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nded >> Did you replace the outer as well as the inner cables? >> What thickness is the required inner piano wire? >> Where do you obtain the piano wire? >> Did you use the existing fittings on the ends of the cables inside the th rottle box? if so, how did you do the change over from the original strande d inner to the solid inner? >> Any photos would be welcomed too please. >> >> Thank you in anticipation >> >> Kingsley in Oz >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 14, 2020
Kingsley, I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my own firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and inserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lever, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchased from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the bushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Weld. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 17+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. Regards, Erich N28ET Classic Mono 914 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Challis <cakeykev(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re : IFR certification
Date: Jun 16, 2020
I did my imc training in my trigear No problems at all. I know some aircraft are more stable but to say it=99s not a good IFR a ircraft is not what I have found. Kevin Challis G ODJG > On 16 Jun 2020, at 18:06, Pete wrote: > > =EF=BB > Great write-up Paul, thx! > > Question, why not leave the gear up till minimums to keep the speed up? > >>> On Jun 16, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Paul McAllister wrote: >>> >> =EF=BB >> Hi John, >> >> I hope you don't mind me offering a counter opinion. I didn't find my Eur opa a very good IFR platform. It was okay but I always maintained high pers onal minimum, 600' on the ILS and 800' for non precision approaches. I live in the mid west of the US and icing was always a concern. While one should n ever fly into know icing conditions I had inadvertently picked up ice in ot her aircraft I have flown and although concerning the aircraft performed wel l enough to land it. Even then I new that all that had happened was "I got a way with it" >> >> I did catch a small skim of ice on the Europa once and the aircraft immed iately lost 20 knots and I was worried that it would just quit flying there a nd then! A flapless landing in a mono isn't possible and I was really (real ly) nervous lowing the gear. I know we can all say that we should avoid ici ng conditions but I encountered unforcasted ice many times. Over the years I got smarter at figuring out potential or possible conditions but I could ne ver get comfortable. The other challenge is that its slow approach speed is n't an advantage for instrument approaches. You feel like you are hanging ou t on the ILS forever in wet moist clouds. >> >> I haven't flown my aircraft for some time but in latter years all my IFR f lying was in VFR conditions. It is nice to be able to fly away from somewher e crummy to somewhere nice, and I find the National Aerospace System (NAS) a delight to use. >> >> Just my 2 cents worth, and as they say "Your mileage may vary" >> >> Cheers, Paul >> >> >> >>> On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 10:24 AM John Wigney wrote: >>> Hi Jeff, >>> >>> There is a good link on this subject at https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft -building/intro-to-aircraft-building/frequently-asked-questions/equipping-a- homebuilt-for-ifr-operations >>> >>> I am not an IFR pilot but I have done 40 plus hours of training in my mo nowheel. My instructor was very happy with the plane and called it "a good I FR platform". I chose not to take the check ride as I decided not to fly sin gle pilot IFR. A major reason for that is that I found the plane to be fairl y neutral on heading and I was not happy to find myself 10 to 15 degrees off course if I groped around in the back for something. I have now fitted a he ading autopilot driven by my Dynon D10A which works very well following the p ink line on my Garmin 430 so that addresses that primary concern. I really h ave no need for IFR and am happy to leave it that way. >>> >>> Anyway, I am not aware of any certification requirement apart from an en try in the logbook regarding compliance with 14 CFR Part 91, section 91.205 . >>> >>> Cheers, John >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net> >>> >>> Subject: Europa-List: IFR certification Good morning all, I'm wondering i f someone out there has any information on certifying the Europa for IFR fli ght (in the USA). Is there a statement in the operating limitations that mig ht mention this? I've a person interested in my bird who is asking about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, >>> >>> -- Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 14, 2020
Kingsley, I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my own firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and inserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lever, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchased from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the bushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Weld. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 17+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. Regards, Erich N28ET Classic Mono 914 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 14, 2020
Subject: N460HJ wouldnt start this am
I should think that i had been flying several times with this. This is 50hours after a hundred hour check. The engine which was zero hours had been sitting for about 8 years before i installed it William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 15, 2020
Kingsley, I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my own firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and inserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lever, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchased from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the bushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Weld. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 17+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. Regards, Erich N28ET Classic Mono 914 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Re: N460HJ wouldnt start this am
Date: Jun 16, 2020
Wow! Should be part of the 5 year rubber service? Lucky you didnt burn any cyls? How were your egts? (Or did it just open up all of a sudden?) Another thing for me to watch for (spares are on my shelf). Cheers > On Jun 16, 2020, at 3:54 PM, William Daniell wrote: > > > I should think that i had been flying several times with this. > > This is 50hours after a hundred hour check. > > The engine which was zero hours had been sitting for about 8 years before i installed it > > William Daniell > +1 786 878 0246 > <20200614_130803.jpg> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 16, 2020
Subject: Re: N460HJ wouldnt start this am
Well pete interesting that you mentioned that... yes it is and no it was about the only thing i didn't change. The colombian knowledge based on every climate from temperate to tropical is that rotax carb rubbers are known to fail in hot country. Rotax motors are used and abused (they use them for crop dusting in mxp savannah) in ways that would make most of us blench and giving me a great deal of confidence in rotax engines. the knowledge about what fails and doesnt fail is based on real life. Btw i live in miami. And yes...very, very lucky. I think cyl burn could have been the best outcome. The worst doesn't bear thinking about. I posted it so that everyone can learn through my mistake. Henceforth i shall change every other year and follow buds advice to check closely every 25 hours. Will William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 16:33 Pete wrote: > > Wow! Should be part of the =9C5 year rubber=9D service? > > Lucky you didnt burn any cyl=99s? How were your egt=99s? (Or did it just open > up all of a sudden?) > > Another thing for me to watch for (spares are on my shelf). > > Cheers > > > On Jun 16, 2020, at 3:54 PM, William Daniell < > wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > =EF=BB > > I should think that i had been flying several times with this. > > > > This is 50hours after a hundred hour check. > > > > The engine which was zero hours had been sitting for about 8 years > before i installed it > > > > William Daniell > > +1 786 878 0246 > > <20200614_130803.jpg> > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 16, 2020
Subject: Re: Re : IFR certification
Pete, for a while I did my practice currency this way. I could actually fly an approach at 90 knots and still get it slow enough to get the gear out and land. The trouble with this was that you only needed the slightest distraction and you would be joining the ranks of =9Cthose who have =9D The other challenge is that it was rare to break out in the clear, cloud bottoms would be straggly and when you are at minimums you have to quickly decide if the RVR is sufficient, you have enough of the environment in view and the the runway will provide enough breaking action. To be honest I always found single pilot IFR really tough and during my brief stint of professional flying I thought I had died and gone to heaven with 2 crew operations. Just my 2 cents worth. Cheers, Paul On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 12:06 PM Pete wrote: > Great write-up Paul, thx! > > Question, why not leave the gear up till minimums to keep the speed up? > > On Jun 16, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Paul McAllister > wrote: > > =EF=BB > Hi John, > > I hope you don't mind me offering a counter opinion. I didn't find my > Europa a very good IFR platform. It was okay but I always maintained hig h > personal minimum, 600' on the ILS and 800' for non precision approaches. I > live in the mid west of the US and icing was always a concern. While one > should never fly into know icing conditions I had inadvertently picked up > ice in other aircraft I have flown and although concerning the aircraft > performed well enough to land it. Even then I new that all that had > happened was "I got away with it" > > I did catch a small skim of ice on the Europa once and the aircraft > immediately lost 20 knots and I was worried that it would just quit flyin g > there and then! A flapless landing in a mono isn't possible and I was > really (really) nervous lowing the gear. I know we can all say that we > should avoid icing conditions but I encountered unforcasted ice many > times. Over the years I got smarter at figuring out potential or possibl e > conditions but I could never get comfortable. The other challenge is tha t > its slow approach speed isn't an advantage for instrument approaches. You > feel like you are hanging out on the ILS forever in wet moist clouds. > > I haven't flown my aircraft for some time but in latter years all my IFR > flying was in VFR conditions. It is nice to be able to fly away from > somewhere crummy to somewhere nice, and I find the National Aerospace > System (NAS) a delight to use. > > Just my 2 cents worth, and as they say "Your mileage may vary" > > Cheers, Paul > > > On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 10:24 AM John Wigney > wrote: > >> Hi Jeff, >> >> There is a good link on this subject at >> https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/intro-to-aircraft-building/fre quently-asked-questions/equipping-a-homebuilt-for-ifr-operations >> >> I am not an IFR pilot but I have done 40 plus hours of training in my >> monowheel. My instructor was very happy with the plane and called it "a >> good IFR platform". I chose not to take the check ride as I decided not to >> fly single pilot IFR. A major reason for that is that I found the plane to >> be fairly neutral on heading and I was not happy to find myself 10 to 15 >> degrees off course if I groped around in the back for something. I have now >> fitted a heading autopilot driven by my Dynon D10A which works very well >> following the pink line on my Garmin 430 so that addresses that primary >> concern. I really have no need for IFR and am happy to leave it that way . >> >> Anyway, I am not aware of any certification requirement apart from an >> entry in the logbook regarding compliance with 14 CFR Part 91, section >> 91.205. >> >> Cheers, John >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From: Jeff B **<topglock(at)cox.net> <topglock(at)cox.net>* >> >> *Subject: Europa-List: IFR certification Good morning all, I'm wondering >> if someone out there has any information on certifying the Europa for IF R >> flight (in the USA). Is there a statement in the operating limitations t hat >> might mention this? I've a person interested in my bird who is asking ab out >> it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, * >> *-- Jeff * >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Re: Re : IFR certification
Date: Jun 16, 2020
Pretty valuable pennies! Thx! Pete :) > On Jun 16, 2020, at 8:26 PM, Paul McAllister w rote: > > =EF=BB > Pete, for a while I did my practice currency this way. I could actually fl y an approach at 90 knots and still get it slow enough to get the gear out a nd land. The trouble with this was that you only needed the slightest distra ction and you would be joining the ranks of =9Cthose who have=9D > > The other challenge is that it was rare to break out in the clear, cloud b ottoms would be straggly and when you are at minimums you have to quickly de cide if the RVR is sufficient, you have enough of the environment in view an d the the runway will provide enough breaking action. > > To be honest I always found single pilot IFR really tough and during my br ief stint of professional flying I thought I had died and gone to heaven wit h 2 crew operations. > > Just my 2 cents worth. Cheers, Paul > >> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 12:06 PM Pete wrote: >> Great write-up Paul, thx! >> >> Question, why not leave the gear up till minimums to keep the speed up? >> >>>> On Jun 16, 2020, at 12:46 PM, Paul McAllister wrote: >>>> >>> =EF=BB >>> Hi John, >>> >>> I hope you don't mind me offering a counter opinion. I didn't find my Eu ropa a very good IFR platform. It was okay but I always maintained high per sonal minimum, 600' on the ILS and 800' for non precision approaches. I liv e in the mid west of the US and icing was always a concern. While one should never fly into know icing conditions I had inadvertently picked up ice in o ther aircraft I have flown and although concerning the aircraft performed we ll enough to land it. Even then I new that all that had happened was "I got a way with it" >>> >>> I did catch a small skim of ice on the Europa once and the aircraft imme diately lost 20 knots and I was worried that it would just quit flying there and then! A flapless landing in a mono isn't possible and I was really (re ally) nervous lowing the gear. I know we can all say that we should avoid i cing conditions but I encountered unforcasted ice many times. Over the year s I got smarter at figuring out potential or possible conditions but I could never get comfortable. The other challenge is that its slow approach speed isn't an advantage for instrument approaches. You feel like you are hanging out on the ILS forever in wet moist clouds. >>> >>> I haven't flown my aircraft for some time but in latter years all my IFR flying was in VFR conditions. It is nice to be able to fly away from somewh ere crummy to somewhere nice, and I find the National Aerospace System (NAS) a delight to use. >>> >>> Just my 2 cents worth, and as they say "Your mileage may vary" >>> >>> Cheers, Paul >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 10:24 AM John Wigney wrote: >>>> Hi Jeff, >>>> >>>> There is a good link on this subject at https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraf t-building/intro-to-aircraft-building/frequently-asked-questions/equipping-a -homebuilt-for-ifr-operations >>>> >>>> I am not an IFR pilot but I have done 40 plus hours of training in my m onowheel. My instructor was very happy with the plane and called it "a good I FR platform". I chose not to take the check ride as I decided not to fly sin gle pilot IFR. A major reason for that is that I found the plane to be fairl y neutral on heading and I was not happy to find myself 10 to 15 degrees off course if I groped around in the back for something. I have now fitted a he ading autopilot driven by my Dynon D10A which works very well following the p ink line on my Garmin 430 so that addresses that primary concern. I really h ave no need for IFR and am happy to leave it that way. >>>> >>>> Anyway, I am not aware of any certification requirement apart from an e ntry in the logbook regarding compliance with 14 CFR Part 91, section 91.20 5. >>>> >>>> Cheers, John >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net> >>>> >>>> Subject: Europa-List: IFR certification Good morning all, I'm wondering if someone out there has any information on certifying the Europa for IFR f light (in the USA). Is there a statement in the operating limitations that m ight mention this? I've a person interested in my bird who is asking about i t. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, >>>> >>>> -- Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Fittings
Date: Jun 17, 2020
I hope to find two of these fuel tank outlet fittings originally produced for Graham Singleton in mod 10823. Please message me direct if you can help. Many thanks, Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Hello Paul. My query about solid strand cable was just that . . . . a query. I have never had an issue with kinking. While my mate and I were working on the carbs recently, we damaged a cable and I was only considering replacment with the solid wire arrangement. I have now purchased some Teflon lined bicycle brake cable with stranded inners, am in the process of reusing the end fittings inside the throttle housing and have practiced (on the old cable) cutting the inner cable using the twist weld method referenced on the list recently by Ron Parigoris. I must say the twist weld method works brilliantly to stop fraying and adds no thickness at all to the cable end making it a breeze to insert in the clamps at the carby end. Thank you for your concern Paul, much appreciated. Best Kingsley On 16.06.20 6:33 am, Paul McAllister wrote: > Kingsley, mate I hope you don't mind me saying but you are trying to > fix something that isn't broken. :) > > I had great success by shortening my cables to a more appropriate > length and over the years there hasn't been a hint of an issue with > kinking. > > Cheers, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most concerned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. Best regards Kingsley On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: > > Kingsley, > > I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my > own firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted > wire and inserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to > the throttle lever, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. > Both items were purchased from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end > of the Bowden cable around the bushing forming a closed question mark > (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Weld. Attach the cable to the > throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 17+ years of trouble > free operation. Works a treat. > > Regards, > > Erich > > N28ET Classic Mono 914 > > Main Image > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N460HJ wouldnt start this am
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Will, The photo isn't visible. What failed? Thanks Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496877#496877 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Re: N460HJ wouldnt start this am
Jim Ah ok the matronics server stopped it. The rubber carb flange....almost completely separated. So when it would start i opened up the cowling and having checked the plugs and ignition was just about the pull the float bowls off when the carb came off in my hand as it were. I must have landed with it close to that state. I can only guess that the induction suction plus the turbo airbox kept the carb on in flight. Will William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 On Wed, Jun 17, 2020, 06:59 h&jeuropa wrote: > > Will, > > The photo isn't visible. What failed? > > Thanks > > Jim > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496877#496877 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Fittings
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Roger, If you can't find them in the UK, I'm pretty certain I have them. Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496882#496882 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Re : IFR certification
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
I think our IFR experience in our Europa is like Johns. Granted we mostly use IFR to climb or descend thru a cloud deck and for ATC services, especially in congested or unfamiliar airspace. Since there is no snow removal at our airport, we do not fly much in January or February. However, we have found our Europa carries ice without adversely changing the performance. Obviously we try to avoid icing and usually do. We have a conventional heated pitot which draws about 8 amps but with our modified voltage regulator, we have capacity so it can be used if necessary. There are more efficient pitots available today. Since fitting an adjustable cowl flap, cabin heat and windscreen defogging is much less a problem than originally. Jim, with the guidance of his regular CFII, has developed detailed IFR procedures that provide consistent results. He flies approaches frequently enough to maintain legal proficiency and he now completes both a Biannual Flight Review and Instrument Proficiency Check every twelve months (helps with insurance). Our Europa flies hands off when properly trimmed (both pitch and aileron trim) and we have no autopilot, so all piloting is by hand. Approaches are flown at cruise settings until reaching the Final Approach Fix (FAF) at which point the airplane is changed to landing configuration (gear/flaps down, power and pitch for appropriate rate of descent (usually 500 fpm) and 60 kts). Having an EFIS makes the mechanics of approaches easier because the information is presented efficiently. The velocity vector feature of our GRT EFIS reduces chasing the needles. Our navigation source is a Garmin GNS 430, so all approaches are setup and performed in a similar manner. Understanding how the GNS 430 operates and having the skill to use its features is key to IFR flight. Jim & Heather Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496887#496887 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N460HJ wouldnt start this am
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Replacement of the rubber carb flange is called out in the 5 year rubber replacement instruction. There was a revision to the flange that is noted in SB 914-019 R1. Brett from Leading Edge Air Foils suggested we replace the rubber pad under the expansion tank. It is part no. 860 826. Indeed, when we got it out the old one was rotted. Jim & Heather Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496888#496888 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Fittings
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Hi Jim, Awesome. Does that mean you seriously considered alu fuel lines then chose not to!! I see pro=99s & cons to both systems. What is super disappointing is the fuel smell I get using Gates Barricade from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498G5QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_ o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I sometimes wonder if it is counterfeit? A UK supplier shows white liner which is not noticeable on my hose. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/fuel-hose-gates-barricade-ethanol-proof-5-16 -id-per-metre-gfh1031x.html Your opinions are of interest! Regards, Roger. PS Flew my classic into RAF Waddington today, launch point for the dam buster raids! > On 17 Jun 2020, at 16:43, h&jeuropa wrote: > > > Roger, > > If you can't find them in the UK, I'm pretty certain I have them. > > Jim > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496882#496882 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
This is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one of the cabl e connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye, hanging b y threads! So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to sol id wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a new cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircraf t spruce. For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be wo rth a look. Thanks for any further thoughts. Jerry Mono 914 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst wro te: > > =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conce rned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. > > Best regards > Kingsley > > On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >> Kingsley, >> >> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my ow n firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >> >> Regards, >> Erich >> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
This is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one of the cabl e connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye, hanging b y threads! So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to sol id wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a new cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircraf t spruce. For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be wo rth a look. Thanks for any further thoughts. Jerry Mono 914 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst wro te: > > =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conce rned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. > > Best regards > Kingsley > > On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >> Kingsley, >> >> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my ow n firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >> >> Regards, >> Erich >> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
This is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one of the cabl e connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye, hanging b y threads! So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to sol id wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a new cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircraf t spruce. For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be wo rth a look. Thanks for any further thoughts. Jerry Mono 914 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst wro te: > > =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conce rned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. > > Best regards > Kingsley > > On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >> Kingsley, >> >> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my ow n firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >> >> Regards, >> Erich >> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
This is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one of the cabl e connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye, hanging b y threads! So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to sol id wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a new cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircraf t spruce. For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be wo rth a look. Thanks for any further thoughts. Jerry Mono 914 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst wro te: > > =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conce rned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. > > Best regards > Kingsley > > On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >> Kingsley, >> >> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my ow n firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >> >> Regards, >> Erich >> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
This is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one of the cabl e connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye, hanging b y threads! So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to sol id wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a new cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircraf t spruce. For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be wo rth a look. Thanks for any further thoughts. Jerry Mono 914 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst wro te: > > =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conce rned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. > > Best regards > Kingsley > > On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >> Kingsley, >> >> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my ow n firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >> >> Regards, >> Erich >> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
This is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one of the cabl e connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye, hanging b y threads! So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to sol id wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a new cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircraf t spruce. For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be wo rth a look. Thanks for any further thoughts. Jerry Mono 914 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst wro te: > > =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conce rned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. > > Best regards > Kingsley > > On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >> Kingsley, >> >> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my ow n firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >> >> Regards, >> Erich >> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 17, 2020
This is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one of the cabl e connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye, hanging b y threads! So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to sol id wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a new cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircraf t spruce. For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be wo rth a look. Thanks for any further thoughts. Jerry Mono 914 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst wro te: > > =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conce rned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. > > Best regards > Kingsley > > On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >> Kingsley, >> >> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my ow n firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >> >> Regards, >> Erich >> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Date: Jun 18, 2020
Hello Jerry, Do you stutter mate? Just joking . . . . . your post came through seven times on the list! Since only one cable was frayed, I suspect the TH03 fitting was binding on the sleeve on which it should pivot freely. This would cause the fitting to flex the cable at the end of the crimp as it appears it has done. I further imagine that in cold countries like yours that after a winter lay-up, any grease on the fitting could become quite sticky and may well be the culprit. Best regards Kingsley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com>
Date: Jun 17, 2020
Subject: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire)
Sent again, looks like it bounced on my end, sorry if this is repeat. Sent from my iPad Begin forwarded message: > From: Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com> > Date: June 17, 2020 at 5:05:58 PM PDT > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle cables with solid inner (piano wire) > Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > =EF=BBThis is timely! My inspection of the throttle box discovered one o f the cable connections was very frayed right at the TH03 throttle cable eye , hanging by threads! > So I am looking at my options to stay with a similar install or going to s olid wire. I imagine to stay =9Cstock=9DI will need to order a n ew cable with the TH03 cable eye connected assuming they are available? > Other wise going Erich=99s route, which allows me to order via aircr aft spruce. > For those of you who haven=99t inspected this for a while, might be w orth a look. > Thanks for any further thoughts. > Jerry > Mono 914 > > Sent from my iPad > >>> On Jun 17, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Kingsley Hurst w rote: >>> >> =EF=BB Thank you Erich, you have answered the question I was most conc erned about. Please see my reply to Paul McAllister. >> >> Best regards >> Kingsley >> >> On 15.06.20 2:24 am, erichdtrombley(at)juno.com wrote: >>> Kingsley, >>> >>> I used solid stainless steel Bowden wire, .078" diameter. As I did my o wn firewall forward I purchased bicycle cable, removed the twisted wire and i nserted the solid Bowden wire. Regarding the connection to the throttle lev er, I used AN111 Cable bushings as pictured below. Both items were purchase d from Aircraft Spruce. Simply bend the end of the Bowden cable around the b ushing forming a closed question mark (?) and secure it with Redux or JB Wel d. Attach the cable to the throttle lever as per the Europa instructions. 1 7+ years of trouble free operation. Works a treat. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Erich >>> N28ET Classic Mono 914 >>> >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Propeller? Gearbox? Wow-wow-wow
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jun 18, 2020
The title more or less says it all! The engine is a 912ULS with 600 hours total and the propeller is an Airmaster which is serviced/greased every 100 hours as specified and is well balanced. The carburettors are regularly checked with a CarbMate electronic synchroniser and maintained as perfectly matched as possible. The aircraft is delightfully smooth to fly, yet there is a "fly in the ointment". During the last 50 hours or so of flying, a constant "wow-wow-wow" sound, akin to that of a piston twin aircraft with unmatched rpm, has gradually increased. For most flights since the sound first appeared I could level off in the cruise, select "Manual" on the propeller control and reduce engine speed to about 4700 rpm, which reduced the sound oscillation to almost nil. But recently it has become more intrusive, to the extent that further reduction of engine rpm doesn't eliminate the problem. So I'm thinking of removing the gearbox and getting it checked over professionally, in case the dogs or their springs could be the culprits. By the way whenever I do the friction torque check, it always results in a reading of around 45 to 50 N-m. Within the last approx. 20 flying hours I've replaced 2 exhaust springs in different locations, which might be indicative of undesirable vibrations Any advice please before I resort to gearbox removal. I've done it before and know what's involved, but if you believe that it might be a wasted exercise please tell me soon, thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496910#496910 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Fittings
Date: Jun 18, 2020
Whoops that was meant to go direct, not to the list. > On 17 Jun 2020, at 21:06, Roger Sheridan wrote: > > Hi Jim, > > Awesome. > > Does that mean you seriously considered alu fuel lines then chose not to!! > > I see pro=99s & cons to both systems. > > What is super disappointing is the fuel smell I get using Gates Barricade from Amazon > > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498G5QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_ o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 > > I sometimes wonder if it is counterfeit? > > A UK supplier shows white liner which is not noticeable on my hose. > > https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/fuel-hose-gates-barricade-ethanol-proof-5-16 -id-per-metre-gfh1031x.html > > Your opinions are of interest! > > Regards, > > Roger. > > PS Flew my classic into RAF Waddington today, launch point for the dam buster raids! > > > >> On 17 Jun 2020, at 16:43, h&jeuropa > wrote: >> > >> >> Roger, >> >> If you can't find them in the UK, I'm pretty certain I have them. >> >> Jim >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496882#496882 <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496882#496882> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Fittings
Date: Jun 18, 2020
On 2020-06-17, at 11:08, Roger Sheridan wrote: > I hope to find two of these fuel tank outlet fittings originally produced for Graham Singleton in mod 10823. Roger - I turned up my own versions of these from aluminium bar stock - see: http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/aviation/europa_435/making_tank_adaptors.p hp and http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/aviation/europa_435/tank_adaptors.php and http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/aviation/europa_435/tank_adaptor_c_fitted. php Sorry, I don=99t feel I want to spend the time on making them again just now, but if you are really stuck I might consider it! Alternatively, if you know of or can find a model engineering society in your neighbourhood one of those guys might be happy to do the job for you. I attach my dimensioned drawings of the 3 slightly different adaptors I made. I didn=99t bother to mill flats on them as I didn=99t have a milling machine at that time and (although possible) it would have been a bit tedious doing the milling on the lathe. Hope this is of some use. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Jun 19, 2020
Jonathan, I do not think your gearbox could cause your problem. The cause may be a bug in the propeller controller. I would ask Airmaster for advice. Good luck Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496919#496919 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Biax Material for Europa classic wing
From: "TobiK" <tobi.karrasch94(at)web.de>
Date: Jun 19, 2020
Hey Guys, I am actually building an Europa classic (blue foam) Wing. I am running out of material (biax cloth) and I would now like to buy some new. The problem is, I don't know what material the "biax" is. Does anyone of you can help me with a specification or typ of cloth? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496922#496922 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 19, 2020
Subject: West Systems for wing filling ??
