Europa-Archive.digest.vol-nb

October 17, 2016 - December 25, 2016



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________________________________________________________________________________
From: Graeme Hart <graeme.hart(at)onecoolkat.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Subject: Re: Trim Tab Aerodynamic Filling
Thanks Nigel I will get it inspected before covering it up. I will also take pictures. I am in New Zealand so there is no formal inspection required until the build is finished. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Whoops - loss of flap pin
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Graeme, many thanks for sharing this. Although mine is an XS, I will check the pins thoroughly more often since I trailer my Europa to the airfield and so have access to them. Regards Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461371#461371 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Subject: Callisto Talk - White Waltham - on the 24th
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Apologies to anybody that doesn't live in the South of England as this won't be of any interest. I am giving a talk on the development of the "Callisto". https://www.flickr.com/photos/jlt_egcc74/28854313663/in/photolist-pyBgiA-p3KZq4-p1MNbQ-LVwvBG-KXKUbB-LUHVMD/ There will be a "picture rich" presentation and I'll take loads of mould parts along. The evening should appeal to anyone that has toyed with the idea of customising his plane, or is curious to know how composite parts are made. When: next Monday 24th October - 19.30 Where: "The JOYSTICK CLUB" West London Aero Club White Waltham Airfield Maidenhead SL6 3NJ Web: wlac.co.uk <http://wlac.co.uk> Mike Clews has arranged this and has extended the invitation to all Europa owners/builders that can make it. Food will be available from 1800 from the bar, with aviation videos running until 19.30 when meeting proper starts. There's no charge and you don't need to book. Nigel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Subject: Re: Whoops - loss of flap pin
Graeme, I fail to see how there is any turning moment on the flap drive pin. Both the flap and the flap cross tube pivot around a common axis. However, because of the wings dihedral, if the floating bearing in the end of the flap cross tube is seized or very tight, this may possibly induce some turning moment especially if the bearing surface of the pin inside the bearing was not lubricated. Personally, I hope there is no knee jerk reaction to this failure resulting in a mandatory mod. My flap drive pins were reduxed in and if the problem I had getting my rear wing pins out for that mod are any example, there is no way my flap drive pins are ever going to back out of their own accord. Best Regards Kingsley in Oz Sent from my iPhone > On 17 Oct. 2016, at 5:28 am, graeme bird wrote: > > > it didn't shear off. As the flap moves through an angle there is a turning moment on this one. This is not true of the other pins. The rear wing pin has a nut on the back and a pin through it. I haven't checked starboard flap pin yet. It maybe that the turning tends to tighten that side and loosen the Port. And it maybe that due to alignment perhaps there was some pressure on it. > I can only assume that in this case redux was omitted or sparse. I cant recall if the socket it goes is a bearing and whether lubrication should have been regularly applied. The other pins are greased. > > -------- > Graeme Bird > G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, > 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total > g(at)gdbmk.co.uk > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461350#461350 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Mono Brake Disc
From: David Watts <dg.watts(at)talktalk.net>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Hi Graham, When I spoke to you at Gloucester, you said that you had a great collection of bits, some of which are available, so I was just wondering if you had a Classic Mono Brake Disc amongst those bits. I am not desperate for it, but I am aware that after 2,300 hours mine is starting get to a bit thinner and the factory don't have any stock of them. Dave Watts ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Callisto Talk - White Waltham - on the 24th
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Hi Nigel. Frank Xuereb here. Could you please pm me your email address as I have something I'd like your view on please Many thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461380#461380 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Callisto Talk - White Waltham - on the 24th
From: "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Pm'd On 17/10/2016 14:30, spcialeffects wrote: > > Hi Nigel. Frank Xuereb here. Could you please pm me your email address as I have something I'd like your view on please > > Many thanks > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461380#461380 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Whoops - loss of flap pin
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
I can now confirm it was a build issue and not a design problem. The starboard pin was fully in and had not moved, but not glued in. I shall also be checking these regularly now and will also keeping lubricated along with the bearing. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461390#461390 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mono Brake Disc
From: David Watts <dg.watts(at)talktalk.net>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Sorry all, I didn't mean to send this to the forum Dave Watts > On 17 Oct 2016, at 13:07, David Watts wrote: > > > Hi Graham, > > When I spoke to you at Gloucester, you said that you had a great collection of bits, some of which are available, so I was just wondering if you had a Classic Mono Brake Disc amongst those bits. > > I am not desperate for it, but I am aware that after 2,300 hours mine is starting get to a bit thinner and the factory don't have any stock of them. > > Dave Watts > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Callisto Talk - White Waltham - on the 24th
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Thanks Nigel Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461392#461392 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Gold Rush N128LJ For Sale
Date: Oct 17, 2016
Hello Europa Fans, Some of you might remember about 5 years back we attempted to sell Gold Rush. When it looked like we would have to give it a way and after a move to Florida I decided to embrace her again and invest in a brand new 912ULS. Ever since I have had a blast flying throughout the state putting 150 plus hours on the new engine & Gold Rush. We=99re now living at Leeward Air Ranch and are looking to move up to a 4 place if possible. Lots of grand kids to pick up all the time. So I thought I should let the group know that Europa N128LJ is for sale. She only has 455 hours TTAF. The new 912ULS installed in 2013 by Bud Yearly only has 152 hours on it. This plane has been very well maintained and is in fly away condition! In 2014 she won an outstanding home built award at Sun-N-Fun! She has a Sensenich carbon fiber prop, and is a day night VFR, 130 KTS flyer. She cruises around 127 KTS at 5200 RPM at 5GPH 93 octane. She is registered as experimental NOT Light Sport. The panel has AV-Map connected to a Trio auto pilot. Garmin transponder with an I-Con radio intercom and more. We=99re asking only 52K as we we want to move it. I can send pictures and any info if you want to contact me off list. Please no tire kickers ;-) Jeff Roberts N128LJ Gold Rush. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul & Vanessa Munford" <pmdental(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Mods ???
Date: Oct 18, 2016
Having recently completed my Europa (NG) to my inspectors satisfaction I find the LAA having issues with some of my work ??? which may have to be considered as 'mods'? These are....1) the installation of the 'europa supplied' fuel guage & sender 2) the installation of wingtip lights (Whelan nav/strobe) 3) the installation of Dynon Efis/AOA pitot to act as stall warner 4) the use of 'Colorol' paint applied with a roller as per the article published by the LAA If anyone has a 'G' reg Europa with any of these 'mods' flying I would be grateful for any details to pass on to the LAA & get my 'permit !!!??? Thanks for your help once again. Paul Munford kit 625 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mods ???
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Oct 18, 2016
I have wing tip strobes - airworld uk types. but I guess it depends where the box is and how its mounted and wired in. And also the airworld Europa fuel sender and gauge. I recall that struggle trying to get the variations and mods through at the end of the build. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461433#461433 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 19, 2016
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/16
Paint....Airworthiness......Fuel Gauge......Airworthiness. You guys have to hurry up & go Experimental. Mind you, I thought that 20 years ago. On Wednesday, 19 October 2016, Europa-List Digest Server < europa-list(at)matronics.com> wrote: > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete Europa-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the Europa-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style > 82701&View=html&Chapter 16-10-18&Archive=Europa > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style > 82701&View=txt&Chapter 16-10-18&Archive=Europa > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Europa-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Tue 10/18/16: 2 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 11:28 AM - Mods ??? (Paul & Vanessa Munford) > 2. 02:12 PM - Re: Mods ??? (graeme bird) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Paul & Vanessa Munford" <pmdental(at)btinternet.com <javascript:;>> > Subject: Europa-List: Mods ??? > > Having recently completed my Europa (NG) to my inspectors satisfaction I > find the LAA having issues with some of my work ??? which may have to be > considered as 'mods'? > These are....1) the installation of the 'europa supplied' fuel guage & > sender > 2) the installation of wingtip lights (Whelan > nav/strobe) > 3) the installation of Dynon Efis/AOA pitot to act > as stall warner > 4) the use of 'Colorol' paint applied with a roller > as per the article published by the LAA > If anyone has a 'G' reg Europa with any of these 'mods' flying I would > be grateful for any details to pass on to the LAA & get my 'permit > !!!??? > Thanks for your help once again. Paul Munford kit 625 > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mods ??? > From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk <javascript:;>> > > > I have wing tip strobes - airworld uk types. but I guess it depends where > the box > is and how its mounted and wired in. > And also the airworld Europa fuel sender and gauge. > I recall that struggle trying to get the variations and mods through at > the end > of the build. > > -------- > Graeme Bird > G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 > axis > ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, > 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total > g(at)gdbmk.co.uk > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461433#461433 > > -- Sent from Gmail Mobile ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk>
Subject: Mods ???
Date: Oct 19, 2016
Hi Paul, Go to the LAA website and look up the Standard Mods for the Europa. You will see that there is a standard mod for the Welan strobes and the fuel contents system. Your installation may be different but it gives you a starting point. The Europa Club website also has mod information and there is a list of Factory mods on the Europa website. The LAA inspector is checking that you have built the aircraft in accordance with the build manual. He cannot approve variations (Mods) to the approved build specification. Not much help to you now but it saves delay at the end of the build if you get mod approval for design changes as you go along, rather than waiting until submission of the final paperwork. Regards Brian Davies From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul & Vanessa Munford Sent: 18 October 2016 19:28 Subject: Europa-List: Mods ??? Having recently completed my Europa (NG) to my inspectors satisfaction I find the LAA having issues with some of my work ??? which may have to be considered as 'mods'? These are....1) the installation of the 'europa supplied' fuel guage & sender 2) the installation of wingtip lights (Whelan nav/strobe) 3) the installation of Dynon Efis/AOA pitot to act as stall warner 4) the use of 'Colorol' paint applied with a roller as per the article published by the LAA If anyone has a 'G' reg Europa with any of these 'mods' flying I would be grateful for any details to pass on to the LAA & get my 'permit !!!??? Thanks for your help once again. Paul Munford kit 625 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New hybrid-system for Rotax 912/914
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Oct 19, 2016
I find this http://axteraerospace.com/projects/ very interesting to improve especially safety in case of an engine failure. It has a clutch to decouple the engine from the propeller. On the downside is certainly the mass of 40 kg including batteries (so might only be interesting for those with the 1450 lbs MTOM) and the costs of 18700 EUR. But worth following the progress from my point of view. Regards Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461445#461445 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: XS parts & avionics
Having bought a complete kit to get the bits I need for my repair (essentially the cockpit module and front half of fuselage bottom) I find myself with lots of extras. I have also decided to upgrade my panel at the same time so have several spare working avionics bits. I am prepared to part with the following (lying in UK) for any half sensible offer: top fuselage, rear half bottom fuselage, tail planes, doors, windscreen fuel tank firewall forward kit for 912S speed kit for trike ***** Blue Mountain EFIS(a great piece of kit, with terrain data, synthetic vision, etc but no longer supported) Trio EZ simgle axis autopilot + Navaid actuator Garmin GTS 328 mode S transponder FS 450 fuel flow meter Winter 3" ASI MGL digital altimeter, 3" Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Subject: Landing a Europa
Date: Oct 22, 2016
Hi folks, My daughter videoed me landing my Europa and I ran it though Premiere Elements and uploaded to You Tube. https://youtu.be/I_OWsld__i0 Regards, Martin Tuck Europa N152MT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wladimir Kummer <wladimirkummer(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump / Filter question
Date: Oct 23, 2016
Hello all, Where is the most usual / most favorable location of the FACET fuel pump? Where do you put the filters? Im planning the route of fuel lines from the tank to firewall. Thanks in advance Wladimir ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump / Filter question
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 23, 2016
On 2016-10-23, at 12:16, Wladimir Kummer wrote: > Where is the most usual / most favorable location of the FACET fuel pump? Where do you put the filters? Im planning the route of fuel lines from the tank to firewall. Wladimir - page 6-1 of the Europa XS firewall-forward manual for the Rotax 912 says: "The electric pump SS502 (stamped 40106 on one of the mounting flanges) is to be mounted in the port underfloor chamber situated in the baggage bay floor." My fuel system is slightly non-standard but you can see how and where I mounted my fuel pump in photos on these pages of my build journal: http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/aviation/europa_435/gascolator_to_pump.php http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/aviation/europa_435/pump_to_sender.php http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/aviation/europa_435/gascolator_inlet_pipe.php http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/aviation/europa_435/fuel_system_wiring.php Hope this is of some help. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump / Filter question
From: "SPURPURA" <SPURPURA(at)aol.com>
Date: Oct 24, 2016
Looking at your photos,the fuel pipe may be in the way of the flap drive. -------- I'D RATHER HAVE A BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME THAN A FRONTAL LABOTAMY. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461560#461560 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 24, 2016
Subject: Spinner - cowling gap
Despite following the instructions carefully when fitting the engine cowling I find that there is 4mm difference in the gap between the left and right sides of spinner base and the cowling. Any advice on this? thanks in advance Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Spinner - cowling gap
Date: Oct 24, 2016
what=99s Bondo for? > On Oct 24, 2016, at 9:19 AM, William Daniell wrote: > > Despite following the instructions carefully when fitting the engine cowling I find that there is 4mm difference in the gap between the left and right sides of spinner base and the cowling. > > Any advice on this? > > thanks in advance > > Will > > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 24, 2016
Subject: Re: Spinner - cowling gap
Haha good point Fred William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 2:52 PM, Fred Klein wrote: > what=99s Bondo for? > > On Oct 24, 2016, at 9:19 AM, William Daniell > wrote: > > Despite following the instructions carefully when fitting the engine > cowling I find that there is 4mm difference in the gap between the left > and right sides of spinner base and the cowling. > > Any advice on this? > > thanks in advance > > Will > > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Yet another Smartphone app for Aviation
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 25, 2016
Hi All, Kerry at Lockwood has finally rebuild my 912s and I hope to get down to Bud's place to remount the engine and get back to flying within the next few months! In the mean time, I am still fiddling with code. First, let me note that the bug which prevented all barometer apps (think avAltimeter) from working in iOS 10 is now resolved in the newly released iOS 10.1. iOS 10.1 now prevents many apps from displaying landscape mode properly, but at least the altimeter is working! My new app is called Aviation Sunset Calculator in the App Store (on your device it will be "Civil Twilight" (it's shorter for display!)). This app provides all three night and day times required by FARs for night operation. What makes this app unique among the sunset apps already out there is that I perform all the celestial mechanics calculations inside the phone/iPad. Other apps use the internet to call out to the Naval Observatory or some other time server. Other useful features in this app include an internal database of all aerodromes with runways, worldwide, and the ability to change the the date forwards or backwards in time. If you do have an internet connection, you can even find the twilight times for any valid street address on earth. So, for example, you can use this app while airborne to find the expected twilight times at your destination. Since the FAA makes life interesting with regulations mandating three different times to reference for night operations, I also include the relevant FARs in the app's Help pages. The web page for this app is http://www.aviametrix.com/sunset/ The web page for the altimeter app is http://www.aviametrix.com The world-wide METAR app is at http://www.aviametrix.com/metar/avwx.html -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461603#461603 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yet another Smartphone app for Aviation
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 25, 2016
On 2016-10-25, at 15:20, rampil wrote: > My new app is called Aviation Sunset Calculator in the App Store > I perform all the celestial mechanics > calculations inside the phone/iPad Ira - thanks for producing another handy app. You have a nice clean interface and show the essential info at a glance. You say "This app provides all three night and day times required by FARs but I can only see 2 sets at present (Std & Civ). As, in UK, Im not inside FAA jurisdiction maybe it leaves out one? When I read that you determine the answers by computation rather than lookup, I wondered if you were using the code published by Jeffrey Sax based on work by Jean Meeus, but I see from the credits that its a different (public-domain) source. I bought Jeans book Astronomical Algorithms over 20 years ago, with the companion disc (available at the time on both 3.5 and 5.25 discs!) that had source code written by Jeffrey Sax in Turbo Pascal, QuickBasic and C. The disc was IBM-PC formatted but I was able to read and use the C listings on my Mac LC475. I had a licence to use the code in non-commercial distributions and I got as far as getting the Calendar (sun & moon rise & set) program running on a glass teletype interface using Think C. However, I never did get around to putting a proper GUI on the front of it - should have been building the aeroplane anyway instead of fiddling with code! Anyway, your app does the job nicely and I applaud your work in developing it. If youre at a loose end you might consider adding nautical & astronomical twilight :-) in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yet another Smartphone app for Aviation
From: "rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com" <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 26, 2016
On 2016-10-25, at 15:20, rampil wrote: > My new app is called Aviation Sunset Calculator Ira - just had a thought for a useful addition - on the home screen, it would be helpful to know what the location lat/lon was based on (current GPS, street address, airfield). I wonder if it would be possible to add that info? in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Contact
Date: Oct 26, 2016
Could Brian Rickard contact me regarding Schicke Mod? Regards Dave Park ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Yet another Smartphone app for Aviation
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 26, 2016
Hi Rowland! The FAA complicates things a bit with regard to the night times. Here are the three relevant times in order of daily occurrence: Sunset (standard) - for 14 CFR 91.209 aircraft safety lights Civil Twilight (center of solar disc 6 below horizon) for 14CFR 1.1 logging night flight experience Sunset (standard) Plus 1 hour - for 14 CFR 61.57 for passenger carrying currency in night landings and takeoffs As you can see, regular sunset (with one hour plus) is used twice. The GPS coordinates for the current calculations are easy to overlook until you get used to the display, but look under the Change Location button. I should take a peek at amending the location field to include the aerodrome identifier or the town as suitable, but the GPS should always be there. The calculation for nautical twilight is a simple add-on, and while it may add clutter to the display, I held off because I have no clue as to how to acquaint the boating class with the app. Pilots are hard enough ;) Do know that I very much appreciate the feedback and I would like to know if UK and EU pilots might benefit from other time points! Regards, -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461647#461647 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Schicke Regulator and Over Voltage Wiring.
Date: Oct 27, 2016
I am in process of planning the wiring of the Schicke Regulator, Capacitor, Schicke Voltage Regulator, to a EarthX Battery. I would like an electronics expert to look over my ideas. I can forward all drawing to anyone who responds. I believe Mike Gregory has some experience in this field, I would be pleased to hear from you Mike? Regards Dave G-LDVO ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Schicke Regulator and Over Voltage Wiring.
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 27, 2016
You might consider posting your request on the AeroElectric forum. Personally, I have no experience with the schicke components. http://forums.matronics.com -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461665#461665 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Schicke Regulator and Over Voltage Wiring.
