Europa-Archive.digest.vol-em
January 02, 2005 - January 21, 2005
My TP11 Torque tube bearings are not centered as the illustration on page
18-4 shows. They are proud towards the inside of the fuselage. Only about 1/8
inch over hang on the outside. My measurements from outer edge bulkhead to the
other outer edges is dead on 255 mm per instructions.
Anyone else have this same experience? Could this be a problem?
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: TP11 Torque tube bearings |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Brian,
TP12s could have been drilled into the torque tube in the wrong spot. I'm in the
hanger now so I can't pop out and get the measurements. If they're not posted
I'll get them for you tomorrow.
Put everything together, torque tube, TP-11, TP-12 and pin. Then measure TP-11s
from center to center. We can only hope it's 255 mm.
I'm not sure what the calcs where for TP-11 and keeping it in place, maybe 1/8
is ok, but is sounds light.
Chat Later,
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au |
| Subject: | Rudder Length Dimension??? |
Gidday,
I am on vacation in California, away from my kit and about to visit Aircraft Spruce
tomorrow, if someone could tell me the entire length of the rudder at the leading
edge,
should I choose to experiment with a full length hinge? Thanks in hopeful anticipation.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
P.S. Yes, I know I can guess, but I fear my Visa card it likely to come out of
there
already depleted, so I am attempting to mitigate the guilty feeling when, "she
who
must be obeyed" asks me......"how much did all this cost"???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Glauser <dglauser(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Length Dimension??? |
My full-length hinge is 49.25" long. I believe AS sells it in whole
feet only. Four feet ought to work.
David
wrote:
>
> Gidday,
> I am on vacation in California, away from my kit and about to visit Aircraft
Spruce
> tomorrow, if someone could tell me the entire length of the rudder at the leading
edge,
> should I choose to experiment with a full length hinge? Thanks in hopeful anticipation.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> P.S. Yes, I know I can guess, but I fear my Visa card it likely to come out of
there
> already depleted, so I am attempting to mitigate the guilty feeling when, "she
who
> must be obeyed" asks me......"how much did all this cost"???
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Length Dimension??? |
Tony
I did a full llinth hinge on Wile E Coyote. Plan on 48 inches. That is what
I used. ( in carbon fiber though) ((don't ask, it was too expencive))
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
----- Original Message -----
From: <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Rudder Length Dimension???
>
> Gidday,
> I am on vacation in California, away from my kit and about to visit
> Aircraft Spruce
> tomorrow, if someone could tell me the entire length of the rudder at the
> leading edge,
> should I choose to experiment with a full length hinge? Thanks in hopeful
> anticipation.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> P.S. Yes, I know I can guess, but I fear my Visa card it likely to come
> out of there
> already depleted, so I am attempting to mitigate the guilty feeling when,
> "she who
> must be obeyed" asks me......"how much did all this cost"???
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Purpose of plywood between ribs |
Does anyone know why a piece of plywood is laminated between the two
ribs adjoining the W18 plates?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Purpose of plywood between ribs |
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
IMHO it appears to be an essential structural stiffener...lot's of stress on
the outriggers
Fred
A194
on 1/3/05 8:44 AM, Andrew Sarangan at asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know why a piece of plywood is laminated between the two
> ribs adjoining the W18 plates?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Europa Classic Engine Mount |
Happy New Year to everyone!
Does anyone in the UK have a classic engine mount in good condition that
they wish to sell?
Regards
Roger Mills
G-BVUV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Europa Classic Engine Mount |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Roger Hi!
> Does anyone in the UK have a classic engine mount in good condition that
> they wish to sell?
Try Nigel Charles: nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk
He is upgrading his Europa to XS Mountings to upgrade Starter Motor
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bank Holiday DOTH (aka FLY-IN) |
Did anyone make it to Shobdon to-day ?.
I got past Gloucester, then ran into low cloud and rain - so came home!
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ROGER MILLS <roger.mills(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Europa Classic Engine Mount |
Thanks Gerry I'll give him a mail.
Regards
Roger
Gerry Holland wrote:
Roger Hi!
> Does anyone in the UK have a classic engine mount in good condition that
> they wish to sell?
Try Nigel Charles: nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk
He is upgrading his Europa to XS Mountings to upgrade Starter Motor
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: TP11 Torque tube bearings |
In a message dated 1/2/2005 9:17:51 PM Central Standard Time,
Post2Forum(at)comcast.net writes:
Then measure TP-11s from center to center. We can only hope it's 255 mm.
I'm not sure what the calcs where for TP-11 and keeping it in place, maybe
1/8 is ok, but is sounds light.
Thanks Steve. I truly appreciate the help!
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: TP11 Torque tube bearings |
Hi Brian,
my bearings outside faces are about 5 mm (or 3/8 of an inch) proud of the
outer surface. My total measurement from outside to outside face of the
bearings are 267 mm. They are for sure not centered in the hole of the
fuselage.
Michael Grass
A266 Trigear
Detroit, Michigan
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: RE: TP11 Torque tube bearings
>
> In a message dated 1/2/2005 9:17:51 PM Central Standard Time,
> Post2Forum(at)comcast.net writes:
> Then measure TP-11s from center to center. We can only hope it's 255 mm.
> I'm not sure what the calcs where for TP-11 and keeping it in place, maybe
> 1/8 is ok, but is sounds light.
> Thanks Steve. I truly appreciate the help!
>
> Brian Skelly
> Texas
> Europa # A276 TriGear
> See My build photos at:
> http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
A happy new year and a thank you to all who have a replied to my questions.
It for sure did not made my decision much easier but I still will likely to
go with the 914 engine. At present, I can not come up with an economical or
logical rather an emotional decision.
Logical would be to buy an aircraft
Economical would mean to rent an aircraft.
Emotional means to put in the smoothest engine with the most power and
altitude capabilities I can afford.
BTW, for all those who feel the need to go with an automotive engine, there
is a German engineer working on an conversion engine from the European SMART
car. This engine is a turbocharged and fuel injected 82 hp diesel engine
with only 11 lbs more weight then the 912 (without the S) but has much
better torque / rpm characteristics. http://www.ecofly.de/ According to the
German flier magazine "Aerokurier 9/2004" this guy is currently working on a
100 HP version and has plans to install it in to a Europa. Maybe Bruno, the
Europa distributor in Germany could shine a bit more light on this one.
Graham,
Yes, Jim Price is my tech councilor and also looked after Thomas Scherer's
bird. He is a very knowledgeable mechanical and electrical engineer and is
with me on my wishful dream to go with the lower compression engine. Also I
am very interested in the Kremen CS prop. Fortunately I still can wait with
the decision of the prop but think that I should order the FWF kit very
soon.
Michael Grass
A266 Trigear, Detroit Mi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Singleton" <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
>
>>What makes more sense: To get first the 914 kit and then, if I change my
>>mind (means
>>I cant afford the 914) upgrade to the 912? Or get the 912 package and have
>>left over's? I would hate to buy parts I do not need. If somebody has the
>>packing list from both that would be great so I could see what I really
>>would
>>get from Europa.
>>
>>The last of the set of questions:
>>I know some of you where interested about the Kremen CS Prop. Are there
>>any Europas
>>Michael Grass
>>A266 Trigear, Detroit MI,
>
> Michael
> whose your tech councilor? Jim Price? He was Thomas Scherer's remember
> him?
> Kremen is the cheapest and looks OK . I like the Arplast (French) still
> economical,
> 914 is the smoothest engine and is very good at high density altitude.
> Plenty of that in the West.
> Graham
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Flight testing guide |
Hi all,
I seem to recall that the FAA has an updated version of AC90-89a. If this is the
case would any one happen to know the document number.
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Baker <galahav(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight testing guide |
AC Number:
AC 90-89A
Subject:
Amateur-Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing
Handbook
go here to find
http://www.faa.gov/certification/aircraft
Great Information
--- Paul McAllister wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I seem to recall that the FAA has an updated version
> of AC90-89a. If this is the case would any one
> happen to know the document number.
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Testing Guide |
Paul
I just checked the FAA website ( http://av-info.faa.gov/ ) and on the
2nd page for Advisory Circulars the AC90-89a is still there and shows
now sign of any more recent updates.
Hope this helps.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(75%) Work on hold while I accumulate $$ to purchase the plexi, prop
and other parts that I'll never get from EMIL or E(04). Meanwhile,
working on Instrument, Commercial, CFI & CFII ratings for potential
career change.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
The M160 looks promising, but I can't find any reference that this is a
Diesel.
Karl
>From: "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> Reply-To:
>europa-list(at)matronics.com To: Subject: Re:
>Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options Date: Mon, 3
>
>
>A happy new year and a thank you to all who have a replied to my
>questions.
>
>It for sure did not made my decision much easier but I still will likely to
>go with the 914 engine. At present, I can not come up with an economical or
>logical rather an emotional decision. Logical would be to buy an aircraft
>Economical would mean to rent an aircraft. Emotional means to put in the
>smoothest engine with the most power and altitude capabilities I can
>afford.
>
>BTW, for all those who feel the need to go with an automotive engine, there
>is a German engineer working on an conversion engine from the European
>SMART car. This engine is a turbocharged and fuel injected 82 hp diesel
>engine with only 11 lbs more weight then the 912 (without the S) but has
>much better torque / rpm characteristics. http://www.ecofly.de/ According
>to the German flier magazine "Aerokurier 9/2004" this guy is currently
>working on a 100 HP version and has plans to install it in to a Europa.
>Maybe Bruno, the Europa distributor in Germany could shine a bit more light
>on this one.
>
>Graham, Yes, Jim Price is my tech councilor and also looked after Thomas
>Scherer's bird. He is a very knowledgeable mechanical and electrical
>engineer and is with me on my wishful dream to go with the lower
>compression engine. Also I am very interested in the Kremen CS prop.
>Fortunately I still can wait with the decision of the prop but think that I
>should order the FWF kit very soon.
>
>Michael Grass A266 Trigear, Detroit Mi
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Graham Singleton"
> To: Subject:
>Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
>
>Europa-List message posted by: "Michael Grass" >>What
>makes more sense: To get first the 914 kit and then, if I change my >>mind
>(means >>I cant afford the 914) upgrade to the 912? Or get the 912 package
>and have >>left over's? I would hate to buy parts I do not need. If
>somebody has the >>packing list from both that would be great so I could
>see what I really >>would >>get from Europa. >> >>The last of the set of
>questions: >>I know some of you where interested about the Kremen CS Prop.
>Are there >>any Europas >>Michael Grass >>A266 Trigear, Detroit MI, > >
>Michael > whose your tech councilor? Jim Price? He was Thomas Scherer's
>remember > him? > Kremen is the cheapest and looks OK . I like the Arplast
>(French) still > economical, > 914 is the smoothest engine and is very good
>at high density altitude. > Plenty of that in the West. > Graham > > >
>
>
>Forums.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: TP11 Torque tube bearings |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
I got to the hanger, it's hard to measure the torque tube stuff when its installed.
I measured the inside to inside edge of TP12. Got 141 mm. I lucked out and
my bushings centered.
I got a tip for installing TP10 plastic tube. I found that I pushed on them while
trying to drill the hole. This made them bind on TP11 bushings. What I did
was put TP10 edge down on two layers of thin duct tape. Then I cut around the
outside then the inside. So I had a duct tape O on the end of the tube. Then you
can put TP10 up tight against TP11. Drill the hole for the pin. Remove the
tape and the gap is perfect.
Chat Later,
Steved.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
Karl,
yes you are right. Sorry no diesel, it has a dual electronic ignition. For
some reason I must interpreted the constant toque over speed diagram and the
low fuel consumption as a diesel but reading the article again it is
defiantly not a diesel. The Engine still looks very interesting.
Michael Grass
----- Original Message -----
From: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
>
> The M160 looks promising, but I can't find any reference that this is a
> Diesel.
>
> Karl
>
>
>>From: "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> Reply-To:
>>europa-list(at)matronics.com To: Subject: Re:
>>Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options Date: Mon, 3
>>
>>
>>A happy new year and a thank you to all who have a replied to my
>>questions.
>>
>>It for sure did not made my decision much easier but I still will likely
>>to
>>go with the 914 engine. At present, I can not come up with an economical
>>or
>>logical rather an emotional decision. Logical would be to buy an aircraft
>>Economical would mean to rent an aircraft. Emotional means to put in the
>>smoothest engine with the most power and altitude capabilities I can
>>afford.
>>
>>BTW, for all those who feel the need to go with an automotive engine,
>>there
>>is a German engineer working on an conversion engine from the European
>>SMART car. This engine is a turbocharged and fuel injected 82 hp diesel
>>engine with only 11 lbs more weight then the 912 (without the S) but has
>>much better torque / rpm characteristics. http://www.ecofly.de/ According
>>to the German flier magazine "Aerokurier 9/2004" this guy is currently
>>working on a 100 HP version and has plans to install it in to a Europa.
>>Maybe Bruno, the Europa distributor in Germany could shine a bit more
>>light
>>on this one.
>>
>>Graham, Yes, Jim Price is my tech councilor and also looked after Thomas
>>Scherer's bird. He is a very knowledgeable mechanical and electrical
>>engineer and is with me on my wishful dream to go with the lower
>>compression engine. Also I am very interested in the Kremen CS prop.
>>Fortunately I still can wait with the decision of the prop but think that
>>I
>>should order the FWF kit very soon.
>>
>>Michael Grass A266 Trigear, Detroit Mi
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Graham Singleton"
>> To: Subject:
>>Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>>
>>
>>Europa-List message posted by: "Michael Grass"
>> >>What
>>makes more sense: To get first the 914 kit and then, if I change my >>mind
>>(means >>I cant afford the 914) upgrade to the 912? Or get the 912 package
>>and have >>left over's? I would hate to buy parts I do not need. If
>>somebody has the >>packing list from both that would be great so I could
>>see what I really >>would >>get from Europa. >> >>The last of the set of
>>questions: >>I know some of you where interested about the Kremen CS Prop.
>>Are there >>any Europas >>Michael Grass >>A266 Trigear, Detroit MI, > >
>>Michael > whose your tech councilor? Jim Price? He was Thomas Scherer's
>>remember > him? > Kremen is the cheapest and looks OK . I like the Arplast
>>(French) still > economical, > 914 is the smoothest engine and is very
>>good
>>at high density altitude. > Plenty of that in the West. > Graham > > >
>>
>>
>>Forums.
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi! Jeff
As I said I'm not sure about the UMA Transducer to which you refer but
the unit I used was the Pos-12 position sender unit supplied by The Ray
Allen Company. It has an operating travel length of 30mm (1.19"). I
found the best solution to provide use of this full range was a point in
space about 3/16" forward of the Flap Operating Arm (in my case the port
with the flaps in down position) about 1/14" above the fuselage floor. I
then bolted on to the arm a piece of flat aluminium suitably drilled for
a slender push rod to operate the sender unit positioned about 9" behind
the flap drive slot.
The Arc of the drive arm in this arrangement equates to approx. 30mm in
a straight line for the Unit and the bolt on item and hole stay above
the floor.
Since the unit is situated behind and above the flap drive slot I have
shielded it from weather by a passing the link through a "boot" of a
polythene bag completely enclosing the unit and sealed to the push rod.
I meanwhile guess that you know about the position visual markings
suggested by Europa for P1 to see on the upper surface of the port flap
relative to the wing surface?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF
ROBERTS
Subject: Europa-List: Flap Indicator
Hello Everyone & Happy New Year,
I am in the process of trying to install a UMA transducer to feed their
indicator gauge thats mounts on the panel. I haven't been able to come
up with a way and a place that I can get the travel the thing needs.
Has anyone used this unit successfully, and if so where did you mount
it?
Thanks, in advance,
Jeff
A258
One of the many things needed before the top goes on. Too late for me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Flap position warning |
I have a bad habit when things get a little busy, of forgetting to raise
my flaps occasionally after take off. I wondered if anyone had fitted a
'flap not up' indicator, perhaps a light or similar.
I have considered a momentary switch, normally closed, mounted adjacent
to the flap tube and depressed (to switch the light off) when the flaps
were fully up. This would illuminate an indicator light on the panel
whenever the flaps were not fully up but so far haven't been able to
find something suitable.
Any other idea's?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Indicator |
Thanks Bob,
I found a suitable way to mount the transducer. Mine travels like a
dial hand on a clock with the pivot point being the transducer. The
transducer itself is round so I mounted it with a 1 1/2 inch hose clamp
that I connected to a 2 inch square of scrap firewall-wall material.
This I floxed onto the floor under the flap arm. The dial or arm coming
from the transducer comes up about 6 inches and lays into a slot I made
of a piece of aluminum that is clamped to the flap arm. After several
attempts to get it to align with indicator markings of 10 20 & 30
degrees it works perfect. I just didn't want that awful looking sticker
on my wing. Nor did I want to paint lines there. The indicator and
transducer are in my opinion very over priced but it looks a lot
better. Thanks very much for your response.
Best Regards,
Jeff
A258
Finding more & more & more things to do before paint.
On Jan 4, 2005, at 3:09 AM, R.C.Harrison wrote:
>
>
> Hi! Jeff
> As I said I'm not sure about the UMA Transducer to which you refer but
> the unit I used was the Pos-12 position sender unit supplied by The Ray
> Allen Company. It has an operating travel length of 30mm (1.19"). I
> found the best solution to provide use of this full range was a point
> in
> space about 3/16" forward of the Flap Operating Arm (in my case the
> port
> with the flaps in down position) about 1/14" above the fuselage floor.
> I
> then bolted on to the arm a piece of flat aluminum suitably drilled for
> a slender push rod to operate the sender unit positioned about 9"
> behind
> the flap drive slot.
> The Arc of the drive arm in this arrangement equates to approx. 30mm in
> a straight line for the Unit and the bolt on item and hole stay above
> the floor.
> Since the unit is situated behind and above the flap drive slot I have
> shielded it from weather by a passing the link through a "boot" of a
> polythene bag completely enclosing the unit and sealed to the push rod.
>
> I meanwhile guess that you know about the position visual markings
> suggested by Europa for P1 to see on the upper surface of the port flap
> relative to the wing surface?
>
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF
> ROBERTS
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Flap Indicator
>
>
> Hello Everyone & Happy New Year,
> I am in the process of trying to install a UMA transducer to feed their
> indicator gauge thats mounts on the panel. I haven't been able to come
> up with a way and a place that I can get the travel the thing needs.
> Has anyone used this unit successfully, and if so where did you mount
> it?
>
> Thanks, in advance,
> Jeff
> A258
> One of the many things needed before the top goes on. Too late for me.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Indicator |
I intend to add something a little more simple - a Microswitch and an LED to indicate
that the flaps are not set to zero.
In the UK, does this constitue a mod - which would require to go through the time
consuming PFA approval before the aircraft can be flow with this fitted.
Any suggestions as to the best place to pick up the movement for the microswitch?
Peter
>
> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> Date: 2005/01/04 Tue PM 02:55:47 GMT
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Flap Indicator
>
>
> Thanks Bob,
> I found a suitable way to mount the transducer. Mine travels like a
> dial hand on a clock with the pivot point being the transducer. The
> transducer itself is round so I mounted it with a 1 1/2 inch hose clamp
> that I connected to a 2 inch square of scrap firewall-wall material.
> This I floxed onto the floor under the flap arm. The dial or arm coming
> from the transducer comes up about 6 inches and lays into a slot I made
> of a piece of aluminum that is clamped to the flap arm. After several
> attempts to get it to align with indicator markings of 10 20 & 30
> degrees it works perfect. I just didn't want that awful looking sticker
> on my wing. Nor did I want to paint lines there. The indicator and
> transducer are in my opinion very over priced but it looks a lot
> better. Thanks very much for your response.
> Best Regards,
> Jeff
> A258
> Finding more & more & more things to do before paint.
>
> On Jan 4, 2005, at 3:09 AM, R.C.Harrison wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi! Jeff
> > As I said I'm not sure about the UMA Transducer to which you refer but
> > the unit I used was the Pos-12 position sender unit supplied by The Ray
> > Allen Company. It has an operating travel length of 30mm (1.19"). I
> > found the best solution to provide use of this full range was a point
> > in
> > space about 3/16" forward of the Flap Operating Arm (in my case the
> > port
> > with the flaps in down position) about 1/14" above the fuselage floor.
> > I
> > then bolted on to the arm a piece of flat aluminum suitably drilled for
> > a slender push rod to operate the sender unit positioned about 9"
> > behind
> > the flap drive slot.
> > The Arc of the drive arm in this arrangement equates to approx. 30mm in
> > a straight line for the Unit and the bolt on item and hole stay above
> > the floor.
> > Since the unit is situated behind and above the flap drive slot I have
> > shielded it from weather by a passing the link through a "boot" of a
> > polythene bag completely enclosing the unit and sealed to the push rod.
> >
> > I meanwhile guess that you know about the position visual markings
> > suggested by Europa for P1 to see on the upper surface of the port flap
> > relative to the wing surface?
> >
> > Regards
> > Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF
> > ROBERTS
> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Europa-List: Flap Indicator
> >
> >
> > Hello Everyone & Happy New Year,
> > I am in the process of trying to install a UMA transducer to feed their
> > indicator gauge thats mounts on the panel. I haven't been able to come
> > up with a way and a place that I can get the travel the thing needs.
> > Has anyone used this unit successfully, and if so where did you mount
> > it?
> >
> > Thanks, in advance,
> > Jeff
> > A258
> > One of the many things needed before the top goes on. Too late for me.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Indicator |
I intend to add something a little more simple - a Microswitch and an LED to indicate
that the flaps are not set to zero.
In the UK, does this constitue a mod - which would require to go through the time
consuming PFA approval before the aircraft can be flow with this fitted.
Any suggestions as to the best place to pick up the movement for the microswitch?
Peter
>
> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> Date: 2005/01/04 Tue PM 02:55:47 GMT
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Flap Indicator
>
>
> Thanks Bob,
> I found a suitable way to mount the transducer. Mine travels like a
> dial hand on a clock with the pivot point being the transducer. The
> transducer itself is round so I mounted it with a 1 1/2 inch hose clamp
> that I connected to a 2 inch square of scrap firewall-wall material.
> This I floxed onto the floor under the flap arm. The dial or arm coming
> from the transducer comes up about 6 inches and lays into a slot I made
> of a piece of aluminum that is clamped to the flap arm. After several
> attempts to get it to align with indicator markings of 10 20 & 30
> degrees it works perfect. I just didn't want that awful looking sticker
> on my wing. Nor did I want to paint lines there. The indicator and
> transducer are in my opinion very over priced but it looks a lot
> better. Thanks very much for your response.
> Best Regards,
> Jeff
> A258
> Finding more & more & more things to do before paint.
>
> On Jan 4, 2005, at 3:09 AM, R.C.Harrison wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Hi! Jeff
> > As I said I'm not sure about the UMA Transducer to which you refer but
> > the unit I used was the Pos-12 position sender unit supplied by The Ray
> > Allen Company. It has an operating travel length of 30mm (1.19"). I
> > found the best solution to provide use of this full range was a point
> > in
> > space about 3/16" forward of the Flap Operating Arm (in my case the
> > port
> > with the flaps in down position) about 1/14" above the fuselage floor.
> > I
> > then bolted on to the arm a piece of flat aluminum suitably drilled for
> > a slender push rod to operate the sender unit positioned about 9"
> > behind
> > the flap drive slot.
> > The Arc of the drive arm in this arrangement equates to approx. 30mm in
> > a straight line for the Unit and the bolt on item and hole stay above
> > the floor.
> > Since the unit is situated behind and above the flap drive slot I have
> > shielded it from weather by a passing the link through a "boot" of a
> > polythene bag completely enclosing the unit and sealed to the push rod.
> >
> > I meanwhile guess that you know about the position visual markings
> > suggested by Europa for P1 to see on the upper surface of the port flap
> > relative to the wing surface?
> >
> > Regards
> > Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JEFF
> > ROBERTS
> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Europa-List: Flap Indicator
> >
> >
> > Hello Everyone & Happy New Year,
> > I am in the process of trying to install a UMA transducer to feed their
> > indicator gauge thats mounts on the panel. I haven't been able to come
> > up with a way and a place that I can get the travel the thing needs.
> > Has anyone used this unit successfully, and if so where did you mount
> > it?
> >
> > Thanks, in advance,
> > Jeff
> > A258
> > One of the many things needed before the top goes on. Too late for me.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: TP11 Torque tube bearings |
Thanks Steve. Good method on the plastic sleeves! Thanks again.
Happy trails
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bish" <N914RB(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi all,
Like many of you, I've been discouraged lately by the exchange rate driving
up the Rotax alternative and was wondering something. I'm sure someone's
already considered this but what if someone from the US was going to Europe
anyway and wanted to purchase an engine there and have it shipped back home?
Don't know if there's any merit to such an idea but I know Mercedes and BMW
both have programs where you visit the factory, buy your car, then they
assist in having it transported home. I hear you can usually save enough on
the car to pay for most of the trip. Anyone given this any thought and, if
so, does it pan out after figuring the exchange and freight rates?
Ideas anyone?
Dan Bish
N914RB(at)earthlink.net
Kit A144 - Mono
Tucson, AZ, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Colin John Howard Richardson" <cjh.richardson(at)virgin.net> |
Dear Europa Forum members,
Has anyone had any aircraft work, modifications etc carried out by Southdown Aero
Services at Lasham, England?
If so could you please contact me off list at cjh.richardson(at)virgin.net or by
phone on +44 (0)1398 361259.
Many thanks and a Happy new Year to you all.
John Richardson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 01/04/05 |
>Don't know if there's any merit to such an idea but I know Mercedes and BMW
>both have programs where you visit the factory, buy your car, then they
>assist in having it transported home. I hear you can usually save enough on
>the car to pay for most of the trip. Anyone given this any thought and, if
>so, does it pan out after figuring the exchange and freight rates?
Dan
you might talk to Ernst Keppert he has a contact at
Diamond who used to do work for Rotax Austria where the engines are made.
(Gunther Weinhart)
Don't tell him I told you !!:o)
Ernst has Trevor Jackson's lovely Classic monowheel and has given it a very
attractive home.
Graham
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finger Brake cylinder seals |
Richard
Did you get a reply to this one as I have tightened the collar up fully
and am now wondering if that's right?
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Iddon
Subject: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
I had a seal on one side of my finger brake cylinder fail whist taxiing
yesterday, causing me to taxi in ever decreasing circles. (Fortunately
I was able to cut the engine before I disappeared up my own tailplane).
I have a set of replacement pistons / cylinders which I am intending to
fit but I seem to recall that there is something odd about tightening up
the collar which retains them. From memory I think I should leave it
around 1 or 2 mm. away from being fully home.
Can anyone enlighten me?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "j t" <lansair4p(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | europa parts wanted |
hi all
i am looking for europa parts for a rebuild of a crashed aircraft
i have managed to save the top half of the fus and i have most componants
for the cokpit module is there any one that has any parts the want to sell
thanks
Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All
Has anyone got a build manual for the glider wings as I am now stuck
without one
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
Alan,
I've sent you a PDF copy - attached to a separate email as this Forum
doesn't allow attachments.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1250 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Burrows
Subject: Europa-List: Glider Wings
<alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Hi All
Has anyone got a build manual for the glider wings as I am now stuck
without one
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Finger Brake cylinder seals |
Alan,
Yes. Neville advised me to back off the collars .030in. from fully home
and retain them with loctite on the threads. If you tighten them fully,
one of the seals blocks the small holes which allow fluid from the
central reservoir in the cylinder to the ones at the side where the
pistons are.