Gidday, Over time I have found exposure to Ampreg products gave me flu type symptoms for a couple of days after use, so I have migrated to the West Systems 105/106 Resin/Hardner combination, with far less issues. I am wondering if others have used it for filling their aircraft, whether it sands well, or whether I should consider something else? I think at this stage Ill keep to an epoxy based filler, unless I get a compelling argument to use something else. Hoping to get some pearls of wisdom.... thanks in advance. Regards Tony Renshaw ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
From: "SPURPURA" <SPURPURA(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 19, 2020
Doubt that its propeller related. Try a stethoscope. If you have 600 hours on it, you may be ready for some gear box service. I had 700 hours on mine before getting rebuilt.Dont let it go too long as it is full of expensive parts. -------- N951EU - Tri-gear & 912ULS, N77EU- Mono & 914 I'D RATHER HAVE A BOTTLE IN FRONT OF ME THAN A FRONTAL LABOTAMY. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496924#496924 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Biax Material for Europa classic wing
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 19, 2020
Hi TobiK. I too built a classic but didn't have the biax cloth. I spoke with Andy D and he told me the very early kits (first 12 or so) used 2 layers of uni. When i was looking for the Biax cloth ito couldn't get the exact specs not even from the LAA. Good Luck Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496926#496926 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: West Systems for wing filling ??
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 19, 2020
Yes i to used the west system for the filling stage on the recommendation from Neville E, It sands much better then the ampreg. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496927#496927 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
From: "clivesutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Jun 19, 2020
Hi Jonathan, what you describe is 'Heterodyning' or 'Beat-frequency' created by the difference between two noise or vibration frequencies very close together. Do you have a recording on e.g. a mobile phone that i could listen to - along with the engine speeds in play at the time? And what about:- 1) How the frequency of 'wow-wow' change if you speed up or slow down the engine a bit? 2) How does the 'wow-wow' effect change with Airspeed? 3) the CS mode idea is viable too - does it occur when that is turned off/the prop is not trying to hunt for optimum speed vs pitch? It's impossible to say from just the description given, but assuming the above items make a significant difference, my initial suspicions would be one prop blade with a slightly different prop pitch to the others and/or blade tip tracking differences between blades. Both of those parameters should be quite easy to check on the ground (no engine running needed) and reporting any variation you find? Clive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496930#496930 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: West Systems for wing filling ??
Date: Jun 20, 2020
You do right Tony , I never had the flu symptoms but have down the years had other lung contaminants Passive smoking, Driving cranes under British Steel Blast Furnace Cast House Floor, Rode motor bike in heavy traffic long journeys, Built a Classing wing Europa With no MASK ever also had pneumonia twice at 3 months and 14 years, So I now have COPD (Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease)Which has every indication of taking about 5 years off my life which didn't matter then but focuses my mind now, particularly when attempting to build an oxygen Non invasive Ventilator !......because our glorious NHS has me under "house arrest" until Mid July ....but I can open a window !. They won't afford me one to stay home only when hospitalized or Care home ! But my oximeter says I'm mostly 94% but no more flying over Mont Blanc ! Best Wishes. Regards Bob H EX G-PTAG. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Renshaw Sent: 19 June 2020 12:40 Subject: Europa-List: West Systems for wing filling ?? Gidday, Over time I have found exposure to Ampreg products gave me flu type symptoms for a couple of days after use, so I have migrated to the West Systems 105/106 Resin/Hardner combination, with far less issues. I am wondering if others have used it for filling their aircraft, whether it sands well, or whether I should consider something else? I think at this stage Ill keep to an epoxy based filler, unless I get a compelling argument to use something else. Hoping to get some pearls of wisdom.... thanks in advance. Regards Tony Renshaw This email has been scanned by BullGuard antivirus protection. For more info visit www.bullguard.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jun 20, 2020
Hi Everyone, Thanks for all your replies with suggestions, several of which I'm now following up. After a thorough in depth investigation with engine cowls off, I've got a couple more things to try like unclamping the exhaust header tubes and moving the silencer slightly before tightening again. This is intended to move it a little further away from the air duct against which it might be vibrating in flight, when the engine leans over due to torque. Clive, my mobile 'phone is a Tesco 20 special, which only does calls and texts. The frequency of the 'wow-wow' doesn't seem to change when I vary rpm in the cruise, but then I'm only varying it by about 6%. I also can't say that I notice any change with airspeed. I switch the controller to manual during the cruise to reduce rpm from 5000 to 4700, so the CS function probably isn't a factor. Thanks for the pointer regarding one propeller blade tip tracking differently from the others. Although the wonderful Airmaster propeller which I've had for nigh on 20 years is virtually 'bomb proof', I'll definitely investigate. Best wishes, Jonathan. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496966#496966 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
From: "clivesutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Jun 20, 2020
Jonathan, a further investigation suggestion that you can do from the comfort of your home: 1) Download this free sound tool onto your PC: https://www.nch.com.au/tonegen/index.html 2) Create two sine tones and adjust one to be 1hz higher than the first (i used 440Hz + 441Hz). Play it and you might get the effect you are hearing in the aircraft. The Wow-Wow you hear is effectively the difference between the two frequencies so a 'Wow' repeats every 1 second in this case. Play with different frequencies to get the effect you experience . . . [Caveat - audio speakers and headphones are not that good at reproducing low frequencies - so the quality of what you hear may be affected by that factor] 3) For an engine running at 4700 RPM and a gearbox reduction of 2.43, the gearbox shaft is turning at 32.23 rotations per second at that RPM. That shaft has three prop blades bolted to it - so the frequency of pulsation from any one blade is 32.23 Hz and the frequency of pulsation from all three blades passing in front of you at 4700 RPM is 96.69 Hz. 4) based on this logic, if any one of those pulsations is higher or lower than the other 2 (as a result of e.g. tracking or different pitch setting of one blade) i suspect that might be your Wow-Wow source. I'm not sure this rules out your gearbox - but it's something to check Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496969#496969 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
From: "budyerly(at)msn.com" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Date: Jun 20, 2020
Jonathan, By putting the Airmaster in MANUAL mode the prop is fixed, so hunting of the prop is unlikely if the warble persists at any RPM. As for blade tracking, if the blades are still firm and not twisting, that rules out a tracking issue normally. I left some super thin painters tape on all three blades one time after a touch-up. I know, a good preflight and proper workmanship would have prevented this... I couldn't figure it and quickly took the brand new plane down to the dealer. After hauling the plane down to have the gearbox checked, Lockwood could find nothing. When picking up the plane, I found the thin painters tape, pulled it off and behold, a good sounding engine again and I had a much lighter pocket book. Another "brain fart" I'm not proud of, an owner came in with a blade that was beginning to show signs of leading edge wear. The thin metal leading edge guard was slightly dented and pitted on his Warp Drive. I didn't notice it was becoming de-laminated (slight bubble). I should have caught it on a close inspection but didn't. This was not a warble sound from the outside, it was a sharp hum or buzz, but inside it seemed to have a warble. Rebuilt the blades (fairly cheap) and all was good. If your leading edges are unevenly worn or pitted, and or the trailing edge of your leading edge tape even slightly loose, refinish the blades. Folks are right, the book says for most gearboxes, an overhaul at 600 hours is required for continuing maintenance. Gearboxes are normally sent off for the overhaul (which takes 30 minutes at Lockwood). I pull the prop, the gearbox and drive down and have lunch with the boys, then come back. Nice visit and about $3-400 if no main gear parts are needed. The time is one hour and the new seals and bearings are quite cost effective. Exhaust resonance is tough to find. Exhaust leak soot and spring failures generally point the way that something is amiss. One must be very careful trying to troubleshoot this during ground runups. A problem with the sprag clutch can cause noise, but that is clearly heard around an idling engine, so I doubt that is an issue. Vibration noise from the airframe is tough to track. Loose gear components, speed kits, and anything that vibrates in flight will pick up a power plant frequency and resonate along with the other vibrations. A slight difference in frequency will cause a distinct increase and decrease (like that propeller sync example) giving you fits troubleshooting those type things. Keep us all posted. Bud Yerly Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496978#496978 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Biax Material for Europa classic wing
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Date: Jun 21, 2020
TobiK, The Biaxial cloth is SP Systems XE481 You may be able to get some from Europa. Cheers Kingsley in Oz On 19.06.20 9:14 pm, TobiK wrote: > > Hey Guys, > > I am actually building an Europa classic (blue foam) Wing. I am running out of material (biax cloth) and I would now like to buy some new. The problem is, I don't know what material the "biax" is. Does anyone of you can help me with a specification or typ of cloth? > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496922#496922 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Jun 22, 2020
Subject: Question for the classic-mono fliers
Who out there are flying with an airmaster prop? What spinner is used, and how does it fit against the classic cowl (Isn't th e airmaster spinner too small?)? Are all Classic mono's (with the XS tailwheel) all flying with the 62" prop? Can the 64" (whirlwind) be used? Could the 64" be used if the XS tailwheel s pring is lowered allowing for increased deck angle? How much higher is the XS thrust-line vs the classic? Many thanks for any/all info! Cheers, Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Question for the classic-mono fliers
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jun 22, 2020
Hi Pete, My aircraft which I built was a Classic Mono for about 650 hours and had a 912UL 80hp with Airmaster and 62" diameter tapered blades. After converting it to a tricycle and installing a 912ULS 100hp with 64" diameter wider blades, it has flown about another 400 hours during which time the firewall forward was altered to the Neville Eyre cowls, making it very much more like the XS f/w forward. (See attached image.) I never actually measured the propeller ground clearance with the fuselage horizontal while it was still a Mono with 62" propeller, but subjectively I guess it would be much the same clearance as an XS tricycle with 64" propeller. While it was still a Classic Mono, Airmaster made spinner bulkheads for me which very well matched the Classic cowls. No doubt they still have the molds. When I converted to Nev Eyre's cowls, I acquired a smaller diameter spinner which matches the XS cowls and gave away my big spinner with bulkheads to someone who needed them. I don't believe that it would be necessary to lower the XS tail wheel spring, because reduced propeller ground clearance with a 64" propeller becomes more significant when the tail gets raised during take off. Yet I flew happily enough like that for many hours before concerting to tricycle u/c. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497003#497003 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/g_eiky_nev_eyre_cowls_190.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hand propping the Rotax
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Jun 24, 2020
It is well known that the Rotax cannot be handpropped, right? This was what I believed...until I watched this video (2:00 - 3:00): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDsQIgUYvxY Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497022#497022 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Jun 24, 2020
Subject: Frame/gear offset error?
Hi Folks, My kit=99s (circa-2001) frame seem to have an offset error on the swi ng-arm tube centering tabs, making it not possible to drop the gear without i nterference. Anyone else seen this error? Looks like a fiddly fix to carefu lly grind down one tab and adding to the other. Picture is attached (if it gets through - also posted on the Europa Aircraf t Owners FB page) Thoughts/experiences anyone? Many thanks, Pete A239 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jun 24, 2020
Bud and friends, Today I found what I believe is the "smoking gun" i.e. the possible cause of the strange "wow-wow-wow" resonance. While standing in front of the aircraft I saw that the propeller spinner is now displaced about 5mm to the left and is sagging about 4 mm. On standing closer it was easy to see that the 2 screws which secure the upper cowl nearest the spinner, are no longer equally spaced either side of the spinner. Voila! Off came the cowls and a couple of hours were spent closely investigating both the engine bearer frame ( a la Neville Eyre ) which is built to battleship standards and the undercarriage frame which was found to be crack free and as strongly secured to the fuselage tunnel as ever. A friend assisted by repeatedly lifting the engine up and down and side to side, while I used a strong light and felt all over for evidence of movement due to cracking. Then we swapped roles, before reaching the conclusion that both frames are sound and solid. So all this suggests to me that it could be time to replace the Lord engine suspension rubbers, which haven't been replaced in living memory or 12+ years! But I seem to recall that there was a bit of indignation in this forum about the excessive hardness of rubbers supplied by Europa. Please refresh my memory and let me know if the hardness problem was ever resolved. I've tried a search and trawling through various topics, to little avail. All I could find was someone's query about MT04 and Lord J 3608-1. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497027#497027 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hand propping the Rotax
From: "Hitchflight" <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Jun 25, 2020
That looks and feels so wrong on a Rotax. And no chocks...... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497029#497029 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frame/gear offset error?
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Jun 25, 2020
Pete, Could you explain further what is the problem? From the photo I don't see anything wrong. Thanks, Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497032#497032 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Jun 25, 2020
Subject: Re: Frame/gear offset error?
Hi Jim, The swingarm is not centered and does not clear the frame (pilot side) to drop the gear. The locating tabs on the swingarm tube are incorrect and nit crnteted, although are the exact correct width (no lateral play) wrt to the swingarm bushings. > On Jun 25, 2020, at 8:01 AM, h&jeuropa wrote: > > > Pete, > > Could you explain further what is the problem? From the photo I don't see anything wrong. > > Thanks, > > Jim > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497032#497032 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Frame/gear offset error?
Date: Jun 25, 2020
H Pete, I am afraid your description and photo do not tell me a great deal about your problem BUT I would like you to check something that causes a restriction much as you describe Ie leg not retracting or extending properly. I would use a manual page to refer you to but I am unable to get onto the Europa Aircraft web site. I know I am registered but they don't think I am. There is one unit that can be fitted either one of two ways round. One is right and the other will give you a problemm such as you describe. I now have a tri gear so only have immediate access to a Tri Gear manual. Not too helpful when you are talking Mono problems. Pete Jeffers ( LAA rep to the Europa Club) -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete Sent: 24 June 2020 16:25 Subject: Europa-List: Frame/gear offset error? Hi Folks, My kits (circa-2001) frame seem to have an offset error on the swing-arm tube centering tabs, making it not possible to drop the gear without interference. Anyone else seen this error? Looks like a fiddly fix to carefully grind down one tab and adding to the other. Picture is attached (if it gets through - also posted on the Europa Aircraft Owners FB page) Thoughts/experiences anyone? Many thanks, Pete A239 -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: Frame/gear offset error?
Date: Jun 25, 2020
Pete, What do you mean by centering tabs? From you picture it looks like the swing arm needs to be moved over slightly to the S.B. side. I believe the lateral position of the swing arm is set by the LG08 legs which are centered in the large diameter cross tube and LG02A which is bolted to the swing arm. Looking at your picture it doesnt look like the LG08s have been mounted to the frame yet. I suspect you just need to clean up the bearing surface on the lower frame to allow the swing arm to slide closer to the port side down tube. Or perhaps I am missing something and got it all wrong. Regards, Erich N28ET Classic Monowheel 914 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Re: Frame/gear offset error?
Date: Jun 25, 2020
Indeed the swingarm is centered on the lower frame tube by two small tabs we lded onto the top of that tube, which ride on the inside vertical surface of the arm=99s brass bushing blocks. Those tabs are nicely tight on the swingarm to prevent any lateral sliding of the swingarm on the tube, but sa dly they are offset to the pilot=99s side on mine, preventing the swin garm from clearing the vertical tube. I was just wonder if others had seen t his fabrication error, or if mine was a one-off mistake. Cheers and thanks, Pete > On Jun 25, 2020, at 11:26 AM, Erich Trombley wro te: > > =EF=BBPete, > > What do you mean by centering tabs? =46rom you picture it looks like the s wing arm needs to be moved over slightly to the S.B. side. I believe the la teral position of the swing arm is set by the LG08 legs which are centered i n the large diameter cross tube and LG02A which is bolted to the swing arm. Looking at your picture it doesn=99t look like the LG08s have been mo unted to the frame yet. I suspect you just need to clean up the bearing sur face on the lower frame to allow the swing arm to slide closer to the port s ide down tube. Or perhaps I am missing something and got it all wrong. =F0=9F =A4=94 > > Regards, > Erich > N28ET Classic Monowheel 914 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frame/gear offset error?
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au>
Date: Jun 26, 2020
Peter, Photos can be deceiving but in the photo attached, it appears the brass bushings may be offset with respect to the swinging arm. As a point of interest, have you tried inverting each pair of bushings to see if there is any improvement? If the tabs as you call them are different distances from the side frame (a fabrication error as you suspect), I think I would be tempted to simply grind away that part of the swinging arm that conflicts. There is not much clearance at the best of times in that area. Now to answer your question . . . . . No I haven't seen that fabrication error but I have seen a different one on the same framework. Cheers Kingsley On 26.06.20 1:45 am, Pete wrote: > Indeed the swingarm is centered on the lower frame tube by two small tabs welded onto the top of that tube, which ride on the inside vertical surface of the arms brass bushing blocks. Those tabs are nicely tight on the swingarm to prevent any lateral sliding of the swingarm on the tube, but sadly they are offset to the pilots side on mine, preventing the swingarm from clearing the vertical tube. I was just wonder if others had seen this fabrication error, or if mine was a one-off mistake. > > Cheers and thanks, > Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frame/gear offset error?
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Jun 25, 2020
Pete, >From what I see on your pictures, it seems that one weld (image2) is preventing the swinging arm to be moved to starboard enough to clear the frame when in the extended position. May be some filing of the excess welding would solve this issue? Good luck Remi Guerner Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497044#497044 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Frame/gear offset error?
Date: Jun 26, 2020
Hi again, I have, thanks to Bob Hitchcock, now found the page and picture I refer to. The assembly I refer to is on P 29M - 7 of the build manual. The item I refer to which can be fitted the wrong way round is LG 05 ( shock absorber top plate). Please chech this before you start filing anything. Pete J -----Original Message----- From: Pete Jeffers [mailto:pjeffers(at)talktalk.net] Sent: 25 June 2020 15:46 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Frame/gear offset error? H Pete, I am afraid your description and photo do not tell me a great deal about your problem BUT I would like you to check something that causes a restriction much as you describe Ie leg not retracting or extending properly. I would use a manual page to refer you to but I am unable to get onto the Europa Aircraft web site. I know I am registered but they don't think I am. There is one unit that can be fitted either one of two ways round. One is right and the other will give you a problemm such as you describe. I now have a tri gear so only have immediate access to a Tri Gear manual. Not too helpful when you are talking Mono problems. Pete Jeffers ( LAA rep to the Europa Club) -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete Sent: 24 June 2020 16:25 Subject: Europa-List: Frame/gear offset error? Hi Folks, My kits (circa-2001) frame seem to have an offset error on the swing-arm tube centering tabs, making it not possible to drop the gear without interference. Anyone else seen this error? Looks like a fiddly fix to carefully grind down one tab and adding to the other. Picture is attached (if it gets through - also posted on the Europa Aircraft Owners FB page) Thoughts/experiences anyone? Many thanks, Pete A239 -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frame/gear offset error?
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Jun 26, 2020
Pete, Please ignore my previous post. After a closer look at your photos, I see now the tiny tabs you are referring to. You are perfectly right: they are welded in a position which makes the swinging arm to be offset to the pilot side. Not easy to fix that properly. Good luck! Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497049#497049 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa Ladies!!!