From: david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com>
Date: Oct 27, 2016
Wilkins, thanks Ira. Will do that as well Regards Dave Park > On 27 Oct 2016, at 19:16, rampil wrote: > > > You might consider posting your request on the AeroElectric forum. > Personally, I have no experience with the schicke components. > > http://forums.matronics.com > > -------- > Ira N224XS > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461665#461665 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Schicke Regulator and Over Voltage Wiring.
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Oct 28, 2016
Dave, I'd be happy to have a look. Send the drawing to butcher43(at)att.net. Jim Butcher Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461679#461679 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Schicke Regulator and Over Voltage Wiring.
From: GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Date: Oct 28, 2016
/Le 27/10/2016 18:32, david park a crit :// / > I am in process of planning the wiring of the > Schicke Regulator, Capacitor, Schicke Voltage Regulator, to a EarthX > Battery./ David, We installed a Schicke GS4 on our Rotax 914 project about 13 years ago and have been very happy with it. Wiring based on Aeroelectric Z16 figure, with dual batteries. Hawker SBS 8 AGM batteries, no experience with lithium batteries and no intention of changing technology. > /I would like an electronics expert to look over my ideas./ As suggested, it might be interesting to post on the Aeroelectric List. Be prepared to receive comments on your ideas, good or not so good ;-) -- Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr http://lapierre.skunkworks.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com" <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: door hinge screw query
Date: Oct 31, 2016
Im in process of fitting the door hinges. I find that after I have counterbored the outer face of the door hinge tangs to hide the nuts, the ends of the screws at the thinner edges of the tangs are just proud of the surface. The nuts on those screws are only just in safety (2 threads visible). If I were to shorten the screws, Id need to make the counterbore deeper to keep the nut in safety. But already, the thickness of tang remaining at the bottom of the counterbore seems (to me) surprisingly thin. I wondered if I had countersunk the hinges too much, thus allowing the screws to protrude more, but I dont think so. The MS24693-S272 screws are as flush as I can make them with the inner surface of the hinge leaf, and a trial fit of the MS525-10R10 screw in the opposing hole shows that, if anything, the CSK screw could be even more sunk in order to allow the hinge to close with the leaves parallel. However, I dont feel happy about enlarging the hole in the hinge any more, nor about making the screw protrusion greater. So, has anyone else had this issue and what did they do about the cosmetic aspect of the protruding screw? If I grind off a little to bring it flush with the surface, it will no longer have 2 full threads visible beyond the nut to make it in safety. (But of course that will get potted in Redux/flox later and so be invisible to the inspector :-) ) If I leave it as is, there will be an ugly bump of filler. Is there something clever I havent thought of? in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: door hinge screw query
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Nov 01, 2016
Rowland, The manual 35_CBM - 35 FITTING DOORS from the Europa website, Fig 5 shows the intended design condition of the door hinge installation. The screws into the upper hinge leaf are shown countersunk with a knife-edge condition (poor practice #1), the figure is probably not to scale but there looks to be significant material for the counter-bore, a washer and the nut. It shows an almost flush screw (i.e. less than 1 complete thread as normally required) (poor practice #2). I note the lower hinge leaf has a protruding head fasteners with integral washer.(AN525-10R10) and a non counter-bored retaining nut (good practice #1). The critical failure mode as drawn is a head-side pull through (due to tension and prying) of the upper screw. For high time aircraft this may be surpassed by a tensile failure initiated by a fatigue crack between the countersinks. Hence l think you could increase the depth of the counter-bore slightly to ensure one protruding screw thread and a flush OML (outer mould line). Minimise the countersinking. Looking at my own aircraft l found both sides countersunk. This enables a slight over-parallel condition of the hinge leaves - to account for built tolerance (in other words there is no room for the head of the AN525-10R10). This has the slight benefit of ensuring both sides of the hinge flex a similar amount - thereby reducing the likelihood of a fatigue crack on the more flexible side (as drawn). A redesign to today's interpretation of the regulations and compliance standards would require adherence to best practice design principles. This would most likely result in slightly thicker hinges, 130 deg countersinks with corresponding shallow head fasteners, a third fastener on each hinge (offset centreline to alleviate the prying action). JW -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461787#461787 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List 2016 Fund Raiser During
November! Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the Email List and Fourm Services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members (you) that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site http://forums.matronics.com , Wiki site http://wiki.matronics.com , or other related pages such as the List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search , List Browse http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse , etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. YOUR personal Contribution counts! This year we have a really HUGE and TERRIFIC line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. In fact, there are over 24 different gifts to choose from! There's something for everyone, to be sure. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on the Matronics Lists and they have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous members include: Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com Corbin Glowacki of My Pilot Store http://www.mypilotstore.com George Race of Race Consulting http://www.mrrace.com/ Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP http://www.homebuilthelp.com These are very generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and excellent aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Andy, Bob, Corbin, George, and Jon their generous support of the Lists again this year!! Please make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure web site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers, There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums. The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November Fund Raiser. Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Nov 04, 2016
Hello all, I replaced the MT4 rubber mounts on my XS Monowheel last January. Now I see that the engine is sagging (2 degree pitch down measured at the propeller flange). This clearly comes from the new rubber mounts (purchased from Europa) which are softer than the originals (supplied with the kit back in 1999) . Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Is anyone aware of a modification regarding the characteristics and/or installation of the rubber mounts between 1999 and now ? Remi Guerner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462009#462009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: David Watts <dg.watts(at)talktalk.net>
Date: Nov 04, 2016
Hi Remi, I replaced the rubber mounts on my Classic Mono in May after 2,200 hours and have now put 100 hours on these new rubbers and I am pleased to say that there is no sagging evident at all so far. Incidentally, I used new rubber mounts bought from Europa a few weeks before. Dave Watts G-BXDY > On 4 Nov 2016, at 20:52, Remi Guerner wrote: > > > Hello all, > I replaced the MT4 rubber mounts on my XS Monowheel last January. Now I see that the engine is sagging (2 degree pitch down measured at the propeller flange). This clearly comes from the new rubber mounts (purchased from Europa) which are softer than the originals (supplied with the kit back in 1999) . Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Is anyone aware of a modification regarding the characteristics and/or installation of the rubber mounts between 1999 and now ? > > Remi Guerner > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462009#462009 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
Today! Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: door hinge screw query
Date: Nov 06, 2016
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Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Nov 06, 2016
Thanks Dave for the information. I investigated further and found there were a change in 2003 regarding the spacers and bolts length. There should be some details about that in Factory Tech Talk number 28 and 29 (see attached index) . I searched for those issues on both Europa Aircraft and The Europa club websites and could not find them. Could any one provide the relevant pages from those issues of Tech Talk? Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462100#462100 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/tech_talk_index_393.png ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Alfred Buess" <ykibuess(at)bluewin.ch>
Date: Nov 06, 2016
Bonjour Rmi Attached are the relevant pages of Tech Talk 28 and 29. Meilleures salutations, Alfred Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462101#462101 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/techtalk_198.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kingsley Hurst" <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
Date: Nov 06, 2016
Hello Remi, The only reason the Engine Mount Spacers were mentioned in two Tech Talks was because of an error in Issue 28 I have attached copies of both so you can see the full story for yourself. Regards Kingsley in Oz. (Met you at Sywell in May or June 2014) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: door hinge screw query
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Nov 06, 2016
A gust caught the canopy as l was refuelling yesterday, l use a bungee with rubber hooks to secure the Mr Funnel, these are hooked around the open door moulding close to the hinge. The wind popped the oleo strut (weak ball-ends) causing it to slam. Not a problem normally but the rubber hooks jammed causing some big loads at the hinge. The upper hinge leaf is bent but the heads of the fasteners did not pull through. Dismantling revealed the knife-edge countersink, which is so deep the hole is opened up to well beyond a 'fit' with the screws. Repair is easy, but this incident does underline how marginal the hinges are even when built according to the manual. Correction: Earlier l stated the lower screws on my aircraft were countersunk - they are not, being standard MS21042-3. Memory playing tricks. JW -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462121#462121 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers, There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums. The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November Fund Raiser. Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: door hinge screw query
Date: Nov 07, 2016
> On Nov 6, 2016, at 11:35 PM, John Wighton wrote: > > The upper hinge leaf is bent but the heads of the fasteners did not pull through. Dismantling revealed the knife-edge countersink, which is so deep the hole is opened up to well beyond a 'fit' with the screws. > > Repair is easy, but this incident does underline how marginal the hinges are even when built according to the manual. John=85if memory serves, the hinge/door tang is designed as a failure point in order to ensure that the departure of an un-secured door does not inflict structural damage on the fuselage=85F. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: door hinge screw query
Date: Nov 07, 2016
let=99s try this again > On Nov 6, 2016, at 11:35 PM, John Wighton > wrote: > > The upper hinge leaf is bent but the heads of the fasteners did not pull through. Dismantling revealed the knife-edge countersink, which is so deep the hole is opened up to well beyond a 'fit' with the screws. > > Repair is easy, but this incident does underline how marginal the hinges are even when built according to the manual. Johnif memory serves, the hinge/door tang is designed as a failure point in order to ensure that the departure of an un-secured door does not inflict structural damage on the fuselageF. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl>
Date: Nov 09, 2016
I am rapidly getting to the point where I need to select my propeller to go with a 912ULS engine. Having already decided on an in flight adjustable, the choice seems to come down to the following: Airmaster AP332 with Whirlwind blades and AC200 CS controller. Eur ~6000 Woodcomp SR3000 with CS5 CS controller. Eur 4000 Woodcomp SR3000 with manual controller. Eur 3500 Based on the price I can surmise thet the Airmaster is better, but is it twice as good, and more importantly, is the Woodcomp maybe good enough? Then there is the choice between CS and manual which the Woodcomp offers. Manual is cheaper and as a first timer I want to keep things simple, so that has some appeal. The importer also kindly mentioned that he does not have good experiences with the CS setup, which is either refreshingly homest or an indication of a dud product. So which is it to be? Your opinions and experiences would be highly appreciated! -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Carpenter <kbcarpenter(at)comcast.net>
Date: Nov 09, 2016
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
Happy with Airmaster with Warp Drive blades. Have 660 hours. It is computer controlled with manual override and works well requiring no close attention...that is it is not a complication,just set cruise or climb or takeoff. I damaged a prop blade and was able to get replacement promptly. Sent from my iPad Ken Carpenter > On Nov 9, 2016, at 10:04 AM, jglazener wrote: > > > I am rapidly getting to the point where I need to select my propeller to go with a 912ULS engine. Having already decided on an in flight adjustable, the choice seems to come down to the following: > > Airmaster AP332 with Whirlwind blades and AC200 CS controller. Eur ~6000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with CS5 CS controller. Eur 4000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with manual controller. Eur 3500 > > Based on the price I can surmise thet the Airmaster is better, but is it twice as good, and more importantly, is the Woodcomp maybe good enough? > > Then there is the choice between CS and manual which the Woodcomp offers. Manual is cheaper and as a first timer I want to keep things simple, so that has some appeal. The importer also kindly mentioned that he does not have good experiences with the CS setup, which is either refreshingly homest or an indication of a dud product. > > So which is it to be? Your opinions and experiences would be highly appreciated! > > -------- > Jeroen > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Re: Airmaster or =?UTF-8?Q?Woodcomp=3F?
Jeroen, I do not know of anyone who has done a direct comparison between the Airmaster and the Woodcomp prop in controlled circumstances, although I first became interested in the Woodcomp when at the Europa Fly out to Prague in 2000, two XS 914s took off at the same time. Tom Justic with a Woodcomp prop dramatically out-climbed the Europa company one with an Airmaster - which caught my attention at the time and was instrumental in persuading me to go through the significant hassle of being the first to import one into the UK LAA fleet. I have since come to believe that both are excellent propellers. The latest SR3000 has a totally redesigned hub mechanism which is beautifully robust, and the High twist 'W' blades are particularly efficient. (with my SR300-3W/914/XS/mono I can exceed Vne TAS on the level at 6000ft upwards). I do not think you would go wrong with either propeller, but I would certainly think that the Airmaster is not worth an extra E2000. What I would say is worth it is to have a constant speed controller. The manual might be very false economy. In a slippery plane like a Europa it is very easy to increase speed and RPM, especially if you are in some conflict situation where you are distracted. Overspeeding the engine is not a good thing. In fact a constant speed unit does above all keep things simple - you simply select take off, climb or cruise settings by press of a button, and the controller does the rest, whereas the manual controller needs more thought and pilot input to get things right. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ On 2016-11-09 15:04, jglazener wrote: > > I am rapidly getting to the point where I need to select my propeller to go with a 912ULS engine. Having already decided on an in flight adjustable, the choice seems to come down to the following: > > Airmaster AP332 with Whirlwind blades and AC200 CS controller. Eur ~6000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with CS5 CS controller. Eur 4000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with manual controller. Eur 3500 > > Based on the price I can surmise thet the Airmaster is better, but is it twice as good, and more importantly, is the Woodcomp maybe good enough? > > Then there is the choice between CS and manual which the Woodcomp offers. Manual is cheaper and as a first timer I want to keep things simple, so that has some appeal. The importer also kindly mentioned that he does not have good experiences with the CS setup, which is either refreshingly homest or an indication of a dud product. > > So which is it to be? Your opinions and experiences would be highly appreciated! > > -------- > Jeroen > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [1] > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 [2] > Links: ------ [1] http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [2] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 [3] http://www.aeroelectric.com [4] http://www.buildersbooks.com [5] http://www.homebuilthelp.com [6] http://www.mypilotstore.com [7] http://www.mrrace.com [8] http://www.matronics.com/contribution [9] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List [10] http://forums.matronics.com [11] http://wiki.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 09, 2016
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
Jeroen, I am very happy with my Airmaster prop and controller with the Warp Drive blades. Set it for the mode of flight (takeoff, climb or cruise) and it works. I have damaged the blades and the response by Airmaster has been excellent. I can highly recommend them. No experience with Woodcomp so I can=99t comment on them. Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs). Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger(at)mac.com On Nov 9, 2016, at 9:04 AM, jglazener wrote: I am rapidly getting to the point where I need to select my propeller to go with a 912ULS engine. Having already decided on an in flight adjustable, the choice seems to come down to the following: Airmaster AP332 with Whirlwind blades and AC200 CS controller. Eur ~6000 Woodcomp SR3000 with CS5 CS controller. Eur 4000 Woodcomp SR3000 with manual controller. Eur 3500 Based on the price I can surmise thet the Airmaster is better, but is it twice as good, and more importantly, is the Woodcomp maybe good enough? Then there is the choice between CS and manual which the Woodcomp offers. Manual is cheaper and as a first timer I want to keep things simple, so that has some appeal. The importer also kindly mentioned that he does not have good experiences with the CS setup, which is either refreshingly homest or an indication of a dud product. So which is it to be? Your opinions and experiences would be highly appreciated! -------- Jeroen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2016
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
Having fitted dozens of Airmaster's, and just recently fitted a Woodcomp there is no comparison, Airmaster is more than twice as good [ mechanically] -----Original Message----- From: jglazener <j.glazener(at)planet.nl> Sent: Wed, 9 Nov 2016 15:35 Subject: Europa-List: Airmaster or Woodcomp? I am rapidly getting to the point where I need to select my propeller to go with a 912ULS engine. Having already decided on an in flight adjustable, the choice seems to come down to the following: Airmaster AP332 with Whirlwind blades and AC200 CS controller. Eur ~6000 Woodcomp SR3000 with CS5 CS controller. Eur 4000 Woodcomp SR3000 with manual controller. Eur 3500 Based on the price I can surmise thet the Airmaster is better, but is it twice as good, and more importantly, is the Woodcomp maybe good enough? Then there is the choice between CS and manual which the Woodcomp offers. Manual is cheaper and as a first timer I want to keep things simple, so that has some appeal. The importer also kindly mentioned that he does not have good experiences with the CS setup, which is either refreshingly homest or an indication of a dud product. So which is it to be? Your opinions and experiences would be highly appreciated! -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Nov 09, 2016
Very pleased with my Woodcomp 3000/w and smart controller. I would just say that if you ding a blade you have to replace the lot. Ok if it's insurance. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462242#462242 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Re: Airmaster or =?UTF-8?Q?Woodcomp=3F?
Nev, I guess that is not the new (this summer) design of SR3000, which has done away with cogs and is an impressive bit of kit. Regards, David On 2016-11-09 16:30, Neville Eyre wrote: > Having fitted dozens of Airmaster's, and just recently fitted a Woodcomp there is no comparison, Airmaster is more than twice as good [ mechanically] > > -----Original Message----- > From: jglazener <j.glazener(at)planet.nl> > To: europa-list > Sent: Wed, 9 Nov 2016 15:35 > Subject: Europa-List: Airmaster or Woodcomp? > > > I am rapidly getting to the point where I need to select my propeller to go with a 912ULS engine. Having already decided on an in flight adjustable, the choice seems to come down to the following: > > Airmaster AP332 with Whirlwind blades and AC200 CS controller. Eur ~6000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with CS5 CS controller. Eur 4000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with manual controller. Eur 3500 > > Based on the price I can surmise thet the Airmaster is better, but is it twice as good, and more importantly, is the Woodcomp maybe good enough? > > Then there is the choice between CS and manual which the Woodcomp offers. Manual is cheaper and as a first timer I want to keep things simple, so that has some appeal. The importer also kindly mentioned that he does not have good experiences with the CS setup, which is either refreshingly homest or an indication of a dud product. > > So which is it to be? Your opinions and experiences would be highly appreciated! > > -------- > Jeroen > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [1] > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 [2] Links: ------ [1] http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [2] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com>
Date: Nov 09, 2016
David Your email corrupt?? Dave Dave Park > On 9 Nov 2016, at 18:13, davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote: > >

      > 

      > 
      > 
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Re: Airmaster or =?UTF-8?Q?Woodcomp=3F?
Nev, I guess you are talking about the original SR3000 which had lots of cogs in it, not the new, completely different (as of this summer) design, which looks cogless and very impressive Nev, I guess you are talking about the original SR3000 design, which had lots of cogs in it, not the totally redesigned one(as from this summer) which has no cogs and looks very impressive. Regards, David Joyce PS. Sorry my previous attempt at tjis came out as garbage! On 2016-11-09 16:30, Neville Eyre wrote: > Having fitted dozens of Airmaster's, and just recently fitted a Woodcomp there is no comparison, Airmaster is more than twice as good [ mechanically] > > -----Original Message----- > From: jglazener <j.glazener(at)planet.nl> > To: europa-list > Sent: Wed, 9 Nov 2016 15:35 > Subject: Europa-List: Airmaster or Woodcomp? > > > I am rapidly getting to the point where I need to select my propeller to go with a 912ULS engine. Having already decided on an in flight adjustable, the choice seems to come down to the following: > > Airmaster AP332 with Whirlwind blades and AC200 CS controller. Eur ~6000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with CS5 CS controller. Eur 4000 > > Woodcomp SR3000 with manual controller. Eur 3500 > > Based on the price I can surmise thet the Airmaster is better, but is it twice as good, and more importantly, is the Woodcomp maybe good enough? > > Then there is the choice between CS and manual which the Woodcomp offers. Manual is cheaper and as a first timer I want to keep things simple, so that has some appeal. The importer also kindly mentioned that he does not have good experiences with the CS setup, which is either refreshingly homest or an indication of a dud product. > > So which is it to be? Your opinions and experiences would be highly appreciated! > > -------- > Jeroen > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [1] > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 [2] Links: ------ [1] http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [2] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462236#462236 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 09, 2016
Hi David. This re-design is good news as i'll be ordering my Woodcomp early next year from Kevin Dilks. Have they done anything with the motor as i have heard of these running away to either fully fine or fully course. Frank X- kit 165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462246#462246 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button...
