JabiruEngine-Archive.digest.vol-aa

September 12, 2004 - January 09, 2007



      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2004
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: First List Message...
This is the first message to the new JabiruEngine-List(at)matronics.com Matt Dralle List Admin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2004
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Name Modification...
Dear JabiruEngine Listers, I noticed today that the name of this List was one character too long and messages would go though correctly. I've hereby changed the name from "JabiruEngines-List" to "JabiruEngine-List", removing the "s". This seems to have made everything work correctly. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Greetings and introductions
Date: Nov 04, 2004
From: "John Loram" <johnl(at)loram.org>
I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. -john- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Greetings and introductions
Date: Nov 04, 2004
Hi John This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My intention is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feature). We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then encourage more people to use it. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 2003 Mainsail Drive Naples, FL 34114 Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Loram Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. -john- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Greetings and introductions
Date: Nov 04, 2004
Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania do no archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Silvester Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions Hi John This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My intention is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feature). We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then encourage more people to use it. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 2003 Mainsail Drive Naples, FL 34114 Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Loram Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. -john- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bnoon12(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Greetings and introductions
Date: Nov 04, 2004
Hi All, I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the summer I got my Jabiru 3300 to put on a Thorp T-211. At this point, I have received a "temporary" mount based on a mount that is testing on a Thorp T-211 in Scottsdale and am waiting (impatiently) for the new cowling assembly from Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am in the process of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but like most out there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and timidity (on top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of time. At this point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses and where to put things has me buffaloed. I know once I get started things will fall into pl ace. So... My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists note one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. Also, what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more power to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes sense. I am thinking about two smaller batteries instead of one larger one. The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how things are put together. Guess that's enough for how, thanks, Bruce Noon (520) 991-5844 Tucson, AZ -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- > > Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. > > Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania > > do no archive > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Andy Silvester > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > > > Hi John > > This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My intention > is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising > and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feature). > We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then > encourage more people to use it. > > Andy Silvester > > Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. > 2003 Mainsail Drive > Naples, FL 34114 > Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 > www.suncoastjabiru.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John > Loram > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > > I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. > I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. > -john- > > > > > > Hi All, I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the summer I got my Jabiru 3300to put ona Thorp T-211. At this point, I have received a "temporary" mountbasedona mount that is testing on a Thorp T-211 inScottsdaleand am waiting (impatiently) forthe newcowling assembly from Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am in the process of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but like most out there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and timidity (on top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of time. At this point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses and where to put things has me buffaloed. I know once I get started things will fall into place. So... My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists note one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. Also, what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more power to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes sense. I am thinking about two smaller batteriesinstead of one larger one. The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how things are put together. Guess that's enough for how, thanks, Bruce Noon (520) 991-5844 Tucson, AZ -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania do no archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Silvester To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Andy Silvester" Hi John This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My intention is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feat ure). We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then encourage more people to use it. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 2003 Mainsail Drive Naples, FL 34114 Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Loram To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "John Loram" I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. -john- ======================================= cs Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Fulp" <jrfulp(at)ncia.net>
Subject: Re: Greetings and introductions
Date: Nov 04, 2004
Bruce, Go to www.aeroelectric.com and you will have all the info you'll need. Also, aeroelectric has a list on this server. John ----- Original Message ----- From: <bnoon12(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions Hi All, I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the summer I got my Jabiru 3300 to put on a Thorp T-211. At this point, I have received a "temporary" mount based on a mount that is testing on a Thorp T-211 in Scottsdale and am waiting (impatiently) for the new cowling assembly from Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am in the process of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but like most out there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and timidity (on top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of time. At this point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses and where to put things has me buffaloed. I know once I get started things will fall into pl ace. So... My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists note one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. Also, what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more power to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes sense. I am thinking about two smaller batteries instead of one larger one. The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how things are put together. Guess that's enough for how, thanks, Bruce Noon (520) 991-5844 Tucson, AZ -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- > > Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. > > Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania > > do no archive > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Andy Silvester > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > > Hi John > > This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My > intention > is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising > and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feature). > We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then > encourage more people to use it. > > Andy Silvester > > Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. > 2003 Mainsail Drive > Naples, FL 34114 > Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 > www.suncoastjabiru.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John > Loram > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > > I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. > I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. > -john- > > Hi All, I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the summer I got my Jabiru 3300to put ona Thorp T-211. At this point, I have received a "temporary" mountbasedona mount that is testing on a Thorp T-211 inScottsdaleand am waiting (impatiently) forthe newcowling assembly from Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am in the process of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but like most out there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and timidity (on top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of time. At this point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses and where to put things has me buffaloed. I know once I get started things will fall into place. So... My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists note one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. Also, what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more power to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes sense. I am thinking about two smaller batteriesinstead of one larger one. The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how things are put together. Guess that's enough for how, thanks, Bruce Noon (520) 991-5844 Tucson, AZ -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania do no archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Silvester To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Andy Silvester" Hi John This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My intention is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feat ure). We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then encourage more people to use it. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 2003 Mainsail Drive Naples, FL 34114 Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Loram To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "John Loram" I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. -john- ======================================= cs Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bnoon12(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Greetings and introductions
Date: Nov 04, 2004
Thanks, I will subscribe now.... -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- > > Bruce, > > Go to www.aeroelectric.com and you will have all the info you'll need. Also, > aeroelectric has a list > on this server. > > John > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: ; > Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > > > Hi All, > I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the > summer I got my Jabiru 3300 to put on a Thorp T-211. At this point, I have > received a "temporary" mount based on a mount that is testing on a Thorp > T-211 in Scottsdale and am waiting (impatiently) for the new cowling > assembly from Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am > in the process of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but > like most out there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and > timidity (on top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of > time. At this point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and > recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. > Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer > equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses > and where to put things has me buffaloed. I know once I get started things > will fall into pl > ace. So... > My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists > note one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. > Also, what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more > power to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes > sense. I am thinking about two smaller batteries instead of one larger one. > The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool > for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would > you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how > things are put together. > Guess that's enough for how, > > thanks, > > Bruce Noon > (520) 991-5844 > Tucson, AZ > -- > (520) 760-5925 > Tucson,AZ 85750 > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > > > > Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. > > > > Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania > > > > do no archive > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Andy Silvester > > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > > > > > > > Hi John > > > > This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My > > intention > > is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising > > and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feature). > > We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then > > encourage more people to use it. > > > > Andy Silvester > > > > Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. > > 2003 Mainsail Drive > > Naples, FL 34114 > > Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 > > www.suncoastjabiru.com > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John > > Loram > > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > > > > > I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. > > I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. > > -john- > > > > > > Hi All, > I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the > summer I got my Jabiru 3300to put ona Thorp T-211. At this point, I have > received a "temporary" mountbasedona mount that is testing on a Thorp T-211 > inScottsdaleand am waiting (impatiently) forthe newcowling assembly from > Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am in the process > of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but like most out > there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and timidity (on > top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of time. At this > point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and > recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. > Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer > equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses > and where to > put things has me buffaloed. I know once I get started things will fall > into place. So... > My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists note > one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. Also, > what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more power > to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes sense. > I am thinking about two smaller batteriesinstead of one larger one. > The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool > for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would > you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how > things are put together. > Guess that's enough for how, > > thanks, > > Bruce Noon > (520) 991-5844 > Tucson, AZ > -- > (520) 760-5925 > Tucson,AZ 85750 > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" > > Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. > > Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania > > do no archive > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Andy Silvester > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Andy Silvester" > > > Hi John > > This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My > intention > is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising > and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feat > ure). > We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then > encourage more people to use it. > > Andy Silvester > > Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. > 2003 Mainsail Drive > Naples, FL 34114 > Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 > www.suncoastjabiru.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John > Loram > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions > > -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "John Loram" > > I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. > I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. > -john- > > > ======================================= > cs Forums. > > > > > > Thanks, I will subscribe now.... -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "John Fulp" Bruce, Go to www.aeroelectric.com and you will have all the info you'll need. Also, aeroelectric has a list on this server. John ----- Original Message ----- From: <BNOON12(at)COMCAST.NET> To: ; Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: bnoon12(at)comcast.net Hi All, I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the summer I got my Jabiru 3300 to put on a Thorp T-211. At this point, I have received a "temporary" mount based on a mount that is testing on a Thorp T-211 in Scottsdale and am waiting (impatiently) for the new cowling assembly from Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am in the process of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but like most out there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and timidity (on top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of time. At this point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses and where to put things has me buffaloed. I know once I get started things will fall into pl ace. So... My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists &g t; note one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. Also, what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more power to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes sense. I am thinking about two smaller batteries instead of one larger one. The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how things are put together. Guess that's enough for how, thanks, Bruce Noon (520) 991-5844 Tucson, AZ -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania do no archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Silvester To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Andy Silvester" Hi John This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My intention is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feature). We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of months and then encourage more people to use it. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 2003 Mainsail Drive Naples, FL 34114 Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Loram To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "John Loram" I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. -john- Hi All, I have been "lurking" long enough(6 weeks on the various lists). Over the summer I got my Jabiru 3300to put ona Thorp T-211. At this point, I have received a "temporary" mountbasedona mount that is testing on a Thorp T-211 inScottsdaleand am waiting (impatiently) forthe newcowling assembly from Jabiru Pacific that may or may-not work for the Thorp. I am in the process of putting on the mounts and trying to set up my wiring, but like most out there, it seems, between ignorance, lack of gobs of money, and timidity (on top of family priorities) it is taking an inordinate amount of time. At this point, I am mainly concerned with wiring and tools needed and recommendations for books, references, and knowledgable helping hands. Believe it or not, I have a fairly strong background in wiring computer equipment, so know my way around some of the tools, but setting up the fuses and where to put things has me buffaloed. I kno w once I get started things will fall into place. So... My first question, is about the battery recommended. It seems the lists note one type in particular, but at this point, I am open to suggestions. Also, what about backup batteries. It seems that the 3300 needs a bit more power to get it started, from what I read, so want to make sure this makes sense. I am thinking about two smaller batteriesinstead of one larger one. The next question is about electrical tools. I don't have a good crimp tool for the SubD pin connections and plan on getting those, but what else would you all recommend. I would sure like to see examples of wiring and see how things are put together. Guess that's enough for how, thanks, Bruce Noon (520) 991-5844 Tucson, AZ -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 ---- ---------- Original message -------------- -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" Some of us just lurking and seeing if anyone shows up. Jeff Small 601HDS/3300 210 hours southcentral Pennsylvania do no archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Silvester To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Andy Silvester" Hi John This list is relatively new and not (yet) fully promoted by us. My intention is to offer an alternative to the YahooGroups list, with less advertising and using greater benefits (like a very good search / archive feat ure). We'll link it from our web site within the next couple of mo nths and then encourage more people to use it. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 2003 Mainsail Drive Naples, FL 34114 Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Loram To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Greetings and introductions -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "John Loram" I've seen no traffic on this list and am wondering if it is active. I have a 3300 engine (s/n 106) which I am installing in a Q2. -john- ======================================= cs Forums. =============================================== Matronics Forums. ibution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2004
From: Howard Carter <howado(at)cwia.com>
Subject: Another lurker
I am building a CH701 and plan to use a Jabiru3300. About to start on wings, so the engine discussion is a little premature. However, I have some questions; Has anyone had experience with hard starting? Has anyone tried to replace the builti-in ignition system with an electronic system? Howard Carter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Another lurker
Date: Nov 04, 2004
Hi, I have a 3300 in my J450 and have had not problems. I've got 58 hours on it now and flew a J400 for 18 hours also with no problems. I'm not sure why you would want to replace the Honda ingition modules, with something more complex. I suggest you touch base with the Canadian dealer at www.jabirucanada.com to get feedback on a cold climate. You should also check out http://www.jabiru.flyer.co.uk/ for more user experience. -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Howard Carter Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Another lurker I am building a CH701 and plan to use a Jabiru3300. About to start on wings, so the engine discussion is a little premature. However, I have some questions; Has anyone had experience with hard starting? Has anyone tried to replace the builti-in ignition system with an electronic system? Howard Carter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Another lurker
Date: Nov 05, 2004
Howard, Rex Shaw here from Australia. I got your e'mail below. I'm a bit unsure how this came about except that I've had about 6 similar re Jabaru engines list today. I was a subscriber but unsubscribed a few weeks ago. I joined as I train in a Jabiru and had a vested interest although I own a Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster with a Rotax 582 in it. I guess all these messages are coming in to try and rouse some interest in the list. I never did see a thing in the time I was subscribed although the Kitfox list is very active. Anyway re the ignition problem with the Jabiru. I just thought I'd answer you as I might be able to help. Both the Jabiru and my Rotax need 300 RPM to fire up and like you obviously think, so do I, the systems are useless and shouldn't be permitted on a plane. I guess they are there because they are cheap to supplyband install for the manufacturer. I have built a number of CDI's over the years of varying types and I am a recently retired electronics technician so I can talk about the subject with some authority and maybe of some basic help to you. My concern re the 300 RPM needed to get ignition is that if one is down in the bush with just a slightly low battery one can't prop start it. When I bought my plane 12 months ago there was a new ordinary motorcycle battery fitted the day before I flew it home across very deserted country for 3,000 kilometres from Perth In Western Australia to Loxton In South Australia. Now all the way home we did get the plane started each time but it did not start easy really. After that leaving the plane in the hanger for 2 or 3 weeks we found we needed to jump start it for the first time each day. The prop would appear to be swinging over fine and the battery hanging in fairly well, but it would not start. We persevered with this for 6 months before buying a different type of battery and now it fires up that quick you wouldn,t believe it. Our Club Jabiru we use for training had one of these batteries in from new about 3 years ago. A couple of times this winter when it has been real cold it wouldn't start until we warmed it up with a blow heater for 20 minutes. Now the weather is warmer we have no trouble again and it fires at the first touch of the button. So despite it's good record it is weakening but after 3years and.1,000 hours of training work I reckon that's amazing. The batteries I am talking about are Odyssey by Hawker. Mine is a PC625 and the clubs is a Model 700. They are identical except I imported mine from www.batteries4everthing.com so it is USA whereas the clubs was bought in Australia and it's called a Model 700 to stop cross warranty claims. These batteries go under several different type names like AGM, absorbed glass mat or recumbant etc. Basically they do not leak acid if split etc and can be shipped with no problems. The ordinary motorcycle battery I originally had in mine is what is called a flooded wet cell. Now a flooded wet cell loses charge very quickly if left standing. An AGM [Odyssey] will only drop to 50% after 2 years. Also the AGM has a much lower internal resistance and so delivers more start current. It also has a very slightly higher voltage output. This all adds up to a very big difference and has solved my immediate problem Put BR-101 into your seach engine and I think you'll come up with this document explaining about batteries. However although one of these batteries should solve your starting problems if you don't have worn starter bushes or something else, there still remains this rotten 300 RPM problem. We are just covering it up using a good battery. Right in Australia we are governed with our ultralights or small recreational planes by what was called AUF [ Australian Ultralight Federation ] but has just changed its name to RAA [ Recreational Aviation Australia ] They put out a magazine each month that was called Australin Ultralights but is now just Recreational Aviation Australia. In the October 2004 edition there is an article on pages 36,37,40 & 41 by Geoff Hennig how he modified his Jabiru to get it to prop start. Basically he made up a new ignition using a second hand hall sensor unit from the wreckers. This is instead of points. He then made up a high voltage switch so he can swap between this to start at zero RPM and the original system. Frankly I thought it all a bit messy but he too was worried about the problem and he did solve it. If you can get your hands on the magazine you can read all the details. Perhaps from the library or import it as a back copy. Actually at this moment it is the last issue yet recieved. Let's discuss what we have. The Jabiru has the coils in the modules placed close to magnets in the cicumference of the flywheel. As the manets pass they generate both the high voltage and the signal pulse to determine time of firing. My Rotax on the other hand uses coils close to magnets on the flywheel to pickup a signal pulse but the high voltage is generated by the alternator on the end of the crankshaft. I haven't measured this voltage but it is probably about 2 to 400 volts. It chages a capacitor. This charge is then dumped across a coil that steps it up to 20 t0 50,000 volts. This happens when the signal pulse is recieved, it triggers an electronic switch we call an SCR [ silicon controlled rectifier ] I can easily make a little inverter to supply the higher voltage to charge the capacitor that will run from battery voltage even if it is low. Then my only minimum RPM limit is enough revs to supply the signal pulse. I think this will be much lower than 300. So if you wanted to swap whats in the Jabiru for one of these systems there is a basis to start. Also of course as you suggest there is numerous bits and pieces to be sought out and used. I realise you are hoping to find a solution already worked out for your exact situation and I hope you do. However here is some basic thoughts and a semi answer in an AGM battery. Don't underestimate what one of these will do. Prices vary dramatically though so please check. That's why I impoted mine from USA to Australia. Despite exchange rates and freight it still worked out half the price of purchasing locally. www.batteries4everything.com was the cheapest I found and their service was excellent. Their price was $57.42 if I remember right. One last thought re a Jabiru conversion. I would consider what a lot of motorcycles do. They use double ended coils as does my Rotax. They can be used on the Jabiru to good advantage to do away with those distributors. The system can finish up feeding a spark that is redundant to a cylinder when the piston is at TDC but on the non firing stroke when the piston has risen pushing the exhaust gasses out and about to descend to suck in the air/fuel mixture. A redundant spark at this time does no harm. OK Howard, please think about all this and if I can be more help please get back to me. I haven't discussed anything in too much depth as I don't know how much you are following me. However I can do so where required when I know what you can follow and what you want to know. Hope this helps, Kind Regards, Rex. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Carter" <howado(at)cwia.com> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Another lurker > > I am building a CH701 and plan to use a Jabiru3300. About to start on > wings, so the engine discussion is a little premature. However, I have > some questions; > Has anyone had experience with hard starting? Has anyone tried to > replace the builti-in ignition system with an electronic system? > > Howard Carter > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Boultinghouse" <sonex260(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Warp drive prop and prop hub extension
Date: Nov 09, 2004
Hi everybody, Let's get this new list rolling with some actual engine-related questions! I purchased a 2" prop hub extension with my Jabiru 3300, and have installed it following the instructions found on the US Jabiru site in the Zenith FWF section: http://www.usjabiru.com/Zenith%20FWF%20Images/71.%20Fitting%20of%20prop%20fl ange%20extension.PDF Note that step 9 says "With the Prop flange extension, lockwiring of studs is almost impossible." I can verify that! My question is, with the use of red (permanent) Loctite and the Belleville washers do you think the lockwire is mandatory? Next question is about prop choice. I've heard conflicting reports regarding the use of the Warp Drive prop on the 3300. I understand the issues of inefficient airflow at the roots, but think that with a proper spinner and cooling inlet design this can be minimized. The fact that Andy's Airmaster installation (which uses Warp blades) cools fine supports that theory. The Norwegian Jabiru site has an interesting comparison test between several props, with the Warp drive coming out on top: http://www.jabiru.no/PropTest.htm I have also seen the report of cracked hubs with the Warp Drive/Jabiru combination, but that is the lightweight hub. The much beefier HP hub is what should be used on direct drive engines. My initial choice was an Ed Sterba wood prop (around $400) but the idea of being able to adjust the pitch until satisfied makes the Warp drive (comparably priced, I believe) appealing. Any comments or advice appreciated! Regards, Chris Boultinghouse Austin, TX Sonex N260SX (reserved) http://sonex260.wheelsup.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Warp drive prop and prop hub extension
Date: Nov 09, 2004
Safety wiring the hub bolts does take some dexterity with a long pair of needle nose pliers in addition to regular safety wire pliers. The reverse is also true, but achievable, having done both. Remember to only do pairs of bolts, rather then trying to do all 6 at once. I have also seen the permanent "locktite" used. Just make sure you have a calibrated torque wrench and the correct settings. That goes double for the prop bolts. I would also go with a minimum 3/8" prop bolt, the Jabiru 1/4" bolts in my opinion are undersized. - --> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Boultinghouse" <sonex260(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Storing a 3300: How long?
Date: Nov 13, 2004
Hi group, September marked one year since I received my Jabiru 3300. Though it is mounted and mostly connected to my Sonex, I'm still a few months away from being ready for "first start". My question is: How long can a new engine sit before damage is done, assuming the carb and exhaust caps are left in place? Should I do anything special to the engine? Regards, Chris Boultinghouse Austin, TX Sonex N260SX (reserved) http://sonex260.wheelsup.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Storing a 3300: How long?
Date: Nov 13, 2004
My recollection from an Oshkosh conversation on this topic is the Jabiru factory will allow up to 3 years of storage without impact to warranty. Check with your distributor of Australia for offical answer. -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Boultinghouse Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Storing a 3300: How long? --> Hi group, September marked one year since I received my Jabiru 3300. Though it is mounted and mostly connected to my Sonex, I'm still a few months away from being ready for "first start". My question is: How long can a new engine sit before damage is done, assuming the carb and exhaust caps are left in place? Should I do anything special to the engine? Regards, Chris Boultinghouse Austin, TX Sonex N260SX (reserved) http://sonex260.wheelsup.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2004
From: Philip J Witham <p.j.witham(at)ieee.org>
Subject: Re: Storing a 3300: How long?
Did you ever run it? If not, I believe it was prepped for storage. >My question is: > >How long can a new engine sit before damage is done, assuming the carb and >exhaust caps are left in place? > >Should I do anything special to the engine? > >Regards, > >Chris Boultinghouse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Boultinghouse" <sonex260(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Storing a 3300: How long?
