Europa-Archive.digest.vol-mj
February 24, 2015 - April 14, 2015
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: anti-corrosion coating of tailwheel spring arm |
| From: | "Europaul383" <europaul383(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello Rowland,
Quite probably way past its sell-by date but, according to Karen at Europa, the
TW spring is SAE 6150 steel alloy, hardened & tempered to Rockwell C42-44. Later
ones also come zinc chromate primed, so the implication is to paint it.
I would prefer to leave mine bare metal in colour to match the main gear leg, so
I enquired about plating with a specialist (Precision Aircraft in Reading) and
they advised:
"I have attached a photo of a cad finish so you can see what colour your part would
look like when plated, cadmium is a white colour but is dipped in the olive
drab passivation solution after plating and de-embrittlement. Your part would
require stress relieving prior to cadmium plating 190-230C for a minimum of
4 hours. After plating your part would require de-embrittlement which would be
the same times and temperature as the stress relieve."
I don't much care for the resulting colour, so I may be forced to paint mine white
- it is far enough away from the main leg not to jar on the eye and Dave J's
doesn't look too bad after 14 years...
NB the attached picture is NOT what a TW spring looks like after cad plating!
HTH
Paul M
383 XS Mono 912s
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438660#438660
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cad_plate_265.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Classic antique tail-wheel fork |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
I have in my possession an original tail-wheel fork in mint condition, powder-coated
white, never used. Who's interested?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438665#438665
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | 914 / mufler / end pipe |
Hi Gert,
I had a problem with the tail pipe coming loose no matter how tight I made
the clamp. I have a TIG welder but I didn't want to weld on the aircraft due
to the high frequency voltage that is part of the welding current. My
concern was that it could damage my avionics.
I solved the problem by drilling a small hole in the pipe under where the
camp goes and putting a stainless steel pin. The pin had flange on it to
keep it in place.
If you do want to weld it my recommendation would be to remove the muffler,
which is a bit of pain to do.
Hope this helps - Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: anti-corrosion coating of tailwheel spring arm |
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
On 24 Feb 2015, at 16:31, Europaul383 wrote:
> Quite probably way past its sell-by date but, according to Karen at Europa, the
TW spring is SAE 6150 steel alloy, hardened & tempered to Rockwell C42-44.
Later ones also come zinc chromate primed, so the implication is to paint it.
Paul - I also decided to paint it - etch-primer + Halfords Appliance Gloss White.
Its not quite as robust as plating or other chemical treatments, but its cheap
and simple!
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 / mufler / end pipe |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hi Gert
My 914 exhaust is made out of 309 Stainless Steel. I plan on welding on a Stainless
Steel Bung to mount an O2 sensor. I purchased some 308L Stainless Rod. I
think it was from either McMaster, ACS or Wicks.
I verified that 308L is OK to use on 3098.
Good Luck.
Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438672#438672
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 / mufler / end pipe |
| From: | Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
Gert=2C
You are a patient man.
I have done it many ways. The Trigear is hard to cowl up without the clamp
. The mono is easier.
I welded mine on once I was comfortable with the length and angle. I don't
like to have loose stuff. My tailpipe is short=2C so I have exhaust stain
s.
If you like a long pipe that is removable=2C the best way to assure your pi
pe doesn't fall into a schoolyard=2C is to pin it. We use an 1/8" hole thr
ough the overlap area where the clamp rests. We tack weld a pin to the cla
mp like on a Continental. One can also use a screw and clamp over it. We
use a small head screw and dimple the wide band clamp for the screw head.
Then we weld a loop ( a U of welding rod ) on the tail pipe and muffler stu
b. Then safety wire the loops. Its like belts and suspenders=2C but we ar
e annal.
Regards=2C
Bud Yerly
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Feb 24=2C 2015 11:18 AM=2C =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Gert_Dalgaard_S=F8rensen?
= wrote:
ensen?=
Hi
Now I have been flying 750 hrs. with my exhaust end pipe clamped to the muf
ler with two ugly big half-rusty clamps
Any reason why I should not TIG-weld that end pipe direct on the mufler?
No problem getting the under cowling on and of with the system assembled.
Regards Gert
Gert Dalgaard
OY-GDS / Mono / 914 / 750 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: anti-corrosion coating of tailwheel spring arm |
| From: | "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com> |
Rowland,
2 coats of Hammerite - 17 years ago and the TW spring still looks OK!
Whatever you use must be quite flexible to resist those one in 20 "not so perfect"
landings!!
Barry
--------
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
At EDLM - Germany
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438717#438717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying in Europe |
| From: | stephan cassel <stephan.cassel(at)gmail.com> |
Hi all,
To fly across Europe with Europa is very fascinating. Every year new goals
are literally on the map.
This year=C2=B4s summer event has been setup to Greece, via Italy and retur
n via
Croatia, Slovenia and so forth. Around the Adriatic sea in other words.
What a trip. (next year it will be UK again)
Then I start to think after I talked to another Europa friend in Sweden: Is
Greece and Croatia valid for Experimental (annex 2) ?
I remember a list that states valid countries that accept annex 2. I think
it was David Joyce that distributed a list some years a go. I=C2=B4m not su
re.
There is one thing if you can visit a country that does not accept annex 2
but does not care less if
you land, i.e does not check type of aircraft but there is another story if
something happens.
I know lots of pilots, with annex 2 aircrafts, that have visit such
countries but what are the rules today?
Any information would be most welcome. (I have google the net without any
luck)
Best regards
Stephan Cassel
LN-STE Mono - Norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dpy01 <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying in Europe |
The LAA have published this leaflet for UK Permit Aircraft
http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/Oper
ating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.08%20Travelling%20abroad%20in%20a%20Permit%20Ai
rcraft.pdf
It lists Greece as information to be obtained.
What the rules are for non-UK permit aircraft would I suppose depend on your
national authorities.
Alan
Sent from my iPad
> On 25 Feb 2015, at 18:43, stephan cassel wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> To fly across Europe with Europa is very fascinating. Every year new goals
are literally on the map.
> This year=C2=B4s summer event has been setup to Greece, via Italy and retu
rn via Croatia, Slovenia and so forth. Around the Adriatic sea in other word
s. What a trip. (next year it will be UK again)
>
> Then I start to think after I talked to another Europa friend in Sweden: I
s Greece and Croatia valid for Experimental (annex 2) ?
>
> I remember a list that states valid countries that accept annex 2. I think
it was David Joyce that distributed a list some years a go. I=C2=B4m not su
re.
>
> There is one thing if you can visit a country that does not accept annex 2
but does not care less if
> you land, i.e does not check type of aircraft but there is another story i
f something happens.
>
> I know lots of pilots, with annex 2 aircrafts, that have visit such countr
ies but what are the rules today?
>
> Any information would be most welcome. (I have google the net without any l
uck)
>
>
> Best regards
> Stephan Cassel
> LN-STE Mono - Norway
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: anti-corrosion coating of tailwheel spring arm |
| From: | Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
We use Rustoleum Hammerite spray on many things in the shop. It looks OK a
nd it is easy to touch up. It is great for fiberglass components as it cov
ers small imperfections well. It doesn't hold up to heat well=2C but has b
een used on the ducting in the cowl.
We have not used it on metal control brackets or rods as I like a smooth fi
nish to identify corrosion bubbles hidden under the paint.
It has earned our "dammed adequate" recommendation.
Bud
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Feb 25=2C 2015 12:59 PM=2C tennant wrote:
Rowland=2C
2 coats of Hammerite - 17 years ago and the TW spring still looks OK!
Whatever you use must be quite flexible to resist those one in 20 "not so p
erfect" landings!!
Barry
--------
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
At EDLM - Germany
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438717#438717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Flying in Europe |
Stephen, You will find a section giving details of country requirements
for Permit aircrfat in European countries on the club website under
Flying - Flying in Europe. I have updated this from time to time (most
recently at the end of 2014) by writing to the CAAs of those countries
that have not previously agreed free passage. I suspect it is more up to
date than the LAA list Regards, David Joyce, Europa Club Trips
organiser.
On 2015-02-25 18:43, stephan cassel wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> To fly across Europe with Europa is very fascinating. Every year new goals are
literally on the map.
> This years summer event has been setup to Greece, via Italy and return via Croatia,
Slovenia and so forth. Around the Adriatic sea in other words. What a trip.
(next year it will be UK again)
>
> Then I start to think after I talked to another Europa friend in Sweden: Is Greece
and Croatia valid for Experimental (annex 2) ?
>
> I remember a list that states valid countries that accept annex 2. I think it
was David Joyce that distributed a list some years a go. Im not sure.
>
> There is one thing if you can visit a country that does not accept annex 2 but
does not care less if
> you land, i.e does not check type of aircraft but there is another story if something
happens.
>
> I know lots of pilots, with annex 2 aircrafts, that have visit such countries
but what are the rules today?
>
> Any information would be most welcome. (I have google the net without any luck)
>
> Best regards
> Stephan Cassel
> LN-STE Mono - Norway
>
Links:
------
[1] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[2] http://forums.matronics.com
[3] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com> |
Hi all. I have rigged my plane and have noticed that the port flap hangs low by
3 to 4mm when put into the up position. If i grab the flap i can move it up the
few millimeters I'm trying to remove. This gap happens with or without the
outriggers fitted. I also have Fred K's enhanced fairings fitted. I have read
the hits and tips book supplied by the club and there is one account and solution
mentioned in it but i thought i would post on here to see if any other people
have experienced this problem. I am building a mono but suspect this may happen
to a tri gear build as well, as i think the problem originates due to the
fact that the connecting rod is attached to the flap cross tube on the STBD
side which will always pull that side tighter. Any suggestions are very welcome.
Many thanks Frank
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438758#438758
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spring Flying Camping Trip |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Here more detail on the fly-in and the registration form. Looks like it should
be fun. Now if winter ever lets up so we can get out of the hangar.
Use this link to register for the fly-in camping trip scheduled for the end of
March:
http://theraf.org/civicrm/event/info?id=170
Jim & Heather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438760#438760
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
| Subject: | Lord rubber mount MT04 |
Hi There All
Can=99t find any input concerning life-time of the
=9CLord=9D Rubber Mount MT04 (912S engine installation page
1-3). Anybody knows?
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn=99A=C3=A9ro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lord rubber mount MT04 |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
I'll stick my neck out here (pour mme guillotine) and risk stating that I don't
think the Lord mounts are lifed. I changed two after one started to look cracked/split/"tired"
and the other became swollen due to I don't know what. Maybe
something like oil reacted with it or maybe it was heat, or a combination of
both.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438764#438764
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying in Europe |
| From: | stephan cassel <stephan.cassel(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Alan for your link.
Yesterday I found a well compiled document of this subject, written for
microlights:
http://emf.aero/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/MLA_flying_in_Europe1.pdf
That is a good complement to the LAA document.
I understand that experimental and microlights are treated about the same
with some exceptions. I know about two: Denmark and Sweden. Both accept
experimental without approval. Micro pilots,on the other hand, need to send
an application before enter these countries.
Regards
Stephan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Flying in Europe |
Alan, Having looked at this, I can assure you it is well out of date!
(And the LAA have told me they have given up trying to update it). The
list on the club website (www.theeuropaclub.org -> Flying -> Flying in
Europe, in case you do not know it). The section on the Club website
(www.theeuropaclub.org -> Flying -> Flying in Europe, in case anyone is
not familiar with it), is up to date to the end of last year. I have
periodically written to all CAAs of countries that had not already
confirmed that they allow free passage without prior permission and my
last set of enquiries was not long before Christmas. Whilst there, have
a look around the site. If you know a better source of weather info for
Europe, I would be interested to hear of it!
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
On 2015-02-25 20:20, Dpy01 wrote:
> The LAA have published this leaflet for UK Permit Aircraft
>
> http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/Operating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.08%20Travelling%20abroad%20in%20a%20Permit%20Aircraft.pdf [4]
>
> It lists Greece as information to be obtained.
>
> What the rules are for non-UK permit aircraft would I suppose depend on your
national authorities.
>
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 25 Feb 2015, at 18:43, stephan cassel wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> To fly across Europe with Europa is very fascinating. Every year new goals are
literally on the map.
>> This years summer event has been setup to Greece, via Italy and return via Croatia,
Slovenia and so forth. Around the Adriatic sea in other words. What a
trip. (next year it will be UK again)
>>
>> Then I start to think after I talked to another Europa friend in Sweden: Is
Greece and Croatia valid for Experimental (annex 2) ?
>>
>> I remember a list that states valid countries that accept annex 2. I think it
was David Joyce that distributed a list some years a go. Im not sure.
>>
>> There is one thing if you can visit a country that does not accept annex 2 but
does not care less if
>> you land, i.e does not check type of aircraft but there is another story if
something happens.
>>
>> I know lots of pilots, with annex 2 aircrafts, that have visit such countries
but what are the rules today?
>>
>> Any information would be most welcome. (I have google the net without any luck)
>>
>> Best regards
>> Stephan Cassel
>> LN-STE Mono - Norway
>>
>> D============================================
>> a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> D============================================
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D============================================
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D============================================
>
Links:
------
[1] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[2] http://forums.matronics.com
[3] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
[4]
http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/Operating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.08%20Travelling%20abroad%20in%20a%20Permit%20Aircraft.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dpy01 <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying in Europe |
Thanks David I had not been aware of your list will refer too it I. The futu
re.
I have several resources for Wx but not to hand at this time. I'll have a lo
ok at what's there and see if I have anything different.
Alan
Sent from my iPad
> On 26 Feb 2015, at 18:48, davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
>
>
> Alan, Having looked at this, I can assure you it is well out of date! (And
the LAA have told me they have given up trying to update it). The list on t
he club website (www.theeuropaclub.org -> Flying -> Flying in Europe, in ca
se you do not know it). The section on the Club website (www.theeuropaclub.o
rg -> Flying -> Flying in Europe, in case anyone is not familiar with it), i
s up to date to the end of last year. I have periodically written to all CAA
s of countries that had not already confirmed that they allow free passage w
ithout prior permission and my last set of enquiries was not long before Chr
istmas. Whilst there, have a look around the site. If you know a better sour
ce of weather info for Europe, I would be interested to hear of it!
>
> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>
>
>> On 2015-02-25 20:20, Dpy01 wrote:
>>
>> The LAA have published this leaflet for UK Permit Aircraft
>>
>> http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/O
perating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.08%20Travelling%20abroad%20in%20a%20Permit%2
0Aircraft.pdf
>>
>> It lists Greece as information to be obtained.
>>
>> What the rules are for non-UK permit aircraft would I suppose depend on y
our national authorities.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On 25 Feb 2015, at 18:43, stephan cassel wrot
e:
>>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> To fly across Europe with Europa is very fascinating. Every year new goa
ls are literally on the map.
>>> This year=C2=B4s summer event has been setup to Greece, via Italy and re
turn via Croatia, Slovenia and so forth. Around the Adriatic sea in other wo
rds. What a trip. (next year it will be UK again)
>>>
>>> Then I start to think after I talked to another Europa friend in Sweden:
Is Greece and Croatia valid for Experimental (annex 2) ?
>>>
>>> I remember a list that states valid countries that accept annex 2. I thi
nk it was David Joyce that distributed a list some years a go. I=C2=B4m not s
ure.
>>>
>>> There is one thing if you can visit a country that does not accept anne
x 2 but does not care less if
>>> you land, i.e does not check type of aircraft but there is another story
if something happens.
>>>
>>> I know lots of pilots, with annex 2 aircrafts, that have visit such coun
tries but what are the rules today?
>>>
>>> Any information would be most welcome. (I have google the net without an
y luck)
>>>
>>>
>>> Best regards
>>> Stephan Cassel
>>> LN-STE Mono - Norway
>>>
>>>
>>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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>>> a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>>> //forums.matronics.com
>>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>>>
>>
>>
>> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> ics.com
>> .matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying in Europe |
| From: | stephan cassel <stephan.cassel(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks David,
Excellent work.
Why I have not checked our club=C2=B4s website first I do not know.
Regards,
Stephan
LN-STE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
Hi All,
I'm looking to replace my oil hoses. The one from the pump to the
radiator has a 90 deg bend in it. I had noted that it was suggested I
contact Lockwood as they have a metal 90 deg adapter to which regular
hose could be fitted. I contacted them and they said just to use 'an AN
fitting size -8'. Looking at the manual though the thread seems to be
14.4mm so I'm not sure what they meant now. I wonder if they meant to
make a 90 deg elbow using AN fittings. I couldn't figure the parts I
would need though.
Any help as to what others have done would be appreciated.
Also, are there any US sources for the rubber engine mounts or are they
uniquely Europa, in which case I would contact the factory in the UK.
Regards,
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk> |
Replaced mine last year and used normal oil hose with no bends and no 90 deg bend
on the pump.
route of hose work ok without any kinks or tight bends.
Alan
G-OBJT
> On 3 Mar 2015, at 04:59, Martin Tuck wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm looking to replace my oil hoses. The one from the pump to the radiator has
a 90 deg bend in it. I had noted that it was suggested I contact Lockwood as
they have a metal 90 deg adapter to which regular hose could be fitted. I contacted
them and they said just to use 'an AN fitting size -8'. Looking at the
manual though the thread seems to be 14.4mm so I'm not sure what they meant now.
I wonder if they meant to make a 90 deg elbow using AN fittings. I couldn't
figure the parts I would need though.
>
> Any help as to what others have done would be appreciated.
>
> Also, are there any US sources for the rubber engine mounts or are they uniquely
Europa, in which case I would contact the factory in the UK.
>
> Regards,
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
> Wichita, KS
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
So did I with normal (but adequate) oil hose. Just take of care of the route
you give to it and avoid short turns!
Max Cointe
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Alan Burrill
Envoy: mardi 3 mars 2015 08:08
: Europa Forum Forum
Objet: Re: Europa-List: Oil Hose
Replaced mine last year and used normal oil hose with no bends and no 90 deg
bend on the pump.
route of hose work ok without any kinks or tight bends.
Alan
G-OBJT
> On 3 Mar 2015, at 04:59, Martin Tuck wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm looking to replace my oil hoses. The one from the pump to the radiator
has a 90 deg bend in it. I had noted that it was suggested I contact
Lockwood as they have a metal 90 deg adapter to which regular hose could be
fitted. I contacted them and they said just to use 'an AN fitting size -8'.
Looking at the manual though the thread seems to be 14.4mm so I'm not sure
what they meant now. I wonder if they meant to make a 90 deg elbow using AN
fittings. I couldn't figure the parts I would need though.
>
> Any help as to what others have done would be appreciated.
>
> Also, are there any US sources for the rubber engine mounts or are they
uniquely Europa, in which case I would contact the factory in the UK.
>
> Regards,
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
> Wichita, KS
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hanaperrod" <gilrod(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Due to a change in circumstances I have a large aluminium clad enclosed twin axle
trailer for sale 12v winch good tyres ready to use ( been used for Europa
mono Needs mod for Tri gear). Pm me for more info and photos.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438913#438913
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alan.twigg775(at)gmail.com |
| Subject: | Re: EUROPA TRAILER |
How long, I have a Motorglider mono.
Sent from my iPhone
> On 3 Mar 2015, at 10:23, "hanaperrod" wrote:
>
>
> Due to a change in circumstances I have a large aluminium clad enclosed twin
axle trailer for sale 12v winch good tyres ready to use ( been used for Europa
mono Needs mod for Tri gear). Pm me for more info and photos.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438913#438913
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Martin,
You need a AN8-M14.5 adaptor. The old Rotax PN was 956641 but it doesnt appear
in the parts list any longer.
You can buy them at lots of places. I often use Summit Racing for AN fittings.
The page with the adaptor is
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/an-to-metric-adapter-fittings/fitting-size-2/14mm-x-1-5/fitting-size-1/minus-8-an?N=4294920733%2B4294920642%2B4294947250&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Default
You will also need a 90 deg hose end and I purchased Aeroquip FNC0820 hose for
this. Works fine.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438917#438917
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EUROPA TRAILER |
| From: | "hanaperrod" <gilrod(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
27feet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438929#438929
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AUVRAY Michel <mau11(at)orange.fr> |
One very good solution for the oil hose is "Parker Push-lok 836" 1/2 "
colour blue 150C max
Michel AUVRAY
Le 03/03/2015 05:59, Martin Tuck a crit :
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm looking to replace my oil hoses. The one from the pump to the
> radiator has a 90 deg bend in it. I had noted that it was suggested I
> contact Lockwood as they have a metal 90 deg adapter to which regular
> hose could be fitted. I contacted them and they said just to use 'an
> AN fitting size -8'. Looking at the manual though the thread seems to
> be 14.4mm so I'm not sure what they meant now. I wonder if they meant
> to make a 90 deg elbow using AN fittings. I couldn't figure the parts
> I would need though.
>
> Any help as to what others have done would be appreciated.
>
> Also, are there any US sources for the rubber engine mounts or are
> they uniquely Europa, in which case I would contact the factory in the
> UK.
>
> Regards,
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
> Wichita, KS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com> |
Hello Everyone,
Although slightly off topic, I did go down the route of replacing all of
my hoses with AN fittings and very flexible steel braided hose from
Pegasus Racing. Frans did the same but he used the Kevlar version of
the hose which is even more flexible.
I had to TIG weld on some fittings onto my oil tank and make a banjo
for the sump, although I believe there is a Rotax part for this.
It's an expensive exercise, it cost me about $500 at the time, but I no
longer have to be concerned about hoses chaffing or getting too hot.
I have attached the bill of materials and the part numbers are from the
Pegasus catalogue
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
Thank you all who responded for taking the time to provide some very
helpful information.
Martin Tuck
On 3/3/2015 4:06 PM, Paul McAllister wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Although slightly off topic, I did go down the route of replacing all of my hoses
with AN fittings and very flexible steel braided hose from Pegasus Racing.
Frans did the same but he used the Kevlar version of the hose which is even
more flexible.
>
> I had to TIG weld on some fittings onto my oil tank and make a banjo for the
sump, although I believe there is a Rotax part for this.
>
> It's an expensive exercise, it cost me about $500 at the time, but I no longer
have to be concerned about hoses chaffing or getting too hot.
>
> I have attached the bill of materials and the part numbers are from the Pegasus
catalogue
>
>
> Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
| Subject: | Rubber Engine Mounts |
Does anyone know if the MT04 mounts in the Europa Engine install manual
are the same as the Lord //J 3608-1 mounts as specified in the Rotax
installation manual?
Regards,
Martin Tuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
| Subject: | Trim tab link rod fork to bell crank |
I find it curious that the trim tab link rod fork is connected to the
bell crank with bolt, washer and lock nut.
If there was a quiz I would choose clevis pin, washer and cotter pin.
I wonder why the lock nut is ok here?
Jan de Jong
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EUROPA TRAILER |
| From: | "ploucandco" <jacques(at)platisource.com> |
Can you post pictures of the trailer?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439076#439076
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tri-Gear Landing Gear Leg |
| From: | "Kelvin Weston" <kelv(at)kdweston.biz> |
Hi All
Have just tried fitting the brake caliper mounting plates MG02 to the main gear
legs and found that the holes for the AN5 bolts do not align.
One leg is quite close and would probably go after a bit of fettling, but the other
leg is half a hole out.
Has anyone else had this problem?
I have checked the alignment of the drilled holes on the problem leg and both the
mounting bolt hole at the top of the leg and the axle hole are vertical when
the leg is laid on a flat surface, so that's ok.
The problem looks like the hole in the axle for the torque plate mounting bolt
has not been drilled on the centreline. This can be seen in the second picture.
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv(at)kdweston.biz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439135#439135
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf1096_997.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf1099_657.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Wing Pin Tie-Bar in Fuselage |
| From: | "Kelvin Weston" <kelv(at)kdweston.biz> |
Hi Again
The later Cockpit Modules had a pre-moulded groove in the rear centre tunnel to
accommodate the rear wing pin tie-rod (mod 52).
Does the groove still need to be glassed over as shown in the current build manual
(chap 27) thus retaining the tie-rod?
I'm thinking that this was only to restore the structural integrity of the rear
tunnel on the earlier cockpit modules and is probably not required on the CM's
with the pre-moulded groove.
