figure and am considering upgrading to this engine or at least the
> injection!
> I am happy to answer any other questions, also I have dozens of other
> photos I could
> send if you get interested! John Lawton in Tennessee is considering the
> Sube as well for his
> XS tri gear.
>
> Glenn Crowder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI/Subaru MOGAS Clearance |
> As is the want with PFA aircraft I have a list of 'jobs' and one on
the list was
> to get cleared for MOGAS.
> ...
> Do you have US clearance information for MOGAS?
For U.S. amateur-builts, you can use backyard corn liquor w/o FAA
approval if it'll work. Though maybe not too helpful, we in U.S.
might wonder how the PFA would be a bar to using mogas. FAA requires,
for production aircraft, a Supplemental Type Certificate to use mogas,
and most users have it, but I know many who don't believe in paying
big $$ for a mere piece of paper and freely use the stuff. Is the PFA
more to be feared than gov't enforcement here - which can be rather
heavy-handed if caught? :-)
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NSI/Subaru MOGAS Clearance |
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>> As is the want with PFA aircraft I have a list of 'jobs' and one on
the list was to get cleared for MOGAS. As there was nothing in the log
book to indicate it had been cleared, I have contacted PFA - to find
that non of the Subaru powered aircraft have ever been cleared and
therefore it can't be cleared.
Don't the PFA believe that the Subaru engine is capable of operating on
Mogas? Perhaps they should go and stand by the M1 and count the Sub's as
they go past.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure sender |
put a tee connection in the line from the pump to the regulator
Sam N77EU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure sender |
Svein,
I have a 914 so this might not be relevant for a 912S. I purchased another
banjo fitting and a longer banjo bolt from Lockwood. I put the new fitting
next to the existing fitting on the pressure regulator and ran a rubber hose
to the pressure sensor which I mounted on the firewall. I used a UMA
pressure sensor which is a differential sensor. The return side is
connected to the airbox.
Paul - 120 hours and still grinning
http://europa363.versadev.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
| Subject: | Fuel pressure sender |
Many thanks to Carl, Sam and Paul for quick replies. I will go looking for
a suitable transition piece from branched off fuel hose to the threaded
pressure sender, and somehow mount this on the firewall below the point
where I branch off from the fuel hose, so there is no chance of vapo(u)r
building up over time in front of the sender.
There are two distinct differences between the 912S and 914 installations in
this respect, as far as I understand:
(1)912S does not have a pressure regulator just before the carbs as on 914
(it is probably incorporated in the 912S's mechanical pump?).
(2) As the airbox on the 912S has (close to) ambient air pressure, while the
914's airbox of course has the overpressure from the turbocharger, it is on
912S adequate to measure only the actual pressure in the fuel line and not
adjust this for the "counter-pressure" in the airbox, to arrive at what
pressure the carb needle actually "feels".
It is interesting to note that the Rotax installation manual does not
specify a fuel pressure reading for 912S, and as far as the 914 only
"recommends" it. The Rotax dealer for Scandinavia does not even have
anything in particular to offer for 912S in this respect. What does PFA
require in the UK for non-gravity fed fuel systems? In Norway it is
actually required to have a fuel pressure gauge in such cases - apart from
being a good thing to have, too.
Regards,
Svein
-----Opprinnelig melding-----
Fra: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]P vegne av Paul
McAllister
Sendt: 13. oktober 2004 02:18
Til: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Emne: Re: Europa-List: Fuel pressure sender
Svein,
I have a 914 so this might not be relevant for a 912S. I purchased another
banjo fitting and a longer banjo bolt from Lockwood. I put the new fitting
next to the existing fitting on the pressure regulator and ran a rubber hose
to the pressure sensor which I mounted on the firewall. I used a UMA
pressure sensor which is a differential sensor. The return side is
connected to the airbox.
Paul - 120 hours and still grinning
http://europa363.versadev.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning |
All,
I have a Digiflight 100 Autopilot supplied by Trutrak Flight Systems.
On listening to a radio interview with Dennis Vories on
www.kitplanes.com/Redirect/radio/2012303.asp
I note that Dennis installed the servo for his Digitrak through the Port
side spar opening, and mounted it to the bulkhead directly behind the
seat. He says it is easy to retrofit on an existing aircraft (Europa of
course)
The interview also states that photos of his installation were to be
placed on Trutraks web site but unfortunately this has never eventuated.
Enquires to Trutrak have revealed the CD with the photos was corrupt.
Is anybody on the list familiar with this installation and if so, do you
know of any photos that might be available of same? OR does anybody
know of someone else who has done the same sort of installation who
might be able to furnish a few photos?
I am familiar with two methods of putting the servo under the seat and I
may yet have to do it this way but my preferred choice at this time is
as described above.
BTW, anybody unfamiliar with the Dennis Vories interview would more than
likely enjoy it. You have to wade through a bit of crap at the
beginning but once the actual interview commences, it is quite
interesting. It was recorded some time ago now but is still worth
hearing.
Regards
Kingsley
Mono Classic 281 in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Houlihan,Tim" <tim.houlihan(at)oce.co.uk> |
Subject: Torque settings for Warp Drive prop
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2004 11:51:07 +0100
Hi
I have misplaced the document that came with the Warp drive ground
adjustable prop, this leads me to ask the forum two questions.
1, Where the H**l have I put the piece of paper from Warp Drive ???
or more likely to get a useful response ,
2, What are the torque settings for the prop bolts ? I have a standard 912
Classic with the standard Warp Drive ground adjustable prop ??
Many thanks in expectation
Tim Houlihan G-BZTH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Harrison" <naharrison(at)manx.net> |
| Subject: | Resin Pump for sale |
Dear All,
Prior to the problems with EMIL, I tooled up ready for the build, and
splashed out on a good resin pump. Due to a change in plan, I no longer need
this and wonder whether anyone in UK would like to buy it. It is a Glenmarc
Portionator MBT-JR from the USA. It has a variable ratio facility, stainless
steel reservoirs and is unused (new). The cost to me was $439.00 + freight
and VAT in UK.. OK so I'm mad, but accuracy and ease of use were paramount,
and the "Europa" resin pump was not available for "technical" reasons.
Sensible offers would be entertained, but purchaser to pay the freight. I
also have a set of 'iBAL 1200' digital electronic scales (the resin pump
took forever to obtain, so I'd planned to start with the scales) and a
full-face non-powered James North Respirator (49.63 + VAT) with A2-P3
filters x 2 (5.72 each + VAT).
Please contact me off list. Not for archiving.
Regards
Nigel Harrison
Isle of Man
****************************************************************
This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
http://www.manx.net/default.asp?id=25
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Davidghillam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Tim,
I have the same set-up as you (912+GA Warp Drive).
My Warp Drive leaflet gives the following:
Torque 1/4" bolts to 100 to 120 inch pounds or 9 to 10 foot lbs
Torque 3/8" bolts to 35 foot pounds
Torque 8mm or 5/16" bolts to 175 inch pounds or 14.5 ft lbs
I think the 1/4" and 5/16" specs are relevant to our situation.
Hope this helps. Phone me if your need more info. from the leaflet.
David
01666 890 390
G-SHSH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | push rods for the doors |
| From: | "josok" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm slots in
the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i am making the first
one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the most clever way to do it is
find an crc milling shop eh?
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Viet Newspaper" <info(at)danviet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Thank you for your email |
Thank you,
We have received your email.
It will be attended to as soon as we possibly can.
Have a nice day!
Cam on ban,
Chung toi da nhan duoc email cua ban.
Chung toi se luu y trong thoi gian som nhat.
Chuc ban mot ngay vui ve.
Tuan bao Dan Viet.
(This is an auto reply message)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <beecho(at)beecho.org> |
| Subject: | push rods for the doors |
Yep, I gave mine to a friend who has a milling machine at work. He said
it only took a few minutes...
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of josok
Subject: Europa-List: push rods for the doors
Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm
slots in the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i
am making the first one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the most
clever way to do it is find an crc milling shop eh?
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Lowe <DennisLowe(at)bluewatertechnology.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
Anyone with a small milling machine or centre lathe would be able to do
it for you.
I would try the local model making fraternity.
regards
Dennis Lowe
On 13 Oct 2004, at 16:34, josok wrote:
>
> Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm
> slots in the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i
> am making the first one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the
> most clever way to do it is find an crc milling shop eh?
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
frame.
Cheers,
Nev.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "simon miles" <simon.miles(at)skynet.be> |
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
> Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
> frame.
> Cheers,
> Nev.
Now you tell me!!!
Simon Miles,
Builder #508,
After nearly three years I have a kit that really looks like an aeroplane.
Many thanks for all your help in the past and good luck for the future.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RK Hallett III <n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
Nev,
You are one smart cookie ;) Thanks I'll do that.
Ralph
Wondering what goes in front of the firewall to hold the nose down ;)
NevEyre(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
>frame.
>Cheers,
>Nev.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Nev
> Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a hacksaw
> frame.
The whole world loves a smart arse!
Humble Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning |
Surprised to hear that there would be space to do that.
I mounted mine in the 'tunnel' on the back of the ply hardpoint provided for
the fuel valve on the Classic (the XS doesn't have this) with linkage to a
horn bolted to the aft end of the aileron torque tube (the one that runs
under the seat). I have drawings (that wouldn't scan very well, having been
reduced in size to comply with PFA's required submission format). Could send
if you really insist.
I don't like the underseat method because of the difficulty in achieving a
robust retrofitted connection of the control horn to the aileron torque
tube.
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Trutrak Flight Systems - Servo Positioning
>
> All,
>
> I have a Digiflight 100 Autopilot supplied by Trutrak Flight Systems.