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-) I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites. If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator [Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages, when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum. The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.] ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Nov 09, 2016
I'm happy with the Airmaster CS with Warp Drive blades. This combinations seems to be very rugged. As some might remember I had cooling issues in high temperatures on the ground (XS with Rotax 914) which I got under control in the meantime by simple measures. What I can definitely say is, that Martin from Airmaster is very helpful and answers any questions rapidly. The manuals are online in English and easy to understand. Regards Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462325#462325 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2016
From: houlihan tim <houlihan(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
I have a Woodcomp SR2000 fitted for about ten years and I am very happy with it, During a visit to the Woodcomp factory near Prague earlier this year I saw the latest SR3000 hub and it looked much simpler and more robust than my hub so constant developments have been carried out . I would have no hesitation in recommending it , Of course I appreciate that the Airmaster is a well made propeller but I have no personal knowledge or experience of this prop and I am sure it works well but it is significantly more expensive Tim H > > On 09 November 2016 at 20:58 Roland wrote: > > > > I'm happy with the Airmaster CS with Warp Drive blades. This combinations > seems to be very rugged. > > As some might remember I had cooling issues in high temperatures on the > ground (XS with Rotax 914) which I got under control in the meantime by simple > measures. > > What I can definitely say is, that Martin from Airmaster is very helpful > and answers any questions rapidly. The manuals are online in English and easy > to understand. > > Regards > Roland > PH-ZTI > XS TG 914 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462325#462325 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Re: Airmaster or =?UTF-8?Q?Woodcomp=3F?
Frank, I think it is a complete redesign, including thepitch change stop system, which is now apparently much simpler to adjust. But if you want more detail youcould probably get it from Kevin Dilks. Regards, David On 2016-11-09 19:45, spcialeffects wrote: > > Hi David. This re-design is good news as i'll be ordering my Woodcomp early next year from Kevin Dilks. Have they done anything with the motor as i have heard of these running away to either fully fine or fully course. > > Frank X- kit 165 > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462246#462246 [1] > Links: ------ [1] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462246#462246 [2] http://www.aeroelectric.com [3] http://www.buildersbooks.com [4] http://www.homebuilthelp.com [5] http://www.mypilotstore.com [6] http://www.mrrace.com [7] http://www.matronics.com/contribution [8] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List [9] http://forums.matronics.com [10] http://wiki.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What the..... Trim Tab built upside down - Seriously
!!
From: "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl>
Date: Nov 10, 2016
Have you considered simply getting new ones? In the old days the tabs could only be made as part of the complete stabiliser, but Europa now supply these parts as completed items as part of their Next Gen redesign. I have seen these NG parts, they look very good , and it could not only save you a lot of stress but also the risk that you end up with a sub-standard part. -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462331#462331 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: R Trim Tab - Spare one + otrher items
Having bought a complete kit to yield the front part of a fuselage for my own repair, I still have multiple spare bits to be disposed of at minimal charge, including tail planes and trim tabs. Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ PS Other outstanding items include: Fuel tank; Windscreen; top half of fuselage; Flap actuator (trigear); Trim actuator . Happy to sell for offers in the 10 to 20% list price range Also to give away: Used Mono wheel with good condition tyre & brake system: Tough moulding of bottom front fuselage, which would make ideal basis of a fuselage dolly. On 2016-11-10 15:24, jglazener wrote: > > Have you considered simply getting new ones? In the old days the tabs could only be made as part of the complete stabiliser, but Europa now supply these parts as completed items as part of their Next Gen redesign. I have seen these NG parts, they look very good , and it could not only save you a lot of stress but also the risk that you end up with a sub-standard part. > > -------- > Jeroen > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [1] > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462331#462331 [2] > Links: ------ [1] http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [2] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462331#462331 [3] http://www.aeroelectric.com [4] http://www.buildersbooks.com [5] http://www.homebuilthelp.com [6] http://www.mypilotstore.com [7] http://www.mrrace.com [8] http://www.matronics.com/contribution [9] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List [10] http://forums.matronics.com [11] http://wiki.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl>
Date: Nov 10, 2016
Thanks all of you for your contributions. First conclusion is that everybody is happy with the propeller he has, whichever it is, with the possible exception of Nev. Of course Nev's opinion weighs a little more than that of ordinary mortals, so I will have to figure that into the equation. Still it's reassuring that nobody sees either of these options as an absolute no-go. -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462336#462336 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Nov 11, 2016
Yesterday I started to remove stuff from the engine compartment with the intention of compensating the sagging using washers to shim the engine mounts. What I saw was worse than expected. See attached pictures. Obviously the new rubber mounts are a lot softer than the old ones. I am even wondering if such a configuration is airworthy and I am looking for advice on that point. Now what to do? The best would be to replace the rubber mount by the right ones. I questioned Europa-Swift: they keep saying the supplied rubbers are the same as before, so I do not expect a solution from this side. Buying direct from their supplier: does anyone know the supplier name and part number of those rubber mounts? Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462344#462344 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010380a_596.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010375a_126.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010372a_519.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 11, 2016
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
Remi My kit is from 2003. I will send you a pic later but there are many more threads showing on the bolts than seems to be the case in your foto. this suggests to me that the issue might be that the rubber bushes are simply not compressed enough.... Yours Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Fri, Nov 11, 2016 at 3:40 AM, Remi Guerner wrote: > > Yesterday I started to remove stuff from the engine compartment with the > intention of compensating the sagging using washers to shim the engine > mounts. What I saw was worse than expected. See attached pictures. > Obviously the new rubber mounts are a lot softer than the old ones. I am > even wondering if such a configuration is airworthy and I am looking for > advice on that point. > Now what to do? The best would be to replace the rubber mount by the right > ones. I questioned Europa-Swift: they keep saying the supplied rubbers are > the same as before, so I do not expect a solution from this side. Buying > direct from their supplier: does anyone know the supplier name and part > number of those rubber mounts? > Remi > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462344#462344 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010380a_596.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010375a_126.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010372a_519.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Date: Nov 11, 2016
Hi Remi, You show quite a bit more rubber sticking out either side than I see on mine, are you sure the outer large washers are fully clamped between the spacers? The rubber mounts don't seem fully compressed. Martin Tuck Sent from my iPad > On Nov 11, 2016, at 2:40 AM, Remi Guerner wrote: > > > Yesterday I started to remove stuff from the engine compartment with the intention of compensating the sagging using washers to shim the engine mounts. What I saw was worse than expected. See attached pictures. Obviously the new rubber mounts are a lot softer than the old ones. I am even wondering if such a configuration is airworthy and I am looking for advice on that point. > Now what to do? The best would be to replace the rubber mount by the right ones. I questioned Europa-Swift: they keep saying the supplied rubbers are the same as before, so I do not expect a solution from this side. Buying direct from their supplier: does anyone know the supplier name and part number of those rubber mounts? > Remi > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462344#462344 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010380a_596.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010375a_126.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010372a_519.jpg > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Cook <iancook_1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: R Trim Tab - Spare one + otrher items
Date: Nov 11, 2016
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Date: Nov 11, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published
in December! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Nov 11, 2016
Yes Martin, the rubber mounts are fully compressed. I have done further investigation today. I hoisted the engine and surprisingly the rubber mounts did not come back to their symetrical position. Obviously there is a problem with the material (not completely cured?) which leads to a permanent deformation. I will probably re-install the original rubbers which are in very good shape, a lot better after 16 years and 1400 flight hours than the new ones after 10 months/80 hours. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462434#462434 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: R Trim Tab - Spare one + otrher items
Ian, Sorry. It has gone. David On 2016-11-11 16:44, Ian Cook wrote: > David, > > I am interested in your front fuselage moulding if that is still available. > > Ian Cook, currently based at Lasham airfield. > > G-CBHI > > M;07912944536 > > FROM: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] ON BEHALF OF davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk > SENT: 10 November 2016 16:49 > TO: europa-list(at)matronics.com > SUBJECT: Europa-List: R Trim Tab - Spare one + otrher items > > Having bought a complete kit to yield the front part of a fuselage for my own repair, I still have multiple spare bits to be disposed of at minimal charge, including tail planes and trim tabs. Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ > > PS Other outstanding items include: Fuel tank; Windscreen; top half of fuselage; Flap actuator (trigear); Trim actuator . Happy to sell for offers in the 10 to 20% list price range > > Also to give away: Used Mono wheel with good condition tyre & brake system: Tough moulding of bottom front fuselage, which would make ideal basis of a fuselage dolly. > > On 2016-11-10 15:24, jglazener wrote: > >> >> Have you considered simply getting new ones? In the old days the tabs could only be made as part of the complete stabiliser, but Europa now supply these parts as completed items as part of their Next Gen redesign. I have seen these NG parts, they look very good , and it could not only save you a lot of stress but also the risk that you end up with a sub-standard part. >> >> -------- >> >> Jeroen >> >> http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [1] >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462331#462331 [2] >> >> ectric.com >> >> ">www.buildersbooks.com [3] >> >> builthelp.com >> >> lotstore.com >> >> m >> >> .matronics.com/contribution >> >> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> >> ics.com >> >> .com >> >> .matronics.com/contribution Links: ------ [1] http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 [2] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462331#462331 [3] http://www.buildersbooks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: David Watts <dg.watts(at)talktalk.net>
Date: Nov 11, 2016
Hi Remi, After your eMail this morning with the photos of your rubbers you had me worried. So when I got to the aerodrome this morning I straight away checked mine, which you will recall I replaced with new in May. First off my spinner is in exactly the right position, so looking good. Next I removed the cowling and I could see that my rubbers are exactly as they should be. Phew!!!! I'm sorry that this doesn't shed any light on your problem though. Dave Watts > On 11 Nov 2016, at 18:44, Remi Guerner wrote: > > > Yes Martin, the rubber mounts are fully compressed. I have done further investigation today. I hoisted the engine and surprisingly the rubber mounts did not come back to their symetrical position. Obviously there is a problem with the material (not completely cured?) which leads to a permanent deformation. I will probably re-install the original rubbers which are in very good shape, a lot better after 16 years and 1400 flight hours than the new ones after 10 months/80 hours. > Remi > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462434#462434 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
Date: Nov 11, 2016
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From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
Date: Nov 11, 2016
Remi, This is most odd. I just put in a new set on a plane within 12 months and of course made sure the bolts were pulled up and the spacers were properly seated. No sag on the next annual. Go figure. Your landing gear mount and the engine mount are both square aren't they? One photo seemed to be out of alignment. As you are well aware, the rubber gap when torqued up should be even front to back and all four should be the same. Check the rubbers when you swap them out and look for a defect. Regards, Bud Yerly -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Remi Guerner Sent: Friday, November 11, 2016 3:40 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Engine rubber mounts --> Yesterday I started to remove stuff from the engine compartment with the intention of compensating the sagging using washers to shim the engine mounts. What I saw was worse than expected. See attached pictures. Obviously the new rubber mounts are a lot softer than the old ones. I am even wondering if such a configuration is airworthy and I am looking for advice on that point. Now what to do? The best would be to replace the rubber mount by the right ones. I questioned Europa-Swift: they keep saying the supplied rubbers are the same as before, so I do not expect a solution from this side. Buying direct from their supplier: does anyone know the supplier name and part number of those rubber mounts? Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462344#462344 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010380a_596.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010375a_126.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010372a_519.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Date: Nov 11, 2016
Sounds like a plan, definitely send them back to Europa for examination. Martin Sent from my iPad > On Nov 11, 2016, at 12:44 PM, Remi Guerner wrote: > > > Yes Martin, the rubber mounts are fully compressed. I have done further investigation today. I hoisted the engine and surprisingly the rubber mounts did not come back to their symetrical position. Obviously there is a problem with the material (not completely cured?) which leads to a permanent deformation. I will probably re-install the original rubbers which are in very good shape, a lot better after 16 years and 1400 flight hours than the new ones after 10 months/80 hours. > Remi > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462434#462434 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: "ploucandco" <jacques(at)platisource.com>
Date: Nov 12, 2016
I got both airmaster warp drive and woodcomp 3000 wide blade with smartavionics controller on my Europa XS. Both are good props, but my preference is on the airmaster. The warp drive blades are really sturdy (more noisy than the other ones and slightly slower), but no way I would land on a field with limited clearance with a woodcomp or a whirlwind blades. I am happy to be back with the airmaster warp drive. Working, easy, no maintenance and good enough performances! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462447#462447 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/europa_in_fields_205.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Nov 12, 2016
Today I removed those bloody rubber mounts. The attached pictures of one of them show how much they are damaged and out of center. They all are more or less like that. I will return them to Europa for investigation. I re-installed the 16 year old ones (which by comparison are like new) and the engine is back to its normal position. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462450#462450 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010408a_938.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010406a_190.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
Date: Nov 13, 2016
Jacques, You should see the 332 with the Whirlwind blades. Quite a jump in performance. But not as tough of course. As you said, good enough performance and it would be hard to justify upgrading the blades unless you wish to shame your Woodcomp friends. Regards, Bud Yerly -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ploucandco Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 4:46 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp? --> I got both airmaster warp drive and woodcomp 3000 wide blade with smartavionics controller on my Europa XS. Both are good props, but my preference is on the airmaster. The warp drive blades are really sturdy (more noisy than the other ones and slightly slower), but no way I would land on a field with limited clearance with a woodcomp or a whirlwind blades. I am happy to be back with the airmaster warp drive. Working, easy, no maintenance and good enough performances! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462447#462447 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/europa_in_fields_205.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser...
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't want. Yahoo, Google and that ilk are not "free". The user must constantly endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb to that. That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning, maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory. Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine. However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way. Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these Lists? http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "RogerJMills" <Roger.Mills(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2016
Hi Remi, I agree with you - there is definitely a problem with some of the MT4s supplied by Europa recently. My mounts fitted in June 2015 have exactly the same problem as yours and I have had to re-shim the mountings which, as you know, is a heck of a job. Although I managed to restore the spinner to cowl alignment it's evident that the engine is continuing to sag on its mounts and the MT4s will probably have to be replaced in the not too distant future. The comments on the forum about spacer lengths didn't apply to mine, I have the correct spacer and bolt length - of course the bolts are fully tightened to compress the end caps onto the spacers. If other Europa owners are not experiencing this problem, there are a few possibilities: 1. They have MT4s from another batch 2. Maybe they haven't replaced theirs recently (which is tempting because it is a heck of a chore every 5 years). 3. Maybe they've not noticed or have noticed but couldn't be bothered to do anything about it. (Unlikely) 4. Only you and I have been unlucky to receive 2 separate rogue sets. (Unlikely). 5. They've removed the spacers or shortened them further (unlikely). I wonder if anyone on the forum any knowledge of the supplier for these mounts? In any case I have e-mailed Karen to let her know that I too have experienced exactly the same problem as you. I have asked her if she could investigate if their stock has the correct stiffness and I await her reply. It's going to be important to resolve this because there's no point in ordering new MT4s until we know they are OK and it could lead to the aircraft being grounded in due course. Best Regards Roger Mills -------- Roger Mills Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462534#462534 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Replacement/Re-use of Mil Spec Multi Pin Connectors
From: "italianjon" <jon.catilli(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2016
Hi All, I am hoping someone is more familiar than me with NATO Spec connectors. I am installing Mode S/8.33 and a few other bits on my panel. Through the fire wall, for the signal / low power lines, I have 6026-18-32SN and 6026-18-32PN connectors. The coupling works really well and I would like to keep it if possible. I am struggling to find a spec sheet for them, as it appears that the spec has been discontinued. I have found PT06A-18-32s but the pin layouts look different. I have found some 6026-18-32 connectors, but they are prohibitively expensive and all appear as recovered/reconditioned stock, without spec sheets. Ideally I would like to re-use the connector and source new pins (both male and female) for it so that I can crimp new pins on to the new low power/signal lines and keep the connectors. Does anyone have/know where I could get/simply could tell me the model of pins that I would need to order? Best, Jon Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462536#462536 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Replacement/Re-use of Mil Spec Multi Pin Connectors
From: "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Date: Nov 14, 2016
Hi Jon, Military grade hardware is prohibitively expensive - but you won't get better. RS and Farnell used to supply these Amphenol connectors but I suppose the demise of our defence industry means there is no longer a market for them? You can download a datasheet from these people but you'll need to register. http://www.acalbfi.com/uk/Connectors-and-Cables/Circular/Connector/p/Circular-connector--602GB--MIL-DTL-26482---size-18--sockets--32-contacts--Olive-Drab-Cadmium/0000008D1M Unless you already have the dedicated Amphenol crimping tool (also prohibitively expensive) it might pay to get the solder-bucket pins (these people supply them) - all you need is a good quality temperature controlled soldering iron, a steady hand and younger eyes than I have. Hope that helps. Nigel On 14/11/2016 21:48, italianjon wrote: > > Hi All, > > I am hoping someone is more familiar than me with NATO Spec connectors. > > I am installing Mode S/8.33 and a few other bits on my panel. Through the fire wall, for the signal / low power lines, I have 6026-18-32SN and 6026-18-32PN connectors. The coupling works really well and I would like to keep it if possible. > > I am struggling to find a spec sheet for them, as it appears that the spec has been discontinued. I have found PT06A-18-32s but the pin layouts look different. I have found some 6026-18-32 connectors, but they are prohibitively expensive and all appear as recovered/reconditioned stock, without spec sheets. > > Ideally I would like to re-use the connector and source new pins (both male and female) for it so that I can crimp new pins on to the new low power/signal lines and keep the connectors. > > Does anyone have/know where I could get/simply could tell me the model of pins that I would need to order? > > Best, > > Jon > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462536#462536 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Reminder
Dear Listers, A quick reminder that November is the annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are covered solely through your Contributions during this time of the year. *Your* personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free. Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running for another great year! Use a credit card or your PayPal account here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by sending a personal check to: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door gas strut
From: "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 15, 2016
I can recommend the Europa Gas Strut from SGS Engineering Ltd. I have just purchased two which worked out at 50.38 including delivery. Fitted mine today and they do the job perfectly - no more sore heads thank goodness! They have a good web site or you can contact them at: SGS Engineering UK Ltd Email: shelby@sgs-engineering.com Tel: 01332 576850 I would have loved to have put the business Europa's way, but these work out at less than half the price. -------- Gordon Grant G-BWFH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462628#462628 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Come in, Australia
Date: Nov 15, 2016
Is Kingsley Hurst listening in?My emails have been kicked back as undeliverable Please contact me off-list Kingsley, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Come in, Australia
Date: Nov 15, 2016
hmmmmIve just had a msg to Lance Sanford kicked back as wellit appears that my ISP may not be playing nice with AUnothing critical at the moment...F. Is Kingsley Hurst listening in?My emails have been kicked back as undeliverable Please contact me off-list Kingsley, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's Your Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers, You might have wondered at some point, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine, List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for the over 23 years of on-line archive data always available for instant search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power these List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki. But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can make in your Sport! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Come in Australia...
