Europa-Archive.digest.vol-jh
November 10, 2011 - December 04, 2011
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-jh
November 10, 2011 - December 04, 2011
as per the build book"
Apparently I have "Matco 5 inch discs on the wheels with new seals fitted."
I just popped the cover off the levers to look at the master cylinders and
there are A LOT of very large bubbles in the left hand tube leading out of
the master cylinder.
I have just bought a bleeding kit and some 5.1 and will try to sort it out
tomorrow, I'm just worried there is a leak or something =93 as it was
fine last week but absolutely terrible now..
Do you think a simple bleed from the LH calliper will do the job?
Regards,
-Carl.
From: <duanefamly(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 10, 2011
Subject: Re: Europa Finger Brakes
Describe the type of master cylinder you have as well as the type wheel cyl
inders. There have been a few master cylinders of inferior quality experien
ced by several builders.
Mike Duane
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Nov 10, 2011 12:43 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Europa Finger Brakes
Can I just get a bit of advice from anyone with finger brakes fitted?
Mine seem to be a bit odd. Firstly, if i just pull a single one of them it
will hit the stop, whereas if i pull them both they have more feel and don
't hit the stop quite so much, however they seem to respond better with a b
it of pumping first.
Essentially I'm saying that they appear to be substandard, need pumping to
work properly, and even then pulling just one doesn't seem to work well.
Any thoughts on what could be wrong? An engineer investigated it but could
n't find anything wrong - he checked they were bled and suchlike, he then r
eported it was caused by the fact the master cylinders were not big enough
for the callipers so they need pumping.
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
://forums.matronics.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ic.com
.buildersbooks.com
help.com
onics.com/contribution
/www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
om
onics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 2011
From: Richard Wheelwright <rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa Finger Brakes
=C2-I used Nev's method of the Kart Cylinders and it is perfect.=C2-=0A
=C2-=0ANev you always give the perfect answer to a question " Thanx Nev"
:-)=0A=C2-=0A=0A===================
==0A=0ARichard Wheelwright=0A==============
=======0A=0AFrom: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk>=0ATo: europa
-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Friday, 11 November 2011, 21:35=0ASubject: Re:
Europa-List: Europa Finger Brakes=0A=0A=0AHi,=0AIf you have the Jamar maste
r cylinder, this is what you have to do......=0ALay out some clean paper on
your bench, remove the Jamar unit from the plane and disassemble the unit,
keep all the seals / springs / pushrods etc in the correct order, laid out
on the clean paper.=0ATake a close look at the quality of all the parts...
. this is about as poor as anything could ever be made ! Wrap all the parts
up in the paper and lob it in the bin !=0AYou could invest a lot of time i
n cleaning=C2-the buffing soap [ that was used to put the BS shine on the
outside ] from the inside, and polish the machining marks from the bores,
clean the soap from the tranverse bore between the two cylinders, ease the
diameter and radius the edge of the nylon washers and try to make something
out of it, but from experience you can spend a lot of time that rarely giv
es you something you would want to put in an Aircraft.=0ATwo options.=0A1.
=C2-Fit Matco cylinders, top quality, very expensive but will work. Can s
till be a bear to bleed, but you can use the red [ cherryade] brake fluid t
hat every Aircraft Maintenence Facility has ....=0A2.Use two of the Kart ma
ster cylinders as fitted to the Mono Europa and original Trigear [ foot bra
kes ], you will need to make longer levers [ to get mechanical advantage]
=C2-BUT there are two kinds of seals / O rings around, one sort is suitab
le for Dot 3,[ as supplied for the Mono] which works with the Europa calipe
r,=C2-the other is for the cherryade that works with the Matco caliper. T
rouble is you can't tell the difference by looking at them, if used in the
wrong fluid, they expand / go squishy.=0AEuropa have a stock of these that
they don't know which type they are, so no help there.=0AYou CAN use Silico
ne Dot 5 with both the master cylinders and the Calipers, but it is damn aw
ful stuff, very thick [ so is=C2-a bitch to bleed] and if you get any on
paintwork [ or God forbid unpainted structure] you will never get anything
to really get it off. Only one good place for Silicone, that is where Dolly
Parton / Pamela Anderson has it !=0A=C2-Bleeding the set up with the Kar
t cylinders is a breeze, big [Large Vet's syringe] bit of model fuel tube s
tuffed over the bleed nipple, bung out of the Master cylinder, crack open t
he nipple, squirt the fuid in, have someone peek at the bung hole, when it
comes to the top, job done 5 minutes a side Max. Down side ? As the pads we
ar you need to top up the fluid, but simple as you just need to dribble it
in the bung hole to the bottom of the threads.=0AYou might be able to use t
he Jamar unit as the lever / baseplate and graft the Kart cylinders on to t
hat ? I will have a look tomorrow on the feasability of that.That would sav
e a lot of mucking about.=0ACheers,=0ANev=0A=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-
----=0AFrom: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: europa-list <europa-list@
matronics.com>=0ASent: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:02=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: E
uropa Finger Brakes=0A=0A=0AThanks for the advice, I've just come from the
airfield having done a bit more investigation.=0A=0AAttached is a picture o
f my master cylinder, apparently it's a "New Jamar finger brake controller
all filled with DOT5.1 fluid filled from the wheels as per the build book"
=0AApparently I have "Matco 5 inch discs on the wheels with new seals fitte
d."=0A=0AI just popped the cover off the levers to look at the master cylin
ders and there are A LOT of very large bubbles in the left hand tube leadin
g out of the master cylinder.=0A=0AI have just bought a bleeding kit and so
me 5.1 and will try to sort it out tomorrow, I'm just worried there is a le
ak or something =93 as it was fine last week but absolutely terrible
now..=0A=0ADo you think a simple bleed from the LH calliper will do the job
?=0A=0ARegards,=0A-Carl.=0AFrom: <duanefamly(at)aol.com>=0AReply-To: <europa-l
ist(at)matronics.com>=0ADate: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 23:16:54 -0500 (EST)=0ATo: =0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Finger Brakes=0A
=0ADescribe the type of master cylinder you have as well as the type wheel
cylinders. There have been a few master cylinders of inferior quality exper
ienced by several builders.=0A=0AMike Duane=0A=0A=0A=0A=C2-=0A-----Origin
al Message-----=0AFrom: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: europa-list <e
uropa-list(at)matronics.com>=0ASent: Thu, Nov 10, 2011 12:43 pm=0ASubject: Eur
opa-List: Europa Finger Brakes=0A=0A=0ACan I just get a bit of advice from
anyone with finger brakes fitted?=0A=0AMine seem to be a bit odd.=C2- Fir
stly, if i just pull a single one of them it will hit the stop, whereas if
i pull them both they have more feel and don't hit the stop quite so much,
however they seem to respond better with a bit of pumping first.=0A=0AEssen
tially I'm saying that they appear to be substandard, need pumping to work
properly, and even then pulling just one doesn't seem to work well.=0A=0AAn
y thoughts on what could be wrong?=C2- An engineer investigated it but co
uldn't find anything wrong - he checked they were bled and suchlike, he the
n reported it was caused by the fact the master cylinders were not big enou
gh for the callipers so they need pumping.=0A_blank>www.aeroelectric.com /"
target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com =_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com blan
k>http://www.matronics.com/contribution arget=_blank>http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?Europa-List p://forums.matronics.comblank>http://www.matr
onics.com/contribution =0Aic.comw.buildersbooks.comthelp.comronics
.com/contribution//www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List comronics.
=======
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: EURO02 part supplied wrong
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 11, 2011
On 11 Nov 2011, at 16:35, Jan de Jong wrote:
>
> Rowland,
>
> I'm close behind you (a race of snails?) and went to check my EUR002 screws.
> And I share your problem. Kit 461 was also supplied with bolts instead of screws.
> I'll be interested in your solution.
>
> Regards,
> Jan de Jong
Jan - Mike McClean at Europa read my e-mail posting and is getting the right screws
sent to me on Monday. Good service!
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Europa Finger Brakes
On 11/11/2011 04:57 PM, Carl Meek wrote:
> Attached is a picture of my master cylinder, apparently it's a "New
> Jamar finger brake controller all filled with DOT5.1 fluid filled from
> the wheels as per the build book"
DOT5.1 is not per the book. The book says 5.0. You might think that 5.1
is an upgrade of 5.0, but it is not, it is entirely different stuff.
Apart from that, the Jamar brakes are rubbish. My kit came with the
Jamar cylinders, after spending almost a frustrating week in futile
attempts to bleed them and to get these things working, I tossed them
out and replaced them by Matco cylinders. Bleeding was then a piece of
cake and the brake system now works like a charm. I'm glad I never flew
with the Jamar cylinders but got rid of them just in time.
> I just popped the cover off the levers to look at the master cylinders
> and there are A LOT of very large bubbles in the left hand tube leading
> out of the master cylinder.
I have been there. Forget about getting these bubbles away. I pumped
almost a full can of DOT5.0 through these things but the bubbles never
went away.
Now you have used DOT 5.1 instead of DOT 5.0, you have probably
destroyed the seals. Don't bother fixing them, toss the whole thing out
and replace them by Matco's and fill the system with red aircraft
hydraulic fluid.
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Europa Finger Brakes
Date: Nov 12, 2011
Frans,
Could you please provide the exact part numbers for the MATCO Brake cylinders fitting
the Europa TRI?Aircraft Spruce lists 4 types: MCM-5 and MCM-5A. MCM-4 and
MCM-4A.
Thanks!
Christoph Both
#223
Wolfville, Nova Scotia Canada
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Finger Brakes
On 11/11/2011 04:57 PM, Carl Meek wrote:
> Attached is a picture of my master cylinder, apparently it's a "New
> Jamar finger brake controller all filled with DOT5.1 fluid filled from
> the wheels as per the build book"
DOT5.1 is not per the book. The book says 5.0. You might think that 5.1
is an upgrade of 5.0, but it is not, it is entirely different stuff.
Apart from that, the Jamar brakes are rubbish. My kit came with the
Jamar cylinders, after spending almost a frustrating week in futile
attempts to bleed them and to get these things working, I tossed them
out and replaced them by Matco cylinders. Bleeding was then a piece of
cake and the brake system now works like a charm. I'm glad I never flew
with the Jamar cylinders but got rid of them just in time.
> I just popped the cover off the levers to look at the master cylinders
> and there are A LOT of very large bubbles in the left hand tube leading
> out of the master cylinder.
I have been there. Forget about getting these bubbles away. I pumped
almost a full can of DOT5.0 through these things but the bubbles never
went away.
Now you have used DOT 5.1 instead of DOT 5.0, you have probably
destroyed the seals. Don't bother fixing them, toss the whole thing out
and replace them by Matco's and fill the system with red aircraft
hydraulic fluid.
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Max Cointe" <mcointe(at)free.fr>
Subject: Tie down points
Date: Nov 12, 2011
Hi Bob,
Many thanks for your answer. Could we get a picture ? (thanks to Jeff BB
for
the one he sent but without the speed kit)
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400+ hours
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Bob
Harrison
Envoy=E9 : vendredi 11 novembre 2011 20:13
=C0 : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi! All
I=92m sorry about my standard of message and I have corrected it below,
hopefully those whose Mother Tongue isn=92t English can now understand
it.?
Regards
Bob Harrison
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Harrison
Sent: 11 November 2011 17:33
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi! Max
I have put a long eye bolt through the slab of metal in the outboard end
of
the flap hinge so the eye just protrudes through the large speed kit
fairing
.on each wing. Similarly you could put an eye bolt into the re-enforcing
in
the tail where the old tail WHEEL spring was to be mounted.. I actually
use
the mono tail wheel spring since I need it to winch the aircraft into
the
trailor (. I tell folks it is my arrester hook for landing on my
aircraft
carrier I wish!) However the spring has saved my rudder during countless
bounces on landing and take offs . ................. Suitable eye bolts
can
be sourced at yacht chandlers usually in stainless material.
Regards
Bob Harrison.G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Max Cointe
Sent: 11 November 2011 17:00
Subject: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi there all !
The builder of F-PMLH didn=92t include tie down points and I=92m not
ready to
open the wings to fix a hook. What something invented to hold the plane
on
ground on a windy airfield?
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2011
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: Europa Finger Brakes
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 26 [cn]
The Matco master cylinder is MC-4D.
Good evening
Michel AUVRAY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Tie down points
Date: Nov 12, 2011
Hi! Max.
Unfortunately G-PTAG is in it=92s trailor and impossible to provide a
photo at
present. However I am aiming to fly down to London next Friday (weather
dependent) and I will photo it then . But the construction is simple
...take
a =BC=94stainless eye bolt (if I recall correctly I think it was about
4=94 long
or 5=94 and I cut it down) , drill a hole nearly perpendicular to and
through
the large faces of the block of metal which sits between the outboard
wing
flap hinge brackets so that the eye of the bolt is positioned to just
protrude through the leading edge of the speed kit fairing.(slightly up
from
the lowest point ) You need to do some pretty fine judging for the exact
location .(You will need to cut a small hole in the leading edge of the
fairing so the eye sticks through just far enough to get a piece of tie
down
cord through it when needing to tie the aircraft down.
The length of the eye bolt is adjusted by two nuts fitted to the eye
bolt
one in a position under the block so that another nut can be tightened
down
on top of the block to lock the bolt and lower nut to the block. Check
that
operation of the flap doesn=92t conflict with the finished position of
the
bolt before flying. It is easier to fit the eye bolt with the faring
removed
and so re fit it after experimentation as to how long the eye bolt needs
to
be before locking up.
If you can=92t understand by this description let me know ....but I=92m
guessing
it will be a poor photograph for clarity of purpose. I have no drawings
or
approvals, just plain old common sense .!
Regards
Bob Harrison G_PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Max Cointe
Sent: 12 November 2011 17:46
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi Bob,
Many thanks for your answer. Could we get a picture ? (thanks to Jeff BB
for
the one he sent but without the speed kit)
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400+ hours
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Bob
Harrison
Envoy=E9 : vendredi 11 novembre 2011 20:13
=C0 : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi! All
I=92m sorry about my standard of message and I have corrected it below,
hopefully those whose Mother Tongue isn=92t English can now understand
it.?
Regards
Bob Harrison
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Harrison
Sent: 11 November 2011 17:33
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi! Max
I have put a long eye bolt through the slab of metal in the outboard end
of
the flap hinge so the eye just protrudes through the large speed kit
fairing
.on each wing. Similarly you could put an eye bolt into the re-enforcing
in
the tail where the old tail WHEEL spring was to be mounted.. I actually
use
the mono tail wheel spring since I need it to winch the aircraft into
the
trailor (. I tell folks it is my arrester hook for landing on my
aircraft
carrier I wish!) However the spring has saved my rudder during countless
bounces on landing and take offs . ................. Suitable eye bolts
can
be sourced at yacht chandlers usually in stainless material.
Regards
Bob Harrison.G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Max Cointe
Sent: 11 November 2011 17:00
Subject: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi there all !
The builder of F-PMLH didn=92t include tie down points and I=92m not
ready to
open the wings to fix a hook. What something invented to hold the plane
on
ground on a windy airfield?
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
www.aeroelectric.comwww.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa Finger Brakes
Date: Nov 12, 2011
Christoph
The master cylinders that fit are the Matco MCM-4D. AS do not stock them
but they can be ordered direct from Matco. Europa also supply them (the
last pair I purchased were only just more expensive than Matco)
How to fit them is covered in the Combined Build manual CBM-33T (Matco)
available on the Europa site.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Max Cointe" <mcointe(at)free.fr>
Subject: Tie down points
Date: Nov 13, 2011
Hi Bob,
Many thanks, I think I see how you did it. An even poor picture will be
welcome anyhow, no hurry I won=92t make it before next maintenance
operation.
Have a good flight!
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Bob
Harrison
Envoy=E9 : samedi 12 novembre 2011 22:31
=C0 : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi! Max.
Unfortunately G-PTAG is in it=92s trailor and impossible to provide a
photo at
present. However I am aiming to fly down to London next Friday (weather
dependent) and I will photo it then . But the construction is simple
...take
a =BC=94stainless eye bolt (if I recall correctly I think it was about
4=94 long
or 5=94 and I cut it down) , drill a hole nearly perpendicular to and
through
the large faces of the block of metal which sits between the outboard
wing
flap hinge brackets so that the eye of the bolt is positioned to just
protrude through the leading edge of the speed kit fairing.(slightly up
from
the lowest point ) You need to do some pretty fine judging for the exact
location .(You will need to cut a small hole in the leading edge of the
fairing so the eye sticks through just far enough to get a piece of tie
down
cord through it when needing to tie the aircraft down.
The length of the eye bolt is adjusted by two nuts fitted to the eye
bolt
one in a position under the block so that another nut can be tightened
down
on top of the block to lock the bolt and lower nut to the block. Check
that
operation of the flap doesn=92t conflict with the finished position of
the
bolt before flying. It is easier to fit the eye bolt with the faring
removed
and so re fit it after experimentation as to how long the eye bolt needs
to
be before locking up.
If you can=92t understand by this description let me know ....but I=92m
guessing
it will be a poor photograph for clarity of purpose. I have no drawings
or
approvals, just plain old common sense .!
Regards
Bob Harrison G_PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Max Cointe
Sent: 12 November 2011 17:46
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi Bob,
Many thanks for your answer. Could we get a picture ? (thanks to Jeff BB
for
the one he sent but without the speed kit)
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400+ hours
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Bob
Harrison
Envoy=E9 : vendredi 11 novembre 2011 20:13
=C0 : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi! All
I=92m sorry about my standard of message and I have corrected it below,
hopefully those whose Mother Tongue isn=92t English can now understand
it.?
Regards
Bob Harrison
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Harrison
Sent: 11 November 2011 17:33
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi! Max
I have put a long eye bolt through the slab of metal in the outboard end
of
the flap hinge so the eye just protrudes through the large speed kit
fairing
.on each wing. Similarly you could put an eye bolt into the re-enforcing
in
the tail where the old tail WHEEL spring was to be mounted.. I actually
use
the mono tail wheel spring since I need it to winch the aircraft into
the
trailor (. I tell folks it is my arrester hook for landing on my
aircraft
carrier I wish!) However the spring has saved my rudder during countless
bounces on landing and take offs . ................. Suitable eye bolts
can
be sourced at yacht chandlers usually in stainless material.
Regards
Bob Harrison.G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Max Cointe
Sent: 11 November 2011 17:00
Subject: Europa-List: Tie down points
Hi there all !
The builder of F-PMLH didn=92t include tie down points and I=92m not
ready to
open the wings to fix a hook. What something invented to hold the plane
on
ground on a windy airfield?
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
www.aeroelectric.comwww.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published
in December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
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Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
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Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
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is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
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I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
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about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Anyone considered a ULPOWER UL260i engine
From: "Galaxy UL Power Engines" <mark(at)galaxymicrolights.co.uk>
Date: Nov 13, 2011
Here in the UK Galaxy UL Engines is working with a customer at the moment to fit
a UL260iS 107hp engine to a Europa Swiss Taildragger in place of a Subaru.
Work is in progress, engine mout sorted.
We hope to have the Basic demonstrated instalation ready for the Flying Show
at NEC over the weekend of 26 -27 Nov.
Regards
Mark Jones
Galaxy UL Engines
UK UL Power Agent.
07841 614577
--------
"If a Test Pilot tells you something thats so bloody complicated you don't
understand it, then its all Balls" R,J Mitchell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=357736#357736
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2011
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Main leg fairing dimensions
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 26 [cn]
SGVsbG8gYWxsLA0KV2UgdHJhbnNmb3JtIHRoZSBLaXQgTrAgOTggZnJvbSBtb25vIHRvIHRocmVl
IGdlYXIgDQpEb2VzIGFueW9uZSBnaXZlIG1lIHRoZSBsZWcgZmFpcmluZyBkaW1lbnNpb25zIGFu
ZCBmaXhhdGlvbiB0eXBlIG9uIHRoZSBmdXNlbGFnZSBhbmQgb24gdGhlIHdoZWVsLg0KDQpBbmQg
cGljdHVyZXMgaWYgaXQgaXMgcG9zc2libGUgDQpNYW55IHRoYW5rcw0KDQpNaWNoZWwgQVVWUkFZ
DQpCdWlsZGVyIDE0NQ0K
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ULPower 260i in Europa
From: "Galaxy UL Power Engines" <mark(at)galaxymicrolights.co.uk>
Date: Nov 13, 2011
Hi Martin. Where are you based? What Country?
Here in the UK Galaxy UL Engines is working with a customer at the moment to fit
a UL260iS 107hp engine to a Europa Swiss Taildragger in place of a Subaru. Work
is in progress, engine mout sorted.
We hope to have the Basic demonstrated instalation ready for the Flying Show at
NEC over the weekend of 26 -27 Nov.
Regards
Mark Jones
Galaxy UL Engines
UK UL Power Agent.
07841 614577
--------
"If a Test Pilot tells you something thats so bloody complicated you don't
understand it, then its all Balls" R,J Mitchell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=357737#357737
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Jamar vs Matco Finger Brakes
Date: Nov 14, 2011
Gidday,
As this picture displays, there is one really good use for the Jamar
Finger Brakes. Here it is. Look closely.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Jamar vs matco
Date: Nov 14, 2011
Sorry if you get this twice, but it came back to me without the photo,
so I thought it worth resending.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Jamar vs matco
From: "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2011
While I do not have a Europa (I have a DynAero MCR-4S - don't shoot me) I belong
to this list because of its Rotax 914 experience.
I however do have finger brakes and chose them against foot brakes because of weight
considerations and simplicity. If it is of interest and help I am happy
to provide photographs of my installation which may be of assistance. The DynAero
finger brakes are lighter than the Matco ones picture already published
and have a locking mechanism which holds them on for parking and run-ups tests.
I am happy with my choice.
Let me know - happy to help
Cheers Peter
Peter Armstrong
Auckland, New Zealand
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=357794#357794
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: ULPower 260i in Europa
From: "smartieb" <smartieb(at)bigpond.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2011
Hi Malcolm,
I am in Brisbane, Australia and have had previous correspondence with Ian Rickard
and cc'd yourself.
Ian does have a CAD drawing of my proposed engine mount which I have yet to carry
out an FEA analysis on. The date of fitting my engine could still be at least
a year away.
Let me know if you want to find out any more details. I would be very interested
to see how your conversion works out. Ian did send an early photo of your 260i
mount adapter for the Europa.
Regards
Martin Benson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=357795#357795
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Subject: "Flight into known icing conditions prohibited"
Date: Nov 14, 2011
- is one of the placards on my panel, next to "VFR operations
only". We all have heard about the danger of icing, and we understand why
it can be fatal.
Today I ran the engine on idle for 3-4 minutes on the ground (prior to
squirting engine conservation oil into the carbs until stopping, for winter
storage). It was a foggy day, air temperature just around freezing. A
soft, very thin layer of frost formed on the wings and fuselage when pulling
the aircraft out of hangar. I had not, however, expected to see the rapid
build-up of ice on the propeller during this very short run - see the
attached two photos. There was no ice on the front face of the blades, but
on the sharp leading edge there was a 4 mm buildup of clear, very hard and
difficult to remove ice (gradually diminishing towards the blade root).
This is seen as a white stripe along the leading edge on the photos. Ice
had also begun to build up on the blade back face and on the tip edge.
One can only imagine the loss of propeller efficiency and risk of vibration
if flying through clouds or fog around/below the freezing point. I did not
need this demonstration to heed the placard's warning, but it does bring the
message home.
Fly safely!
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: brake fluid
Date: Nov 14, 2011
All the recent postings about appropriate fluids for the tri-gear finger-brakes
has prompted me to think about what is OK for the monowheel brake system. I'm
using the standard Europa parts. My journal shows that, when fitting it, I cleaned
up & lubricated my master cylinder with Castrol Girling Universal SAE J1703
(which appears to be DOT3), and later I bought a can of DOT5.1 with which
to fill the system (when I get that far).
I note Neville's enthusiasm for the red aircraft grade brake fluid (what's the
proper name for that? Can I get it from LAS, for instance?) but also that Europa-supplied
seals may be an unknown quantity with respect to what fluid they like.
Is there any way (other than soaking them in a sample of fluid) to determine what
seals I've got in my master cylinder and in my brake calipers?
If the seals held in stock by Europa are not identifiable, where else could one
get seals properly identified as to type of fluid for (a) the monowheel master
cylinder and (b) the monowheel calipers?
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Collings" <rcollings(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Europa Finger Brakes
Date: Nov 14, 2011
Hi I don't know what seal are fitted in your brake system so to be safe
you must use DOT5 fluid no other.
To help with bleeding the system first apply the brake on the wheel you
are not attempting to bleed and tie the brake finger leaver in the on
position. Now bleed the other brake circuit from the wheel cylinder by
using one of the std pressure bleeding kit's [Airworld 300981 worked for
me] that way you will drive the air up and out of the system at the
header tank. Once you are clear of air on the first circuit lock the
bleed nipple shut and repeat the same procedure on the other circuit.