Date: Nov 14, 2004
Thanks, Pete! I didn't turn the engine more than a few degrees when I changed the prop hub. So even if I did disturb the oil film I think I should be OK, especially since I just changed the hub last month and I should be ready for first start in a couple of more months. (Thanks for posting those hub installation instructions, by the way!) I think this message should stay in the archives, so I'm leaving your reply and clipping out the phrase that would keep it from being archived. I love this new list! : ) Regards, Chris Boultinghouse Austin, TX Sonex N260SX (reserved) http://sonex260.wheelsup.org > -----Original Message----- > Don, > > Turning the engine over is the wrong approach to storage. > Cylinder barrels > are coated with a light film of inhibiting oil. Moving the pistons in the > barrel can disturb the film coating and allow corrosion to start. > > If any builder has turned the engine over and has some time yet before > startup I would advise to read the manual and follow the flying > (short term) > storage instructions. > > The only cases I have seen where rust appeared in new engines was in two > cases where the owner couldn't resist turning it over long before it was > ready to start. Keep in mind that even changing prop hubs can move those > pistons quite a bit so take care to hold the crank fixed. > > Pete > > -----Original Message----- > Hi Chris, > the best thing you can do is to manually turn it over > occasionally, but not > to run it as it has been set up for storage from the factory. I had mine > installed soon after purchase but we did not run it for 2 and a > half years > It is fine! > Regards, > Don Boyd _-===================================================================== _-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- _-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) _-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the _-= Contribution link below to find out more about this _-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com! _-_-= List Contribution Web Site _-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-_-= Thank you for your generous support! _-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _-_-===================================================================== _-= - The JabiruEngine-List Email Forum - _-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. _-===================================================================== _-= List Related Information _-= Post Message: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com _-= UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription _-= List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/JabiruEngine-List.htm _-= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search _-= 7-Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/jabiruengine-list _-= Browse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/jabiruengine-list _-= Live List Chat: http://www.matronics.com/chat _-= Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives _-= Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare _-= List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/jabiruengine-list _-= Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists _-= Trouble Report http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report _-= Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-===================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2004
From: James Sagerser <alaskajim(at)cox.net>
Subject: Alternator hum on Jabiru 2200
I am experiencing a "hum" in the headset of my Zenith CH 701 with a Jabiru 2200 after I turn on the alternator. I assume there is a fix but where and how? Thanks in advance for your response. _-===================================================================== _-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- _-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) _-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the _-= Contribution link below to find out more about this _-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com! _-_-= List Contribution Web Site _-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-_-= Thank you for your generous support! _-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _-_-===================================================================== _-= - The JabiruEngine-List Email Forum - _-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. _-===================================================================== _-= List Related Information _-= Post Message: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com _-= UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription _-= List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/JabiruEngine-List.htm _-= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search _-= 7-Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/jabiruengine-list _-= Browse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/jabiruengine-list _-= Live List Chat: http://www.matronics.com/chat _-= Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives _-= Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare _-= List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/jabiruengine-list _-= Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists _-= Trouble Report http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report _-= Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-===================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________ DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; b=ulkm+jedYoiQLxqoPmV/F1PFeXSPiqSzp+uaWg1w+YSkwEyuKH6JN/sNLFnDiGmi5nTfS4jnGgr+gOYbWMlrpSohBMfoj6qLS1gjNfyaA8jTYtoj3XYgWQ3kUwEWICNYiKeHHQmx2cjVVLO8lBBaIxK++nOm7DXpTLREJb0vZIM;
Date: Nov 17, 2004
From: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Test
Just verifying if I'm a member of the list. Jose M. Toro, P.E. Kitfox II/582 "A slow flight in the Caribbean..." --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2004
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists
Dear Listers, Wow! People have been including some very nice comments along with their Contributions lately! I've included another set of below and will send another set in a couple of days. Guys, I really appreciate your kind words and support. In the last few days, the contributions have really started to come in and its looking like support this year may slightly surpass last year's. There's still a few days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the last minute to make your Contribution, now's the time! Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ----------------- More of What Listers Are Saying... -------------------- Every morning 5:30 am, coffee and the "List". It's how I start my day. Robert G. The list is still my favorite aviation magazine. Roger H. Great resource, without the distraction of pop ups and ads! Douglas D. I look forward to my daily list reading almost as much as my coffee! Hal K. Great service! Aaron G. I have made some great friends, because of it! Bob D. Great resource!! Richard S. I learn something of value every time I read the messages. Stan S. Great list! Thomas E. Now that I am close to completion of my [homebuilt], I look back and wonder how I could ever have made it this far without [the Lists]. Jeff O. Outstanding site and administration. Anthony S. Great forum for our projects. Darrel M. I have become a List Addict! George M. A very helpful resource for me. Dennis K. Great for staying up on the latest. Forrest L. Valuable benefit for the users. George A. Great tool for all [builders]. Tony M. Can't tell you how much I appreciate the archives. Ken B. I really enjoy the sharing of information and the "discussions" that come up. Ross S. [The List] reminds us home builders that help is just a few clicks away. Danny W. A great resource! Christopher S. Always a pleasure to support this list! Richard W. Thanks for helping all of us build better aircraft. John P. Great list(s)for data, info and making friends. John S. [The] List has helped me much with my building process. Raimo T. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: EGT Temps / New economy kit
Date: Nov 28, 2004
The following question (and my answer) was posted on *another* Jabiru Engines list, and I thought it would be helpful to post here too. Let me know if you have any questions.. Question: Subject: EGT temps What you guys running for EGT temps? Mine are between 1150 and 1250 F? My answer: EGTs are a relative measurement - it depends on the position of the sensors, but (to answer your question) I run our 3300 Jabiru demonstrator to around 1420 in the cruise. This is provided by the latest 'economy' needle and jet setup for the Bing Carb. The needle has a very different shape, and gives a definite rich - condition at maximum throttle / load. The results from Jabiru's (limited) testing shows the following: 1. Jabiru have said that the economy kit works well for 'standard' engine loadings on their own (Jabiru) aircraft and propellers. They have tried a couple of (very) experimental setups and it's obvious that the engine loading has to be within a certain range for the setup to work. A cruise RPM between 2700 and 2850 with a wide-open throttle rpm in level flight of around 3250 should be fine, but an engine operating at (say) 2400 in cruise and 2700 flat-out would probably not benefit, and may in fact be damaged by over-leaning. 2. The ideal fuel:air mixture ratio for the engine is 14.5 : 1. Existing needle and jet setups provide around 12 - 12.5:1 which we all feel is 'safe ground' when operating the engine in so many different installations. The new needle /j et setup (as tested on Jabiru aircraft and propellers) gives 14.3:1 which is pretty close, but still just on the rich-side of peak. Hopefully you can see that a different propeller / engine / airframe combination will cause different loadings, and therefore different results, depending on where the carburetor slide (and hence main needle position) is. With the above in mind, I'm confident to offer the carburetor conversion to the economy setup for 2200 and 3300 engines with the following conditions: a. Initially, we'll offer the conversion to aircraft which have EGT measurement on all cylinders and also those which exhibit rpm/load characteristics which conform to the information above. We need to know that cruise EGTs are not exceeding 1450F and that wide-open EGTs are around 1350F or less, and measuring the hottest-EGT (as per the EIS) will confirm this easily. b. Customers send-in their carburetor for conversion, and get the same one back. The job involves careful re-drilling of an air-bleed jet as well as changing-out some of the internals. I'll offer a turnaround within three business days assuming parts in stock, and include a thorough inspection and clean of the carburetor with adjustment to float levels (unless specifically declined!), a check of the diaphragm, seals and gaskets, and replacement of the float needle with the upgraded version (if applicable) with stiffer spring. Cost is $185 which includes the economy kit and labor for converting / checking / adjusting. Additional parts (gaskets / diaphragms / float needles, etc) charged extra, as is return shipping (Priority mail) and insurance. c. I'll need to discuss individual cases for low-time engines. Clearly, we will have problems supporting a warranty claim if an engine has been cooked after fitting the economy kit (unlikely if you follow the above rules, but anything's possible). My advice is to get at least 80 - hours on your engine before considering this. New engines are tighter and benefit from running-in with a richer fuel/air condition. Customers should note that they will need to re-adjust the idle setting on re-fitting, but should see an improvement in gas consumption or more than 15%. Ours worked out to 22% improvement. Could be just the thing to give your engine for Christmas, unless you're in Florida, where you'll be wondering how you can do without the airplane for a few days.. Apologies for the shameless commercial plug, but I'm thinking some will be interested. Andy Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 2005-2 Mainsail Drive Naples, FL 3114 Tel: (239) 394 6800 Fax: (239) 394 0726 www.suncoastjabiru.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2004
From: "coolmate_04(at)cashette.com" <no-reply(at)cashette.com>
Subject: Re: EGT Temps / New economy kit
Dear Friend: Thank you for your email. Your message has not reached my Inbox because you are not yet on my Approved List. To reach my Inbox, please click on this link. When I respond to your message, you will be automatically added to my Approved List! Warm regards, coolmate_04(at)cashette.com __________________________ Note from Cashette: If you don't see any link above, copy and paste the link below to your browser: http://home.cashette.com/myCashette/newUser.do?ms=info%40suncoastjabiru.com&mr=coolmate_04%40cashette.com&rid=coolmate_04&sec=qI6W&dt=1101757206439 If you are a business, click Business. -----Original Message:----- From: info(at)suncoastjabiru.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: EGT Temps / New economy kit __________________________ Cashette stops spam. 100% effective and free! Go to http://home.cashette.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2004
From: "coolmate_04(at)cashette.com" <no-reply(at)cashette.com>
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 11/28/04
Dear Friend: Thank you for your email. Your message has not reached my Inbox because you are not yet on my Approved List. To reach my Inbox, please click on this link. When I respond to your message, you will be automatically added to my Approved List! Warm regards, coolmate_04(at)cashette.com __________________________ Note from Cashette: If you don't see any link above, copy and paste the link below to your browser: http://home.cashette.com/myCashette/newUser.do?ms=jabiruengine-list-digest%40matronics.com&mr=coolmate_04%40cashette.com&rid=coolmate_04&name=JabiruEngine-List+Digest+Server&sec=QLSF&dt=1101757046067 If you are a business, click Business. -----Original Message:----- From: JabiruEngine-List Digest Server jabiruengine-list-digest(at)matronics.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 11/28/04 __________________________ Cashette stops spam. 100% effective and free! Go to http://home.cashette.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "wmtatham(at)juno.com" <wmtatham(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 03, 2004
Subject: 2200 on a Kolb Mark III Classic
Wow, now Matronics has it all! ! ! A Kolb list AND and Jab Engine list . . . . I've been flying a Mk III will a 2200 for just over a year now and have 105 hours on it. I've been dissapointed with the search engine and navigation out on the Yahoo list so Matronics is a welcome change. It's cold now here in Ohio and I'm not into winter aviation. As such, the Mk III is in the garage getting some tweaks to it. The 2200 works very well on the Kolb. It sure draws a lot of attention from the GA types when they hear and then see that beautifully desgined engine. C'mon Spring!! Regards to all, Will Tatham Juno Gift Certificates Give the gift of Internet access this holiday season. http://www.juno.com/give ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Jan 07, 2005
Subject: [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics
TONIGHT! Dear Listers, Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate into the depths of the Internet. If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even notice! :-) Thanks for your patience! Matt Dralle List Administrator -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: Jeff Davidson <jeffrey.davidson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: FWF Selection for a Zenith 601 HD
Finally I am at the stage in my project at which I'm forced to make a FWF forward selection in order to proceed. With little FWF experience myself, but with lots of experience available via my local EAA chapter, I'm looking for advice on the suitability of the Jabiru 3300 with the Zenith FWF package for my project. I'm building a CH 601 HD with a firewall built with the heavier XL parts. These include the thicker "shelf", the formed gussets to replace the L's just under the shelf, the additional U channel on the cabin side of the "shelf", and the retention of the original design firewall stiffeners for the HD. I'm pretty much decided on the Jabiru 3300 for smoothness, low noise level, a little power reserve - I'll probably run it at 2750 (100 HP) most of the time, that a pre-engineered FWF package is available, and the great testimonials I have heard. Basically, I want the easiest to install, most reliable, engine I can get. I'd appreciate any wisdom that I might learn from and/or any hints on how to actually make the purchase. Experience installing the engine and with the wooden Sensenich propeller would be appreciated. From what I have learned on my own, there is about one choice and only one (expensive) price! Thank you in advance. Jeff Davidson Herndon, Virginia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Davidson" <jeffrey.davidson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: FWF Selection for a Zenith 601 HD
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Thanks to everyone that responded on the list and off. Several of you mentioned the Yahoo site. I'll "see" you there! Jeff Davidson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 5100 c Jabiru
Date: Apr 03, 2005
to All we are preparing enginne no 006 FADEC fuel injection fully ported w/multi angle valves seats ceramic coated pistons , heads, valves ,exhaust port,and moly/teflon piston skirts, ceramic exhaust system The base of the (jugs) cyl is reinforced w/titanium inserts to take the additonal 25 to 35hp. Titanium or stainless steel tuned exhaust syst. are a complement to these mods the engine sports beween 205 to 215hp w/ready to fly 250 lb. tbo remaining the same at 2000 hrs We are doing it on an experimental basis. If someboby needs to know more about our program , fell free to give us a call . we are doing it to help the stagnent stage of devellopment in that field. no charge dr gilles st pierre aviation bsl note: we are not doing on a commercial basis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade...
Dear Listers, I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade. Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please just try posting it again. Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux 7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them. I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer to it as often as you like: http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/ Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades possible! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete!
Dear Listers, The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update. If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net. Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a major system upgrade! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote: >Dear Listers, > >I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This >includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable >processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from >scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at >the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade. > >Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but >a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show >up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then >please just try posting it again. > >Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux >7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great >deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to >the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems >will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an >absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the >cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them. > >I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List >Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer >to it as often as you like: > > http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/ > > >Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at >Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades >possible! > >Best regards, > >Matt Dralle >Matronics Email List Administrator Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Bartlett" <bbartlett5(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Dual Mufflers
Date: Apr 18, 2005
I have a Jabiru 3300 equipped with a "cross-over" muffler connecting the two exhaust pipes. A friend has the same muffler and has had problems with the MIG welding. MIG welding did not hold and he had it TIG welded. Problems come about when the new welding is not exact and the two exhaust pipes are not perfectly aligned. So, I was considering a dual exhaust system with each exhaust pipe connected to it's own muffler. Has anyone any experience with a dual exhaust system for the Jabiru 3300? Bill, N140BB, 601XL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Dual Mufflers
Date: Apr 19, 2005
Have you inspected to see if your muffler was MIG'ed? My 3300 is SN 410, and was TIG'ed, no problems so far at 82 Hrs. TIG repair is a challange due to thin material in muffler vs thicker stack. Repair, see Jabuiru.AU website, is easier if done before cracks appear. I haven't heard of anyone with dual mufflers. I have seen a straight pipe extension use by some Sonex aircraft with the single muffler inlet for each side. I also noted at Sun-N-Fun last week, that a different configuration muffler with seperate inlets for each cylinder has been developed. That enginge was configured for a Europa. Jim Stone N450SJ J450 Clearwater FL. USA -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bartlett Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Dual Mufflers --> I have a Jabiru 3300 equipped with a "cross-over" muffler connecting the two exhaust pipes. A friend has the same muffler and has had problems with the MIG welding. MIG welding did not hold and he had it TIG welded. Problems come about when the new welding is not exact and the two exhaust pipes are not perfectly aligned. So, I was considering a dual exhaust system with each exhaust pipe connected to it's own muffler. Has anyone any experience with a dual exhaust system for the Jabiru 3300? Bill, N140BB, 601XL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Bartlett" <bbartlett5(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Dual Mufflers
Date: Apr 19, 2005
Jim, yes my muffler has the TIG weld. I'm happy to hear that you have over 80 hours on yours with no problems. Perhaps I'm overly concerned because of the problems my friend had with the MIG'ed weld. -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Dual Mufflers Have you inspected to see if your muffler was MIG'ed? My 3300 is SN 410, and was TIG'ed, no problems so far at 82 Hrs. TIG repair is a challange due to thin material in muffler vs thicker stack. Repair, see Jabuiru.AU website, is easier if done before cracks appear. I haven't heard of anyone with dual mufflers. I have seen a straight pipe extension use by some Sonex aircraft with the single muffler inlet for each side. I also noted at Sun-N-Fun last week, that a different configuration muffler with seperate inlets for each cylinder has been developed. That enginge was configured for a Europa. Jim Stone N450SJ J450 Clearwater FL. USA -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bartlett Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Dual Mufflers --> I have a Jabiru 3300 equipped with a "cross-over" muffler connecting the two exhaust pipes. A friend has the same muffler and has had problems with the MIG welding. MIG welding did not hold and he had it TIG welded. Problems come about when the new welding is not exact and the two exhaust pipes are not perfectly aligned. So, I was considering a dual exhaust system with each exhaust pipe connected to it's own muffler. Has anyone any experience with a dual exhaust system for the Jabiru 3300? Bill, N140BB, 601XL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Undelivered Mail Returned to Sender
Date: Apr 20, 2005
>From: MAILER-DAEMON(at)mta.everyone.net (Mail Delivery System) >To: ranchlaseigneurie(at)hotmail.com >Subject: Undelivered Mail Returned to Sender >Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 12:35:57 -0700 (PDT) > >This is the Postfix email server. > >I'm sorry to have to inform you that the message returned >below could not be delivered to one or more destinations. > >For further assistance, please contact the postmaster at the recipient >domain. > >If you do so, please include this problem report. You can >delete your own text from the message returned below. > > The Postfix program > >: Sorry, this mailbox does not accept mail from your >address. > ><< message3.txt >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 3300 jabiru
Date: Apr 20, 2005
Howard, we will have the kit (FADEC) ready in a couple of months. And believe me it is of very high quality. get back to me around that time. By the way i am taking no profit ,i m just trying to help a very talentuous young engineer to emerge from the ground.... sincerely gilles dr gilles st pierre bsl aviation From: Howard Carter <howado(at)cwia.com> Reply To: howado(at)cwia.com Subject: Jabiru 3300 Gilles, your engine mods are very interesting to me since I am planning to use a Jab3300. However, I would like to use the FADEC idea on this engine. Is there anything about your developments that could be used on a Jab 3300? Regards, Howard Carter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "QSDU MT ISA" <mtisa(at)qsdu.com.au>
Subject: Re: FWF Selection for a Zenith 601 HD
Date: May 05, 2005
Hi Jeff please change my email address to wnjhurst(at)aanet.com.au Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Davidson" <jeffrey.davidson(at)earthlink.net> Subject: FW: JabiruEngine-List: FWF Selection for a Zenith 601 HD > > > Thanks to everyone that responded on the list and off. Several of you > mentioned the Yahoo site. I'll "see" you there! > Jeff Davidson > > > __________ NOD32 1.852 (20040828) Information __________ > > This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. > http://www.nod32.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Warren" <p.pwarren(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Jabiru 3300
Date: Jun 01, 2005
I am interested to find out how people are getting on with the Jabiru 3300. The good points and the bad points and is anyone having any problems. Is anyone using a constant speed propeller? There are no comments coming through this forum so I wonder who reads it. Peter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Jabiru 3300
Date: May 31, 2005
I've got 87 hours on my J450 with a 3300. So far nothing unusual, that hasn't been operator induced. Oil analysis looks typical for a new engine. I used about 8 oz per 25 hours of operation during initial breakin. Checking valvs clearances and head torque at 5 hour interval in first 25 hours showed no significant changes. I did manage to stick a valve during extened ground tests of a new prop design. I was doing vibration analysis tests ramping up RPM to full throttle, when we lost 1 of 14 accelerometer data channels at around 3150 RPM. It was the end of a long day, etc. Bottom line was I didn't do a proper cool down, shut off the engine, go out turned the plane around, and tried an immediate restart without rechecking CHTs. Wrong move, valve stuck during restart process and went KLUNK! As a result I had to swap a head, to keep the test schedule. The removed head had #6 exhaust seat pull about 3/16" out from seated position. It did not contact piston. We swapped heads, and were back running with about 4 hours work. (Note: standard automotive valve spring compressors don't fit Jabiru heads. I'll share all my custom tool sketchs if anyone's interested.) The new prop we are testing is a Sensenich ground adjustabe carbon fiber design. Setup won't require a protractor, it has a built in index. It will probable be available late this summer. We have flown it several times and are refining the manufacturing process to match the blades to the direct drive power pulses. Basic design is similar to their W64Z51 wood prop with FG outter layers. Dynamic inertia will match the standard fixed blades. We haven't addressed the mounting of a spinner yet, but it is planned. Since then, I've also discovered a ground loop problem with the engine monitor electronics, which gave an nonlinear claibration, so at high end was reading low. I'm now running oil bath tests on all thermocouples to get new calibration coefficients. I also ordered a industrial thermocouple to profile the EGTs. I am aware of some problems with a batch of mufflers that were MIG welded rather then TIG welded. Factory had a service letter on it. Mine were TIG'ed, so no problems. I've also participated in the ignition module swap because it was available. I didn't have an operational problem. I have the carburator upgrade kit, but haven't gotten around to installing it. I'm currently burning 6.2 GPH at 115 KIAS. At cruise I've been told a 10% improvement is typical. I have also added a second high amperage alternator to my 3300. I uses a belt drive off the vaccume pad to support a fully redundent glass cockpit, electric flaps, HID landing lights, etc. Again a highly customized implementation requiring more electrical power then the built-in unit was designed to support. So, in general I am satisfied with both the engine and support I have received on the Jabiru 3300. Jim Stone N450SJ Clearwater FL. -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Warren Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 3300 --> I am interested to find out how people are getting on with the Jabiru 3300. The good points and the bad points and is anyone having any problems. Is anyone using a constant speed propeller? There are no comments coming through this forum so I wonder who reads it. Peter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Krotje" <pkrotje(at)athenet.net>
Subject: Jabiru 3300
Date: May 31, 2005
Peter, Judging by the way these lists work, if there were a lot of issues people would be crying out on the list. The lack of input sort of corresponds to our lack of parts and service sales. There is not much going on. A more active list is the jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com list. Pete Krotje Jabiru USA -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Warren Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 3300 --> I am interested to find out how people are getting on with the Jabiru 3300. The good points and the bad points and is anyone having any problems. Is anyone using a constant speed propeller? There are no comments coming through this forum so I wonder who reads it. Peter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2005
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Jabiru 3300
Peter, Others have replied with factual information but I thought I'd add that I have been using an Airmaster AP332 electric constant speed propeller on our Jabiru J400 demonstrator (3300 powered) for some 180 hours, or so. I'm very pleased with the performance which improves about 10% in take-off roll and initial climb (3100 rpm), and about 0.5 gallons per hour in cruise (2600 rpm). We had to work a little harder to maintain acceptable ground cooling in high summer in Florida, due to the prop's use of the Warp Drive blades and the comparative lack of blade pitch adjacent to the ram-air cooling inlets. Bigger inlets and attention to balancing Cylinder Head temps (CHTs) and 'tweaking' to improve the duct-to-engine seal all improved matters. In all, it's not a cheap propeller option at around $6,000 but if you need the improved takeoff and cruise performance then go for it. I tell my customers that it's a 'nice thing to have' rather than a necessity. The 3300's power and torque curves are flatter than (say) the Rotax 912, so for the Jabiru, it's hard to beat a fixed or ground adjustable prop for the money. The new Sensenich carbon-bladed ground adjustable prop looks like being a very good performer. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 39248 South Ave. Zephyrhills, FL 33542 Tel: 813 779 2324 Fax: 813 779 2246 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Warren Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 3300 I am interested to find out how people are getting on with the Jabiru 3300. The good points and the bad points and is anyone having any problems. Is anyone using a constant speed propeller? There are no comments coming through this forum so I wonder who reads it. Peter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2005
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Suncoast Sportplanes' new contact info
All, Just to let listers here know that Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. has moved some 200 miles north to Zephyrhills, still in Florida, USA. The reasons for the move were primarily expansion but also to put the dealership closer to our customers and key supplier community. Business as usual, but will need a few days to get stuff unpacked and reorganized... Thanks Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 39248 South Ave. Zephyrhills, FL 33542 Tel: 813 779 2324 Fax: 813 779 2246 www.suncoastjabiru.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 30, 2005
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/29/05
Hello Jab list, I have not posted anything here before, but have on the Zenith thread. I have a 3300 in my XL. From first start up the oil pressure reading has shown 90 + pounds on the VDO gauge. On recommendation I installed another sender unit that was supposed to be more compatible with the VDO. Still it showed 90 + until warmed up and then at idle it would retreat to about 70 pounds showing. I installed a temporary mechanical gauge and it showed about 65 to 70 pounds at rev and about 50 pounds at warm idle. So I suppose the electric gauge is malfunctioning. Anybody seen the same thing ?. Best regards, Bill of Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 30, 2005
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/29/05
Bill, It could be a faulty oil pressure sender, so you should take it up with your engine supplier if it's still in warranty or (probably less hassle) get a VDO sender from your local auto parts store - they are a pretty standard item. Once you know you are reading the correct pressures, let me know and we'll see if they are within normal limits. The numbers you gave seem a touch on the high side but within limits. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/29/05 Hello Jab list, I have not posted anything here before, but have on the Zenith thread. I have a 3300 in my XL. From first start up the oil pressure reading has shown 90 + pounds on the VDO gauge. On recommendation I installed another sender unit that was supposed to be more compatible with the VDO. Still it showed 90 + until warmed up and then at idle it would retreat to about 70 pounds showing. I installed a temporary mechanical gauge and it showed about 65 to 70 pounds at rev and about 50 pounds at warm idle. So I suppose the electric gauge is malfunctioning. Anybody seen the same thing ?. Best regards, Bill of Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Krotje" <pkrotje(at)athenet.net>
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/29/05
Date: Jun 30, 2005
Bill, It would seem that the electric gauge is not compatible with the senders you have tried. Since the mechanical gauge shows OP in the right range for a new engine, I would strongly suspect some inaccuracy or incompatibility between sender and gauge. It is odd, though, that the VDO sender you installed would not be compatibie with a VDO gauge. Perhaps it is just a bad gauge. Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Silvester Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/29/05 --> Bill, It could be a faulty oil pressure sender, so you should take it up with your engine supplier if it's still in warranty or (probably less hassle) get a VDO sender from your local auto parts store - they are a pretty standard item. Once you know you are reading the correct pressures, let me know and we'll see if they are within normal limits. The numbers you gave seem a touch on the high side but within limits. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/29/05 Hello Jab list, I have not posted anything here before, but have on the Zenith thread. I have a 3300 in my XL. From first start up the oil pressure reading has shown 90 + pounds on the VDO gauge. On recommendation I installed another sender unit that was supposed to be more compatible with the VDO. Still it showed 90 + until warmed up and then at idle it would retreat to about 70 pounds showing. I installed a temporary mechanical gauge and it showed about 65 to 70 pounds at rev and about 50 pounds at warm idle. So I suppose the electric gauge is malfunctioning. Anybody seen the same thing ?. Best regards, Bill of Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2005
Subject: [ Robt C. Harrison ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Robt C. Harrison Lists: Europa-List,JabiruEngine-List Subject: Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300 G-PTAG http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk.07.09.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Digest Truncation Fixed!!
Dear Listers, I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message. I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we should be back in business on the Digests. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2005
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Updated 2200 Installation manual available for download
"Jabiruengines" All, I've posted an updated 2200 Installation manual on our web site. The manual covers the latest engines which now incorporate hydraulic valve lifters, but I notice also includes very useful installation information which will be of interest to anyone installing a Jabiru engine - most of the principles apply to 2200s and 3300s alike. See: http://www.suncoastjabiru.com/Files/Engine%20Docs/2200/HL_Installation_Manua l_2200_Rev_0.pdf Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. www.suncoastjabiru.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2005
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Re: Updated 2200 Installation manual
Apologies, here is a link that should work: http://www.suncoastjabiru.com/Files/Engine%20Docs/2200/HL_Installation_Manua l_2200_Rev_0.pdf Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. www.suncoastjabiru.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 2005
Subject: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts
Dear Jabiru Friends, I have a question on torque for the prop bolts. I have the Jabiru FWF kit with the Sensenich wood prop that comes with the kit. The issue is the Jabiru Installation and Maintenance manual specifies on page 94 that the prop bolts be tightened to 7 foot pounds while the Sensenich installation manual says 15-19 foot pounds. What is correct ? I know wooden props require a bit more observation and maintenance and damage easily at the hub so what is the correct torque? Hope to hear back from someone, Best regards, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts
Date: Aug 03, 2005
The Sensenich prop should be mounted with 3/8" bolts rather then the 1/4" bolts used on the standard "Jabiru made prop". Therefore the 15-19 foot pounds is the correct value to use. Undertorque will result in prop damage and burning ( as in smoke and charred surfaces ) so be sure to use a good Torque wrench. To much torque will crush hub allowing moisture to get into wood. Follow Senseniches instructions. Jim Stone Jabiru J450 builder. -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts Dear Jabiru Friends, I have a question on torque for the prop bolts. I have the Jabiru FWF kit with the Sensenich wood prop that comes with the kit. The issue is the Jabiru Installation and Maintenance manual specifies on page 94 that the prop bolts be tightened to 7 foot pounds while the Sensenich installation manual says 15-19 foot pounds. What is correct ? I know wooden props require a bit more observation and maintenance and damage easily at the hub so what is the correct torque? Hope to hear back from someone, Best regards, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 2005
Subject: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 2005
Subject: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts
thank you Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Jabiru 3300 Carbon Fiber Propeller prototype
Date: Aug 03, 2005
FYI, I have been working with Sensenich to test a new ground adjustable carbon fiber propeller for Jabiru 2200 and 3300 engines. This has included both ground and flight tests of multiple configurations to insure the strenght and safety of this new Sensenich product. They are currently selling a similar, but not interchangable, unit for Rotax engines. Sensenich is currently reviewing the latest flight test data, and will probable give the go ahead for production within a couple months. The flight tests included instrumenting the blades and shanks with up to 16 accelerometers to measure dynamic stresses. I currently fly a Sensenich W64ZK51 wood and fiberglass prop on my J450. The new carbon fiber is a little smoother and faster at some settings. A wide range of pitches will be available via the built in adjustment index so not seperate protractor is needed during adjustments. Oshkosh brochure indicated that the full pice will be $1525 for a prop with a nickel leading edge. I post an update here when I get additional data from Sensenich. Jim Stone Jabiru J450 Clearwater FL. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Guilmette, Ph.D." <bruce(at)survivecancer.net>
List-Id: List-Unsubscribe:
Date: Aug 03, 2005
Subject: RE: [cancercured] Stopping Smoking
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI Hate to say it, but the only way to quit is quit. Take the carton, throw it in the trash, don't buy or borrow. The physical addiction will pass, believe it or not. The psychological addiction will last the rest of your life. That is the really tough part. Prayer helps, but you must make the first step. QUIT. Been there, done that. Quit drinking and smoking the same day, 36 years ago. Was a nasty person to be around for about a month. Could start again tomorrow, but will not. Bruce Guilmette _____ From: Zena Enlow Thank you so much Bruce. My daughter-in-law made me a present of all the stop smoking aids...patches, gum, printed material and a letter telling me how much the family loved me and want to have me with them longer and that they would do whatever necessary to support me in my smoking cessation. I just must stop but I keep saying, "after this carton". In the past I had a problem with alcohol...one day I looked into the sky and said, "God, please remove the desire to drink from me...you know I don't mean it, but do it anyway". I have not had a drink in sixteen years and have not even been tempted. It is a true miracle. I have prayed for the desire to smoke to be removed as well, but so far it hasn't been. I know I need to be more determined and hopeful. I will eventually stop this horrible habit. I hate it...I would like to smell fresh and nice one more time. Does he tell you he loves you when he's hitting you? Abuse. Narrated by Halle Berry. Are you digging your grave with your teeth? Read Hundreds of Collected Cancer Testimonials and learn: http://curezone.com/forums/fd50.asp?f=2 Learn more about cancer: http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/ http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/faq.asp You are receiving this email because you elected to subscribe to the cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com. To unsubscribe from this list, simply send blank e-mail message to: cancercured-nomail(at)yahoogroups.com To post message: cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com To subscribe: cancercured-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to digest: cancercured-digest(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to normal: cancercured-normal(at)yahoogroups.com By joining the list you agree to hold yourself FULLY responsible FOR yourself! List Archives: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/messages/ <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: cancercured-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gshaner2" <gshaner2(at)tampabay.rr.com>
List-Id: List-Unsubscribe:
Date: Aug 07, 2005
Subject: RE: [cancercured] hemorrhaging
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI essiac tea for starters but I would do a liver and kidney cleanse ASAP essiac tea has Turkish rhubarb in it it comes in an extract Joe Behalf Of pollynjim Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 6:13 PM To: cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com Subject: [cancercured] hemorrhaging Has anyone heard about using Rhubarb Powder to stop hemorrhaging? If so, what kind and where to get it. My husband has had blood (varying amounts) in his urine for several weeks. We need something to stop the bleeding and also something to rebuild the liver and bones. He has mets in the spine and hips from the cancer. Polly Need Help? Get Help! Tools and Strategies for Healthy Drug-Free Living. Are you digging your grave with your teeth? Read Hundreds of Collected Cancer Testimonials and learn: http://curezone.com/forums/fd50.asp?f=2 Learn more about cancer: http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/ http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/faq.asp You are receiving this email because you elected to subscribe to the cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com. To unsubscribe from this list, simply send blank e-mail message to: cancercured-nomail(at)yahoogroups.com To post message: cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com To subscribe: cancercured-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to digest: cancercured-digest(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to normal: cancercured-normal(at)yahoogroups.com By joining the list you agree to hold yourself FULLY responsible FOR yourself! List Archives: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/messages/ <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: cancercured-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts
Date: Aug 07, 2005
This came up at last week's Jabiru Engine Seminar at Jabiru USA in Shelbyville**. Mr Stone is correct. Standard US policy is for min 3/8 in bolts for props, not 1/4 as used in the Aus Jabirus. Also, the Aus Prop is made of a softer wood that could be crushed with higher torques. ** GREAT SEMINAR and highly recommended if presented again next year. Well worth the minimal cost compared to the wealth of info that could save much more. Tony Graziano N493TG (601XL with a 3300A) >>> From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com> > Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts > > > The Sensenich prop should be mounted with 3/8" bolts rather then the > 1/4" bolts used on the standard "Jabiru made prop". Therefore the > 15-19 foot pounds is the correct value to use. Undertorque will result > in prop damage and burning ( as in smoke and charred surfaces ) so be > sure to use a good Torque wrench. To much torque will crush hub > allowing moisture to get into wood. Follow Senseniches instructions. > > Jim Stone > Jabiru J450 builder. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Jabiru 3300 Propeller Bolts > > > > Dear Jabiru Friends, I have a question on torque for the prop bolts. I > have > the Jabiru FWF kit with the Sensenich wood prop that comes with the kit. > The > issue is the Jabiru Installation and Maintenance manual specifies on > page 94 > that the prop bolts be tightened to 7 foot pounds while the Sensenich > installation manual says 15-19 foot pounds. What is correct ? I know > wooden props > require a bit more observation and maintenance and damage easily at the > hub so what > is the correct torque? Hope to hear back from someone, Best regards, > Bill > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <harvey.rule(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RE: [cancercured] hemorrhaging 0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR
Message has HTTP redirector URI
Date: Aug 08, 2005
1.18 SUBJ_HAS_SPACES Subject contains lots of white space > My father-in-law had blood in his urine and it was from prostrate cancer which eventually let to cancer in the kidneys and then the lungs.He lasted for about 8 mo. from the time the bleeding started and I don't think there was anything they could do except ease the pain. > From: "gshaner2" <gshaner2(at)tampabay.rr.com> > Date: 2005/08/07 Sun PM 06:36:23 EST > To: > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: RE: [cancercured] hemorrhaging > 0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gshaner2" <gshaner2(at)tampabay.rr.com>
List-Id: List-Unsubscribe:
Date: Aug 08, 2005
Subject: RE: [cancercured] Essiac Tea
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI http://www.essiac-canada.com/ get the extract it will go down with ease From: pollynjim Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 1:53 PM Subject: [cancercured] Essiac Tea Joe, Where do you get your herbs for the essiac tea? Jim has been on essiac tea for several months, to no avail. We have been getting the Herbs from Gary Glum. Polly AIDS in India: A "lurking bomb." Click and help stop AIDS now. Are you digging your grave with your teeth? Read Hundreds of Collected Cancer Testimonials and learn: http://curezone.com/forums/fd50.asp?f=2 Learn more about cancer: http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/ http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/faq.asp You are receiving this email because you elected to subscribe to the cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com. To unsubscribe from this list, simply send blank e-mail message to: cancercured-nomail(at)yahoogroups.com To post message: cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com To subscribe: cancercured-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to digest: cancercured-digest(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to normal: cancercured-normal(at)yahoogroups.com By joining the list you agree to hold yourself FULLY responsible FOR yourself! List Archives: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/messages/ <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: cancercured-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gshaner2" <gshaner2(at)tampabay.rr.com>
List-Id: List-Unsubscribe:
Date: Aug 08, 2005
Subject: RE: [cancercured] update from Ecuador - cancer-free!!!