Date: Nov 18, 2016
Calling Kingsley Hurst! Apparently there is nothing I nor my ISP can do on this end to allow me to contact you. >> kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au >> host asav.iinet.net.au <http://asav.iinet.net.au/> [203.59.218.120] >> SMTP error from remote mail server after initial connection: >> 554-icp-osb-irony-in17.iinet.net.au <http://554-icp-osb-irony-in17.iinet.net.au/> >> 554 Your access to this mail system from 50.28.105.172 has been rejected due to the sending MTA's poor reputation. If you believe that this failure is in error, please contact the intended recipient via alternate means. >> Reporting-MTA: dns; storm4.orcasonline.com <http://storm4.orcasonline.com/> I will see about getting another email account thru another ISP. Best, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: away of trouble noise
From: "jamlieleven" <jamlieleven(at)muchomail.com>
Date: Nov 19, 2016
When every one carries and uses cell phone every where, cell phone jammer (http://www.skybuying.com/category-177-b0.html) becomes necessary. Why is the cell phone jammers so popular now? There are all kinds of voice and noise in our lives, it keep hurting our ears and ruining our peace. Litel noise may be not an important problem for us, but in some places noise may cause serious result to all of us. We could ask people to shut up if they are talking, but what to do if their cell phones ring? There are so many places that absolute silence is needed. There must a simple and perfect solution for the cell phone noise. The cell phone jammer could meet our request. What can cell phone jammer do? What is it? The cell phone jammer is a kind of anti cell phone signal devices, it is used to block cell phone signal. When we turn on a cell phone jammer, all cell phones in a certain place could not receive the signal, thus can not work properly. In this way, we could easily solve the problem of cell phone noise in some public places where silence is needed. Belows are two of our ultimate mobile phone jammers. First is the 120W Waterproof mobile Phone Jammer. It is the most advanced jammer products in the market, which is designed with built-in ALC automatic protection circuit and cooling fan. It can efficiently block the signals of CDMA (869-894MHz), GSM (869-894MHz), DCS (869-894MHz), 3G (2110-2170MHz) and PCS (1930-1990MHz). Depending on the signal strengthen in the given area; this jamming range of this high power jammer can reach up to 200m at most. It is the ultimate security assurance that can be applied in all important locations as well as public places. It is the necessity of special locations, such as military areas, prisons and government buildings, as well as gas stations, oil depots, liquefied gas stations and other flammable areas. Besides, it is also appears in hospitals, conference rooms, concert halls, cinemas, schools, library, examination room, etc. The second one is another ultra advanced cell phone blocker (http://www.skybuying.com/)- 70W High Power Cell Phone Jammer for 4G WiMax with Omni- directional Antenna. It has the ability of jamming all kinds of cell phone signals. Equipped with an AC adapter, it can work continuously with a total output power of 70W. Besides, its built-in cooling fan enables it to have the good heat dissipation. With Omni-directional Antenna, it can jam the signal from all directions. Its jamming range can reach 1000 meters. But we have to mention that this one can block the 4G WiMax instead of the 4G LTE signal. To make it more convenient to operate, the output power of the mobile phone jammer is adjustable and all the TX frequencies cover downlink only. Do you have any idea about the cell phone jammers now? Are you looking for a good cell phone jammer? Just come to our website, here many cell phone jammers are waiting for your selection. Actually, we have many other jammers besides of the cell phone jammers, like GPS jammer, wifi jammer, wireless video jammer, audio jammer, UHF and VHF jammer. Our purpose is to solve the problem in our lives easily. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462756#462756 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Calling Australia...
Date: Nov 19, 2016
Come in Kingsleyreceived your email ref: use of Janices emailproblem ls that your ISPs server thinks my ISP is not trustworthynot sure whether or not you can convince it otherwiseIll set up an email account w/ gmailthis should workF. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
From: "BobD" <rjd(at)bobdawson.plus.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2016
I will be installing a Dynon Skyview System in my Europa in the near future, so have bumped this thread in the hope that since the original date, several more installations have taken place. I would be grateful for any advice or suggestions concerning the location and installation of the ADAHRS unit (and any of the other bits come to that), especially with photos if possible. TIA -------- Bob Dawson XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462856#462856 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
From: Donald Cameron <fireflier(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2016
Hi Bob I have my ADHARS installed in the P1 headrest. I created a panel in the front of the headrest to access the unit. I haven't got any photos, but will get some the next time i am at the aeroplane. Regards Donald G-PUPY Sent from my iPhone > On 21 Nov 2016, at 15:53, BobD wrote: > > > I will be installing a Dynon Skyview System in my Europa in the near future, so have bumped this thread in the hope that since the original date, several more installations have taken place. I would be grateful for any advice or suggestions concerning the location and installation of the ADAHRS unit (and any of the other bits come to that), especially with photos if possible. > > TIA > > -------- > Bob Dawson > XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462856#462856 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
Today! Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2016
Subject: Training
Does anyone have any suggestions for Training in the USA? I am getting real close now. Mine is a tri Thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
Date: Nov 21, 2016
Bob=85I=92ve located my ADAHRS unit on a shelf just aft of the =93D=94 panel on the stbd side=85the shelf pivots and has slot which allows for adjustment in two axes=85here=92s a pix=85Fred > On Nov 21, 2016, at 7:53 AM, BobD wrote: > > I will be installing a Dynon Skyview System in my Europa in the near future, so have bumped this thread in the hope that since the original date, several more installations have taken place. I would be grateful for any advice or suggestions concerning the location and installation of the ADAHRS unit (and any of the other bits come to that), especially with photos if possible. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 21, 2016
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
I put mine in the roof between the seats pic to follow. I havent flown yet so cant tell whether it works or not. William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 4:07 PM, Fred Klein wrote: > BobI=99ve located my ADAHRS unit on a shelf just aft of th e =9CD=9D panel on > the stbd sidethe shelf pivots and has slot which allows for adju stment in > two axeshere=99s a pixFred > > > On Nov 21, 2016, at 7:53 AM, BobD wrote: > > I will be installing a Dynon Skyview System in my Europa in the near > future, so have bumped this thread in the hope that since the original > date, several more installations have taken place. I would be grateful fo r > any advice or suggestions concerning the location and installation of the > ADAHRS unit (and any of the other bits come to that), especially with > photos if possible. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "JohnFrance" <77alembert(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2016
Dear All, As I will be purchasing some Rotax mounts in the near future I would be interested to know if the problem with the Europa supplied ones has been solved? Otherwise it might be safer to go elsewhere! Thanks for any feedback, John -------- Europa mono Nr 192 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462948#462948 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2016
I too have mounted mine just behind the D panel. As per Dynons instructions within 1 degree of.............cant remember now but heres mine. Made a box for my main and back up ADAHR's to sit on top of each other Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462952#462952 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/imga0910_115.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeffrey Roberts <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Training
Date: Nov 22, 2016
William, Just a thought for you based on what I did. I flew a Dimond DA-20 for 10 hours before my Europa. I remember when landing that long wing thinking that if it had a wing two feet shorter it would be much easier to land. The Europa is just that and super easy to fly and land. Jeff N128LJ > On Nov 21, 2016, at 3:32 PM, William Daniell wrote: > > Does anyone have any suggestions for Training in the USA? > > I am getting real close now. Mine is a tri > > Thanks > > Will > > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Training
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 22, 2016
Where are you going in the USA? Bud Yerly is in Florida. If coming out to California I can give training in mine Eurpora XS, I have one lady qualified in my plane. Drop me a line off-line if interested. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462954#462954 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Nov 22, 2016
I don't know the size of your AHAHRS, but I have the MGL and it two units and I place them on the overhear between the doors. I has worked very well for me. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462956#462956 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2016
Subject: Re: Training
Will, I agree with Jeff. I did 4 hours of training on a DA-20 before I flew my tri-gear Europa. Very similar takeoff and landing speeds and character as well as handling in the traffic pattern. I flew with US Aviation here in Denton. I don=99t know if they still have the DA-20s or not. I know they have DA-40s & 42s and a crap load of 150s, 152s & 172s. The Europa tri-gear is super easy to fly and land. Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs). Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger(at)mac.com On Nov 22, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Jeffrey Roberts wrote: William, Just a thought for you based on what I did. I flew a Dimond DA-20 for 10 hours before my Europa. I remember when landing that long wing thinking that if it had a wing two feet shorter it would be much easier to land. The Europa is just that and super easy to fly and land. Jeff N128LJ > On Nov 21, 2016, at 3:32 PM, William Daniell > wrote: > > Does anyone have any suggestions for Training in the USA? > > I am getting real close now. Mine is a tri > > Thanks > > Will > > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2016
Subject: Re: Training
OK thanks Bud is a good idea - I will ask him to start with. Failing that a DA20 Did you use a test pilot? Or did you just get in and fly having done the training? Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Tue, Nov 22, 2016 at 11:38 AM, Robert Borger wrote: > Will, > > I agree with Jeff. I did 4 hours of training on a DA-20 before I flew my > tri-gear Europa. Very similar takeoff and landing speeds and character a s > well as handling in the traffic pattern. I flew with US Aviation here in > Denton. I don=99t know if they still have the DA-20s or not. I kn ow they > have DA-40s & 42s and a crap load of 150s, 152s & 172s. > > The Europa tri-gear is super easy to fly and land. > > Blue skies & tailwinds, > Bob Borger > Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs). > Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP > 3705 Lynchburg Dr. > Corinth, TX 76208-5331 > Cel: 817-992-1117 > rlborger(at)mac.com > > On Nov 22, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Jeffrey Roberts wrote: > > William, > Just a thought for you based on what I did. I flew a Dimond DA-20 for 10 > hours before my Europa. I remember when landing that long wing thinking > that if it had a wing two feet shorter it would be much easier to land. T he > Europa is just that and super easy to fly and land. > Jeff N128LJ > > On Nov 21, 2016, at 3:32 PM, William Daniell > wrote: > > Does anyone have any suggestions for Training in the USA? > > I am getting real close now. Mine is a tri > > Thanks > > Will > > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "RogerJMills" <Roger.Mills(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2016
John, Karen has responded very positively and is taking the issue up with the suppliers. Meanwhile she's sent me some replacement MT4s which do appear to be harder than the ones I received last year but I haven't had chance to fit them yet. Hopefully the problem will be resolved soon - it's probably better to involve Europa because they are trying to provide a good service for us and we need to give them the business - I dread to think how difficult it would be if we were to have to trace down original suppliers and maybe get the wrong part. E.g. Andy Draper informed us that the Europa mounts weren't standard Lord mounts but used a harder rubber compound - so it's unlikely that you'd get the correct parts as standard? Best Regards Roger Mills -------- Roger Mills Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462964#462964 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: door latch plate
Date: Nov 22, 2016
Im working on the door handle mechanism. The pictures in the manual show the mounting plate DL02 with holes all over, but my plate does not have any holes other than the one for the spindle. The manual also mentions the Redux squidging through the holes when bonding in the DL02. I plan to drill a few holes in my DL02s - maybe not as many as in the picture - but wonder if anyone would advise against drilling holes in DL02. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Nov 23, 2016
Hi John, I would not trust the quality of any new MT4 supplied by Europa until the problem I experienced is fully understood, explained and corrected. I returned my weak MT4 to Europa you so that they can be analyzed. I hope to receive a report on the subject, but nothing up to now, except that Karen told me that harder MT4 have been shipped to me. You cannot either purchase those parts elsewere as the MT4 are non standard -harder-parts made especially for the Europa. This is due to the distance between the rubber mounts and the engine which causes the MT4 to carry an unusually high load. At this time, I do consider the only way is to stay with the old original MT4s. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462986#462986 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Nov 23, 2016
Mine's in the rear fuselage at the bottom and halfway between the D panel and the wooden frame. It sits on a little shelf bonded to the bottom and lies between the two rudder cables, which don't seem to affect its accuracy. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462987#462987 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Value of the List...
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to think of it, you do... :-) Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these Lists? http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
Date: Nov 24, 2016
Bob, I have built a number of panels and installed at least six types of Dynons from the original D-10 to D-180s, to a Skyview rewire.. Your panel layout is important for ease of maintenance, interference and security of the AHRS. >From the Skyview manual: Do not install near high current or magnetism. Avoid steel fasteners which may be magnetic. Also The ADAHRS installation location should also adhere to the following requirements: Avoid locations that are lower than the lowest point in the AOA/Pitot/Static system to reduce the chance of allowing moisture to enter the module. Avoid locations that are subject to severe vibration. Avoid locations that are subject to rapid changes in temperature. Avoid locations that are subject to extreme humidity. Leave ample working room for electrical and pneumatic connections. NON OF THESE WORKS IN AN AIRPLANE IN FLORIDA OR IN A SMALL AIRPLANE! Consider the following: Try to keep an AHARS close to the center axis of the airplane. In other words near the pitch/roll axis. Be sure to supply cooling air to the display unit. The new Skyview runs cooler due to a better processor but the unit still needs help keeping it cool. Symptom is it blanks out the screen. The Europa and most composite aircraft are a thermos bottle so you must mechanically get air past the unit. Cockpit air is good enough. I suck air from the pax footwell and blow it across the radios, the AHRS display computer, then out the top of the panel via more fans. Keep that stupid backup battery charged. It is all you have during the engine start power surge if hooked to the main bus. The Dynon Skyview in the Pipistel I am helping on works by turning on the avionics bus then turning it off (so the unit is on its backup power), then hit the start button. Heck of a thing. Plan well. Since pitot and static are necessary, consider the plumbing nightmare. If you have pitot static errors the avionics tech has to hook up to the AHARS independent of the round gauges. Plan for it, that way you never need it. Read the manual on a pitot/static check. You cannot change the pitot or static pressures while the unit is on. You have to shut it off between test points! Duh. As for the AHARS and Magnetometers: I have installed them under the pilots seat (Trigear). (Flight control movement is not a problem, but if you have electric fuel pumps keep the pump as far away as practical or about 3 feet.) I have installed them in the overhead (do not use the old David Clark massive magnetic headsets or your heading moves with your head). I have installed them under the radio stack in the panel and had no problems, but the AHARS has to have an aluminum box around it for EMP interference. I found out later. Don't worry about stationary metal objects near the magnetometer, it will work. It is the moving stuff like the mass balance arm. I have put them into the aft fuselage. I put it under the baggage bay and it worked fine. Make sure it is level, solidly mounted, and just in case adjustable in all three axis. Rubber isolation mounts are not to be used. I like to use brass screws into brass barrel nuts. If you are off just a bit, calibration takes care of those 1-2 degree errors. Test your installation up to full ground run-up before you finish the interior so you can make adjustments. Ground the AHARS/Magnetometer and Skyview to exactly the same ground plane. If you use the remote radio/transponder, ground them there too. Use quality connectors and learn to crimp well. Buy your sensitive mag compass (I use the SIRS type) and use it to check your desired installation for magnetism problems power on and off. Setup: Once installed, make sure you have ample time to do the setup. Plan at least an 8 hour day to get everything programmed. Then record all your settings in case it gets dumped. Call Dynon if you have a problem. Note: I build my panels so they can sit on a bench and be powered up and tested. Includes antenna and com. Test your pitot and static on the bench using proper equipment. Find and correct your leaks. A couple hundred dollars to an avionics shop is worth it. I have not had a problem with the engine running and any AHARS I've installed. I strongly suggest you install round gauge Altimeter and Airspeed and connect them to the Europa pitot tube for a backup. Pay attention if you want to use the Dynon pitot for your AOA as its location must be well below the wing and near the leading edge as in the setup or it's not worth setting up AOA. The Dynon pitot has a drain / vent hole so keep it clear. Do all the setups and updates per the manual, make sure each component is talking to the other and it will work. Issues: Pay attention to the tach. Dynons have tach oscillation problems. Pay attention as a 912 or 912S have too much voltage for the Skyview, and the 914 is a bit weak at the high end. I have had to put a pot in to find the right resistance to smooth and lower signal voltage to get it stable. On the 914, I had to install a tach generator. On one I had to put a shroud around the magnetometer due to antenna interference. Go figure only one antenna caused the jumpy heading. Buy a direct reading pressure gauge as the Dynon/Grand Rapids sensors don't always work as advertised. If you want exact readings, test, test, test. I confess I hate every piece of equipment in an aircraft, but if you spend the time, you will make it work the way you want it to (or settle for) and enjoy your experience. Folks love the Dynon Skyview for its "I don't even have to look out of the cockpit" neat stuff, but read the manuals, read the problem reports, and do the updates. Dynon tended to release hardware before the software caught up to the real world. Not so much anymore. Have a great time, you will enjoy it. Regards, Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations, Inc. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BobD Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 10:53 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question I will be installing a Dynon Skyview System in my Europa in the near future, so have bumped this thread in the hope that since the original date, several more installations have taken place. I would be grateful for any advice or suggestions concerning the location and installation of the ADAHRS unit (and any of the other bits come to that), especially with photos if possible. TIA -------- Bob Dawson XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462856#462856 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 25, 2016
Subject: Swift news
Just noticed on Facebook that "The Swift VLA is now in production" sent from Rowland's iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: door latch plate
From: "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl>
Date: Nov 25, 2016
Hello Rowland, It has to do with the strength of the bond. Even with scuff sanding the shear forces which get applied to the plate might be too strong. With the holes and the redux inside them you are effectively interweaving the plate and the adhesive which makes for a much stronger bond. see http://europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=86708 Regards, Jeroen -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463099#463099 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Swift news
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Nov 26, 2016
Rowland, Maybe wishful thinking on their part. We all wish them well but the recent "Swiftfest" that took place at the RAeS in London indicated they have a very long way to go before getting to a prototype let alone a production aircraft. In homebuild circles we say that when the project looks 90% complete there is 90% to go. In aircraft certification the starting gun is fired when the authorities are engaged, the process is time limited (although extensions can be authorised) and does not end until the TCDS is issued. The production phase is normally triggered following the successful demonstration and flight trials of prototypes, freezing of the design and the success of key structural tests. Even then there is a need for a launch customer. Swift are forging a path that we hope will result in a viable, sustainable and desirable aircraft. Being composite means the high cost of tooling needs to be committed to very early in the process. This is risky unless sufficient R&D is done - enough to absolutely confirm the OML (outer mould line) is final and often (depending upon the production method) that structures are sufficient to pass the necessary strength tests (wing static ~13.5g for an aerobatic aircraft). Over-design results in a heavy, poorly performing aircraft. It is a tight-rope walk for sure. I am sure that if they heed advice and adhere to a conventional R&D, prototype/test and debugging program they will achieve their aims. But in all probability it will take 3 times longer and cost 5x as much as they initially planned. I speak from experience. -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463103#463103 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon AHAHRS question
From: "BobD" <rjd(at)bobdawson.plus.com>
Date: Nov 26, 2016
Thanks for all the responses so far, especially the comprehensive write-up from Bud. I am initially favouring Fred's neat solution behind the D Panel on a shelf, but am intrigued by the idea of locating it in the P1 headset as suggested by Donald, so remain open to being swayed. I look forward to the photos. I am thinking of using the already installed static pitot in the wing (suitably modified) for the AOA probe, and relocating the static port into the fuselage.I read elsewhere on the thread of three locations at 120 degree apart around the fuselage (with one at bottom centre to allow moisture to escape). Dynon offer a static port kit with all the necessary connections and tube cutter at approx 120. I have yet to cost up the individual items, so I don't know if this is good value, or even just worth it to get all the parts from one source. Any thoughts ? I just have to say what a wonderful source of information and ideas this Forum is, and such a great boon to newbies like me. -------- Bob Dawson XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463104#463104 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few Days Left...