Any thoughts?
I would be interested to hear what other builders with the later CM's have done.
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv(at)kdweston.biz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439136#439136
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?utf-8?Q?Gert_Dalgaard_S=C3=B8rensen?= <stabelvej9(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Door gas-springs |
Hi all
My door-gassprings seems to be a little tired :)
Anyone who know where I can purchase two new?
Nice sunday to every one.
Regards Gert
Gert Dalgaard
OY-GDS / Europa mono / 914 / 750 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door gas-springs |
| From: | Kevin Challis <cakeykev(at)gmail.com> |
This company will service and recharge them. Refill to 185 N
http://www.industrialgassprings.com
> On 8 Mar 2015, at 06:58, Gert Dalgaard Srensen wrote:
>
>
> Hi all
>
> My door-gassprings seems to be a little tired :)
> Anyone who know where I can purchase two new?
> Nice sunday to every one.
>
> Regards Gert
>
> Gert Dalgaard
> OY-GDS / Europa mono / 914 / 750 hrs.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door gas-springs |
| From: | =?utf-8?Q?Gert_Dalgaard_S=C3=B8rensen?= <stabelvej9(at)gmail.com> |
Super - thanks, Kevin :)
> Den 08/03/2015 kl. 08.36 skrev Kevin Challis :
>
>
> This company will service and recharge them. Refill to 185 N
>
> http://www.industrialgassprings.com
>
>
>
>> On 8 Mar 2015, at 06:58, Gert Dalgaard Srensen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all
>>
>> My door-gassprings seems to be a little tired :)
>> Anyone who know where I can purchase two new?
>> Nice sunday to every one.
>>
>> Regards Gert
>>
>> Gert Dalgaard
>> OY-GDS / Europa mono / 914 / 750 hrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tri-Gear Landing Gear Leg |
| From: | "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I HAD THE SAME THING HAPPEN TO ME AND FOUND OUT THAT THE SOCKET WERE DRILLED THE
WRONG WAY. HAD TO BUY NEW SOCKETS
Rick Stockton
Exuropa XS, N120EJ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439155#439155
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca> |
| Subject: | FW: Europa Stage 1+2 KIT for sale: Toronto/Canada location |
Dear Europa Community:
I am posting for a friend trying to sell a EUROPA Kit Stages 1+2.
Thanks,
Christoph Both
#223 Europa Classic
Wolfville, Nova Scotia
Canada
"Hello All:
I am selling my Europa XS Monowheel kit FWB. It has all components includin
g canopy glass, bulkheads, doors, cockpit module, all hardware that comes w
ith FWB kits, rudder, stabs, gear components, main-gear mount, etc.
I also have a cradle for transport. The one component that is missing is wi
ngs. The kit didn't come with them since glider wings were just coming to m
arket and the standard wings were withheld.
My price is very low and takes into account that wings would have to be pur
chased. I have approx. 200 hours into build... selling due to personal reas
ons.
My price is $4500.00 USD and is firm. No tire kickers please. Raw materials
except those which carry an expiry are included as well. Email: myron.hal
uschak(at)rogers.com / phone: 905 432 2481.
Kit is in Toronto, Canada area. Pictures are available.
Thank you"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Parts and Accessories Catalogue from Europa Aircraft |
In case anyone has missed the announcement Europa Aircraft have just
released a New Parts and Accessories Catalogue for immediate upload by all
owners. I have tried to send this on to you all but the document is too
large so please head to the Europa Aircraft website for full details.
Just what we have been waiting for.
Regards
Steve Pitt
Chairman, Europa Club
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door gas-springs |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Bud Yerly has newly designed gas springs with a much better retaining system on
the ends. My old factory supplied door springs were always falling off the
aircraft when the doors were open
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439196#439196
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Bliss <william(at)wbliss.co.uk> |
Hello All
I want to be seen by anything in front. Something like a 20 degree wide
cone of strong white light (maybe flashing) would be reassuring. I would
prefer LED. Any suggestions on what to look for specification wise and
where such a light could be mounted as well as modification approval
experience with the LAA appreciated.
Thanks
William Bliss Europa XS cowled G-WUFF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PETER MORGANS <petermorgans181(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bright Lights |
Hi William,=0AI've just bought a couple of Cree daytime running lights, as
used on motorbikes. These 3 watt LEDs have a particularly bright white ligh
t and cost about =A325.00 the pair. Just search 'Cree daytime running light
s' and you'll get a host of options. I was thinking of installing 3 or 4 of
these in a cluster at slightly different angles. I'm also hoping to be abl
e to crib the installation and LAA approval from someone else.=0ARegards=0A
Peter Morgans=0AG-CFKZ-=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From:
William Bliss =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASe
nt: Friday, 13 March 2015, 20:14=0ASubject: Europa-List: Bright Lights=0A
k>=0A=0AHello All=0A=0AI want to be seen by anything in front. Something li
ke a 20 degree wide=0Acone of strong white light (maybe flashing) would be
reassuring. I would=0Aprefer LED. Any suggestions on what to look for speci
fication wise and=0Awhere such a light could be mounted as well as modifica
tion approval=0Aexperience with the LAA appreciated.=0A=0AThanks=0A=0AWilli
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Heindl <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
Hi William=2C
I installed landing lights using bulbs with the MR16 standard. There is a h
uge choice of LED and Halogen types with a choice of narrow and wide beam.
They cost around =A3 3 each including postage from China. Their diameter is
50mm and I mounted mine in the upper portion of the two inlets at the fron
t of the XS cowling. The 9 watt LED narrow beam bulbs are amazingly bright.
I copied the idea from one of the Czech LSA aircraft. I think it is called
Aerotrek=2C and it is based on the Kitfox.Karl
> Date: Fri=2C 13 Mar 2015 20:14:03 +0000
> From: william(at)wbliss.co.uk
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Bright Lights
>
>
> Hello All
>
> I want to be seen by anything in front. Something like a 20 degree wide
> cone of strong white light (maybe flashing) would be reassuring. I would
> prefer LED. Any suggestions on what to look for specification wise and
> where such a light could be mounted as well as modification approval
> experience with the LAA appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> William Bliss Europa XS cowled G-WUFF
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bright Lights |
I too have opted for LEDs conforming to the MR16 standard=85the
brightest I=92ve found are:
- Premium 2 LED MR16 GU5.3 10W 12V 10 Deg 3000K 80CRI, and
- Premium 2 LED MR16 GU5.3 11.5W 12V 25 Deg 3000K 80CRI
manufactured and sold by Soraa.
(still a-building=85)
F.
> On Mar 13, 2015, at 2:42 PM, Karl Heindl wrote:
>
> Hi William,
>
> I installed landing lights using bulbs with the MR16 standard. There
is a huge choice of LED and Halogen types with a choice of narrow and
wide beam. They cost around =A3 3 each including postage from China.
Their diameter is 50mm and I mounted mine in the upper portion of the
two inlets at the front of the XS cowling. The 9 watt LED narrow beam
bulbs are amazingly bright.
> I copied the idea from one of the Czech LSA aircraft. I think it is
called Aerotrek, and it is based on the Kitfox.
> Karl
>
> > Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2015 20:14:03 +0000
> > From: william(at)wbliss.co.uk <mailto:william(at)wbliss.co.uk>
> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Europa-List: Bright Lights
> >
>
> >
> > Hello All
> >
> > I want to be seen by anything in front. Something like a 20 degree
wide
> > cone of strong white light (maybe flashing) would be reassuring. I
would
> > prefer LED. Any suggestions on what to look for specification wise
and
> > where such a light could be mounted as well as modification approval
> > experience with the LAA appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > William Bliss Europa XS cowled G=============
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
While I change out the engine mount rubbers I thought I would perform
Mod 72.
Does anyone in the US who might already have done the mod have a 16.5mm
reamer I could borrow or buy from you?
Regards,
Martin Tuck
N152MT
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bright Lights |
| From: | "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com> |
Hi William. I too wanted landing lights and bought Fred K's lenses to fair them
into the wing tips with nav lights BUT have decided to fit landing lights into
the outrigger fairing. The lights i have chosen are these from this vans site.
http://www.rvplane.com/?categoryid=10000&dayid=1143
They are pricey but are FANTASTIC!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439353#439353
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bright Lights |
| From: | "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hi Group
My build partner and I have been doing some off road mountain biking at night.
You can buy a NICE helmet mounted light for a lot of dollars.
I purchased a CHEAP China unit for a fraction of the price, made a mount and it
really does the job. It has high, medium, low, flash mode (high) and SOS (high).
It also comes with a Lithium Ion battery pack (and case) and charger.
Here's the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9600Lm-8X-CREE-XM-L-U2-LED-Head-Front-Bicycle-Lamp-Bike-Light-Headlamp-Headlight-/151262604417?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2337f42c81
I think I saw it as low as 61$.
Worth considering for Europa.
Here's some testing we did including Kunzleman and Aero Sun:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=30987
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439354#439354
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeffrey Roberts <Jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mod 72 Reamer |
Martin,
I have one of the reamer's that was passed to me. Let me know if you
still need it and we'll get it in the post.
Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush
On Mar 13, 2015, at 11:51 PM, Martin Tuck wrote:
>
> While I change out the engine mount rubbers I thought I would perform
Mod 72.
>
> Does anyone in the US who might already have done the mod have a
16.5mm reamer I could borrow or buy from you?
>
> Regards,
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
> Wichita, Kansas
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mod 72 Reamer |
| From: | "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I borrowed one from Jim Butcher
butcher43(at)att.net
He reads these message most of the time.
Rick Stockton
Europa XS, Jabiru 3300
N120EJ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439359#439359
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bright Lights |
| From: | "Clive Sutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com> |
Hello William,
I did just this on G-TAGR and got LAA MOD approval 13072 in 2011 - using a 'Parts
for Aircraft' sourced 55W H3 halogen light kit including bracket mounted to
the air intake aluminium ducting as image uploaded. I later swapped the bulb
to an LED as the current drain is dramatically reduced and equally as bright.
If you wanted to do the same an repeat MOD application would be needed - citing
13072 to save you work. Went to quite a lot of trouble to make sure it would
not go into resonance as a result of excitation vibration from e.g. prop or
engine out of balance forces.
regards,
Clive
Now, G-CILF Mono (in build)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439362#439362
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gtagr_cov_71112_2_132.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mod 72 Reamer |
Thanks for the offers and contacts everyone.
Martin
On 3/14/2015 9:23 AM, AirEupora wrote:
>
> I borrowed one from Jim Butcher
> butcher43(at)att.net
>
> He reads these message most of the time.
>
> Rick Stockton
> Europa XS, Jabiru 3300
> N120EJ
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439359#439359
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | rear baggage shelf fitting |
Im looking at the instructions for fitting the rear baggage bay bulkhead XSF02A
and am a bit confused about how it relates to the baggage well that is part of
the cockpit module.
Page 28M-13 of the manual says
"The front flange of the bulkhead fits over the rear of the cockpit module"
which indicates to me that the flange of XSF02A lies _forward_ of the wall of the
baggage well.
However, page 28M-14 says
"Drill and cleco the bulkhead front flange onto the rear face of the cockpit module
which sounds as if the flange of XSF02A lies _aft_ of the wall of the baggage well.
The first option seems much more sensible and I think the second quote should read
something like:
"Drill and cleco the bulkhead front flange onto the front face of the rear wall
of the cockpit module
But, as usual, I feel the need for confirmation from others that I am reading the
manual aright here.
Is your aft baggage bulkhead flange (a) forward or (b) aft of the wall of the baggage
well that is part of the cockpit module?
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear baggage shelf fitting |
| From: | "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com> |
Hi Rowland. I have a classic and am doing the extended baggage bay mod. After cutting
the original short baggage bay off, the new one asks you to cut a section
out of the lip which fits over the centre tunnel part of the cockpit module
thus making the lip of the new style baggage bay fit over the cockpit module.
Hope this makes sense.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439391#439391
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear baggage shelf fitting |
| From: | "JonSmith" <jonsmitheuropa(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi Rowland, I did my baggage bay as mod 47, modifying my original classic baggage
bay. I certainly did it as per your first method, the front flange of the
bulkhead sitting in front of and bonding to the cockpit module's rear edge.
It worked perfectly for me and the bulkhead sits nicely on the rear edge of the
cockpit module.
In fact, the mod 47 instructions quote; "The first job is to cut away the centre
of the bulkhead front flange so that it matches the tunnel of the cockpit module".
This is so that the bulkhead front edge fits nicely over the tunnel.
If the front edge of the bulkhead was to go behind the cockpit module's rear
edge you wouldn't need to do that trimming because the tunnel does not extend
back behind the cockpit module.
Cheers, Jon
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439392#439392
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear baggage shelf fitting |
| From: | "JonSmith" <jonsmitheuropa(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Well look at that - "Specialeffects" beat me to it........!
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439394#439394
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Airmaster AP332 - AC200 controller cable |
| From: | "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net> |
Apparently the Europa Club has an AC200 data cable for use by members. Does anybody
know the whereabouts of this cable?
I tried emailing the club (secretary(at)theeuropaclub.org) a few times without success.
Regards
JW
--------
John Wighton
Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439403#439403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Buess Aviatik" <ykibuess(at)bluewin.ch> |
| Subject: | Airmaster AP332 - AC200 controller cable |
John,
I have a data cable for the AC200 and could lend it to you. Are you still
located in Switzerland?
Regards, Alfred
Alfred Buess
CH-3700 Spiez, Switzerland
Europa XS HB-YKI, Ercoupe 415-E N94804
-----Ursprngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] Im Auftrag von John Wighton
Gesendet: Sonntag, 15. Mrz 2015 08:41
An: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Betreff: Europa-List: Airmaster AP332 - AC200 controller cable
Apparently the Europa Club has an AC200 data cable for use by members. Does
anybody know the whereabouts of this cable?
I tried emailing the club (secretary(at)theeuropaclub.org) a few times without
success.
Regards
JW
--------
John Wighton
Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439403#439403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rear baggage shelf fitting |
Hi Rowland,
The most fwd lip of the baggage bay extension, its aft face bonds to the fwd face
of the most aft vertical(?) face of the cockpit module. It isnt a good fit,
or certainly on mine, but both are moulded so I think you will wxperience the
same. There is quite a gap at the inboard portion of the lip/CM vert face, and
its hard to pull in the gap with clecos. I think the redux will have to be padded
out with flox, and the gap filled, then taped over. I am away from home
so cant check my manual but I believe tapes on the way back will be required too,
so the loads are equally distributed. That job will be a bitch to get to,
and it possibly isnt required in the manual, but then only one face of the sandwich
construction of the rear vertical face if the CM will be taking the loads,
albeit there probably isnt too much in the way of loads at that point. I have
my top off, so I was able to pre tape the underside and aft face of the vert
face of the baggage bay, and the flat part, so that now I can redux it in place
on the flanges. If your top is off, I'd suggest you do the same,
As after
The fact, through the D section will be a really fun job. I take my hat off to
those guys that did this mod with the top on. I daresay all that crawling around
lead to many expletives.
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Downunder
> On 15 Mar 2015, at 10:05, Rowland Carson wrote:
>
>
> Im looking at the instructions for fitting the rear baggage bay bulkhead XSF02A
and am a bit confused about how it relates to the baggage well that is part
of the cockpit module.
>
> Page 28M-13 of the manual says
>
> "The front flange of the bulkhead fits over the rear of the cockpit module"
>
> which indicates to me that the flange of XSF02A lies _forward_ of the wall of
the baggage well.
>
> However, page 28M-14 says
>
> "Drill and cleco the bulkhead front flange onto the rear face of the cockpit
module
>
> which sounds as if the flange of XSF02A lies _aft_ of the wall of the baggage
well.
>
> The first option seems much more sensible and I think the second quote should
read something like:
>
> "Drill and cleco the bulkhead front flange onto the front face of the rear wall
of the cockpit module
>
> But, as usual, I feel the need for confirmation from others that I am reading
the manual aright here.
>
> Is your aft baggage bulkhead flange (a) forward or (b) aft of the wall of the
baggage well that is part of the cockpit module?
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
> | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
> | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
> | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
> | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AW: Airmaster AP332 - AC200 controller cable |
| From: | "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net> |
Hi Alfred,
Not at the moment, l am in the UK. Thanks for the offer, l will send you a PM
to catch up.
Regards
John
--------
John Wighton
Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439428#439428
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | fl20 flap pushrod fitting |
Ive spent some time today trying to persuade the FL20 flap pushrod to go into the
tunnel and through the hole in the tunnel bulkhead, without success.
I wonder if I am missing some clever way to orientate the pushrod so it will pass
through.
Or is it just that I need to make the hole in the bulkhead bigger?
The impression I have is that its quite long way from going through and I fear
Id have to cut the hole right out to the edge of the flange.
How did others deal with this bit of origami?
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear baggage shelf fitting |
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
On 15 Mar 2015, at 00:25, JonSmith wrote:
> I did my baggage bay as mod 47, modifying my original classic baggage bay. I
certainly did it as per your first method, the front flange of the bulkhead sitting
in front of and bonding to the cockpit module's rear edge
Hi Rowland,
The most fwd lip of the baggage bay extension, its aft face bonds to the fwd face
of the most aft vertical(?) face of the cockpit module.
Jon, Tony - thanks for your confirmation of my gut feeling about what was correct.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
Has anyone removed the VDO pressure sender from the engine to the firewall.
Dave G-LDVO
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Dave,
I relocated my VDO oil pressure sender from the engine to the top of the passenger
footwell area. You can see what I did on my EuropaOwners.org build website.
Go to Year #6 Q3 2007 where there is a series of pics showing the relocation effort.
I believe that the final configuration is slightly different than what
is shown. If you have any further questions or would like current pics, let me
know. The aircraft is down for Annual so this is a good time for pictures.
You may need to check with the Europa Club to see if there is an LAA approved mod
for relocating the oil pressure sender.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Mar 17, 2015, at 5:26 PM, david park wrote:
Has anyone removed the VDO pressure sender from the engine to the firewall.
Dave G-LDVO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AUVRAY Michel <mau11(at)orange.fr> |
| Subject: | SR3000 Woodcomp propeller |
Hello all,
I search second hand SR3000.
If you have contact me off
Thanks
Michel AUVRAY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
Thanks Bob,
Waiting to see if Mod required.
Dave
Sent from my iPad
> On 18 Mar 2015, at 2:03 am, Robert Borger wrote:
>
>
> Dave,
>
> I relocated my VDO oil pressure sender from the engine to the top of the passenger
footwell area. You can see what I did on my EuropaOwners.org build website.
>
> Go to Year #6 Q3 2007 where there is a series of pics showing the relocation
effort. I believe that the final configuration is slightly different than what
is shown. If you have any further questions or would like current pics, let
me know. The aircraft is down for Annual so this is a good time for pictures.
>
> You may need to check with the Europa Club to see if there is an LAA approved
mod for relocating the oil pressure sender.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger(at)mac.com
>
>
> On Mar 17, 2015, at 5:26 PM, david park wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone removed the VDO pressure sender from the engine to the firewall.
> Dave G-LDVO
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | "Rick Moss" <Rkwmoss(at)gmail.com> |
Hi all,
My XS TG has an Avelec electronic fuel gauge, which is useful as a vague indication,
but little else. When it reads 54 litres (the highest it ever reads), I
can still put another 18 litres into the tank. It then reads 54 litres for around
an hour of flight, before dropping in 2 litre increments in a plausible manner.
Bottom line: I only know accurately how much fuel I have when it's overflowing
or empty (excl reserve). Given that the tank can't be dipped, what are you chaps
using for fuel measurement?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439515#439515
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Rick,
I had the original sight gage installed per Europa instructions. It
only tells you when the fuel =93may=94 be getting low. For a better
idea of the fuel usage, I installed the dual fuel flow option on my
Grand Rapids EIS4000. When calibrated, it seems to be accurate to much
better than a half pint (about 250 cc) in a tank of gas.
When I replaced my leaking tank last year I removed the original, pretty
much useless, sight gage and replaced it with a sight gage that runs
from the bottom of the tank, main side, up between the seats, near the
pilot:
It is also back lit with a string of 12v lEDs. The remainder of the 15
ft (5 meter) string is run around the inside of the tunnel for inside
work illumination. It=92s not shown in the picture but there is a
switch/dimmer for the lighting. I used the ties to mark calibration
points: 06 gal @ bottom of lower P-clip; 07 gal, top of lower P-clip; 08
gal @ first white tie; 09 gal @ 2nd white tie, 10 gal @ 1st black tie;
11 gal @ white tie; 12 gal @ white tie; 13 gal @ white tie; 14 gal @
white tie; 15 gal @ 2nd black tie; 19 gal @ top of upper P-clip; 20 gal
@ top of gage. You can see that in this picture the tank is holding 15
gal.
In the 25 hrs or so I have flown since replacing the tank, this gage has
proven to be almost as accurate as the totalizer down to where the gage
disappears. When the fuel disappears in the gage you are close to a
mandatory switch to reserve and time to find a place to land if you are
not already there.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Mar 18, 2015, at 3:16 PM, Rick Moss wrote:
Hi all,
My XS TG has an Avelec electronic fuel gauge, which is useful as a vague
indication, but little else. When it reads 54 litres (the highest it
ever reads), I can still put another 18 litres into the tank. It then
reads 54 litres for around an hour of flight, before dropping in 2 litre
increments in a plausible manner.
Bottom line: I only know accurately how much fuel I have when it's
overflowing or empty (excl reserve). Given that the tank can't be
dipped, what are you chaps using for fuel measurement?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Heindl <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Knowing the actual fuel level? |
Hi Rick=2C
The Avelec should work better than you described. Perhaps you should re-cal
ibrate it. There are also expensive fuel flow indicators like my JPI 450 an
d others. The most reliable and cheapest solution is the sight tube. I use
all 3 . My complaint about the Avelec is that it is difficult to read in su
nlight=2C like all LCD displays. I guess it's my failing eyesight.Karl
> Subject: Europa-List: Knowing the actual fuel level?
> From: Rkwmoss(at)gmail.com
> Date: Wed=2C 18 Mar 2015 13:16:01 -0700
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Hi all=2C
>
> My XS TG has an Avelec electronic fuel gauge=2C which is useful as a vagu
e indication=2C but little else. When it reads 54 litres (the highest it ev
er reads)=2C I can still put another 18 litres into the tank. It then reads
54 litres for around an hour of flight=2C before dropping in 2 litre incre
ments in a plausible manner.
>
> Bottom line: I only know accurately how much fuel I have when it's overfl
owing or empty (excl reserve). Given that the tank can't be dipped=2C what
are you chaps using for fuel measurement?
>
> Thanks in advance=2C
>
> Rick
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439515#439515
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
Rick,
I use the following fuel computer. Very accurate once you calibrate it. I use two
senders for flow and return. Easy to set up in the system.
Dave G-LDVO
FC10 + 2 FT60s from support(at)fdatasystems.com
Sent from my iPad
> On 18 Mar 2015, at 8:16 pm, Rick Moss wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> My XS TG has an Avelec electronic fuel gauge, which is useful as a vague indication,
but little else. When it reads 54 litres (the highest it ever reads),
I can still put another 18 litres into the tank. It then reads 54 litres for around
an hour of flight, before dropping in 2 litre increments in a plausible
manner.
>
> Bottom line: I only know accurately how much fuel I have when it's overflowing
or empty (excl reserve). Given that the tank can't be dipped, what are you chaps
using for fuel measurement?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rick
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439515#439515
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
Rick,
I have two capacitance senders for the original Europa fuel gauge, but never been
reliable.
I submitted a mod to fit a dip stick in one of the holes but came unstuck when
LAA wanted a method of ensuring the cap could not be removed when tank full?
Dave
Sent from my iPad
> On 18 Mar 2015, at 8:16 pm, Rick Moss wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> My XS TG has an Avelec electronic fuel gauge, which is useful as a vague indication,
but little else. When it reads 54 litres (the highest it ever reads),
I can still put another 18 litres into the tank. It then reads 54 litres for around
an hour of flight, before dropping in 2 litre increments in a plausible
manner.
