Kitfox-Archive.digest.vol-ax
July 23, 2004 - August 08, 2004
> >Even though I've got way to much on my plate I've finally made a
decision
to
> >drop everything and go to Oshkosh this year and I'll be staying in Camp
> >Scholler registered in the camp locator as Darrel Morisse. Anyway some
of
> >us can meet up somewhere for some face time? Somewhere on the property
or
> >maybe the Acey Ducey bar (sp?)? It'd be a shame for all of us to be
there
> >and not make some sort of contact. Also, if you're staying in camp
> >scholler, drop the list a quick line and I'll do my best to look you up.
> >Make sure you register in the camp locator or we can't find you. I'll
be
> >arriving Sunday evening and leaving Friday morning. Hope to see some of
> >you.
> >Darrel
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "NSI AERO" <info(at)nsiaero.com> |
Now that sounds like a good idea Peter.
See you at Oshkosh and have a enjoyable, safe flight.
Lance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Graichen
Subject: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh
Planning to arrive at OSH Monday afternoon.
N10PG will be on parked at the NSI display area, spaces 426 & 427 I'll be
staying at the university dorms and can be found most evenings at Kelly's
sipping beer.
Peter Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skyflyte(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Fact or Tales? |
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> A question concerning the Kitfox model 3 (and probably others) elevator
> asymmetry.
Dan Denny told me that the elevator on my model II was "twisted", because a perfectly
flat one would tend to "hunt" when flying at cruise. Whatever! It is
meant to be that way, leave it alone!
Mike Cannon
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
A question concerning the Kitfox model 3 (and probably others) elevator
asymmetry.
Dan Denny told me that the elevator on my model II was "twisted", because a perfectly
flat one would tend to "hunt" when flying at cruise. Whatever! It is meant
to be that way, leave it alone!
Mike Cannon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I am a bit dissapointed because Aircraft Spruce hasn't |
yet a...
This is for the Guy trying to contact aircraft spruce.I've never gone more
than a day befor getting a response.Contact the customer service it's on the
website.I know through experience that problems get supervisor attention and
one time Jim Erwin e-mailed me.They are the best supplier Homebuilding has but,
they have problems just like any company
Best David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sad Day in Cameron Park |
Lowell
This is indeed bad news. It is much worse in such a close community. Our
thoughts and prayers are with you.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)inreach.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Sad Day in Cameron Park
>
> This afternoon a Robinson Exec. had a main rotor blade - according to
witness - separate from the rotor assembly and it crashed into a house near
the airport. Bill Finke a resident of Airpark Estates was killed in the
accident and the house was destroyed by the ensuing fire. No one on the
ground was hurt.
>
> Bill was an extraordinary man. His interest in aviation fed his main
interest in serving the people of Tanzania where he spent alternate three
months periods. His airplanes were used in his missionary work there.
When home, he spent countless hours in his hangar refurbishing airplanes
that he would then ship to Africa, sometimes ferrying them there himself.
>
> It was his plan to use the Robinson to travel to the local airport from
his compound in the outlying area. A trip that took several hours on
primitive trails by automobile, but would take only a few minutes by air.
>
> The Robinson had recently been fitted with a new tail boom and rotors as
the original ones had been damaged in a landing accident.
>
> Bill and I flew together once and I have several minutes of him and his
helicopter in the air on video . I thought the Kitfox flew low and slow.
>
> Sadly,
>
> Lowell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wwillyard(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce |
For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request for more
information on the Maul P8B tundra tailwheel about two weeks ago and have had no
response as well.
Bill Willyard
Grandville MI USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Jones <fire_n_ice(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Short bearings |
Secondly, on the Model 4 with the airfoiled vertical tail kit, it says to
set the top gap (between the vert stab and rudder) at 1.5" and the bottom
gap at 2.3". The problem is that the bearings aren't long enough the get
that much gap at the bottom. By the way, this is a 10 year old model with 4
bearings (the top 3 are
> 10-32 and the bottom one is 1/4-28). These are the bearings that the
previous owner had put on the plane and appears to be correct as per the old
manual. Thanks.
> Bill
Bill,
Just a guess on your rudder. Your kit is the same era as my Classic
4...1994. This was during the transition from the "Model 4-1200 to the
"Classic 4". Skystar also produced the XL for a short period then. My
Classic 4 kit contained parts labeled for all three of these models. I
think they were clearing out all the left over parts from the two
discontinued 4s.
My Classic 4 has only three rod ends to connect the rudder to the vertical
stab. All three are 1/4-28. My manual shows 4 (top three 10-32 and bottom
one 1/4-28). The "revised" manual shows the 3 rod end set up. Your problem
might be that the wrong rod ends to connect the rudder were shipped with
your kit. You may need to talk with one of the "Old timers" at Skystar, or
someone on the list with the 4 bearing set up might be able to measure
theirs and help you out.
Tom Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Jones <fire_n_ice(at)direcway.com> |
>
> "no flights above 10,000' MSL or 2,000' AGL, whichever is higher"
>
> The above comment is from a short version of the Sport Pilot rule and is
> giving me a complete brain loss. My field is at 43' sea level....Does the
above
> mean I can fly at 10,000' MSL or am I limited to 2,000' AGL. For some
reason,
> the above statement makes no sense. What am I missing?
Don,
You can go to 10000 MSL. You can go to 12000 MSL and be at 2000 AGL when
you cross the mountains that are 10000 feet high.
Tom Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Spruce |
Not to make excuses for them, but that was probably about when they started
packing up for Oshkosh. I'm sure that all that's minding the store right
now is the "skeleton crew" as they send a fairly large contingent on the
road. I'm sure they're all there by now and setting up their display.
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: <Wwillyard(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Aircraft Spruce
>
> For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request for more
> information on the Maul P8B tundra tailwheel about two weeks ago and have
had no
> response as well.
>
> Bill Willyard
> Grandville MI USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and only
got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around and
went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can pull
the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so it'll
have to wait.
My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny how
it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
input?
Darrel
S5/NSI/CAP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Wells" <georgewells(at)adelphia.net> |
My Model 4 Speedster presently has 600x6 tires mounted on Matco W62 Wheels.
I am planning on replacing them with 700x6 tires. My problem is the only
tubes I can find have straight valve stems and the Matco W62 requires a stem
offset 90 degrees to go thru the valve stem hole.
Does anyone know where I can find 700x6 tubes with a 90 degree off set ??
Thanks -- George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Hi Darrel,
It may have just backed out a bit. Operating at high
oil pressure for longer periods like we do is probably
the culprit.
A while back there was someone selling home made oil
seal retainers for $30 to keep that from happening.
It was right when I was just joining the list, so I am
guessing that this has been a problem before. Thye
only had 2 left then and I didn't buy one, but you
might be able to make your own. Their's was a ring
with a tab that connects to a near by engine bolt.
You also might be able to just tap it back in place if
you use a large socket/pipe to get it in straight, but
a better long term method is to drain the oil and
remove the seal and clean it up before replacing it.
My Chilton's shows the seal, but it doesn't give a
part number. Sorry. Refer to a 1984 Soob Brat (?) at
your nearest dealer, if you replace it. It is the
auto front seal of course. :-)
Best info I have for you.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Fox5flyer wrote:
>
> I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have
> breakfast and and only
> got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not
> good) so I turned around and
> went back home. After popping the cowling I found
> that my rear main oil
> seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for
> awhile until I can pull
> the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh
> in the morning so it'll
> have to wait.
> My question is can anybody give me the part number
> for the seal? Funny how
> it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe
> it popped out? Any
> input?
> Darrel
> S5/NSI/CAP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Thanks Kurt. I recall something about the oil seal popping out and I think
I bought one of those retainers back before my airplane was even flying, but
I'll have to look around for it. My oil pressure runs about 75 lbs cold and
45 hot, but I can't see how that can have any effect on it. Isn't it the
crankcase pressure that tries to force the seals out? I think (our late)
Mike Harter had the same problem and he said the seal was rock hard, not
flexible like it should have been. Replacement appears to me to be a
complete engine removal, not something I wanted to do during the summer, but
I guess if it's gotta be done, it's gotta be done. This is the first real
problem I've had with my soob. Bummer.
Darrel
S5/NSI/CAP
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
> Hi Darrel,
>
> It may have just backed out a bit. Operating at high
> oil pressure for longer periods like we do is probably
> the culprit.
>
> A while back there was someone selling home made oil
> seal retainers for $30 to keep that from happening.
> It was right when I was just joining the list, so I am
> guessing that this has been a problem before. Thye
> only had 2 left then and I didn't buy one, but you
> might be able to make your own. Their's was a ring
> with a tab that connects to a near by engine bolt.
>
> You also might be able to just tap it back in place if
> you use a large socket/pipe to get it in straight, but
> a better long term method is to drain the oil and
> remove the seal and clean it up before replacing it.
>
> My Chilton's shows the seal, but it doesn't give a
> part number. Sorry. Refer to a 1984 Soob Brat (?) at
> your nearest dealer, if you replace it. It is the
> auto front seal of course. :-)
>
> Best info I have for you.
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
> --- Fox5flyer wrote:
> >
> > I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have
> > breakfast and and only
> > got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not
> > good) so I turned around and
> > went back home. After popping the cowling I found
> > that my rear main oil
> > seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for
> > awhile until I can pull
> > the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh
> > in the morning so it'll
> > have to wait.
> > My question is can anybody give me the part number
> > for the seal? Funny how
> > it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe
> > it popped out? Any
> > input?
> > Darrel
> > S5/NSI/CAP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Graichen" <n10pg(at)neo.rr.com> |
Darrel:
The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But you
should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available from
Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your problem
for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
Peter Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and only
got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around and
went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can pull
the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so it'll
have to wait.
My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny how
it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
input?
Darrel
S5/NSI/CAP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Thanks Peter. I'd forgotten that I've got a Soob service manual. I can
probably get the part from NAPA locally since there're no Soob dealers
within about 100 miles. I just did a shop search and found the retainer.
Was there any problem removing the pulley?
I'll be looking for you over at the NSI tent. If you get thirsty, look me
up in Camp Scholler. I'll be listed in the locator as
Darrel Morisse
>
> Darrel:
> The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But you
> should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available from
> Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your problem
> for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
>
> Peter Graichen
> http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and only
> got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
and
> went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
pull
> the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so it'll
> have to wait.
> My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
how
> it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> input?
> Darrel
> S5/NSI/CAP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh frequencies |
Does anybody have a current listing of the ATC frequencies that'll be used
at Oshkosh? When I'm sitting around the camp I like to listen to the action
on my handheld.
Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John E. King " <kingjohn(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh frequencies |
Darrel,
The Oshkosh VFR Arrival frequencies are as follows:
Arrival ATIS 125.9
FISK Approach 120.7
North Tower RWY 09/27 118.5
South Tower RWY 18/36 126.6
Unicom 122.95
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Fox5flyer wrote:
>
>Does anybody have a current listing of the ATC frequencies that'll be used
>at Oshkosh? When I'm sitting around the camp I like to listen to the action
>on my handheld.
>Darrel
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh frequencies |
Perfect! Thanks John. Hope to see you there.
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: "John E. King " <kingjohn(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh frequencies
>
> Darrel,
>
> The Oshkosh VFR Arrival frequencies are as follows:
>
> Arrival ATIS 125.9
> FISK Approach 120.7
> North Tower RWY 09/27 118.5
> South Tower RWY 18/36 126.6
> Unicom 122.95
>
> --
> John King
> Warrenton, VA
>
>
> Fox5flyer wrote:
>
> >
> >Does anybody have a current listing of the ATC frequencies that'll be
used
> >at Oshkosh? When I'm sitting around the camp I like to listen to the
action
> >on my handheld.
> >Darrel
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh anybody? |
Lowell, how do I find you in the homebuilt area. Will you be camped with
your Fox? White? I'm outta here first thing in the morning.
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)inreach.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
> Darrel,
>
> I know of four that will be hooking up in the Denver area that plan on
> being there Sunday through Tuesday. Our group will be leaving the
> Sacramento area of Northern California Tomorrow morning to hook up with
> another at Afton Wyoming in the evening. Our group will consist of 4 or 5
> Kitfoxes - all Model IVs and two Rans - one a Coyote and the other a
> Courier. Plans call for a Sunday evening arrival. Current plans call for
a
> Friday departure. We will be camping in the home built area.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us>
> To:
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> >
> > Even though I've got way to much on my plate I've finally made a
decision
> to
> > drop everything and go to Oshkosh this year and I'll be staying in Camp
> > Scholler registered in the camp locator as Darrel Morisse. Anyway some
of
> > us can meet up somewhere for some face time? Somewhere on the property
or
> > maybe the Acey Ducey bar (sp?)? It'd be a shame for all of us to be
there
> > and not make some sort of contact. Also, if you're staying in camp
> > scholler, drop the list a quick line and I'll do my best to look you up.
> > Make sure you register in the camp locator or we can't find you. I'll
be
> > arriving Sunday evening and leaving Friday morning. Hope to see some of
> > you.
> > Darrel
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | This is for the Guy trying to contact aircraft spruce |
Thanks David,
I did get a response of sorts after posting. I just
jumped in a bit quick supporting someone else that hadn't heard back. The
only thing was they didn't answer my question re their product but instead
informed me that they have appointed Terry Adair as agent for Australia and
New Zealand. He is operating out of Melbourne and has a deal for cheap
freight from USA to Australia. I have already been in touch with him and his
service is very good. Anyone over this way can contact him at
terryadair(at)netspace.net.au
Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: This is for the Guy trying to contact aircraft spruce |
Good to hear it Rex
I've gotten pretty mad at them and once got an email from Jim Erwin
CEO of ACS they've always made it right. Hope your man down there will be as
good
Good Luck
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net> |
The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal is
the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which do
you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if it
the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to remove
the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even be
able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them the
part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the seal
a thou or two larger O.D.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
Graichen
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
Darrel:
The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But you
should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available from
Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your problem
for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
Peter Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and only
got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around and
went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can pull
the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so it'll
have to wait.
My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny how
it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
input?
Darrel
S5/NSI/CAP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Thanks Rick. When I said "rear seal" I meant at the firewall end, which is
actually the front seal, but only if it's sitting in a car, but it's not a
car, it's in an airplane, so I'm calling it the rear seal. We confused yet?
Anyway, you say I can replace it without removing the engine? That would
sure be nice. Have you done it? Seems pretty tight back there. Don't I
need to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've found the part number so
I'll check NAPA for the part. I've also found an online Soob parts dealer
that has it in stock. Shipping is more than the cost of the seal. I may
just order it anyway so it'll be here when I get back from the Mecca.
Darrel
>
> The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal
is
> the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which
do
> you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if
it
> the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to
remove
> the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
> simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even be
> able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them the
> part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the
seal
> a thou or two larger O.D.
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
> Graichen
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> Darrel:
> The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But you
> should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available from
> Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your problem
> for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
>
> Peter Graichen
> http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and only
> got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
and
> went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
pull
> the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so it'll
> have to wait.
> My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
how
> it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> input?
> Darrel
> S5/NSI/CAP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net> |
You will need a puller. The NSI pulley is aluminum so be careful. There are
threaded holes in the pulley, cant remember most likely standard not metric
since it is NSI not Subaru. Those can be used with a simple puller. Be sure
you get the keyway lined up on install and use flange sealant per manual on
the bolt. Lube the seal inside not outside, use a large socket to set it
even. Take your time. Get a step stool, mirror if need be and light. If you
need any further I would be glad to help.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
Thanks Rick. When I said "rear seal" I meant at the firewall end, which is
actually the front seal, but only if it's sitting in a car, but it's not a
car, it's in an airplane, so I'm calling it the rear seal. We confused yet?
Anyway, you say I can replace it without removing the engine? That would
sure be nice. Have you done it? Seems pretty tight back there. Don't I
need to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've found the part number so
I'll check NAPA for the part. I've also found an online Soob parts dealer
that has it in stock. Shipping is more than the cost of the seal. I may
just order it anyway so it'll be here when I get back from the Mecca.
Darrel
>
> The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal
is
> the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which
do
> you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if
it
> the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to
remove
> the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
> simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even be
> able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them the
> part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the
seal
> a thou or two larger O.D.
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
> Graichen
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> Darrel:
> The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But you
> should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available from
> Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your problem
> for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
>
> Peter Graichen
> http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and only
> got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
and
> went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
pull
> the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so it'll
> have to wait.
> My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
how
> it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> input?
> Darrel
> S5/NSI/CAP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD HUTSON" <rhutson(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Napa may have the puller that you can rent for a day, most auto parts stores
have specially tools that they loan or rent to customers.
Wouldn't hurt to ask...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Thanks Rick. I just ordered the seal online from
https://ssl.autocenter.net/subaruparts so it should be here when I get home
next week. I think I have the puller that I need.
Darrel
>
> You will need a puller. The NSI pulley is aluminum so be careful. There
are
> threaded holes in the pulley, cant remember most likely standard not
metric
> since it is NSI not Subaru. Those can be used with a simple puller. Be
sure
> you get the keyway lined up on install and use flange sealant per manual
on
> the bolt. Lube the seal inside not outside, use a large socket to set it
> even. Take your time. Get a step stool, mirror if need be and light. If
you
> need any further I would be glad to help.
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> Thanks Rick. When I said "rear seal" I meant at the firewall end, which
is
> actually the front seal, but only if it's sitting in a car, but it's not a
> car, it's in an airplane, so I'm calling it the rear seal. We confused
yet?
> Anyway, you say I can replace it without removing the engine? That would
> sure be nice. Have you done it? Seems pretty tight back there. Don't I
> need to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've found the part number so
> I'll check NAPA for the part. I've also found an online Soob parts dealer
> that has it in stock. Shipping is more than the cost of the seal. I may
> just order it anyway so it'll be here when I get back from the Mecca.
> Darrel
> >
> > The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal
> is
> > the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which
> do
> > you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if
> it
> > the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to
> remove
> > the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
> > simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even
be
> > able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them
the
> > part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the
> seal
> > a thou or two larger O.D.
> >
> > Rick N656T
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
> > Graichen
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> >
> > Darrel:
> > The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> > department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But
you
> > should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available
from
> > Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your
problem
> > for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
> >
> > Peter Graichen
> > http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> > I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and
only
> > got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
> and
> > went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> > seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
> pull
> > the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so
it'll
> > have to wait.
> > My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
> how
> > it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> > input?
> > Darrel
> > S5/NSI/CAP
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Any particular brand of flange sealant you'd recommend?
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
> You will need a puller. The NSI pulley is aluminum so be careful. There
are
> threaded holes in the pulley, cant remember most likely standard not
metric
> since it is NSI not Subaru. Those can be used with a simple puller. Be
sure
> you get the keyway lined up on install and use flange sealant per manual
on
> the bolt. Lube the seal inside not outside, use a large socket to set it
> even. Take your time. Get a step stool, mirror if need be and light. If
you
> need any further I would be glad to help.
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> Thanks Rick. When I said "rear seal" I meant at the firewall end, which
is
> actually the front seal, but only if it's sitting in a car, but it's not a
> car, it's in an airplane, so I'm calling it the rear seal. We confused
yet?
> Anyway, you say I can replace it without removing the engine? That would
> sure be nice. Have you done it? Seems pretty tight back there. Don't I
> need to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've found the part number so
> I'll check NAPA for the part. I've also found an online Soob parts dealer
> that has it in stock. Shipping is more than the cost of the seal. I may
> just order it anyway so it'll be here when I get back from the Mecca.
> Darrel
> >
> > The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal
> is
> > the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which
> do
> > you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if
> it
> > the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to
> remove
> > the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
> > simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even
be
> > able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them
the
> > part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the
> seal
> > a thou or two larger O.D.
> >
> > Rick N656T
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
> > Graichen
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> >
> > Darrel:
> > The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> > department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But
you
> > should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available
from
> > Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your
problem
> > for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
> >
> > Peter Graichen
> > http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> > I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and
only
> > got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
> and
> > went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> > seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
> pull
> > the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so
it'll
> > have to wait.
> > My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
> how
> > it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> > input?
> > Darrel
> > S5/NSI/CAP
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Zakreski <szakreski(at)shaw.ca> |
Keep good notes Darrel. Mine looks like it is starting to drip.
SteveZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
Thanks Rick. I just ordered the seal online from
https://ssl.autocenter.net/subaruparts so it should be here when I get home
next week. I think I have the puller that I need.
Darrel
>
> You will need a puller. The NSI pulley is aluminum so be careful. There
are
> threaded holes in the pulley, cant remember most likely standard not
metric
> since it is NSI not Subaru. Those can be used with a simple puller. Be
sure
> you get the keyway lined up on install and use flange sealant per manual
on
> the bolt. Lube the seal inside not outside, use a large socket to set it
> even. Take your time. Get a step stool, mirror if need be and light. If
you
> need any further I would be glad to help.
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> Thanks Rick. When I said "rear seal" I meant at the firewall end, which
is
> actually the front seal, but only if it's sitting in a car, but it's not a
> car, it's in an airplane, so I'm calling it the rear seal. We confused
yet?