Dear Listers, There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it! The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your Lists! Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists! Please make a Contribution today! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 28, 2016
Subject: Polyester Filler BETWEEN epoxy plies.
> Hi, I am wondering what the greater wisdom is of using polyester car bog filler under a ply of epoxy cloth to use as a thickener for my flap fairings? I have a transition from my wing to fuselage fairing, bonded to the root end of my wing, and a different radius for the fairing that goes from my flap fairing, on my flap, to the fuselage. The under wing air will trip off my wing and become turbulent beneath my flap to fuse fairing, so I have contour built up the flap fairing so it ensures the air can hopefully remain smooth. That means this polyester bog is probably about 6mm thick at the thickest. I could groove it and then apply flox before placing a single ply of cloth over the top, locking it in onto the fairing at its edges, glass to glass, or not bother? Any advice or wisdom appreciated. Regards Tony Renshaw ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Fund Raiser Behind By 28% - Please Contribute Today!
Dear Listers, The percentage of members making a Contribution to support the Lists this year is currently behind last year by at this time by roughly 28%. Please take this opportunity to show your support for the Matronics Lists and Forums! Please remember that it is *solely* your direct Contributions that keep these Lists and Forums up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to support the Lists directly, then I might have to add advertisements to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I don't want to have to do that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and I think that a lot of the members appreciate that too. Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free operation of all these Lists: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you! Matt Dralle Email List and Forums Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just Two Days Left! - Still Behind...
Dear Listers, There are just two more days left in this years List Fund Raiser. We are still way behind last year in terms of the number of contributions and total contribution amount. I really want to keep providing these services to the homebuilt community, but it take resources. Since there's no advertising budget or deep pockets to keep the operation a float, its solely your generosity during the Fund Raiser that keeps things going. Please make a Contribution today. If you've been putting off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time to do it! Make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution web site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a check in the mail: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FLYGAS SUPERCHARGER
From: "SPURPURA" <SPURPURA(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 29, 2016
Has anyone tried the Flygas Supercharger for the 912? Will it fit the the stock engine support frame.Look's to be a good system if it would fit. -------- I'D RATHER HAVE A BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME THAN A FRONTAL LABOTAMY. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463509#463509 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: James Davis <jim.davis1(at)me.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2016
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 11/29/16
Remove me from list Sent from my iPad > On 30 Nov 2016, at 08:03, Europa-List Digest Server wrote: > > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete Europa-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the Europa-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 16-11-29&Archive=Europa > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 16-11-29&Archive=Europa > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Europa-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Tue 11/29/16: 2 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 0. 09:49 AM - Just Two Days Left! - Still Behind... (Matt Dralle) > 1. 01:32 PM - FLYGAS SUPERCHARGER (SPURPURA) > > > > ________________________________ Message 0 _____________________________________ > > > From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> > Subject: Europa-List: Just Two Days Left! - Still Behind... > > > Dear Listers, > > There are just two more days left in this years List Fund Raiser. We are still > way behind last year in terms of the number of contributions and > total contribution amount. I really want to keep providing these services to the > homebuilt community, but it take resources. Since there's no > advertising budget or deep pockets to keep the operation a float, its solely your > generosity during the Fund Raiser that keeps things going. Please > make a Contribution today. > > If you've been putting off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time > to do it! > > Make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution > web site: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Or, drop a check in the mail: > > Matronics / Matt Dralle > 581 Jeannie Way > Livermore, CA 94550 > > Thank you in advance for your support! > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Administrator > > > ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > > Subject: Europa-List: FLYGAS SUPERCHARGER > From: "SPURPURA" <SPURPURA(at)aol.com> > > > Has anyone tried the Flygas Supercharger for the 912? Will it fit the the stock > engine support frame.Look's to be a good system if it would fit. > > -------- > I'D RATHER HAVE A BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME THAN A FRONTAL LABOTAMY. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463509#463509 > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again - 53! :-) But it also means that it's that last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!! If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting it off for some reason, NOW is the time! I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want to be known as a person that supported the Lists! I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running and I don't ever forget it. The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making your Contribution right now: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Trip report Gower Beaches South Wales UK
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Dec 01, 2016
https://forums.flyer.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=102407 -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463614#463614 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Subject: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
Date: Dec 01, 2016
Hi, I'm still determined to upgrade my Europa monowheel to an EFIS and have pretty much settled on the 10 inch Dynon display. So I'm in my early stages of panel planning I have determined that the standard mono panel moulding is not quite wide enough for the 10 in screen. It needs building up to the left by maybe 1/2 inch which starts to encroach into the recess for the gear/flap handle. My question is, has anyone else already done this and if so, did you make some kind of gear/flap handle extension that would make it easier to push and pull the handle up and down? I'd be interested in any solutions along with any pictures. Thanks, Martin Tuck Wichita, Kansas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
Date: Dec 01, 2016
Martinthough I opted for the 7=9D Skyview, principally because I have a stand-alone EMS and will not have to split-screen the Dynon to get that data, because of associated layout decisions regarding back up steam gauges, I too needed to decrease the width of the recess for the gear/flap handle by approx. 1/2=9Da bit of handy hacksaw work is all it tookI=99ll send pixs directly to youFred > On Dec 1, 2016, at 6:44 PM, Martin Tuck wrote: > > I'm still determined to upgrade my Europa monowheel to an EFIS and have pretty much settled on the 10 inch Dynon display. > > So I'm in my early stages of panel planning I have determined that the standard mono panel moulding is not quite wide enough for the 10 in screen. > > It needs building up to the left by maybe 1/2 inch which starts to encroach into the recess for the gear/flap handle. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Dec 02, 2016
Here's my solution. Really all I wanted to do was to replace the old dead electric A/H, but for not much more money this is perfect for VFR only. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463620#463620 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Re: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
Martin, Have you looked at the Garmin G3X Touch system, which I have found very impressive in demonstration. Am in the middle of fitting an 8" EFIS with a G5 acting as back up for altimeter, ASI horizon and lots else, tying in with my old (not very) GNC255A Nav/com system. Both the 8" EFIS and the G5 are beautifully readable in any light and I am not clear that a 10" one would offer any extra benefit. Doing away with the steam driven back up instruments means there is plenty of room on the panel for all the extras I want. I am also fitting a remote transponder and small certified GPS so that it will all work for ADSB in and out. The LAA historically insisted on steam back up instruments, but they have recently relaxed this edict and I have just heard that the G% is acceptable acting as back up ASI and altimeter Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ On 2016-12-02 02:44, Martin Tuck wrote: > > Hi, > > I'm still determined to upgrade my Europa monowheel to an EFIS and have pretty much settled on the 10 inch Dynon display. > > So I'm in my early stages of panel planning I have determined that the standard mono panel moulding is not quite wide enough for the 10 in screen. > > It needs building up to the left by maybe 1/2 inch which starts to encroach into the recess for the gear/flap handle. > > My question is, has anyone else already done this and if so, did you make some kind of gear/flap handle extension that would make it easier to push and pull the handle up and down? > > I'd be interested in any solutions along with any pictures. > > Thanks, > > Martin Tuck > > Wichita, Kansas > Links: ------ [1] http://www.aeroelectric.com [2] http://www.buildersbooks.com [3] http://www.homebuilthelp.com [4] http://www.mypilotstore.com [5] http://www.mrrace.com [6] http://www.matronics.com/contribution [7] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List [8] http://forums.matronics.com [9] http://wiki.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FLYGAS SUPERCHARGER
From: "JohnFrance" <77alembert(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2016
Has anyone tried the Flygas Supercharger for the 912? Will it fit the the stock engine support frame. Look's to be a good system if it would fit.[/quote] Hello to all, I see this post has received no replies. The idea of coaxing a few more hp out of my 912 UL is also appealing but I have doubts about fitting it all in between the engine and firewall! Does anyone have some real life experience with Flygas systems? Regards John -------- Europa mono Nr 192 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463623#463623 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2016
Subject: Re: FLYGAS SUPERCHARGER
Turbocharge it using a bully hawk kit or adapting a mitsubishi truck turbo. i can send you fotos if you contact me off line Will On Dec 2, 2016 11:30, "JohnFrance" <77alembert(at)gmail.com> wrote: > > Has anyone tried the Flygas Supercharger for the 912? Will it fit the the > stock engine support frame. Look's to be a good system if it would > fit.[/quote] > > Hello to all, > I see this post has received no replies. The idea of coaxing a few more hp > out of my 912 UL is also appealing but I have doubts about fitting it all > in between the engine and firewall! > Does anyone have some real life experience with Flygas systems? > > Regards > > John > > -------- > Europa mono Nr 192 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463623#463623 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
From: "SPURPURA" <SPURPURA(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2016
Here is a pic of the 8 1/2" GRT Sport SX in my Tri-gear. Very happy with the unit. -------- I'D RATHER HAVE A BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME THAN A FRONTAL LABOTAMY. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463628#463628 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_1_553.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2016
Subject: Re: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
Thanks David, yes that was another I looked at but is quite a bit more expen sive. I still look st it from time to time. Martin Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 2, 2016, at 7:15 AM, davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk wrote: > > Martin, Have you looked at the Garmin G3X Touch system, which I have found very impressive in demonstration. Am in the middle of fitting an 8" EFIS wi th a G5 acting as back up for altimeter, ASI horizon and lots else, tying in with my old (not very) GNC255A Nav/com system. Both the 8" EFIS and the G5 are beautifully readable in any light and I am not clear that a 10" one wou ld offer any extra benefit. Doing away with the steam driven back up instrum ents means there is plenty of room on the panel for all the extras I want. I am also fitting a remote transponder and small certified GPS so that it wil l all work for ADSB in and out. The LAA historically insisted on steam back u p instruments, but they have recently relaxed this edict and I have just hea rd that the G% is acceptable acting as back up ASI and altimeter > > Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ > > > > >> On 2016-12-02 02:44, Martin Tuck wrote: >> >> >> Hi, >> >> I'm still determined to upgrade my Europa monowheel to an EFIS and have p retty much settled on the 10 inch Dynon display. >> >> So I'm in my early stages of panel planning I have determined that the st andard mono panel moulding is not quite wide enough for the 10 in screen. >> >> It needs building up to the left by maybe 1/2 inch which starts to encroa ch into the recess for the gear/flap handle. >> >> My question is, has anyone else already done this and if so, did you make some kind of gear/flap handle extension that would make it easier to push a nd pull the handle up and down? >> >> I'd be interested in any solutions along with any pictures. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Martin Tuck >> >> Wichita, Kansas >> >> w.aeroelectric.com >> ">www.buildersbooks.com >> builthelp.com >> lotstore.com >> m >> .matronics.com/contribution >> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> ics.com >> .com >> .matronics.com/contribution >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2016
Dynon is an excellent choice.........I have 2. The only modification to the panel needed is to chop out a bit small bit of the panel moulding for the top left of the screen to allow you to get it into position Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463635#463635 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/imga0730_copy_152.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2016
Subject: RE: 10 inch Dynon in a Mono
Hi Martin, I installed the 10 inch Dynon in my mono. ____________________________________________________________ Avoid Botox: How To Remove Lip Lines & Wrinkles In 2 Minutes Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5841d36d35fa3533e1102st01vuc It is a tight flight, however, the modification to the panel was minimal a nd does not encroach on the gear retract space. Regards, Erich Trombley N28ET Classic Mono Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LAA Night / IFR Trials
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Dec 03, 2016
So LAA/CAA UK have announced at the Flying Show Telford that permit aircraft can now be certified for IFR and Night flight instead of just VFR daylight. Four permit aircraft have been assessed (not a Europa) but the Europa is on the likely to be possible list. Two leaflets have been issued TL 2.27 APPROVAL FOR OPERATION OF LAA PERMIT TO FLY AIRCRAFT IN IMC, UNDER IFR OR AT NIGHT http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/Operating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.27%20Night%20IFR%20procedure.pdf TL 2.28 ASSESSMENT OF LAA PERMIT TO FLY AIRCRAFT FOR OPERATION IN IMC, UNDER IFR OR AT NIGHT http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/Operating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.28%20Night%20IFR%20assessment.pdf Just been through TL2.28 and for my Europa and it looks like I'd need: 1. A new primary horizon with the Gemini PFD relegated to backup (or back to my venturi vac one in the shed), for some reason they say the Trutrak cant be trusted as primary (seems to work fine for me) 2. Heated Pitot and static plus on/off switch/wiring etc 3. Autopilot trim isolation switch 4. Maybe a bigger battery I might fall down on instrument layout and there are a lot of hoops to fly through. Is anyone else interested in pursuing it? I have kept my IMC valid for years. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463654#463654 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Date: Dec 03, 2016
Subject: Soft start module
Hi Everyone, If anybody has or knows of a Rotax soft start module for sale, please let me know by direct, private email. Thanks. Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2016
Subject: Naca Vent fitting
David, I could see the attachment that you sent to Rowland on the matronics server - could you send it to me again please. Many thanks Will *Match:#9Message:#62560Date:Mar 16, 2016From:davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk <http://doctors.org.uk>Subject:Re: naca inlets <http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=135415806?KEYS=naca_inlets?LISTNAME=Europa?HITNUMBER=9?SERIAL=08385430964?SHOWBUTTONS=NO> Rowland, I believe it came on a separate piece of paper with the inlets. David On 2016-03-16 16:40, Rowland Carson wrote: > > On 2016-03-16, at 15:20, davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk <http://doctors.org.uk> wrote: > >> NACA positioning instructions attached, David Joyce, GXSDJ > > David - much obliged. Wonder why that wasn't included in my manual. > > in friendship > > Rowland > > | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... > | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk [1] > | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson > | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson <http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson> [2]* William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2016
Subject: Re: Naca Vent fitting
Couldn't I meant..... On Dec 4, 2016 11:47, "William Daniell" wrote: > David, > > I could see the attachment that you sent to Rowland on the matronics > server - could you send it to me again please. Many thanks Will > > *Match:#9Message:#62560Date:Mar 16, 2016From:davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk > <http://doctors.org.uk>Subject:Re: naca inlets > <http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=135415806?KEYS=naca_inlets?LISTNAME=Europa?HITNUMBER=9?SERIAL=08385430964?SHOWBUTTONS=NO> > Rowland, I believe it came on a separate piece of paper with the inlets. > David On 2016-03-16 16:40, Rowland Carson wrote: > > On 2016-03-16, at > 15:20, davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk <http://doctors.org.uk> wrote: > >> > NACA positioning instructions attached, David Joyce, GXSDJ > > David - much > obliged. Wonder why that wasn't included in my manual. > > in friendship > > > Rowland > > | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... > | > http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk [1] > | > Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson > | pictures: > http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson > <http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson> [2]* > > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: LAA Night / IFR Trials
Date: Dec 04, 2016
Hi Graeme, Good luck with the IFR approval, I=99d love to follow in your footsteps! Driving a conventional heated pitot could be problematic but this article looks promising: http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/thermopitot.pdf <http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/thermopitot.pdf> Please keep us posted of any progress. Cheers, Roger > On 3 Dec 2016, at 17:57, graeme bird wrote: > > > So LAA/CAA UK have announced at the Flying Show Telford that permit aircraft can now be certified for IFR > and Night flight instead of just VFR daylight. > Four permit aircraft have been assessed (not a Europa) but the Europa is on the likely to be possible list. Two leaflets have been issued > TL 2.27 APPROVAL FOR OPERATION OF LAA PERMIT TO FLY AIRCRAFT IN IMC, UNDER IFR OR AT NIGHT > http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/Op erating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.27%20Night%20IFR%20procedure.pdf > > TL 2.28 ASSESSMENT OF LAA PERMIT TO FLY AIRCRAFT FOR OPERATION IN IMC, UNDER IFR OR AT NIGHT > http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TechnicalLeaflets/Op erating%20An%20Aircraft/TL%202.28%20Night%20IFR%20assessment.pdf > > Just been through TL2.28 and for my Europa and it looks like I'd need: > 1. A new primary horizon with the Gemini PFD relegated to backup (or back to my venturi vac one in the shed), for some reason they say the Trutrak cant be trusted as primary (seems to work fine for me) > 2. Heated Pitot and static plus on/off switch/wiring etc > 3. Autopilot trim isolation switch > 4. Maybe a bigger battery > > I might fall down on instrument layout and there are a lot of hoops to fly through. > Is anyone else interested in pursuing it? I have kept my IMC valid for years. > > -------- > Graeme Bird > G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, > 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total > g(at)gdbmk.co.uk > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463654#463654 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LAA Night / IFR Trials
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Dec 04, 2016
This is the initial assessment on my Europa for TL2.28; maybe someone else could make use of it and adapt it: It would be great to know someone who has been involved to date and could give me an early steer. Looks like a MOD application to install a heated pitot is the first thing required; then moving instruments around, then ASI tests and writing a POH lite -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463684#463684 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/gemini_api_question_184.docx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Bliss <william(at)wbliss.co.uk>
Subject: Mono to Taildragger conversion
Date: Dec 04, 2016
Hello All Is anyone in the UK in the business of converting monowheel Europa's to standard tailwheel configuration? William Bliss G-WUFF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Re: Naca Vent fitting
William, I will see if I can find it again, but my workshop & filing system massively turned upside down by my efforts to repair my plane and get rid of most of the extra kit I bought! Rowland is the sort of organised fellow who may be able to lay a hand on it immediately! Regards, David On 2016-12-04 16:42, William Daniell wrote: > David, > > I could see the attachment that you sent to Rowland on the matronics server - could you send it to me again please. Many thanks Will > > MATCH: > _#9_ > > MESSAGE: > _#62560_ > > DATE: > _MAR 16, 2016_ > > FROM: > _DAVIDJOYCE(AT)DOCTORS.ORG.UK [1]_ > > Subject: > _RE: NACA INLETS [4]_ > >> Rowland, I believe it came on a separate piece of paper with the inlets. David On 2016-03-16 16:40, Rowland Carson wrote: > > On 2016-03-16, at 15:20, davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk [1] wrote: > >> NACA positioning instructions attached, David Joyce, GXSDJ > > David - much obliged. Wonder why that wasn't included in my manual. > > in friendship > > Rowland > > | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... > | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk [2] [1] > | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson > | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson [3] [2] > > William Daniell LONGPORT > > +57 310 295 0744 Links: ------ [1] http://doctors.org.uk [2] http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/ [3] http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson [4] http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=135415806?KEYS=naca_inlets?LISTNAME=Europa?HITNUMBER=9?SERIAL=08385430964?SHOWBUTTONS=NO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Naca Vent fitting
Date: Dec 05, 2016
On 2016-12-04, at 16:42, William Daniell wrote: > I could see the attachment that you sent to Rowland on the matronics server - could you send it to me again please Will - here it is. Sending direct to your own address as well as to the list. | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Mono to Taildragger conversion
Date: Dec 05, 2016
Hi William, Do you really mean 'standard tailwheel' because there is no such thing. The only 'standard' mod is for tri gear conversion. There are tail wheel conversions that have been carried out but they are not standard mods. Pete Jeffers -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Bliss Sent: 04 December 2016 20:14 Subject: Europa-List: Mono to Taildragger conversion Hello All Is anyone in the UK in the business of converting monowheel Europa's to standard tailwheel configuration? William Bliss G-WUFF ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: James Kelly <europajimkelly(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 06, 2016
Subject: Re: Mono to Taildragger conversion
Hi William, I own a conventional Europa Taildragger G-BWEG. The original builder did the conversion from Mono using the Swiss Mod. I believe that Duncan McFadyean G-BXII has also done a cracking job on his Europa. My last email for Duncan is member(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk If you have had any other responses I be happy to receive them. Best wishes Jim Kelly On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 8:13 PM, William Bliss wrote: > > Hello All > Is anyone in the UK in the business of converting monowheel Europa's to > standard tailwheel configuration? > William Bliss G-WUFF > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster or Woodcomp?