>
> Bottom line: I only know accurately how much fuel I have when it's overflowing
or empty (excl reserve). Given that the tank can't be dipped, what are you chaps
using for fuel measurement?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rick
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439515#439515
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hickling <keithhickling(at)clear.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Second hand Flydat |
Does anyone have a spare Rotax Flydat with 4 EGT inputs set up for the
Rotax 912 uls they are not using and would be willing to sell? I
don=99t need the sensors, just the flydat box. Mine has just
packed up (error 01) and can=99t be fixed by our local Rotax agent
in New Zealand, and although a more modern EIS would be nice I
don=99t want to have to redo the whole panel to fit it.
Please contact me off list if you have one. keithhickling(at)clear.net.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | "Rick Moss" <Rkwmoss(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks all.
Does anyone know the calibration procedure for the Avelec? May be worth a try in
the first instance.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439581#439581
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr> |
Rick,
My Avelec fuel gauge has always been very unreliable. I scrap it and installed
a resistive unit long ago.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439583#439583
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
The Europa fuel measurement options are all problematic.
The original sight gauge was difficult to read and inaccurate. The sight
gauge I installed between the seats still has two very significant problems.
One: the vent for the sight tube of necessity must have some bends in the
tubing, allowing fuel to become trapped and preventing the gauge from
free venting. This occurs when line boys are over exuberant about
filling up the filler neck and flooding the vent line (which I have opening
into the top of the filler neck). Trapped fuel then causes the sight tube to
read inches low.
Two: The curious saddle bag design of the tank allows easy, yet
undetectable shifting of what fuel you may believe to be in the reserve
side into the main, potentially leaving nothing for reserve. This has happened
after some gentleman macro and even after some steep turns in the
presence of bumpy air.
The capacitive measurement systems are all non-starters where we are
fortunate to have choices in fuel (av vs. mo-gas).
The remediation I have been playing with involves two honeywell pressure
transducers at the bottom of each fuel bung feeding an Arduino with a
touch sensitive LCD screen. Not quite finished for publication, but the
thought is that it should provide legible, filtered, reliable fuel weight on
each side, calibrated to the funky shape of the tank.
Two design decisions I made in the prototype may come back to force a
revision: I did not use differential transducers because 1) the limited
altitude range I normally fly at would lead to a trivial error by neglecting
head space pressure (also very difficult to find gasoline-tolerant differential
transducers), and 2) by installing the transducers at a tee in the
bungs, there will be a small artifactual pressure drop which varies with
fuel flow.
When I finish testing, I will let you know.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439585#439585
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2434_115.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
Ira =0A=0Athat has the potential to be a brilliant solution.=0AGraham=0A=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: rampil <ira.rampil(at)gmail.co
m>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Thursday, 19 March 2015, 13:05
=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re: Knowing the actual fuel level?=0A =0A=0A--> Eu
ropa-List message posted by: "rampil" =0A=0AThe Europ
a fuel measurement options are all problematic.=0A=0AThe original sight gau
ge was difficult to read and inaccurate. The sight =0Agauge I installed bet
ween the seats still has two very significant problems.=0AOne: the vent for
the sight tube of necessity must have some bends in the=0Atubing, allowing
fuel to become trapped and preventing the gauge from =0Afree venting. This
occurs when line boys are over exuberant about =0Afilling up the filler ne
ck and flooding the vent line (which I have opening=0Ainto the top of the f
iller neck).- Trapped fuel then causes the sight tube to=0Aread inches lo
w.=0ATwo: The curious saddle bag design of the tank allows easy, yet =0Aund
etectable shifting of what fuel you may believe to be in the reserve =0Asid
e into the main, potentially leaving nothing for reserve. This has happened
=0Aafter some gentleman macro and even after some steep turns in the =0Apre
sence of bumpy air.=0A=0AThe capacitive measurement systems are all non-sta
rters where we are=0Afortunate to have choices in fuel (av vs. mo-gas).=0A
=0AThe remediation I have been playing with involves two honeywell pressure
=0Atransducers at the bottom of each fuel bung feeding an Arduino with a=0A
touch sensitive LCD screen. Not quite finished for publication, but the =0A
thought is that it should provide legible, filtered, reliable fuel weight o
n=0Aeach side, calibrated to the funky shape of the tank.=0A=0ATwo design d
ecisions I made in the prototype may come back to force a =0Arevision: I di
d not use differential transducers because 1) the limited =0Aaltitude range
I normally fly at would lead to a trivial error by neglecting=0Ahead space
pressure (also very difficult to find gasoline-tolerant differential=0Atra
nsducers), and 2) by installing the transducers at a tee in the =0Abungs, t
here will be a small artifactual pressure drop which varies with=0Afuel flo
w.=0A=0AWhen I finish testing, I will let you know.=0A=0A--------=0AIra N22
4XS=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics
.com/viewtopic.php?p=439585#439585=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAttachments: =0A=0Ahttp:
=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
Sounds good news waiting for further progress.
Dave G-LDVO
Sent from my iPhone
> On 19 Mar 2015, at 13:18, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote:
>
> Ira
> that has the potential to be a brilliant solution.
> Graham
>
> From: rampil <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, 19 March 2015, 13:05
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Knowing the actual fuel level?
>
>
> The Europa fuel measurement options are all problematic.
>
> The original sight gauge was difficult to read and inaccurate. The sight
> gauge I installed between the seats still has two very significant problem
s.
> One: the vent for the sight tube of necessity must have some bends in the
> tubing, allowing fuel to become trapped and preventing the gauge from
> free venting. This occurs when line boys are over exuberant about
> filling up the filler neck and flooding the vent line (which I have openin
g
> into the top of the filler neck). Trapped fuel then causes the sight tube
to
> read inches low.
> Two: The curious saddle bag design of the tank allows easy, yet
> undetectable shifting of what fuel you may believe to be in the reserve
> side into the main, potentially leaving nothing for reserve. This has happ
ened
> after some gentleman macro and even after some steep turns in the
> presence of bumpy air.
>
> The capacitive measurement systems are all non-starters where we are
> fortunate to have choices in fuel (av vs. mo-gas).
>
> The remediation I have been playing with involves two honeywell pressure
> transducers at the bottom of each fuel bung feeding an Arduino with a
> touch sensitive LCD screen. Not quite finished for publication, but the
> thought is that it should provide legible, filtered, reliable fuel weight o
n
> each side, calibrated to the funky shape of the tank.
>
> Two design decisions I made in the prototype may come back to force a
> revision: I did not use differential transducers because 1) the limited
> altitude range I normally fly at would lead to a trivial error by neglecti
ng
> head space pressure (also very difficult to find gasoline-tolerant differe
ntial
> transducers), and 2) by installing the transducers at a tee in the
> bungs, there will be a small artifactual pressure drop which varies with
> fuel flow.
>
> When I finish testing, I will let you know.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439585#439585
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-L
ist" target="_blank">http: &nbs//www.matronics.com/con
tribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.co========
=========
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Heindl <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
I would contact avelec.co.uk and ask them to email the calibration instruct
ions. I have found the readings quite accurate=2C but then I use mostly th
e same fuel=2C and I make sure I never fly with a tank that is almost empty
.
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Knowing the actual fuel level?
> From: Rkwmoss(at)gmail.com
> Date: Thu=2C 19 Mar 2015 02:37:33 -0700
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Does anyone know the calibration procedure for the Avelec? May be worth a
try in the first instance.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439581#439581
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
I have a similar system as Ira describes based off Tony K's design using a
PIC micro that drives a 10 segment LED display. Its calibrated to take care
of the shape of the tank and each segment is a linear progression, aka ~ 1.8
gallons per segment.
It has been trouble free for 10 years and the only issue is that is reads
high for a little while when climbing and low when descending until it
settles out. The sensor is differential with one side in the lowest point of
the fuel system and the other in the tank vent. I never did get to the
bottom of the climbing / descending issue.
I like Ira's approach using more modern technology such as the Arduino with
a touch sensitive LCD screen. Mine is older technology and finicky thing to
get working
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose Wheel Bearing |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hello All.
Tri gear nose wheel bearing, are they a standard size, if so what is the size of
the bearing, and where to obtain the bearing.
Regards.
Alan.
PS. Have you checked your nose wheel bearing for wear,
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439629#439629
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
| Subject: | Water Coolant Sensor location? |
Hi guys,
Where do you think I should put the EIS water/coolant temperature sensor?
I'm thinking in the long hose that runs from the radiator to the
'distributor pot' on top of the engine.
Regards,
Martin Tuck
N152MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Martin,
Yes, just after the coolant exits the =9Cpot=9D on the way
to the radiator.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
> On Mar 19, 2015, at 8:05 PM, Martin Tuck wrote:
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Where do you think I should put the EIS water/coolant temperature
sensor?
>
> I'm thinking in the long hose that runs from the radiator to the
'distributor pot' on top of the engine.
>
> Regards,
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
Thanks Bob!
Martin
On 3/19/2015 9:18 PM, Robert Borger wrote:
> Martin,
>
> Yes, just after the coolant exits the pot on the way to the radiator.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger(at)mac.com
>
>> On Mar 19, 2015, at 8:05 PM, Martin Tuck > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> Hi guys,
>>
>> Where do you think I should put the EIS water/coolant temperature sensor?
>>
>> I'm thinking in the long hose that runs from the radiator to the
>> 'distributor pot' on top of the engine.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Martin Tuck
>> N152MT
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Nose Wheel Bearing |
Absolutely bog standard size bearing easily available from amongst others
'Bearing Traders'. Take the duff one in and ask for equivalent. They are
about 14 each.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Carter
Sent: 19 March 2015 20:23
Subject: Europa-List: Nose Wheel Bearing
-->
Hello All.
Tri gear nose wheel bearing, are they a standard size, if so what is the
size of the bearing, and where to obtain the bearing.
Regards.
Alan.
PS. Have you checked your nose wheel bearing for wear,
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439629#439629
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearing |
| From: | Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
Alan=2C
On my www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com> s
ite under the techniques tab is a list of the spares and sources for routin
e maintanence for use by my owners in .PDF format.
Regards
Bud Yerly
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Mar 19=2C 2015 4:28 PM=2C Alan Carter wrote:
Hello All.
Tri gear nose wheel bearing=2C are they a standard size=2C if so what is th
e size of the bearing=2C and where to obtain the bearing.
Regards.
Alan.
PS. Have you checked your nose wheel bearing for wear=2C
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439629#439629
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
I placed mine right after the cylinder coolant outlet as I want to sense the hottest
spot.
Christoph
#223
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 19, 2015, at 23:06, "Martin Tuck" wrote:
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Where do you think I should put the EIS water/coolant temperature sensor?
>
> I'm thinking in the long hose that runs from the radiator to the 'distributor
pot' on top of the engine.
>
> Regards,
> Martin Tuck
> N152MT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
Chris,
I did the same.
Dave G-LDVO
Sent from my iPhone
> On 20 Mar 2015, at 13:59, Christoph Both wrote:
>
>
> I placed mine right after the cylinder coolant outlet as I want to sense the
hottest spot.
> Christoph
> #223
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 19, 2015, at 23:06, "Martin Tuck" wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi guys,
>>
>> Where do you think I should put the EIS water/coolant temperature sensor?
>>
>> I'm thinking in the long hose that runs from the radiator to the 'distributor
pot' on top of the engine.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Martin Tuck
>> N152MT
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Water Coolant Sensor location? |
I removed my coolant tank and TIG welded on some 10g aluminum, cut a thread
and installed the sensor. It sounds like a lot of messing around but it
isn't really and it's in the ideal place.
Installing a T means another connection in the coolant system along with
another failure point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
| From: | "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr> |
In spite of what Rotax say in their Manuals, I do not think that monitoring coolant
temperature is necessary. This is why:
1. The coolant is heated by the cylinder heads. So obviously coolant temperature
is always below cylinder head temperature.
2. Conventional water based coolant boils at 120C at the 1.2 bar pressure, at sea
level.
3. Anytime the hottest cylinder CHT exceeds 120C, there will be at least some local
boiling.
3.1. Then, if the engine is running at cruise RPM or more, the water pump insures
a good flow through the cylinder heads, the bubbles are pushed downstream to
the cooler and condense, so there is no boiling over.
3.2. If the engine is at idle on the ground, while you are waiting for your take
off clearance, then it will boil over. Moreover, as soon as CHT reaches 110C,
you must either shut down the engine or take off quickly. If you wait a few
more minutes and let the CHT reach 115C, then the only choice is to take off immediately.
Then the CHT will decrease instantly. If you shut down at this point,
then the heat transferred from the hot engine to the coolant will make it
to exceed its boiling point and you are facing a big mess.
So the only advantage of monitoring the coolant temperature would be to allow the
CHT to slightly exceed 120C, for example during a full power climb in very
hot conditions, while the coolant temp would stay slightly below 120C. It seems
to me this is a very marginal and risky advantage.
So in my opinion, monitoring the CHT of the hottest cylinder and considering the
redline is 110C on the ground and 120C in flight is good enough. This is especially
true on the Europa where cooling is very good in flight but very marginal
on the ground.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL, XS Monowheel, 912ULS, 1195 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439699#439699
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Knowing the actual fuel level? |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
We have a mono which means fuel quantity measuring devices will indicate differently
depending on whether the aircraft is in level flight attitude or ground
attitude. Adds a bit of complexity to the problem!
We rely most on the fuel computer built into our GRT EIS and EFIS. This has two
separate FlowScan transducers, one for in and one for return. It has proven
to be accurate, probably within 1/2 gallon. It's hard to know how accurate it
is, since it is difficult to measure fuel quantity accurately with a sight
gauge.
We have a sight gauge positioned on the rear wall of the cockpit module and connected
to the port side tank water drain. This is calibrated for ground attitude
and we use it when refueling. We compare it to the fuel computer. Due to
it's location, it is not visible in flight.
Andrew Sarangan suggested an alternative to a sight gauge. We don't know what the
current status of this novel idea is. Here is the thread:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=103987&highlight=fuel+level
In flight we use two differential pressure sensors, one on each tank drain. The
transducers are Freescale MPXV4006DP. They output 0-5 volts which our EIS accepts
as aux inputs. Our GRT EFIS has a tank calibration table so we account
for the shape of the tank there and we did that calibration in level flight attitude.
We have each sensor calibrated from 0 - 3 gal. So each will show the
amount of fuel in its 3 gal side. When both are at 3 gal, we then display both
sensors as having 6 gal and they change together. When we have less than
6 gal on board, we just add the amount each shows. We ignore the fuel quantity
indications from these sensors when on the ground!
This system works pretty well. We are confident enough to use fuel out of the
port tank until no more than 1 gallon remains. We then switch to the stbd tank
and complete the flight. Of course when low on fuel, we monitor the fuel computer
and the differential fuel pressure closely.
Ira, we found that with a forward facing tank vent on the belly of the aircraft,
there is enough ram air pressure that we had to use differential transducers
connected to the tank vent. We tried differential sensors vented to ambient
pressure and found large errors.
Jim & Heather
N241BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439702#439702
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "goff" <goffmoore(at)aol.com> |
David,
Could you give me a link to download your complete article on ditching?
Thanks in advance ,
Goff
Goff Moore
G-CHOX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439705#439705
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
Absolutely agree with you Remi.
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
> On 21/03/2015, at 10:31 pm, Remi Guerner wrote:
>
>
> In spite of what Rotax say in their Manuals, I do not think that monitoring coolant
temperature is necessary. This is why:
> 1. The coolant is heated by the cylinder heads. So obviously coolant temperature
is always below cylinder head temperature.
> 2. Conventional water based coolant boils at 120C at the 1.2 bar pressure, at
sea level.
> 3. Anytime the hottest cylinder CHT exceeds 120C, there will be at least some
local boiling.
> 3.1. Then, if the engine is running at cruise RPM or more, the water pump insures
a good flow through the cylinder heads, the bubbles are pushed downstream
to the cooler and condense, so there is no boiling over.
> 3.2. If the engine is at idle on the ground, while you are waiting for your take
off clearance, then it will boil over. Moreover, as soon as CHT reaches 110C,
you must either shut down the engine or take off quickly. If you wait a few
more minutes and let the CHT reach 115C, then the only choice is to take off
immediately. Then the CHT will decrease instantly. If you shut down at this point,
then the heat transferred from the hot engine to the coolant will make it
to exceed its boiling point and you are facing a big mess.
> So the only advantage of monitoring the coolant temperature would be to allow
the CHT to slightly exceed 120C, for example during a full power climb in very
hot conditions, while the coolant temp would stay slightly below 120C. It seems
to me this is a very marginal and risky advantage.
> So in my opinion, monitoring the CHT of the hottest cylinder and considering
the redline is 110C on the ground and 120C in flight is good enough. This is especially
true on the Europa where cooling is very good in flight but very marginal
on the ground.
> Remi Guerner
> F-PGKL, XS Monowheel, 912ULS, 1195 hours
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439699#439699
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
I have done without a coolant temp for years so I'm inclined to agree. I'm also
tired of looking at at a row of blanks for coolant temp on my EIS. Just looking
to get a reading on the display.
Martin
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 21, 2015, at 6:38 PM, Timward wrote:
>
>
> Absolutely agree with you Remi.
> Tim
>
> Tim Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch, 8052
> New Zealand.
>
> ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>
> Ph 64 3 3515166
> Mob 0210640221
>
>
>> On 21/03/2015, at 10:31 pm, Remi Guerner wrote:
>>
>>
>> In spite of what Rotax say in their Manuals, I do not think that monitoring
coolant temperature is necessary. This is why:
>> 1. The coolant is heated by the cylinder heads. So obviously coolant temperature
is always below cylinder head temperature.
>> 2. Conventional water based coolant boils at 120C at the 1.2 bar pressure, at
sea level.
>> 3. Anytime the hottest cylinder CHT exceeds 120C, there will be at least some
local boiling.
>> 3.1. Then, if the engine is running at cruise RPM or more, the water pump insures
a good flow through the cylinder heads, the bubbles are pushed downstream
to the cooler and condense, so there is no boiling over.
>> 3.2. If the engine is at idle on the ground, while you are waiting for your
take off clearance, then it will boil over. Moreover, as soon as CHT reaches 110C,
you must either shut down the engine or take off quickly. If you wait a few
more minutes and let the CHT reach 115C, then the only choice is to take off
immediately. Then the CHT will decrease instantly. If you shut down at this
point, then the heat transferred from the hot engine to the coolant will make
it to exceed its boiling point and you are facing a big mess.
>> So the only advantage of monitoring the coolant temperature would be to allow
the CHT to slightly exceed 120C, for example during a full power climb in very
hot conditions, while the coolant temp would stay slightly below 120C. It seems
to me this is a very marginal and risky advantage.
>> So in my opinion, monitoring the CHT of the hottest cylinder and considering
the redline is 110C on the ground and 120C in flight is good enough. This is
especially true on the Europa where cooling is very good in flight but very marginal
on the ground.
>> Remi Guerner
>> F-PGKL, XS Monowheel, 912ULS, 1195 hours
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439699#439699
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
Hi there All,
Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use Mogas only)?
Cheers,
Max Cointe
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?utf-8?Q?Gert_Dalgaard_S=C3=B8rensen?= <stabelvej9(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Max
I fly on mo-gas and use water-drain - never seen a drop of water.
I always leave the ac with full tank.
AC parked in hangar during the summer, and in my isolated shop from November to
April.
Regards Gert
Gert Dalgaard,
Denmark
OY-GDS
Europa Mono/914/750 hrs.
> Den 22/03/2015 kl. 08.41 skrev Max Cointe (Free) :
>
>
> Hi there All,
>
> Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use Mogas only)?
>
> Cheers,
> Max Cointe
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
>
> F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
Have never seen any water in 13 years, even though I do not regularly
fill tank before putting plane away. Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ
On 2015-03-22 07:41, Max Cointe (Free) wrote:
>
> Hi there All,
>
> Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use Mogas only)?
>
> Cheers,
> Max Cointe
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
>
> F-PLDJ Dyn'Aro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
>
Links:
------
[1] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[2] http://forums.matronics.com
[3] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net> |
Hi all !
I had an incident of substantial ingress of water once while parked
overnight at Zell Am See in torrential down pour most of the night.
I have adjusted the =9Cpinch=9D on the filler
=9Co=9D Ring and mostly tape up the filler cap if left
outside ever. The aircraft is always kept in it=99s covered
trailer and I try to fly exclusively on Mogas but don=99t leave
it full but I have water drains to both sides of the tank ALSO Mini
Andair filters on both fuel flow lines.. Of course everyone will
remember my misfortune of a restriction at the finger filters once,
at which time Neville Eyre suggested =9CI shave the dog=9D !
but the dog has long gone and I have =9Cimproved the tank finger
filter arrangements=9D . However I have also in the past
discovered some contamination in the thimble filters in the Electric
Pumps ( the removal of these for inspection requires extreme care , can
only be repaired by complete replacement of the Pumps !) Hope
I=99m not tempting providence by writing all this !
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG. 914 Rotax.
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Sent: 22 March 2015 10:11
Subject: Re: Europa-List: water drain
Have never seen any water in 13 years, even though I do not regularly
fill tank before putting plane away. Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ
On 2015-03-22 07:41, Max Cointe (Free) wrote:
Hi there All,
Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use
Mogas only)?
Cheers,
Max Cointe
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn'A=C3=A9ro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
ics.com
.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearing |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Thanks Guys,
As you may know i am not a builder, but have down loaded a diagram of the nose
wheel , I see it has tapered roller bearings, which as far as i can see the outer
shell is bonded to the actual 2 parts of the wheel hub,
The wheel component is made in two parts and bolted together to make the wheel
complete, and if necessary unbolted to split the wheel in order to repair a tyre
puncher,
If the outer shell of the bearing is bonded to these two wheel hubs you can not
split the wheel apart the bonded bearing shell holds it togeter ,, well not quit
true you need heat, and i don,t fly with a blow torch in the back of the plane.
I am not an engineer either, but why could there not be two smaller width bearing
used, each being bonded to its respected half wheel hub, so each contains its
own bearing and can be split apart easily .
Also bonding why bond, surly there are bearing with( don,t know what you call it
) but say 3 projected lug locators so as to drop into a located hub housing
to prevent the outer shell from turning.
I like 5 minute bearing changes,
Please comment and inform me of the why not,s . Basically I would just like some
explanation to satisfy my own mind, I may tend to see thing to simple.
I believe a mod has already been worked out for the nose wheel which I am also
looking into, and may have done,
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439723#439723
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Max,
Fly only AvGas. No drains. Have gascolator before pump. No inline
filters. Keep the tank full whenever possible. Use a cover if I ever
have to park outside when traveling.
Have never seen evidence water in the tank.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
> On Mar 22, 2015, at 1:41 AM, Max Cointe (Free)
wrote:
>
>
> Hi there All,
>
> Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use
Mogas only)?
>
> Cheers,
> Max Cointe
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
>
> F-PLDJ Dyn=99A=C3=A9ro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
Use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
Dave G-LDVO
Sent from my iPad
> On 22 Mar 2015, at 07:41, Max Cointe (Free) wrote:
>
>
> Hi there All,
>
> Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use Mogas only)?
>
> Cheers,
> Max Cointe
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
>
> F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi
Same, use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
> On 23/03/2015, at 6:09 am, david park wrote:
>
> Use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grahamhall123(at)gmail.com" <grahamhall123(at)gmail.com> |
Since getting my ppl in the late 80's I have always checked fuel drains as part
of pre-flight, even when pushed to get going on business trips. On one occasion
one tank of my 182 was clear fluid which did not smell like fuel and did not
evaporate. Transpired I had about 2 liters rainwater in one tank. I will always
check water drains- it only takes a minute and from my own experience is a
minute well spent. 'to fail to look is to look to fail'.
On Mar 22, 2015, at 7:41 AM, "Max Cointe (Free)" wrote:
>
> Hi there All,
>
> Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use Mogas only)?
>
> Cheers,
> Max Cointe
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
>
> F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
I had a small number of occasions when I found a few drops of water in my mogas.
My aircraft was parked outside for several years and had Jaxida covers. But
the fabric got old and needed to be washed and treated with water-proofing liquid
more frequently.