From: "savageema" <alicebetha(at)protonmail.com>
Date: Jun 27, 2020
Watching european amateur girls is great. This is what sites like SexCamsBay (https://sexcamsbay.com) are made for. seeing all the models doing great cam porn videos is just amazing and you wish you had more free time to watch.[/code] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497059#497059 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel pump Classic
From: "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 28, 2020
I think it is about time to change the mechanical petrol pump on my classic Europa. It looks like the new design Rotax pump will foul the right radiator. Does anyone have experience with this and if so what is the best solution? Barry -------- Barry Tennant D-EHBT At EDLM - Germany Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497062#497062 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump Classic
Date: Jun 28, 2020
Indeed it does. I took mine to a local welder and had him put a 20-ish degre e outboard angle on the outlet (?) to clear the new pump. The welding may ha ve resulted in a fin leak, to which i had rectify using JB-weld epoxy, which is working effectively for now until i can source a new custom radiator. Cheers and good luck! Pete > On Jun 28, 2020, at 7:11 AM, tennant wrote: > gmail.com> > > I think it is about time to change the mechanical petrol pump on my classi c Europa. It looks like the new design Rotax pump will foul the right radiat or. Does anyone have experience with this and if so what is the best solutio n? > > Barry > > -------- > Barry Tennant > D-EHBT > At EDLM - Germany > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497062#497062 > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 29, 2020
Subject: 5 point harness
I seem to recall that there is at least one europaphile with a five point harness...in europe i seem to recall. I cant find the thread on the forum. I have a very reclined seat due to my height and am concerned that in case of an impact might slide under the belt. Hence my interest in anti submarine belt aka crotch strap. Can anyone help? William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 5 point harness
From: "fklein(at)orcasonline.com" <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Date: Jun 29, 2020
I believe that would be Raimo Tolvio. > On Jun 29, 2020, at 5:04 AM, William Daniell wrote: > > I seem to recall that there is at least one europaphile with a five point harness...in europe i seem to recall. I cant find the thread on the forum. > > I have a very reclined seat due to my height and am concerned that in case of an impact might slide under the belt. Hence my interest in anti submarine belt aka crotch strap. > > Can anyone help? > > William Daniell > +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 29, 2020
Subject: Re: 5 point harness
Thanks fred William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 18:27 fklein(at)orcasonline.com wrote: > fklein(at)orcasonline.com> > > I believe that would be Raimo Tolvio. > > > On Jun 29, 2020, at 5:04 AM, William Daniell < > wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > I seem to recall that there is at least one europaphile with a five > point harness...in europe i seem to recall. I cant find the thread on the > forum. > > > > I have a very reclined seat due to my height and am concerned that in > case of an impact might slide under the belt. Hence my interest in anti > submarine belt aka crotch strap. > > > > Can anyone help? > > > > William Daniell > > +1 786 878 0246 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 5 point harness
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Jun 29, 2020
Hi Daniell, how do you achieve a reclined seat position due to your hight without running out of space for your legs? Did you also increase the distance to the rudder pedals? Regards Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497089#497089 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Lord engine suspension rubbers
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jun 30, 2020
My question concerns MT04 or Lord J 3608-1 suspension rubbers. I recall from perhaps a few years ago that there was some debate about these items and assertions that they were either too hard or too soft. Thus far I can't find any reference on the website to this controversy. Can anyone inform me about this, please? Also I've been trying to call Karen at Europa without success for almost a week, to find out about availability. Is she furloughed? Thanks for whatever information you can provide. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497092#497092 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jun 30, 2020
Subject: Re: 5 point harness
Roland I dont seem to have photos of my seat so I will take some if I remember when I next go to the hangar. Here's a pic of the right seat. It has a hinge and removable wedges to adjust the under thigh support. this photo is [image: IMG_6121.jpg] without the wedges. My instructor flew from that seat the other day and pronounced it comfortable [image: IMG_6119 (1).jpg] The rudder pedals are in the standard location. My principle with the aircraft was to make it as light as possible. The seat I made for myself from composite/coremat. It is about 1/4" thick. It is designed to support my weight evenly from shoulder blades through to back of thigh so that almost no padding is required. Today I fly with just a sheepskin - no foam. I am aware of the issue of hard landing and compression but I considered that the lack of padding would be mitigated by distributing my weight over a wider area. There is about an inch from my headphones to the plexi As it happened when I flew from Colombia to USA I flew every day for two weeks up to 5 hours a day and was never uncomfortable. William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 On Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 2:43 AM Roland wrote: > > Hi Daniell, > > how do you achieve a reclined seat position due to your hight without > running out of space for your legs? Did you also increase the distance to > the rudder pedals? > > Regards > Roland > PH-ZTI > XS TG 914 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497089#497089 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 5 point harness
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Jun 30, 2020
Thanks for clarification, Daniell - interesting! I'm not that tall with 1,82 metres but cockpit space is the only thing I'm missing a bit in the Europa. However I have to add, that I'm wearing a parachute and without it I'd have 2-3 Inches more legroom. What also might contribute to comfort in your plane, especially on longer flights, is perhaps the less upright position of the upper body. I can see on the photos, that you also have cropped control sticks installed, which provide more space to the front edge of the seat. Cheers Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497105#497105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lord engine suspension rubbers
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Jul 01, 2020
Jonathan, I got parts from the factory last Monday, but this was a very long process. It seems they are working part time due to the chineese stuff. I did not manage to talk to Karen but had a contact with Dave. Regarding the MT04, I had trouble years ago with way too soft parts supplied by Europa. They supplied replacement parts which I installed 18 months ago, and they are fine. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497107#497107 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lord engine suspension rubbers
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jul 01, 2020
Thanks Remi. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497108#497108 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lord engine suspension rubbers
From: "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 01, 2020
Hello Jonathan, I did get a response from Dave at Europa when I emailed Karen. I have Been speaking to him this week and the number I used was 01603 738921. Regards Gordon -------- Gordon Grant G-BWFH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497109#497109 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Carburettor icing with heated carbs
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jul 01, 2020
My aircraft gave me a little excitement last week. It has the radiator hot water permanently circulating around the inlet manifold ends of both carburettors, which heats the downstream ends just beyond the throttle butterflies and also hopefully the butterfly spindles to conduct residual heat into the butterfly valves. Many aircraft with Rotax 4 stroke engines use this method to prevent carburettor ice build-up and I've never heard of one with this modification which suffered from it. There's been a quite well-known spate of sinking floats, possibly due to a batch of poor plastic from which the floats are made reacting with ethanol (who knows?) in the unleaded fuel. I recently acquired 4 spare floats and I changed one which was half sunken. I'm told that if only one float in a bowl is doing its job properly, then a richer mixture will happen. We all know that carburettor ice can happen in air temperatures up to around 25C and the warmer the air, the more moisture it can hold. Rich fuel / air mixture makes icing more likely, due to increased fuel evaporation cooling the metal parts. Also in an carburetted aircraft, long descents with the throttle only partly open greatly increase the possibility of carburettor ice. But this has never been reported in a Europa to my knowledge because of the permanent radiator water circulation as described above. On the day in question I had just changed worn out propeller blade tape and balanced the carbs to get rid of an annoying vibration in the cruise. I took off, climbed ahead then turned downwind in the airfield circuit pattern (ACP) to accelerate to cruise speed and check for vibrations. All seemed well during an extended downwind leg, so I closed the throttle to reduce below flap limiting speed then did a descending curve around onto final approach, using a little throttle while making a long flat approach. It was an exceptionally warm humid day! I decided to make a "touch and go" landing before opening throttle wide to climb back into the ACP. At about 300 ft while retracting the remaining half of flap, the engine suddenly went "BRRRP" and shook violently for about 1 or 2 seconds before becoming smooth again. I immediately considered either landing in a nearby farm field or landing with a slight downwind on the runway if the engine didn't die. But because there seemed to be plenty of smooth power restored, I made a very short tight ACP and landed normally. After discussion with another pilot who shares my 'plane and witnessed my swift return from the ground, we agreed that carburettor icing was the most likely cause, when a lump of ice probably broke free and went through the cylinders. I removed the top engine cowl and looked for other possible causes and then removed the float bowls. And there it was! Another one of the floats had sunk and thereby allowed a richer mixture to worsen the risk of ice. So on that day all the possible circumstances combined to allow ice to form in one carburettor, not least being that the throttle was closed and then slightly open for about 2.5 minutes. I replaced the float and did several more ACPs without incident. However I can do without that kind of excitement, if the truth be told. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497110#497110 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Classic throttle cables
From: "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 01, 2020
I had the misfortune to suffer a throttle cable break last week, fortunately whilst on the ground. It would seem that Europa only stock one size of cable which are designed for the XS and these are much longer than the original Classic cables. The problem is not the inner as these can be cut, but the outer which is about 30cm too long. At present my only solution is to use the new inners with the Old outers, but I just wondered if anyone with a Classic has encountered this problem and if so how you resolved the situation. Dave at Europa is investigating as he was unaware the Classic required shorter cables, but this does not help at the moment! -------- Gordon Grant G-BWFH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497111#497111 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Classic throttle cables
Date: Jul 01, 2020
Hi! Gordon, I never understood it possible to have a Europa throttle cable too long? Mine went through the firewall and took a huge loop( almost to the front of the cowl before returning back to the carbs for easy and free operation for alignment to the carbs point of entry.( no clips or tie wraps needed) Regards Bob Harrison EX G-PTAG. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GBWFH2010 Sent: 01 July 2020 10:04 Subject: Europa-List: Classic throttle cables I had the misfortune to suffer a throttle cable break last week, fortunately whilst on the ground. It would seem that Europa only stock one size of cable which are designed for the XS and these are much longer than the original Classic cables. The problem is not the inner as these can be cut, but the outer which is about 30cm too long. At present my only solution is to use the new inners with the Old outers, but I just wondered if anyone with a Classic has encountered this problem and if so how you resolved the situation. Dave at Europa is investigating as he was unaware the Classic required shorter cables, but this does not help at the moment! -------- Gordon Grant G-BWFH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497111#497111 This email has been scanned by BullGuard antivirus protection. For more info visit www.bullguard.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Jul 01, 2020
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
Solid core (yes i did, also on the ground, and the friction did not allow the throttle to go full open)? Or original stranded? I have reverted to teflon coated stranded inners (bicycle brake cable core), and find it is now very smooth and free. Cheers, Pete > On Jul 1, 2020, at 5:12 AM, GBWFH2010 wrote: > > > I had the misfortune to suffer a throttle cable break last week, fortunately whilst on the ground. > It would seem that Europa only stock one size of cable which are designed > for the XS and these are much longer than the original Classic cables. The problem is not the inner as these can be cut, but the outer which is about > 30cm too long. At present my only solution is to use the new inners with the > Old outers, but I just wondered if > anyone with a Classic has encountered this problem and if so how you resolved the situation. > Dave at Europa is investigating as he was unaware the Classic required shorter cables, but this does not help at the moment! > > -------- > Gordon Grant > > G-BWFH > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497111#497111 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: Lord engine suspension rubbers
Date: Jul 01, 2020
Hello Jonathan, I just recently switched from the MT04 to the Lord J3608-1. Aware of the QC issues with the MT04 (which I understand have since been resolved), I elected to install the Lord mounts after reading the archived posts on the topic. I can confirm the Lord mounts are much softer than the MT04s. Also, new spacers are required as the bore of the Lord mount is larger. I machined the new spacers such that they were the same length of the Europa supplied ones. Quite a bit of shimming was required to raise the engine back to its original location and I found there was significant movement of the engine during a "botched start." In hind sight I believe the spacers should be shortened a bit in order to provide more preload on the mounts, which should result in less shimming and engine movement. I use the term "botched start" to describe an unsuccessful start of a warm/hot engine. Typically the engine is still warm from previous flight, say returning to the airport after flying in for lunch. Using the normal starting procedure (without choke) the engine fires but not quite on all cylinders, it seems. There is this jerky motion whereby the engine seems to stutter back and forth shaking violently. Its rather unnerving, and you can't seem to the stop the engine quick enough. BTW, the engine moved so much during the "botched start" that the propeller spinner contacted the cowl in two places. Ouch! In addition to the spinner contacting the cowl, I found that the S.B. airbox to carb rubber connecting hose had come off the aft end of the carb and the airbox had slid partly off the hose from the turbo. Now that's a lot of shaking! I now use the following hot start procedure anytime other than starting a cold soaked engine. Fuel pumps off and throttle wide open. As soon as the engine starts immediately move the throttle to idle, wait until the engine just starts to run out of fuel before turning on the fuel pump. It seems that even a minor change can have significant unintended consequences. I was not successful in finding information on the internet regarding pre-load requirements/spacer length for the Lord mounts. If anyone has such information I would be mighty obliged. Regards, Erich N28ET Classic Mono 914 ____________________________________________________________ Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more Fox Anchor Out Amid Sexual Misconduct Accusations http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5efccc24584234c231aacst04vuc1 Doomed Groom May Have Infected 100 at His Wedding http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5efccc24733ed4c231aacst04vuc2 2 Black Kids Played in a Hotel Pool. The Cops Were Called http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5efccc24930b24c231aacst04vuc3 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lord engine suspension rubbers
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jul 01, 2020
Thanks everyone. Dave has kindly contacted me with the information I was seeking. Jonathan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497125#497125 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
From: "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 02, 2020
Thanks Bob. Do you have a picture of your engine compartment showing How your cables were routed? Regards Gordon -------- Gordon Grant G-BWFH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497135#497135 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <roddyeuropa(at)aol.com>
Subject: Mono inner tube
Date: Jul 02, 2020
Does anyone (uk based) have a mono inner tube they dont need? Or a recommendation as to which one to buy (no response as yet from Europa) Aviation)? Thanks Roddy Kesterton G-IKRK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
Date: Jul 02, 2020
Hi!Gordon, No I don't have any pics or the plane any longer but I recall the cables went forward from the standard quadrant box on the XS cockpit module through the firewall and curved gently upwards to lay on the top of the engine, forwards and then aligned backwards to the carb connections. They appeared ridiculously long but no sharp or forced bends and no ties gave a completely free movement. Once positioned they stayed throttle set by the friction clamped on the actual throttle lever. But as you said they need to fail in full throttle mode. I also only oiled the actuating ends ......none down the cable length ......it only makes drag and collects dust. Mine were bicycle multistrand cables , not the solid single wire type. Hope this helps. Regards Bob Harrison Ex G-PTAG. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GBWFH2010 Sent: 02 July 2020 09:14 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Classic throttle cables Thanks Bob. Do you have a picture of your engine compartment showing How your cables were routed? Regards Gordon -------- Gordon Grant G-BWFH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497135#497135 This email has been scanned by BullGuard antivirus protection. For more info visit www.bullguard.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
From: "GBWFH2010" <gaxuk2001(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 02, 2020
Thanks Bob, that is really useful. Regards Gordon -------- Gordon Grant G-BWFH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497138#497138 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 02, 2020
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
while we're on the topic, what is the recommended cable lubricant for South Florida conditions? thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 7:51 AM GBWFH2010 wrote: > > Thanks Bob, that is really useful. > > Regards > > Gordon > > -------- > Gordon Grant > > G-BWFH > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497138#497138 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mono inner tube
From: "italianjon" <jon.catilli(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 02, 2020
Hi Roddy, I too gave up as I got no reply from Europa when I wanted one. Closest I found to the long curved filling tube (TR67) was from Watts Aviation, PN D20747 a 700/800-6 AM TUBE with a TR87 Valve. Although the valve is shorter than the Europa standard, it is perfectly useable. Watts had to order mine so it took a short while to come from the states, but I have one in stock, if you need it urgently I could send you that and then you just replace it for me, with the art that you order. Best Jon Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497155#497155 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Not starting 912ULS
Date: Jul 05, 2020
Fitted new radiator hose last week and ran engine to test for leaks. Went back yesterday and will not start. I had fitted a soft start module. After failing to start I removed the module and tried on the standard start with the key start mag switch. Still no start. Checked plug for spark no spark?? Checked earths seem ok. Any body any ideas? Dave Park ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Scanlan <aspenbuild(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: Not starting 912ULS
Date: Jul 05, 2020
Usually it=99s the failure of the spark boost in the second ECU, I had to send mine back to Carmo electronics in the Netherlands, =82=AC55 0 to repair both ECU=99s so the spark is restored at cranking RPM > On 5 Jul 2020, at 11:40, david park wrote: > > > Fitted new radiator hose last week and ran engine to test for leaks. > Went back yesterday and will not start. I had fitted a soft start module. After failing to start I removed the module and tried on the standard start with the key start mag switch. Still no start. Checked plug for spark no spark?? Checked earths seem ok. > Any body any ideas? > > Dave Park > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve Ivell <SteveIvell(at)pestproof.co.uk>
Subject: Not starting 912ULS
Date: Jul 06, 2020
Hi Dave If it's the ignition module then you can usually "wake it up" by heating it with a hair dryer/hot air gun (gently!!). Once it starts it should run fine as the engine heats the ignition modules. The Carmo repairs seem to fail after a while and are relatively expensive. There is a guy called Andy Buchan who is a UK instructor who is supplying new (non-rotax) modules at 300 per pair. They also have a long lead so you can mount them away from the engine, say on the firewall, away from the vibration and a bit less heat. They have apparently been "road tested" on various aircraft and seem to work well. May be worth a try. Kind Regards Steve Ivell -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of david park Sent: 05 July 2020 11:41 Subject: Europa-List: Not starting 912ULS Fitted new radiator hose last week and ran engine to test for leaks. Went back yesterday and will not start. I had fitted a soft start module. After failing to start I removed the module and tried on the standard start with the key start mag switch. Still no start. Checked plug for spark no spark?? Checked earths seem ok. Any body any ideas? Dave Park ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 06, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Not starting 912ULS
Or deal direct: https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/bikes/rotax/rotax%20912%20and%20914/rotax%20912%20and%20914.htm Duncan McF. > On 06 July 2020 at 14:32 Steve Ivell wrote: > > > > Hi Dave > > If it's the ignition module then you can usually "wake it up" by heating it with a hair dryer/hot air gun (gently!!). Once it starts it should run fine as the engine heats the ignition modules. > > The Carmo repairs seem to fail after a while and are relatively expensive. There is a guy called Andy Buchan who is a UK instructor who is supplying new (non-rotax) modules at 300 per pair. They also have a long lead so you can mount them away from the engine, say on the firewall, away from the vibration and a bit less heat. > > They have apparently been "road tested" on various aircraft and seem to work well. May be worth a try. > > Kind Regards > > Steve Ivell > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of david park > Sent: 05 July 2020 11:41 > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: Not starting 912ULS > > > Fitted new radiator hose last week and ran engine to test for leaks. > Went back yesterday and will not start. I had fitted a soft start module. After failing to start I removed the module and tried on the standard start with the key start mag switch. Still no start. Checked plug for spark no spark?? Checked earths seem ok. > Any body any ideas? > > Dave Park > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 08, 2020
Subject: Re: 5 point harness
Fred, didnt you design a headrest "extension" to raise the shoulder height of the harness? I can find the posts but not the the design/pics on the forum. If it was you would you mind sending me some pics and the design thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 6:27 PM fklein(at)orcasonline.com < fklein(at)orcasonline.com> wrote: > fklein(at)orcasonline.com> > > I believe that would be Raimo Tolvio. > > > On Jun 29, 2020, at 5:04 AM, William Daniell < > wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > I seem to recall that there is at least one europaphile with a five > point harness...in europe i seem to recall. I cant find the thread on the > forum. > > > > I have a very reclined seat due to my height and am concerned that in > case of an impact might slide under the belt. Hence my interest in anti > submarine belt aka crotch strap. > > > > Can anyone help? > > > > William Daniell > > +1 786 878 0246 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: NSI CAP 140 Problem
From: "Tuna" <spook712(at)freenet.de>
Date: Jul 08, 2020
Hello Dave, could you send the pdf to me as well, I`m facing also problems with the CAP 140. Thanks, Tuna dg.watts(at)talktalk.net wrote: > Mike, > > I have sent you a .pdf of the NSI Manual. > If you dont receive it, let me know and Ill send it again. > > Dave Watts > > > > On 10 Jul 2019, at 2:06 pm, Mike Kelly wrote: > > > > > > > > Hello All, > > I am experiencing a problem with the variable pitch on the Europa. > > The pitch has become fixed in the "fine" position. > > The slip ring is good and voltages appearing on the slip ring seem ok. > > Does anyone have a description/wiring diagram of the system, or can anyone > > pass on knowledge of where the problem might be? > > Does anyone have a service manual that may help. > > A cross section view of the mechanism would be great! > > Many thanks in anticipation. > > > > -------- > > MK > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=490185#490185 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497207#497207 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: headrest extension
Date: Jul 08, 2020
Willyeshere are my sketches and a couple of pixsassembly tested to 10 G=99slet me know if you would like more infoBest, Fred > On Jul 8, 2020, at 5:35 AM, William Daniell wrote: > > Fred, > didnt you design a headrest "extension" to raise the shoulder height of the harness? I can find the posts but not the the design/pics on the forum. If it was you would you mind sending me some pics and the design > thanks > Will > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 08, 2020
Subject: Re: headrest extension
By the way , are you flying yet? (I almost went tje subaru route but chickened out) Will William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 13:02 Fred Klein wrote: > Willyeshere are my sketches and a couple of pixs assembly tested to 10 > G=99slet me know if you would like more infoBest, Fred > > On Jul 8, 2020, at 5:35 AM, William Daniell > wrote: > > Fred, > didnt you design a headrest "extension" to raise the shoulder height of > the harness? I can find the posts but not the the design/pics on the > forum. If it was you would you mind sending me some pics and the design > thanks > Will > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +1 786 878 0246 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 08, 2020
Subject: Re: headrest extension
Sorry Forgot to say...Thank you!! Will William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 23:22 William Daniell wrote: > By the way , are you flying yet? > > (I almost went tje subaru route but chickened out) > > Will > > William Daniell > +1 786 878 0246 > > On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 13:02 Fred Klein wrote: > >> Willyeshere are my sketches and a couple of pixs assembly tested to 10 >> G=99slet me know if you would like more infoBest , Fred >> >> On Jul 8, 2020, at 5:35 AM, William Daniell >> wrote: >> >> Fred, >> didnt you design a headrest "extension" to raise the shoulder height of >> the harness? I can find the posts but not the the design/pics on the >> forum. If it was you would you mind sending me some pics and the design >> thanks >> Will >> William Daniell >> LONGPORT >> +1 786 878 0246 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: headrest extension
Date: Jul 08, 2020
WillI did have my initial flight back on Nov. 1, =9919; however, it was a short one due to engine overheating. I had fallen in love with my tuned exhaust which placed a lengthy serpentine of exhaust pipe under my cowl, and have believed that, even after wrapping all the pipe & muffler w/ heat shield, I was introducing way too much heat under the cowl and was compromising my cooling system. After a nasty bout with shingles over the winter, I=99ve now gone to straight pipes with twin =9CSwiss Mufflers=9Dthe installation is just now complete. I=99m running 50/50 coolant (265 deg. boiling point) and can now get almost 20 min. on the ground before coolant temps reach 210 deg. At the moment I=99m in the midst of retuning the engine, relocating my OAT, and having another go at sealing some gaps around my radiatorsfeeling a bit frustrated. Fred > On Jul 8, 2020, at 8:22 PM, William Daniell wrote: > > By the way , are you flying yet? > > (I almost went tje subaru route but chickened out) > > Will > > William Daniell > +1 786 878 0246 > > On Wed, Jul 8, 2020, 13:02 Fred Klein > wrote: > Willyeshere are my sketches and a couple of pixsassembly tested to 10 G=99slet me know if you would like more infoBest, Fred > >> On Jul 8, 2020, at 5:35 AM, William Daniell > wrote: >> >> Fred, >> didnt you design a headrest "extension" to raise the shoulder height of the harness? I can find the posts but not the the design/pics on the forum. If it was you would you mind sending me some pics and the design >> thanks >> Will >> William Daniell >> LONGPORT >> +1 786 878 0246 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Need MAP Manifold Air Pressure 2 1/4 inch gauge
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jul 10, 2020