Good luck Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Meek
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Finger Brakes
Thanks for the advice, I've just come from the airfield having done a
bit more investigation.
Attached is a picture of my master cylinder, apparently it's a "New
Jamar finger brake controller all filled with DOT5.1 fluid filled from
the wheels as per the build book"
Apparently I have "Matco 5 inch discs on the wheels with new seals
fitted."
I just popped the cover off the levers to look at the master cylinders
and there are A LOT of very large bubbles in the left hand tube leading
out of the master cylinder.
I have just bought a bleeding kit and some 5.1 and will try to sort it
out tomorrow, I'm just worried there is a leak or something - as it was
fine last week but absolutely terrible now..
Do you think a simple bleed from the LH calliper will do the job?
Regards,
-Carl.
From: <duanefamly(at)aol.com>
Reply-To:
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 23:16:54 -0500 (EST)
To:
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa Finger Brakes
Describe the type of master cylinder you have as well as the type
wheel cylinders. There have been a few master cylinders of inferior
quality experienced by several builders.
Mike Duane
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>
To: europa-list
Sent: Thu, Nov 10, 2011 12:43 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Europa Finger Brakes
Can I just get a bit of advice from anyone with finger brakes fitted?
Mine seem to be a bit odd. Firstly, if i just pull a single one of
them it will hit the stop, whereas if i pull them both they have more
feel and don't hit the stop quite so much, however they seem to respond
better with a bit of pumping first.
Essentially I'm saying that they appear to be substandard, need
pumping to work properly, and even then pulling just one doesn't seem to
work well.
Any thoughts on what could be wrong? An engineer investigated it but
couldn't find anything wrong - he checked they were bled and suchlike,
he then reported it was caused by the fact the master cylinders were not
big enough for the callipers so they need pumping.
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
/" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ic.com
w.buildersbooks.com
thelp.com
ronics.com/contribution
//www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
com
ronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk>
Subject: brake fluid
Date: Nov 14, 2011
Rowland,
The original name for the red stuff was DTD585. I think the latest stuff
has an H on the end. LAS do stock it.
When I had a Mono setup I used exactly what the manual said to use (dot 3 or
4)and had no problems.
Regards
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson
Sent: 14 November 2011 22:23
Subject: Europa-List: brake fluid
-->
All the recent postings about appropriate fluids for the tri-gear
finger-brakes has prompted me to think about what is OK for the monowheel
brake system. I'm using the standard Europa parts. My journal shows that,
when fitting it, I cleaned up & lubricated my master cylinder with Castrol
Girling Universal SAE J1703 (which appears to be DOT3), and later I bought a
can of DOT5.1 with which to fill the system (when I get that far).
I note Neville's enthusiasm for the red aircraft grade brake fluid (what's
the proper name for that? Can I get it from LAS, for instance?) but also
that Europa-supplied seals may be an unknown quantity with respect to what
fluid they like.
Is there any way (other than soaking them in a sample of fluid) to determine
what seals I've got in my master cylinder and in my brake calipers?
If the seals held in stock by Europa are not identifiable, where else could
one get seals properly identified as to type of fluid for (a) the monowheel
master cylinder and (b) the monowheel calipers?
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: "Flight into known icing conditions prohibited"
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 14, 2011
A number years ago I was flying along the Alaska coast on a job in a Hughes 500.
The fog keep getting lower and I had to fly lower to the ground. Then the
whole helicopter started to vibrate through the controls to the point I had to
make a landing quickly. Once on the ground I shut the engine off and there was
about 1/4 -3/8 of inch of ice along the leading edge and under it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=357876#357876
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Main leg fairing dimensions
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 14, 2011
I took these pictures of my fairings. Hope they help
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=357881#357881
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/land_gear_coverings_004_665.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/land_gear_coverings_003_618.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/land_gear_coverings_002_171.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/land_gear_coverings_001_124.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: A hat tip to the Brits
Date: Nov 14, 2011
> One of the great puzzles of the industrial revolution is why it
> began in England. Why not France, or Germany? Many reasons have been
> offered. Britain had plentiful supplies of coal, for instance. It
> had a good patent system in place. It had relatively high labor
> costs, which encouraged the search for labor-saving innovations. In
> an article published earlier this year, however, the economists Ralf
> Meisenzahl and Joel Mokyr focus on a different explanation: the role
> of Britain=92s human-capital advantage=97in particular, on a group
they
> call =93tweakers.=94 They believe that Britain dominated the
industrial
> revolution because it had a far larger population of skilled
> engineers and artisans than its competitors: resourceful and
> creative men who took the signature inventions of the industrial age
> and tweaked them=97refined and perfected them, and made them work.
> In 1779, Samuel Crompton, a retiring genius from Lancashire,
> invented the spinning mule, which made possible the mechanization of
> cotton manufacture. Yet England=92s real advantage was that it had
> Henry Stones, of Horwich, who added metal rollers to the mule; and
> James Hargreaves, of Tottington, who figured out how to smooth the
> acceleration and deceleration of the spinning wheel; and William
> Kelly, of Glasgow, who worked out how to add water power to the draw
> stroke; and John Kennedy, of Manchester, who adapted the wheel to
> turn out fine counts; and, finally, Richard Roberts, also of
> Manchester, a master of precision machine tooling=97and the tweaker=92s
> tweaker. He created the =93automatic=94 spinning mule: an exacting,
high-
> speed, reliable rethinking of Crompton=92s original creation. Such
> men, the economists argue, provided the =93micro inventions necessary
> to make macro inventions highly productive and remunerative.=94 Then
> there was Ivan Shaw...
http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2011/11/14/111114fa_fact_gladwell
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's Your Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers,
You might have wondered at some pointd, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here
are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides
for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List.
It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest
performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine,
List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for over 21 years (yeah, I really
said *21* years) worth of on line archive data available for instant search
and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining
the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List
Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
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It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these aspects of Matronics List services.
Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the
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List Contribution Web Site:
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or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
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Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: brake fluid
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk>
Date: Nov 15, 2011
Hi Rowland,
Master cylinders supplied with the Mono Kit, and the Europa caliper are set
up to use Dot 3 and Dot 4 fluid, no reason to try anything else.
Silicone Dot 5 will work, but no good reason to use that over 3 / 4.
Cherryade will attack those seals, no idea what 5.1 will do ?
The Matco calipers, as supplied in the Trigear Kit, are set up for cherryad
e.
The ''footbrake'' Trigear Kit will have the standard ''Monowheel spec' mast
er cylinders'' and a replacement set of seals and washers to convert the ma
ster cylinders to be used with the Matco calipers [ which are set up for ch
erryade ].
The stock of these seals at Europa are loose and unmarked, no one knows whi
ch ones they are?
My suggestion to them to dispose of the seals, and start again went unheede
d.
So in short Rowland, bin the 5.1, fill with 3 / 4 when you are ready..
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:27
Subject: Europa-List: brake fluid
All the recent postings about appropriate fluids for the tri-gear finger-br
akes
as prompted me to think about what is OK for the monowheel brake system. I'
m
sing the standard Europa parts. My journal shows that, when fitting it, I
leaned up & lubricated my master cylinder with Castrol Girling Universal SA
E
1703 (which appears to be DOT3), and later I bought a can of DOT5.1 with wh
ich
o fill the system (when I get that far).
I note Neville's enthusiasm for the red aircraft grade brake fluid (what's
the
roper name for that? Can I get it from LAS, for instance?) but also that
uropa-supplied seals may be an unknown quantity with respect to what fluid
they
ike.
Is there any way (other than soaking them in a sample of fluid) to determin
e
hat seals I've got in my master cylinder and in my brake calipers?
If the seals held in stock by Europa are not identifiable, where else could
one
et seals properly identified as to type of fluid for (a) the monowheel mast
er
ylinder and (b) the monowheel calipers?
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
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-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Subject: Re: "Flight into known icing conditions prohibited"
Date: Nov 15, 2011
Here is another photo that I should have attached yesterday - says more than
a thousand words.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The
Winner(
Date: Nov 15, 2011
Dear Frans, Remi, Brian and all who were
interested
Thank you for your Very interesting messages (they
are below).
During last three days my engine (912S) has got
his 250 hrs service (in fact 50 hrs service only)
+ max and full care inspection because of the
topic: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle.
Before that (after my hazard and when changing
sparks only) I had flown flawlessly 2 hrs 25
minutes w/o any problems and The Engine has
performed great.
The inspection and service was completed w the
best pros in Finland available (I was there also,
just looking behind their shoulders, do not
worry).
1) Engine is like a new one and between The
Factory Limits and Measurements excluding
following
2) Right carburrettor, 2nd float, "some" material
has "obviously" separated, gone and disappearred
somewhere.
- pls notice: these floats have checked last
spring when completed 200 hrs engine service. They
looked like ok then but did not checked very
carefully, of course.
- that little "separated" part could be also a
malfunction of production, maybe it has never been
there
3) That blue colored spark plug was really totally
dead (it was NGK R DCPR8E)
What ideas we got?
A) if some part of the float separated during the
flight it could have blocked partially fuel flow.
After case it could have gone through the system
and no problems anymore. If that is so, changeing
sparks meaned nothing - a new start up the engine
meaned.
If that is so, please check your floats. For your
information, there was a Service Bulletin about 15
years ago about those floats. I have not checked
it so far (and that should be nothing in my case
[engine 2006] but who ever knows).
B) this case is a bit embarrassing but I am brave
enough to report it to you (could be worth of it
for some of you).
We tried the engine with that broken spark. As
Remi writed A single misfiring spark plug on one
cylinder cannot cause the high level of vibration
I have experienced.
Confirmed. It cannot. I tried. But, what if (after
checking the mags) I took off with one magneto
only! And loosed one spark just after take-off.
Then I had only three sparks!
I have to say - I tried it today - and the The
Vibras were very known. I have been there. If that
is really so, I flied about one hour with three
sparks only (there was a heavy head wind but I
still was wondering where all the power has gone).
That is also the well known CS prop syndrom: The
RPMs are fixed: it is not so obvious to see engine
limitations.
***
What can I say:
* check out your floats in the carburrettor
chambers (well, Rotax owners at least)
** double check before take-off you have selected
dual magnetos: if you loose one spark w two
magnetos you will not notice but if you loose one
spark with one magneto you will surely notice. And
that will vibra you!
I have a Cessna type key operated magneto. It is
not so easy to see what magneto(s) is (are) valid:
A, B or Both. If you are building a plane, have
two separate switches. They are easy to confirm;
both upp (and a secure latch down)!
I took off after sunset and was a bit hurry and
maybe also more all less nervous. That is a
typical start upp for a chain which will easily
lead up to the accident.
In my case, what about loosing 1/4 spark during
take-off - that was a very short grass strip.
*** if you have engine problems during a flight
try always magnetos. That is what you have learnt
when flying your PPL. I did not by purposely but
I was (maybe) wrong.
_____________________
Trying to be a better pilot. A flight today was a
last one I think until a year or even more has
gone and the new season 2012 will begin...
_____________________
The Competition has got The Winners - there are
three of them.
I will publish The Names of The Winners ( I assume
I am free to do that ) very soon.
Cheers, Raimo Toivio
Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417
Updated flight hours /landings: 258,15 /466
37500 Lempaala
FINLAND
p +358-3-3753 777
f +358-3-3753 100
toivio(at)fly.to
www.rwm.fi
-----Alkuperinen viesti-----
From: Brian Davies
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 2:20 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Heavy In-flight
Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The Winner(
Following on from Remi's post, it might be worth
following the recent blog
on the Rotax Owners website. A Rotax 912 owner
suffered a partial fuel
blockage to one carb that only showed itself under
high power conditions-
and then only intermittently. In your case, if
you have a partial fuel flow
problem to one carb, reducing fuel flow by
changing power settings could
make the symptoms disappear.
Worth checking?
Regards
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Remi Guerner
Sent: 19 October 2011 10:02
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Heavy In-flight
Vibration Riddle /The Solution
/The Winner(
-->
Hi Raimo,
As an engineer who has been working two decades
for a spark plug company, I
want to add a few thoughts about your engine
problem:
A misfiring spark plug, cannot cause detonation.
A single misfiring spark plug on one cylinder
cannot cause the high level of
vibration you have experienced.
There are only two cases where a spark plug can
cause detonation: the first
one is if you are using a spark plug with a too
hot heat rating. In this
case, the nose core and the center electrode of
the spark plug becomes red
hot and ignite the fuel mixture even without a
spark. The second case is
when the spark plug is not torqued enough, becomes
loose so that the heat
transfer from the shell to the cylinder head is
limited, causing the spark
plug to become very hot. Both cases will cause
preignition and possible
detonation.
I assume you were using the right spark plug type
and that your blue spark
plug was found to be tighten correctly. So in my
opinion, the very hot blue
spark plug you got was not the cause but the
consequence of another
phenomenon, probably preignition and/or
detonation, caused by something
else.
The two main causes of detonation are: a too lean
mixture and a too low
octane fuel. This is were I would direct my
investigation.
Preignition and detonation may seriously damage
all combustion chamber parts
such as piston, rings, and valves.
After such a problem I would ground the aircraft
until the root cause is
found, and I would carefully check the above parts
for damage. Before
removing the cylinder, I would perform a
compression check and a boroscope
inspection of the combustion chamber.
Hope that helps.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
On 10/18/2011 03:58 PM, Raimo Toivio wrote:
> I have earlier forgot to mention one thing: when
> I tried to increase
> power by moving a power lever forward, I got
> significantly less power!
This is a weird thing. Maybe the carb slide was
stuck after all, so
opening the throttle further would result in a
leaner mixture. A leaner
mixture burns hotter and slower. Maybe that caused
the spark plug to fail.
Another option is that you had a hidden problem:
One spark plug lead
cross coupled from another cylinder (so it was
firing when the piston
was at one of its lower positions), maybe due to a
short circuit between
two spark plug cables. The interesting thing is
that nothing bad happens
as long as the correct spark plug fires, because
for the one with the
wrong timing there is nothing left to ignite and
it sparks into a
non-combustible void. But then as soon as the
correct plug fails, the
mixture will be ignited by the remaining spark
plug which fires at the
wrong time, and the burning mixture works against
the up-moving piston.
This will also heat the spark plugs and cause a
hell of a vibration.
> The spark plug head was blue, you remember?
Precisely.
> I think it has been very hot. Maybe because it
> was totally short
> circuited.
No, you can't get it hot by short circuiting it.
Ignition has a very
high voltage but low amperage. Total energy is
very low, way to low to
even warm the plug.
> Also, I assume the coils are somehow connected
> together. I mean, a
> missfiring in one spark and in one cylinder,
> could it also disturb
> another one (spark /cylinder) ??? If so, that
> means more vibra.
I think you really have to carefully check the
whole ignition and carbs.
I wouldn't fly it anymore until this is done. I
know it runs ok now, but
maybe there was a reason why the spark plug
failed, and if this reason
still exists it will happen again.
As far as I can tell, the whole situation is not
what you would get with
just a faulty spark plug.
> Anyway - this is quite an unusual think to
> happen.
Sure it is. Therefore, dig to the root of it
before flying it again.
Frans
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355494#355494
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co>
Subject: Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The
Winner(
Date: Nov 15, 2011
Brave man to fess up
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Raimo Toivio
Sent: 15 November, 2011 14:12
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution
/The Winner(
Dear Frans, Remi, Brian and all who were
interested
Thank you for your Very interesting messages (they
are below).
During last three days my engine (912S) has got
his 250 hrs service (in fact 50 hrs service only)
+ max and full care inspection because of the
topic: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle.
Before that (after my hazard and when changing
sparks only) I had flown flawlessly 2 hrs 25
minutes w/o any problems and The Engine has
performed great.
The inspection and service was completed w the
best pros in Finland available (I was there also,
just looking behind their shoulders, do not
worry).
1) Engine is like a new one and between The
Factory Limits and Measurements excluding
following
2) Right carburrettor, 2nd float, "some" material
has "obviously" separated, gone and disappearred
somewhere.
- pls notice: these floats have checked last
spring when completed 200 hrs engine service. They
looked like ok then but did not checked very
carefully, of course.
- that little "separated" part could be also a
malfunction of production, maybe it has never been
there
3) That blue colored spark plug was really totally
dead (it was NGK R DCPR8E)
What ideas we got?
A) if some part of the float separated during the
flight it could have blocked partially fuel flow.
After case it could have gone through the system
and no problems anymore. If that is so, changeing
sparks meaned nothing - a new start up the engine
meaned.
If that is so, please check your floats. For your
information, there was a Service Bulletin about 15
years ago about those floats. I have not checked
it so far (and that should be nothing in my case
[engine 2006] but who ever knows).
B) this case is a bit embarrassing but I am brave
enough to report it to you (could be worth of it
for some of you).
We tried the engine with that broken spark. As
Remi writed A single misfiring spark plug on one
cylinder cannot cause the high level of vibration
I have experienced.
Confirmed. It cannot. I tried. But, what if (after
checking the mags) I took off with one magneto
only! And loosed one spark just after take-off.
Then I had only three sparks!
I have to say - I tried it today - and the The
Vibras were very known. I have been there. If that
is really so, I flied about one hour with three
sparks only (there was a heavy head wind but I
still was wondering where all the power has gone).
That is also the well known CS prop syndrom: The
RPMs are fixed: it is not so obvious to see engine
limitations.
***
What can I say:
* check out your floats in the carburrettor
chambers (well, Rotax owners at least)
** double check before take-off you have selected
dual magnetos: if you loose one spark w two
magnetos you will not notice but if you loose one
spark with one magneto you will surely notice. And
that will vibra you!
I have a Cessna type key operated magneto. It is
not so easy to see what magneto(s) is (are) valid:
A, B or Both. If you are building a plane, have
two separate switches. They are easy to confirm;
both upp (and a secure latch down)!
I took off after sunset and was a bit hurry and
maybe also more all less nervous. That is a
typical start upp for a chain which will easily
lead up to the accident.
In my case, what about loosing 1/4 spark during
take-off - that was a very short grass strip.
*** if you have engine problems during a flight
try always magnetos. That is what you have learnt
when flying your PPL. I did not by purposely but
I was (maybe) wrong.
_____________________
Trying to be a better pilot. A flight today was a
last one I think until a year or even more has
gone and the new season 2012 will begin...
_____________________
The Competition has got The Winners - there are
three of them.
I will publish The Names of The Winners ( I assume
I am free to do that ) very soon.
Cheers, Raimo Toivio
Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417
Updated flight hours /landings: 258,15 /466
37500 Lempaala
FINLAND
p +358-3-3753 777
f +358-3-3753 100
toivio(at)fly.to
www.rwm.fi
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 15, 2011
Hey Folks,
Just wanted to say I fixed my low voltage problem. It turned out to be the regulator.
I checked all connections having anything to do with the charging system,(most
anyway). Then having a spare in my cross country box, I put it in and
ran it and all is well again. Like I said, I have about 125 hours on it. I MAY
have shortened it's life one day during shutdown when I turned off the master
before the engine, not sure. The battery was actually 2 and half years old. The
Odessey literature states only a two year warranty on the battery. Thanks for
all your help. This once more proves the great worth of this forum. Need to
make my contribution to Matt.
Troy Maynor
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358053#358053
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Support The Lists...
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. There
are some very nice incentive gifts to choose from as well! Your Contributions
alone keep these services up and running.
Please make your Contribution today at:
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Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cheap fuel
From: "John Price" <nicolaprice(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Date: Nov 17, 2011
Just a quick note that Rochester now sell unleaded Avgas at 1.79/ litre inclusive
of VAT.
This is not mogas but 91UL Avgas.
If you want any more information just give them a call.
John.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358270#358270
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt though Wing flap hinge
block(Trigear only)
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Hi! Herewith photo of the tie down idea on G-PTAG
Regards
Bob Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike only)
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Hi! Herewith a photo of the tie down location on the wing/flap hinge block
on G-PTAG .
Regards
Bob Harrison.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2011
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt though Wing flap
hinge block(Trigear only)
Bob, I don't see a photo, only a data file
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 11/18/2011 12:59 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
> Hi! Herewith photo of the tie down idea on G-PTAG
>
> Regards
>
> Bob Harrison
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt though Wing flap
hinge block(Trigear only)
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Hi! Jeff
That's why my second name is Jurassic! My damn computer is Toshiba 64 bit
on Windows 7. No doubt there will be numerous folks with the same problem.
I know Ivor Phillips and Peter Grant may convert them and re-post them again
for me, please........?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff B
Sent: 18 November 2011 19:08
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt though Wing
flap hinge block(Trigear only)
Bob, I don't see a photo, only a data file
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 11/18/2011 12:59 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
> Hi! Herewith photo of the tie down idea on G-PTAG
>
> Regards
>
> Bob Harrison
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Subject: Re: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt though Wing flap
hinge block(Trigear only)
From: PHILLIPS I <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Hopefully it should show up now.
regards
Ivor
On 18 November 2011 19:38, Bob Harrison wrote:
>
> Hi! Jeff
> That's why my second name is Jurassic! My damn computer is Toshiba 64 bit
> on Windows 7. No doubt there will be numerous folks with the same problem.
> I know Ivor Phillips and Peter Grant may convert them and re-post them
> again
> for me, please........?
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff B
> Sent: 18 November 2011 19:08
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt though Wing
> flap hinge block(Trigear only)
>
>
> Bob, I don't see a photo, only a data file
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
> On 11/18/2011 12:59 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
> > Hi! Herewith photo of the tie down idea on G-PTAG
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Bob Harrison
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Hi Troy,
I did not see anything in your description to suggest battery malfunction.
It did sound exactly like a failure of the charging system. Sounds like your
2.5 year old battery performed admirably in keeping you going by itself
when the regulator failed.
The approriate diagnostic test is to check the battery voltage (at the
battery) while the engine is running. If it is not > 13.5V, the charging system
is belly up.
Cheers,
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358405#358405
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 18, 2011
try changing the name of the downloaded file from .dat to .jpg
Cheers,
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358406#358406
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2011
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt though Wing flap
hinge block(Trigear only)
Perfect!
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 11/18/2011 3:54 PM, PHILLIPS I wrote:
> Hopefully it should show up now.
> regards
> Ivor
>
> On 18 November 2011 19:38, Bob Harrison > wrote:
>
> >
>
> Hi! Jeff
> That's why my second name is Jurassic! My damn computer is Toshiba
> 64 bit
> on Windows 7. No doubt there will be numerous folks with the same
> problem.
> I know Ivor Phillips and Peter Grant may convert them and re-post
> them again
> for me, please........?
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Jeff B
> Sent: 18 November 2011 19:08
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tie down attachment with an eye bolt
> though Wing
> flap hinge block(Trigear only)
>
> >
>
> Bob, I don't see a photo, only a data file
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
> On 11/18/2011 12:59 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
> > Hi! Herewith photo of the tie down idea on G-PTAG
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Bob Harrison
> >
>
>
> ==========
> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> le, List Admin.
> ==========
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low Voltage
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Ira,
Yes the battery performed as it should. The only charging was in the hangar with
the Battery Tender Plus. You are correct about reading battery voltage. My monitor
was checking it as I flew along but I did not check it at the battery.
Troy
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358411#358411
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: broken tap
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum,
I've broken the tap.
I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish,
but it was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing
arm to which brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main
wheel would attach.
Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a
tap.
I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the
broken tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd
end up having to use a larger bolt.
One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap
which is proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the
bracket, and drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing
partially-plugged hole.
On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for
extracting the broken tap?
Any suggestions?...anyone?
Fred
A194
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2011
From: Lance Sandford <sandford(at)melbpc.org.au>
Subject: Re: broken tap
Fred
Your not the first and wont be the last.
If there is enough of the tap protruding fron the swing arm you can
maybe cut a screwdriver slot using a 1 cutting wheel with a Dremel or
similar tool.
Sometimes you can tap it out, ( no pun intended) using a punch against
the flutes, enough to get a grip with something more substantial.
Good Luck
Lance Sandford in Oz
>
> Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
>
> While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum,
> I've broken the tap.
>
> I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish,
> but it was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing
> arm to which brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main
> wheel would attach.
>
> Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a
> tap.
>
> I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the
> broken tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd
> end up having to use a larger bolt.
>
> One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap
> which is proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the
> bracket, and drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing
> partially-plugged hole.
>
> On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for
> extracting the broken tap?
>
> Any suggestions?...anyone?
>
> Fred
> A194
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: broken tap
Date: Nov 19, 2011
One method I have used successfully is to use a very sharp punch (the kind
of thing you use to put dents in metal before you drill a hole) and hammer
and "unscrew" the tap by tapping the punch with a hammer in one of the
flutes in the side of the tap
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 12:15 PM
Subject: Europa-List: broken tap
Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum,
I've broken the tap.
I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish,
but it was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing
arm to which brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main
wheel would attach.
Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a
tap.
I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the
broken tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd
end up having to use a larger bolt.
One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap
which is proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the
bracket, and drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing
partially-plugged hole.
On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for
extracting the broken tap?
Any suggestions?...anyone?
Fred
A194
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: broken tap
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Nov 18, 2011
Hi Fred
A few ideas:
**EDM Do a Google search on EDM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_discharge_machining
You would have to bring the piece to someone with a large enough machine to accomodate
the part
**You can go after the part with a hole saw (center hollow) and take out a plug
of metal including the broken tap, but only if you promise not to ever break
another tap ;-) you could ream the hole, then put in a precise plug (with a tapped
hole in it) and "get it stuck" with 638 Locktight, that is if it is in an
area you are OK with making a larger hole in. Warm the holy part (not more than
spit sizzle) and cool the plug till the fit is a few thousands between, apply
638 and you will have one stuck plug! When it gets stuck half way, you will
have to hole saw out the plug for the first hole saw hole!
**I am not sure where the hole is, but did you ever see Pauls Swiss cheese swing
arm? Perhaps you can make yours into a piece of Swiss cheese with a hole where
the broken tap is?
**I remember seeing tap removers for two and three flute taps, they have prongs
to fit down the flutes. Perhaps have a look in McMaster, MSC and do a Google
search for broken tap removers. Search Google for procedure for removing broken
taps in aluminium. Now you will probably be breaking your promise, but on purpose
break off another tap like you already did in a sample piece and try removing
or plugging first. As far as removing stuck stuff, like Craig mentioned
you can "beat it" if that doesn't work, "beat" it and "heat" it and then "beat"
it. Watch out heating, i don't know what type of aluminium it is. I think if
you stay under 300F it's probably OK but first try ~ spit sizzle temp (~212F).
Of course you probably have a beautiful paint job on it! If thats the case,
go under paint get hurt temp.
**Bring the piece to a machine shop and I think a nice milling machine and a nice
carbide cutter may get the job done?
**For the future, unless it is a fitting that needs max. strength, drill hole over-sized
for a 60% fit instead of 75%, I like Tap Magic for aluminium and use
a very sharp tap, I like gun taps (no 1/2 turn in and 1/4 out needed), you can
still get bottoming taps.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358433#358433
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: broken tap
Date: Nov 18, 2011
On Nov 18, 2011, at 7:45 PM, rparigoris wrote:
>
> **I remember seeing tap removers for two and three flute taps, they
> have prongs to fit down the flutes. Perhaps have a look in McMaster,
Ron...excellent suggestion...I find that "4 finger" extractors
exist...and hopefully, I can find one locally which I can borrow!
Thanks much...Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: The Value of a Forum...
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
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Please make a Contribution today at:
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during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively
through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2011
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: broken tap
Fred=0Ayou could try pushing four bits of locking wire down the flutes,twis
t them =0Atogether and trying to work it out. Best approach at that stage i
s twisting and =0Areversing a bit at a time. You will need to break off the
bits of swarf from the =0Alast bit of cutting before the tap broke. Warmin
g the aluminum might help, it =0Awill expand more than the steel tap. Good
luck!=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Fred Kle
in =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturda
y, 19 November, 2011 4:20:58=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: broken tap=0A
=0A=0A=0AOn Nov 18, 2011, at 7:45 PM, rparigoris wrote:=0A=0A> =0A> **I rem
ember seeing tap removers for two and three flute taps, they have prongs
=0A>to fit down the flutes. Perhaps have a look in McMaster,=0A=0ARon...exc
ellent suggestion...I find that "4 finger" extractors exist...and =0Ahopefu
lly, I can find one locally which I can borrow!=0A=0AThanks much...Fred=0A
=====================
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2011
From: hagargs <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: broken tap
Depending on how far you are in get a punch and a big hammer and punch it through
all the way from the best side. Then drill the hole for a heli-coil and go
ahead and put the screw in. By the way you should be using coarse threads for
soft material like aluminum. Use 10-24 and lubricant when tapping.
Steve Hagar
-----Original Message-----
>From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
>Sent: Nov 18, 2011 7:14 PM
>To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Europa-List: broken tap
>
>
>Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
>
>While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum,
>I've broken the tap.
>
>I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish,
>but it was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing
>arm to which brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main
>wheel would attach.
>
>Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a
>tap.
>
>I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the
>broken tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd
>end up having to use a larger bolt.
>
>One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap
>which is proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the
>bracket, and drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing
>partially-plugged hole.
>
>On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for
>extracting the broken tap?
>
>Any suggestions?...anyone?
>
>Fred
>A194
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: broken tap
Date: Nov 19, 2011
On Nov 19, 2011, at 5:10 AM, hagargs wrote:
> By the way you should be using coarse threads for soft material
> like aluminum. Use 10-24 and lubricant when tapping.
Good point Steve...it hadn't occurred to me to use coarse threads.
I'll be needing to safety-wire the bolts, so I'd ordered (and have in
hand) AN3H-3 bolts...looking again in the Acft Spr cat., I only find
10-24 threads in some cap screws w/ slots for single blade screwdrivers.
Guess I'll settle for what I have...and if the threads strip, upsize
to 1/4 dia. bolts...
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 19, 2011
Subject: Re: broken tap
Mcmaster has a number of tools for removing broken taps. I do remember
using one of the extractors. You need to buy the right size for it to
work correctly. Search under tap remover at mcmaster.com
On Fri, Nov 18, 2011 at 9:14 PM, Fred Klein wrote:
>
> Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
>
> While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum, I've
> broken the tap.
>
> I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish, but it
> was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing arm to which
> brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main wheel would attach.
>
> Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a tap.
>
> I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the broken
> tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd end up having
> to use a larger bolt.
>
> One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap which is
> proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the bracket, and
> drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing partially-plugged
> hole.
>
> On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for extracting
> the broken tap?
>
> Any suggestions?...anyone?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Date: Nov 20, 2011
Gidday,
I am about to set up my wings to the fuselage for the first time and see a problem
for single handed rigging. I am wondering if there is a design of a portable,
light system of a strap setup or similar that clips onto the leading edge
of the wing, and then goes up over a block setup that sits just above the flap
closeout on the top of the wing, and then clips onto the trailing edge of the
flap, consequently allowing the flap to "not fall forward on its hinges when
the wing is rotated to the horizontal. I have a mod in my wingtips from Chuck
Popenoe where I can rotisserie the wings and move them around single handed, with
the tip supported by an inverted T section on castors. Once the wing is located
it would be nice to be able to push it home from the wingtip, but the flap
will need supporting. Any suggestions on how this can be done would be much
appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2011
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Tony=0AI always rig with the flaps down, the flap will then engage with the
operating =0Apin but you need a tapered guide in the flap root=0Ato locate
for the final entering of the pin.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________
_____________=0AFrom: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: europa-
list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, 20 November, 2011 10:40:27=0ASubject: Eu
ropa-List: Flap up method for single handed rigging=0A=0A--> Europa-List me
ssage posted by: Tony Renshaw =0A=0AGidday,=0AI a
m about to set up my wings to the fuselage for the first time and see a =0A
problem for single handed rigging. I am wondering if there is a design of a
=0Aportable, light system of a strap setup or similar that clips onto the
leading =0Aedge of the wing, and then goes up over a block setup that sits
just above the =0Aflap closeout on the top of the wing, and then clips onto
the trailing edge of =0Athe flap, consequently allowing the flap to "not f
all forward on its hinges when =0Athe wing is rotated to the horizontal. I
have a mod in my wingtips from Chuck =0APopenoe where I can rotisserie the
wings and move them around single handed, =0Awith the tip supported by an i
nverted T section on castors. Once the wing is =0Alocated it would be nice
to be able to push it home from the wingtip, but the =0Aflap will need supp
orting. Any suggestions on how this can be done would be much =0Aappreciate
============
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Date: Nov 20, 2011
Hi! Tony
I achieved this by including a tapered guide tube within the flap close out
extension. The flap is allowed to fall into fully down position and the
flap drive tube is also fully down .This tube receives the flap drive tube
and guides it to be exactly in line with the flap drive pin so that it
engages when you push the wing home into the spar socket. This can be
applied to both flap close outs. For each wing.
I also have welded metal RAMP extensions to the spar starboard socket which
guide the port spar home into place as you push the port wing into place,
this ensures the port spa is guided into the socket on the other side of the
aircraft for single person rigging.
I did publish photos of both of these items many eons ago . You may be able
to search and still find them somewhere in the Europa Cyberspace.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Sent: 20 November 2011 10:40
Subject: Europa-List: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Gidday,
I am about to set up my wings to the fuselage for the first time and see a
problem for single handed rigging. I am wondering if there is a design of a
portable, light system of a strap setup or similar that clips onto the
leading edge of the wing, and then goes up over a block setup that sits just
above the flap closeout on the top of the wing, and then clips onto the
trailing edge of the flap, consequently allowing the flap to "not fall
forward on its hinges when the wing is rotated to the horizontal. I have a
mod in my wingtips from Chuck Popenoe where I can rotisserie the wings and
move them around single handed, with the tip supported by an inverted T
section on castors. Once the wing is located it would be nice to be able to
push it home from the wingtip, but the flap will need supporting. Any
suggestions on how this can be done would be much appreciated.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2011
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Good description Bob!=0AGraham, cryptic mode!=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________
______________=0AFrom: Bob Harrison <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-l
ist(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, 20 November, 2011 11:18:21=0ASubject: RE:
Europa-List: Flap up method for single handed rigging=0A=0A--> Europa-List
message posted by: "Bob Harrison" =0A=0AHi! Tony
=0AI achieved this by including a tapered guide tube within the flap close
out=0Aextension. The flap is allowed to fall into fully down position and
the=0Aflap drive tube is also fully down .This tube receives the flap drive
tube=0Aand guides it to be exactly in line with the flap drive pin so that
it=0Aengages when you push the wing home into the spar socket. This can b
e=0Aapplied to both flap close outs. For each wing.=0AI also have welded me
tal RAMP extensions to the spar starboard socket which=0Aguide the port spa
r home into place as you push the port wing into place,=0Athis ensures the
port spa is guided into the socket on the other side of the=0Aaircraft for
single person rigging.=0AI did publish photos of both of these items many e
ons ago . You may be able=0Ato search and still find them somewhere in the
Europa Cyberspace.=0ARegards=0ABob Harrison G-PTAG=0A=0A-----Original Messa
ge-----=0AFrom: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-euro
pa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw=0ASent: 20 November
2011 10:40=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Europa-List: Flap up
ony Renshaw =0A=0AGidday,=0AI am about to set up
my wings to the fuselage for the first time and see a=0Aproblem for single
handed rigging. I am wondering if there is a design of a=0Aportable, light
system of a strap setup or similar that clips onto the=0Aleading edge of th
e wing, and then goes up over a block setup that sits just=0Aabove the flap
closeout on the top of the wing, and then clips onto the=0Atrailing edge o
f the flap, consequently allowing the flap to "not fall=0Aforward on its hi
nges when the wing is rotated to the horizontal. I have a=0Amod in my wingt
ips from Chuck Popenoe where I can rotisserie the wings and=0Amove them aro
und single handed, with the tip supported by an inverted T=0Asection on cas
tors. Once the wing is located it would be nice to be able to=0Apush it hom
e from the wingtip, but the flap will need supporting. Any=0Asuggestions on
how this can be done would be much appreciated.=0AReg=0ATony Renshaw=0ASyd
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Date: Nov 20, 2011
On Nov 20, 2011, at 2:40 AM, Tony Renshaw wrote:
> Once the wing is located it would be nice to be able to push it home
> from the wingtip, but the flap will need supporting.
Tony,
With your fixed conventional LG, I assume that you'll be using
electric flaps...if that's the case, you have some options on the
positioning of the flap tube control during your wing attachment
process. If flap control shows flaps retracted, a strap around the
wing holding the flaps in the retracted position could be handy.
I make this comment solely from noting that while moving my wings
around the shop with the flaps flapping around can be
irritating...alas, I have zero experience attaching the wings at a
proper airfield.
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap up method for single handed rigging
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Thanks Fred,Bob Graham and co re flap rigging. I will have electric flaps and could
therefore rig with the flaps at any position. At the moment they will fall
right out of the close out and rotate such that the trailing edge of the flap
can be against the wing, because I don't have the outrigger hardware to create
an extended stop. I either need to come up with an extended stop for my flaps,
or rig the wing with the flaps up. Has any of the electric flap Tri-gear guys
managed this other ways, or have any suggestions?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 21/11/2011, at 3:08 AM, Fred Klein wrote:
>
>
> On Nov 20, 2011, at 2:40 AM, Tony Renshaw wrote:
>
>> Once the wing is located it would be nice to be able to push it home from the
wingtip, but the flap will need supporting.
>
> Tony,
>
> With your fixed conventional LG, I assume that you'll be using electric flaps...if
that's the case, you have some options on the positioning of the flap tube
control during your wing attachment process. If flap control shows flaps retracted,
a strap around the wing holding the flaps in the retracted position could
be handy.
>
> I make this comment solely from noting that while moving my wings around the
shop with the flaps flapping around can be irritating...alas, I have zero experience
attaching the wings at a proper airfield.
>
> Fred
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Date: Nov 20, 2011
Tony,
I have tried single handed rigging with my trigear and the flaps are only
one of the issues. However, I have used a short set of bungies hooked to the
back pip pin and flap holes to hold the flap in position (a plagiarised
idea) and although it needs care the bungie provides a bit of flexibility
when pushing the wing home. A simple solution and it also helps to ensure
the flap does not drop when turning from the vertical to the horizontal.
Hope this helps.
Steve Pitt
G-SMDH
Trigear XS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Renshaw" <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Flap up method for single handed rigging
>
> Thanks Fred,Bob Graham and co re flap rigging. I will have electric flaps
> and could therefore rig with the flaps at any position. At the moment they
> will fall right out of the close out and rotate such that the trailing
> edge of the flap can be against the wing, because I don't have the
> outrigger hardware to create an extended stop. I either need to come up
> with an extended stop for my flaps, or rig the wing with the flaps up. Has
> any of the electric flap Tri-gear guys managed this other ways, or have
> any suggestions?
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 21/11/2011, at 3:08 AM, Fred Klein wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 20, 2011, at 2:40 AM, Tony Renshaw wrote:
>>
>>> Once the wing is located it would be nice to be able to push it home
>>> from the wingtip, but the flap will need supporting.
>>
>> Tony,
>>
>> With your fixed conventional LG, I assume that you'll be using electric
>> flaps...if that's the case, you have some options on the positioning of
>> the flap tube control during your wing attachment process. If flap
>> control shows flaps retracted, a strap around the wing holding the flaps
>> in the retracted position could be handy.
>>
>> I make this comment solely from noting that while moving my wings around
>> the shop with the flaps flapping around can be irritating...alas, I have
>> zero experience attaching the wings at a proper airfield.
>>
>> Fred
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap up method for single handed rigging
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 20, 2011
Tony,
Go download Chapter 9T Fitting ailerons & flaps to wing - Trigear. On page 9T-6,
9T-9, 9T-11 & 9T-17 they show part TGW-1 which serves to limit the extension
of the Flap. You could make up a similar piece from 1/8" aluminum and attach
it to the outer flap support bracket as illustrated. Adjust the slot to allow
full retraction and full extension and you are in business. You have a retaining
mechanism for flap extension.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Nov 20, 2011, at 2:04 PM, Tony Renshaw wrote:
>
> Thanks Fred,Bob Graham and co re flap rigging. I will have electric flaps and
could therefore rig with the flaps at any position. At the moment they will fall
right out of the close out and rotate such that the trailing edge of the flap
can be against the wing, because I don't have the outrigger hardware to create
an extended stop. I either need to come up with an extended stop for my flaps,
or rig the wing with the flaps up. Has any of the electric flap Tri-gear
guys managed this other ways, or have any suggestions?
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Subject: Control fork assembly friction against skin
I just did some trial fitting of the control fork in the cockpit module.
Although I took great pains to make sure the alignment was perfect, I
overlooked something. I am talking about the fork assembly
(CS02/Tufnol/CS03 sandwich) where it enters the tunnel through the hole in
the thigh support. Since the manual insisted on cutting this hole as low as
possible on the cockpit module's floor, I might have gone a hair too low.
The edges of the CS02 fork is now pressing against the lower glassfiber
flange. This friction is not serious, but even a small change in the setup
can make it stiffen up significantly. My thought is to cut that part of the
skin off, since I don't see it serving any special purpose. Photos are
attached. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Rotax EASA AD
Hi everyone,
I came aware of a recent AD concerning the Rotax engines.
Something about certain faulty crankshafts installed in 912's and 914's,
serious enough to warrant an emergency AD for certified airplanes.
Before I attempt to find out if my engine could have this faulty
crankshaft, does anyone know if there is a list with engine serial
numbers / years of built, that could possibly have this faulty crankshaft?
It would be great if I would not have to dig out the crankshaft to find
out whether it is ok or not, and don't have to worry about it at all.
Maybe there is such a list but the art of managing paperwork is not my
best developed area, so forgive me if I asked for the obvious.
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
On 11/18/2011 08:04 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
> Hi! Herewith a photo of the tie down location on the wing/flap hinge block
> on G-PTAG .
Ehm, the flap hinge is designed for holding the flap in position. Tying
down the aircraft with it imposes the hinge to possible jerking loads,
in a different angle than the hinge is supposed to receive during its
intended use. I remember some notes about not using pencil marks on this
apparently sensitive and critical part. Can anyone make an educated
guess whether using this part as tie down point would not compromise the
attachment or strength of the hinge?
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Control fork assembly friction against skin
Andrew. Simply trim away the offending portion of the flange and
continue on...
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 11/21/2011 9:22 AM, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
> I just did some trial fitting of the control fork in the cockpit module.
> Although I took great pains to make sure the alignment was perfect, I
> overlooked something. I am talking about the fork assembly
> (CS02/Tufnol/CS03 sandwich) where it enters the tunnel through the hole
> in the thigh support. Since the manual insisted on cutting this hole as
> low as possible on the cockpit module's floor, I might have gone a hair
> too low. The edges of the CS02 fork is now pressing against the lower
> glassfiber flange. This friction is not serious, but even a small change
> in the setup can make it stiffen up significantly. My thought is to cut
> that part of the skin off, since I don't see it serving any special
> purpose. Photos are attached. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel!
From: "robertpeterfrost" <robertpeterfrost(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
I am trying to source Nyogel 767A but it is not held in the UK by Newgate Simms
they have to import it and it will be in 100ml tubs and will take 3 weeks to
come. It costs about 31.00 for this small tub, but that isn't the main problem
it's the 3 week wait which then clashes with me being overseas for nearly 3 weeks
over the Christmas Holidays, so no flying until the New Year!!
Has anyone a small amount of Nyogel 767A I can purchase to save me the wait?
Regards
Robert
--------
Robert
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358633#358633
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax EASA AD
From: "goff" <goffmoore(at)aviators.net>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Frans,
The EASA notification is misleading in that it only refers to certified engines
because EASA only deal with certified aircraft. If you go to the Rotax website
you can download the Rotax Alert Service Bulletin (Mandatory) that lists ALL
the offending ENGINE numbers. Apparently only about 200 crankshafts were dodgy
and they are all more recent, being numbers which start with 6.
Hope this helps.
Goff
ps I'm also going to try and attach a pdf of the bulletin. Never done this before
so fingers crossed.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358634#358634
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/d05094_507.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
That would be my concern, I'm planning on a dedicated hard point slightly
outboard of the hinge.
Cheers,
Pete
A239
On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 11:10 AM, Frans Veldman wrote:
>
> On 11/18/2011 08:04 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
>
>> Hi! Herewith a photo of the tie down location on the wing/flap hinge
>> block
>> on G-PTAG .
>>
>
> Ehm, the flap hinge is designed for holding the flap in position. Tying
> down the aircraft with it imposes the hinge to possible jerking loads, in a
> different angle than the hinge is supposed to receive during its intended
> use. I remember some notes about not using pencil marks on this apparently
> sensitive and critical part. Can anyone make an educated guess whether
> using this part as tie down point would not compromise the attachment or
> strength of the hinge?
>
> Frans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Subject: Re: Rotax EASA AD
fwiw,
http://eaaforums.org/showthread.php?785-RotaxOwner.com-Alert-912-amp-914-Crankshaft-check-your-serial-number-Manditory
On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 11:00 AM, Frans Veldman wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I came aware of a recent AD concerning the Rotax engines.
> Something about certain faulty crankshafts installed in 912's and 914's,
> serious enough to warrant an emergency AD for certified airplanes.
>
> Before I attempt to find out if my engine could have this faulty
> crankshaft, does anyone know if there is a list with engine serial numbers
> / years of built, that could possibly have this faulty crankshaft?
>
> It would be great if I would not have to dig out the crankshaft to find
> out whether it is ok or not, and don't have to worry about it at all.
>
> Maybe there is such a list but the art of managing paperwork is not my
> best developed area, so forgive me if I asked for the obvious.
>
> Frans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Fwd: question from Rough River
Date: Nov 21, 2011
To All,
Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize not
being able to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems maybe
Labor day weekend may not be the best time for this event. A lot of
Family commitments for all. I think this year we should consider maybe
the week after or even two weeks after as we did a few years back. I
seem to remember there was someone else that was considering planning
the 2012 event. If so let me know or I would be happy to do it. Either
way is fine but maybe we should go for a list earlier this year to see
if the interest is still there. Looks like by there message below their
prices have been lowered a bit. I for one will do my best to attend. My
Kid is back in the states and most family emergencies have subsided...
LOL!
Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" <DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov>
> Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
> To:
> Subject: question from Rough River
>
>
> Morning,
> Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
> Lodging prices are lowerJ
> Lodge Room $80.96
> Standard Cottage$107.96
> Thanks
> Group Sales Coordinator
> Rough River State Dam Park
> 450 Lodge Road
> Falls of Rough Ky,40119
> 270-257-2311
> 1-800-325-1713
> DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Max Cointe" <mcointe(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: Rotax EASA AD
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Hi Frans and Goff,
Here it is... Not that recent as mine is 6.811.381 built in 2002...
Cheers,
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
-----Message d'origine-----
De-: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de goff
Envoy=E9-: lundi 21 novembre 2011 17:17
=C0-: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet-: Europa-List: Re: Rotax EASA AD
Frans,
The EASA notification is misleading in that it only refers to certified
engines because EASA only deal with certified aircraft. If you go to the
Rotax website you can download the Rotax Alert Service Bulletin
(Mandatory)
that lists ALL the offending ENGINE numbers. Apparently only about 200
crankshafts were dodgy and they are all more recent, being numbers which
start with 6.
Hope this helps.
Goff
ps I'm also going to try and attach a pdf of the bulletin. Never done
this
before so fingers crossed.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358634#358634
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/d05094_507.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed -- List of Contributors Published
Dec 1!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, the Lists
are a whole lot more valuable than your typical magazine subscription!
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel!
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Nyogel 868H is available from Farnell in the UK. 100cc costs 18.79.
I use a sample of it on my aircraft two weeks ago and it works just fine. I
obtained a sample from Nyogel in the USA which was delivered within 7 days.
Regards
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
robertpeterfrost
Sent: 21 November 2011 16:16
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Nose Wheel!
-->
I am trying to source Nyogel 767A but it is not held in the UK by Newgate
Simms they have to import it and it will be in 100ml tubs and will take 3
weeks to come. It costs about 31.00 for this small tub, but that isn't the
main problem it's the 3 week wait which then clashes with me being overseas
for nearly 3 weeks over the Christmas Holidays, so no flying until the New
Year!!
Has anyone a small amount of Nyogel 767A I can purchase to save me the wait?
Regards
Robert
--------
Robert
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358633#358633
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
No Problem !
This is the position of the Mono Wheel Outriggers, the attachment and struc
ture in the wing was set up to take the loads from that.
Only point I will make, Bob must have had an early Mono Kit with the Alloy
latch block [ that he has drilled though for the eye bolt] Trigear Kits hav
e a plastic [ spacer ] block, later Mono Kits had a three piece[ tufnel / h
ardened steel / tufnel ] latch block assembly. You won't drill though it i
f you have converted from a Mono and left the steel latch block in place !
I suggest Trigear owners do what I do, back up the plastic with an alloy pl
ate to spread the load. I also put a tube guide down to near the fairing to
help find the hole.
Check you have three bolts through each bracket to the embedded plates in t
he wing.
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Sent: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 16:14
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (
trike only)
On 11/18/2011 08:04 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
Hi! Herewith a photo of the tie down location on the wing/flap hinge bloc
k
on G-PTAG .
Ehm, the flap hinge is designed for holding the flap in position. Tying
own the aircraft with it imposes the hinge to possible jerking loads,
n a different angle than the hinge is supposed to receive during its
ntended use. I remember some notes about not using pencil marks on this
pparently sensitive and critical part. Can anyone make an educated
uess whether using this part as tie down point would not compromise the
ttachment or strength of the hinge?