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI Of course no one can predict the future -if a remission will last - but we can take evasive action to insure our bodies can handle it if the cancer comes back. Keep your immune system up so that if it does return, your body can fight it. There are books and studies that a strong immune system can fight any disease. Also if you get sick, only take natural remedies to assist the body in fighting the cause. Congratulations Eve. Keep up the good spirits. They will go a long way. Joe, FL -----Christina wrote: I think that's fantastic and I hate to ask this but, how do you know it will last? C -----Eve Rosenbloom wrote: Hello group, Wanted to let you know that as of last Friday, I have zero cancer frequency. The cancer that was in my breast, liver, bones and lymph is gone. I am convinced that frequency medicine is very powerful, and along with H202 IVs makes for a successful method of getting your immune system back on track and eliminating the frequencies of disease. Anyone interested in knowing more should contact Dr. Wickman directly - the healing I have seen going on in his clinic these last four weeks is amazing. www.doctor-cancer.com. I am here one more week for treatment to make sure everything is clear and then will return to the States. I plan to have a tumor marker test and will post the results. My last CA 15-3 was 150. Best to all on your healing paths. Eve Need Help? Get Help! Tools and Strategies for Healthy Drug-Free Living. Are you digging your grave with your teeth? Read Hundreds of Collected Cancer Testimonials and learn: http://curezone.com/forums/fd50.asp?f=2 Learn more about cancer: http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/ http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/faq.asp You are receiving this email because you elected to subscribe to the cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com. To unsubscribe from this list, simply send blank e-mail message to: cancercured-nomail(at)yahoogroups.com To post message: cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com To subscribe: cancercured-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to digest: cancercured-digest(at)yahoogroups.com To change status to normal: cancercured-normal(at)yahoogroups.com By joining the list you agree to hold yourself FULLY responsible FOR yourself! List Archives: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/messages/ <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: cancercured-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2005
From: Mike Fortunato <rsq2424(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RE: [cancercured] update from Ecuador - cancer-free!!!
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI I'm very happy for this person and hope they live a long, long life. But what does this have to do with Jabiru engines? Is this some other list that is crossing into this one? --- gshaner2 wrote: > > > Of course no one can predict the future -if a > remission will last - but we can take > evasive action to insure our bodies can handle it if > the cancer comes back. Keep your > immune system up so that if it does return, your > body can fight it. There are > books and studies that a strong immune system can > fight any disease. Also if > you get sick, only take natural remedies to assist > the body in fighting the > cause. Congratulations Eve. Keep up the good > spirits. They will go a long way. > > Joe, FL > > -----Christina wrote: > I think that's fantastic and I hate to ask this > but, how do you know it > will last? > C > > -----Eve Rosenbloom wrote: > Hello group, > Wanted to let you know that as of last Friday, I > have zero cancer > frequency. > The cancer that was in my breast, liver, bones and > lymph is gone. I am > convinced that frequency medicine is very > powerful, and along with H202 > IVs > makes for a successful method of getting your > immune system back on track > and eliminating the frequencies of disease. > > Anyone interested in knowing more should contact > Dr. Wickman directly - > the > healing I have seen going on in his clinic these > last four weeks is > amazing. > www.doctor-cancer.com. > > I am here one more week for treatment to make sure > everything is clear and > then will return to the States. I plan to have a > tumor marker test and > will > post the results. My last CA 15-3 was 150. > > Best to all on your healing paths. Eve > > > Need Help? Get Help! > Tools and Strategies for Healthy Drug-Free Living. > > Are you digging your grave with your teeth? > Read Hundreds of Collected Cancer Testimonials and > learn: > http://curezone.com/forums/fd50.asp?f=2 > > Learn more about cancer: > http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/ > http://curezone.com/diseases/cancer/faq.asp > > You are receiving this email because you elected to > subscribe to the cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com. To > unsubscribe from this list, simply send blank e-mail > message to: cancercured-nomail(at)yahoogroups.com > To post message: cancercured(at)yahoogroups.com > To subscribe: cancercured-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com > To change status to digest: > cancercured-digest(at)yahoogroups.com > To change status to normal: > cancercured-normal(at)yahoogroups.com > By joining the list you agree to hold yourself FULLY > responsible FOR yourself! > > List Archives: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/messages/ > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cancercured/ > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email > to: > cancercured-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2005
From: Bill Smith <ocleju(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Alternative Engines - Geo/Suzuki
Alternative Engines - Geo/Suzuki If you are interested in alternative engines for experimental aircraft you are invited to join the flyGeo_uncensored group and learn about the fantastic Geo/Suzuki engines used in aircraft. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyGeo_uncensored Both bolt on gearbox and cog belt redrives and all other aircraft conversion parts are available for very reasonable cost. Turbo versions are available also. Gearbox type redrives for around US$1750- The Geo/Suzuki engine uses about half the fuel that the two stroke engines use. The 1.3 litre four cylinder Suzuki engine beats the Rotax 912 in power and weight, again both gearbox and belt type redrives are available. The Geo/Suzuki one litre engine weighs a little more than a Rotax 582, it produces 62 HP normally aspirated but with a better, flatter torque curve. All those advantages plus flying engines with the hours up to prove them and last but not lease, far, far cheaper than a Rotax two or four stroke engine. One person on the group has over 1000 hours on one installation. FlyGeo_uncensored is a very active and helpful group that is also a fun group and is not doubt one of the fastest growing aircraft alternative engine groups. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyGeo_uncensored The FlyGeo_uncensored Management ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Krotje" <pkrotje(at)athenet.net>
Subject: Alternative Engines - Geo/Suzuki
Date: Aug 09, 2005
Bill, I consider it poor form to advertise for Geo sales on the Jabiru discussion list. We don't solicit business on the Geo Site. Please keep your posts to Jabiru related issues and solicit your Geo business elsewhere Pete Krotje Jabiru USA -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Smith Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Alternative Engines - Geo/Suzuki Alternative Engines - Geo/Suzuki If you are interested in alternative engines for experimental aircraft you are invited to join the flyGeo_uncensored group and learn about the fantastic Geo/Suzuki engines used in aircraft. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyGeo_uncensored Both bolt on gearbox and cog belt redrives and all other aircraft conversion parts are available for very reasonable cost. Turbo versions are available also. Gearbox type redrives for around US$1750- The Geo/Suzuki engine uses about half the fuel that the two stroke engines use. The 1.3 litre four cylinder Suzuki engine beats the Rotax 912 in power and weight, again both gearbox and belt type redrives are available. The Geo/Suzuki one litre engine weighs a little more than a Rotax 582, it produces 62 HP normally aspirated but with a better, flatter torque curve. All those advantages plus flying engines with the hours up to prove them and last but not lease, far, far cheaper than a Rotax two or four stroke engine. One person on the group has over 1000 hours on one installation. FlyGeo_uncensored is a very active and helpful group that is also a fun group and is not doubt one of the fastest growing aircraft alternative engine groups. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyGeo_uncensored The FlyGeo_uncensored Management ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Melissa Jan Hays" <neillhays(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: I am looking for information on using Noni Juice for
acute leukemia
Date: Aug 23, 2005
Does anyone have testimony of using Morinda's Tahitian Noni Juice for acute leukemia? I have a friend whose mother has acute leukemia and she is not doing well. Sincerely, Jan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 05, 2005
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-3300
Jab Friends, The rubber hose replacement for the 3300 FWF kit for the 601 XL is the Gates 21194 sold at O'Reliey's, but you could probably get one anywhere. Hope that helps others that are having the rough engine blues, best regards, Bill of Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics Web Server Upgrade Today Tuesday 09/06/05
Dear Listers, I will be taking the Matronics Web Server down for a few hours today, Tuesday September 6 2005 for a chassis upgrade. Archive browsing and searching along with subscription services will be unavailable for be processed normally during the upgrade. Please check the Matronics System Status Page for updates (although this page resides on the web server and won't be available during the upgrade): http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/ Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CGRocco(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 22, 2005
Subject: Re: He Said, She Said...
STOP SENDING THIS LIST ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
Date: Dec 16, 2005
on the list maintenant profiter de tous les avantages de MSN Premium et obtenez les deux premiers mois GRATUITS*. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums!
Dear Listers, I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available for all of the Email Lists at Matronics! This is a full-featured system that allows for viewing, posting, attachments, polls - the works. But the best part is that it is *completely* integrated with all of the existing email tools currently available at Matronics! What this means at the most basic level is that, if you post a message to List from Email in the traditional way, it will show up on the BBS system *and* get distributed to everyone currently subscribed to the Email List. By the same token, if you are on the BBS and post a message to a given List-Forum, the message will not only show up on the BBS, but also be distributed to everyone on the Email List!! It is really a very nice implementation and I am very pleased with its operation. All of the tools you have come to know and love such as the List Search Engine and List Browse and Download will still be available and contain all of the latest posts. Think of the new BBS interface as just another method of accessing the all of the Lists. You can use the BBS to view all of the latest posts without having to do anything except use your browser to surf over to the site. You can view and look at all of the various List's posts. If you want to post a new message or reply to an existing message from the BBS, you will have to Register on the BBS. This is a *very* simple process and will only take a couple of minutes. There is a small icon in the upper righthand side of the main BBS page labeled "Register" to get you started. I strongly recommend that you use the exact *same* email address you are subscribed to the Email Lists with when registering on the BBS. Also, while not an absolute requirement, I would really appreciate it if people would use their full name when choosing their Username on the BBS (for example "Matt Dralle"). This just makes it easier for everyone to know who's posting. Also, I have enabled the ability to upload a small user picture with your profile called an "avatar". Please use a *real* picture of yourself *with* your cloths on! Thank you! Maximum size of the bitmap is 120x120. You can either be subscribed to the BBS, or any number of Email Lists, or both. Registering on the BBS will allow you to email directly to all of the various Lists. However, to receive direct List Email, you will need to be *subscribed* to the various Lists as you have in the past. No changes here in operation. I have added numerous links on the BBS pointing to the Email List subscription page. I've had the BBS connected to the Lists for about a week now, so its already loaded up with a fair number of messages. You can post photos and other documents directly to the BBS and links to them will appear in the List Email distributions. Also, when any messages posted to the BBS are viewed in the List Email distribution, there will be a URL link at the bottom of the message pointing back to the BBS. And here's what you've been waiting for -- the main URL for the new Matronics Email List BBS is: http://forums.matronics.com Please surf on over, Register, and have a great time! I think this will be the dawn of a whole new era for the Lists at Matronics! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Welcome to the Jabiru Engines New-Look Forum!
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Date: Jan 10, 2006
First, thanks to Matt Dralle at Matronics for improving the look of the forum in this new style. I'm sure it's a great improvement and will allow us to communicate much better than the old 'just-text' format. here we can post pictures much easier and keep track of message threads better than before. Feel free to post your comments and questions - we're here to help with all-things Jabiru! Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes Inc www.suncoastjabiru.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2681#2681 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/6000_1_188.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 11, 2006
Subject: Re: Welcome to the Jabiru Engines New-Look Forum!
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Andy- I have a question....why do folks not use the JabiruEngine-List? I subscribed to it when I got my engine back in August or so, and there has been little to no activity there. In fact, I asked this question, and was told that everybody "hangs out" at the Yahoo Jab engine group. This is where I currently get my info, but prefer to receive it via email, rather than go to the web. I even emailed Matt Dralle asking him why the lack of activity and he prompted me to talk it up on the Yahoo Jab engine group and tray to get all you folks over to the JabiruEngine-List. I didn't feel comfortable doing this, being a newcomer (and not wanting Yahoo to come banging on my door : ) ), but now this is a perfect opportunity. I like the Matronics email system much better, if for no better reason than the lack of about a mile of "header" information (with Yahoo) before you even get to read what the poster has posted. Also, will this be read by only those folks on the Matronics List or will it go to Yahoo as well? Lynn On Tuesday, January 10, 2006, at 07:45 PM, Andy Silvester wrote: > > > First, thanks to Matt Dralle at Matronics for improving the look of > the forum in this new style. I'm sure it's a great improvement and > will allow us to communicate much better than the old 'just-text' > format. here we can post pictures much easier and keep track of > message threads better than before. > > Feel free to post your comments and questions - we're here to help > with all-things Jabiru! > > Andy Silvester > Suncoast Sportplanes Inc > www.suncoastjabiru.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2681#2681 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/6000_1_188.jpg > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Tomlin" <ThomasTomlin(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Jabiru alternator noise
Date: Jan 13, 2006
Okay, I'll start a thread here. I also elected to not be on the yahoo group so here goes. I have a Kitfox Speedster with the Jabiru 3300 and a new Sensenich ground adjustable prop. Currently I am hearing what appears to be alternator noise coming through my headset and it is also being transmitted when I key the mike. I have a capacitor on the output from the alternator and recently went to a newer one from the Aeroelectrics supplier. The noise is a high pitched whine at cruise rpm and the pitch changes up or down with the throttle setting. It is also only heard when pressing the PTT switch. I have an alternator cut off switch and can turn off the alternator which eliminates the noise when transmitting. My headphone, PTT, and battery cables run parallel for about 3 feed, as my battery and headphone jacks are behind me I was hoping for an easier fix than rerouting the headphone/PTT wiring from behind me, and back up to the panel. Any thoughts? Tom Tomlin Kitfox IV Greeley Colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2006
Subject: Re: Jabiru alternator noise
From: Ray Montagne <r_montagne(at)mac.com>
On 1/13/06 5:42 PM, "Tom Tomlin" wrote: Hi Tom, My comments below: > > > Okay, I'll start a thread here. > I also elected to not be on the yahoo group so here goes. > > I have a Kitfox Speedster with the Jabiru 3300 and a new Sensenich ground > adjustable prop. > > Currently I am hearing what appears to be alternator noise coming through my > headset and > it is also being transmitted when I key the mike. > > I have a capacitor on the output from the alternator and recently went to a > newer one from > the Aeroelectrics supplier. > > The noise is a high pitched whine at cruise rpm and the pitch changes up or > down > with the throttle setting. It is also only heard when pressing the PTT > switch. > A high pitch wine that tracks RPM is indicative of alternator/generator noise. When you key the transmitter you are increasing the load on the electrical system. A simple capacitor may not be adequate. An 'L' network filter may be required. The 'L' is constructed by having an inductor between the electrical source (alternator/generator) and the load (radios/avionics) in combination with the capacitor between ground and the load end of the inductor. The purpose of the inductor is to provide a high impedance (i.e. Resistance) to high frequencies (i.e. The A.C. Noise being carried on your D.C. System in this instance) while the capacitor presents a low impedance to the high frequency noise. In essence this is a voltage divider where the inductor has very low resistance at D.C. While the capacitor has high (infinite) resistance at D.C. While the noise sees the high resistance of the inductor at A.C. And low resistance of the capacitor. The result is that the D.C. Passes through the 'L' network with little or now attenuation while the A.C. Passes through the 'L' network with a great deal of attenuation. If you only have a capacitor installed then the inductor is presenting very low impedance/resistance at both D.C. And A.C. This results in very little attenuation of the A.C. Component. 'L' networks are sold for a variety of applications ranging from car stereos to avionics/amateur radio equipment, etc. The trick is getting an 'L' network that is appropriately designed for the electrical load as you don't want the inductor to generate a voltage drop under D.C. Load (which may create a whole different set of issues). I'd recommend installation of an 'L' network and checking that the ground strapping is of good quality and sufficiently large for the task. Best regards, Ray Montagne Cupertino, CA > I have an alternator cut off switch and can turn off the alternator which > eliminates the noise > when transmitting. > > My headphone, PTT, and battery cables run parallel for about 3 feed, as my > battery and headphone > jacks are behind me > > I was hoping for an easier fix than rerouting the headphone/PTT wiring from > behind me, and back up > to the panel. > > Any thoughts? > > Tom Tomlin > Kitfox IV > Greeley Colorado > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2006
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Cold weather starting and starter current
At last week=92s Sebring Sport Aviation Expo, we endured a couple of very un-seasonably cold (for Florida!) mornings, and one or two of the many Jabiru-powered aircraft there were reporting cold-starting issues. All were eventually traced and fixed, but it=92s probably a good time to remind owners of the need for good connections and a low-resistance path for the starter current. Unlike other aircraft engines where the impulse-magneto retards the ignition for starting, the Jabiru has fixed-ignition so needs to be spun quickly to energize the ignition units (coils) for a reliable spark. Colder conditions will mean thicker oil (more engine friction), the fuel doesn=92t vaporize as readily in the carburetor and the battery=92s ability to deliver the necessary starter power is diminished. If the installation also has some short-comings, it can (and does) mean the difference between a good start and no-start at all. Here=92s some pointers, with apologies to those who already know this stuff: 1. On the initial turn-of-the key or press-of-the-button the starter will take almost 700 Amps from the battery. Once the engine is spinning on the starter, (i.e. after about 1 rev of the crank) the current drops to about 400 Amps. We recommend the Odyssey PC625 battery because it has a high level of CCA (cold cranking amps=3D625). Not many other types of battery will do this for the same size and weight. The thick orange cable attached to the starter is the right gauge to carry this starter current; if your ground / return from the engine to the battery is less diameter than this orange cable you will restrict the current when starting. For this reason, we carry this cable by the foot in our store as well as the appropriate swage-or-solder-on lugs. The connections of this starter and ground circuit are equally important; if the engine won=92t start after spinning it over, isolate the ignition and feel by hand the various connections at the battery / starter solenoid and the ground connection. If there is heat in a joint it needs either tightening or re-making. In the later Denso (silver) starter, any lack of tightness in the two retaining bolts means a poor ground-return. I admit I hadn=92t spotted this until last weekend; the starter has rubber seals between each of its major parts so it is clear that the bolts which secure it to the engine=92s backplate are carrying a large proportion of the starter current. Check tightness or even add an additional grounding strap from the starter=92s free-end to the engine mount plate. 2. Other ignition-related cold-starting issues are pretty well-known: check for spurious grounding of the ignition =91stop=92 leads (some call them P leads); both Pete and I have experienced issues with faulty ACS ignition switches. I remember stripping, cleaning and rebuilding one (watch for flying springs and contacts!) and solved the problem but they are not perfect. If you suspect the switch or leads to the coils, disconnect the leads at the coils and try restarting. If it starts OK, you know where to look but be prepared to stop the engine with the fuel shut-off! Spark plugs rarely give problems if gapped (0.022=94 =96 0.024=94) if they are un-fouled with lead and haven=92t previously been blasted-clean. Don=92t clean plugs, replace them. NGK=92s iridium DR9EIX gives longer life and (I=92m told by Jabiru) smoother running and response but I=92ve yet to try them. Coil gap with flywheel (magnet pole-faces) should be 0.010 but rarely needs adjusting unless disturbed. Condensation or carbon-dust from the central button inside the distributor cap(s) will cause ignition issues but fairly rarely. Change caps and rotors at 250 hours max. Spark plug leads last very well unless exposed to the elements as per an un-cowled installation (pusher, etc) or allowed to rub-thro=92 on the engine, so check them for cracking and/ or rubbing every 50-hours. 3. Fuel supply: the =91enrichening=92 or choke circuit in the carby won=92t work unless the throttle is closed fully. A high idle speed set by the throttle-stop screw has been known to hold-off the choke. The enrichener gets its fuel from the brass dip-tube which pulls fuel from a tiny jet at the bottom of its tube in the float-bowl. This jet can get clogged by debris or more likely the presence of water in the bowl which corrodes the aluminum and bits clog the jet. When you have the float bowl off, try blowing down the tube in the corner of the float bowl to check the jet. If you prefer a primer (I can see why you might!) use the nipple on the bottom of the carby next to the idle mixture adjusting screw; remove the blanking screw and attach the primer line. The idle-mixture air screw should be about 1 turn open. Richen the idle mixture by screwing it in, lean by opening. Adjust by no more than =BC turn at a time. Old fuel in the tank has lost some of its =91go=92 so try to ensure in cold weather you have a good fresh supply of gas. Avgas at 100 octane will start better in the cold than the same-age car-gas at 90-something. Give the engine a fighting chance by pulling the prop. through a few blades with the throttle closed, choke on and fuel boost pump on and switches OFF. This helps to reduce the friction in the engine and induces some fuel/air into cylinders. Especially when you might be frustrated and thinking hard about why your engine isn=92t starting BE SAFE and respect the propeller as if it=92s live unless you know for sure it isn=92t. Above all, don=92t keep spinning the engine on the starter hoping it will eventually fire; with a Jabiru, if it=92s not going in a couple of revs, then you=92re only adding to the problem by having a dead battery. Hope this helps, Andy Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 39248 South Ave. Zephyrhills, FL 33542 Tel: 813 779 2324 Fax: 813 779 2246 www.suncoastjabiru.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Welcome to the Jabiru Engines New-Look Forum!
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Date: Jan 17, 2006
Lynn, I emailed you direct but now that this Matronics forum has a better interface and features I think there will be many more join the list. Andy Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4783#4783 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2006
Subject: Re: Welcome to the Jabiru Engines New-Look Forum!
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Yes, Andy, I got that...it'll be interesting to see how this will work out. Lynn On Tuesday, January 17, 2006, at 05:32 PM, Andy Silvester wrote: > > > Lynn, > > I emailed you direct but now that this Matronics forum has a better > interface and features I think there will be many more join the list. > > Andy > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4783#4783 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting and starter current
From: "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Jan 18, 2006
Andy, Some of the formatting didn't come through quite right in your message. Looks like apostrophes, quotation marks, and I am guessing greater than/less than didn't get translated. Since this is information I plan to put into my "saved" file, can you repost with these items cleaned up? Thanks, Michael Crowder Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4950#4950 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting and starter current
From: "lgingell" <lgingell@matrix-logic.com>
Date: Jan 19, 2006
The =92 and =91 are replacements for the " marks (quotes). I suspect Andy composed this in Microsoft Word, and pasted it in. Word (and many other applications) take the straight quotes " and turn them into 66's and 99's to make it "proper". There's a few other ones in there that I couldn't guess! Cheers, ..lance -------- Zodiac XL/Jab 3300 http://lancegingell.com/plane.asp Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5266#5266 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting and starter current
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Date: Jan 19, 2006
Sorry about the spurious characters; I must make sure to compose the message here and not in Word in future! Here's (hopefully) the cleaned-up version (I can't get the line lengths consistent!): At last week's Sebring Sport Aviation Expo, we endured a couple of very un-seasonably cold (for Florida!) mornings, and one or two of the many Jabiru-powered aircraft there were reporting cold-starting issues. All were eventually traced and fixed, but its probably a good time to remind owners of the need for good connections and a low-resistance path for the starter current. Unlike other aircraft engines where the impulse-magneto retards the ignition for starting, the Jabiru has fixed-ignition so needs to be spun quickly to energize the ignition units (coils) for a reliable spark. Colder conditions will mean thicker oil (more engine friction), the fuel doesn't vaporize as readily in the carburetor and the battery's ability to deliver the necessary starter power is diminished. If the installation also has some short-comings, it can (and does) mean the difference between a good start and no-start at all. Here's some pointers, with apologies to those who already know this stuff: 1. On the initial turn-of-the key or press-of-the-button the starter will take almost 700 Amps from the battery. Once the engine is spinning on the starter, (i.e. after about 1 rev of the crank) the current drops to about 400 Amps. We recommend the Odyssey PC625 battery because it has a high level of CCA (cold cranking amps=625). Not many other types of battery will do this for the same size and weight. The thick orange cable attached to the starter is the right gauge to carry this starter current; if your ground / return from the engine to the battery is less diameter than this orange cable you will restrict the current when starting. For this reason, we carry this cable by the foot in our store as well as the appropriate swage-or-solder-on lugs. The connections of this starter and ground circuit are equally important; if the engine won't start after spinning it over, isolate the ignition and feel by hand the various connections at the battery / starter solenoid and the ground connection. If there is heat in a joint it needs either tightening or re-making. In the later Denso (silver) starter, any lack of tightness in the two retaining bolts means a poor ground-return. I admit I hadn't spotted this until last weekend; the starter has rubber seals between each of its major parts so it is clear that the bolts which secure it to the engine's backplate are carrying a large proportion of the starter current. Check tightness or even add an additional grounding strap from the starter's free-end to the engine mount plate. 2. Other ignition-related cold-starting issues are pretty well-known: check for spurious grounding of the ignition 'stop' leads (some call them P leads); both Pete and I have experienced issues with faulty ACS ignition switches. I remember stripping, cleaning and rebuilding one (watch for flying springs and contacts!) and solved the problem but they are not perfect. If you suspect the switch or leads to the coils, disconnect the leads at the coils and try restarting. If it starts OK, you know where to look but be prepared to stop the engine with the fuel shut-off! Spark plugs rarely give problems if gapped (0.022" - 0.024") if they are un-fouled with lead and haven't previously been blasted-clean. Don't clean plugs, replace them. NGK's iridium DR9EIX gives longer life and (I'm told by Jabiru) smoother running and response but I've yet to try them. Coil gap with flywheel (magnet pole-faces) should be 0.010 but rarely needs adjusting unless disturbed. Condensation or carbon-dust from the central button inside the distributor cap(s) will cause ignition issues but fairly rarely. Change caps and rotors at 250 hours max. Spark plug leads last very well unless exposed to the elements as per an un-cowled installation (pusher, etc) or allowed to rub-thro' on the engine, so check them for cracking and/ or rubbing every 50-hours. 3. Fuel supply: the 'enrichening' or choke circuit in the carby won't work unless the throttle is closed fully. A high idle speed set by the throttle-stop screw has been known to hold-off the choke. The enrichener gets its fuel from the brass dip-tube which pulls fuel from a tiny jet at the bottom of its tube in the float-bowl. This jet can get clogged by debris or more likely the presence of water in the bowl which corrodes the aluminum and bits clog the jet. When you have the float bowl off, try blowing down the tube in the corner of the float bowl to check the jet. If you prefer a primer (I can see why you might!) use the nipple on the bottom of the carby next to the idle mixture adjusting screw; remove the blanking screw and attach the primer line. The idle-mixture air screw should be about 1 turn open. Richen the idle mixture by screwing it out, lean by closing. Adjust by no more than 1/4 turn at a time. Old fuel in the tank has lost some of its 'go' so try to ensure in cold weather you have a good fresh supply of gas. Avgas at 100 octane will start better in the cold than the same-age car-gas at 90-something. Give the engine a fighting chance by pulling the prop. through a few blades with the throttle closed, choke on and fuel boost pump on and switches OFF. This helps to reduce the friction in the engine and induces some fuel/air into cylinders. Especially when you might be frustrated and thinking hard about why your engine isn't starting BE SAFE and respect the propeller as if it's live unless you know for sure it isn't. Above all, don't keep spinning the engine on the starter hoping it will eventually fire; with a Jabiru, if its not going in a couple of revs, then you're only adding to the problem by having a dead battery. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5277#5277 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2006
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting and starter current
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Andy, when you originally sent this, on Jan 17, I got it perfectly. But there was a second posting that came through with the goofy punctuation marks (a neighbor who saw it said it was HTML encoded). Has this anything to do with the Matronics vs. Yahoo thing? Lynn On Thursday, January 19, 2006, at 01:10 PM, Andy Silvester wrote: > > > Sorry about the spurious characters; I must make sure to compose the > message here and not in Word in future! Here's (hopefully) the > cleaned-up version (I can't get the line lengths consistent!): > (original deleted by Lynn to save space) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Six New Email Lists / Forums At Matronics!