From: "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl>
Date: Dec 07, 2016
David, I would like to discuss this further offline, but can't get through on your email address. Could you drop me a line? j.glazener14(at)gmail.com -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463770#463770 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Subject: Dynon Pitot/AOA
Date: Dec 07, 2016
Anyone fitted the Dynon Pitot/AOA sensor? The instructions recommend fitting it up to 12 inches behind the leading edge. As it does not have a static port I plan to continue using the Europa pitot/static (for a back up ASI) and as a common static source. The Europa pitot/static is 12 inches behind the spar so quite a ways back from Dynons suggestion. Any problems utilizing the same area next to the Europa pitot/static tubes for the Dynon pitot/AOA do you think. I want to run the pitot/AOA lines along the same path. If anyone has experience of this location I would like to hear. It probably doesn;t matter for the pitot part - just wasn't sure if the AOA was critical of position. Regards, Martin Tuck N152MT Wichita, KS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon Pitot/AOA
Date: Dec 08, 2016
> On Dec 7, 2016, at 2:07 PM, Martin Tuck wrote: > > > > Anyone fitted the Dynon Pitot/AOA sensor? The instructions recommend fitting it up to 12 inches behind the leading edge. As it does not have a static port I plan to continue using the Europa pitot/static (for a back up ASI) and as a common static source. > > The Europa pitot/static is 12 inches behind the spar so quite a ways back from Dynons suggestion. MartinWhat does Dynon tech support have to say?F. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2016
Subject: Re: Dynon Pitot/AOA
Hi Fred, I haven't purchased anything yet, but I guess there is no harm in asking. Ju st thought someone might have first hand experience. Martin Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 8, 2016, at 1:34 PM, Fred Klein wrote: > > >> On Dec 7, 2016, at 2:07 PM, Martin Tuck wrote: >> >> >> Anyone fitted the Dynon Pitot/AOA sensor? The instructions recommend fitt ing it up to 12 inches behind the leading edge. As it does not have a static port I plan to continue using the Europa pitot/static (for a back up ASI) a nd as a common static source. >> >> The Europa pitot/static is 12 inches behind the spar so quite a ways back from Dynons suggestion. > > MartinWhat does Dynon tech support have to say?F. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing walk area delamination?
From: "Richard Lamprey" <lamprey.richard(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
Hi, my wing-walk area , pilots side, especially spar-forward, is softer and springier than it used to be. It used to be hard as a rock. Maybe with all the getting in and out, especially moving forward to the leading edge, has caused some delamination. Has anyone else had this problem, and how did they solve it? Thanks, best, Richard Kenya Europa Classic Mono Reg 5Y-LRY Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463794#463794 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon Pitot/AOA
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
I was about to post a similar post myself. The Dynon AoA/pitot is already fitted to many aircraft but there is no Europa specific Mod which has been accepted by the LAA. I realise this is not required outside the UK but the acceptance process considers all of the aerodynamic, structural and performance issues and therefore is a good place for others to start. I have already advised an owner that the Dynon recommendation for the position of the AoA probe/pitot may not be best for the Europa. The existing pitot/static is >50% aft chord and has around 7in offset from the lower aerofoil surface. As there is an existing facility to attach the standard pitot/probe and access the static lines l figure this may be a good place to install the Dynon. The function/calibration as an AoA needs to be assessed. It is not intended to be the primary means of stall warning, it being a backup to the stall strip or buzzer already mandated by the LAA. If there are any Europa owners/operators on the forum who currently have the Dynon AoA/pitot system installed can they please send me an email (to john.wighton (at) ecoflight.co.uk). This is especially the case for UK based operators (or other nations who use LAA Engineering approvals as a baseline) as they are most likely operating with unapproved equipment. All communications will be treated as confidential) Another challenge is to get the required power out to the heated pitot. This is relevant for Europa owners who are considering adapting their aircraft for UK IFR operation under the LAA scheme. The static port locations could be as standard (as Martin is proposing) - l understand that Andy Draper has recommended twin fuselage mounted ports on another Europa which will use the Dynon pitot/AoA. The location of these is not yet proven, although Andy has significant experience with Europas and may have seen a similar installation that worked successfully. Depending on the response to this request l should be able to share relevant technical data with Martin in the USA. -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463795#463795 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
Hi Richard, I know one builder who had a similar problem by simply seating in that area while working on the aircraft. His body heat, along with a hot day, caused the softening. Not sure what he did, if anything. He didn't have any delaminating. Cheers, Tim Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street, Fendalton, Christchurch, 8052 New Zealand ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz Mob +64 210640221 > On 9/12/2016, at 4:41 PM, Richard Lamprey wrote: > > > Hi, my wing-walk area , pilots side, especially spar-forward, is softer and springier than it used to be. It used to be hard as a rock. Maybe with all the getting in and out, especially moving forward to the leading edge, has caused some delamination. Has anyone else had this problem, and how did they solve it? > Thanks, best, Richard > Kenya Europa Classic Mono Reg 5Y-LRY > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463794#463794 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
Richard, I would make an immediate inspection of the are using a boroscope, if the skin is compromised in this area there may be a significant reduction in strength. The delaminated skin will only transfer loads in tension (top skin = negative G), therefore you may have a reduction in ability to transfer positive G loads to the fwd pickup. Luckily the spar does much of the work, but the skins work for torsion and to transfer drag/antidrag loads via shear into the fwd/aft pickups. If it is delaminated the repair may need to be more than localised. Did you know Dr Joyce has some spare wings from kit #506? I hope it turns out to be more benign than it at first appears. Regards JW -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463797#463797 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: David Watts <dg.watts(at)talktalk.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
Hi Richard, Yes I have had it a couple of times and dealt with it on 3 others. Seen in the right light you will usually see what looks like a high area (like a big low bubble). Mark the outer limits of this bubble with a marker or tape. Now the way to sort it out is to drill a series of 1/8 inch or so holes around towards the outer limits of the area and then leave it for a while to settle (maybe overnight or a day or so). I usually tape and cover over the rest of the wing outside of the area with plastic sheet. Now get a syringe and mix up some resin and inject it in to one of the holes and keep injecting until it comes out of each of the other holes. You will have to tape over each hole after the first bit of resin comes out of that hole to stop all of it coming out of that one. Once you have got resin out of all of the holes you know it has spread throughout the area and you are done. I usually cover the area with plastic sheet and lay something flexible and soft and a little weighty over the area like a small bag of sand. After it has all set you just need to make the area good again, which is the worst part of the job. Dave Watts G-BXDY Classic Monowheel 2,300 hours. > On 9 Dec 2016, at 08:41, Richard Lamprey wrote: > > > Hi, my wing-walk area , pilots side, especially spar-forward, is softer and springier than it used to be. It used to be hard as a rock. Maybe with all the getting in and out, especially moving forward to the leading edge, has caused some delamination. Has anyone else had this problem, and how did they solve it? > Thanks, best, Richard > Kenya Europa Classic Mono Reg 5Y-LRY > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463794#463794 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
If memory serves me, a very long time ago Peter Kember had the same thing and effected a repair in the same way as Doug describes above. I think that the reason I haven't suffered in the same way (yet) might be because I added a couple of extra layers of glass cloth to my walkways 20 years ago. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463799#463799 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dynon Pitot/AOA
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
I am looking at adding heating to the end of a standard europa pitot pipe from aircraft spruce. Either using the positive temperature coeffient PTC resistors as proposed/built by Eric M Jones for his glastar or using power resistors around the tube end and a thermistor/silicon sensor based drive to heat when its around zero. This way could make pitot heating viable on a standard 912S alternator. It could be sufficiently light as to make no difference to the mounting method. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis ap, pflarm, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP 5, Aera500 & SD on Nexus, 250 hours & 4 years on the Mono, 880 total g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463800#463800 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
Subject: Cowling (Airmaster) spinner gap
What is the recommended gap between the cowling and the spinner I see 1" in the manual but think that I have seen different on the forum. thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2016
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Re: Cowling (Airmaster) spinner gap
Will, When I was building I spoke to Andy Draper atthe company and he said 2-3 mm is fine and enough to allow for engine movement. No point in having large gaps, which do nothing for aerodynamics or appearance. Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ On 2016-12-09 20:31, William Daniell wrote: > What is the recommended gap between the cowling and the spinner > > I see 1" in the manual but think that I have seen different on the forum. > > thanks > > Will > > William Daniell LONGPORT > > +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cowling (Airmaster) spinner gap
From: david park <dpark748(at)icloud.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
Dave Park Mine is no more than 3/8inch Regards Dave Park On 9 Dec 2016, at 20:31, William Daniell wrote: > > What is the recommended gap between the cowling and the spinner > > I see 1" in the manual but think that I have seen different on the forum. > > thanks > > Will > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2016
Subject: Re: Cowling (Airmaster) spinner gap
Ok excellent thanks On Dec 9, 2016 15:35, "William Daniell" wrote: > What is the recommended gap between the cowling and the spinner > > I see 1" in the manual but think that I have seen different on the forum. > > thanks > > Will > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: "Richard Lamprey" <lamprey.richard(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2016
Hi everyone, thanks for the comments here, and also off-thread by Erich and David (of Swift). Putting it all together, I read that the extent of my delamination is not enough to worry about unduly, but to monitor and repair according to the Europa guidelines if it gets much larger. However, I also read that it is largely due to kneeling on the wing-walk, especially spar-forward, that does it.... quite tricky avoiding this, especially if there are things to fix deep in the cockpit, eg in the fuel selector area. Unless you have the dimensions and flexibility of a small gibbon. I am 6'1", 96 kg, so kneeling will put a big force on that area. All best Richard Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463849#463849 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2016
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
Is there any advice on prevention? I'm similar dimensions. Will On Dec 12, 2016 06:58, "Richard Lamprey" wrote: > lamprey.richard(at)gmail.com> > > Hi everyone, thanks for the comments here, and also off-thread by Erich > and David (of Swift). Putting it all together, I read that the extent of > my delamination is not enough to worry about unduly, but to monitor and > repair according to the Europa guidelines if it gets much larger. However, > I also read that it is largely due to kneeling on the wing-walk, especially > spar-forward, that does it.... quite tricky avoiding this, especially if > there are things to fix deep in the cockpit, eg in the fuel selector area. > Unless you have the dimensions and flexibility of a small gibbon. I am > 6'1", 96 kg, so kneeling will put a big force on that area. > > All best > Richard > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463849#463849 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: David Watts <dg.watts(at)talktalk.net>
Date: Dec 12, 2016
Richard, Kneeling on the wing is obviously not the only cause of delamination because I virtually never kneel or stand on the wing. The way I get in is to stand in front of the wing and swing my right leg over the wing and in to the cockpit and then pull myself round and into the seat. Getting out I push myself up and then swing my legs out and over the front of the wing. I must add that at 70 I am pleased that I can still perform these manoeuvres. Dave Watts > On 12 Dec 2016, at 11:54, Richard Lamprey wrote: > > > Hi everyone, thanks for the comments here, and also off-thread by Erich and David (of Swift). Putting it all together, I read that the extent of my delamination is not enough to worry about unduly, but to monitor and repair according to the Europa guidelines if it gets much larger. However, I also read that it is largely due to kneeling on the wing-walk, especially spar-forward, that does it.... quite tricky avoiding this, especially if there are things to fix deep in the cockpit, eg in the fuel selector area. Unless you have the dimensions and flexibility of a small gibbon. I am 6'1", 96 kg, so kneeling will put a big force on that area. > > All best > Richard > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463849#463849 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
Date: Dec 12, 2016
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From: Dave Glowa <Dave.Glowa(at)termrim.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
Date: Dec 12, 2016
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From: Chris Cameron <chris(at)cameron.org.nz>
Date: Dec 13, 2016
Subject: Europa Kit for sale
Hi Everyone, My Europa Kit (formerly Tony K's) #272, and trailer, is almost complete and still for sale. As I know of one NZ (Wellington) builder who bought a kit and was unaware that #272 was available, I thought I'd put the information out there again. I have a full BOM available and all reasonable and realistic offers will be considered. This is probably most appealing to NZ or, possibly AU, builders, or potential builders. I'm in the Wellington region and the kit will be available until I announce it has been sold. If any NZ or AU builders or owners are speaking to anyone with an interest in an almost complete kit, please give them my contacts, or drop me an email. Cheers Chris +6421973775 Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Interior
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2016
Hello all. I am starting to think about the interior of my classic and have a couple of questions. Firstly does anyone have contact details for Rob Frank as I would like to contact him reference his lovely interior which I saw this year at the LAA meet and secondly can anyone recommend a trimmers in the south east area, preferably in Kent? Many thanks Frank Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463867#463867 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: "Richard Lamprey" <lamprey.richard(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2016
Thanks again everyone. So here's another question... especially affects anyone who lives outside of UK or USA. Ampreg is classified as a highly dangerous substance, so there are major issues in getting this transported now on any airline. I have nothing left from my completion 18 years ago, and wouldn't want to use this anyway!! Back in 1999, my last batch of 5 litres, cost GBP 600 to get to me in Kenya, once packaging regs had been complied with. Do they sell in small quantities that can be easily transported? What are the alternatives for epoxy resins, that I might be able to find (in Kenya getting anything like this is challenging, its polyester resins only). I am in UK occasionally. Best Richard Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463875#463875 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: Pete Lawless <pete(at)lawless.info>
Date: Dec 13, 2016
Hi Richard For odd little jobs I get small quantities of epoxy from Severn Valley Sailplanes. Should think most companies that supply glider bits in the UK could help. http://www.svsponline.co.uk/scheufler-l285-resin.html Regards Pete On 13/12/16 08:35, Richard Lamprey wrote: > > Thanks again everyone. So here's another question... especially affects anyone who lives outside of UK or USA. Ampreg is classified as a highly dangerous substance, so there are major issues in getting this transported now on any airline. I have nothing left from my completion 18 years ago, and wouldn't want to use this anyway!! Back in 1999, my last batch of 5 litres, cost GBP 600 to get to me in Kenya, once packaging regs had been complied with. Do they sell in small quantities that can be easily transported? What are the alternatives for epoxy resins, that I might be able to find (in Kenya getting anything like this is challenging, its polyester resins only). I am in UK occasionally. > Best > Richard > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463875#463875 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Dec 13, 2016
West Systems does a range of package sizes and this is what I've bought recently through Amazon, although you can get it from many sources including boat suppliers. Instead of 205 standard hardener, you might consider 206 slow because you're working in a hot climate. https://www.amazon.co.uk/West-System-Pack-Epoxy-Hardener/dp/B00BAX1UI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481626520&sr=8-1&keywords=west+system+epoxy Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463877#463877 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Interior
From: "BobD" <rjd(at)bobdawson.plus.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2016
Like Frank, I am thinking of getting my interior done soon, so if anyone has suggestions or contacts for Trimmers in the Midlands or North, please let me know (I am in Sheffield). TIA -------- Bob Dawson XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463879#463879 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: James Kelly <europajimkelly(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2016
Subject: Re: Interior
Hi Bob, I need the same, please let me have any details we could get a cheaper job if there's two potential clients. Jim G-BWEG Classic taildragger Europa On 13 Dec 2016 12:29 p.m., "BobD" wrote: Like Frank, I am thinking of getting my interior done soon, so if anyone has suggestions or contacts for Trimmers in the Midlands or North, please let me know (I am in Sheffield). TIA -------- Bob Dawson XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463879#463879 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2016
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
Hi Richard, Ampreg isn't especially good as an adhesive [ not much better as a laminating resin either !], better by far would be a 30 minute epoxy adhesive from a model / hobby shop. I use Pacer z-poxy for any tacking jobs, and all my models.Their 30 min' stuff is quite runny when warmed up before mixing. Warm the two components up, they come in flexable bottles with nozzles so easy to pour, it's a 50/50 ratio [ use scales !]. Get everything drilled and masked as others have said, I usually drill a 3/16'' hole to suit the syringe, and 1/8'' holes around the edge of the delamination, mask off the entire area ' and well past, leaving the holes open and have ready bits of tape to seal when each hole weeps resin. Buds tip of chilling the area sounds good. Do a test run between 2 pieces of clear Perspex with the described holes, to a similar size to the damaged area, taped together with mixing stick shims so there is a gap for the resin to fill. A test mix of Ampreg with a bit of micro in it, when cured will snap quite easily, the Z-poxy, as is with no micro will remain flexable, much better bet than a stiff lump of resin. DONT USE POLYESTER, IT WILL DISOLVE THE BLUE FOAM ! Cheers, Nev -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lamprey <lamprey.richard(at)gmail.com> Sent: Tue, 13 Dec 2016 8:40 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Wing walk area delamination? Thanks again everyone. So here's another question... especially affects anyone who lives outside of UK or USA. Ampreg is classified as a highly dangerous substance, so there are major issues in getting this transported now on any airline. I have nothing left from my completion 18 years ago, and wouldn't want to use this anyway!! Back in 1999, my last batch of 5 litres, cost GBP 600 to get to me in Kenya, once packaging regs had been complied with. Do they sell in small quantities that can be easily transported? What are the alternatives for epoxy resins, that I might be able to find (in Kenya getting anything like this is challenging, its polyester resins only). I am in UK occasionally. Best Richard Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463875#463875 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
Date: Dec 13, 2016
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Date: Dec 13, 2016
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Wing walk area delamination?