Rarely after heavy prolonged rain storms, I would find a few drops in the fuel
sample. The cap and 'O' ring were tight enough, but I guessed that the fabric
of the covers in contact with the tank breather tube was acting like a wick to
convey water into the breather. When I taped plastic over the tube before putting
on the cover, there was no water ingress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439739#439739
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com> |
Me too, almost all Mogas (with up to 10% ethanol) and never seen water.
> On Mar 22, 2015, at 11:50 AM, Timward wrote:
>
>
> Hi
> Same, use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch, 8052
> New Zealand.
>
> ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>
> Ph 64 3 3515166
> Mob 0210640221
>
>
>> On 23/03/2015, at 6:09 am, david park wrote:
>>
>> Use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Carpenter <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net> |
Never in twelve years found water in Europa, 100LL or Mogas. Did find water in
182 after it left out in rain with original cap not tight. Went to Monarch caps
and no further water but I still check if any plane been outside in rain.
Fueling at strange fields will get you water as happened to me twice.
Sent from my iPad
Ken Carpenter
> On Mar 22, 2015, at 3:56 PM, Grahamhall123(at)gmail.com
wrote:
>
>
> Since getting my ppl in the late 80's I have always checked fuel drains as part
of pre-flight, even when pushed to get going on business trips. On one occasion
one tank of my 182 was clear fluid which did not smell like fuel and did
not evaporate. Transpired I had about 2 liters rainwater in one tank. I will always
check water drains- it only takes a minute and from my own experience is
a minute well spent. 'to fail to look is to look to fail'.
>
>> On Mar 22, 2015, at 7:41 AM, "Max Cointe (Free)" wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi there All,
>>
>> Who uses water drain? Who as ever seen water in the fuel there (I use Mogas
only)?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Max Cointe
>> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
>> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
>>
>> F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
>> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearing |
Alan,
Be sure to note Matco MFGs. website or my website on the proper way to
torque wheel bearings. The inner race must not move (rubber seal does not
rotate).
The nose wheel is a Matco unit also. The easy method of fixing the bearing
is by axle nut torque with the inner race locked to a flange on the inner
race. Tough to do on a nose wheel.
The old style NG06 axle (the smooth one with the dumb spacers), is a piece
of cake to maintain.
To remove the axle from the wheel on a used aircraft:
No torches.
Put the wheel flat on a large vice or a couple of thick timbers across the
wheel rim with the axle in the slot. Whack the end of the axle with a dead
blow or wood mallet. The bearing will pop right off with no damage. Flip
the wheel over and hit the other side of the axle. Both bearings are free.
(I only drive one side off and clean and pack the other on the axle).
Take a single edge razor or a razor knife, and take off the Loctite, clean
with a bit of acetone. Pack the bearings as usual. Clean the inner race of
any grease.
Do not use a lot of Loctite 638, a small drop or two is sufficient on the
bearing.
Slide on the other parts and slip into the yoke. In 15 minutes, go fly.
(Realistically, do the mains next.)
So it takes 6 minutes to do a nose axle grease job.
If you desire, buy the new axle with a nut on the Europa website. Matco
basically copied this design. See their website. Europa Loctite's on the
nut, and Matco came up with a new nut with a set screw in it. The axle now
has a slot. This was incorporated on the RV10. Loctite works.
Split wheels on aircraft (not ultralights) are split rims due to structural
concerns. Our main wheels only hold 650 pounds of aircraft weight, right.
WRONG, these wheels are designed for impact loads exceeding 4000 lbs of
force. Hence the 1.25" bearings (stronger), the centrifugally cast wheels
with the extra meat on the bearing race areas are needed. Bearings must be
rigidly in contact with their races and not rotating on the axle to meet the
structural load conditions. No bearing wiggle or slop. In fact, properly
seated, the wheel is a bit draggy.
Split wheels are a pain, but strong for their weight. I highly recommend my
clients put a piece of one inch heavy paper ring on the inside of one of the
wheels to prevent pinching the tube when assembling the wheel. If my guys
in the shop pinch a tube not using the paper safety ring, they pay for it.
Hope this sheds some light on the wheels.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2015 7:51 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Nose Wheel Bearing
Thanks Guys,
As you may know i am not a builder, but have down loaded a diagram of the
nose wheel , I see it has tapered roller bearings, which as far as i can
see the outer shell is bonded to the actual 2 parts of the wheel hub,
The wheel component is made in two parts and bolted together to make the
wheel complete, and if necessary unbolted to split the wheel in order to
repair a tyre puncher,
If the outer shell of the bearing is bonded to these two wheel hubs you can
not split the wheel apart the bonded bearing shell holds it togeter ,, well
not quit true you need heat, and i don,t fly with a blow torch in the back
of the plane.
I am not an engineer either, but why could there not be two smaller width
bearing used, each being bonded to its respected half wheel hub, so each
contains its own bearing and can be split apart easily .
Also bonding why bond, surly there are bearing with( don,t know what you
call it ) but say 3 projected lug locators so as to drop into a located hub
housing to prevent the outer shell from turning.
I like 5 minute bearing changes,
Please comment and inform me of the why not,s . Basically I would just like
some explanation to satisfy my own mind, I may tend to see thing to simple.
I believe a mod has already been worked out for the nose wheel which I am
also looking into, and may have done,
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439723#439723
________________________________________________________________________________
And the reason for that is probably there in that sentence.
The more ethanol in your fuel, the less likely you you will ever see
water at the drains.
Ethanol readily attaches itself to water meaning that any water
contamination is distributed throughout the fuel. Gone are the days when
it sat conveniently at the bottom of the tank waiting to be drained.
The truth is that there is probably already water in your fuel before
you ever put it into your aircraft.
Water is notoriously difficult to detect and even harder to quantify.
Fuel distribution companies dip their storage tanks with a crude
dipstick coated with a water sensitive paste that changes colour when
water is detected. More modern float detectors (carefully weighted to
float on water, but under the fuel) used in bulk storage tanks work to a
degree, but the non-predictable way that water distributes itself
throughout the fuel means that the indication is little better.
There is no pressing desire by these companies to improve the situation
since there is a healthy profit to be made by selling water at fuel
prices, (a trick that the poultry and pork industries learned many years
ago).
My only advice would be that if you ever do drain a significant quantity
of water from a tank known to contain ethanol fuel, discard the entire
contents as the water will still be attached to the ethanol that was
added to raise the octane rating and the remaining fuel could seriously
damage your engine.
Nigel
On 22/03/2015 21:13, Kevin Klinefelter wrote:
>
> Me too, almost all Mogas (with up to 10% ethanol) and never seen water.
>
>
>> On Mar 22, 2015, at 11:50 AM, Timward wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi
>> Same, use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Tim Ward
>> 12 Waiwetu Street
>> Fendalton,
>> Christchurch, 8052
>> New Zealand.
>>
>> ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>>
>> Ph 64 3 3515166
>> Mob 0210640221
>>
>>
>>> On 23/03/2015, at 6:09 am, david park wrote:
>>>
>>> Use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr> |
I have found a lot of water in one wing tank of a rented Robin DR400 after parking
one night under heavy rain. It was about 30 years ago at Sandown, Isle of
Wight. I would have been in trouble if I had taken off on that tank without prior
draining. Since I fly my Europa (13 years and more than 1100 hours flown)
I never found water while draining the tank using the optional drains. I never
found water in the gascolator either. But I find drops of water in the carb bowls
occasionally. So I keep draining.
In my opinion, the drains as designed in factory Mod 33, are not very effective
because the water has first to overcome gravity to have a chance to get out and
the volume trapped inside the hose between the bottom of the tank and the drain
is way too big. I made my own mod to the mod using 4mm hose instead of 8mm.
This reduces the trapped volume by 75%, but I still have some doubt about the
effectivity of the system.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439756#439756
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
Thks to each and everyone who took time to answer. Rmi (how are you doing?)
you've stolen my words! I'm currently replacing all the pipes and no
applying Mod 33 will save 6 connections (6 additional risks of leak) and one
meter long of pipe for a very contestable result...
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 540 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1660 heures
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Remi Guerner
Envoy: lundi 23 mars 2015 10:21
: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet: Europa-List: Re: water drain
-->
I have found a lot of water in one wing tank of a rented Robin DR400 after
parking one night under heavy rain. It was about 30 years ago at Sandown,
Isle of Wight. I would have been in trouble if I had taken off on that tank
without prior draining. Since I fly my Europa (13 years and more than 1100
hours flown) I never found water while draining the tank using the optional
drains. I never found water in the gascolator either. But I find drops of
water in the carb bowls occasionally. So I keep draining.
In my opinion, the drains as designed in factory Mod 33, are not very
effective because the water has first to overcome gravity to have a chance
to get out and the volume trapped inside the hose between the bottom of the
tank and the drain is way too big. I made my own mod to the mod using 4mm
hose instead of 8mm. This reduces the trapped volume by 75%, but I still
have some doubt about the effectivity of the system.
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439756#439756
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com> |
Well stated Nigel. That's why I made sure to mention ethanol.
I perform the test for ethanol on fuel I buy periodically, where you add a measured
amount of water to a sampler, shake it up and the water level increases
with the absorption of the ethanol.
I sure wish they didn't put that crap in fuel.
My Monowheel is based in eastern California (4100' desert climate) so moisture
is not typically a condensation problem at home base. But I'm going to be heading
to Florida for Sun&Fun soon !
Kevin
914/Airmaster
> On Mar 23, 2015, at 1:44 AM, Nigel Graham <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> And the reason for that is probably there in that sentence.
> The more ethanol in your fuel, the less likely you you will ever see water at
the drains.
> Ethanol readily attaches itself to water meaning that any water contamination
is distributed throughout the fuel. Gone are the days when it sat conveniently
at the bottom of the tank waiting to be drained.
>
> The truth is that there is probably already water in your fuel before you ever
put it into your aircraft.
> Water is notoriously difficult to detect and even harder to quantify. Fuel distribution
companies dip their storage tanks with a crude dipstick coated with
a water sensitive paste that changes colour when water is detected. More modern
float detectors (carefully weighted to float on water, but under the fuel)
used in bulk storage tanks work to a degree, but the non-predictable way that
water distributes itself throughout the fuel means that the indication is little
better.
>
> There is no pressing desire by these companies to improve the situation since
there is a healthy profit to be made by selling water at fuel prices, (a trick
that the poultry and pork industries learned many years ago).
>
> My only advice would be that if you ever do drain a significant quantity of water
from a tank known to contain ethanol fuel, discard the entire contents as
the water will still be attached to the ethanol that was added to raise the octane
rating and the remaining fuel could seriously damage your engine.
>
> Nigel
>
>
>> On 22/03/2015 21:13, Kevin Klinefelter wrote:
>>
>> Me too, almost all Mogas (with up to 10% ethanol) and never seen water.
>>
>>
>>> On Mar 22, 2015, at 11:50 AM, Timward wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi
>>> Same, use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> Tim Ward
>>> 12 Waiwetu Street
>>> Fendalton,
>>> Christchurch, 8052
>>> New Zealand.
>>>
>>> ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>>>
>>> Ph 64 3 3515166
>>> Mob 0210640221
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 23/03/2015, at 6:09 am, david park wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Use Mogas occasional Avgas, never seen water.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scudrunner" <howardbrooksster(at)gmail.com> |
I always refuel my Europa before my walk around and test for water at the end -
allows time for any water to settle?. I also use a Mr Funnel water seperator
funnel though. Fuel is mogas. I drain half a jam jar per side (perhaps it should
be a full one?). Only recently (cold winter) have I seen a cloudy sample with
"bubbles" that sink rather than float. Once settled, it was no more than half
a teaspoon. I'm assuming that this was condensation in a 3/4 empty tank? (aircraft
hangared).
Howard
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439782#439782
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com> |
Coulld be dilute water/alcohol which would sink?=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___
_____________________________=0A From: Scudrunner <howardbrooksster(at)gmail.c
om>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Monday, 23 March 2015, 17:36
=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re: water drain=0A =0A=0A--> Europa-List message p
osted by: "Scudrunner" =0A=0AI always refuel my
Europa before my walk around and test for water at the end - allows time f
or any water to settle?. I also use a Mr Funnel water seperator funnel thou
gh. Fuel is mogas. I drain half a jam jar per side (perhaps it should be a
full one?). Only recently (cold winter) have I seen a cloudy sample with "b
ubbles" that sink rather than float. Once settled, it was no more than half
a teaspoon. I'm assuming that this was condensation in a 3/4 empty tank? (
aircraft hangared).=0A=0AHoward=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:
=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439782#439782=0A=0A=0A
==================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "goff" <goffmoore(at)aol.com> |
David,
Thanks for the off-line replies.
Goff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439795#439795
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearing |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Bud.
Hope the weather is good to you this year.
Many thanks for your detailed post on my nose wheel, it is nice to receive
and thanks for your time it is much appreciated . My plane was Number 96 a Mono,
finished in 2000 so guess it the early axial , After about 30 hours and a couple
of prop strikes, it had the Mono Tri Conversion carried out by Europa Aircraft
Com, My guess is a Mono Tri Conversion Leeds to a stronger aeroplane than
the standard Tri gear, just my guess i am not a builder ,
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439810#439810
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gustavo Sessarego <gsessare(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Coolant Sensor location? |
hello everybody=2C
somebody knows how is the procces to leave this list?
regards
> From: ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Water Coolant Sensor location?
> Date: Sun=2C 22 Mar 2015 12:38:34 +1300
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Absolutely agree with you Remi.
> Tim
>
> Tim Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street
> Fendalton=2C
> Christchurch=2C 8052
> New Zealand.
>
> ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
>
> Ph 64 3 3515166
> Mob 0210640221
>
>
> > On 21/03/2015=2C at 10:31 pm=2C Remi Guerner wr
ote:
> >
r>
> >
> > In spite of what Rotax say in their Manuals=2C I do not think that moni
toring coolant temperature is necessary. This is why:
> > 1. The coolant is heated by the cylinder heads. So obviously coolant te
mperature is always below cylinder head temperature.
> > 2. Conventional water based coolant boils at 120=B0C at the 1.2 bar pre
ssure=2C at sea level.
> > 3. Anytime the hottest cylinder CHT exceeds 120=B0C=2C there will be at
least some local boiling.
> > 3.1. Then=2C if the engine is running at cruise RPM or more=2C the wate
r pump insures a good flow through the cylinder heads=2C the bubbles are pu
shed downstream to the cooler and condense=2C so there is no boiling over.
> > 3.2. If the engine is at idle on the ground=2C while you are waiting fo
r your take off clearance=2C then it will boil over. Moreover=2C as soon as
CHT reaches 110=B0C=2C you must either shut down the engine or take off qu
ickly. If you wait a few more minutes and let the CHT reach 115=B0C=2C then
the only choice is to take off immediately. Then the CHT will decrease ins
tantly. If you shut down at this point=2C then the heat transferred from th
e hot engine to the coolant will make it to exceed its boiling point and yo
u are facing a big mess.
> > So the only advantage of monitoring the coolant temperature would be to
allow the CHT to slightly exceed 120=B0C=2C for example during a full powe
r climb in very hot conditions=2C while the coolant temp would stay slightl
y below 120=B0C. It seems to me this is a very marginal and risky advantage
.
> > So in my opinion=2C monitoring the CHT of the hottest cylinder and cons
idering the redline is 110=B0C on the ground and 120=B0C in flight is good
enough. This is especially true on the Europa where cooling is very good in
flight but very marginal on the ground.
> > Remi Guerner
> > F-PGKL=2C XS Monowheel=2C 912ULS=2C 1195 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439699#439699
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Foreign registered Europa |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
It is possible that I may be transferred to the US. Does anyone know how
to register a foreign built Europa in the US?
thanks Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank moved!! |
After 4 uneventful flying seasons I have been carrying out the annual
inspection prior to the 5th.
The aircraft had been garaged for 3 months with wings and tailplanes removed
and the fuselage supported on dummy spars with wheeled supports.
On checking the controls a rubbing sound was evident on moving the stick
fore & aft and this was traced to contact of the Pitch torque tube CS10 with
the rubber hose
securing the port side Tank outlet fitting. Stb side clearance is just
adequate.
This is very strange as I don't recall any possibility of this happening
during construction so a reasonable clearance must have existed then.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Can the tank have moved UP?
What is the fix?
Comments and advice please.
Mike Gamble
XS Mono #440
G-CFMP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi, All.
Have the standard GPS installation in my Europa, and I am getting a constant timed
flash of interference coming through the head set.
Switch the GPS OFF and the flash of interference stops,
Pull the unit out of its housing by about 3 inches with it turned on and the interference
has gone,
What is causing this constant timed flash of interference.
1.If I can fix the cause of it,
2.How can I shield the GPS unit from picking this signal up,
As I said pull the unit away from its housing by about 3 " and its gone.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439968#439968
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter & Anthea Austin <p-a.austin(at)xnet.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/27/15 |
___________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Europa-List: Skyforce GPS
> From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
>
> I experienced the same problem, traced to the Skyforce antenna wire,
my GPS sits above my Radio (Becker)
> and the coiled up Antenna wire had moved close to the Radio. wrapped
the coil in tin foil put it above the GPS and attached it to the
underside of the Panel, problem solved.
Hope this helps.
Peter
ZK-ZEB
> Hi, All.
> Have the standard GPS installation in my Europa, and I am getting a
constant timed
> flash of interference coming through the head set.
>
> Switch the GPS OFF and the flash of interference stops,
>
> Pull the unit out of its housing by about 3 inches with it turned on
and the interference
> has gone,
>
> What is causing this constant timed flash of interference.
>
> 1.If I can fix the cause of it,
> 2.How can I shield the GPS unit from picking this signal up,
> As I said pull the unit away from its housing by about 3 " and its
gone.
>
> Regards.
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439968#439968
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ring mount to engine |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Im am fitting the ring mount to engine. There is a lot of stuff in the
way...for example coolant hoses to the cylinder heads and some of the
wiring.
I dont want to remove any more than I have to. What needs to be removed in
order to fit the ring mount? For example does one need to remove the
starter motor?
Thanks in advance
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hickling <keithhickling(at)clear.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to engine |
Hi William,
If it=99s a 912 you are fitting, here is a comprehensive reply
from Bud Yearly when I asked the same question. Note the issue of the
lower coolant hoses and changing the angle of one of the lower coolant
hose nozzles from the water pump while you have it off. All not too
difficult when you remove the right bits. I didn=99t have to
remove the starter motor.
Good luck!
Regards,
Keith Hickling
New Zealand.
From: William Daniell
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 10:55 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Ring mount to engine
Im am fitting the ring mount to engine. There is a lot of stuff in the
way...for example coolant hoses to the cylinder heads and some of the
wiring.
I dont want to remove any more than I have to. What needs to be removed
in order to fit the ring mount? For example does one need to remove the
starter motor?
Thanks in advance
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alan_hunter1664" <alan_hunter1664(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
I've started to put together my door latches and drawings indicate the shoot bolt
push rods are connected to the operating handle with AN525-10R8 screws with
a AN960-10 and a AN960-10L washers under the head. with this configuration the
screw only just makes the thread of the link bar. The link bars have been constructed
in accordance with the dimensions in the build manual. Anyone else
come across this issue?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439995#439995
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce GPS |
| From: | "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Alan,
I suffered from this interference for a long time. It seems to come from the screen
on the Skyforce. I tried all sorts of suppression but as the interference
is from the screen, direct to the radio, not in the wiring nothing worked.
I eventually increased the suppression on my Becker radio and it disappeared.
Barry
--------
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
At EDLM - Germany
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439996#439996
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scanlan <aspenbuild(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to engine |
Hi Will,
Keith=99s advice is spot on, although I felt I did have to remove
the starter motor, also changing the angle of the water outlet slightly.
Just take your time, I did mine on the dining room table much to the
consternation of my good lady who questioned why I was taking a new
engine apart!
Richard
G-CEIW
> On 28 Mar 2015, at 21:55, William Daniell
wrote:
>
> Im am fitting the ring mount to engine. There is a lot of stuff in
the way...for example coolant hoses to the cylinder heads and some of
the wiring.
> I dont want to remove any more than I have to. What needs to be
removed in order to fit the ring mount? For example does one need to
remove the starter motor?
> Thanks in advance
> Will
>
>
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dpy01 <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk> |
Are you sure the parts you describe are not pivoting on Spring Pins, EUR007, and
not bolts?
Alan
Sent from my iPad
> On 29 Mar 2015, at 10:40, alan_hunter1664 wrote:
>
>
> I've started to put together my door latches and drawings indicate the shoot
bolt push rods are connected to the operating handle with AN525-10R8 screws with
a AN960-10 and a AN960-10L washers under the head. with this configuration
the screw only just makes the thread of the link bar. The link bars have been
constructed in accordance with the dimensions in the build manual. Anyone else
come across this issue?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439995#439995
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
The Earth is once again nearing that fabled position in its orbit around the sun
informing us that Sun N Fun is nearly here.
Time to start planning the Annual Europa Engineering Meeting!
As it happens, I am in Seffner this week after a lovely flight in the Europa
from Georgia to Plant City. I will scout the favored venues to make sure
they are prepared for our boisterous crowd.
Perhaps we can start planning a meeting time. Personally, I would like
to see an evening between Wednesday and Friday. Other thoughts?
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440000#440000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
The Earth is once again nearing that fabled position in its orbit around the sun
informing us that Sun N Fun is nearly here.
Time to start planning the Annual Europa Engineering Meeting!
As it happens, I am in Seffner this week after a lovely flight in the Europa
from Georgia to Plant City. I will scout the favored venues to make sure
they are prepared for our boisterous crowd.
Perhaps we can start planning a meeting time. Personally, I would like
to see an evening between Wednesday and Friday. Other thoughts?
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440001#440001
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to engine |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Richard and Keith
thanks very much very useful.
Richard, I notice that you said "changing the angle" whereas bud's advice
is to change the elbow from 80 to 45 deg - did you change the elbow or did
you just turn it to get a better angle?
Secondly which manual did you use to dismantle the water pump?
Many thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 7:07 AM, Richard Scanlan wrote:
> Hi Will,
>
> Keith=99s advice is spot on, although I felt I did have to remove t
he
> starter motor, also changing the angle of the water outlet slightly. Just
> take your time, I did mine on the dining room table much to the
> consternation of my good lady who questioned why I was taking a new
> engine apart!
>
> Richard
>
> G-CEIW
>
> On 28 Mar 2015, at 21:55, William Daniell
> wrote:
>
> Im am fitting the ring mount to engine. There is a lot of stuff in the
> way...for example coolant hoses to the cylinder heads and some of the
> wiring.
> I dont want to remove any more than I have to. What needs to be removed
> in order to fit the ring mount? For example does one need to remove the
> starter motor?
> Thanks in advance
> Will
>
> *
>
> class="">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> class="">http://forums.matronics.com
> class="">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
===========
tronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scanlan <aspenbuild(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to engine |
Hi Will,
I don=99t remember changing the elbow, think I just repositioned
it. The clearance is very tight, but it=99s a few years ago and I
would have to drop the cowling off to remind myself. At the time I was
=99smarting=99 a bit as Skydrive supplied the mount loose
and then informed me I would invalidate the warranty by fitting the
mount myself.
I didn=99t use any manual for dismantling or reassembly. As a new
engine all components were =99sweet=99 to pull apart, being
an ex-mechanic helped. Thinking about it now reminds me the buggers
didn=99t fit the top cooling shroud either so I had to take at
least one of the manifolds off as well. Shame they lost the Uk
distribution.
Richard
> On 29 Mar 2015, at 16:38, William Daniell
wrote:
>
> Richard and Keith
> thanks very much very useful.
>
> Richard, I notice that you said "changing the angle" whereas bud's
advice is to change the elbow from 80 to 45 deg - did you change the
elbow or did you just turn it to get a better angle?
>
> Secondly which manual did you use to dismantle the water pump?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Will
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
> On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 7:07 AM, Richard Scanlan > wrote:
> Hi Will,
>
> Keith=99s advice is spot on, although I felt I did have to
remove the starter motor, also changing the angle of the water outlet
slightly. Just take your time, I did mine on the dining room table much
to the consternation of my good lady who questioned why I was taking a
new engine apart!