Dear Listers, Its my pleasure to announce the addition of six new Email List / Forums to the aviation line up at Matronics! These new lists support all the usual features you've come to know and love from the Matronics Email List including full integration with the All New Web BBS Forums Site!! The new Lists include: LycomingEngines-List Textron/Lycoming Engines RotaxEngines-List Rotax Engine for Aircraft M14PEngines-List Vendenyev M14P Radial Engine MurphyMoose-List Murphy Moose Aircraft Allegro-List Allegro 2000, a Czech-built, Rotax-powered Aircraft Falco-List Sequoia Aircraft's Falco Experimental To sign up for any or all of the new Lists, surf over to the Matronics Email List Subscription Form and follow the instructions: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Don't forget to check out the All New Web BBS Forum now available along with all of the usual message and archive viewing tools at the Matronics Email Lists site. Surf over to the following URL for information on the BBS Forum: http://forums.matronics.com Enjoy the new Lists! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Sun N Fun April 4th - 10th
For those attending this year's show in Lakeland, Florida please note we'll be running "Jabiru Engines - Installation and Maintenance" forums (or is it Fora?) on the following days and times: Tuesday 11am, Wednesday 10am, Thursday 9am, Saturday 9am and Sunday 11am. Further details will be posted at our booth LD02. We'll also be holding a get-together for Jabiru Owners, soon-to-be Owners and wanna-be-Owners at the booth on the Friday from 5pm until dark, when the night-airshow starts. Free refreshments and buffet-style food provided. Please get tickets at the booth (it helps us to plan) if you intend to come to the party. Andy Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. www.suncoastjabiru.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon" <jonh(at)flinthills.com>
Subject: engine monitor problem
Date: Mar 12, 2006
Hello group, I am working on a Zenith 601 XL with a Jabiru 3300 engine. We have installed an Electronics International MVP-50 engine monitor system. Unfortunately, the system is not functioning properly. Here are some symptoms: 1. When the engine is not running, everything seems to work properly. 2. When the engine is running, we see the following: A. RPM value on display looks good B. All values on the display associated with temperature (EGT, CHT, carb temp, oil temp) read very high and fluctuate fairly frequently C. All other values (volts, amps, oil press, fuel press, fuel flow, fuel level) seem to read accurately most of the time except they fluctuate regularly D. Error code "EDC" sometimes appears on various readouts (which EI says means the sensor hook-up box is sending nonsense to the display box) 3. The comm. radio seems to work fine with the engine running, and there is no appreciable noise. 4. Engine runs great and shows no magneto/firing problems. I have talked to EI, Jabiru, local electronics experts, and Bob. I ran the sensor wires as far from the "loud" wires as I could in front of the firewall. We tried running engine with one alternator wire (of two) completely disconnected. This had no effect. We installed a torroidal filter in the regulator output wire; this had no effect. EI rebuilt the EDC-33P sensor hook-up box, and this had no effect. We are contemplating having them rebuild the display box. EI wants me to find an electromagnetic radiation intensity meter and take readings. Can anyone shed some light on this problem? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2006
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: engine monitor problem
Jon, I know it's not very helpful to have someone reply with "I have no idea" but at least you know the message was read! We use other engine monitors like the Grand Rapids technologies EIS, Dynon, Stratomaster, etc., and they all work fine if configured properly. This means that I don't believe there is anything out-of-spec. with the engine producing RF interference. I'm thinking it's the EI main unit not having as good a noise rejection capability as other monitors. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Andy Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 2:39 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: engine monitor problem Hello group, I am working on a Zenith 601 XL with a Jabiru 3300 engine. We have installed an Electronics International MVP-50 engine monitor system. Unfortunately, the system is not functioning properly. Here are some symptoms: 1. When the engine is not running, everything seems to work properly. 2. When the engine is running, we see the following: A. RPM value on display looks good B. All values on the display associated with temperature (EGT, CHT, carb temp, oil temp) read very high and fluctuate fairly frequently C. All other values (volts, amps, oil press, fuel press, fuel flow, fuel level) seem to read accurately most of the time except they fluctuate regularly D. Error code "EDC" sometimes appears on various readouts (which EI says means the sensor hook-up box is sending nonsense to the display box) 3. The comm. radio seems to work fine with the engine running, and there is no appreciable noise. 4. Engine runs great and shows no magneto/firing problems. I have talked to EI, Jabiru, local electronics experts, and Bob. I ran the sensor wires as far from the "loud" wires as I could in front of the firewall. We tried running engine with one alternator wire (of two) completely disconnected. This had no effect. We installed a torroidal filter in the regulator output wire; this had no effect. EI rebuilt the EDC-33P sensor hook-up box, and this had no effect. We are contemplating having them rebuild the display box. EI wants me to find an electromagnetic radiation intensity meter and take readings. Can anyone shed some light on this problem? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon" <jonh(at)flinthills.com>
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
Date: Mar 12, 2006
Andy, Thanks for your interest. Maybe this is just one of those unpleasant learning experiences where we have to give up and try a different product. Jon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 2:02 PM Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: engine monitor problem > > > Jon, > > I know it's not very helpful to have someone reply with "I have no idea" > but > at least you know the message was read! > > We use other engine monitors like the Grand Rapids technologies EIS, > Dynon, > Stratomaster, etc., and they all work fine if configured properly. This > means that I don't believe there is anything out-of-spec. with the engine > producing RF interference. I'm thinking it's the EI main unit not having > as > good a noise rejection capability as other monitors. > > Sorry I can't be more helpful. > > Andy > > Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. > www.suncoastjabiru.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon > Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 2:39 PM > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: engine monitor problem > > > Hello group, > > I am working on a Zenith 601 XL with a Jabiru 3300 engine. We have > installed an Electronics International MVP-50 engine monitor system. > Unfortunately, the system is not functioning properly. Here are some > symptoms: > > 1. When the engine is not running, everything seems to work properly. > > 2. When the engine is running, we see the following: > A. RPM value on display looks good > B. All values on the display associated with temperature (EGT, CHT, > carb > temp, oil temp) read very high and fluctuate fairly frequently > C. All other values (volts, amps, oil press, fuel press, fuel flow, > fuel > level) seem to read accurately most of the time except they fluctuate > regularly > D. Error code "EDC" sometimes appears on various readouts (which EI > says > means the sensor hook-up box is sending nonsense to the display box) > > 3. The comm. radio seems to work fine with the engine running, and there > is > no appreciable noise. > > 4. Engine runs great and shows no magneto/firing problems. > > I have talked to EI, Jabiru, local electronics experts, and Bob. I ran > the > sensor wires as far from the "loud" wires as I could in front of the > firewall. We tried running engine with one alternator wire (of two) > completely disconnected. This had no effect. We installed a torroidal > filter in the regulator output wire; this had no effect. EI rebuilt the > EDC-33P sensor hook-up box, and this had no effect. We are contemplating > having them rebuild the display box. EI wants me to find an > electromagnetic > radiation intensity meter and take readings. > > Can anyone shed some light on this problem? > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 13, 2006
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
Any chance your strobes are effecting it ? Maybe you should us shielded wire. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Krotje" <pkrotje(at)athenet.net>
Subject: engine monitor problem
Date: Mar 13, 2006
Jon, Try totally disconnecting the regulator. Let the engine run and all avionics power come from the battery with no charging input from the alternator and no chance of noise from the regulator. You may not get a tach input with the alt disconnected but if regulator or alternator noise was the problem the rest of the sensors should work right. Let us know if it makes any difference. It sure looks like it is EI's problem, though. Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 1:39 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: engine monitor problem Hello group, I am working on a Zenith 601 XL with a Jabiru 3300 engine. We have installed an Electronics International MVP-50 engine monitor system. Unfortunately, the system is not functioning properly. Here are some symptoms: 1. When the engine is not running, everything seems to work properly. 2. When the engine is running, we see the following: A. RPM value on display looks good B. All values on the display associated with temperature (EGT, CHT, carb temp, oil temp) read very high and fluctuate fairly frequently C. All other values (volts, amps, oil press, fuel press, fuel flow, fuel level) seem to read accurately most of the time except they fluctuate regularly D. Error code "EDC" sometimes appears on various readouts (which EI says means the sensor hook-up box is sending nonsense to the display box) 3. The comm. radio seems to work fine with the engine running, and there is no appreciable noise. 4. Engine runs great and shows no magneto/firing problems. I have talked to EI, Jabiru, local electronics experts, and Bob. I ran the sensor wires as far from the "loud" wires as I could in front of the firewall. We tried running engine with one alternator wire (of two) completely disconnected. This had no effect. We installed a torroidal filter in the regulator output wire; this had no effect. EI rebuilt the EDC-33P sensor hook-up box, and this had no effect. We are contemplating having them rebuild the display box. EI wants me to find an electromagnetic radiation intensity meter and take readings. Can anyone shed some light on this problem? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon" <jonh(at)flinthills.com>
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
Date: Mar 13, 2006
Thanks for your response. The strobes have been off during all our tests. I mounted the strobe power supply box under the seat, so I don't think I will have a problem. I suppose we'll have to run that test after we fix this problem to verify proper function. ----- Original Message ----- From: <JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 8:20 AM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: engine monitor problem > > Any chance your strobes are effecting it ? Maybe you should us shielded > wire. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon" <jonh(at)flinthills.com>
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
Date: Mar 13, 2006
Thanks for your response. So you're saying I might be getting noise from the regulator even if the alternator is disconnected? I'll try that test tomorrow. I talked to Bob N. on the phone today, and he had me run a test with the P-leads disconnected at the mags. This didn't help. He wants me to run the MVP system off of a different battery all together. One thing I haven't mentioned before is that we installed an EXP cockpit power control unit. [I noticed that Bob is not fond of these things while reading one of his archived debates.] It has an integral switch panel , master relay, and solid-state breakers. Is it possible that this gadget is somehow misbehaving in a way that would not show up on an oscilloscope? We put an oscilloscope on the power wire to the MVP system about 2 weeks ago with the alternator hooked up. It seemed to indicate that we were getting constant 12.4 volts, and that the AC portion of the power input was about 24mV at a frequency corresponding to 12 times the engine RPM. This made sense to me since the alternator has 12 spinning coils. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pete Krotje" <pkrotje(at)athenet.net> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 8:24 AM Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: engine monitor problem > > > Jon, > > Try totally disconnecting the regulator. Let the engine run and all > avionics power come from the battery with no charging input from the > alternator and no chance of noise from the regulator. You may not get a > tach input with the alt disconnected but if regulator or alternator noise > was the problem the rest of the sensors should work right. > > Let us know if it makes any difference. It sure looks like it is EI's > problem, though. > > Pete > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon > Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 1:39 PM > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: engine monitor problem > > > Hello group, > > I am working on a Zenith 601 XL with a Jabiru 3300 engine. We have > installed an Electronics International MVP-50 engine monitor system. > Unfortunately, the system is not functioning properly. Here are some > symptoms: > > 1. When the engine is not running, everything seems to work properly. > > 2. When the engine is running, we see the following: > A. RPM value on display looks good > B. All values on the display associated with temperature (EGT, CHT, > carb > temp, oil temp) read very high and fluctuate fairly frequently > C. All other values (volts, amps, oil press, fuel press, fuel flow, > fuel > level) seem to read accurately most of the time except they fluctuate > regularly > D. Error code "EDC" sometimes appears on various readouts (which EI > says > means the sensor hook-up box is sending nonsense to the display box) > > 3. The comm. radio seems to work fine with the engine running, and there > is > no appreciable noise. > > 4. Engine runs great and shows no magneto/firing problems. > > I have talked to EI, Jabiru, local electronics experts, and Bob. I ran > the > sensor wires as far from the "loud" wires as I could in front of the > firewall. We tried running engine with one alternator wire (of two) > completely disconnected. This had no effect. We installed a torroidal > filter in the regulator output wire; this had no effect. EI rebuilt the > EDC-33P sensor hook-up box, and this had no effect. We are contemplating > having them rebuild the display box. EI wants me to find an > electromagnetic > radiation intensity meter and take readings. > > Can anyone shed some light on this problem? > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ram Air Duct Installation
From: "TucsonCol" <bnoon12(at)comcast.net>
Date: Mar 14, 2006
I have been looking and and talking to several people about installing the Ram air ducts and it seem simple enough until I get ready to actually put them on. Here are the steps that I am having problems with. 1. There are 4 angle brackets that apparently rest on top of the cylinders without anything between them and the cylinder fins. (Is that correct?) There are two little holes in the brackets, how are the wires connected to it and held down. 2. The pictures/illustrations in the instructions show a wire going around the cylinder head but not through the brackets, and does it matter where the wire goes around the cylinder? 3. The pictures/illustrations also show the wire twisted and the spring somehow connected to the wire wrapped around the cylinder. Where is it connected and should there be play in the wire? 4. The spring that holds down the ram duct connects to the ram duct somewhere, but I have no idea if there should be one point of attachment. Does anyone have a good set of instructions or some pictures that show how it all goes together. It probably is obvious once seen, but I would like to see how someone else has it done. Anyone? thanks in advance -------- Tucson, AZ Thorp T-211 Connect it how? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=21778#21778 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Duct Installation
Date: Mar 14, 2006
I have been looking and and talking to several people about installing the Ram air ducts and it seem simple enough until I get ready to actually put them on. Here are the steps that I am having problems with. 1. There are 4 angle brackets that apparently rest on top of the cylinders without anything between them and the cylinder fins. (Is that correct?) +++ Yes. There are two little holes in the brackets, how are the wires connected to it and held down. +++ Thread safety wire through one hole, down under cylinder to other "butterfly" angle, then back under, up through, twist. 2. The pictures/illustrations in the instructions show a wire going around the cylinder head but not through the brackets, and does it matter where the wire goes around the cylinder? +++ Nope. 3. The pictures/illustrations also show the wire twisted and the spring somehow connected to the wire wrapped around the cylinder. Where is it connected and should there be play in the wire? +++ No play, you can forget the spring, didn't use it here. 4. The spring that holds down the ram duct connects to the ram duct somewhere, but I have no idea if there should be one point of attachment. +++ Attach a piece of safety wire in a large loose loop around center cylinder and use as per one of these photos. cheers jeff - these photos from my CH601 but the installation can't be that different. Does anyone have a good set of instructions or some pictures that show how it all goes together. It probably is obvious once seen, but I would like to see how someone else has it done. Anyone? thanks in advance ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Krotje" <pkrotje(at)athenet.net>
Subject: Ram Air Duct Installation
Date: Mar 14, 2006
Take a look at the Zenith FWF instructions found at www.usjabiru.com. Just get past the first page and on the second page click on Zenith FWF Kit. Open the "Fit Ram Air Cooling Ducts instructions. You may also find the "Connect Engine" instructions helpful. Another source for hints is the "Tech Tips" section of www.usjabiru.com Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TucsonCol Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 1:23 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Ram Air Duct Installation I have been looking and and talking to several people about installing the Ram air ducts and it seem simple enough until I get ready to actually put them on. Here are the steps that I am having problems with. 1. There are 4 angle brackets that apparently rest on top of the cylinders without anything between them and the cylinder fins. (Is that correct?) There are two little holes in the brackets, how are the wires connected to it and held down. 2. The pictures/illustrations in the instructions show a wire going around the cylinder head but not through the brackets, and does it matter where the wire goes around the cylinder? 3. The pictures/illustrations also show the wire twisted and the spring somehow connected to the wire wrapped around the cylinder. Where is it connected and should there be play in the wire? 4. The spring that holds down the ram duct connects to the ram duct somewhere, but I have no idea if there should be one point of attachment. Does anyone have a good set of instructions or some pictures that show how it all goes together. It probably is obvious once seen, but I would like to see how someone else has it done. Anyone? thanks in advance -------- Tucson, AZ Thorp T-211 Connect it how? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=21778#21778 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2006
From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Duct Installation
Pete Krotje a crit : > >Take a look at the Zenith FWF instructions found at www.usjabiru.com. Just >get past the first page and on the second page click on Zenith FWF Kit. >Open the "Fit Ram Air Cooling Ducts instructions. You may also find the >"Connect Engine" instructions helpful. Another source for hints is the >"Tech Tips" section of www.usjabiru.com > > > Pete, Maybe the URL is wrong, or US Jabiru made something wrong, but there is only one page on the website, and it is some beginner's tuto for setting up one's website in a few easy steps... They say it's their future website.... Regards, Gilles Thesee Grenoble, France http://contrails.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon" <jonh(at)flinthills.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Duct Installation
Date: Mar 14, 2006
I would like to add some comments on the ram air duct installation I recently did on a 3300 in a Zenith 601XL 1. There was an interference with the left duct and the left front engine mount rubber donut. I cut a hole in the duct adjacent to the donut and then made a dimpled patch on the inside of the duct. Pete says it is possible to carefully heat the fiberglass with a heat gun and push the material in to form a dimple to provide clearance for the donut. 2. I had to trim my ducts a fair amount around the cylinders inboard and around the valve covers outboard in order for the spark plug boot holes to line up properly with the spark plugs. Don't drill the screw holes in the ducts until you are really sure they fit right or you will regret it. 3. I found that in some places on the outboard edges of the ducts they don't fit tight against the valve covers, and can't really be made to without a lot of rework. I just put some washers on the inside of the ducts adjacent to the screw holes so that when the screws are tightened the ducts don't crack. Hope this helps ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 3:03 PM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Ram Air Duct Installation > > > I have been looking and and talking to several people about installing > the Ram air ducts and it seem simple enough until I get ready to actually > put them on. Here are the steps that I am having problems with. > 1. There are 4 angle brackets that apparently rest on top of the > cylinders without anything between them and the cylinder fins. (Is that > correct?) > > +++ Yes. > > There are two little holes in the brackets, how are the wires connected > to it and held down. > > +++ Thread safety wire through one hole, down under cylinder to other > "butterfly" angle, then back under, up through, twist. > > 2. The pictures/illustrations in the instructions show a wire going > around the cylinder head but not through the brackets, and does it matter > where the wire goes around the cylinder? > > +++ Nope. > > > 3. The pictures/illustrations also show the wire twisted and the spring > somehow connected to the wire wrapped around the cylinder. Where is it > connected and should there be play in the wire? > > +++ No play, you can forget the spring, didn't use it here. > > 4. The spring that holds down the ram duct connects to the ram duct > somewhere, but I have no idea if there should be one point of attachment. > > +++ Attach a piece of safety wire in a large loose loop around center > cylinder and use as per one of these photos. > > cheers jeff - these photos from my CH601 but the installation can't be > that different. > > Does anyone have a good set of instructions or some pictures that show > how it all goes together. It probably is obvious once seen, but I would > like to see how someone else has it done. Anyone? > thanks in advance > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bnoon12(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Ram Air Duct Installation
Date: Mar 14, 2006
Hi Jeff, I appreciate your response to my post, but you mentioned pictures, and I don't see any pictures, or don't know how to get to them. Did you intend to put them on the post, or is there some reference I am missing. thanks in advance, bruce noon Do Not Post -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Jeff Small" <zodiacjeff(at)msn.com> > > > > > I have been looking and and talking to several people about installing the Ram > air ducts and it seem simple enough until I get ready to actually put them on. > Here are the steps that I am having problems with. > 1. There are 4 angle brackets that apparently rest on top of the cylinders > without anything between them and the cylinder fins. (Is that correct?) > > +++ Yes. > > There are two little holes in the brackets, how are the wires connected to it > and held down. > > +++ Thread safety wire through one hole, down under cylinder to other > "butterfly" angle, then back under, up through, twist. > > 2. The pictures/illustrations in the instructions show a wire going around > the cylinder head but not through the brackets, and does it matter where the > wire goes around the cylinder? > > +++ Nope. > > > 3. The pictures/illustrations also show the wire twisted and the spring > somehow connected to the wire wrapped around the cylinder. Where is it > connected and should there be play in the wire? > > +++ No play, you can forget the spring, didn't use it here. > > 4. The spring that holds down the ram duct connects to the ram duct > somewhere, but I have no idea if there should be one point of attachment. > > +++ Attach a piece of safety wire in a large loose loop around center cylinder > and use as per one of these photos. > > cheers jeff - these photos from my CH601 but the installation can't be that > different. > > Does anyone have a good set of instructions or some pictures that show how it > all goes together. It probably is obvious once seen, but I would like to see > how someone else has it done. Anyone? > thanks in advance > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Jeff, I appreciate your response to my post, but you mentioned pictures, and I don't see any pictures, or don't know how to get to them. Did you intend to put them on the post, or is there some reference I am missing. thanks in advance, bruce noon Do Not Post -- (520) 760-5925 Tucson,AZ 85750 -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Jeff Small" zodiacjeff(at)msn.com -- JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Jeff Small" I have been looking and and talking to several people about installing the Ram air ducts and it seem simple enough until I get ready to actually put them on. Here are the steps that I am having problems with. 1. There are 4 angle brackets that apparently rest on top of the cylinders without anything between them and the cylinder fins. (Is that correct?) +++ Yes. There are two little holes in the brackets, how are the wires connected to it and held down. +++ Thread safety wire through one hole, down under cylinder to other "butterfly" angle, then back under , up through, twist. 2. The pictures/illustrations in the instructions show a wire going around the cylinder head but not through the brackets, and does it matter where the wire goes around the cylinder? +++ Nope. 3. The pictures/illustrations also show the wire twisted and the spring somehow connected to the wire wrapped around the cylinder. Where is it connected and should there be play in the wire? +++ No play, you can forget the spring, didn't use it here. 4. The spring that holds down the ram duct connects to the ram duct somewhere, but I have no idea if there should be one point of attachment. +++ Attach a piece of safety wire in a large loose loop around center cylinder and use as per one of these photos. cheers jeff - these photos from my CH601 but the installation can't be that different. Does anyone have a good set of instructions or some pictures that show how it all goes together. It probably is obvious once seen, but I would like to see how someone else has it done. Anyone? thanks in advance - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics Email List Wiki!
Dear Listers, I have added a new feature to the Email List Forums at Matronics called a Wiki. What's "Wiki" you ask? A Wiki is a website. You go to it and browse just like you would any other web site. The difference is, you can change it. You can put anything you want on this web site without having to be a web designer or even being the owner. You can write a new page just like writing an email message on the BBS. You don't need to send it off to anyone to install on the site. It is kind of like a Blog (weblog) in which anyone can post. Here is a great page on where the term Wiki came from and what it means in the context of a website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki So on to the new Matronics Email List Wiki... I've created this site for anyone from any of the Email Lists to use. I envision that there are a great many things that can be added to this new Wiki since there are always new and interesting tidbits of useful information traversing the Lists. Off the main Matronics Email List Wiki page, you will find a link called "Community Portal". Here you will find more links to stubs for all the various Lists found at Matronics (and a few other links). Brian Lloyd and others from the Yak-List have already begun adding content in a number of areas. Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric fame has added a great article on "Ageing Aircraft". I have discussed the new Matronics Email List Wiki with Tedd McHenry and Dwight Frye of the RV Wiki Site and they have decided to merge their site over onto the new Matronics Wiki server giving everyone a single source for information on RV building and flying! This migration will begin today and you should be able to find all of the content currently found at www.rvwiki.org moved over to the Matronics Wiki within a few days. To make edits to the Matronics Wiki, you will need to have a login account on the Matronics Wiki and I have disabled anonymous edits. This protects the Wiki site from automated spam engines and other nuisances that could compromise the data at the site. Signing up for an account is fast and easy and begins by clicking on the "create an account or log in" link in the upper right hand corner of any page. Note that you do not have to have a login or be logged in to view any of the content. The Matronics Email List Wiki is YOUR Wiki! It is only as useful as the content found within. The concept of the Wiki is that the people the use it and update it. If you've got an interesting procedure for doing something, MAKE A WIKI PAGE ON IT! You can even upload pictures. Saw something interesting at a flyin? MAKE A WIKI PAGE ON IT! Don't be shy, this is YOUR site to share information with others with similar interests. Here is a users guide on using the Wiki implemented at Matronics: http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents This gives a lot of great information on how to get started editing pages. And finally, here is the URL for the Matronics Email List Wiki: http://wiki.matronics.com Brian Lloyd has written an excellent introduction to Wikis on the front page. I encourage you to read it over, then drill into the "Community Portal" and HAVE FUN!! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gilles St-Pierre" <ranchlaseigneurie(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Date: Apr 05, 2006
je vais rester a Quebec pour la nuit et je purrais t attendre Samedi a Quebec si c est plus facile..Si je ne devais pas etre a Rimouski Samedi soir je me serais rendu a Montreal sans probleme. Je reviendrai verifier mon courrier demain pour caonnaitre tes possibilites merci gilles ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2006
From: Lancaster Aero Ltd <info(at)jabirucanada.com>
Subject: Re: RE:
To Mr. St-Pierre, Excuse my replying in English, but I am not very good in French. Stan & Gord are in Florida this week at the Sun & Fun air show. They will return on Tuesday, April 11. I am sorry for any inconvenience that this has caused you. Yvonne (Stan's wife) At 04:38 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote: > > >je vais rester a Quebec pour la nuit et je purrais t attendre Samedi a >Quebec si c est plus facile..Si je ne devais pas etre a Rimouski Samedi soir >je me serais rendu a Montreal sans probleme. >Je reviendrai verifier mon courrier demain pour caonnaitre tes possibilites >merci >gilles > > Lancaster Aero Ltd. PO Box 56 Bainsville, ON K0C 1E0 Tel: (613) 347-3155 Fax:(613) 347-3074 Email: info(at)jabirucanada.com www.jabirucanada.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2006
From: john swanson <jswanson(at)up.net>
Subject: unsuscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Apr 24, 2006
You might be experiencing a ground problem rather then a noise voltage. A single point ground is recommended. CHT's and EGT's output millivolts which make them sensitive to ground current loops and noise. You might also want to do an oil bath calibration of the CHT probes to verify that the displayed reading is reasonably accurate. You can pick up a wireless digital thermometer for less than $30 at most Ace hardware stores. Running the test with probes floating and grounded may give significantly different results. Good luck. -------- Jim Stone Jabiru J450 N450SJ Clearwater FL USA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30474#30474 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Welcome to the Jabiru Engines New-Look Forum!