Frans
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel!
From: "robertpeterfrost" <robertpeterfrost(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Thanks Brian, I will give them a call to see if they have any in stock.
Regards
Robert
--------
Robert
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358725#358725
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: carb bowl insulation
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
I would like to put some heat insulation under my 912 carb bowls and was thinking
of that sticky matting with foil on one side and stick to the bowls. but I
am not sure if thats a good idea or not or which foil to use from ASpruce. I can
only really see one fixing point - the engine bolt for a aluminium drip tray.
Any better ideas?
Not flown yet, should be the 10th Dec ish.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP
Build nearing completion
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358729#358729
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Control fork assembly friction against skin
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Andrew,
Remember that the range of play needed in the Aileron is restricted by two limbs
either side of stick. So any rubbing on the extremes is not an issue.
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
On 22/11/2011, at 4:22 AM, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
> I just did some trial fitting of the control fork in the cockpit module. Although
I took great pains to make sure the alignment was perfect, I overlooked something.
I am talking about the fork assembly (CS02/Tufnol/CS03 sandwich) where
it enters the tunnel through the hole in the thigh support. Since the manual
insisted on cutting this hole as low as possible on the cockpit module's floor,
I might have gone a hair too low. The edges of the CS02 fork is now pressing
against the lower glassfiber flange. This friction is not serious, but even
a small change in the setup can make it stiffen up significantly. My thought
is to cut that part of the skin off, since I don't see it serving any special
purpose. Photos are attached. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Rotax EASA AD
On 11/21/2011 06:07 PM, Max Cointe wrote:
> Here it is... Not that recent as mine is 6.811.381 built in 2002...
Whoops. My engine is uncomfortably close with 6772973, but still outside
the range!
Thanks for the document (and the others also thanks for the info)!
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Subject: carb bowl insulation
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Graeme,
Attached are five photos of my carb heat shields (912 ULS), which I
hope will say more than a thousand words.
The shield is made of thin stainless steel plate. The support is one
continous strip cut from a stainless steel plate, riveted to the shield.
The zig-zag shape makes the support sufficiently stiff against
vibrations.
You will see that the aft, lower fixation of the shield support is the
screw clamp that holds the exhaust temp thermocouple in place, while the
forward, upper fixation is a standard stainless steel screw hose clamp.
Both are tightened "just so" - no point tightening hard. If you do not
have these thermocouples installed, use hose clamps.
Good luck.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Jeff,
We are sure interested in attending the next fly-in. Date doesn't matter much
to us, but Labor Day weekend is tougher to plan. Soon as a date is decided, we'll
reserve a room.
Glad to hear your son is back safe and sound. Will make for a good Thanksgiving.
Hope to see Y'all there.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Nov 21, 2011, at 10:44 AM, Jeffrey Roberts wrote:
> To All,
> Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize not being
able to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems maybe Labor day weekend
may not be the best time for this event. A lot of Family commitments for
all. I think this year we should consider maybe the week after or even two weeks
after as we did a few years back. I seem to remember there was someone else
that was considering planning the 2012 event. If so let me know or I would
be happy to do it. Either way is fine but maybe we should go for a list earlier
this year to see if the interest is still there. Looks like by there message
below their prices have been lowered a bit. I for one will do my best to attend.
My Kid is back in the states and most family emergencies have subsided...
LOL!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" <DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov>
>> Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
>> To:
>> Subject: question from Rough River
>>
>>
>> Morning,
>> Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
>> Lodging prices are lowerJ
>> Lodge Room $80.96
>> Standard Cottage$107.96
>> Thanks
>> Group Sales Coordinator
>> Rough River State Dam Park
>> 450 Lodge Road
>> Falls of Rough Ky,40119
>> 270-257-2311
>> 1-800-325-1713
>> DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
Jeff-
Later would be better for all concerned I think. The more we can push it toward
the end of September, or maybe even the first part of October, the better.
Jim Puglise
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 11:44:21 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
To All,
Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize not being able
to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems maybe Labor day weekend
may not be the best time for this event. A lot of Family commitments for all.
I think this year we should consider maybe the week after or even two weeks
after as we did a few years back. I seem to remember there was someone else
that was considering planning the 2012 event. If so let me know or I would be
happy to do it. Either way is fine but maybe we should go for a list earlier this
year to see if the interest is still there. Looks like by there message below
their prices have been lowered a bit. I for one will do my best to attend.
My Kid is back in the states and most family emergencies have subsided... LOL!
Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" < DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov >
Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
Subject: question from Rough River
Morning,
Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
Lodging prices are lower J
Lodge Room $80.96
Standard Cottage$107.96
Thanks
Group Sales Coordinator
Rough River State Dam Park
450 Lodge Road
Falls of Rough Ky,40119
270-257-2311
1-800-325-1713
DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: "ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
Hi! Frans/Peter/all.
I would draw your attention to a simple fact that when the flaps are
extended at 82 knots a large proportion of the aircraft weight is
carried on the flap hinges. The hinges at the outboard end of the
flaps are integral with and cured in place as part of two ribs which
extend over the full width of the wing which in turn also is cured and
envelopes the wing spar thus spreading any loading over a massive part
of the wing structure.
These structural factors are I would venture to suggest likely
stronger than any integral tie down that could be separately
constructed into the wing anywhere else without such considerable
weight increase when an existing potential facility is already
available.
With regards to receiving snatch blows through the aircraft "bucking
about" this is entirely without foundation since on tying down through
these points it is possible to load up and deflect the main gear legs
to ensure the system is constantly in tension.
In conclusion I can advise that G-PTAG has always been tied down in
this manner and has withstood some severe gusting wind conditions
without any damage ensuing what or where ever over it's 900 hours life
time. However all this advice is provided without liability as to the
engineering capability suggested. In other words why don't you all do
as you prefer but with the benefit of Neville Eyre's information I
suggest you establish your own aircraft's integrity with regards to the
type of block in use.
May I thank Neville Eyre for his kind intervention on this matter and I
can confirm that the blocks on G-PTAG are aluminium alloy and were part
of it's original Mono Wheel Kit since the aircraft was originally built
as a convertible so embodying all things Trike and Mono together.
Best regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
Sent: 21 November 2011 16:11
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge
block (trike only)
nl>
On 11/18/2011 08:04 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
> Hi! Herewith a photo of the tie down location on the wing/flap hinge
block
> on G-PTAG .
Ehm, the flap hinge is designed for holding the flap in position.
Tying
down the aircraft with it imposes the hinge to possible jerking
loads,
in a different angle than the hinge is supposed to receive during its
intended use. I remember some notes about not using pencil marks on
this
apparently sensitive and critical part. Can anyone make an educated
guess whether using this part as tie down point would not compromise
the
attachment or strength of the hinge?
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2011
From: "ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Hi! Tony.
You have me completely baffled . My a/c is a trike and has the
electric drive flaps.
However it also has a slotted link in the outboard hinge
mechanism on each wing which prevents the flap from falling past fully
extended position.
I can not for the life of me understand why you would need to leave
this hard ware out. when it serves the purpose which you are trying to
solve?
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Sent: 20 November 2011 20:05
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Flap up method for single handed rigging
com>
Thanks Fred,Bob Graham and co re flap rigging. I will have electric
flaps and could therefore rig with the flaps at any position. At the
moment they will fall right out of the close out and rotate such that
the trailing edge of the flap can be against the wing, because I don't
have the outrigger hardware to create an extended stop. I either need
to come up with an extended stop for my flaps, or rig the wing with the
flaps up. Has any of the electric flap Tri-gear guys managed this other
ways, or have any suggestions?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
All very good valid points. Thanks for the post!
My concern would be with any side-loads on the brackets, but that could
likely be mitigated.
Cheers,
Pete
A239
On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 5:48 PM, ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk <
ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
> ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
>
> Hi! Frans/Peter/all.
> I would draw your attention to a simple fact that when the flaps are
> extended at 82 knots a large proportion of the aircraft weight is
> carried on the flap hinges. The hinges at the outboard end of the
> flaps are integral with and cured in place as part of two ribs which
> extend over the full width of the wing which in turn also is cured and
> envelopes the wing spar thus spreading any loading over a massive part
> of the wing structure.
>
> These structural factors are I would venture to suggest likely
> stronger than any integral tie down that could be separately
> constructed into the wing anywhere else without such considerable
> weight increase when an existing potential facility is already
> available.
>
> With regards to receiving snatch blows through the aircraft "bucking
> about" this is entirely without foundation since on tying down through
> these points it is possible to load up and deflect the main gear legs
> to ensure the system is constantly in tension.
>
> In conclusion I can advise that G-PTAG has always been tied down in
> this manner and has withstood some severe gusting wind conditions
> without any damage ensuing what or where ever over it's 900 hours life
> time. However all this advice is provided without liability as to the
> engineering capability suggested. In other words why don't you all do
> as you prefer but with the benefit of Neville Eyre's information I
> suggest you establish your own aircraft's integrity with regards to the
> type of block in use.
>
> May I thank Neville Eyre for his kind intervention on this matter and I
> can confirm that the blocks on G-PTAG are aluminium alloy and were part
> of it's original Mono Wheel Kit since the aircraft was originally built
> as a convertible so embodying all things Trike and Mono together.
>
> Best regards
>
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
>
> Sent: 21 November 2011 16:11
>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge
> block (trike only)
>
>
> nl>
>
>
> On 11/18/2011 08:04 PM, Bob Harrison wrote:
>
> > Hi! Herewith a photo of the tie down location on the wing/flap hinge
> block
>
> > on G-PTAG .
>
>
> Ehm, the flap hinge is designed for holding the flap in position.
> Tying
>
> down the aircraft with it imposes the hinge to possible jerking
> loads,
>
> in a different angle than the hinge is supposed to receive during its
>
> intended use. I remember some notes about not using pencil marks on
> this
>
> apparently sensitive and critical part. Can anyone make an educated
>
> guess whether using this part as tie down point would not compromise
> the
>
> attachment or strength of the hinge?
>
>
> Frans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
Hi Bob,
> I would draw your attention to a simple fact that when the flaps are
> extended at 82 knots a large proportion of the aircraft weight is
> carried on the flap hinges.
Yes, but this load is in the opposite direction and from quite a
different nature, and most likely in an angled direction whereas the
flap exerts a "straight" line of load.
Many of us have a "no push" or "no step" mark on the flap, while it is
very unlikely that someone weighs more than the lift potential of the
flap. Apparently some people feel that not all loads are of a similar
nature. I'm a bit cautious, I have to admit, I couldn't help wondering
about this. I just prefer to limit the use of critical parts to their
intended usage.
> With regards to receiving snatch blows through the aircraft "bucking
> about" this is entirely without foundation since on tying down through
> these points it is possible to load up and deflect the main gear legs
> to ensure the system is constantly in tension.
We all know what happens with the doors when they are in constant
tension by the support springs: they deform. I can imagine when you load
up the structure of the aircraft while being parked in the sun that it
may deform a bit over time. Maybe just a millimeter, but that said,
while building the airplane I did the measurements down to a precision
of better than 1 millimeter. So if I tie down the aircraft I make sure
not to tie any load on the wing. Downside of course is that if the
airplane rocks in the wind that it will jerk on the tie downs. But I
don't use the flap hinges as tie down points. But who knows? Maybe your
method is better. We are just guessing here, aren't we?
> In conclusion I can advise that G-PTAG has always been tied down in
> this manner and has withstood some severe gusting wind conditions
> without any damage ensuing what or where ever over it's 900 hours life
> time.
It is impressive, but no guarantee by itself that it could never have
any negative consequences. You are probably right but I had an uneasy
feeling when I red about it. If it was about a bicycle I would have
ignored it, but we are talking airplanes here and I feel that if any of
us has an uneasy feeling about something that he should bring it up.
> May I thank Neville Eyre for his kind intervention on this matter and I
I hope I didn't irritate you, I was just wondering whether using a
critical aircraft part outside the scope of its intended usage would be
safe by definition. I have to admit that I would never have thought that
just a pencil mark would compromise the strength of that part either.
I think it is a good thing if we discuss the safety of some ideas before
they become common practice. I would really hate to read someday that
one of us lost his flap during flight and that a hinge with an eyebolt
was discovered some distance away from the wreckage... Especially if I
remember having questioned it silently and never brought up the subject.
I guess we won't be able to obtain a definite verdict on this matter,
everyone should make his own decision. It is probably ok to use the flap
hinge for this but you can't know for sure I think.
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
From: Nigel Graham <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Frans,
Don't forget that this mounting point was originally designed and
stressed to mount the outrigger on the original mono-wheel. Consider
if you will, the compressive shock loads imposed by an unforgiving
landing on rough grass, or the lateral loads imposed during turning.
I cannot recall a single incidence of this part of the
wing/flap/outrigger mounting ever failing (and there have been
numerous mono groung handling "incidents"). Your arguments are
however, all valid.
Nigel
Hi Bob,
I would draw your attention to a simple fact that when the flaps
are
extended at 82 knots a large proportion of the aircraft weight is
carried on the flap hinges.
Yes, but this load is in the opposite direction and from quite a
different nature, and most likely in an angled direction whereas the
flap exerts a "straight" line of load.
Many of us have a "no push" or "no step" mark on the flap, while it
is very unlikely that someone weighs more than the lift potential of
the flap. Apparently some people feel that not all loads are of a
similar nature. I'm a bit cautious, I have to admit, I couldn't help
wondering about this. I just prefer to limit the use of critical
parts to their intended usage.
With regards to receiving snatch blows through the aircraft "bucking
about" this is entirely without foundation since on tying down
through
these points it is possible to load up and deflect the main gear
legs
to ensure the system is constantly in tension.
We all know what happens with the doors when they are in constant
tension by the support springs: they deform. I can imagine when you
load up the structure of the aircraft while being parked in the sun
that it may deform a bit over time. Maybe just a millimeter, but that
said, while building the airplane I did the measurements down to a
precision of better than 1 millimeter. So if I tie down the aircraft
I make sure not to tie any load on the wing. Downside of course is
that if the airplane rocks in the wind that it will jerk on the tie
downs. But I don't use the flap hinges as tie down points. But who
knows? Maybe your method is better. We are just guessing here, aren't
we?
In conclusion I can advise that G-PTAG has always been tied down in
this manner and has withstood some severe gusting wind conditions
without any damage ensuing what or where ever over it's 900 hours
life
time.
It is impressive, but no guarantee by itself that it could never
have any negative consequences. You are probably right but I had an
uneasy feeling when I red about it. If it was about a bicycle I would
have ignored it, but we are talking airplanes here and I feel that if
any of us has an uneasy feeling about something that he should bring
it up.
May I thank Neville Eyre for his kind intervention on this matter
and I
I hope I didn't irritate you, I was just wondering whether using a
critical aircraft part outside the scope of its intended usage would
be safe by definition. I have to admit that I would never have
thought that just a pencil mark would compromise the strength of that
part either.
I think it is a good thing if we discuss the safety of some ideas
before they become common practice. I would really hate to read
someday that one of us lost his flap during flight and that a hinge
with an eyebolt was discovered some distance away from the
wreckage... Especially if I remember having questioned it silently
and never brought up the subject.
I guess we won't be able to obtain a definite verdict on this
matter, everyone should make his own decision. It is probably ok to
use the flap hinge for this but you can't know for sure I think.
Frans
===========
BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap up method for single handed rigging
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 21, 2011
I built a telescoping square brace tubing that attaches to the tie down bolt hole.
I have an over center brace that I can take the wings off my dolly and place
the spar into the hole in the fuselage. I then lift the wing and straighten
it out from the wing tip then slide it into the fuselage. I only have one
picture, take in the rain, but can sent the measurements and some pictures. The
square tubing is welded to a square legs that have 360 degrees rolls installed.
The telescoping inner tube is secured with a Vise Grip pliers on each wing.
I have then marked with magic marker and once I have the wings in I telescope
the tube to the correct height to install the pins. I have the flap in the
down position and work the wing into the fuselage to just before engaging the
flaps.
I hope this makes sense. I have put the wings on using this method for the last
year by myself.
If you want the pictures e-mail off line aireupora(at)sbcglobal.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358772#358772
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0296_104.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Subject: Stick control movement - how many degrees?
It seems the suggested 5-7mm gap between the CS08 crank and the
cockpit floor may cause interference of the control stick. Some
builders have suggested increasing this gap. I hate guessing how much
gap to leave, so it would help if I knew how many degrees the stick is
expected to swing for a full left or right deflection. Does anyone
have this information, or willing to check for me?
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
On 11/22/2011 01:35 AM, Nigel Graham wrote:
> Don't forget that this mounting point was originally designed and
> stressed to mount the outrigger on the original mono-wheel. Consider if
> you will, the compressive shock loads imposed by an unforgiving landing
> on rough grass,
Yes, I realize that. But what is the duration of a landing roll compared
to a whole night in constant movement due to the wind? it is unlikely
that you will experience metal fatigue just due to the landings, but how
about prolonged rocking in the wind? Isn't this the same reason why we
try to restrain the flight controls while parked in the wind? Normal
rudder use is different than constant movement due to the wind, although
the movement by itself is similar.
> or the lateral loads imposed during turning.
I don't have a mono but I think the lateral load is taken up solely by
the main gear, and the outrigger just keeps the wing of the ground.
I doubt that the hinge attach points will see any sideways loads at all
during their life, that is, if they are used for their intended purposes
only.
It is just a piece of metal sticking out of the wing, I can imagine that
it can easily develop metal fatigue just at the edge where it protrudes
if you wiggle it long enough. The material and the construction both
indicate that it is not designed for this kind of movement, but I'm not
a metallurgist so I could be wrong.
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Regarding laterals loads on outriggers.
Watching a Europa Mono turn or manoeuvre on the ground and especially grass is
a torturous sight. Being pull backwards, even worse.
The nylon often bends way out of true and that must inflict loads to the mountings.
They seem sufficient in that case.
I fitted tie down eyes to the outboard Flap fixings on a Trigear. Based on the
insight of that fixing area when building it, I think it has a good strength capability
and doesn't compromise long term fixing.
All of this is my ageing and confused opinion!
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Hi,
I use a piece of duct tape holding the flaps temporarily in place (all up) while
rigging single-handedly having set the electric flap position (TRI) to full
"up". The flap pin meets the bushing proper. Once rigged I tear the duct tape
off, for next time.
Christoph Both
#223, Wolfville, Nova Scotia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Flap up method for single handed rigging
Hi! Tony.
You have me completely baffled . My a/c is a trike and has the
electric drive flaps.
However it also has a slotted link in the outboard hinge
mechanism on each wing which prevents the flap from falling past fully
extended position.
I can not for the life of me understand why you would need to leave
this hard ware out. when it serves the purpose which you are trying to
solve?
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Sent: 20 November 2011 20:05
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Flap up method for single handed rigging
com>
Thanks Fred,Bob Graham and co re flap rigging. I will have electric
flaps and could therefore rig with the flaps at any position. At the
moment they will fall right out of the close out and rotate such that
the trailing edge of the flap can be against the wing, because I don't
have the outrigger hardware to create an extended stop. I either need
to come up with an extended stop for my flaps, or rig the wing with the
flaps up. Has any of the electric flap Tri-gear guys managed this other
ways, or have any suggestions?
Reg
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Fwd: question from Rough River
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Hi all,
Sue and I are UK Europa owner/flyers and we visited the Rough River fly in
(not in our Europa) two years ago. We had a great time albeit with no
Europas due weather. We would very much like to attend again but leaving
the UK before the later part of September is not practical. We normally
holiday in Florida in the Autunm so would like to be able to combine that
with Rough River.
So yes we would like to request as late as possible in September or early
October. It may also encourage one or two other Europeans to attend.
Just a thought.
Pete
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Sent: 21 November 2011 20:54
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
Jeff-
Later would be better for all concerned I think. The more we can push it
toward the end of September, or maybe even the first part of October, the
better.
Jim Puglise
_____
From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 11:44:21 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
To All,
Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize not
being able to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems maybe Labor
day weekend may not be the best time for this event. A lot of Family
commitments for all. I think this year we should consider maybe the week
after or even two weeks after as we did a few years back. I seem to remember
there was someone else that was considering planning the 2012 event. If so
let me know or I would be happy to do it. Either way is fine but maybe we
should go for a list earlier this year to see if the interest is still
there. Looks like by there message below their prices have been lowered a
bit. I for one will do my best to attend. My Kid is back in the states and
most family emergencies have subsided... LOL!
Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" <DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov>
Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
Subject: question from Rough River
Morning,
Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
Lodging prices are lower:-)
Lodge Room $80.96
Standard Cottage$107.96
Thanks
Group Sales Coordinator
Rough River State Dam Park
450 Lodge Road
Falls of Rough Ky,40119
270-257-2311
1-800-325-1713
DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Getting us a latter date shouldn't be a problem. Before I book it, how
about we take a quick survey. I'll list the weekends here. Just vote as
I have done and this will give us all a feel as to who will try and make
it and what are the best dates. As they say you can't please everyone
but maybe we can work towards it. Please keep in mind weather could
start being more of a factor as we get close to October. Then again???
September Weekends. - Vote / Name
7th & 8th...
15th & 16th... Jeff R Gold Rush
22nd & 23rd...
28th & 29th...
October
5th & 6th...
On Nov 22, 2011, at 8:15 AM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
> Hi all,
> Sue and I are UK Europa owner/flyers and we visited the Rough River
fly in (not in our Europa) two years ago. We had a great time albeit
with no Europas due weather. We would very much like to attend again
but leaving the UK before the later part of September is not practical.
We normally holiday in Florida in the Autunm so would like to be able to
combine that with Rough River.
> So yes we would like to request as late as possible in September or
early October. It may also encourage one or two other Europeans to
attend.
> Just a thought.
>
> Pete
>
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
> Sent: 21 November 2011 20:54
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
>
> Jeff-
>
> Later would be better for all concerned I think. The more we can push
it toward the end of September, or maybe even the first part of October,
the better.
>
> Jim Puglise
>
> From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 11:44:21 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
>
> To All,
> Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize
not being able to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems
maybe Labor day weekend may not be the best time for this event. A lot
of Family commitments for all. I think this year we should consider
maybe the week after or even two weeks after as we did a few years back.
I seem to remember there was someone else that was considering planning
the 2012 event. If so let me know or I would be happy to do it. Either
way is fine but maybe we should go for a list earlier this year to see
if the interest is still there. Looks like by there message below their
prices have been lowered a bit. I for one will do my best to attend. My
Kid is back in the states and most family emergencies have subsided...
LOL!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" <DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov>
> Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
> To:
> Subject: question from Rough River
>
>
>
> Morning,
> Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
> Lodging prices are lowerJ
> Lodge Room $80.96
> Standard Cottage$107.96
> Thanks
> Group Sales Coordinator
> Rough River State Dam Park
> 450 Lodge Road
> Falls of Rough Ky,40119
> 270-257-2311
> 1-800-325-1713
> DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
>
>
>
>
> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> " target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> www.buildersbooks.com
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 11/21/11
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2011
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:05:42 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
Getting us a latter date shouldn't be a problem. Before I book it, how about we
take a quick survey. I'll list the weekends here. Just vote as I have done and
this will give us all a feel as to who will try and make it and what are the
best dates. As they say you can't please everyone but maybe we can work towards
it. Please keep in mind weather could start being more of a factor as we get
close to October. Then again???
September Weekends. - Vote / Name
7th & 8th...
15th & 16th... Jeff R Gold Rush
22nd & 23rd...
28th & 29th...
October
5th & 6th... Jim and Lynne N283JL
On Nov 22, 2011, at 8:15 AM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
Hi all,
Sue and I are UK Europa owner/flyers and we visited the Rough River fly in (not
in our Europa) two years ago. We had a great time albeit with no Europas due
weather. We would very much like to attend again but leaving the UK before the
later part of September is not practical. We normally holiday in Florida in the
Autunm so would like to be able to combine that with Rough River.
So yes we would like to request as late as possible in September or early October.
It may also encourage one or two other Europeans to attend.
Just a thought.
Pete
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Sent: 21 November 2011 20:54
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
Jeff-
Later would be better for all concerned I think. The more we can push it toward
the end of September, or maybe even the first part of October, the better.
Jim Puglise
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Roberts" < jeff(at)rmmm.net >
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 11:44:21 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
To All,
Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize not being able
to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems maybe Labor day weekend
may not be the best time for this event. A lot of Family commitments for all.
I think this year we should consider maybe the week after or even two weeks
after as we did a few years back. I seem to remember there was someone else
that was considering planning the 2012 event. If so let me know or I would be
happy to do it. Either way is fine but maybe we should go for a list earlier this
year to see if the interest is still there. Looks like by there message below
their prices have been lowered a bit. I for one will do my best to attend.
My Kid is back in the states and most family emergencies have subsided... LOL!
Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" < DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov >
Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
Subject: question from Rough River
Morning,
Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
Lodging prices are lower J
Lodge Room $80.96
Standard Cottage$107.96
Thanks
Group Sales Coordinator
Rough River State Dam Park
450 Lodge Road
Falls of Rough Ky,40119
270-257-2311
1-800-325-1713
DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com " target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution www.buildersbooks.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
11/21/11 href="http://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Jeff,
Any of the dates are fine with us.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Nov 22, 2011, at 9:05 AM, Jeffrey Roberts wrote:
> Getting us a latter date shouldn't be a problem. Before I book it, how about
we take a quick survey. I'll list the weekends here. Just vote as I have done
and this will give us all a feel as to who will try and make it and what are the
best dates. As they say you can't please everyone but maybe we can work towards
it. Please keep in mind weather could start being more of a factor as we
get close to October. Then again???
>
> September Weekends. - Vote / Name
>
>
> 7th & 8th...
>
> 15th & 16th... Jeff R Gold Rush
>
> 22nd & 23rd...
>
> 28th & 29th...
>
> October
>
> 5th & 6th...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Fwd: question from Rough River
Date: Nov 22, 2011
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Roberts
Sent: 22 November 2011 15:06
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
Getting us a latter date shouldn't be a problem. Before I book it, how about
we take a quick survey. I'll list the weekends here. Just vote as I have
done and this will give us all a feel as to who will try and make it and
what are the best dates. As they say you can't please everyone but maybe we
can work towards it. Please keep in mind weather could start being more of a
factor as we get close to October. Then again???
September Weekends. - Vote / Name
7th & 8th...
15th & 16th... Jeff R Gold Rush
22nd & 23rd...
28th & 29th... Pete & Sue Jeffers Choice 2
October
5th & 6th... Pete & Sue Jeffers (UK) Choice 1
On Nov 22, 2011, at 8:15 AM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
Hi all,
Sue and I are UK Europa owner/flyers and we visited the Rough River fly in
(not in our Europa) two years ago. We had a great time albeit with no
Europas due weather. We would very much like to attend again but leaving
the UK before the later part of September is not practical. We normally
holiday in Florida in the Autunm so would like to be able to combine that
with Rough River.
So yes we would like to request as late as possible in September or early
October. It may also encourage one or two other Europeans to attend.
Just a thought.
Pete
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Sent: 21 November 2011 20:54
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
Jeff-
Later would be better for all concerned I think. The more we can push it
toward the end of September, or maybe even the first part of October, the
better.
Jim Puglise
_____
From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 11:44:21 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
To All,
Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize not
being able to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems maybe Labor
day weekend may not be the best time for this event. A lot of Family
commitments for all. I think this year we should consider maybe the week
after or even two weeks after as we did a few years back. I seem to remember
there was someone else that was considering planning the 2012 event. If so
let me know or I would be happy to do it. Either way is fine but maybe we
should go for a list earlier this year to see if the interest is still
there. Looks like by there message below their prices have been lowered a
bit. I for one will do my best to attend. My Kid is back in the states and
most family emergencies have subsided... LOL!
Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" <DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov>
Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
Subject: question from Rough River
Morning,
Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
Lodging prices are lower:-)
Lodge Room $80.96
Standard Cottage$107.96
Thanks
Group Sales Coordinator
Rough River State Dam Park
450 Lodge Road
Falls of Rough Ky,40119
270-257-2311
1-800-325-1713
DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.buildersbooks.com/> www.buildersbooks.com
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
www.aeroelectric.com
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2011
From: hagargs <hagargs(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stick control movement - how many degrees?
It depends on how fat your legs are. No matter how far the stick swings its not
going to get past your legs when you are sitting in the seat.
Steve Hagar
-----Original Message-----
>From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Nov 21, 2011 10:01 PM
>To: Europa List
>Subject: Europa-List: Stick control movement - how many degrees?
>
>
>It seems the suggested 5-7mm gap between the CS08 crank and the
>cockpit floor may cause interference of the control stick. Some
>builders have suggested increasing this gap. I hate guessing how much
>gap to leave, so it would help if I knew how many degrees the stick is
>expected to swing for a full left or right deflection. Does anyone
>have this information, or willing to check for me?
>Thanks!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2011
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
Jeff,
I'm good with whatever...
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 11/22/2011 9:14 AM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> *To: *europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:05:42 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
>
> Getting us a latter date shouldn't be a problem. Before I book it, how
> about we take a quick survey. I'll list the weekends here. Just vote as
> I have done and this will give us all a feel as to who will try and make
> it and what are the best dates. As they say you can't please everyone
> but maybe we can work towards it. Please keep in mind weather could
> start being more of a factor as we get close to October. Then again???
>
> September Weekends. - Vote / Name
>
>
> 7th & 8th...
>
> 15th & 16th... Jeff R Gold Rush
>
> 22nd & 23rd...
>
> 28th & 29th...
>
> October
>
> 5th & 6th... Jim and Lynne N283JL
>
>
> On Nov 22, 2011, at 8:15 AM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Sue and I are UK Europa owner/flyers and we visited the Rough River
> fly in (not in our Europa) two years ago. We had a great time albeit
> with no Europas due weather. We would very much like to attend again
> but leaving the UK before the later part of September is not
> practical. We normally holiday in Florida in the Autunm so would
> like to be able to combine that with Rough River.
>
> So yes we would like to request as late as possible in September or
> early October. It may also encourage one or two other Europeans to
> attend.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Pete
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
> *Sent:* 21 November 2011 20:54
> *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
>
> Jeff-
>
> Later would be better for all concerned I think. The more we can
> push it toward the end of September, or maybe even the first part of
> October, the better.
>
> Jim Puglise
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From: *"Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net <mailto:jeff(at)rmmm.net>>
> *To: *europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent: *Monday, November 21, 2011 11:44:21 AM
> *Subject: *Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
>
> To All,
>
> Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize
> not being able to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems
> maybe Labor day weekend may not be the best time for this event. A
> lot of Family commitments for all. I think this year we should
> consider maybe the week after or even two weeks after as we did a
> few years back. I seem to remember there was someone else that was
> considering planning the 2012 event. If so let me know or I would be
> happy to do it. Either way is fine but maybe we should go for a list
> earlier this year to see if the interest is still there. Looks like
> by there message below their prices have been lowered a bit. I for
> one will do my best to attend. My Kid is back in the states and most
> family emergencies have subsided... LOL!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> *From: *"Clark, Donna F (Parks)" <DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
> >
>
> *Date: *November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
>
> *To: *>
>
> *Subject: question from Rough River*
>
>
> Morning,
>
> Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
>
> Lodging prices are lowerJ
>
> Lodge Room $80.96
>
> Standard Cottage$107.96
>
> Thanks
>
> Group Sales Coordinator
>
> RoughRiver State Dam Park
>
> 450 Lodge Road
>
> Fallsof RoughKy,40119
>
> 270-257-2311
>
> 1-800-325-1713
>
> DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gary Leinberger <Gary.Leinberger(at)millersville.edu>
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Subject: Fwd: question from Rough River
Any of those dates work for me - although I would prefer it not be Labor Da
y weekend
Gary Leinberger
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Jeffers
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:40 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-europa-list-serve
r(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Roberts
Sent: 22 November 2011 15:06
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
Getting us a latter date shouldn't be a problem. Before I book it, how abou
t we take a quick survey. I'll list the weekends here. Just vote as I have
done and this will give us all a feel as to who will try and make it and wh
at are the best dates. As they say you can't please everyone but maybe we c
an work towards it. Please keep in mind weather could start being more of a
factor as we get close to October. Then again???
September Weekends. - Vote / Name
7th & 8th...
15th & 16th... Jeff R Gold Rush
22nd & 23rd...
28th & 29th... Pete & Sue Jeffers Choice 2
October
5th & 6th... Pete & Sue Jeffers (UK) Choice 1
On Nov 22, 2011, at 8:15 AM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
Hi all,
Sue and I are UK Europa owner/flyers and we visited the Rough River fly in
(not in our Europa) two years ago. We had a great time albeit with no Euro
pas due weather. We would very much like to attend again but leaving the U
K before the later part of September is not practical. We normally holiday
in Florida in the Autunm so would like to be able to combine that with Rou
gh River.
So yes we would like to request as late as possible in September or early O
ctober. It may also encourage one or two other Europeans to attend.
Just a thought.
Pete
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-europa-list-serve
r(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimpuglise@comca
st.net
Sent: 21 November 2011 20:54
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
Jeff-
Later would be better for all concerned I think. The more we can push it t
oward the end of September, or maybe even the first part of October, the be
tter.
Jim Puglise
________________________________
From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net<mailto:jeff(at)rmmm.net>>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 11:44:21 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fwd: question from Rough River
To All,
Below is a note that I received today from Rough River. I apologize not bei
ng able to make it last year as life got in the way. It seems maybe Labor d
ay weekend may not be the best time for this event. A lot of Family commitm
ents for all. I think this year we should consider maybe the week after or
even two weeks after as we did a few years back. I seem to remember there
was someone else that was considering planning the 2012 event. If so let me
know or I would be happy to do it. Either way is fine but maybe we should
go for a list earlier this year to see if the interest is still there. Look
s like by there message below their prices have been lowered a bit. I for o
ne will do my best to attend. My Kid is back in the states and most family
emergencies have subsided... LOL!
Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Clark, Donna F (Parks)" <DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov<mailto:DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.
gov>>
Date: November 21, 2011 10:23:08 AM CST
Subject: question from Rough River
Morning,
Just checking in to see if you would like to book for September 2012
Lodging prices are lower:)
Lodge Room $80.96
Standard Cottage$107.96
Thanks
Group Sales Coordinator
Rough River State Dam Park
450 Lodge Road
Falls of Rough Ky,40119
270-257-2311
1-800-325-1713
DonnaF.Clark(at)ky.gov
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com>
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________________________________
No virus found in this message.
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11/22/11
rsbooks.com>
m>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gavin and Anne Lee" <gavanne(at)iconz.co.nz>
Subject: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
Date: Nov 23, 2011
The Europa sits very nicely in the wind, it might rock around a bit but it's important
that the tie down ropes are only loosely tied with some slack, it's rare
that the wind will blow hard enough to move the aircraft, (on grass anyway),
In 3 years of tying down a Europa at out stations I've never had it pull up
hard against the tie downs so they are not under continuous stress, mainly there
for the odd gust that might come through.
Depends where you live and what your weather patterns are of course
Gavin Lee..............ZK-EPA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
Sent: Tuesday, 22 November 2011 11:28 p.m.
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Eye bolt tie down through wing/flap hinge block (trike
only)
-->
On 11/22/2011 01:35 AM, Nigel Graham wrote:
> Don't forget that this mounting point was originally designed and
> stressed to mount the outrigger on the original mono-wheel. Consider
> if you will, the compressive shock loads imposed by an unforgiving
> landing on rough grass,
Yes, I realize that. But what is the duration of a landing roll compared to a whole
night in constant movement due to the wind? it is unlikely that you will
experience metal fatigue just due to the landings, but how about prolonged rocking
in the wind? Isn't this the same reason why we try to restrain the flight
controls while parked in the wind? Normal rudder use is different than constant
movement due to the wind, although the movement by itself is similar.
> or the lateral loads imposed during turning.
I don't have a mono but I think the lateral load is taken up solely by the main
gear, and the outrigger just keeps the wing of the ground.
I doubt that the hinge attach points will see any sideways loads at all during
their life, that is, if they are used for their intended purposes only.
It is just a piece of metal sticking out of the wing, I can imagine that it can
easily develop metal fatigue just at the edge where it protrudes if you wiggle
it long enough. The material and the construction both indicate that it is not
designed for this kind of movement, but I'm not a metallurgist so I could be
wrong.
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wiring connectors
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Giddy, I am in LA and figure I might as well give Aircraft Spruce some of my hard
earned dollars. I am thinking of buying a 1000' spool of AWG 20 wire and am
after advice whether the spade crimp styled connectors are ok for permanent conx?
I am not good with electrons. They think like my wife, often changing their
minds with unpredictable outcomes. I don't enjoy them, electrons. I can barely
tolerate the wife either, but she does let me build my plane so I suppose
I should cut her some slack. So, within the Spruce range as I am "Johnny on the
spot", is there a simple type of connector such as AMP or is there a better
type, dimple or no dimple etc? Any help would be appreciated.
P.S if anyone has anything bad to say about a SIRS Navigator Compass let me know
as I am planning on getting one of those too.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney, though in LA.
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Housman" <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: Wiring connectors
Date: Nov 22, 2011
If you were monitoring the AeroElectric-List you would have learned that
crimped Faston-type connections are the best way to go for permanent
air-tight connections for our airplanes. Forget solder and avoid those
screw terminal strips supplied by Europa.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics soon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:34 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Wiring connectors
-->
Giddy, I am in LA and figure I might as well give Aircraft Spruce some of my
hard earned dollars. I am thinking of buying a 1000' spool of AWG 20 wire
and am after advice whether the spade crimp styled connectors are ok for
permanent conx? I am not good with electrons. They think like my wife, often
changing their minds with unpredictable outcomes. I don't enjoy them,
electrons. I can barely tolerate the wife either, but she does let me build
my plane so I suppose I should cut her some slack. So, within the Spruce
range as I am "Johnny on the spot", is there a simple type of connector such
as AMP or is there a better type, dimple or no dimple etc? Any help would be
appreciated.
P.S if anyone has anything bad to say about a SIRS Navigator Compass let me
know as I am planning on getting one of those too.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney, though in LA.
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wiring connectors
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Tony,
FWIW, I use crimp fast-on spade connectors as much as possible: switches, relays,
etc. Crimp ring terminals for circuit breakers and when I have a switch with
screw attachments. Crimp pins & sockets in D-Sub connectors. And soldering
only when absolutely, positively necessary and there's no other alternative
available.
Dimple fast-on spade connectors probably more secure.
Nothing negative (or positive) to say about the SIRS Navigator Compass, just make
sure you confirm that you get one for the Southern Hemisphere.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Nov 22, 2011, at 5:33 PM, Tony Renshaw wrote:
>
> Giddy, I am in LA and figure I might as well give Aircraft Spruce some of my
hard earned dollars. I am thinking of buying a 1000' spool of AWG 20 wire and
am after advice whether the spade crimp styled connectors are ok for permanent
conx? I am not good with electrons. They think like my wife, often changing their
minds with unpredictable outcomes. I don't enjoy them, electrons. I can barely
tolerate the wife either, but she does let me build my plane so I suppose
I should cut her some slack. So, within the Spruce range as I am "Johnny on
the spot", is there a simple type of connector such as AMP or is there a better
type, dimple or no dimple etc? Any help would be appreciated.
> P.S if anyone has anything bad to say about a SIRS Navigator Compass let me know
as I am planning on getting one of those too.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney, though in LA.
>
> Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wiring connectors
From: "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2011
Tony
Used Spade connectors in MCR-4S, using proper crimping tool as recommended by Electric
Bob. for 20 & 22 AWG just doubled up the wire to get a better grip where
required.
Soldering only used where there was no alternative.
Cheers Peter
--------
Peter Armstrong
Auckland, New Zealand
DynAero MCR-4S (Do not shoot me :) ).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358910#358910
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Contributions Down By 20%...
Dear Listers,
As of today, Contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind
last year at this time by roughly 20%. I have a Fund Raiser each year simply
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I run all of my own servers and they are housed here locally, and the Internet
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If you enjoy the Lists, please make a Contribution today. I also offer some incentive
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Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
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Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Nov 23, 2011
The big Canard Fly In is Sept 28-30. The KY EAA Fly In and GlaStar Fly In are
weekend of Sept 8.
September Weekends. - Vote / Name
7th & 8th...
15th & 16th... Jeff R Gold Rush
22nd & 23rd... Jim & Heather N241BW (2nd choice)
28th & 29th...
October
5th & 6th... Jim and Lynne N283JL , Jim & Heather N241BW (1st choice)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=358988#358988
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wiring connectors
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 23, 2011
Crimping is the way to go for most of the power circuits in the Europa.
It is extremely important to purchase and use only Aviation grade
crimp, not the automotive grade commonly available locally.
The Aviation grade connectors, like "PIDG" are closed barrel with the
metal internal sleeve extending up the barrel to support the insulation.
In Auto grade connectors, the metal sleeve stops deep inside the barrel
and only grips the bare wire. These connectors fail with vibration.
The Europa needs some wire gauges other than 20ga. Again, choose
the right colored connector for the wire gauge. I bought ring crimp
connectors for up to 4-0 welding cable for the lines from my battery to
contactor to starter for example.
Cheers,
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=359012#359012
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: RR2012 dates
Date: Nov 23, 2011
I asked my TN weather GURU, John Lawton, for his thoughts about dates
for a Rough River Europa gathering...he responded by writing:
> Usually, fall is the driest part of the year. Mid to late September
> is usually a good choice unless we have a storm (hurricane) come up
> out of the gulf. The local hang gliding club schedules their annual
> contest in late September and they usually have decent weather.
> Ordinarily, by, by mid September the daily convective T-storms are
> pretty much done for the season and the heavy, set in rains like
> we're seeing now that happen later in the fall haven't started yet.
> So, my first choice would be mid to late September. The next best
> time would be early to mid May. If you go much later than say, May
> 20th, we're starting to get into the convective season and the
> potential for getting rained out is considerably higher. It's also
> hotter and more humid after about May 20th or so. If you go earlier
> than say May 10th it can be windy.
If memory serves, we've been at the effect of one of those storms out
of the gulf before which reduced aircraft attendance to just 2 or 3...
Let's factor in weather when setting our date,
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring connectors
Date: Nov 23, 2011
Tony,
Pidge connectors and the proper crimping tool is the way to go.
Bob Knuckles of Aeroelectric fame is a lover of spade connectors, I hate
them as they tend to be very hard to disengage with fat fingers in a
dark hole inside an airplane.
I prefer ring terminals which are terrible to get a screw driver on in
the dark in a hole in a panel.
No matter what you decide, please buy a quality crimping tool for Pidge
style connectors ( I spent $100 and mine is perfect, but not for a one
time use) or better yet get a good crimping tool and practice.
I prefer AMP connectors, and the circular AMP or now Tyco Amp plastic
circular connectors.
For a crimp tool the AMP pro crimper at A/C Spruce is very good and very
expensive. Eclipse has a good crimper with various heads, but do some
hand strengthening exercises to use it. Cost is about $40 and heads are
also about $40 for Pidge, standard, Coax etc.
I suggest you look on line at Allied or Digikey for tools and Dsub
connectors. Again, I have a pair of crimpers that I only use as I do
not want to lose them. I can make 100 crimps and only have one bad one.
(I test each one anyway) and have found the Eclipse Dsub pin crimper to
be quite good, but watch your wire size. 20 Ga, through 18 Ga works
well with the Eclipse, but you need a good AMP with the proper die to do
the really small 24-26 wires, but you can make do with cheaper ones.
Enjoy your stay.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Renshaw<mailto:tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:33 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Wiring connectors
>
Giddy, I am in LA and figure I might as well give Aircraft Spruce some
of my hard earned dollars. I am thinking of buying a 1000' spool of AWG
20 wire and am after advice whether the spade crimp styled connectors
are ok for permanent conx? I am not good with electrons. They think like
my wife, often changing their minds with unpredictable outcomes. I don't
enjoy them, electrons. I can barely tolerate the wife either, but she
does let me build my plane so I suppose I should cut her some slack. So,
within the Spruce range as I am "Johnny on the spot", is there a simple
type of connector such as AMP or is there a better type, dimple or no
dimple etc? Any help would be appreciated.
P.S if anyone has anything bad to say about a SIRS Navigator Compass
let me know as I am planning on getting one of those too.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney, though in LA.
Sent from my iPad
www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2011
Subject: Any idea what this is?
From: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>
My engineer just found this floating around in the belly of the aircraft, h
e
was quite worried it could get entangled somewhere and jam a control.
The question is=8A. What is it? Did it do something important?
Thanks,
-Carl.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Any idea what this is?
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Nov 24, 2011
Looks like the starboard spar socket - the one attached to the fiberglass behind
the seat (the tip of port spar slides in and pin goes through it). Part #
S02, install instructions on page 14-2. It makes rigging easier by capturing
the tip of the port wing spar. Don't think it is particularly structural but
it shouldn't remain where it is now . ;-)
Jim & Heather Butcher
N241BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=359101#359101
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Any idea what this is?
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk>
Date: Nov 24, 2011
Hi,
As Jim and Heather have said, the rigging cup that captures the tip of the
Port spar. Not needed to be there for structural reasons, but makes life a
whole lot easier to rig the wings.
Would have / should have been Reduxed on during the build, I insist [ when
doing Final Inspections] on a 3 ply Bid lay up from the rim, onto the seatb
ack bulkhead [ 1'' x 1'' ] to prevent just this from happening.
If you haven't got Redux about, scuff the can and seat back area with 80 gr
it paper and bond on with [std ] J B Weld, wipe on a good radius fillet, th
en do a 3 Bid lay up with whatever epoxy you can get , Zap from you Hobby S
tore will do for this. It should ''register'' back on to the Redux pad that
is left on the seatback, you can release the tip of the Port spar with pac
king tape and wax, and nip up with a greased bolt with the Port wing rigged
to be sure of correct position.
Check the bond of the other one [ on the aft of the Port spar ]that takes
the Stb spar tip.
Cheers,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 13:01
Subject: Europa-List: Any idea what this is?
My engineer just found this floating around in the belly of the aircraft, h
e was quite worried it could get entangled somewhere and jam a control.
The question is. What is it? Did it do something important?
Thanks,
-Carl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Any idea what this is?
Date: Nov 24, 2011
Hi! Carl
It is the receptacle can for the port spar and should be reduxed to the rear
of the starboard seat back/tank forward bulk head.
It is damaging the ruder cable in the present location. And was probably
knocked off by misdirected assembly.
If it is not in position between both spars it will allow the starboard pin
to be end loose, and therefore IMHO it is a critical part.
I recently advised putting leading ramps on to this item to safly guide the
port spar into the can rather than thumping it off.
It also occurres to me to say that one of your fuel pipes isn't pushed right
home under the clip?
Regards
Bob Harrison.
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Meek
Sent: 24 November 2011 12:56
Subject: Europa-List: Any idea what this is?
My engineer just found this floating around in the belly of the aircraft, he
was quite worried it could get entangled somewhere and jam a control.
The question is.. What is it? Did it do something important?
Thanks,
-Carl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Any idea what this is?
Date: Nov 24, 2011
Do you mean the main starboard pin that goes behind the seat cushion? My pin
has a double lock on it to totally prevent it coming loose, presumably this
is ok without the part? I recently derigged and rigged with no real issues,
despite part not being in place.
Regards
Carl
Sent from my iPhone
On 24 Nov 2011, at 20:14, "Bob Harrison" wrote:
> Hi! Carl
> It is the receptacle can for the port spar and should be reduxed to the re
ar of the starboard seat back/tank forward bulk head.
> It is damaging the ruder cable in the present location. And was probably k
nocked off by misdirected assembly.
> If it is not in position between both spars it will allow the starboard pi
n to be end loose, and therefore IMHO it is a critical part.
> I recently advised putting leading ramps on to this item to safly guide th
e port spar into the can rather than thumping it off.
> It also occurres to me to say that one of your fuel pipes isn=99t pu
shed right home under the clip?
> Regards
> Bob Harrison.
>
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-ser
ver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Meek
> Sent: 24 November 2011 12:56
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Any idea what this is?
>
> My engineer just found this floating around in the belly of the aircraft, h
e was quite worried it could get entangled somewhere and jam a control.
>
> The question is. What is it? Did it do something important?
>
> Thanks,
> -Carl.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Any idea what this is?
Date: Nov 24, 2011
H! Carl
Yes that is the pin but mine is an Avdel Pin with the expanding balls to
retain it in place. So I guess you are OK but it for sure would be very
difficult rigging on your own , for my money I would do as Neville has
recommended soonest.
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Meek
Sent: 24 November 2011 20:49
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Any idea what this is?
Do you mean the main starboard pin that goes behind the seat cushion? My
pin has a double lock on it to totally prevent it coming loose,
presumably this is ok without the part? I recently derigged and rigged
with no real issues, despite part not being in place.
Regards
Carl
Sent from my iPhone
On 24 Nov 2011, at 20:14, "Bob Harrison" wrote:
Hi! Carl
It is the receptacle can for the port spar and should be reduxed to the
rear of the starboard seat back/tank forward bulk head.
It is damaging the ruder cable in the present location. And was probably
knocked off by misdirected assembly.
If it is not in position between both spars it will allow the starboard
pin to be end loose, and therefore IMHO it is a critical part.
I recently advised putting leading ramps on to this item to safly guide
the port spar into the can rather than thumping it off.
It also occurres to me to say that one of your fuel pipes isn=99t
pushed right home under the clip?
Regards
Bob Harrison.