Richard.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Burrows
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
<alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Richard
Did you get a reply to this one as I have tightened the collar up fully
and am now wondering if that's right?
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Iddon
Subject: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
I had a seal on one side of my finger brake cylinder fail whist taxiing
yesterday, causing me to taxi in ever decreasing circles. (Fortunately
I was able to cut the engine before I disappeared up my own tailplane).
I have a set of replacement pistons / cylinders which I am intending to
fit but I seem to recall that there is something odd about tightening up
the collar which retains them. From memory I think I should leave it
around 1 or 2 mm. away from being fully home.
Can anyone enlighten me?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Davidghillam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Sourcing |
Sounds a good idea, but when I was on holiday in Austria a few years back, I
tried to arrange a factory visit (after buying one of their engines). I
spent what felt like hours on the phone over at least two days repeatedly being
told that I had to ring back and speak to someone else. After explaining my
request many times to lots of different people, I eventually spoke to someone
who categorically said that they never do factory visits, using security,
health and safety as reasons.
David
G-SHSH
what if someone from the US was going to Europe
anyway and wanted to purchase an engine there and have it shipped back home?
Don't know if there's any merit to such an idea but I know Mercedes and BMW
both have programs where you visit the factory, buy your car, then they
assist in having it transported home.
Dan Bish
N914RB(at)earthlink.net
Kit A144 - Mono
Tucson, AZ, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finger Brake cylinder seals |
I have finger brakes though they seem more like hand brakes as you have to really
pull them hard to make them work at all let alone have any finesse with them.
I think they came with the tri conversion kit from Europa (not too sure as
I didn't do the work)
Are you able to operate your brakes with a reasonable degree of ease? Mine have
very little feel to them (the levers move forward with ease by about an inch
or so but when you pull them from the rest position, they need a good hard pull
before they do much at all. It really spoils the ground handling.
Are they all like this, is it just due to the type of cylinder thats been used
on my setup or do I have a 'dud'?
Peter
>
> From: "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com>
> Date: 2005/01/05 Wed PM 01:33:55 GMT
> To:
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
>
>
> Alan,
>
> Yes. Neville advised me to back off the collars .030in. from fully home
> and retain them with loctite on the threads. If you tighten them fully,
> one of the seals blocks the small holes which allow fluid from the
> central reservoir in the cylinder to the ones at the side where the
> pistons are.
>
> Richard.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan
> Burrows
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
>
> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> Richard
>
> Did you get a reply to this one as I have tightened the collar up fully
> and am now wondering if that's right?
>
> Alan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
> Iddon
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
>
>
>
> I had a seal on one side of my finger brake cylinder fail whist taxiing
> yesterday, causing me to taxi in ever decreasing circles. (Fortunately
> I was able to cut the engine before I disappeared up my own tailplane).
>
> I have a set of replacement pistons / cylinders which I am intending to
> fit but I seem to recall that there is something odd about tightening up
> the collar which retains them. From memory I think I should leave it
> around 1 or 2 mm. away from being fully home.
>
> Can anyone enlighten me?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | europa parts wanted |
>i am looking for europa parts for a rebuild of a crashed aircraft i
have managed to save the top half of the fus and i have most componants
for the cokpit module is there any one that has any parts the want to
sell thanks<
I am upgrading my Classic to XS status so have some Classic firewall
forward parts available should they be of interest.
Regards
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Finger Brake cylinder seals |
It may be that your cylinders need cleaning out. It is my understanding
that when delivered new, most of the Europa supplied finger brake
cylinders had a good deal of grey 'gunge' in them hidden in various
places. Neville tells me it is buffing soap, used to polish the
cylinders. It took me quite a long time to get this out of mine
originally and when I stripped them down again last week after approx.
100 hours flying I found that more seemed to have appeared. This stuff
can cause the pistons to stick and the brakes to become stiff.
I have stripped my cylinders down, cleaned them thoroughly again,
replaced the piston & seal assemblies (supplied by Europa) and replaced
all the silicone fluid in the system. My brakes are quite smooth to
operate now and don't need much pressure to become effective.
You might also check the stiffness of your shimmy damper. If set too
stiff, you have to haul on the brakes quite hard to persuade the
nosewheel to change direction.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com
Subject: Re: RE: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
I have finger brakes though they seem more like hand brakes as you have
to really pull them hard to make them work at all let alone have any
finesse with them. I think they came with the tri conversion kit from
Europa (not too sure as I didn't do the work)
Are you able to operate your brakes with a reasonable degree of ease?
Mine have very little feel to them (the levers move forward with ease by
about an inch or so but when you pull them from the rest position, they
need a good hard pull before they do much at all. It really spoils the
ground handling.
Are they all like this, is it just due to the type of cylinder thats
been used on my setup or do I have a 'dud'?
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Seaver <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glider Wings |
Hi Jeremy,
Could you also mail me a copy of the Glider wing manual?
Also,
does anyone out there have the V-speeds for the Europa glider:
Vne ?
Vx, Vy ?
max gear extension speed?
max air-brake extension speed?
stall speed?
minimum sink airspeed?
best glide speed?
regards,
Terry Seaver
A135 / N135TD
400 hours on our short wings, still working on the long ones.
Jeremy Davey wrote:
>
> Alan,
>
> I've sent you a PDF copy - attached to a separate email as this Forum
> doesn't allow attachments.
>
> Cheers,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> PFA EC Member
> "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1250 build hours to date
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Burrows
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Glider Wings
>
> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> Hi All
>
> Has anyone got a build manual for the glider wings as I am now stuck
> without one
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finger Brake cylinder seals |
Hi Alan,
The reply was back off the collar by 0.030'' from fully tight.
Secure with a locking / sealing fluid [Loctite]
Cheers,
Nev.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Sourcing |
> I eventually spoke to someone who
> categorically said that they never
> do factory visits, using security,
> health and safety as reasons.
> David
> G-SHSH
That's interesting. An engineer friend of mine toured the Rotax plant
some years ago. Very impressive, he said. To the contrary, and until
recently they say, the Lycoming plant here was something out the
distant past. Just no workers with handlebar mustaches and those
cloth, what-you-call-em hats.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 01/03/05 |
>Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
>
>Karl,
>
>yes you are right. Sorry no diesel, it has a dual electronic ignition. For
>some reason I must interpreted the constant toque over speed diagram and the
>low fuel consumption as a diesel but reading the article again it is
>defiantly not a diesel. The Engine still looks very interesting.
>
>Michael Grass
There is a Smart diesel, Jon Tye has one though I haven't seen it yet. Jon
was the Europa launch customer, he bought kit no. 1 then built it as the
lightest and very straight too.
Graham
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
I just noticed that the strip on the underside of the wing skin does
not line up with the joggle in the ribs. It is off by about 2 inches. I
searched the archives and found a couple emails about this. It appears
Europa replaced these faulty skins. I wonder if the new Europa will do
anything about this. If not, is there an easy fix I can do myself?
Perhaps cut the ribs to extend the joggles?
=====
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
We just moved the jog on the wing skin. The Europa Factory did not replace
the skins for any of us on the right side of the pond. We were advised to
cut out and lay up 2 ply of BID in the aria.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?op=modload&name=gallery&file=index
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Sarangan" <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Europa-List: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle
>
>
> I just noticed that the strip on the underside of the wing skin does
> not line up with the joggle in the ribs. It is off by about 2 inches. I
> searched the archives and found a couple emails about this. It appears
> Europa replaced these faulty skins. I wonder if the new Europa will do
> anything about this. If not, is there an easy fix I can do myself?
> Perhaps cut the ribs to extend the joggles?
>
>
> =====
> Andrew Sarangan
> http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
Andrew,
That was one of the OOPS! that was found in many of the kits sold. Here in
the States, the company had us remove the section of reinforcement on the skin
and add a strip of foam covered by two layers of BID. I may still have the
written instructions if you need them.
I remember one builder that just repositioned the joggles at each rib.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finger Brake cylinder seals |
Thanks Nev
That might be my problem I'll try it.
Happy New Year
Cheers
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NevEyre(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Finger Brake cylinder seals
Hi Alan,
The reply was back off the collar by 0.030'' from fully tight. Secure
with a locking / sealing fluid [Loctite] Cheers, Nev.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
In fairness to the factory, I think that solution was applied worldwide!
Andrew, if Mike can't find those instructions, I'm sure that if you contact
the new factory, Andy will email them to you.
I'm not sure I'd like to fly in the one with the moved joggles on the
ribs... That bump is there for a reason :-(
Kind regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1250 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle
Andrew,
That was one of the OOPS! that was found in many of the kits sold. Here in
the States, the company had us remove the section of reinforcement on the
skin
and add a strip of foam covered by two layers of BID. I may still have the
written instructions if you need them.
I remember one builder that just repositioned the joggles at each rib.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Andrew, the PDF file is posted at:
http://www.europaowners.org/dlman.php?func=file_info&file_id=102
If that link is broken, go to http://www.europaowners.org/
Downloads, Service bulletins, #8 =, 8 Port wing closure panel.
All manual updates, service bulletins, Manuals (upon request), that I have are
available. Also some of Grahams mods so you can see what's involved in the mod.
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "j t" <lansair4p(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | europa parts wanted |
do u know exactly yet what u have
>From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: Europa-List: europa parts wanted
>Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:28:19 -0000
>
>
>
> >i am looking for europa parts for a rebuild of a crashed aircraft i
>have managed to save the top half of the fus and i have most componants
>for the cokpit module is there any one that has any parts the want to
>sell thanks<
>
>I am upgrading my Classic to XS status so have some Classic firewall
>forward parts available should they be of interest.
>
>Regards
>
>Nigel Charles
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.co.uk/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: europa parts wanted |
I have a set of classic cowls, front leg (less tyre), 2 outriggers and a tail wheel
if interested.
P
>
> From: "j t" <lansair4p(at)hotmail.com>
> Date: 2005/01/06 Thu PM 02:38:40 GMT
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: europa parts wanted
>
>
> do u know exactly yet what u have
>
>
> >From: "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk>
> >Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: Europa-List: europa parts wanted
> >Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2005 16:28:19 -0000
> >
> >
> >
> > >i am looking for europa parts for a rebuild of a crashed aircraft i
> >have managed to save the top half of the fus and i have most componants
> >for the cokpit module is there any one that has any parts the want to
> >sell thanks<
> >
> >I am upgrading my Classic to XS status so have some Classic firewall
> >forward parts available should they be of interest.
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Nigel Charles
> >
> >
>
> http://toolbar.msn.co.uk/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Amy Eckel" <eckel1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
Jeremy,
I am the builder that Mike Duane referred to. I moved the joggles
in the wing ribs to accommodate the rib on the wing skin. My reasoning is
that it is not good to break the line of the skin rib with a joggle, but
better
to move the joggle in the wing rib so the rib on the skin would be
straight. I checked with Andy and Neville before making the change and
got their okay. I think this is a stronger solution, although the factory
fix will work
just fine.
The reason there is a rib on the skin is that during flight it was observed
that
the skin buckled between the ribs during high G maneuvers. The rib fixed
that problem.
If anyone is interested in more detail on how I did this I will be glad to
accommodate.
Regards,
John Eckel, A230
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle
>
> In fairness to the factory, I think that solution was applied worldwide!
> Andrew, if Mike can't find those instructions, I'm sure that if you
> contact
> the new factory, Andy will email them to you.
>
> I'm not sure I'd like to fly in the one with the moved joggles on the
> ribs... That bump is there for a reason :-(
>
> Kind regards,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> PFA EC Member
> "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
> is
> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1250 build hours to date
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle
>
>
> Andrew,
>
> That was one of the OOPS! that was found in many of the kits sold. Here in
> the States, the company had us remove the section of reinforcement on the
> skin
> and add a strip of foam covered by two layers of BID. I may still have the
> written instructions if you need them.
>
> I remember one builder that just repositioned the joggles at each rib.
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
> Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
> that.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | UVTReith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
In einer eMail vom 04.01.2005 06:20:42 Westeurop=E4ische Normalzeit schreibt
M.Grass(at)comcast.net:
Karl,
yes you are right. Sorry no diesel, it has a dual electronic ignition. For
some reason I must interpreted the constant toque over speed diagram and the
low fuel consumption as a diesel but reading the article again it is
defiantly not a diesel. The Engine still looks very interesting.
Michael Grass
----- Original Message -----
From: "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
>
> The M160 looks promising, but I can't find any reference that this is a
> Diesel.
>
> Karl
>
>
>>From: "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> Reply-To:
>>europa-list(at)matronics.com To: Subject: Re:
>>Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options Date: Mon, 3
>>
>>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Michael Grass"
>>
>>A happy new year and a thank you to all who have a replied to my
>>questions.
>>
>>It for sure did not made my decision much easier but I still will likely
>>to
>>go with the 914 engine. At present, I can not come up with an economical=20
>>or
>>logical rather an emotional decision. Logical would be to buy an aircraft
>>Economical would mean to rent an aircraft. Emotional means to put in the
>>smoothest engine with the most power and altitude capabilities I can
>>afford.
>>
>>BTW, for all those who feel the need to go with an automotive engine,
>>there
>>is a German engineer working on an conversion engine from the European
>>SMART car. This engine is a turbocharged and fuel injected 82 hp diesel
>>engine with only 11 lbs more weight then the 912 (without the S) but has
>>much better torque / rpm characteristics. http://www.ecofly.de/ According
>>to the German flier magazine "Aerokurier 9/2004" this guy is currently
>>working on a 100 HP version and has plans to install it in to a Europa.
>>Maybe Bruno, the Europa distributor in Germany could shine a bit more
>>light
>>on this one.
>>
>>Graham, Yes, Jim Price is my tech councilor and also looked after Thomas
>>Scherer's bird. He is a very knowledgeable mechanical and electrical
>>engineer and is with me on my wishful dream to go with the lower
>>compression engine. Also I am very interested in the Kremen CS prop.
>>Fortunately I still can wait with the decision of the prop but think that
>>I
>>should order the FWF kit very soon.
>>
>>Michael Grass A266 Trigear, Detroit Mi
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Graham Singleton"
>> To: Subject:
>>Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>>
>>
>>Europa-List message posted by: "Michael Grass"
>> >>What
>>makes more sense: To get first the 914 kit and then, if I change my >>mind
>>(means >>I cant afford the 914) upgrade to the 912? Or get the 912 package
>>and have >>left over's? I would hate to buy parts I do not need. If
>>somebody has the >>packing list from both that would be great so I could
>>see what I really >>would >>get from Europa. >> >>The last of the set of
>>questions: >>I know some of you where interested about the Kremen CS Prop.
>>Are there >>any Europas >>Michael Grass >>A266 Trigear, Detroit MI, > >
>>Michael > whose your tech councilor? Jim Price? He was Thomas Scherer's
>>remember > him? > Kremen is the cheapest and looks OK . I like the Arplast
>>(French) still > economical, > 914 is the smoothest engine and is very
>>good
>>at high density altitude. > Plenty of that in the West. > Graham > > >
>>
>>
>>Forums.
>>
>>
>
>
>
Hi friends,
the M160 is a 82 HP 3-Cylinder turbocharched petrol engine from smart
(Mercedes) and comes together with a Fly-Control System, called MIP-System.=20
This is
similar to the Rotax Fly-Dat, but can do much more. It will also prevent the
engine for overheating etc.
The engine drive shaft is operating via a cetrifugal clutch (out of the
motorbice racing business) a very strong tooth-belt and via this a strong made
prop shaft.
Otto Funk, the founder and (still) owner, together with his son of the
microlight planes FK 9, FK 14 etc. has developed the aircraft side of this =20smart
motor and founded for that the company ecofly.
They have flown a FK 9 with this M160 smart engine more than 1.900 hours and
stripped it down. There was anything like new.
The vibrations are very low and the prop will start to spin, when the engine
runs at about 1.200 rpm.
BUT:
This engine was not good enough for my baby (Monowheel XS).
The Mercedes-Benz tuner BRABUS has upgrated this nice engine to 102 HP.
At present ecofly has one of this engines on test in a FK 9 Mark 4 and will
get two smart-BRABUS engines during January, one for my baby and one for a
Katana!!!
I have supplied ecofly with a front part of the XS and the cowling last
year. They meanwhile have developed/constructed an engine mounting frame for the
Europa. We think, that we also can use the XS cowling without a lot of big
changes, as the intake openings are similar to the FK 9.
We estimate, that the complete firewall package up to the Prop
flange(engine, mounting frame, cowling, MIP-System and the starter box) will be
available
during spring time this year.
The complete price is not fixed yet, but will be definately by some thousand
dollars or euros below the 912S version.
At present they are using a fix Warp Drive Prop. All changes like adjustable
prop, if Kremen or Warp Drive will be possible and will be the decission of
the builder. Ecofly will offer up to the Prop flange.
But there is still a small problem for me. The engine do not have a direct
drive for a vacuum pump, but there is a belt drive available, normally used
for an air condition pump. But we will solve this point.
When we have made the installation and the first test runs etc. I will
report to whom, who is interested in this really good alternative.
I wish you all a happy successful and stressless new year with a loi of nice
flights.
Kind Regards,
Bruno Reith / Europa Aircraft Distributor
_www.europa-aircraft.de_ (http://www.europa-aircraft.de)
_www.ecofly.de_ (http://www.ecofly.de)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lmorgan822(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: europa parts wanted |
I have a complete phase I kit; elevators, ailonrons, flaps, rudder, and associated
hardware. They were professionally constructed and finished. They are ready
for installation and paint.
Larry Morgan
503-804-5508
lmorgan822(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
John,
Thanks for the info - most interesting. If Andy and Neville OK's it, I'll
fly with you any time :-)
I'm sure you know where I was coming from - I've seen some dodgy work in my
time!
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1250 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John & Amy
Eckel
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle
Jeremy,
I am the builder that Mike Duane referred to. I moved the joggles
in the wing ribs to accommodate the rib on the wing skin. My reasoning is
that it is not good to break the line of the skin rib with a joggle, but
better
to move the joggle in the wing rib so the rib on the skin would be
straight. I checked with Andy and Neville before making the change and
got their okay. I think this is a stronger solution, although the factory
fix will work
just fine.
The reason there is a rib on the skin is that during flight it was observed
that
the skin buckled between the ribs during high G maneuvers. The rib fixed
that problem.
If anyone is interested in more detail on how I did this I will be glad to
accommodate.
Regards,
John Eckel, A230
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle
>
> In fairness to the factory, I think that solution was applied worldwide!
> Andrew, if Mike can't find those instructions, I'm sure that if you
> contact
> the new factory, Andy will email them to you.
>
> I'm not sure I'd like to fly in the one with the moved joggles on the
> ribs... That bump is there for a reason :-(
>
> Kind regards,
> Jeremy
>
> Jeremy Davey
> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> PFA EC Member
> "If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
> is
> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
> Tail done
> Standard XS wings with mods underway
> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> 1250 build hours to date
> Intended fit:
> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle
>
>
> Andrew,
>
> That was one of the OOPS! that was found in many of the kits sold. Here in
> the States, the company had us remove the section of reinforcement on the
> skin
> and add a strip of foam covered by two layers of BID. I may still have the
> written instructions if you need them.
>
> I remember one builder that just repositioned the joggles at each rib.
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
> Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
> that.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ctsmallwood" <ctsmallwood(at)onetel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: europa parts wanted |
Hi
If your Europa is a MonoI have,as new the kit .U/cart ,wheel etc as we
converted
to Tri gear on initial build
Regards
Colin Smallwood
Derbyshire 01773570329
----- Original Message -----
From: j t <lansair4p(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Europa-List: europa parts wanted
>
> hi all
> i am looking for europa parts for a rebuild of a crashed aircraft
> i have managed to save the top half of the fus and i have most componants
> for the cokpit module is there any one that has any parts the want to sell
> thanks
>
> Express yourself with cool new emoticons
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
Bruno,
Thanks for your post...very interesting!
A couple of questions (indented as follows):
on 1/6/05 7:43 AM, UVTReith(at)aol.com at UVTReith(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> the M160 is a 82 HP 3-Cylinder turbocharched petrol engine from smart
> (Mercedes) and comes together with a Fly-Control System, called MIP-System.
> This is similar to the Rotax Fly-Dat, but can do much more. It will also
> prevent the engine for overheating etc.
> BUT:
> This engine was not good enough for my baby (Monowheel XS).
> The Mercedes-Benz tuner BRABUS has upgrated this nice engine to 102 HP.
What is the the source of the increase in power from 82 to 102 hp?
What is the weight of this puppy?
Fred
A194
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing top skin strip does not line up with joggle |
Hi John,
I had the same problem with the wing rib joggles when it first appeared.
Also before the mod was published. I contacted Europa at that time and got the
OK to move the joggles in the wing ribs and made sure there was plenty of
Araldite around the area when applying the skin.
As I remember ther was certainly no more that an inch in the error.
Regards Dave Park
Manchester UK
PS Top on now, rudder hung, instruments etc next(XS)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
Fred,
just looking at the (German and UK) web site of the Smart car
Smart makes a statement that this motor weighs 60KG or about 132 pounds
http://www.thesmart.co.uk/index.html
engine
* 3-cylinder suprex turbo engine (698 cc) with charge cooler
* electronic power management
* softip - automated sequential 6-speed transmission
* softouch - automatic gear programme with kickdown function
* weighing in at just 60kg, this lightweight engine delivers excellent fuel
economy. It's also compliant with the EU4 exhaust gas standard, which means
you pay lower car tax. softip offers close ratios and optimised gear-change
sequences and softouch includes a kickdown function, enabling spontaneous
gear shifts via the accelerator.
The Smart USA website www.usa.smart.com give next to no useful information
other then that Smart will be here in Detroit at the Auto show in a few
days. Looks like they will push on to the north American market as well ,
means parts will be maybe available here then ?? :<) . BTW it is the
engine from the Roadster and is engineered by Mercedes Benz.
Starts to get more and more interesting
Michael Grass
A266 Trigear
Detroit, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
>
> Bruno,
>
> Thanks for your post...very interesting!
>
> A couple of questions (indented as follows):
>
> on 1/6/05 7:43 AM, UVTReith(at)aol.com at UVTReith(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>
>> the M160 is a 82 HP 3-Cylinder turbocharched petrol engine from smart
>> (Mercedes) and comes together with a Fly-Control System, called
>> MIP-System.
>> This is similar to the Rotax Fly-Dat, but can do much more. It will also
>> prevent the engine for overheating etc.
>
>> BUT:
>> This engine was not good enough for my baby (Monowheel XS).
>> The Mercedes-Benz tuner BRABUS has upgrated this nice engine to 102 HP.
>
> What is the the source of the increase in power from 82 to 102 hp?
>
> What is the weight of this puppy?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
Hi all,
I just thought I'd let you know that I have published an update to my web site
detailing how I went about test flying my Europa. If you go to the left hand
pane you will see an expandable link titled "Flying Experiences"
http://europa363.versadev.com/
Cheers, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
Hi All,
My previous comments about running automotive power units at full power for
long periods still applies, these motors are fitted to silly little'' eco
warrior'' cars, usually driven by ''Greenpeace tree huggers'', they might do a
lot
to help prevent global warming, but looking at one [ addmitedly only from the
outside] I can't see it meeting our needs.
Before you all through your money away, wait until there are a 100 of them
flying, with over a thousand hours on each, then get your wallet out.
The mythical ''wonder motor'' is still a dream, this 'aint it .
Cheers,
Nev.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eamonn Sheridan" <esheridan1(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Europa XS 914 Trigear 1/2 share for sale |
I have a Europa XS 914 Turbo Tri-gear half share for sale. Built to a very high standard in 1999, she is based at Biggin Hill Kent. The aircraft has everything that you would wish for in a Europa, Constant speed prop, Full instrument panel, Nav Com, Transponder with Mode C. Skymap, Autopilot / Wing leveller. Finger brakes, Large flatbed trailer adapted for the Tri-gear, replacement engine fund (1000 Hrs) plus lots of other goodies. Airframe and engine have about 200 Hrs total. I'll check on that. I just never get the time to fly her now. I'm looking for offers in the region of =A319,900. You can view details and photos at http://www.alouette.org.uk/europa.htm
Eamonn Sheridan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Autopilot Advice |
Hi Everyone
Firstly Happy New Year to all
Can anyone help me with advice as to which type of autopilot to buy as I
am now considering fitting one. I have a skymap III installed and an
Apollo SL30 with VOR/GS and it would be nice to have an autopilot that
linked to at least one if not both of these. I have been advised to go
for either the Navaid or Truetrak, but I have no experience or knowledge
of either ?
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Advice |
I'm looking at going down the Trio EZ Pilot route - the hardware is very similar
indeed to the Navaids one (which I hope is going to make the Mod approval process
easier) but, it seems to offer a whole load more features (including solid
state gyros) for not much more money.
If you would be interested in this unit, we could work on the mod approval together
and maybe rival the hold that the Navaids unit seems to have.
if you want to discuss it off list, I'm pxr(at)globalnet.co.uk
Peter Rees
>
> From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> Date: 2005/01/07 Fri AM 10:19:02 GMT
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Autopilot Advice
>
>
> Hi Everyone
> Firstly Happy New Year to all
> Can anyone help me with advice as to which type of autopilot to buy as I
> am now considering fitting one. I have a skymap III installed and an
> Apollo SL30 with VOR/GS and it would be nice to have an autopilot that
> linked to at least one if not both of these. I have been advised to go
> for either the Navaid or Truetrak, but I have no experience or knowledge
> of either ?
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | UVTReith(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
In einer eMail vom 06.01.2005 22:44:12 Westeurop=E4ische Normalzeit schreibt
fklein(at)orcasonline.com:
Bruno,
Thanks for your post...very interesting!
A couple of questions (indented as follows):
on 1/6/05 7:43 AM, UVTReith(at)aol.com at UVTReith(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> the M160 is a 82 HP 3-Cylinder turbocharched petrol engine from smart
> (Mercedes) and comes together with a Fly-Control System, called MIP-System.
> This is similar to the Rotax Fly-Dat, but can do much more. It will also
> prevent the engine for overheating etc.
> BUT:
> This engine was not good enough for my baby (Monowheel XS).
> The Mercedes-Benz tuner BRABUS has upgrated this nice engine to 102 HP.
What is the the source of the increase in power from 82 to 102 hp?
What is the weight of this puppy?
Fred
A194
Hi Fred,
I have had just a short phonecall with Otto Funk and can give now some extra
information:
1.) Source of Increase from 82 - 102 HP:
Another Turbocharcher and increasing of the manifold pressure.
For this Mercedes made stronger crankshaft bearings and the valves out of
better material. The outer size of the engine is the same to the 82 HP
2.) Weight of this puppy
The total weight - Firewall forward including anything without cowling and
prop is 86 kg at present. They will change the generator to a lighter one and
will reduce weight on the stainless steel exhaust. Estimated weight saving
will be 3-4 kg.
Competition:
They had test flown two FK9 microlight (one with Rotax 912S / one with 82 hp
smart) and worked out, that the power of the 912S was less (beginning at
500-600 mtr) than the smart engine.
News:
Now they have installed the 60 hp turbocharched smart diesel into a Silence
single seater, normally equipped with the Jabiru 2200.
The weight of the smart diesel (firewall foreward as before) is about 96-98
kg.
For more info, please feel free to contact me at any time.