>
> On listening to a radio interview with Dennis Vories on
> www.kitplanes.com/Redirect/radio/2012303.asp
> I note that Dennis installed the servo for his Digitrak through the Port
> side spar opening, and mounted it to the bulkhead directly behind the
> seat. He says it is easy to retrofit on an existing aircraft (Europa of
> course)
>
> The interview also states that photos of his installation were to be
> placed on Trutraks web site but unfortunately this has never eventuated.
> Enquires to Trutrak have revealed the CD with the photos was corrupt.
>
> Is anybody on the list familiar with this installation and if so, do you
> know of any photos that might be available of same? OR does anybody
> know of someone else who has done the same sort of installation who
> might be able to furnish a few photos?
>
> I am familiar with two methods of putting the servo under the seat and I
> may yet have to do it this way but my preferred choice at this time is
> as described above.
>
> BTW, anybody unfamiliar with the Dennis Vories interview would more than
> likely enjoy it. You have to wade through a bit of crap at the
> beginning but once the actual interview commences, it is quite
> interesting. It was recorded some time ago now but is still worth
> hearing.
>
> Regards
>
> Kingsley
> Mono Classic 281 in Oz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
Don't clap.....throw money !!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
> Don't clap.....throw money !!!!!!!!
Sorry Mate. Keith Wilson had it!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "simon miles" <simon.miles(at)skynet.be> |
| Subject: | Routing fuel hose through the firewall |
What is the best way to route the fuel supply and return hoses through the
firewall? I have a 912S engine. To me, some type of bulkhead union for the
Europa supplied hoses would be the best way but I can't find any suitable
fittings. How have others done this?
Best regards,
Simon Miles,
Builder #508
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Finger Brake Conversion |
My kit is a trigear delivered to the original owner sometime in 1999, A101, and
came with the toe brakes. I of course want to convert this to the finger brakes.
Does anyone know of a conversion kit for this and what it entails?
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
A101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Fuel Line Fittings for Flex Hose thru Firewall |
Johnsen,
You need a product called Speedflow. It is made in Australia, but is being
circulated further and further afield these days. You will note a UK
address as well. Expensive, but worth it, and lightweight aluminium. Very
high quality and used extensively in car racing.
Try
http://www.speedflow.com.au/
or
http://www.speedflow.co.uk/
Fittings required are either
Short Bulkhead 831-06
Straight Bulkhead 832-06
45 degree Bulkhead 837-06
90 degree Bulkhead 833-06
Bulkhead Nut 924-06
If you want to put your fuel pressure sender as far up towards the front
you could use a
Bulkhead Tee 834-06
Bulkhead Tee on Run 924-06
Nylon Washers (unsure what you would want these for) 903-06
On the cockpit side of things you now need:
Straight Hose End 401-06
45 degree Hose End 402-06
90 degree Hose End 403-06
These are push on fittings which have barbs for containment. Based on our
fuel system pressures, they will never blow off ! I used a crimp fitting,
a ring with 2 opposing bulbous sections in the circumference that you pinch
tighter with a set of wire cutters. This sounds contradictory to say you
won't blow off the hose and yet I have a secondary method of attachment,
but that is more for "Aviation best practice", to prove I know of it and
think it appropriate in my build. Butt covering really.
I don't think these fittings are ideally suited to the fuel line supplied
by Europa. There is a wide variety of product, but I used Aeroquip FC332
Textile Braid, Low Pressure, Socketless hose at about$10 US per metre. Good
hose. If you make good fittings on each end, the quality of the hose and
remanufacturing them is not such a big deal. This stuff will last a long
time. ACS sell a range, and the 666 series is popular amongst those that
don't know much about the bible :-)
I have a catalogue and if you have further troubles, I'm out here in the ether.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
You'll need a bulkhead fitting with the applicable
They
At 11:32 PM 10/12/2004, you wrote:
>
>
>What you have sounds like a standard VDO sender (very similar to the oil
>pressure sender at the front of the engine). You will need to find a female
>coupling that will attach to a pipe connection - so that you can slide and
>secure the standard fuel hose over it . Best place to find is a hydraulic &
>hose supplier alternately I believe the necessary parts can be found in the
>Spruce and Speciality catalog.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Johnsen, Svein K." <Svein.Johnsen(at)mossww.com>
>To: "Europa-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: Europa-List: Fuel pressure sender
>
>
>
> >
> > I have the Grand Rapids Technologies Super EIS, with the LPS-02 fuel
>pressure sender (912S engine). I am not too familiar with these things, but
>to me it appears as if the sender is designed to be screwed into a block of
>some sort, or into the body of something to measure the pressure inside that
>"something".
> >
> > Anyone with the same pressure sender:
> >
> > - How did you connect it to the fuel system? Branching off from the hose
>between the mechanical pump and the carbs is obvious, but what type of
>connection did you use on the sender?
> > - Where did you install the sender, and what kind of fixture did you use?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Svein
> > A225 - now in Norway
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Ignition problem |
Bob,
Has anyone resolved some of these ignition carby issues on the 912S? I read
about your tight wiring and the way it creates problems and wonder if
anyone has rewired the engine to resolve these issues. Surely the leads
wouldn't cost that much to simply replace and know it would never happen
again. I can't think when I have ever replaced leads in my cars over the
years, but I do know it can happen from time to time. As for the ignition
system, what about an after market electronic ignition system for the
Rotax? Then of course there is the carbies, with the way they go out of
synch all the time. Seems a bit backward to me. Such a good little engine
in so many ways, with this dud componentry strapped to it. I'd be
interested to know what you think, especially as you have quite a lot of
hours up now behind them.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
At 12:36 AM 10/12/2004, you wrote:
>
>Dave,
>
>I had the same problem a few times with my 912S. What happened to mine was
>a rite coming from the ignition module and going into the plug had broken.
>It was right near the connector and in a tightly kinked area.
>
>The pressure on the wire kept the broken ends pushed together so the problem
>was intermittent - showed up as a very rough (very very rough) mag drop -
>cutting out.
>
>I found the problem after removing the ignition module. I solddered the
>wire and all was well. It shoed again a few months later and the wire had
>broken again closed to the plug so I removed the wire from the plug and
>bypassed it with a butt connector - problem solved.
>
>Those Ducati modules use some cheap wire, but the real problem is the way
>they route it with very tight bends - my failures were also at the bends.
>
>It was very difficult to trace - never could find it with a meter, because
>of the broken wire being pushed together.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bob Jacobsen
>N201WH
>
>
> >From: "David DeFord" <davedeford(at)comcast.net>
> >Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Europa-List: Ignition problem
> >Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 21:28:08 -0700
> >
> >
> >On my way to the Copperstate fly-in on Friday, I stopped in Bishop to pick
> >up Kevin Klinefelter. We heard a loud, irregular popping noise in our
> >headphones while taxiing to the runway, and the runup showed one rather
> >rough mag. We checked the plugs and wires, finding no obvious problem with
> >the wires, but the four plugs in the front cylinders were all very black,
> >though they had only a few hours on them. (The rear plugs were all fine.)
> >All plugs were replaced, and everything seemed smooth, including a standard
> >runup. (During the troubleshooting, the engine had gone from very hot to
> >very cool, with the cowls removed.) The popping noise began again on
> >takeoff, so we returned to Bishop, and I dropped off Kevin. With poor
> >weather in the forecast for the next day, I headed for home (180nm across
> >the 13000-foot peaks of the Sierra). After a couple of episodes of very
> >loud popping during the climb, everything quieted down again, so I
> >continued
> >on up to 15500 feet (912S/Airmaster power), crossed the mountains, and made
> >it home without further incident.
> >
> >There are four ignition coils on the 912/914 engines, with each coil firing
> >two cylinders (one live, one with valves open) at once. I measured the
> >resistance between the pair of plug wires from each coil, and found 17K
> >between the top plugs, and open circuits between the bottom plug pairs.
> >The
> >suspect coil (based on the rough mag and the black plugs in the front
> >cylinders) is the forward coil on the port side, which fires the bottom
> >front plugs. It is nearly impossible to see anything in the tangle of
> >wires
> >and hoses in this area, so I tried to remove the coil. After much
> >struggle,
> >I got most of the way to the coil, but determined that it would be
> >necessary
> >to either remove the engine from the ring mount, or remove the starboard
> >side intake manifold to get the coil out. Access to many parts of the
> >engine is difficult, but this is ridiculous.
> >
> >Each plug wire is sheathed in a rubber sleeve, which covers the "tower"
> >where the wire enters the spark coil. Two of these sleeves are broken at
> >the coil end. Does anyone know how to remove the spark plug connectors
> >from
> >the wires, or the wires from the coils? At least one of these must be
> >necessary, in order to get the wires through the sleeves, and also through
> >various other sleeves and holes. I suspect that the connectors may
> >unscrew,
> >but I'd hate to damage one by trying the wrong thing. The coils come with
> >wires attached (at $280 each), but the wires and sleeves are also listed as
> >separate parts. It seems likely that my problem is a wire that is sparking
> >to the engine, or possibly sparking across a break in the coductor, but I
> >can't figure out how to remove them for further testing or replacement.
> >
> >If anyone has experience troubleshooting or repairing the Rotax ignition
> >coil assemblies, I'd certainly appreciate any advice.
> >
> >Dave DeFord
> >N135TD
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
Hi All,
I started cutting slots in the push rods and decided there must be an easier
way. I put a couple of flats on the push rods and riveted on some cheek
plates. It was quick to do and much stronger.
Take a look at the photo's under November 2001 Sunday 11 on my WEB site
http://europa363.versadev.com/
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com> |
My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat for
the cabin?
Steve Crimm
A058
N15JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
> My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
> flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat for
> the cabin?
Steve Hi!
I'll send you some pictures of what I've done. It's a Trigear but could be
adapted with rerouting to Mono.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Finger Brake Conversion |
What you need is Europa (Factory) Mod Number 65. Contact the factory for
details and price. For information I will send you the documentation
direct.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | push rods for the doors |
>push rods for the doors
>From: "josok" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi>
> 2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
>
>
>Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm
>slots in
>the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i am making
>the first
>one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the most clever way to do it is
>find an crc milling shop eh?