> Anyway, you say I can replace it without removing the engine? That would
> sure be nice. Have you done it? Seems pretty tight back there. Don't I
> need to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've found the part number so
> I'll check NAPA for the part. I've also found an online Soob parts dealer
> that has it in stock. Shipping is more than the cost of the seal. I may
> just order it anyway so it'll be here when I get back from the Mecca.
> Darrel
> >
> > The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal
> is
> > the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which
> do
> > you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if
> it
> > the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to
> remove
> > the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
> > simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even
be
> > able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them
the
> > part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the
> seal
> > a thou or two larger O.D.
> >
> > Rick N656T
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
> > Graichen
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> >
> > Darrel:
> > The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> > department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But
you
> > should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available
from
> > Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your
problem
> > for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
> >
> > Peter Graichen
> > http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> > I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and
only
> > got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
> and
> > went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> > seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
> pull
> > the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so
it'll
> > have to wait.
> > My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
> how
> > it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> > input?
> > Darrel
> > S5/NSI/CAP
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net> |
You can get the loctite stuff, a bit pricy or get thread sealer from NAPP or
local store. The reason you need to seal the threads is the holes go thought
the output flange and into the crankcase.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
Any particular brand of flange sealant you'd recommend?
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
> You will need a puller. The NSI pulley is aluminum so be careful. There
are
> threaded holes in the pulley, cant remember most likely standard not
metric
> since it is NSI not Subaru. Those can be used with a simple puller. Be
sure
> you get the keyway lined up on install and use flange sealant per manual
on
> the bolt. Lube the seal inside not outside, use a large socket to set it
> even. Take your time. Get a step stool, mirror if need be and light. If
you
> need any further I would be glad to help.
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> Thanks Rick. When I said "rear seal" I meant at the firewall end, which
is
> actually the front seal, but only if it's sitting in a car, but it's not a
> car, it's in an airplane, so I'm calling it the rear seal. We confused
yet?
> Anyway, you say I can replace it without removing the engine? That would
> sure be nice. Have you done it? Seems pretty tight back there. Don't I
> need to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've found the part number so
> I'll check NAPA for the part. I've also found an online Soob parts dealer
> that has it in stock. Shipping is more than the cost of the seal. I may
> just order it anyway so it'll be here when I get back from the Mecca.
> Darrel
> >
> > The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal
> is
> > the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which
> do
> > you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if
> it
> > the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to
> remove
> > the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
> > simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even
be
> > able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them
the
> > part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the
> seal
> > a thou or two larger O.D.
> >
> > Rick N656T
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
> > Graichen
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> >
> > Darrel:
> > The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> > department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But
you
> > should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available
from
> > Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your
problem
> > for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
> >
> > Peter Graichen
> > http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> > I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and
only
> > got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
> and
> > went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> > seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
> pull
> > the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so
it'll
> > have to wait.
> > My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
> how
> > it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> > input?
> > Darrel
> > S5/NSI/CAP
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request |
for more
For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request for more
information on the Maul P8B tundra tailwheel about two weeks ago and have
had no
response as well.
As stated elswhere I also was trying to contact Aircraft Spruce too. I
eventually got a message from them re a local agent. Despite that however I
still have not been able to actually get an answer to my question. My
question was also re a replacement, pneumatic for preference, tailwheel for
my Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster. I might be dense or just not sure if the
original is Maule or not but I can't work out from the list if the wheel
that is being used will replace the standard solid wheel only or if one
needs to change the whole tail wheel assembly. One can do this through
Skystar but it is several hundred dollars and I thought what the group weas
talking about was a low cost answer.
A rough measurement is only about 4" from the centre of the axle to the
support bracket where it passes the tyre and I haven't been able to find a
tyre or tyre and wheel that will fit in that space.
My reason for wanting a pneumatic wheel is that a lot have said it is less
prone to ground loops. Also the original is very noisy and rough.
I think there is a few of us interested in clarification if someone can
do so please.
Rex Shaw
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a |
request for more
Rex
What tailwheel do you have now? If you do not know then we cannot answer
your question.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a
request for more
>
> For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request for more
> information on the Maul P8B tundra tailwheel about two weeks ago and have
> had no
> response as well.
>
> As stated elswhere I also was trying to contact Aircraft Spruce too. I
> eventually got a message from them re a local agent. Despite that however
I
> still have not been able to actually get an answer to my question. My
> question was also re a replacement, pneumatic for preference, tailwheel
for
> my Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster. I might be dense or just not sure if the
> original is Maule or not but I can't work out from the list if the wheel
> that is being used will replace the standard solid wheel only or if one
> needs to change the whole tail wheel assembly. One can do this through
> Skystar but it is several hundred dollars and I thought what the group
weas
> talking about was a low cost answer.
> A rough measurement is only about 4" from the centre of the axle to the
> support bracket where it passes the tyre and I haven't been able to find a
> tyre or tyre and wheel that will fit in that space.
> My reason for wanting a pneumatic wheel is that a lot have said it is
less
> prone to ground loops. Also the original is very noisy and rough.
> I think there is a few of us interested in clarification if someone can
> do so please.
>
> Rex Shaw
> rexjan(at)bigpond.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "P" factor-was Fact or Tales? |
OK, now you all have me confused. :-) But I can
confuse you back with the following:
The "P" factor only occurs when the prop arc is not
exactly 90 degrees to the wind. (Pitch or yaw) Or
you can say that the prop shaft is not pointed
directly into the wind, if that seems easier. If the
prop is spinning 90 degrees to the wind, it developes
the same thrust/lift entirely around its rotation and
pulls the plane evenly forward. No "P" or prop
factor.
"P" factor occurs when, say you are taking off or
climbing, and the aircraft centerline is pointed up
relative to the wind. This also points the prop shaft
up relative to the wind too. This upward angle is
like changing the prop pitch because it changes the
prop's angle of attack.
If a prop blade is momentarily horizontal to the plane
as the prop turns, the downward moving blade will have
the prop pitch plus the plane's angle of attack to
bite the air with. As the blade moves upward on the
other side, it has its pitch minus the plane's angle
of attack to work with.
Imagine that your plane is at 10 degrees angle of
attack at liftoff and the prop just happens to have 10
degrees of pitch. The downward moving blade will have
20 degrees angle of attack and the upward moving blade
will have zero. Essentially all of your thrust will
be on the side with the downward moving blade. (The
other side is creating drag in this example, but lets
not get too complex here.) As each blade rotates, it
will appear to the wind to change its pitch from zero
to 20 degrees and back again to zero as it rotates.
The blade doesn't really change itself, but the air
thinks it did.
So now your thrust is off center and you are pulled
into a turn. Note that rudder, not any twisted
horizontal surfaces are needed to correct this. It is
a little like powering down one engine on a twin
engine airplane. The thrust goes off center.
Same with yawing or slipping, except that you will
have a pitch up or pitch down tendancy depending on
which side you yaw to. Either the top or bottom blade
will have the increast pitch and the most thrust.
Then it gets really confusing when you add gyroscopic
precession... Slip stream rotation..... Torque...
etc....
Tail surface twisting and slip stream rotation or
torque might fit together, but usually the twist is
only on the verticle surfaces.
Michel. You are almost right. This statement is not
quite it though:
> "...the downward prop blade has a greater lift
> since it has less air passing it than the upward
> moving prop blade."
It isn't "less air passing it", but just more or less
pitch to move more or less air.
Ok, now I've lost it too.... :-)
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
> Hello Ted,
>
> Ted Palamarek wrote:
> > Wasn't the twist put into the elevator to take
> care of the
> > "P" factor???
>
> I am not sure of this since, as you remember, I am a
> rookie with not even 100
> hours behind the stick. But, from my amateur digital
> aero-dynamist experience,
> I seem to understand that the P-factor is actual
> when the prop is at an angle
> of incidence and the downward prop blade has a
> greater lift since it has less
> air passing it than the upward moving prop blade. A
> bit like an helicopter that
> changes the blades' pitch as it moves in front, or
> behind the direction in
> which the craft moves.
> This should then create, on my left-hand prop 582, a
> higher prop lift on my
> left, thus inducing yaw to turn to the right. I
> think that this, and the prop
> wash on the vertical stabilizer, is the reason we
> have to press the left pedal
> under take off.
> Mind you, I might be wrong and say something stupid.
> But I think that, if
> anything, the P-factor induces yaw and not roll.
> Let's see what the pros have
> to say.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Zakreski <szakreski(at)shaw.ca> I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request |
for more
| Subject: | For what its worth, |
I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request for more
Aircraft Spruce with a request for more
Rex
When did your kit ship from Skystar? That may narrow down the manufacturer.
SteveZ
Calgary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rex & Jan
Shaw
Subject: Kitfox-List: For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce
with a request for more
For what its worth, I E-mailed Aircraft Spruce with a request for more
information on the Maul P8B tundra tailwheel about two weeks ago and have
had no
response as well.
As stated elswhere I also was trying to contact Aircraft Spruce too. I
eventually got a message from them re a local agent. Despite that however I
still have not been able to actually get an answer to my question. My
question was also re a replacement, pneumatic for preference, tailwheel for
my Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster. I might be dense or just not sure if the
original is Maule or not but I can't work out from the list if the wheel
that is being used will replace the standard solid wheel only or if one
needs to change the whole tail wheel assembly. One can do this through
Skystar but it is several hundred dollars and I thought what the group weas
talking about was a low cost answer.
A rough measurement is only about 4" from the centre of the axle to the
support bracket where it passes the tyre and I haven't been able to find a
tyre or tyre and wheel that will fit in that space.
My reason for wanting a pneumatic wheel is that a lot have said it is less
prone to ground loops. Also the original is very noisy and rough.
I think there is a few of us interested in clarification if someone can
do so please.
Rex Shaw
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI idle RPM |
Howard,
Your oil cooler inlet is twice as big as mine is now,
even after I enlarged it. You shouldn't have any oil
overheating, but I see what you mean about maybe
cutting some off for winter ops.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Howard Firm wrote:
> ..........
> My inlet is 4.5" high by 7" wide....I also had to
> make a little bump under it for the oil lines.
> ..........
> Howard S-5 w/NSI turbo
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Tailwheels WAS For what its worth |
> From: Rex & Jan Shaw [rexjan(at)bigpond.com]
> A rough measurement is only about 4" from the centre of the axle to the
> support bracket
From that info, I think you have the Homebuilder Special, Rex. Reading Aircraft
Spruce web pages, I figured out this:
1) Homebuilder Special 4" weight: ? tyre: soft rubber
2) Homebulder Special 6" weight: 4.5 lbs tyre: soft rubber
3) Maule 6" Weight: 6 lbs. tyre: hard rubber
4) Maule 8" Weight: 7 lbs. tyre: pneumatic
Like you, I wish to change to a pneumatic tyre for less noise on asphalt and ...
less ground loop is cool too! :-)
But, as far as I know, none of the above tyres are interchangeable, you have to
purchase the whole assembly.
Glenn, thanks for your info on 6".
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flier" <FLIER(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheels WAS For what its worth |
I just installed the homebuilder tailwheel on my
Maule assy yesterday. Works like a charm. The Maule
bearings are 1/2" ID while the homebuilder is 5/8"
ID. Short piece of 5/8" (1/16" wall) steel tube made
a perfect bushing. Then a 1/2" flat washer under the
nut. 20 minute job max.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tailwheels WAS For what its
worth
>
>> From: Rex & Jan Shaw [rexjan(at)bigpond.com]
>> A rough measurement is only about 4" from the
centre of the axle to the
>> support bracket
>
>From that info, I think you have the Homebuilder
Special, Rex. Reading Aircraft Spruce web pages, I
figured out this:
>1) Homebuilder Special 4" weight: ? tyre: soft
rubber
>2) Homebulder Special 6" weight: 4.5 lbs tyre: soft
rubber
>3) Maule 6" Weight: 6 lbs. tyre: hard rubber
>4) Maule 8" Weight: 7 lbs. tyre: pneumatic
>
>Like you, I wish to change to a pneumatic tyre for
less noise on asphalt and ... less ground loop is
cool too! :-)
>But, as far as I know, none of the above tyres are
interchangeable, you have to purchase the whole
assembly.
>
>Glenn, thanks for your info on 6".
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>
>_-
======================================================
==================
Contributions
any other
Forums.
>_-
======================================================
==================
>_-
======================================================
==================
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
http://www.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list
http://www.matronics.com/archives
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
list
http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>_-
======================================================
==================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
I have a friend with a series V, subaru, and IVO(really heavy chord) that is not
satisfied with performance and suspecting that the prop is not appropriate fit
for plane. Does anyone know of a used warp drive 3-blade for sale?
I have a friend with a series V, subaru, and IVO(really heavy chord) that is not
satisfied with performance and suspecting that the prop is not appropriate fit
for plane. Does anyone know of a used warp drive 3-blade for sale?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net> |
I have a new Warp that needs to go away.
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
Subject: Kitfox-List: warpdrive
I have a friend with a series V, subaru, and IVO(really heavy chord) that is
not satisfied with performance and suspecting that the prop is not
appropriate fit for plane. Does anyone know of a used warp drive 3-blade
for sale?
I have a friend with a series V, subaru, and IVO(really heavy chord) that is
not satisfied with performance and suspecting that the prop is not
appropriate fit for plane. Does anyone know of a used warp drive 3-blade for
sale?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | When did your kit ship from Skystar? That may narrow down |
the manufacturer
When did your kit ship from Skystar? That may narrow down the manufacturer
I didn't build the plane but only bought it last November. I am sorry to be
arkward but I don't really know when it was shipped. I have a fair bit of
paperwork with it and I know construction took 12 months. Going on that my
best guess is that the Kit was shipped in '93 and completed in '94. However
I'm hoping this is not complicated by the fact the kit was a replacement.
The guy that built it originally built a MKIII but the aluminium wing tanks
split in flight and he wrecked the plane putting it down. Skystar [ or was
it Denney then ] gave him another kit as compensation but I don't know if
that was a full kit. I wonder if he might not have just needed the main
airframe and used some of the MKIII bits. So sorry I don't really know the
answer to your Question except to say there is only about 4" from the centre
of the axle to the support arm where it passes the tyre. It works out that
any replacent will need to be only about 7" in outside dia. The present
wheel is more of a rubber tyred roller.
When Aircraft spruce talk about 4" and 6" I assume that is the rim size. Is
that right ?
Thanks Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | What tailwheel do you have now? If you do not know then |
we cannot answer
What tailwheel do you have now? If you do not know then we cannot answer
your question.
Thanks Jim, I appreciate your point but I don't know the answer. Please see
explanation elsewhere on list. I was not aware that therewas different
tailwheels on a MKIV. Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ceashman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheels WAS For what its worth Michel &Rex |
Hello Michel and Rex
Now you have me wondering!
All this discussion of a soft tail wheel, supposed to alleviate ground loops,
or less prone. I thought that a ground loop was pilot inflicted, particularly
when the drivers mind is on something else like the rear of the vehicle.
Don't know about you, but when I am at that crucial moment, I'm thinking about
the
front end staying in front of the plane in relationship to everything else
around me at that time.
Anyway, thats what my instructor advised. He said pilot this aircraft 'till
you stop the engine.
Now' If what your saying is that the inflatable rear wheel is a no brainer,
when it comes to landing. Then I want one, just to get the stress out of my
flying (ha, ha).
Someone. Please let me know.
Greetings. Eric. Hard wheel Classic IV,
e-mail; ceashman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flier" <flier(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheels WAS For what its worth Michel &Rex |
My two cents. Has nothing to do with the tailwheel. I put the softer
tailwheel on to take some of the rumble out of taxiing. I've never had a
problem with groundloop with the 'hard' maule.
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Ceashman(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tailwheels WAS For what its worth Michel &Rex
Hello Michel and Rex
Now you have me wondering!
All this discussion of a soft tail wheel, supposed to alleviate ground
loops,
or less prone. I thought that a ground loop was pilot inflicted,
particularly
when the drivers mind is on something else like the rear of the vehicle.
Don't know about you, but when I am at that crucial moment, I'm thinking
about the
front end staying in front of the plane in relationship to everything else
around me at that time.
Anyway, thats what my instructor advised. He said pilot this aircraft 'till
you stop the engine.
Now' If what your saying is that the inflatable rear wheel is a no brainer,
when it comes to landing. Then I want one, just to get the stress out of my
flying (ha, ha).
Someone. Please let me know.
Greetings. Eric. Hard wheel Classic IV,
e-mail; ceashman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clem Nichols" <cnichols(at)scrtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheels WAS For what its worth Michel &Rex |
Earlier info on this group suggests that the spring tension on the tailwheel
than does the actual wheel itself. IMHO Ted is correct in that the
advantage of a soft rubber or pneumatic tailwheel is strictly in smoother
taxiing. I don't think there's a tailwheel made that will prevent a
ground-loop. If anyone knows of one, please let me know. Thanks
Clem Nichols
----- Original Message -----
From: "Flier" <flier(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Tailwheels WAS For what its worth Michel &Rex
>
> My two cents. Has nothing to do with the tailwheel. I put the softer
> tailwheel on to take some of the rumble out of taxiing. I've never had a
> problem with groundloop with the 'hard' maule.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Ceashman(at)aol.com
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tailwheels WAS For what its worth Michel &Rex
>
>
> Hello Michel and Rex
> Now you have me wondering!
> All this discussion of a soft tail wheel, supposed to alleviate ground
> loops,
> or less prone. I thought that a ground loop was pilot inflicted,
> particularly
> when the drivers mind is on something else like the rear of the vehicle.
> Don't know about you, but when I am at that crucial moment, I'm thinking
> about the
> front end staying in front of the plane in relationship to everything else
> around me at that time.
> Anyway, thats what my instructor advised. He said pilot this aircraft
'till
> you stop the engine.
> Now' If what your saying is that the inflatable rear wheel is a no
brainer,
> when it comes to landing. Then I want one, just to get the stress out of
my
> flying (ha, ha).
>
> Someone. Please let me know.
> Greetings. Eric. Hard wheel Classic IV,
>
> e-mail; ceashman(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gjglh(at)itlnet.net |
Remember this poem
Gary
Spdster912LS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What tailwheel do you have now? If you do not know then |
we cannot answer
Rex
If the tailwheel doesn't have identifying marks on it you can compare it to
the pictures in ACS catalog. It is probably a maule. the diameter of the
tailwheel is the overall size, not the rim size.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: What tailwheel do you have now? If you do not know
then we cannot answer
>
> What tailwheel do you have now? If you do not know then we cannot answer
> your question.
>
> Thanks Jim, I appreciate your point but I don't know the answer. Please
see
> explanation elsewhere on list. I was not aware that therewas different
> tailwheels on a MKIV. Rex.
> rexjan(at)bigpond.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ceashman(at)aol.com |
Good morning Michel.
From an earlier posting.
"My reason for wanting a pneumatic wheel is that a lot have said it is less
prone to ground loops. Also the original is very noisy and rough.
I think there is a few of us interested in clarification if someone can
do so please."
Michel, I don, t remember who actually wrote this, I don, t think that is
important.
What I remember is some of us continuing to support the idea of the type of
tail wheel helping with ground loops. That is what my question is about, Does
the soft wheel actually help to avoid the ground loop? and my question was for
all to answer.
I didn't mean you, personally, held the inflatable wheel in such high regard.
I responded to your and Rex's comments because they were the latest comments
on the topic and nothing else. (trying to not break the communication string).
Michel, You wrote:
Which is most unfortunate because I am also the owner and moderator of two
other Internet lists (not Kitfox related) and, as such, I try to motivate their
subscribers to, not only post when they have a problem, but also try to help
other members whenever possible, even if the answer is not always exactly
complete?
To respond to this.
You will be receiving many comments from the Kitfox List, people reminding
you to stay for many reasons. One reason to stay is, definitely you provide
motivation for others to tune in to the list. And you almost always respond to
other peoples questions. Your response may not be the answer, but because you
initiate the conversation, the group builds momentum and therefore, usually, the
solution is found.
I for one, would miss your inquisitiveness and honesty. And have you noticed
how you initiate a lot of response! that is the energy you share.
You already have a reminder to stay!
Don't stop posting! Your comments and questions are valuable and I always
enjoy reading them!
Pete.
Kitfox II G-BTBG
NOW! Can someone answer. Will a soft wheel help with ground loops (ha ha)
e-mail; ceashman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost? |
| From: | "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky(at)decisionlabs.com> |
10:50:17 AM
I have my Rotax 912S in for inspection. The shop doing the work has
recommended that I install the slipper clutch. They say that this really
smooths out the engine, especially at lower RPM, and will help reduce
problems I have had with the exhaust cracking due to vibration. My Fox is
up high, on anphib floats, so the chance of a prop strike is minimal, which
is why I was not too concerned about not having the clutch.
The cost is about $ 1000, but the shop says they have a slightly used one
they can install for $ 600. Is it worth it?
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
Or maybe you can post a few pics of your tailwheel for
us to help better?
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Rex & Jan Shaw wrote:
>
> When did your kit ship from Skystar? That may
> narrow down the manufacturer
>
> I didn't build the plane but only bought it last
> November. I am sorry to be
> arkward but I don't really know when it was shipped.