Kind Regards,
Bruno
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Autopilot Advice |
TruTracks seem to be going down well, too. I have one in G-EZZA, and I'm
aware of a few now being installed in the UK. Feedback is that that servos
are rather higher quality than the Navaid ones - apparently there have been
problems in the past in the area.
I particularly like the point that you can trade in your TruTrack head at
any point for a higher-level model - and just pay the difference. SO I could
trade in my alt-hold model for a VS model if I found a need.
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1250 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilot Advice
I'm looking at going down the Trio EZ Pilot route - the hardware is very
similar indeed to the Navaids one (which I hope is going to make the Mod
approval process easier) but, it seems to offer a whole load more features
(including solid state gyros) for not much more money.
If you would be interested in this unit, we could work on the mod approval
together and maybe rival the hold that the Navaids unit seems to have.
if you want to discuss it off list, I'm pxr(at)globalnet.co.uk
Peter Rees
>
> From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
> Date: 2005/01/07 Fri AM 10:19:02 GMT
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Autopilot Advice
>
<alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> Hi Everyone
> Firstly Happy New Year to all
> Can anyone help me with advice as to which type of autopilot to buy as I
> am now considering fitting one. I have a skymap III installed and an
> Apollo SL30 with VOR/GS and it would be nice to have an autopilot that
> linked to at least one if not both of these. I have been advised to go
> for either the Navaid or Truetrak, but I have no experience or knowledge
> of either ?
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Huntington <robertodue2002(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
To all,
Heed with earnest Nev's advice about automobile conversions. Having been a part
of numerous (more than 10) auto conversions on both a personal and professional
level, any savings (typically less than 10%) over a proven design is mitigated
by the fact that re-engineering (engine mount, cowling, propeller, cooling
system, redundancy, etc.) typically adds a minimum of 300% to the firewall forward
process, and usually results in a proven design being used in the end. Don't
forget, you are going to be up in the air when you are trusting the engine
to work and there's no place to pull over as in a car when things go wrong.
Just my 2 cents (US) worth.
Regards,
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
4863 E. Falcon Dr.
Mesa, AZ 85215
ph (480) 924-9750
email robertodue2002(at)yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Flap position warning |
Further to my recent post below, I have now found and installed a
suitable 'flaps not up' warner.
I used an auto interior light switch, the type that fits in the hinge
side of the door and switches the lights on when you open the door.
Bought from my local car accessory shop for about 1. I mounted this in
the aft bulkhead of the well in the baggage bay for the main gear
supports of my tri-gear. It is in such a position that the flap tube
depresses the button and switches the warning light off when it is in
the fully up position. Took a wire to the panel and connected it to a
Europa supplied red l.e.d. (2.50) which I positioned just above the
flap breaker which in my layout is also close to the flap switch.
Now, red light on, flaps not up, red light off, flaps up. Cheap, simple,
effective and works a treat. (Might be a bit more difficult in a mono
where the well is exposed and used for storage).
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Iddon
Subject: Europa-List: Flap position warning
I have a bad habit when things get a little busy, of forgetting to raise
my flaps occasionally after take off. I wondered if anyone had fitted a
'flap not up' indicator, perhaps a light or similar.
I have considered a momentary switch, normally closed, mounted adjacent
to the flap tube and depressed (to switch the light off) when the flaps
were fully up. This would illuminate an indicator light on the panel
whenever the flaps were not fully up but so far haven't been able to
find something suitable.
Any other idea's?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Huntington <robertodue2002(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Advice |
Hi Alan,
I would recommend the TruTrak Pictoral Pilot over the Navaid wholeheartedly, having
installed both.
Regards,
Rob Huntington
Phoenix Composites
4863 E. Falcon Dr.
Mesa, AZ 85215
ph (480) 924-9750
email robertodue2002(at)yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seasonal Greetings (The shape of things to come) |
To Europaphiles everywhere.
To One and All, From me ("the wishor") to you ("the wishee") Please
accept without obligation, implied or implicit, our best wishes for an
environmentally conscious, socially responsible, politically correct,
low stress, non-addictive, gender neutral, celebration of the summer
solstice holiday, practiced within the most enjoyable traditions of the
religious persuasion of your choice, or secular practices of your
choice, with respect for the religious/secular persuasions and/or
traditions of others, or choice not to practice religious or secular
traditions at all.
We wish you a financially successful, personally fulfilling and
medically uncomplicated recognition of the onset of the generally
accepted calendar year 2005, but with due respect for the calendars of
your choice of other cultures or sects, and having regard to the race,
creed, colour, age, physical ability, religious faith, choice of
computer platform or sexual preference of the wishee.
By accepting this greeting you are bound by these terms that: This
greeting is subject to further clarification or withdrawal. This
greeting is freely transferable provided that no alteration shall be
made to the original greeting and that the proprietary rights of the
wishor are acknowledged. This greeting implies no promise by the wishor
to actually implement any of the wishes. This greeting may not be
enforceable in certain jurisdictions and/or the restrictions herein may
not be binding upon certain wishes in certain jurisdictions and is
revocable at the sole discretion of the wishor. This greeting is
warranted to perform as reasonably may be expected within the usual
application of good tidings, for a period of one year or until the
issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever comes first. The
wishor warrants this greeting only for the limited replacement of this
wish or issuance of a new wish at the sole discretion of the wishor.
Any references in this greeting to "the Lord", "Father Christmas", "Our
Saviour", "Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer" or any other festive figures,
whether actual or fictitious, dead or alive, shall not imply any
endorsement by or from them in respect of this greeting and all
proprietary rights in any referenced third party names and images hereby
acknowledged.
This greeting is made under laws of the Commonwealth of Australia, The
United Kingdom and the United States of America, in the English language
(Microsoft UK Version).
Merry Christmas to all and have a Happy New Year for 2005.
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM> |
Why does the operators manual for the 914 say that aircraft equipped
with this engine must only fly in VFR conditions?
=====
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
The cynic in me wants to reply: "Because you haven't paid thousands of
pounds/dollars/euros more for the certified version? The label on yours is
different to the certified one."
Probably not entirely accurate, but possibly not entirely inaccurate,
either!
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
"If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation."
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1250 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
Subject: Europa-List: Rotax and IFR
Why does the operators manual for the 914 say that aircraft equipped
with this engine must only fly in VFR conditions?
=====
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
Answer to Fred's questions:
<>
Material on the web site says installed weight of 11lbs more than a 912S.
<>
Easy; turn up the boost (until it goes 'pop')!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
> Fred,
>
> just looking at the (German and UK) web site of the Smart car
> Smart makes a statement that this motor weighs 60KG or about 132 pounds
>
> http://www.thesmart.co.uk/index.html
>
> engine
> * 3-cylinder suprex turbo engine (698 cc) with charge cooler
> * electronic power management
> * softip - automated sequential 6-speed transmission
> * softouch - automatic gear programme with kickdown function
> * weighing in at just 60kg, this lightweight engine delivers excellent
fuel
> economy. It's also compliant with the EU4 exhaust gas standard, which
means
> you pay lower car tax. softip offers close ratios and optimised
gear-change
> sequences and softouch includes a kickdown function, enabling spontaneous
> gear shifts via the accelerator.
>
>
> The Smart USA website www.usa.smart.com give next to no useful
information
> other then that Smart will be here in Detroit at the Auto show in a few
> days. Looks like they will push on to the north American market as well ,
> means parts will be maybe available here then ?? :<) . BTW it is the
> engine from the Roadster and is engineered by Mercedes Benz.
>
>
> Starts to get more and more interesting
>
> Michael Grass
> A266 Trigear
> Detroit, MI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options
>
>
> >
> >
> > Bruno,
> >
> > Thanks for your post...very interesting!
> >
> > A couple of questions (indented as follows):
> >
> > on 1/6/05 7:43 AM, UVTReith(at)aol.com at UVTReith(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> >>
> >> the M160 is a 82 HP 3-Cylinder turbocharched petrol engine from smart
> >> (Mercedes) and comes together with a Fly-Control System, called
> >> MIP-System.
> >> This is similar to the Rotax Fly-Dat, but can do much more. It will
also
> >> prevent the engine for overheating etc.
> >
> >> BUT:
> >> This engine was not good enough for my baby (Monowheel XS).
> >> The Mercedes-Benz tuner BRABUS has upgrated this nice engine to 102
HP.
> >
> > What is the the source of the increase in power from 82 to 102
hp?
> >
> > What is the weight of this puppy?
> >
> > Fred
> > A194
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seasonal Greetings (The shape of things to come) |
Hi,
I am representing Randolph the brown nosed Reindeer, he is very distressed
that Rudolph the red nosed Reindeer gets all the attention, but he,[ Randolph
the brown nosed Reindeer] never gets a mention,
Randolph the brown nosed Reindeer is in the second row of Reindeers, in
Santa's Sliegh, on the port side, directly behind Rudolph.
He has asked me to tell everyone that he can accelerate as fast as Rudolph.
He has asked me to tell that he can go as fast as Rudolph.
He has asked me to tell that he can go as far as Rudolph.
However, he does admit that he can not stop as rapidly as
Rudolph.............................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
Wanted advert posted on behalf of Richard (D18 owner):
WANTED. Old style Europa tailwheel; have you a good wheel with tyre, axle
and fork looking for a new home? If so please 'phone Richard on 01509
853902.
Duncan McF.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seasonal Greetings (The shape of things to come) |
Nev
Have you been on the Moroccan woodbines again?
----- Original Message -----
From: <NevEyre(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Seasonal Greetings (The shape of things to come)
>
> Hi,
> I am representing Randolph the brown nosed Reindeer, he is very distressed
> that Rudolph the red nosed Reindeer gets all the attention, but he,[
> Randolph
> the brown nosed Reindeer] never gets a mention,
> Randolph the brown nosed Reindeer is in the second row of Reindeers, in
> Santa's Sliegh, on the port side, directly behind Rudolph.
> He has asked me to tell everyone that he can accelerate as fast as
> Rudolph.
> He has asked me to tell that he can go as fast as Rudolph.
> He has asked me to tell that he can go as far as Rudolph.
> However, he does admit that he can not stop as rapidly as
> Rudolph.............................
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old tailwheel |
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>
>
> Wanted advert posted on behalf of Richard (D18 owner):
>
> WANTED. Old style Europa tailwheel; have you a good wheel with tyre, axle
> and fork looking for a new home? If so please 'phone Richard on 01509
> 853902.
>
> Duncan McF.
OK - I contacted him at 10.40 pm and he is picking mine up tomorrow. Another
unused bit removed from the shelf in my garage !
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT! |
Dear Listers,
Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be
re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the
Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name
Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should
work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours
or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate
into the depths of the Internet.
If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a
bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it
again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of
Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even
notice! :-)
Thanks for your patience!
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Advice |
I have had a Trutrak for a year and am happy with it. Simple to install and
operate. Recently upgraded to the turn and bank indicator head which works
well.
Ken Carpenter
N 9XS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Autopilot Advice
> <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
>
> Hi Everyone
> Firstly Happy New Year to all
> Can anyone help me with advice as to which type of autopilot to buy as I
> am now considering fitting one. I have a skymap III installed and an
> Apollo SL30 with VOR/GS and it would be nice to have an autopilot that
> linked to at least one if not both of these. I have been advised to go
> for either the Navaid or Truetrak, but I have no experience or knowledge
> of either ?
>
> Alan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
Gidday all,
After just returning from picking up my servo from Trio for my autopilot
setup I thought I might share my experience. Firstly, Trio do not know I am
sending this to the list. The autopilot is designed by a fellow named Chuck
Busch, an experience electrical engineer working with elite suppliers to
military and NASA for over 20 years. He worked extensively on early
tracking systems for missile technology, including GPS in its infancy.
Suffice to say, he knows his stuff. In conjunction with his small team he
has built, test flown in his Long Eze, and then re-engineered the product
to achieve a very capable system. The product is evolving and they have
plans for altitude hold functionality in April this year, thereabouts. If
anyone is interested in autopilots, you should avail yourselves the
opportunity to deal with a company where they pride themselves on
communicating well with their customer base. I made over 10 enquiries
before making my choice and was always met with friendly advice. They can
be reviewed at
http://www.trioavionics.com/
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger
Currently working on Rudder Pedals,
In but tight so more work to go on them.
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig,
Tail Torque Tube installed with temporary timber dowels.
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Roof Panel between doors completed.
Photos at:
http://forum.okhuijsen.org/TonyR
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Garmin 296 Colour GPS beneath an electronic Artificial
Horizon, one that I can trust for short periods IMC, to get out of a sticky
situation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Good Day All,
I have started noticing more emails from people that, for one reason or
another, need some parts for their aircraft and people that have "extras" that
they would like to part with. But since we are all friends in this endeavor,
both sides want to do what's right so that the sharing makes both sides feel
good. However the sticking point is usually the price because neither party
knows how much many of these parts are worth. Is there someone out there that
has any kind of a parts list that might give a ballpark value that can be used
during these transactions? I think that it could help if this was available
for all parties concerned.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Just about to put the top on but still finding little things to do before
that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Prices on Parts |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
I noticed your email about noticing the pickup in parts swapping.
I also noticed that I was looking for a part, saw one listed, asked if anyone would
sell the individual parts on a mono wheel gear and got no answer.
Anyway... I digress, I've made a Buy, Sell, Trade section on the EuropaOwners Forum.
You can post what you have for sale or need there. That way you can go to
one place and see what's what. It may also help in setting market values on
parts. A sort of Europabay....
Geez I'm tired....
Chat Later,
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net> |
Hi All,
Happy New Year!
I know a number of people have taken the fuel vent tube from the
tank, up to a tee into the top of the filler neck, and then to a vent
low down on the fuselage side.
This seems to me to be a good plan, and I was thinking of following
suit. However, when I was cleaning the mud off the fus underside, it
occurred to me there might be a problem with mud and/or water being
thrown up into the vent, causing it all to go quiet.
Any comments?
It also seems to be a good idea to increase the dia. of the vent
tube
in the top of the tank to 3/8" and keep that dia. up to the tee in the
filler neck, to make refueling a bit quicker. Can anyone see any
problems with this?
Many thanks,
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi! Paddy.
I run with no vents out the top of the fuselage. However I vent into a
sealed anti siphon bottle in the port ceiling which returns any
overspill back to the main tank filler. The vent then continues from the
higher end of this bottle over the top to an exit vent in the port floor
just by the flap drive lever.
You need to have an anti-siphon arrangement to ensure the system isn't
dumping fuel as you fly.
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paddy
Clarke
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel Vents
Hi All,
Happy New Year!
I know a number of people have taken the fuel vent tube
from the
tank, up to a tee into the top of the filler neck, and then to a vent
low down on the fuselage side.
This seems to me to be a good plan, and I was thinking
of following
suit. However, when I was cleaning the mud off the fus underside, it
occurred to me there might be a problem with mud and/or water being
thrown up into the vent, causing it all to go quiet.
Any comments?
It also seems to be a good idea to increase the dia. of
the vent tube
in the top of the tank to 3/8" and keep that dia. up to the tee in the
filler neck, to make refueling a bit quicker. Can anyone see any
problems with this?
Many thanks,
Paddy Clarke
Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | It's not easy when you're stupid |
Cheers,
Clear as my mind can be (at times) it has recently rebelled over a
simple paradox involving vents. I plan a bellyside outlet for the
suction-block bottle in the fuel vent department.
I note also the remarks of several regarding mud and crud along the
belly due to various manoeuvres, planned and otherwise, during landing and
takeoff. As a monowheel manipulator, I cannot get the shape of the (say)
1/4inch [6mm] diameter vent sitting out in the slipstream whether the tip
should be hacked off at 90deg (hipress?), or scarfed at 45deg (top or botm?)
or tapered horizontally or whatever.
Having had trouble explaining oak leaves and mud on the bottom of
several Harvards in earlier days, I can't seem to correlate the vision with
a mudfree vent for my Europa. Your considered opinions, severally and
separately, would hopefully disarm this quandary. Secondarily of course it
may prompt a vicious and viral debate which could destroy the site for
weeks.
Shamelessly,
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
Duncan,
You wrote:
> Answer to Fred's questions:
> <>
>
> Material on the web site says installed weight of 11lbs more than a 912S.
>
> <>
>
> Easy; turn up the boost (until it goes 'pop')!
>
> Duncan McF.
...a few thoughts from my armchair...
It strikes me that "turn(ing) up the boost" is akin to starting with the 912
@ 80 hp and either, increasing the compression to bump the hp up to 100 (the
912S), or adding the turbo and bumping the hp up to 115 w/ the 914. In
either case, in varying ways, stresses are increased...not to the extent
that the engine "goes 'pop'!" since there is no history (that I'm aware of)
of the Rotax experiencing failure of its basic components. However, the
record appears to show failures of accessories (e.g., clutch, starter),
exhaust system and wiring which are logically attributed to the increase in
power beyond that of the original 80 hp engine.
What's amazing to me about the Smart engine is that it's sucking 102 hp out
of 700 cc's...and I can't help but wonder if it's "smart" to use it in our
unforgiving aerial environment. (?) Course if it's 11 lbs. heavier than the
912S, it could be quite a robust little puppy.
Fred
A194
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It's not easy when you're stupid |
I only fitted one vent on top of the fuselage as detailed in the build
manual. One vent was not required as I discarded the fuel sight tube when I
fitted the capacitance fuel gauging system. In practice I have found the
vent, close to the filler, very useful during refuel. The hissing of
displaced air and the bubbling gives a very good indication on approaching a
full tank. Saves unnecessary overflow, which invariably runs down the
fuselage side and into the flap slot, causing a bad fuel smell until it has
all evaporated.
regards,
Mike Parkin (G-JULZ)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: It's not easy when you're stupid
>
> Cheers,
> Clear as my mind can be (at times) it has recently rebelled over a
> simple paradox involving vents. I plan a bellyside outlet for the
> suction-block bottle in the fuel vent department.
> I note also the remarks of several regarding mud and crud along the
> belly due to various manoeuvres, planned and otherwise, during landing and
> takeoff. As a monowheel manipulator, I cannot get the shape of the (say)
> 1/4inch [6mm] diameter vent sitting out in the slipstream whether the tip
> should be hacked off at 90deg (hipress?), or scarfed at 45deg (top or
> botm?)
> or tapered horizontally or whatever.
> Having had trouble explaining oak leaves and mud on the bottom of
> several Harvards in earlier days, I can't seem to correlate the vision
> with
> a mudfree vent for my Europa. Your considered opinions, severally and
> separately, would hopefully disarm this quandary. Secondarily of course it
> may prompt a vicious and viral debate which could destroy the site for
> weeks.
> Shamelessly,
> Ferg
> A064
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
>
> However, the record appears to show failures of
> accessories (e.g., clutch, starter), exhaust system and
> wiring which are logically attributed to the increase in
> power beyond that of the original 80 hp engine.
>
What record? If you're referring to anecdotal reports on small email
lists, then you can't, IMO, compare that to the fact there apparently
are no such anecdotal reports from a much smaller user base of a given
nonaircraft engine. It may be a good engine, but more objective data
for the Rotax is obtainable from FAA and NTSB, and the implied service
record there is excellent. Also, Rotax Service Bulletins I feel are
another reference point as to actual service history Rotax believes is
significant.
NTSB data also shows that, for automotive engines as a whole, the
accident data where engine failure is a factor is the worst of all.
Second to that are, not Rotax 4-strokes, but Lycomings, where I
rationalize that builders will tend use ones of questionable
maintenance "provenance," or overhaul them by themselves.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Harrison" <naharrison(at)manx.net> |
Dear All,
Like Alan Burrows I am aiming to put an autopilot into my Europa. I have
chosen the Trutrak Digitrak because it interfaces with the Grand Rapids
Horizon 1 EFIS that I plan to install. Can anyone tell me whether I need to
to get authorisation from the PFA to install the Trutrak or is it already an
accepted modification? Likewise the EFIS - does this require PFA approval?
Happy New Year to all.
Nigel Harrison
****************************************************************
This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
http://www.manx.net/default.asp?id=25
****************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: It's not easy when you're stupid |
The vent needs to be forward facing in order that that the tank and fuel
supply benefit from a small amount of pressurisation. This is equivalent to
only 2' head of fuel at 150mph, but enough to overcome the head losses
between the bottom of the tank and the inlet to the backup fuel pump, so is
significant given that pumps have little ability to suck and any suction is
bad for inhibiting vapour locking.
Who knows what the pressure in the tank will be if the vent is otherwise
sited below the fus. aft of the cockpit.
Certainly, if the aft-positioned fuel cap is left off a Europa during flight
then there is enough suction in the area of the open filler and therefore
the tank be able to pull all of the fuel out of the sight gauge.
Could be quite an interesting challenge to prevent an underside
forward-facing vent from blocking!
Duncan Mcf.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Europa-List: It's not easy when you're stupid
>
> Cheers,
> Clear as my mind can be (at times) it has recently rebelled over a
> simple paradox involving vents. I plan a bellyside outlet for the
> suction-block bottle in the fuel vent department.
> I note also the remarks of several regarding mud and crud along
the
> belly due to various manoeuvres, planned and otherwise, during landing and
> takeoff. As a monowheel manipulator, I cannot get the shape of the (say)
> 1/4inch [6mm] diameter vent sitting out in the slipstream whether the tip
> should be hacked off at 90deg (hipress?), or scarfed at 45deg (top or
botm?)
> or tapered horizontally or whatever.
> Having had trouble explaining oak leaves and mud on the bottom of
> several Harvards in earlier days, I can't seem to correlate the vision
with
> a mudfree vent for my Europa. Your considered opinions, severally and
> separately, would hopefully disarm this quandary. Secondarily of course it
> may prompt a vicious and viral debate which could destroy the site for
> weeks.
> Shamelessly,
> Ferg
> A064
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | It's not easy when you're stupid |
Hi! Ferg.
IMHO it doesn't need to exit the fuselage bottom at all if situated
alongside the flap actuating hinge slots. Also in that position the
operation of the flaps will ensure that no "crud" is preventing the
venting working. To have the vent into the air stream pointing forward
will pressurise the system and pointing rearwards could promote fuel to
be sucked out and a siphon starting.
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle
Subject: Europa-List: It's not easy when you're stupid
Cheers,
Clear as my mind can be (at times) it has recently rebelled over
a
simple paradox involving vents. I plan a bellyside outlet for the
suction-block bottle in the fuel vent department.
I note also the remarks of several regarding mud and crud along
the
belly due to various manoeuvres, planned and otherwise, during landing
and
takeoff. As a monowheel manipulator, I cannot get the shape of the (say)
1/4inch [6mm] diameter vent sitting out in the slipstream whether the
tip
should be hacked off at 90deg (hipress?), or scarfed at 45deg (top or
botm?)
or tapered horizontally or whatever.
Having had trouble explaining oak leaves and mud on the bottom
of
several Harvards in earlier days, I can't seem to correlate the vision
with
a mudfree vent for my Europa. Your considered opinions, severally and
separately, would hopefully disarm this quandary. Secondarily of course
it
may prompt a vicious and viral debate which could destroy the site for
weeks.
Shamelessly,
Ferg
A064
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall choice and Rotax Engine order options |
| From: | "Fred R. Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
Hi Fred F.,
In comment to my post, you write:
> What record? If you're referring to anecdotal reports on small email
> lists, then you can't, IMO, compare that to the fact there apparently
> are no such anecdotal reports from a much smaller user base of a given
> nonaircraft engine.
Well...shoot me! :)
My use of the word "record" was just to the postings on our little Europa
forum...postings of particular interest as they reflect the Europa/Rotax
combination, rather than the Rotax itself and whatever quirks it may pick up
in combo w/ other aircraft.
It was not my intention to make any comparison with nonaircraft engines
(particularly those with, thus far, only prototypical histories), or
Lycomings for that matter...I actually thought I was simply stating a fact
about which there would be no disagreement. I'll be much more careful w/ my
words in the future.
And...for the record...ever since I tapped into the Europa list, I've read
your postings w/ great interest and appreciation for your obvious broad and
deep technical knowledge and experience...thanks for being willing to share
it on this forum!
Fred K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
I submitted to the PFA details and drawings for this mod 27 months ago and
further details (including Inspector's sign-off and the drawings reformatted
to PFA requirements) 3 months ago. Still waiting!.
I think there is at least one flying in the UK at the moment.
PFA authorisation is definitely req'd.
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Harrison" <naharrison(at)manx.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Autopilots
>
>
> Dear All,
> Like Alan Burrows I am aiming to put an autopilot into my Europa. I have
> chosen the Trutrak Digitrak because it interfaces with the Grand Rapids
> Horizon 1 EFIS that I plan to install. Can anyone tell me whether I need
to
> to get authorisation from the PFA to install the Trutrak or is it already
an
> accepted modification? Likewise the EFIS - does this require PFA approval?
> Happy New Year to all.
> Nigel Harrison
>
>
> ****************************************************************
> This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
> http://www.manx.net/default.asp?id=25
> ****************************************************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
Ni Nigel
As far as your EFIS is concerned, I've had an E-mail from Andrew Moore (PFA
Chief Engineer) on the subject as I intend to fit a Dynon (wish I'd seen the
Blue Mountain EFIS Lite earlier!) - you don't need to go through the mod
process to fit one but as it (if its the same as the dynon) requires you do
cut into the Static and Pitot lines, you do need to make a log book entry
and have your inspector sign it off.
My thoughts on the Autopilot (I'm going to fit the EZ Pilot as it seems to
offer a bucket load more features than the Trutrak or Navaids for very
little more money). The Europa club has been though the mod process with the
navaids one - you can fit that under sign off of your inspector (as long as
you follow the europa clubs documentation) - if you want to fit something
else, you need to file a mod application to the PFA and wait in the (very
long) queue. Other than the upgrade plan, is there any real advantage to the
Truetrak over the Navaids one? If you've not looked at the EZ pilot, give it
a quick look - it should interface to almost any GPS and the guys there seem
to be very friendly and exceedingly helpful - it has loads of nice features
but costs almost exactly the same as the Truetrak.
Thats my thoughts anyway - if you find anything is incorrect, it would help
for you to put me straight.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nigel Harrison" <naharrison(at)manx.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Autopilots
>
>
> Dear All,
> Like Alan Burrows I am aiming to put an autopilot into my Europa. I have
> chosen the Trutrak Digitrak because it interfaces with the Grand Rapids
> Horizon 1 EFIS that I plan to install. Can anyone tell me whether I need
> to
> to get authorisation from the PFA to install the Trutrak or is it already
> an
> accepted modification? Likewise the EFIS - does this require PFA approval?
> Happy New Year to all.
> Nigel Harrison
>
>
> ****************************************************************
> This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
> http://www.manx.net/default.asp?id=25
> ****************************************************************
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | It's not easy when you're stupid |
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Received-SPF: none
>> Who knows what the pressure in the tank will be if the vent is otherwise
sited below the fus. aft of the cockpit.
Venting to static rather than to pressure isn't an issue. One of the Europa demonstrators
was fitted with a static vent rather than a pitot vent to test the
prototype of what became my fuel gauge and this showed that it isn't a problem.
There are quite a few Europas now flying without the top vents and I haven't
heard of any problems to date with this configuration.
>> Certainly, if the aft-positioned fuel cap is left off a Europa during flight
then there is enough suction in the area of the open filler and therefore
the tank be able to pull all of the fuel out of the sight gauge.