One of the better resin systems is Scheufler L285 H285 used by the glider i ndustry,possibly Grob too. It's less toxic and easy to use. There is a US v ersion, MGSsold by Aircraft Spruce.Graham | | | Redirect Notice | | | On Tuesday, 13 December 2016, 17:20, Bud Yerly wrote : Richard,It's, tough as all epoxies are hazardous.So ground or supply aircr aft only for transport. Any quality laminating epoxy resin is normally fine.=C2- In Africa, Sting Aircraft uses epoxy so there is a supplier in South Africa I'm sure.=C2- Compare the MSDS and SPECIFICATIONS documentation.=C2- Ampreg 20 was simi lar to Aeropoxy and West Systems.=C2- Ampreg just needed very warm temper atures to cure well.=C2- Aeropoxy cures at room temp as do many boat epox ies like West Systems. I only use Ampreg 21 when required for me doing structural mods such as mod 78.=C2- 21 is tougher but for our layups I use Aeropoxy. Regards, Bud Yerly,Custom Flight Creations, Inc. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROIDOn Dec 13, 2016 3:43 AM, Richard Lamprey wrote: .com> Thanks again everyone.=C2- So here's another question... especially affec ts anyone who lives outside of UK or USA.=C2- Ampreg is classified as a h ighly dangerous substance, so there are major issues in getting this transp orted now on any airline.=C2- I have nothing left from my completion 18 y ears ago, and wouldn't want to use this anyway!!=C2- Back in 1999, my las t batch of 5 litres, cost GBP 600 to get to me in Kenya, once packaging reg s had been complied with.=C2- Do they sell in small quantities that can b e easily transported?=C2- What are the alternatives for epoxy resins, tha t I might be able to find (in Kenya getting anything like this is challengi ng, its polyester resins only).=C2- I am in UK occasionally. Best Richard Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463875#463875 Month -- Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) om -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. st Email Forum - -=C2-=C2- - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -=C2- - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - - - List Contribution Web Site - -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Texel Fly in 25th-27th August
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 14, 2016
Hi all, you can register now http://www.texelflyin.nl/registration-form/ Looking forward to meeting you (again) :-) Regards Roland Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463904#463904 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Used Rotax 914 F for sale
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 14, 2016
Hi all, in Germany there's a Rotax 914 F for sale. It's currently installed in a club-motorglider. I know the president of the club from e-Mail exchange and he seems to be a nice and honest guy (BTW he also owns an LAA-permit- aircraft). He speaks English well. Here's the ad: _____________________________________________________________ 09.12.2016 Rotax 914 F3, Bj. 2002, 1400 h TBO-Erhhung auf 2000 h (neues Kurbelgehuse) in 2007. Motor erreicht 2017 seine TBO nach Jahren (15), hat jedoch nach Stunden noch 600 h offen. Wir als Verein drfen den Motor so nicht mehr verwenden. Im UL oder privaten Flugzeug kann er noch gute Dienste leisten. Der Motor ist derzeit in einem Motorsegler eingebaut, er kann in diesem Zustand begutachtet werden, aber auch ausgebaut und verschickt werden. 5.700 Jrgen Mhringer 1.vorsitzender@sfc-hockenheim.de ____________________________________________________________ It's a 2002-model which has the 2000 h TBO increased by a new crankcase in 2007. It has run 1400 h and reached it's time-TBO (15 years) and therefore is no longer allowed to be used in the certified motorglider. Just in case anyone is in need of a 914 (I was a few years ago). Regards Roland Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463905#463905 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 14, 2016
Subject: Bonding transparencies
In the manual it calls for a 1mm gap all round between transparency amd rebate. I happen to have an exact fit and am loath to start sanding having heard of cracking etc. Is the 1mm gap important? Thanks will ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bonding transparencies
From: "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl>
Date: Dec 14, 2016
The 1 mm gap is so that the adhesive can properly bond the sides of the window and rebate as well. Trimming is not as scary as it sounds. I used a belt sander which works pretty easily. For the final trim it helps to do it on the plane itself. Have someone (#1 son in my case) hold it so you can fit-sand-fit-sand in quick succession. Take care to also not just scuff sand the gel coat in the rebate but sand it down to the glass. There is a design anomaly whereby the plexiglas is 1 mm thickr than the rebate is deep. Causes drag, extra filling etc so try to at least minimise it this way. -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463913#463913 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil tank auxiliary bracket
From: "G-ODTW" <dave(at)robotas.co.uk>
Date: Dec 14, 2016
Hi Rowland, I had an= 1/8" aly strip in my firewall fwd kit, 25mm * 257mm, in a poly bag mysteriously labelled "EURO65". I think it must be to make the "90 degree angled bkt". There is no dwg, so I guess it is wing-it time again. The tank has also swapped sides since the Classic, being on the port side on our Classic TriGear G-MFHI. I will stick to the new instructions. -------- David Walters 01474 816817 dave(at)robotas.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463916#463916 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil tank auxiliary bracket
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Dec 14, 2016
Failing all of the above, B & Q stocks various sizes of steel angle brackets, which would only need suitable holes drilled and rust-proofing. Job done! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463918#463918 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil tank auxiliary bracket
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
On 2016-12-14, at 22:03, G-ODTW wrote: > I had an= 1/8" aly strip in my firewall fwd kit, 25mm * 257mm, in a poly bag mysteriously labelled "EURO65". I think it must be to make the "90 degree angled bkt". > > There is no dwg, so I guess it is wing-it time again. David - thanks for your message. Yes, I had a EURO65 in my FWF kit too, but couldnt find a reference to it in the manual, and nobody seems to know what its for. Karen searched for something that might be used to make the oil tank bracket support but she couldnt find anything and said that EURO65 did not appear to be it. I am adopting plan B which is to use a longer screw at the top inboard location and fit it with an aluminium sleeve to provide the correct spacing of the bracket from the indented part of the firewall. I feel this is a better engineering solution anyway. Not sure if it will count as a mod! in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy new co
From: "G-ODTW" <dave(at)robotas.co.uk>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
I have kit 215, a Classic Tri Gear, with a Rotax 912ULS. It has the Classic cowls ( I actually have 2 sets of them), but the Europa supplied firewall forward kit requires XS cowls. Folk tell me I must order a set of XS cowls. But is it feasible to mod the Classic ones? Having been totally absorbed running an engineering business for the last 30 years, building my 'plane came last in the priorities. Finally I have more time and am making good progress, but I do have a few dumb questions that others asked 15+ years back. -------- David Walters 01474 816817 dave(at)robotas.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463942#463942 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
Subject: Door seals
I set up the doors and they open and close fine...nice tight fit and flush. Without the seal. With the seal (without transparency) i have to lean most of my weight down to get the shoot bolts in. This is obviously going to be hard with the windows in and my concern is not engaging the rear bolt by mistake causing the door to depart. Had anybody had the same problem? I am thinking of finding an alternative seal. Will ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy new
co
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Date: Dec 16, 2016
David, If you were supplied with a Europa XS engine frame then no it is not feasible. The engine frame extends the cowls two inches forward. The XS cowls also have a different cooling system which allows for your oil and water radiators sent by Europa. Would like to buy the Classic cowls however delivery to NZ would too expensive. Cheers, Tim Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street, Fendalton, Christchurch, 8052 New Zealand ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz Mob +64 210640221 > On 16/12/2016, at 5:39 AM, G-ODTW wrote: > > > I have kit 215, a Classic Tri Gear, with a Rotax 912ULS. It has the Classic cowls ( I actually have 2 sets of them), but the Europa supplied firewall forward kit requires XS cowls. > > Folk tell me I must order a set of XS cowls. But is it feasible to mod the Classic ones? > > Having been totally absorbed running an engineering business for the last 30 years, building my 'plane came last in the priorities. Finally I have more time and am making good progress, but I do have a few dumb questions that others asked 15+ years back. > > -------- > David Walters > 01474 816817 > dave(at)robotas.com > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463942#463942 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Martin Tuck <MJKTuck(at)cs.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy new
co The XS engine mount is different allowing the engine to sit higher for more prop clearance. The oil and water radiators are located below the engine. I think you would need the XS style cowlings. Regards, Martin Tuck N152MT (Older Europa with XS cowls). Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 15, 2016, at 10:39 AM, G-ODTW wrote: > > > I have kit 215, a Classic Tri Gear, with a Rotax 912ULS. It has the Classic cowls ( I actually have 2 sets of them), but the Europa supplied firewall forward kit requires XS cowls. > > Folk tell me I must order a set of XS cowls. But is it feasible to mod the Classic ones? > > Having been totally absorbed running an engineering business for the last 30 years, building my 'plane came last in the priorities. Finally I have more time and am making good progress, but I do have a few dumb questions that others asked 15+ years back. > > -------- > David Walters > 01474 816817 > dave(at)robotas.com > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463942#463942 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy new
co
From: "G-ODTW" <dave(at)robotas.co.uk>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
Thank Tim & Martin. I have now put my Classic top cowl in place, and it is a lot shorter. Decision made! The improved prop clearance will be welcome too. Does anyone need Classic cowls? Does anyone have a set of XS cowls? -------- David Walters 01474 816817 dave(at)robotas.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463952#463952 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/classic_cowl_on_xs_frewall_fwd_247.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy new
co
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
David, please PM me. I'm doing something similar. Rgds, Jonathan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463953#463953 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy new
co
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
Good to see you are making progress Dave. The XS engine frame makes the engine sit 1" further forward and 2" higher and will not work with the "classic" cowls........I'v already researched this as you know i too have the classic.If you have to buy new cowlings try Neville Eyre's as they have bigger air in takes and baffles to direct and slow down the air. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463954#463954 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy new
co
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2016
To use your classic cowls you would need to get a classic engine mount and classic radiators (2 of them) but am sure the oil cooler could be modified if you modified the cowls like Peter kember did to move it under the prop. Check out the Europa owners club site under building. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463961#463961 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door seals
From: "jglazener" <j.glazener(at)planet.nl>
Date: Dec 16, 2016
Had exactly the same issue. The doors were nearly impossible to close from the outside, totally impossible from the inside. Found out though that if you leave them locked for a few weeks, the seals settle and compact. No problem now! Will still bolt a wooden knob on the inside back to be able to pull the back end in. -------- Jeroen http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463962#463962 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2016
From: trevannan <roger(at)trevannan.wanadoo.co.uk>
Subject:
Hi All I would like to share a little problem solver . I am tidying my classic Europa redoing the upholstery , new fuel measuring and putting extended luggage bay in. I wanted to empty the fuel tank, for the fuel mod and decided to take my capacitance gauge mod out. To my surprise there was a lot of bits in bottom of the tank and a layer of fuel. Some of this was bits from sealing the cap gauge in originally now dislodged but some just bits. I have always been strict on filtering my fuel when filling from cans. Now vacuuming the tank out would be a wee bit on the dangerous side, I put my memory to work. Years ago I did a bit of diving and remembered the use of airlifts to lift sand etc underwater. So I got a couple meters of 15mm plastic pipe and drilled a hole about 450mm from one end call it A and inserted my airline air nozzle facing A into drilled hole then placed other end B into tank . When I pulled trigger on the air nozzle it worked sucked up the bit of fuel and debris, it also picked up after all fuel was sucked out , leaving me with a clean tank. I hope someone will find this of some use ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A. Buess Aviatik" <ykibuess(at)bluewin.ch>
Subject: Door seals
Date: Dec 16, 2016
Will, I had the same situation (XS fuselage), but found that only the lower horizontal seals caused the problem. I stayed with the original seals on top and on the sides, replaced the lower seals by a thin version: problem solved, the doors close easily. Regards, Alfred Von: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] Im Auftrag von William Daniell Gesendet: Donnerstag, 15. Dezember 2016 17:53 An: europa-list(at)matronics.com Betreff: Europa-List: Door seals I set up the doors and they open and close fine...nice tight fit and flush. Without the seal. With the seal (without transparency) i have to lean most of my weight down to get the shoot bolts in. This is obviously going to be hard with the windows in and my concern is not engaging the rear bolt by mistake causing the door to depart. Had anybody had the same problem? I am thinking of finding an alternative seal. Will ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 16, 2016
Hi all, any news on this? I seem to have the same problem as Remi but even worse. I've purchased my rubber mounts from Europa in 2012. I'm also considering to reinstall the old ones - odd enough! Regards Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463968#463968 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20161216_151753_132.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2016
Subject: Re: Door seals
Excellent thanks so much. Very helpful thanks everyone Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Fri, Dec 16, 2016 at 4:13 AM, jglazener wrote: > > Had exactly the same issue. The doors were nearly impossible to close from > the outside, totally impossible from the inside. Found out though that if > you leave them locked for a few weeks, the seals settle and compact. No > problem now! Will still bolt a wooden knob on the inside back to be able to > pull the back end in. > > -------- > Jeroen > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463962#463962 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Hi Roland, Still no news from Europa on that subject. They keep saying they are investigating the issue with their supplier. In the meantime I have received a set of mounts which seem to be of the same hardness as the original ones. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464043#464043 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Bonjour et merci, Remi. So I'm probably going to to the same as you - replacing the faulty ones with the old "good" ones and send the new ones to Europa. While we're at it, how many hours did the replacement take you and how did you hoist the engine? Anything to take special care of? I hope that all wires and cables can stay in place. When I changed the rubbermounts the last time I had to install a new engine anyway, so accessibility wasn't an issue back then. Salut Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464044#464044 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Hello, The easiest way without removing or hoisting the engine is to remove the bolts of one vertical pair of mounts and "swing" the engine out like on a hinge, giving just sufficient room to take out and replace the rubber mounts on the opposite side. Then reinstall and do the other side. I have a classic installation which allows a bit of sideways movement. Christoph Both Europa #223 Wolfville Canada Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 17, 2016, at 07:16, Roland wrote: > > > Bonjour et merci, Remi. > > So I'm probably going to to the same as you - replacing the faulty ones with the old "good" ones and send the new ones to Europa. While we're at it, how many hours did the replacement take you and how did you hoist the engine? Anything to take special care of? I hope that all wires and cables can stay in place. > > When I changed the rubbermounts the last time I had to install a new engine anyway, so accessibility wasn't an issue back then. > > Salut > Roland > PH-ZTI > XS TG 914 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464044#464044 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk>
Subject: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of the spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? Regards Brian Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy ne
Hi David, I did just that. I have a 914 installed with XS engine mount in my monowheel classic with a modified classic cowl. I chose to cut of f the nose of the cowl and extend it to accommodate the 914 and build a doghouse for the XS oil cooler and radiator. The process is really pret ty straight forward. Contact me off list if you would like additional d etails. Regards,Erich TrombleyN28ET David wrote: I have kit 215, a Class ic Tri Gear, with a Rotax 912ULS. It has the Classic cowls ( I actually have 2 sets of them), but the Europa supplied firewall forward kit requi res XS cowls. Folk tell me I must order a set of XS cowls. But is it feasible to mod t he Classic ones? Having been totally absorbed running an engineering business for the las t 30 years, building my 'plane came last in the priorities. Finally I ha ve more time and am making good progress, but I do have a few dumb quest ions that others asked 15+ years back. ____________________________________________________________ How To Remove Eye Bags & Lip Lines Fast (Watch) Womans Weekly http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/58555fbe835d75fbe58b9st03vuc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
I think I know the one you mean and have a copy but no access to my computer where it's stored. I'll pass it on later. Alan Burrill Sent from my iPad > On 17 Dec 2016, at 13:47, Brian Davies wrote: > > Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of t he spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a l ink or drawing of the design? > > Regards > > Brian Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete Jeffers <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Hi Alan, If and when you find the details could you copy me in as well. Ta Pete J Happy Christmas =F0=9F=8E=85 -----Original Message----- From: "Alan Burrill" <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk> Sent: =8E17/=8E12/=8E2016 16:02 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door Hinge I think I know the one you mean and have a copy but no access to my compute r where it's stored. I'll pass it on later. Alan Burrill Sent from my iPad On 17 Dec 2016, at 13:47, Brian Davies wrote: Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of t he spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? Regards Brian Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy ne
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Hi Erich. Curiosity's got the better of me! Any chance of pictures to show the finished result from sides and front? Thanks. Jonathan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464054#464054 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy ne
From: "G-ODTW" <dave(at)robotas.co.uk>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Thanks Eric, but I now have one of Neville Eyre's cowls on order. -------- David Walters 01474 816817 dave(at)robotas.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464056#464056 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 17, 2016
On 2016-12-17, at 13:47, Brian Davies wrote: > Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of the spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? Brian - here=99s what I=99ve got relating to Ted Gladstone=99s design. The sketches came from Gerry Cole who wrote: > I attach my sketch of the upper pivot bracket as requested, which may be useful for Europa=99s mod. I=99ve just had a good look round to see if I had a copy of Teds drawing but without success. However I did find my drawing of the lower pivot point machining needed to position the bottom end of the gas strut correctly within the stay. I=99ll attach this in a second email since today Photo Gallery wants to put everything in a cloud if I try to attach both. > Should you want to go with Ted=99s mod he may not mind you contacting him =93 he may still be in the LAA Edinburgh strut. I have his address as 19 Southfield Gardens East, Edinburgh EH15 QN, Tel No 0131 669 7255. He shares (shared?) Europa G-ZTED with Justin Kennedy which has a number of Ted=99s clever mods. And now I=99ve discovered another thread from 2014 which points to: http://www.theeuropaclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/G-ZTED-Strut-Mod.p df So we should have looked on the Europa Club website first! in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Hi Christoph ant thanks for the tip - sounds not that difficult, but accessibility in front of the firewall is not great anyway. I'm confident that I can make it within a few hours with the help of my mechanic. Grsse aus Deutschland :-) Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464059#464059 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk>