Jos
there's a better way, use 1/8" plate side cheeks riveted on. I'll send you
some pictures of Paul McAllister's installation. Cutting out the rod makes
it very weak, it's soft aluminium.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
| From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
Nev,
You did it again. If it was a competition, you just won the first price.
Jos
> Easy way to cut the slots is to mount 3 blades, side by side. in a
> hacksaw
> frame.
> Cheers,
> Nev.
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing fuel hose through the firewall |
simon miles wrote:
>
> What is the best way to route the fuel supply and return hoses
> through the firewall? I have a 912S engine. To me, some type of
> bulkhead union for the Europa supplied hoses would be the best
> way but I can't find any suitable fittings. How have others done
this?
>
I used brass stuff available at the local hardware store. Two 5/16"
nipples with 1/8" NPT; 1/8" female-female coupler; thin 3/8" brass
washers. Open up the hole in the washers to fit. The trick is to use
enough/thickness of washers, and/or filing down the coupler a little
bit, so that as the assembly tightens sufficiently, it's also tight on
the bulkhead. Assemble with hardening Permatex, or Permatex Aviation
Form-A-Gasket, or even epoxy adhesive, which is also fuel resistant.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: push rods for the doors |
I remember this as a particularly difficult step to complete - and like our
friend - wondering why we didn't hear about the 3 blades earlier. However,
my personal solution was to scout the toolshops locally and buy a flat file
which produced an exact 4mm slot by means of its edge. I began with wayward
saws and finished by cleaning up with the file. It took some doing but the
micrometer was happy in the end.........
Cheers, Ferg A064
PS That ain't all.......... I fouled up the length measurement on one, and
it's repaired with rivets and a patch of 3/8inch alu rod, 'cause I couldn't
wait.
----- Original Message -----
From: "josok" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi>
Subject: Europa-List: push rods for the doors
|
| Just wondering, has anybody come up with a clever way to make the 4 mm
slots in the 10 mm bars for the door latch pushrods? Hand filing, as i am
making the first one now seems to be a lot of filing. Maybe the most clever
way to do it is find an crc milling shop eh?
| ----------------
| Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Routing fuel lines through firewall |
Simon,
I used aluminum fuel line and routed it through the tunnel and up in between the
mounting frame and fuselage/firewall. This approach does not require penetrating
the firewall. I secured the aluminum line to the face of the firewall and
then transitioned to standard rubber fuel line to connect to the engine. The
above did require a notch in the stainless steel firewall panel to accommodate
the fuel lines. I simply filled the gap with silicone.
Erich Trombley
N28ET
Mono-Classic 914
What is the best way to route the fuel supply and return hoses through the
firewall? I have a 912S engine. To me, some type of bulkhead union for the
Europa supplied hoses would be the best way but I can't find any suitable
fittings. How have others done this?
Best regards,
Simon Miles,
Builder #508
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/ month - visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
Hi All,
On the subject of "scuff sanding"...particularly in relation to preparation
for the 2" wide reinforcement tapes between the wing spar and skins...I've
read thru the manual as well as the matronics search without finding any
info which seemed relevant.
My concern is my uncertainty as to what constitutes adequate "scuff sanding"
in order to achieve required bonding.
As I sand the areas of the skins where the 2" reinf. tapes go, I note that
because of the weave of the glass on the skins, a pattern developes with the
high areas becoming whitish matte and the low areas remaining darker and
somewhat glossy; my fear is that if I continue sanding so that the area
becomes 100% "whitish matte", I will remove too much material and degrade
the strength value of the existing glass skins.
I'd be grateful to learn whether or not a consensus has been reached on this
issue as well as any individual comments from "those who have gone before"
me.
Fred
A194
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuff sanding |
Fred,
Just sand it to where there is no shiny material left. You shouldn't
have to sand into the glass to worry about degrading the material but
even if you get into it a bit you are about to place 2 more layers on
top of it. The scuff sanding is just so the epoxy holds.
Jeff
A258
Priming & sanding it off again looking for that perfect finish. Now I
remember why I use to hate doing drywall!
On Oct 14, 2004, at 4:42 PM, Fred R. Klein wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> On the subject of "scuff sanding"...particularly in relation to
> preparation
> for the 2" wide reinforcement tapes between the wing spar and
> skins...I've
> read thru the manual as well as the matronics search without finding
> any
> info which seemed relevant.
>
> My concern is my uncertainty as to what constitutes adequate "scuff
> sanding"
> in order to achieve required bonding.
>
> As I sand the areas of the skins where the 2" reinf. tapes go, I note
> that
> because of the weave of the glass on the skins, a pattern developes
> with the
> high areas becoming whitish matte and the low areas remaining darker
> and
> somewhat glossy; my fear is that if I continue sanding so that the area
> becomes 100% "whitish matte", I will remove too much material and
> degrade
> the strength value of the existing glass skins.
>
> I'd be grateful to learn whether or not a consensus has been reached
> on this
> issue as well as any individual comments from "those who have gone
> before"
> me.
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Trimming Cranked Sticks |
Gidday,
I am fitting up my control boots and sticks, and notice that the length
appears really long, so I am wondering if others have cut them down at
all?? The base of my stick sits about an inch above my knee, so my entire
hand is up in the air, even when sitting on 2 cushions totalling about 2-3"
of padding. All help appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger
Currently working on Rudder Pedals,
In but tight so more work to go on them.
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig,
Tail Torque Tube installed with temporary timber dowels.
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Roof Panel between doors completed.
Photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/TonyR
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Garmin 296 Colour GPS beneath an electronic Artificial
Horizon, one that I can trust for short periods IMC, to get out of a sticky
situation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
Steve and All
I originally had a cockpit heater taking hot air off a plenum over the top
of the muffler. At Oshkosh this past summer, Dave Anderson and I traded
stories about CO in the cockpit. Because of this discussion, I have disabled
this heater set-up. I now think it unwise to take any air from inside the
engine cowling in any way. Only intake air in tight fitting ducting will be
used.
I am planning to install a small radiator in a home-made fiberglass air duct
and run hot water through it. (Not a new idea) Parts have not been specked
as yet and help along this line would be appreciated.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
>
> My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
> flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat
> for
> the cabin?
>
> Steve Crimm
> A058
> N15JN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Trimming Cranked Sticks |
Hi! Tony.
If you have the Europa supplied cranked sticks and tufnol bottom bushes
mine didn't need cutting down. Biggest problem is settling on the
rotational orientation to ensure full and free movement without your
knees being in the way AND above all being sure that the P1 stick
doesn't hit the panel. The centre line of the torque tubes on both sides
is not in the centre of the seat pan. The range of movement required
isn't apparent until you have the wings fitted.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony
Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Trimming Cranked Sticks
Gidday,
I am fitting up my control boots and sticks, and notice that the length
appears really long, so I am wondering if others have cut them down at
all?? The base of my stick sits about an inch above my knee, so my
entire
hand is up in the air, even when sitting on 2 cushions totalling about
2-3"
of padding. All help appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Trimming Cranked Sticks |
Tony
I had the same situation. I ended up cutting 1.5 inches of the sticks. I
cut both the top and bottom equally so as not to put the bend too near the
tufnol bottom bushes or make the top too short for the Mac grip I used. It
works well and eases the problem of the top of the stick hitting my
ventilator, the centre tunnel and/or the panel.
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Assistant Mods Rep
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Davidghillam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Cranked Sticks |
In a message dated 10/15/04 6:17:39 AM GMT Daylight Time,
ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk writes:
. The range of movement required
isn't apparent until you have the wings fitted.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
And the range of space available isn't apparent until the instrument module
is fitted. I have a somewhat bulky wooden handgrip on my sticks and had to
trim the one on the passenger side down considerably to stop it contacting the
instrument module when full forward to port.
I also find the stick a bit of a stretch and, in the cruise, usually end up
holding it below the grip with wrist resting on left knee.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony
Renshaw
Subject: Europa-List: Trimming Cranked Sticks
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw
Gidday,
I am fitting up my control boots and sticks, and notice that the length
appears really long, so I am wondering if others have cut them down at
all?? The base of my stick sits about an inch above my knee, so my
entire
hand is up in the air, even when sitting on 2 cushions totalling about
2-3"
of padding. All help appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>My concern is my uncertainty as to what constitutes adequate "scuff sanding"
>in order to achieve required bonding.
> I note that because of the weave of the glass on the skins, a pattern
> developes with the
>high areas becoming whitish matte and the low areas remaining darker and
>somewhat glossy; my fear is that if I continue sanding so that the area
>becomes 100% "whitish matte", I will remove too much material and degrade
>the strength value of the existing glass skins.
>Fred
>A194
Fred
what I do is scuff with 60X first then go for a matt surface between the
fibers with Scotchbrite.
US Navy recommended this at a forum during Sun n Fun
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Cranked Sticks |
Tony,
I took 2" out of the middle of my control sticks. I made an internal bush
and reduxed the halves back together. I put some filler on the joint, and
with a coat of paint on top you can't tell.
Now that I have been flying the aircraft they seem to be the right length.
Paul - 120 hours and still grinning :-)
http://europa363.versadev.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
| Subject: | Hose clamp EGT probes |
All,
The hose clamp type probes that came with Grand Rapids EIS (for my 912S)
will have the probe tip very close to the pipe wall opposite to where they
enter the pipe. Ideally, a probe tip should be closer to the center, I
assume, but maybe the sensor here goes over more of the length of the probe
(have asked GR, but no reply yet).
Any experience with these EGTs that may be shared?
Any special consideration when fitting them, other than abt. 70 mm from
flange and maybe using a counter-sink bit to get a larger contact surface
between the pipe and the probe where it goes through?