Having done a 1 hour flight with the fuel cap missing in a top vented europa (it
was still hooked on the filler vents when I landed!), I can tell you that there
was no visible indication in flight that the tank was pulling all of the fuel
out of the sight gauge! Lesson learnt, won't do that again. :)
Regards
Tony
[Panel powered up, no smoke so far]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
Glad to see that the PFA is up to its usual pathetic standard at turning
round modification proposals. I did once take them on over their slow
response to mod paperwork - they closed ranks and blamed just about
everything from single skies to EAA proposals. In the end I gave up on the
grounds that life is too short.
regards,
MP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilots
>
>
> I submitted to the PFA details and drawings for this mod 27 months ago and
> further details (including Inspector's sign-off and the drawings
> reformatted
> to PFA requirements) 3 months ago. Still waiting!.
>
> I think there is at least one flying in the UK at the moment.
> PFA authorisation is definitely req'd.
>
>
> Duncan McF
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nigel Harrison" <naharrison(at)manx.net>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Autopilots
>
>
>>
>>
>> Dear All,
>> Like Alan Burrows I am aiming to put an autopilot into my Europa. I have
>> chosen the Trutrak Digitrak because it interfaces with the Grand Rapids
>> Horizon 1 EFIS that I plan to install. Can anyone tell me whether I need
> to
>> to get authorisation from the PFA to install the Trutrak or is it already
> an
>> accepted modification? Likewise the EFIS - does this require PFA
>> approval?
>> Happy New Year to all.
>> Nigel Harrison
>>
>>
>> ****************************************************************
>> This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
>> http://www.manx.net/default.asp?id=25
>> ****************************************************************
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: It's not easy when you're stupid |
Hi all,
I put the vent in the wing root to avoid the problem of mud blocking the
vent and although it works I occasionally get the smell of fuel when I am
in a climb. I think the smell is coming from the vent and in through the
flap tube slots, (this is an unproven theory.) It doesn't always occur,
often I can go for several weeks and then I can smell it again. Its very
slight and goes away once you level off.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: It's not easy when you're stupid |
<<> Venting to static rather than to pressure isn't an issue>>
It is if you want to give yourself the best possible chance of minimising
vapour lock problems with Mogas. The pressurisation available goes a long
way to cancelling the effects of suction-side head losses (outlet fittings,
elbows, fuel valves, filters, unnecessarily long and narrow fuel lines, etc)
that can easily induce vapour formation.
<>
I've tried that too! Only, as stated, all of the fuel is sucked out of the
fuel sight gauge. My filler is in a slightly higher location than standard
XS, but lower down than Classic.
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: It's not easy when you're stupid
>
>
> >> Who knows what the pressure in the tank will be if the vent is
otherwise
> sited below the fus. aft of the cockpit.
>
> Venting to static rather than to pressure isn't an issue. One of the
Europa demonstrators was fitted with a static vent rather than a pitot vent
to test the prototype of what became my fuel gauge and this showed that it
isn't a problem. There are quite a few Europas now flying without the top
vents and I haven't heard of any problems to date with this configuration.
>
> >> Certainly, if the aft-positioned fuel cap is left off a Europa during
flight
> then there is enough suction in the area of the open filler and therefore
> the tank be able to pull all of the fuel out of the sight gauge.
>
> Having done a 1 hour flight with the fuel cap missing in a top vented
europa (it was still hooked on the filler vents when I landed!), I can tell
you that there was no visible indication in flight that the tank was pulling
all of the fuel out of the sight gauge! Lesson learnt, won't do that again.
:)
>
> Regards
>
> Tony
>
> [Panel powered up, no smoke so far]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
<>
I think that one of the benefits of Trutrak's Digitrak is its beguiling
simplicity (its a sophisticated bit of kit that is very easy and intuitive
to use) and I'm not convinced that all the additional features of the Trio
are actually needed. But then I've no experience of the latter and can never
remember easily how to programme a VCR, although I admit that the Trio has
more of a draw in marketing terms.
As regards the Navaid, it's first-generation and now looks dated alongside
the Digitrak; the dynamics in particular (e.g. in turbulence) bear no
comparison.
As regards <>, I've found that they
don't.
Whilst most GPS sets have NMEA output, the NMEA protocol allows data
elements to be omitted (so long as the separation commas in the data
sentence are left in place). This often means that all the data needed by
the autopilot is not present and the thing won't work. I've found that early
versions of the Garmin GPS Pilot III and many non-aviation handhelds have
this problem. Garmin's older 195 (a larger version of the Pilot III) works
OK as do Skymaps. Otherwise its best to get a written assurance from the AP
manufacturer that their product will work with "x" brand of GPS; unless you
like the challenge of endless snagging.
Another "con" is the update frequency. Whilst many GPS sets update
internally at 1 second intervals, the data output is more often at 3 second
intervals, which can be a bit slow for effective AP operation in some
circumstances, especially around waypoint turns.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilots
>
> Ni Nigel
>
> As far as your EFIS is concerned, I've had an E-mail from Andrew Moore
(PFA
> Chief Engineer) on the subject as I intend to fit a Dynon (wish I'd seen
the
> Blue Mountain EFIS Lite earlier!) - you don't need to go through the mod
> process to fit one but as it (if its the same as the dynon) requires you
do
> cut into the Static and Pitot lines, you do need to make a log book entry
> and have your inspector sign it off.
>
> My thoughts on the Autopilot (I'm going to fit the EZ Pilot as it seems to
> offer a bucket load more features than the Trutrak or Navaids for very
> little more money). The Europa club has been though the mod process with
the
> navaids one - you can fit that under sign off of your inspector (as long
as
> you follow the europa clubs documentation) - if you want to fit something
> else, you need to file a mod application to the PFA and wait in the (very
> long) queue. Other than the upgrade plan, is there any real advantage to
the
> Truetrak over the Navaids one? If you've not looked at the EZ pilot, give
it
> a quick look - it should interface to almost any GPS and the guys there
seem
> to be very friendly and exceedingly helpful - it has loads of nice
features
> but costs almost exactly the same as the Truetrak.
>
> Thats my thoughts anyway - if you find anything is incorrect, it would
help
> for you to put me straight.
>
> Peter
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nigel Harrison" <naharrison(at)manx.net>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Autopilots
>
>
> >
> >
> > Dear All,
> > Like Alan Burrows I am aiming to put an autopilot into my Europa. I have
> > chosen the Trutrak Digitrak because it interfaces with the Grand Rapids
> > Horizon 1 EFIS that I plan to install. Can anyone tell me whether I need
> > to
> > to get authorisation from the PFA to install the Trutrak or is it
already
> > an
> > accepted modification? Likewise the EFIS - does this require PFA
approval?
> > Happy New Year to all.
> > Nigel Harrison
> >
> >
> > ****************************************************************
> > This email has been scanned by the Manxnet Mail Plus anti-virus system.
> > http://www.manx.net/default.asp?id=25
> > ****************************************************************
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
All
I "FINELY" got my Digitrack auto pilot working and calibrated. It works best
with a GPS track input. If you don't have that available, I think you
should get something else. The track data must be presented in the correct
format and at a 1 second repetition rate. I had to install a second GPS
receiver to supply this signal. Bought it from TrueTrack. (it was made by
Garman).
I will second the simplicity of operation statement. I have to get the book
out for some things , but the AP. It is just too simple.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | FW: YOUNG TSUNAMI VICTIM - Kennt jemand diesen Jungen? (fwd) |
Hi! All This is not spam. Kindly take a minute of your time to read
down and look at the attached photos.
Sorry for posting this off topic item but I think it warrants an
exception to the rules. I have seen the picture before either on TV or
press coverage.
His complexion looks Scandinavian to me so perhaps our friends over
there will pay special attention to the request and even if they don=92t
recognise him try to get it circulating on all the Swedish,Norweigian,
Danish circuits. It is a shame they don=92t say which language he speaks?
Regards
Bob Harrison
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: JOSEPHINE white [mailto:josephine.white1(at)btinternet.com]
Subject: Fw: YOUNG TSUNAMI VICTIM - Kennt jemand diesen Jungen? (fwd)
----- Original Message -----
From: Stan <mailto:stan(at)greencorner.fsnet.co.uk> Parr
Subject: YOUNG TSUNAMI VICTIM - Kennt jemand diesen Jungen? (fwd)
ANYBODY KNOW THIS YOUNG FELLOW, PLEASE?
PLEASE FORWARD TO ALL YOUR FRIENDS - WE CAN BUT HOPE. (Nice little lad!)
THANK YOU.
Stan.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Butterfield <mailto:john.butterfield(at)ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Fw: Kennt jemand diesen Jungen? (fwd)
Hi Stan,
I am passing on an Email I have received from my son in-law, who in
turn received it from his brother in Australia.
I am asking you if you would be so kind as to whack the email right
across your network.
To me, the poor kid looks European.
All the best,
John.
----- Original Message -----
From: Nick Haley <mailto:NHaley(at)BARf1.com>
Cath Mitch (E-mail) ; Dad
(E-mail) ; Dave
Calder (E-mail) ; Dave Mathews
(E-mail) ; Emma. Armstrong
(E-mail) emma.armstrong@retail-logic.com> ; Grant
Sisterson (E-mail) ; Ian
Ian.Peyman@honda-eu.com> Peyman (E-mail) ; Jane
Brown (E-mail) ; John Butterfield
(E-mail) ; Mum (E-mail)
; Phil
Eggleton (E-mail) ; Roger Work
(E-mail) ; Sean John.Trickey@honda-eu.com> Trickey (E-mail) ;
Tommy Mitchell (E-mail) ; Tony
Janet Eggleton
(E-mail) ; Tony Styles Home (E-mail)
Subject: FW: Kennt jemand diesen Jungen? (fwd)
-----Original Message-----
From: Joerg Zander
Subject: FW: Kennt jemand diesen Jungen? (fwd)
Dear Friends,
Please take a look at the attached picture of this victim from Tsunami.
If you do not know him, please forward his
pictures to your friends or organization in your country for further
publication.
This boy is about 2 years old. Found and taken from Khao Lak Resort
Area, the southern part of Thailand. His parents are missing. His
nationality & identity cannot be established.
Please contact Dr. Anuroj Tharasiriroj of Phuket International Hospital
Phone: +66 76 249-400, <http://www.phuket-inter-hospital.co.th>
I thank you all for extending kindness to this boy.
With kind regards,
Tess Ruktapurana
Thai Airways International PCL
--------------------------------------------------------
Die Emails von Plan Deutschland sind auf Viren gepr=FCft.
Wir danken Trend Micro f=FCr die kostenlose Bereitstellung der Software.
--------------------------------------------------------
(See attached file: cimg1008.jpg)
(See attached file: cimg1007.jpg)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Sue Sisley" <bill.sue(at)zip.co.nz> |
on dbmail-mx1
Mine is set up like this.
The vent line from the tank goes up to the neck of the filler approx 50mm
from the top.
The breather to air is from a second line from the other side of the filler
neck and down to the bottom of the fuselage.
The bottom vent is a static vent behind the starboard flap hinge cover (I
have the speed
kit) and has never had any dirt near it. I do often operate in "very muddy"
conditions but this area always stays clean.
There is no way it can siphon as there is the break in the line at the top
of the filler.
ZK CHV
XS Mono 914 Airmaster
245hrs
Sue and Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paddy Clarke" <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel Vents
>
> Hi All,
> Happy New Year!
> I know a number of people have taken the fuel vent tube
from the
> tank, up to a tee into the top of the filler neck, and then to a vent
> low down on the fuselage side.
> This seems to me to be a good plan, and I was thinking of
following
> suit. However, when I was cleaning the mud off the fus underside, it
> occurred to me there might be a problem with mud and/or water being
> thrown up into the vent, causing it all to go quiet.
> Any comments?
> It also seems to be a good idea to increase the dia. of
the vent tube
> in the top of the tank to 3/8" and keep that dia. up to the tee in the
> filler neck, to make refueling a bit quicker. Can anyone see any
> problems with this?
> Many thanks,
> Paddy Clarke
>
> Europa XS - 404 G-KIMM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDHeykoop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 08/01/05 18:05:53 GMT Standard Time, naharrison(at)manx.net
writes:
> Can anyone tell me whether I need to
> to get authorisation from the PFA to install the Trutrak
Yes, you do need PFA approval. I got approval (mod # 10711) very quickly,
probably because I presented it as a simple variant of the Europa club mod for
the Navaid. In other words, I said that I proposed to install the Tru Trak as
per the already approved mod for the Navaid, except for a few minor differences,
which I detailed in my application. My mod was for a new build and would be
difficult to install as a retrofit, but if you want to borrow from it I can
sent you details off forum.
John Heykoop
XS Mono #536 G-JHKP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | FW: YOUNG TSUNAMI VICTIM - Kennt jemand diesen Jungen? |
(fwd)
ALL,
Sorry about any inconvenience caused by my forgetting that the forum
doesn't accept attachments but in the circumstances no matter what it
was important to make the effort.
Regards
Bob Harrison.
-----Original Message-----
From: Miles McCallum [mailto:milesm(at)avnet.co.uk]
Subject: Re: Europa-List: FW: YOUNG TSUNAMI VICTIM - Kennt jemand diesen
Jungen? (fwd)
Bob - can't post on the matronics list - perhaps you could...
Miles McCallum.
To all who received the email with picture of blonde child, it seems
that he has been reunited with
his family. The article below is an associated press article:
Posted on Tue, Dec. 28, 2004
Swedish 2-year-old reunited with uncle
By ALISA TANG
Associated Press
PHUKET, Thailand - A 2-year-old boy who was found dazed and alone
on a roadside in the
wasteland of a tsunami-devastated Thai resort was reunited Tuesday with
his uncle, who spotted the
child's picture on the Internet.
The boy, identified by his uncle as Hannes Bergstroem, was found
Sunday night on a road in
Phang Nga province near the beach resort of Khao Lak, about 60 miles
from the island of Phuket. He
was taken to Phuket International Hospital where the staff posted
pictures of the blond-haired boy
with red spots all over his face from mosquito bites on its Web site on
Monday. They also published
his photo in a local newspaper.
The Swedish newspaper Aftonbladet reported the boy's mother and
grandmother were missing. His
father and grandfather were believed to be in another hospital in
Thailand, but their exact location
and condition were not immediately known.
A man, who identified himself only as Jim, told the Associated
Press on Tuesday in a telephone
interview that he found his nephew after he saw his picture on the Web.
"When I saw Hannes on the Internet, I booked an air ticket to come
here in less than five
hours," said Jim, who rushed to the Phuket hospital on Tuesday from
Chonburi province in Thailand,
hours away from Phuket, where he was staying. "This is a miracle, the
biggest thing that could
happen."
Hospital staff said the boy had been babbling but workers did not
know what language he was
speaking They thought he might be Swedish because he was enthusiastic
when a man spoke Swedish to
him.
"He looked bleak when he arrived at the hospital on Sunday night
with some surface wounds on
his face and body," said Vilad Mumbansao, a hospital staff member.
After the hospital published pictures of the boy, dozens of
parents desperate to find missing
children turned up, hoping he was theirs. But all left disappointed
except the uncle.
The uncle said five of his family members from Goteborg in
southwest Sweden were on a
monthlong vacation in Thailand when the giant waves struck. The family
had spent their last few days
in Khao Lak, where surging waves swept away hundreds of tourists and
trapped people inside flooded
buildings.
Tens of thousands of people were killed in 11 countries from Asia
to Africa after Sunday's
massive earthquake off the Indonesian island of Sumatra sent 500 mph
waves surging across the Indian
Ocean and Bay of Bengal. More than 1,500 were killed in Thailand, among
them more than 700 tourists
vacationing at resorts on Phuket island and elsewhere.
It is feared that many children may have been orphaned by the
disaster.
The Swedish Gulbstrand family found 7-year-old Swede Karl Nilsson
- called by the nickname
Kalle - sitting along in a Buddhist temple on Phuket on Monday. His
parents and two brothers were
lost. The Gulbstrands took him in and have been caring for him.
"All night, when he heard the noise of a truck or car, Kalle woke
up and asked me, `Is it
another wave coming?'" said Marie Gulbstrand, a doctor.
Gulbstrand, from Stockholm, said her family was in the temple -
temporarily converted into a
shelter - when she heard cries. Her son ran to her calling "Mammy,
mammy, there is a little Swedish
boy. Come see him."
Kalle, wearing only underwear, had a broken collar bone, bruises
and cuts. He screamed as a
medical worker stitched his torn feet without anesthetic.
Gulbstrand said Kalle - pale, with dark half-rings under his eyes
- was clearly in shock. That
night the doctor slept alongside him, and on Tuesday he told her his
story.
He'd been in a hotel room Sunday morning with his brothers,
5-year-old Olof and Vilgot, 3. His
parents, Thomas and Asa, of Lulea, Sweden, were outside.
Suddenly water gushed into the room.
"He told me, `I was under the water but somehow I could breathe. I
was just closing my eyes
and moving with the waves. Then, suddenly the flood ended and I was in
another city.," Gulbstrand
said.
He was actually still in the same place, only disoriented and
battered beyond recognition by
the tsunami.
Wandering alone, he was eventually helped by some Thai people and
a Swedish couple who took
him to a Buddhist temple, one of many serving as emergency shelters.
On Tuesday night, Kalle was watching cartoons in a room at the
Phuket Island Pavilion hotel,
where he was staying with the Gulbstrands and some of their friends.
In other rooms, other parents hoped their missing children would
somehow return to them from
the deadly waters.
Hospital officials in Phuket said Tuesday they also were looking
for Norbert and Edeltraud
Michl, parents of a 10-year-old German girl, Sophia Michl, who they were
caring for. She has cuts
and bruises on her face.
On the Web:
Phuket International Hospital, children's photo:
http://www.phuket-inter-hospital.co.th/boy.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | GCCUL Flight Test Update |
Thought I would drop a line to outline our progress with 336 to date on the flight
test programme. First flight was 10 December and with the exception of a minor
problem with the lowering of the gear, all went pretty well, total first
day 45 mins, 2 flights.
Next venture after a thorough inspection (which after fixing the gear problem found
no problems) was a one hour flight which allowed the test pilot to complete
further handling, ASI calibration, engine handling, etc, no problems found.
Next flight same day again one hour allowed completion of all stall work, cruise
performance, max straight and level, VNE, and climb performance. After this
flight during the roll out the rudder return spring on the passenger side came
off and the rudder failed to achieve full right deflection. Not a problem,
as it happened during parking. This was the only mechanical fault to date, and
aside from a slight tendency to roll right (pilot advises 3.5deg/sec. Not drastic,
but a good idea to review and look at rectification), and the trim indicator
is almost full deflection to maintain straight and level, but maintains
authority to 155 Knots, all is pretty good.
The stall work which we had been told would be very hairy and violent by another
test pilot, proved to be completely text book, with 44/49 Knots, buffet, gentle
nodding etc flaps / gear up / down / power on / off accelerated stalls all
good and to book numbers.
VNE dive no problem (more like a bit of a decent !)
Climb to spec (can't remember the exact numbers as Paul has yet to complete the
report, but he ran out of airspace before time!!)
5000 RPM 23.8"boiler pressure straight and level full fuel, two adults 125 Knots
(pleased with that, no speed kit fittted, and the VP prop still in the garage,
and that polished spinner must be worth 10 knots easy !!).
Maximum straight and level 5500 RPM (can't remember what the boiler pressure was)
145Knots.
Prop is warp drive set to 20.75 deg. On both days pressure was approx 1020 - 1023
and temp circa 4 deg at sea level.
And what surprised us most of all was after 2 hours flying with the climb performance
test, VNE, max continuous, stalls, 2 take offs, total fuel burn 30 litres
!!
The rudder was a git to fix with access almost impossible at the back of the engine.
We fitted a tinnerman washer to the top of the actuator to prevent the spring
jumping off in the future, and checked the geometry of the movement to insure
the engine bearer was missed. Slight tweak to the mechanism and all is well.
The right roll has got us scratching our heads a bit. We were not sure if this
was due to aileron deflection inducing the roll, or the slight aileron balance
protrusion under the right wing causing drag. After careful consideration we
decided to adjust slightly, the left aileron. If this has no effect we will look
at re-rigging the right aileron to drop it to raise the balance (only slight
adjustment required). Whatever the fix eventually is, it will be after minute
adjustments.
Assuming the rudder behaves (we have given it several fast taxi runs and violent
slow speed full deflection) and the roll is sorted, this only leaves the 2 hour
indurance test and the 11 outstanding landings to complete.
For all you good people still working throught the manual to complete the kit,
keep going - the satisfaction of the test pilot opening the door with a big grin,
thumbs up and the only comment after "fab chaps" was "I'll buy it !!" gives
you a pretty good feeling - I can thoroughly recommend it, and I havn't even
flown her yet.
I'll keep you posted
ATB
Tony.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr> |
Hello,
Yes I have one old style europa tailwheel complete with fork, tyre and
all.
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
-----Message d'origine-----
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Richard
Holder
Envoy : vendredi 7 janvier 2005 23:59
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: Europa-List: Old tailwheel
>
>
> Wanted advert posted on behalf of Richard (D18 owner):
>
> WANTED. Old style Europa tailwheel; have you a good wheel with tyre,
> axle and fork looking for a new home? If so please 'phone Richard on
> 01509 853902.
>
> Duncan McF.
OK - I contacted him at 10.40 pm and he is picking mine up tomorrow.
Another unused bit removed from the shelf in my garage !
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: YOUNG TSUNAMI VICTIM |
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Received-SPF: none
This message has been doing the rounds since his picture appeared in the newspapers
the day after the tsunami.
For everyone's information. The young boy in question, sho is Swedish, was reunited
with his uncle less than 48 hours after the tsunami. His mother however remains
missing.
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 01/08/05 |
>Cheers,
> Clear as my mind can be (at times) it has recently rebelled over a
>simple paradox involving vents. I plan a bellyside outlet for the
>suction-block bottle in the fuel vent department.
Ferg
If you have the XS fuel filler molding that is perfectly design as a
suction block. Vents straight back to the tank.
Graham
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Sementilli <rsementi(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: europa parts wanted |
I have all the components of the monowhel since I converted mine to a
conventional gear. Do you need any of those parts?
>
> hi all
> i am looking for europa parts for a rebuild of a crashed aircraft
> i have managed to save the top half of the fus and i have most componants
> for the cokpit module is there any one that has any parts the want to sell
> thanks
>
> Express yourself with cool new emoticons http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: europa parts wanted |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
I'm looking for part LGO2A Shock Absorber pin support.
Drawing: http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?t=1267
If anyone is going to part out the Mono assemble please let me know.
The part I have is ok, I'm just not happy with the cut outs I made, in spec but
ugly......
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "karelvranken" <karelvranken(at)hotmail.com> |
John,
You remember perhaps that we had some e-mail exchanges concerning the PFA
certification of your Trutrak installation? I received from you the drawings
and explanation but the PFA approval itself was missing. I also know that it
is linked to your aircraft but I am not a PFA member, nor I need their
approval for my Europa F-PKRL. The french administration asks for "an
approval" and then they will see if my construction conforms to it. They
even will check the correspondence I had thereabout.
So can you mail me the PFA document approving your installation?
In the attachment you can see some photographs of my installation. (taken in
september 2002)
The finnishing of F-PKRL was stopped in may last year because I had the
opportunity to build a hangar (30' x 40') for my hobby. Then we also were
busy with the OO-145 which you have seen in Kemble where we met in july.
Best wishes from Belgium.
Karel Vranken # 447 monowheel Airmaster 332
----- Original Message -----
From: <JohnDHeykoop(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilots
>
> In a message dated 08/01/05 18:05:53 GMT Standard Time,
naharrison(at)manx.net
> writes:
>
> > Can anyone tell me whether I need to
> > to get authorisation from the PFA to install the Trutrak
>
> Yes, you do need PFA approval. I got approval (mod # 10711) very quickly,
> probably because I presented it as a simple variant of the Europa club mod
for
> the Navaid. In other words, I said that I proposed to install the Tru Trak
as
> per the already approved mod for the Navaid, except for a few minor
differences,
> which I detailed in my application. My mod was for a new build and would
be
> difficult to install as a retrofit, but if you want to borrow from it I
can
> sent you details off forum.
>
> John Heykoop
> XS Mono #536 G-JHKP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDHeykoop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 10/01/05 10:45:58 GMT Standard Time,
karelvranken(at)hotmail.com writes:
> So can you mail me the PFA document approving your installation?
>
Karel
I am attaching the PFA letter approving my installation. I thought I had
emailed this already with all the other details, but I may be mistaken.
I have had a look at your pictures. The installation looks a neat one, and
the hangar looks great.
Regards
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
>I am attaching the PFA letter approving my installation
John - the list strips off attachments. You will need to send
attachments in a message addressed directly to the recipient.
regards
Rowland
--
| Wilma & Rowland Carson <http://home.clara.net/rowil/>
| ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Arthur Orchard, where are you? |
I received a request for access to the Europa Club website
members-only area from Arthur Orchard, who gave his e-mail address as
<avo(at)flyingcircus.fsworld.com>. From my records it appears he's not a
Club member (or even a builder yet, unless someone else knows
better), so I replied explaining the conditions for access to the
members-only area (ya gotta be a member). Unfortunately the message
bounced because the e-mail address was bad.
If Arthur (or anyone who knows him) is on this list, maybe he could
reply to this message, please?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (740 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Arthur Orchard, where are you? |
Hi Roland
I will give him a ring tomorrow and tell him. Bit late this pm.
Regards
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland
Carson
Subject: Europa-List: Arthur Orchard, where are you?
I received a request for access to the Europa Club website
members-only area from Arthur Orchard, who gave his e-mail address as
<avo(at)flyingcircus.fsworld.com>. From my records it appears he's not a
Club member (or even a builder yet, unless someone else knows
better), so I replied explaining the conditions for access to the
members-only area (ya gotta be a member). Unfortunately the message
bounced because the e-mail address was bad.
If Arthur (or anyone who knows him) is on this list, maybe he could
reply to this message, please?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (740 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> |
Paddy,
I have done as you suggested with 3/8" dia aluminum tubing to the bottom of the
fuselage transitioning to stainless steel, exiting adjacent to the flap bracket.
In addition to drilling a small hole in the back of the ss vent per the manual,
I have installed a small vapor check valve (from McMaster Carr) with a
tee to the vent line such that in the event of complete blockage of the vent the
check valve will open to relieve the vacuum that would otherwise be created.
Regards,
Erich Trombley
N28ET Classic Mono-914
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
Anyone feel like a DOTH this week? Thursday looks like the best day. Please let
me know,
Regards,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
Sorry William I am off to sunny Florida for three weeks flying in the
sun, but not before the latest batch of weather hits us here in the Isle
of Man. Last week we recorded 110mph winds and had almost all major
roads closed somewhere due to falling trees! This time we are taking no
chances with all schools and public buildings closed today in
anticipation of what's to come this afternoon and tonight. Perfect
preparation for Florida really:-)
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Mills
Subject: Europa-List: DOTH this week?
-->
Anyone feel like a DOTH this week? Thursday looks like the best day.
Please let me know, Regards, William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Simon Smith" <jodel(at)nildram.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Arthur Orchard, where are you? |
Change the .com to .co.uk and it might get through. Fsworld is one of the
domains for Freeserve.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson
Subject: Europa-List: Arthur Orchard, where are you?