From: "royalevo9" <pat.bsopp(at)ntlworld.com>
Date: Apr 25, 2006
Hi All, New to the forum. Thanks to Andy Silvester for bringing this new site to my attention via the Yahoo Jabiru forum. Matronics looks very good on first inspection. For information my Aircraft is the first Jabiru engined Tiposy Nipper and my little donk is probably the oldest 2200 jab flying. It is engine number 17 ! :D I am an Aircraft Engineer by trade and am fanatical about all things aircraft.I am also a keen motorcyclist (Ducati 851) Other interests are model aircraft and bird watching. I would be most interested to make contact with any tipsy owners here in the south of the UK Kind Regards to all Pat G-ASXI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30608#30608 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Apr 25, 2006
When I calibrated my CHT's I set up about a pint of engine oil in a flat bottomed pot. Heat was provided by a fondu warmer. I got the pot a 'Bed Bathe & Beyond as a lidded canister for about $5. (My wife said OK to using the heater, but not the matching pot.) This gives a reasonable temperature ramp and can go to above boiling without agitation. I use a couple twists of safety wire to keep the sensor and thermometer probes together. A heavy alligator clip provided the ground. The ground should go directly to the engine block. My sensor outputs shifted by a factor of 3 between grounded and ungrounded tests. My sensors have a metal mesh shield but it turns out is is just for abrasion, it was not grounded at either end. The sensor also had a resistance to ground in the low milliohm range. Obviously, in use the grounded configuration is the real world environment. -------- Jim Stone Jabiru J450 N450SJ Clearwater FL USA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30742#30742 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ram Air Duct Installation
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Apr 25, 2006
Hi Bruce, Send me your Email address and I'll ship you a couple photos. Also the new Jabiru kits have ram air ducts that have the plug wires inside rather then sticking through holes in the sides. Which configuration do you have. I modified my old ones. There have also been suggestions to add a exhaust elbow to the back of the ducts to direct air at the mags in hot climates. My address is jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com -------- Jim Stone Jabiru J450 N450SJ Clearwater FL USA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30750#30750 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem - CHT thermocouples
Date: Apr 26, 2006
Bill, If your CHT probes are attached to your monitoring instrument, then all you ahouls have to do is put the "sensening" end of the probe into a know temp liquid and check your instrument reading. I used to check calibration by placing the "twisted" end of the thermocouple wire into ice water (32 deg F/0 deg C) and then into boiling water. Another thing to do to check the CHT thermocouple position for instrument reading is to use a hair dryer or other hot air device to put heat onto the cylinder and check the reading on the instrument. I found that I had two cylinder location readings reversed when I installed my probes. Tony Graziano ZodiacXL/Jab3300A, N493TG, 91 hrs From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: engine monitor problem Jim, I think I will try to test my probes as you suggested. Again, how would you do that ? I have a digital thermometer so would I have to get some water hot and stick the thermometer probe and the CHT probe in there together and see the difference in readings ? You mention grounding. Would I have to run a ground wire from the CHT probe to the engine ? I remember when I purchased the CHT kit the instructions mentioned that they could be off by as much as 75 degrees. Best to you, Bill of Georgia, N505WP, 601X-3300 w/dc and 60 plus hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
From: "Jim Stone" <jsto1(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Apr 26, 2006
My tests were more complex then you would typically encounter. This was because I was testing a custom design before general public release. The firt set of softeware coefficients gave results that were nowhere near the real worlk, Ref temp = 385 'F vs displayed value = 223' F. variation between sensors varied by up to 20% of reference standard. We eventually scrapped the initial hardware and went to differential sensors for each line. The process took several months between hardware and software revisions. All sensors are now +/- 3% of my calibrated reference. The Great Lakes sytsem has enough volume that I would expect all sensors to show in the range of +/- 5% compared to a reference standard. -------- Jim Stone Jabiru J450 N450SJ Clearwater FL USA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30960#30960 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 27, 2006
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem - CHT thermocouples
Tony, I conducted my CHT tests this afternoon and the results were dead spot on. Course I did not get the oil bath temperature up above 175 as hot oil can be a problem, but the probes were very accurate up to that point. I' going to fly into a little fly-in at Larenceville just east of Atlanta Sat morning. Nice field and folks at the EAA chapter put on a fine breakfast. Several other 601's are bound to be around. Maybe you could make it. Best regards, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 27, 2006
Subject: Re: engine monitor problem
Jim, I conducted my CHT probe tests this afternoon as you described with the hot oil and they were very accurate. Good for peace of mind. Thanks for the assistance. Best regards, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sigmo(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2006
Subject: Belleville Washer
I am mounting a GT prop on a Jabiru 3300 engine. The diagram calls for six AN4-43A bolts and twelve PH11773N belleville washers. I have made searches on every search engine I can find and can not find the belleville washers with that part number. Can anyone tell me where I can get these using that part number or get the spech's needed to get them from a Belleville supplier? Thanks, Mike Sigman N7092N ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: /12/06
Date: May 13, 2006
Hi! There is a major debate going on over on the Jabiru Engine Yahoo List and there seems to be a lot of resistance to move over to the Matronics list. This message is just a test to see that it is recorded . Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300 -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JabiruEngine-List Digest Server Sent: 13 May 2006 07:57 Subject: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/12/06 * ================================================== Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================== Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/jabiruengine-list/Digest.JabiruEngine-Li st.2006-05-12.html Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/jabiruengine-list/Digest.JabiruEngine-Li st.2006-05-12.txt ================================================ EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================ ---------------------------------------------------------- JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 05/12/06: 0 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: /12/06
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Date: May 13, 2006
Hi Bob, Welcome to the list! Cheers, Andy Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34396#34396 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics BBS Forums
Hello Listers, I just wanted to send out a reminder to all of the Listers regarding the new-ish BBS (Bulletin Board System) Forums that are available at Matronics for the Email Lists. The BBS Forums give you Web-based access into the same email content that is generated by the Email Lists. When an email message is posted to any of the email lists, a copy of the message is also copied to the respective List forum section on in the BBS Forums. By the same token, when a message is posted within the BBS Forum interface context, it will also be posted to the respective email list. Basically, the BBS Forums give you yet another method of accessing the Matronics Email List content. Some people prefer email, some prefer web forums; now you can have it either way or both with the Matronics Lists! You'll have to register for a login/password on the BBS Forum to _post_ from the BBS, but you can view message content without registering for an account. To Register for an account, look for the link at the top of the main BBS Forum page entitled "Register". Click on it and follow the instructions. Site Administrator approval will be required (to keep spammers out), but I will try to get these approved in less than 24 hours. If you haven't yet taken a look at the Matronics Email List content over on the BBS Forum, surf on over and take a peek. Its pretty cool. The URL is: http://forums.matronics.com I want to stress that the BBS Forums are simply an adjunct to the existing Matronics Email Lists; another way of viewing and interacting with the Matronics List content. If you like Email, great. If you like Web Forums, great. If you like both, great. Its up to you how you view and create your content. You will also find a URL link at the bottom of this email called Matronics List Features Navigator. You can click on this link at any time to find URL links to all of the other great features available on the Matronics site like the Archive Search Engine, List Browse, List Download, FAQs, Wiki, and lots more. There is a specific Navigator for each Email List and the link for this specific List is shown below. Thanks for all the great list participation and support; it is greatly appreciated! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Two New Email Lists at Matronics and Wiki Reminder!
Dear Listers, I have added two new email Lists to the Matronics Line up today. These include a Continental engine List and a Lightning aircraft List: =========== continental-list(at)matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Continental-List Everything related to the Continental aircraft engine. Sky's the limit on discussions here. =========== =========== lightning-list(at)matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Lightning-List This is an exciting new design from Arion Aircraft LLC in Shelbyville Tennessee. Pete Krotje has a very nice web site on the aircraft that can be found here: http://www.arionaircraft.com/ =========== Also, if you haven't checked out the new Matronics Aircraft Wiki, swing by and have a look. Remember, a Wiki is only as good as the content that the members put into it. Have a look over some of the sections, and if you've got some interesting or useful, please add it to the Wiki! Its all about YOU! :-) The URL for the Matronics Wiki is: http://wiki.matronics.com Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Belleville Washer
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Date: May 31, 2006
Jabiru specify using Bellville washers for mounting Jabiru propellers, because the wood they use is softer (relatively) than is used by other prop manufacturers. The washers are made of spring steel and 'dished' so that when torqued correctly, they exert some axial load and therefore retain tension to accommodate the wood moving with changes in humidity etc. A stack of Bellvilles allows a greater tolerance of movement. In the case of the GT propeller, which uses a denser wood, you don't need them unless specified by GT. The same goes for all other prop. manufacturers; use their specified method of mounting. We stock the Bellville washers for use on Jabiru props. Andy Silvester -------- www.suncoastjabiru.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37783#37783 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com>
Subject: Re: Belleville Washer
Date: Jun 01, 2006
Belleville washers can be found at www.mcmaster.com part number 9712K68 Pete Krotje Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Silvester Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 8:27 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Belleville Washer Jabiru specify using Bellville washers for mounting Jabiru propellers, because the wood they use is softer (relatively) than is used by other prop manufacturers. The washers are made of spring steel and 'dished' so that when torqued correctly, they exert some axial load and therefore retain tension to accommodate the wood moving with changes in humidity etc. A stack of Bellvilles allows a greater tolerance of movement. In the case of the GT propeller, which uses a denser wood, you don't need them unless specified by GT. The same goes for all other prop. manufacturers; use their specified method of mounting. We stock the Bellville washers for use on Jabiru props. Andy Silvester -------- www.suncoastjabiru.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37783#37783 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Enclosure Support
Dear Listers, Over the years, I have resisted the urge to enable enclosure support on the Matronics Lists for a number of reasons relating to performance, capacity, capability, and security. However, its now 2006 and most everyone using email these days is on an email client that, at some level, supports the viewing and handling of enclosures. I get a fair amount of email each month from people on the various Lists asking why their posts of this or that picture didn't go through. Back quite a while ago by popular request, I enabled enclosure support for a few Lists such as the RV10-List, Kolb-List, and the Tailwind-List. Contrary to my fears, there really hasn't been any significant issues on these Lists relating to the advent of enclosure support and for the most part, members have policed themselves well with respect to the size of things they have posted. Having enclosures enabled on some Lists and not others has given me a fair amount of headaches with respect to filtering messages and content since the formats are often quite different between a typical MIME encoded message and a generic plain-text message. The spammers are getting more cleaver all the time and are constantly trying to thwart my best efforts at keeping them from posting to the Lists. So, for these reasons, I've have decided to go ahead and enable limited enclosure posting on all of the email Lists at Matronics. This will not only increase the utility of the Lists, but will afford me a better opportunity to filter out the chaff. Here are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics Lists: 1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the Lists. 2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of the Lists. 3) Enclosures WILL BE forwarded on to the BBS Forum Web site. 4) Enclosures will NOT be appended to the Archives. 5) Enclosures will NOT be available in the List Browse feature. 6) Only the following file types and extensions will be allowed: jpg, bmp, gif, txt, xls, pdf, and doc All other enclosures types will be rejected and email returned to sender. The enclosure types listed above are relatively safe from a virus standpoint and don't pose a particularly large security risk. 7) !! All incoming enclosures will be scanned for viruses prior to posting to the List. This is done in real time and will not slow down the process of posting the message !! Here are some rules for posting enclosures. Failure to abide by these rules could result in the removal of a subscriber's email address from the Lists. 1) Pay attention to what you are posting!! Make sure that the files you are enclosing aren't HUGE (greater that 1MB). Remember that there are still people checking they're email via dial up modem. If you post 30MB worth of pictures, you are placing an unnecessary burden on these folks and the rest of us, for that matter. 2) SCALE YOUR PICTURES DOWN!!! I don't want to see huge 3000 x 2000 pictures getting posted that are 3 or 4MB each. This is just unacceptable. Use a program such as Photoshop to scale the picture down to something on the order of 800 x 600 and try to keep the file size to less-than 200KB, preferably much less. Microsoft has a really awesome utility available for free that allows you to Right-Click on a picture in Explorer and automatically scale it down and resave it. This is a great utility - get it, use it! http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx Look for the link "Image Resizer" 3) !! This would seem to go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Do not post anything that would be considered offensive by your grandmother. And you know what I'm saying; I don't want to see anything even questionable. !! 4) REMEMBER THIS: If you post a 1MB enclosure to a List with 1000 members subscribed, your 1MB enclosure must be resent 1000 times amounting to 1MB X 1000 = 1 Gigabyte of network traffic!! BE CAREFUL and BE COURTEOUS! I hope everyone will enjoy the added functionality of enclosures. Please police yourself and use good judgement when posting messages with enclosures using the guidelines I've outlined above. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "doncherie" <doncherie(at)slingshot.co.nz>
Subject: engine whine in 3300 engine
Date: Jun 13, 2006
I have recently experienced a "whine" in the engine from 1200 RPM and below. The whine disappears at exactly 1200 rpm and reappears once throttling back to that rpm. We have taken the alternator out of the housing and checked for wear = none visible. Cowlings have been removed to check for vibration of the engine on the cowls etc.Whine still persists! Engine has been run without master switch on to check if electrical noise exists. The engine is 117 hrs old and has been regularly and meticulously maintained. Any suggestions? Regards, Don Boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N1BZRich(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jun 13, 2006
Subject: Re: engine whine in 3300 engine
Don, Are you hearing this whine through the headset? Is it there with headset off? Do you hear it with the intercom off? I guess the answer to that is yes, since you mentioned it is still there with the master off. If the noise has just recently started, then something has changed. Wiring short or chaffing, etc. Blue Skies, Buz Rich PS: I have about 117 hours total time on my 3300 since the first flight last December. It is a great engine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com>
Subject: engine whine in 3300 engine
Date: Jun 13, 2006
Don, It sounds like you will have some investigating to do. Some possible causes would be alternator or regulator, distributor shaft or rotor, vacuum pump (if you have one). Somehow you need to get these items out of the picture one at a time until the noise goes away. This is the first time someone has described a noise as a whine so I'm a bit lost as to where to look. Pete _____ From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of doncherie Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 12:39 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: engine whine in 3300 engine I have recently experienced a "whine" in the engine from 1200 RPM and below. The whine disappears at exactly 1200 rpm and reappears once throttling back to that rpm. We have taken the alternator out of the housing and checked for wear = none visible. Cowlings have been removed to check for vibration of the engine on the cowls etc.Whine still persists! Engine has been run without master switch on to check if electrical noise exists. The engine is 117 hrs old and has been regularly and meticulously maintained. Any suggestions? Regards, Don Boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2006
From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: engine whine in 3300 engine
Hi Don, I recently bought a low cost "Mechanic's Stethoscope" from Harbor freight. I hoped it would help in locating an air leak in my car from old weather stripping. It is a cheap stethoscope with a long metal tube attached so you can point it in a particular direction and see how strong the noise is. I never did get to test this tool - I bought a new car instead. It doesn't cost very much, so it might be worth a try. Paul XL wings no engine yet. At 08:43 AM 6/13/2006, you wrote: >I have recently experienced a "whine" in the engine from 1200 RPM and below. > >The whine disappears at exactly 1200 rpm and reappears once >throttling back to that rpm. > >We have taken the alternator out of the housing and checked for wear >= none visible. > >Cowlings have been removed to check for vibration of the engine on >the cowls etc.Whine still persists! > >Engine has been run without master switch on to check if electrical >noise exists. > >The engine is 117 hrs old and has been regularly and meticulously maintained. > >Any suggestions? --------------------------------------------- Paul Mulwitz 32013 NE Dial Road Camas, WA 98607 --------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "doncherie" <doncherie(at)slingshot.co.nz>
Subject: Re: engine whine in 3300 engine
Date: Jun 14, 2006
Hi Buz, The whine is definitely not through the headsets and is still there with intercom and master off. You can actually hear it from outside the aircraft Regards, Don ----- Original Message ----- From: N1BZRich(at)aol.com To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 1:04 AM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: engine whine in 3300 engine Don, Are you hearing this whine through the headset? Is it there with headset off? Do you hear it with the intercom off? I guess the answer to that is yes, since you mentioned it is still there with the master off. If the noise has just recently started, then something has changed. Wiring short or chaffing, etc. Blue Skies, Buz Rich PS: I have about 117 hours total time on my 3300 since the first flight last December. It is a great engine. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 6/7/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "doncherie" <doncherie(at)slingshot.co.nz>
Subject: Re: engine whine in 3300 engine
Date: Jun 14, 2006
Hi Pete, Jabiru Australia have emailed me back and suggested that at 1100 rpm a whine often develops in the 3300 engine and is a result of the alternator and stator. they suggest replacing it, but I am still in discussion as to why it all of a sudden appeared. Regards, Don Boyd ----- Original Message ----- From: Jabiru USA To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 3:43 AM Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: engine whine in 3300 engine Don, It sounds like you will have some investigating to do. Some possible causes would be alternator or regulator, distributor shaft or rotor, vacuum pump (if you have one). Somehow you need to get these items out of the picture one at a time until the noise goes away. This is the first time someone has described a noise as a whine so I'm a bit lost as to where to look. Pete ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of doncherie Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 12:39 AM To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: engine whine in 3300 engine I have recently experienced a "whine" in the engine from 1200 RPM and below. The whine disappears at exactly 1200 rpm and reappears once throttling back to that rpm. We have taken the alternator out of the housing and checked for wear = none visible. Cowlings have been removed to check for vibration of the engine on the cowls etc.Whine still persists! Engine has been run without master switch on to check if electrical noise exists. The engine is 117 hrs old and has been regularly and meticulously maintained. Any suggestions? Regards, Don Boyd ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 6/7/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com>
Subject: engine whine in 3300 engine
Date: Jun 14, 2006
Hi Don My engine will whine at about 1150 RPM, If it is the same whine as my engine it is from the straight cut gears on the camshaft and distributor gears. It's kind of the same whine you get from a cam gear drive set up in a small block Chevy instead of a timing chain drive. Jim McCormick Jabiru Pacific LLC 255 W Fallbrook 202B Fresno, CA 93711 Office 559-431-1701 Fax 559-233-3676 www.jabirupacific.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of doncherie Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 10:39 PM To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Subject: JabiruEngine-List: engine whine in 3300 engine I have recently experienced a "whine" in the engine from 1200 RPM and below. The whine disappears at exactly 1200 rpm and reappears once throttling back to that rpm. We have taken the alternator out of the housing and checked for wear none visible. Cowlings have been removed to check for vibration of the engine on the cowls etc.Whine still persists! Engine has been run without master switch on to check if electrical noise exists. The engine is 117 hrs old and has been regularly and meticulously maintained. Any suggestions? Regards, Don Boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
Date: Jul 09, 2006
Subject: Exhaust Gaskets
On my Jabiru 2200 (SN 988) a couple of the screws holding the exhaust pipe have not moved when trying to tighten them. Could they be frozen in the head? When the factory assembles the exhaust and intake pipes do they use anti-seize compound? I sure would hate to twist a screw off while trying to loosen them to check the gaskets. Chuck D. N701TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2006
Subject: Re: Exhaust Gaskets
Hi Chuck, Sorry for the delayed reply. Those cap-screws do stick pretty-well from the constant heat/cool cycles so yes, it might be a good idea to loosen and then retighten them to ensure they are keeping the joint tight. I know they are tricky to access, but a loose or below-torque joint will soon blow the gasket. Using anti-seize can help too. Andy Silvester Suncoast Sportplanes Inc. -------- www.suncoastjabiru.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46470#46470 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris In Madison" <cowens(at)cnw.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2006
Subject: 3300 Winter Engine Warming Requirements?
Hi all, After reading the tips on the Jabiru US site for cold weather starting, it appears that the recommendation is to blow warm air across the carbs with a small (1100W) heater to ease winter starting. Seems reasonable enough. One thought that crossed my mind, however, is what other winter precautions I would need to take should I choose this engine. The item that triggered these thoughts was a read through a white paper that Tanis Aircraft had put together related to how bad cold starting is on an aircraft engine. Now, they may have made it seem like winter is deadly for aircraft engines for purposes of selling engine heating components. But it did make me wonder. So, for those more experienced than me (which is pretty much everyone), do I need to take extra precautions to ensure a thoroughly warmed engine for cold weather flying living up here in the cold Wisconsin winters? Is putting a Tanis heater on this engine necessary (not that Tanis actually has a kit specifically for this engine, mind you). Thanks for any insight you can provide. Best regards, Chris -------- Chris Owens Waunakee, WI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46532#46532 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N1BZRich(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jul 12, 2006
Subject: Re: 3300 Winter Engine Warming Requirements?
Hi Chris, It seems strange to be talking about cold weather procedures when it was 94 here in Virginia today. But to provide some input to your question, I am sure it does not get as cold here as up in Wisconsin, but what I normally do in put two 100 watt light bulbs under the cowl near the bottom of the engine. I also plug the inlets and put a big blanket over the cowl to keep the heat in. We sometimes get temps in the low teens and this procedure seems to keep the engine compartment about 40 degrees above ambient temp in my hangar. Don't know if that would be the case in WI. I have used this procedure during the winter months for over ten years, first on my Bonanza, and now with my Jabiru 3300 powered Esqual. Blue Skies, Buz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: xl <xl(at)prosody.org>
Date: Jul 12, 2006
Subject: Re: 3300 Winter Engine Warming Requirements?
I'm in Seattle, so I don't have much subfreezing starting experience. When it is below ~45F I do preheat. I also richened the idle mixture based on the Jabiru tech tips. If I don't richen the mixture and preheat I may not get it started before the battery runs down. If you can't get it started right away it probably won't start. I had to jump start once and switch to a charged battery before I started preheating. You'll need some sort of heater below 40-50F. My plane is parked on the tarmac, no hanger. I don't have electricity available. I use a length of aluminum dryer vent and a propane torch. I shove the vent into the lower cowl and point the torch into it. The colder it is the longer I wait. Usually the preflight prep time is long enough for the carbs and manifold to get warm enough. This method would probably take too long if the OAT was below 20F - unless I used more torches. Even if it will start, preheating is easier on the engine and battery. It may be cheaper to heat the engine externally than to run it to get the oil temp above 100F. Joe E N633Z @ BFI CH601XL, Jabiru 3300, 360 hours http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris In Madison" <cowens(at)cnw.com>
Date: Jul 13, 2006
Subject: Re: 3300 Winter Engine Warming Requirements?
Thanks to you all for your input on the subject. Another question with good answers tucked away in the ol' memory banks for future use. Thanks and best regards, Chris -------- Chris Owens Waunakee, WI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46933#46933 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz>
Date: Jul 25, 2006
Subject: Re: Belleville Washer
Please advise where the installation diagram is for those 12 washers? are they stacked together or opposing? I have been finding low torque on the bolts every 5 hrs or so and would have fitted the washers had it been known they were called for. I looked at all the downloads and my manuals and CD theres no reference there so this must have been introduced since my engine new 2 yrs ago. Thanks -------- Ralph - CH701 / 2200a Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=49697#49697 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Jul 26, 2006
Subject: Re: Belleville Washer
The washer are installed "toe to toe" i.e. ( ), under the nuts and are shown on Jabiru dwg C009013-1. Go to Jabiru USA for their Zenith Firewall Forward and pull up "Fit prop and spinner assy" found at http://www.usjabiru.com/Zenith%20FWF%20Images/79.%20Fit%20Prop%20&%20Spinner%20assy.PDF. Note: Recommend you use the torque values recommended by your prop manufacturer vice those shown for Jab. It is my understanding that the wood used in Australian Jab props is a little softer and therefore more "crushable" than woods used by prop manufactures such as Sensenich. Tony Graziano Zodiac 601XL; N493TG - 120 hrs. -------------------- > From: "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Belleville Washer > > > Please advise where the installation diagram is for those 12 washers? are > they > stacked together or opposing? > I have been finding low torque on the bolts every 5 hrs or so and would > have > fitted the washers had it been known they were called for. I looked at > all the > downloads and my manuals and CD theres no reference there so this must > have > been introduced since my engine new 2 yrs ago. > > Thanks > > -------- > Ralph - CH701 / 2200a > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=49697#49697 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
Date: Jul 26, 2006
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/25/06
Ralph, I sent you a copy of the manual but the source is below. On Jabiru CD manuals look under J Series Manual/Firewall Forward/Fit Prop& Spinner assy.PDF Chuck D. N701TX > From: "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Belleville Washer > > > Please advise where the installation diagram is for those 12 washers? are they > stacked together or opposing? > I have been finding low torque on the bolts every 5 hrs or so and would have > fitted the washers had it been known they were called for. I looked at all the > downloads and my manuals and CD theres no reference there so this must have > been introduced since my engine new 2 yrs ago. > > Thanks > > -------- > Ralph - CH701 / 2200a > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Jul 31, 2006
Subject: Matronics Email List Web Server Upgrade Tonight...
Dear Listers, This evening I will be upgrading the Matronics Web Server hardware to a new Quad-processor 2.8Ghz Xeon system (yes, 4-physical CPUs!) with an Ultra 320 SCSI Raid 5 disk system and 5GB of DDR2 RAM. As with the older system, the new system will be running the latest version of Redhat Linux. Most of the software configuration work is already done for the migration, but I still have to sync all of the archive and forum data from the old system to the new system. I am anticipating about 2 to 3 hours of downtime for me to fully make the transition, although it could be considerable less if everything goes according to plan. The Matronics Webserver will be *UNavailable* from the Internet during the work, and you will receive a time-out if you try to connect during the upgrade. Email List Distribution will be *available* during the upgrade of the Web Server, and List message distribution will function as normal. This represents a significant performance upgrade for the Matronics Web Server and you should notice nicely improved searching and surfing performance following the upgrade! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: New Incoming Message Size Limit Implemented...