>
> Richard
>
> G-CEIW
>> On 28 Mar 2015, at 21:55, William Daniell
>
wrote:
>>
>> Im am fitting the ring mount to engine. There is a lot of stuff in
the way...for example coolant hoses to the cylinder heads and some of
the wiring.
>> I dont want to remove any more than I have to. What needs to be
removed in order to fit the ring mount? For example does one need to
remove the starter motor?
>> Thanks in advance
>> Will
>>
>>
>>
>> class="">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
>> class="">http://forums.matronics.com
>> class="">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>
>
>
>
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
>
>
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skyforce GPS |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Barry,
from the screen ???
If I hold the unit just a few inches out of its housing the timed screech stops.
its like pulse signal, I was thinking in wrapping the case with something radio
wave won,t travel through, leads a bit heavy any idea's
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440017#440017
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hickling <keithhickling(at)clear.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to engine |
Hi William,
Sorry, I had forgotten the issue of changing the outlet if you have an
80 degree one. As you will see in the attachments, I already had 45
degree nozzles and so just needed to rotate the one in question.
I=99m not sure whether they changed the nozzle angles on all
engines after a certain date, but as you can see on the photos mine were
all around 40-45 deg as supplied with the engine. I will attach a
further reply from Bud to this issue confirming that I just needed to
rotate the existing outlet nozzle.
Regards,
Keith.
From: William Daniell
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ring mount to engine
Richard and Keith
thanks very much very useful.
Richard, I notice that you said "changing the angle" whereas bud's
advice is to change the elbow from 80 to 45 deg - did you change the
elbow or did you just turn it to get a better angle?
Secondly which manual did you use to dismantle the water pump?
Many thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 7:07 AM, Richard Scanlan
wrote:
Hi Will,
Keith=99s advice is spot on, although I felt I did have to
remove the starter motor, also changing the angle of the water outlet
slightly. Just take your time, I did mine on the dining room table much
to the consternation of my good lady who questioned why I was taking a
new engine apart!
Richard
G-CEIW
On 28 Mar 2015, at 21:55, William Daniell
wrote:
Im am fitting the ring mount to engine. There is a lot of stuff in
the way...for example coolant hoses to the cylinder heads and some of
the wiring.
I dont want to remove any more than I have to. What needs to be
removed in order to fit the ring mount? For example does one need to
remove the starter motor?
Thanks in advance
Will
class="">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
class="">http://forums.matronics.com
class="">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Access to Mono Trailer |
| From: | "Clive Sutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com> |
I'm in the process of designing a mudguard for the mono - which is nearly complete,
but the last thing i want to check is that it does not foul the mono trailer
when loaded.
Would anyone in the Midlands area of the UK with a mono trailer be able to let
me check this?. I'd bring the prototype mudguard prototype fitted to the arm/wheel
assembly with me.
I live in Kenilworth - not far from Coventry, ready to travel of course.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440033#440033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Wigney <johnwigney(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rite of Spring |
Hi Ira,
I am looking forward to the annual spring pilgrimage to Lakeland and I
plan be with my trusty N262WF in home built camping as usual. I believe
that Wednesday or Thursday evenings would be better for me.
Cheers, John
> Subject: Europa-List: Rte of Spring!
> From: "rampil"<ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> The Earth is once again nearing that fabled position in its orbit around the
sun
> informing us that Sun N Fun is nearly here.
>
> Time to start planning the Annual Europa Engineering Meeting!
>
> As it happens, I am in Seffner this week after a lovely flight in the Europa
> from Georgia to Plant City. I will scout the favored venues to make sure
> they are prepared for our boisterous crowd.
>
> Perhaps we can start planning a meeting time. Personally, I would like
> to see an evening between Wednesday and Friday. Other thoughts?
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "JohnFrance" <77alembert(at)gmail.com> |
[quote="graeme bird"]I am thinking of getting a batch of aluminum fuel filler pipes
made for the classic to replace the rubber trunk.
Hello to all, I would like to replace the rubber fuel hose on my Classic. Can anyone
give me information about the 13070 mod regarding possible suppliers and
if anyone is interested in changing their's to get a batch price please let me
know?
I am based in Grenoble, France
Regards
John
--------
Europa mono Nr 192
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440063#440063
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rte of Spring! |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Ira,
Like John Wigney, we expect to be at SNF in Home Built Camping. Pretty much any
day is fine with us.
Looking forward to a week in the sun:)
Jim & Heather
N241BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440069#440069
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com> |
Nev or whoever eventual does this,
I have a bunch of excess quantity 6061 T4 & T6 - Aircraft quality tubing in 50
x 1,0mm that may be of interest.
I made mine out of 50 x 1,0 stainless steel (before I had the aluminium). It is
still quite a bit lighter than the rubber article, and stopped the smell!!
--------
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
At EDLM - Germany
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440070#440070
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rte of Spring! |
Ira,
Good to hear from you and to say that the British are Coming!!! Well a
couple of us are heading to Florida for the show and we intend to have
'engineering meetings' as usual. Any arrangements you make are good with us
and hope to see Bud on Monday before the show to help with set up.
We would like to have a Q&A session to understand the US market and Club
scene and will also be bringing over some copies of Don Dykins books on the
Europa wing for sale.
Any thoughts before the show from the general ownership would be welcomed.
As usual meet and greet at the stand 11.00 each day in addition to any other
events.
See you at Lakeland.
Steve Pitt
----- Original Message -----
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 2:52 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Rte of Spring!
>
> Ira,
>
> Like John Wigney, we expect to be at SNF in Home Built Camping. Pretty
> much any day is fine with us.
>
> Looking forward to a week in the sun:)
>
> Jim & Heather
> N241BW
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440069#440069
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete Lawless <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
Hi All
I am certainly interested. My filler pipe is 14 years old and whilst OK
at the moment will need changing sometime soon.
Pete
G-RMAC #109
On 31/03/15 13:55, JohnFrance wrote:
>
> [quote="graeme bird"]I am thinking of getting a batch of aluminum fuel filler
pipes made for the classic to replace the rubber trunk.
>
> Hello to all, I would like to replace the rubber fuel hose on my Classic. Can
anyone give me information about the 13070 mod regarding possible suppliers and
if anyone is interested in changing their's to get a batch price please let
me know?
> I am based in Grenoble, France
>
> Regards
>
> John
>
> --------
> Europa mono Nr 192
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440063#440063
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVID JOYCE <stranfaer(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
me too interested-=0ASent to you-by David Joyce=0Awww.eastmidsspas.com
- =0A-=0APLEASE NOTE WE HAVE MOVED AND ARE NOW AT=0AThe Zycomm Building
51 Nottingham Road Ripley Derbys DE5 3AS=0A160 Meters from Sainsbury's Isl
and=0A-=0ASame Phone 0800 4102122 and Direct Mobile 07973 675755=0A-=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Pete Lawless <pete@lawless
.info>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, 31 March 2015, 16:
52=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being
ss.info>=0A=0AHi All=0A=0AI am certainly interested.- My filler pipe is 1
4 years old and whilst OK =0Aat the moment will need changing sometime soon
.=0A=0APete=0A=0AG-RMAC #109=0A=0AOn 31/03/15 13:55, JohnFrance wrote:=0A>
=0A> [quote="graeme bird"]I am thinking of getting a batch of aluminum fu
el filler pipes made for the classic to replace the rubber trunk.=0A>=0A> H
ello to all, I would like to replace the rubber fuel hose on my Classic. Ca
n anyone give me information about the 13070 mod regarding possible supplie
rs and if anyone is interested in changing their's to get a batch price ple
ase let me know?=0A> I am based in Grenoble, France=0A>=0A> Regards=0A>=0A>
John=0A>=0A> --------=0A> Europa mono Nr 192=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Read this
topic online here:=0A>=0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4
=============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | houlihan <houlihan(at)blueyonder.co.uk> |
Hi.
I am also interested as my filler hose is getting old and will need
replacing soon ( like several years ago ) so count me in.
I know that Nev Eyres was involved in a plan to produce replacement metal
fillers some years ago but things got more involved than he expected. I
spoke to him a couple of months ago and he said he was looking into things
and would be talking to a fabrication outfit, but I have found that Nev is
very difficult to contact. Does anyone have further information
Tim
G-BZTH
On 31 March 2015 at 13:55, JohnFrance <77alembert(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> [quote="graeme bird"]I am thinking of getting a batch of aluminum fuel
> filler pipes made for the classic to replace the rubber trunk.
>
> Hello to all, I would like to replace the rubber fuel hose on my Classic.
> Can anyone give me information about the 13070 mod regarding possible
> suppliers and if anyone is interested in changing their's to get a batch
> price please let me know?
> I am based in Grenoble, France
>
> Regards
>
> John
>
> --------
> Europa mono Nr 192
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440063#440063
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Challis <cakeykev(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
And me
Kevin Challis
cakeykev(at)gmail.com
> On 31 Mar 2015, at 17:12, DAVID JOYCE wrote:
>
> me too interested
>
> Sent to you by David Joyce
> www.eastmidsspas.com
>
> PLEASE NOTE WE HAVE MOVED AND ARE NOW AT
> The Zycomm Building 51 Nottingham Road Ripley Derbys DE5 3AS
> 160 Meters from Sainsbury's Island
>
> Same Phone 0800 4102122 and Direct Mobile 07973 675755
>
>
> From: Pete Lawless <pete(at)lawless.info>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, 31 March 2015, 16:52
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being mad
e
>
>
> Hi All
>
> I am certainly interested. My filler pipe is 14 years old and whilst OK
> at the moment will need changing sometime soon.
>
> Pete
>
> G-RMAC #109
>
> On 31/03/15 13:55, JohnFrance wrote:
> >
> > [quote="graeme bird"]I am thinking of getting a batch of aluminum fuel
filler pipes made for the classic to replace the rubber trunk.
> >
> > Hello to all, I would like to replace the rubber fuel hose on my Classic
. Can anyone give me information about the 13070 mod regarding possible supp
liers and if anyone is interested in changing their's to get a batch price p
lease let me know?
> > I am based in Grenoble, France
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > John
> >
> > --------
> > Europa mono Nr 192
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440063#440063
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >< href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List" target="_blan
k">p; -Matt Dralle, Libution" ======
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Here are pictures of my fuel filler pipe. Who's a lucky boy, then? And not a little
smug!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440104#440104
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2g_eiky_fuel_filler_413.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Fuel filler picture 2
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440105#440105
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2g_eiky_fuel_filler_384.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Fuel filler picture 2
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440106#440106
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2g_eiky_fuel_filler_190.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Fuel filler picture 2
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440107#440107
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2g_eiky_fuel_filler_764.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Fuel filler picture 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440108#440108
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2g_eiky_fuel_filler_681.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Fuel filler picture 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440109#440109
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1g_eiky_fuel_filler_202.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Fuel filler picture 2
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440110#440110
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2g_eiky_fuel_filler_178.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Another
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440116#440116
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_filler_2_191.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Picture two
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440117#440117
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another fuel filler picture |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Second picture
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440118#440118
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_filler_2_700.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Please help with picture problem |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Why can't I submit an additional different picture of my Classic fuel filler pipe?
I've tried all sorts of ploys, but always only the picture which I've already
posted appears again. Moving pictures to different folders, renaming pictures,
moving them between "Documents" and "Pictures", etcetera. Nothing stops the
same picture from being re-attached every time.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440119#440119
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete Lawless <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
Hi Johnathan
Got no pictures at all not even number 1. Did get a total of 11
messages thought! All the picture links gave 404 not found errors.
Would like to see what you have though, so please keep trying.
Pete
On 31/03/15 22:41, jonathanmilbank wrote:
>
> Here are pictures of my fuel filler pipe. Who's a lucky boy, then? And not a
little smug!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440104#440104
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/2g_eiky_fuel_filler_413.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Another picture attempt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440130#440130
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/filler_3_112.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
This should be the third picture. It seems that by waiting overnight, the problem
with adding further pictures has gone away. You won't be surprised to know
that the fuel smell in the cockpit is a thing of the past.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440131#440131
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_4_155.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete Lawless <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
Hi jonothan
Those two worked OK. Very smart plumbing!
Is that stainless?
Pete
On 01/04/15 09:55, jonathanmilbank wrote:
>
> This should be the third picture. It seems that by waiting overnight, the problem
with adding further pictures has gone away. You won't be surprised to know
that the fuel smell in the cockpit is a thing of the past.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440131#440131
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_4_155.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Bliss <william(at)wbliss.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Aluminium fuel filler pipe and bright lights |
Hi all
I used Neville Eyre's aluminium pipe. After cutting ends to appropriate
length I was left with small composite bends to join fuel tank and
filler neck. I joined those sections using sections of rubber fuel
filler pipe sourced from Car Builder Solutions. The joins were all
sealed with PR1422 sealant sourced from LAS, clamps applied before it
had set. It was a very messy job! No fuel smells after 2 years. I cannot
find PR1422 in the 31st Ed LAS catalogue.
I can send photo's and more info to anyone interested, and have copied
this e-mail to Neville. His phone has no signal at work!
Thanks for all those who sent info and ideas about conspicuity lights.
William Bliss G-WUFF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
It's aluminium and is one of the very small batch of prototypes supplied by Neville.
I was approved by the LAA as a repeat mod. If anyone wants clearer pictures,
please email me at jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk. I got very tired last night wrestling
with trying to attach pictures in Matronics and I wish that they didn't
always get so hugely expanded. My remedy for viewing is to temporarily zoom the
screen down to 50%.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440135#440135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Skyforce Tracker IIIC GPS./Honeywell Card Updates. |
Hi! All users of Skyforce Tracker IIIC GPS units. .......... =93a nod is
as
good as a wink=94!
I have reason to believe that card updates will very soon ( likely one
month!) be increased from the present day price of =A3108 inclusive of
VAT
and postage .
The support of this unit is likely to be moved to another contactor in
the
Heathrow area.
Regards To all.
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "europapa" <experimental(at)online.de> |
Hello, my rubber hose is rather old now too.
So please let me join.
experimental at online.de
Regards Juergen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440138#440138
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Skyforce Tracker IIIC GPS./Honeywell Card Updates. Follow |
on Message.....
Hi! All,
Sorry for the drip feed info . however I now have discovered that the
best
/value for money time to get maximum chart update info. into your
Skyforce
card update will be after 23rd April .( but before the 30th as per
previous
posting.!)
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
PS this all presumes there is any other flyers who actually use Skyforce
GPS
!
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Harrison
Sent: 01 April 2015 12:57
Subject: Europa-List: Skyforce Tracker IIIC GPS./Honeywell Card Updates.
Hi! All users of Skyforce Tracker IIIC GPS units. .......... =93a nod is
as
good as a wink=94!
I have reason to believe that card updates will very soon ( likely one
month!) be increased from the present day price of =A3108 inclusive of
VAT
and postage .
The support of this unit is likely to be moved to another contactor in
the
Heathrow area.
Regards To all.
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "Clive Sutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com> |
Just for information, I've been in conversation with Karen at the factory and apparently
the 'no objection' letter is all that is required from the LAA for Europa
to be able to sell these (at last). I understand it's imminent . . .
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440180#440180
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "Clive Sutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com> |
Oops, gave you a bum steer there - the factory are working on a replacement fuel
filler solution for the extended baggage bay, replacing the rubber pipe with
large bore metal pipework and fluoro-lined silicone rubber end connections.
This is because the supplier of the poly filler moulding has 'lost' the mould
- meaning there is currently no XS/extended baggage bay filler solution. But
as i said, I believe its imminent . . . Dave Goddard at the factory is working
on it.
BTW i still have the original rubber rubber filler hose (made in January 2001)
which i won't use for the above reasons. Although its 15 years old it is unused
and there are no signs of perish or cracking. I also have the original/untouched
engine cowling halves . . .
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440181#440181
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rte of Spring! |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Greetings All!
With a few replies coming in and the desire to align the Engineering meeting
with a Forum that Bud is organizing, I'd like to propose Thursday.
More details to follow shortly!
Cheers,
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440183#440183
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/europavenue_753.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rob zeelenberg" <robzeel(at)ision.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
Hi John I would be interested !!
europa #157 phpop
regards
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
From: JohnFrance
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 2:55 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made
[quote="graeme bird"]I am thinking of getting a batch of aluminum fuel
filler pipes made for the classic to replace the rubber trunk.
Hello to all, I would like to replace the rubber fuel hose on my Classic.
Can anyone give me information about the 13070 mod regarding possible
suppliers and if anyone is interested in changing their's to get a batch
price please let me know?
I am based in Grenoble, France
Regards
John
--------
Europa mono Nr 192
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440063#440063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank moved!! |
Mike,
It is possible that the tank will shrink a bit if the fuel is offloaded,
possibly causing the outlet rubber hose to move up slightly, and contact the
torque tube. This happened to me, anyway.
If tank had significant fuel in it, then it might be something else causing
the problem..
Regards,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Gamble
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 8:00 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel Tank moved!!
After 4 uneventful flying seasons I have been carrying out the annual
inspection prior to the 5th.
The aircraft had been garaged for 3 months with wings and tailplanes removed
and the fuselage supported on dummy spars with wheeled supports.
On checking the controls a rubbing sound was evident on moving the stick
fore & aft and this was traced to contact of the Pitch torque tube CS10 with
the rubber hose
securing the port side Tank outlet fitting. Stb side clearance is just
adequate.
This is very strange as I don't recall any possibility of this happening
during construction so a reasonable clearance must have existed then.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Can the tank have moved UP?
What is the fix?
Comments and advice please.
Mike Gamble
XS Mono #440
G-CFMP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank moved!! |
Thanks for your input Greg.
I had drained the tank which very possibly moved it up a bit but I would not
like to think of this happening in flight.
Did you measure the clearance from your torque tube with and without fuel?
How on earth can I increase this clearance?
The manual just gives a suggested 2cm distance tank to floor.
Maybe this will generate some more response from the forum.
Mike
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Fuchs
Sent: 02 April 2015 16:19
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Fuel Tank moved!!
Mike,
It is possible that the tank will shrink a bit if the fuel is offloaded,
possibly causing the outlet rubber hose to move up slightly, and contact the
torque tube. This happened to me, anyway.
If tank had significant fuel in it, then it might be something else causing
the problem..
Regards,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Gamble
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 8:00 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel Tank moved!!
After 4 uneventful flying seasons I have been carrying out the annual
inspection prior to the 5th.
The aircraft had been garaged for 3 months with wings and tailplanes removed
and the fuselage supported on dummy spars with wheeled supports.
On checking the controls a rubbing sound was evident on moving the stick
fore & aft and this was traced to contact of the Pitch torque tube CS10 with
the rubber hose
securing the port side Tank outlet fitting. Stb side clearance is just
adequate.
This is very strange as I don't recall any possibility of this happening
during construction so a reasonable clearance must have existed then.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Can the tank have moved UP?
What is the fix?
Comments and advice please.
Mike Gamble
XS Mono #440
G-CFMP
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Binx nuts torque |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone know what the torque on the binx nuts which are used for the
engine subframe to ring mount is supposed to be?
Many thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank moved!! |
Mike,
IMHO, It would be good to understand how the clearance issue happened,
before committing a solution..or even whether you need one. Determining
whether it was tank shrinkage rather than slippage might be the first
agenda.
When I tested my tank for holes, it was filled to at least 3/4 of a tank
full of fuel for about 6 months.
The tank changed shape over time, as noticed by the back side bulging out.
Thus, the fuel was left in it until about a day before installation,
thinking that it was best to anchor it to the aircraft in its normal
operating state which could eliminate some strain from the fiberglass plies
tugging at it. I did have to heat up and straighten out the back side of the
tank though, or it would not fit properly into its position. A heat gun,
some flat pieces of ply, and some weights were employed for that job.
The fiber-glassing went well, and the clearances were fine upon assembly.
Its been many years, so I am struggling to remember the time frame, but
sometime in the months that followed with the tank dry of fuel, the tank
reduced in size (shrank). I could tell, because in some areas it no longer
touched the plies used to strap it in. I did not quantify with
measurements..just used visual observation. Clearance was as much as 1/4" or
so in some areas. Then I noticed the top side of the rubber hose at the tank
outlet(s) brushing up against the torque tube. Not aggressively, just
lightly. It doesn't concern me much. As soon as I put fuel in, it should
resume the shape it had when I strapped it in. I did put in a plastic
rubbing strip to protect the paint finish on the torque tube.
I couldn't see any other way the outlet could be rubbing on the torque tube,
other than it must be that it expanded when fueled and shrunk once again
when the fuel was drained out (completely dry). Some day, the tank will be
re-fueled, and I can see what happens for sure with this clearance. Some
day, when the plane is close to being ready to fly, that is..
This may not describe your issue, but then again it might. Three months in
your garage should be long enough for it to shrink. How completely did you
empty your tank? I figure (guessing) the tank would take awhile to shrink,
so it certainly would not happen in flight. Weeks to months probably. It
would likely need to be mostly drained of fuel, to eliminate fuel vapor,
which might arrest the tank from shrinking. I am completely guessing here of
course, since I have not done these tests..
Tank treatment? ..My tank was shipped in late 2002. It 'should' have been
treated with fluoride by then (crossing fingers).
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Gamble
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Fuel Tank moved!!
Thanks for your input Greg.
I had drained the tank which very possibly moved it up a bit but I would not
like to think of this happening in flight.
Did you measure the clearance from your torque tube with and without fuel?
How on earth can I increase this clearance?
The manual just gives a suggested 2cm distance tank to floor.
Maybe this will generate some more response from the forum.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap root extension |
| From: | "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl> |
According to the manual, one of the last steps in fitting the wings and flaps is
to build a flap root extension. I am nowhere near this, wings are still open
and not yet fitted to the fuselage. Nevertheless I would like to get flaps and
ailerons filled and painted. Partly because it keeps my painter friend busy
and beholden to me, partly to spread cost, but also because I feel it may be a
good idea to have the flaps to net size when closing the wing.
I noticed that the NG flaps have the root extensions as a an integral feature ex
factory. That suggests to me that having them on does not hinder further assembly
work, but I want to check this before I do anything stupid or expensive.
Any thoughts?
--------
Jeroen
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440229#440229
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hickling <keithhickling(at)clear.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Binx nuts torque |
Will,
Europa told me that you can=99t give a torque figure for them
because it depends how hard they grip =93 takes quite a bit of
torque just to turn them even before they are tight. Just tighten them
up firmly.
Nev (via Bob Borger) said :
"No need for them to be too tight, I just nip them up, then a firm tug
on a regular spanner [ wrench ], at a guess about 125 lb in, plenty
tight enough to keep them from fretting, not enough to stretch the
threads."
Regards,
Keith.
Keith Hickling.
From: William Daniell
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2015 6:16 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Binx nuts torque
Does anyone know what the torque on the binx nuts which are used for the
engine subframe to ring mount is supposed to be?
Many thanks
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Binx nuts torque |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Keith
thanks very much
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Fri, Apr 3, 2015 at 4:39 AM, Keith Hickling
wrote:
> Will,
> Europa told me that you can=99t give a torque figure for them becau
se it
> depends how hard they grip =93 takes quite a bit of torque just to
turn them
> even before they are tight. Just tighten them up firmly.
>
> Nev (via Bob Borger) said :
>
> "No need for them to be too tight, I just nip them up, then a firm tug on
> a regular spanner [ wrench ], at a guess about 125 lb in, plenty tight
> enough to keep them from fretting, not enough to stretch the threads."
>
> Regards,
> Keith.
> Keith Hickling.
> *From:* William Daniell
> *Sent:* Friday, April 03, 2015 6:16 AM
> *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Europa-List: Binx nuts torque
>
> Does anyone know what the torque on the binx nuts which are used for the
> engine subframe to ring mount is supposed to be?
>
> Many thanks
> Will
>
>
> *
>
===========
tronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS |
Does anyone by any chance know anything about correcting the altimeter
read out on a Blue Mountain EFIS?