Regards,
Svein
A225 - now in Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scuff sanding |
Hi Fred:
What you want to do is to scuff sand until all of the gloss is off the area
you are about to bond. The scratches that you make form a key that the epoxy
will flow into.
Do this job by hand. Electric sanders or hobby tools will remove too much
material too fast. I like to use a 60 grit paper to make quick work of scuff
sanding.
Tailwinds
Brian S
A276 Tri Gear. Texas
See my build photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net> |
The XS already has a duct with two radiators in it. Is there anyone flying
with a heater intake aft of the oil cooler on the XS? Does this provide some
real heat? Seems like CO would not be a problem if the air comes from this
duct.
I am thinking about an intake for two scat tubes, just aft of the oil
cooler, one for each footwell, to be controlled by eyeball vents on the
inside of the footwell. Simple and light. Comments on how well it might
work?
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cliff Shaw
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
Steve and All
I originally had a cockpit heater taking hot air off a plenum over the top
of the muffler. At Oshkosh this past summer, Dave Anderson and I traded
stories about CO in the cockpit. Because of this discussion, I have disabled
this heater set-up. I now think it unwise to take any air from inside the
engine cowling in any way. Only intake air in tight fitting ducting will be
used.
I am planning to install a small radiator in a home-made fiberglass air duct
and run hot water through it. (Not a new idea) Parts have not been specked
as yet and help along this line would be appreciated.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
>
> My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
> flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat
> for
> the cabin?
>
> Steve Crimm
> A058
> N15JN
>
>
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
That's exactly what I did (but I'm not yet flying). This duct is relatively
well sealed against CO intrusion but of course without actually flying I
can't be certain that his is a valid assumption. Not being interested in
doing the calculations I simply asked the factory and Neville, if I recall
correctly, replied that there was sufficient heat in the air behind the
coolers.
Contact me off-list if you would like details and pictures of my
installation, including fresh air ducted from the 914's turbo plenum.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin
Klinefelter
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
The XS already has a duct with two radiators in it. Is there anyone flying
with a heater intake aft of the oil cooler on the XS? Does this provide some
real heat? Seems like CO would not be a problem if the air comes from this
duct.
I am thinking about an intake for two scat tubes, just aft of the oil
cooler, one for each footwell, to be controlled by eyeball vents on the
inside of the footwell. Simple and light. Comments on how well it might
work?
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cliff Shaw
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
Steve and All
I originally had a cockpit heater taking hot air off a plenum over the top
of the muffler. At Oshkosh this past summer, Dave Anderson and I traded
stories about CO in the cockpit. Because of this discussion, I have disabled
this heater set-up. I now think it unwise to take any air from inside the
engine cowling in any way. Only intake air in tight fitting ducting will be
used.
I am planning to install a small radiator in a home-made fiberglass air duct
and run hot water through it. (Not a new idea) Parts have not been specked
as yet and help along this line would be appreciated.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
>
> My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
> flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat
> for
> the cabin?
>
> Steve Crimm
> A058
> N15JN
>
>
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
Yes, that is how my heater works. I flight tested it and it seemed to work
quite well. At the moment it is blanked off, awaiting the manufacture of
some revised firewall valves. The PFA strikes again!!!!
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gte.net>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
> The XS already has a duct with two radiators in it. Is there anyone flying
> with a heater intake aft of the oil cooler on the XS? Does this provide
> some
> real heat? Seems like CO would not be a problem if the air comes from this
> duct.
>
> I am thinking about an intake for two scat tubes, just aft of the oil
> cooler, one for each footwell, to be controlled by eyeball vents on the
> inside of the footwell. Simple and light. Comments on how well it might
> work?
>
> Kevin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cliff Shaw
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
>
> Steve and All
>
> I originally had a cockpit heater taking hot air off a plenum over the top
> of the muffler. At Oshkosh this past summer, Dave Anderson and I traded
> stories about CO in the cockpit. Because of this discussion, I have
> disabled
> this heater set-up. I now think it unwise to take any air from inside the
> engine cowling in any way. Only intake air in tight fitting ducting will
> be
> used.
>
> I am planning to install a small radiator in a home-made fiberglass air
> duct
> and run hot water through it. (Not a new idea) Parts have not been
> specked
> as yet and help along this line would be appreciated.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
>
>>
>>
>> My newly acquired XS doesn't have a cabin heater. For those of you not
>> flying in a non-tropical environment, what are us doing to provide heat
>> for
>> the cabin?
>>
>> Steve Crimm
>> A058
>> N15JN
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
>
> ---
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
Sure does and slightly increases the oil temp too! Recommended.
Rick Morris
G-RIKS XS Tri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuff sanding |
I find that a fine grit of abrasive (eg 120) works reasonably well, due
mostly to having thinner backing paper that reaches better into the weave
pattern. But I expect you've tried this already.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Scuff sanding
>
> Hi All,
>
> On the subject of "scuff sanding"...particularly in relation to
preparation
> for the 2" wide reinforcement tapes between the wing spar and skins...I've
> read thru the manual as well as the matronics search without finding any
> info which seemed relevant.
>
> My concern is my uncertainty as to what constitutes adequate "scuff
sanding"
> in order to achieve required bonding.
>
> As I sand the areas of the skins where the 2" reinf. tapes go, I note that
> because of the weave of the glass on the skins, a pattern developes with
the
> high areas becoming whitish matte and the low areas remaining darker and
> somewhat glossy; my fear is that if I continue sanding so that the area
> becomes 100% "whitish matte", I will remove too much material and degrade
> the strength value of the existing glass skins.
>
> I'd be grateful to learn whether or not a consensus has been reached on
this
> issue as well as any individual comments from "those who have gone before"
> me.
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
Hi All,
My understanding from reading Dave Anderson's post a few months ago was that
he took his air from behind the oil / water heaters as decribed by a few
others in this posting and he got a significant amount of CO. Dave, if your
readig this can you chime in here.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
All,
I have a plain vanilla 912 Engine.
I wish to incorporate OV protection and a Battery Contactor and some other
ideas of Bob Nuckolls so I have decided to adopt the Z-16 diagram in the
Aeroelectric Connection.
Notwithstanding this, I also want to include fused protection from each side
of the battery contactor to the main and endurance buses and also possibly
for the alternator output.
Without explaining why, I have decided I would like to protect these three
items with fuses (probably slow blow 25A? 30A?) and preferably a type with
lugs that are located on a stud on the fuse holder and retained with locking
nuts. Maybe I need ANL current limiters but I don't fully understand how
they work. Okay, I realise they obviously limit the current but I don't
understand what they require to go open circuit or if in fact they even do.
The 'connection' on one hand seems to use the terms 'cartridge fuses' and
'current limiters' interchangably and in other places seems to infer they
are different. Then somebody throws in the 'Fat' fuses and methinks, is
this just another name for the forgoing or something else again ? SO,
after going around and around in ever decreasing circles so many times now
that I have almost ended up my own you know where, I want somebody to please
tell me what I need and where I can get them.
Please take me by the hand, lead me to the place so that all I have to do is
bring the money . . . . . Oh, and tell me where I can see some pics too.
Unfortunatley, I don't live in a place where I can go and have a look around
and in a lot of cases, I seem to have trouble finding web sites that have
good pictures of their wares.
Finally, I am not opposed to Circuit Breakers but my criteria is that
whatever is used, it must be able to be firmly mounted, have good solid
connections for the wires and be suitable for the engine side of the
firewall. That's all I want ! Simple hey ?
Cheers all
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
Hi All,
Has anyone tried sealing the joints in the exhaust manifold pipes to reduce
the amount of CO escaping into the engine bay? There is evidence that a
substantial amount of exhaust gas escapes from these joints.
Regards,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
> Hi All,
>
> My understanding from reading Dave Anderson's post a few months ago was
that
> he took his air from behind the oil / water heaters as decribed by a few
> others in this posting and he got a significant amount of CO. Dave, if
your
> readig this can you chime in here.
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
William,
This is not a good idea unless you enjoy practicing your stainless welding
skills every weekend; the system will crack if denied the functioning of its
slip joints. Lubricating with copperslip often results in some partial
coking-up of the joint as the copper slip burns off. The smoke from the
burning copperslip also provides an indication of how much is getting into
the cockpit..
Shrinking down the female part of he slip joint may help if it is
particularly loose. However, the pipes aren't seamless or particularly
round, so a perfect joint is not easy to achieve.
Another job this winter?!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
> Hi All,
> Has anyone tried sealing the joints in the exhaust manifold pipes to
reduce
> the amount of CO escaping into the engine bay? There is evidence that a
> substantial amount of exhaust gas escapes from these joints.
> Regards,
> William
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cabin Heater
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > My understanding from reading Dave Anderson's post a few months ago was
> that
> > he took his air from behind the oil / water heaters as decribed by a few
> > others in this posting and he got a significant amount of CO. Dave, if
> your
> > readig this can you chime in here.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
Kingsley,
I used cartridge fuses but if I was to do it again I would make my own
fusible links. You can down load this off electric Bob's web site and the
parts can be purchased from B&C. If you wanted to purchase what you need
closer to home you will need to find a supplier for fiberglass sleeve, you
should already have everything else.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Scuffing for grip |
Cheers,
On the above subject, I just remembered someone advising me that to
scuff for max retention, Boeing instructed that the ideal test was whether
the scuffed surface would hold a lamina of water, rather than have it run
off or consolidate. It delays the application to wait for drying, but I
thought it might bear repeating?
Comments invited.
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Anderson" <dja767(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Turbo, heater et.al. |
This might be good along with the discussion of the heater.
I installed my heater idea which was to pull heat from behind the radiators. I
used the same logic that Kevin did about the lack of CO - fresh air streaming
down that duct, etc. On the way to OSH, it was providing heat which took the edge
off the cold air up there at 17,500 feet. I have a cowl flap that can keep
my temps up and that helps with the heat. The big problem was CO. I have an electronic
CO detector and it indicated CO in the cockpit along with the thing
that changes color eventually. In-flight troubleshooting led to the heater. A
little duct tape and the CO problem was solved.