Dear Listers, Due to a number of requests to limit the size of incoming posts to the Lists because of the recently added enclosure feature, I have add a new filter that will limit the total size of any given message posted to the List. I have initially set the limit to 2MB and we'll see how everyone likes that. If a member attempts to post a message that is greater than the set limit, they will receive an email back indicating that their message wasn't posted to the List and why. Also included in the message will be the current size limit and how large their message was. Some might say that 2MB is still too large, but its a place to start... Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Latest 3300 Engine (Hyd. Lifter) manuals added to web
site
From: "Andy Silvester" <info(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Date: Aug 10, 2006
The latest Jabiru 3300 (6 - cylinder) engine manuals have now been added to our web site for information. These are for engines from serial number 33A 961 onwards which include hydraulic valve gear and extra cooling fin area on heads and cylinders. To download (a broadband connection is advised), right-click on the title in the Downloads area, then select 'save as' from the menu. See http://www.suncoastjabiru.com/downloads.htm Andy -------- www.suncoastjabiru.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=53852#53852 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 25, 2006
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/24/06
In a message dated 9/25/2006 2:58:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com writes: .....how important is watching the EGT, especially of all six jugs? Hi Tim, Nice to see some activity on this list for a change. I'm certainly not an expert, but I think I can answer your question. Monitoring all EGT's, as with CHT's MAP, Carb Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, etc, will help point to issues before they become problems. The issues I speak of in regard to EGT's are things like loose intake connections, improperly adjusted valves, a burnt or sticking valve, a loose spark plug, etc., anything that would lean out the engine and cause harm over time. If you had a problem where the engine was running too rich, this would also show up in EGT's. I use a Grand Rapids EIS with a graphical display. Sometimes it is a borderline distraction with all the info in provides, but as I've been breaking in a 3300 on a Europa XS I've recently completed, I've found the monitoring of all EGT's a great help. All 3300's shipped after s/n 722 were shipped with an "economy cruise" needle jet, along with a new Jabiru needle. The Jab needle is shaped with "steps' along its length so that it corresponds more closely to the performance curve of the engine. The stock Bing needle is a near constant taper and works, but isn't optimum. This factory combo leans out the mixture at the right places and the new needle allows the other portions of the carb to kick in when needed. The result is fuel burn numbers similar to the 912S in cruise. I'm seeing about 3.8 gph at 2900 rpm, resulting in a cruise speed of about 130 kts at 5000' on the Europa. I'm running a Sensenich hollow carbon ground adjustable at the moment, but I intend to switch to an electrically adjustable hub as soon as they are available for the Sensenich blades. However, I found in the initial running of my 3300 that my EGT's were quite high, >1450 F. After some searching, conversations with Andy Silvester of Gulfcoast Sportplanes (where I got the 3300) and noodling out the problem I decided that the economy needle jet was probably too small for break in, resulting in a very lean mixture, as evidenced by the color of the plugs and the high EGT's. Taking Andy's advice, I switched to a 285 needle jet and the EGT's dropped 150F and the plugs are now a nice tan color. Interestingly, I noticed the other day while reading the most recent issue of "Jabba Chat" that the factory has switched to the 285 needle jet in favor of the 278 as of April of this year. As the old saying goes, "An abnormally high EGT will tell you that you are about to french fry your engine. An abnormally high CHT will tell you that you just french fried your engine". This notion is probably more true for 2 strokes than 4 strokes, but the point remains the same. In regard to preheating, I concur. I own a PA-25 Pawnee (0-540), a 7GCA Citabria (0-320) and the Europa with a 3300. I preheat all three year round, regardless of the ambient temperature. The Pawnee has both a Tanis block heater and EZ-Heat oil pan heater. The Citabria has just the EZ-Heat oil pan heater. My Europa has a heat pad similar to the EZ-Heat, but was obtained from JC Whitney. The heat pad on the Europa is automotive, but is nearly identical to the EZ-Heat, but about 1/3rd the price. I can usually get the oil temps to 140F before hitting the starter on any of the three , even on the coldest day. (and yes, we can get some mighty cold days here in January and February) One thing I'd like to know is how many Jab owners out there are running carburettors other than the Bing? Aerocarbs, Ellisons? I'd really like to have mixture control and the Aerocarb looks like a nice unit for the price. Comments? Anyway, good luck with your project. The best part is yet to come! Regards, John Lawton Whitwell, TN - TN89 Europa N245E - Flying - 33.5 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 25, 2006
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: CHT Duct Mods for 3300
Jab Pals, I have made a combination of mods to air ducts and cowl outlet that has reduced CHT on No. 4 & 6 by 70 degrees at max cruise. I have eight slow dial up photos of the mods and will share with you all. How do I send photos to the Jab site. Best regards, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "vwknott" <vwknott(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: CHT Duct Mods for
3300
Date: Sep 25, 2006
Hi JA Good to hear from a Jabiru engine owner. I have a 2200 in a Zenith 701and am having air flou troble EGT is high and RPM is only about 2650 I sure would like to look at tour photos When I fly it, it acts like it is mising. Vernon Knott vwknott(at)cox.net : jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 9:19 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: CHT Duct Mods for 3300 Jab Pals, I have made a combination of mods to air ducts and cowl outlet that has reduced CHT on No. 4 & 6 by 70 degrees at max cruise. I have eight slow dial up photos of the mods and will share with you all. How do I send photos to the Jab site. Best regards, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gdh" <gdh(at)isp.com>
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: CHT Duct Mods for
3300
Date: Sep 25, 2006
Bill, Sure would like to see the photos. Regards, Dale Europa XP/3300 ----- Original Message ----- From: JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 6:19 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: CHT Duct Mods for 3300 Jab Pals, I have made a combination of mods to air ducts and cowl outlet that has reduced CHT on No. 4 & 6 by 70 degrees at max cruise. I have eight slow dial up photos of the mods and will share with you all. How do I send photos to the Jab site. Best regards, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: CHT Duct Mods for 3300
From: "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com>
Date: Sep 26, 2006
Try the file/photo share features of Matronics... http://www.matronics.com/enclosures.html -- Michael [quote="JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com"]Jab Pals, I have made a combination of mods to air ducts and cowl outlet that has reduced CHT on No. 4 & 6 by 70 degrees at max cruise. I have eight slow dial up photos of the mods and will share with you all. How do I send photos to the Jab site. Best regards, Bill > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=64080#64080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
Subject: Jabiru SERVICE BULLETIN: JSB 013-1
Date: Sep 27, 2006
How are we 2200A folks, without hydraulic lifters (Serial # below 2068) and not needing to drill a hole in the rocker cavities, supposed to interpret SERVICE BULLETIN: JSB 013-1? Which says 4.3 Operations After Modified: a) Continue to fill the oil sump no higher than the lower mark of the dipstick. b) Oil consumption when filled below the lower mark should be monitored and known to be acceptable before carrying out flights of over 3.5 hours duration. Do we just fill to the lower mark too, and how far below the lower mark is OK? Chuck D. N701TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com>
Subject: Jabiru SERVICE BULLETIN: JSB 013-1
Date: Sep 27, 2006
Chuck, If you serial number does not fall within the specified range then you should ignore the entire bulletin as it does not apply to your engine. Pete Krotje Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC _____ From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Deiterich Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 5:03 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru SERVICE BULLETIN: JSB 013-1 How are we 2200A folks, without hydraulic lifters (Serial # below 2068) and not needing to drill a hole in the rocker cavities, supposed to interpret SERVICE BULLETIN: JSB 013-1? Which says 4.3 Operations After Modified: a) Continue to fill the oil sump no higher than the lower mark of the dipstick. b) Oil consumption when filled below the lower mark should be monitored and known to be acceptable before carrying out flights of over 3.5 hours duration. Do we just fill to the lower mark too, and how far below the lower mark is OK? Chuck D. N701TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists...
Dear Listers (Specifically Comcast Listers), For about the last two days, Comcast was blocking incoming email from the Matronics Email Lists because their spam filters thought the mail was spam. I was that people on Comcast are receiving List messages again. If you are a Comcast user, you might want to email them and express your displeasure with their Spam blocking policy, particularly as it relates to "matronics.com". Sorry for the hassle... Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists...
Date: Oct 29, 2006
Matt I have been subscribed to the Jabiru engine list for about 3 weeks and have to received a single email. If I need to do something please let me know. I have spam blocking, but mine offers the opportunity to view it and I have not seen anything from Jabiru engine Matronics list. I am on Kitfox list and get Kitfox matronics emails just fine. As always, thank you for administering this list. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:57 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists... > > > > Dear Listers (Specifically Comcast Listers), > > For about the last two days, Comcast was blocking incoming email from the > Matronics Email Lists because their spam filters thought the mail was > 10/29/2006 and it appears that people on Comcast are receiving List > messages again. > > If you are a Comcast user, you might want to email them and express your > displeasure with their Spam blocking policy, particularly as it relates to > "matronics.com". > > Sorry for the hassle... > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Admin > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Jabiru Engine Serial number 497
Date: Oct 29, 2006
Hello list. I am a newby to the Jabiru engine list. I have a Model IV Kixfox with a Rotax 912 and am considering changing to the Jabiru 2200. There is a Jabiru 2200 for sale on Barnstormers, serial number 497. Was hoping some of you might be able to give me some idea as to whether this engine serial number would have the newer 2200 mods such as more cooling fins. Any information would be much appreciated. Jimmie Blackwell Kitfox Model IV Speedster Cedar Park, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2006
From: Rico Voss <vozzen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists...
>>I have been subscribed to the Jabiru engine list for about 3 weeks and have to received a single email. Jimmie-- Probably nothing wrong with your connection to Matronics, unless the brief Comcast blocking affected you. Several months ago, the Yahoo Jab-engine group (where you'll find most of the Jab traffic) discussed shifting to Matronics, but the "if it aint broke, dont fix it" philosophy prevailed... in spite of Matronics being a far more useful forum. [Another example of the frightening preference in this country for mediocrity] Suggest you go to Yahoo Groups and sign up... --Rico ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2006
From: Lancaster Aero Ltd <info(at)jabirucanada.com>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Engine Serial number 497
Hello Jimmie, I am sorry but Stan & Gord are in Australia until the 12 of November. I have forward your email on to them and if they receive it I am sure that they will answer you. If there is a problem at the plant then Stan will answer you when they come back. Yvonne (Stan's wife) At 07:45 PM 10/29/2006, you wrote: >Hello list. I am a newby to the Jabiru engine list. I have a Model IV >Kixfox with a Rotax 912 and am considering changing to the Jabiru 2200. > >There is a Jabiru 2200 for sale on Barnstormers, serial number 497. Was >hoping some of you might be able to give me some idea as to whether this >engine serial number would have the newer 2200 mods such as more cooling fins. > >Any information would be much appreciated. > >Jimmie Blackwell >Kitfox Model IV Speedster >Cedar Park, Texas Lancaster Aero Ltd. PO Box 56 Bainsville, ON K0C 1E0 Tel: (613) 347-3155 Fax:(613) 347-3074 Email: info(at)jabirucanada.com www.jabirucanada.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Engine Serial number 497
Date: Oct 30, 2006
Thank you. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lancaster Aero Ltd" <info(at)jabirucanada.com> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 9:29 AM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru Engine Serial number 497 > > > Hello Jimmie, > > I am sorry but Stan & Gord are in Australia until the 12 of November. I > have forward your email on to them and if they receive it I am sure that > they will answer you. If there is a problem at the plant then Stan will > answer you when they come back. > > Yvonne (Stan's wife) > > At 07:45 PM 10/29/2006, you wrote: >>Hello list. I am a newby to the Jabiru engine list. I have a Model IV >>Kixfox with a Rotax 912 and am considering changing to the Jabiru 2200. >> >>There is a Jabiru 2200 for sale on Barnstormers, serial number 497. Was >>hoping some of you might be able to give me some idea as to whether this >>engine serial number would have the newer 2200 mods such as more cooling >>fins. >> >>Any information would be much appreciated. >> >>Jimmie Blackwell >>Kitfox Model IV Speedster >>Cedar Park, Texas > > Lancaster Aero Ltd. > PO Box 56 > Bainsville, ON K0C 1E0 > Tel: (613) 347-3155 > Fax:(613) 347-3074 > Email: info(at)jabirucanada.com > www.jabirucanada.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists...
Date: Oct 30, 2006
Thank you Rico. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rico Voss" <vozzen(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 9:21 AM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists... > >>>I have been subscribed to the Jabiru engine list for about 3 weeks and >>>have > to received a single email. > > Jimmie-- > Probably nothing wrong with your connection to Matronics, unless the brief > Comcast blocking affected you. > > Several months ago, the Yahoo Jab-engine group (where you'll find most of > the Jab traffic) discussed shifting to Matronics, but the "if it aint > broke, dont fix it" philosophy prevailed... in spite of Matronics being a > far more useful forum. > [Another example of the frightening preference in this country for > mediocrity] > > Suggest you go to Yahoo Groups and sign up... > --Rico > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2006
Subject: Re: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists...
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Jimmie- I'll echo what Rico said...in spades. (whatever that means) I find the yahoo mechanism far beneath the Matronics list, and I don't think the yahoo has an archive, but I could be wrong. If you use the yahoo, and you'll have to to talk about Jabiru's, you'll have your complaints as well. Even one of the Jabiru dealers tried to sway the group over to Matronics, but like the sheep that all follow the Rotax lead, they won't budge from their path. Matt Dralle even tried to get me to talk up the Matronics list, but they wouldn't take the advice...go figure... Lynn On Monday, October 30, 2006, at 10:21 AM, Rico Voss wrote: > >>> I have been subscribed to the Jabiru engine list for about 3 weeks >>> and have > to received a single email. > > Jimmie-- > Probably nothing wrong with your connection to Matronics, unless the > brief Comcast blocking affected you. > > Several months ago, the Yahoo Jab-engine group (where you'll find most > of the Jab traffic) discussed shifting to Matronics, but the "if it > aint broke, dont fix it" philosophy prevailed... in spite of Matronics > being a far more useful forum. > [Another example of the frightening preference in this country for > mediocrity] > > Suggest you go to Yahoo Groups and sign up... > --Rico > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 2006
Subject: Flow balancing
In a message dated 11/1/2006 3:00:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com writes: Got my answer. I attended a class two weekends ago at Jabiru that dealt with installing the Jabiru 3300 in a Zodiac XL. Pete recommends installing egt probes on the rearmost two cylinders primarily to allow fine tuning of the carburetor (RE: proper jetting, balancing airflow to even out the right and left bank of cylinders, etc.) There is a bit more to getting things optimized than I first understood. Hi Tim I've got a 3300 installed in a Europa I recently completed (60 hours so far). I have the carb jetted according to the factory recommendations, i.e., 285 needle jet with the Jabiru needle. I have heard about installing an aluminum fin in the exit throat of the air box to help balance the flow to the cylinders by making the flow more laminar. What else can you do to balance the cylinders? Regards, John Lawton Dunlap, TN N245E ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics Email List Fund Raiser - November!
Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through these sole Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matornics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matornics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. Each message will generally highlight a particular feature or benefit of the Matronics Lists or detail a new feature or service that was added this year. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises aka Kitlog Pro (http://www.kitlog.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/). These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Paul, Andy, and Jon for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below: https://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really do feel like family. Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Have You Tried The New Matronics List Forum?
Hello Listers, One of the major new additions to the Matronics Email Lists this year was the addition of a new and full function Forum Web Site at: http://forums.matronics.com The best part of these new Forums is that they are tied directly to the Classic email distribution Lists! That also means that posts go in both directions. If you post a message on the Forum web site, it will be cross posted to the respective Email List. And, if you post a message to a particular Email List, it will be cross posted to the same respective forum on the Forum site! So, no matter what your content viewing pleasure is - either direct email distribution or web-based GUI interface, you can have it at the Matronics Email Lists! Won't you make a Contribution to support these Lists? It is your SOLE Contributions that make their continued operation and upgrade possible! The Contribution site is Fast, Easy, and Secure. Please surf over and make your Contribution today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator _- _- _- _- _- _- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
Subject: Jab Service Bulletin JSB 012-1 Fly wheel bolts
Date: Nov 03, 2006
According to Jab Service Bulletin JSB 012-1, it appears that almost all of us will have to pull our alternators and check the fly wheel bolts after six months or 50 hours which means now for most of us. It also says that if they move at all, they must be removed cleaned and replaced with locktite 620 which is extremely strong. If used originally the 620 might keep them from turning even if the tension on the flywheel is not enough, you may never know. Pete, Andy, Jim what is your take on this bulletin? Here is the link. http://www.jabiru.net.au/Service%20Bulletins/Engine%20files/Jabiru%20Engine% 20Flywheel%20Attachment%20JSB012-1.pdf Chuck D. _- _- _- _- _- _- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Wow, Cool! New List Feature... [Please Read]
Dear Listers, By popular suggestion, I've written a substantial new code module for the Matronics Email Lists system. Here's how it works... During each November, I send out quite a few PBS-like "Please make a Contribution to support your List" emails. Wouldn't it be cool if, once a member made a Contribution, they didn't have to receive my support pleas anymore for the rest of that year? Well, that's exactly what I've written! Following this posting, anyone that makes a List Contribution in 2006 will no longer receive my Contribution Pleas for the rest of the year! The best part is this not only applies to the Realtime distribution, but also the Digest distribution! For those that have made a Contribution, the Daily Digest email-version will be invisibly stripped of my requests as well! (Note that my requests will still be present in the online versions of the Digests, List Browse, and on the Forum site.) For those submitting their Contribution by personal Check, please be sure to include your email address along with your Check as this is what is used to determine eligibility. So, in a nutshell, here's how it works: Make a Contribution = No more "Please Make a Contribution" messages! How sweet is that? If that's not a great reason to jump on the Matronics Email List Contribution site and make your donation today, I don't know what is! Don't forget that there are some totally awesome free gifts to be had along with your List Contribution this year!! Don't wait a minute longer to support your Lists! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you for your Support!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: If You Got This Email, You Haven't Made A Contribution
Yet! :-) If you received this particular Matronics List Email message, its because you haven't yet made a Contribution to support your Lists! This is the first PBS-like funds drive message under the new distribution system. The new system selectively sends out the Contribution messages ONLY to those that forgot to whip out the 'ol credit card this year to support the continued operation and upgrade of the Matronics Email Lists! Don't you wish PBS worked that way? :-) You heard that right. Once you make your Contribution, these support requests messages during November will suddenly stop coming to your personal email inbox! Pardon me if I seem kind of excited about the new feature. I've wanted to implement something like this for a number of years now, but it was always such a daunting task to modify the back-end List processing code, that I just kept putting it off. Finally this year, I just decided to bite the bullet and put the code-pounding time it to make it work. A few days later, bam! A working system! Anyway, I'll stop gushing now. I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for the Commercial-Grade Internet connection and to pay the rather huge electric bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered up. Your personal Contribution matters because when combined with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercialism that is so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List site. I'm pretty sure you don't either. If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution today to keep it that way!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <maderah2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: If You Got This Email, You Haven't Made A Contribution
Yet! :-)
Date: Nov 08, 2006
Please remove me from your list. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 12:11 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: If You Got This Email, You Haven't Made A Contribution Yet! :-) > > > If you received this particular Matronics List Email message, its because > you haven't yet made a Contribution to support your Lists! This is the > first PBS-like funds drive message under the new distribution system. The > new system selectively sends out the Contribution messages ONLY to those > that forgot to whip out the 'ol credit card this year to support the > continued operation and upgrade of the Matronics Email Lists! Don't you > wish PBS worked that way? :-) > > You heard that right. Once you make your Contribution, these support > requests messages during November will suddenly stop coming to your > personal email inbox! Pardon me if I seem kind of excited about the new > feature. I've wanted to implement something like this for a number of > years now, but it was always such a daunting task to modify the back-end > List processing code, that I just kept putting it off. Finally this year, > I just decided to bite the bullet and put the code-pounding time it to > make it work. A few days later, bam! A working system! > > Anyway, I'll stop gushing now. I really do appreciate each and every one > of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support > that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to > run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for the Commercial-Grade > Internet connection and to pay the rather huge electric bill to keep the > computer gear running and the air conditioner powered up. > > Your personal Contribution matters because when combined with other > Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and > running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics > Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercialism > that is so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't > want to have it on my Email List site. I'm pretty sure you don't either. > > If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the > Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution today to keep it that > way!! > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Thank you! > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Administrator > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "L David Stricker" <Snow_Board(at)cox.net>
Subject: Please remove me from your list.
Date: Nov 08, 2006
Please remove me from your list. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Clarification On New Contribution Module Operation...
Dear Listers, A number of Listers emailed and indicated that, even though they had made a Contribution this year, they still received the Contribution message yesterday. I looked into it and I found a slight anomaly (ok, bug) in the new code specifically as it related to Listers that had made their Contribution through PayPal AND have a DIFFERENT email address for their PayPal account and for their Matronics List subscription. If your PayPal account email address is DIFFERENT than the email address you are subscribed to the Matronics List(s) as, then my new code module couldn't tell that you had made a Contribution, since it was using the PayPal email address instead of the List email. I've fixed this issue for any new PayPal Contributions, but I don't have any easy way of resolving this for any of the previous Contribtuions. Again, this is ONLY an issue if your PayPal and Matronics List email addresses ARE NOT the same. Otherwise, everything works great. If you made a PayPal Contribution before 11/09/06 AND your email addresses don't match, please drop me an email at " info(at)matronics.com " (do not reply to this message!) and give me your Name, and both Email Addresses and I will manually update the records so that things will work as advertised. Sorry for the hassle! New code; new bugs... :-) To make a Contribution, please see: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administration ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Wiki...
Dear Listers, I added a new Wiki web site to the Matronics Email List features earlier this year. What's a Wiki, you ask? Well, here's the Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki) definition: A wiki (IPA: [ w .ki ] or [ wi .ki ] ) is a type of Web site that allows the visitors themselves to easily add, remove, and otherwise edit and change some available content, sometimes without the need for registration. This ease of interaction and operation makes a wiki an effective tool for collaborative authoring. The term wiki also can refer to the collaborative software itself (wiki engine) that facilitates the operation of such a Web site, or to certain specific wiki sites, including the computer science site (an original wiki), WikiWikiWeb, and on-line encyclopedias such as Wikipedia. Under the Matronics Email List Moniker, there is now a very nice List-specific Wiki available! It a place for Listers to put articles about any aviation topic that suits them. The purpose is to provide what the mailing lists do not: structure and persistence. The mailing lists are a fantastic resource to ask a question and get good (and bad and funny and annoying) answers. But once the question is asked and answered it is not in front of the List anymore. If a new person subscribes the next day, he/she does not see that information unless he/she goes to the trouble to search the archives, a hit or miss proposition. The result is that the same thread of conversation gets created and/or revisited. There are several things that happen as a result: 1. The person gets his or her question answered; 2. The information gets better as more people think about and answer the question; 3. The people who have seen the same question asked and answered get annoyed at seeing the same things over and over and over and ... So this is where the Wiki comes in. You know what questions you wanted answered. You may have asked or answered the question. You know the information is useful. So you put the information here, in the Matronics Email List Wiki! It doesn't matter that this information is 100% complete or correct. Just writing something creates a placeholder and makes useful information available immediately. It has the same immediacy as the mailing list but it has persistence and structure. But what if the information is incomplete or incorrect? No problem! Anyone else coming along can edit the article! If I write something and you discover something I have left out or stated incorrectly, you can fix it right then! So let's begin and make this the place for information about building, flying, maintaining, and understanding our airplanes. But what about whether something is "appropriate" or not? Don't worry. Write it down. Let the reader determine whether or not it is appropriate. If it is, he/she will read it. If it isn't, he/she won't. It's as simple as that. And when you do write that article you won't have to worry about whether some editor is going to decide whether or not to print it in a newsletter or whether the webmaster will have time to put it up on the web page. The last question I hear brewing out there is: if anyone can post anything, won't this just become a mass of garbage? Surprisingly, the answer is a resounding no. If you want proof, go visit the Wikipedia, a free-to-everyone encyclopedia written by whoever wants to write articles. The articles there are as good as anything I have read anywhere and anyone can add anything anytime they want to. So don't hesitate. Write it down. Put it here. It will never hurt anyone. The more information we get here, the more useful it will become to other people and the more information they will put here for YOU to use. Here's the URL to start (there are lots more bured under this starting place): http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Matronics:Community_Portal But please don't forget that this Wiki and all of the other Matronics Email List features are supported solely by YOUR Contributions!! November is List Fund Raiser month and there are lots of Free Gifts to be had with your qualifying Contribution. Please make a Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great services!!! Thank you! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "doncherie" <doncherie(at)slingshot.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Wiki...