Please would someone sell me a serviceable MAP 2 1/4" gauge. Looking on line has been disappointing, in that all such items seem to come from the States and therefore incur shipping charges greater than the item new asking price. I live in Scotland. Thanks, Jonathan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497240#497240 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: LG frame cracks
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2020
Hi Jim, I am in process of removing my gear frame to repair/replace the bent bottom gear pivot tube (present since my purchase, and likely made worse with my side-loading since), and short of replacing the frame, would like to strip and inspect the entire frame. How did you get the frame to un-bond from the epoxy tunnel bedding? What method did you use to strip the paint/powdercoating? Can you tell me if the Tubes are all 4130? Thanks for your detailed pdf report of the cracks, added to my inspection/reenforcing list. Cheers, Pete > On Nov 12, 2018, at 2:52 PM, h&jeuropa wrote: > > > We discovered a potential safety issue and wanted to share this so others become aware of the situation and can inspect their aircraft. > > We are in the process of our annual condition inspection on our mono wheel. This year is extensive since motor mounts and bungee cord need replaced. After being alerted by John Wigney of possible cracks in the lower tubes of the LG frame, we inspected and discovered our frame is cracked like his. The cracks are very difficult to find as they are somewhat hidden by the firewall and behind the vertical tubes of the frame. Using Johns photos, a strong light, and magnifying glass, we were able to see a crack in the starboard tube. A photo with our iPad actually gave the best indication of a crack. A dye penetrant test confirmed the crack. The crack in the port tube wasnt evident until the powder coat was removed. The attached document has good photos of Johns cracks. > > We removed the frame and had it repaired by an experienced A&P (FAA mechanic) using techniques called out in AC 43-13. We reamed out the tubes and machined a tube to be a tight fit similar to Mod 72 for the upper tubes except the insert is the full length of the tube. The insert is welded to the original tube with rosette welds, and the cracks were stop drilled prior to welding. One bolt hole was elongated so we changed it to AN4. > > A side note, when we started to remove the LG frame, we found that some of the mounting bolts were no longer tight. When doing your inspection, we suggest you check these nuts and if any are at all loose, inspect very carefully for cracks. > > Our mono wheel kit was purchased April 2000, kit A185 and has 975 hours. > > Jim & Heather > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=484894#484894 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/181001a_photo_summary_of_landing_gear_frame_cracks_131.pdf > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2020
Subject: Europa MT04 engine mounts
Hello, Can anyone tell me what the uncompressed length/height of a new uninstalled MT04 is? I measured the ones I recently removed and they vary considerably and obviously have taken a set. I suspect they are something close to .970 or 24.6mm. As noted in a previous email, I switched to Lord J3608-1 mounts. I contacted Lord for the recommended preload, however, they indicated there were too many variable to take into consideration. That said, they provided me with a drawing for the 0-200 motor, which isnt very helpful, I am afraid. Interestingly, I noted two very distinct differences in the Lord mounts as compared to the MT04s. First is the hardness, the Lord mounts are quite a bit softer. And the second, which surprised me, is the uncompressed length/height which I had incorrectly assumed to be the same the MT04. You know what they say when you assume something. Anyway the Lord mounts are shorter, by how much I cant say at the moment as I require the uncompressed dimension of the MT04. Armed with this information I should be able to trim the space by the delta, which I am hoping will provide the necessary preload. Kind regards, Erich N28ET Classic Monowheel 914 ____________________________________________________________ Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more Roger Stone Commutation Ups Outrage to Fever Pitch http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f09faa73d807aa66ef8st04vuc1 COVID Surge Worries Experts: 'Early Wave of a Lot of Suffering' http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f09faa71e7917aa66ef8st04vuc2 Amid Spread of Misinformation, Whispers on FB's Next Move http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f09faa73db847aa66ef8st04vuc3 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karel Vranken <karelvranken9(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 12, 2020
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 07/11/20
Erich, The 8 MT04's that I have are between 24.30 mm and 24.90 mm. Regards, Karel Vranken, F-PKRL #447 Mono 1024 h. Op zo 12 jul. 2020 om 08:40 schreef Europa-List Digest Server < europa-list(at)matronics.com>: > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete Europa-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the Europa-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 20-07-11&Archive=Europa > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 20-07-11&Archive=Europa > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Europa-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sat 07/11/20: 2 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 07:07 AM - Re: LG frame cracks (Pete) > 2. 10:48 AM - Europa MT04 engine mounts (Erich Trombley) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: Re: Europa-List: LG frame cracks > From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> > > > Hi Jim, > > I am in process of removing my gear frame to repair/replace the bent > bottom gear > pivot tube (present since my purchase, and likely made worse with my > side-loading > since), and short of replacing the frame, would like to strip and inspect > the entire frame. > > How did you get the frame to un-bond from the epoxy tunnel bedding? > > What method did you use to strip the paint/powdercoating? > > Can you tell me if the Tubes are all 4130? > > Thanks for your detailed pdf report of the cracks, added to my > inspection/reenforcing > list. > > Cheers, > Pete > > > On Nov 12, 2018, at 2:52 PM, h&jeuropa wrote: > > > > > > We discovered a potential safety issue and wanted to share this so > others become > aware of the situation and can inspect their aircraft. > > > > We are in the process of our annual condition inspection on our mono > wheel. > This year is extensive since motor mounts and bungee cord need replaced. > After > being alerted by John Wigney of possible cracks in the lower tubes of the > LG > frame, we inspected and discovered our frame is cracked like his. The > cracks > are very difficult to find as they are somewhat hidden by the firewall and > behind > the vertical tubes of the frame. Using Johns photos, a strong light, and > magnifying glass, we were able to see a crack in the starboard tube. A > photo > with our iPad actually gave the best indication of a crack. A dye > penetrant > test confirmed the crack. The crack in the port tube wasnt evident until > the > powder coat was removed. The attached document has good photos of Johns > cracks. > > > > We removed the frame and had it repaired by an experienced A&P (FAA > mechanic) > using techniques called out in AC 43-13. We reamed out the tubes and > machined > a tube to be a tight fit similar to Mod 72 for the upper tubes except the > insert > is the full length of the tube. The insert is welded to the original tube > with rosette welds, and the cracks were stop drilled prior to welding. One > bolt hole was elongated so we changed it to AN4. > > > > A side note, when we started to remove the LG frame, we found that some > of the > mounting bolts were no longer tight. When doing your inspection, we > suggest > you check these nuts and if any are at all loose, inspect very carefully > for > cracks. > > > > Our mono wheel kit was purchased April 2000, kit A185 and has 975 > hours. > > > > Jim & Heather > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=484894#484894 > > > > > > > > > > Attachments: > > > > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/181001a_photo_summary_of_landing_gear_frame_cracks_131.pdf > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> > Subject: Europa-List: Europa MT04 engine mounts > > > Hello, > > Can anyone tell me what the uncompressed length/height of a new > uninstalled MT04 > is? I measured the ones I recently removed and they vary considerably and > obviously > have taken a set. I suspect they are something close to .970 or 24.6mm. > > > As noted in a previous email, I switched to Lord J3608-1 mounts. I > contacted Lord > for the recommended preload, however, they indicated there were too many > variable > to take into consideration. That said, they provided me with a drawing > for the 0-200 motor, which isnt very helpful, I am afraid. Interestingly, > I > noted two very distinct differences in the Lord mounts as compared to the > MT04s. > First is the hardness, the Lord mounts are quite a bit softer. And the > second, > which surprised me, is the uncompressed length/height which I had > incorrectly > assumed to be the same the MT04. You know what they say when you assume > something. Anyway the Lord mounts are shorter, by how much I cant say at > the > moment as I require the uncompressed dimension of the MT04. Armed with > this > information I should be able to trim the space by the delta, which I am > hoping > will provide the necessary preload. > > Kind regards, > > Erich > N28ET Classic Monowheel 914 > ____________________________________________________________ > Sponsored by > https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more > > Roger Stone Commutation Ups Outrage to Fever Pitch > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f09faa73d807aa66ef8st04vuc1 > COVID Surge Worries Experts: 'Early Wave of a Lot of Suffering' > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f09faa71e7917aa66ef8st04vuc2 > Amid Spread of Misinformation, Whispers on FB's Next Move > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f09faa73db847aa66ef8st04vuc3 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Wylde <mike(at)wylde.me.uk>
Date: Jul 12, 2020
Subject: Lord mounts
The Lord rubber bush as used in the O-200 mount is part no J3608-1, I think this is the one you mean. According to Aircraft Spruce the dimensions are Top dia 1.36", Bottom dia 1.71". Top hole ID .52" bottom hole ID .97". Height over all .95", and .80 without including flange. I have got some unused ones in front of me and those measurements seem to match. The rubber hose spacer in the middle measures 40mm long x 20mm dia. That goes over a metal spacer which I don't have to hand, sorry. Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Twigg <alan.twigg775(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 13, 2020
Subject: Propeller covers
I have an Airmaster three bladed propeller, I have been looking for a set of covers, with no success. Does anyone have any ideas? Regards Alan Twigg. Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Propeller covers
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jul 13, 2020
Airmaster used to provide a single blade cover which was intended to be placed over one blade pointing vertically. There was an approx. 4" wide skirt attached around the bottom of the cover and which spread out across the spinner. There were also 4 strips of Velcro (2 of each type) attached to the skirt and long enough to wrap around the spinner. I used this single waterproof cover outdoors for several years when I didn't have hangarage and it ensured that no water ever got into the hub. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497266#497266 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airbox
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 13, 2020
Dear Europa forum members, My Europa XS kit didn't come with an intake airbox (912ULS) and I am looking out there to see if anyone has one they want to sell even if not in perfect shape (I can always repair). Right now I am just proceeding with small K&N filters on the carburetors and move forward. In the future, if I cant find a used one, I can always go ahead and consider a new one from Europa. But first let me check if there is an orphan or broken box waiting to be rescued. Thanks, Chris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497267#497267 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airbox
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 13, 2020
The other thing that would be useful for me is the splash mold for the NACA although I could always make a mold from foam so that's not too critical. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497268#497268 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airbox
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jul 13, 2020
Free to a good home. Would this interest you? If so, please pm me thanks. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497269#497269 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/europa_plenum_airbox_687.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airbox
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 13, 2020
Thank you Jonathan for offering the airbox. I sent you a PM. And thanks Franks for the offer to mold a scoop from your mold. This has been a nice point of building an Europa, you need help and there is plenty of that to be had out there! My plane is coming along great. Fuselage is painted and I am in the process of final assembly. I want to start the engine soon so focusing on that first. The rest of the plane (wings and stabilators) are done but need finishing so I will probably be busy for a while getting that done. But it's getting closer! Chris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497270#497270 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: Europa MT04 engine mounts
Date: Jul 13, 2020
=EF=BBKarel, Thank you for providing the dimensions of the MT04 mounts. This is a bi g help and I very much appreciated it. Kind regards, Erich N28ET Classic Mono 914 Karel wrote: Erich,The 8 MT04's that I have are between 24.30 mm and 24 .90 mm. ____________________________________________________________ Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol& utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more Search for Naya Rivera Has Come to an End http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f0cdae591e575adb1f58st03vuc1 LA, San Diego Won't Reopen Schools in Fall http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f0cdae5b4eff5adb1f58st03vuc2 Passengers Help Subdue Threatening Man on Flight http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f0cdae5d54c55adb1f58st03vuc3 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Jul 18, 2020
Subject: Classic firewall.... singleton vs steel & cooling.
Hi folks, I found on my classic that the composite firewall pretty well closed off the cowl exit on my classic, with the muffler tucked up right against it. I now wonder if the rudder pedal tubes and drive arms can be left on the engine side of the firewall, and simply fabricate a stainless firewall sheet in line with the upper firewall, leaving the rudder pedals, and all four engine mounts on the engine side of the firewall. I wonder how warm the pedals will get in the summer? My classic does have nicely overlapping and tight stainless rudder pedal passthroughs. Does anyone out there have a classic with a firewall as i have described? Cheers and thx, Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 18, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Classic firewall.... singleton vs steel & cooling.
I have a set up (the standard set up) much the same as your proposal. The rudder pedals don't get hot. Anything in the tunnel behind the steel firewall gets really hot, unless you have a monowheel with lots of default circulating cooling air. Accordingly, I have a 'fireblanket' on the back side of the steel, which reduces temperatures in the tunnel. Duncan McF. > On 18 July 2020 at 18:39 Pete wrote: > > > > Hi folks, > > I found on my classic that the composite firewall pretty well closed off the cowl exit on my classic, with the muffler tucked up right against it. > > I now wonder if the rudder pedal tubes and drive arms can be left on the engine side of the firewall, and simply fabricate a stainless firewall sheet in line with the upper firewall, leaving the rudder pedals, and all four engine mounts on the engine side of the firewall. > > I wonder how warm the pedals will get in the summer? My classic does have nicely overlapping and tight stainless rudder pedal passthroughs. > > Does anyone out there have a classic with a firewall as i have described? > > Cheers and thx, > Pete > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: crouton <crouton(at)well.com>
Date: Jul 20, 2020
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: classic firewall
I had bad cooling problems on my 80hp Classic until I removed the second muffler and replaced it with a straight pipe. Now, while it makes more noise, I can climb forever at 85kt in the Florida summer: 30C @1000ft on a relatively cool morning. That chamber of the muffler blocks a lot of air. Creighton 96EG. A-009 Sent from my iPad > On Jul 19, 2020, at 02:35, Europa-List Digest Server wrote: > > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete Europa-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the Europa-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 20-07-18&Archive=Europa > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 20-07-18&Archive=Europa > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Europa-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sat 07/18/20: 2 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 10:41 AM - Classic firewall.... singleton vs steel & cooling. (Pete) > 2. 11:01 AM - Re: Classic firewall.... singleton vs steel & cooling. (D McFadyean) > > > > ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > > From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> > Subject: Europa-List: Classic firewall.... singleton vs steel & cooling. > > > Hi folks, > > I found on my classic that the composite firewall pretty well closed off the cowl > exit on my classic, with the muffler tucked up right against it. > > I now wonder if the rudder pedal tubes and drive arms can be left on the engine > side of the firewall, and simply fabricate a stainless firewall sheet in line > with the upper firewall, leaving the rudder pedals, and all four engine mounts > on the engine side of the firewall. > > I wonder how warm the pedals will get in the summer? My classic does have nicely > overlapping and tight stainless rudder pedal passthroughs. > > Does anyone out there have a classic with a firewall as i have described? > > Cheers and thx, > Pete > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Classic firewall.... singleton vs steel & cooling. > > > I have a set up (the standard set up) much the same as your proposal. > The rudder pedals don't get hot. > Anything in the tunnel behind the steel firewall gets really hot, unless you have > a monowheel with lots of default circulating cooling air. Accordingly, I have > a 'fireblanket' on the back side of the steel, which reduces temperatures in > the tunnel. > > Duncan McF. > >> On 18 July 2020 at 18:39 Pete wrote: >> >> >> >> Hi folks, >> >> I found on my classic that the composite firewall pretty well closed off the > cowl exit on my classic, with the muffler tucked up right against it. >> >> I now wonder if the rudder pedal tubes and drive arms can be left on the engine > side of the firewall, and simply fabricate a stainless firewall sheet in line > with the upper firewall, leaving the rudder pedals, and all four engine mounts > on the engine side of the firewall. >> >> I wonder how warm the pedals will get in the summer? My classic does have nicely > overlapping and tight stainless rudder pedal passthroughs. >> >> Does anyone out there have a classic with a firewall as i have described? >> >> Cheers and thx, >> Pete >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Jul 20, 2020
Subject: Removing a starter on a classic?
For the classic owners out there, With my engine out, but the mount frame still on the engine, is it possible t o remove the starter to give it a service/inspection (while the engine is ou t)? Or must the engine frame be removed? Many thanks! Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Removing a starter on a classic?
Date: Jul 21, 2020
Hi Pete, I recall you do to allow enough room for the starter spline to withdraw. Also to get at the top bolt. Have a go first, nothing ventured nothing gained. I have had to replace my starter with the Rotax HD starter as I have the Rotax 912 100hp ULS. Starter too small to start engine during Winter. Had to make a slight alteration to engine frame to accommodate the longer new starter. Cheers, Tim Sent from my iPhone Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street Fendalton CHRISTCHURCH 8052 Hom 03315166 > On 21/07/2020, at 10:29, Pete wrote: > > For the classic owners out there, > > With my engine out, but the mount frame still on the engine, is it possible to remove the starter to give it a service/inspection (while the engine is out)? Or must the engine frame be removed? > > Many thanks! > Pete > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Europa Paint
From: "Patrick Tunney" <p1tun(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Jul 23, 2020
Hi i need to do some small paint repairs and wondered if any body has some europa supplied top coat paint and primer that is no longer required. Thanks in advance Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497400#497400 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 25, 2020
William, I always used tri-flow for lubricating hinges and control cables with good results. In many aircraft the recommendation is not to use lubricants except for silicone based dry sprays to prevent accumulation of dirt (its an AD in the Mooneys) but in fiorida you have to use something that protects metal so i found tri-flow to be a good compromise. Chris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497411#497411 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2020
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: DOTH Fenland EGCL
Should anyone be interested in a socially distanced DOTH, I am planning to take my newly resurrected/permitted plane to Fenland today arriving at around 12MD. Airfield is open, restaurant probably so and UL91 available. Personally plan to take a picnic. Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 25, 2020
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
Thanks chris William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 On Sat, Jul 25, 2020, 20:48 n7188u wrote: > > William, > > I always used tri-flow for lubricating hinges and control cables with good > results. > > In many aircraft the recommendation is not to use lubricants except for > silicone based dry sprays to prevent accumulation of dirt (its an AD in the > Mooneys) but in fiorida you have to use something that protects metal so i > found tri-flow to be a good compromise. > > Chris > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497411#497411 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic throttle cables
From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects(at)aol.com>
Date: Jul 27, 2020
Hey Gordon. Just cut the new cables to suit! Thats what I did on my classic with XS FWF (both throttle and choke) and have had no trouble at all. Regards Frank X Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497431#497431 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: DOTH Fenland EGCL
Date: Jul 27, 2020
Hi David, I am so pleased to hear that you are up and running/flying again. I trust your trip to Fenland was enjoyable. Sorry to say I was un available for several reasons but felt it important to mention that I only received your invitation on Sunday early evening. Pretty useless for a doth on Friday. You seem to have sent it on Friday at 09:13 so where it got to in the mean time goodness only knows. I hope some others received your message in time to react. Regards Pete From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk Sent: 24 July 2020 09:13 Subject: Europa-List: DOTH Fenland EGCL Should anyone be interested in a socially distanced DOTH, I am planning to take my newly resurrected/permitted plane to Fenland today arriving at around 12MD. Airfield is open, restaurant probably so and UL91 available. Personally plan to take a picnic. Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link& utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free. <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link& utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2020
Subject: Europa Panel
From: Trevor <trevord(at)orcon.net.nz>
Hello Europa Folks, I am completing a lovely part built Europa here in NZ =AD it is great in ever y way, but I have my own preferences on the panel. It currently has a Dynon Flightdek D180 (normal not super bright version) which I am happy to sell if anyone is interested =AD all working fine and recently updated to latest software release. The Europa mounting for the Dynon is also very nicely made with a sub panel . I prefer the round dials and like the idea of this instrument https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/uavionix_av-30.php?clickkey= 3 435151 Has anyone used one of these and what do they think ? Also, I have been looking around for a nice ASI that works well for the speed range and like the look of the UMA and Winter items, but have also spotted this one on the attached picture =AD great panel layout in my eyes. Does anyone know who sells this ASI in the attached picture ? Regards Trevor Dance +64275 896 988 Europa 272 Waiheke Island New Zealand > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: DOTH Fenland EGCL
From: "Hitchflight" <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Jul 28, 2020
Would agree with Pete. There is a problem here. The posts are stuttering. Have reported the issue to Matt Dralle. Hopefully he can find a solution. Regards Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497459#497459 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Scanlan <aspenbuild(at)me.com>
Subject:
Date: Jul 28, 2020
Can anybody suggest a good supplier of 8 x 6 tyres for Mono? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Cook <iancook_1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Date: Jul 28, 2020
SSBoYXZlIGEgd2hlZWwgYW5kIHR5cmUgSSBkb27igJl0IG5lZWQgaW4gQW5kb3ZlciBIYW1wc2hp cmUNCg0KSWFuIENvb2sNCkctQ0JISQ0KDQpTZW50IGZyb20gbXkgaVBob25lDQoNCk9uIDI4IEp1 bCAyMDIwLCBhdCAxNjoxNSwgUmljaGFyZCBTY2FubGFuIDxhc3BlbmJ1aWxkQG1lLmNvbTxtYWls dG86YXNwZW5idWlsZEBtZS5jb20+PiB3cm90ZToNCg0KQ2FuIGFueWJvZHkgc3VnZ2VzdCBhIGdv b2Qgc3VwcGxpZXIgb2YgOCB4IDYgdHlyZXMgZm9yIE1vbm8/DQo ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 914 Fuel Pressure Regulator plumbing question
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Jul 28, 2020
Hi Group Does anyone by chance know at 40" MP on a 914 how much more Ram Air is compared to Airbox pressure? My reason for asking is I think the pneumatic connection to Fuel Pressure Regulator might want to be plumbed to the output of enrichment solenoid as compared to the airbox. I think what we really want is more fuel pressure going into carbs compared to pressure on the float bowls, not airbox pressure. For most part it's the same except when the enrichment solenoid is activated. I'm installing a UMA Differential sender at the moment and they what the pneumatic connection reading carb float bowl pressure, not airbox pressure. It may be there is so little difference that airbox pressure is adequate, or not? Ron P. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497469#497469 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 914 Fuel Pressure Regulator plumbing question
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Jul 29, 2020
> Hi Ron, Years ago, when I was messing with the 914, I did some calculation about that. I found that ram air pressure was 1.4 percent over static pressure inside the airbox. This is a very small pressure increase: .025 PSI. This is enough to enriched the mixture significantly, but this nothing compared to the differential fuel pressure which is in the 2 to 6 psi range. Therefore plumbing the Fuel Pressure regulator to the enrichment valve instead of the airbox static pressure would not change anything. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497473#497473 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Right wing anyone?
From: "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 30, 2020
After an "Off Piste" moment in which a runway lamp tore off the support wheel assembly on a Classic Mono we are faced with a considerable repair on the right wing. Does anyone have by chance a right wing lying around that they would like to sell?? Best regards Barry Tennant -------- Barry Tennant D-EHBT At EDLM - Germany Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497480#497480 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Right wing anyone?
From: "budyerly(at)msn.com" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Date: Aug 02, 2020
I have a whole XS here in the States for sale, but that probably won't work for you. That said, the Classic with the outrigger wiped out is not that difficult to rebuild unless the spar has been ripped out also. Even if the wing came aft and crushed the baggage bay Mod 52 it is not that big of a deal. A bit tedious, many hours, a little bit of figuring, and internal foam work to reestablish the structure. Go slow and take your time, make it all square again and it will fly like new. Frankly, the task of adapting one wing to another Classic is nearly the same amount of time as the repair. Best Regards, Bud Yerly Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497487#497487 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing holders
From: "flyingphil2" <philipjtiller(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 03, 2020
Hi, I'm soon going to make a wing holder or cradle to hold the wings upright during the kit build. Before I do, there isn't anyone with a set that they no longer need is there? Thanks, Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497490#497490 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Right wing anyone?
From: "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 03, 2020
Thanks Bud, I was thinking, like you, that to fit an already built wing would mean making about as much damage as the repair! Barry -------- Barry Tennant D-EHBT At EDLM - Germany Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497493#497493 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Right wing anyone?
From: "John Kirkgaard" <john.kirkegaard(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 04, 2020
Bud and Barry. Does it mean, that I can't simply buy and install a used wing for my XS without having to make serious additional works/alterations on the new wing to make it fit? Regards John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497497#497497 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Right wing anyone?
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Aug 04, 2020
Funny man, John. Now get back to work fixing your own wing, or do you want me to come and show you how it's done! :D Jonathan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497499#497499 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Right wing anyone?