> I have a fair bit of
> paperwork with it and I know construction took 12
> months. Going on that my
> best guess is that the Kit was shipped in '93 and
> completed in '94. However
> I'm hoping this is not complicated by the fact the
> kit was a replacement.
> The guy that built it originally built a MKIII but
> the aluminium wing tanks
> split in flight and he wrecked the plane putting it
> down. Skystar [ or was
> it Denney then ] gave him another kit as
> compensation but I don't know if
> that was a full kit. I wonder if he might not have
> just needed the main
> airframe and used some of the MKIII bits. So sorry I
> don't really know the
> answer to your Question except to say there is only
> about 4" from the centre
> of the axle to the support arm where it passes the
> tyre. It works out that
> any replacent will need to be only about 7" in
> outside dia. The present
> wheel is more of a rubber tyred roller.
> When Aircraft spruce talk about 4" and 6" I assume
> that is the rim size. Is
> that right ?
>
> Thanks Rex.
> rexjan(at)bigpond.com
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris(at)intuit.com> |
cos t?
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the
cos t?
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 09:53:10 -0700
Nice website Gary,
Do you have puddle jumper floats on your plane?
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kitfoxjunky
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost?
I have my Rotax 912S in for inspection. The shop doing the work has
recommended that I install the slipper clutch. They say that this really
smooths out the engine, especially at lower RPM, and will help reduce
problems I have had with the exhaust cracking due to vibration. My Fox is
up high, on anphib floats, so the chance of a prop strike is minimal, which
is why I was not too concerned about not having the clutch.
The cost is about $ 1000, but the shop says they have a slightly used one
they can install for $ 600. Is it worth it?
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc Arseneault" <northernultralights(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List posting and values |
Michel,
Happy to hearthat you aren't leavingthe list as I enjoy reading your posts! Don't
worry about the comments fromsome thatat times canbe very rudeand keep posting.
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
From: Michel Verheughe michel(at)online.no Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com To:
kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: List posting and values
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 20:26:16 +0200 -- Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel
Verheughe michel(at)online.no kurt schrader wrote: So stick around. Thanks Pete,
Eric and Kurt but ... who said I was considering leaving the list? Do you
think I am crazy? This list is my only reliable source of information about the
Kitfox and I need to learn ... a lot. I wrote (and I quote): "I don't feel
very motivated to post anymore in the future." Which means: In the future, if
someone asks a question, y
Send junk mail straight into your Recycle Bin with MSN Premium: Join now and
get the first two months FREE*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "User" <paul(at)wilsonnet.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Kitfox mk1 questions (again) |
I have this week taken into my care, a Kitfox Mk 1 which although it was
built in 1989 , it only has a total of 68 flying hours.
The owner / builder is sadly no longer with us, and as his family are keen
to see it fly again, they have asked me to get it in an airworthy condition
and to renew it's UK permit to fly.
It has been standing in a hangar for a number of years, although the engine
(Rotax 532) has been run periodically.
It is in fantastic condition, mainly down to the high standard of
workmanship when it was built, and it's good storage conditions.
My questions to the list are mainly, what capacity battery does it require,
as the original has been removed,and during it's forthcoming inspection ,
are there any items I should be especially looking out for, given that it
has not been flown for a long time , are there any modifications or updates
that it may have missed out on during this time, either to the engine or
airframe, which it may benefit from, is there a good source of information
on line I could look at which would help me to get it airworthy again ?
Any information would be gratefully received.
Thanks in advance,
Paul ,
Matlock, Derbyshire
UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Kurian" <raykurian(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox mk1 questions (again) |
Paul,
I have a MK 1, (still building).
There have been several mandatory modifications. Mass balance for the
flaperons for one, and a couple of others (I don't have my documentation
with me here) but you can follow this link and it will show you what they
are. You may already have the mods in place.
http://www.skystar.com/service_bulletins.htm
HTH
Ray Kurian
raykurian(at)earthlink.net
KitFox Model 1 (project for sale to pay medical bills)
----- Original Message -----
From: "User" <paul(at)wilsonnet.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox mk1 questions (again)
>
> I have this week taken into my care, a Kitfox Mk 1 which although it was
> built in 1989 , it only has a total of 68 flying hours.
> The owner / builder is sadly no longer with us, and as his family are
keen
> to see it fly again, they have asked me to get it in an airworthy
condition
> and to renew it's UK permit to fly.
> It has been standing in a hangar for a number of years, although the
engine
> (Rotax 532) has been run periodically.
> It is in fantastic condition, mainly down to the high standard of
> workmanship when it was built, and it's good storage conditions.
> My questions to the list are mainly, what capacity battery does it
require,
> as the original has been removed,and during it's forthcoming inspection ,
> are there any items I should be especially looking out for, given that it
> has not been flown for a long time , are there any modifications or
updates
> that it may have missed out on during this time, either to the engine or
> airframe, which it may benefit from, is there a good source of information
> on line I could look at which would help me to get it airworthy again ?
>
> Any information would be gratefully received.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Paul ,
> Matlock, Derbyshire
> UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Robertson" <aerocon(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost? |
Gary,
Go for it!!!..... I know my answer is going to be considered biased as we
are a Rotax Service Center, but.....
we have seen the difference between engines that have the slipper clutch and
those that don't. It does help smoothen out the running at the lower rpm's,
but it also helps with the inherant vibtation at mid range (3700-4500 rpm)
that occurs in some airframes.
The start up and shut downs are less "shakey"...$600.00 is a pretty good
deal (especially if it is Canadian dollars)....
Hope this helps
Bob Robertson
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky(at)decisionlabs.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost?
>
> I have my Rotax 912S in for inspection. The shop doing the work has
> recommended that I install the slipper clutch. They say that this really
> smooths out the engine, especially at lower RPM, and will help reduce
> problems I have had with the exhaust cracking due to vibration. My Fox is
> up high, on anphib floats, so the chance of a prop strike is minimal,
which
> is why I was not too concerned about not having the clutch.
>
> The cost is about $ 1000, but the shop says they have a slightly used one
> they can install for $ 600. Is it worth it?
>
>
> Gary Walsh
> C-GOOT
> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Kurian" <raykurian(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox mk1 questions (again) |
Paul,
Since you have the 532 on that plane, here is a quote from an earlier email
message.
I realize you're in the UK, and this might not work for you.
**********
Rotax Upgrades Engine Trade-in Program
Following up on an innovative trade-in program for Rotax two-stroke engine
program, a new and far more aggressive version of that effort has just been
announced. Engines traded in under this program will not be rebuilt, reused,
or
put back into service. Their serial numbers will be taken out of service as
aircraft engines. Rotax hopes that the result will deplete the sport
aviation
market of old, tired, and worn-out "rebuilt" or "overhauled" engines.
Rotax sources note that with the new sport aircraft category coming, that
"With fresh engines on board it is our belief that recertified Light Sport
Aircraft will be easy to transition and convey to any DAR inspecting them a
feeling
of confidence in the suitability of such an aircraft for the experimental
light sport rating."
Exchange program for type 532,582 and 618 engines
Scope: To stimulate the market and assist the upcoming Sport Aircraft
transitions a special offer will being on July 1, 2004. A type 582 DCDI
engine,
complete, with the carburetion and fuel pump, the exhaust, will be offered
as
replacement for exchange to all owners of the aircraft engine version type
532, 582
or 618. This will be regardless of age of the original engine or
registration, as long as the serial number is found within the current
database. Check
with an Authorized Rotax Service Center to see if your serial number
applies. No
snowmobile serial numbers will be accepted for this exchange.
To qualify
The owner must ship, at his expense, all the required parts to the Service
Center to remove this engine from service. The retention of any of the parts
is
not allowed.
The parts to be returned are:
The engine assembly, crankcase, cylinders and heads with ignition attached.
The exhaust system complete
The carburetors, fuel pump
The recoil starter.
(In the event the engine has only a magneto end electric start, the new
engine will have the recoil removed for installation of the electric
starter). The
new type 582 engine must be registered at the time of sale by the Service
Center for warranty to begin immediately, no deferral of start times.
For engine types 532 trade in: The owner will pay $3838.00 USD to the
Service
Center, plus any shipping and handling of the new engine.
Suggested retail = $4638. Trade in sale price = $3838
Effective date: July 1, 2004
Termination date: October 30, 2004
Exchange program for type 377 and 477 engines
Scope: To stimulate the market and assist the upcoming Sport Aircraft
transitions a special offer has been developed. A type 447 SCDI engine,
complete,
with the carburetion and fuel pump, the exhaust, will be offered as
replacement
for exchange to all owners of the aircraft engine version type 377 or 477.
This
will be regardless of age of the original engine or registration, as long as
the serial number is found within the current database. No snowmobile serial
numbers will be accepted for this exchange. Check with an Authorized Rotax
Service Center to see if your serial number applies.
To qualify
The owner must ship, at his expense, all the required parts to the Service
Center to remove this engine from service. The retention of any of the parts
is
not allowed.
The parts to be returned are:
The engine assembly, crankcase, cylinders and heads with ignition attached.
The exhaust system complete
The carburetors, fuel pump
The recoil starter.
(In the event the engine has only a magneto end electric start, the new
engine will have the recoil removed for installation of the electric
starter)
The new type 477 engine must be registered at the time of sale by the
Service
Center for warranty to begin immediately, no deferral of start times. The
owner will pay $1999.00 USD to the Service Center, plus any shipping and
handling
of the new engine.
Suggested retail = $2465 Trade in sale price = 1999
Effective date: July 1, 2004
Termination date: October 30, 2004
Exchange program for type 503 engines
Scope: To stimulate the market and assist the upcoming Sport Aircraft
transitions a special offer has been developed. A type 503 SCDI engine,
complete,
with the carburetion and fuel pump, the exhaust, will be offered as
replacement
for exchange to all owners of the aircraft engine version type 503. This
will
be regardless of age of the original engine or registration, as long as the
serial number is found within the current database. No snowmobile serial
numbers
will be accepted for this exchange. Check with an Authorized Rotax Service
Center to see if your serial number applies.
To qualify
The owner must ship, at his expense, all the required parts to the Service
Center to remove this engine from service. The retention of any of the parts
is
not allowed.
The parts to be returned are:
The engine assembly, crankcase, cylinders and heads with ignition attached.
The exhaust system complete
The carburetors, fuel pump
The recoil starter.
(In the event the engine has only a magneto end electric start, the new
engine will have the recoil removed for installation of the electric
starter)
The new type 477 engine must be registered at the time of sale by the
Service
Center for warranty to begin immediately, no deferral of start times. The
owner will pay $2500.00 USD to the Service Center, plus any shipping and
handling
of the new engine.
Suggested retail = $3273.00 Trade in sale price = $2500.00
Effective date: July 1, 2004
Termination date: December 20, 2004
FMI: Please contact one of the following Authorized Kodiak Service Centers
California
Power Systems: info@800-airwolf.com
Florida
Lockwood Aviation Supply: lockwood(at)digital.net
Mississippi
South Mississippi Light Aircraft: flysmla(at)datasync.com
Wisconsin
Leading Edge Air Foils: info@leadingedge-airfoils.com
**********
----- Original Message -----
From: "User" <paul(at)wilsonnet.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox mk1 questions (again)
>
> I have this week taken into my care, a Kitfox Mk 1 which although it was
> built in 1989 , it only has a total of 68 flying hours.
> The owner / builder is sadly no longer with us, and as his family are
keen
> to see it fly again, they have asked me to get it in an airworthy
condition
> and to renew it's UK permit to fly.
> It has been standing in a hangar for a number of years, although the
engine
> (Rotax 532) has been run periodically.
> It is in fantastic condition, mainly down to the high standard of
> workmanship when it was built, and it's good storage conditions.
> My questions to the list are mainly, what capacity battery does it
require,
> as the original has been removed,and during it's forthcoming inspection ,
> are there any items I should be especially looking out for, given that it
> has not been flown for a long time , are there any modifications or
updates
> that it may have missed out on during this time, either to the engine or
> airframe, which it may benefit from, is there a good source of information
> on line I could look at which would help me to get it airworthy again ?
>
> Any information would be gratefully received.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Paul ,
> Matlock, Derbyshire
> UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost? |
Gary,
I have operated the factory aircraft with and without the slipper clutch.
I had it installed in mine... I think it does make a difference.
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kitfoxjunky
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost?
I have my Rotax 912S in for inspection. The shop doing the work has
recommended that I install the slipper clutch. They say that this really
smooths out the engine, especially at lower RPM, and will help reduce
problems I have had with the exhaust cracking due to vibration. My Fox is
up high, on anphib floats, so the chance of a prop strike is minimal, which
is why I was not too concerned about not having the clutch.
The cost is about $ 1000, but the shop says they have a slightly used one
they can install for $ 600. Is it worth it?
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox mk1 questions (again) |
Ray Kurian wrote:
> Since you have the 532 on that plane, here is a quote from an earlier email
> message.
> I realize you're in the UK, and this might not work for you.
I asked my local Rotax agent and unfortunately it doesn't work for Norway. It
will be interesting to know if it works for UK. Whatever the answer, I wonder
why the offer is valid for some countries and not others. The mind of Rotax
moves in mysterious ways.
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com> |
| Subject: | New 912S installation not charging battery |
I can make the big fan out front make wind. It just doesn't charge the
battery.
I have rechecked the wiring diagram a bunch of times, and if I am reading it
right, I have it wired correctly. ?? I am using an EIS from Grand Rapids
Tech. The engine runs great, but I can watch the battery voltage go down
over time. I have observed voltage of about 12.6 go down to about 11.7
where I decided to recharge the battery.
Can any one give me some diagnostic test to run?
One hopefully unrelated tale. I wired the 22,000 capacitor in with the
wrong polarity (a 50/50 deal and I got it wrong!) and I fried it the first
time I turned on the master switch. I hope this didn't get the voltage
regulator too. ????
Randy - I wanna go fly it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Robertson" <aerocon(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New 912S installation not charging battery |
Randy.....
Here Goes!..... First....Check all your connection...expecially the grounds.
Its a pain going through the procedures below only to find you have a poor
connection/
#1 Disconnect your regulator/rectifier from the engine. Check the AC
voltage output from the engine. You should have between 15 and 40 V AC.. 15
at low rpm and up to 40/45 at higher rpm. There is no positive/negative on
the leads from the engine (it's alternating current).
If no voltage, it's the coil Pak on the engine. Pray for voltage!
If yes, reconnect the regulator /rectifier to the engine.
If you have voltage the problem is either the regulator/rectifier or the
battery.
#2 Disconnect the leads FROM the regulator/rectifier to the battery and
connect your voltage meter to these two leads. You will be reading Direct
Current now, so hook the leads up correctly (pos. to pos.---you know the
drill!)
You should get around 12.9V to 13.5V at low rpm and upwards of 14.0 V at
higher rpm. If you have voltage (DC) the regulator is working and your
battery is bad.
#3 Verify your battery condition with a load test... If you don;t have the
equipment any bike or snowmobile shop can do it for you.
An automotive shop is a good bet as well.
Hope this helps
Bob Robertson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: New 912S installation not charging battery
>
>
> I can make the big fan out front make wind. It just doesn't charge the
> battery.
>
>
> I have rechecked the wiring diagram a bunch of times, and if I am reading
it
> right, I have it wired correctly. ?? I am using an EIS from Grand Rapids
> Tech. The engine runs great, but I can watch the battery voltage go down
> over time. I have observed voltage of about 12.6 go down to about 11.7
> where I decided to recharge the battery.
>
> Can any one give me some diagnostic test to run?
>
> One hopefully unrelated tale. I wired the 22,000 capacitor in with the
> wrong polarity (a 50/50 deal and I got it wrong!) and I fried it the first
> time I turned on the master switch. I hope this didn't get the voltage
> regulator too. ????
>
> Randy - I wanna go fly it!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay & Beverly Carter" <valley361(at)centurytel.net> |
What gives?????
See todays issue of Aoro News Network. Ed Downs may have left or may be
leaving SkyStar.
Jay C.
On not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clem Nichols" <cnichols(at)scrtc.com> |
| Subject: | List posting and values |
Group:
Inasmuch as my name was mentioned earlier today by Michel in his posting about
withdrawing from the group, I feel that I should make a brief statement explaining
my posting of July 26 at 11:55 a.m. In his posting (message #7 of July 26),
Michel said, and I quote, "none of the tires are interchangeable. You have
to purchase the whole assembly." In retrospect, I realize he was talking
only about the wheel and tire. At the time of my posting I mistakenly assumed
he was talking about the entire $246 tailwheel assembly. In fact, one of the
other group members had told me earlier (off group) that if I wanted to use
the Homebuilder wheel I would have to purchase the entire assembly. Ted's posting,
to which I responded, made it clear to me that this was not the case. I
had no intention of putting Michel down or questioning his knowledge. I was
only trying to clarify the issue for anyone else who was laboring under the same
false impression as I. I don't think my posting was derogatory in the least,
and regret any hard feelings it may have caused. Quite frankly, I'm a little
puzzled by his response and his failure to respond to an off-group e-mail I
sent him more than 12 hours ago. The last thing in the world I want to do is
to offend anyone, and I would hate to think that I was in any way responsible
for the departure of anyone who contributes as much to the group as Michel does.
Clem Nichols
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger McConnell" <rdmac(at)swbell.net> |
Jay,
There is no may to it. Ed Downs is out at SS. Heard it last week.
Roger Mac
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jay &
Beverly Carter
Subject: Kitfox-List: skystar
What gives?????
See todays issue of Aoro News Network. Ed Downs may have left or may
be leaving SkyStar.
Jay
C.
On not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com> |
| Subject: | New 912S installation not charging battery |
Bob,
Many thanks! I now have a plan!
I will see what I can learn.
Randy - Back at it!
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Robertson
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: New 912S installation not charging battery
Randy.....
Here Goes!..... First....Check all your connection...expecially the grounds.
Its a pain going through the procedures below only to find you have a poor
connection/
#1 Disconnect your regulator/rectifier from the engine. Check the AC
voltage output from the engine. You should have between 15 and 40 V AC.. 15
at low rpm and up to 40/45 at higher rpm. There is no positive/negative on
the leads from the engine (it's alternating current).
If no voltage, it's the coil Pak on the engine. Pray for voltage!
If yes, reconnect the regulator /rectifier to the engine.
If you have voltage the problem is either the regulator/rectifier or the
battery.
#2 Disconnect the leads FROM the regulator/rectifier to the battery and
connect your voltage meter to these two leads. You will be reading Direct
Current now, so hook the leads up correctly (pos. to pos.---you know the
drill!)
You should get around 12.9V to 13.5V at low rpm and upwards of 14.0 V at
higher rpm. If you have voltage (DC) the regulator is working and your
battery is bad.
#3 Verify your battery condition with a load test... If you don;t have the
equipment any bike or snowmobile shop can do it for you.
An automotive shop is a good bet as well.
Hope this helps
Bob Robertson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: New 912S installation not charging battery
>
>
> I can make the big fan out front make wind. It just doesn't charge the
> battery.
>
>
> I have rechecked the wiring diagram a bunch of times, and if I am reading
it
> right, I have it wired correctly. ?? I am using an EIS from Grand Rapids
> Tech. The engine runs great, but I can watch the battery voltage go down
> over time. I have observed voltage of about 12.6 go down to about 11.7
> where I decided to recharge the battery.
>
> Can any one give me some diagnostic test to run?
>
> One hopefully unrelated tale. I wired the 22,000 capacitor in with the
> wrong polarity (a 50/50 deal and I got it wrong!) and I fried it the first
> time I turned on the master switch. I hope this didn't get the voltage
> regulator too. ????
>
> Randy - I wanna go fly it!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | List posting and values |
Clem, Rick, Steve, and et al:
Michel Verheughe is not leaving, if nothing else, because us list janitors
will not allow it. Like many of you, he is a valuable resource to the list.
I have been monitoring the conversations and do not believe it ever reached
the level of flaming. I am sorry if anyone was put off by the discussion, as
we try to intervene before it reaches the level where someone gets their
feelings hurt. Matt was entirely correct to post the list rules for all to
review.
When you disagree with someone's opinion, and we all have different
opinions, please answer in the manner that you, yourself, would like to be
addressed. Do unto others as you would have them do unto you. Be polite. Use
tact. You can be persuasive, but never be condescending.
OK, all involved in this discussion please take a deep breath, step back,
and follow the rules.
Rule #1 when you are posting: REREAD what you are posting BEFORE you hit the
send button.
Thank you,
Don Pearsall
Admin/Janitor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: When did your kit ship from Skystar? That may narrow |
down the manufacturer
Rex:
What they mean by 4" and 6" is outside diameter. 6" is same diameter, and can
replace hard rubber Matco. I have seen 4" in a Kolb and a RV-8.
Rex & Jan Shaw wrote:
When did your kit ship from Skystar? That may narrow down the manufacturer
I didn't build the plane but only bought it last November. I am sorry to be
arkward but I don't really know when it was shipped. I have a fair bit of
paperwork with it and I know construction took 12 months. Going on that my
best guess is that the Kit was shipped in '93 and completed in '94. However
I'm hoping this is not complicated by the fact the kit was a replacement.