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | 912S Starter on a 914 |
Hi all,
The starter on my 914 occasionally throws a hissy fit when it's hot and I am
looking into replacing it with 912S starter. Are there any considerations I
need to take into account with the ring mount or water pump? My aircraft is
an XS
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | 912S Starter on a 914 |
Hi! Paul, Suggest you get the heavy duty starter , but you may need to lift
the engine forwards
To get it in. It is without doubt well on top of the job.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Sent: 03 April 2015 19:37
Subject: Europa-List: 912S Starter on a 914
Hi all,
The starter on my 914 occasionally throws a hissy fit when it's hot and I am
looking into replacing it with 912S starter. Are there any considerations I
need to take into account with the ring mount or water pump? My aircraft is
an XS
Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
Paul, in 13 years my 914 starter has never given me any cause to doubt
it, and I would wonder whether there is anything to be gained by
changing to a different system. Certainly on occasions with engine &
weather hot it might not start on the usual first or second go, but this
is not because it doesn't turn the engine over nicely but presumably
because all the petrol in the carbs has vapourised or some such. If you
have a conventional battery rather than an Odyssey or equivalent (which
have much higher cranking power) I would be tempted to change that
first.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
On 2015-04-03 19:37, Paul McAllister wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> The starter on my 914 occasionally throws a hissy fit when it's hot and I am
looking into replacing it with 912S starter. Are there any considerations I need
to take into account with the ring mount or water pump? My aircraft is an XS
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
Links:
------
[1] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[2] http://forums.matronics.com
[3] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank moved!! |
Greg,
Thanks for the info. What you say makes sense and I appreciate you taking
the time to help me out.
I put 60 ltrs in the tank today and shall leave things alone for a while to
see if we get any improvement.
I will report results .
Mike
(my tank was supplied in Jul. 99)
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Fuchs
Sent: 03 April 2015 09:11
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Fuel Tank moved!!
Mike,
IMHO, It would be good to understand how the clearance issue happened,
before committing a solution..or even whether you need one. Determining
whether it was tank shrinkage rather than slippage might be the first
agenda.
When I tested my tank for holes, it was filled to at least 3/4 of a tank
full of fuel for about 6 months.
The tank changed shape over time, as noticed by the back side bulging out.
Thus, the fuel was left in it until about a day before installation,
thinking that it was best to anchor it to the aircraft in its normal
operating state which could eliminate some strain from the fiberglass plies
tugging at it. I did have to heat up and straighten out the back side of the
tank though, or it would not fit properly into its position. A heat gun,
some flat pieces of ply, and some weights were employed for that job.
The fiber-glassing went well, and the clearances were fine upon assembly.
Its been many years, so I am struggling to remember the time frame, but
sometime in the months that followed with the tank dry of fuel, the tank
reduced in size (shrank). I could tell, because in some areas it no longer
touched the plies used to strap it in. I did not quantify with
measurements..just used visual observation. Clearance was as much as 1/4" or
so in some areas. Then I noticed the top side of the rubber hose at the tank
outlet(s) brushing up against the torque tube. Not aggressively, just
lightly. It doesn't concern me much. As soon as I put fuel in, it should
resume the shape it had when I strapped it in. I did put in a plastic
rubbing strip to protect the paint finish on the torque tube.
I couldn't see any other way the outlet could be rubbing on the torque tube,
other than it must be that it expanded when fueled and shrunk once again
when the fuel was drained out (completely dry). Some day, the tank will be
re-fueled, and I can see what happens for sure with this clearance. Some
day, when the plane is close to being ready to fly, that is..
This may not describe your issue, but then again it might. Three months in
your garage should be long enough for it to shrink. How completely did you
empty your tank? I figure (guessing) the tank would take awhile to shrink,
so it certainly would not happen in flight. Weeks to months probably. It
would likely need to be mostly drained of fuel, to eliminate fuel vapor,
which might arrest the tank from shrinking. I am completely guessing here of
course, since I have not done these tests..
Tank treatment? ..My tank was shipped in late 2002. It 'should' have been
treated with fluoride by then (crossing fingers).
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Gamble
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Fuel Tank moved!!
Thanks for your input Greg.
I had drained the tank which very possibly moved it up a bit but I would not
like to think of this happening in flight.
Did you measure the clearance from your torque tube with and without fuel?
How on earth can I increase this clearance?
The manual just gives a suggested 2cm distance tank to floor.
Maybe this will generate some more response from the forum.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
| From: | Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com> |
Hello David,
The on occasions the starter won't engage when the engine is hot and I have
done several starts. It mostly occurs when I am doing a prop balance. If I
tap (bang) on it then it generally springs into life. I have an Odyssey
battery.
My guess is if I pulled it apart I'd probably find stuck brushes or
something.
I am hoping that the advantage of going to the heavy duty starter is that
it will end the occasional kick back.
Regards, Paul
.
On Friday, April 3, 2015, wrote:
> Paul, in 13 years my 914 starter has never given me any cause to doubt
> it, and I would wonder whether there is anything to be gained by changing
> to a different system. Certainly on occasions with engine & weather hot it
> might not start on the usual first or second go, but this is not because it
> doesn't turn the engine over nicely but presumably because all the petrol
> in the carbs has vapourised or some such. If you have a conventional
> battery rather than an Odyssey or equivalent (which have much higher
> cranking power) I would be tempted to change that first.
>
> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
| From: | "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr> |
Hi Paul,
Measurements I made years ago showed that the heavy duty starter motor cranks the
engine 30 to 40 percent faster everything else being equal (same engine, same
battery, same temperature), so obviously it does reduce the chances of kicking
back.
I had to replace my dead HD starter motor years ago on my XS and I confirm you
can do it quite easily. There is no interference with the ring mount, water pump
or foot well.
Regards
Remi
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440266#440266
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
David,
Here is a paragraph from an old EFIS 1 install manual. As I recall, the altimeter
was not very stable. Best way to calibrate is to replace the EFIS with any
current EFIS offering!
Jim & Heather
N241BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440267#440267
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/altimeter_479.docx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank moved!! |
According to the forum, the cutoff date for the old non-fluorinated tank
seems to have been sometime around or before 2000, but it is hard to tell
for sure.
Greg
_____
Greg,
Thanks for the info. What you say makes sense and I appreciate you taking
the time to help me out.
I put 60 ltrs in the tank today and shall leave things alone for a while to
see if we get any improvement.
I will report results .
Mike
(my tank was supplied in Jul. 99)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
David,
Please tell us which BMA device you are using, and specifically what the problem
is. Are you asking how to set the barometric pressure, or are you implying
that once set, the altitude display is wrong?
I have a Gen4 now, and before that a Gen2 "gold box"
Never had an issue with the Altimeter. Never heard that anyone
had "stability" problems.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440269#440269
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
Ira, The EFIS has always worked superbly (& I am loath to change it,)
but the altimeter has always been about 100ft out and as my steam age
back up altimeter has just given up the ghost I would like to adjust the
Blue Mountain one. The manual says ring the factory. Clearly I can open
the altimeter tab and apply common sense, but that is not always the
complete solution and I do not want to make it worse if you or anyone
knows what the factory would have said!
Regards, David
On 2015-04-04 14:14, rampil wrote:
>
> David,
> Please tell us which BMA device you are using, and specifically what the problem
is. Are you asking how to set the barometric pressure, or are you implying
that once set, the altitude display is wrong?
>
> I have a Gen4 now, and before that a Gen2 "gold box"
> Never had an issue with the Altimeter. Never heard that anyone
> had "stability" problems.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440269#440269 [1]
>
Links:
------
[1] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440269#440269
[2] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[3] http://forums.matronics.com
[4] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
Jim, Mine is a Gen 4 so I think the EFIS 1 instructions do not apply
sadly
Regards, David
On 2015-04-04 12:23, h&jeuropa wrote:
>
> David,
>
> Here is a paragraph from an old EFIS 1 install manual. As I recall, the altimeter
was not very stable. Best way to calibrate is to replace the EFIS with any
current EFIS offering!
>
> Jim & Heather
> N241BW
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440267#440267 [1]
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/altimeter_479.docx [2]
>
Links:
------
[1] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440267#440267
[2] http://forums.matronics.com//files/altimeter_479.docx
[3] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[4] http://forums.matronics.com
[5] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Hi David,
I believe this is the document you are searching for!
I am in contact with Greg from time to time, but his new ventures
are keeping him quite busy and it is very difficult for him to support
ten year products.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440278#440278
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/altcalg4_911.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ring mount to subframe question |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
I am mounting the rotax ring mount to the engine mounting frame using the
M10x110 hex head bolts.
The issue is that the M10 bolts have quite a lot of slop in the rotax ring
mount, my guess is that the rotax ring mount holes are about 1/2 to 1 mm
larger than the bolts.
Is this normal?
The bolts fit perfectly in the Europa engine mounting frame.
thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS |
Ira, Many thanks for that. Regards, David
On 2015-04-04 20:01, rampil wrote:
>
> Hi David,
>
> I believe this is the document you are searching for!
>
> I am in contact with Greg from time to time, but his new ventures
> are keeping him quite busy and it is very difficult for him to support
> ten year products.
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440278#440278 [1]
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/altcalg4_911.pdf [2]
>
Links:
------
[1] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440278#440278
[2] http://forums.matronics.com//files/altcalg4_911.pdf
[3] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[4] http://forums.matronics.com
[5] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to subframe question |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Yup....the rotax ring mount has an 11mm hole and the engine mounting frame
is 10mm.
Can anyone help?
Will
On Apr 4, 2015 4:37 PM, "William Daniell"
wrote:
> I am mounting the rotax ring mount to the engine mounting frame using the
> M10x110 hex head bolts.
>
> The issue is that the M10 bolts have quite a lot of slop in the rotax ring
> mount, my guess is that the rotax ring mount holes are about 1/2 to 1 mm
> larger than the bolts.
>
> Is this normal?
>
> The bolts fit perfectly in the Europa engine mounting frame.
>
> thanks
>
> Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to subframe question |
Gidday Will,
Have you inserted the short steel reinforcements in the fuselage engine fram
e, because if you have the wall thickness has now increased dramatically, an
d the attachment forces now are also shared by the bolts holding them in sit
u, as I vaguely recall. I'd be surprised if you couldn't open them out.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
> On 5 Apr 2015, at 4:09 am, William Daniell w
rote:
>
> Yup....the rotax ring mount has an 11mm hole and the engine mounting frame
is 10mm.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Will
>
>> On Apr 4, 2015 4:37 PM, "William Daniell" w
rote:
>> I am mounting the rotax ring mount to the engine mounting frame using the
M10x110 hex head bolts.
>>
>> The issue is that the M10 bolts have quite a lot of slop in the rotax rin
g mount, my guess is that the rotax ring mount holes are about 1/2 to 1 mm l
arger than the bolts.
>>
>> Is this normal?
>>
>> The bolts fit perfectly in the Europa engine mounting frame.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Will
>>
>>
>> William Daniell
>> LONGPORT
>> +57 310 295 0744
>>
>>
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to subframe question |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Tony
Thanks
Sadly thats not the problem...its the rotax supplied ring mount (suspension
frame in rotax parlance) which has 11mm holes and should have 10mm holes...
I thinking I got the wrong part number...maybe there are two different
frames...
Will
On Apr 4, 2015 10:12 PM, "Tony Renshaw" wrote:
> Gidday Will,
> Have you inserted the short steel reinforcements in the fuselage engine
> frame, because if you have the wall thickness has now increased
> dramatically, and the attachment forces now are also shared by the bolts
> holding them in situ, as I vaguely recall. I'd be surprised if you couldn't
> open them out.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 5 Apr 2015, at 4:09 am, William Daniell
> wrote:
>
> Yup....the rotax ring mount has an 11mm hole and the engine mounting frame
> is 10mm.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Will
> On Apr 4, 2015 4:37 PM, "William Daniell"
> wrote:
>
>> I am mounting the rotax ring mount to the engine mounting frame using the
>> M10x110 hex head bolts.
>>
>> The issue is that the M10 bolts have quite a lot of slop in the rotax
>> ring mount, my guess is that the rotax ring mount holes are about 1/2 to 1
>> mm larger than the bolts.
>>
>> Is this normal?
>>
>> The bolts fit perfectly in the Europa engine mounting frame.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Will
>>
>>
>> William Daniell
>> LONGPORT
>> +57 310 295 0744
>>
>> *
>>
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
> D============================================
> a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> D============================================
> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> D============================================
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D============================================
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com> |
Hello Graham,
I am very interested in replacing the old rubber filler pipe in my Classic, so
please could you add me to the list.
Regards
--------
Gordon Grant
G-BWFH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440294#440294
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to subframe question |
Hi Will,
That is correct, the holes in the Rotax ring mount are 11mm, 10mm in the Europa
mount, and 10mm bolts......... not clever ? I put a thin 10mm steel washer between
the Europa mount and the Rotax ring mount, prevents the ring mount from
getting chafed. Put grease or thick oil on the bolt shank, they are not plated
?
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2015 11:41 am
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ring mount to subframe question
Tony
Thanks
Sadly thats not the problem...its the rotax supplied ring mount (suspension frame
in rotax parlance) which has 11mm holes and should have 10mm holes...
I thinking I got the wrong part number...maybe there are two different frames...
Will
On Apr 4, 2015 10:12 PM, "Tony Renshaw" < tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Gidday Will,
Have you inserted the short steel reinforcements in the fuselage engine frame,
because if you have the wall thickness has now increased dramatically, and the
attachment forces now are also shared by the bolts holding them in situ, as I
vaguely recall. I'd be surprised if you couldn't open them out.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 5 Apr 2015, at 4:09 am, William Daniell < wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Yup....the rotax ring mount has an 11mm hole and the engine mounting frame is 10mm.
Can anyone help?
Will
On Apr 4, 2015 4:37 PM, "William Daniell" < wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
wrote:
I am mounting the rotax ring mount to the engine mounting frame using the M10x110
hex head bolts.
The issue is that the M10 bolts have quite a lot of slop in the rotax ring mount,
my guess is that the rotax ring mount holes are about 1/2 to 1 mm larger than
the bolts.
Is this normal?
The bolts fit perfectly in the Europa engine mounting frame.
thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D============================================= a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List D============================================= //forums.matronics.com D============================================= ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution D=============================================
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
I had a number made by different companies, with varying success, the last
lot were good, but they will only do in batches of 100..... so I have bough
t a tube bender, and have a tube roller on it's way, if you want a job done
well, do it yourself ? Watch this space.
Biggest hassle will be LaaLaaLand... questions from them included..........
....
1] what make clips were going to be supplied ['' as all clips are not equal
'' ]... Ty wraps would suffice ?
2] The double convoluted fuel proof silicon connector [ made for the job] w
ould have to be '' investigated '', [ but a piece of the old, perished fuel
filler hose made 15+ years ago be the cheapest bidder would be fine ].....
.........
3]The suggested [ by me ] fitting of a rubber grommit where the alloy pipe
passes through the bulkhead to prevent fretting would not be needed as '' t
he customer would smell the fuel leak if it were to wear through '' YES,
REALLY !
And then there are the punters, one such [ not the builder] ranted at me th
at the one I had sent him wouldn't fit [ as in '' nowhere f***ing near '' ]
and moaned about having to pay =C2=A315 postage to return it to me..... ch
ecked out against my pattern, and sent off to a grateful recipient who fitt
ed it in 10 minutes, and reported ''a perfect fit '' ?
That was why I dropped it at that time, but on with the case again.
Cheers,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: GBWFH2010 <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2015 3:21 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made
Hello
Graham,
I am very interested in replacing the old rubber filler pipe in my
Classic, so please could you add me to the list.
Regards
--------
Gordon
Grant
G-BWFH
Read this topic online
here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440294#440294
- The Europa-List Email Forum -
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much more:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearing |
Alan,
The trigear install is brutally strong. Done by any competent builder it is
as strong as an F-4 tailhook.
Bud
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 7:20 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Nose Wheel Bearing
Hi Bud.
Hope the weather is good to you this year.
Many thanks for your detailed post on my nose wheel, it is nice to receive
and thanks for your time it is much appreciated . My plane was Number 96 a
Mono, finished in 2000 so guess it the early axial , After about 30 hours
and a couple of prop strikes, it had the Mono Tri Conversion carried out by
Europa Aircraft Com, My guess is a Mono Tri Conversion Leeds to a stronger
aeroplane than the standard Tri gear, just my guess i am not a builder ,
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439810#439810
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foreign registered Europa |
William,
It isn=99t that bad.
The best thing to do is go to www.faa.gov and hit the tab for license
and certificates then aircraft registration. Not a big deal. Quite a
bit of reading to get educated so some goombah doesn=99t lead you
down a bad path. Contact your US FAA Flight Standards District Office
(FSDO) for what they want specifically from you. Normally a letter from
the export country, your bill of sale (sale history) and an application
$5 fee, then a DAR will do an inspection and you get a US airworthiness
inspection provided it is airworthy. Kits are essentially the same,
except it is just the bill of sale and if the kit was registered, the
appropriate paperwork.
Look at the attached pamphlet for a start.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
From: William Daniell
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 4:32 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Foreign registered Europa
It is possible that I may be transferred to the US. Does anyone know
how to register a foreign built Europa in the US?
thanks Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
Guys,
For replacement parts for your Rotax, you may find my website quite useful.
Download the .pdf file from the techniques section with all the parts
suppliers for the Europa.
Perhaps someone in the UK could do the same for the UK owners and other
countries. Be my guess and copy it.
We just did a Classic using Stefan Ingemarsson's hoses and clamps.
Inexpensive and well done in comparison to Rotax.
See www.customflightcreations.com
I've also attached my drawing with cut dimensions for our 2 inch fuel filler
tube for the Classic. We also just make a 55 degree pipe for the XS. It
isn't rocket science just finding somebody to do a quality weld job. We
have S&S welding which has done fuel tanks, trailers, fuel tubes, brake
mounts, you name it and the welds are impeccable...
Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: GBWFH2010
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2015 10:20 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made
Hello Graham,
I am very interested in replacing the old rubber filler pipe in my Classic,
so please could you add me to the list.
Regards
--------
Gordon Grant
G-BWFH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440294#440294
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
-----Original Message-----
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2015 9:12 pm
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made
I had a number made by different companies, with varying success, the la
st lot were good, but they will only do in batches of 100..... so I have bo
ught a tube bender, and have a tube roller on it's way, if you want a job d
one well, do it yourself ? Watch this space.
Biggest hassle will be LaaLaaLand... questions from them included..........
....
1] what make clips were going to be supplied ['' as all clips are not equal
'' ]... Ty wraps would suffice ?
2] The double convoluted fuel proof silicon connector [ made for the job] w
ould have to be '' investigated '', [ but a piece of the old, perished fuel
filler hose made 15+ years ago be the cheapest bidder would be fine ].....
.........
3]The suggested [ by me ] fitting of a rubber grommit where the alloy pipe
passes through the bulkhead to prevent fretting would not be needed as '' t
he customer would smell the fuel leak if it were to wear through '' YES,
REALLY !
And then there are the punters, one such [ not the builder] ranted at me th
at the one I had sent him wouldn't fit [ as in '' nowhere f***ing near '' ]
and moaned about having to pay =C2=A315 postage to return it to me..... ch
ecked out against my pattern, and sent off to a grateful recipient who fitt
ed it in 10 minutes, and reported ''a perfect fit '' ?
That was why I dropped it at that time, but on with the case again.
Cheers,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: GBWFH2010 <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com>
To: europa-list
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2015 3:21 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made
Hello
Graham,
I am very interested in replacing the old rubber filler pipe in my
Classic, so please could you add me to the list.
Regards
--------
Gordon
Grant
G-BWFH
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440294#440294
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to subframe question |
-----Original Message-----
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2015 8:47 pm
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ring mount to subframe question
Hi Will,
That is correct, the holes in the Rotax ring mount are 11mm, 10mm in the Europa
mount, and 10mm bolts......... not clever ? I put a thin 10mm steel washer between
the Europa mount and the Rotax ring mount, prevents the ring mount from
getting chafed. Put grease or thick oil on the bolt shank, they are not plated
?
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
To: europa-list
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2015 11:41 am
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Ring mount to subframe question
Tony
Thanks
Sadly thats not the problem...its the rotax supplied ring mount (suspension frame
in rotax parlance) which has 11mm holes and should have 10mm holes...
I thinking I got the wrong part number...maybe there are two different frames...
Will
On Apr 4, 2015 10:12 PM, "Tony Renshaw" < tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Gidday Will,
Have you inserted the short steel reinforcements in the fuselage engine frame,
because if you have the wall thickness has now increased dramatically, and the
attachment forces now are also shared by the bolts holding them in situ, as
I vaguely recall. I'd be surprised if you couldn't open them out.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 5 Apr 2015, at 4:09 am, William Daniell < wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
wrote:
Yup....the rotax ring mount has an 11mm hole and the engine mounting frame is 10mm.
Can anyone help?
Will
On Apr 4, 2015 4:37 PM, "William Daniell" < wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
wrote:
I am mounting the rotax ring mount to the engine mounting frame using the M10x110
hex head bolts.
The issue is that the M10 bolts have quite a lot of slop in the rotax ring mount,
my guess is that the rotax ring mount holes are about 1/2 to 1 mm larger than
the bolts.
Is this normal?
The bolts fit perfectly in the Europa engine mounting frame.
thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D============================================= a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List D============================================= //forums.matronics.com D============================================= ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution D=============================================
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Foreign registered Europa |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Bud
thanks excellent advice. I am trying hard to finish and register but might
not make it by the time they transfer me (18 months more or less) ...do you
have any experience of part built kits arriving in the US?
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sun, Apr 5, 2015 at 3:50 PM, Bud Yerly wrote:
> William,
> It isn=99t that bad.
> The best thing to do is go to www.faa.gov and hit the tab for license and
> certificates then aircraft registration. Not a big deal. Quite a bit of
> reading to get educated so some goombah doesn=99t lead you down a b
ad path.
> Contact your US FAA Flight Standards District Office (FSDO) for what they
> want specifically from you. Normally a letter from the export country,
> your bill of sale (sale history) and an application $5 fee, then a DAR wi
ll
> do an inspection and you get a US airworthiness inspection provided it is
> airworthy. Kits are essentially the same, except it is just the bill of
> sale and if the kit was registered, the appropriate paperwork.
>
> Look at the attached pamphlet for a start.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> *From:* William Daniell
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 26, 2015 4:32 PM
> *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Europa-List: Foreign registered Europa
>
> It is possible that I may be transferred to the US. Does anyone know
> how to register a foreign built Europa in the US?
> thanks Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List ">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com ">http://for
ums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution ">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ring mount to subframe question |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Just for the general information of the group I spoke to Bud yesterday on
the subject.
I measured everything again and definitely we have 10mm bolts going though
a 11mm hole on the rotax ring mount (suspension frame).
He said that it's OK per design to put the 10MM bolt into the 11mm hole on
the ring mount and he has 10 year old aircraft with no signs of fretting to
prove it.
I guess it goes against every instinct - or at least my instincts - but
there it is.
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sat, Apr 4, 2015 at 4:33 PM, William Daniell wrote:
> I am mounting the rotax ring mount to the engine mounting frame using the
> M10x110 hex head bolts.
>
> The issue is that the M10 bolts have quite a lot of slop in the rotax ring
> mount, my guess is that the rotax ring mount holes are about 1/2 to 1 mm
> larger than the bolts.
>
> Is this normal?
>
> The bolts fit perfectly in the Europa engine mounting frame.
>
> thanks
>
> Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
| From: | "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de> |
Hi,
Silent Hektik says, the distance from the battery to the HD-starter should not be more than half a meter http://www.silent-hektik.com/UL_912_Anlasser.htm. It seems to be a recommendation to achieve the best effect.
Many of the 914-jockeys do have the battery installed in the baggage bay behind
the seats (me too).
That said, I wonder, if it makes a big difference between a conventional and a
LiFePo Battery.
On the other hand I don't have problems with the stock Rotax starter other than
occasional kick backs on low/very low temperatures.
Regards
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS Trigear 914
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440365#440365
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
Hi! Roland,
Hope you are well and ready for a new flying season?
As you may have noticed my twin odyssey 13.5 amp hour batteries are mounted
on the passenger foot well. I would guess all of 12" or (300mm in your
speak) to the HD Starter. Never a kick back and an immediate start up
without fail ......so long as you remember to switch the electric fuel pumps
on ! I will never forget the hassle I had getting the Jabiru Six cylinder
donkey to power up from the battery behind the seats ! Recommendations from
all and sundry until I used my own brain on the issue !