Taking a closer look at it, I most certainly have a leak in the area of my turbo
charger. I don't remember seeing the evidence of an exhaust leak there in the
early days of the engine, but now there is no doubt. I cannot find anything
in the way of a crack in the exhaust. There is staining all over the area of the
turbo charger. I have noticed that the flange I put on the duct to tap into
that warm air does not make a good seal and since the pressure on the cockpit
is lower than the cowl, that would allow the exhaust leak to make its way into
the heater duct and up into the cockpit. I can check this theory by making a
gasket of some sort and seal that area off. If it eliminates the CO with the
heater on (I got the CO with the heater on or off), that would support the theory.
That leaves the issue of the turbo. I have heard form others that they have the
staining on the engine mount on the turbo side of the engine. Is this a common
situation? I am considering pulling the turbo when the weather gets bad and
start to look into other things that will down the airplane - changing to the
new water-less coolant for example.
What have others found in this area. I am hoping that this solves the CO problem,
since the heater is a very simple mod that doesn't unlove the coolant and doesn't
add very much weight.
Thanks.
Dave
A227
Mini U2
260 hours TT
255 hours engine time (how many short wing airplanes can make this claim?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbo, heater et.al. |
"In-flight troubleshooting led to the heater. A little duct tape and the CO
problem was solved."
Dave,
Could you be a little more specific on the position of the problem. Where
did you put the tape? Am I correct in assuming that the CO problem was
problem of the installation/turbo fault, rather than a fundamental problem
in the heater design.
regards,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Routing fuel lines thru the firewall |
Simon,
I used steel 90deg bulkhead fittings [AN parts] for the return fuel
line, and propose the same for fuel delivery line. I hope the steel will be
more resistant over time under engine fire conditions..............
Ferg A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
Kingsley
I ran across this information a while back.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/docs/aircraftwiring.doc
I would recommend you read it and reconsider the "old fashion" wiring plan
you are considering. The Rotax 912 is so simple and straight foreword there
is no good reason to make it too complicated. The Europa wiring diagram is
very well thought out. Your are not building an airliner.
Just my advice, worth what you paid (at least that much) :)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
Flying -- Could not get close enough to Mt. St Helens to see much. TV had
much better pictures.
> I have a plain vanilla 912 Engine.
>
> I wish to incorporate OV protection and a Battery Contactor and some other
> ideas of Bob Nuckolls so I have decided to adopt the Z-16 diagram in the
> Aeroelectric Connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater |
Hi
Looks 70% flyable on the 18 hr TAF. Shall I ring you tomorrow AM?
Regards
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbo, heater et.al. |
Dave;
Just this past week I was doing some maintenance and took a hard look at the muffler
and turbo. There is no residue of exhaust gases in the area of the turbo
and the muffler. I suspect that you have a gasket or something that is leaking.
Also have you looked into the possibility that the tab in the tunnel, that is bent
down to supply cold air to the turbo housing, may be somehow leaking the CO
into the cockpit.. Maybe a reversal of air flow around the turbo?????????
JIM BROWN
Dave Anderson wrote:
>
> This might be good along with the discussion of the heater.
>
> I installed my heater idea which was to pull heat from behind the radiators.
I used the same logic that Kevin did about the lack of CO - fresh air streaming
down that duct, etc. On the way to OSH, it was providing heat which took the
edge off the cold air up there at 17,500 feet. I have a cowl flap that can keep
my temps up and that helps with the heat. The big problem was CO. I have an
electronic CO detector and it indicated CO in the cockpit along with the thing
that changes color eventually. In-flight troubleshooting led to the heater.
A little duct tape and the CO problem was solved.
>
> Taking a closer look at it, I most certainly have a leak in the area of my turbo
charger. I don't remember seeing the evidence of an exhaust leak there in
the early days of the engine, but now there is no doubt. I cannot find anything
in the way of a crack in the exhaust. There is staining all over the area of
the turbo charger. I have noticed that the flange I put on the duct to tap into
that warm air does not make a good seal and since the pressure on the cockpit
is lower than the cowl, that would allow the exhaust leak to make its way into
the heater duct and up into the cockpit. I can check this theory by making
a gasket of some sort and seal that area off. If it eliminates the CO with the
heater on (I got the CO with the heater on or off), that would support the theory.
>
> That leaves the issue of the turbo. I have heard form others that they have the
staining on the engine mount on the turbo side of the engine. Is this a common
situation? I am considering pulling the turbo when the weather gets bad and
start to look into other things that will down the airplane - changing to the
new water-less coolant for example.
>
> What have others found in this area. I am hoping that this solves the CO problem,
since the heater is a very simple mod that doesn't unlove the coolant and
doesn't add very much weight.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dave
> A227
> Mini U2
> 260 hours TT
> 255 hours engine time (how many short wing airplanes can make this claim?)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
Cliff Shaw wrote:
>
> I ran across this information a while back. I would recommend
> you read it and reconsider the "old fashion" wiring plan you
> are considering.
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/docs/aircraftwiring.doc
Not bad, but I suggest referring also to Bob Nuckolls' review of it.
It has some errors and bad advice, he says:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Aircraft_Wiring_For_Smart_People_Reviewed.pdf
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Then we can read the critique of the review: : )
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/discus/messages/2/806.html
Steved.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Viet Newspaper" <info(at)danviet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Thank you for your email |
Thank you,
We have received your email.
It will be attended to as soon as we possibly can.
Have a nice day!
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Chung toi da nhan duoc email cua ban.
Chung toi se hoi dap trong thoi gian som nhat.
Chuc ban mot ngay vui ve.
Tuan bao Dan Viet.
(This is an auto reply message)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Anderson" <dja767(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Turbo and heater |
Continuing the discussion of the turbo - I taped over the inlets to the cabin of
the heater and that stopped the CO from getting in.
I just went through a serious effort to seal up any pathway for cowl air to get
into the heater system - holes in the duct, gaps between the oil lines and the
baffle - even the little hole in the corner. I just taxi tested it with and
without the heater on and both cases showed no CO in the cockpit. We have weather
today, so I didn't fly. I'll be finding out if the heater now works OK. Having
the exhaust leak around the turbo area helps to determine if the heater is
isolated from cowl gasses. I knew I had that leak for a reason!
Also one more thing - I get water splashing up through the slots in the center
console while taxiing in wet weather. Has anyone out there experienced the same
thing? Is there a simple solution to that. I have a few ideas, but.....
Dave
A227 Mini U2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com> |
| Subject: | Europa Mono-Wheel Trailer |
Does anyone have contact information for the fabricator of the mono-wheel
trailer Europa sold that was made in Europe?
Thanks,
Steve Crimm
N15JN
A058
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04 |
>Turbo, heater et.al.
>
>
>This might be good along with the discussion of the heater.
>
>I installed my heater idea which was to pull heat from behind the radiators. I
>used the same logic that Kevin did about the lack of CO - fresh air streaming
>down that duct, etc. On the way to OSH, it was providing heat which took
>the edge
>off the cold air up there at 17,500 feet. I have a cowl flap that can keep
>my temps up and that helps with the heat. The big problem was CO. I have
>an electronic
>CO detector and it indicated CO in the cockpit
I am disappointed with the design of the cooling duct on the XS. IMHO (in
other words my guess) the duct takes in about twice as much air as it needs
but doesn't duct it smoothly, neither is it properly sealed to keep CO etc
where it belongs. Not all the air coming in goes for cooling.
Look at the duct on a BanBi they don't overheat AFAIK. Inlet area is much
smaller, so is outlet.
The duct has to smoothly recover the pressure of the entering air, push it
through the radiators, and nowhere else, except the cabin for heating. then
accelerate it back to flying speed or better still, greater than flying
speed. I wish someone would refine the design a little. It would make the
airplane look even prettier. We should not be too hard on Ivan, he was
under pressure to generate some cash at the time. Quite a few folks jobs
depended on him not making too many bum decisions. Pity it was all wasted
when he was moved aside. (my view from some distance)
Graham
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbo and heater |
Dave,
I can't say I have the answer in advance (because it's untried by
me) but I have copied the 'brush' which fills my Volvo gear change lever
slot. It has the same exposure to winter winds and water as do the Europa
slots. The brush is available in 36inch lengths and in various sizes at
McMaster-Carr under "conveyor strip brushes and cleaners" page 1097. As well
I have found another "flap" material which is fairly resistant Buna-N
[Nitrile] (food quality) medium soft white 2inch-wide x 1/8inch strip,
36inches long, page 3275. It has an adhesive backing but I intend to ignore
that and install alu strip to attach - flap slots etc.
These are not perfect answers because (a) the brush conforms to the
most insistent displacement over the year(s) - replace? - and (b) the
nitrile strip will probably be stiffer and not so easily partially-displaced
in cold climates.
I welcome any alternative to covering these potential CO entriy
spots - or even if necessary.
Ferg
A064
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Anderson" <dja767(at)charter.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Turbo and heater
|
| Continuing the discussion of the turbo - I taped over the inlets to the
cabin of the heater and that stopped the CO from getting in.
|
| I just went through a serious effort to seal up any pathway for cowl air
to get into the heater system - holes in the duct, gaps between the oil
lines and the baffle - even the little hole in the corner. I just taxi
tested it with and without the heater on and both cases showed no CO in the
cockpit. We have weather today, so I didn't fly. I'll be finding out if the
heater now works OK. Having the exhaust leak around the turbo area helps to
determine if the heater is isolated from cowl gasses. I knew I had that leak
for a reason!
|
| Also one more thing - I get water splashing up through the slots in the
center console while taxiing in wet weather. Has anyone out there
experienced the same thing? Is there a simple solution to that. I have a few
ideas, but.....
|
|
| Dave
| A227 Mini U2
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Auto-squelch on Icom A-200 Comm |
Hi Guys,
As a winter project, I'm thinking of installing a new transponder - my Terra
unit is going to cost way to much to even bench test it - yet alone repair it.