The guy that built it originally built a MKIII but the aluminium wing tanks
split in flight and he wrecked the plane putting it down. Skystar [ or was
it Denney then ] gave him another kit as compensation but I don't know if
that was a full kit. I wonder if he might not have just needed the main
airframe and used some of the MKIII bits. So sorry I don't really know the
answer to your Question except to say there is only about 4" from the centre
of the axle to the support arm where it passes the tyre. It works out that
any replacent will need to be only about 7" in outside dia. The present
wheel is more of a rubber tyred roller.
When Aircraft spruce talk about 4" and 6" I assume that is the rim size. Is
that right ?
Thanks Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List posting and values |
>2. The more you actually stand up for something and
>try to help, the more you will be attacked for it.
I personally wish the list were moderated more heavily. I do not enjoy
reading lists where messages are allowed to get even remotely personal. My
favorite lists are those where personal or commercial postings are
censored, keeping everybody on topic. I know some like the flame wars, but
I don't.
Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: List posting and values |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn(at)nethere.com>
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: List posting and values
>
>
> >2. The more you actually stand up for something and
> >try to help, the more you will be attacked for it.
> I personally wish the list were moderated more heavily. I do not enjoy
> reading lists where messages are allowed to get even remotely personal.
If it was I wouldn't be here. I am the list Moderator for the
Ultralight_Aircraft Group...and there is little to no moderation. We feel
that when moderation starts, free thought ends. We want people to speak
their minds.
Steve Cooper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD HUTSON" <rhutson(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=83ece717-d34f-4153-91cf-7819e0024bf3&
This is the link to Aero-News regarding Ed Downs
Its on 7/27 title is New Sport Flying company Takes off.
WWW.Americansportflying.com
> What gives?????
>
> See todays issue of Aoro News Network. Ed Downs may have left or
may be leaving SkyStar.
>
>
Jay C.
> On not archive.
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
SkyStar website still has John on the staff!
I guess it's not being updated.
bh
> That's FUNNY
> (right John?)
>
> Mark Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
Well, I finally found the reference to Mr. Ed Downs buried in the text.
The worst part is that he has been named president of this venture.
I, for one, will never purchase any product, or participate in anything
that has any connection with Mr. Downs. I believe his performance at Skystar
shows his leadership, business and moral qualities.
Perhaps the new leadership of Skystar will now make good on the multitude
of back orders owed customers, some of which are over two years old.
Arthur Nation
Tacoma, WA
(partial S7 kit)
since August 2002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gjglh(at)itlnet.net |
SportAv News
New Sport Flying Company Takes Off
Tue, 27 Jul '04
The remarkable opportunities engendered by the advent of the FAA's
new Sport Pilot rule are attracting important new entrants into the
flying business. Integrity Brands, a Boston-based investment
organization, has announced a new business initiative aimed at the
emerging Sport Pilot market. This initiative represents an exciting
new entry into recreational aviation, by an investment organization
known for its record in creating value in consumer brands and branded
specialty retail businesses. Integrity Brands has formed a new
business called American Sport Flying. American Sport Flying has a
unique mission: to become the pre-eminent, national branded
destination for sport flying, for both new and existing pilots.
According to John Pound, Founder of Integrity Brands and American
Sport Flying, "With the advent of the Sport Pilot Rule, we see a
tremendous opportunity to literally reinvent recreational flying in
the United States. Clearly, there is an immediate opportunity to
bring many existing pilots back into recreational flying. Beyond
that, we believe this rule provides the engine to rebuild sport
aviation, bringing thousands of new people into the sport of flying.
The goal of American Sport Flying will be to provide the sport flying
experience directly, both to existing pilots, and, ultimately, to a
new generation of recreational pilots."
"American Sport Flying will offer a new business model in the
recreational aviation arena," Mr. Pound continued. "We are going to
build a national brand that stands for grassroots sport flying in
America. We are going to market our brand in a way that educates a
new generation of Americans about the joys, accessibility, and safety
of sport flying. American Sport Flying will connect both new pilots
and returning pilots directly with a carefully developed set of
tools, information, and services, through which they will be able to
pursue the best of sport flying -- in a way that is consistent, safe,
and meets high standards for customer service."
American Sport Flying will provide its services through a modern
multichannel model. A Web portal, that will go live on September 1,
will serve as a national entry point, through which both returning
and prospective pilots can connect to sport flying. Pound reports
that www.americansportflying.com will provide a unique mix of
information, products, and services to prospective sport pilots,
beginning with proprietary guides that will offer unique "how to"
assistance so that new and returning pilots can pursue sport flying
economically and safely. The Web portal will become the place to go
to learn about sport flying and access key sport flying products and
services, including instruction, rentals, and sales of sport
airplanes. Members will also be able to connect with other sport
pilots, join fly-outs, and receive discounts on a wide variety of
sport flying products and services.
In the second phase of the business model, American Sport Flying's
"virtual airport" at www.americansportflying.com, will link to real,
bricks-and-mortar local airports throughout the country. American
Sport Flying Centers, located at carefully selected airports, will
offer the front line services needed by both returning and new pilots
who are joining the sport flying movement. These centers will, in the
spirit of modern branded specialty retail, offer the customer a
wonderful experience - one that is consistent, safe, and highly
consumer friendly. They will provide instruction, rentals, and
aircraft sales and service, to a consistently high standard, defined
and maintained at the national level.
Mr. Pound said, "You will see that the American Sport Flying brand
will have a very specific viewpoint. We are here to offer new and
returning pilots a flying experience, and flying products, that
represent the best that sport aviation has to offer. American Sport
Flying Centers will draw on the wonderful grass roots traditions of
Sunday morning flying in America, and bring those traditions into the
modern era. We will champion values such as friendliness, openness,
professionalism, and high levels of customer service. The American
Sport Flying Centers will be well-designed, pleasing environments in
which pilots and their families can access the sport flying
experience."
Considerable talent has coalesced around American Sport Flying. Mr.
Edward S. Downs, former President and CEO of SkyStar Aircraft
Corporation, and more recently, President of SkyStar Aircraft's Sport
Plane Division, has been named as President of American Sport Flying.
According to Mr. Pound, "We needed a leader in aviation whose
background spans all aspects of what Sport Pilot has to offer. Ed has
almost 50 years of left seat time under his belt, and vast experience
in the business of aviation, including certification experience on
planes including the Boeing 747 and the Lockheed L-1011. Ed also
served a tour of duty in Washington, D.C., representing airline
interests in our nation's capitol. His sophisticated perspective,
experience, and leadership bring a unique expertise to American Sport
Flying."
Ed Downs, long active in the Sport Pilot movement, approaches this
new challenge in his typically enthusiastic manner. Mr. Downs, like
Mr. Pound, has broad and high-reaching goals for the business. He
said, "In this exciting time, with the great opportunity opened up by
the Sport Pilot Rule, we intend that American Sport Flying accomplish
not one, but three, key missions. First, we want to build the best
national destination for sport flying, for existing and new pilots
alike, both in terms of our Web site, and our selected airport
facilities. Second, in so doing, we want to help set a high practical
standard for the implementation of the Sport Pilot Rule - to honor
and champion its letter and its spirit. Third, we want to
re-introduce the sport of flying into American culture. We want to
create a new national constituency for sport flying and rekindle the
magic of flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gjglh(at)itlnet.net |
TAILDRAGGER
EASY, THAT'S TOO MUCH.
Taildragger, I hate your guts,
I have the license, ratings and such.
But to make you go straight is driving me nuts.
With hours of teaching and the controls in my clutch.
It takes a little rudder, easy, that's too much.
You see, I learned to fly in a tricycle gear
with one up front and two in the rear.
She was sleek and clean and easy to steer.
But this miserable thing with tires and struts.
Takes a little rudder, easy, that's too much.
It demands your attention on the take-off roll.
Or it'll head towards Jones's as you pour on the coal.
Gotta hang loose, don't over control.
This wicked little plane is just too much.
With a lot of zigzagging and words obscene
I think I've mastered this slippery machine.
It's not that bad if you have the touch.
Just a little rudder, easy, that's too much.
I relax for a second and from the corner of my eye,
I suddenly realize with a gasp and a cry.
That's my own tail that's going by.
You ground looping wreck; I hate your guts,
Give a little rudder, Great Scott,
EASY, THAT'S TOO MUCH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
I hate computers! I am sure I already answered this one but ... I find no trace
of it. If I really did, please excuse the double posting.
> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com]
> I must respectfully and humbly disagree with what your
> simulator friends taught you.
I agree with everything you say, Kurt. I would like, however, to quote what Austin
Meyer, the American creator of the flight simulator X-Plane, says about it.
What do you think of it?
Cheers,
Michel
A climbing airplane is the same [as a helicopter]: The DESCENDING blade is actually
ADVANCING INTO THE AIR A LITTLE BIT (THUS MOVING FASTER) SINCE THE PLANE
IS TILTED UP! The CLIMBING blade is retreating away from the onrushing air a bit
for the same reason! Thus, the DESCENDING blade puts out more lift from it's
HIGHER SPEED when the airplane is at high angle of attack.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "P" factor - tail wheel and "splitted" elevator. |
| From: | Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor(at)online.no> |
Hi Michel,
Long time.. long seen..
You are not that far out...
How about this:
Pasted from this site:
http://www.drag-on-fly.com/B263.html
.......................
P-factor:
[rotor] The term P-factor is defined to mean ``asymmetric disk loading''.
It is an extremely significant effect for helicopters. When the helicopter
is in forward flight, the blade on one side has a much higher airspeed
than the other. If you tried to fly the blades at constant angle of
attack, the advancing blade would produce quite a bit more lift than the
retreating blade.
[propeller] Asymmetric loading is caused by the resultant velocity of the
propeller in its plane of rotation and the velocity of the air through the
propeller disc. With the airplane at positive angles of attack the right,
or down swinging blade has a higher velocity than the left, or up swinging
blade. Since the propeller blades are in themselves airfoils increased
velocity results in increased lift, and the increased lift on the right
blade tends to yaw the airplane to the left.
.........................
And some more (practical) from this site:
http://www.helicopterpage.com/html/dol.html
..........................
As for your "soft" tail wheel: YES it's better, in two ways! But it can't
prevent ground loops..
There is a physical explanation on this, and you should be able to figure
out...
..........................
The splitted elevator is made to improve the sensitivity of the elevator
around the neutral position.
I.E. A flat foil stab. with no split, will have a dead spot around neutral
position (boundary layer), besides, this "instability" also tend to create
oscillation / flutter.
There is a "small" roll component- and a "micro" yaw component... :)
...........................
I'm on my way.. this weekend
Cheers
Torgeir.
wrote:
>
> I hate computers! I am sure I already answered this one but ... I find
> no trace of it. If I really did, please excuse the double posting.
>
>> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com]
>> I must respectfully and humbly disagree with what your
>> simulator friends taught you.
>
> I agree with everything you say, Kurt. I would like, however, to quote
> what Austin Meyer, the American creator of the flight simulator X-Plane,
> says about it. What do you think of it?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> A climbing airplane is the same [as a helicopter]: The DESCENDING blade
> is actually ADVANCING INTO THE AIR A LITTLE BIT (THUS MOVING FASTER)
> SINCE THE PLANE IS TILTED UP! The CLIMBING blade is retreating away from
> the onrushing air a bit for the same reason! Thus, the DESCENDING blade
> puts out more lift from it's HIGHER SPEED when the airplane is at high
> angle of attack.
>
>
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clem Nichols" <cnichols(at)scrtc.com> |
On a more practical note, any advice about shortening a Warp Drive prop? My last
wheel landing was not my best, and I sustained damage to about 3/4 of an inch
of the tip of one blade, and a tiny amount to another blade. I spoke with
one of the people at Warp Drive about purchasing replacement blades. He thought
that shortening the blades by no more than 3/4" would not have any significant
effect on performance, and suggested going that route instead. He said the
critical part was in cutting the metal leading edge so as to not separate it
from the blade. He suggested cutting it (the metal leading edge) half way through
from one side and the rest of the way from the other side. I was considering
cutting the leading edge with a Dremel rotary tool and using a hack saw
to cut the blade proper. Of course I can always send the blades to Warp Drive
and have them shortened and balanced for about $100 plus shipping charges. New
blades with the metal leading edge would run about $250 each. Original diameter
70" on an NSI Subaru EA 81 engine. Obviously I don't wish to spend money
unnecessarily, but by the same token don't want to risk my life to save a few
dollars. Advice appreciated.
Clem Nichols
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "P" factor - tail wheel and "splitted" elevator. |
Well guys,
This may not be a subject that everyone wants to get
so deeply immersed into. It is one of the "whys" of
why the plane likes to yaw during maneuvers. The
first importance is controlling it, not defining it,
so I don't blame anyone for not wanting to read all
this detail. But for you who do want to go there,
here goes. :-)
I am going to stick to my guns on this subject. I
went to the home page of the drag-on-fly site to see
who was giving the p factor definition and it said
this in bright red:
"This material is being constantly expanded and
revised. ~ It contains many errors"
I agree. :-) This is a salesman's site for very
lite/ultra lite helos. They are making it up as they
go. The other site is a good site, but does not
define P factor in any way that I saw. Just helo
aerodynamics.
I'll comment in each e-mail section for clarity (with
deletions for brevity) separated by "KFKFKF"
KFKFKFKFKF
--- Torgeir Mortensen wrote:
>
> Hi Michel,
>
> How about this:
>
> http://www.drag-on-fly.com/B263.html
>
> .......................
>
> P-factor:
>
> [rotor] The term P-factor is defined to mean
> ``asymmetric disk loading''.
> It is an extremely significant effect for
> helicopters. When the helicopter is in forward
> flight, the blade on one side has a much higher
> airspeed than the other. If you tried to fly the
> blades at constant angle of attack, the advancing
> blade would produce quite a bit more lift than the
> retreating blade.
KFKFKFKFKFKF
Analogy: We can turn on the ground with rudder and we
can turn with brakes. Both cause yawing, but we don't
call both "braking".
Helos and planes both achieve "asymmetric disk
loading" as I explained previously as the one
similarity between them. But both are not "P factor".
He should have said "RE defined" instead of "defined"
as "P factor" because he is borrowing the term to
apply it to helos. Better, he should have just called
both "asymmetric disk loading". That would be
correct. "P factor" is not really correct for helos.
After all, it is "prop factor" shortened to "P
factor".
But his reason for helo asymmetric disk loading is at
least correct.
KFKFKFKFKFKF
>
> [propeller] Asymmetric loading is caused by the
> resultant velocity of the propeller in its plane of
> rotation and the velocity of the air through the
> propeller disc. With the airplane at positive angles
> of attack the right, or down swinging blade has a
> higher velocity than the left, or up swinging
> blade. Since the propeller blades are in themselves
> airfoils increased velocity results in increased
> lift, and the increased lift on the right
> blade tends to yaw the airplane to the left.
KFKFKFKFKF
Who started THIS definition of P factor? I need trig
tables or a trig calculator to give a more exact
answer and I don't have either. Maybe someone would
like to do the math.
Assume a 10 degree aircraft pitch change as an
example. How much faster will the prop blade travel
on the down side than on the up side? The difference
would be the increase of the hypotenuse length over
the base length. Now squared this because the lift
increases with the square of the speed. That should
give the difference in thrust due to speed when
tilting the disk from 90 to 80 degrees.
Compare this to the thrust difference from prop pitch
change. The math is more difficult for this part, so
we need to imagine the difference in thrust on one
side of the propeller compared to the thrust
difference on the other side when you add 10 degrees
prop pitch to one side and subtract 10 degrees of
pitch on the other.
I think you will find that the lift increase due to
the speed chnage is much smaller than that due to the
pitch change. That is because there is so little
speed change from 90 degrees to the wind vs 80 degrees
to the wind. But a difference in prop pitch of 20
degrees total will cause a great asymmetry difference
in thrust.
This difference in pitch will cause a big difference
in prop blast from side to side, which is a much
bigger airspeed difference than changing the disc arc
10 degrees. The key word is "cause". The pitch
difference causes the prop blast speed difference from
side to side. The prop arc speed difference is far
smaller.
My conclusion is that asymmetric loading is due to
pitch not speed differences for planes, and speed not
pitch differences for helos, due to their very
different angles to the wind.
And only planes have "P factor". (Aren't we splitting
hairs on that?)
KFKFKFKF
Next subject...
> ..........................
>
> The splitted elevator is made to improve the
> sensitivity of the elevator around the neutral
> position.
>
> I.E. A flat foil stab. with no split, will have a
> dead spot around neutral
> position (boundary layer), besides, this
> "instability" also tend to create oscillation
> / flutter.
>
> There is a "small" roll component- and a "micro" yaw
> component... :)
>
> Torgeir.
KFKFKFKF
Exactly right. The key is the boundry layer being
thicker on flat airfoils and the need to be up against
it for flutter and flight control purposes.
KFKFKFKF
>
> wrote:
> > I agree with everything you say, Kurt. I would
> like, however, to quote what Austin Meyer,
> the American creator of the flight simulator
> X-Plane, says about it. What do you think of it?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Michel
> >
> > A climbing airplane is the same [as a helicopter]:
> > The DESCENDING blade is actually ADVANCING
> > INTO THE AIR A LITTLE BIT (THUS MOVING FASTER)
> > SINCE THE PLANE IS TILTED UP! The CLIMBING blade
> > is retreating away from the onrushing air a bit
> > for the same reason! Thus, the DESCENDING blade
> > puts out more lift from it's HIGHER SPEED when the
> airplane is at high angle of attack.
KFKFKFKF
The Key phrase Michel is, "a little bit" as 10 degrees
is a little bit of 90 degrees. A helo has a huge
difference in speed edge on. The plane has so little
speed difference nearly 90 degrees off the relative
wind. But the prop pitch difference CAUSES the prop
to create a much bigger wind speed or prop blast
difference. IMHO
Pant pant. Think I am out of breath on that one. :-)
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop shortening |
Clem,
Oops? Guess that is just a ding?
I was thinking along the same lines as you when I read
this. Maybe jury-rig a ficture so that you can cut
the exact same amount off each blade like a miterbox.
Then use a dremel to cut the metal from each side,
followed by cutting the blade in your ficture for
exact length. Finally weigh each blade and see if you
got it accurate.
Does your post office have a package scale in the
lobby? Just an idea. I think some will compare
accurately to the gram for something that light. If
you walk in with 3 blades and a file, tell them it is
a ceiling fan or something. :-)
If there is even a little seperation of the metal, you
need to send it in. They will work lose and fly off
making for way too much vibration.
Next point: Sawing carbon fiber. Will a new fine
blade hacksaw do it without seperating the end fibers?
I think it will be OK, but don't know for sure. A
big rotory cutoff disk on a table saw might cut carbon
too and you can set it accurately for length. I'd ask
Warp what's best. Phone calls are cheaper than
experience.
I'd also like to know how well it works for you - for
when I do it... Bound to happen to me too.
Kurt S. S-5 /NSI turbo
--- Clem Nichols wrote:
>
>
> On a more practical note, any advice about
> shortening a Warp Drive prop? My last wheel landing
> was not my best, and I sustained damage to about 3/4
> of an inch of the tip of one blade, and a tiny
> amount to another blade. I spoke with one of the
> people at Warp Drive about purchasing replacement
> blades. He thought that shortening the blades by no
> more than 3/4" would not have any significant effect
> on performance, and suggested going that route
> instead. He said the critical part was in cutting
> the metal leading edge so as to not separate it from
> the blade. He suggested cutting it (the metal
> leading edge) half way through from one side and the
> rest of the way from the other side. I was
> considering cutting the leading edge with a Dremel
> rotary tool and using a hack saw to cut the blade
> proper. Of course I can always send the blades to
> Warp Drive and have them shortened and balanced for
> about $100 plus shipping charges. New blades with
> the metal leading edge would run abou!
> t $250 each. Original diameter 70" on an NSI Subaru
> EA 81 engine. Obviously I don't wish to spend money
> unnecessarily, but by the same token don't want to
> risk my life to save a few dollars. Advice
> appreciated.
>
> Clem Nichols
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel Troubles |
> From: jimshumaker [jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net]
> locking out the freewheel release may prevent some inadvertant ground turns.
How about this: On a Maule tailwheel, you remove the release plate. You make a
hole in the releasing latch casing. You fix a wire to the latch, leaving, of course,
the spring in place. You bring that wire through a teleflex (do you call
it that?) then through the fuselage, as for the rudder, to the cockpit. On the
ground, if you want to free-castor, you pull the wire from the cockpit. Fail-safe:
If the wire breaks, the wheel is locked by the spring.
My father used to tell me that, when he flew the DC-3, in order to e.g. backtrack,
he had to release the locking mechanism, press a pedal and brake, and throttle
with the outside engine only.
Has anyone ever been thinking of a cockpit-released tailwheel for the Kitfox?
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "User" <paul(at)wilsonnet.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox mk1 questions (again) |
> Ray Kurian wrote:
> > I realize you're in the UK, and this might not work for you.