I received a request for access to the Europa Club website
members-only area from Arthur Orchard, who gave his e-mail address as
<avo(at)flyingcircus.fsworld.com>. From my records it appears he's not a
Club member (or even a builder yet, unless someone else knows
better), so I replied explaining the conditions for access to the
members-only area (ya gotta be a member). Unfortunately the message
bounced because the e-mail address was bad.
If Arthur (or anyone who knows him) is on this list, maybe he could
reply to this message, please?
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (740 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | It's not easy when your stupid 2 |
Hi,
My first email on the topic of fuel vents returned a number of
variations on a theme. It might pay dividends to consider the system when
seated upside down in a field of corn.
Cheers, Ferg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: It's not easy when you're stupid 2 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: It's not easy when you're stupid 2
|
| < when| > seated upside down in a field of corn.>>
|
| Or on its (s'bd) side!|
| Duncan McF
Duncan,
Quite right! Although I was thinking of hanging there, wondering if
the hammer would get me out in time to turn around and extricate
Jenny.........
If it's on its starboard side, I wouldn't have as much fuss opening the door
[hopefully] and then J would just eject me out into the corn while (a)
climbing out and (b) putting out the fire.
If it's on its port side, well, ........... sauve qui peut.
F
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry Copeland" <garrett.copeland(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder deflection |
Can anyone tell me how much they had to cut back (forward?) the fin trailing
edge close out on the port side to allow the full rudder deflection?
It looks as if I will have to cut away more than 15 to 20 mm relative to the
starboard side to allow the rudder to swing to port.
Thanks in advance.
Garry Copeland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder deflection |
Garry Copeland wrote:
>
>Can anyone tell me how much they had to cut back (forward?) the fin trailing
>edge close out on the port side to allow the full rudder deflection?
>
>It looks as if I will have to cut away more than 15 to 20 mm relative to the
>starboard side to allow the rudder to swing to port.
>
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>Garry Copeland
>
>
>
>
Garry,
If memory serves correctly, I think I had to trim about 3/8". At any
rate, trim whatever is necessary to make the rudder right...
--
Jeff - A055
One more wing to prime, then it's off to the paint shop
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder deflection |
Just done mine was probably about 15mm
Regards Dave Park
XS 371
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Sementilli <rsementi(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: europa parts wanted |
I have monowheel parts, which part exactly do you want? What will you
offer to pay?
>
> I'm looking for part LGO2A Shock Absorber pin support.
> Drawing: http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?t=1267
> If anyone is going to part out the Mono assemble please let me know.
> The part I have is ok, I'm just not happy with the cut outs I made, in spec but
ugly......
>
> Steved
> ----------------
> Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Sementilli <rsementi(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old tailwheel |
I have all monowheel parts, what is your offer?
wrote:
>
> Wanted advert posted on behalf of Richard (D18 owner):
>
> WANTED. Old style Europa tailwheel; have you a good wheel with tyre, axle
> and fork looking for a new home? If so please 'phone Richard on 01509
> 853902.
>
> Duncan McF.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
I have just purchased the Skydrive Coolant Carburetter heater CH-912-3. I see
from the instructions that this requires PFA approval. Is there a standard PFA
mod number for this or do we have to apply individually @ =A345 a time+weeks
of paperwork.
Brian Davies kit 454 Mono XS
Painting just about finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Brian
I just bought it too. I checked with the PFA and they say it is a "standard
option" on the 912S and does not require "PFA modification action". I could
forward their email if you wish.
On the other hand I found that the heater wasn't ready to slide onto the
spigot in any sensible way so I have had to send the carbs and the heaters
to Skydrive to fit. It didn't feel right so I ducked it :-( I await their
return.
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
++++++++ Please note new email address ++++++++
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
>
> I have just purchased the Skydrive Coolant Carburetter heater CH-912-3. I see
> from the instructions that this requires PFA approval. Is there a standard PFA
> mod number for this or do we have to apply individually @ =A345 a time+weeks
> of paperwork.
>
> Brian Davies kit 454 Mono XS
>
> Painting just about finished.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Autopilot Advice |
Ok guys I am down to a choice of two. It's either the Trutrak or the E-Z
Pilot anybody have any plus or minus points about either ?
I want to ideally track GPS and VOR's (I have an Apollo 30 installed) if
that's possible with either unit.
All comments gratefully appreciated.
Many Thanks
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone got any better solution than the standard plastic pipes used
on the Trigear finger brakes. I am thinking of using copper is that the
best option or is there something better?
Many Thanks
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
Hi
I think the 'not fitting' is a standard feature! Mine required some
work with a file on the carbs to get them a little less of a square peg
and able to fit into the round hole. Another Europa owner on the field
had similar problems.
However, they do work well and its great not having to remember to turn
the thing on and off all the time.
Regards
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Holder
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax 912S Carb Heater
Brian
I just bought it too. I checked with the PFA and they say it is a
"standard option" on the 912S and does not require "PFA modification
action". I could forward their email if you wish.
On the other hand I found that the heater wasn't ready to slide onto the
spigot in any sensible way so I have had to send the carbs and the
heaters to Skydrive to fit. It didn't feel right so I ducked it :-( I
await their return.
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
++++++++ Please note new email address ++++++++
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
> -->
>
> I have just purchased the Skydrive Coolant Carburetter heater
> CH-912-3. I see from the instructions that this requires PFA
> approval. Is there a standard PFA mod number for this or do we have to
> apply individually @ =A345 a time+weeks of paperwork.
>
> Brian Davies kit 454 Mono XS
>
> Painting just about finished.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Davies" <bdavies(at)dircon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
Thanks for the tip Richard.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Holder" <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax 912S Carb Heater
>
> Brian
>
> I just bought it too. I checked with the PFA and they say it is a
"standard
> option" on the 912S and does not require "PFA modification action". I
could
> forward their email if you wish.
>
> On the other hand I found that the heater wasn't ready to slide onto the
> spigot in any sensible way so I have had to send the carbs and the heaters
> to Skydrive to fit. It didn't feel right so I ducked it :-( I await their
> return.
>
> Richard
> Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
> Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
> Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
> SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
> ++++++++ Please note new email address ++++++++
> Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
> PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
>
>
> >
> > I have just purchased the Skydrive Coolant Carburetter heater CH-912-3.
I see
> > from the instructions that this requires PFA approval. Is there a
standard PFA
> > mod number for this or do we have to apply individually @ =A345 a
time+weeks
> > of paperwork.
> >
> > Brian Davies kit 454 Mono XS
> >
> > Painting just about finished.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Advice |
Alan,
Do yourself a favor and ring Chuck Busch of Trio. He is a genuine fellow,
with a wealth of information. Every negative you can think of has been
considered and even simple things like the 2 second refresh rate of a
handheld GPS using a NMEA 0183? data stream, in a turn to a given flight
planned track or ground track course, has been software modified to negate
the inaccuracy. He has 25,000 lines of code, so suffice to say I don't
think there is anything he hasn't thought about. He certainly gives me that
impression from my meeting. Worth a phone call I reckon, and he will
explain to you everything you want to know. It took 10 e-mails with worthy
responses before I was convinced, and my gut feel rewarded upon my personal
collection of my componentry.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney
P.S. There are those that might choose to call the servo old technology
used by Trio. It is, but it isn't standard, and there is a very detailed
explanation of why it is better. It is way beyond my understanding, but if
you have the knowledge, Chuck has the explanation. The head of the
autopilot is streaks ahead, and the accuracy ontrack is consistently less
than .01 of a mile as I recall. His target tracking was +/- .1 of a mile,
but tests prove it 10 times better than initially targetted.
At 09:15 PM 1/12/2005, you wrote:
>
>Ok guys I am down to a choice of two. It's either the Trutrak or the E-Z
>Pilot anybody have any plus or minus points about either ?
>I want to ideally track GPS and VOR's (I have an Apollo 30 installed) if
>that's possible with either unit.
>All comments gratefully appreciated.
>Many Thanks
>
>Alan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
I was also thinking of fitting these heaters but was a little put off by
seeing one Europa which had overheated a little. This caused a pipe
feeding the heater to blow off a T piece and all the coolant to drain
out. The aircraft did fly for a while with no coolant but the engine
subsequently had to be replaced. Anyone else had or heard of any
problems with the coolant carb heaters?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Lawless
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Rotax 912S Carb Heater
Hi
I think the 'not fitting' is a standard feature! Mine required some
work with a file on the carbs to get them a little less of a square peg
and able to fit into the round hole. Another Europa owner on the field
had similar problems.
However, they do work well and its great not having to remember to turn
the thing on and off all the time.
Regards
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
I have used Copper- Nickel 90/10 seamless brake pipe throughout except for
the run from the reservoir to the master cylinder, Plastic is o/k for this.
If correctly supported and clipped it will outlast the airframe IMHO
It will take 3100 psi before rupture, so no contest as far as i am
concerned,
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
: "Alan Burrows" -->
>
> Has anyone got any better solution than the standard plastic pipes used
> on the Trigear finger brakes. I am thinking of using copper is that the
> best option or is there something better?
> Many Thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)striblingranch.com> |
| Subject: | Autopilot Advice |
I have been flying a RV-6 while building my XS and I can tell you that
when I get ready for the auto pilot in my plane it will have an altitude
hold on it. I would rather have the altitude hold rather than wings
level they change altitude fast especially if you are looking at scenery
and not paying attention on long trips.
Just my opinion.
Ken Stribling
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Burrows
Subject: Europa-List: Autopilot Advice
<alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Ok guys I am down to a choice of two. It's either the Trutrak or the E-Z
Pilot anybody have any plus or minus points about either ?
I want to ideally track GPS and VOR's (I have an Apollo 30 installed) if
that's possible with either unit.
All comments gratefully appreciated.
Many Thanks
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
> Has anyone got any better solution than the standard plastic pipes
used
> on the Trigear finger brakes. I am thinking of using copper is that
the
> best option or is there something better?
> Many Thanks
>
> Alan
On the trigear, I don't think you want to use copper, because it work
hardens, no? It will flex at the fuselage and down at the caliper,
plus during maintenance. I used 3003 aluminum, which is lighter
anyway and won't turn an ugly green where exposed to the elements.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Advice |
Hi Alan
Weve chatted about this quite a bit off list but for my money, the EZ pilot wins
every time (I must get round to starting off the PFA Mod process for fitting
ours).
Within a few quid, the EZ Piot and Truetrack units are the same price, neither
can be fitted under existing recognised mods so, all is equal so far but, look
at the features that the EZ pilot offers - I particularly like the 'get me out
of IMC' button - just press and hold for 3 seconds - Autopilot comes on, turns
you through 180 degrees (in a turn of programmable rate - potential navid owners
please note).
I've been in contact with the guys at Trio and to be honest, they couldn't be more
helpful. I'm want to interface the unit to a skyforce CM2000 - a somewhat
obscure colour GPS - Trio say I can send them the GPS and they'll try it or, I
can capture the data output and send them the file - the say that if they can
make it work, the will.
I have no idea how Navaids have kept the stronghold on the market with their valve
operated unit (well almost!) - its time for a change!
I assume where you are is still covered by the PFA? Im looking to fit one of these,
someone else on the list has contacted me about doing the same could we
work collectively (or better still, could the europa club take on the unit under
their existing / a new mod?) there is no doubt that the unit looks to be
the most modern, feature packed offering in the price bracket.
I mooted the idea if Europa supplying it as a factory mod with all the requsite
hardware to Andy Draper yesterday - he sounded quite enthusiastic about the idea
- maybe some pressure there may be of use.
-----------------------------------------
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Field" <Peter.Field(at)hgfield.co.uk> |
Alan,
We discarded the black plastic tube and substituted it with steel
braided pipe as used in the performance automotive world. It does
require you to change all the fittings but is a very elegant solution to
the problem as it offers both strength and flexibility. The supplier we
used can be contacted on WWW.thinkauto.com
Peter Field
________________________________________________________________________________
Regardless of the material you choose be certain that you use seamless
tubing.
There are three manufacturing methods used to make hollow shapes. The cheap
way is to form a tube from sheet stock and weld the seam (yuk!), a better
way is to extrude over a spider die which still has seams at the
microstructural level, and the right way for pressure applications is to
extrude the metal over a mandrel that is punched through the billet creating
a monolithic tube with no seam. Extruded tube is cold drawn to final size.
I used brass inside the fuselage and stainless steel on the exterior.
McMaster-Carr was my source:
Brass Tubing .085" ID, 1/8" OD, .020" Wall, 6' Length, P/N 8950K51
Type 316 Stainless Steel Seamless Tubing 1/8" OD, .085" ID, .02" Wall, P/N
89785K811
There were times while attempting to get the bends oriented correctly that I
doubted the wisdom of using rigid metallic tube rather than the factory
supplied, very flexible, easy to install plastic. Each time I questioned my
choice I remembered how my Lotus caught fire when the plastic hydraulic
clutch line ruptured and dumped brake fluid on the exhaust pipe, and my
doubts went away.
Buy extra lengths of tubing because unless you are an expert at tube bending
you will make mistakes.
...and Fred F. is correct that brass will work harden, but so does aluminum
and stainless steel. I doubt that there can be sufficient flexure to cause
a metallic brake line to fail (if the gear legs flex enough to fracture the
brake lines you've got worse problems to worry about).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan Burrows
Subject: Europa-List: Brake Pipes
<alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
Has anyone got any better solution than the standard plastic pipes used
on the Trigear finger brakes. I am thinking of using copper is that the
best option or is there something better?
Many Thanks
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Advice |
> I particularly like the 'get me out of IMC' button - just press and
> hold for 3 seconds - Autopilot comes on, turns you through 180
degrees....
I don't wish to start a debate over the concept of....if you need an
autopilot to 180 out of IMC...and arguable wisdom of periodic dual
instruction in that regard. :-)
IMO, the issue is how well the thing will do the job in turbulence, as
an instrument-rated pilot knows any +/- excursions from what you want
it to do don't mean anything. There's conditions where turning the
aircraft as per ATC or the approach plate is easier to do manually,
since there's simply less thinking to do in the instrument scan. But
for a VFR-only pilot, those excursions might be disconcerting, the
first of a chain of events potentially leading to a "problem."
With such a feature, I think it would be good to thoroughly and
periodically test it in turbulence, to get used to what the panel
instruments will be doing, so as to better monitor how well the
autopilot is bailing you out. Just like an IR pilot would do, with
that box optionally doing what the subconscious brain has been trained
to do.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Autopilot Advice |
I whole heartily agree with that. As an IMC rated pilot(not full
instrument rated) I am able to fly in IMC conditions with relative ease,
when hand flying, trying to stay ahead of where I am going, dealing with
ATC and then studying the approach plates add to that a bit of good old
fashioned turbulence and you can image things get a little busy. For me
the purpose of an autopilot is to ease the workload and free up some
space in my limited brain capacity, thus making the whole process less
stressful, so the 180 option, whilst not particularly important to me,
could potentially be dangerous if it leads a VFR pilot to be over
confident where IMC conditions prevail. There is no electronic or
mechanical substitute for actually getting practice in IMC conditions
with a suitably qualified person on board of course.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Fillinger
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilot Advice
> I particularly like the 'get me out of IMC' button - just press and
> hold for 3 seconds - Autopilot comes on, turns you through 180
degrees....
I don't wish to start a debate over the concept of....if you need an
autopilot to 180 out of IMC...and arguable wisdom of periodic dual
instruction in that regard. :-)
IMO, the issue is how well the thing will do the job in turbulence, as
an instrument-rated pilot knows any +/- excursions from what you want it
to do don't mean anything. There's conditions where turning the
aircraft as per ATC or the approach plate is easier to do manually,
since there's simply less thinking to do in the instrument scan. But
for a VFR-only pilot, those excursions might be disconcerting, the first
of a chain of events potentially leading to a "problem."
With such a feature, I think it would be good to thoroughly and
periodically test it in turbulence, to get used to what the panel
instruments will be doing, so as to better monitor how well the
autopilot is bailing you out. Just like an IR pilot would do, with that
box optionally doing what the subconscious brain has been trained to do.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
>Has anyone got any better solution than the standard plastic pipes used
>on the Trigear finger brakes. I am thinking of using copper is that the
>best option or is there something better?
Alan - I'd be wary of using copper in any situation of potential
vibration or flexing, because of its tendency to work-harden and then
fracture. I'm guessing that the racing car people will have
solutions, probably in aluminium - but I have no specific knowledge
to offer, sorry!
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 740 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Received-SPF: none
Is the 914 wastegate closed when the wastegaste actuating arm on the front of the
turbo is to starboard (ie vertical) or to port?
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
| Subject: | Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S |
Just a word of caution if you are not already past this stage:
The Rotax 912S installation manual states a torque range for the M8 nuts that hold
the exhaust pipes in place against the cylinder heads.
When you torque the nuts, you will notice that the flanges (the ones held in place
by the bolts and nuts, not the bevelled flanges welded to the pipes) begin
to bend before you reach the lower limit of the torque stated by Rotax.
Do not apply more torque! The flanges (and the rest of the exhaust system) are
NOT Rotax parts, and evidently don't take the Rotax stated torque without bending.
I checked this with Andy today: It is difficult to explain why Rotax keep stating
the torque when the nuts are check-nuts and therefore do not require a minimum
torque to stay put. The nuts should, according to Andy, only be torqued
to give a tight connection, to avoid exhaust leaks. There is no proven need to
torque more, the system will stay in place even though this connection to the
cylinder heads is the only place where the entire exhaust system is anchored
to the engine.
Andy will place a note about this in the next Tech Talk column in the Europa Flyer,
and in the f.w. forward manual at next revision.
Make a note yourself, already now!
Regards,
Svein
A225 XS Trigear - now in Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
> I was also thinking of fitting these heaters but was a little put off by
> seeing one Europa which had overheated a little. This caused a pipe
> feeding the heater to blow off a T piece and all the coolant to drain
> out. The aircraft did fly for a while with no coolant but the engine
> subsequently had to be replaced. Anyone else had or heard of any
> problems with the coolant carb heaters?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
To be fair this doesn't sound like a problem with the carb heater but with
the installation of the same. There are a total of 10 additional jubilee
clips to be used, and they have all got to be tight !
SkyDrive turned round my heater to carb fitment this morning and the cost
was less than the postage there and back !
So I recommend that if you have any doubt you get SkyDrive to do it.
Actually I should have driven it up to Southam and I expect they would have
done it while I waited. It would have cost less in fuel than the postage !
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
< clips to be used, and they have all got to be tight !>>
Its not just the tightness, but also the absence of any sensible barb or
joggle on the end of some of the pipe fittings in the kit!
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Holder" <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax 912S Carb Heater
>
> > I was also thinking of fitting these heaters but was a little put off by
> > seeing one Europa which had overheated a little. This caused a pipe
> > feeding the heater to blow off a T piece and all the coolant to drain
> > out. The aircraft did fly for a while with no coolant but the engine
> > subsequently had to be replaced. Anyone else had or heard of any
> > problems with the coolant carb heaters?
> >
> > Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
> To be fair this doesn't sound like a problem with the carb heater but with
> the installation of the same. There are a total of 10 additional jubilee
> clips to be used, and they have all got to be tight !
>
> SkyDrive turned round my heater to carb fitment this morning and the cost
> was less than the postage there and back !
>
> So I recommend that if you have any doubt you get SkyDrive to do it.
>
> Actually I should have driven it up to Southam and I expect they would
have
> done it while I waited. It would have cost less in fuel than the postage !
>
> Richard
> Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
> Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
> Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
> SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
> Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
> PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Carb Heater |
Richard,
The early Tee pieces had no ridges to grip the pipe, but this was
subsequently changed for a correct fitting. Perhaps Darry's was the early
version and was never changed. My carb heater has worked successfully for
about 650 hours now and I certainly would not be without it.
Regards,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Rotax 912S Carb Heater
>
> I was also thinking of fitting these heaters but was a little put off by
> seeing one Europa which had overheated a little. This caused a pipe
> feeding the heater to blow off a T piece and all the coolant to drain
> out. The aircraft did fly for a while with no coolant but the engine
> subsequently had to be replaced. Anyone else had or heard of any
> problems with the coolant carb heaters?
>
> Richard Iddon G-RIXS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
> Lawless
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Rotax 912S Carb Heater
>
>
> Hi
>
> I think the 'not fitting' is a standard feature! Mine required some
> work with a file on the carbs to get them a little less of a square peg
> and able to fit into the round hole. Another Europa owner on the field
> had similar problems.
>
> However, they do work well and its great not having to remember to turn
> the thing on and off all the time.
>
> Regards
>
> Pete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder deflection |
Garrett,
Don't think it was 20mm but in the ballpark. Do as the others say
and don't forget some space for paint.
Good Luck
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry Copeland" <garrett.copeland(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Rudder deflection
|
| Can anyone tell me how much they had to cut back (forward?) the fin
trailing
| edge close out on the port side to allow the full rudder deflection?
|
| It looks as if I will have to cut away more than 15 to 20 mm relative to
the
| starboard side to allow the rudder to swing to port.
|
|
| Thanks in advance.
|
|
| Garry Copeland
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Squeezing solid rivets |
Is there a way to squeeze these rivets without buying a rivet squeezer?
A bench vice, perhaps? A rivet squeezer runs for about $130 which seems
hardly worth it considering the small number of rivets, and I don't
know anyone who owns one of these to borrow from. Having gotten used to
the pop rivets, I was surprised to find these rivets in the kit. Any
advice is appreciated.
=====
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S |
>When you torque the nuts, you will notice that the flanges (the ones
held in place by the bolts and nuts, not the bevelled flanges welded to
the pipes) begin to bend before you reach the lower limit of the torque
stated by Rotax. Do not apply more torque! The flanges (and the rest of
the exhaust system) are NOT Rotax parts, and evidently don't take the
Rotax stated torque without bending.
I checked this with Andy today: It is difficult to explain why Rotax
keep stating the torque when the nuts are check-nuts and therefore do
not require a minimum torque to stay put. The nuts should, according to
Andy, only be torqued to give a tight connection, to avoid exhaust
leaks. There is no proven need to torque more, the system will stay in
place even though this connection to the cylinder heads is the only
place where the entire exhaust system is anchored to the engine.
Andy will place a note about this in the next Tech Talk column in the
Europa Flyer, and in the f.w. forward manual at next revision.<
Although it seems unlikely the nuts can work loose. In the first year I
had one manifold (the front stbd) come loose enough to allow sooting of
the head due to gases escaping. It needed about 3 turns of the nut
before it even touched the flange. I know that I am not the only case
and have checked the nuts regularly since. The latest nuts are slightly
different (copper coloured for identification purposes) so might stay
put better. One thought is, if there is enough thread available, lock
the nut with an extra half nut.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nigel charles" <nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Squeezing solid rivets |
>Is there a way to squeeze these rivets without buying a rivet squeezer?
A bench vice, perhaps? A rivet squeezer runs for about $130 which seems
hardly worth it considering the small number of rivets, and I don't know
anyone who owns one of these to borrow from. Having gotten used to the
pop rivets, I was surprised to find these rivets in the kit. Any advice
is appreciated.<
I found that I got good results using the following technique:
Use an appropriate sized drill to drill a shallow hollow in the top of a
flat area on your bench vice.
Place the assembly head down so that the rivet head is supported in the
hollow.
Carefully hammer the rivet until the desired grip is achieved.
Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Squeezing solid rivets |
Hi! Andrew.
It is accepted practice to use a small hammer and a hollowed head anvil
giving back support. They need to be hit flat and expanded to a specific
diameter which stops well short of them beginning to split. I suggest
you do one or two as a learning curve exercise. When on your work piece
I suggest doing them diametrically opposite when working on tubing and
probably get a number partially started to ensure complete alignment
prior to final riveting into place. If you are working on the torque
tubes under the cockpit module be sure to arrange the radial
displacement of all the rivets so to not have any at "clock positions"
12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.
Otherwise you may get into "collision mode" with the torque tubes and
the internal aileron tubes on maximum travel positions.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Sarangan
Subject: Europa-List: Squeezing solid rivets
Is there a way to squeeze these rivets without buying a rivet squeezer?
A bench vice, perhaps? A rivet squeezer runs for about $130 which seems
hardly worth it considering the small number of rivets, and I don't
know anyone who owns one of these to borrow from. Having gotten used to
the pop rivets, I was surprised to find these rivets in the kit. Any
advice is appreciated.
=====
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 01/12/05 |
>Has anyone got any better solution than the standard plastic pipes used
>on the Trigear finger brakes. I am thinking of using copper is that the
>best option or is there something better?
>Many Thanks
>
>Alan
Alan
don't think I'd recommend copper, or copper alloy. They tend to fatigue and
break with vibration. I still prefer the hard nylon. Incidentally it is
possible to use AN fittings and flared joints with nylon. Just warm it a
little, (don't melt it)
The other alternative would be stainless braided teflon, as supplied for
motor bikes and race cars. That's probably the best.
Graham
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S |
>Although it seems unlikely the nuts can work loose. In the first year I
>had one manifold (the front stbd) come loose enough to allow sooting of
>the head due to gases escaping. I know that I am not the only case
>and have checked the nuts regularly since. One thought is, if there is
>enough thread available, lock
>the nut with an extra half nut.
>
>Nigel Charles
Nigel
I have heard of several cases like this, particularly in the early days.
Maybe related to the old exhaust manufacturer.
Kim Prout sorted the problem with some special locking nuts onto studs. (I
don't nave the details) The nuts have a locking tab held in place with a
circlip. He bought them local to Ontario in the LA area.
I wish Kim contributed to this list, he has a lot of useful experience to
share .
Graham
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 01/12/05 |
As an aside, can anyone tell me where I can buy new olives for the
fittings on the hard nylon brake pipe? Europa can only supply them as
part of a complete fitting.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Singleton
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 01/12/05
>Has anyone got any better solution than the standard plastic pipes used
>on the Trigear finger brakes. I am thinking of using copper is that the
>best option or is there something better?
>Many Thanks
>
>Alan
Alan
don't think I'd recommend copper, or copper alloy. They tend to fatigue
and
break with vibration. I still prefer the hard nylon. Incidentally it is
possible to use AN fittings and flared joints with nylon. Just warm it a
little, (don't melt it)
The other alternative would be stainless braided teflon, as supplied for
motor bikes and race cars. That's probably the best.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S |
Funny, I had sooting in the exact same place. I thought that the exhaust
just didn't fit very well into the silencer so I lapped it in a bit with
grinding paste. Seems to have stopped sooting now.
I will also check the tightness of the nuts.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Singleton
Subject: Europa-List: Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S
>Although it seems unlikely the nuts can work loose. In the first year I
>had one manifold (the front stbd) come loose enough to allow sooting of
>the head due to gases escaping. I know that I am not the only case
>and have checked the nuts regularly since. One thought is, if there is
>enough thread available, lock
>the nut with an extra half nut.
>
>Nigel Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
Hello Andrew
I tried to use a vise to squeeze the aileron cam rivets. Some have used a
punch, hammer and anvil. I did not like the results of the vise method. In the
end I wound up buying new cam and bearing parts from Europa AND the $130.00
rivet squeezer from Spruce and starting over.
As I remember the updated manual states that there is a type of pop rivet
that is acceptable for this application.
All the manual updates are on the Europa Owners site. Perhaps you can find
the fastener number there and order from Spruce.
Anyone know the fastener number for these pop rivets?
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
> Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
> Is there a way to squeeze these rivets without
> buying a rivet squeezer?