I'd rather spend a little more and get a brand new Garmin GX-327. I will also
replace the Terra comm which works OK but would need to be moved a little to
make room for the new Tpndr. I thought I would go for the Icom A-200 as it
seems to be a good unit.
The only question I have (apart from am I making good choices) is the Icom's
Auto-squelch feature. I found my Terra unit picks up the engine noise though
the mike and normally I use the squelch control until it disappears. With no
squelch control knob on the Icom unit how good will it be on controlling ambient
noise but not the passengers voice?
Anyone with any experience with the unit?
Regards,
Martin Tuck
Europa N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Turbo and heater |
Hi! Ferg.
A more substantial similar brush like material is "Cats Wiskers" used
on HGV mudguards for anti road spray reduction it is very robust and the
brush material is about 3" long. In the UK it is marketed by Capital
Rubber & Plastics Ltd. Unit 11 Deans Factory Est. Lambs Lane Rainham
Essex Tel:- ..
+44 (0) 1708 55 22 14
They probably have minimum order levels so it would need group purchase
and distribution. However for the mono wheel retract slot I think it
would be useful, They also have aluminium strip (curved or straight)
into which it slides for mounting.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Turbo and heater
Dave,
I can't say I have the answer in advance (because it's untried
by
me) but I have copied the 'brush' which fills my Volvo gear change lever
slot. It has the same exposure to winter winds and water as do the
Europa
slots. The brush is available in 36inch lengths and in various sizes at
McMaster-Carr under "conveyor strip brushes and cleaners" page 1097. As
well
I have found another "flap" material which is fairly resistant Buna-N
[Nitrile] (food quality) medium soft white 2inch-wide x 1/8inch strip,
36inches long, page 3275. It has an adhesive backing but I intend to
ignore
that and install alu strip to attach - flap slots etc.
These are not perfect answers because (a) the brush conforms to
the
most insistent displacement over the year(s) - replace? - and (b) the
nitrile strip will probably be stiffer and not so easily
partially-displaced
in cold climates.
I welcome any alternative to covering these potential CO entriy
spots - or even if necessary.
Ferg
A064
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Anderson" <dja767(at)charter.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Turbo and heater
|
| Continuing the discussion of the turbo - I taped over the inlets to
the
cabin of the heater and that stopped the CO from getting in.
|
| I just went through a serious effort to seal up any pathway for cowl
air
to get into the heater system - holes in the duct, gaps between the oil
lines and the baffle - even the little hole in the corner. I just taxi
tested it with and without the heater on and both cases showed no CO in
the
cockpit. We have weather today, so I didn't fly. I'll be finding out if
the
heater now works OK. Having the exhaust leak around the turbo area helps
to
determine if the heater is isolated from cowl gasses. I knew I had that
leak
for a reason!
|
| Also one more thing - I get water splashing up through the slots in
the
center console while taxiing in wet weather. Has anyone out there
experienced the same thing? Is there a simple solution to that. I have a
few
ideas, but.....
|
|
| Dave
| A227 Mini U2
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Europa Mono-Wheel Trailer |
| From: | "Tim Weert" <tim.weert(at)hccnet.nl> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Hi Steve,
I discouverded that the following company made the monowheel and trygear Europa
Trailers:
M tools and trailers
Outgang Road
Pickering
North Yorkshire Y018 7EL
tel 01751 473 493
There are also other solutions, may be easier, cheaper and near-by....
Regards,
Tim Weert.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://forum.okhuijsen.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Viet Newspaper" <info(at)danviet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Thank you for your email |
Thank you,
We have received your email.
It will be attended to as soon as we possibly can.
Have a nice day!
Cam on ban,
Chung toi da nhan duoc email cua ban.
Chung toi se hoi dap trong thoi gian som nhat.
Chuc ban mot ngay vui ve.
Tuan bao Dan Viet.
(This is an auto reply message)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbo and heater |
Dave
I took a piece of flat silicone rubber (the kind used on engine baffles) I then
trimmed it to cover the retract slot. I then cut another piece 3/8 inch high
,and used instant glue and installed it down the length of the first piece.
Looking at the end it looks like a "T". Simply lay it in the slot on take off,
remove it in flight, and once gear is extended for landing, lay the strip back
in the slot.
Jim Brown
N398JB
Dave Anderson wrote:
>
> Continuing the discussion of the turbo - I taped over the inlets to the cabin
of the heater and that stopped the CO from getting in.
>
> I just went through a serious effort to seal up any pathway for cowl air to get
into the heater system - holes in the duct, gaps between the oil lines and
the baffle - even the little hole in the corner. I just taxi tested it with and
without the heater on and both cases showed no CO in the cockpit. We have weather
today, so I didn't fly. I'll be finding out if the heater now works OK.
Having the exhaust leak around the turbo area helps to determine if the heater
is isolated from cowl gasses. I knew I had that leak for a reason!
>
> Also one more thing - I get water splashing up through the slots in the center
console while taxiing in wet weather. Has anyone out there experienced the same
thing? Is there a simple solution to that. I have a few ideas, but.....
>
> Dave
> A227 Mini U2
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04 |
>
> I am disappointed with the design of the cooling duct on the XS. IMHO (in
> other words my guess) the duct takes in about twice as much air as it
needs
> but doesn't duct it smoothly, neither is it properly sealed to keep CO etc
> where it belongs. Not all the air coming in goes for cooling.
> Look at the duct on a BanBi they don't overheat AFAIK. Inlet area is much
> smaller, so is outlet.
> The duct has to smoothly recover the pressure of the entering air, push it
> through the radiators, and nowhere else, except the cabin for heating.
then
> accelerate it back to flying speed or better still, greater than flying
> speed. I wish someone would refine the design a little. It would make the
> airplane look even prettier. We should not be too hard on Ivan, he was
> under pressure to generate some cash at the time. Quite a few folks jobs
> depended on him not making too many bum decisions. Pity it was all wasted
> when he was moved aside. (my view from some distance)
> Graham
> Graham
>
>
John Scott at Cambridge shares your opinion and did say that he was
working on the design of an XS cowling to incorporate a smaller air inlet
specifically designed to optimise the thrust from the propeller.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
Greetings all,
I was wondering who folks are using for seat cushions? The upolterer John
Hurst has been using contacted me about three months ago and said he'd send me
fabric samples, but after several calls and three months of waiting I've
received nothing from him. This leads me to believe the guy is less than reliable
and
if the samples come today I'd be very unlikely to use this guy. I know about
Oregon Aero, but I'm trying to find someone that isn't quite so proud of their
work.
Thanks in advance for your input.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Rudder mounted, currently sanding fin flanges to get proper throw)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
John,
My advice would be to get it done locally. Look in the Yellow Pages under 'Fabrics'
and 'Upholsterers' etc. Any upholsterer can sew up some removable cushion
covers to your design. There is a wide range of materials available. Ideally,
try and locate the supplier for Companies that customize and reupholster cars.
Upholsterers also supply foam to any size and any type. I use that stuff that comes
under different names, here they call it memory foam. I have just added another
loose 3 inch cushion. It squashes down to nothing but it is very comfortable
(I am 6 ' 2"), and gives excellent thigh support.
Karl
From: TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: Seat cushions
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 11:27:16 EDT
-- Europa-List message posted by: TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Greetings all,
I was wondering who folks are using for seat cushions? The upolterer John
Hurst has been using contacted me about three months ago and said he'd send me
fabric samples, but after several calls and three months of waiting I've
received nothing from him. This leads me to believe the guy is less than reliable
and
if the samples come today I'd be very unlikely to use this guy. I know about
Oregon Aero, but I'm trying to find someone that isn't quite so proud of their
work.
Thanks in advance for your input.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Rudder mounted, currently sanding fin flanges to get proper throw)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04 |
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
on 10/17/04 3:39 PM, Graham Singleton at graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk wrote:
> I am disappointed with the design of the cooling duct on the XS. IMHO (in
> other words my guess) the duct takes in about twice as much air as it needs
> but doesn't duct it smoothly, neither is it properly sealed to keep CO etc
> where it belongs. Not all the air coming in goes for cooling.
> Look at the duct on a BanBi they don't overheat AFAIK. Inlet area is much
> smaller, so is outlet.
> The duct has to smoothly recover the pressure of the entering air, push it
> through the radiators, and nowhere else, except the cabin for heating. then
> accelerate it back to flying speed or better still, greater than flying
> speed. I wish someone would refine the design a little. It would make the
> airplane look even prettier. We should not be too hard on Ivan, he was
> under pressure to generate some cash at the time. Quite a few folks jobs
> depended on him not making too many bum decisions. Pity it was all wasted
> when he was moved aside. (my view from some distance)
> Graham
Graham,
I concur; I suspect you would be pleased w/ Alex Bowman's cowling for his
CAM 125 installation which segues into a very slick monowheel fairing mod.
Neil Varcoe at vortac.shaw.ca has production molds and some awesome in
flight photos which I will forward to you; regrettably, I have yet to master
the computer skills to post such photos on our Europa builder photo site.
Fred
A194
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04 |
My "XS" inlet has been modified to half the CSA of the original XS with
dimension of 8" x 1 3/4". This is similar to the area of the Ban-bi. Seems
to work OK (in fact it tends to overcool).
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Anderson" <randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04
>
>
>
> >
> > I am disappointed with the design of the cooling duct on the XS. IMHO
(in
> > other words my guess) the duct takes in about twice as much air as it
> needs
> > but doesn't duct it smoothly, neither is it properly sealed to keep CO
etc
> > where it belongs. Not all the air coming in goes for cooling.