>
> I asked my local Rotax agent and unfortunately it doesn't work for Norway.
Thnks for the info., I called the UK Rotax distributor, and as you thought,
it is not valid in the U.K. either
Paul.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norm Beauchamp <nebchmp(at)wcc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Troubles |
Good idea Michel. I had taken the plate off , but had to realease the
catch if I was turning pushing the acft. by hand. A cockpit release, I
like the idea. Norm
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
>
>
>>From: jimshumaker [jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net]
>>locking out the freewheel release may prevent some inadvertant ground turns.
>>
>>
>
>How about this: On a Maule tailwheel, you remove the release plate. You make a
hole in the releasing latch casing. You fix a wire to the latch, leaving, of
course, the spring in place. You bring that wire through a teleflex (do you call
it that?) then through the fuselage, as for the rudder, to the cockpit. On
the ground, if you want to free-castor, you pull the wire from the cockpit. Fail-safe:
If the wire breaks, the wheel is locked by the spring.
>My father used to tell me that, when he flew the DC-3, in order to e.g. backtrack,
he had to release the locking mechanism, press a pedal and brake, and throttle
with the outside engine only.
>
>Has anyone ever been thinking of a cockpit-released tailwheel for the Kitfox?
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kirkhull(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop shortening |
Even if you can cut ALL 3 blades down can you balance the assembly close
enough to keep the engine in the airframe? there was an article in the July
EAA Sport Pilot about props it might be worth reading.
That said I personally would spend the $100.00 to get it done right
>
> On a more practical note, any advice about shortening a Warp Drive prop?
My last wheel landing was not my best, and I sustained damage to about 3/4
of an inch of the tip of one blade, and a tiny amount to another blade. I
spoke with one of the people at Warp Drive about purchasing replacement
blades. He thought that shortening the blades by no more than 3/4" would
not have any significant effect on performance, and suggested going that
route instead. He said the critical part was in cutting the metal leading
edge so as to not separate it from the blade. He suggested cutting it (the
metal leading edge) half way through from one side and the rest of the way
from the other side. I was considering cutting the leading edge with a
Dremel rotary tool and using a hack saw to cut the blade proper. Of course
I can always send the blades to Warp Drive and have them shortened and
balanced for about $100 plus shipping charges. New blades with the metal
leading edge would run abou!
> t $250 each. Original diameter 70" on an NSI Subaru EA 81 engine.
Obviously I don't wish to spend money unnecessarily, but by the same token
don't want to risk my life to save a few dollars. Advice appreciated.
>
> Clem Nichols
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Troubles |
Great idea Michel.
But it would add weight and work. To make it as useful as you describe in a
previous post one need only add practice and skill.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel(at)online.no>
Subject: SV: Kitfox-List: Tailwheel Troubles
>
> > From: jimshumaker [jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net]
> > locking out the freewheel release may prevent some inadvertant ground
turns.
>
> How about this: On a Maule tailwheel, you remove the release plate. You
make a hole in the releasing latch casing. You fix a wire to the latch,
leaving, of course, the spring in place. You bring that wire through a
teleflex (do you call it that?) then through the fuselage, as for the
rudder, to the cockpit. On the ground, if you want to free-castor, you pull
the wire from the cockpit. Fail-safe: If the wire breaks, the wheel is
locked by the spring.
> My father used to tell me that, when he flew the DC-3, in order to e.g.
backtrack, he had to release the locking mechanism, press a pedal and brake,
and throttle with the outside engine only.
>
> Has anyone ever been thinking of a cockpit-released tailwheel for the
Kitfox?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Cockpit release. WAS: Tailwheel Troubles |
jimshumaker wrote:
> Great idea Michel.
Thanks Norm and Jim. However, I see two objections:
1) It would be extremely arrogant from my part to state that I found a solution
that thousands of home-builders and aircraft manufacturers haven't found before
me. There might be a "catch 22" in the cockpit-released device. It could be
interesting to find out what it is.
2) The solution to modify the Maule wheel, as I described, with a teleflex
cable from the starboard side latch system, is not very good. The cable will
make a loop that will catch anything on the ground. Not very wise.
The best solution would be a tailwheel assembly where the latch system is not
on the side but in front of the vertical axis. Of course, this would require an
entirely different manufacturing of the parts and not only a modification of
the existing one.
BTW, does anyone know why the Maule latch is at such an angle to the plane
axis? There must be a reason too. Hum, ... thinking, thinking ... any ideas, guys?
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
I am building a model 3 .Is there anyone out there on the list that can tell
me the best all weather prop for the 912 in a model 3 ? I've owned a
Challenger with a Warpdrive and it was simple to set pitch and a Bucaneer with
a Sport
Prop that was very simular to the Warp.Whats the Best Prop ? I know this opens
the great can of "Worms" and I'd like to hear from members that have used
more than one kind of Prop .The GSC prop is not an option .My Challenger came
with a wooden prop and dirt and small gravel do a number on them not to mention
being affected by moisture . I would like to hear from a few of you as to
what the best prop is and what dimeter and pitch your using
Best David Cecil
KF3 895DC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com> |
David,
Check out http://www.powerfin.com/ Although I haven't flown, I find it
easy to set and tracking was perfect. Others on the list report they are
happy with it.
Randy - Series 5/7 - 912S Getting close....
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dcecil3(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop
I am building a model 3 .Is there anyone out there on the list that can tell
me the best all weather prop for the 912 in a model 3 ? I've owned a
Challenger with a Warpdrive and it was simple to set pitch and a Bucaneer
with a Sport
Prop that was very simular to the Warp.Whats the Best Prop ? I know this
opens
the great can of "Worms" and I'd like to hear from members that have used
more than one kind of Prop .The GSC prop is not an option .My Challenger
came
with a wooden prop and dirt and small gravel do a number on them not to
mention
being affected by moisture . I would like to hear from a few of you as to
what the best prop is and what dimeter and pitch your using
Best David Cecil
KF3 895DC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net> |
David,
Personally I like the IVO in flight adjustable. I think bang for the buck
you can't beet it..... If you are trying to stay Light Sport Aircraft (LSA)
compliant then either the IVO or the Warp ground adjustable. If you are
going new I have either available.
Like you said this can open a can of worms....
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dcecil3(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop
I am building a model 3 .Is there anyone out there on the list that can tell
me the best all weather prop for the 912 in a model 3 ? I've owned a
Challenger with a Warpdrive and it was simple to set pitch and a Bucaneer
with a Sport
Prop that was very simular to the Warp.Whats the Best Prop ? I know this
opens
the great can of "Worms" and I'd like to hear from members that have used
more than one kind of Prop .The GSC prop is not an option .My Challenger
came
with a wooden prop and dirt and small gravel do a number on them not to
mention
being affected by moisture . I would like to hear from a few of you as to
what the best prop is and what dimeter and pitch your using
Best David Cecil
KF3 895DC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net> |
Beat... not beet... don't care to eat it. Been a long day...
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jdmcbean
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Prop
David,
Personally I like the IVO in flight adjustable. I think bang for
the buck
you can't beet it..... If you are trying to stay Light Sport Aircraft (LSA)
compliant then either the IVO or the Warp ground adjustable. If you are
going new I have either available.
Like you said this can open a can of worms....
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dcecil3(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop
I am building a model 3 .Is there anyone out there on the list that can tell
me the best all weather prop for the 912 in a model 3 ? I've owned a
Challenger with a Warpdrive and it was simple to set pitch and a Bucaneer
with a Sport
Prop that was very simular to the Warp.Whats the Best Prop ? I know this
opens
the great can of "Worms" and I'd like to hear from members that have used
more than one kind of Prop .The GSC prop is not an option .My Challenger
came
with a wooden prop and dirt and small gravel do a number on them not to
mention
being affected by moisture . I would like to hear from a few of you as to
what the best prop is and what dimeter and pitch your using
Best David Cecil
KF3 895DC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker(at)sbcglobal.net> |
If you go warp drive you can get the nickel inlay to prevent chipping from
flying in the rain.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dcecil3(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop
>
> I am building a model 3 .Is there anyone out there on the list that can
tell
> me the best all weather prop for the 912 in a model 3 ? I've owned a
> Challenger with a Warpdrive and it was simple to set pitch and a Bucaneer
with a Sport
> Prop that was very simular to the Warp.Whats the Best Prop ? I know this
opens
> the great can of "Worms" and I'd like to hear from members that have used
> more than one kind of Prop .The GSC prop is not an option .My Challenger
came
> with a wooden prop and dirt and small gravel do a number on them not to
mention
> being affected by moisture . I would like to hear from a few of you as to
> what the best prop is and what dimeter and pitch your using
> Best David Cecil
> KF3 895DC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | broschart <cfbflyer(at)localnet.com> |
| Subject: | traveling in new york state |
i thought this might be of intrest to some one , so am passing it along
Have a good day - Charlie
"Jacob J. Rieper, Legislative Director" wrote:
> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/kdTolB/TM
>
> From NRA:
>
> The District Attorney in Albany County and Queens 18 months ago issued an
> order to arrest anyone coming through the airports with a handgun in their
> luggage, regardless if the handgun was being transported properly by FAA
> regulations. The criteria is if you do not have a NY license, you are
> charged. So what's happening is 2 different scenarios:
>
> 1. People are flying into New York from other states, most but not all of
> whom have carry permits from their home states, and are carrying a
> pistol. When they go to fly home, they declare the gun, which has always
> been unloaded and locked up properly in their checked luggage, but if they
> cannot produce a NY license, they are promptly charged with illegal weapon
> possession, and their gun confiscated forever. (The Albany airport sheriff
> has been doing it as a lower class misdemeanor, the LaGuardia cases were
> charged as a felony.) As their home state permit is not reciprocal, and
> they were in NY state for an amount of time carrying a handgun, this group
> is screwed.
>
> 2. People are DRIVING to the airport from another state where the NY
> airport is their closest one to fly out of, and are getting popped right
> off the bat an hour or two from their home. In these cases, we are going
> to war for them being covered by FOPA, even the Sheriff's office and TSA in
> Albany have argued over that with the DA, but he won't budge. He did,
> however, blink on the two cases from Albany, with the people getting a
> walk. Didn't get their guns back, though, either time.
>
> Bottom line, UNLESS you are in possession of a VALID New York pistol
> license, DO NOT bring a handgun in your luggage to the airport, you will be
> charged.
>
> This is not being done in any other state in the country except at Logan
> international in Boston, (same thing there) but even at O'Hare in Illinois,
> if you come in from another state and meet FAA guidelines, they feel you
> are covered by FOPA and off you go a happy camper.
>
> Jacob J. Rieper, Legislative Director
> New York State Rifle & Pistol Association
> http://www.nysrpa.org
> http://www.rpa-pac.org
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NYSRPA-alert/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> NYSRPA-alert-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | NSI firewall crank oil seal |
I just returned from the Mecca after a great week with nearly perfect
weather. Every year that place gets better, including the facilities at
camp Scholler. I finally found the Skystar display. It wasn't much, but
considering their financial situation I was surprised to see them there at
all. The airshow gets better every year, and as has been in the past couple
years, Jimmy Franklin in his "jet" Waco was the most exciting of the bunch
(IMHO). The Bulldog was a close second with Patty Wagstaff and her usual
greatness also putting on a beautiful show. Lowell, I tried to look you up,
but never did find the Homebuilt Camping area and nobody I talked to could
tell me where it was.
Anyway, I've had a chance to get a good look at my oil seal problem and it
appears it has definitely popped about half way out. The good news is that
it also appears that if I remove the oil tank it should be accessible enough
to replace the seal without removing the engine. The new seal hasn't yet
arrived, but I plan to start tear down this afternoon to get a head start.
I'll post an update when there's something new. Thanks to Rick, Peter, and
others for their helpful advice.
Darrel
S5/NSI/CAP
NE Michigan
72, thin ovc, light breeze
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI firewall crank oil seal |
Good news Darrel. Glad it is a simpler fix than you
thought.
Did you see or hear about a KitFox breaking a tail
wheel or spring while you were there? A friend just
got back yesterday and said that they had to close the
runway for a bit while he cleared the runway the hard
way. Didn't know who it was. I am not sure that my
friend was right about it being a KF either. He is a
mechanic, but not a homebuilder and some people get
homebuilts confused.
Kurt S.
--- Fox5flyer wrote:
> I just returned from the Mecca after a great week
> with nearly perfect
> weather. Every year that place gets better,
> including the facilities at
> camp Scholler. I finally found the Skystar display.
> It wasn't much, but
> considering their financial situation I was
> surprised to see them there at
> all. The airshow gets better every year, and as has
> been in the past couple
> years, Jimmy Franklin in his "jet" Waco was the most
> exciting of the bunch
> (IMHO). The Bulldog was a close second with Patty
> Wagstaff and her usual
> greatness also putting on a beautiful show. Lowell,
> I tried to look you up,
> but never did find the Homebuilt Camping area and
> nobody I talked to could
> tell me where it was.
>
> Anyway, I've had a chance to get a good look at my
> oil seal problem and it
> appears it has definitely popped about half way out.
> The good news is that
> it also appears that if I remove the oil tank it
> should be accessible enough
> to replace the seal without removing the engine.
> The new seal hasn't yet
> arrived, but I plan to start tear down this
> afternoon to get a head start.
> I'll post an update when there's something new.
> Thanks to Rick, Peter, and
> others for their helpful advice.
>
> Darrel
> S5/NSI/CAP
> NE Michigan
> 72, thin ovc, light breeze
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Firm" <pianome2(at)mchsi.com> |
I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G envelope
change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
very similar.
Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I see
I'm going to need air coming in...
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
Sure thing Howard,
I'll try to keep my info columns aligned for ya'.
Sorry if they get skewed... :-)
The wing sweep moves the center of lift, but not the
cg limits, fwd. (Note: The wing weight moves fwd
too, darn.) You still use the wing root leading edge
for the datum. Sweep hardly affects it.
The CG limits that I applied were:
Most fwd = 9.96 Most aft = 14.75
My version of "level" gave me:
WT point WT ARM MOMENT
Rt main 440 -1 7/8 -825
Lft main 435 -1 7/8 -815.625
Tail wl (Maule 56 163.45 9170.0
w/steel springs)
total 931 7529.375
Empty CG = 8.087
This kept me at the front of the CG range solo and
w/little gas, but gives me max cargo capability. You
may like a more aft cg on yours, so don't treat my
outcome as anything but my preference.
Doors: I don't have the bubble doors, but I think
that you can still use those clear snap vents on the
front, less curved part of your doors. You have to
put them high enough above your side cowl exhaust to
prevent cowl air coming in during climbs, etc. Maybe
above the center cross member would do it?
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Howard Firm wrote:
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know
> what the 1 degree swept wings does to the
> calculations. Does the Datum change?
> Does the C-G envelope change?
> Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for
> a reference as we are very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any
> vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin
> is very sealed and I see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI firewall crank oil seal |
Nope, didn't hear anything about it Kurt. Might have happened after I left
on Friday morning though. Not many Foxes there that I could find. Didn't
seem to be an area set aside for them. I did manage to find 3 of them lined
up, but none were list people. At least they wouldn't admit to it. :-)
There was an airplane in the ultra light area called the Euro Fox. Looked
to me like a Vixen IV that had a few minor changes made to it. Couldn't
find anybody there who would talk about it though.
Darrel
>
> Good news Darrel. Glad it is a simpler fix than you
> thought.
>
> Did you see or hear about a KitFox breaking a tail
> wheel or spring while you were there? A friend just
> got back yesterday and said that they had to close the
> runway for a bit while he cleared the runway the hard
> way. Didn't know who it was. I am not sure that my
> friend was right about it being a KF either. He is a
> mechanic, but not a homebuilder and some people get
> homebuilts confused.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- Fox5flyer wrote:
>
> > I just returned from the Mecca after a great week
> > with nearly perfect
> > weather. Every year that place gets better,
> > including the facilities at
> > camp Scholler. I finally found the Skystar display.
> > It wasn't much, but
> > considering their financial situation I was
> > surprised to see them there at
> > all. The airshow gets better every year, and as has
> > been in the past couple
> > years, Jimmy Franklin in his "jet" Waco was the most
> > exciting of the bunch
> > (IMHO). The Bulldog was a close second with Patty
> > Wagstaff and her usual
> > greatness also putting on a beautiful show. Lowell,
> > I tried to look you up,
> > but never did find the Homebuilt Camping area and
> > nobody I talked to could
> > tell me where it was.
> >
> > Anyway, I've had a chance to get a good look at my
> > oil seal problem and it
> > appears it has definitely popped about half way out.
> > The good news is that
> > it also appears that if I remove the oil tank it
> > should be accessible enough
> > to replace the seal without removing the engine.
> > The new seal hasn't yet
> > arrived, but I plan to start tear down this
> > afternoon to get a head start.
> > I'll post an update when there's something new.
> > Thanks to Rick, Peter, and
> > others for their helpful advice.
> >
> > Darrel
> > S5/NSI/CAP
> > NE Michigan
> > 72, thin ovc, light breeze
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
Howard, I used the Vista Vents on my bubble doors. I placed them near the
leading edge just below face height. That was the only flat spot I could
use, but it was good spot and they work well. Available in Spruce catalog.
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Firm" <pianome2(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
envelope
> change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
> very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John E. King " <kingjohn(at)erols.com> |
Bruce,
I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
replaced by Frank Miller. I have his new business card and his title is
President/CEO. I always liked Frank and he has always been very
straight forward in answering my questions.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Bruce Harrington wrote:
>
>Wonder who's replacing Ed. John McBean?
>bh
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | NSI oil seal replacement update |
I'm having trouble removing the bolt that holds the rear pulley to the
crankshaft on my NSI so I can change the seal. That puppy is tight!
Anybody have any tricks? Do I need to just get a bigger cheater bar? I
don't have room for pneumatic impact and I'm paranoid about breaking
something.
Also, when I reinstall the bolt, what is the torque spec for it?
Thanks,
Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <brettandsandy(at)numail.org> |
I agree.
Frank has treated me right more than once.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John E. King
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: skystar
Bruce,
I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
replaced by Frank Miller. I have his new business card and his title is
President/CEO. I always liked Frank and he has always been very
straight forward in answering my questions.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Bruce Harrington wrote:
>
>Wonder who's replacing Ed. John McBean?
>bh
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax Engine Exchange |
I wonder if anyone can clarify the situation with this Rotax engine exchange
program please.
The way I read it Rotax have lowered the price for the purpose of this
program from the retail price to the sale price. They are then offering a
trade-in price that matches the sale price therefore all one has to pay is
the freight.
However my friend is sure that one will also have to pay the difference
between the sale or trade-in price and the retail price.
Does anyone know which of us is correct or care to comment.
My friend feels he is right because it states the customer will pay the sale
price plus the freight price. I admit this is confusing but consider it just
a technical wording.
Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh anybody? |
| From: | "Allan Aaron" <aaaron(at)tvp.com.au> |
Lowell
Are you planning to do a write up of your trip - route, learnings, etc?
Would be great to see it.
Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
Darrel,
We left for Oshkosh one day before your e-mail post. We camped in
General Aviation Camping to be closer to town and the more reasonable
eating. We were fortunate enough to be on the same row as the showers.
Home now after putting 46 hours on the old KF. Got in about 3:00 pm
local time. Had a great time, but rushed out as I have to be in Orlando
Thursday for a son's wedding and didn't know how the weather gods would
look at us on our way home. Actually took only three days, though. We
went in as a flight of eight - all from the West Coast..
Sorry I missed you and some of the others.
Lowell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> |
Is is yours? If so, well done!
>
> TAILDRAGGER
> EASY, THAT'S TOO MUCH.
>
>Taildragger, I hate your guts,
>I have the license, ratings and such.
>But to make you go straight is driving me nuts.
>With hours of teaching and the controls in my clutch.
>It takes a little rudder, easy, that's too much.
>
>You see, I learned to fly in a tricycle gear
>with one up front and two in the rear.
>She was sleek and clean and easy to steer.
>But this miserable thing with tires and struts.
>Takes a little rudder, easy, that's too much.
>
>It demands your attention on the take-off roll.
>Or it'll head towards Jones's as you pour on the coal.
>Gotta hang loose, don't over control.
>
>This wicked little plane is just too much.
>With a lot of zigzagging and words obscene
>I think I've mastered this slippery machine.
>It's not that bad if you have the touch.
>Just a little rudder, easy, that's too much.
>
>I relax for a second and from the corner of my eye,
>I suddenly realize with a gasp and a cry.
>That's my own tail that's going by.
>You ground looping wreck; I hate your guts,
>Give a little rudder, Great Scott,
>
> EASY, THAT'S TOO MUCH.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
Hi John,
Thanks for the feedback!
bh
> Bruce,
>
> I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
> replaced by Frank Miller. I have his new business card and his title is
> President/CEO. I always liked Frank and he has always been very
> straight forward in answering my questions.
>
> --
> John King
> Warrenton, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Chaney <mdps_mc(at)swoca.net> |
Dee
Sorry for the delay. I was out of town.
Mike
http://www.usjabiru.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dee Young
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Jabiru
Mike what is the web site address?