I just substituted the softer AN rivets, because I couldn't see where
the control forces demand the hard rivet. The enables use of a air
chisel from like Harbor Freight Tools, maybe $15, using lower pressure
regulated air. Bought the dimpled round-head rivet tool on a trip to
Oshkosh for a couple $$, or you could file & grind one up from the set
of chisels that comes with it. One good thing about cheap tools is
the steel can be rather soft. Just in case I'm wrong on strength
needed, especially where there's only 2 of them at a rod end, I
assembled them with the green structural glue.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
Wow! Thanks for that pointer. I checked the manual updates in
europaowners.org, and found that it does mention a substitute pop
rivet. Great. But I am worried now how many such updates I may have
missed. Shouldn't Europa be distributing these updates to all builders?
I am wondering how Steve got these updates in the first place.
--- EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello Andrew
> I tried to use a vise to squeeze the aileron cam rivets. Some have
> used a
> punch, hammer and anvil. I did not like the results of the vise
> method. In the
> end I wound up buying new cam and bearing parts from Europa AND the
> $130.00
> rivet squeezer from Spruce and starting over.
>
> As I remember the updated manual states that there is a type of pop
> rivet
> that is acceptable for this application.
>
> All the manual updates are on the Europa Owners site. Perhaps you can
> find
> the fastener number there and order from Spruce.
>
> Anyone know the fastener number for these pop rivets?
>
>
> Brian Skelly
> Texas
> Europa # A276 TriGear
> See My build photos at:
> http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
Fred,
I guess the strength relates to the PFA requirement that if
anything jams the aileron or other control surface you should not be able to
break the control run with any force you could realistically apply to the
stick.
I found it worked well for me to do initial squeezing in a large
vice and then finish off with a hammer and a concave mini anvil on the other
end. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Squeezing solid rivets
>
> I just substituted the softer AN rivets, because I couldn't see where
> the control forces demand the hard rivet. The enables use of a air
> chisel from like Harbor Freight Tools, maybe $15, using lower pressure
> regulated air. Bought the dimpled round-head rivet tool on a trip to
> Oshkosh for a couple $$, or you could file & grind one up from the set
> of chisels that comes with it. One good thing about cheap tools is
> the steel can be rather soft. Just in case I'm wrong on strength
> needed, especially where there's only 2 of them at a rod end, I
> assembled them with the green structural glue.
>
> Reg,
> Fred F.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
> Fred,
> I guess the strength relates to the PFA requirement that
if
> anything jams the aileron or other control surface you should not be
able to
> break the control run with any force you could realistically apply
to the
> stick.
> I found it worked well for me to do initial squeezing in a
large
> vice and then finish off with a hammer and a concave mini anvil on
the other
> end. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
Can't quibble with that at all, but it's also true that on a rod end,
the force on the rivet is all shear, no tension. So how "1-1/2 times
D" pretty the shop head comes out shouldn't matter, as long as she
can't....fall out!
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Willyoso" <willyoso(at)quixnet.net> |
| Subject: | Tri Gear Conversion |
Hello All,
I am new to this list and would like to correspond with any who have converted
the mono wheel to tri-gear to qualify under the new Sport Pilot rules. Would
also be interested in any that have used the motor glider classification to overcome
being "medically challenged" If you wish to respond off-list I can be
reached at willyoso(at)quixnet.net
Thanks, Willy Wilcken Mesa, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry Copeland" <garrett.copeland(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder deflection |
Dave, Jeff, Ferg,
Thanks for the advice.
I am creeping up on it 2mm at a time. Not quite there yet, but I'd rather
have a few bites at getting the gap right than having a bigger than
necessary gap.
I have belatedly learned the 'measure thrice, cut once' lesson.
Garry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "simon miles" <simon.miles(at)skynet.be> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Advice |
For me, the real advantage of the autopilot with it's own gyro is that when
the donkey stops I can rely on it to keep me the right way up without
exercising my 'needle and ball' skills (hah!) while descending through cloud
with no vacuum instruments - should I find myself in that situation. In such
stressful circumstances that facility would be a godsend...
Simon Miles,
Builder #508
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilot Advice
>
>
>> I particularly like the 'get me out of IMC' button - just press and
>> hold for 3 seconds - Autopilot comes on, turns you through 180
> degrees....
>
> I don't wish to start a debate over the concept of....if you need an
> autopilot to 180 out of IMC...and arguable wisdom of periodic dual
> instruction in that regard. :-)
>
> IMO, the issue is how well the thing will do the job in turbulence, as
> an instrument-rated pilot knows any +/- excursions from what you want
> it to do don't mean anything. There's conditions where turning the
> aircraft as per ATC or the approach plate is easier to do manually,
> since there's simply less thinking to do in the instrument scan. But
> for a VFR-only pilot, those excursions might be disconcerting, the
> first of a chain of events potentially leading to a "problem."
>
> With such a feature, I think it would be good to thoroughly and
> periodically test it in turbulence, to get used to what the panel
> instruments will be doing, so as to better monitor how well the
> autopilot is bailing you out. Just like an IR pilot would do, with
> that box optionally doing what the subconscious brain has been trained
> to do.
>
> Reg,
> Fred F.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer(at)cox.net> |
The diagram in my manual shows a phenolic pad on the face of the CS15 quick connect
bellcrank for the ailerons. However nowhere can I find in my manual any
instructions for attaching this pad or even a part number. I have found a piece
of Tufnol, part number euro8 that is 83mm x 75mm x 1mm thick. This seems
like the pad. Is this indeed the pad and should I attach it to the CS15 with
a bit of Araldite.
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
A101 Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S |
> The latest nuts are slightly
> different (copper coloured for identification purposes) so might stay
> put better. One thought is, if there is enough thread available, lock
> the nut with an extra half nut.
>
> Nigel Charles
>
>
Hello, Nigel,
Thank you very much for the feedback. This point certainly needs to be
checked regularly.
I actually have the copper coloured nuts, which have a self-locking feature
that is simple to "re-condition" if it has worked loose during a few "on and
offs" of the nuts:
Just press the nut (or knock it with a hammer) to close the gap cut at the
small diameter end (those having these nuts will immediately understand what
I mean!).
On my installation, there are unfortunately not enough threads for an extra
nut. What I did, though, was to give the flanges a small negative pre-bend,
so that I could tighten the nuts a little more when bending the flanges back
to flat.
I find it odd that these flanges are made so soft - cannot see any reason
why the part around the fat part of the pipe is not made wider, it would not
have intereferred with anything.
There is an interesting feature, however, on the flange welded to the pipe
end, onto which the loose flange in focus presses: The contact surface of
that other flange is slightly bevelled, which (I think) ensures positive
contact all around even when the loose flange bends some. As any pressure
on the loose flange by the nuts being tightened will, by definition,
introduce bend in the flange, perhaps this the clever way that the
manufactur has solved this issue.
I have also followed Rotax' recommendation to prevent vibration of the
springs between down pipes and muffler by locking wires between the springs,
around the half-circumference each side of the pipes.
Regards,
Svein
A225 XS Trigear - now in Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi! David.
Looks like you have the right perception of the use for the 1mm thick
tufnol, except you may need it to be slightly thicker to take up
operational slack in the connection. If that's the case then you will
need two layers of the tufnol and then sand it back to the right
thickness. Similarly you may need to cut back even the single thickness
to achieve close coupling without stress or backlash. Use the green
redux mixed thinly with flox to bond it to the connectors but be sure to
make it flat with a straight edge when bonding. (always presuming that
you have enough!)
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Simenauer
Subject: Europa-List: Pads for CS15
The diagram in my manual shows a phenolic pad on the face of the CS15
quick connect bellcrank for the ailerons. However nowhere can I find in
my manual any instructions for attaching this pad or even a part number.
I have found a piece of Tufnol, part number euro8 that is 83mm x 75mm x
1mm thick. This seems like the pad. Is this indeed the pad and should
I attach it to the CS15 with a bit of Araldite.
Thanks,
Dave Simenauer
A101 Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RK Hallett III <n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
Andrew,
If it is an option, you could check with your local EAA chapter. They
frequently have tools to loan.
Just a thought.
Ralph
RK Hallett III
MG
Reno,NV
Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
>
>Is there a way to squeeze these rivets without buying a rivet squeezer?
>A bench vice, perhaps? A rivet squeezer runs for about $130 which seems
>hardly worth it considering the small number of rivets, and I don't
>know anyone who owns one of these to borrow from. Having gotten used to
>the pop rivets, I was surprised to find these rivets in the kit. Any
>advice is appreciated.
>
>
>=====
>Andrew Sarangan
>http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
TRY USING A RIVET SET, AVAIL. THRU MC MASTER CARR
SAM N77EU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pads for CS15 |
Dave,
I can't recall the correct bit of tufnol, but I'd like to share with you how
I went about it. I put the wings on and then got a block of tufnol and
slowly reduced its thickness until it was a snug fit between the spar and
the CS15 bracket. I then removed the wings, roughed up the aluminum and
bonded it in with redux. Now when I install the wings they are held
precisely at the right height for the spar pins.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Simenauer" <dsimenauer(at)cox.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Pads for CS15
>
> The diagram in my manual shows a phenolic pad on the face of the CS15
quick connect bellcrank for the ailerons. However nowhere can I find in my
manual any instructions for attaching this pad or even a part number. I
have found a piece of Tufnol, part number euro8 that is 83mm x 75mm x 1mm
thick. This seems like the pad. Is this indeed the pad and should I attach
it to the CS15 with a bit of Araldite.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Simenauer
>
> A101 Trigear
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Pads for CS15 |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Hi Dave,
Just finished this job last week. My starboard connection had a large gap and the
port a small gap. First I tried having the ailerons in neutral, moving the
stick until the bottom of CS15 just touched W16, measured the gap, cut the measurement
in half, and made a shim. For reasons known only to Stephen Hawking,
this did not work in our universe.
I then used 3/4 inch wide shims, slid them in between CS15 and W16, until the contact
with full deflection in both directions was perfect. Pulled the shim pack
out, CS15 out, and put calipers to them. I then made three small "buttons"
of the correct size shim, (shim thickness - phenolic pad) buttered the CS15 with
redux and flox, pushed the "buttons" in the mix, dropped the phenolic pad on,
clamped them with C clamps, and cleaned the ooze away. Then I checked the thickness
and evenness with the calipers again and left to setup.
I'm very happy with the results, ailerons move like silk with direct contact the
whole way.
When you take your measurements, make sure you have all your pins in place. It
makes a difference.
Chat Later
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
Dave,
The pad you have identified is correct but you will have to split it
into two 83mm X 38mm pieces so that you have a piece for each quick
connect mechanism.
You must use Redux (Araldite 420) to bond them to the angle pieces after
scuffing the mating surfaces. Don't use 5 min Araldite.
A most important part of doing this job is to first ensure that the two
bolts on which the quick connects pivot on the wing spars, line up
PERFECTLY with those on the aluminium brackets. Check this by making up
a neat fitting sleeve of appropriate length to slide from one bolt to
the other when the wings are rigged. Access is possible with long nosed
pliers through the gap along the top of the wing at this stage adjacent
to the spar. The spacer used on the bolt of one spar adjacent to the
rigging cup is a suitable sleeve.
If the alignment is not correct, enlarge the hole in the spar slightly
to give the bolt in the spar a bit of free movement. Once you are able
to slide the sleeve from one bolt to the other with no force, remove the
wing in question and repot the bolt in the spar with some redux. Put
the wing back on and with the sleeve half way over both bolts to
maintain alignment and ensuring the wing spar bolt is fully home, allow
the redux to cure. (preferably overnight).
Now that you have achieved perfect alignment of the bolts, the rest is
easy. The shims can be bonded on their angle pieces away from the
aircraft.
Using the longest AN4 bolt you have, make up the quick connect assembly
on this one bolt. You will then see the gap between the two surfaces
which has to be filled with the piece of tufnol you originally asked
about. You will find this gap is slightly wider than the tufnol and the
difference is made up with a Redux (Araldite 420) and Flox mixture. By
holding the bolt in a vice, this bonding procedure can be done easily
with this set-up. When I did it, I ensured that the angle piece onto
which the tufnol is being bonded, was the upper piece (all oriented
horizontally) so that gravity helped to hold the tufnol against the
other angle piece underneath. To further ensure there will be no
residual gap, place a small piece of sponge rubber in the middle of the
bonding area (never to be seen again) and this will expand pushing the
tufnol firmly against the other mating piece while the redux cures.
When you rig the wings again, you will have perfectly matching quick
connects but ensure you get the pivot bolts aligned perfectly first,
this is imperative.
Hope this all makes sense and sorry it is so long. . . . seems to be a
problem I have !
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>As an aside, can anyone tell me where I can buy new olives for the
>fittings on the hard nylon brake pipe? Europa can only supply them as
>part of a complete fitting.
>
>Richard Iddon G-RIXS
Richard
try a local compressed air/hydraulic supplier. We have Linings & Hoses here
but their range is limited.
Graham
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
Anyone flying with the Dynon EFIS in UK?
I'm very tempted to use it in my initial fit and would value any feedback.
Thanks
Mike
XS Mono
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tri Gear Conversion |
> I am new to this list and would like to correspond with
> any who have converted the mono wheel to tri-gear to
> qualify under the new Sport Pilot rules.
>
> Thanks, Willy Wilcken Mesa, AZ
>
For the Europa, the main problem could be how FAA is going to enforce
the 120-knot limit, unless you go with 80HP. Without enforcement,
there will be much cheating on existing experimentals and future 51%
experimental builds. I think they saw this coming, as they originally
said no ground-adjustable propeller. The final rule backed off on
that for unrelated reasons I suspect, so time will soon tell how they
will verify top speed. Merely having your prop bolts sealed by a
member of the clergy won't be enough. :-)
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tri Gear Conversion |
| From: | "Al Stills" <astills(at)senecawholesale.com> |
Willey,
I've converted a monowheel to trigear but not for the sport pilot classification.
Your welcome
to contact me off list at astills(at)cox.net. I reside in Glendale, AZ
Al Stills
N625AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
Sam
Can you tell me how the rivet setter from McMaster Carr works? The tool
is inexpensive ($18), but the description on their website are unclear.
I called the company and they didn't couldn't help me. This is what the
website says about the tool:
Set solid and tinners' rivets with this tool and your hammer. With the
rivet in the setter hole, strike setter to draw sheet metal around the
rivet. Then strike rivet directly to flatten shank. Place the setter's
concave recess over the shank and strike setter again. This forms the
domed head.
You can draw rivets directly through thin metal without
prepunching a hole. Thin metal slugs drop out of the outlet hole on the
side of the tool.
--- SPurpura(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> TRY USING A RIVET SET, AVAIL. THRU MC MASTER CARR
> SAM N77EU
>
>
>
=====
Andrew Sarangan
http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
Andrew,
The traditional way of setting rivets used these type of tools and it is the
way that I set the rivets on my aircraft.
The idea is that the setter hole takes the rivet shank and tapping the
plates to be riveted with a suitable backing tool on the head of the rivet
ensures that the plates are snug against the head of the rivet.
Maintaining a suitable tool on the head of the rivet - bucking bar or flat
punch for a flat head (countersunk) rivet or a domed tool for a pan head
rivet. The rivet is first 'thickened' by striking with a hammer or hammer
and punch if access is tight. Finally, if a round/dome head finish is
required use the concave recess on the rivet setter (with hammer) to form
the rivet head.
With the McMaster Carr tool. The easy way is to put the tool vertically in
a vice, position the rivets in the bearing/bellcrank assembly, then hold the
rivet head in the concave recess and form with a hammer on the upper side.
Ensure that the rivets are a good fit in concave recess in the tool and the
overall rivet shank length is fairly critical for a good finish.
Two pairs of hands are useful.
Hope you understand my poor explanation.
regards,
Mike Parkin (G-JULZ)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Sarangan" <asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Squeezing solid rivets
>
> Sam
>
> Can you tell me how the rivet setter from McMaster Carr works? The tool
> is inexpensive ($18), but the description on their website are unclear.
> I called the company and they didn't couldn't help me. This is what the
> website says about the tool:
>
> Set solid and tinners' rivets with this tool and your hammer. With the
> rivet in the setter hole, strike setter to draw sheet metal around the
> rivet. Then strike rivet directly to flatten shank. Place the setter's
> concave recess over the shank and strike setter again. This forms the
> domed head.
> You can draw rivets directly through thin metal without
> prepunching a hole. Thin metal slugs drop out of the outlet hole on the
> side of the tool.
>
>
> --- SPurpura(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> TRY USING A RIVET SET, AVAIL. THRU MC MASTER CARR
>> SAM N77EU
>>
>>
>>
>
> =====
> Andrew Sarangan
> http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <Ted_Gladstone(at)COMPUSERVE.COM> |
| Subject: | Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S |
Message text written by INTERNET:europa-list(at)matronics.com
>. One thought is, if there is enough thread available, lock
the nut with an extra half nut.
<
Remember that the correct way to use the half nut as a locknut is to put
the half nut on first - then the full nut - tighten them both up to
required torque and then, holding the full nut from turning, back off the
half nut to lock it against the full nut. I've even seen professional
engineers put them on the wrong way round !!
The same method is used even if you are using two full nuts.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 01/12/05 |
Richard Iddon wrote:
>
>As an aside, can anyone tell me where I can buy new olives for the
>fittings on the hard nylon brake pipe? Europa can only supply them as
>part of a complete fitting.
>
>
>
>
Richard, if you talking about the ferrell that fits under the cap, they
can be had at ACS. They include the cap for only a few pennies, each...
--
Jeff A055
Ready for paint.
Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing solid rivets |
In a message dated 1/14/2005 1:15:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM writes:
You can draw rivets directly through thin metal without
prepunching a hole. Thin metal slugs drop out of the outlet hole on the
side of the tool.
USE AS DESCRIBED IN THE FULL TEXT EXEPT IGNORE (You can draw rivets directly
through thin metal without
prepunching a hole. Thin metal slugs drop out of the outlet hole on the
side of the tool.), AS THIS IS NOT SUITABLE.ONCE YOU SEE THE TOOL ITS USE IS
OBVIOUS.
SAM N77EU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Growzone" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust pipe flanges - 912S |
> Remember that the correct way to use the half nut as a locknut is to put
> the half nut on first - then the full nut - tighten them both up to
> required torque and then, holding the full nut from turning, back off the
> half nut to lock it against the full nut. I've even seen
> professional
> engineers put them on the wrong way round !!
>
> The same method is used even if you are using two full nuts.
Ted,
Would really appreciate an explanation of the reasoning behind this please.
An intellectually handicapped mind would like to know !
With the half nut on first, I can see that the load on its threads are
likely to be less but I can't even hazzard a guess as to why it matters
which nut is held firm while the other is locked up.
Regards
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Hyndman <rhyndman(at)paradise.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Florida to New Zealand |
A container will be leaving Florida soon for New Zealand. It will
contain 1 Europa so will only be half full. Anyone wishing to use the
remaining space should contact Ross.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
>With the half nut on first, I can see that the load on its threads are
>likely to be less but I can't even hazzard a guess as to why it matters
>which nut is held firm while the other is locked up.
Kingsley
you spotted the fact that lock nut load is less but the load on the outer
nut is increased by the lock nut. Having lock nut on top would load it up
too much
Graham
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
Does anyone have any information on the Kremen / Woodcomp SR2000 SR3000 performance
compared to the AirMaster? I understand the SR3000 will be full feather
so it works for the glider. Does the SR2000 do a better job at higher altitudes
(say 18000 ft) than the Airmaster where the blades apparently don't have quite
enough area?
Also, anyone getting responses from Martin at Airmaster? Airmaster is starting
to be quiet like EMIL did at the end.
Jim Butcher A185 N241BW
Finishing electrical, engine to go, paint done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Seitz" <daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Are you talking about Airmaster-USA? If so I had enough of them my first
call to them. I've been dealing direct with Airmaster Propellers Ltd
Phone: +64 9 8360065 Fax: +64 9 8360069.
I called them on 12/28/04 about my prop date. They emailed me back it would
be early February. Was supposed to be January.
Dean Seitz
A284 N284A XS/NG 914 Airmaster
Primed almost ready for paint, waiting for prop and working on panel and
electrical.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Butcher
Subject: Europa-List: Props
Does anyone have any information on the Kremen / Woodcomp SR2000 SR3000
performance compared to the AirMaster? I understand the SR3000 will be full
feather so it works for the glider. Does the SR2000 do a better job at
higher altitudes (say 18000 ft) than the Airmaster where the blades
apparently don't have quite enough area?
Also, anyone getting responses from Martin at Airmaster? Airmaster is
starting to be quiet like EMIL did at the end.
Jim Butcher A185 N241BW
Finishing electrical, engine to go, paint done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Received-SPF: none
>> Also, anyone getting responses from Martin at Airmaster? Airmaster
is starting to be quiet like EMIL did at the end.
That might have something to do with the fact that it's been summer
holidays here and Airmaster, like many NZ companies, closes for two or
three weeks after Christmas. I know that Martin is back in the factory
today.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Hi Jim.
My last contact with Martin on E.mail was 14/12 04
Rgds,
Hans. hansjd(at)online.no
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Seitz" <daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Props
>
> Are you talking about Airmaster-USA? If so I had enough of them my first
> call to them. I've been dealing direct with Airmaster Propellers Ltd
> Phone: +64 9 8360065 Fax: +64 9 8360069.
>
> I called them on 12/28/04 about my prop date. They emailed me back it
> would
> be early February. Was supposed to be January.
>
>
> Dean Seitz
> A284 N284A XS/NG 914 Airmaster
> Primed almost ready for paint, waiting for prop and working on panel and
> electrical.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Butcher
> To: europalist
> Subject: Europa-List: Props
>
>
> Does anyone have any information on the Kremen / Woodcomp SR2000 SR3000
> performance compared to the AirMaster? I understand the SR3000 will be
> full
> feather so it works for the glider. Does the SR2000 do a better job at
> higher altitudes (say 18000 ft) than the Airmaster where the blades
> apparently don't have quite enough area?
>
> Also, anyone getting responses from Martin at Airmaster? Airmaster is
> starting to be quiet like EMIL did at the end.
>
> Jim Butcher A185 N241BW
> Finishing electrical, engine to go, paint done.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Marston" <robertmarston(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First flight G-CDBX |
Im delighted to announce the first flight of G-CDBX, which took place at
14.05 today at Shenstone airfield in the very capable hands of Lyndon Thorne
(Taff).
The day started with the weather not looking good enough to fly, there was a
crosswind and it was gusting quite badly.
We checked the plane out this morning and Taff then decided to do some
fast taxiing down the runway. From the moment he got in and started
taxiing it was clear that he could make it perform like I never could, even
though he had never been in it before. The fast taxiing consisted of 2
runs up and down the runway, during which the airspeed indicator touched 40
knots. It seemed to perform fine so it was back to the hangar. Next was
a full power check for two minutes, with 2 people on each wing holding it
back. Again, no problems.
Then the top cowling was removed, and the engine checked for loose bits and
leaks.
The weather was still not looking good so lunch was started.
At about 14.00 Taff said he was going to perform some more fast taxiing,
and that she might fly. The hint as enough, I thought I knew him well
enough to know she was going. I watched him walk to the plane, climb in,
and close the canopy, thats when it began to dawn on me that she might just
be going flying. I quickly spread the word to my wife, children and
friends. By now Taff was already taxiing out to the runway.
We watched as he went to the end of the runway, did a 180-degree turn and
stopped. By now there was a crowd of 15 of more expectant observers. Taff
waited at the end of the runway, we heard the engine run up, mag. checks and
so on. Taff had waited too long, this was no fast taxi check, this was the
real thing.
The wiggle of the tail showed the power had come on, full power and he meant
business as it accelerated down the runway. After 150m there was daylight
beneath the wheels. She hugged the ground for a while gaining airspeed
before climbing effortlessly into the air. He told me later that because of
the gusty conditions he wanted to accelerate to about 75knts for the climb
out. The climb looked good. At what looked like 500ft I heard the engine
throttle back slightly as Taff told me he would. So far everything looked
fine and I was more than relieved.
After 5 minutes or so, Taff was on the hand held radio saying he was going
to 'fly an approach and overshoot'. There was clearly a crosswind as he
crabbed in, but the plane looked great. The sight of G-CDBX as Taff flew
past at 20 ft down the runway was definitely the best. This was when I
knew she really did fly.
There followed another circuit, and then the landing. The approach looked
good, even thought the wind didnt. The round out at 6 inches above the
ground was followed by the smoothest of landings. Some people, Taff,
amongst others seem to produce a perfect landing in less than favourable
conditions and I struggle to produce an acceptable landing in perfect
conditions.
This was just another day for Taff but clearly one I will not forget.
Im sure the next few weeks and indeed my first flight in G_CDBX will be
equally satisfying.
My thanks to everyone who has helped me in this project.
Robert Marston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | First flight G-CDBX |
Congratulations Robert.
Everybody says it's a great feeling but unfortunately, I haven't been
able to experience it yet. Hopefully I will one day.
Now that you have it flying, I'm sure your landings will improve with a
little practice and adherence to sound procedures. Good luck and enjoy
your flying.
Regards
Kingsley Hurst in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
Hi All,
I was pondering this exercise over the weekend. I have the gauges supplied by
Lockwood and I assume that this is what is recommended by Rotax. They don't work
that great and several people have been having more success with manifold gauges
from twin engine aircraft that have 2 needles sitting on top of each other.
I was wondering if this could be done with a single gauge that has a center zero
and maybe 5 ~ 10 psi either side. I haven't tired to locate such a gauge but
I shouldn't think it would be too hard to find one.
Anyone have any thought on the practicality of this idea.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
Paul
I have the mercury manometer type of carb balancer. I got it at a motorcycle
shop. I saw the twin gauges from Lockwood, they should work too. But I
think mine is much more accurate.
Your idea is not clear to me. A single needle could read plus or mines only
in a differential way. That is the information you need to make the
adjustment, but I can not figure out how to hook up the hoses to do that.
I made 6 mm (I think they were) fitting for hoses and screwed them into the
intake manifolds. Then took one end off the cross-over pipe and plugged each
connection with two plug of the right size. With the manometer duct taped in
the passenger seat, I ran the engine and tool the reading. I found that the
adjusting nuts on the bowden cables were very sensitive in the adjusting.
(one flat turn of the nut made a lot of difference)
I hope this helps. The carbs need to be checked now and then. It really
make a differance at less than full power settings.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ?
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was pondering this exercise over the weekend. I have the gauges
> supplied by Lockwood and I assume that this is what is recommended by
> Rotax. They don't work that great and several people have been having more
> success with manifold gauges from twin engine aircraft that have 2 needles
> sitting on top of each other.
>
> I was wondering if this could be done with a single gauge that has a
> center zero and maybe 5 ~ 10 psi either side. I haven't tired to locate
> such a gauge but I shouldn't think it would be too hard to find one.
>
> Anyone have any thought on the practicality of this idea.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Growzone" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
> Kingsley
> you spotted the fact that lock nut load is less but the load on the outer
> nut is increased by the lock nut. Having lock nut on top would load it up
> too much
> Graham
Got that thank you Graham.
Are you also able to explain why the outer nut should be held while the
inner is backed off to effect the lock rather than the other way around ?
I've now got a theory but I wouldn't bet on it.
While I'm at it Graham, are two swages on a cable thimble any stronger than
one ? Tests I have seen carried out have broken the cable rather than
pulling through the swage so I can't help but wonder about the point of
having two.
Thanks again ole mate.