> > Look at the duct on a BanBi they don't overheat AFAIK. Inlet area is
much
> > smaller, so is outlet.
> > The duct has to smoothly recover the pressure of the entering air, push
it
> > through the radiators, and nowhere else, except the cabin for heating.
> then
> > accelerate it back to flying speed or better still, greater than flying
> > speed. I wish someone would refine the design a little. It would make
the
> > airplane look even prettier. We should not be too hard on Ivan, he was
> > under pressure to generate some cash at the time. Quite a few folks jobs
> > depended on him not making too many bum decisions. Pity it was all
wasted
> > when he was moved aside. (my view from some distance)
> > Graham
> > Graham
> >
> >
> John Scott at Cambridge shares your opinion and did say that he was
> working on the design of an XS cowling to incorporate a smaller air inlet
> specifically designed to optimise the thrust from the propeller.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Nextel Spray Suede |
Has anyone used the above product on their aeroplane - If so, is it easy stuff
to use? The panel on our classic needs some re-work so I'm going to buy a set
of blank panels from Europa and cut the holes where we want them. The instrument
pod is finished in Nextel so, it would be nice to spray the new panel to match
(as long as its reasonably straight forward).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04 |
Duncan,
Do you have any before and after speed numbers ?
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04
>
> My "XS" inlet has been modified to half the CSA of the original XS with
> dimension of 8" x 1 3/4". This is similar to the area of the Ban-bi. Seems
> to work OK (in fact it tends to overcool).
>
> Duncan McF.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl> (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam(at)matronics.com>) |
| Subject: | Where to buy a Floscan |
of Matt Dralle )
I am not there yet but I happened to come across the following that may be
of interest to someone:
FLOSCAN 264 SENSOR ONLY
new number 201B-9
ALL other approved inboard & I/O engines rated from 50 to 350 hp.
Also fits all Evinrude Ficht and Mercury Optimax outboard engines from 90
hp to 250 hp.
Also recommended for all carbureted and EFI outboards rated below 150 hp.
See Gas Models section for more details.
11964
Sale $128.92
at:
http://www.brokenlegdave.com/Manufacture/FloScan/floscan_home.htm
and for $125.00
at:
http://www.scubasteve.biz/store/manufacturers/floscan/floscan.htm
and less expensive still:
FLOSCAN 231 SENSOR ONLY
ALL carbureted and EFI outboard engines rated from 150 hp and above.
11963
Sale $99
at the same two places.
According to
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/pdf/efis_%20one_installation_guide_216h.pdf
the 201B is good to 28 gals/hr
the 231 is good to 40 gals/hr
According to floscan the 264 has integrated damping
The 264 is probably better when reciprocating type pumps are involved
The 231 may well be ok with the 914 fuel pumps.
Jan de Jong
#461,
getting towards the end of the blue bits,
looking somewhat too far ahead.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
Paul McAllister wrote:
> I used cartridge fuses but if I was to do it again I would make my own
> fusible links.
Paul,
Could you tell me please what sort of cartridge fuses you used and the
method of retainment and connection to wires.
What do you see as the advantage with fusible links? Europa call out a 10
awg wire to the Main Bus which means a 14 awg F.L. would have to be used.
This is much larger than what B&C or Bob Nuckolls seem to like ?? B&C do
say on their website though to contact them if you wish to go bigger than a
20 awg F.L.
I had gone cold on fusible links because e.g. in the case of a 16 awg feed,
the current is limited to that of a 20 awg wire. It seems to me by using a
fuse or CB, the full current carrying potential of the wire can be realised.
Tell me if I'm wrong please.
Regards
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
Cliff,
Apologies for being so long winded in replying. My comments embedded below.
> I ran across this information a while back.
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/docs/aircraftwiring.doc
> I would recommend you read it and reconsider the "old fashion" wiring plan
> you are considering.
I have read this document and also seriously considered the Exp Bus quite
some time back. I am not vehemently opposed to the idea but there were a
few reasons I decided not to go that way not the least of which was that if
it ever died for some reason, I would have to return it to the US and have
nothing in the meantime. Not to mention the cost of sending it back. I
therefore feel more comfortable doing it the 'old fashioned' way because if
anything goes wrong, I will hopefully be able to fix it.
> The Rotax 912 is so simple and straight foreword there
> is no good reason to make it too complicated. The Europa wiring diagram is
> very well thought out.
True Cliff. My main concern with the Europa circuit diagram was that it had
no battery contactor and in the event of the starter contactor remaining
closed for any reason, there was no way to stop the propeller flying around
until the battery was flat. I also learned of the recommended Europa Club
mod for the Crowbar OV protection and when I read the Aeroelectric
Connection, I found that Figure Z-16 was essentially the same as the Europa
Circuit and included the battery contactor and OV module. Hence my decision
to adopt it.
Confession. To save confusion for anybody familiar with Z-16 in my original
post, I said I wanted a fuse for the feed to the Endurance Bus. Truth is, I
am not having an Endurance Bus and I want the fuse to feed the Main Bus. I
am substituting a small Battery Bus in lieu of the Endurance Bus.
The basic Z-16 circuit with my small modification is not rocket science
mate.
> Your are not building an airliner.
Not so sure about this Cliff. With the amount of time I have spent on it
now I'm starting to wonder !
> Just my advice, worth what you paid (at least that much) :)
Yes Cliff, happy to say I can afford what I paid too ! Much appreciated.
Now can somebody tell me what sort of fuse or CB to use please ? Hasn't
anybody else used fuses in the main power distribution as per the Europa
diagram ?
Cheers
Kingsley
Mono Classic (Classic Mono?) 281 in Oz.
PS Within 6 hours of posting my plea, I discovered an article by Bob
Nuckolls that explained the difference between Current Limiters and Fat
Fuses. Makes me feel better now I realise there must have been others
confused too about these devices.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/anl/anlvsjjs.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
> Now can somebody tell me what sort of fuse or CB to use please ? Hasn't
> anybody else used fuses in the main power distribution as per the Europa
> diagram ?
I used the Maxifuse 1299(Part No 219-3564) with its' fuseholder (Part No
250-6285) both from RS Components.
regards,
Mike (G-JULZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Nextel Spray Suede |
Peter, Nextel gives an excellent finish which is very durable. My
understanding is that it is highly toxic and should be used only with proper
breathing gear. Also I think it was only sold to commercial outlets, but no
doubt you could get round that. It sprayed on easily enough in the hands of
my local expert. Regards, David Joyce G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Nextel Spray Suede
>
> Has anyone used the above product on their aeroplane - If so, is it easy
stuff to use? The panel on our classic needs some re-work so I'm going to
buy a set of blank panels from Europa and cut the holes where we want them.
The instrument pod is finished in Nextel so, it would be nice to spray the
new panel to match (as long as its reasonably straight forward).
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Doctors.net.uk e-mail protects you from viruses and unsolicited messages
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
Michael Parking wrote :
> I used the Maxifuse 1299(Part No 219-3564) with its' fuseholder (Part
No
> 250-6285) both from RS Components.
Michael,
Many thanks for this info. Have found the Maxifuse okay on the
Australian RS-Components website but unfortunately can't find any
fuseholder with the Part No 250-6285.
Could you please confirm the 250-6285 Part No please Mike.
Thanks again, at least I'm now half way there !
Regards
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Nextel Spray Suede |
Peter, I took my panel to Matthew, Russell Great Edstone, Kirkbymoorside. He
did a great job and reasonably priced. choice of 26 colours.
Danny Shepherd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Nextel Spray Suede
>
> Has anyone used the above product on their aeroplane - If so, is it easy
stuff to use? The panel on our classic needs some re-work so I'm going to
buy a set of blank panels from Europa and cut the holes where we want them.
The instrument pod is finished in Nextel so, it would be nice to spray the
new panel to match (as long as its reasonably straight forward).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Graham" <nigel_graham(at)btclick.com> |
| Subject: | Aviation Definitions |
Hi guys,
It's been too long since somebody posted some frivolity.
Thanks and credit to Andy Faulkner.
Airspeed - An aircraft's speed. (Deduct 25% when listening to a
homebuilder).
Bank - The people who own most of a pilot's car.
Carburettor Icing - A phenomenon reported by pilots just after they run out
of fuel.
Cone of Confusion - An area about the size of Hampshire located near the
final approach beacon at airport.
Crab - A VFR instructor's attitude on an IFR day.
Destination - Geographical location 30 minutes beyond the pilot's bladder
saturation point.
Engine Failure - A condition that occurs when all fuel tanks mysteriously
become filled with low-octane air.
Firewall - Section of the aircraft specifically designed to funnel heat and
smoke into the cockpit.
Flight - FollowingFormation flying
Glide Distance - Half the distance from an airplane to the nearest
emergency landing field.
Hobbs - An instrument which creates an emergency situation should it fail
during dual instruction.
Hydroplane - An aircraft designed to land long on a short wet runway.
IFR - A method of flying by needle and horoscope.
Lean Mixture - Non-alcoholic beer.
Nanosecond - The time delay between the low fuel warning light coming on
and the onset of carburettor icing.
Parachutes - The two 'chutes in a Stearman.
Parasitic Drag - A pilot who bums a ride and then complains about the
service.
Range - Usually about three miles short of the destination.
Rich Mixture - What you order at another pilots promotion party.
Roger - Used when you're not too sure what else to say on the radio.
Spoilers - CAA or FAA inspectors.
Stall - Technique used to explain to the bank why your car payment is late.
Turn and Bank Indicator - An instrument largely ignored by pilots.
Useful Load - Volumetric capacity of the aircraft, disregarding weight.