Dee Young
Model II N345DY
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Chaney<mailto:mdps_mc(at)swoca.net>
To: "Kitfox (E-mail)" 1.9 DATE_IN_FUTURE_03_06
Date :
kitfox-list(at)matronics.com%201.9%20DATE_IN_
FUTURE_03_06%20Date%20:%20kitfox-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 6:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Jabiru
>
I'm just now catching up on the list activity after a few days out and
noticed much discussion concerning the Jabiru and the Kitfox.
I installed a Jabiru 2200 on my Model IV two years ago and have been happy
with the performance. I had a 582 before the Jabiru and feel the Jabiru
has
increased performance. I now cruse in the low 90 MPG's.
I maintained the round cowling which required the most work in the entire
installation. I have some pictures posted on the Jabiru USA website.
There
are also other Kitfox pictures posted on this site also.
I must say the the folks at Jabiru USA were wonderful to work with. Even
when I experienced a problem a year after the sale they were still helpful
and wanted to see me flying again.
Mike Chaney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gill Levesque <canpilot03(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Throtle cables Rotax 582 |
Hi 582 owners;
I need to change my carburater cables! ( have any of you done so!!!)The ones
from the carb to the throtle reverser bell crank!! Does anyone know if these are
a standard length or have to be custom made?? I have the older style carb tops
with the small adjusters!!( new ones have a long curved brass tube!!)
Also ,I tried to turn my idle speed (1800) down to eliminate "FLOAT" on landings
and the engine shakes and shudders so bad at 1650 that I think it will jump
off the mount !!! What can I do to smoothen it out????
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Throtle cables Rotax 582 |
> From: Gill Levesque [canpilot03(at)yahoo.ca]
> Also ,I tried to turn my idle speed (1800) down to eliminate "FLOAT" on landings
> and the engine shakes and shudders so bad at 1650 that I think it will jump off
the
> mount !!! What can I do to smoothen it out????
I think that is where the clutch comes handy, Gill. Not having one myself, it's
only a guess. This being said, any RPM under 2,000 is not recommended, I think.
I seldom let my 582 go under 3,000. Does she float? Yes. You just have to include
it in your landing distance estimate. I have now over 80 hours on my Kitfox
and I think I start to get the hang of it. Including the "float."
No ideas about the throttle cable, though. Good luck.
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Savener" <david_savener(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throtle cables Rotax 582 |
My son just gave me rides in his SeaWing with a 582. He has the clutch to lessen
the need for brakes when on the water. That clutch is wonderful. I will
put one on my kitfox soon.
Dave S
----- Original Message -----
From: Michel Verheughe<mailto:michel(at)online.no>
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 7:46 AM
Subject: SV: Kitfox-List: Throtle cables Rotax 582
> From: Gill Levesque [canpilot03(at)yahoo.ca]
> Also ,I tried to turn my idle speed (1800) down to eliminate "FLOAT" on landings
> and the engine shakes and shudders so bad at 1650 that I think it will jump
off the
> mount !!! What can I do to smoothen it out????
I think that is where the clutch comes handy, Gill. Not having one myself, it's
only a guess. This being said, any RPM under 2,000 is not recommended, I think.
I seldom let my 582 go under 3,000. Does she float? Yes. You just have to
include it in your landing distance estimate. I have now over 80 hours on my
Kitfox and I think I start to get the hang of it. Including the "float."
No ideas about the throttle cable, though. Good luck.
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc Arseneault" <northernultralights(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Throtle cables Rotax 582 |
Hi Gil,
Bob at Light Engine Services can make you new cables. Make him a drawing and fax
it to him or send the old ones. His # is (780) 418-4164. Bob does the cables
for 75% of the Ultralights. As for the engine idling rough, I don't think there
is anything to do other then keeping it at higher RPM's. On the ground I usually
keep it at 3000 or more and when I am coming in for a landing, approx. 2000
and adjust it from there to get a smoother idle. I am sometimes coming in
with a bit of power and this solves all of these lower RPM/engine roughness problems.
Joy of flying a 582 Gil!
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
From: Gill Levesque canpilot03(at)yahoo.ca Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com To:
kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Kitfox-List: Throtle cables Rotax 582 Date:
Levesque &
br clear=all>Enjoy 25MB of inbox storage and 10MB per file attachment with MSN
Premium. Join now and get the first two months FREE*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rex(at)awarenest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Engine Exchange |
Rex,
Hi from another Rex. As I read it it seems clear to me
that to replace my 582 I will pay almost $4000 after
shipping. Savings of about $800. I had only read the text
posted by the list member who first reported this.
Pertinent copy below.
"The owner will pay $3838.00 USD to the Service
Center, plus any shipping and handling of the new engine.
Suggested retail = $4638. Trade in sale price = $3838
Effective date: July 1, 2004
Termination date: October 30, 2004"
Sadly, it would be too good to be true otherwise.
Rex
South Park, Colorado
M2 582
On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 12:26:32 +0930
"Rex & Jan Shaw" wrote:
>
>
> I wonder if anyone can clarify the situation with this
>Rotax engine exchange
> program please.
> The way I read it Rotax have lowered the price for the
>purpose of this
> program from the retail price to the sale price. They
>are then offering a
> trade-in price that matches the sale price therefore all
>one has to pay is
> the freight.
> However my friend is sure that one will also have to pay
>the difference
> between the sale or trade-in price and the retail price.
> Does anyone know which of us is correct or care to
>comment.
> My friend feels he is right because it states the
>customer will pay the sale
> price plus the freight price. I admit this is confusing
>but consider it just
> a technical wording.
> Rex.
> rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throtle cables Rotax 582 |
Rotax published an AD some years back. Idle RPM must be slightly higher than
2000. The reason is because of excessive gear slap in the gearbox. with the
engine idle adjusted to the rpm you gave you are destroying your gearbox.
Immediately check all mounting castings for cracks in the area of the bolt
pass through holes. If I were you I'd re-check torque of the gearbox
mounting bolts PRIOR TO NEXT FLIGHT.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gill Levesque" <canpilot03(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Throtle cables Rotax 582
>
> Hi 582 owners;
>
> I need to change my carburater cables! ( have any of you done so!!!)The
ones from the carb to the throtle reverser bell crank!! Does anyone know if
these are a standard length or have to be custom made?? I have the older
style carb tops with the small adjusters!!( new ones have a long curved
brass tube!!)
>
> Also ,I tried to turn my idle speed (1800) down to eliminate "FLOAT" on
landings and the engine shakes and shudders so bad at 1650 that I think it
will jump off the mount !!! What can I do to smoothen it out????
>
> Gil Levesque
> C-IGVL
>
>
> Still alive and flyin!!!!
>
> Gil
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W Duke <n981ms(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
Howard,
I used Van's vents mounted in the side of the cowling. They work well. I coupled the eyeball to the NACA with appropriate sized radiator hose. There are some photos of the outside at Sport Flight: http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/AloneA.jpg
I will see if I have some of the inside handy and post them.
Maxwell
Howard Firm wrote:
I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G envelope
change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
very similar.
Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I see
I'm going to need air coming in...
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Maxwell Duke
S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jareds <jareds(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Engine Exchange |
One of my ultralite friends just traded his high time motor in but has
yet to be paid.
Being a small company overall we discussed he might be on the 90 day out
payment plan but he loves his new motor. He did call them though to
indicate that if they don't pay soon to just send the motor back to
him. We'll see!
Jared
rex(at)awarenest.com wrote:
>
>Rex,
> Hi from another Rex. As I read it it seems clear to me
>that to replace my 582 I will pay almost $4000 after
>shipping. Savings of about $800. I had only read the text
>posted by the list member who first reported this.
>Pertinent copy below.
>
>"The owner will pay $3838.00 USD to the Service
>Center, plus any shipping and handling of the new engine.
>Suggested retail = $4638. Trade in sale price = $3838
>Effective date: July 1, 2004
>Termination date: October 30, 2004"
>
> Sadly, it would be too good to be true otherwise.
>
>Rex
>South Park, Colorado
>M2 582
>
>
>On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 12:26:32 +0930
> "Rex & Jan Shaw" wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>I wonder if anyone can clarify the situation with this
>>Rotax engine exchange
>>program please.
>>The way I read it Rotax have lowered the price for the
>>purpose of this
>>program from the retail price to the sale price. They
>>are then offering a
>>trade-in price that matches the sale price therefore all
>>one has to pay is
>>the freight.
>>However my friend is sure that one will also have to pay
>>the difference
>>between the sale or trade-in price and the retail price.
>>Does anyone know which of us is correct or care to
>>comment.
>>My friend feels he is right because it states the
>>customer will pay the sale
>>price plus the freight price. I admit this is confusing
>>but consider it just
>>a technical wording.
>> Rex.
>>rexjan(at)bigpond.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jeff.hays(at)aselia.com" <jeff.hays(at)aselia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
I have both a set of homemade NACA vents in the cowl, as well as
some 3.5" vents in the bubble doors. I still feel like I'm going
to roast alive in the summer. In any case the 3.5" snap vents
came from Wicks and fit fine in the bubble doors.
Original Message:
-----------------
From: W Duke n981ms(at)yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 09:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
Howard,
I used Van's vents mounted in the side of the cowling. They work well.
I coupled the eyeball to the NACA with appropriate sized radiator hose.
There are some photos of the outside at Sport Flight:
http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/AloneA.jpg
I will see if I have some of the inside handy and post them.
Maxwell
Howard Firm wrote:
I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G envelope
change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
very similar.
Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I see
I'm going to need air coming in...
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Maxwell Duke
S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
Hi Gil,
When I had my 582 I had the idle set to around 1700, but it was never run there.
As it idled down on the IV-1200 Kitfox upon landing rollout, I added enough
throttle to bring the rpm up to above 2500. Taxi always took over 3000 rpm.
I spent a lot of time tinkering with the idle mixture/air screw to get it
reasonably smooth at 2000 rpm. Both carb slides had to be at the same spot at
idle. Keep trying!
Cheers,
bh
ex-582ed IV-1200, 800+ hrs
Sonex N321SX, Jab 3300, 90.7 hrs
> Hi 582 owners;
>
> I need to change my carburater cables! ( have any of you done so!!!)The ones
from the carb to the throtle reverser bell crank!! Does anyone know if these are
a standard length or have to be custom made?? I have the older style carb tops
with the small adjusters!!( new ones have a long curved brass tube!!)
>
> Also ,I tried to turn my idle speed (1800) down to eliminate "FLOAT" on
landings and the engine shakes and shudders so bad at 1650 that I think it will
jump off the mount !!! What can I do to smoothen it out????
>
> Gil Levesque
> C-IGVL
>
>
> Still alive and flyin!!!!
>
> Gil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
| Subject: | Venting Cockpit - was W/B question |
It helps to cool the cockpit when you have nACA vents to do this.
At the rear of the turtle deck, cut out on both top halves a flap about 2"x10"
(I don't have the old Fox handy to check size), and rivet it on so the flap can
open when the NACA vents add air pressure inside the cockpit. This worked for
me. Otherwise you are ramming air into the cockpit (read compressing, thus
heating it). Pitts and Eagle bipes have an exhaust vent for each inlet vent.
bh
Ex-N194KF, 582ed IV-1200, 800+ hrs
> I have both a set of homemade NACA vents in the cowl, as well as
> some 3.5" vents in the bubble doors. I still feel like I'm going
> to roast alive in the summer. In any case the 3.5" snap vents
> came from Wicks and fit fine in the bubble doors.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John E. King " <kingjohn(at)erols.com> |
Gary and Robert,
Rotax is giving a special deal for those who own a 912S that does not
have a slipper clutch. Lockwood installed my slipper clutch and
exchanged my starter for the heavy duty starter for only $800. I
shipped them the gear box and the original starter and they returned the
gear box with the new clutch installed and the new starter within a
week. Call Lockwood and see if the offer still exists.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>From: "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris(at)intuit.com>
>To: "'kitfox-list(at)matronics.com'"
> cost?
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the
> cos t?
>Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 09:53:10 -0700
>
>Nice website Gary,
>
>Do you have puddle jumper floats on your plane?
>
>Robert
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kitfoxjunky
>To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost?
>
>
>
>I have my Rotax 912S in for inspection. The shop doing the work has
>recommended that I install the slipper clutch. They say that this really
>smooths out the engine, especially at lower RPM, and will help reduce
>problems I have had with the exhaust cracking due to vibration. My Fox is
>up high, on anphib floats, so the chance of a prop strike is minimal, which
>is why I was not too concerned about not having the clutch.
>
>The cost is about $ 1000, but the shop says they have a slightly used one
>they can install for $ 600. Is it worth it?
>
>
>Gary Walsh
>C-GOOT
>www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they |
said he was
I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
replaced by Frank Miller.
I only ever communicated with Ed Downs by E'mail a couple of times and only
about a month ago. I had no idea he was leaving but he impressed me as a
nice guy. I am sorry he has left Skystar and wish him well. I'm sure Frank
Miller will also do a good job. I just hope he is able to get Skystar going
well especially now the Sports Pilot and Sports Plane Rules are through. I
hate to see a business having a hard time when they don't deserve it. Also
as Kitfoxer's that's sort of our headquarters so let's hope things look up.
Rex
Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | NSI oil seal replacement update |
Have someone hold the flywheel starter gear with the tip of a large
screwdriver. Also make sure you are turning it the correct way. It is not a
left thread. It should just unscrew like a normal lefty loosy righty tighty
bolt. The Subaru manual says 47-54 ftlbs with threads oiled and flange
sealant on the flange.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI oil seal replacement update
I'm having trouble removing the bolt that holds the rear pulley to the
crankshaft on my NSI so I can change the seal. That puppy is tight!
Anybody have any tricks? Do I need to just get a bigger cheater bar? I
don't have room for pneumatic impact and I'm paranoid about breaking
something.
Also, when I reinstall the bolt, what is the torque spec for it?
Thanks,
Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net> |
Just go slow on that door. I would invest in a diamond chip hole saw and go
slow about half through on both sides. Sand/polish edges. One crack and she
is a gonner. Do it with the door off and supported. Did i mention going
slow. :)
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
jeff.hays(at)aselia.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
I have both a set of homemade NACA vents in the cowl, as well as
some 3.5" vents in the bubble doors. I still feel like I'm going
to roast alive in the summer. In any case the 3.5" snap vents
came from Wicks and fit fine in the bubble doors.
Original Message:
-----------------
From: W Duke n981ms(at)yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 09:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
Howard,
I used Van's vents mounted in the side of the cowling. They work well.
I coupled the eyeball to the NACA with appropriate sized radiator hose.
There are some photos of the outside at Sport Flight:
http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/AloneA.jpg
I will see if I have some of the inside handy and post them.
Maxwell
Howard Firm wrote:
I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G envelope
change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
very similar.
Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I see
I'm going to need air coming in...
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Maxwell Duke
S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI oil seal replacement update |
Thanks Rick. I appreciate the help.
Darrel
>
> Have someone hold the flywheel starter gear with the tip of a large
> screwdriver. Also make sure you are turning it the correct way. It is not
a
> left thread. It should just unscrew like a normal lefty loosy righty
tighty
> bolt. The Subaru manual says 47-54 ftlbs with threads oiled and flange
> sealant on the flange.
> Rick N656T
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: Kitfox List
> Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI oil seal replacement update
>
>
> I'm having trouble removing the bolt that holds the rear pulley to the
> crankshaft on my NSI so I can change the seal. That puppy is tight!
> Anybody have any tricks? Do I need to just get a bigger cheater bar? I
> don't have room for pneumatic impact and I'm paranoid about breaking
> something.
> Also, when I reinstall the bolt, what is the torque spec for it?
> Thanks,
> Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
Good advice Rick. That acrylic can be brittle and will easily crack.
However it's not necessary to go with that expensive diamond saw. A
standard plumbers fine tooth hole saw (Home Depot, hardware stores, etc)
will work nicely and a lot cheaper. The trick is to run it backward and let
it grind its way through. Very little danger if careful. Did you mention
to go slow? :-)
Darrel
>
> Just go slow on that door. I would invest in a diamond chip hole saw and
go
> slow about half through on both sides. Sand/polish edges. One crack and
she
> is a gonner. Do it with the door off and supported. Did i mention going
> slow. :)
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> jeff.hays(at)aselia.com
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
>
>
>
> I have both a set of homemade NACA vents in the cowl, as well as
> some 3.5" vents in the bubble doors. I still feel like I'm going
> to roast alive in the summer. In any case the 3.5" snap vents
> came from Wicks and fit fine in the bubble doors.
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: W Duke n981ms(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 09:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
> Howard,
> I used Van's vents mounted in the side of the cowling. They work well.
> I coupled the eyeball to the NACA with appropriate sized radiator hose.
> There are some photos of the outside at Sport Flight:
> http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/AloneA.jpg
> I will see if I have some of the inside handy and post them.
>
> Maxwell
>
> Howard Firm wrote:
>
>
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
envelope
> change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
> very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
>
> Maxwell Duke
> S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W Duke <n981ms(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
Howard,
Maxwell here again. In the summer I also use an automotive sun shade. There
are photos on Sport Flight. I cannot express in words the difference it makes
in the South Georgia heat. It does make the Fox feel more enclosed, however.
Fox5flyer wrote:
Good advice Rick. That acrylic can be brittle and will easily crack.
However it's not necessary to go with that expensive diamond saw. A
standard plumbers fine tooth hole saw (Home Depot, hardware stores, etc)
will work nicely and a lot cheaper. The trick is to run it backward and let
it grind its way through. Very little danger if careful. Did you mention
to go slow? :-)
Darrel
>
> Just go slow on that door. I would invest in a diamond chip hole saw and
go
> slow about half through on both sides. Sand/polish edges. One crack and
she
> is a gonner. Do it with the door off and supported. Did i mention going
> slow. :)
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> jeff.hays(at)aselia.com
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
>
>
>
> I have both a set of homemade NACA vents in the cowl, as well as
> some 3.5" vents in the bubble doors. I still feel like I'm going
> to roast alive in the summer. In any case the 3.5" snap vents
> came from Wicks and fit fine in the bubble doors.
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: W Duke n981ms(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 09:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
> Howard,
> I used Van's vents mounted in the side of the cowling. They work well.
> I coupled the eyeball to the NACA with appropriate sized radiator hose.
> There are some photos of the outside at Sport Flight:
> http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/AloneA.jpg
> I will see if I have some of the inside handy and post them.
>
> Maxwell
>
> Howard Firm
wrote:
>
>
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
envelope
> change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
> very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
>
> Maxwell Duke
> S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Maxwell Duke
S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
Run the hole saw backwards. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
> Just go slow on that door. I would invest in a diamond chip hole saw and
go
> slow about half through on both sides. Sand/polish edges. One crack and
she
> is a gonner. Do it with the door off and supported. Did i mention going
> slow. :)
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> jeff.hays(at)aselia.com
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
>
>
>
> I have both a set of homemade NACA vents in the cowl, as well as
> some 3.5" vents in the bubble doors. I still feel like I'm going
> to roast alive in the summer. In any case the 3.5" snap vents
> came from Wicks and fit fine in the bubble doors.
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: W Duke n981ms(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 09:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
> Howard,
> I used Van's vents mounted in the side of the cowling. They work well.
> I coupled the eyeball to the NACA with appropriate sized radiator hose.
> There are some photos of the outside at Sport Flight:
> http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/AloneA.jpg
> I will see if I have some of the inside handy and post them.
>
> Maxwell
>
> Howard Firm wrote:
>
>
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
envelope
> change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
> very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
>
> Maxwell Duke
> S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
Rex,
Ed is the major owner of Skystars. I believe that Skystar has split the
company into two parts. Frank runs the kit business and Ed runs the
sportplane business.
Cliff
>
> I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
> replaced by Frank Miller.
>
> I only ever communicated with Ed Downs by E'mail a couple of times and
only
> about a month ago. I had no idea he was leaving but he impressed me as a
> nice guy. I am sorry he has left Skystar and wish him well. I'm sure Frank
> Miller will also do a good job. I just hope he is able to get Skystar
going
> well especially now the Sports Pilot and Sports Plane Rules are through. I
> hate to see a business having a hard time when they don't deserve it. Also
> as Kitfoxer's that's sort of our headquarters so let's hope things look
up.
> Rex
>
> Australia.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jeff.hays(at)aselia.com" <jeff.hays(at)aselia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
I cut my doors for the vents in about ten minutes each with a dremel.
Chopped the holes with a cutter wheel, and final shape with a sanding
drum. A simpler job on a Kitfox you'll hardly find. :) Biggest pain
was cleaning up the acrylic dust, which static attaches to everything.
Original Message:
-----------------
From: W Duke n981ms(at)yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 05:43:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
Howard,
Maxwell here again. In the summer I also use an automotive sun shade.
There are photos on Sport Flight. I cannot express in words the difference
it makes in the South Georgia heat. It does make the Fox feel more
enclosed, however.
Fox5flyer wrote:
Good advice Rick. That acrylic can be brittle and will easily crack.