Date: Aug 02, 2020
On 2020-07-30, at 09:53, tennant wrote: > Does anyone have by chance a right wing lying around that they would like to sell?? I can=99t resist - you can have Jacob Rees-Mogg for free! in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Facebook
From: "Tenzilla" <CaseyKLandwehri(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 07, 2020
Man will you be surprised if i told you that after 3 years i got the same problem? The thing is just that i got another email adress, it is dornkol(at)yahoo.com, and it also tells me that i have 19 messages with some hyperlinks. I do not really know what that means, didn't you find out? I am really afraid that it might be due to the fact that i once went on to buy instagram followers, and i thought this might be the cause to this strange message. Please answer me if you found out what happened. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497555#497555 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Floats that sink and floats which can't!
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Aug 08, 2020
Recently I posted something on Matronics entitled "Carburettor icing with heated carbs" and now I must put my hand up and admit that the diagnosis was probably wrong, although I still find it difficult to let that one go! Today's weather was about as perfect as it gets in North East Scotland, so three flights were undertaken by a sharing pilot friend and the first two flights went without a hitch. But on the third climb-out passing 800' AGL, the engine misfired briefly which prompted my friend to retard the throttle before cautiously advancing it while he levelled the aircraft. Thereafter it ran as smoothly as anyone could wish until he landed. Having already found one sunken floatafter the previously reportedoccurrence of brief 1 - 2 second violent shaking due to one bank of cylinders failing momentarily, I removed both float bowls again and at first all 4 floats seemed to be buoyant. Then I commenced to press each float down in turn to see whether they bobbed back up to regain their half-submerged levels in the fuel bowl. It quickly became apparent that one float could only be depressed slightly with my finger, as though it was already almost resting on the bottom of the bowl. Here it comes, now wait for it, wait for it, the smoking gun! The brass sleeve which lines the vertical holes through older floats, had unstuck and slid down the pin which guides the float vertically, until more than half of the sleeve was projecting beneath the float. Of course this constitutes an obstruction to prevent downward movement of the float when the fuel level is dropping, particularly during high fuel demand such as during the climb-out after take off. So when fuel is most needed, the float chamber needle valve can't open enough to let more fuel into the bowl at a sufficient rate. Recently I acquired some replacement floats after one of my old ones had sunk and all of the replacement floats were supplied without brass sleeves lining the vertical holes. I wonder why (not)! Clearly this phenomenon of insecure brass sleeves must have become known to Rotax/Bing, or why else have they discontinued installing them? If anyone else was made aware of this, it certainly passed me by. You won't be surprised to know that all 4 floats in my carburettors now are of the new type without the inserted brass sleeves. Hopefully this isn't old news to you. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497585#497585 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Right wing anyone?
From: "tennant" <barrington.tennant(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 11, 2020
To Rowland - May i suggest sinking your "Right Wing" in Atlantic where it belongs!! To John - It is possible I am sure, but the connections to the fuselage would all have to be removed and re-fitted in a suitable position to align the wing with the other. To get at the connection pins & sockets you would have to break into the wing to fuselage flare. And repair after. Barry -------- Barry Tennant D-EHBT At EDLM - Germany Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497657#497657 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Floats that sink and floats which can't!
From: "Matt Dovey" <mattdovey(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Date: Aug 12, 2020
If you read the article in your link the brass sleeve are still in the new floats. They are just shorter for the reasons given. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497671#497671 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Floats that sink and floats which can't!
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Aug 12, 2020
What is also not so easy to see in the cutaway pictures of floats provided in the article, is that the brass sleeves in the old style of floats have slight flares at each end to prevent them sliding out as happened with mine. I still have the defective float, kept as evidence that the brass sleeve which caused the fuel starvation problem has no flares at the ends. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497672#497672 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airmaster EU/Dirk Oyen: Credit where credit is due.
From: "Rick Moss" <Rkwmoss(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 16, 2020
Following a steady increase in the rate of grease coming out of my 18 year old Airmaster prop hub and landing on the windscreen, I contacted Dirk at Airmaster EU. Within a week, a set of "courtesy blades" had been delivered to me in Britain, and my blades were in Belgium awaiting some parts and a service, along with a sensible estimate for the works. I'm well impressed with that! I went flying yesterday with the loaner-blades fitted, and my machine felt smoother than it has in a while. Cheers Dirk! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497783#497783 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin G3X or G5 Autopilot installation
From: "tonyvaccarella" <tony(at)weimagine.com.au>
Date: Aug 16, 2020
Hi all, Im in the process of installing a pair of Garmin G5 instruments (Attitude Indicator and DG) and a Garmin Autopilot. Part of the configuration process is to enter the gains for the Roll and the Pitch servos. This is conducted by doing a number of test flights and adjusting the gains until the autopilots seems to behave properly. Have any Europa builders installed a Garmin Experimental auto? If so, would you mind sharing your configuration data to overcome the need to conduct a lengthy calibration process? Best regards, Tony Vaccarfella -------- Tony Vaccarella Mascot NSW 2020 Sydney Australia Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497791#497791 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 965531 CHT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
From: "MikeP" <mpotts(at)clara.net>
Date: Aug 17, 2020
Anyone happen to have one of these 2nd hand? It mounts on cylinder 3 Ours is reading higher than it should at room temperature. thanks Mike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497798#497798 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Spark plug torque setting
From: "Gerald Cruz" <excellentdigitizing(at)yandex.com>
Date: Aug 18, 2020
When a blind man bears the standard pity those who follow. Where ignorance is bliss tis folly to be wise. https://royalcbd.com/benefits-of-cbd-edibles/ (https://royalcbd.com/benefits-of-cbd-edibles/) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497822#497822 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rotax 912 Tach connections (Aviaport)
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 18, 2020
Dear forum members, My tachometer (aviasport I think) has three pins in the back and I have no clue what kind of connector would attach to something like that. A bare connector socket from something that size would work but doesn't seem very secure. Another option, I guess, would be to solder a wire with a regular Faston and heatshrink but before I do anything that radical I am going to see what answers come from the group. Best, Chris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497834#497834 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Heatshields
From: "Gerald Cruz" <excellentdigitizing(at)yandex.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2020
I found your this post while searching for some related information on blog search...Its a good post..keep posting and update the information. https://royalcbd.com/cbd-oil-without-thc/ (https://royalcbd.com/cbd-oil-without-thc/) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497843#497843 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Correction - 966385 CHT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
From: "Gerald Cruz" <excellentdigitizing(at)yandex.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2020
I think this is definitely an amazing project here. So much good will be coming from this project. The ideas and the work behind this will pay off so much. https://royalcbd.com/wisconsin/ (https://royalcbd.com/wisconsin/) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497844#497844 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil pressure/Flydat
From: "Gerald Cruz" <excellentdigitizing(at)yandex.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2020
If you don"t mind proceed with this extraordinary work and I anticipate a greater amount of your magnificent blog entries. https://royalcbd.com/west-virginia/ (https://royalcbd.com/west-virginia/) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497848#497848 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Oil peference
Date: Aug 19, 2020
Question for the group. Bringing Baby Blue out of retirement and will be changing the oil. Been using a 10-40 blend and would like to switch to a full synthetic. Is there any reason to not do this in the 912S? Thanks in advance. -- Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Spark plug torque setting
From: "Gerald Cruz" <excellentdigitizing(at)yandex.com>
Date: Aug 19, 2020
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Subject: Re: Oil peference
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Aug 20, 2020
Jeff, We have been using AeroShell Sport Plus 4 for many years. We like that Rotax endorses it and that the formula can't be changed without Rotax approval. Jim & Heather Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497877#497877 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Oil peference
Sport 4 also has sufficient ZZDP (anti scuff agent) in it; many automotive (including motorcycle stuff) equivalents don't, because those would contaminate exhaust catalysts. Duncan McF. > On 20 August 2020 at 16:17 "h&jeuropa" wrote: > > > > Jeff, > > We have been using AeroShell Sport Plus 4 for many years. We like that Rotax endorses it and that the formula can't be changed without Rotax approval. > > Jim & Heather > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497877#497877 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil peference
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Aug 20, 2020
Jeff, I forgot to mention, I purchase it from https://oil-store.com/product/aeroshell-sport-plus-4-case-12-1-liter/ They seem to have the best price. Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497880#497880 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil peference
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Aug 20, 2020
Hi Jeff Full synthetic is not recommended if you use 100LL a lot. Semi synthetic AeroShell Sport Plus 4 is a good choice: https://www.shell.com/business-customers/aviation/aeroshell/piston-engine-oil/sports-plus4.html Ron P. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497881#497881 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil peference
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Date: Aug 20, 2020
Thanks all for the recommendations. Jeff "I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is to arrange the meeting." -Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf On 8/20/2020 2:10 PM, rparigoris wrote: > > Hi Jeff Full synthetic is not recommended if you use 100LL a lot. Semi synthetic AeroShell Sport Plus 4 is a good choice: https://www.shell.com/business-customers/aviation/aeroshell/piston-engine-oil/sports-plus4.html Ron P. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497881#497881 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2020
From: James McErlain <james(at)kingdom.ie>
Subject: Stall Warner
Hello everyone, I'm a new Europa XS owner and even though my aircraft was built to a very high level of quality, Ive found a problem on the first flight which could some day mean the difference between life and death! The Stall Warner doesnt go off when the aircraft is stalled in any configuration i.e. power on or power off. Before the flight, while doing a walk-around I tested the 'Stall Warner' by sucking on it and it worked by sounding a very audible noise in the cockpit. Can anyone advise why it isnt sounding in flight when an actual stall takes place? Is there any configuration of the system necessary to set it up correctly? If there is, does anyone know how it should be carried out? Thank you in anticipation James from Ireland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: Stall Warner
Date: Aug 21, 2020
There will be a sensor in the cockpit somewhere with a tube leading from the hole in the leading edge of the wing. There is wiring from the sensor to the warning horn. The sensor is calibrated while in flight best to extend tube and wiring so you can get your passenger to calibrate it at set speed above stall. Dave Dave Park > On 21 Aug 2020, at 01:02, James McErlain wrote: > > > Hello everyone, > I'm a new Europa XS owner and even though my aircraft was built to a very high level of quality, Ive found a problem on the first flight which could some day mean the difference between life and death! > > The Stall Warner doesnt go off when the aircraft is stalled in any configuration i.e. power on or power off. > Before the flight, while doing a walk-around I tested the 'Stall Warner' by sucking on it and it worked by sounding a very audible noise in the cockpit. > > Can anyone advise why it isnt sounding in flight when an actual stall takes place? Is there any configuration of the system necessary to set it up correctly? If there is, does anyone know how it should be carried out? > > > Thank you in anticipation > James from > Ireland > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rotax rubber motor mounts
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Aug 20, 2020
Hi Group I was going through Rotax 914 parts manual and see they offer motor mount rubber, spacers and washers. Curious has anyone tried them? How did they work out? Thx. Ron P. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497891#497891 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stall Warner
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Aug 20, 2020
Hi James Go onto Europa Aircraft website and download Modification 61. You will need to set up an account that's free. Make sure plumbing has no leaks or restrictions and follow set up procedure. If it were I and couldn't find anything amiss, try a new pressure switch. Ron P. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497892#497892 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Challis <cakeykev(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stall Warner
Date: Aug 21, 2020
Smartass better than a stall Warner in my opinion. I have no connection to t he company. https://smartavionics.co.uk/prod-smartass.html Kevin Challis G ODJG > On 21 Aug 2020, at 01:01, James McErlain wrote: > ie> > > Hello everyone, > I'm a new Europa XS owner and even though my aircraft was built to a very h igh level of quality, I=99ve found a problem on the first flight which could some day mean the difference between life and death! > > The =98Stall Warner=99 doesn=99t go off when the aircraf t is stalled in any configuration i.e. power on or power off. > Before the flight, while doing a walk-around I tested the 'Stall Warner' b y sucking on it and it worked by sounding a very audible noise in the cockpi t. > > Can anyone advise why it isn=99t sounding in flight when an actual s tall takes place? Is there any configuration of the system necessary to set i t up correctly? If there is, does anyone know how it should be carried out? > > > Thank you in anticipation > James from > Ireland > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Stall Warner
Date: Aug 21, 2020
Hi James, Sorry to hear you are having stall warner problems. It sounds as though, as per another reply you have received, that adjustment as per Mod 61 instructions is likely to be your best solution. On the assumption that the original owner had this correctly set up then you are probably looking for leaks in the plumbing system. One source of leaks can be missing or damaged (perished) 'o' ring seal in the quick connect coupling between wing an fuselage. This source of leaks can also occur on any of the pitot and static connections although this is nothing to do with the stall warner system. One way or other this fault should not be too difficult to fix. PS if you have to adjust the pressure switch itself you will find that it is very sensitive and easy to over adjust. Take care. Pete Jeffers (LAA rep for The Europa Club) -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James McErlain Sent: 21 August 2020 00:55 Subject: Europa-List: Stall Warner Hello everyone, I'm a new Europa XS owner and even though my aircraft was built to a very high level of quality, Ive found a problem on the first flight which could some day mean the difference between life and death! The Stall Warner doesnt go off when the aircraft is stalled in any configuration i.e. power on or power off. Before the flight, while doing a walk-around I tested the 'Stall Warner' by sucking on it and it worked by sounding a very audible noise in the cockpit. Can anyone advise why it isnt sounding in flight when an actual stall takes place? Is there any configuration of the system necessary to set it up correctly? If there is, does anyone know how it should be carried out? Thank you in anticipation James from Ireland -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stall Warner
From: "clivesutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Aug 21, 2020
Hello James, welcome to the Europa community! I've not much to add to the replies you've had so far except to to echo Peter J's remark about how tricky it can be to set the switch sensitivity. The point between not working and working is very fine and can only really be done in flight. I had the same issue on mine at its initial permit testing and after changing the switch (which didn't help really) i found a way to extend the pipework and wiring so that the switch could be easily set from the P2 position [i put the switch behind the parcel tray moulding and drilled a hole through it to enable a watchmakers screwdriver to go into the switch]. Andy D then flew the aircraft close to 5kt above the stall whilst i adjusted the switch until it sounded. It took a few attempts. In case its useful, and whilst it does not compete with this bulletin board, there is also a Facebook page for Europa owners you might also find useful ATB Clive Sutton G-YETI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497895#497895 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stall Warner
From: DAVID JOYCE <stranfaer(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Aug 21, 2020
Smart ass is an excellent piece of kit, personally I use the aforementioned and stall strips, works very well David JoyceThe other one BXGG ------ Original Message ------ From: "Kevin Challis" <cakeykev(at)gmail.com> Sent: Friday, 21 Aug, 20 At 07:11 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Stall Warner Smartass better than a stall Warner in my opinion. I have no connection to the company. https://smartavionics.co.uk/prod-smartass.html Kevin Challis G ODJG On 21 Aug 2020, at 01:01, James McErlain wrote: e> Hello everyone, I'm a new Europa XS owner and even though my aircraft was built to a very high level of quality, I=99ve found a problem on the first fligh t which could some day mean the difference between life and death! The =98Stall Warner=99 doesn=99t go off when the aircraft is stalled in any configuration i.e. power on or power off. Before the flight, while doing a walk-around I tested the 'Stall Warner' by sucking on it and it worked by sounding a very audible noise in the cockpit. Can anyone advise why it isn=99t sounding in flight when an actual st all takes place? Is there any configuration of the system necessary to set it up correctly? If there is, does anyone know how it should be carried out? Thank you in anticipation James from Ireland Sent to you by David Joyce Hot Tubs, Swimming Pools & Saunas for discerning owners................ www.eastmidsspas.com <http://www.eastmidsspas.com/> The Zycomm Building 51 Nottingham Road Ripley Derbys DE5 3AS 250 Meters from Sainsbury's Island 0800 4102122 and Direct Mobile 07973 675755 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 21, 2020
Subject: Ignition issue and headset crackle
Bud has provided wisdom but I wondered if anyone else has suffered the same symptoms and might have a cure. I have a turbo 80hp. So it started with a crackle in the deadset that rose and fell with engine power. This occurred in mid flight after a normal mag check. Prior to this the Dynon Skyview had been without abnormal noise. On landing I found that the switching off the left mag silenced the crackle and switching off the right mag made the engine run rough. The CDIs have two "in" connectors from the pick ups and two "out" connectors to the coils. So I swapped the "in" connectors between CDI and the "out" connectors. Also I tried to start the engine with only one CDI connected to one out connector. Both CDI work with both in-connectors but both only work with one "out" connector to the coils. When the CDI is connected to the "wrong" coil the engine wont start. This leads me to the conclusion that I have a problem between the CDI and the plugs. In other words I have a problem in the coil system or in the HT/plug area. Agreed? If so, what is my next step? How do I test the coils? Will William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa Aircraft - location change
From: "ArmstrongJackson" <zeeshantapra(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 22, 2020
I did not have any tie restraint so this is the reason I asked some movers from the washington dc movers (https://bestmoversdmv.com/) to take my furniture. I chose their normal package so that they dont have to expedite it. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497909#497909 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Mono to TriGear Trailer Conversions
From: "clivesutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Aug 22, 2020
If anyone has converted their Factory Mono trailer to accommodate a TriGear, please could they point me at, or send me, some pictures of it? Clive S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497910#497910 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 22, 2020
Subject: The culprit headset crackle
This is the coil end of lower cyl 3 plug lead William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 22, 2020
Subject: Headset crackle culprit for interest
So this is the coil after id massacred it to see what happened. I found a loose plug lead (coil end) and dug the screw out of the lead. How long this had been like that i dont know....but it might have been like that for some time held in by the lead in the coil socket and the heat shield. William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 22, 2020
Subject: Coil end of the ht lead
William Daniell +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: =?utf-8?Q?Gert_Dalgaard_S=C3=B8rensen?= <stabelvej9(at)gmail.com>
Subject: New Europa ... ??
Date: Aug 27, 2020
Hi All Anyone who know where I can get a new =9CEuropa" ? This one, I got from Iwan 20 years ago, and together we have flown a lot of hours all over Europa. Now it either need overhaul or - even better - replacement =F0=9F=98=8E Regards Gert Dalgaard OY-GDS, 914, Woodcomp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2020
From: davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk
Subject: Memory foam UK
I have a largish quantity of 6.5cm thick memory foam , actually 2 lots of 150 x90 cm., which I am happy to give to anyone who cares to collect it. Having a layer of memory foam under and behind you is an effective way of lessening the damage to you in the case of a hard or crash landing. This comes from a NASA designed mattress just replaced by an even more expensive mattress at the instigation of she who sleeps on the other side of it! My cushions were made from 2.5 cm sheets of memory foam, which then came in three colours corresponding to three degrees of softness. This mattress foam I think corresponds to somewhere between the medium and softest versions, and would make good extra cushions to be available for small passengers Regards, David Joyce. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2020
Subject: Memory foam UK
From: europaul383 <europaul383(at)gmail.com>
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From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 28, 2020
Subject: Faston Size for Ignition connectors
Does anyone know the size of the faston male and female tabs for the faston ignition system connectors? thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Ignition module earth
Date: Sep 01, 2020
I am replacing my earth leads to the modules and need some termination pins with the rubber seal that push into the module plugs. Does anyone know a supplier? Regards Dave Park G -LDVO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Earth leads
Date: Sep 01, 2020
I am replacing the earth leads to my ignition modules and need the terminating pins with the rubber seal. Does anyone know the spec and supplier? Regards Dave Park. G -LDVO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition module earth
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=625 Duncan McF. > On 01 September 2020 at 12:05 david park wrote: > > > > I am replacing my earth leads to the modules and need some termination pins with the rubber seal that push into the module plugs. > Does anyone know a supplier? > Regards > Dave Park G -LDVO > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Earth leads
Date: Sep 01, 2020
Hi Dave, I think you want to search for Female Terminal 1500-0106 Sumitomo. However, caveat emptor. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ignition module earth
From: keith <keithbevhickling(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 02, 2020
Hi Dave, I don't know where you can get just pins and seals, but the complete plugs are available here: https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4318_1083_4776&zenid=ing6l3308dln6q5fqcnvhrrlt4 On 01-Sep-20 11:05 PM, david park wrote: > > I am replacing my earth leads to the modules and need some termination pins with the rubber seal that push into the module plugs. > Does anyone know a supplier? > Regards > Dave Park G -LDVO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ignition module earth
From: keith <keithbevhickling(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 02, 2020
Hi Dave, The pins and seals are available here (they look to be the same connectors but I haven't bought any so can not guarantee it): https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-HM/sm-hm.html Good luck, Keith. On 01-Sep-20 11:05 PM, david park wrote: > > I am replacing my earth leads to the modules and need some termination pins with the rubber seal that push into the module plugs. > Does anyone know a supplier? > Regards > Dave Park G -LDVO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airmaster EU/Dirk Oyen: Credit where credit is due.