Kingsley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
> I was wondering if this could be done with a single gauge that has a
center zero and maybe 5 ~ 10 psi either side. I haven't tired to locate
such a gauge but I shouldn't think it would be too hard to find one.
Paul,
I balance my carbs from time to time using a home made water manometer.
It comprises a length of tubing (that was originally supplied for the
instruments) into which I put about a metre of water. I disconnect the
balance tube between the manifolds and connect the tube between the open
ends. I attach the tube to a solid support alongside the aircraft and
visible from the cockpit such that there is at least a metre of empty tube
each side above the water level. I then run the engine and adjust the cable
lengths to achieve the best compromise of balance throughout the range.
If the imbalance is such that the water gets sucked/blown out you get a
puff of steam from the exhaust and have to start again - possibly with a
longer tube!
It is interesting to note that rapid movements of the throttle always
cause an initial imbalance but that this rapidly subsides - a good reason
for being gentle with the throttle.
Roger (G-BXTD)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
Cheap carb balancing kit.
Firstly, I believe the Europa club has a Skydrive carb balancer which can be
loaned out. Its a more sophisticated version of what I am about to describe.
If you prefer to make your own see below.
I made mine from a pair of Gunsons car tuning gauges (think they are called
Hi Gauge) purchased from Halfords (about 15 each from memory). You need a
restrictor to iron out the oscillations for which I used a couple of fish
tank air regulators (50p each probably) and a length of instrument tubing
(PVC)
Remove the balance tube between the inlet manifolds and connect a guage to
each one. Its a good idea to fit a balance pipe between the guages to check
that they are reading the same initially, but must be removed or shut off
when balancing the carbs.
If anyone would like a photo, email me at carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Anderson" <randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ?
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
>> I was wondering if this could be done with a single gauge that has a
> center zero and maybe 5 ~ 10 psi either side. I haven't tired to locate
> such a gauge but I shouldn't think it would be too hard to find one.
>
> Paul,
> I balance my carbs from time to time using a home made water manometer.
> It comprises a length of tubing (that was originally supplied for the
> instruments) into which I put about a metre of water. I disconnect the
> balance tube between the manifolds and connect the tube between the open
> ends. I attach the tube to a solid support alongside the aircraft and
> visible from the cockpit such that there is at least a metre of empty
> tube
> each side above the water level. I then run the engine and adjust the
> cable
> lengths to achieve the best compromise of balance throughout the range.
> If the imbalance is such that the water gets sucked/blown out you get a
> puff of steam from the exhaust and have to start again - possibly with a
> longer tube!
> It is interesting to note that rapid movements of the throttle always
> cause an initial imbalance but that this rapidly subsides - a good reason
> for being gentle with the throttle.
> Roger (G-BXTD)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | ANR Headsets For Sale |
I am currently selling my old Skyforce headset on Ebay as I was given a new one
for Christmas. There are actually two for sale, (though only one advertised).
Both in good condition. Physically they are similar to Dave Clark/ Avcomm headsets.
The ANR is very effective though not as comfortable as the new one (Sennheiser
HMEC 300).
If you are looking for a cheap pair of ANR headsets then you might consider bidding
for these.
The URL is
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item5551351310&ssPageNameADME:B:LC:UK:1
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | europa(at)brownfamily.org.uk |
| Subject: | credit card refund of europe kit deposit |
Hi Folks,
just a quick note for anyone who paid a deposit to EMIL using their
credit card - my card issuer just refunded me the complete amount.
They took plenty of time, and I didn't feel confident given that the
transaction was back in June 2003 but in the end they came good.
I mention all this since there may be others who have not yet tried this
route.
cheers
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight G-CDBX |
Robert, congratulations on this landmark occasion. It is wonderful to
hear about another Eupopa taking to the sky. First flight for N55XS is,
hopefully, only a few months away. I hope that it goes as well as yours
has. Again, congratulations...
Jeff
A055 Tri-Gear
Ready for paint and FWF...
Robert Marston wrote:
>
>Im delighted to announce the first flight of G-CDBX, which took place at
>14.05 today at Shenstone airfield in the very capable hands of Lyndon Thorne
>(Taff).
>
>The day started with the weather not looking good enough to fly, there was a
>crosswind and it was gusting quite badly.
>We checked the plane out this morning and Taff then decided to do some
>fast taxiing down the runway. From the moment he got in and started
>taxiing it was clear that he could make it perform like I never could, even
>though he had never been in it before. The fast taxiing consisted of 2
>runs up and down the runway, during which the airspeed indicator touched 40
>knots. It seemed to perform fine so it was back to the hangar. Next was
>a full power check for two minutes, with 2 people on each wing holding it
>back. Again, no problems.
>Then the top cowling was removed, and the engine checked for loose bits and
>leaks.
>
>The weather was still not looking good so lunch was started.
>At about 14.00 Taff said he was going to perform some more fast taxiing,
>and that she might fly. The hint as enough, I thought I knew him well
>enough to know she was going. I watched him walk to the plane, climb in,
>and close the canopy, thats when it began to dawn on me that she might just
>be going flying. I quickly spread the word to my wife, children and
>friends. By now Taff was already taxiing out to the runway.
>We watched as he went to the end of the runway, did a 180-degree turn and
>stopped. By now there was a crowd of 15 of more expectant observers. Taff
>waited at the end of the runway, we heard the engine run up, mag. checks and
>so on. Taff had waited too long, this was no fast taxi check, this was the
>real thing.
>The wiggle of the tail showed the power had come on, full power and he meant
>business as it accelerated down the runway. After 150m there was daylight
>beneath the wheels. She hugged the ground for a while gaining airspeed
>before climbing effortlessly into the air. He told me later that because of
>the gusty conditions he wanted to accelerate to about 75knts for the climb
>out. The climb looked good. At what looked like 500ft I heard the engine
>throttle back slightly as Taff told me he would. So far everything looked
>fine and I was more than relieved.
>After 5 minutes or so, Taff was on the hand held radio saying he was going
>to 'fly an approach and overshoot'. There was clearly a crosswind as he
>crabbed in, but the plane looked great. The sight of G-CDBX as Taff flew
>past at 20 ft down the runway was definitely the best. This was when I
>knew she really did fly.
>There followed another circuit, and then the landing. The approach looked
>good, even thought the wind didnt. The round out at 6 inches above the
>ground was followed by the smoothest of landings. Some people, Taff,
>amongst others seem to produce a perfect landing in less than favourable
>conditions and I struggle to produce an acceptable landing in perfect
>conditions.
>This was just another day for Taff but clearly one I will not forget.
>Im sure the next few weeks and indeed my first flight in G_CDBX will be
>equally satisfying.
>My thanks to everyone who has helped me in this project.
>
>Robert Marston
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First flight G-CDBX |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Robert Hi!
Congratulations on your first flight!
Your summary of the events of the day was very useful. I'm hopeful I'll join
you later this year.
Hope weather improves and that initial 5 hours is quickly flown off.
Kind Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight G-CDBX |
Congrats on the first flight of your bird - great feeling isn't it ?
Hope the test programme is completed quickly, without any problems and all
is signed off ready to go soon.
Tony Bale
XS 336 G-CCUL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Marston" <robertmarston(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Europa-List: First flight G-CDBX
>
> Im delighted to announce the first flight of G-CDBX, which took place at
> 14.05 today at Shenstone airfield in the very capable hands of Lyndon
Thorne
> (Taff).
>
> The day started with the weather not looking good enough to fly, there was
a
> crosswind and it was gusting quite badly.
> We checked the plane out this morning and Taff then decided to do some
> fast taxiing down the runway. From the moment he got in and started
> taxiing it was clear that he could make it perform like I never could,
even
> though he had never been in it before. The fast taxiing consisted of 2
> runs up and down the runway, during which the airspeed indicator touched
40
> knots. It seemed to perform fine so it was back to the hangar. Next
was
> a full power check for two minutes, with 2 people on each wing holding it
> back. Again, no problems.
> Then the top cowling was removed, and the engine checked for loose bits
and
> leaks.
>
> The weather was still not looking good so lunch was started.
> At about 14.00 Taff said he was going to perform some more fast taxiing,
> and that she might fly. The hint as enough, I thought I knew him well
> enough to know she was going. I watched him walk to the plane, climb in,
> and close the canopy, thats when it began to dawn on me that she might
just
> be going flying. I quickly spread the word to my wife, children and
> friends. By now Taff was already taxiing out to the runway.
> We watched as he went to the end of the runway, did a 180-degree turn and
> stopped. By now there was a crowd of 15 of more expectant observers.
Taff
> waited at the end of the runway, we heard the engine run up, mag. checks
and
> so on. Taff had waited too long, this was no fast taxi check, this was the
> real thing.
> The wiggle of the tail showed the power had come on, full power and he
meant
> business as it accelerated down the runway. After 150m there was daylight
> beneath the wheels. She hugged the ground for a while gaining airspeed
> before climbing effortlessly into the air. He told me later that because
of
> the gusty conditions he wanted to accelerate to about 75knts for the climb
> out. The climb looked good. At what looked like 500ft I heard the engine
> throttle back slightly as Taff told me he would. So far everything looked
> fine and I was more than relieved.
> After 5 minutes or so, Taff was on the hand held radio saying he was going
> to 'fly an approach and overshoot'. There was clearly a crosswind as he
> crabbed in, but the plane looked great. The sight of G-CDBX as Taff flew
> past at 20 ft down the runway was definitely the best. This was when I
> knew she really did fly.
> There followed another circuit, and then the landing. The approach looked
> good, even thought the wind didnt. The round out at 6 inches above the
> ground was followed by the smoothest of landings. Some people, Taff,
> amongst others seem to produce a perfect landing in less than favourable
> conditions and I struggle to produce an acceptable landing in perfect
> conditions.
> This was just another day for Taff but clearly one I will not forget.
> Im sure the next few weeks and indeed my first flight in G_CDBX will be
> equally satisfying.
> My thanks to everyone who has helped me in this project.
>
> Robert Marston
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | G-CCUL Flight Test Latest |
Well folks, the last flight was completed by the test pilot yesterday with the
2 hour endurance and 8 circuits to get the landings in.
The test pilot advised us of a bit of rough running halfway through the flight,
but he was pretty sure it was carb ice, conditions were perfect for it in our
neck of the woods.
This brought the total flying time to about 5 1/4 hours all in.
We are looking forward to receiving the lengthy report Paul is putting together
with all the graphs and calcs to prove she pretty much does as she should, now
it's down to the PFA for the permit issue.
We don't run the Skydrive water manifold heater kit, what are the feelings in the
community about it ?
All the best
Tony.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
For what you're looking for, go to:
http://www.calamander.co.uk/twinmax/twinmaxmk2.htm
which is a differential gauge that looks at both carbs simultaneously. Made
in France and a bit expensive. I've no idea how well it works.
Personally I've used a manometer that has a stainless steel rod in each arm,
instead of mercury. Much safer, but doesn't work as well, is sensitive to
dust making the rods stick slightly and needs to be held accurately upright.
Details at
http://www.carbtune.com/
But it was cheap!
Quirks of the engine seem to preclude being able to balance the carbs
across the rev. range; another compromise needed. However, if tickover speed
is to be low enough to land into short strips, the balance needs to be good
at idle speed.
I've got no further with finding out what it is that causes the variation of
balance; it may be tolerances in the pressed steel throttle arm and the way
it is tightened on to the throttle spindle; I'll explain further if you
haven't nodded off at this point.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ?
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was pondering this exercise over the weekend. I have the gauges
supplied by Lockwood and I assume that this is what is recommended by Rotax.
They don't work that great and several people have been having more success
with manifold gauges from twin engine aircraft that have 2 needles sitting
on top of each other.
>
> I was wondering if this could be done with a single gauge that has a
center zero and maybe 5 ~ 10 psi either side. I haven't tired to locate
such a gauge but I shouldn't think it would be too hard to find one.
>
> Anyone have any thought on the practicality of this idea.
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | RE: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest |
Tony,
Thanks for the update. Be sure to post the flight test results as
encouragement for the rest of us out here who are trying to make the
list of the grinning flyers.
You might consider posting the report on the europa owners (
http://www.europaowners.org ) site where you could include the graphs
and charts as well.
Have some great flying time in your new magic carpet,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(75%) Work on hold while I accumulate $$ to purchase the plexi, prop
and other parts that I'll never get from EMIL or E(04). Meanwhile,
working on Instrument, Commercial, CFI & CFII ratings for potential
career change.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest |
> We don't run the Skydrive water manifold heater kit, what are the feelings
> in the community about it ?
but he was pretty sure it was carb ice,
Think you answered your own question. Can you really run the risk of carb
icing for the sake of 200. Not a lot to pay for peace of mind.
I am considering the ST option (electrically heated) as these are easier to
retrofit (see latest PFA magazine) . To be fair we have never experienced
what could be described as carb icing (2 years flying) but it dosent mean
there wont be a first time.
Carl
G-LABS (classic Europa)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest
>
> Well folks, the last flight was completed by the test pilot yesterday with
> the 2 hour endurance and 8 circuits to get the landings in.
> The test pilot advised us of a bit of rough running halfway through the
> flight, but he was pretty sure it was carb ice, conditions were perfect
> for it in our neck of the woods.
>
> This brought the total flying time to about 5 1/4 hours all in.
>
> We are looking forward to receiving the lengthy report Paul is putting
> together with all the graphs and calcs to prove she pretty much does as
> she should, now it's down to the PFA for the permit issue.
>
> We don't run the Skydrive water manifold heater kit, what are the feelings
> in the community about it ?
>
> All the best
>
> Tony.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Crimm" <steve.crimm(at)stephenscott.com> |
| Subject: | Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
Here is a US vendor for the TwinMax http://www.adventuremotogear.com/
$89.95 plus $5.75 S&H
Steve Crimm
A058
N15JN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan
McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ?
-->
For what you're looking for, go to:
http://www.calamander.co.uk/twinmax/twinmaxmk2.htm
which is a differential gauge that looks at both carbs simultaneously. Made
in France and a bit expensive. I've no idea how well it works.
Personally I've used a manometer that has a stainless steel rod in each arm,
instead of mercury. Much safer, but doesn't work as well, is sensitive to
dust making the rods stick slightly and needs to be held accurately upright.
Details at
http://www.carbtune.com/
But it was cheap!
Quirks of the engine seem to preclude being able to balance the carbs
across the rev. range; another compromise needed. However, if tickover speed
is to be low enough to land into short strips, the balance needs to be good
at idle speed.
I've got no further with finding out what it is that causes the variation of
balance; it may be tolerances in the pressed steel throttle arm and the way
it is tightened on to the throttle spindle; I'll explain further if you
haven't nodded off at this point.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ?
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was pondering this exercise over the weekend. I have the gauges
supplied by Lockwood and I assume that this is what is recommended by Rotax.
They don't work that great and several people have been having more success
with manifold gauges from twin engine aircraft that have 2 needles sitting
on top of each other.
>
> I was wondering if this could be done with a single gauge that has a
center zero and maybe 5 ~ 10 psi either side. I haven't tired to locate
such a gauge but I shouldn't think it would be too hard to find one.
>
> Anyone have any thought on the practicality of this idea.
>
> Paul
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest |
You'll need to fit two of these, which will take half of the output of the
alternator!
Duncan McF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest
>
> > We don't run the Skydrive water manifold heater kit, what are the
feelings
> > in the community about it ?
>
> but he was pretty sure it was carb ice,
>
> Think you answered your own question. Can you really run the risk of carb
> icing for the sake of 200. Not a lot to pay for peace of mind.
>
> I am considering the ST option (electrically heated) as these are easier
to
> retrofit (see latest PFA magazine) . To be fair we have never experienced
> what could be described as carb icing (2 years flying) but it dosent mean
> there wont be a first time.
>
> Carl
> G-LABS (classic Europa)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest
>
>
> >
> > Well folks, the last flight was completed by the test pilot yesterday
with
> > the 2 hour endurance and 8 circuits to get the landings in.
> > The test pilot advised us of a bit of rough running halfway through the
> > flight, but he was pretty sure it was carb ice, conditions were perfect
> > for it in our neck of the woods.
> >
> > This brought the total flying time to about 5 1/4 hours all in.
> >
> > We are looking forward to receiving the lengthy report Paul is putting
> > together with all the graphs and calcs to prove she pretty much does as
> > she should, now it's down to the PFA for the permit issue.
> >
> > We don't run the Skydrive water manifold heater kit, what are the
feelings
> > in the community about it ?
> >
> > All the best
> >
> > Tony.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Higgins" <ghiggins(at)norex.com.au> |
From a different feeble non-engineering mind in OZ, but affected by the same
weather and living life upside down, it eludes me as to how placing the half
nut on the bolt first, at the required torque, REDUCES the load on the half
nut. It seems to me that the same load borne by half the thread surface
area means twice the load on those threads.
Of the two methods discussed, it seems to me that neither method is
completely satisfactory. The difficulty in both methods is allowing for the
change in torque on the article being held by the first nut, by the addition
of the second nut. If the first nut is correctly torqued, then addition of a
second nut , regardless of whether full or half size,will increase that
torque, if the first is kept stationary. If the second nut is tightened to
some suitable torque, then the first is backed off to the same torque, that
should produce the required torque on the article, but I admit in practice
this is more art than science.
Please educate me. Graham Higgins in OZ,
(non flying, but feeling well enough
to start planning repairs to my pranged Mono.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
If the first nut is correctly torqued, then addition of a
> second nut , regardless of whether full or half size,will increase that
> torque, if the first is kept stationary. If the second nut is tightened to
> some suitable torque, then the first is backed off to the same torque,
> that
> should produce the required torque on the article, but I admit in practice
> this is more art than science.
> Please educate me. Graham Higgins in OZ,
> (non flying, but feeling well enough
> to start planning repairs to my pranged Mono.)
(I jsut can't stay out of this one) Get well fast Graham !!!!
There are always two "right" ways to do something. In the school I came
from the nuts wer to bup on the other way around. Because; The first nut
is sized and torked for the load. It is doing the work. The second nust is
added to "jam" the first nut to keep it in place. The jaming load is no
where near the required load of the firt nut.
Just another opinion !
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <Ted_Gladstone(at)COMPUSERVE.COM> |
| Subject: | Re:- Lock Knutts !! |
Message text written by INTERNET:europa-list(at)matronics.com
>
Ted,
Would really appreciate an explanation of the reasoning behind this
please.
An intellectually handicapped mind would like to know !
With the half nut on first, I can see that the load on its threads are
likely to be less but I can't even hazzard a guess as to why it matters
which nut is held firm while the other is locked up.
Regards
Kingsley
<
Hi Kingsley,
If you consider a section through the axis of the nut an bolt and greatly
enlarge the zigzag line formed by cutting through the thread at the
interface between the nut and bolt, you will see that, when the nut is
tightened, the pressure will be on the sloping face of the thread towards
the bolt head - - lets call this the "zig" and there will be a gap on the
rear facing slope of the thread due to the clearance between nut & bolt - -
lets call this the "zag".
If the full size nut is put on first and tightened to the specified torque
and then the half size nut is put on and tightened, to try and lock it, it
will tend to push the full nut forward thereby reducing its pressure on the
bolts zig face and could eventually force it so far forward that it reduces
the pressure to zero and may even produce a gap on the zig face AND zag
face. The full bolt is then floating free and is acting as nothing more
than a washer !! In doing so you will invariably have had to apply
greater torque. The full tension in the bolt is then being taken by the
half nut - - which it was not designed to carry and could eventually strip
its threads. There will also be a gap on the zag face which will allow the
nut to slacken with any vibration.
If the half nut is put on first and tightened to the correct torque and
then the full nut is put on and tightened to the correct torque, both nuts
then have pressure on the zig face, If the full nut is then held
stationary (to maintain the correct torque and tension in the bolt) and the
half nut is backed off (slackened) sufficiently for its pressure to be
removed from the zig face and transferred to the zag face it will then be
jammed against the full nut. The full nut will be holding its full
designed load and be locked by the half nut - - - - just like when you put
two nuts on a threaded rod and tighten one against the other. There is
pressure on the zig face of the full nut and pressure on the zag face of
the half nut thus there is no slackness and vibration will not loosen them.
The newsreels of the Potters Bar rail crash in England a few years ago - -
which was caused by the bolts becoming loose on the points - - - showed a
close up of the offending points and I noticed that the remaining bolts
were locked with half nuts on the wrong way round. I pointed this out to
the investigating team and they stated that they would consider this during
their investigation.
It is difficult to explain in words and if it is still not clear and you,
or anyone else, would like further details I can send you the detailed
drawings that I sent to the Potters Bar Investigation Team.
Regards
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
ON RADIAL ENGINES THE CYLINDER HOLD DOWN PALNUTS GO ON LAST. I LIKE TO PAINT
WITNESS STRIPES ON STUFF THAT I REALY WONDER ABOUT. LOVE READING THE
PERSPECTIVES , DAVID
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: europa parts wanted |
| From: | "WEC" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
I have the LG02A here in my hot little hand. It is waiting for a "ship to" address
so it can be in your hanbds.
----------------
This Email contains Photos or Attachments located at the following link:
http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?p=4524#4524
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re:- Lock Knutts !! |
Ted,
Eureka - I now understand.
An excellent explanation - thanks.
regards,
MP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Gladstone" <Ted_Gladstone(at)COMPUSERVE.COM>
Subject: Europa-List: Re:- Lock Knutts !!
>
> It is difficult to explain in words and if it is still not clear and you,
> or anyone else, would like further details I can send you the detailed
> drawings that I sent to the Potters Bar Investigation Team.
>
>
> Regards
>
> Ted
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
| From: | Richard Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
> Quirks of the engine seem to preclude being able to balance the carbs
> across the rev. range; another compromise needed. However, if tickover speed
> is to be low enough to land into short strips, the balance needs to be good
> at idle speed.
Duncan, I would disagree with this.
An engine runs at cruise power almost all the time. So the speed at which
you want the best balance is cruise speed - 5000 rpm.
With a car it is possible to balance at tick-over (idle to US folks) and at
a specific rev count, as there is usually a flexible bit in the linkages.
On the Rotax the idle is defined exactly by the position of the throttle
cables (as they are tight at idle) and so a balance at 5000 defines the
balance everywhere else.
> I've got no further with finding out what it is that causes the variation of
> balance; it may be tolerances in the pressed steel throttle arm and the way
> it is tightened on to the throttle spindle; I'll explain further if you
> haven't nodded off at this point.
I think the variation from day to day is caused by the movement of the
throttle cable within the outer cable as it goes round the circuituitous
route required. Somehow a shorter and straighter route is required. Or a
single cable connected to a linkage across the engine. Unfortunately the
carbs are offset and so a cross linkage would be difficult to do.
It is a shame that Rotax didn't put on a single bigger carb with a central
location like "Lycoming". No carb balance problems then !
On the other matter discussed this morning - carb ice :
I have occasionally (normally after 40 minutes or more) had small hiccups in
the running of my 912S. It also happens when reducing power for the descent.
My (totally unproven) theory is that this is small amounts of ice forming in
the carb, then it breaks off and the engine coughs, spits out steam and then
continues. Although it is not nice I have ignored it to date. It has however
been cold recently so I fitted a temp probe to the outside of the carb body
(blutak !). It went below freezing at one point and so I decided to act. The
SkyDrive kit is now on - I am waiting for the PFA sign-off inspection
(hopefully) tomorrow.
This seems to be an XS firewall forward thing. (More totally unproven
arguments follow). With the classic fwf the radiators are at the front of
the cowling. This probably generates enough hot air to keep the carbs warm.
In the XS fwf a good chunk of this heat just passes along the cooling duct
underneath the engine, leaving the carbs colder.
Thus in winter the Classic is a better arrangement in respect of carb icing,
and in summer the XS provides better cooling !
So I will be trying my carb heater kit soon, and I hope the annoying slight
misfire will be eradicated. If not it will have been another 200 thrown
away on this plane :-(
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
++++++++ Please note new email address ++++++++
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: europa parts wanted |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
2.60 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
Good deal! I'll send $ and address today.....
Thanks Cliff,
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ? |
As we understand it this is basically correct.
Balance the engine at the operational RPM 4000-5000RPM. At this speed the
carbs should be feeding off the needle jets (as opposed to the main jets
which come into play at full throttle).
This usually leaves the carbs slightly out of balance at idle but any rough
running can be corrected using the mixture screws. The problem is adjusting
these while the engine is running. I have manufactured a tool that enables
me to connect a small socket spanner to the adjusting hex and turn the screw
without having to disconnect the carbs or remove the lower cowling.
Carl
G-LABS
From: "Richard Holder" <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Carb balancing - Differential presure gauage ?
>
>> Quirks of the engine seem to preclude being able to balance the carbs
>> across the rev. range; another compromise needed. However, if tickover
>> speed
>> is to be low enough to land into short strips, the balance needs to be
>> good
>> at idle speed.
>
> Duncan, I would disagree with this.
>
> An engine runs at cruise power almost all the time. So the speed at which
> you want the best balance is cruise speed - 5000 rpm.
>
> With a car it is possible to balance at tick-over (idle to US folks) and
> at
> a specific rev count, as there is usually a flexible bit in the linkages.
>
> On the Rotax the idle is defined exactly by the position of the throttle
> cables (as they are tight at idle) and so a balance at 5000 defines the
> balance everywhere else.
>
>> I've got no further with finding out what it is that causes the variation
>> of
>> balance; it may be tolerances in the pressed steel throttle arm and the
>> way
>> it is tightened on to the throttle spindle; I'll explain further if you
>> haven't nodded off at this point.
>
> I think the variation from day to day is caused by the movement of the
> throttle cable within the outer cable as it goes round the circuituitous
> route required. Somehow a shorter and straighter route is required. Or a
> single cable connected to a linkage across the engine. Unfortunately the
> carbs are offset and so a cross linkage would be difficult to do.
>
> It is a shame that Rotax didn't put on a single bigger carb with a central
> location like "Lycoming". No carb balance problems then !
>
> On the other matter discussed this morning - carb ice :
>
> I have occasionally (normally after 40 minutes or more) had small hiccups
> in
> the running of my 912S. It also happens when reducing power for the
> descent.
> My (totally unproven) theory is that this is small amounts of ice forming
> in
> the carb, then it breaks off and the engine coughs, spits out steam and
> then
> continues. Although it is not nice I have ignored it to date. It has
> however
> been cold recently so I fitted a temp probe to the outside of the carb
> body
> (blutak !). It went below freezing at one point and so I decided to act.
> The
> SkyDrive kit is now on - I am waiting for the PFA sign-off inspection
> (hopefully) tomorrow.
>
> This seems to be an XS firewall forward thing. (More totally unproven
> arguments follow). With the classic fwf the radiators are at the front of
> the cowling. This probably generates enough hot air to keep the carbs
> warm.
> In the XS fwf a good chunk of this heat just passes along the cooling duct
> underneath the engine, leaving the carbs colder.
>
> Thus in winter the Classic is a better arrangement in respect of carb
> icing,
> and in summer the XS provides better cooling !
>
> So I will be trying my carb heater kit soon, and I hope the annoying
> slight
> misfire will be eradicated. If not it will have been another 200 thrown
> away on this plane :-(
>
> Richard
> Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
> Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
> Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
> SG12 8SH email : richard.holder(at)avnet.co.uk
> ++++++++ Please note new email address ++++++++
> Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
> PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Photo of my carb balancer. |
At present this is out on loan to a friend. I should have it back this weekend
and I will take the appropriate photos and mail them to all concerned.