However it's not necessary to go with that expensive diamond saw. A
standard plumbers fine tooth hole saw (Home Depot, hardware stores, etc)
will work nicely and a lot cheaper. The trick is to run it backward and let
it grind its way through. Very little danger if careful. Did you mention
to go slow? :-)
Darrel
>
> Just go slow on that door. I would invest in a diamond chip hole saw and
go
> slow about half through on both sides. Sand/polish edges. One crack and
she
> is a gonner. Do it with the door off and supported. Did i mention going
> slow. :)
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> jeff.hays(at)aselia.com
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
>
>
>
> I have both a set of homemade NACA vents in the cowl, as well as
> some 3.5" vents in the bubble doors. I still feel like I'm going
> to roast alive in the summer. In any case the 3.5" snap vents
> came from Wicks and fit fine in the bubble doors.
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: W Duke n981ms(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 09:13:46 -0700 (PDT)
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
> Howard,
> I used Van's vents mounted in the side of the cowling. They work well.
> I coupled the eyeball to the NACA with appropriate sized radiator hose.
> There are some photos of the outside at Sport Flight:
> http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/AloneA.jpg
> I will see if I have some of the inside handy and post them.
>
> Maxwell
>
> Howard Firm
wrote:
>
>
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
envelope
> change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
> very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
>
> Maxwell Duke
> S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Maxwell Duke
S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jareds <jareds(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Preflight checklist |
I looked on the sportflight site for some sample checklists but found none?
Can someone point me in the direction of a few that i can modify and review?
Thanks
Jared
John E. King wrote:
>
>Gary and Robert,
>
>Rotax is giving a special deal for those who own a 912S that does not
>have a slipper clutch. Lockwood installed my slipper clutch and
>exchanged my starter for the heavy duty starter for only $800. I
>shipped them the gear box and the original starter and they returned the
>gear box with the new clutch installed and the new starter within a
>week. Call Lockwood and see if the offer still exists.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)inreach.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh anybody? |
Allan, That is the plan, but I am in the middle of getting ready for the
wedding of my youngest son in Orlando Florida Saturday - we are leaving for
there tomorrow morning. Then on return, I have to somehow convert my hangar
to an open house venue which we will have here in Cameron Park - I live in a
residential airpark. The formal reception will be in St. Augustine,
Florida.
This summer has been one event after another - busy.
In short for now, we flew a northern route out. following is the itinerary
Westbound:
Cameron Park CA - Lovelock, NV - Elko, NV where Hal joined us in his Rans
S-6 - Afton Wyoming where we overnighted.
Afton, WY- Worland, WY - New Castle, WY - New Castle, WY - Wall, SD where we
overnighted
Wall, SD - Pierre, SD - Chamberlain, SD - Fairmont, MN - Reedsburg, WS - OSH
The Return:
Osh - Fairmont, MN - Mitchell, SD where we overnighted.
Mitchell, SD - Custer, SD, Casper, Wy - Evanston, WY where we spent the
night.
Evanston - Elko, NV - Cameron Park, CA
The winds were in our face big time across Wyoming and there was a little
grumbling about the "Southern Route" home. While at Casper, some of the
guys wanted to have lunch - it was about 1 pm and others wanted to press on.
I was with the group that continued without lunch and we saw ground speeds
in the low 60s but we got into Evanston about 1730. The others saw ground
speeds in the 40s and had stop one additional time for fuel and arrived at
Evanston at 2130. This was not a fun day.
After spending 46 hours in that little airplane and 9 days camping out of
it, it has been only one day and I am already wanting to fly.
More later.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Aaron" <aaaron(at)tvp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Lowell
>
> Are you planning to do a write up of your trip - route, learnings, etc?
> Would be great to see it.
>
> Allan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Darrel,
>
> We left for Oshkosh one day before your e-mail post. We camped in
> General Aviation Camping to be closer to town and the more reasonable
> eating. We were fortunate enough to be on the same row as the showers.
>
> Home now after putting 46 hours on the old KF. Got in about 3:00 pm
> local time. Had a great time, but rushed out as I have to be in Orlando
> Thursday for a son's wedding and didn't know how the weather gods would
> look at us on our way home. Actually took only three days, though. We
> went in as a flight of eight - all from the West Coast..
>
> Sorry I missed you and some of the others.
>
> Lowell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schindler <mtschindler(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh anybody? |
If anyone wants to read Allan's story about his trip from Ca to Oshkosh in Avid MK-IV check this link http://www.avidflyeraircraft.com/aaron_travel.php - once you there if you want to participate by sending my your own travel story I'll be glad to include you.
Mark
Lowell Fitt wrote:
Allan, That is the plan, but I am in the middle of getting ready for the
wedding of my youngest son in Orlando Florida Saturday - we are leaving for
there tomorrow morning. Then on return, I have to somehow convert my hangar
to an open house venue which we will have here in Cameron Park - I live in a
residential airpark. The formal reception will be in St. Augustine,
Florida.
This summer has been one event after another - busy.
In short for now, we flew a northern route out. following is the itinerary
Westbound:
Cameron Park CA - Lovelock, NV - Elko, NV where Hal joined us in his Rans
S-6 - Afton Wyoming where we overnighted.
Afton, WY- Worland, WY - New Castle, WY - New Castle, WY - Wall, SD where we
overnighted
Wall, SD - Pierre, SD - Chamberlain, SD - Fairmont, MN - Reedsburg, WS - OSH
The Return:
Osh - Fairmont, MN - Mitchell, SD where we overnighted.
Mitchell, SD - Custer, SD, Casper, Wy - Evanston, WY where we spent the
night.
Evanston - Elko, NV - Cameron Park, CA
The winds were in our face big time across Wyoming and there was a little
grumbling about the "Southern Route" home. While at Casper, some of the
guys wanted to have lunch - it was about 1 pm and others wanted to press on.
I was with the group that continued without lunch and we saw ground speeds
in the low 60s but we got into Evanston about 1730. The others saw ground
speeds in the 40s and had stop one additional time for fuel and arrived at
Evanston at 2130. This was not a fun day.
After spending 46 hours in that little airplane and 9 days camping out of
it, it has been only one day and I am already wanting to fly.
More later.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Aaron"
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Lowell
>
> Are you planning to do a write up of your trip - route, learnings, etc?
> Would be great to see it.
>
> Allan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Darrel,
>
> We left for Oshkosh one day before your e-mail post. We camped in
> General Aviation Camping to be closer to town and the more reasonable
> eating. We were fortunate enough to be on the same row as the showers.
>
> Home now after putting 46 hours on the old KF. Got in about 3:00 pm
> local time. Had a great time, but rushed out as I have to be in Orlando
> Thursday for a son's wedding and didn't know how the weather gods would
> look at us on our way home. Actually took only three days, though. We
> went in as a flight of eight - all from the West Coast..
>
> Sorry I missed you and some of the others.
>
> Lowell
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Miller" <larsonmil3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
Cliff
Everything you said is completely WRONG!!!.
YOU should KNOW what you are talking about before starting rumors!!!!!
You should talk to Frank to get the story.
And I am not going to staring any rumors myself.
Mark Miller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for
Ed they said he was
>
> Rex,
> Ed is the major owner of Skystars. I believe that Skystar has split the
> company into two parts. Frank runs the kit business and Ed runs the
> sportplane business.
> Cliff
> >
> > I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
> > replaced by Frank Miller.
> >
> > I only ever communicated with Ed Downs by E'mail a couple of times and
> only
> > about a month ago. I had no idea he was leaving but he impressed me as a
> > nice guy. I am sorry he has left Skystar and wish him well. I'm sure
Frank
> > Miller will also do a good job. I just hope he is able to get Skystar
> going
> > well especially now the Sports Pilot and Sports Plane Rules are through.
I
> > hate to see a business having a hard time when they don't deserve it.
Also
> > as Kitfoxer's that's sort of our headquarters so let's hope things look
> up.
> > Rex
> >
> > Australia.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeRoy staley <itis50(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Preflight checklist |
I use the one that the man used who I bought my Fox
from. It goes like this: CIGAR TIP:
C: controls free and correct
I: instruments scan
G: gas or fuel
A: altimiter set
R: radios on proper frequency
T: trim and transponder
I: information on active runway or ATIS at some
airports
P: checking the pattern for other aircraft
Now go fly:
--- jareds wrote:
>
>
> I looked on the sportflight site for some sample
> checklists but found none?
> Can someone point me in the direction of a few that
> i can modify and review?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jared
>
>
> John E. King wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Gary and Robert,
> >
> >Rotax is giving a special deal for those who own a
> 912S that does not
> >have a slipper clutch. Lockwood installed my
> slipper clutch and
> >exchanged my starter for the heavy duty starter for
> only $800. I
> >shipped them the gear box and the original starter
> and they returned the
> >gear box with the new clutch installed and the new
> starter within a
> >week. Call Lockwood and see if the offer still
> exists.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RICHARD HUTSON" <rhutson(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
MARK YOU NEED TO READ THE ARTICLE IN AERO-NEWS, ED HAS RESIGNED. READ " NEW
SPORT FLYING COMPANY TAKES OFF" DATED 7/27/2004
http://www.aero-news.net/news/sport.cfm?ContentBlockID=83ece717-d34f-4153-91cf-7819e0024bf3&Dynamic=1&Range=NOW&FromDate=07%2F27%2F2004&ToDate=07%2F27%2F2004&Category=%2Fnews%2Fsport.cfm.
THIS IS THE LINK TO THE ARTICLE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris(at)intuit.com> |
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 11:18:51 -0700
Sounds like fun.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Schindler
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
If anyone wants to read Allan's story about his trip from Ca to Oshkosh in
Avid MK-IV check this link http://www.avidflyeraircraft.com/aaron_travel.php
- once you there if you want to participate by sending my your own travel
story I'll be glad to include you.
Mark
Lowell Fitt wrote:
Allan, That is the plan, but I am in the middle of getting ready for the
wedding of my youngest son in Orlando Florida Saturday - we are leaving for
there tomorrow morning. Then on return, I have to somehow convert my hangar
to an open house venue which we will have here in Cameron Park - I live in a
residential airpark. The formal reception will be in St. Augustine,
Florida.
This summer has been one event after another - busy.
In short for now, we flew a northern route out. following is the itinerary
Westbound:
Cameron Park CA - Lovelock, NV - Elko, NV where Hal joined us in his Rans
S-6 - Afton Wyoming where we overnighted.
Afton, WY- Worland, WY - New Castle, WY - New Castle, WY - Wall, SD where we
overnighted
Wall, SD - Pierre, SD - Chamberlain, SD - Fairmont, MN - Reedsburg, WS - OSH
The Return:
Osh - Fairmont, MN - Mitchell, SD where we overnighted.
Mitchell, SD - Custer, SD, Casper, Wy - Evanston, WY where we spent the
night.
Evanston - Elko, NV - Cameron Park, CA
The winds were in our face big time across Wyoming and there was a little
grumbling about the "Southern Route" home. While at Casper, some of the
guys wanted to have lunch - it was about 1 pm and others wanted to press on.
I was with the group that continued without lunch and we saw ground speeds
in the low 60s but we got into Evanston about 1730. The others saw ground
speeds in the 40s and had stop one additional time for fuel and arrived at
Evanston at 2130. This was not a fun day.
After spending 46 hours in that little airplane and 9 days camping out of
it, it has been only one day and I am already wanting to fly.
More later.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Aaron"
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Lowell
>
> Are you planning to do a write up of your trip - route, learnings, etc?
> Would be great to see it.
>
> Allan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Darrel,
>
> We left for Oshkosh one day before your e-mail post. We camped in
> General Aviation Camping to be closer to town and the more reasonable
> eating. We were fortunate enough to be on the same row as the showers.
>
> Home now after putting 46 hours on the old KF. Got in about 3:00 pm
> local time. Had a great time, but rushed out as I have to be in Orlando
> Thursday for a son's wedding and didn't know how the weather gods would
> look at us on our way home. Actually took only three days, though. We
> went in as a flight of eight - all from the West Coast..
>
> Sorry I missed you and some of the others.
>
> Lowell
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W Duke <n981ms(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | preflight checklist |
I added my preflight checklist to Sportflight. It is a compilation/distillation
from Kitfox Pilot's Guide and personal experience. It is in a continuous state
of refinement. Feel free to adapt or discard as you see fit.
Maxwell
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
Mark,
What rumor did I start? I didn't know Ed had resigned, sorry. But my comment
about the company splitting and the comment about who was running which
division was right on the money. Here is a clip from a news release found on
Skystar's web site:
"Like our single-celled friend, the amoeba, SkyStar Aircraft has divided
itself into two parts. The part we are all familiar with, that is, makers
of the famed line of Kitfox Aircraft, will now be known as SkyStar Aircraft
Corporation, Experimental/Manufacturing Division. This division will be
headed by a new President and CEO, Frank Miller. The newly created SkyStar
Aircraft Corporation, Sport Plane Division will be under the direction of
former SkyStar President, Ed Downs. Mr. Downs will now serve as the
President of the Sport Plane Division. "
I apologize for ruffling your feathers so badly. I have just cut off my left
hand to make sure I don't post anything in error again.
Best Regards,
Cliff
> Cliff
>
> Everything you said is completely WRONG!!!.
> YOU should KNOW what you are talking about before starting rumors!!!!!
> You should talk to Frank to get the story.
> And I am not going to staring any rumors myself.
>
>
> Mark Miller
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked
for
> Ed they said he was
>
>
>
> >
> > Rex,
> > Ed is the major owner of Skystars. I believe that Skystar has split the
> > company into two parts. Frank runs the kit business and Ed runs the
> > sportplane business.
> > Cliff
> > >
> > > I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
> > > replaced by Frank Miller.
> > >
> > > I only ever communicated with Ed Downs by E'mail a couple of times and
> > only
> > > about a month ago. I had no idea he was leaving but he impressed me as
a
> > > nice guy. I am sorry he has left Skystar and wish him well. I'm sure
> Frank
> > > Miller will also do a good job. I just hope he is able to get Skystar
> > going
> > > well especially now the Sports Pilot and Sports Plane Rules are
through.
> I
> > > hate to see a business having a hard time when they don't deserve it.
> Also
> > > as Kitfoxer's that's sort of our headquarters so let's hope things
look
> > up.
> > > Rex
> > >
> > > Australia.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
Thanks for the Link Richard. I read the article twice and still am not sure
what it is that they plan to do.
Darrel
PS: just a side note. In internet "netiquette" all caps generally means
you're yelling. :-)
>
> MARK YOU NEED TO READ THE ARTICLE IN AERO-NEWS, ED HAS RESIGNED. READ "
NEW
> SPORT FLYING COMPANY TAKES OFF" DATED 7/27/2004
>
http://www.aero-news.net/news/sport.cfm?ContentBlockID=83ece717-d34f-4153-91cf-7819e0024bf3&Dynamic=1&Range=NOW&FromDate=07%2F27%2F2004&ToDate=07%2F27%2F2004&Category=%2Fnews%2Fsport.cfm.
> THIS IS THE LINK TO THE ARTICLE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)inreach.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
My guess is that there is a lot more to this than has been released. I
tried to get a little info while at OSH, but was not successful. I can't
imagine though, a principle of a company - name that part owner - that is
in major financial stress as we all know, to simply resign and walk away.
My best wishes to Frank as he works to put Skystar back together.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Miller" <larsonmil3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for
Ed they said he was
>
> Cliff
>
> Everything you said is completely WRONG!!!.
> YOU should KNOW what you are talking about before starting rumors!!!!!
> You should talk to Frank to get the story.
> And I am not going to staring any rumors myself.
>
>
> Mark Miller
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked
for
> Ed they said he was
>
>
>
> >
> > Rex,
> > Ed is the major owner of Skystars. I believe that Skystar has split the
> > company into two parts. Frank runs the kit business and Ed runs the
> > sportplane business.
> > Cliff
> > >
> > > I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed they said he was
> > > replaced by Frank Miller.
> > >
> > > I only ever communicated with Ed Downs by E'mail a couple of times and
> > only
> > > about a month ago. I had no idea he was leaving but he impressed me as
a
> > > nice guy. I am sorry he has left Skystar and wish him well. I'm sure
> Frank
> > > Miller will also do a good job. I just hope he is able to get Skystar
> > going
> > > well especially now the Sports Pilot and Sports Plane Rules are
through.
> I
> > > hate to see a business having a hard time when they don't deserve it.
> Also
> > > as Kitfoxer's that's sort of our headquarters so let's hope things
look
> > up.
> > > Rex
> > >
> > > Australia.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeffry Larson <jeffryl(at)us.ibm.com> |
08/03/2004 14:23:27
I can't speak to the other tailwheels, but since my Kitfox Lite has the
rollerblade for a tailwheel, all I can say is that it works great. Have
over 100 landings on mine and given the fact that I fly off a 4000 foot
runway and most of the time have to taxi to the other end to take off, have
put quite a bit of runway under it.
I'm not yet concerned about it's life expectancy, however I have replaced
the front tires already. And since the rollerblade wheels can be purchased
at Walmart for $12 for a package of 4, not too concerned about that either.
Other Lite owners have commented that the rollerblade is not great in a
soft field, but you can bang the heck out of on a concrete runway and it
just keeps on ticking.
Jeffry Larson
MCSE - MCP+Internet
Advisory Software Engineer
Shark Open Systems Lab
San Jose, CA 95193
jeffryl(at)us.ibm.com
ext 66097
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh anybody? GPS |
Allan:
Do you get accurate altitude readings when using the Magellan 315 as GPS receiver
for the IPAC?
Mark Schindler wrote:
If anyone wants to read Allan's story about his trip from Ca to Oshkosh in Avid MK-IV check this link http://www.avidflyeraircraft.com/aaron_travel.php - once you there if you want to participate by sending my your own travel story I'll be glad to include you.
Mark
Lowell Fitt wrote:
Allan, That is the plan, but I am in the middle of getting ready for the
wedding of my youngest son in Orlando Florida Saturday - we are leaving for
there tomorrow morning. Then on return, I have to somehow convert my hangar
to an open house venue which we will have here in Cameron Park - I live in a
residential airpark. The formal reception will be in St. Augustine,
Florida.
This summer has been one event after another - busy.
In short for now, we flew a northern route out. following is the itinerary
Westbound:
Cameron Park CA - Lovelock, NV - Elko, NV where Hal joined us in his Rans
S-6 - Afton Wyoming where we overnighted.
Afton, WY- Worland, WY - New Castle, WY - New Castle, WY - Wall, SD where we
overnighted
Wall, SD - Pierre, SD - Chamberlain, SD - Fairmont, MN - Reedsburg, WS - OSH
The Return:
Osh - Fairmont, MN - Mitchell, SD where we overnighted.
Mitchell, SD - Custer, SD, Casper, Wy - Evanston, WY where we spent the
night.
Evanston - Elko, NV - Cameron Park, CA
The winds were in our face big time across Wyoming and there was a little
grumbling about the "Southern Route" home. While at Casper, some of the
guys wanted to have lunch - it was about 1 pm and others wanted to press on.
I was with the group that continued without lunch and we saw ground speeds
in the low 60s but we got into Evanston about 1730. The others saw ground
speeds in the 40s and had stop one additional time for fuel and arrived at
Evanston at 2130. This was not a fun day.
After spending 46 hours in that little airplane and 9 days camping out of
it, it has been only one day and I am already wanting to fly.
More later.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Aaron"
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Lowell
>
> Are you planning to do a write up of your trip - route, learnings, etc?
> Would be great to see it.
>
> Allan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Darrel,
>
> We left for Oshkosh one day before your e-mail post. We camped in
> General Aviation Camping to be closer to town and the more reasonable
> eating. We were fortunate enough to be on the same row as the showers.
>
> Home now after putting 46 hours on the old KF. Got in about 3:00 pm
> local time. Had a great time, but rushed out as I have to be in Orlando
> Thursday for a son's wedding and didn't know how the weather gods would
> look at us on our way home. Actually took only three days, though. We
> went in as a flight of eight - all from the West Coast..
>
> Sorry I missed you and some of the others.
>
> Lowell
>
>
---------------------------------
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flier" <FLIER(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | re: rollerblade tailwheels |
There's apparently a lot of variation in rollerblade
wheels as I've seen reports from two guys that have
torn them off light experimentals. Use care in
selection. Those that have shredded the rubber have
gone to the 4" homebuilder's special as they ended up
either in ground loops or near to it. The
wheel/bearing left behind evidently doesn't do much
for steering!
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: Jeffry Larson <jeffryl(at)us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: Tailwheels
>
>
>I can't speak to the other tailwheels, but since my
Kitfox Lite has the
>rollerblade for a tailwheel, all I can say is that
it works great. Have
>over 100 landings on mine and given the fact that I
fly off a 4000 foot
>runway and most of the time have to taxi to the
other end to take off, have
>put quite a bit of runway under it.
>
>I'm not yet concerned about it's life expectancy,
however I have replaced
>the front tires already. And since the rollerblade
wheels can be purchased
>at Walmart for $12 for a package of 4, not too
concerned about that either.
>Other Lite owners have commented that the
rollerblade is not great in a
>soft field, but you can bang the heck out of on a
concrete runway and it
>just keeps on ticking.