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Sep 02, 2020
I'd like to echo the positive review! Dirk Oyen is THE Airmaster-man in Europe. That's why I only let him service my propeller... Roland PH-ZTI XS TG 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498131#498131 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steven Pitt <stevenwpitt(at)me.com>
Subject: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 03, 2020
I have had to repair my airbox as it split under the clamp. Can anyone tell me how critical the airflow into the carburettors via the box is? Do I need to ensure a smooth and equal airflow? I suspect not as the quality of the airbox is somewhat rudimentary. For information I made up some bid' tube and epoxied it into the existing airflow tube. I have tried to make the entrance a smooth as possible. Thank you. Steve Pitt G-SMDH ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Date: Sep 03, 2020
Steve, you should be fine as long as the internal diameter of the tube is equal to or greater than the internal diameter of the carb opening. Jeff "I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is to arrange the meeting." -Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf On 9/3/2020 8:40 AM, Steven Pitt wrote: > > I have had to repair my airbox as it split under the clamp. > Can anyone tell me how critical the airflow into the carburettors via the box is? Do I need to ensure a smooth and equal airflow? > > I suspect not as the quality of the airbox is somewhat rudimentary. > > For information I made up some bid' tube and epoxied it into the existing airflow tube. I have tried to make the entrance a smooth as possible. > > Thank you. > Steve Pitt > G-SMDH > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 03, 2020
When I had a airbox on initial build I bonded alloy tupe in to exits to strengthen them. Dave Park > On 3 Sep 2020, at 15:37, Jeff B wrote: > > > Steve, you should be fine as long as the internal diameter of the tube is equal to or greater than the internal diameter of the carb opening. > > Jeff > > "I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is to arrange the meeting." > > -Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf > >> On 9/3/2020 8:40 AM, Steven Pitt wrote: >> I have had to repair my airbox as it split under the clamp. >> Can anyone tell me how critical the airflow into the carburettors via the box is? Do I need to ensure a smooth and equal airflow? >> I suspect not as the quality of the airbox is somewhat rudimentary. >> For information I made up some bid' tube and epoxied it into the existing airflow tube. I have tried to make the entrance a smooth as possible. >> Thank you. >> Steve Pitt >> G-SMDH > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Steve, The air entry to the carbs is quite critical and should ideally be smooth and tapering inwards from a larger diameter, which the Europa airbox more or less achieves. Generally a 2 degree inward taper will help to preserve lamina flow in the runner, as is often seen on the runners of injected engines. This is further evidenced by the adverse impact on carburation that sharply curved SCAT tube and/or long parallel-sided runners has, such as on some Jabiru and VW installations. Duncan McF. > On 03 September 2020 at 15:30 Jeff B wrote: > > > > Steve, you should be fine as long as the internal diameter of the tube > is equal to or greater than the internal diameter of the carb opening. > > Jeff > > "I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is to arrange > the meeting." > > -Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf > > On 9/3/2020 8:40 AM, Steven Pitt wrote: > > > > I have had to repair my airbox as it split under the clamp. > > Can anyone tell me how critical the airflow into the carburettors via the box is? Do I need to ensure a smooth and equal airflow? > > > > I suspect not as the quality of the airbox is somewhat rudimentary. > > > > For information I made up some bid' tube and epoxied it into the existing airflow tube. I have tried to make the entrance a smooth as possible. > > > > Thank you. > > Steve Pitt > > G-SMDH > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Wheel Shimmy
From: "Matt Dovey" <mattdovey(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Date: Sep 03, 2020
When landing on a hard runway I always get nose wheel shimmy. I've checked the friction on the on the nose wheel fork and found no problem. Has anyone else had similar problems? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498144#498144 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy
Date: Sep 03, 2020
I have never experienced any problems and have the friction set as per the book. I do have a nose wheel spat, standard speed kit, and also hold the nose off the runway until the authority of the tailplane is lost. Alan G-OBJT > On 3 Sep 2020, at 17:58, Matt Dovey wrote: > > > When landing on a hard runway I always get nose wheel shimmy. I've checked the friction on the on the nose wheel fork and found no problem. Has anyone else had similar problems? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498144#498144 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Date: Sep 03, 2020
A little swipe of Nyogel 774VH on both sides of the fiber washer then torqued to spec will solve the problem. Jeff "I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is to arrange the meeting." -Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf On 9/3/2020 11:58 AM, Matt Dovey wrote: > > When landing on a hard runway I always get nose wheel shimmy. I've checked the friction on the on the nose wheel fork and found no problem. Has anyone else had similar problems? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498144#498144 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul Hawkins <1963paulhawkins(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2020
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy
To kill shimmy 100% of the time full rudder preferably into wind but either way the will break the nose-wheel swinging from side to side, in the past I=99ve tried everything replacing parts raising the nosewheel and gen tly let down / slamming it down the only thing that works is catching it early with full rudder the shimmy will stops immediately straighten up and continue down the runway. The key to not getting shimmy in the first place *never ever* pull the power off just over the runway on short final, you=99ve got the speed right leave the power where it is until you land then kill the power or glide onto the runway from height. Cheers Paul G-ROOV 914 XS On Thu, 3 Sep 2020 at 22:30, Jeff B wrote: > > A little swipe of Nyogel 774VH on both sides of the fiber washer then > torqued to spec will solve the problem. > > Jeff > > "I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is to arrange > the meeting." > > -Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf > > On 9/3/2020 11:58 AM, Matt Dovey wrote: k > > > > > > When landing on a hard runway I always get nose wheel shimmy. I've > checked the friction on the on the nose wheel fork and found no problem. > Has anyone else had similar problems? > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498144#498144 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 04, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Propeller? Gearbox? "Wow-wow-wow" resonance
Can also be a worn propshaft bearing(s), where the shaft is rotating in the bearing (as normal) and simultaneously orbiting around the centre of that rotation (allowed by radial play). Duncan McF. > On 19 June 2020 at 14:58 clivesutton wrote: > > > > Hi Jonathan, what you describe is 'Heterodyning' or 'Beat-frequency' created by the difference between two noise or vibration frequencies very close together. > > Do you have a recording on e.g. a mobile phone that i could listen to - along with the engine speeds in play at the time? And what about:- > > 1) How the frequency of 'wow-wow' change if you speed up or slow down the engine a bit? > 2) How does the 'wow-wow' effect change with Airspeed? > 3) the CS mode idea is viable too - does it occur when that is turned off/the prop is not trying to hunt for optimum speed vs pitch? > > It's impossible to say from just the description given, but assuming the above items make a significant difference, my initial suspicions would be one prop blade with a slightly different prop pitch to the others and/or blade tip tracking differences between blades. Both of those parameters should be quite easy to check on the ground (no engine running needed) and reporting any variation you find? > > Clive > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496930#496930 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steven Pitt <stevenwpitt(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 05, 2020
Now I have a dilemma. I have measured the diameter of the inner carburettor at 45mm. The airbox outer tube is 48/49mm - the inner diameter 39 and 42mm (these measurements after my fix - several layers of bid to strengthen the orifices after they collapsed under the tightness of the worm driven band). I have never had a problem with the carburettors and never given any thought to a mismatch between the two diameters. I was always aware the the box was poorly finished and the air intakes were easy to crush, but with the bolt holding the box to the engine frame it had never departed giving me an inflight issue. It is also notable that the two orifices were not the same size even before the collapse. The only way I can see to equalise the two is to rebuild the airbox as per Dave Ps suggestion - cut the ends off - find an aluminium tube with inside diameter of 45mm and bond that in with bid. Anyone got any tube to that size? Anyone else wishing to add any advice before I carve the boxes up. Also what is the airbox made from? It looks like chopped strand mat fibreglass. Regards Steve G-SMDH > On 3 Sep 2020, at 15:45, david park wrote: > > > When I had a airbox on initial build I bonded alloy tupe in to exits to strengthen them. > > Dave Park > > >> On 3 Sep 2020, at 15:37, Jeff B wrote: >> >> >> Steve, you should be fine as long as the internal diameter of the tube is equal to or greater than the internal diameter of the carb opening. >> >> Jeff >> >> "I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is to arrange the meeting." >> >> -Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf >> >>> On 9/3/2020 8:40 AM, Steven Pitt wrote: >>> I have had to repair my airbox as it split under the clamp. >>> Can anyone tell me how critical the airflow into the carburettors via the box is? Do I need to ensure a smooth and equal airflow? >>> I suspect not as the quality of the airbox is somewhat rudimentary. >>> For information I made up some bid' tube and epoxied it into the existing airflow tube. I have tried to make the entrance a smooth as possible. >>> Thank you. >>> Steve Pitt >>> G-SMDH >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: MGL EFIS and autopilot
From: "maxe59" <maxearnshaw(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 05, 2020
I have a Trigear classic with 914 and Arplast prop. I am considering installing an MGL Challenger EFIS and possibly autopilot servos. Has anyone out there installed a similar set up? If so, any tips, tricks or pitfalls to be aware of? I look forward to hearing from someone. Cheers Max Earnshaw ZK-VMC Christchurch, New Zealand Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498154#498154 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 06, 2020
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Cg= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MGL EFIS and autopilot
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sep 06, 2020
I had the MGL Vogager EFIS and used the Trio Servos. I could not get them to work correctly. MGL Torrance sold them to me, but they told me that Trio was the problem and Trio told me that the problem was with MGL. Before you buy an autopilot system for the Europa you need to determine if your plane flies straight & level. How much force is needed to bring the nose up or down once it leaves altitude. For whatever reason by plane took more force to bring it back to lever than the Trio servo could deliver and would trip and shut down after a few minutes of trying. If you go back into this Forum you find a lot of question on how to get them set up. The roll axles worked and it was easy to install in the co-pilot seat area. The big problem is the pitch servo and how it connects to the pitch torque tube. I have to manufacture a clamp with a horn on it. Europa now makes a pitch tube with the horn welded to it. I know that the MGL servos worked very well with the later model of the MGL EFIS . You might check out their forum. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498157#498157 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MGL EFIS and autopilot
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sep 06, 2020
I had the MGL Vogager EFIS and used the Trio Servos. I could not get them to work correctly. MGL Torrance sold them to me, but they told me that Trio was the problem and Trio told me that the problem was with MGL. Before you buy an autopilot system for the Europa you need to determine if your plane flies straight & level. How much force is needed to bring the nose up or down once it leaves altitude. For whatever reason by plane took more force to bring it back to level than the Trio servo could deliver and would trip and shut down after a few minutes of trying. If you go back into this Forum you find a lot of question on how to get them set up. The roll axles worked and it was easy to install in the co-pilot seat area. The big problem is the pitch servo and how it connects to the pitch torque tube. I had to manufacture a clamp with a horn on it. Europa now makes a pitch tube with the horn welded to it. I know that the MGL servos worked very well with the later models of the MGL EFIS . You might check out their forum. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498158#498158 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
From: "budyerly(at)msn.com" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2020
Steve, The bing 64 has a 50mm OD inlet for the filter or airbox attachment. The bore is nominally 36mm. The airbox (aka really cheap polyester chop and glass bit from Europa) have ends that attach to the carb are 50 mm tapering up 52 mm ish. The chop on some of these is so bad I had to reinforce it for the pop rivets on the nutplate it shattered so bad. Jeff Roberts was the first I had seen modify his airbox due to cracking. It appeared he used a piece of two inch aluminum tubing and slid it into the well ground out holes in his airbox and aligned the tubes with his carbs and allowed the floxed tubes to cure, then wrapped the glass around the tube outside the rubber tube to final bond the outside of his tubing. I copied Jeffs later on using the 1 7/8 inch aluminum tube left over from the main pitch rod. I ground out the cracked airbox and inserted the 1 7/8 (47.6 mm) tube with flox and Redux (any epoxy will do) and then wrapped layers of bid around until I was about 50 mm or 1 15/16 inches diameter. Then shaped to get an easy fit of my two inch rubber hose. I was OK with this method since the connecting hose allowed the two inlets on the bing carb inlet sufficient clean air for normal operation. On a later aircraft I used 2 inch tube. The hose clamp clearly compressed the hose more on the carb side than on the inlet box with the two inch tube. Epoxy sticks to just about anything but oil and grease so it will make a good repair bond to the clean and roughed up polyester without a problem of bonding. Remember to rough up the aluminum as usual also. So you have two methods, either an innie or outie method. Note: The airbox does not have to be really smooth on the inside. It is a plenum not a tuned inlet. The bing carb sucks air rather than ram air entering the carb on the 912S. The transition humps and bumps should be minimized but just make both ends about the same and all will be fine. Remember, the bing has an inlet on the inside above and below the bore so make sure they can get reasonably clear air... Of course Rotax wants you to buy their $1000 intake plenum. The only problem is it tends to lack support and since it hangs on the carb, it cracks those expensive 43mm rubber carb manifold to carb flange. Support the inlet plenum, that supports the carb and those rubber carb flange adapters last almost forever. Just my opinion, Best Regards to Mary also, Bud Yerly Best Regards, Bud Yerly Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498159#498159 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy
From: "budyerly(at)msn.com" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2020
Replace the plastic disk if it shows signs of wear. Inspect your fork properly. The nose tire pressure has much to do with the shimmy. If below 20 pounds it is terrible. 35 pounds and it is a delight. I set my dampener friction between 19 and 21 pounds of pull at the back of the tire. Use a loop of safety wire around the nut long enough to go around the back of the tire (wheel pant off please) and use a fish scale to do the pull test. Typically the break out force is higher than the running or turning force required to maintain the nose fork turn. If it breaks initially at 21 it is fine for asphalt surfaces and for use on grass go a bit lower. 16 pounds is a bit too low for initial break out in my opinion. Various sticky greases Nylogel or similar help for dynamic steering and taxi ease with the rudder. I find them useful but not necessary with a nice slick plastic disk and smooth surfaces on the metal plates. If the metal surface is worn with groves, fix it. If the spindle is loose, get a new fork or find someone to fix it dead vertical. Finally, never inject grease under pressure to lube the nose fork. Grease blows by the O ring and screws up the friction and makes a mess. On my annual condition inspection, I simply remove my fork and tire, inspect the components, check for tightness and lube with a finger full of thick grease (Aeroshell 22) on the recess in the strut receptacle, and bearing area and I'm good for another year. It's been 14 years and still doing well enough. Bud Yerly Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498160#498160 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Stall Warner
From: "budyerly(at)msn.com" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2020
I've attached an old paper to a current document I have for working on second hand purchases and stall spin accidents in experimental aircraft. It is from notes and early papers I kept at Custom Flight Creations. It should at least lead you to making an informed decision. Bud Yerly Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498162#498162 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/stall_warning_types_for_the_europa_with_evaluation_of_stall_strips_130.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MGL EFIS and autopilot
From: "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2020
I have a DynAero MCR-4S based in Auckland NZ that has two Voyagers originally fitted with Trio servos which worked very well. I replaced the Trios with MGL servos because I am going from a 2 to 3 axis auto pilot and can use the same CAN bus to control all 3. Currently flying 2 axis, it took a little more tweaking to get the MGL's servos tuned and used the MGL forum to get help from an European colleague operating a MCR-4S (sad to see the old MGL forum disappear). PM me if you require further information. Cheers Peter -------- Peter Armstrong Auckland, New Zealand DynAero MCR-4S (Do not shoot me :) ). Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498163#498163 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: =?UTF-8?Q?Erik_Dahlb=c3=a4ck?= <erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com>
Subject: Rear wing root socket problems
Date: Sep 06, 2020
Hello, First time posting here, hoping my attached photos are small enough, etc... I'm trying to get Europa SE-XRX airworthy again after being grounded for two years. At first due to some hard-to-diagnose carburettor problems. 914 float bowls, enough said... If interested, I have a post about it over at Rotax-Owners: https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/912-914-technical-questions/6881-914ul-carburettor-gremlins?start=15 PROBLEM NO 1 Anyway, after fixing the engine and while doing the annual together with the previous owner/builder, it was discovered that the rear wing socket housing, part W26B, starboard side, was cracked in two parts. Further inspection showed that also the port side was cracked, albeit not having split in two just yet. Please see attached photos. I've got the spares from the manufacturer however, I'm curious if this is a known problem? Any thoughts on what could be the cause? Anything further to look out for? My local mechanic seemed just as puzzled as I was when looking at how thin this part is. I mean what is it, 2 mm? One thing to consider: The aircraft was built as a monowheel but crashed on takeoff during flight testing, making a hard landing and a ground loop. The incident was traced to a construction error in the control line attachment to the rudder, causing alterations in the design (some of might be familiar with this). The aircraft was then repaired (by some sailplane workshop that seemed to know what they were doing, I've seen the photos at least). Among other things it got a new tail, a CS prop and was rebuilt as a trigear. Might this new discovery simply be residue of that old incident? Also, the builder's manual states that the W26B and C parts should be loctited together. However, there was no trace of this. I'm not sure if that instruction has been there since the beginning or if it could be a later revision? However, I sort of have my doubts as to some loctite being able to strenghten this construction enough to not break from whatever broke this...? Finally, any thoughts on how to reassemble these parts? Where does the Loctite go? Just on the barrel and make sure the holes align before i dries? How to you avoid getting loctite on the surfaces between the barrel and the socket body (W26A)? PROBLEM NO 2 Due to various reasons, I only got around to cleaning the grease off the rear socket assemblies, in preparation for reassembly, but doing the loctite-work in a cold hangar, etc, and also enlisting the help of the very busy local mechanic, was more than I could get done before last winter. Now, on inspection, the W26A socket bodies show signs of corrosion. Please see the other attached photos. Anyone have an opinion on just how bad this is? Do they also need changing? And does that require composite-work? I've been looking through the builder's manual but I'm afraid I'm not quite up to understanding all of it. Any thoughts on both of the above issues would be greatly appreciated! Sincerely, Erik Gunneland Dahlbck Linkping, Sweden Europa SE-XRX ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
From: "SwiftTG" <david.stanbridge(at)swifttg.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2020
I just wanted to comment on a note in Buds reply regarding the "really cheap polyester chop and glass bit from Europa". I do not know what part is being referred to but nothing is now supplied from Europa in chop strand. As a relevant example the Mod 42 airbox is manufactured from 92125 cloth. -------- David Stanbridge Europa Aircraft (2004) Limited www.europa-aircraft.com technical@europa-aircraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498165#498165 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 07, 2020
David, And we thank you for the quality parts now manufactured. There was a time in the early 2000s that even the gelcoat was flaking and c racking terribly on all the accessory parts like speed kits and cowls. Thanks again, Bud Yerly Sent from Mail for Window s 10 From: SwiftTG<mailto:david.stanbridge(at)swifttg.com> Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 7:32 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Airbox for 912S I just wanted to comment on a note in Buds reply regarding the "really chea p polyester chop and glass bit from Europa". I do not know what part is bei ng referred to but nothing is now supplied from Europa in chop strand. As a relevant example the Mod 42 airbox is manufactured from 92125 cloth. -------- David Stanbridge Europa Aircraft (2004) Limited www.europa-aircraft.com<http://www.europa-aircraft.com> technical@europa-aircraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498165#498165 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Rear wing root socket problems
Date: Sep 07, 2020
Sorry to hear of your issues. The failure of the socket indicates the crash may have been more severe tha n anticipated. In all my years, I=92ve seen corrosion on older socket parts that were not as well protected as the new bits are. I have never seen a failure in the 26A as this was a well engineered and tested part by Europa. If installed backwards, this can happen. Please contact Europa Aircraft because the W26 part assembly has not been a n issue and replacement of the corroded items may be smart. This area is a critical flight component and the annual inspection and repair may have mi ssed this part may have been damaged or assembled incorrectly. If the sock et inner W26B failed, was the interior tube and attachments properly instal led, checked and inspected is the question. Loctite is between the barrel and that thin rectangular piece you call it s o they operate as a unit. The wing pin goes into the fully assembled socke t and allows it to move up and down just a bit. If not Loctited the barrel can rotate and make pin insertion more difficult. (Frankly, during wing i nstall, simply note the orientation of the barrel is all that is needed.) N ote that the assembly thin side goes on the fuselage side. Don=92t get tha t backwards as it builds up stress and may be a part of the failure you see . As far as the structural strength, the yoke piece 26A and the barrel 26C ca rry the load of the wing pulling forward under max G load. This barrel is designed to move up and down. As for the Rotax 914: There is a long and boring troubleshooting guide on my website on keeping t he 914 running true. The carbs are easily rebuilt with proper attention to detail. I find the Rotax engine forum informational, but doesn=92t cover in enough detail. I do find the videos provided by Rotax to be quite compl ete. The paper I did covers various phases and expands troubleshooting. S ee the techniques section for an updated version since published in the Eur opa Club magazine. Bud Yerly www.customflightcreations.com Sent from Mail for Window s 10 From: Erik Dahlb=E4ck<mailto:erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com> Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 5:18 PM Subject: Europa-List: Rear wing root socket problems Hello, First time posting here, hoping my attached photos are small enough, etc... I'm trying to get Europa SE-XRX airworthy again after being grounded for two years. At first due to some hard-to-diagnose carburettor problems. 914 float bowls, enough said... If interested, I have a post about it over at Rotax-Owners: https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rot ax-owner.com%2Fen%2F912-914-technical-questions%2F6881-914ul-carburettor-gr emlins%3Fstart%3D15&data=02%7C01%7C%7C8482b0ef213641821e7208d852aa5b7 2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637350238926500351&sdata =pMvGV5%2BI41Zjnn3nQnSV8Wo37dGxDwnn9%2Ff%2Bu5P7T%2F0%3D&reserved=0 PROBLEM NO 1 Anyway, after fixing the engine and while doing the annual together with the previous owner/builder, it was discovered that the rear wing socket housing, part W26B, starboard side, was cracked in two parts. Further inspection showed that also the port side was cracked, albeit not having split in two just yet. Please see attached photos. I've got the spares from the manufacturer however, I'm curious if this is a known problem? Any thoughts on what could be the cause? Anything further to look out for? My local mechanic seemed just as puzzled as I was when looking at how thin this part is. I mean what is it, 2 mm? One thing to consider: The aircraft was built as a monowheel but crashed on takeoff during flight testing, making a hard landing and a ground loop. The incident was traced to a construction error in the control line attachment to the rudder, causing alterations in the design (some of might be familiar with this). The aircraft was then repaired (by some sailplane workshop that seemed to know what they were doing, I've seen the photos at least). Among other things it got a new tail, a CS prop and was rebuilt as a trigear. Might this new discovery simply be residue of that old incident? Also, the builder's manual states that the W26B and C parts should be loctited together. However, there was no trace of this. I'm not sure if that instruction has been there since the beginning or if it could be a later revision? However, I sort of have my doubts as to some loctite being able to strenghten this construction enough to not break from whatever broke this...? Finally, any thoughts on how to reassemble these parts? Where does the Loctite go? Just on the barrel and make sure the holes align before i dries? How to you avoid getting loctite on the surfaces between the barrel and the socket body (W26A)? PROBLEM NO 2 Due to various reasons, I only got around to cleaning the grease off the rear socket assemblies, in preparation for reassembly, but doing the loctite-work in a cold hangar, etc, and also enlisting the help of the very busy local mechanic, was more than I could get done before last winter . Now, on inspection, the W26A socket bodies show signs of corrosion. Please see the other attached photos. Anyone have an opinion on just how bad this is? Do they also need changing? And does that require composite-work? I've been looking through the builder's manual but I'm afraid I'm not quite up to understanding all of it. Any thoughts on both of the above issues would be greatly appreciated! Sincerely, Erik Gunneland Dahlb=E4ck Link=F6ping, Sweden Europa SE-XRX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Churchill-Coleman <richard.churchill-coleman(at)sky.com>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 07, 2020
Bud Not just the accessories - I have a fuselage top with flaking =98gelco at=99 which I am still trying to resolve. Richard C-C Sent from my iPad > On 7 Sep 2020, at 13:30, Bud Yerly wrote: > > =EF=BB > David, > And we thank you for the quality parts now manufactured. > There was a time in the early 2000s that even the gelcoat was flaking and c racking terribly on all the accessory parts like speed kits and cowls. > > Thanks again, > > Bud Yerly > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: SwiftTG > Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 7:32 AM > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Airbox for 912S > > > > I just wanted to comment on a note in Buds reply regarding the "really che ap polyester chop and glass bit from Europa". I do not know what part is bei ng referred to but nothing is now supplied from Europa in chop strand. As a r elevant example the Mod 42 airbox is manufactured from 92125 cloth. > > -------- > David Stanbridge > > Europa Aircraft (2004) Limited > www.europa-aircraft.com > > technical@europa-aircraft.com > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498165#498165 > > > > > > > ========== > st Email Forum - > pa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > ========== > p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > ums.matronics.com > ========== > p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - > matronics.com > ========== > p; - List Contribution Web Site - > p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: 914 Float Bowl Issues
Date: Sep 07, 2020