Subject: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Many thanks Rowland, That is exactly what I was looking for. I did try the Europa Club website first but my search skills failed me. Best regards Brian From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson Sent: 17 December 2016 17:35 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door Hinge On 2016-12-17, at 13:47, Brian Davies wrote: Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of the spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? Brian - here=99s what I=99ve got relating to Ted Gladstone=99s design. The sketches came from Gerry Cole who wrote: I attach my sketch of the upper pivot bracket as requested, which may be useful for Europa=99s mod. I=99ve just had a good look round to see if I had a copy of Teds drawing but without success. However I did find my drawing of the lower pivot point machining needed to position the bottom end of the gas strut correctly within the stay. I=99ll attach this in a second email since today Photo Gallery wants to put everything in a cloud if I try to attach both. Should you want to go with Ted=99s mod he may not mind you contacting him =93 he may still be in the LAA Edinburgh strut. I have his address as 19 Southfield Gardens East, Edinburgh EH15 QN, Tel No 0131 669 7255. He shares (shared?) Europa G-ZTED with Justin Kennedy which has a number of Ted=99s clever mods. And now I=99ve discovered another thread from 2014 which points to: http://www.theeuropaclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/G-ZTED-Strut-Mod. pdf So we should have looked on the Europa Club website first! in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/15/16 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/17/16 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Brian, Pete and Rowland and here is the full mod I downloaded. Alan > On 17 Dec 2016, at 17:34, Rowland Carson wrote: > > On 2016-12-17, at 13:47, Brian Davies > wrote: > >> Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of the spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? > > > Brian - here=99s what I=99ve got relating to Ted Gladstone=99s design. > > > The sketches came from Gerry Cole who wrote: > >> I attach my sketch of the upper pivot bracket as requested, which may be useful for Europa=99s mod. I=99ve just had a good look round to see if I had a copy of Teds drawing but without success. However I did find my drawing of the lower pivot point machining needed to position the bottom end of the gas strut correctly within the stay. I=99ll attach this in a second email since today Photo Gallery wants to put everything in a cloud if I try to attach both. >> Should you want to go with Ted=99s mod he may not mind you contacting him =93 he may still be in the LAA Edinburgh strut. I have his address as 19 Southfield Gardens East, Edinburgh EH15 QN, Tel No 0131 669 7255. He shares (shared?) Europa G-ZTED with Justin Kennedy which has a number of Ted=99s clever mods. > > > And now I=99ve discovered another thread from 2014 which points to: > > http://www.theeuropaclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/G-ZTED-Strut-Mod.p df <http://www.theeuropaclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/G-ZTED-Strut-Mod. pdf> > > So we should have looked on the Europa Club website first! > > in friendship > > Rowland > > > | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... > | > http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk > | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson > <007.jpg> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Roland and Christoph, When I did that work, I first tried to remove the two upper bolts while hoisting the engine to remove most of the load. That did not work as the bolts were sticking to the rubber material. So I decided to proceed as for Mod 72, i.e. moving forward the engine/prop/cooling tunnel. You really need to borrow an hydraulic crane to do that easily. Depending on your installation you may need to disconnect some wiring or/and hoses. I do not know how many hours of labor I spent, but that was probably around 15 hours. Not funny! Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464061#464061 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
One more question: last time when we installed the rubber mounts, we managed to compress not only the MT04's but also the MT03 steel-spacers with which to me seemed like a reasonable torque, so that I also had to order new MT03's from Europa. Although the MT04 should be fully compressed on the MT03 spacers I'd like to avoid to again damage the MT03's by overtorquing for obvious reasons. Any suggestions as to how to make it right? The installation manual only states "tightened fully": Note: The 4 AN5-41 mounting bolts must be tightened fully to compress the rubber anti-vibration mounts (MT04) onto the steel spacers (MT03). Regards Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464062#464062 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
On 2016-12-17, at 21:13, Roland wrote: > One more question: last time when we installed the rubber mounts, we managed to compress not only the MT04's but also the MT03 steel-spacers with which to me seemed like a reasonable torque, so that I also had to order new MT03's from Europa. > > Although the MT04 should be fully compressed on the MT03 spacers I'd like to avoid to again damage the MT03's by overtorquing for obvious reasons. > > Any suggestions as to how to make it right? The installation manual only states "tightened fully: Roland - I fitted the rubber mounts not very long ago. Although some effort was required to compress the rubbers, I found that it was relatively easy to feel when the MT02 cup washers came into contact with both ends of the MT03 spacers - there was a distinctly more solid resistance to further tightening. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 17, 2016
Thank you, Rowland. The problem might have been, that we were two (one turning on the one side and one securing on the other side) and so maybe lacking that feeling for the distinctive resistance you've described. OTOH I wasn't aware, that it's at all possible to deform the MT03 "so easily". Regards Roland (without the "w" :-) PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464064#464064 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Date: Dec 18, 2016
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
Roland, The purpose of the sleeve is to act as a spacer so that the rubbers are compressed to the correct amount and no more. There is no need for the nuts to be torqued as such in this application. Once the nut starts to lock up because of the spacer taking the load, turn the nut only enough then to align the first castellation for the split pin. In fact, depending on how it feels, it might be best to back off the nut to the first available castellation. Regards Kingsley in Oz. Sent from my iPhone > On 18 Dec. 2016, at 7:13 am, Roland wrote: > > > One more question: last time when we installed the rubber mounts, we managed to compress not only the MT04's but also the MT03 steel-spacers with which to me seemed like a reasonable torque, so that I also had to order new MT03's from Europa. > > Although the MT04 should be fully compressed on the MT03 spacers I'd like to avoid to again damage the MT03's by overtorquing for obvious reasons. > > Any suggestions as to how to make it right? The installation manual only states "tightened fully": > > Note: > The 4 AN5-41 mounting bolts must be tightened fully to compress the rubber anti-vibration > mounts (MT04) onto the steel spacers (MT03). > > Regards > Roland > PH-ZTI > XS TG 914 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464062#464062 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2016
Hi Roland, I have got an engine lift if you need to borrow one. Barry -------- Barry Tennant D-EHBT At EDLM - Germany Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464077#464077 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Dec 18, 2016
Kingsley, yes - good advise. Seems like I'll have to be more careful with my power :-) Barry, thanks for your offer, but my mechanic in Venlo also has a lift. I guess that Christoph ade a good suggestion to change one vertical pair first, provided that one gets enough movement and space to insert the MT04's on the opposite side. However it should be a good idea to secure the engine with a lift. Regards Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464078#464078 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2016
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
Kingsley is right. I did some research many years ago, I found that the Eur opa supplied rubbers were much harder than the Rotax supplied ones (I was t rying to reduce engine noise levels). Apparently Europa were supplied by a differnet manufacturer and hardness was notthe same. I used the softerones eventually and adjusted the engine alignment by using washers between the engine mount and the fuselage frame. I remember that l onger bolts were needed.Graham On Sunday, 18 December 2016, 9:08, Kingsley Hurst wrote: u> Roland, The purpose of the sleeve is to act as a spacer so that the rubbers are com pressed to the correct amount and no more. There is no need for the nuts to be torqued as such in this application. Once the nut starts to lock up because of the spacer taking the load, turn the nut only enough then to align the first castellation for the split pin. In fact, depending on how it feels, it might be best to back off the nut t o the first available castellation. Regards Kingsley in Oz. Sent from my iPhone > On 18 Dec. 2016, at 7:13 am, Roland wrote: > > > One more question: last time when we installed the rubber mounts, we mana ged to compress not only the MT04's but also the MT03 steel-spacers with wh ich to me seemed like a reasonable torque, so that I also had to order new MT03's from Europa. > > Although the MT04 should be fully compressed on the MT03 spacers I'd like to avoid to again damage the MT03's by overtorquing for obvious reasons. > > Any suggestions as to how to make it right? The installation manual only states "tightened fully": > > Note: > The 4 AN5-41 mounting bolts must be tightened fully to compress the rubbe r anti-vibration > mounts (MT04) onto the steel spacers (MT03). > > Regards > Roland > PH-ZTI > XS TG 914 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464062#464062 > > > > > > > > > =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. S - WIKI - - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 18, 2016
Many thanks for that Alan. Looking forward to seeing you next year. Peter From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Burrill Sent: 17 December 2016 18:35 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Door Hinge Brian, Pete and Rowland and here is the full mod I downloaded. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic cowls, with XS oil & water radiators? Buy ne
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2016
Would be good to see Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464084#464084 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
From: "Clive Sutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2016
Gents, in case its useful a pic of the gas strut mechanism installed on kit 121 (which i now own and is registered as G-YETI). I am also in receipt of recent correspondence from Andy Draper who accepts this as 'Trivial' on the basis that the function of the strut is unchanged by this MOD. Regards, Clive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464158#464158 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/my_version_teds_door_stay_on_table_003_991.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: NARCO COM 810 + TSO radio tray plug wiring
From: "jonathanmilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Dec 18, 2016
Does anyone have the plug pin connection instructions for this old radio? The display on mine has failed after 19 years and I must replace the radio with a new 8.33 KHz channel spaced model. Someone very kindly sent me this information after I mistakenly told him that my old radio is a NARCO COM 810 TSO, when in fact the 810 + has the difference of one less plug pin connection. His was a 12 x 2 way connector, whereas mine is 11 x 2 way. Strange that the + version should have one less pin! Only a few of the wires in my airframe loom have identification labels, so if someone could provide me with more accurate info, it would save a lot of difficulty involved in tracing wires. I know this is a long shot, but I'm constantly amazed by the help to found in our forum. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464162#464162 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2016
From: "ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net" <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
Clive, Care to share the critical dimensions? i.e. the centre-to-centre distances between the three pivots; assuming the standard shorter plastic ball ends have been used? Rgds., Duncan McF. ----Original Message---- From: clive.maf(at)googlemail.com Date: 18/12/2016 20:37 Subj: Europa-List: Re: Door Hinge Gents, in case its useful a pic of the gas strut mechanism installed on kit 121 (which i now own and is registered as G-YETI). I am also in receipt of recent correspondence from Andy Draper who accepts this as 'Trivial' on the basis that the function of the strut is unchanged by this MOD. Regards, Clive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464158#464158 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/my_version_teds_door_stay_on_table_003_991.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
From: "Clive Sutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2016
Duncan, certainly: Centres between upper/door attachment end and hinge is 240mm Centres between lower/fuselage arm attachment end and hinge is 227mm Lower arm attachment and the rod end of the gas strut share the same location Other/thicker end of the gas strut is placed 38mm from the hinge centre on the door arm Do bear in mind that the strut mechanisms are 'handed' per side Actually (and complete credit should go to Gerry for this) i have a pattern/mockup mechanism as image below. If the Europa Club would like to put it on their 'inventory' of useful stuff/tools, i would be happy to donate it. In the first instance though i will be posting it to Roger Lloyd - who go there first! Hope it helps Clive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464192#464192 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine rubber mounts
From: "Rick Moss" <Rkwmoss(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 20, 2016
Add me to this list.... Fitted new Europa-supplied MT4's earlier this year; my spinner is now 5-10mm lower. Will speak to Karen.... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464227#464227 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 22, 2016
Subject: Plexi delamination.
I have a good bond everywhere except an are about 1.5 inches long but about 1/2 inch which is to say that I have 1.5 inches with just 1/4 inch of bond. This is on the forward edge of the door plexi. I tried drilling and injecting from the back but it appears it's not a void but a de-lamination and the glue wont flow in. So what I was thinking it to do a 2 ply lay up over the joint between the door and the forward edge of the plexi ith araldite forming the the bond between the bid and the plexi. Does anyone have a comment on this? Thanks Will HJ 460 PS started the engine/airmaster over the weekend with the Dynon connected everything works! And my 14 year project has a name "HJ 460" and I have a trailer. William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plexi delamination.
From: "SPURPURA" <SPURPURA(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 22, 2016
I would not worry about it,sounds like a small anomaly.If it becomes a problem later then you can repair it. -------- N951EU - Tri-gear & 912ULS I'D RATHER HAVE A BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME THAN A FRONTAL LABOTAMY. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=464249#464249 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean" <daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Europa XS 2005 for sale
Date: Dec 22, 2016
I'd like to inform all that N284A Europa XS 2005 is for sale. When built there was over $95,000 in the build. Basic list of features 914 rotax turbocharged 700 hours Airmaster constant speed prop Panel was just rehabed with removable panels Electric flaps, electric elev trim and electric aileron trim Flap, elev and aileron trim indicators Dynon D10A Efis with two autopilot servos autopilot has bluetooth for gps (currently using with andriod tablet with avare software Backup altimeter, altitude, airspeed and vert speed round instraments All UMA engine instruments Intercom Bendix/king KX125 Comm/VOR Garmin GTX 327 transponder 125 knot cruise on 5.5 ghp autogas Repainted in 2010 Asking $45,000 US Reasonable offers considered Email daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com for pictures and additional information ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gccole13(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 21, 2016
Number two =93 The stay open on dining room table. From: Brian Davies Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 1:47 PM Subject: Europa-List: Door Hinge Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of the spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? Regards Brian Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gccole13(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 21, 2016
Number three Door stay installed. Please note the tight fit. My notes will explain. From: Brian Davies Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 1:47 PM Subject: Europa-List: Door Hinge Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of the spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? Regards Brian Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gccole13(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Door Hinge
Date: Dec 21, 2016
Number four. Installed and connected to a open door. ( I see that the door was not fully open in this shot =93 the one behind is fully open. It is important to get the stops on the stay middle pivot just right so that the gas strut does not foul the lower half of the stay. From: Brian Davies Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 1:47 PM Subject: Europa-List: Door Hinge Many moons ago someone posted a door strut mechanism that removed all of the spring strut force from the door when it was closed. Does anyone have a link or drawing of the design? Regards Brian Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2016
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: 2016 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, The 2016 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of weeks ago and it's time that I published this year's List of Contributors. It is the people on this list that directly make these Email Lists and Forums possible! Their generous Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running! You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I also want to thank Andy, Bob, George, and Jon for their generous support through the supply of many great gifts this year!! These guys have some excellent products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites: Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - http://www.aeroelectric.com George Race - Race Consulting - http://www.mrrace.com Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com And finally, I'm proud to present The 2016 Fund Raiser List of Contributors: http://www.matronics.com/loc/2016.html Thank you again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List & Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Raimo Toivio <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: A little Europa Christmas Day Flight 2016
Date: Dec 25, 2016
Hello! I did perform today my traditional Xmas flight and wanna share this story with you. Normally I have flown my special four seater (actually 2+2) Europa with my family (wife & two daughters), but this time they elected to stay home - they know too much and did not like that snowing. My wife has always had an ability to say "no" if she feels so. For my teenagers (12&15) its today natural. Our dog and cat fly happily, but I did not asked them to join. Went this time alone. Uh! I drove to EFTP Tampere, which is 20 km from us. When I got the plane out from hangar, it was a heavy snowing. Despite of that I decided to "try". Took of 24 and instantly I got a medium feeling "better to land immeadialely". So I did. I towed my RT back to hangar and it took all together say one hour. When coming out, weather was better. I even saw some blue sky there and there. But it was sunset, UTC in Finland here today is 1508. I considerred a while, took my plane again out and so off we went! By the way, it was a little strange feeling, because this airport EFTP, which is the 2nd largest in Finland, is closed always during The Christmas Day. I was totally alone there and untowered. Maybe that was better. So I flew during the twilight time home to EFRT, which took 5 minuts. I made several warning circuits over our field, becaus my girls were there horse riding with our Dakota, a black stallion. I landed to 30, which is a grass strip 300 metres long. Wind 200 12 kn G22. Muddy. Temperature 0. QNH 9002 mbar. Tailwind was not a problem, only moderate braking actions was needed before the road. What a wonderful aircraft we have! I have landed here also several times w C172 but thats painfull! I taxied home and there my family was waiting their father. My wife tried to keep her faces calm, but I noticed she was a bit upset and thats good. Almost always when so, next night will be real wild!!! I have to say that was not my only reason to fly today. Actually I liked the action - flying - itself also. Time was fast running and I took of almost instantly runway 21, which is just 200 metres long. Its enough for me and my Europa (912S w Airmaster and "some" mods). Upp in the air it was say 120 metres with the aid of that moderaty opposite wind and low temp. Then I flew direct to the Tampere City and made a not-so-low low pass over the Christmas Market (transponder off, inside the CTR but possible because EFTP was closed). Then joining a long final of EFTP 24. I love long finals, somehow during them, time stands still, you know. If honest, I would like to be forever in the long finals. Now you know me. There I was again. Home. Home of my beloved Europa. It started again snowing but no matter, mission accomplished! Time was 1531 as you can see from the UTC GPS coupled time&temp display. And please notice the Europa logo over it! Someone may notice the wing inside the hangar. OH-U666 (formerly known as SE-VAY). Thats my wifes aircraft LamcoCub, its origin a Canadian bushplane which we bought from Sweden, Stockholm couple of years ago. It happened so, that I crashed it totally this fall. Uh! Landed to EFTP during perfect conditions, for touch and go. With full power just before take off she decided to ground loop super tightly counterclockwise. I had just installed a new tail wheel into it, Maule original. My wise wife said please no no. Thats a normal tailwheel, but when taxiing slowly and using differential brake, it goes free. That happened during my take off, because of the prop circulation effect. It went free w/o contact, hello my balls! The right gear was collapsed, the right wing destroyed, and also, because of the strut, the fuselage went node. Both tanks went broken and there I was in the plane, when 80 litres of the fuel poured out. I was ok, and went flying instantly with my Europa. I have to do so, and you know why! What a strong ac! Very strange it was, that prop & engine were ok!? If the propeller should be rotated, it would have been 40 cm in the ground. Obviously I have (no recollection) shut down the magnetos during the action, which was really fast. Unfortunately we had no insurance - written out. Thats why I have to build it airborne - will be next spring airborne! Yes! Someone should obviously wash the plane - EFRT was really muddy. I towed her again to her hangar, said goodby and drove home. I really can say that I love this machine!


October 17, 2016 - December 25, 2016

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