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Meek
Sent: 24 November 2011 12:56
Subject: Europa-List: Any idea what this is?
My engineer just found this floating around in the belly of the
aircraft, he was quite worried it could get entangled somewhere and jam
a control.
The question is. What is it? Did it do something important?
Thanks,
-Carl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Any idea what this is?
Date: Nov 25, 2011
Hi,
I see this subject has already been well covered. It has been identified as
the socket for the starboard (right) wing spar (located behind the port
(left) side seat). However it could also be the other locating socket which
is bonded to the starboard wing spar itself ! - you don't say if you have
identified which side the offending article originates from.
Neville refers to this (other socket) in his email. The socket needs to be
reduxed back (whichever side it is) and held in place with a couple of
layers of bid (as per his instructions). The bid can be applied using either
the proper resin (Ampreg) or 30 minute Z-poxy will work just as well - may
need to warm it to wet the cloth out as it's a bit gloopy.
Cheers
Carl
(as in Carl Pattinson - G-LABS)
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Meek
Sent: 24 November 2011 12:56
Subject: Europa-List: Any idea what this is?
My engineer just found this floating around in the belly of the aircraft, he
was quite worried it could get entangled somewhere and jam a control.
The question is.. What is it? Did it do something important?
Thanks,
-Carl.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution...
There is less than a week left in this year's List Fund Raiser and only a few short
days to grab one of the great Contribution Gifts available this year. Support
is still significantly lagging behind last year at this point but hopefully
it will pick up here towards the end. Please remember that it is solely the
Contributions of List members that keeps the Lists up and running as there
is no commercialism or advertising on the Matronics Lists and Forums.
The List Contribution web site is secure, fast, and easy and you can use a credit
card, Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I want to thank everyone that has already made a generous contribution to support
the Lists!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics EMail List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: NEC Flying Show
Date: Nov 25, 2011
For those going to the Flying Show this weekend at the NEC, Birmingham,
the Club will be present as a guest/supporter of the LAA stand. Come and
meet with us and see David Joyce's prize winning Europa monowheel on
display.
If you want to meet up with other Europa owners then why not stop by at
11.00am (the traditional meeting time for those attending Sun'n'Fun).
Regards
Steve Pitt
Chairman Europa Club
G-SMDH Trigear XS
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Any idea what this is?
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Nov 25, 2011
The reason we think it is the starboard cup is that the port cup has a hardened
washer bonded to it (or it should have!).
The glider wing mod requires removal of the starboard cup due to the increased
size of the spar, so if you're not having trouble rigging and anticipate also
doing glider wings, that's a reason to leave it off.
Jim & Heather
N241BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=359231#359231
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NEC Flying Show
From: Groups <Groups(at)thegoddards.com>
Date: Nov 25, 2011
Also visit the Galaxy UL Engines stand to see my Europa classic tailwheel fi
tted with a UL Power UL260iS 107Bhp fuel injected air cooled engine. Only ha
d the engine 1 day so is work in progress.
Vince Goddard
Sent from my phone
On 25 Nov 2011, at 09:09, "Steven Pitt" wrote:
> For those going to the Flying Show this weekend at the NEC, Birmingham, th
e Club will be present as a guest/supporter of the LAA stand. Come and meet w
ith us and see David Joyce's prize winning Europa monowheel on display.
>
> If you want to meet up with other Europa owners then why not stop by at 11
.00am (the traditional meeting time for those attending Sun'n'Fun).
>
> Regards
> Steve Pitt
> Chairman Europa Club
> G-SMDH Trigear XS
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Date: Nov 25, 2011
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
On 11/25/2011 04:53 PM, Christoph Both wrote:
> Question #2 then is: which hose type exactly? With the oil sump exit
Take a look at:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX
I used these hoses in my Europa and they served me well. Very light
weight, flexible and durable. Make sure to get the associated hose ends,
these hoses are not suitable for standard hose clamps.
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk>
Date: Nov 25, 2011
Hi Christoph,
The oil lines in the circuit do not see the pressure you see on the gauge,t
hat stays within the engine, the line from the tank via the cooler to the p
ump inlet sees SUCTION, the return line from the crankcase sees just above
atmospheric [ crankcase pressure] so you don't need fancy high pressure hos
es, but it does need to be oil resistant, and firm enough to not collapse u
nder suction. Try Jap or German Auto parts outlets, they will have hose in
that horrible foriegn measurement size ! Go for a ''name'' Brand, ie Goodye
ar, Pirelli, Conti and you won't be far wrong.
I sleeve ALL fuel and oil lines in either / both Firesleeve [ the red rubbe
ry glass lined stuff], or the silver foil covered glass sleeve, ACS or ''Bo
y Racer'' Auto stores for those.
Rather than the ''Jubilee'' worm drive clamps which have a stiff straight p
art on them that won't conform to the hose, I go for the ones with a ''swiv
el'' nut and bolt that keeps a constant curve to the clamp circumference, t
hey also have a flared rim that prevents them digging in to the hose, more
expensive than Jubilee's, cheaper than the fancy [ and unnecessary] Aeroqui
p sort.
Cheers ,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Sent: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:48
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Hello Europa builders:
The 912 installation manual specifies a 12-millimeter oil hose connecting t
he Rotax to the oil cooler/rotax external oil pan. 12mm hose is hard to get
in North America/Canada. =C2=BD inch hose is just a bit wider ID, so my qu
estion is, taking into account the considerable oil pressure on start up ex
ceeding 100psi, if =C2=BD inch hose is fine =93 of course, properly s
ecured with clamps. I have a CLASSIC engine installation and am concerned t
hat oil hose directly located above the muffler which, if oil starts drippi
ng is an issue with potentially starting a fire.
Question #2 then is: which hose type exactly? With the oil sump exit locate
d directly above the HOT muffler, at a close distance of less than 1 inch m
y preferred selection of hose would be stainless steel braided high pressur
e/high temperature product. Weight and not too large OD is an issue as well
(5 feet will be used for the entire circuit). I have identified Aeroquip 6
01-8 with SS outer as the most likely product ($20/foot from Aircraft Spruc
e) but before I place an order I like to hear your opinion.
Thanks,
Christoph Both
#223 Wolfville, Nova Scotia, Canada
EUROPA Classic Rotax 912S Woodcomp SR 3000, 2-blade, in perpetual state of
completion.
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD%
=EF=BD=EF=BDM4=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDx=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
=EF=BDw=EF=BDr=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Date: Nov 25, 2011
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Cg=
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2011
Subject: Leaky Brake Fitting - Some advice please!
From: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>
I had a problem today where the parking brake got stuck on. Normally to
release it, I put a lot of pressure on the finger brakes and it unsticks.
Unfortunately, something else unstuck first! I must have put a bit too much
pressure on the left brake (same one I had bleeding problems with) and it
squirted fluid out.
Looks like I need a new nylon compression olive, or perhaps a whole new
brass fitting. Any idea where to get these from? They are the much hated
jamar (I think that's the name) brakes. Leak was from between the nylon
olive ring and pipe itself.
The next trouble is that I need to get to the parking brake valve to put a
new handle on it (I snapped it off during my messing about) but I have no
idea how to get to it! Its inside the central tunnel, seemingly
inaccessible. I might even need to get to this to replace the length of
pipe, I suspect it needs refreshing in order to fix this leak.
Thanks for any advice :)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Leaky Brake Fitting - Some advice please!
Date: Nov 26, 2011
Carl
What colour are your brake pipes. If they were supplied by Europa and
are
black they are 6mm tube. If they are supplied by Europa and clear
(white)
they are =BC inch. Brass poly flow fittings are designed for =BC inch
tube.
They will (just about) work with the black 6mm tube but can be blown of
with pressure or knocked of easily. Europa changed over to the clear
(white) =BC tube when this was pointed out to them. So if you are
replacing
any tube make sure it is =BC inch.
As far as I know you cannot buy the olives on there own. You can buy
the
brass end fitting with the olive and sleeve in it from Aircraft Spruce
part
No 261-UB-4 . Have a look at the range, search for Brass Poly-flo
fittings.
Sorry but I have no magic way of getting at your parking brake valve.
I
assume you can just about access it from the inspection hatch behind the
fuel cock on the starboard side of the tunnel.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2011
Subject: Re: Leaky Brake Fitting - Some advice please!
From: Carl Meek <carlmeek(at)gmail.com>
See attached pic=8A they are a mix! Looks like black from the reservoir,
opaque white onwards. Thanks for the info, I'll check out Aircraft Spruce.
There is a small access hatch about 8" behind it on starboard side, but no
clear way to access it directly=8A. I guess I'll have to get mirrors and torc
h
and try and see if I can service it!
Thanks,
-Carl.
From: G-IANI <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:01:19 -0000
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Leaky Brake Fitting - Some advice please!
Carl
What colour are your brake pipes. If they were supplied by Europa and are
black they are 6mm tube. If they are supplied by Europa and clear (white)
they are 1=8E4 inch. Brass poly flow fittings are designed for 1=8E4 inch tube
.
They will (just about) work with the black 6mm tube but can be blown of
with pressure or knocked of easily. Europa changed over to the clear
(white) 1=8E4 tube when this was pointed out to them. So if you are replacin
g
any tube make sure it is 1=8E4 inch.
As far as I know you cannot buy the olives on there own. You can buy the
brass end fitting with the olive and sleeve in it from Aircraft Spruce part
No 261-UB-4 . Have a look at the range, search for Brass Poly-flo
fittings.
Sorry but I have no magic way of getting at your parking brake valve. I
assume you can just about access it from the inspection hatch behind the
fuel cock on the starboard side of the tunnel.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
<http://www.buildersbooks.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2011
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: EURO02 part supplied wrong
Much belated - thank you Rowland!
Jan de Jong
> Jan - Mike McClean at Europa read my e-mail posting and is getting the right
screws sent to me on Monday. Good service!
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution Today...
Dear Listers,
A quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser and the List of Contributors
is quickly approching. The Matronics Lists are 100% member supported
and all of the operational costs are provided for by your Contributions during
this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a big difference and keeps all of the Matronics
Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Leaky Brake Fitting - Some advice please!
Hi Carl,
> I had a problem today where the parking brake got stuck on. Normally to
> release it, I put a lot of pressure on the finger brakes and it
> unsticks.
I'm a bit puzzled by this. My parking brake valve, as supplied by Europa
together with the Jamar junk, has no "feel" in it. I just move the lever
back and forth without any force (there is no detectable friction), and
it doesn't matter whether the brakes are enganged or not. So, if the
parking brake is set it takes no force at all to release it, just a hint
of a fingertip is sufficient.
> Unfortunately, something else unstuck first! I must have put a
> bit too much pressure on the left brake (same one I had bleeding
> problems with) and it squirted fluid out.
As seen from the picture it looks like someone mishandled the nut,
apparently in a desperate attempt to seal it. If it wasn't you who did
it just after the recent leak, it looks like it has caused troubles
before. Although I hate the Jamar junk it doesn't look like it has
anything to do with it this time. You just need to replace the brass nut
and seal.
Ian just pointed out that the black tube is of the wrong size. Well, I
only have the black one but it never gave problems. In your case I
wouldn't worry about the one black tube from the central connection, it
is indeed connected to the reservoir and never carries any pressure at all.
> The next trouble is that I need to get to the parking brake valve to put
> a new handle on it
From your description I think that your parking brake is broken and
needs to be replaced completely.
> but I have
> no idea how to get to it! Its inside the central tunnel, seemingly
> inaccessible.
The belly directly under the tunnel was originally intended to be cut
away for the monowheel, it is just a thin skin and carries no structural
purpose at all. Many trigear owners (like me) have cut it (partly) away
nevertheless and created a hatch in place of it. You can still do that
and you will find there is so much working space there that you can even
stick your head in it. Replacing the parking brake will be very easy
that way. Also it offers easy inspection of fuel lines, rudder cables
and other things. If there is no hatch there, I wonder how one would
carry out the annual inspection.
Succes,
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2011
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: First Flight Video N283JL
We were able to upload the video of N283JLs first flight to Youtube. Sue Jeffers
took some excellent video and stills and Peter expertly edited it. The video
is about 8 minutes long. To view it, go to Youtube and put "N283JL" into your
search engine. We are now approaching 10 hours, everything seems to be running
fine, and all temps have been in the green for the last two flights.
Jim Puglise
N283JL, XS Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2011
Subject: Re: First Flight Video N283JL
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Jim, thanks for sharing this. Let the fun begin [?] !!!!
On Sun, Nov 27, 2011 at 10:39 AM, wrote:
> We were able to upload the video of N283JLs first flight to Youtube. Sue
> Jeffers took some excellent video and stills and Peter expertly edited it.
> The video is about 8 minutes long. To view it, go to Youtube and put
> "N283JL" into your search engine. We are now approaching 10 hours,
> everything seems to be running fine, and all temps have been in the green
> for the last two flights.
>
> Jim Puglise
> N283JL, XS Jabiru 3300
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight Video N283JL
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 27, 2011
Jim & Lynn,
Thanks for the video! Enjoy! Enjoy! Enjoy!
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Nov 27, 2011, at 10:39 AM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote:
> We were able to upload the video of N283JLs first flight to Youtube. Sue Jeffers
took some excellent video and stills and Peter expertly edited it. The video
is about 8 minutes long. To view it, go to Youtube and put "N283JL" into
your search engine. We are now approaching 10 hours, everything seems to be
running fine, and all temps have been in the green for the last two flights.
>
> Jim Puglise
> N283JL, XS Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight Video N283JL
Date: Nov 27, 2011
On Nov 27, 2011, at 8:39 AM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote:
> We were able to upload the video of N283JLs first flight to Youtube.
Excellent Jim...a very BIG DAY...thanks for the tip on the video,
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Aluminium Pipe for Fuel Inlet
Date: Nov 28, 2011
Hi Europa Builders,
I have had a request for more Aluminium pipes for the fuel Inlet between
the =9Ccobra=9D and the fuel tank.
Are there any other builders interested in one?
See the attachment.
Cheers,
Tim
Mono Classic #292 ZK-TIM
Tim Ward,
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch 8052
New Zealand
Ph; 03 3515166
Mob; 0210640221
email; ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: First Flight Video N283JL
Date: Nov 28, 2011
Wonderful, Jim, you must be very happy, congrats
craig
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 2:40 AM
Subject: Europa-List: First Flight Video N283JL
We were able to upload the video of N283JLs first flight to Youtube.
Sue Jeffers took some excellent video and stills and Peter expertly
edited it. The video is about 8 minutes long. To view it, go to
Youtube and put "N283JL" into your search engine. We are now
approaching 10 hours, everything seems to be running fine, and all temps
have been in the green for the last two flights.
Jim Puglise
N283JL, XS Jabiru 3300
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: First Flight Video N283JL
Date: Nov 27, 2011
Jim & lynn,
A very hardy Congratulations from Tennessee!! Fly safe & have fun!!
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
On Nov 27, 2011, at 11:34 AM, Robert Borger wrote:
> Jim & Lynn,
>
> Thanks for the video! Enjoy! Enjoy! Enjoy!
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger(at)mac.com
>
> On Nov 27, 2011, at 10:39 AM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>> We were able to upload the video of N283JLs first flight to Youtube.
Sue Jeffers took some excellent video and stills and Peter expertly
edited it. The video is about 8 minutes long. To view it, go to
Youtube and put "N283JL" into your search engine. We are now
approaching 10 hours, everything seems to be running fine, and all temps
have been in the green for the last two flights.
>>
>> Jim Puglise
>> N283JL, XS Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwd: question from Rough River
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Date: Nov 27, 2011
Jeff,
Any weekend is good for Donna and myself. Just let us know.
Probably later is better than Labor Day.
Troy
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=359509#359509
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk>
Date: Nov 27, 2011
Hi Guys,
Duncan kindly remined me I didn't mention temperature specification in my l
ast post, thanks Duncan, I trust builders won't go to B&Q or Walmart for th
eir hose, go to a Race Auto shop [Think Automotive or similar outlet], don'
t trust the Clerk, refer to the Manufacturers Spec' Sheet to see the hose i
s both Oil and Temp suitable.See what racers are using on their Subaru WRX'
s and Mitsubushi EVO's and the like ?
What I was [ poorly] trying to say is fancy Teflon / Stainless lines are no
t needed , and in fact difficult to hook up to the Rotax tank and motor con
nections with the Aeroquip / Earls type fittings and too stiff to run in th
e limited space easily.. [ and at =C2=A325 / $35 + an end !]
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Sent: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:38
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Hi Nev,
Thank you very much for your time. I will heed your advice (as in the past!
).
Thanks,
Christoph
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neville Eyre
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2011 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Hi Christoph,
The oil lines in the circuit do not see the pressure you see on the gauge,t
hat stays within the engine, the line from the tank via the cooler to the p
ump inlet sees SUCTION, the return line from the crankcase sees just above
atmospheric [ crankcase pressure] so you don't need fancy high pressure hos
es, but it does need to be oil resistant, and firm enough to not collapse u
nder suction. Try Jap or German Auto parts outlets, they will have hose in
that horrible foriegn measurement size ! Go for a ''name'' Brand, ie Goodye
ar, Pirelli, Conti and you won't be far wrong.
I sleeve ALL fuel and oil lines in either / both Firesleeve [ the red rubbe
ry glass lined stuff], or the silver foil covered glass sleeve, ACS or ''Bo
y Racer'' Auto stores for those.
Rather than the ''Jubilee'' worm drive clamps which have a stiff straight p
art on them that won't conform to the hose, I go for the ones with a ''swiv
el'' nut and bolt that keeps a constant curve to the clamp circumference, t
hey also have a flared rim that prevents them digging in to the hose, more
expensive than Jubilee's, cheaper than the fancy [ and unnecessary] Aeroqui
p sort.
Cheers ,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Sent: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:48
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Hello Europa builders:
The 912 installation manual specifies a 12-millimeter oil hose connecting t
he Rotax to the oil cooler/rotax external oil pan. 12mm hose is hard to get
in North America/Canada. =C2=BD inch hose is just a bit wider ID, so my qu
estion is, taking into account the considerable oil pressure on start up ex
ceeding 100psi, if =C2=BD inch hose is fine =93 of course, properly s
ecured with clamps. I have a CLASSIC engine installation and am concerned t
hat oil hose directly located above the muffler which, if oil starts drippi
ng is an issue with potentially starting a fire.
Question #2 then is: which hose type exactly? With the oil sump exit locate
d directly above the HOT muffler, at a close distance of less than 1 inch m
y preferred selection of hose would be stainless steel braided high pressur
e/high temperature product. Weight and not too large OD is an issue as well
(5 feet will be used for the entire circuit). I have identified Aeroquip 6
01-8 with SS outer as the most likely product ($20/foot from Aircraft Spruc
e) but before I place an order I like to hear your opinion.
Thanks,
Christoph Both
#223 Wolfville, Nova Scotia, Canada
EUROPA Classic Rotax 912S Woodcomp SR 3000, 2-blade, in perpetual state of
completion.
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD%
=EF=BD=EF=BDM4=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDx=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
=EF=BDw=EF=BDr=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD%
=EF=BD=EF=BDM4=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDx=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
=EF=BDw=EF=BDr=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Date: Nov 28, 2011
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Max Cointe" <mcointe(at)free.fr>
Subject: First Flight Video N283JL
Date: Nov 28, 2011
Hi Jim,
Unlike for babies birth of a plane is better than conception (except if
you are a mechanical fanatic)! Enjoy flights of every kind including
what we call here =9Cflights in a hangar=9D to express talks
of pilots on ground.
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de
jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Envoy=C3=A9 : dimanche 27 novembre 2011 17:40
=C3 : Europa List
Objet : Europa-List: First Flight Video N283JL
We were able to upload the video of N283JLs first flight to Youtube.
Sue Jeffers took some excellent video and stills and Peter expertly
edited it. The video is about 8 minutes long. To view it, go to
Youtube and put "N283JL" into your search engine. We are now
approaching 10 hours, everything seems to be running fine, and all temps
have been in the green for the last two flights.
Jim Puglise
N283JL, XS Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2011
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
On 11/28/2011 03:15 AM, Neville Eyre wrote:
> What I was [ poorly] trying to say is fancy Teflon / Stainless lines are
> not needed , and in fact difficult to hook up to the Rotax tank and
> motor connections with the Aeroquip / Earls type fittings and too stiff
> to run in the limited space easily.. [ and at 25 / $35 + an end !]
The link a gave earlier in this thread points to a hose that is light
weight, very flexible, and able to handle high temperatures.
Rubber hoses age and need to be replaced at least every five years, are
heavy, and not tolerant of very high temperatures. Normally you wouldn't
need the additional protection of a "fancy" hose, but what if you have a
crack in the exhaust and the resulting plume heats up the hose, or
something breaks loose in the engine compartment (I once had a factory
drip tray fall off during flight) and abbrases the oil hose?
I have been flying with the standard rubber hoses and barb fittings, but
when I took them off after one year I was glad I did so (one hose had
softened considerably and had became a bit sticky) and I feel much more
comfortable with my new "fancy" hoses. ;-)
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "hpreusser" <hpreusser(at)vtxmail.ch>
Subject: Aluminium Pipe for Fuel Inlet
Date: Nov 28, 2011
Hello Tim
Would like to have one too.
Regards Hans-Peter Reusser Kit # 498
Hans-Peter Reusser
Spiezbergstrasse 13
CH-3700 Spiez
Switzerland
T: +41 33 654 00 24
M: +41 78 748 00 24
Von: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] Im Auftrag von Tim Ward
Gesendet: Sonntag, 27. November 2011 19:58
An: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Betreff: Europa-List: Aluminium Pipe for Fuel Inlet
Hi Europa Builders,
I have had a request for more Aluminium pipes for the fuel Inlet between
the =9Ccobra=9D and the fuel tank.
Are there any other builders interested in one?
See the attachment.
Cheers,
Tim
Mono Classic #292 ZK-TIM
Tim Ward,
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch 8052
New Zealand
Ph; 03 3515166
Mob; 0210640221
email; ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Aluminium Pipe for Fuel Inlet
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Hello Hans Peter ,
That is fine. If you could send me a cheque (local is ok) for 45 Swiss franc
s and I will send it to you as soon as possible.
I have your address below so that is good.
Many thanks,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
On 29/11/2011, at 6:48 AM, "hpreusser" wrote:
> Hello Tim
>
> Would like to have one too.
>
> Regards Hans-Peter Reusser Kit # 498
>
> Hans-Peter Reusser
> Spiezbergstrasse 13
> CH-3700 Spiez
> Switzerland
> T: +41 33 654 00 24
> M: +41 78 748 00 24
>
>
> Von: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er(at)matronics.com] Im Auftrag von Tim Ward
> Gesendet: Sonntag, 27. November 2011 19:58
> An: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Betreff: Europa-List: Aluminium Pipe for Fuel Inlet
>
> Hi Europa Builders,
> I have had a request for more Aluminium pipes for the fuel Inlet between t
he =9Ccobra=9D and the fuel tank.
> Are there any other builders interested in one?
> See the attachment.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tim
> Mono Classic #292 ZK-TIM
>
> Tim Ward,
> 12 Waiwetu Street,
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch 8052
> New Zealand
>
> Ph; 03 3515166
> Mob; 0210640221
>
> email; ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just Two Days Left - Still Way Behind...
Dear Listers,
There are just two more days left in this years List Fund Raiser. Over the last
few weeks I have received some really nice comments from members on what the
Lists have meant to them. I have included some of them below. Please read over
the comments and ponder on your own feelings about the Lists and the support
and camaraderie you have found here.
We are still way behind last year in terms of the number of contributions. I really
want to keep providing these services to the homebuilt community, but it
take resources. Since there's no advertising budget or deep pockets to keep
the operation a float, its solely your generosity during the Fund Raiser that
keeps things going. Please make a Contribution today.
If you've been putting off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time
to do it!
Make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution
web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a check in the mail:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
==================== A Few List Member Comments =====================
I get a lot of useful information and satisfaction from belonging to
your groups. Somehow you foster a great sense of community without
the baggage that accompanies other lists.
Dave S.
We do appreciate you running the lists spam and advertising free.
Jeff P.
I am celebrating my first flight day and you and the lists deserve
a thanks since without it my build would have taken twice as long.
Chris L.
I enjoy the list. Have my morning coffee with it!
Buddy M.
Your lists are the best investment of my time and money, bar none,
when it comes to interfacing with my fellow amateur builders.
Owen B.
Keep it going!! Thanks for taking over.
Wallace J.
I enjoy the Pietenpol List a lot.
Malcolm Z.
Thanks for your great site! As a new CJ-6 owner, your web site is an
invaluable resource.
Ken B.
Great informational source.
Fred S.
Thanks for doing this!
Lance G.
Thank you for the service i do enjoy the many hours I use on line with
the banter/ serious technical items.
Noel G.
Thanks for the years of builder support.
Roy H.
Great forum!
Roger C.