Hello Erik, I just read your post on the Rotax-Owners site. The issue you described has long plagued many 914 owners. Jim Butcher and I recently published an article in the Europa Flyer addressing this issue (and others) as well as a fix. If you aren't a member you might consider joining. Good information specific to the Europa is disseminated. As a result of the COVID-19 the Europa Club held its annual membership meeting virtually. I must say, using ZOOM opened up the audience internationally with many USA builders able to join, myself included. Anyway, specific to the loose float bowl, I modified the float bowl to accept the 912 spring clamp which provides the requisite pressure on the gasket as it ages and shrinks. The bolt is still utilized, however, the clamping pressure is provided by the spring clip. Pretty straight forward modification requiring that the cast nub on the bottom of the float bowl, adjacent to the bolt hole, be removed. This allows the spring clip to fully seat. I used a Dremel, although, a file will do the trick. Let me know if you have any questions. Kind regards, Erich N28ET Classic Mono 914 ____________________________________________________________ Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more Gender Reveal Party Has Now Burned Through 7K Acres http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f56497cc9dbc497b6e0fst03duc1 Booted Djokovic Sorry for Hitting Line Judge With Ball http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f56497ced459497b6e0fst03duc2 US Sailor Goes Missing From Aircraft Carrier http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f56497d1ab6c497b6e0fst03duc3 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Rear wing root socket problems
The (substantial) wear marks on W26A show that is was installed the correc t way around. The wear mark on the inside vertical surface of W26 just above the central bolt indicate that at some point W26A was leaning heavily on W26 in a 'nega tive g' direction of loading, which may explain how it then broke i.e. the weight of the wing transmitted in bending through the lift pin caused W26A to lever against W26. That wouldn't occur during a normal flight maneuver and when properly rigge d. Perhaps the downward leverage occurred during derigging after removing t he spar pins, and assuming the spar cups were misplaced. I'd check the lift pins for bending too and that these are not angled (or b ent) above the centreline of the inboard spar projections (and/or that W26 has been set vertically). Duncan Mcf. > On 07 September 2020 at 14:31 Bud Yerly wrote: > > > Sorry to hear of your issues. > > > > The failure of the socket indicates the crash may have been more seve re than anticipated. > > In all my years, I=99ve seen corrosion on older socket parts th at were not as well protected as the new bits are. I have never seen a fai lure in the 26A as this was a well engineered and tested part by Europa. I f installed backwards, this can happen. > > > > Please contact Europa Aircraft because the W26 part assembly has not been an issue and replacement of the corroded items may be smart. This are a is a critical flight component and the annual inspection and repair may h ave missed this part may have been damaged or assembled incorrectly. If th e socket inner W26B failed, was the interior tube and attachments properly installed, checked and inspected is the question. > > > > Loctite is between the barrel and that thin rectangular piece you cal l it so they operate as a unit. The wing pin goes into the fully assembled socket and allows it to move up and down just a bit. If not Loctited the barrel can rotate and make pin insertion more difficult. (Frankly, during wing install, simply note the orientation of the barrel is all that is need ed.) Note that the assembly thin side goes on the fuselage side. Don =99t get that backwards as it builds up stress and may be a part of the fai lure you see. > > > > As far as the structural strength, the yoke piece 26A and the barrel 26C carry the load of the wing pulling forward under max G load. This barr el is designed to move up and down. > > > > As for the Rotax 914: > > There is a long and boring troubleshooting guide on my website on kee ping the 914 running true. The carbs are easily rebuilt with proper attent ion to detail. I find the Rotax engine forum informational, but doesn =99t cover in enough detail. I do find the videos provided by Rotax to be quite complete. The paper I did covers various phases and expands troub leshooting. See the techniques section for an updated version since publis hed in the Europa Club magazine. > > > > Bud Yerly > > www.customflightcreations.com > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for W indows 10 > > > > From: Erik Dahlb=C3=A4ck mailto:erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com > Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 5:18 PM > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com mailto:europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: Rear wing root socket problems > > > > Hello, > > First time posting here, hoping my attached photos are small enough, etc... > > I'm trying to get Europa SE-XRX airworthy again after being grounded for > two years. At first due to some hard-to-diagnose carburettor problems . > 914 float bowls, enough said... If interested, I have a post about it > over at Rotax-Owners: > https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fw ww.rotax-owner.com%2Fen%2F912-914-technical-questions%2F6881-914ul-carburet tor-gremlins%3Fstart%3D15&data=02%7C01%7C%7C8482b0ef213641821e7208d85 2aa5b72%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637350238926500351& ;sdata=pMvGV5%2BI41Zjnn3nQnSV8Wo37dGxDwnn9%2Ff%2Bu5P7T%2F0%3D&reserve d=0 > > > PROBLEM NO 1 > > Anyway, after fixing the engine and while doing the annual together w ith > the previous owner/builder, it was discovered that the rear wing sock et > housing, part W26B, starboard side, was cracked in two parts. Further > inspection showed that also the port side was cracked, albeit not hav ing > split in two just yet. Please see attached photos. > > I've got the spares from the manufacturer however, I'm curious if thi s > is a known problem? Any thoughts on what could be the cause? Anything > further to look out for? > > My local mechanic seemed just as puzzled as I was when looking at how > thin this part is. I mean what is it, 2 mm? > > One thing to consider: The aircraft was built as a monowheel but cras hed > on takeoff during flight testing, making a hard landing and a ground > loop. The incident was traced to a construction error in the control > line attachment to the rudder, causing alterations in the design (som e > of might be familiar with this). The aircraft was then repaired (by s ome > sailplane workshop that seemed to know what they were doing, I've see n > the photos at least). Among other things it got a new tail, a CS prop > and was rebuilt as a trigear. Might this new discovery simply be resi due > of that old incident? > > Also, the builder's manual states that the W26B and C parts should be > loctited together. However, there was no trace of this. I'm not sure if > that instruction has been there since the beginning or if it could be a > later revision? However, I sort of have my doubts as to some loctite > being able to strenghten this construction enough to not break from > whatever broke this...? > > Finally, any thoughts on how to reassemble these parts? Where does th e > Loctite go? Just on the barrel and make sure the holes align before i > dries? How to you avoid getting loctite on the surfaces between the > barrel and the socket body (W26A)? > > > PROBLEM NO 2 > > Due to various reasons, I only got around to cleaning the grease off the > rear socket assemblies, in preparation for reassembly, but doing the > loctite-work in a cold hangar, etc, and also enlisting the help of th e > very busy local mechanic, was more than I could get done before last winter. > > Now, on inspection, the W26A socket bodies show signs of corrosion. > Please see the other attached photos. Anyone have an opinion on just how > bad this is? Do they also need changing? And does that require > composite-work? I've been looking through the builder's manual but I' m > afraid I'm not quite up to understanding all of it. > > > Any thoughts on both of the above issues would be greatly appreciated ! > > > Sincerely, > > Erik Gunneland Dahlb=C3=A4ck > Link=C3=B6ping, Sweden > Europa SE-XRX > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Cook <iancook_1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 07, 2020
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Date: Sep 07, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: UK DOTH
Anyone up for a DOTH in the southern half (England/Wales) of the UK this week? Wednesday or Thursday, venue TBA but many places now open. Early mist/fog could be an issue in some areas (Severn Valley for example) by then. Duncan McF. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Daniell <wdaniell.longport(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2020
Subject: Re: 914 Float Bowl Issues
I have a turbo 912 with the stock spring clips on the float bowl. The key is to use nitrile or cork float bowl gaskets. Will William Daniell LONGPORT +1 786 878 0246 On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 10:58 AM wrote: > Hello Erik, > > > I just read your post on the Rotax-Owners site. The issue you described > has long plagued many 914 owners. Jim Butcher and I recently published a n > article in the Europa Flyer addressing this issue (and others) as well as a > fix. If you aren=99t a member you might consider joining. Good in formation > specific to the Europa is disseminated. As a result of the COVID-19 the > Europa Club held its annual membership meeting virtually. I must say, > using ZOOM opened up the audience internationally with many USA builders > able to join, myself included. > > > Anyway, specific to the loose float bowl, I modified the float bowl to > accept the 912 spring clamp which provides the requisite pressure on the > gasket as it ages and shrinks. The bolt is still utilized, however, the > clamping pressure is provided by the spring clip. Pretty straight forwar d > modification requiring that the cast nub on the bottom of the float bowl, > adjacent to the bolt hole, be removed. This allows the spring clip to > fully seat. I used a Dremel, although, a file will do the trick. > > > Let me know if you have any questions. > > > Kind regards, > > Erich > > N28ET Classic Mono 914 > > > ____________________________________________________________ > > Top News - Sponsored By Newser > > > - *Gender Reveal Party Has Now Burned Through 7K Acres* > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3132/5f56497cc9dbc497b6e0fst03duc 1> > - *Booted Djokovic Sorry for Hitting Line Judge With Ball* > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3132/5f56497ced459497b6e0fst03duc 2> > - *US Sailor Goes Missing From Aircraft Carrier* > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3132/5f56497d1ab6c497b6e0fst03duc 3> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Twigg <alan.twigg775(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 07, 2020
Not flown yet but complete and paperwork at the LAA actually being worked ri ght now. Alan Sent from my iPhone > On 7 Sep 2020, at 16:14, Ian Cook wrote: > > =EF=BB Richard how is the building going. With Bicester closing down I d on=99t Alan Twigg has still not flown his MG yet. I now have about 70H rs on mine, > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On 7 Sep 2020, at 15:38, Richard Churchill-Coleman wrote: >>> >> =EF=BB Bud >> >> Not just the accessories - I have a fuselage top with flaking =98ge lcoat=99 which I am still trying to resolve. >> >> Richard C-C >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >>> On 7 Sep 2020, at 13:30, Bud Yerly wrote: >>> >>> =EF=BB >>> David, >>> And we thank you for the quality parts now manufactured. >>> There was a time in the early 2000s that even the gelcoat was flaking an d cracking terribly on all the accessory parts like speed kits and cowls. >>> >>> Thanks again, >>> >>> Bud Yerly >>> >>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >>> >>> From: SwiftTG >>> Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 7:32 AM >>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Airbox for 912S >>> om> >>> >>> I just wanted to comment on a note in Buds reply regarding the "really c heap polyester chop and glass bit from Europa". I do not know what part is b eing referred to but nothing is now supplied from Europa in chop strand. As a relevant example the Mod 42 airbox is manufactured from 92125 cloth. >>> >>> -------- >>> David Stanbridge >>> >>> Europa Aircraft (2004) Limited >>> www.europa-aircraft.com >>> >>> technical@europa-aircraft.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498165#498165 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ========== >>> st Email Forum - >>> pa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >>> ========== >>> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >>> ums.matronics.com >>> ========== >>> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >>> matronics.com >>> ========== >>> p; - List Contribution Web Site - >>> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> ========== >>> >>> >>> >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Twigg <alan.twigg775(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
Date: Sep 07, 2020
Ian, only the gliding club has closed. 6 gliders and a tug remain privately. GA still active and busier than before. Visitors welcome. Alan Sent from my iPhone > On 7 Sep 2020, at 17:01, Alan Twigg wrote: > > =EF=BBNot flown yet but complete and paperwork at the LAA actually bein g worked right now. > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On 7 Sep 2020, at 16:14, Ian Cook wrote: >>> >> =EF=BB Richard how is the building going. With Bicester closing down I don=99t Alan Twigg has still not flown his MG yet. I now have about 7 0Hrs on mine, >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On 7 Sep 2020, at 15:38, Richard Churchill-Coleman wrote: >>> >>> =EF=BB Bud >>> >>> Not just the accessories - I have a fuselage top with flaking =98g elcoat=99 which I am still trying to resolve. >>> >>> Richard C-C >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> >>>> On 7 Sep 2020, at 13:30, Bud Yerly wrote: >>>> >>>> =EF=BB >>>> David, >>>> And we thank you for the quality parts now manufactured. >>>> There was a time in the early 2000s that even the gelcoat was flaking a nd cracking terribly on all the accessory parts like speed kits and cowls. >>>> >>>> Thanks again, >>>> >>>> Bud Yerly >>>> >>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >>>> >>>> From: SwiftTG >>>> Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 7:32 AM >>>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com >>>> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Airbox for 912S >>>> com> >>>> >>>> I just wanted to comment on a note in Buds reply regarding the "really c heap polyester chop and glass bit from Europa". I do not know what part is b eing referred to but nothing is now supplied from Europa in chop strand. As a relevant example the Mod 42 airbox is manufactured from 92125 cloth. >>>> >>>> -------- >>>> David Stanbridge >>>> >>>> Europa Aircraft (2004) Limited >>>> www.europa-aircraft.com >>>> >>>> technical@europa-aircraft.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Read this topic online here: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498165#498165 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ========== >>>> st Email Forum - >>>> pa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >>>> ========== >>>> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >>>> ums.matronics.com >>>> ========== >>>> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >>>> matronics.com >>>> ========== >>>> p; - List Contribution Web Site - >>>> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>>> ========== >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
From: "Hitchflight" <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
Hi Duncan Great idea. Im free Wednesday and Friday. Where do you propose? Regards Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498204#498204 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
Apart from the obvious religious and older English connotations, what doth you mean by "DOTH"? It seems to be known only among the flying fraternity in England. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498225#498225 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Email Security Gateway" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: User Quarantine Account Information
Date: Sep 08, 2020
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Date: Sep 08, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
Bicester is quite central. A bit expensive at 15. D. > On 08 September 2020 at 10:01 Hitchflight wrote: > > > > Hi Duncan > > Great idea. Im free Wednesday and Friday. Where do you propose? > > Regards > > Bob > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498204#498204 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
Subject: Re: User Quarantine Account Information
Matt, Apparently, I have received one of these for each of my accounts (Rotax, Europa & AeroElectric) Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop. Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP, Hercules Prop. 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger(at)mac.com > On Sep 8, 2020, at 4:46 AM, Email Security Gateway wrote: > > Welcome to the Email Security Gateway . This message contains the information you will need to access your Spam Quarantine and Preferences. > > Your account has been set to the following username and password: > Username: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Password: JX+v=VYJKdrqNx9G > > To login to your Spam Quarantine use the following link: https://96.68.171.21 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
From: "Hitchflight" <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
JonathanMilbank wrote: > Apart from the obvious biblical and older English connotations, what doth you mean by "DOTH"? It seemeth only to be known among the flying fraternity in England. Google hath not given a relevant answer. DOTH = Drop Of The Hat PS Thanks for all your advice on the Scotland trip. LambHolm and your friend Tommy was a delight. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498254#498254 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
From: "Hitchflight" <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
Duncan McFadyean wrote: > Bicester is quite central. A bit expensive at 15. > D > > [/quote]Never been there before. Happy with that choice. Food available? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498255#498255 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
From: "BobD" <rjdawson14(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
I would love to have joined the DOTH, but unfortunately the exhaust pipe on? No. 2 cylinder has failed (again), so I am grounded, until a replacement arrives. -------- Bob Dawson Europa XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ || Dynon Skyview || PilotAware || SmartAss3 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498257#498257 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
From: Bob Hitchcock <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
Hi Duncan Thanks. Have just PPRd. The chap has told me about the heritage centre and coffee and cake shop See you late morning. PPR mandatory. Regards Bob > On 8 Sep 2020, at 14:51, D McFadyean wrote: > > Not sure. Take sandwiches! > Visitor instructions attached. > > Duncan. >> On 08 September 2020 at 12:44 Hitchflight wrote: >> >> >> >> >> Duncan McFadyean wrote: >>> Bicester is quite central. A bit expensive at 15. >>> D >>> >>> >> [/quote]Never been there before. Happy with that choice. Food available? >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498255#498255 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
From: "Hitchflight" <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2020
01869 254841 is the new phone number for mandatory PPR. Coffee, cake and sandwiches shop will be open. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498265#498265 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2020
From: D McFadyean <ami-mcfadyean(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: UK DOTH
Now confirmed as Bicester, late morning Wednesday 9th. D. > On 07 September 2020 at 16:22 D McFadyean wrote: > > > Anyone up for a DOTH in the southern half (England/Wales) of the UK this week? > > Wednesday or Thursday, venue TBA but many places now open. Early mist/fog could be an issue in some areas (Severn Valley for example) by then. > > > Duncan McF. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Email Security Gateway" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Spam Quarantine Summary - (1)
Date: Sep 08, 2020
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From: Max Earnshaw <maxearnshaw(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2020
Subject: Re: MGL EFIS and autopilot
Thanks for the reply I will check out MGL forums. I was proposing to use MGL servos so maybe should work ok. My plane flies very true so hopefully that will be ok too. Cheers Max On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 1:46 AM AirEupora wrote: > > I had the MGL Vogager EFIS and used the Trio Servos. I could not get > them to work correctly. MGL Torrance sold them to me, but they told me > that Trio was the problem and Trio told me that the problem was with MGL. > > Before you buy an autopilot system for the Europa you need to determine if > your plane flies straight & level. How much force is needed to bring the > nose up or down once it leaves altitude. For whatever reason by plane took > more force to bring it back to level than the Trio servo could deliver and > would trip and shut down after a few minutes of trying. If you go back > into this Forum you find a lot of question on how to get them set up. The > roll axles worked and it was easy to install in the co-pilot seat area. > The big problem is the pitch servo and how it connects to the pitch torque > tube. I had to manufacture a clamp with a horn on it. Europa now makes a > pitch tube with the horn welded to it. > > I know that the MGL servos worked very well with the later models of the > MGL EFIS . You might check out their forum. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498158#498158 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airbox for 912S
From: Richard Holder <richard.holder(at)outlook.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2020
On 05/09/2020 16:01, Steven Pitt wrote > > > Now I have a dilemma. I have measured the diameter of > the inner carburettor at 45mm. The airbox outer tube is > 48/49mm - the inner diameter 39 and 42mm (these > measurements after my fix - several layers of bid to > strengthen the orifices after they collapsed under the > tightness of the worm driven band). > > I have never had a problem with the carburettors and > never given any thought to a mismatch between the two > diameters. I was always aware the the box was poorly > finished and the air intakes were easy to crush, but > with the bolt holding the box to the engine frame it > had never departed giving me an inflight issue. > > It is also notable that the two orifices were not the > same size even before the collapse. > > The only way I can see to equalise the two is to > rebuild the airbox as per Dave Ps suggestion - cut the > ends off - find an aluminium tube with inside diameter > of 45mm and bond that in with bid. Anyone got any tube > to that size? > > Anyone else wishing to add any advice before I carve > the boxes up. Also what is the airbox made from? It > looks like chopped strand mat fibreglass. Steven, just seen this. When my airbox tubes compressed I used short lengths of steel exhaust pipe with the correct OD (to match the carb inlet OD). I dremelled away enough of the original fibreglass to get the exhaust tube (ET) to fit nicely using the carbs as the locational template. I drilled a few holes in the ET to allow keying. I then resined (with a filler) in the ETs without worrying about the actual orifice size. When the resin had gone off I dremelled out all the surplus resin on the inside leaving it reasonably smooth. Much stronger than the original, and as the air passage is now much larger than it was the engine runs less rich ! And I can do the Jubillee clips up tight. I bought short lengths of silicone hose with ID to match the carb inlet. Not patented ! Richard ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: UK DOTH 2
From: "clivesutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2020
Anyone up for a DOTH trip meeting tomorrow Monday 14th Sept to North Coates (Lincolnshire coast) , arriving midday-ish TBC? Haven't been there before, but looks like a gem: 760 x 20m grass, small museum, 5 to land. EGD307 nearby but local arrangements in place. See http://www.northcoatesflyingclub.co.uk/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498331#498331 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear wing root socket problems
From: =?UTF-8?Q?Erik_Dahlb=c3=a4ck?= <erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2020
Thank you Bud, Duncan and others for your input. David Stanbridge reached out to me in response to my post here and I've E-mailed them the pictures as well. Their recommendation was to remove the rust and oil it to prevent further corrosion. Now, my local mechanic and I decided to have me paint the W26A using "hammer paint" after sanding. Here's to hoping that the parts will still fit. It shouldn't rust anymore anyway... The way I recall it, the W26B was correctly oriented when we found the totally broken one. However, it had almost fallen off so I can't be sure. The port side one however, which I later discovered to be cracked as well, was correctly oriented. That is if I remember correctly. I might again here just be assuming it was installed correctly due to having read the builder's manual afterwards. And yes, I am a member of the Europa Club and will sure check out the 914-tips, thank you all. / Erik On 2020-09-07 17:10, D McFadyean wrote: > > The (substantial) wear marks on W26A show that is was installed the > correct way around. > > The wear mark on the inside vertical surface of W26 just above the > central bolt indicate that at some point W26A was leaning heavily on > W26 in a 'negative g' direction of loading, which may explain how it > then broke i.e. the weight of the wing transmitted in bending through > the lift pin caused W26A to lever against W26. > > That wouldn't occur during a normal flight maneuver and when properly > rigged. Perhaps the downward leverage occurred during derigging after > removing the spar pins, and assuming the spar cups were misplaced. > > I'd check the lift pins for bending too and that these are not angled > (or bent) above the centreline of the inboard spar projections (and/or > that W26 has been set vertically). > > > Duncan Mcf. > >> On 07 September 2020 at 14:31 Bud Yerly wrote: >> >> Sorry to hear of your issues. >> >> The failure of the socket indicates the crash may have been more >> severe than anticipated. >> >> In all my years, Ive seen corrosion on older socket parts that were >> not as well protected as the new bits are. I have never seen a >> failure in the 26A as this was a well engineered and tested part by >> Europa. If installed backwards, this can happen. >> >> Please contact Europa Aircraft because the W26 part assembly has not >> been an issue and replacement of the corroded items may be smart. >> This area is a critical flight component and the annual inspection >> and repair may have missed this part may have been damaged or >> assembled incorrectly. If the socket inner W26B failed, was the >> interior tube and attachments properly installed, checked and >> inspected is the question. >> >> Loctite is between the barrel and that thin rectangular piece you >> call it so they operate as a unit. The wing pin goes into the fully >> assembled socket and allows it to move up and down just a bit. If >> not Loctited the barrel can rotate and make pin insertion more >> difficult. (Frankly, during wing install, simply note the >> orientation of the barrel is all that is needed.) Note that the >> assembly thin side goes on the fuselage side. Dont get that >> backwards as it builds up stress and may be a part of the failure you >> see. >> >> As far as the structural strength, the yoke piece 26A and the barrel >> 26C carry the load of the wing pulling forward under max G load. >> This barrel is designed to move up and down. >> >> As for the Rotax 914: >> >> There is a long and boring troubleshooting guide on my website on >> keeping the 914 running true. The carbs are easily rebuilt with >> proper attention to detail. I find the Rotax engine forum >> informational, but doesnt cover in enough detail. I do find the >> videos provided by Rotax to be quite complete. The paper I did >> covers various phases and expands troubleshooting. See the >> techniques section for an updated version since published in the >> Europa Club magazine. >> >> Bud Yerly >> >> www.customflightcreations.com >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> *From: *Erik Dahlbck <mailto:erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com> >> *Sent: *Sunday, September 6, 2020 5:18 PM >> *To: *europa-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject: *Europa-List: Rear wing root socket problems >> >> Hello, >> >> First time posting here, hoping my attached photos are small enough, >> etc... >> >> I'm trying to get Europa SE-XRX airworthy again after being grounded for >> two years. At first due to some hard-to-diagnose carburettor problems. >> 914 float bowls, enough said... If interested, I have a post about it >> over at Rotax-Owners: >> https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rotax-owner.com%2Fen%2F912-914-technical-questions%2F6881-914ul-carburettor-gremlins%3Fstart%3D15&data=02%7C01%7C%7C8482b0ef213641821e7208d852aa5b72%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637350238926500351&sdata=pMvGV5%2BI41Zjnn3nQnSV8Wo37dGxDwnn9%2Ff%2Bu5P7T%2F0%3D&reserved=0 >> >> >> PROBLEM NO 1 >> >> Anyway, after fixing the engine and while doing the annual together with >> the previous owner/builder, it was discovered that the rear wing socket >> housing, part W26B, starboard side, was cracked in two parts. Further >> inspection showed that also the port side was cracked, albeit not having >> split in two just yet. Please see attached photos. >> >> I've got the spares from the manufacturer however, I'm curious if this >> is a known problem? Any thoughts on what could be the cause? Anything >> further to look out for? >> >> My local mechanic seemed just as puzzled as I was when looking at how >> thin this part is. I mean what is it, 2 mm? >> >> One thing to consider: The aircraft was built as a monowheel but crashed >> on takeoff during flight testing, making a hard landing and a ground >> loop. The incident was traced to a construction error in the control >> line attachment to the rudder, causing alterations in the design (some >> of might be familiar with this). The aircraft was then repaired (by some >> sailplane workshop that seemed to know what they were doing, I've seen >> the photos at least). Among other things it got a new tail, a CS prop >> and was rebuilt as a trigear. Might this new discovery simply be residue >> of that old incident? >> >> Also, the builder's manual states that the W26B and C parts should be >> loctited together. However, there was no trace of this. I'm not sure if >> that instruction has been there since the beginning or if it could be a >> later revision? However, I sort of have my doubts as to some loctite >> being able to strenghten this construction enough to not break from >> whatever broke this...? >> >> Finally, any thoughts on how to reassemble these parts? Where does the >> Loctite go? Just on the barrel and make sure the holes align before i >> dries? How to you avoid getting loctite on the surfaces between the >> barrel and the socket body (W26A)? >> >> >> PROBLEM NO 2 >> >> Due to various reasons, I only got around to cleaning the grease off the >> rear socket assemblies, in preparation for reassembly, but doing the >> loctite-work in a cold hangar, etc, and also enlisting the help of the >> very busy local mechanic, was more than I could get done before last >> winter. >> >> Now, on inspection, the W26A socket bodies show signs of corrosion. >> Please see the other attached photos. Anyone have an opinion on just how >> bad this is? Do they also need changing? And does that require >> composite-work? I've been looking through the builder's manual but I'm >> afraid I'm not quite up to understanding all of it. >> >> >> Any thoughts on both of the above issues would be greatly appreciated! >> >> >> Sincerely, >> >> Erik Gunneland Dahlbck >> Linkping, Sweden >> Europa SE-XRX >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: UK Doth 3?