Sorry for the delay.
I will also include a photo of my idle adjuster tool.
Regards,
Carl
G-LABS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest |
You are absolutely right Duncan, but in our case we dont have very much
power going elsewhere. Strobes and AH.
Just cant be bothered to drain the cooling system and all that.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest
>
>
> You'll need to fit two of these, which will take half of the output of the
> alternator!
>
> Duncan McF
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest
>
>
>
>>
>> > We don't run the Skydrive water manifold heater kit, what are the
> feelings
>> > in the community about it ?
>>
>> but he was pretty sure it was carb ice,
>>
>> Think you answered your own question. Can you really run the risk of
>> carb
>> icing for the sake of 200. Not a lot to pay for peace of mind.
>>
>> I am considering the ST option (electrically heated) as these are easier
> to
>> retrofit (see latest PFA magazine) . To be fair we have never experienced
>> what could be described as carb icing (2 years flying) but it dosent mean
>> there wont be a first time.
>>
>> Carl
>> G-LABS (classic Europa)
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: Europa-List: G-CCUL Flight Test Latest
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Well folks, the last flight was completed by the test pilot yesterday
> with
>> > the 2 hour endurance and 8 circuits to get the landings in.
>> > The test pilot advised us of a bit of rough running halfway through the
>> > flight, but he was pretty sure it was carb ice, conditions were perfect
>> > for it in our neck of the woods.
>> >
>> > This brought the total flying time to about 5 1/4 hours all in.
>> >
>> > We are looking forward to receiving the lengthy report Paul is putting
>> > together with all the graphs and calcs to prove she pretty much does as
>> > she should, now it's down to the PFA for the permit issue.
>> >
>> > We don't run the Skydrive water manifold heater kit, what are the
> feelings
>> > in the community about it ?
>> >
>> > All the best
>> >
>> > Tony.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Boon Leong <docblee(at)streamyx.com> |
| Subject: | Re: credit card refund of europe kit deposit |
Wish there is equally good news from REDMAN NICHOLS! Looks like they
have gone to sleep! EMIL never delivered the goods after claiming the
aircraft was in a container awaiting shipment from December 03 to July
04 following full payment for it! I am sure there is grandscale fraud
involved!
Boon
Malaysia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Higgins" <ghiggins(at)norex.com.au> |
Dear Ted,
Thank you for your explanaton. I had drawn the large zigs and zags as you
suggest. I understand you are refering to the bolt thread in your discussion
below.
It seems to me that the size of the nut does not really matter, because the
same problems apply to both full and half nuts, but for the sake of clarity
in this discussion I will continue to consider the lock nut as the half nut.
You suggest the half nut is applied first, to the correct torque, then the
full nut, also to the correct torque.At this point the half nut is just
about floating, as the pressure on the zig face of the bolt thread is
approaching zero.As the half nut is backed off, some of the turn will be
just taking up the slack in the thread, and this does not change anything.
But as it is backed off further, it is putting pressure on the zag face of
the bolt. This must also reduce pressure on the article being held, as the
torque on the full nut is reduced by this amount, and the torque on the full
nut is increased by the same amount.
What is unclear to me is whether this reduction is significant, as the
article being held is not under the correct pressure.
The danger of having a floating half nut, thus negating any locking effect,
is still present, if it is not backed off far enough to create a definite
lock on the full nut.
It seems to me that as the half nut is being backed off, and just starting
to lock on the zag face, you do not want it to move from that position on
the bolt . This would require then turning both nuts towards each other ,
the half nut twice as much as the full nut, to create the lock without
changing position on the bolt, and maintain the correct pressure on the
article being held.(If using both full nuts, move them together equally)
If the thread pressure produced by the required torque to hold the article
is P1, and the thread pressure produced by the locking action is P2, it can
be seen that the outer(full) nut carries P1+ P2, and the inner(half) nut
carries only P2, which is far preferable to the reverse arrangement having
the half nut on second,carrying P1+P2.
The art is judging how firmly to lock the two nuts together!
Thank you, I now consider myself educated.
Regards Graham Higgins, in OZ.
Hi Kingsley,
If you consider a section through the axis of the nut an bolt and greatly
enlarge the zigzag line formed by cutting through the thread at the
interface between the nut and bolt, you will see that, when the nut is
tightened, the pressure will be on the sloping face of the thread towards
the bolt head - - lets call this the "zig" and there will be a gap on the
rear facing slope of the thread due to the clearance between nut & bolt - -
lets call this the "zag".
If the full size nut is put on first and tightened to the specified torque
and then the half size nut is put on and tightened, to try and lock it, it
will tend to push the full nut forward thereby reducing its pressure on the
bolts zig face and could eventually force it so far forward that it reduces
the pressure to zero and may even produce a gap on the zig face AND zag
face. The full bolt is then floating free and is acting as nothing more
than a washer !! In doing so you will invariably have had to apply
greater torque. The full tension in the bolt is then being taken by the
half nut - - which it was not designed to carry and could eventually strip
its threads. There will also be a gap on the zag face which will allow the
nut to slacken with any vibration.
If the half nut is put on first and tightened to the correct torque and
then the full nut is put on and tightened to the correct torque, both nuts
then have pressure on the zig face, If the full nut is then held
stationary (to maintain the correct torque and tension in the bolt) and the
half nut is backed off (slackened) sufficiently for its pressure to be
removed from the zig face and transferred to the zag face it will then be
jammed against the full nut. The full nut will be holding its full
designed load and be locked by the half nut - - - - just like when you put
two nuts on a threaded rod and tighten one against the other. There is
pressure on the zig face of the full nut and pressure on the zag face of
the half nut thus there is no slackness and vibration will not loosen them.
... Ted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Higgins" <ghiggins(at)norex.com.au> |
Sorry, I note a typo in the article I just posted. Hope this is clearer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Higgins" <ghiggins(at)norex.com.au>
Subject: lock nuts
> Dear Ted,
> Thank you for your explanaton. I had drawn the large zigs and zags as you
> suggest. I understand you are refering to the bolt thread in your
discussion
> below.
> It seems to me that the size of the nut does not really matter, because
the
> same problems apply to both full and half nuts, but for the sake of
clarity
> in this discussion I will continue to consider the lock nut as the half
nut.
> You suggest the half nut is applied first, to the correct torque, then
the
> full nut, also to the correct torque.At this point the half nut is just
> about floating, as the pressure on the zig face of the bolt thread is
> approaching zero.As the half nut is backed off, some of the turn will be
> just taking up the slack in the thread, and this does not change anything.
> But as it is backed off further, it is putting pressure on the zag face
of
> the bolt. This must also reduce pressure on the article being held, and
the pressure on the full
> nut threads is increased by the same amount.
> What is unclear to me is whether this reduction is significant, as the
> article being held is under less than the correct pressure.
> The danger of having a floating half nut, thus negating any locking
effect,
> is still present, if it is not backed off far enough to create a definite
> lock on the full nut.
> It seems to me that as the half nut is being backed off, and just starting
> to lock on the zag face, you do not want it to move from that position on
> the bolt . This would require then turning both nuts towards each other ,
> the half nut twice as much as the full nut, to create the lock without
> changing position on the bolt, and maintain the correct pressure on the
> article being held.(If using both full nuts, move them together equally)
> If the thread pressure produced by the required torque to hold the article
> is P1, and the thread pressure produced by the locking action is P2, it
can
> be seen that the outer(full) nut carries P1+ P2, and the inner(half) nut
> carries only P2, which is far preferable to the reverse arrangement having
> the half nut on second,carrying P1+P2.
> The art is judging how firmly to lock the two nuts together!
> Thank you, I now consider myself educated.
> Regards Graham Higgins, in OZ.
>
>
> Hi Kingsley,
>
>
> If you consider a section through the axis of the nut an bolt and greatly
> enlarge the zigzag line formed by cutting through the thread at the
> interface between the nut and bolt, you will see that, when the nut is
> tightened, the pressure will be on the sloping face of the thread towards
> the bolt head - - lets call this the "zig" and there will be a gap on the
> rear facing slope of the thread due to the clearance between nut &
bolt - -
> lets call this the "zag".
>
> If the full size nut is put on first and tightened to the specified torque
> and then the half size nut is put on and tightened, to try and lock it, it
> will tend to push the full nut forward thereby reducing its pressure on
the
> bolts zig face and could eventually force it so far forward that it
reduces
> the pressure to zero and may even produce a gap on the zig face AND zag
> face. The full bolt is then floating free and is acting as nothing more
> than a washer !! In doing so you will invariably have had to apply
> greater torque. The full tension in the bolt is then being taken by the
> half nut - - which it was not designed to carry and could eventually strip
> its threads. There will also be a gap on the zag face which will allow
the
> nut to slacken with any vibration.
>
> If the half nut is put on first and tightened to the correct torque and
> then the full nut is put on and tightened to the correct torque, both nuts
> then have pressure on the zig face, If the full nut is then held
> stationary (to maintain the correct torque and tension in the bolt) and
the
> half nut is backed off (slackened) sufficiently for its pressure to be
> removed from the zig face and transferred to the zag face it will then be
> jammed against the full nut. The full nut will be holding its full
> designed load and be locked by the half nut - - - - just like when you put
> two nuts on a threaded rod and tighten one against the other. There is
> pressure on the zig face of the full nut and pressure on the zag face of
> the half nut thus there is no slackness and vibration will not loosen
them.
>
> ... Ted.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lmorgan822(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: credit card refund of europe kit deposit |
Same thing happened to me. Mine was in a container from Feb to July. Fraud is
an understatement. I think there was collusion between EMIL and Redmond Nichols.
They were NEVER responsive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henk Roelofs <henk(at)loginet.nl> |
>Also, anyone getting responses from Martin at Airmaster? Airmaster is
>starting to be quiet like EMIL did at the end.
Hi Jim,
Last contact with Airmaster was by email Jan, 17.
They require funds to be transferred prior to shipping of the prop.
They can't do cash on delivery.
We're not sure what to do next.
Regards,
Henk & Bart
Europa #264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Burton <markb(at)ordern.com> |
> Last contact with Airmaster was by email Jan, 17.
> They require funds to be transferred prior to shipping of the prop.
> They can't do cash on delivery.
> We're not sure what to do next.
Buy an Arplast or a Woodcomp prop instead and spend the money you
saved on beer.
Just kidding,
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevpond(at)aol.com |
Just got my Airmaster on time and perfect.
Trev Pond
Kit 598
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
> <<.....spend the money you saved on beer.
> Or one of those nice constant speed controllers to go with the prop!
And still have money left for beer!
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <Ted_Gladstone(at)COMPUSERVE.COM> |
Message text written by INTERNET:europa-list(at)matronics.com
>
>- - - - - - - - ->
> You suggest the half nut is applied first, to the correct torque, then
the
> full nut, also to the correct torque.At this point the half nut is just
> about floating, as the pressure on the zig face of the bolt thread is
> approaching zero.As the half nut is backed off, some of the turn will be
> just taking up the slack in the thread, and this does not change
anything.
> But as it is backed off further, it is putting pressure on the zag face
of
> the bolt. This must also reduce pressure on the article being held, and
the pressure on the full
> nut threads is increased by the same amount.
> What is unclear to me is whether this reduction is significant, as the
> article being held is under less than the correct pressure.
> The danger of having a floating half nut, thus negating any locking
effect,
> - - - - - - - - ->
>
Hi Graham,
When you apply the correct torque to the nut you are actually stretching
the bolt to provide the correct design tension in the bolt ( it is
actually amazing just how much stretch occurs in the bolt - - - try taking
a 4 or 5M bolt of about 2 & 1/2" long, slide a 2" thick wall tube or a
stack of larger nuts or washers over it, finger tighten a nut down on it
and measure the length of the bolt with a vernier (or preferably digital)
caliper. Then tighten the nut with a spanner and measure the length of
the bolt again - - you will be surprised by how much it has stretched !!)
Thus, when you back off the half thickness nut to apply pressure against
the full nut, although you increase the pressure on the zig face of the
full nut, as long as the full nut has not turned, the stretch in the
bolt, and therefore the tension in the bolt will not have changed. The
article will still be held at the correct pressure.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Which cable to use |
Is PVF cable just as good as Tefzel.? Should we be using it in our aircraft?
Its a lot cheaper!
Is there one guage of cable that we can use for most purposes as long as it can
cope with the current capacity required by the largest consumer?
Mike Gamble
XS Mono 440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Popenoe" <cpops(at)verizon.net> |
I've been following this thread and haven't been convinced by the arguments.
So, as an curious experimental scientist, I happen to have in my lab a
Skidmore-Wilhelm tensile test device, capable of measuring the tensile load
on a bolt quite accurately. I placed a 1/2-13 bolt in the device and with a
fitting nut, torqued it to 6000 lbf measured tensile force. I then placed
another 1/2" nut on top and torqued it down as a locknut. The tensile force
on the bolt did not change--remained at 6000 lbf. Next, I loosened the
locknut and tightened it to snug condition, and while holding the locknut
fixed, backed off the lower nut to lock the pair. The bolt tensile preload
decreased to 5000 lbf. I repeated the set of experiments again, with the
same result. Q.E.D.! This little experiment confirmed my suspicions that
the locking nut should remain on top. Please tell me if am I doing
something wrong?
Pops
A036 -- on hold at the moment.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Edward
Gladstone
Subject: Europa-List: lock nuts
-->
Message text written by INTERNET:europa-list(at)matronics.com
-->
>
>- - - - - - - - ->
> You suggest the half nut is applied first, to the correct torque,
>then
the
> full nut, also to the correct torque.At this point the half nut is
> just about floating, as the pressure on the zig face of the bolt
> thread is approaching zero.As the half nut is backed off, some of the
> turn will be just taking up the slack in the thread, and this does not
> change
anything.
> But as it is backed off further, it is putting pressure on the zag
> face
of
> the bolt. This must also reduce pressure on the article being held,
> and
the pressure on the full
> nut threads is increased by the same amount.
> What is unclear to me is whether this reduction is significant, as the
> article being held is under less than the correct pressure. The danger
> of having a floating half nut, thus negating any locking
effect,
> - - - - - - - - ->
>
Hi Graham,
When you apply the correct torque to the nut you are actually stretching the
bolt to provide the correct design tension in the bolt ( it is actually
amazing just how much stretch occurs in the bolt - - - try taking a 4 or 5M
bolt of about 2 & 1/2" long, slide a 2" thick wall tube or a stack of
larger nuts or washers over it, finger tighten a nut down on it and measure
the length of the bolt with a vernier (or preferably digital)
caliper. Then tighten the nut with a spanner and measure the length of
the bolt again - - you will be surprised by how much it has stretched !!)
Thus, when you back off the half thickness nut to apply pressure against
the full nut, although you increase the pressure on the zig face of the
full nut, as long as the full nut has not turned, the stretch in the
bolt, and therefore the tension in the bolt will not have changed. The
article will still be held at the correct pressure.
Ted
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
> decreased to 5000 lbf. I repeated the set of experiments again, with the
> same result. Q.E.D.! This little experiment confirmed my suspicions
> that
> the locking nut should remain on top. Please tell me if am I doing
> something wrong?
>
> Pops
> A036 -- on hold at the moment.
Thanks !!!
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
IMHO There are much better ways to stop a nut from loosing than a jam nut
!!! The only place a jam nut is to be used is when there is no load on the
first threaded devise. (rod ends)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi! Chuck
Since you are now testing all the theory that is suggested please test
what is claimed to be the correct procedure........ Torque up to full
load a lock nut first measuring very accurately the elongation of the
bolt. Then apply the main nut and torque it up to the same torque on top
of the lock nut. Check the elongation of the bolt (it should be the
same). Then holding the main nut steady back off the lock nut to the
underside of the main nut, and you should find that the elongation
hasn't changed.
The point to all this is that when you torque up nuts onto bolts the
working tensile strength of the bolt is the objective you are trying to
always replicate. It is easier to get repeat tensile strain on a bolt by
specifying the torque on the nut than to fanny about measuring the
loaded length of all bolts individually.
If you under tighten nuts the bolts will obviously not achieve their
design objective and remain elastic. Correctly loaded bolts within their
design loads will also remain elastic.
However should you over tighten then the bolt will eventually get to
its yield point where it starts to "waist" and it gets progressively
considerably longer without any useful increase in load until it breaks.
Bolts that have entered their yield area are plastic and do not return
to their original length when loosened hence they are scrap.
You will find that the vast proportion of bolts on the Europa are
designed to be in shear not tension hence they are not generally torqued
up.
It's only necessary for such finite tensile requirements on highly
stressed items such as engine compartment and fire wall forward.
Some applications can subject the bolts to over load in service by the
nature of the application. For instance the bolts holding a crane slew
ring together are highly stressed and in a very critical operation apart
from the elastic considerations the repetitive loading and unloading
causes a metallurgical change in their composition called WORK
HARDENING, at regulated periods these have to be considered "life
expired" scrapped and replaced with new.
So one reason for torquing bolts is to control against over tightening
as well as undertightening since as you will see above you could finish
up with condemned bolts.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa 337 MKI/Jabiru 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck
Popenoe
Subject: RE: Europa-List: lock nuts
I've been following this thread and haven't been convinced by the
arguments.
So, as an curious experimental scientist, I happen to have in my lab a
Skidmore-Wilhelm tensile test device, capable of measuring the tensile
load
on a bolt quite accurately. I placed a 1/2-13 bolt in the device and
with a
fitting nut, torqued it to 6000 lbf measured tensile force. I then
placed
another 1/2" nut on top and torqued it down as a locknut. The tensile
force
on the bolt did not change--remained at 6000 lbf. Next, I loosened the
locknut and tightened it to snug condition, and while holding the
locknut
fixed, backed off the lower nut to lock the pair. The bolt tensile
preload
decreased to 5000 lbf. I repeated the set of experiments again, with
the
same result. Q.E.D.! This little experiment confirmed my suspicions
that
the locking nut should remain on top. Please tell me if am I doing
something wrong?
Pops
A036 -- on hold at the moment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Gladstone <Ted_Gladstone(at)COMPUSERVE.COM> |
Message text written by INTERNET:europa-list(at)matronics.com
>-- - - - - >
>Next, I loosened the locknut and tightened it to snug condition, and while
holding the locknut
>fixed, backed off the lower nut to lock the pair. The bolt tensile
preload decreased to 5000 lbf. <
> - - - - >
.
Hi Chuck,
This is exactly as I would have expected - - - - the tension in the bolt
is produced by the stretching of the bolt by applying torque to the nut.
When you loosened the locknut and tightened it to a snug condition (and
thus a lesser tension) you then reduced the stretch in the bolt when you
backed off the lower nut to lock the pair.
I suspect that in you first half of your experiment the nuts were not
properly locked - - To provide the correct lock there has to be a wedge
effect between the two nuts and to do this by tightening down the second
nut you would have to push the first nut further along the bolt to transfer
the pressure from the zig to the zag face. To do this you would have to
apply a far greater torque than that applied to the first nut. this would
mean that the bolt would be stretched further & therefor I would expect the
tension in the bolt to have increased.
Try the second half of your experiment by applying the correct torque to
the second nut and hold it stationary (thus keeping the stretch the same)
while you back off the first nut. In backing off the first nut it
does not move along the bolt, it only transfers the pressure from the zig
to the zag face of the thread to produce the wedge action.
By the way - - - the method that I have described as the correct method is
not my pet idea - - - as a retired professional engineer it was drummed
into me as an apprentice and again when I studied for my Mechanical
Engineering Degree many years ago.
With the development of the modern "stiff" nuts and other locking aids the
basic stuff seems to have been forgotten.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kenneth b. carpenter" <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | over-voltage from alternator |
I have experienced the alternator over charging the system. When revving up the
engine, it goes up to 17 volts. Drop back to idle and the voltage drops back
to 13.5V. It has done it rarely for a moment or two when first starting the
engine. Then it did not recur in flight. Yesterday it went up to 17V. while
in cruise. I reduced the RPM to about 4500 and the voltage went back to normal.
I returned to the field with no detectable harm to anything. All the electronics
will take 12-24V so they were not harmed. The overvoltage did not last
long enough to harm the battery.
Anyone else had this problem? Do I need a new voltage regulator? I plan to check
connections on the battery and such to see if something is loose.
Ken Carpenter
N 9XS 914 Mono
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: over-voltage from alternator |
Ken
Electronics I can help with ( jam nuts are a different story. I am "up-side
down" ) If you have good electrical connections all around, the regulator
is the problem.
The connection I would be suspicious of are the ones coming off the
regulator to the battery. You may be seeing a voltage that is trying to
compensate for a high resistance current path to the battery. The only
regulator problems I have heard of are sagging off of the charge voltage
(lower).
Good luck, and let us all know what you do to fix it. Thanks
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
b. carpenter"
> Anyone else had this problem? Do I need a new voltage regulator? I plan
> to check connections on the battery and such to see if something is loose.
> Ken Carpenter
> N 9XS 914 Mono
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: over-voltage from alternator |
Hi Ken,
I had a similar over-voltage problem last year and because I have the
"Crowbar" mod fitted it kept activating the over-voltage circuit breaker.
As soon as I replaced the regulator, the problem stopped. The over-voltage
was intermittent.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "kenneth b. carpenter" <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: over-voltage from alternator
>
> I have experienced the alternator over charging the system. When revving
up the engine, it goes up to 17 volts. Drop back to idle and the voltage
drops back to 13.5V. It has done it rarely for a moment or two when first
starting the engine. Then it did not recur in flight. Yesterday it went up
to 17V. while in cruise. I reduced the RPM to about 4500 and the voltage
went back to normal. I returned to the field with no detectable harm to
anything. All the electronics will take 12-24V so they were not harmed.
The overvoltage did not last long enough to harm the battery.
> Anyone else had this problem? Do I need a new voltage regulator? I plan
to check connections on the battery and such to see if something is loose.
> Ken Carpenter
> N 9XS 914 Mono
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Growzone" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Tail Wheel Steering Springs |
All,
I know of a Europa flyer with the XS style tailwheel who had a couple of the
steering springs break. Have any other flyers had any trouble with this?
IOW, is this fairly common or rare? Any advice appreciated thanks. Tri Gear
owners may pass on this one !
Kingsley
Mono Classic 281 (with XS style tailwheel) in OZ
Still plodding along.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Springs |
Hi,
I didn't have any trouble with the springs, but one of the clips connecting
the cable to the spring opened up. Fortunately I had just finished my
landing roll and it didn't quite let go.
I replaced them with small shackles. There was a tech note about this a
couple of years ago from the factory and I'd recommend doing the same as I
did.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Steering Springs |
I fly on grass field and at 300 hours no problem with tail wheel springs.
Ken Carpenter
N 9XS 914Mono
----- Original Message -----
From: "Growzone" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au>
Subject: Europa-List: Tail Wheel Steering Springs
>
> All,
>
> I know of a Europa flyer with the XS style tailwheel who had a couple of
> the
> steering springs break. Have any other flyers had any trouble with this?
> IOW, is this fairly common or rare? Any advice appreciated thanks. Tri
> Gear
> owners may pass on this one !
>
> Kingsley
> Mono Classic 281 (with XS style tailwheel) in OZ
> Still plodding along.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: over-voltage from alternator |
> I plan to check connections on the battery and such to see if
something is loose.
> Ken Carpenter
>
Don't forget also the "C" lead from the regulator. That's the one the
regulator uses to regulate, not any of the others. Also the wiring
to, and the condition of, the big electrolytic capacitor is a possible
culprit too, if the panel voltmeter is sensitive to a nonsinusoidal AC
component on the DC bus.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
I spent a very long time running a Water Ski Club for the Royal Engineers
Regiment of the British Army...... they had a unique way of dealing with nuts /
bolts....... do it up untill the threads strip, back it off 1/2 a turn, and
weld it !
I kid you not !
Cheers,
Nev.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Popenoe" <cpops(at)verizon.net> |
OK! My little experiment was valid, but I agree that it was the wrong
experiment! I have turned around to becoming completely convinced, after
doing some more thought experiments. Ted has accurately portrayed the
situation, and I hope that we don't have to beat on this any more!
Pops
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Popenoe
Subject: RE: Europa-List: lock nuts
I've been following this thread and haven't been convinced by the arguments.
So, as an curious experimental scientist, I happen to have in my lab a
Skidmore-Wilhelm tensile test device, capable of measuring the tensile load
on a bolt quite accurately. I placed a 1/2-13 bolt in the device and with a
fitting nut, torqued it to 6000 lbf measured tensile force. I then placed
another 1/2" nut on top and torqued it down as a locknut. The tensile force
on the bolt did not change--remained at 6000 lbf. Next, I loosened the
locknut and tightened it to snug condition, and while holding the locknut
fixed, backed off the lower nut to lock the pair. The bolt tensile preload
decreased to 5000 lbf. I repeated the set of experiments again, with the
same result. Q.E.D.! This little experiment confirmed my suspicions that
the locking nut should remain on top. Please tell me if am I doing
something wrong?
Pops
A036 -- on hold at the moment.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Edward
Gladstone
Subject: Europa-List: lock nuts
-->
Message text written by INTERNET:europa-list(at)matronics.com
-->
>
>- - - - - - - - ->
> You suggest the half nut is applied first, to the correct torque,
>then
the
> full nut, also to the correct torque.At this point the half nut is
> just about floating, as the pressure on the zig face of the bolt
> thread is approaching zero.As the half nut is backed off, some of the
> turn will be just taking up the slack in the thread, and this does not
> change
anything.
> But as it is backed off further, it is putting pressure on the zag
> face
of
> the bolt. This must also reduce pressure on the article being held,
> and
the pressure on the full
> nut threads is increased by the same amount.
> What is unclear to me is whether this reduction is significant, as the
> article being held is under less than the correct pressure. The danger
> of having a floating half nut, thus negating any locking
effect,
> - - - - - - - - ->
>
Hi Graham,
When you apply the correct torque to the nut you are actually stretching the
bolt to provide the correct design tension in the bolt ( it is actually
amazing just how much stretch occurs in the bolt - - - try taking a 4 or 5M
bolt of about 2 & 1/2" long, slide a 2" thick wall tube or a stack of
larger nuts or washers over it, finger tighten a nut down on it and measure
the length of the bolt with a vernier (or preferably digital)
caliper. Then tighten the nut with a spanner and measure the length of
the bolt again - - you will be surprised by how much it has stretched !!)
Thus, when you back off the half thickness nut to apply pressure against
the full nut, although you increase the pressure on the zig face of the
full nut, as long as the full nut has not turned, the stretch in the
bolt, and therefore the tension in the bolt will not have changed. The
article will still be held at the correct pressure.
Ted
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk> |
I recently commented on the Skydrive vs the ST Aviation carb heater option.
Here is the link for the ST version. There is a photo showing how it is fitted.
http://www.jabiru.co.uk/IceEliminator.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | over-voltage from alternator |
>Electronics I can help with ( jam nuts are a different story. I am "up-side
>down" ) If you have good electrical connections all around, the regulator
>is the problem.
>
>The connection I would be suspicious of are the ones coming off the
>regulator to the battery. You may be seeing a voltage that is trying to
>compensate for a high resistance current path to the battery.
>Good luck, and let us all know what you do to fix it. Thanks
Ken
you might also check the ground connection on the regulator, if it is
bolted to the firewall and that is where you connected the ground cable,
the composite firewall could have relaxed and lessened the bolt tension
causing contact resistance
Graham to increase.
January 02, 2005 - January 21, 2005
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