Date: Nov 12, 2006
Please remove me from the list Regards Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 7:12 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Wiki... > > > Dear Listers, > > I added a new Wiki web site to the Matronics Email List features earlier > this year. What's a Wiki, you ask? Well, here's the Wikipedia > (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki) definition: > > A wiki (IPA: [ w .ki ] or [ wi .ki ] ) is a type of Web > site that allows the visitors themselves to easily add, remove, and > otherwise edit and change some available content, sometimes without the > need for registration. This ease of interaction and operation makes a > wiki an effective tool for collaborative authoring. The term wiki also > can refer to the collaborative software itself (wiki engine) that > facilitates the operation of such a Web site, or to certain specific wiki > sites, including the computer science site (an original wiki), > WikiWikiWeb, and on-line encyclopedias such as Wikipedia. > > Under the Matronics Email List Moniker, there is now a very nice > List-specific Wiki available! It a place for Listers to put articles > about any aviation topic that suits them. The purpose is to provide what > the mailing lists do not: structure and persistence. The mailing lists > are a fantastic resource to ask a question and get good (and bad and funny > and annoying) answers. But once the question is asked and answered it is > not in front of the List anymore. If a new person subscribes the next > day, he/she does not see that information unless he/she goes to the > trouble to search the archives, a hit or miss proposition. The result is > that the same thread of conversation gets created and/or revisited. There > are several things that happen as a result: > > 1. The person gets his or her question answered; > > 2. The information gets better as more people think about and answer > the question; > > 3. The people who have seen the same question asked and answered get > annoyed at seeing the same things over and over and over and ... > > So this is where the Wiki comes in. You know what questions you wanted > answered. You may have asked or answered the question. You know the > information is useful. So you put the information here, in the Matronics > Email List Wiki! > > It doesn't matter that this information is 100% complete or correct. Just > writing something creates a placeholder and makes useful information > available immediately. It has the same immediacy as the mailing list but > it has persistence and structure. > > But what if the information is incomplete or incorrect? No problem! > Anyone else coming along can edit the article! If I write something and > you discover something I have left out or stated incorrectly, you can fix > it right then! > > So let's begin and make this the place for information about building, > flying, maintaining, and understanding our airplanes. > > But what about whether something is "appropriate" or not? Don't worry. > Write it down. Let the reader determine whether or not it is appropriate. > If it is, he/she will read it. If it isn't, he/she won't. It's as simple > as that. > > And when you do write that article you won't have to worry about whether > some editor is going to decide whether or not to print it in a newsletter > or whether the webmaster will have time to put it up on the web page. > > The last question I hear brewing out there is: if anyone can post > anything, won't this just become a mass of garbage? Surprisingly, the > answer is a resounding no. If you want proof, go visit the Wikipedia, a > free-to-everyone encyclopedia written by whoever wants to write articles. > The articles there are as good as anything I have read anywhere and anyone > can add anything anytime they want to. > > So don't hesitate. Write it down. Put it here. It will never hurt > anyone. The more information we get here, the more useful it will become > to other people and the more information they will put here for YOU to > use. > > Here's the URL to start (there are lots more bured under this starting > place): > > http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Matronics:Community_Portal > > > But please don't forget that this Wiki and all of the other Matronics > Email List features are supported solely by YOUR Contributions!! November > is List Fund Raiser month and there are lots of Free Gifts to be had with > your qualifying Contribution. Please make a Contribution to support the > continued operation and upgrade of these great services!!! Thank you! > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Administrator > > > -- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2006
From: "JOSEPH MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS" <lbmathias(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Vacuum Pump
Has anyone put a wet vacuum pump on the Jabiru 3300? Thanks, Linda Mathias ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: WLAS [Please Read]
Dear Listers, I sat down at the 'ol computer tonight to have a look at a few of the nice comments List Members have been including along with their Contributions this year. I was amazed at how many I found and even more amazed at some of the very nice things Listers have been saying about the Lists and how valuable the they are to them. I've included quite a few of these nice comments below. Please read over some of this great Lister feedback. No doubt you will find that you agree with at least one or two of those comments - maybe all of them! If you find that do, won't you please make a Contribution to support these Lists today!! Its fast and easy with the Matronics List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Don't forget that I've now fully implemented the new *List Fund Raiser Squelch* feature that will automatically intercept any future iterations of my "Please Contribute" messages -- that is, *once you've made YOUR Contribution*! How cool is that? (Make sure the email address you enter along with your Contribution matches exactly your subscribed List email address. An exact match is how it works.) Thank you for your generous Contributions this year and for all the wonderful comments!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ================= What Listers Are Saying (WLAS) ================ Absolutely the best deal on the Internet!! -Owen B I love The Matronics... -Robeto B My wife has her soaps & I've got my lists! -Hal B These lists are, indeed, the lifeline of our hobby. -Bob R The best source of information for my a/c. -Tony C The Zenith list is the first thing I read in the morning. -Herbert H You do more good than you can imagine. I wish I'd known about you while I was building my Kitfox, but you are still an after-the-fact resource. -Ben B ..an excellent site. -Ashley M The "List" has been the ultimate help for my Zenith CH 701 project!! -Brian U I appreciate the list being here for me. -Geoff H ..a great service. -William C The List continues to be an interesting and useful facility. -David M Your list is a constant goad to keep me working on my project. -Thomas S ..a great service. -Robert W The Pietenpol list is a great resource. -Benjamin W The Yak-list is Awesome! -James S ..great service. -Robert S The features you have implemented recently have you poised to knock out yahoo groups... -Danny D I like how your forum looks/works and the list service... -Ken E ..great service. -David P Very useful web site. -Wayne E ..a very valuable service. -Chris D Great sites... -Randall R I used to look at [that other] site also but it's gotten so cluttered with advertising that I've stopped looking at it. -Wayne E Without your services, the build would be a grope in the dark... -Fergus K The information and help I've received greatly outweighs the donation... -Lee P ..great service! -Christopher D I really don't think I could be building my plane without the wisdom I find on this list. -William G It really makes building a pleasure. -James P ..great service. -Doug W I'm getting near the end of my build (Europa tri XS) don't think I could have done it with out the help of the forum. -Stanislaus S Marvelous service. Couldn't have done it without you. -Jim G Love the list, this is a wonderful way to help others... -Michael S ..good service. -Derek L The list is responsible for helping me complete this project and educating me in the process. -Jeff D Definitely worth the donation. -Ron L ..great service to the aviation community. -Tony P I have been flying my plane for 5 years (RV-6) but I still get valuable information from this service. -Don N A very helpful site. -Roland S It's a great community to be part of. -David L Great sites. -John C A great place to find and share not only information but to meet people across the country and make lasting relationships. -Uncle Craig Great facility. -Peter H Its a great source of information! -Michael W Great improvements to the List... -Edward A Great service!!! -Rich D ..great resource! -William C ..excellent lists! -Michael S Couldn't have built my RV4 without the list. -Warren M ..a great service... -James N I would not have missed [the list] for anything during the building of my Europa. -Svein J ..another great year. -Robert D ..this [is an] essential builder's resource. -David A ..excellent service. -Gregory B I've learned a huge amount of "stuff" over the past year and look forward to it every day! -Smith M ..a great communication tool... -Jon M Finished building 5 years ago, but still are lurking on your great list! -Lothar K ..a valuable service. At 11:00 pm Matronics is the goto place for my RV questions. -Mike D ================= What Listers Are Saying (WLAS) ================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: LOC
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by popping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Value...
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least 0 or 0 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some lame magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that same amount and get a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to think of it, you do... Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support YOUR Lists? Contribution Page: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Why? [Please Read]
Dear Listers, Each year I like to explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide a superior experience over the commercial equivalents. I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to sell little-blue-pills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year during November to encourage members to support the Lists. I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer many benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first feature I believe to be significant is that you cannot receive a computer v*rus from any of these Lists directly. Each incoming message is filtered and dangerous attachments stripped off prior to posting. I also provide a Photo and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and simple. Another very important feature of this system in my opinion is the extensive List Archives that are available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the way back to the very beginning of each List and with the very fast Search Engine, the huge size of some of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the data you're looking for. And added just this year is the new Email List Forum that allows members who prefer the Web BBS-style of List interaction. The beauty of the new List Forums is that they contain the exact same content that is distributed via email. Messages posted via email are cross-posted to the respective Forum and vice versa. The Forums also allow for another convenient method of sharing pictures and other files. Additionally added this year is the new List Wiki that allows members to build their own "Online List Encyclopedia" of sorts, documenting various aspects of their project for all to share. I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew and who where also building RVs. It has grown into nearly 70 different aviation-related Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 23,000,000 hits each year!! Additionally, the List Email system forwarded well over 87,000 postings last year, accounting for an unbelievable 39,000,000 (yes, that's 39 MILLION) email messages delivered to Matronics List subscribers! I think there's a lot of value in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and improving a high quality service all _without any advertising budget_! I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email Message, Search the Archives, use the List Browser, or surf the Forums and Wiki sites. The Lists will be here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free, that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual List Fund Raiser! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: List Value...
Date: Nov 21, 2006
pls remove Cheathco ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 2:39 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: List Value... If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least 0 or 0 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some lame magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that same amount and get a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to think of it, you do... Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support YOUR Lists? Contribution Page: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Date: Nov 22, 2006
remove ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 3:01 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2006
From: Mike Moore <soarmoore2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Already contributed. Can I get off the solication list? M2 Charles Heathco wrote: remove ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 3:01 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: More Great List Comments - Please Make A Contribution!
Dear Listers, There's a little less than one week left for this year's List Fund Raiser. I thought it would a great time to share a few more of the great comments I've been receiving from Contributors regarding what the Lists mean to them. There are some particularly poignant ones in this batch and I encourage you to have a look at some of them. Don't forget that once you make your Contribution, the Contribution Squelch kicks in and you won't receive any future messages from me regarding the Fund Raiser this year! This holds true for the Realtime and Digest distributions and now also the HTML and TXT links included with the Digest! (Note that for technical reasons, if someone replies to one of my contribution messages, the Squelch will _not_ be activated, and you will still receive it. Contribution messages will also still be found on the Forums site and the List Browse). Please make your Contribution today to support these List services! Pick up a great Gift too! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ Tackling my project without the List would be like building on a deserted island. The List has made me part of a learning (and laughing) community. -Larry W Thank you for providing such a fantastic resource for us Kolbers. I'm very happy to contribute towards keeping such a wonderful resource available. -Geoff T ..you do a great service for the flying community by providing this service. -John L ..solidly administered. -James C A great source of information. -Ralph S The Lists have likely saved a numbers of lives... -James F ..exceptional user service. -Larry W Better than a magazine! -Aaron G Thanks to your List I will be able to finish and fly my project. Without the help of the great people on your List I doubt it would have happened. -Ed G I learn something on a too regular basis thanks to these lists! -Ralph C ..valuable service. -John F ..a well administered service. -Stewart C Great forum! -Ronald C A great service! -Andy H Been reading the lists since my first RV in 1999. Good work and as necessary to me as a rivet. -Albert G The lists are a great help. -Gary S This resource has been critical to my building success so far. -Timothy F Great system and support! -Richard P Very helpful in the building my CH 701. -Ralph S Another year of entertainment and pleasure! -Larry B A great resource for all of us. -Larry W Another year of great service! Once again, the information is worth more than I can ever contribute. Thank you also for the "community" that the List fosters. I cannot tell you the number of times that seeing an friend's name come up has caused so many awesome memories to come flooding back - along with the eager desire to gather with these great guys again. I love hearing the beginner's enthusiasm, the builder's progress, and the flyer's success... -Robert B Our list has great info and I love reading the "Flame Posts! " -Stephen M Great service! -James B Excellent source of information. -David P You provide a very valuable service to the aviation community. -David H The RV related lists have been a tremendous help in the construction of my RV-7... -Norman R Awesome list!! -John E Great bunch of guys and very knowledgeable! -Herbert G Thank you for making it so easy to stay in touch with my fellow RV-10 builders. -David J I love the list and have been a reader for a long time. -James V Continues to be a great service! -George A Awesome List server. -Deke M Many of us would never finish our airplanes without [the List]. With it, I'm getting close! -Ronald C An excellent source of both information and inspiration! -William R Forums and format are easy to use. -Jack B Great help with my kit building. -Ralph H Super service. -Richard N Still loving it. -Jared S You have a fantastic web! -Harvey R ..a great service. -James M Glad you are there... -David A I get some great information on your list. -John P Fantastic service. Couldn't have made it as far as I have without it. -Stephen T A great learning experience with my RV-6A. -Ron B Great resources! -Jason H Well done. Very valuable. -Jeffrey D Great resource for the experimental aircraft community. -Chris H This List has been one of the most helpful tools in building my RV-10, since I build alone, and do not have any help readily available. Without the List, I could not have embarked on building my RV-10. -Jim H You run a great list there. -James H Really like the Kolb List. -Don W ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List of Contributors Coming Soon - Make Sure You're
Listed! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, the List seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all? :-) Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by droping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Who is "Matt Dralle" & What Are "The Lists"? [Please
Read] Dear Listers, Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in the information technology industry for over 20 years primarily in computer networking design and implementation. I have also done extensive work in web development and CGI design during this period. I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders from around the world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds of aircraft related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few. For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers here locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter, a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business T1 Internet connection with full static addressing. The computer servers found here include a brand new, quad-processor Xeon Linux server for List web services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system dedicated to the email processing List functions, and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard drive-based backup system with 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage, soon to be upgraded to over 6 Terra Bytes! This entire system is protected by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are available even during a local power outage! Speaking of power, imagine how much electricity it takes to run all of these systems. One month this Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for electricity alone! I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer Center for the Matronics Email Lists. This year I added another rack to house the new MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't quite fit into the first rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center before the addition of the second rack: http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister. But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It is supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you... and YOU! To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running! Please make a Contribution today to support these Lists! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, Well, its November 30th and that means three things... 1) Today I am now officially 43 years old... (arg...) 2) It marks that last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser! 3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year! :-) If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way to further the List operation and keep the bills paid. I will be posting the List of Contributors next week, so make sure your name is on it! :-) Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly appreciated. List Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "E.T.Gmerek" <jptook(at)jptook.cnc.net>
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/02/06
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I'm new to the Jabiru Engine list, and have just acquired a 601 XL with a 3300A Jabiru Engine, Serial # 33A641. The plane still has 14 hours of its mandated 40 to be flown off in the Houston, TX, area. Can other XL/Jabiru 3300A owners give me an idea of their CHTs? This airplane is showing 366F on the number 6 cylinder, Grand Rapids EIS. The builder added the carburetor economy change. The plane has the standard Zenith/Jabiru FWF cowling and 'air leaks' have been plugged with foam. It has the carbon Sensenich prop. The high temp does not occur during climb out but when throttled back to ~2750 and also does not cool down on descent/approach for landing. As I am about 1500 miles from the plane at this time, I retained an A&P to attempt to resolve the issue through baffling. The previous owner/builder tried relocating the carburetor slightly at the suggestion of Jabiru, and has played with baffling to no avail. I am aware that at approximately 26 to 30 hours run time that the engine may not be fully broken in. Oil change and re-torque of the heads occurred at 25 hours. I would appreciate any information XL/Jab owners might have regarding their maximum CHT temps, especially #6. Along the same line, have any 3300A owners gone to an AeroCarb over the Bing for mixture control/lower EGT/CHT Temps? Thanks, Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matt & Jo" <archermj(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Fw: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I have a Jabiru 3300 and have a 702-1 starter contactor from B&C. I have a question about the solenoid supplied with the Jabiru. I am considering just hooking up the 702-1 contactor directly to the starter. It looks like the "solenoid" supplied by Jabiru is really just another contactor. It is wired and works the same as the 702-1 but with out the diode. I am planning on hooking up the contactor similar to what is depicted in aeroelectric Z-20. There it has the lead off of the 702-1 contactor hooked to the Jabiru solenoid. It sure looks to me that all I will be doing is putting two contactors in series. I am not sure of the value in this. I am considering just leaving off the Jabiru solenoid and connecting the 702-1 directly to the starter. Is this smart or is there something I am missing? Thanks Matt www.zodiacxl.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Hi Matt, I'm no expert on Jabiru or engines in general, but I was an electrical engineer for many years. So, take my suggestion as a starting point rather than a final word . . . I think the point of the battery contactor on an airplane is to shut down all electrical power for fire prevention (well, almost prevention) in case of a forced landing. It is also nice for stopping an electrical fire. The starter solenoid (technically, it is a relay since its purpose is to switch electricity rather than perform a mechanical function) is in place to allow switching of the huge current needed to start the engine. You will not find a panel mounted switch that will switch more than 20 or 30 amps, and I think starters can use more like 100 amps. So the way to think of the starter solenoid is to consider it a switch extension for the starter current. These are two completely different functions that cannot be combined in one switch. I would suggest the "Battery Master" contactor be installed near the battery (wherever it winds up being installed. The starter solenoid should be installed with either a separate cable to the battery or to the master contactor output. It shouldn't matter if it is directly connected to the battery since it won't get any power unless the starter swtich on the instrument panel is activated. Similarly, it can work through the master contactor just as well as with a direct battery connection. The difference will only be really noticeable if you have to run an additional heavy cable from the engine compartment to the battery if it is installed in the rear portion of the plane. If you study the specifications for both of these components you will probably find the starter solenoid is only meant to be turned on for short periods while the master contactor is meant to be turned on for many hours at a time. These are not interchangeable parts. If my guess is correct, the diode is meant to clamp the coil on the solenoid. This prevents the natural tendency of any coil to increase its voltage in attempt to continue current flow when the circuit is opened. The diode will prevent high voltage (perhaps very high voltage) from appearing on the battery circuit when the starter is turned off. Some planes are equipped with an "Avionics Master" switch which also deals with this kind of problem, but the diode is a lot smaller and less expensive to install. I would recommend putting power diodes on both solenoid/contactors. They are installed to be inactive when power is applied for normal function between the two sides of the coil. Good luck, Paul Still working on airframe - engine to follow soon . . . At 06:54 PM 12/6/2006, you wrote: > >I have a Jabiru 3300 and have a 702-1 starter contactor from B&C. I >have a question about the solenoid supplied with the Jabiru. I am >considering just hooking up the 702-1 contactor directly to the >starter. It looks like the "solenoid" supplied by Jabiru is really >just another contactor. It is wired and works the same as the 702-1 >but with out the diode. I am planning on hooking up the contactor >similar to what is depicted in aeroelectric Z-20. There it has the >lead off of the 702-1 contactor hooked to the Jabiru solenoid. It >sure looks to me that all I will be doing is putting two contactors >in series. I am not sure of the value in this. I am considering >just leaving off the Jabiru solenoid and connecting the 702-1 >directly to the starter. > >Is this smart or is there something I am missing? > >Thanks >Matt ><http://www.zodiacxl.com>www.zodiacxl.com --------------------------------------------- Paul Mulwitz 32013 NE Dial Road Camas, WA 98607 --------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2006
From: Clive James <zcrj90(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Hi Matt and Paul, =0A =0APaul's summed up the issues and I've already wired my latest Jabiru as he has recommended. =0A=0AThe only issue he didn't men tion is starter solenoid sticking.=0A=0AWhat do you do in the unlikely even t that the starter solenoid (contactor/relay) sticks closed? =0A=0AWith the master contactor powering everything you merely open the master and all go es quiet. If the starter solenoid is wired direct you can't do this. A 'sta rter engaged warning light' powered from the starter feed is also a good id ea to warn you off this problem.=0A=0ARegards, Clive=0A=0AP.S. I've sent my latest wiring diagram to you direct for information. If you see anything w rong with it let me know!=0A=0ASend instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N1BZRich(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
In a message dated 12/7/2006 3:09:53 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, zcrj90(at)yahoo.co.uk writes: P.S. I've sent my latest wiring diagram to you direct for information. If you see anything wrong with it let me know! Clive, Would you mind sharing your wiring diagram with our EAA Chapter. We are building a 601XL and are about ready to hang the engine for the final time. It is in my hangar and I hope to make the initial flight sometime relatively soon. Blue Skies, Buz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: Fw: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Matt, As others have said, you want to have the Jabiru-supplied solenoid (contactor) wired only for the engine starter. The starter will pull up to 700 amps on initial contact and if there's any additional resistance in the starter circuit it will degrade starting performance. If you want to fit a master relay for other panel power, keep it separate. Hope this helps, Andy Suncoast Sportplanes, Inc. 39248 South Ave. Zephyrhills, FL 33542 Tel: 813 779 2324 Fax: 813 779 2246 www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt & Jo Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:55 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Fw: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid I have a Jabiru 3300 and have a 702-1 starter contactor from B&C. I have a question about the solenoid supplied with the Jabiru. I am considering just hooking up the 702-1 contactor directly to the starter. It looks like the "solenoid" supplied by Jabiru is really just another contactor. It is wired and works the same as the 702-1 but with out the diode. I am planning on hooking up the contactor similar to what is depicted in aeroelectric Z-20. There it has the lead off of the 702-1 contactor hooked to the Jabiru solenoid. It sure looks to me that all I will be doing is putting two contactors in series. I am not sure of the value in this. I am considering just leaving off the Jabiru solenoid and connecting the 702-1 directly to the starter. Is this smart or is there something I am missing? Thanks Matt www.zodiacxl.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matt & Jo" <archermj(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Thanks for the reply. I probably didn't explain my question correctly. I have been using the Aeroelectric semantics for my basic set up. Follow this link to my schematic http://www.zodiacxl.com/Electrical.html I have a continuous duty contact (701-1 from B&C http://www.bandcspecialty.com ) as my battery contactor and the 702-1 intermittent contactor as my starter contactor. The Aeroelectric (http://www.aeroelectric.com/ ) figure for the Jabiru (Figure Z-20) shows the starter contactor energizing the Jabiru "Solenoid". But the Jabiru solenoid is set up the same and looks functionally similar to the 702-1 contactor. I have the specs on the 702-1 but nothing on the Jabiru solenoid. I am planning on just using the 702-1 and hooking it up to the starter. What I think happened with the Jabiru hook up from Aeroelectric is that they didn't have the current Jabiru solenoid in mind when they came up with their layout for the Jabiru (Figure Z-20). It looks like they just have the two contactors in series which does not make sense to me for the starter part of the circuit. Thanks for the help Matt www.zodiacxl.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Mulwitz To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:10 PM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Fw: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid Hi Matt, I'm no expert on Jabiru or engines in general, but I was an electrical engineer for many years. So, take my suggestion as a starting point rather than a final word . . . I think the point of the battery contactor on an airplane is to shut down all electrical power for fire prevention (well, almost prevention) in case of a forced landing. It is also nice for stopping an electrical fire. The starter solenoid (technically, it is a relay since its purpose is to switch electricity rather than perform a mechanical function) is in place to allow switching of the huge current needed to start the engine. You will not find a panel mounted switch that will switch more than 20 or 30 amps, and I think starters can use more like 100 amps. So the way to think of the starter solenoid is to consider it a switch extension for the starter current. These are two completely different functions that cannot be combined in one switch. I would suggest the "Battery Master" contactor be installed near the battery (wherever it winds up being installed. The starter solenoid should be installed with either a separate cable to the battery or to the master contactor output. It shouldn't matter if it is directly connected to the battery since it won't get any power unless the starter swtich on the instrument panel is activated. Similarly, it can work through the master contactor just as well as with a direct battery connection. The difference will only be really noticeable if you have to run an additional heavy cable from the engine compartment to the battery if it is installed in the rear portion of the plane. If you study the specifications for both of these components you will probably find the starter solenoid is only meant to be turned on for short periods while the master contactor is meant to be turned on for many hours at a time. These are not interchangeable parts. If my guess is correct, the diode is meant to clamp the coil on the solenoid. This prevents the natural tendency of any coil to increase its voltage in attempt to continue current flow when the circuit is opened. The diode will prevent high voltage (perhaps very high voltage) from appearing on the battery circuit when the starter is turned off. Some planes are equipped with an "Avionics Master" switch which also deals with this kind of problem, but the diode is a lot smaller and less expensive to install. I would recommend putting power diodes on both solenoid/contactors. They are installed to be inactive when power is applied for normal function between the two sides of the coil. Good luck, Paul Still working on airframe - engine to follow soon . . . At 06:54 PM 12/6/2006, you wrote: I have a Jabiru 3300 and have a 702-1 starter contactor from B&C. I have a question about the solenoid supplied with the Jabiru. I am considering just hooking up the 702-1 contactor directly to the starter. It looks like the "solenoid" supplied by Jabiru is really just another contactor. It is wired and works the same as the 702-1 but with out the diode. I am planning on hooking up the contactor similar to what is depicted in aeroelectric Z-20. There it has the lead off of the 702-1 contactor hooked to the Jabiru solenoid. It sure looks to me that all I will be doing is putting two contactors in series. I am not sure of the value in this. I am considering just leaving off the Jabiru solenoid and connecting the 702-1 directly to the starter. Is this smart or is there something I am missing? Thanks Matt www.zodiacxl.com --------------------------------------------- Paul Mulwitz 32013 NE Dial Road Camas, WA 98607 --------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2006
From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Hi Clive, I took a quick look at your wiring diagram. This is the first time I have actually seen one for a plane, so many things were new to me. First, let me say the diodes are correctly wired up for the solenoid and relay. If you put these in backwards, they will probably blow out as soon as the battery is connected due to very large current and no fuse. That suggests the idea that a fuse for the actuator coil circuit would be in order. I have no idea how much current might be conducted through the coil since there is no load resistor for this DC circuit. There may be one installed in the actual solenoid or an implied resistance from the wiring of the coil. Probably the standard practice would be the thing to do. If this were not a circuit that has been wired up a few million times per year since the flood, I would include a resistor and fuse in the actual switching circuit for the master relay and also the starter solenoid. There does seem to be a fuse for the starter solenoid called "Instruments" and limited to 10 amps. Again, I have no idea how much current the starter solenoid uses for switching the primary current to the starter. I would suggest a review of the fuel pump circuits by someone more experienced than me. The diodes look funny. I can't imagine what their purpose might be. Also, I don't see the point of having 10 amp fuses in series to each fuel pump. One for each pump should suffice. If two are needed for some reason then it seems the first one should be 20 amps to allow for each fuel pump to draw 10 amps as allowed by its fuse. I am also a little confused by the alternator hookup. This is no surprise since I have no experience with this kind of circuit. My memory as a Cessna pilot is that there should be separate master switches for the alternator circuit and battery circuit. This allows for separate control so a faulty circuit can be shut down while still supplying power to avionics and other stuff. This diagram seems to wire both sides of the master switch for battery function and not any for the alternator. Again, I would suggest a review of this function by someone more familiar with common practice in airplanes than I have. Best regards, Paul At 12:08 AM 12/7/2006, you wrote: >Hi Matt and Paul, > >Paul's summed up the issues and I've already wired my latest Jabiru >as he has recommended. > >The only issue he didn't mention is starter solenoid sticking. > >What do you do in the unlikely event that the starter solenoid >(contactor/relay) sticks closed? > >With the master contactor powering everything you merely open the >master and all goes quiet. If the starter solenoid is wired direct >you can't do this. A 'starter engaged warning light' powered from >the starter feed is also a good idea to warn you off this problem. > >Regards, Clive > >P.S. I've sent my latest wiring diagram to you direct for >information. If you see anything wrong with it let me know! > >Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com --------------------------------------------- Paul Mulwitz 32013 NE Dial Road Camas, WA 98607 --------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2006