From: "clivesutton" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Sep 14, 2020
Weather tomorrow Tues 15th Sept is not quite as good as today, but would someone like to suggest a DOTH location for a UK meet-up? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498352#498352 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Torques to use on brake components bolts
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 14, 2020
Dear forum members, Does anyone know of what torques to use on the brake components at the wheel. At least in the Cleveland units used in the certified world the torque of the two bolts that hold the brake pad back plate is very important. For now I just made it nice'n tight. Chris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498355#498355 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK Doth 3?
From: "Hitchflight" <bobhitchcock(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 14, 2020
Hi Clive Id propose the military UAV experimental base at Aberporth. This airport often defaults to describing themselves as closed for various reasons , but the natives have been welcoming on previous visits. Suggest I could give them a PPR call in the morning, then we confirm. Have yet to see the large new model RAF UAVs land, so that would interest me greatly. Its also possible to walk down the steep hill to the sea from this base. However if Aberporth say no this time, then Haverfordwest or Rosemarket for Skokholm and Skomer Islands. Thoughts? Regards Bob NB In a few days the seals start to return to the beaches at North Coates. So its a great destination for spotting wildlife. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498359#498359 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Torques to use on brake components bolts
Date: Sep 14, 2020
Page 370 in the combined builders manual is your friend and list the torques youre need. Alan G-OBJT Sent from my iPad > On 14 Sep 2020, at 17:49, n7188u wrote: > > > Dear forum members, > > Does anyone know of what torques to use on the brake components at the wheel. At least in the Cleveland units used in the certified world the torque of the two bolts that hold the brake pad back plate is very important. > > For now I just made it nice'n tight. > > Chris > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498355#498355 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: UK Doth 3?
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Sep 15, 2020
Tues DOTH not possible for me, Wed is better. FLYER mag has free landing for North Coates and Cambridge. -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498369#498369 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: UK Doth 3?
Date: Sep 15, 2020
I have unfortunately been unaware of the recent Doth meetings due to Matronics mail ending up in my Mac junk folder. Efforts to improve email filtering have been unsuccessful & I wonder if anyone out there has a workable solution please. Regards, Roger > On 15 Sep 2020, at 09:36, John Wighton wrote: > > > Tues DOTH not possible for me, Wed is better. > FLYER mag has free landing for North Coates and Cambridge. > > -------- > John Wighton > Europa XS trigear G-IPOD > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498369#498369 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)hotmail.co.uk>
Subject: Soft start
Date: Sep 16, 2020
I have just fitted two new soft start modules to my Rotax 912ULS. Should they both be activated by the start switch and start on both modules. or select only one module to start then activate the second by going to both. I have only wired up one module at the moment but have installed wire to be used from the second module if it is ok to do so.? Any experts out there? G-LDVO Dave Park ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Soft start
From: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Sep 16, 2020
There will definitely be others with more in-depth knowledge than me to give you a solid engineering answer, but my experience leads me to suggest that if both your ignition systems are the same, then why not use them simultaneously to get your engine started? If only one soft start module was fitted, then it would probably be wise to start using only that one to reduce the likelihood of the "kickbacks" such as ruined my first starter sprag clutch. That was when I had two earlier design ignition modules, but now that I have the current design of modules both incorporating a few seconds of ignition timing retardation, I start using both modules without hassles. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498390#498390 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 914 generator disconnected and running fuel pump #1
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2020
Hi Group I have a curiosity question. If a 914 is wired as per Europa's schematic, if the battery is taken off line Fuel Pump #1 will run off the generator. Question: Is there an RPM where the generator will not supply enough power to keep Fuel Pump #1 running? In other words if on final with pump #1 running only on generator and you pull power will the engine quit? Thx. Ron P. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498391#498391 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torques to use on brake components bolts
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Sep 17, 2020
80-90 in Lbs. or 9.5 N.m for the two bolts that hold the brake pad back plate Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498393#498393 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: =?UTF-8?Q?Erik_Dahlb=c3=a4ck?= <erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com>
Subject: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Hello again, One hopefully simple question: How do you best hoist (or jack) a Europa Trigear for landing gear maintenance? At some point on the fuselage? On big cushioned plates under the wings, centered under the main spar? Also, is it safe to lift the nose wheel by pushing down the rear part of the fuselage, perhaps using a wide collar placed just ahead of the thinnest point, strapped to a weight or attaching point on the floor? Sincerely, Erik Gunneland Dahlbck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Heindl <kheindl(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear
Date: Sep 18, 2020
HI Erik, Use an aluminium or steel rod, can't remember the diameter, and push into t he leg, first remove the cotter pin. Length should be at least 50cm. then j ack it up with your hydraulic jack. You can now remove the wheel up to the jack. Now place a block of wood under the leg end and lower the jack and remove i t, and the wheel. For the nose gear I had an eye bolt mounted in the garage floor. Then used a ratcheting strap just ahead of the fin, looped through the eye bolt, and lowered the tail that wa y. Or get someone to push down the tail. Karl ________________________________ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr onics.com> on behalf of Erik Dahlb=E4ck Sent: 18 September 2020 09:14 Subject: Europa-List: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com> Hello again, One hopefully simple question: How do you best hoist (or jack) a Europa Trigear for landing gear maintenance? At some point on the fuselage? On big cushioned plates under the wings, centered under the main spar? Also, is it safe to lift the nose wheel by pushing down the rear part of the fuselage, perhaps using a wide collar placed just ahead of the thinnest point, strapped to a weight or attaching point on the floor? Sincerely, Erik Gunneland Dahlb=E4ck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete Zut <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Subject: Re: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear
an option to get everything off the ground (if ever needed) is to hoist the plane from the top two engine mounts (on the fuse frame side of the rubbers) using straps, and support the tail. Cheers, Pete On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 4:24 AM Erik Dahlb=C3=A4ck wrote: < > erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com> > > Hello again, > > One hopefully simple question: How do you best hoist (or jack) a Europa > Trigear for landing gear maintenance? > > At some point on the fuselage? On big cushioned plates under the wings, > centered under the main spar? > > Also, is it safe to lift the nose wheel by pushing down the rear part of > the fuselage, perhaps using a wide collar placed just ahead of the > thinnest point, strapped to a weight or attaching point on the floor? > > > Sincerely, > > Erik Gunneland Dahlb=C3=A4ck > =========== =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torques to use on brake components bolts
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Thanks Alan and Remi, 80-90 in*lbs is in line with what I use in the Clevelands (75-80, at one point they changed it a little). Alan, what do you mean by page 370 of the combined builders manual. My big paper manual is divided in sections so a little hard to find page 370. I looked around the manual (its been a while I looked at it in its entirety) and can't find a list of torques. Best Regards, Chris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498410#498410 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torques to use on brake components bolts
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Oh, just wanted to post a picture of my Europa doing taxi test last weekend. Very exciting moment to be able to finally put all the parts together, see it as complete airplane and take it around the neighborhood for a spin. As you can see a lot of things are still being held by Clecoes. Still lots to do to complete (pretty much all control surfaces and wings need filling and lots of little things here and there but it is a complete machine right now. Special thanks go out to the this group, the Europa Club and in particular Bud Yerly for all the help and support during this arduous process. I'll post something when the airplane finally flies which I expect around the beginning of next year. Now all I need to do is find a way to put the wings on that doesn't take an hours (how in the world Europa claimed the setup would take less than 5 minutes dunno) Maybe with practice :D Chris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498411#498411 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/chm_europa_taxi_338.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Torques to use on brake components bolts
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Chris I have a pdf copy of the builders manual, Combined Builders Manual, I downloaded from the Europa Website. It contains all the build info for mono and tri-gear builds. I found the torque settings in there, page 370. Or section CBM 29T. You need to register with Europa Site to access. Alan Sent from my iPhone > On 18 Sep 2020, at 15:30, n7188u wrote: > > > Thanks Alan and Remi, > > 80-90 in*lbs is in line with what I use in the Clevelands (75-80, at one point they changed it a little). > > Alan, what do you mean by page 370 of the combined builders manual. My big paper manual is divided in sections so a little hard to find page 370. I looked around the manual (its been a while I looked at it in its entirety) and can't find a list of torques. > > Best Regards, > Chris > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498410#498410 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel
From: "Mallard" <james(at)kingdom.ie>
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Has anyone ever created an extra long lever or an additional attachment to make the Undercarriage Lever easier to operate? I have arthritis in the knuckle joints of the first 2 fingers of my right hand and found it quite difficult to push the lever forward to put down the Mono Wheel & Flaps. I was thinking of a longer lever which would give more leverage? Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice. James -------- Seat of my pants Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498413#498413 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torques to use on brake components bolts
From: "n7188u" <chmgarb(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2020
OK got it Alan. The tri gear manual does seem to have a little more info on torques for some of the landing gear components. Not so much for the mono but Remi provided a torque and I'll go with that. Thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498414#498414 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Roger Sheridan <rogersheridan(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Hi James, Not quite what you were asking for but I get a better & more comfortable hold on both brake & gear levers with bike handlebar grips. Regards, Roger > On 18 Sep 2020, at 16:07, Mallard wrote: > > > Has anyone ever created an extra long lever or an additional attachment to make the Undercarriage Lever easier to operate? > > > I have arthritis in the knuckle joints of the first 2 fingers of my right hand and found it quite difficult to push the lever forward to put down the Mono Wheel & Flaps. > I was thinking of a longer lever which would give more leverage? > > Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice. > James > > -------- > Seat of my pants > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498413#498413 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Any use to anybody
From: "Patrick Tunney" <p1tun(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Sep 18, 2020
Some instruments free to anybody that may want them, just cover the postage costs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498419#498419 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2090_422.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2089_781.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2088_190.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2087_474.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2086_757.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <roddyeuropa(at)aol.com>
Subject: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel
Date: Sep 21, 2020
My thoughts on this: Any extra long lever would need to be dog legged as the top of the existing lever fits into the recess in the panel. Also the force needed is very depended on getting the bungee tension correct. If this is high enough then the force needed to retract or engage the undercarriage will be minimal. Roddy Kesteton G-IKRK -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of Mallard Sent: 18 September 2020 16:07 Subject: Europa-List: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel Has anyone ever created an extra long lever or an additional attachment to make the Undercarriage Lever easier to operate? I have arthritis in the knuckle joints of the first 2 fingers of my right hand and found it quite difficult to push the lever forward to put down the Mono Wheel & Flaps. I was thinking of a longer lever which would give more leverage? Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice. James -------- Seat of my pants Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498413#498413 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <m.j.gregory(at)talk21.com>
Subject: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel
Date: Sep 21, 2020
James, Ted Gladstone and Justin Kennedy have done several mods to their Monowheel Z-TED, including the following reported on the Matronics list as follows: Date: Sep 02, 2001 From: Edward Gladstone <Ted_Gladstone(at)compuserve.com> Subject: tric Flaps on Monowheel >Shaun Simpkins wrote:- > >Has anyone out there tried decoupling the flaps and gear on a monowheel< We are the Edinburgh group who have fitted an electric screwjack actuator to operate the flaps on our monowheel Europa. Rowland is correct in that the actuator was originally designed to operate the elevation mechanism on a lounge chair or bed for the elderly. It weighs about the same as the long cranked linking tube and its associated couplings. We also developed a manual emergency method lowering the flaps, should the electric motor fail, but Francis Donaldson (PFA Chief Engineer) did no share our enthusiasm for it and we locked out this device. Along with many other mods we have also changed the lever that operates the undercarriage such that it rotates from a horizontal position on the tunnel through 180 deg to end up again in the horizontal position on the tunnel. It allows us to fill up the cavity in the instrument panel and it can now be operated with a single finger! The electric flap motor also operates the outriggers in the normal manner (for the time being) but we have the intention to also operate the outriggers with small electric screw jack actuators. When this is done we will be able to operate the flaps to any angle but, with the existing setup, we can go down to 30 deg and op to 23 deg without unlatching the outriggers. At the moment we have decided to abandon any further mods and concentrate on getting it flying ( it's kit No 15!!!). When its flying we can amuse ourselves with our further mods and go faster fairings. Ted & Justin G-ZTED While this may be too radical a solution for you, the principle involved in making the undercarriage lever rotate through 180=B0 has clearly resulted in a very light operating force. I have always found Ted and Justin very willing to share their Europa experiences and am sure they would be happy to discuss ideas on the subject. Best regards, Mike Dr Mike Gregory Kit 94 01480 451655 07885 355765 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of Mallard Sent: 18 September 2020 16:07 Subject: Europa-List: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel james(at)kingdom.ie> Has anyone ever created an extra long lever or an additional attachment to make the Undercarriage Lever easier to operate? I have arthritis in the knuckle joints of the first 2 fingers of my right hand and found it quite difficult to push the lever forward to put down the Mono Wheel & Flaps. I was thinking of a longer lever which would give more leverage? Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice. James -------- Seat of my pants Read this topic online here: <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498413#498413> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498413#498413 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear
From: =?UTF-8?Q?Erik_Dahlb=c3=a4ck?= <erik(at)erikdahlbeck.com>
Date: Sep 21, 2020
Thanks, Am I correct in assuming that the aforementioned metal rod (would a sturdy tube do?) goes in where the attachment for the wheel pants goes in? Or does that one somehow fit into something else that is mounted within the wheel axis? (please see attached photo) Any other options BTW? What if you needed to work on the landing gear strut for an example, and didn't want the fuselage to be standing on it? I saw that suggestion about suspending the fuselage from the engine mounts and the tail. My local mechanic who's helping me with all this wasn't very fond at all of that idea. / Erik On 2020-09-18 12:46, Karl Heindl wrote: > HI Erik, > Use an aluminium or steel rod, can't remember the diameter, and push > into the leg, first remove the cotter pin. Length should be at least > 50cm. then jack it up with your hydraulic jack. You can now remove the > wheel up to the jack. > Now place a block of wood under the leg end and lower the jack and > remove it, and the wheel. > For the nose gear I had an eye bolt mounted in the garage floor. Then > used a ratcheting strap just > ahead of the fin, looped through the eye bolt, and lowered the tail > that way. Or get someone to push down the tail. > Karl > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com > on behalf of Erik Dahlbck > > *Sent:* 18 September 2020 09:14 > *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Europa-List: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear > > > Hello again, > > One hopefully simple question: How do you best hoist (or jack) a Europa > Trigear for landing gear maintenance? > > At some point on the fuselage? On big cushioned plates under the wings, > centered under the main spar? > > Also, is it safe to lift the nose wheel by pushing down the rear part of > the fuselage, perhaps using a wide collar placed just ahead of the > thinnest point, strapped to a weight or attaching point on the floor? > > > Sincerely, > > Erik Gunneland Dahlbck > > ========== > st Email Forum - > pa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > ========== > p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > ums.matronics.com > ========== > p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - > matronics.com > ========== > p; - List Contribution Web Site - > p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david park <dpark748(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear
Date: Sep 21, 2020
To raise the nose wheel I use at least two 30 liter cans of fuel/water to we igh down the tail with a padded strop over the fuselage in front of the fin. To service main wheels I use the method described using a piece of steel tub e pushed in to the axle, a jack and a piece of 1 inch ply to support the leg . Dave Park G-LDVO > On 21 Sep 2020, at 22:17, Erik Dahlb=C3=A4ck wrote : > > =EF=BB > Thanks, > > Am I correct in assuming that the aforementioned metal rod (would a sturdy tube do?) goes in where the attachment for the wheel pants goes in? Or does that one somehow fit into something else that is mounted within the wheel a xis? (please see attached photo) > > Any other options BTW? What if you needed to work on the landing gear stru t for an example, and didn't want the fuselage to be standing on it? > > I saw that suggestion about suspending the fuselage from the engine mounts and the tail. My local mechanic who's helping me with all this wasn't very f ond at all of that idea. > > / Erik > >> On 2020-09-18 12:46, Karl Heindl wrote: >> HI Erik, >> Use an aluminium or steel rod, can't remember the diameter, and push into the leg, first remove the cotter pin. Length should be at least 50cm. then j ack it up with your hydraulic jack. You can now remove the wheel up to the j ack. >> Now place a block of wood under the leg end and lower the jack and remove it, and the wheel. >> For the nose gear I had an eye bolt mounted in the garage floor. Then us ed a ratcheting strap just >> ahead of the fin, looped through the eye bolt, and lowered the tail that w ay. Or get someone to push down the tail. >> Karl >> >> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@ma tronics.com> on behalf of Erik Dahlb=C3=A4ck >> Sent: 18 September 2020 09:14 >> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Europa-List: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear >> >> >> Hello again, >> >> One hopefully simple question: How do you best hoist (or jack) a Europa >> Trigear for landing gear maintenance? >> >> At some point on the fuselage? On big cushioned plates under the wings, >> centered under the main spar? >> >> Also, is it safe to lift the nose wheel by pushing down the rear part of >> the fuselage, perhaps using a wide collar placed just ahead of the >> thinnest point, strapped to a weight or attaching point on the floor? >> >> >> Sincerely, >> >> Erik Gunneland Dahlb=C3=A4ck >> >> ========== >> st Email Forum - >> pa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> ========== >> p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >> ums.matronics.com >> ========== >> p; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >> matronics.com >> ========== >> p; - List Contribution Web Site - >> p; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Sep 22, 2020
To supplement the taildragger modification we have developed (apologies to those who await more information on this topic), we developed a clamp on jacking stand. The problem with using the axle hole is that you cannot get the wheel and brakes completely off the aircraft. We have a design that clamps on, using the slight taper (of the original Europa legs or the Acroflight ones) to ensure it doesn't slide. Picture attached. It can be used with a trolley jack or small bottle jack. -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498492#498492 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/europa_main_gear_clamp_001_262.png ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Heindl <kheindl(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear
Date: Sep 22, 2020
Hi JOhn, A very neat design, but wouldn't work with leg fairings in place and requir es a certain amount of expertise and time to manufacture. The axle hole sol ution is very simple and cheap, and gets the wheel off completely in a matt er of minutes. Either way, it is useful to have a means of changing a wheel when touring. Karl ________________________________ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr onics.com> on behalf of John Wighton Sent: 22 September 2020 10:30 Subject: Europa-List: Re: How to properly hoist a Europa Trigear To supplement the taildragger modification we have developed (apologies to those who await more information on this topic), we developed a clamp on ja cking stand. The problem with using the axle hole is that you cannot get t he wheel and brakes completely off the aircraft. We have a design that clamps on, using the slight taper (of the original Eu ropa legs or the Acroflight ones) to ensure it doesn't slide. Picture attached. It can be used with a trolley jack or small bottle jack. -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=498492#498492 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/europa_main_gear_clamp_001_262.png ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Justin Kennedy <justin(at)systemwise.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Undercarriage
Date: Sep 22, 2020
Hi Roddy, While our complicated retraction mechanism has stood the test of time the b ungie has reduced in its efficiency over time and while still easy to opera te it can be heavy when there is any additional G force. I now leave the U/ C retraction until further up the climb. Then a deft forward move on the st ick will produce a slightly reduced G and the U/C comes up really easily. I t takes a few goes to get this trick off without lurching forward but done right it makes light work of the retraction and is hardly noticeable to the spectator. I can=92t see why this would not work on the conventional arran gement. If one tightened the bungie so the lowering would require more forc e than the retraction then the skill would be to add a little G when loweri ng the U/C. Next time I have the firewall plates off I will tighten the bun gie like this though getting it exactly right may prove difficult. This mak e sense because as I approach the overhead I am climbing slightly to bleed off the speed. A timely lowering of the U/C as the speed reached U/C operat ing speed would use the additional G to assist the lowering. Yet another skill to set us mono pilots apart. Just my halfpenny=92s worth. Cheers Justin G-ZTED Mono Classic, 912S, Airmaster Prop, Warp drive blades. Kit No:15 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Subject: RE: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel
Date: Sep 22, 2020
Hello James, If I understand your email correctly the issue you are having is with moving the lever out of the up gate in order to lower the gear. That being the case I offer the following suggestions, neither being a mod, however. First, try tightening the bungee. This greatly reduces the force necessary to not only raise the undercarriage, but also the forward force required to move the lever out of the up gate. Secondly, I have found that if I unload the wing by pushing the control stick forward, the undercarriage lever will float forward off of the up gate allowing easy extension of the gear. Typically, I perform this maneuver by first, pulling the power back and then raising the nose to maintain altitude, as speed drops below the flap extension speed push the nose over and at the same time lower the gear as you feel the lever move forward off of the up gate. Works a treat. Regards, Erich N28ET Classic Mono 914 ____________________________________________________________ Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more Romney's Decision All but Seals the Deal for Court Pick http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f6a14d68a0eb14d534fcst02duc1 Graham's Flip-Flop May Help Save His Seat http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f6a14d6aedaf14d534fcst02duc2 Utah Cop on Bodycam: 'It's Going to End in a Shooting' http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f6a14d6d52c914d534fcst02duc3 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Undercarriage & Flap Lever on the XS Mono Wheel
Date: Sep 22, 2020
I concur on all points! :) -pete > On Sep 22, 2020, at 11:29 AM, Erich Trombley wrote: > > > Hello James, > > If I understand your email correctly the issue you are having is with moving the lever out of the up gate in order to lower the gear. That being the case I offer the following suggestions, neither being a mod, however. > > First, try tightening the bungee. This greatly reduces the force necessary to not only raise the undercarriage, but also the forward force required to move the lever out of the up gate. > > Secondly, I have found that if I unload the wing by pushing the control stick forward, the undercarriage lever will float forward off of the up gate allowing easy extension of the gear. Typically, I perform this maneuver by first, pulling the power back and then raising the nose to maintain altitude, as speed drops below the flap extension speed push the nose over and at the same time lower the gear as you feel the lever move forward off of the up gate. Works a treat. > > Regards, > Erich > N28ET > Classic Mono 914 > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more > > Romney's Decision All but Seals the Deal for Court Pick > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f6a14d68a0eb14d534fcst02duc1 > Graham's Flip-Flop May Help Save His Seat > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5f6a14d6aedaf14d534fcst02duc2 > Utah Cop on Bodycam: 'It's Going to End in a Shooting'

Europa-Archive.digest.vol-oc

Europa-Archive.digest.vol-oc