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG. 914 Rotax.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roland
Sent: 07 April 2015 14:29
Subject: Europa-List: Re: 912S Starter on a 914
Hi,
Silent Hektik says, the distance from the battery to the HD-starter should
not be more than half a meter
http://www.silent-hektik.com/UL_912_Anlasser.htm. It seems to be a
recommendation to achieve the best effect.
Many of the 914-jockeys do have the battery installed in the baggage bay
behind the seats (me too).
That said, I wonder, if it makes a big difference between a conventional and
a LiFePo Battery.
On the other hand I don't have problems with the stock Rotax starter other
than occasional kick backs on low/very low temperatures.
Regards
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS Trigear 914
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440365#440365
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: batch of classic fuel filler pipes being made |
| From: | "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk> |
Ha, and yes, I would also STILL be interested in buying a kit or a pipe !!
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
Newby: 150 hours 36 months on the Mono
g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440385#440385
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
| From: | "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de> |
Good morning Bob!
Yes, absolutely ready for the flying season and hope to meet you on Texel again
this year :-) BTW: will anyone of you Europa folks be at the AERO-fare in Friedrichshafen
15th-18th April?
Moving the battery in front of the cockpit makes perfect sense, in spite of moving
forward the CG as well. I was tempted to do this but missed the chance when
I installed my whole new cockpit panel and therefore had the complete electrics
and interior taken apart.
I just enjoy flying at the moment....
Best wishes
Roland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440422#440422
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
Hi! Roland,
Yes, keeping the centre of Gravity Forward makes sense since loads such as
fuel baggage etc move it back anyway !.
Ivor has mothballed his plane for the season due to hangar problems at Lydd
so he is going onto my insurance to keep his Hours in compliance.
We intend doing some smaller trips this season for that purpose (mine too!)
We aren't planning on AERO-fare in Friedrichshafen this year, no spare cash
anyway ! Hope to make it to Texel though but it clashes with the LAA Rally (
I think?) I would think the Europa Group would notice your question but I'm
copying this message in to David Joyce who is mostly involved in trips and
tours, perhaps he will answer you?......David ???
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roland
Sent: 08 April 2015 08:04
Subject: Europa-List: Re: 912S Starter on a 914
Good morning Bob!
Yes, absolutely ready for the flying season and hope to meet you on Texel
again this year :-) BTW: will anyone of you Europa folks be at the AERO-fare
in Friedrichshafen 15th-18th April?
Moving the battery in front of the cockpit makes perfect sense, in spite of
moving forward the CG as well. I was tempted to do this but missed the
chance when I installed my whole new cockpit panel and therefore had the
complete electrics and interior taken apart.
I just enjoy flying at the moment....
Best wishes
Roland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440422#440422
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alan_hunter1664" <alan_hunter1664(at)yahoo.co.uk> |
Alan,
The roll pins attach the shoot bolt to the link rod, my problem was at the other
end, however problem solved. I bought the kit partially built and the previous
builder had coated the handles with clear lacquer increasing their thickness.
bought new handles and everything fits as it should.
Many thanks
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440423#440423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk |
Roland, I am not aware of any Brits going to Friedrichshafen, but that
doesn't rule out the possibility. I attach the Club trips program for
this year. You are welcome to join in any of them It is sad that Texel
have chosen same date as LAA Rally - it will inevitably cut down UK
participation.
For anyone who has seen a previous version of the Trips schedule PLEASE
NOTE DATE OF ITALIAN TRIP IS NOW JUNE 6-14th
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
On 2015-04-08 09:23, Bob Harrison wrote:
>
> Hi! Roland,
> Yes, keeping the centre of Gravity Forward makes sense since loads such as
> fuel baggage etc move it back anyway !.
> Ivor has mothballed his plane for the season due to hangar problems at Lydd
> so he is going onto my insurance to keep his Hours in compliance.
> We intend doing some smaller trips this season for that purpose (mine too!)
> We aren't planning on AERO-fare in Friedrichshafen this year, no spare cash
> anyway ! Hope to make it to Texel though but it clashes with the LAA Rally (
> I think?) I would think the Europa Group would notice your question but I'm
> copying this message in to David Joyce who is mostly involved in trips and
> tours, perhaps he will answer you?......David ???
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roland
> Sent: 08 April 2015 08:04
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: 912S Starter on a 914
>
>
> Good morning Bob!
>
> Yes, absolutely ready for the flying season and hope to meet you on Texel
> again this year :-) BTW: will anyone of you Europa folks be at the AERO-fare
> in Friedrichshafen 15th-18th April?
>
> Moving the battery in front of the cockpit makes perfect sense, in spite of
> moving forward the CG as well. I was tempted to do this but missed the
> chance when I installed my whole new cockpit panel and therefore had the
> complete electrics and interior taken apart.
>
> I just enjoy flying at the moment....
>
> Best wishes
> Roland
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440422#440422 [1]
>
Links:
------
[1] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440422#440422
[2] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[3] http://forums.matronics.com
[4] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912S Starter on a 914 |
| From: | "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de> |
Bob,
forward this to Ivor - end of hangar problems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440427#440427
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/anhnger_157.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa Trips |
Hoping fly to Wyke and interested in any extension.
Regards Dave Park G-LDVO
Sent from my iPhone
> On 8 Apr 2015, at 09:57, davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> Roland, I am not aware of any Brits going to Friedrichshafen, but that doe
sn't rule out the possibility. I attach the Club trips program for this year
. You are welcome to join in any of them It is sad that Texel have chosen sa
me date as LAA Rally - it will inevitably cut down UK participation.
>
> For anyone who has seen a previous version of the Trips schedule PLEA
SE NOTE DATE OF ITALIAN TRIP IS NOW JUNE 6-14th
>
> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>
>
>
>
>> On 2015-04-08 09:23, Bob Harrison wrote:
>>
>
>>
>> Hi! Roland,
>> Yes, keeping the centre of Gravity Forward makes sense since loads such a
s
>> fuel baggage etc move it back anyway !.
>> Ivor has mothballed his plane for the season due to hangar problems at Ly
dd
>> so he is going onto my insurance to keep his Hours in compliance.
>> We intend doing some smaller trips this season for that purpose (mine too
!)
>> We aren't planning on AERO-fare in Friedrichshafen this year, no spare ca
sh
>> anyway ! Hope to make it to Texel though but it clashes with the LAA Rall
y (
>> I think?) I would think the Europa Group would notice your question but I
'm
>> copying this message in to David Joyce who is mostly involved in trips an
d
>> tours, perhaps he will answer you?......David ???
>> Regards
>> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roland
>> Sent: 08 April 2015 08:04
>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Re: 912S Starter on a 914
>>
>>
>> Good morning Bob!
>>
>> Yes, absolutely ready for the flying season and hope to meet you on Texel
>> again this year :-) BTW: will anyone of you Europa folks be at the AERO-f
are
>> in Friedrichshafen 15th-18th April?
>>
>> Moving the battery in front of the cockpit makes perfect sense, in spite o
f
>> moving forward the CG as well. I was tempted to do this but missed the
>> chance when I installed my whole new cockpit panel and therefore had the
>> complete electrics and interior taken apart.
>>
>> I just enjoy flying at the moment....
>>
>> Best wishes
>> Roland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440422#440422
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> ics.com
>> .matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
Hi Folks,
I'm changing out the rubber engine mounts and performing Mo 72. I had a
terrible job getting the split pins out of the two lower engine mounting
bolts. I was thinking, is there anything preventing me from reinstalling
these lower bolts backwards so I can easily get the split pins back in?
Good idea or not advisable?
Martin Tuck
N152MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net> |
Roland,
Have you details/drawings of the trailer? Or details of the supplier?
My Europa is based at EGSL in a new steel hangar with 7 other aircraft, it is very
nice but also costly (GBP225+20%VAT per month) making it the most significant
fixed/variable cost. In a typical year (50 hours) this amounts to GBP64.80
of the total hourly cost.
Ideally l would trailer the aircraft from Oct to Apr each year and use the hangar
at other times. But such is the demand for hangarage in Essex this option
is not possible (l waited nearly 2 years for a hangar space) unless l parked it
outside in the summer.
Regards
John
--------
John Wighton
Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440478#440478
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Bolts |
| From: | Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au> |
Martin,
I inserted mine from the rear. SO much easier as you suggest. Have to wonder why
it wasn't called out in the manual??
Best regards
Kingsley in Oz.
Sent from my iPhone
> On 9 Apr 2015, at 11:55 am, Martin Tuck wrote:
>
> I'm changing out the rubber engine mounts and performing Mo 72. I had a terrible
job getting the split pins out of the two lower engine mounting bolts. I was
thinking, is there anything preventing me from reinstalling these lower bolts
backwards so I can easily get the split pins back in? Good idea or not advisable?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Bolts |
| From: | "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net> |
Martin,
There should be no structural reason why the bolt needs to be aligned in a particular
direction, as they are fore-aft the 'normal' convention (for vertical bolts)
does not apply.
Reading the manual (XS 912 installation) it states that the AN5-41 should be mounted
lower two pointing forward and upper two pointing aft. This applies to
the MT05 mount.
But for the Classic with the MT01 mount the orientation shows the lower bolts as
pointing aft.
Regards
John
--------
John Wighton
Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440481#440481
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/912_xs_174.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de> |
Hi John,
it's the same at my homebase EDLE - 340 incl. tax/month.
My trailer is from Anschau in Germany http://www.anschau.de/englishversion.htm
It was originally built for a MCR 01, then modified for a Dallach Fascination when
I bought it (for 7000 ) and then converted (for another 4000 ) for my Europa
by the factory. Axel Anschau is also prepared to design a purpose fit trailer
from scratch for the Europa and I guess the basic price for a similar model
is about 16-17k . That sounds expensive first but the trailer pays off in a few
years.
Rigging and de-rigging is extra effort but on the other hand one avoids hangar
rash and is completely autarkic also when doing maintenance at home or transporting
the plane anywhere independent of the weather when needed.
Bob Harrison (G-PTAG) and Steve Pitt (G-SMDH) also have closed trailers in the
UK.
Regards
Roland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440482#440482
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Bolts |
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
Thanks John, they must have changed the manual at some point. I would have used
the first set of instructions ( pre-official manual).
Martin
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 9, 2015, at 5:14 AM, John Wighton wrote:
>
>
> Martin,
> There should be no structural reason why the bolt needs to be aligned in a particular
direction, as they are fore-aft the 'normal' convention (for vertical
bolts) does not apply.
>
> Reading the manual (XS 912 installation) it states that the AN5-41 should be
mounted lower two pointing forward and upper two pointing aft. This applies to
the MT05 mount.
>
> But for the Classic with the MT01 mount the orientation shows the lower bolts
as pointing aft.
>
> Regards
> John
>
> --------
> John Wighton
> Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440481#440481
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/912_xs_174.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearing |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Bud,
Change of topic, I am not a builder but I look closely how things are made, and
I will say I think I could have made a better job of some design components.
I have 25000 hour and are not going to damage anyone's aeroplane by giving it a
little wiggle, which I have found a number of common wear and tear, just little
things like the wear In the stablator hinges, and plastic cups on the control
arm. seems to wear more on the port side.
Wish some one produced a list of common wear in components one could check.
However I have also noticed on a few planes a small hair line crack some Europa's
have it on both sides and some one only one side, running up from the corner
of the fusalarge of wear the spare slides into the fuselage, I would say it
just a crack in the jell coat and of no structural relevants caused by flexing
of the skin,
Have you come across this before.
Regards
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440521#440521
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Bolts |
| From: | "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net> |
Martin,
They are all online now.
See: http://www.europa-aircraft.com/assistance/manuals.php
Regards,
John
--------
John Wighton
Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440528#440528
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | flap deflection question |
I spent most of today fiddling with the flap actuating pushrod, trying to get an
acceptable range of movement in the flaps. Eventually got to the state where
the port flap was travelling 26.3 degrees and the starboard one 26.9 degrees.
They both looked pretty well-aligned with the wing/flap template when retracted.
I wondered if this is an acceptable amount of differential.
Then I thought I ought to check the movement with the outrigger legs fitted. After
fitting them, the extended angles of both flaps are closely similar to those
recorded before I fitted the outriggers, but the retracted positions are both
drooping somewhat. The travel now is 25.3 degrees (port) and 26.0 degrees (starboard).
Pushing down on the outrigger legs causes the flaps to droop a bit more, and pulling
up on them allows the flaps to adopt the previously-observed fully retracted
position.
I think I have assembled the outrigger mechanism correctly and the outrigger legs
are locking down very securely. Is there something I might have missed that
causes this droop? Will air loads pull the flaps into the fully retracted position
when aloft? What, if anything, can (or should) I do about it?
All input welcomed.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Bolts |
| From: | Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com> |
Thanks John, never knew they were there!
All the best,
Martin
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 9, 2015, at 3:10 PM, John Wighton wrote:
>
>
> Martin,
>
> They are all online now.
>
> See: http://www.europa-aircraft.com/assistance/manuals.php
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> --------
> John Wighton
> Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440528#440528
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g-fizy" <jim.davis1(at)me.com> |
Hi john ,my europa is on the factory trailer in my unit ,still waiting for repair
europa are so slow :-( ,,if you fancy a trip my way I wll pic u up and take
you to unit so you can measure up ,any trailer manufacturing company should be
able to make one at a fraction of europas cost ,well any from up north jim pm
my from phone number
--------
owner g-fizy
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440567#440567
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. |
| From: | "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk> |
my silicon water pipe, the port side, the bent one to the radiator, split today,
thankfully I was over the strip and shut off. It had been in place for about
160 hours/3 years having moved the radiator back after nearly burning through
the original one during test flying. I thought silicon would last forever but
it seems to have stiffened. In fact I am coming to the conclusion that on shutting
down the close exhaust causes the static hot water in the pipe to boil
and pressure builds at this point. It is this that used to cause a small weep
that others have seen. I blocked that with a hefty clamp long ago, so there is
no release and the stiffening pipe finally split- a 2" clean rupture.
So I shall change it each 100 hours in future and add some insulation around it.
Perhaps I'll add a baffle in between and sleeve the pipe to prevent expansion.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
Newby: 150 hours 36 months on the Mono
g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440596#440596
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Challis <cakeykev(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. |
I moved the rad back as far as possible. Silicone pipe with silicone heat sleeve
as well. It appears much better but it's only been just over a year.
Kevin Challis
> On 10 Apr 2015, at 21:35, graeme bird wrote:
>
>
> my silicon water pipe, the port side, the bent one to the radiator, split today,
thankfully I was over the strip and shut off. It had been in place for about
160 hours/3 years having moved the radiator back after nearly burning through
the original one during test flying. I thought silicon would last forever
but it seems to have stiffened. In fact I am coming to the conclusion that on
shutting down the close exhaust causes the static hot water in the pipe to boil
and pressure builds at this point. It is this that used to cause a small weep
that others have seen. I blocked that with a hefty clamp long ago, so there
is no release and the stiffening pipe finally split- a 2" clean rupture.
> So I shall change it each 100 hours in future and add some insulation around
it. Perhaps I'll add a baffle in between and sleeve the pipe to prevent expansion.
>
> --------
> Graeme Bird
> G-UMPY
> Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
> Newby: 150 hours 36 months on the Mono
> g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440596#440596
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
I'd like to start this thread as the go to place for those coming to or at SNF.
A similar thread proved useful at Oshkosh last summer. Just post a reply to
add your information to this thread.
An informal get together each day at Custom Flight Creations booth N055 at 11 am
will give us a chance to meet and chat.
Ira Rampil is coordinating the annual Engineering Meeting for Thursday evening.
Steve Pitt from the Europa Club will be in attendance with the latest copy of the
Europa Flyer.
I will have the most current version of the spreadsheet of Europa owners and builders
available at Bud's booth. Stop by and check and update your contact information.
Europas coming known at this time (Saturday, 4/11) are:
Ira Rampil N224XS
John Wigney N262WF HBC
Kevin Klinefelter N211KA
Jim & Heather Butcher N241BW HBC
Jim & Heather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440629#440629
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Autopilot servo instalation |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
I have seen searching through the list that there are some alternatives to
the major surgery required for Mod 75 and 76.
For example I saw some correspondence between Raimo and Bob Gowing
connecting servo to the tail plane torque tube using a bracket. I assume
that the service is mounted on a fiberglass bracket mounted on the floor
....
Could I prevail on anyone who has who has an alternative to the official
mods and which does not require major surgery send me a pic please.
Many thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alain Chabert <alainchabert(at)wanadoo.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo instalation |
Hello,
Look at the solution I adopted from 330 hours and is much simpler than
the proposed mod.
Regards
*Alain CHABERT*
__
Le 11/04/2015 18:44, William Daniell a crit :
> I have seen searching through the list that there are some
> alternatives to the major surgery required for Mod 75 and 76.
>
> For example I saw some correspondence between Raimo and Bob Gowing
> connecting servo to the tail plane torque tube using a bracket. I
> assume that the service is mounted on a fiberglass bracket mounted on
> the floor ....
>
> Could I prevail on anyone who has who has an alternative to the
> official mods and which does not require major surgery send me a pic
> please.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun N Fun 2015 |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Excellent!
Thanks Jim!
Let me add that Bud is planning on having a Forum in the classroom
building early Thursday afternoon.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440651#440651
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Knowlton <flyingscott_k(at)hotmail.com> |
Gents,
I'm a member of Matronics on the Pietenpol builders list. I'm wondering if any
of you might be able to give me the contact info for Karl Heindi, the owner of
C-FIRS. Myself and a partner are looking at a Europa XS and are only a few hours
from him. The aircraft we are looking at is across the country and we'd
both like to see Karl's aircraft and speak with him prior to making the commitment
to travel a much greater distance.
Thank you.
Scott Knowlton
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electronic Flap position indicator |
| From: | "willydewey" <willydewey(at)gmail.com> |
Has any member tried to install a flap position indicator rather than rely on the
actual markers on the flaps themselves?
There are various types of panel mounted indicators available and
combined with a sensor on the flap actuating tube it should work ok.
I am just fishing for ideas
Bill
--------
Give a wise man knowledge and he will be yet wiser
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440658#440658
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Challis <cakeykev(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Flap position indicator |
Isn't this just over complicating matters. Looking out of the window is fool proof
nothing to go wrong.
I love gadgets but can't justify this one.
Kevin Challis
> On 11 Apr 2015, at 19:42, willydewey wrote:
>
>
> Has any member tried to install a flap position indicator rather than rely on
the actual markers on the flaps themselves?
> There are various types of panel mounted indicators available and
> combined with a sensor on the flap actuating tube it should work ok.
> I am just fishing for ideas
> Bill
>
> --------
> Give a wise man knowledge and he will be yet wiser
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440658#440658
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Try kheindl(at)msn.com
Jim Butcher
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440662#440662
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Flap position indicator |
| From: | "willydewey" <willydewey(at)gmail.com> |
I very much agree with you Kevin, but my neck gets cramp sometimes temporary restricting
movement. A panel indicator would help on those occasions that's why
I posted the request.
Regards
Bill
--------
Give a wise man knowledge and he will be yet wiser
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440664#440664
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic Flap position indicator |
The servo that comes with our Europa has a 10-position LED light which will
report the position of the flap. If you have electric flaps, then you
already have it, since it comes with the kit.
If not, the same company that manufactures the electric servo's to move the
flaps also has a sensor that you can mount to the flap mechanism (whether
you have electric flaps or not), that can be used to provide positioning
data.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of willydewey
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2015 11:42 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Electronic Flap position indicator
Has any member tried to install a flap position indicator rather than rely
on the actual markers on the flaps themselves?
There are various types of panel mounted indicators available and combined
with a sensor on the flap actuating tube it should work ok.
I am just fishing for ideas
Bill
--------
Give a wise man knowledge and he will be yet wiser
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo instalation |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Alain
thank you. Very nice.
How do did you install the plate on the tail control mechanism...must have
been rather difficult.
I am 1.95 and I dont see myself getting into the back of the aircraft to
install the plate!
I was thinking of a similar place for the servo but with a bracket on the
torque tube instead of the plate and control long rod you used. However I
wonder about the integrity of the torque tube as it seems a little thin.
I think that I will have a look at the feasibility of installing something
like your system.
many thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sat, Apr 11, 2015 at 12:05 PM, Alain Chabert
wrote:
> Hello,
> Look at the solution I adopted from 330 hours and is much simpler than th
e
> proposed mod.
> Regards
>
> *Alain CHABERT*
>
>
> Le 11/04/2015 18:44, William Daniell a =C3=A9crit :
>
> I have seen searching through the list that there are some alternatives
> to the major surgery required for Mod 75 and 76.
>
> For example I saw some correspondence between Raimo and Bob Gowing
> connecting servo to the tail plane torque tube using a bracket. I assume
> that the service is mounted on a fiberglass bracket mounted on the floor
> ....
>
> Could I prevail on anyone who has who has an alternative to the
> official mods and which does not require major surgery send me a pic plea
se.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Flap position indicator |
| From: | "Rick Moss" <Rkwmoss(at)gmail.com> |
I fitted the 10-bar LED indicator to my flaps using existing wiring (my Europa
was a barn find and had the panel unceremoniously removed when I bought it). I
found the wires from the existing flap servo and deduced them to be a flap position
indicator (variable resistance with flap travel) and purchased the Ray
Allen trim position display from Aircraft Spruce (unfortunately I could not locate
it in the UK, and as I recall it cost circa $95 delivered). I do use it although
always follow up with a quick look over my shoulder to verify!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440701#440701
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
On 9 Apr 2015, at 21:32, Rowland Carson wrote:
> the port flap was travelling 26.3 degrees and the starboard one 26.9 degrees.
They both looked pretty well-aligned with the wing/flap template when retracted.
I wondered if this is an acceptable amount of differential.
> I thought I ought to check the movement with the outrigger legs fitted. After
fitting them, the extended angles of both flaps are closely similar to those
recorded before I fitted the outriggers, but the retracted positions are both
drooping somewhat. The travel now is 25.3 degrees (port) and 26.0 degrees (starboard).
> What, if anything, can (or should) I do about it?
Looks like no-one has any ideas on this question, so I guess Ill have to ask the
factory . . . .
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
Rowlandcan you quantify drooping somewhat?
Personally, I gave up on attempting perfection long ago and have since settled
on striving for excellencewhile reminding myself that my goal is to get Ms. Europa
up in the air.
Fred
A194
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 8:59 AM, Rowland Carson wrote:
>
>
> On 9 Apr 2015, at 21:32, Rowland Carson wrote:
>
>> the port flap was travelling 26.3 degrees and the starboard one 26.9 degrees.
They both looked pretty well-aligned with the wing/flap template when retracted.
I wondered if this is an acceptable amount of differential.
>
>> I thought I ought to check the movement with the outrigger legs fitted. After
fitting them, the extended angles of both flaps are closely similar to those
recorded before I fitted the outriggers, but the retracted positions are both
drooping somewhat. The travel now is 25.3 degrees (port) and 26.0 degrees (starboard).
>
>> What, if anything, can (or should) I do about it?
>
> Looks like no-one has any ideas on this question, so I guess Ill have to ask
the factory . . . .
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
> | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
> | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
> | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
> | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
On 12 Apr 2015, at 18:07, Fred Klein wrote:
> Rowlandcan you quantify drooping somewhat?
Fred - I quoted the numbers both in my original posting of 9th April, and in my
edited version today.
26.3 minus 25.3 is 1 degree droop (port) and 26.9 minus 26.0 is 0.9 degree droop
(stbd).
With the weight of the outriggers, both flaps seem reluctant to come firmly up
to the retracted position, and can easily be wiggled up & down a bit by gentle
pushing up & down on the outrigger legs, which seem to have a big mechanical
advantage on the rest of the mechanism.
Obviously folk with completed aeroplanes cant easily check if theirs behave the
same as mine unless they have a dolly to support the fuselage while doing operating
the retract lever.
Maybe in flight the airflow will support the outrigger legs more towards the horizontal.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Fred
Mine have about 1 deg difference down. To make the angle the same when
retracted i put in a stop as recommended by bud.