....more at:
http://www.andyfaulkner.fsnet.co.uk/aviation/humour/aviation_humour.htm
Cheers
Nigel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HelgeandGabby(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MJKTuck(at)cs.com |
BODY:, Information(at)matronics.com, on(at)matronics.com, mortgages(at)matronics.com
Hi Martin,
I see from the Europa-List Digest that you consider replacing your Terra comm
!
I was builder nu 72 and compleated my Europa in 97. I made the same mistake
as yourself by installing Terra equipment - nothing but problems. The
transponder is now working ok after extensive/costly repair in the UK. However,
the
Terra comm is still a problem. I have already replaced the unit with a
second-hand one, but to no use. I am at the moment coping with a hand held unit
-not
very satisfactory. Both units ( TX and TRT) are mounted in a dual tray. Replacing
either of the units is a major job to the main panel for which I am not too
keen. I might be interested in buying your Terra comm if it is still working OK
and it does not mean taking out a second mortgage!!!
Regards
Helge
G-BWYD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>>> Many thanks for this info. Have found the Maxifuse okay on the
Australian RS-Components website but unfortunately can't find any
fuseholder with the Part No 250-6285.
>>> Could you please confirm the 250-6285 Part No please Mike.
Or try Farnell...
30A Fuse 302-9270
Fuseholder 302-9244
Fuseholder Cover 302-9256
They had them in stock on Monday in Australia when I ordered some for
Gavin Lee
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04 |
No. But if you work out the approx possible drag reduction it doesn't amount
to much. A few percent? Which would give a few percent extra mph. Probably
not easily measured, but when compounded by lots of other drag reduction
efforts, it all adds up.
My Europa isn't particularly fast (143knts max. S&L) but does seem to use
less fuel than many.
No logic there.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04
>
> Duncan,
>
> Do you have any before and after speed numbers ?
>
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/16/04
>
>
>
> >
> > My "XS" inlet has been modified to half the CSA of the original XS with
> > dimension of 8" x 1 3/4". This is similar to the area of the Ban-bi.
Seems
> > to work OK (in fact it tends to overcool).
> >
> > Duncan McF.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy a Floscan |
The failure mode of the diaphragm in the 264 damped flow sensor needs to be
considered before fitting. i.e. if it develops a leak then fuel and fuel
pressure will be lost.
I suppose the vent for the non-fuel side of the damper could be connected to
a closed vessel.
Duncan McF.
PS Does Broken Leg Dave really exist; I never heard of anyone getting a
response from him. Caveat emptor.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan de Jong (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam(at)matronics.com>)"
Subject: Europa-List: Where to buy a Floscan
way of Matt Dralle )
>
> I am not there yet but I happened to come across the following that may be
> of interest to someone:
>
> FLOSCAN 264 SENSOR ONLY
> new number 201B-9
> ALL other approved inboard & I/O engines rated from 50 to 350 hp.
> Also fits all Evinrude Ficht and Mercury Optimax outboard engines from 90
> hp to 250 hp.
> Also recommended for all carbureted and EFI outboards rated below 150 hp.
> See Gas Models section for more details.
> 11964
> Sale $128.92
> at:
> http://www.brokenlegdave.com/Manufacture/FloScan/floscan_home.htm
>
> and for $125.00
> at:
> http://www.scubasteve.biz/store/manufacturers/floscan/floscan.htm
>
> and less expensive still:
>
> FLOSCAN 231 SENSOR ONLY
> ALL carbureted and EFI outboard engines rated from 150 hp and above.
> 11963
> Sale $99
> at the same two places.
>
> According to
>
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/pdf/efis_%20one_installation_guide_216h.
pdf
> the 201B is good to 28 gals/hr
> the 231 is good to 40 gals/hr
>
> According to floscan the 264 has integrated damping
>
> The 264 is probably better when reciprocating type pumps are involved
> The 231 may well be ok with the 914 fuel pumps.
>
> Jan de Jong
> #461,
> getting towards the end of the blue bits,
> looking somewhat too far ahead.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links ??? |
I used the FH560 fuse shown towards the bottom of the page at:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/fuse-1/fuse-1.html
This has bolt-on ring terminals and takes a bolt-in strip fuse, available in
a variety of sizes.
The plastic moulding has survived unscathed forward of the firewall.
Don't know where you would get one in Oz.
Probably made in Taiwan!
Downside of CBs is a higher voltage drop than a fuse, which can be
significant in some circuits (eg some configurations of alternator field
current).
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuses, (Fast, Slow or Fat), CB's or Fusible Links
???
>
> Cliff,
>
> Apologies for being so long winded in replying. My comments embedded
below.
>
> > I ran across this information a while back.
> > http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/docs/aircraftwiring.doc
> > I would recommend you read it and reconsider the "old fashion" wiring
plan
> > you are considering.
>
> I have read this document and also seriously considered the Exp Bus quite
> some time back. I am not vehemently opposed to the idea but there were a
> few reasons I decided not to go that way not the least of which was that
if
> it ever died for some reason, I would have to return it to the US and have
> nothing in the meantime. Not to mention the cost of sending it back. I
> therefore feel more comfortable doing it the 'old fashioned' way because
if
> anything goes wrong, I will hopefully be able to fix it.
>
> > The Rotax 912 is so simple and straight foreword there
> > is no good reason to make it too complicated. The Europa wiring diagram
is
> > very well thought out.
>
> True Cliff. My main concern with the Europa circuit diagram was that it
had
> no battery contactor and in the event of the starter contactor remaining
> closed for any reason, there was no way to stop the propeller flying
around
> until the battery was flat. I also learned of the recommended Europa Club
> mod for the Crowbar OV protection and when I read the Aeroelectric
> Connection, I found that Figure Z-16 was essentially the same as the
Europa
> Circuit and included the battery contactor and OV module. Hence my
decision
> to adopt it.
>
> Confession. To save confusion for anybody familiar with Z-16 in my
original
> post, I said I wanted a fuse for the feed to the Endurance Bus. Truth is,
I
> am not having an Endurance Bus and I want the fuse to feed the Main Bus.
I
> am substituting a small Battery Bus in lieu of the Endurance Bus.
>
> The basic Z-16 circuit with my small modification is not rocket science
> mate.
>
> > Your are not building an airliner.
>
> Not so sure about this Cliff. With the amount of time I have spent on it
> now I'm starting to wonder !
>
> > Just my advice, worth what you paid (at least that much) :)
>
> Yes Cliff, happy to say I can afford what I paid too ! Much appreciated.
>
>
> Now can somebody tell me what sort of fuse or CB to use please ? Hasn't
> anybody else used fuses in the main power distribution as per the Europa
> diagram ?
>
> Cheers
> Kingsley
> Mono Classic (Classic Mono?) 281 in Oz.
>
>
> PS Within 6 hours of posting my plea, I discovered an article by Bob
> Nuckolls that explained the difference between Current Limiters and Fat
> Fuses. Makes me feel better now I realise there must have been others
> confused too about these devices.
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/anl/anlvsjjs.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>Has anyone used the above product on their aeroplane - If so, is it easy stuff
>to use? The panel on our classic needs some re-work so I'm going to buy a set
>of blank panels from Europa and cut the holes where we want them. The
>instrument
>pod is finished in Nextel so, it would be nice to spray the new panel to match
>(as long as its reasonably straight forward).
Nextel is a very specialized paint, needs its own primer and although it
looks very nice when new, tends to pick up dirt and dust easier than other
finishes. You cannot buy less than a 1 liter kit or both primer and finish.
I would prefer to black anodize the aluminium parts, that looks equaly
smart IMHO
graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Popenoe" <cpops(at)verizon.net> |
I agree with Graham--I have used Nextel and would never use it on a panel.
It looks great when fresh, but you don't want to touch it, because it will
pick up fingerprints and smudges with the greatest of ease! Doesn't clean
up easily, either. I have done my Avid panel in plain old matt finish
black, which is much superior in practicality to Nextel.
Pops
A036 -- On hold at the present
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Singleton
Subject: Europa-List: Nextel
-->
>Has anyone used the above product on their aeroplane - If so, is it
>easy stuff to use? The panel on our classic needs some re-work so I'm
>going to buy a set of blank panels from Europa and cut the holes where
>we want them. The instrument pod is finished in Nextel so, it would be
>nice to spray the new panel to match (as long as its reasonably
>straight forward).
Nextel is a very specialized paint, needs its own primer and although it
looks very nice when new, tends to pick up dirt and dust easier than other
finishes. You cannot buy less than a 1 liter kit or both primer and finish.
I would prefer to black anodize the aluminium parts, that looks equaly
smart IMHO
graham
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy a Floscan |
Gidday,
I have recently purchased a Floscan from BrokenLeg Dave. He advertises a
Floscan 264 with built in dampening, but actually doesn't sell it. Why?
Well it isn't made anymore. (Source, Floscan) The model supplied 201 B-9,
is the model used by the EIS manufacturers, which is important because
whatever you buy and install needs to receive a signal and then calibrate
it into a fuel flow. As such it is imperative to get a model that is
compatible with the EIS system you intend purchasing. I have been in
contact with Dynon to attempt to ensure that their new EIS is capable of
being connected to our Europa Capacitance gauges, and I should do the same
about these Floscans too. From Dave by the way, mine came with a circular
dampening device and T for plumbing, the model stamped on the Floscan being
20B. I am assured it is the 201 B-9, but I wish the model was stamped in
full on it so that I knew definitively.
Quote:
"The 264 sensor did have an internal pulsation damper. The 20B sensor,
which is the entire assembly you pictured, uses a 201B sensor which does
not have that internal damper, thus the external damper that gets
attached to the outlet."
I have contact details at Floscan but would prefer not to circulate them.
If anyone wants to know more about Floscans, maybe I can be of assistance
in mediating the information, and save annoying people. They appear a bit
touchy, so best not to annoy them and not get the answers we need.
10/19/2004, you wrote:
>way of Matt Dralle )
October 03, 2004 - October 19, 2004
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-eh