From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Matt & Jo a crit : > Thanks for the reply. I probably didn't explain my question > correctly. I have been using the Aeroelectric semantics for my basic > set up. Follow this link to my schematic > http://www.zodiacxl.com/Electrical.html > > Matt and all, Had a quick glance at the diagram. Very close to the Aeroelectric Z 16. A very good basis indeed. As already mentioned, it is important to have the battery contactor power everything in the ship, including the starter contactor. Thus you have some control in case of starter contactor sticking. Besides, you comply with the FARs which require that no big wire be "hot" when the master switch is off. It is a safety issue. I do not concur with the "starter direct from the battery" opinion. Very large aviation engines, with lots more cranking amps than the little Jabiru are using the battery contactor architecture. I would like to point out that the "avionics and lights" bus switch is a single point of failure. Should the switch fail, you lose all radios, lights, low-voltage warning, fan (?) and all ... Have you considered feeding the radio and transponder from the E-bus ? Apart from this point, your architecture seems very sound to me. As for the rest of your message, I'm not sure what the point is with the Jabiru starter solenoid. Regards, Gilles Thesee Grenoble, France http://contrails.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matt & Jo" <archermj(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Thanks for your review. I struggled with the radio and transponder on the E bus at first. My logic for taking it off is that if I do have a problem I want the minimum to get it down. Really don't need the radio and transponder for that. Plus they present a significant load. So I moved them over to the avionics buss. I uploaded my final diagram to my website. This one removed the Jab solenoid and I made some other changes. http://www.zodiacxl.com/Electrical.html I would like to say this is the final. But I will probably change it a couple of more times. I also have a copy of the Delta CAD file if anyone is interested. Thanks for all the comments. Cheers Matt www.zodiacxl.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:14 PM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid > <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> > > Matt & Jo a crit : >> Thanks for the reply. I probably didn't explain my question correctly. >> I have been using the Aeroelectric semantics for my basic set up. Follow >> this link to my schematic >> http://www.zodiacxl.com/Electrical.html >> > > Matt and all, > > Had a quick glance at the diagram. Very close to the Aeroelectric Z 16. A > very good basis indeed. > As already mentioned, it is important to have the battery contactor power > everything in the ship, including the starter contactor. Thus you have > some control in case of starter contactor sticking. Besides, you comply > with the FARs which require that no big wire be "hot" when the master > switch is off. It is a safety issue. > I do not concur with the "starter direct from the battery" opinion. Very > large aviation engines, with lots more cranking amps than the little > Jabiru are using the battery contactor architecture. > > I would like to point out that the "avionics and lights" bus switch is a > single point of failure. Should the switch fail, you lose all radios, > lights, low-voltage warning, fan (?) and all ... > Have you considered feeding the radio and transponder from the E-bus ? > > Apart from this point, your architecture seems very sound to me. > > As for the rest of your message, I'm not sure what the point is with the > Jabiru starter solenoid. > > Regards, > Gilles Thesee > Grenoble, France > http://contrails.free.fr > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics Fund Raiser - 2006 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser only underscores the great sentiments people have made regarding the Lists. If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please feel free to do so. The nice List gifts will be available on the site for just a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution and get your great gift. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site is: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises ( http://www.kitlog.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Paul, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated! And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2006 List of Contributors current as of 12/7/06! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser! THANK YOU! http://www.matronics.com/loc/2006.html I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped via US Postal Service. Kitlog Pro serial numbers should go out via email this weekend. Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
From: "vozzen" <vozzen(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2006
Matt-- On taking redio and transponder off the E-bus: I think you'll find that the radio, on receive, takes minimal current. The transponder could be left in standby (ident/on when needed), also using little juice. And do you have ON/OFF switch on each? Dont forget, the master relay (unless you're using the Z-20 (IIRC) version without it) pulls about 1 amp, probably as much as both radio and xponder on "idle". In other words, why not leave radios on Ebus, so they are available, if needed, without the master being on. I agree on your orginal question that the starter relay and "solenoid" are redundant. [is it ever really "final"??] --Rico, XL/3300, modified Z-16 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p133#80133 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kayberg(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 08, 2006
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
I suppose I should keep my mouth shut, but in case there are other folks who are daunted by the diagram Modified Z-16, I want to affirm your desire for simplicity. I am impressed by the efforts of Vozzen and Rico. I dont mind the efforts of electical engineers to plan for every possible failure mode. I understand that some experimental aircraft builders want to build an electrical system to rival any of the General Aviation fleet. But there is another strategy. If you are careful about the avionics you purchase, use some common sense and dont install a comprehensive lighting system ( how badly do you want to crash at night? .... if you dont have lights you wont be tempted..) and are willing to just read your own voltmeter, you can have a simple system that can be installed in a few hours instead of a few months. It is ok to use a couple toggle switches for your ignition kills. It is ok to just run breaker switches or switch and fuse to a couple radios. If you keep your electical loads down, then you dont need much of an alternator. As you may know, if you have too big a load on the Jabiru alternator, you can crispy the stator. You can add another seperate alternator, but why would you want to? The notion of a solonoid operated by a master switch sounds good, but if the wire or coil in it goes south, so does your electrical power. That may balance the possiblity of shorting the big wire to the starter solonoid. If you are building a small, high performance bird like a Sonex and want to make it IFR, by all means design and build as complicated an electrical system as possible. May I suggest autopilot, a Garmin radio stack, electrical gyros and a seat warmer? The extra time it takes to build all that will prolong your life just that much longer. I am just saying that IN MY OPINION, it is perfectly OK to only have a couple circuits. One for the start, one for the radios and one for a couple other small things. If you are a bit paranoid, then include a switch in the charging circuit so you can shut off the alternator power to the battery if your volt meter gets too high. Hook the power circuits to the post on the starter solonoid that the big battery cable goes to...just so it is easier to disconnect the battery. It is true that if the solonoid sticks, you will have some drama while the starter twirls the engine until the battery dies...but when is the last time your car did that to you? It is wired the same way. Just buy a new start solonoid every 500 hours or so. That should preclude the arcing from dirt. Ok, so let the reactions begin. I'm sure I deserve to be flamed. Doug Koenigsberg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2006
From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Doug, > Hook the power circuits to the post on the starter solonoid that > the big battery cable goes to...just so it is easier to disconnect the > battery. It is true that if the solonoid sticks, you will have some > drama while the starter twirls the engine until the battery dies... The use of a battery contactor (be it relay or manually actuated) is mainly related to fire hazard. What is the rationale for keeping an always hot fat wire and not being able to to cope with a sticking starter solenoid ? Does it really bring any advantage over state-of-the-art aviation architecture ? > but when is the last time your car did that to you? Hmm, there have been some starter issues. I'll try to stay away from car related "when is the last times" about Jabiru. Maybe when the dust settles down and those SBs are relaxed ;-) Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr > I ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kayberg(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 08, 2006
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
In a message dated 12/8/2006 7:08:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr writes: Doug, > Hook the power circuits to the post on the starter solonoid that > the big battery cable goes to...just so it is easier to disconnect the > battery. It is true that if the solonoid sticks, you will have some > drama while the starter twirls the engine until the battery dies... The use of a battery contactor (be it relay or manually actuated) is mainly related to fire hazard. What is the rationale for keeping an always hot fat wire and not being able to to cope with a sticking starter solenoid ? Does it really bring any advantage over state-of-the-art aviation architecture ? > but when is the last time your car did that to you? Hmm, there have been some starter issues. I'll try to stay away from car related "when is the last times" about Jabiru. Maybe when the dust settles down and those SBs are relaxed ;-) Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2006
From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Hi Doug, Rather than flame you, I want to thank you for extending the conversation on electrical design. I am new to this issue and am happy to consider different ways to go. I am building a Zodiac XL for (primarily) day VFR use. I definitely appreciate the starter motor over hand propping, and would like to have enough radios to penetrate busy airspace. Still, I opted for navigation and strobe lights. On the other hand, I don't really need fault tolerance to insure safe flight completion. I guess I would like to understand the simplest approach to electrical system design. From that point it makes sense to consider things like master contactors to deal with possible electrical fires and things like that. For general consideration about adding parts to an airplane I will attempt to quote the designer of a plane I built many years ago. He suggested: "Throw it up in the air. If it comes down it is too heavy." Best regards, Paul At 03:27 PM 12/8/2006, you wrote: >I suppose I should keep my mouth shut, but in case there are other >folks who are daunted by the diagram Modified Z-16, I want to affirm >your desire for simplicity. I am impressed by the efforts of Vozzen >and Rico. I dont mind the efforts of electical engineers to plan for >every possible failure mode. I understand that some experimental >aircraft builders want to build an electrical system to rival any of >the General Aviation fleet. > >But there is another strategy. If you are careful about the avionics >you purchase, use some common sense and dont install a >comprehensive lighting system ( how badly do you want to crash at >night? .... if you dont have lights you wont be tempted..) and are >willing to just read your own voltmeter, you can have a simple >system that can be installed in a few hours instead of a few months. > >It is ok to use a couple toggle switches for your ignition >kills. It is ok to just run breaker switches or switch and fuse to >a couple radios. If you keep your electical loads down, then you >dont need much of an alternator. As you may know, if you have too >big a load on the Jabiru alternator, you can crispy the stator. You >can add another seperate alternator, but why would you want to? > >The notion of a solonoid operated by a master switch sounds good, >but if the wire or coil in it goes south, so does your electrical >power. That may balance the possiblity of shorting the big wire to >the starter solonoid. > >If you are building a small, high performance bird like a Sonex and >want to make it IFR, by all means design and build as complicated an >electrical system as possible. May I suggest autopilot, a Garmin >radio stack, electrical gyros and a seat warmer? The extra time >it takes to build all that will prolong your life just that much longer. > >I am just saying that IN MY OPINION, it is perfectly OK to only have >a couple circuits. One for the start, one for the radios and one >for a couple other small things. If you are a bit paranoid, then >include a switch in the charging circuit so you can shut off the >alternator power to the battery if your volt meter gets too >high. Hook the power circuits to the post on the starter solonoid >that the big battery cable goes to...just so it is easier to >disconnect the battery. It is true that if the solonoid sticks, you >will have some drama while the starter twirls the engine until the >battery dies...but when is the last time your car did that to >you? It is wired the same way. Just buy a new start solonoid >every 500 hours or so. That should preclude the arcing from dirt. > >Ok, so let the reactions begin. I'm sure I deserve to be flamed. > >Doug Koenigsberg - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kayberg(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 08, 2006
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Bonjour Gilles, I am the proud USA importer of the French kit airplane, the Sky Ranger! Phillippe Prevot of Best Off has done a great job of designing a strong, light, quick to build craft. ( see _www.skyranger.net_ (http://www.skyranger.net) or our website, _www.skyrangeraircraft.com_ (http://www.skyrangeraircraft.com) ) My thoughts are from my experience with installing a Jabiru 2200 in a Sky Ranger and a 3300 in a Lightning. I just run the large power wire about 6" to the starter solenoid. I would attached fused or breaker protected circuits from the post there to elsewhere. If one of them were to short, I would expect protection to kick in or if it shorted on the way to the breaker, I would expect the wire to just fry without much damage. The runs are short and the firewall penetration carefully protected. I note that the same large 6" wire would go to the master solenoid and then another 6" wire would to to the Jab start solenoid. No real difference in protection for the large wire. In either case it has a 6" unprotected run. But if the master solenoid, which must be continously held in place by current were to experience low voltage, coil failure, switch failure or a wire break then all power would be lost......unless one has a backup circuit that bypasses the master....which is the situation I began at. I understand that popular aviation thought is in love with the master solenoid, but I am wondering if it adds complexity and vulnerability to solve an unlikely problem...on very simple light airplanes. I like them more on GA airplanes with their 60 -100 amp circuits with retractable gear, lights, dog polishers and window foggers. Part of my other work involves control circuits in ground equipment and they do short out and melt down. The damage is minimal usually for small guage wires...the sizes used for 10 amps or less. Of course a short can cause a fire but there must be combustables nearby and the insulation must be combustable. Otherwise a brief arc, a brief smell and it is all over. If a starter solenoid actually stuck, it will just keep turning the engine untill the battery power is drained or the starter melts down. While disconcerting, it would happen on the ground and be over quickly. No so if your master solenoid craps out in the air. You lose radios, EIS, intercom, flaps and whatever else you power. Worse, you may not be able to replace it easily on the ground. Without it you could not start up and fly somewhere for another one. I mentioned the failure of an auto start solonoid because the Jab part is one!. Jabiru tries to use common auto parts where possible. Ca va? Doug In a message dated 12/8/2006 7:08:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr writes: --> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr> Doug, > Hook the power circuits to the post on the starter solonoid that > the big battery cable goes to...just so it is easier to disconnect the > battery. It is true that if the solonoid sticks, you will have some > drama while the starter twirls the engine until the battery dies... The use of a battery contactor (be it relay or manually actuated) is mainly related to fire hazard. What is the rationale for keeping an always hot fat wire and not being able to to cope with a sticking starter solenoid ? Does it really bring any advantage over state-of-the-art aviation architecture ? > but when is the last time your car did that to you? Hmm, there have been some starter issues. I'll try to stay away from car related "when is the last times" about Jabiru. Maybe when the dust settles down and those SBs are relaxed ;-) Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr > I ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Grant Piper" <grant.piper(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Date: Dec 09, 2006
I'm a late starter to this topic, but I applaud Doug's pleas to keep it simple. Less things, less to go wrong. My RV-4 with Lyc has a Datsun alternator, Odyssey battery and no lights or gyros at all. It is legal at that. I do use a Master relay, but eliminated the separate starter relay when I saw that my starter had a piggyback relay as per a car. Yes, my starter cable is 'live' all the time the Master is on, but if I have a short I can isolate it by switching the Master off. Yes, I will lose all power, but it is a VFR aircraft so that isn't a biggie. Keep it simple, spend the dollars saved on avgas, and go flying this year instead of the next. Grant Piper RV-4 VH-PIO 260hrs. SAAA (TC) ----- Original Message ----- From: Kayberg(at)aol.com To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 10:27 AM Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid I suppose I should keep my mouth shut, but in case there are other folks who are daunted by the diagram Modified Z-16, I want to affirm your desire for simplicity. I am impressed by the efforts of Vozzen and Rico. I dont mind the efforts of electical engineers to plan for every possible failure mode. I understand that some experimental aircraft builders want to build an electrical system to rival any of the General Aviation fleet. But there is another strategy. If you are careful about the avionics you purchase, use some common sense and dont install a comprehensive lighting system ( how badly do you want to crash at night? .... if you dont have lights you wont be tempted..) and are willing to just read your own voltmeter, you can have a simple system that can be installed in a few hours instead of a few months. It is ok to use a couple toggle switches for your ignition kills. It is ok to just run breaker switches or switch and fuse to a couple radios. If you keep your electical loads down, then you dont need much of an alternator. As you may know, if you have too big a load on the Jabiru alternator, you can crispy the stator. You can add another seperate alternator, but why would you want to? The notion of a solonoid operated by a master switch sounds good, but if the wire or coil in it goes south, so does your electrical power. That may balance the possiblity of shorting the big wire to the starter solonoid. If you are building a small, high performance bird like a Sonex and want to make it IFR, by all means design and build as complicated an electrical system as possible. May I suggest autopilot, a Garmin radio stack, electrical gyros and a seat warmer? The extra time it takes to build all that will prolong your life just that much longer. I am just saying that IN MY OPINION, it is perfectly OK to only have a couple circuits. One for the start, one for the radios and one for a couple other small things. If you are a bit paranoid, then include a switch in the charging circuit so you can shut off the alternator power to the battery if your volt meter gets too high. Hook the power circuits to the post on the starter solonoid that the big battery cable goes to...just so it is easier to disconnect the battery. It is true that if the solonoid sticks, you will have some drama while the starter twirls the engine until the battery dies...but when is the last time your car did that to you? It is wired the same way. Just buy a new start solonoid every 500 hours or so. That should preclude the arcing from dirt. Ok, so let the reactions begin. I'm sure I deserve to be flamed. Doug Koenigsberg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2006
From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Grant, > Yes, my starter cable is 'live' all the time the Master is on, but > if I have a short I can isolate it by switching the Master off. Yes, > I will lose all power, but it is a VFR aircraft so that isn't a biggie. Correct. This is how any aircraft should be wired. > > Keep it simple, spend the dollars saved on avgas, and go flying this > year instead of the next. Perfectly right. The problem is, some builders confuse 'simple' with over simplistic, or try to take short cuts on safety by 'simplifying' the thinking process before building. For those who think the electrical circuit is worth some consideration, a visit to http://www.aeroelectric.com will prove very informative. Regards, Gilles Thesee Grenoble, France http://contrails.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2006
From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Hi Doug, > I am the proud USA importer of the French kit airplane, the Sky Ranger! Yes everyone here knows the Sky Ranger. > Ranger and a 3300 in a Lightning. > > I just run the large power wire about 6" to the starter solenoid. I > would attached fused or breaker protected circuits from the post there > to elsewhere. If one of them were to short, I would expect protection > to kick in or if it shorted on the way to the breaker, I would expect > the wire to just fry without much damage. The runs are short and the > firewall penetration carefully protected. If complexity (and maybe weight) is a consideration, why use breakers at all ? Fuses would just do, with lower cost, installation complexity and weight. > > I note that the same large 6" wire would go to the master solenoid and > then another 6" wire would to to the Jab start solenoid. No real > difference in protection for the large wire. In either case it has a > 6" unprotected run. The battery contactor is to be located as close to it's battery as physically possible. The role isn't to protect wires (they are large, and won't fry), but to disconnect the ship's circuit from any source of electricity. If the component are close together, you may consider a metal strap instead of a wire. Still simpler. > But if the master solenoid, which must be continously held in place > by current were to experience low voltage, coil failure, switch > failure or a wire break then all power would be lost......unless one > has a backup circuit that bypasses the master....which is the > situation I began at. The goal of the electrical circuit designer is to minimise the fire and fault hazard. The only way to experience low voltage is low battery and/or faulty charging circuit. The engine is not electrically dependent, and I suppose that in the USA, ultralights only fly day VFR ? No critical circuit to keep running. So why take shortcuts on safety for fear of lacking of electricity ? > I understand that popular aviation thought is in love with the master > solenoid, but I am wondering if it adds complexity and vulnerability > to solve an unlikely problem...on very simple light airplanes. Simplicity should be in the aircraft, not in the designer/builder efforts in design. It takes much thinking to design a really simple and reliable aircraft system. Popular aviation would really benefit from carefully engineered and crafted systems : I recently had to troubleshoot a poorly wired ultralight (not a Sky). Really poor craftsmanship from the importer... > I like them more on GA airplanes with their 60 -100 amp circuits with > retractable gear, lights, dog polishers and window foggers. ;-))) > > ..... Of course a short can cause a fire but there must be > combustables nearby and the insulation must be combustable. Otherwise > a brief arc, a brief smell and it is all over. Yeah, that's what is often experienced in ultralights. Sparcs and arcs, and flat batteries. Auto PVC spaghetti wire everywhere, control cables and rods rubbing against structure (yes sir, even on Sky Rangers) The reputation of sloppy craftsmanship is unfortunately sometimes deserved... If I happened to buy an aircraft and experienced even the briefest of arc ans smell, I'd have some 'interesting' discussion with the seller... > > If a starter solenoid actually stuck, it will just keep turning the > engine untill the battery power is drained or the starter melts > down. While disconcerting, it would happen on the ground and be over > quickly. No so if your master solenoid craps out in the air. You > lose radios, EIS, intercom, flaps and whatever else you power. You really would shed circuit protection and good wiring practice just for fear of losing flaps when turning the master off ? Would no flaps on a Sky Ranger really be a problem ? BTW, in a car, you also lose many thing when turning the keyswitch off. Have you considered subscribing to the Aeroelectric List on Matronics ? Much interesting matters, and opportunity to discuss electrical options much more in-depth Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2006
From: Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
Hi Gilles, The new Light Sport Airplane rule in the USA allows for either day/VFR or Night and/or IFR operations. Of course, there are extra equipment requirements for night or IFR operations. It is the Sport Pilot rule that limits pilots (rather than aircraft) to day/VFR operations. The much older "Ultralight" in the USA is not worthy of any serious flight including daytime. I don't think anyone would consider flying one of those "Flying lawn chairs" at night. Those "Ultralights" are limited to one seat, 5 gallons of fuel, maximum empty weight of 254 pounds, and a maximum cruise speed around 60 mph. I have been following your discussion of the need for the master contactor on an airplane. I remain unconvinced either way about the need for this device. It is relatively clear it can be used to deal with in-flight fires, and it also might be used to make sure all equipment is really off when the plane is finished for the day. If there is a switch installed on the battery circuit for all devices except the starter, then normal sized wiring and switch could be used. This approach would use a solenoid for the starter connected in parallel to the battery. The only obvious risk with this approach is that the starter solenoid gets stuck or activated without the pilot's desire. This seems unlikely and un-harmful even if it does occur. Perhaps I am missing something important. It seems that the expense in cost, weight, and electrical load imposed by the master contactor is only there to deal with the unlikely problem of a run-away starter solenoid. Paul Zodiac XL builder - nearing completion of fuselage >I suppose that in the USA, ultralights only fly day VFR ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kayberg(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 10, 2006
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
In a message dated 12/9/2006 10:44:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr writes: Have you considered subscribing to the Aeroelectric List on Matronics ? Much interesting matters, and opportunity to discuss electrical options much more in-depth Best regards, Gilles _http://contrails.free.fr_ (http://contrails.free.fr) Good thoughts on your Previous post, Gilles. I have to have some restrictions on my subscribing. I am already on 5 or 6!. I will think about it tho. Perhaps you are trying to gently tell me my ignorance is showing!!! Doug ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2006
From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Subject: Re: Jabiru Starter contactor and solenoid
> > I will think about it tho. Perhaps you are trying to gently tell me > my ignorance is showing!!! Doug, I just reviewed the latest diagrams on the Aeroelectric Connection, and you know what ? There is a suggestion for a simple Jabiru or Rotax circuit with NO battery contactor ! So dispensing with the battery contactor in a simple circuit might not appear so much of a problem after all... My apologies for being so affirmative before checking everything. Best regards, Gilles http://contrails.free.fr > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cy" <cygan(at)optusnet.com.au>
Subject: OIL COOLER
Date: Dec 17, 2006
G'Day from OZ, I have Series V Kitfox with a Jabiru 3300 engine. If anyone has that combination I'd like to hear from them about the mounting of the oil cooler and the results that got reference oil temperature. Cheers from Australia. Cy VH-XCY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com>
Subject: OIL COOLER
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Cy, Oil cooler selection, particularly in a hot climate is more about what you can accommodate in the cowling than the engine's specific requirements. In short, the bigger the better and if the weather turns cool and your oil temp in cruise drops below (say) 85C then you can blank-off the part of the cooler to raise the temp. Here in USA we use either the lighter / smaller automotive oil cooler (about 11x5x1.5 inches) or nowadays I prefer the Positech PC4211 which is a purpose-made aircraft cooler but more expensive and thicker, more like a 'brick' in shape and not as easy to accommodate in the cowling. It does, however cool better. Coolers are generally mounted on brackets below the engine and provided with some anti-vibration damping, like using wiring grommets between the mount screws and the brackets, but it obviously depends on where the air inlet on the cowl is. It's also important with any cooler to ensure the air is ducted onto the cooler so that none escapes around it - this gets you the best oil cooling efficiency and doesn't disturb the cylinder cooling airflow in the cowl. You want to be running oil temps between about 85C and 110C. Andy Silvester www.suncoastjabiru.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cy Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 4:05 AM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: OIL COOLER G'Day from OZ, I have Series V Kitfox with a Jabiru 3300 engine. If anyone has that combination I'd like to hear from them about the mounting of the oil cooler and the results that got reference oil temperature. Cheers from Australia. Cy VH-XCY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave" <ieadave(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: loss of oil.
Date: Jan 07, 2007
Has anyone experienced the loss of oil at the oil cooler adaptor housing O ring? I'm new to flying with a Jabiru engine. My Indus Thorepedo has only 30 hours on a 2200 engine. I experienced a loss of oil due to a faulty or undersized O ring on the oil cooler adapter. In addition I am a little concerned about how the whole oil filter assembly is attached to the engine block. It seems to me that the entire assembly is dependent on twisting the oil filter in place. It appears that the force of the torque on the filter carries through the oil cooler adaptor. It is the compressed O ring face against the block that holds the oil cooler adaptor assembly in place. When the leak became evident it was possible to hand twist the oil cooler adaptor about a 1/8 of a turn at the engine block. Jabiru just sent me a replacement adaptor to be installed and needless to say I'll be checking the attachment during preflights and keeping a close watch on the gages in flight. Dave Sneddon N211YY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Arthur Holtzman" <aholt11552(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: loss of oil.
Date: Jan 08, 2007
----- Original Message ----- From: Dave To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 10:57 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: loss of oil. Has anyone experienced the loss of oil at the oil cooler adaptor housing O ring? I'm new to flying with a Jabiru engine. My Indus Thorepedo has only 30 hours on a 2200 engine. I experienced a loss of oil due to a faulty or undersized O ring on the oil cooler adapter. In addition I am a little concerned about how the whole oil filter assembly is attached to the engine block. It seems to me that the entire assembly is dependent on twisting the oil filter in place. It appears that the force of the torque on the filter carries through the oil cooler adaptor. It is the compressed O ring face against the block that holds the oil cooler adaptor assembly in place. When the leak became evident it was possible to hand twist the oil cooler adaptor about a 1/8 of a turn at the engine block. Jabiru just sent me a replacement adaptor to be installed and needless to say I'll be checking the attachment during preflights and keeping a close watch on the gages in flight. Dave Sneddon N211YY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: loss of oil.
Date: Jan 08, 2007
Hi! Arthur In the absence of any other advices from anyone else to get you "on your way" I can advise that I had a similar problem on a 3300 engine in that the "o" ring was inclined to squeeze out so that when you removed the cooler "dohnut" the "o" ring had some extrusion like marks. Firstly I made sure that the "o" ring was lightly greased on fitment to ensure it doesn't roll up as the filter canister is tightened. This did stop the leaks generally but I was hesitant to over tighten the canister. Latterly I redesigned the system entirely making the oil cooler selectable and meterable. This utilised a slightly thicker "donut" to enable the application of standard adapter screw in fittings with doughty washers sealing them on spot facings on the "donut" perimeter. This gave me the opportunity to slightly reduce the "o" ring groove depth after that I never had a problem except I did tighten it more than hand tight. I would suggest (without liability!) that you have 0.005" skimmed off that side of the "donut" and if that doesn't work another similar slice but no more than 0.010" total. This will increase the nip on the "o" ring. Have fun ! Regards Bob Harrison. Robt.C.Harrison -----Original Message----- From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Arthur Holtzman Sent: 08 January 2007 09:12 Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: loss of oil. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave <mailto:ieadave(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 10:57 PM Subject: JabiruEngine-List: loss of oil. Has anyone experienced the loss of oil at the oil cooler adaptor housing O ring? I'm new to flying with a Jabiru engine. My Indus Thorepedo has only 30 hours on a 2200 engine. I experienced a loss of oil due to a faulty or undersized O ring on the oil cooler adapter. In addition I am a little concerned about how the whole oil filter assembly is attached to the engine block. It seems to me that the entire assembly is dependent on twisting the oil filter in place. It appears that the force of the torque on the filter carries through the oil cooler adaptor. It is the compressed O ring face against the block that holds the oil cooler adaptor assembly in place. When the leak became evident it was possible to hand twist the oil cooler adaptor about a 1/8 of a turn at the engine block. Jabiru just sent me a replacement adaptor to be installed and needless to say I'll be checking the attachment during preflights and keeping a close watch on the gages in flight. Dave Sneddon N211YY href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List">http://www.m atronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 2007
From: ALAN BEYER <agbeyer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: loss of oil.
Dave,=0A=0AI have a 3300 that has been in the air for two years. I had the same thing happen. The groove was too deep that holds the "O" ring.=0AI c hucked the adaptor in a lathe and turned off about .010" from the back side to increase the squish on the "O" ring. I have done this to a couple of o thers also, and now they don't leak. I also put a hose clamp around the ba se of the oil filter with the screw for the clamp to the front. I safety w ire the screw to the clamp and then wire the clamp up to the oil press. sen der to keep it from rotating.=0A=0AAL from Oshkosh=0A =0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Dave <ieadave(at)hotmail.com>=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@mat ronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, January 7, 2007 9:57:59 PM=0ASubject: JabiruEngi ne-List: loss of oil.=0A=0A=0AHas anyone experienced the loss of oil at the oil cooler adaptor housing O ring? I=A2m new to flying with a Jabiru engin e. My Indus Thorepedo has only 30 hours on a 2200 engine. I experienced a loss of oil due to a faulty or undersized O ring on the oil cooler adapter . In addition I am a little concerned about how the whole oil filter assemb ly is attached to the engine block. It seems to me that the entire assembly is dependent on twisting the oil filter in place. It appears that the forc e of the torque on the filter carries through the oil cooler adaptor. It is the compressed O ring face against the block that holds the oil cooler ad aptor assembly in place. When the leak became evident it was possible to ha nd twist the oil cooler adaptor about a 1/8 of a turn at the engine block. Jabiru just sent me a replacement adaptor to be installed and needless to say I=A2ll be checking the attachment during preflights and keeping a clos = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: loss of Oil
Date: Jan 08, 2007
Dave, I have over 190 hrs now on my Jab 3300A with no problems with the "O" ring on the oil cooler adapter. Also, like others I safety the filter. I put a band of rubber tape around the filter body (for chafe protection) and then install a hose clamp on the filter. I then safety wire the hose clamp to the oil press sender. Tony Graziano Zodiac 601XL; N493TG ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: UMA Tach install, Jab 2200
From: "Dan Mc Intyre" <danm(at)gangnailtruss.com>
Date: Jan 09, 2007
I'm installing a UMA tachometer in my kitfox model iv with the 2200 engine. The tach instructions state to hook the tach to the postive side of the "exciter" on the Jab before the regulator. Can anyone help here, I'm not sure were to hook the lead on the exciter? Thanks -------- Dan Mc Intyre Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86523#86523 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kayberg(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 2007
Subject: Re: UMA Tach install, Jab 2200
In a message dated 1/9/2007 9:45:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, danm(at)gangnailtruss.com writes: --> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Dan Mc Intyre" I'm installing a UMA tachometer in my kitfox model iv with the 2200 engine. The tach instructions state to hook the tach to the postive side of the "exciter" on the Jab before the regulator. Can anyone help here, I'm not sure were to hook the lead on the exciter? Thanks Why not call UMA? _UMA Instruments_ (http://aolsearch.aol.com/aol/redir?src=websearch&requestId=b823a209027272b6&clickedItemRank=3&userQuery=UMA&clickedItemURN=http://www.um ainstruments.com/&title=UMA+Instruments&moduleId=stgD_matchingsites.jsp.M&clic kedItemPageRanking=-7&clickedItemPage=2&clickedItemDescription=WebResults) UMA, Inc. 260 North Main St. Dayton,VA 22821 (540) 879-2040 Voice (540) 879-2738 Fax Toll Free (48 States) (800) 842-5578 ...


September 12, 2004 - January 09, 2007

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