Will
Rowlandcan you quantify =9Cdrooping somewhat=9D?
Personally, I gave up on attempting perfection long ago and have since
settled on striving for excellencewhile reminding myself that my g
oal is
to get Ms. Europa up in the air.
Fred
A194
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 8:59 AM, Rowland Carson
wrote:
>
m
>
>
> On 9 Apr 2015, at 21:32, Rowland Carson wrote:
>
>> the port flap was travelling 26.3 degrees and the starboard one 26.9
degrees. They both looked pretty well-aligned with the wing/flap template
when retracted. I wondered if this is an acceptable amount of differential.
>
>> I thought I ought to check the movement with the outrigger legs fitted.
After fitting them, the extended angles of both flaps are closely similar
to those recorded before I fitted the outriggers, but the retracted
positions are both drooping somewhat. The travel now is 25.3 degrees (port)
and 26.0 degrees (starboard).
>
>> What, if anything, can (or should) I do about it?
>
> Looks like no-one has any ideas on this question, so I guess I=99ll
have to
ask the factory . . . .
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
> | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
> | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
> | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
> | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> |
Rowlandmy apologiesI was unclear. Yes, I saw your degree measurements, and when
you used the term drooping somewhat my mind immediately pictured a misalignment
of the flap trailing edge with that of the aileron (in neutral position) and
I was wondering if you had a measurement in inches or centimeters between the
twoFred
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 2:53 PM, Rowland Carson wrote:
>
>
> On 12 Apr 2015, at 18:07, Fred Klein wrote:
>
>> Rowlandcan you quantify drooping somewhat?
>
> Fred - I quoted the numbers both in my original posting of 9th April, and in
my edited version today.
>
> 26.3 minus 25.3 is 1 degree droop (port) and 26.9 minus 26.0 is 0.9 degree droop
(stbd).
>
> With the weight of the outriggers, both flaps seem reluctant to come firmly up
to the retracted position, and can easily be wiggled up & down a bit by gentle
pushing up & down on the outrigger legs, which seem to have a big mechanical
advantage on the rest of the mechanism.
>
> Obviously folk with completed aeroplanes cant easily check if theirs behave the
same as mine unless they have a dolly to support the fuselage while doing operating
the retract lever.
>
> Maybe in flight the airflow will support the outrigger legs more towards the
horizontal.
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
> | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
> | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
> | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
> | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
Roland and William,
One degree or a bit less is about what the slop in the system gives you
no matter how hard you work at it.
The flap tube, when floating just off the baggage bay wall, is flexible
enough that the flaps float in either the up or down position, nothing
should bind or be forced.
I prefer putting stops on the up point on the left and right sides of
the flap tube, with the mono flap actuator tube all the way forward
(gear up) and the flap tube just touching the stops. Then I drilled the
top hole on each flap arm to set the flap incidence perfectly. I
dropped the gear and sure enough, the flaps were off nearly a degree.
How? I was so careful, how could it be off that far?
Each flap is set with an about distance from the wing closeout, then we
measure with a micrometer for the flap pin and eyeball the pin hole. We
take our string aligned flap bracket holes, whack the bulkhead to get
the hinge supports to fit and do our best to get the hinges level.
Finally, we align a bent tube to the flap drive pins and try to align
the hinge arms. It=99s a miracle if we get it to within a degree,
from up to down but we do. The flaps are quite flexible and can be
moved slightly by hand with light pressure in either the up or down
position. If the ailerons aren=99t binding and a proper Annex E
is accomplished, and the incidence is set right, the flaps look even by
eye with the gear up (as shown in my trimming guide), the ailerons are
even also with the flaps (tips also) and the plane will fly level with
only the slightest of stick pressure. That can be fixed by using the
techniques in my trimming document.
Enjoy.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
From: William Daniell
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: flap deflection question
Fred
Mine have about 1 deg difference down. To make the angle the same when
retracted i put in a stop as recommended by bud.
Will
Rowlandcan you quantify =9Cdrooping somewhat=9D?
Personally, I gave up on attempting perfection long ago and have since
settled on striving for excellencewhile reminding myself that
my goal is to get Ms. Europa up in the air.
Fred
A194
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 8:59 AM, Rowland Carson
wrote:
>
>
> On 9 Apr 2015, at 21:32, Rowland Carson
wrote:
>
>> the port flap was travelling 26.3 degrees and the starboard one 26.9
degrees. They both looked pretty well-aligned with the wing/flap
template when retracted. I wondered if this is an acceptable amount of
differential.
>
>> I thought I ought to check the movement with the outrigger legs
fitted. After fitting them, the extended angles of both flaps are
closely similar to those recorded before I fitted the outriggers, but
the retracted positions are both drooping somewhat. The travel now is
25.3 degrees (port) and 26.0 degrees (starboard).
>
>> What, if anything, can (or should) I do about it?
>
> Looks like no-one has any ideas on this question, so I guess
I=99ll have to ask the factory . . . .
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
> | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
> | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
> | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
> | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
>
>
pa-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo instalation |
Alan,
Nice clean job.
I prefer not to run a thin wall one inch tube that far without an idler
in the center. However, the pitch system only needs a couple of pounds
of pressure when out of trim, and when the stab is trimmed neutral, very
little pressure is necessary to move the stab. We design our systems
for the worse case scenario, that is, full trim up the the max torque of
the trim motor and the bending moment of the thin wall tubing has to be
capable of taking the load plus a rather large safety factor (since it
is a control system) without bending or flexing. If the trim tube
should bend, it can jamb the flight control.
I prefer to put the trim motor where you did, but make a 3/2 ratio arm
to drive the tube via a tube clamp.
However, to keep a short drive tube, I would recommend installing the
new light weight servos behind the mass balance post using a two inch
extension from the torque tube arm (there are two holes there anyway to
mount .016 steel arms to). Use a 1/2 inch with .049 wall for the drive
tube (like the aileron tubes). The length of the tube should be about 2
feet.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
From: Alain Chabert
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2015 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Autopilot servo instalation
Hello,
Look at the solution I adopted from 330 hours and is much simpler than
the proposed mod.
Regards
Alain CHABERT
Le 11/04/2015 18:44, William Daniell a =C3=A9crit :
I have seen searching through the list that there are some
alternatives to the major surgery required for Mod 75 and 76.
For example I saw some correspondence between Raimo and Bob Gowing
connecting servo to the tail plane torque tube using a bracket. I
assume that the service is mounted on a fiberglass bracket mounted on
the floor ....
Could I prevail on anyone who has who has an alternative to the
official mods and which does not require major surgery send me a pic
please.
Many thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo instalation |
| From: | William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> |
Bud
Does this mean that you put a clamp on the main torque tube?
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 9:02 PM, Bud Yerly wrote:
> Alan,
> Nice clean job.
> I prefer not to run a thin wall one inch tube that far without an idler i
n
> the center. However, the pitch system only needs a couple of pounds of
> pressure when out of trim, and when the stab is trimmed neutral, very
> little pressure is necessary to move the stab. We design our systems for
> the worse case scenario, that is, full trim up the the max torque of the
> trim motor and the bending moment of the thin wall tubing has to be capab
le
> of taking the load plus a rather large safety factor (since it is a contr
ol
> system) without bending or flexing. If the trim tube should bend, it can
> jamb the flight control.
>
> I prefer to put the trim motor where you did, but make a 3/2 ratio arm to
> drive the tube via a tube clamp.
>
> However, to keep a short drive tube, I would recommend installing the new
> light weight servos behind the mass balance post using a two inch extensi
on
> from the torque tube arm (there are two holes there anyway to mount .016
> steel arms to). Use a 1/2 inch with .049 wall for the drive tube (like t
he
> aileron tubes). The length of the tube should be about 2 feet.
>
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> *From:* Alain Chabert
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 11, 2015 1:05 PM
> *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: Europa-List: Autopilot servo instalation
>
> Hello,
> Look at the solution I adopted from 330 hours and is much simpler than th
e
> proposed mod.
> Regards
>
> *Alain CHABERT*
>
>
> Le 11/04/2015 18:44, William Daniell a =C3=A9crit :
>
> I have seen searching through the list that there are some alternatives
> to the major surgery required for Mod 75 and 76.
>
> For example I saw some correspondence between Raimo and Bob Gowing
> connecting servo to the tail plane torque tube using a bracket. I assume
> that the service is mounted on a fiberglass bracket mounted on the floor
> ....
>
> Could I prevail on anyone who has who has an alternative to the official
> mods and which does not require major surgery send me a pic please.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
>
> *
>
===========
tronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearing |
Alan, and others:
I have an 8 year old aircraft as many of you do, with many small cracks
chips and dings in my finish. What is good and what is bad requires
inspection. Builders are more aware of the amount of filler on their
aircraft and can easily tell if the crack is in the finishing material or
structure. Note that gel coat tends not to crack but the filler certainly
does. That said, impact damage can show as a spider crack in the finish
where the urethane paint fails as well as the gelcoat. Blisters and
de-laminations are to be attended to immediately.
As a builder I am the manufacturer, and am responsible for my checklists,
ops procedures, determining go no go, equipment lists etc. Second hand
owners must secure a knowledgeable aviation mechanic to determine the
condition of the aircraft. As a pilot, It is my job to do a proper
preflight, system and control checks as we did as professional pilots. As a
second hand owner, you are not normally a qualified maintainer so asking
questions is the right thing to do. Comprehensive lists of wear items on an
airplane means some company has done extensive mean time between failure and
ISO tests to determine life spans of components. You will NEVER get that in
experimental or general aviation. If the mechanic says its OK, and you
don't think so, don't fly was our rule as commercial pilots. As an airplane
owner you should be aware of ADs, SBs, SIs, and Mods affecting your aircraft
to alert your mechanic.
Typically I see the following:
Cracks around the door sill area created by pushing hard on the sill on
entry and exit. (Solved by putting in a diagonal from the sill to the side
making a triangle.
Cracks in Trigears where our butts sit on the wing forward of the spar.
This crack radiates along the spar from the wing fillet to the first rib and
is in the filler that is along the transition between the solid spar and
flexible skin. This is an area never intended as a heavy duty walkway.
(Solved by carbon fiber or glass over the filler from the root rib to the
1st rib to prevent flex cracking.)
Cracks around tail tie down not properly reinforced or impact damage from
nose high tail dragging landings.
Cracks in the rudder lower hinges due to smacking the stops. (The filler is
thick here often times and it can't take flexing without cracking.)
Cracks at the aileron hinge from full deflection aileron rolls (mild
aerobatics). (Inspect after aileron removal for white line crack. If so
reinforce, both sides and repaint.)
I do not normally see cracks in the wing through hole area.
Most new owners abuse the wing sockets thinking they hold the wing during
rigging. They are a guide and alignment device, have your assistant hold
the wing tip until the pins are in. Do not slide the spar on the raw glass
of the hole, it will cut the glass. Install a stainless or phenolic sheet
to protect the glass. There should be no cracks in the wing box area or
spar strap.
Aircraft with hard landing impacts or overstressing will show some skin
bending in the wing area between the forward and aft pins and spar hole. If
the area is wrinkled or cracked, do a proper hard landing inspection. Buy
some touchup paint for sure if you have cracks as you may be grinding some.
Most new owners screw up the stabs because they were never taught how to
properly put on a stab and take it off. It amazes me that they grab the tip
and just pull and wiggle. That's a broken out bearing waiting to happen.
Refer to the operators manual drawing on the figure installing the
tailplane. Do it vertical, but the hands are in the wrong position. The
lower hand should be able to balance the stab vertical and the upper hand is
used to fine tune and rotate fore and aft to wiggle the tight tube without
any bending on to the torque tube. Slide the stab inboard until the inner
bearing lightly contacts the tube and finesse it on the tube as you did the
outer. Hold vertical and slide the stab inboard until the skin is just
short of the forward drive pin. Rotate the stab short of horizontal and
align the pins with the holes. I move to the tip of the stab and by feel
and eye can hit my stab holes easily then just a bit of a push to put it on
to just contact position, insert your trim tab to the cross tube and then
push on the tip to fully seat the pins in the sockets. To remove, tilt the
stab TE up, use the thumb against the fin and at the fingers cushioning the
root flange with the other hand doing the same on the leading edge and
simply push your thumbs against the fuselage. The stab should pop out a
bit, ease it back, disconnect the tab and use the same hand positions as
installing, while easing it off.
Wear and tear are standard in aviation. Get a good mechanic and spend the
time / money to investigate, and repair.
All the talk about hinge wear means the pilot/builder/mechanic has not lubed
the hinges consistently and there is some corrosion wearing the pin/hole
which is fair wear and tear. This is not a big problem. Look at a 10 year
old Piper and see how much the hinge pins move.
Solution is first to look at a new MS20001 series hinge and see how much
movement there is (+.007-.010 brand new). There is quite a bit, or down
right sloppy movement. Pin tolerance is .003 and has .003 anodizing and
hole tolerance is .007 so seeing .013 wiggle after the anodizing wears off
would not be uncommon. That is a lot. If you have 50% more than that, I
would consider the down time and cut out the hinge and replace. This
happens in all airplanes. People normally don't care on a civil airplane, a
mechanic is required to check it, but on an experimental, they look for
fault. The fault is these items do corrode (pins are steel or stainless,
the hinge is aluminum and dissimilar metals corrode) and wear. Hinges are
under smallish shear loads and a bit in normal force loads so I worry if I
can pull the hinge back and see 1/4 of the hole. Now that's bad.
Bushings wear, bearings wear, paint wears, tubing wears. Fuel/oil line
hardens (even teflon) and one bend makes a micro crack. Nothing lasts
forever.
I do a 25 hour progressive inspection of my aircraft at each oil change. I
start by reviewing my squawk list. What can I fix. While the oil is
draining, I pull and lube the stab tubes, lube all the hinges, the throttle
pivots, and door shoot bolts/hinges. I use a syringe with a large non
pointed tip, and Mouse Milk light oil. Pop open the aft inspection plates
and do a quick look over. Pull the fuel access panels and look for leaks.
Look for tracks of coolant, brake fluid or oil. (My 914 lubricates the left
gear leg and belly well when it sits quite a while and is nasty, so I clean
it up.) Flip up my wheel ts and look over my pads, brake lines, bearings
and service the tires. I roll the plane fore and aft and check my bearings
are not spinning on the axle. (Customers fly my planes and it gets hard use
at times.)
At 100 hours or annual, I fly the aircraft and write down everything for the
squawk list that is wrong or questionable. Land and wash the plane and go
over the aircraft and engine Mod/SB/SI list with a fine eye. Pull the cowl
and all the inspection panels off and inspect carefully. Clean the fuel
system, change the expendables (plugs, filters, drain fuel, wings and lube
every MW bearing, check the torque seal on every bolt, pull the wheels,
inspect and repack the wheel bearings while reviewing my personal
manufacturers condition inspection checklist I created for my plane.
My 100 hour inspection info is on my techniques page, feel free to modify it
to your aircrafts particular needs. However, in a second hand aircraft,
your mechanic may have other items he is keen on checking for his go no go
items. Work with your mechanic and set your inspection interval and go no
go wear limits as I have. Everyone's standards are different.. I could
care less about a spar cup being sloppy, but am hard over about stab torque
tube pins allowing the stabs to move independently of each other over 1/4
inch at the TE or with the TE up and the mass balance just touching, I push
up lightly and check if the inner pins allow movement. Cracks should be
investigated always. Scrape away the sides and look at the glass. If it's
OK fine, or fill sand and paint. At 5 years rip out the hoses, replace
wheel bearings, and brake pads, recondition disks, check the calipers for
corrosion of the pucks, etc. Look up your engine, airframe parts and make a
list of everything you are worried about and increase your inspection time
frame if you need to. Then fix it properly. If you fix everything It will
be like flying a new plane every day. If you choose to do the minimum
amount of maintenance, the plane will deliver the minimum. I still haven't
added options/upgrades I have wanted from 8 years ago. It seems working on
clients aircraft defeats my zest for experimentation on my own.
Enjoy your aircraft.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 2:42 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Nose Wheel Bearing
Hi Bud,
Change of topic, I am not a builder but I look closely how things are made,
and I will say I think I could have made a better job of some design
components.
I have 25000 hour and are not going to damage anyone's aeroplane by giving
it a little wiggle, which I have found a number of common wear and tear,
just little things like the wear In the stablator hinges, and plastic cups
on the control arm. seems to wear more on the port side.
Wish some one produced a list of common wear in components one could check.
However I have also noticed on a few planes a small hair line crack some
Europa's have it on both sides and some one only one side, running up from
the corner of the fusalarge of wear the spare slides into the fuselage, I
would say it just a crack in the jell coat and of no structural relevants
caused by flexing of the skin,
Have you come across this before.
Regards
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440521#440521
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
On 13 Apr 2015, at 02:46, Bud Yerly wrote:
> One degree or a bit less is about what the slop in the system gives you no matter
how hard you work at it.
Bud - thanks for that reassurance. I was quite surprised and worried when I discovered
how much the weight of the outriggers affected the previously-crisp up
position of the flaps.
There is one thing in the manual that seems a bit unclear and perhaps you can clarify
it for me. In Annex E it says:
"Check that the bolt through the slot in OR5 is 5mm (3/16) to 7mm (1/4) from the
end of the slot when the outriggers are down.
Which end of the slot should that clearance measurement be taken from? One of the
bolts in my OR5s is about central in the slot (so about 5mm clearance each
side) and the other is quite near the end of the slot (although I cant now remember
_which_ end). Both outriggers are firmly locked down.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | "JonSmith" <jonsmitheuropa(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi Rowland,
It's the forward end of the slot where the gap is important. It's so that on the
ground the flaps can "bounce" up and down due to the natural play in the system
without unlocking the outrigger. If the gap was too small or non existent
then if the flap bounced up when say taxying over a bump then the upward movement
of the flap might unlock the outrigger.
--------
G-TERN
Classic Mono
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440756#440756
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> |
On 13 Apr 2015, at 10:27, JonSmith wrote:
> It's the forward end of the slot where the gap is important. It's so that on
the ground the flaps can "bounce" up and down due to the natural play in the
system without unlocking the outrigger. If the gap was too small or non existent
then if the flap bounced up when say taxying over a bump then the upward movement
of the flap might unlock the outrigger.
Jon - thanks for that info. I have the nasty feeling from memory that the bolt
near the end of the slot is indeed at the forward end. Ill have to check again
when next rigged. If that is the case, I wonder what my options are to correct
it?
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo instalation |
| From: | Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
Yep. Bob Berube first showed me and it is simple. I use 2 in tube cut in
half with a drove lug or post welded on for MW-4 attached. Put 3/32 silico
ne cowl seal in the tube and clamp it on. I prefer this if there is no acc
ess in the aft end.
Bud
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Apr 12=2C 2015 10:18 PM=2C William Daniell
wrote:
Bud
Does this mean that you put a clamp on the main torque tube?
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sun=2C Apr 12=2C 2015 at 9:02 PM=2C Bud Yerly wrote:
> Alan=2C
> Nice clean job.
> I prefer not to run a thin wall one inch tube that far without an idler i
n
> the center. However=2C the pitch system only needs a couple of pounds of
> pressure when out of trim=2C and when the stab is trimmed neutral=2C very
> little pressure is necessary to move the stab. We design our systems for
> the worse case scenario=2C that is=2C full trim up the the max torque of
the
> trim motor and the bending moment of the thin wall tubing has to be capab
le
> of taking the load plus a rather large safety factor (since it is a contr
ol
> system) without bending or flexing. If the trim tube should bend=2C it c
an
> jamb the flight control.
>
> I prefer to put the trim motor where you did=2C but make a 3/2 ratio arm
to
> drive the tube via a tube clamp.
>
> However=2C to keep a short drive tube=2C I would recommend installing the
new
> light weight servos behind the mass balance post using a two inch extensi
on
> from the torque tube arm (there are two holes there anyway to mount .016
> steel arms to). Use a 1/2 inch with .049 wall for the drive tube (like t
he
> aileron tubes). The length of the tube should be about 2 feet.
>
> Regards=2C
> Bud Yerly
>
> *From:* Alain Chabert
> *Sent:* Saturday=2C April 11=2C 2015 1:05 PM
> *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: Europa-List: Autopilot servo instalation
>
> Hello=2C
> Look at the solution I adopted from 330 hours and is much simpler than th
e
> proposed mod.
> Regards
>
> *Alain CHABERT*
>
>
> Le 11/04/2015 18:44=2C William Daniell a =C3=A9crit :
>
> I have seen searching through the list that there are some alternatives
> to the major surgery required for Mod 75 and 76.
>
> For example I saw some correspondence between Raimo and Bob Gowing
> connecting servo to the tail plane torque tube using a bracket. I assume
> that the service is mounted on a fiberglass bracket mounted on the floor
> ....
>
> Could I prevail on anyone who has who has an alternative to the official
> mods and which does not require major surgery send me a pic please.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
>
> *
>
===========
tronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap deflection question |
| From: | Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com> |
Rowland=2C
About centered is what I try for. I'll take it if it is within 3/16 and lo
cks. I'm afraid the droopy leg syndrome was my nemesis. Darn I hate those
legs.
Bud
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Apr 13=2C 2015 5:01 AM=2C Rowland Carson wrote
:
On 13 Apr 2015=2C at 02:46=2C Bud Yerly wrote:
> One degree or a bit less is about what the slop in the system gives you n
o matter how hard you work at it.
Bud - thanks for that reassurance. I was quite surprised and worried when I
discovered how much the weight of the outriggers affected the previously-c
risp =9Cup=9D position of the flaps.
There is one thing in the manual that seems a bit unclear and perhaps you c
an clarify it for me. In Annex E it says:
"Check that the bolt through the slot in OR5 is 5mm (3/16=9D) to 7mm
(1/4=9D) from the end of the slot when the outriggers are down.
=9D
Which end of the slot should that clearance measurement be taken from? One
of the bolts in my OR5s is about central in the slot (so about 5mm clearanc
e each side) and the other is quite near the end of the slot (although I ca
n=99t now remember _which_ end). Both outriggers are firmly locked do
wn.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype=2C Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo instalation |
Bud, Will, I have attached a couple of drawings and a picture of the UK
mod application for the scheme that Bud described FYI
Nigel
On 13/04/2015 20:39, Bud Yerly wrote:
> Yep. Bob Berube first showed me and it is simple. I use 2 in tube
> cut in half with a drove lug or post welded on for MW-4 attached. Put
> 3/32 silicone cowl seal in the tube and clamp it on. I prefer this if
> there is no access in the aft end.
>
> Bud
>
> /Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID/
> On Apr 12, 2015 10:18 PM, William Daniell
> wrote:
> Bud
> Does this mean that you put a clamp on the main torque tube?
> Will
>
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
> On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 9:02 PM, Bud Yerly > wrote:
>
> Alan,
> Nice clean job.
> I prefer not to run a thin wall one inch tube that far without an
> idler in the center. However, the pitch system only needs a
> couple of pounds of pressure when out of trim, and when the stab
> is trimmed neutral, very little pressure is necessary to move the
> stab. We design our systems for the worse case scenario, that is,
> full trim up the the max torque of the trim motor and the bending
> moment of the thin wall tubing has to be capable of taking the
> load plus a rather large safety factor (since it is a control
> system) without bending or flexing. If the trim tube should bend,
> it can jamb the flight control.
> I prefer to put the trim motor where you did, but make a 3/2 ratio
> arm to drive the tube via a tube clamp.
> However, to keep a short drive tube, I would recommend installing
> the new light weight servos behind the mass balance post using a
> two inch extension from the torque tube arm (there are two holes
> there anyway to mount .016 steel arms to). Use a 1/2 inch with
> .049 wall for the drive tube (like the aileron tubes). The length
> of the tube should be about 2 feet.
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
> *From:* Alain Chabert
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 11, 2015 1:05 PM
> *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: Europa-List: Autopilot servo instalation
> Hello,
> Look at the solution I adopted from 330 hours and is much simpler
> than the proposed mod.
> Regards
>
> *Alain CHABERT*
>
>
February 24, 2015 - April 14, 2015
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-mj