Thank you VERY MUCH, Matt, for carrying on with this great service.
The "Europa" community really appreciates it. All the best, Svein - now
celebrating 10 years as a subscriber, I think!
Svein J.
Matt, I'm building a much nicer and safer airplane because of your efforts.
Robert D.
21 years for you 9 years for me on the Zenith lists. Could not imagine
building and flying without Matronics.
Brian U.
Thanks for ALL the hard work and time you put into maintaining these
forums. As an EAA Tech counselor I recommend them often.
Paul M.
This Pietenpol list is a huge part of the motivation that keeps me working
on my project. This has been a great place for meeting like minded folks
and getting help for the difficult parts.
Thomas S.
Thanks for the excellent service Matt.
Frank S.
Matt, I'm a Sonex building, but I have to say that the Piet group is without
a doubt the most interesting.
Ken M.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate the Piet List. This is one of my sanity
lifelines!
Daniel H.
Your site has provided us over the years with excellent connections to others
for advice. Good job!
Bob M.
Kolb List is my #1 source!
Henry V.
Matt, you do a great job with this site. I've been with it since the
beginning!
John M.
I am very grateful for all of your excellent work on the List.
Arthur L.
Thank you for the service you provide us all!
Nicholas C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Hi Frans,
Thanks for your thoughts.
I ended up calling Rotax Canada - they had the right hose and the firesleeves,
at quite a reasonable price. Lesson learned - ask Rotax first, then fan out.
Thanks to all those taking the time to address my question.
Christoph
Europa TRI CLASSIC 912S, SR3000-2 blade prop, in final assembly after 16 years
of slow building...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frans Veldman
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Diameter of 912 oil hose and oil hose type
On 11/28/2011 03:15 AM, Neville Eyre wrote:
> What I was [ poorly] trying to say is fancy Teflon / Stainless lines are
> not needed , and in fact difficult to hook up to the Rotax tank and
> motor connections with the Aeroquip / Earls type fittings and too stiff
> to run in the limited space easily.. [ and at 25 / $35 + an end !]
The link a gave earlier in this thread points to a hose that is light
weight, very flexible, and able to handle high temperatures.
Rubber hoses age and need to be replaced at least every five years, are
heavy, and not tolerant of very high temperatures. Normally you wouldn't
need the additional protection of a "fancy" hose, but what if you have a
crack in the exhaust and the resulting plume heats up the hose, or
something breaks loose in the engine compartment (I once had a factory
drip tray fall off during flight) and abbrases the oil hose?
I have been flying with the standard rubber hoses and barb fittings, but
when I took them off after one year I was glad I did so (one hose had
softened considerably and had became a bit sticky) and I feel much more
comfortable with my new "fancy" hoses. ;-)
Frans
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Hi All,
Finally managed to get to Donna at Rough River lodge as she's been on vacation.
She's the one that books the group blocks of rooms & cabins. When you call I
would ask for her.
I believe most everyone has agreed that the Labor Day weekend wasn't right and
most wanted to go as close to October as possible. So here's the deal... The weekend
of the 14th & 15th had sport aviation booked and not many rooms left. The
weekend of the 28th & 29th had no avails due to a large wedding so that left
us with either the 7&8th or the 21st & 22nd. So I went with the 21st & 22nd.
I hope you all agree. I know some have shown an interest in the 1st week of October
and the lodge has some opening's that weekend however going from memory
I think weather can start being more of a factor then. The 28th & 29th is wide
open as far as rooms go so unless I contact her we're good to go on that weekend.
She has set aside a block of rooms and cabins to cover us based on years
past but the sooner we each book the better we are. Last year was slow due to
weather & commitments so lets turn this around and make 2012 the best yet.
Hope this is good for you all. If we as a group feel we should change lets chime
in here and I'll get er done. I will also contact the weather gods early and
put our order in for a fabulous weekend and suggest you all do the same. Just
let me know and I'll start the list.
Best Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush.... Flying great once again.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Subject: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment bushes
I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Hi Jeff,
We can only thank you for your good works and attempt at controlling the
weather gods. However please can you confirm which week end we are going
for. You have left an ambiguity. Is it 21st & 22nd or 28th & 29th?
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Roberts
Sent: 29 November 2011 18:35
Subject: Europa-List: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
Hi All,
Finally managed to get to Donna at Rough River lodge as she's been on
vacation. She's the one that books the group blocks of rooms & cabins. When
you call I would ask for her.
I believe most everyone has agreed that the Labor Day weekend wasn't right
and most wanted to go as close to October as possible. So here's the deal...
The weekend of the 14th & 15th had sport aviation booked and not many rooms
left. The weekend of the 28th & 29th had no avails due to a large wedding so
that left us with either the 7&8th or the 21st & 22nd. So I went with the
21st & 22nd. I hope you all agree. I know some have shown an interest in the
1st week of October and the lodge has some opening's that weekend however
going from memory I think weather can start being more of a factor then. The
28th & 29th is wide open as far as rooms go so unless I contact her we're
good to go on that weekend. She has set aside a block of rooms and cabins to
cover us based on years past but the sooner we each book the better we are.
Last year was slow due to weather & commitments so lets turn this around and
make 2012 the best yet.
Hope this is good for you all. If we as a group feel we should change lets
chime in here and I'll get er done. I will also contact the weather gods
early and put our order in for a fabulous weekend and suggest you all do the
same. Just let me know and I'll start the list.
Best Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush.... Flying great once again.
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Hi Andrew,
The wing incidence is pre determined by the pre drilled bushes in both the
wing spars and the fuselage. The angle of attack does need to be set by
you. Parallel to the front of the seat back refers to both spars being
parallel to the seat back when viewed from ABOVE.
Hope this will give you a different view on the problem
Pete Europa club LAA inspector
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
Sent: 29 November 2011 18:57
Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Date: Nov 29, 2011
See thats what happens when I get in a hurry and more frequently as I get older.
It's the 21st & the 22nd.
Thanks for the correction Pete.
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
On Nov 29, 2011, at 1:18 PM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
>
> Hi Jeff,
> We can only thank you for your good works and attempt at controlling the
> weather gods. However please can you confirm which week end we are going
> for. You have left an ambiguity. Is it 21st & 22nd or 28th & 29th?
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Roberts
> Sent: 29 November 2011 18:35
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
>
>
> Hi All,
> Finally managed to get to Donna at Rough River lodge as she's been on
> vacation. She's the one that books the group blocks of rooms & cabins. When
> you call I would ask for her.
> I believe most everyone has agreed that the Labor Day weekend wasn't right
> and most wanted to go as close to October as possible. So here's the deal...
> The weekend of the 14th & 15th had sport aviation booked and not many rooms
> left. The weekend of the 28th & 29th had no avails due to a large wedding so
> that left us with either the 7&8th or the 21st & 22nd. So I went with the
> 21st & 22nd. I hope you all agree. I know some have shown an interest in the
> 1st week of October and the lodge has some opening's that weekend however
> going from memory I think weather can start being more of a factor then. The
> 28th & 29th is wide open as far as rooms go so unless I contact her we're
> good to go on that weekend. She has set aside a block of rooms and cabins to
> cover us based on years past but the sooner we each book the better we are.
> Last year was slow due to weather & commitments so lets turn this around and
> make 2012 the best yet.
> Hope this is good for you all. If we as a group feel we should change lets
> chime in here and I'll get er done. I will also contact the weather gods
> early and put our order in for a fabulous weekend and suggest you all do the
> same. Just let me know and I'll start the list.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush.... Flying great once again.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Hi Jeff & All,
>From your explanation of choice of dates being 7/8 or 21/22, I'm assuming that
the 2nd reference to 28th & 29th is in error and you actually mean 21st & 22nd.
Upon clarification, I will call Donna and reserve a room (as I hope to fly mine
up this year).
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Nov 29, 2011, at 12:34 PM, Jeffrey Roberts wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> Finally managed to get to Donna at Rough River lodge as she's been on vacation.
She's the one that books the group blocks of rooms & cabins. When you call
I would ask for her.
> I believe most everyone has agreed that the Labor Day weekend wasn't right and
most wanted to go as close to October as possible. So here's the deal... The
weekend of the 14th & 15th had sport aviation booked and not many rooms left.
The weekend of the 28th & 29th had no avails due to a large wedding so that left
us with either the 7&8th or the 21st & 22nd. So I went with the 21st & 22nd.
I hope you all agree. I know some have shown an interest in the 1st week of
October and the lodge has some opening's that weekend however going from memory
I think weather can start being more of a factor then. The 28th & 29th is wide
open as far as rooms go so unless I contact her we're good to go on that weekend.
She has set aside a block of rooms and cabins to cover us based on years
past but the sooner we each book the better we are. Last year was slow due
to weather & commitments so lets turn this around and make 2012 the best yet.
> Hope this is good for you all. If we as a group feel we should change lets chime
in here and I'll get er done. I will also contact the weather gods early and
put our order in for a fabulous weekend and suggest you all do the same. Just
let me know and I'll start the list.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush.... Flying great once again.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
Hi Pete,
Thanks for that response. It is good to know that the drilled holes
are predetermined for the correct angle. My concern actually arose
from reading others' posting that the the pins were difficult to
engage, which I assumed came from small twists during the angle
setting process. These are long bolts, so I suspect even a fraction of
a degree rotation would cause the holes to become misaligned. If I
could somehow verify using some reference points inside the cockpit
module that the bushes I am about to bond are actually at the correct
angle, that would be a great relief.
On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:24 PM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
> Hi Andrew,
>
> The wing incidence is pre determined by the pre drilled bushes in both the
> wing spars and the fuselage. The angle of attack does need to be set by
> you. Parallel to the front of the seat back refers to both spars being
> parallel to the seat back when viewed from ABOVE.
>
>
> Hope this will give you a different view on the problem
>
>
> Pete Europa club LAA inspector
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
> Sent: 29 November 2011 18:57
> To: Europa List
> Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
> bushes
>
>
> I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
>
> cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
>
> parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
>
> for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
>
> required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
>
> incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
>
> in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
>
> 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
>
> incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
>
> thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
>
>
> -----
>
> No virus found in this message.
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Hi Andrew,
It is a long time ago that I did this bit so my memory is a little hazy but
the pins are not actually a tight fit and the bushes themselves are quite
short. I have worked with a number of builders through this phase and none
have had a problem. To be quite honest none of them have really raised any
questions, they followed the instructions in the manual and all worked OK.
It is good that you have thought through and anticipated problems but in
this instance it probably seems worse than it is.
Pete Europa Club LAA inspector
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
Sent: 29 November 2011 19:55
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar
alignment bushes
Hi Pete,
Thanks for that response. It is good to know that the drilled holes
are predetermined for the correct angle. My concern actually arose
from reading others' posting that the the pins were difficult to
engage, which I assumed came from small twists during the angle
setting process. These are long bolts, so I suspect even a fraction of
a degree rotation would cause the holes to become misaligned. If I
could somehow verify using some reference points inside the cockpit
module that the bushes I am about to bond are actually at the correct
angle, that would be a great relief.
On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:24 PM, Peter Jeffers
wrote:
> Hi Andrew,
>
> The wing incidence is pre determined by the pre drilled bushes in both the
> wing spars and the fuselage. The angle of attack does need to be set by
> you. Parallel to the front of the seat back refers to both spars being
> parallel to the seat back when viewed from ABOVE.
>
>
> Hope this will give you a different view on the problem
>
>
> Pete Europa club LAA inspector
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Sarangan
> Sent: 29 November 2011 18:57
> To: Europa List
> Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar
alignment
> bushes
>
>
> I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
>
> cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
>
> parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
>
> for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
>
> required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
>
> incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
>
> in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
>
> 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
>
> incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
>
> thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
>
>
> -----
>
> No virus found in this message.
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
Date: Nov 29, 2011
Jeff,
Thank you for the clarification. That weekend may just put it out of range
for us coming from the UK. One of our daughters is getting married just days
before that and we had hoped to come to Florida first so that we could drive
up to RR from there to support N283JL.
We will have to wait till nearer the time for a final decision.
Pete & Sue
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Roberts
Sent: 29 November 2011 19:35
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
See thats what happens when I get in a hurry and more frequently as I get
older. It's the 21st & the 22nd.
Thanks for the correction Pete.
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
On Nov 29, 2011, at 1:18 PM, Peter Jeffers wrote:
>
> Hi Jeff,
> We can only thank you for your good works and attempt at controlling the
> weather gods. However please can you confirm which week end we are going
> for. You have left an ambiguity. Is it 21st & 22nd or 28th & 29th?
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey
Roberts
> Sent: 29 November 2011 18:35
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Rough River Dates September 21st & 22nd
>
>
> Hi All,
> Finally managed to get to Donna at Rough River lodge as she's been on
> vacation. She's the one that books the group blocks of rooms & cabins.
When
> you call I would ask for her.
> I believe most everyone has agreed that the Labor Day weekend wasn't right
> and most wanted to go as close to October as possible. So here's the
deal...
> The weekend of the 14th & 15th had sport aviation booked and not many
rooms
> left. The weekend of the 28th & 29th had no avails due to a large wedding
so
> that left us with either the 7&8th or the 21st & 22nd. So I went with the
> 21st & 22nd. I hope you all agree. I know some have shown an interest in
the
> 1st week of October and the lodge has some opening's that weekend however
> going from memory I think weather can start being more of a factor then.
The
> 28th & 29th is wide open as far as rooms go so unless I contact her we're
> good to go on that weekend. She has set aside a block of rooms and cabins
to
> cover us based on years past but the sooner we each book the better we
are.
> Last year was slow due to weather & commitments so lets turn this around
and
> make 2012 the best yet.
> Hope this is good for you all. If we as a group feel we should change lets
> chime in here and I'll get er done. I will also contact the weather gods
> early and put our order in for a fabulous weekend and suggest you all do
the
> same. Just let me know and I'll start the list.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush.... Flying great once again.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Andrew,
I shared your dilemma when at the same stage.
A couple of pertinent points that may assist ......
1 When the cockpit module is installed, the seat back is reclined at 2.5 degrees
to the horizontal axis of the aircraft hence the need to set up the spars parallel
to the seat back..
2 You will find that the bushes you have to fit are quite a sloppy fit on the main
wing pins which allows for considerable tolerance.
3 I'm fairly sure the 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees reference is in relation to each wing
rather than the incidence setting overall.
If you go ahead as per the manual taking as much care as you can, you can expect
things to turn out like you hope.
All the best
Kingsley
Sent from my iPhone
On 30/11/2011, at 4:57 AM, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
> I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
> cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
> parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
> for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
> required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
> incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
> in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
> 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
> incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
> thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers,
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of them, in fact! But it also means that its that last official day of the
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Below are a few more of the nice comments from Listers I've received this year.
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Thank you to all in advance!
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Andrew, A couple of points possibly of value :
1) When setting up the wings the manual (or at least my version of it) talks
about checking that the distance from wing tip to tail on each side is the
same. This manoevre led me to all sorts of confusion, which was only settled
when I realised that there is only one sensible location for the spars and
that is tight against the seat back. You definitely do not want the spars
set back from the seat back with the spar pins bridging the gap, which would
be asking the spar pins to do more than they are designed for. I would
advise setting up the spars with some pieces of wood jammed behind them in
the tunnel to ensure they are tight aginst the seat back. If one wing tip is
a 1/2" closer to the tail than the other it is because the fueslage or your
fixing of the cockpit module is less than absolutely symmetrical, but it is
of no consequence.
2) The location of the spars gives an approximation to the right
rigging angle for the wings, but the precise angle is set by your
positioning of the lift pins. I would strongly recommend buying or borrowing
a Smartool (which measures to 1/10 degree, to ensure that you get the two
wings set as close the same angle as possible. Even a small difference in
rigging angle will of course leave you with an irritating lateral trim issue
and quite possibly to a built in tendency to drop a wing in the stall.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Sarangan" <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 6:57 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
>
> I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
> cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
> parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
> for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
> required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
> incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
> in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
> 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
> incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
> thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Moulding material
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Gidday,
I am attempting to remould my door tang fuselage recesses, with the doors open
and the top off the fuselage, doors on. I have only opened up the original recesses
on their inboard ends, leaving the hing attachment areas as original. The
door tangs protrude up into the space and I could always spend hours gluing
pieces of foam onto the tangs when taped, and then try and tidy up their shapes,
then glass over the top of that and in time dissolve the foam. I am wondering
if there is another way, maybe using glad wrap, thin plastic sandwich wrap,
and modelling clay. I am wondering if anyone has a moulding material that is
easy to shape, and easy to dissolve away leaving a nice surface afterwards. If
not, well I'll just struggle on but there must be an easier way that currently
escapes me.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
Hi Andrew,
It's great to hear you've got back at it! Are you going to be updating
your website again?
My status? Sadly still at 1% due to about 10 false starts due to life.
Just bought into a 1946 Canuck tho (created the not for profit "Heritage
Fun Fliers Inc", so I'm back flying after a 10 year absence. Quite the
motivator! Now that the snag list on the Canuck is gone, I'm about to try
for #11, but this time with the Canuck to spur me onwards, I plan to keep
at it. My website has also been dead for about 10 years too.
Cheers & blue skies,
Pete :)
On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:54 PM, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
> Hi Pete,
> Thanks for that response. It is good to know that the drilled holes
> are predetermined for the correct angle. My concern actually arose
> from reading others' posting that the the pins were difficult to
> engage, which I assumed came from small twists during the angle
> setting process. These are long bolts, so I suspect even a fraction of
> a degree rotation would cause the holes to become misaligned. If I
> could somehow verify using some reference points inside the cockpit
> module that the bushes I am about to bond are actually at the correct
> angle, that would be a great relief.
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:24 PM, Peter Jeffers
> wrote:
> > Hi Andrew,
> >
> > The wing incidence is pre determined by the pre drilled bushes in both
> the
> > wing spars and the fuselage. The angle of attack does need to be set by
> > you. Parallel to the front of the seat back refers to both spars being
> > parallel to the seat back when viewed from ABOVE.
> >
> >
> >
> > Hope this will give you a different view on the problem
> >
> >
> >
> > Pete Europa club LAA inspector
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Sarangan
> > Sent: 29 November 2011 18:57
> > To: Europa List
> > Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar
> alignment
> > bushes
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
> >
> > cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
> >
> > parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
> >
> > for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
> >
> > required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
> >
> > incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
> >
> > in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
> >
> > 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
> >
> > incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
> >
> > thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> >
> > No virus found in this message.
> >
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
Sorry all, wasn't meant for the list.
Guess that means I *gotta* keep at it now ;-)
Cheers,
Pete
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 6:25 AM, Peter Zutrauen wrote:
> Hi Andrew,
>
> It's great to hear you've got back at it! Are you going to be updating
> your website again?
>
> My status? Sadly still at 1% due to about 10 false starts due to life.
> Just bought into a 1946 Canuck tho (created the not for profit "Heritage
> Fun Fliers Inc", so I'm back flying after a 10 year absence. Quite the
> motivator! Now that the snag list on the Canuck is gone, I'm about to try
> for #11, but this time with the Canuck to spur me onwards, I plan to keep
> at it. My website has also been dead for about 10 years too.
>
> Cheers & blue skies,
> Pete :)
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:54 PM, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Pete,
>> Thanks for that response. It is good to know that the drilled holes
>> are predetermined for the correct angle. My concern actually arose
>> from reading others' posting that the the pins were difficult to
>> engage, which I assumed came from small twists during the angle
>> setting process. These are long bolts, so I suspect even a fraction of
>> a degree rotation would cause the holes to become misaligned. If I
>> could somehow verify using some reference points inside the cockpit
>> module that the bushes I am about to bond are actually at the correct
>> angle, that would be a great relief.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:24 PM, Peter Jeffers
>> wrote:
>> > Hi Andrew,
>> >
>> > The wing incidence is pre determined by the pre drilled bushes in both
>> the
>> > wing spars and the fuselage. The angle of attack does need to be set by
>> > you. Parallel to the front of the seat back refers to both spars being
>> > parallel to the seat back when viewed from ABOVE.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Hope this will give you a different view on the problem
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Pete Europa club LAA inspector
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
>> Sarangan
>> > Sent: 29 November 2011 18:57
>> > To: Europa List
>> > Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar
>> alignment
>> > bushes
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
>> >
>> > cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
>> >
>> > parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
>> >
>> > for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
>> >
>> > required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
>> >
>> > incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
>> >
>> > in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
>> >
>> > 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
>> >
>> > incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
>> >
>> > thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -----
>> >
>> > No virus found in this message.
>> >
>> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
From: PHILLIPS I <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Pete
That will be the only way you will get it finished :-)
best wishes on the the 11 start and it will be worth it when complete,
Regards
Ivor phillips
G-IVER
On 30 November 2011 11:26, Peter Zutrauen wrote:
> Sorry all, wasn't meant for the list.
>
> Guess that means I *gotta* keep at it now ;-)
>
> Cheers,
> Pete
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 6:25 AM, Peter Zutrauen wrote:
>
>> Hi Andrew,
>>
>> It's great to hear you've got back at it! Are you going to be updating
>> your website again?
>>
>> My status? Sadly still at 1% due to about 10 false starts due to
>> life. Just bought into a 1946 Canuck tho (created the not for profit
>> "Heritage Fun Fliers Inc", so I'm back flying after a 10 year absence.
>> Quite the motivator! Now that the snag list on the Canuck is gone, I'm
>> about to try for #11, but this time with the Canuck to spur me onwards, I
>> plan to keep at it. My website has also been dead for about 10 years too.
>>
>> Cheers & blue skies,
>> Pete :)
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:54 PM, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Pete,
>>> Thanks for that response. It is good to know that the drilled holes
>>> are predetermined for the correct angle. My concern actually arose
>>> from reading others' posting that the the pins were difficult to
>>> engage, which I assumed came from small twists during the angle
>>> setting process. These are long bolts, so I suspect even a fraction of
>>> a degree rotation would cause the holes to become misaligned. If I
>>> could somehow verify using some reference points inside the cockpit
>>> module that the bushes I am about to bond are actually at the correct
>>> angle, that would be a great relief.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 2:24 PM, Peter Jeffers
>>> wrote:
>>> > Hi Andrew,
>>> >
>>> > The wing incidence is pre determined by the pre drilled bushes in both
>>> the
>>> > wing spars and the fuselage. The angle of attack does need to be set
>>> by
>>> > you. Parallel to the front of the seat back refers to both spars being
>>> > parallel to the seat back when viewed from ABOVE.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Hope this will give you a different view on the problem
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Pete Europa club LAA inspector
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > -----Original Message-----
>>> > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
>>> Sarangan
>>> > Sent: 29 November 2011 18:57
>>> > To: Europa List
>>> > Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar
>>> alignment
>>> > bushes
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> asarangan(at)gmail.com>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
>>> >
>>> > cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
>>> >
>>> > parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
>>> >
>>> > for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
>>> >
>>> > required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
>>> >
>>> > incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
>>> >
>>> > in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
>>> >
>>> > 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
>>> >
>>> > incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
>>> >
>>> > thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > -----
>>> >
>>> > No virus found in this message.
>>> >
>>> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
So, if I am understanding it correctly - set the spars firmly against
the seat-back, then set the seat-back perfectly square against the
canoe side walls when bonding the cockpit module, then all should be
ok.
If the manual had a stated that the seatback is already set at 2.5
degrees inclination this question would not have come up at all. I
have found this in several areas of the manual. It tells you what to
do but leaves out the why. It might be useful someday to create a user
commentary addendum for each chapter, based on the insights and
experience from other builders. May be that is something I can work on
in the future.
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 5:29 AM, David Joyce wrote:
>
> Andrew, A couple of points possibly of value :
> 1) When setting up the wings the manual (or at least my version of it) talks
> about checking that the distance from wing tip to tail on each side is the
> same. This manoevre led me to all sorts of confusion, which was only settled
> when I realised that there is only one sensible location for the spars and
> that is tight against the seat back. You definitely do not want the spars
> set back from the seat back with the spar pins bridging the gap, which would
> be asking the spar pins to do more than they are designed for. I would
> advise setting up the spars with some pieces of wood jammed behind them in
> the tunnel to ensure they are tight aginst the seat back. If one wing tip is
> a 1/2" closer to the tail than the other it is because the fueslage or your
> fixing of the cockpit module is less than absolutely symmetrical, but it is
> of no consequence.
> 2) The location of the spars gives an approximation to the right rigging
> angle for the wings, but the precise angle is set by your positioning of the
> lift pins. I would strongly recommend buying or borrowing a Smartool (which
> measures to 1/10 degree, to ensure that you get the two wings set as close
> the same angle as possible. Even a small difference in rigging angle will of
> course leave you with an irritating lateral trim issue and quite possibly to
> a built in tendency to drop a wing in the stall.
> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Sarangan" <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
> To: "Europa List"
> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 6:57 PM
>
> Subject: Europa-List: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
> bushes
>
>
>>
>> I am about to embark on bonding the spar alignment bushes into the
>> cockpit module (chapter 14). The manual says to set the wing spar
>> parallel to the front of the seat back, and that this is good enough
>> for now. That seems rather arbitrary to me, given that the tolerance
>> required later is 2.5 +/- 0.05 degrees. I am confused how the angle of
>> incidence can be adjusted in the future with the bushes already bonded
>> in. Would it not be best if the bushes are bonded after setting the
>> 2.5 deg incidence? But then I am uncertain how to infer the angle of
>> incidence with the cockpit module sitting face down on the floor. Any
>> thoughts from experienced builders would be appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Revised Letter for RR Dates September 21st & 22nd
Date: Nov 30, 2011
1st let me say I corrected my error on the letter below. If enough of you chime
in and wish to move the date to October 4th & 5th I'll see what I can do. Now
would be the time. 21st & 22nd had the most available as far as cabins & rooms
but the 4th & 5th could work. Maybe some voting here?
Hi All,
Finally managed to get to Donna at Rough River lodge as she's been on vacation.
She's the one that books the group blocks of rooms & cabins. When you call I
would ask for her.
I believe most everyone has agreed that the Labor Day weekend wasn't right and
most wanted to go as close to October as possible. So here's the deal... The weekend
of the 14th & 15th had sport aviation booked and not many rooms left. The
weekend of the 28th & 29th had no avails due to a large wedding so that left
us with either the 7&8th or the 21st & 22nd. So I went with the 21st & 22nd.
I hope you all agree. I know some have shown an interest in the 1st week of October
and the lodge has some opening's that weekend however going from memory
I think weather can start being more of a factor then. The 21st & 22nd is wide
open as far as rooms go so unless I contact her we're good to go on that weekend.
She has set aside a block of rooms and cabins to cover us based on years
past but the sooner we each book the better we are. Last year was slow due to
weather & commitments so lets turn this around and make 2012 the best yet.
Hope this is good for you all. If we as a group feel we should change lets chime
in here and I'll get er done. I will also contact the weather gods early and
put our order in for a fabulous weekend and suggest you all do the same. Just
let me know and I'll start the list.
Best Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush.... Flying great once again.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: RR Rain Or Sun
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Click on this link and scroll down. It shows September is the best month for no
rain but October is 2nd best so if changing the dates to October the 4th & 5th
would get more of us there let me know and we'll do it.
http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/USKY0912
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2011
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: RR Rain Or Sun
Jeff-
I know that the October dates would be better for Tony and Peter, and it would
really be nice to have them.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 10:21:48 AM
Subject: Europa-List: RR Rain Or Sun
Click on this link and scroll down. It shows September is the best month for no
rain but October is 2nd best so if changing the dates to October the 4th & 5th
would get more of us there let me know and we'll do it.
http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/USKY0912
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2011
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Chattering brakes
I used the kit-furnished Jamar brake cylinders and Matco calipers. The brakes work
fine, but there is about 1/8 play if you wiggle the calipers, and they chatter
like crazy while in motion. If I exert just enough pressure to move the pucks
a little, the chatter disappears. It appears to me that there is too much
play in the calipers, but we checked the drawings, and everything is installed
properly.
Any ideas?
Jim Puglise
N283JL, now at 10.2 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Moulding material
Date: Dec 01, 2011
There is tony, I'll email you later with how I did it, got to run to work
now
Craig
goldcoast
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 8:35 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Moulding material
Gidday,
I am attempting to remould my door tang fuselage recesses, with the doors
open and the top off the fuselage, doors on. I have only opened up the
original recesses on their inboard ends, leaving the hing attachment areas
as original. The door tangs protrude up into the space and I could always
spend hours gluing pieces of foam onto the tangs when taped, and then try
and tidy up their shapes, then glass over the top of that and in time
dissolve the foam. I am wondering if there is another way, maybe using glad
wrap, thin plastic sandwich wrap, and modelling clay. I am wondering if
anyone has a moulding material that is easy to shape, and easy to dissolve
away leaving a nice surface afterwards. If not, well I'll just struggle on
but there must be an easier way that currently escapes me.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie.
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2011
Subject: Re: Chattering brakes
From: PHILLIPS I <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Hi Jim
just a thought have you fitted the four spacers for the torque plate and
brake pads
I also used some copperslip between the spacers for lubrcation, another
problem i had in the early days was the allen screws hold the discs to the
wheels became loose even with the locking wire, this caused some noise when
taxying, solved it by using loctite and locking wire,
regards
ivor
G-IVER
On 30 November 2011 17:58, wrote:
> I used the kit-furnished Jamar brake cylinders and Matco calipers. The
> brakes work fine, but there is about 1/8 play if you wiggle the calipers,
> and they chatter like crazy while in motion. If I exert just enough
> pressure to move the pucks a little, the chatter disappears. It appears to
> me that there is too much play in the calipers, but we checked the
> drawings, and everything is installed properly.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jim Puglise
> N283JL, now at 10.2 hours
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2011
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: Setting angle of incidence for bonding spar alignment
bushes
Andrew,
Whether it did any good I don't know (yet), but I painted the fitting
bolts (enlarging their diameter) before fitting the cockpit module
bushes to the spars - hoping to increase future wiggle room for the spar
pins.
Jan de Jong
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: RR Rain Or Sun
Date: Nov 30, 2011
I'll work on it tomorrow and let you all know. I agree we need them all
to come.
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
On Nov 30, 2011, at 11:45 AM, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Jeff-
>
> I know that the October dates would be better for Tony and Peter, and
it would really be nice to have them.
>
> Jim
>
> From: "Jeffrey Roberts" <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 10:21:48 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: RR Rain Or Sun
>
>
> Click on this link and scroll down. It shows September is the best
month for no rain but October is 2nd best so if changing the dates to
October the 4th & 5th would get more of us there let me know and we'll
do it.
>
> http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/USKY0912
>
>
> ===
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Rough River Revised Date
Date: Dec 01, 2011
Hi All,
In an effort to help all that want to attend I'm attempting to move the date for
our RR fly in to October 5th & 6th. I should have conformation back today and
I will forward it to you. Please hold off calling for any rooms till I post
officially the revision. Lets all make this a big one.
Regards,
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kjell Skogeland" <kjell.skogeland(at)telia.com>
Subject:
Date: Dec 01, 2011
test
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Fwd: Europa Fly IN Revised date Oct. 45th & 6th
Date: Dec 01, 2011
Europa Flyers,
We have moved the date for the 2012 Europa Fly In at Rough River to
October 5th & 6th. I hope this helps all to attend. As you can see by
Donna's response below the lodging selection will be a little shorter
however there is plenty available as of now. I would suggest we all that
plan on attending get into action and book your cabin or room. I checked
again with the weather gods... AKA weather.com and it seems the
likelihood of a nice weekend is good. Again... the new date is October
5th & 6th 2012.
Hope to see you all there. It would be nice to see you west cost boys
again! ;-)
Best
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
>
>
> On Dec 1, 2011, at 11:25 AM, Clark, Donna F (Parks) wrote:
>
>
> Lodging is a little shorter.
> For October 5-6
> 10 lodge rooms
> 4 Standard Cottages
> 1 Executive Cottage 'Handicapped Assailable (no oven)
> Prices are still the same
> I have no other cottages available for Oct.5-6,2012
> Let me know if this works if it does, I will resent the contract
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2011
Subject: Annual Dinner
From: Nigel Graham <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
An unashamed plug for the Europa Club, This is perhaps, mainly
appropriate to UK based readers, but if circumstances allow =93 all
are welcome.
Every year, the Europa club organises an =9CAnnual Dinner=9D,
usually in late January, to give the members and their wives/partners
the opportunity to meet up in a stylish hotel, play golf, enjoy the
spa and generally socialise. We try to keep the topic of
conversation away from =9CAviation=9D so as not to bore the lad
ies,
but occasionally =9Cflying=9D does get discussed.
This year we have as guest speaker, Ivan Shaw, creator of the
Europa, who has kindly agreed to share some of the secrets of the
trials and tribulations of the early days of the Europa=99s
development during the frenetic three years of development. This
should be fascinating, particularly to those owners that that bought
their aircraft ready built and did not have the =9Cpleasure=9D
of
building! He has also agreed to give an insight into the development
of the glider wing. The talk is scheduled to start at 16.00 (before
dinner)
The venue is The Hillidon Lakes Hotel, Hellidon, Daventry NN11 6GG
(Google =9CThe Hillidon Lakes Hotel=9D) and the Date is Saturda
y 21st
January 2012.
If you=99re a member of the club but have never considered joining
in, now would be an ideal excuse. If you=99re not yet a member of the
club but you would like to attend, now would be an ideal opportunity
to join and benefit from half price membership (just =C2=A38 until next
April ). We would love to welcome you to this and the many other
flying, eating and socialising events that are being organised for
the coming year.
To book a Table at the dinner, please e-mail:
irene.watson(at)ntlworld.com [1]
To book a room at the hotel, e-mail: hellidonlakes(at)QHotels.co.uk [2]
(mention =9CEuropa Club=9D for a discount rate)
To Join the club, please e-mail: memsec(at)europaclub.org.uk [3]
Apologies again for the plug, but we really would welcome as many
new faces as possible.
Nigel
Links:
------
[1] mailto:irene.watson(at)ntlworld.com
[2] mailto:hellidonlakes(at)QHotels.co.uk
[3] mailto:memsec(at)europaclub.org.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2011
Subject: Re: Annual Dinner
Could someone please video tape this landmark event? I'd be very grateful
to get a copy of the vid!
Cheers & Blue skies,
Pete :-D
A239
Ottawa, Canada
On Fri, Dec 2, 2011 at 11:12 AM, Nigel Graham
<nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>wrote:
>
> An unashamed plug for the Europa Club, This is perhaps, mainly appropriat
e
> to UK based readers, but if circumstances allow ' all are welcome.*****
*
>
> Every year, the Europa club organises an =93Annual Dinner=94, usually in
late
> January, to give the members and their wives/partners the opportunity to
> meet up in a stylish hotel, play golf, enjoy the spa and generally
> socialise. We try to keep the topic of conversation away from =93Aviatio
n=94
> so as not to bore the ladies, but occasionally =93flying=94 does get disc
ussed.
> ****
>
> This year we have as guest speaker, Ivan Shaw, creator of the Europa, who
> has kindly agreed to share some of the secrets of the trials and
> tribulations of the early days of the Europa=92s development during the
> frenetic three years of development. This should be fascinating,
> particularly to those owners that that bought their aircraft ready built
> and did not have the =93pleasure=94 of building! He has also agreed to g
ive
> an insight into the development of the glider wing. The talk is scheduled
> to start at 16.00 (before dinner) ****
>
> The venue is The Hillidon Lakes Hotel, Hellidon, Daventry NN11 6GG (Googl
e
> =93The Hillidon Lakes Hotel=94) and the Date is Saturday 21st January 201
2.***
> *
>
> If you=92re a member of the club but have never considered joining in, no
w
> would be an ideal excuse. If you=92re not yet a member of the club but yo
u
> would like to attend, now would be an ideal opportunity to join and benef
it
> from half price membership (just =A38 until next April ). We would love t
o
> welcome you to this and the many other flying, eating and socialising
> events that are being organised for the coming year.****
>
> To book a Table at the dinner, please e-mail: irene.watson(at)ntlworld.com**
*
> *
>
> To book a room at the hotel, e-mail: hellidonlakes(at)QHotels.co.uk (mention
> =93Europa Club=94 for a discount rate)****
>
> To Join the club, please e-mail: memsec(at)europaclub.org.uk****
>
> Apologies again for the plug, but we really would welcome as many new
> faces as possible.****
>
> Nigel****
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Calling Robert Frost.....
Date: Dec 03, 2011
Hi! Robert Frost please note that your new e-mail address doesn't work
........I copied and pasted it in to a message and demon mailer has said it
is a bad host destination.
Send me a message again please Robert. Since \I already deleted your older
and working one !
Regards
Bob Harrison.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: GPS...
Date: Dec 03, 2011
Some time ago I bought a "Gizmo" receptacle for a Garmin 396/496 which
I'd confidently installed on my central sub panel...alas, it appears
that Garmin no longer is making those models.
I'd been attracted to its size, versatility, functionality, relatively
low cost, and its seemingly wide spread use and satisfaction by Europa
buddies.
So in today's market, I'm wondering if anyone would venture an opinion
on currently manufactured GPS units as to whether or not they offer
significant additional functionality...(?).
My anticipated set up should serve for day/night VFR flight only, and
will be based around a Dynon Skyview EFIS (7" screen) w/ 2.25" dia.
back up ALT & ASI gauges. Panel will have a separate EMS from RWS
which integrates with the RWS ECU which manages my MPEFI'ed
aftermarket Sube-based powerplant.
Skyview allows for split screen PFD/moving map...though Dynon promises
future software updates for a fully functioning moving map sectional
chart display, currently the moving map only shows terrain and heading.
Although I like the idea of an always-on, separate screen, my hunch is
that a stand-alone GPS will just be serving as back up once I have the
Skyview moving map update. If that's so, I'm tempted to find a used
396/496.
Comments or advice most welcome,
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2011
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: GPS...
Fred-
I have the Air Gizmos receptacle and 396 in my plane. I have seen all sorts of
396 / 496 Garmins for sale through Sportys and other pilot shops. In fact, they
appear to be real steals now. I paid over $ 2,000 for mine and I think I have
seen them for 5-600.
Jim Puglise
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Klein" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2011 5:53:53 PM
Subject: Europa-List: GPS...
Some time ago I bought a "Gizmo" receptacle for a Garmin 396/496 which
I'd confidently installed on my central sub panel...alas, it appears
that Garmin no longer is making those models.
I'd been attracted to its size, versatility, functionality, relatively
low cost, and its seemingly wide spread use and satisfaction by Europa
buddies.
So in today's market, I'm wondering if anyone would venture an opinion
on currently manufactured GPS units as to whether or not they offer
significant additional functionality...(?).
My anticipated set up should serve for day/night VFR flight only, and
will be based around a Dynon Skyview EFIS (7" screen) w/ 2.25" dia.
back up ALT & ASI gauges. Panel will have a separate EMS from RWS
which integrates with the RWS ECU which manages my MPEFI'ed
aftermarket Sube-based powerplant.
Skyview allows for split screen PFD/moving map...though Dynon promises
future software updates for a fully functioning moving map sectional
chart display, currently the moving map only shows terrain and heading.
Although I like the idea of an always-on, separate screen, my hunch is
that a stand-alone GPS will just be serving as back up once I have the
Skyview moving map update. If that's so, I'm tempted to find a used
396/496.
Comments or advice most welcome,
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: GPS...
Date: Dec 03, 2011
Fred,
I agree with Jim. There are plenty of used (and a few new) 396 & 496 out there
and they can be excellent bargains. For a real good price, I picked up a used
496 last year expecting just a 496, wall charger and carrying case. What came
was a 496, spare rod antenna, little square antenna with window mount, XM weather
antenna, bean bag mount, wall charger, auto charger with speaker, carrying
case and a couple other pieces I can't remember off the top of my head right
now. I had to put a new battery in it, but still, WHAT A BARGAIN!
I bought Air Gizmo panel mount & XM antenna mount that allows the antenna to be
moved from plane to plane (the XM Antenna is what you register with XM to get
weather) so I can use the unit in my Europa or my Toot (should it ever be finished)
and have weather in both without extra costs.
Do some searching and see what you can come up with.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Europa XS, Short Wing, Intercooled Rotax 914
rlborger(at)mac.com
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Dec 3, 2011, at 4:53 PM, Fred Klein wrote:
>
> Some time ago I bought a "Gizmo" receptacle for a Garmin 396/496 which I'd confidently
installed on my central sub panel...alas, it appears that Garmin no
longer is making those models.
>
> I'd been attracted to its size, versatility, functionality, relatively low cost,
and its seemingly wide spread use and satisfaction by Europa buddies.
>
> So in today's market, I'm wondering if anyone would venture an opinion on currently
manufactured GPS units as to whether or not they offer significant additional
functionality...(?).
>
> My anticipated set up should serve for day/night VFR flight only, and will be
based around a Dynon Skyview EFIS (7" screen) w/ 2.25" dia. back up ALT & ASI
gauges. Panel will have a separate EMS from RWS which integrates with the RWS
ECU which manages my MPEFI'ed aftermarket Sube-based powerplant.
>
> Skyview allows for split screen PFD/moving map...though Dynon promises future
software updates for a fully functioning moving map sectional chart display,
currently the moving map only shows terrain and heading.
>
> Although I like the idea of an always-on, separate screen, my hunch is that a
stand-alone GPS will just be serving as back up once I have the Skyview moving
map update. If that's so, I'm tempted to find a used 396/496.
>
> Comments or advice most welcome,
>
> Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Chattering brakes
Date: Dec 03, 2011
Jim,
Because we let our planes sit so long and so much dirt builds up on our
wheels and brakes, obviously clean the slide pins and caliper bushes. I
am sure your disk is installed correct and runs true. Roll the plane
slowly and look at the disc track and caliper and check that all runs
true. See the Matco website for tips in installation and caliper
alignment. I have always just slid the caliper where it fit, but there
is actually a procedure. See :
http://static.veracart.com/matco/item_pdfs/2665/document1.pdf
ic.veracart.com/matco/item_pdfs/2665/document1.pdf> I have never
needed to lube the caliper slide pins, just a good cleaning and
alignment is all that is normally needed.
Next be sure to clean the disk well. Yours truly squirted Dot 5
silicone fluid on the disk during my bleed and sure enough, less than
smooth performance and a required change of the pad due to poor braking
quality. A good cleaning was all that was needed.
Lastly, the Jamar doesn't normally transmit the vibration of the caliper
if the adjustment forks that attach to your handles are screwed out a
bit. If they are screwed down (toward the cylinder) until the pucks
move in a bit holding slight pressure then your direct hydraulic
transmission of the caliper movement will be quite noticeable.
Congrats on your good looking plane and here's hoping the fly off and
engine break in goes well.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net<mailto:jimpuglise(at)comcast.net>
To: Europa List
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 12:58 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Chattering brakes
I used the kit-furnished Jamar brake cylinders and Matco calipers.
The brakes work fine, but there is about 1/8 play if you wiggle the
calipers, and they chatter like crazy while in motion. If I exert just
enough pressure to move the pucks a little, the chatter disappears. It
appears to me that there is too much play in the calipers, but we
checked the drawings, and everything is installed properly.
Any ideas?
Jim Puglise
N283JL, now at 10.2 hours
www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Hardware Failure - Matronics Web Servers Currently Offline
failure and is currently not available. Replacement hardware has been ordered
and should arrive on Tuesday 12/6/2011. All services should be restored
shortly there after.
During the outage, the Matronics Forums, Wiki, and other web-based List services
will NOT be available.
However, during the outage, all normal EMAIL based sevices WILL be available so
you may continue to post messages to the various lists without an issue.
I am so sorry for any inconvenience this web server outage has caused...
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Iddon <riddon(at)sent.com>
Subject: SB's & AD's etc.
Date: Dec 04, 2011
Hi guys,
I am just recommissioning my XS tri with 912S after being out of the country for
8 months and wondered if there have been any SB's or AD's etc which I need to
comply with before renewing my permit. I have looked on the Europa Aircraft
and Rotax web sites and can find nothing there.
Richard Iddon
G-RIXS XS Tri gear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: SB's & AD's etc.
Date: Dec 04, 2011
Richard
The only ones I am aware of is for the glider wings (SB17 & 18)
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 December 2011 08:47
Subject: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Hi guys,
I am just recommissioning my XS tri with 912S after being out of the country
for 8 months and wondered if there have been any SB's or AD's etc which I
need to comply with before renewing my permit. I have looked on the Europa
Aircraft and Rotax web sites and can find nothing there.
Richard Iddon
G-RIXS XS Tri gear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: SB's & AD's etc.
Date: Dec 04, 2011
Hi Richard,
Welcome home. We just got back from Florida and are finding the short days
rather limiting.
Re AD's There are two from Rotax which is are made mandatory AD's by the
CAA. They will probably will not apply to your engine but you will need to
check. One concerns a washer in the gear box and the other (very recent)
concerns a crankshaft inspection for potential cracks.
The last one arose from a batch of crankshafts with a manufacturing fault.
No new AD's on Tri Gears or Mono's
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 December 2011 08:47
Subject: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Hi guys,
I am just recommissioning my XS tri with 912S after being out of the country
for 8 months and wondered if there have been any SB's or AD's etc which I
need to comply with before renewing my permit. I have looked on the Europa
Aircraft and Rotax web sites and can find nothing there.
Richard Iddon
G-RIXS XS Tri gear
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: SB's & AD's etc.
Date: Dec 04, 2011
Richard,
Lately a big AD on Rotax crankshaft but equally big chance it won't affect your
engine.
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
On 4/12/2011, at 9:47 PM, Richard Iddon wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I am just recommissioning my XS tri with 912S after being out of the country
for 8 months and wondered if there have been any SB's or AD's etc which I need
to comply with before renewing my permit. I have looked on the Europa Aircraft
and Rotax web sites and can find nothing there.
>
> Richard Iddon
>
> G-RIXS XS Tri gear
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: SB's & AD's etc.
Date: Dec 04, 2011
Richard/Peter ...........with respect I think the washer was at the other
end ? or am I thinking bloody Jabiru still !!!!! If it was a washer in the
gearbox I may have the problem ?!!! Don't rely on what |I say Richard.
Regards and Compliments of the season to you all.
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Jeffers
Sent: 04 December 2011 09:36
Subject: RE: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Hi Richard,
Welcome home. We just got back from Florida and are finding the short days
rather limiting.
Re AD's There are two from Rotax which is are made mandatory AD's by the
CAA. They will probably will not apply to your engine but you will need to
check. One concerns a washer in the gear box and the other (very recent)
concerns a crankshaft inspection for potential cracks.
The last one arose from a batch of crankshafts with a manufacturing fault.
No new AD's on Tri Gears or Mono's
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 December 2011 08:47
Subject: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Hi guys,
I am just recommissioning my XS tri with 912S after being out of the country
for 8 months and wondered if there have been any SB's or AD's etc which I
need to comply with before renewing my permit. I have looked on the Europa
Aircraft and Rotax web sites and can find nothing there.
Richard Iddon
G-RIXS XS Tri gear
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: spinner cracks
From: Richard Iddon <riddon(at)sent.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2011
On the spinner for my Airmaster prop, I have noticed a couple of small cracks running
from the fixing holes to the edge. Can anyone tell me is the spinner just
aluminium or duralumin and is it possible to weld these cracks up or is it
a new spinner?
Richard Iddon
G-RIXS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: SB's & AD's etc.
Date: Dec 04, 2011
For the Rotax 912, the washer is right under the bolt holding the flywheel. I recently
took the flywheel off and checked. It is quite accessible, but you need
the right tools, correctly tighten to specified torque, etc.
Christoph Both
#223 Wolfville, Nova Scotia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Harrison
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2011 6:31 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Richard/Peter ...........with respect I think the washer was at the other
end ? or am I thinking bloody Jabiru still !!!!! If it was a washer in the
gearbox I may have the problem ?!!! Don't rely on what |I say Richard.
Regards and Compliments of the season to you all.
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Jeffers
Sent: 04 December 2011 09:36
Subject: RE: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Hi Richard,
Welcome home. We just got back from Florida and are finding the short days
rather limiting.
Re AD's There are two from Rotax which is are made mandatory AD's by the
CAA. They will probably will not apply to your engine but you will need to
check. One concerns a washer in the gear box and the other (very recent)
concerns a crankshaft inspection for potential cracks.
The last one arose from a batch of crankshafts with a manufacturing fault.
No new AD's on Tri Gears or Mono's
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 December 2011 08:47
Subject: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Hi guys,
I am just recommissioning my XS tri with 912S after being out of the country
for 8 months and wondered if there have been any SB's or AD's etc which I
need to comply with before renewing my permit. I have looked on the Europa
Aircraft and Rotax web sites and can find nothing there.
Richard Iddon
G-RIXS XS Tri gear
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: SB's & AD's etc.
Date: Dec 04, 2011
Richard,
Sorry I did not mean the gearbox for the first AD. As you say Chris, I
should have said flywheel instead.
Almost right.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Christoph Both
Sent: 04 December 2011 13:51
Subject: RE: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
For the Rotax 912, the washer is right under the bolt holding the flywheel.
I recently took the flywheel off and checked. It is quite accessible, but
you need the right tools, correctly tighten to specified torque, etc.
Christoph Both
#223 Wolfville, Nova Scotia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Harrison
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2011 6:31 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: SB's & AD's etc.
Richard/Peter ...........with respect I think the washer was at the other
end ? or am I thinking bloody Jabiru still !!!!! If it was a washer in the
gearbox I may have the problem ?!!! Don't rely on what |I say Richard.
Regards and Compliments of the season to you all.
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com