>
>Jeffry Larson
>MCSE - MCP+Internet
>Advisory Software Engineer
>Shark Open Systems Lab
>San Jose, CA 95193
>jeffryl(at)us.ibm.com
>ext 66097
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
I also read the link twice and had the same feeling. In spanish that is called
a "cantiflada" which means someone who speaks a lot and saids nothing.
Jos
Fox5flyer wrote:
Thanks for the Link Richard. I read the article twice and still am not sure
what it is that they plan to do.
Darrel
PS: just a side note. In internet "netiquette" all caps generally means
you're yelling. :-)
>
> MARK YOU NEED TO READ THE ARTICLE IN AERO-NEWS, ED HAS RESIGNED. READ "
NEW
> SPORT FLYING COMPANY TAKES OFF" DATED 7/27/2004
>
http://www.aero-news.net/news/sport.cfm?ContentBlockID=83ece717-d34f-4153-91cf-7819e0024bf3&Dynamic=1&Range=NOW&FromDate=07%2F27%2F2004&ToDate=07%2F27%2F2004&Category=%2Fnews%2Fsport.cfm.
> THIS IS THE LINK TO THE ARTICLE.
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh anybody? GPS |
| From: | "Allan Aaron" <aaaron(at)tvp.com.au> |
I cant really say - between the pressure altimeter and the altitude
readout of my microair transponder I didn't feel the need to check
altitude regularly on the IPAQ. I was very impressed, however, with the
navigation accuracy and reliability of the IPAQ and Anywheremap. It
never failed me - not once. Awesome.
Having said that, now I'm back in Australia, Control Vision's
(Anywheremap) Australian mapping database sucks (at least it did when I
last looked at it a couple of months ago). They haven't updated it
since 2001! If anyone wants a rarely used software license (and all
disks/manuals) for Anywheremap (plus planner software) plus the
connector module, etc, for a good price, let me know. I can't remember
what it cost me - Anywheremap lists now at $289 - don't know what the
other stuff lists at. I think the whole lot cost me about $400 or
something. I'm tired of waiting for the company to update the Aussie
map database.
Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jose M.
Toro
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody? GPS
-->
Allan:
Do you get accurate altitude readings when using the Magellan 315 as GPS
receiver for the IPAC?
Mark Schindler wrote:
If anyone wants to read Allan's story about his trip from Ca to Oshkosh
in Avid MK-IV check this link
http://www.avidflyeraircraft.com/aaron_travel.php - once you there if
you want to participate by sending my your own travel story I'll be glad
to include you.
Mark
Lowell Fitt wrote:
Allan, That is the plan, but I am in the middle of getting ready for the
wedding of my youngest son in Orlando Florida Saturday - we are leaving
for there tomorrow morning. Then on return, I have to somehow convert my
hangar to an open house venue which we will have here in Cameron Park -
I live in a residential airpark. The formal reception will be in St.
Augustine, Florida.
This summer has been one event after another - busy.
In short for now, we flew a northern route out. following is the
itinerary
Westbound:
Cameron Park CA - Lovelock, NV - Elko, NV where Hal joined us in his
Rans
S-6 - Afton Wyoming where we overnighted.
Afton, WY- Worland, WY - New Castle, WY - New Castle, WY - Wall, SD
where we overnighted
Wall, SD - Pierre, SD - Chamberlain, SD - Fairmont, MN - Reedsburg, WS -
OSH
The Return:
Osh - Fairmont, MN - Mitchell, SD where we overnighted.
Mitchell, SD - Custer, SD, Casper, Wy - Evanston, WY where we spent the
night.
Evanston - Elko, NV - Cameron Park, CA
The winds were in our face big time across Wyoming and there was a
little grumbling about the "Southern Route" home. While at Casper, some
of the guys wanted to have lunch - it was about 1 pm and others wanted
to press on.
I was with the group that continued without lunch and we saw ground
speeds in the low 60s but we got into Evanston about 1730. The others
saw ground speeds in the 40s and had stop one additional time for fuel
and arrived at Evanston at 2130. This was not a fun day.
After spending 46 hours in that little airplane and 9 days camping out
of it, it has been only one day and I am already wanting to fly.
More later.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Aaron"
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Lowell
>
> Are you planning to do a write up of your trip - route, learnings,
etc?
> Would be great to see it.
>
> Allan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell
> Fitt
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Darrel,
>
> We left for Oshkosh one day before your e-mail post. We camped in
> General Aviation Camping to be closer to town and the more reasonable
> eating. We were fortunate enough to be on the same row as the showers.
>
> Home now after putting 46 hours on the old KF. Got in about 3:00 pm
> local time. Had a great time, but rushed out as I have to be in
> Orlando Thursday for a son's wedding and didn't know how the weather
> gods would look at us on our way home. Actually took only three days,
> though. We went in as a flight of eight - all from the West Coast..
>
> Sorry I missed you and some of the others.
>
> Lowell
>
>
---------------------------------
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
---------------------------------
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh anybody? |
| From: | "Allan Aaron" <aaaron(at)tvp.com.au> |
Congratulations on your son's wedding! I remember several of the
locations you trekked through on your trip. Sounds tiring but lots of
fun!
Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
Allan, That is the plan, but I am in the middle of getting ready for
the wedding of my youngest son in Orlando Florida Saturday - we are
leaving for there tomorrow morning. Then on return, I have to somehow
convert my hangar to an open house venue which we will have here in
Cameron Park - I live in a residential airpark. The formal reception
will be in St. Augustine, Florida.
This summer has been one event after another - busy.
In short for now, we flew a northern route out. following is the
itinerary
Westbound:
Cameron Park CA - Lovelock, NV - Elko, NV where Hal joined us in his
Rans
S-6 - Afton Wyoming where we overnighted.
Afton, WY- Worland, WY - New Castle, WY - New Castle, WY - Wall, SD
where we overnighted
Wall, SD - Pierre, SD - Chamberlain, SD - Fairmont, MN - Reedsburg, WS -
OSH
The Return:
Osh - Fairmont, MN - Mitchell, SD where we overnighted.
Mitchell, SD - Custer, SD, Casper, Wy - Evanston, WY where we spent the
night.
Evanston - Elko, NV - Cameron Park, CA
The winds were in our face big time across Wyoming and there was a
little grumbling about the "Southern Route" home. While at Casper, some
of the guys wanted to have lunch - it was about 1 pm and others wanted
to press on.
I was with the group that continued without lunch and we saw ground
speeds in the low 60s but we got into Evanston about 1730. The others
saw ground speeds in the 40s and had stop one additional time for fuel
and arrived at Evanston at 2130. This was not a fun day.
After spending 46 hours in that little airplane and 9 days camping out
of it, it has been only one day and I am already wanting to fly.
More later.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Aaron" <aaaron(at)tvp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Lowell
>
> Are you planning to do a write up of your trip - route, learnings,
etc?
> Would be great to see it.
>
> Allan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell
> Fitt
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oshkosh anybody?
>
>
> Darrel,
>
> We left for Oshkosh one day before your e-mail post. We camped in
> General Aviation Camping to be closer to town and the more reasonable
> eating. We were fortunate enough to be on the same row as the
showers.
>
> Home now after putting 46 hours on the old KF. Got in about 3:00 pm
> local time. Had a great time, but rushed out as I have to be in
> Orlando Thursday for a son's wedding and didn't know how the weather
> gods would look at us on our way home. Actually took only three days,
> though. We went in as a flight of eight - all from the West Coast..
>
> Sorry I missed you and some of the others.
>
> Lowell
>
>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal |
Thanks for the great tutorial Rick. It went like clockwork. I'll do up a
report when I have a few extra minutes.
Darrel
> You will need a puller. The NSI pulley is aluminum so be careful. There
are
> threaded holes in the pulley, cant remember most likely standard not
metric
> since it is NSI not Subaru. Those can be used with a simple puller. Be
sure
> you get the keyway lined up on install and use flange sealant per manual
on
> the bolt. Lube the seal inside not outside, use a large socket to set it
> even. Take your time. Get a step stool, mirror if need be and light. If
you
> need any further I would be glad to help.
>
> Rick N656T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
>
>
> Thanks Rick. When I said "rear seal" I meant at the firewall end, which
is
> actually the front seal, but only if it's sitting in a car, but it's not a
> car, it's in an airplane, so I'm calling it the rear seal. We confused
yet?
> Anyway, you say I can replace it without removing the engine? That would
> sure be nice. Have you done it? Seems pretty tight back there. Don't I
> need to use a puller to get the pulley off? I've found the part number so
> I'll check NAPA for the part. I've also found an online Soob parts dealer
> that has it in stock. Shipping is more than the cost of the seal. I may
> just order it anyway so it'll be here when I get back from the Mecca.
> Darrel
> >
> > The rear main seal is the large one on the flywheel end. The front seal
> is
> > the small one on the end towards the aircraft firewall, neither of which
> do
> > you need to remove the engine for. You will need to pull the flywheel if
> it
> > the rear seal, no big deal. You will also need the special puller to
> remove
> > the small redrive gear from the crank to remove the redrive. Then its a
> > simple matter of removing the seal and putting in the new. You may even
be
> > able to get a slightly larger seal from a seal manufacturer. Give them
the
> > part number for the seal on you "dune buggy" and tell them you need the
> seal
> > a thou or two larger O.D.
> >
> > Rick N656T
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
> > Graichen
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> >
> > Darrel:
> > The oil seal is available from your friendly Subaru dealer's parts
> > department. You can look up the part number in your Subaru manual. But
you
> > should also install the oil seal retainer that is (or was) available
from
> > Joshie and Noel Simmons of Blue Sky Aviation. That will solve your
problem
> > for good as has for me. Hope to see you at Oshkosh.
> >
> > Peter Graichen
> > http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal
> >
> >
> > I went flying this morning for St Helens MI to have breakfast and and
only
> > got about ten miles before I smelled smoke (not good) so I turned around
> and
> > went back home. After popping the cowling I found that my rear main oil
> > seal was suddenly leaking badly so I'm grounded for awhile until I can
> pull
> > the engine out and replace it. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so
it'll
> > have to wait.
> > My question is can anybody give me the part number for the seal? Funny
> how
> > it can suddenly start spewing oil like that. Maybe it popped out? Any
> > input?
> > Darrel
> > S5/NSI/CAP
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
I tried to turn my idle speed (1800) down to eliminate "FLOAT" on
landings and the engine shakes and shudders so bad at 1650 that I think it
will
jump off the mount !!! What can I do to smoothen it out????
My 582 always needs 3,000 RPM first up and then after a flight sometimes it
will run nice at 2,000 RPM. I guess it does float a bit at times but it's
not too bad. I certainly won't let it run shaking. That's looking for lots
of trouble in my book. I read somewhere that these motors idle really sweet
without the prop because they are two strokes. This means they hunt and the
fact the prop doesn't want to follow is the cause of the shaking. Yes
carefull tuning helped mine but the next time it's different. I imagine a
clutch would work wonders. Re running without a prop the Rotax manuals say
don't do it due to risk of explosion. I take this to be due to the very
light flywheel allowing the revs to climb instantly.
So by all means try tuning but I think we are all pretty well stuck with it
other than fitting a clutch. Not really a problem though in my book. I do
have the speedster wing perhaps that doesn't float as bad although it is
still a 32ft wing.
Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | NSI Oil Seal Replacement Update |
Ok it's done. The new crank seal is in place, engine has been run up to
temp, and no apparent leaks, so I think I'm good to go for a test flight.
Thanks much to Rick for his help because without it I'd have probably pulled
the engine which would have been a lot more work, unnecessarily. I was able
to dive into the job knowing exactly what to expect and everything went
exactly as expected. Also, thanks to Don Lorenzen for the retainer he made
for me. It fit perfectly. The NSI engine isn't vented because it uses
crankcase pressure pulses to push the unpressurized oil back up to the oil
tank. Because of this the internal pressure tries to push out the crank
seal, which in a few cases, such as mine, it has succeeded. Fortunately it
can't push out all the way without running into the pulley so it's not a
real big deal if you aren't far from home. The oil doesn't gush out, it
just dribbles a little, which is enough to make a small mess and some smoke.
The retainer prevents this from happening ever again and the seal should be
good to go until overhaul time. For anyone who wants one of these
retainers, Don is the person to contact. He may still have some. Had I
thought of it earlier I'd have taken a picture of it and put it on
Sportflight, but it never entered my mind. I don't know if he's still on
the list or not, but he lives in Missoula Montana. I have his address if
anyone wants it. Don, are you with us?
Darrel
S5/NSI 100hp/CAP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lmar <my93avid(at)yahoo.com> |
Rex,
Go ahead and adjust the idle to 1600ish. Yes it will shake at that, but simple
forward the throttle to what ever it needs to be smooth on the ground. When
you have airspeed, the idle will be higher due to the prop motion increasing
it. That is why you float - the airspeed increases the rpm and thus in the air
an idle setting is increased significantly. I am not sure how low my ground
idle is set, as unless the engine is hot, it will not idle unless I add a bit
of throttle to bring it to 2000ish. In the air, while flaring, I do have 2000+
rpm due to the airspeed. Once stopped, I have to forward the throttle again.
Try it and see how you like it.
Larry
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lmar <my93avid(at)yahoo.com> |
Rex,
Go ahead and adjust the idle to 1600ish. Yes it will shake at that, but simple
forward the throttle to what ever it needs to be smooth on the ground. When
you have airspeed, the idle will be higher due to the prop motion increasing
it. That is why you float - the airspeed increases the rpm and thus in the air
an idle setting is increased significantly. I am not sure how low my ground
idle is set, as unless the engine is hot, it will not idle unless I add a bit
of throttle to bring it to 2000ish. In the air, while flaring, I do have 2000+
rpm due to the airspeed. Once stopped, I have to forward the throttle again.
Try it and see how you like it.
Larry
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kirkhull(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
The 1 degree of the wing should not chance your CG calc. I dont have my #s
as I was just doing a test weight with no fabric on the fusc to see where to
but the battery to ballance the heavier engine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Firm" <pianome2(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
envelope
> change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
> very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | I just got back from Oshkosh and when I asked for Ed |
they said he was
I also read the news release about Ed Downs starting
AmericanSportFlying.com. I, too, am having trouble visualizing how and what
they will be doing. It sounds like they will be referring people interested
in the Sport Pilot aspect of flying to other companies, sort of like a
physician referral service.
Making money from a website is pretty tough. I know that from experience. I
wish Ed good luck in his new job. He is a smart guy, and would not be making
this move it he did not believe that he could make a living. I wish Skystar
good luck too. They just keep getting leaner and leaner. The past 5 years
have not been good for them.
Don Pearsall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Pulling or pushing? |
> From: Lmar [my93avid(at)yahoo.com]
> In the air, while flaring, I do have 2000+ rpm due to the airspeed. Once stopped,
I
> have to forward the throttle again.
What I am not sure of, guys, is this:
When you flare at say, 50 MPH, and your throttle is on idle e.g. 2,000 RPM static
but 2,500 at 50 MPH, does your prop pull or push? Also: Is the air passing
over your wings' root accelerated?
The only way to find out is, I guess, to land with a dead stick. But I haven't
tried that yet (except with my instuctor, in his plane) and can't compare. I intend
to do it, but in winter, when I have miles-long lakes I can land on.
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Algate" <algate(at)attglobal.net> |
You have to be very careful idling too low. I have my 5822 set so that I can
pull it back to 1800 on the ground (but never do). On ground idle I run at
between 2000 and 2,500 and warm the engine at 3000 as this is really smooth.
When I am landing on a short field I pull the throttle right back but due to
air flow it still only idles back to 1900.
Once when practicing "dead sticks" and the engine was shut down the prop
still tended to windmill and this caused the engine to shudder quite a bit.
After landing I was just giving things a cursory glance and noticed that one
of the carburetors was almost completely out of the rubber socket.
I have since made a spring retaining device but excess vibration at low revs
can do a lot f damage to the engine and airframe.
I regularly land on short strips and my plane doesn't float - I use flaps
and I land slow with power on if the strip is short.
I think if a few hundred rpm are causing you to float maybe your approach
speed is a little high.
Gay Algate
Lite2/582
I tried to turn my idle speed (1800) down to eliminate "FLOAT" on
landings and the engine shakes and shudders so bad at 1650 that I think it
will
jump off the mount !!! What can I do to smoothen it out????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W/B question |
Howard,
The calc doesn't change, as Kirk suggested, however the CG RANGE most
certainly does change. With 1 degree of wing sweep, the range is as follows:
Forward Limit: 9.96
Aft Limit: 14.75
Just for reference, the limits WITHOUT wing sweep are: forward 11.37, aft
16.0
These numbers apply to Models 5 & 6 and I'm think will also apply to the 7.
Send me a private email if you would like a copy of my weight and balance
spreadsheet. It does all the calcs for you, from initial W&B to most adverse
conditions to individual flight conditions. It even has a W&B envelope and
does fuel range calcs.
Best Regards,
Cliff
>
> The 1 degree of the wing should not chance your CG calc. I dont have my
#s
> as I was just doing a test weight with no fabric on the fusc to see where
to
> but the battery to ballance the heavier engine
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Howard Firm" <pianome2(at)mchsi.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
>
> >
> > I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> > wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
> envelope
> > change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we
are
> > very similar.
> >
> > Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> > installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
> see
> > I'm going to need air coming in...
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
It is most definitely pushing (i.e., adding drag, slowing the plane). When
you land dead stick, you will find that your plane will glide MUCH further
without the prop turning. These comments are based upon a model 5 with Rotax
912 and a standard blade Warp drive prop.
Cliff
>
> What I am not sure of, guys, is this:
> When you flare at say, 50 MPH, and your throttle is on idle e.g. 2,000 RPM
static but 2,500 at 50 MPH, does your prop pull or push? Also: Is the air
passing over your wings' root accelerated?
> The only way to find out is, I guess, to land with a dead stick. But I
haven't tried that yet (except with my instuctor, in his plane) and can't
compare. I intend to do it, but in winter, when I have miles-long lakes I
can land on.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Algate" <algate(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Pulling or pushing? |
I practiced dead sticks a lot in winter and agree with Cliff about the
reduction on glide with the prop stopped. I can assure that you will get
quite a surprise if you base an emergency engine out final on your
experience with a glide at idle. My first couple of attempts left me landing
about 100 ft short.
Trouble is though that most pilots tend to overshoot and land long in
emergency situations - I guess this has to do with the "I want to get down
quick" syndrome that also occurs when the noise stops up front.
I have an in-flight adjustable IVO Prop and even tried coarsening the pitch
to induce the prop to keep turning on a dead stick approach and this seemed
to help but I don't think in a real emergency situation I would be
concerned with fine tuning my glide ratio.
Regards
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
It is most definitely pushing (i.e., adding drag, slowing the plane). When
you land dead stick, you will find that your plane will glide MUCH further
without the prop turning. These comments are based upon a model 5 with Rotax
912 and a standard blade Warp drive prop.
Cliff
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net> |
Howard,
I think I missed this thread... There are W&B spreadsheets at
http://www.desertfoxsquadron.org/Weight%20&%20Balance.htm
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kirkhull(at)sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: W/B question
The 1 degree of the wing should not chance your CG calc. I dont have my #s
as I was just doing a test weight with no fabric on the fusc to see where to
but the battery to ballance the heavier engine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Firm" <pianome2(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: W/B question
>
> I'm doing my W/B next weekend and needed to know what the 1 degree swept
> wings does to the calculations. Does the Datum change? Does the C-G
envelope
> change? Maybe Kurt, you could post your numbers for a reference as we are
> very similar.
>
> Also, users with LP bubble doors, do you know of any vents that can be
> installed on the slightly curved surface? My cabin is very sealed and I
see
> I'm going to need air coming in...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harold Flynn <hflynn46531(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal Replacement Update |
Fox5flyer wrote:
Ok it's done. The new crank seal is in place, engine has been run up to
temp, and no apparent leaks, so I think I'm good to go for a test flight.
Thanks much to Rick for his help because without it I'd have probably pulled
the engine which would have been a lot more work, unnecessarily. I was able
to dive into the job knowing exactly what to expect and everything went
exactly as expected. Also, thanks to Don Lorenzen for the retainer he made
for me. It fit perfectly. The NSI engine isn't vented because it uses
crankcase pressure pulses to push the unpressurized oil back up to the oil
tank. Because of this the internal pressure tries to push out the crank
seal, which in a few cases, such as mine, it has succeeded. Fortunately it
can't push out all the way without running into the pulley so it's not a
real big deal if you aren't far from home. The oil doesn't gush out, it
just dribbles a little, which is enough to make a small mess and some smoke.
The retainer prevents this from happening ever again and the seal should be
good to go until overhaul time. For anyone who wants one of these
retainers, Don is the person to contact. He may still have some. Had I
thought of it earlier I'd have taken a picture of it and put it on
Sportflight, but it never entered my mind. I don't know if he's still on
the list or not, but he lives in Missoula Montana. I have his address if
anyone wants it. Don, are you with us?
Darrel
S5/NSI 100hp/CAP
I would like to contact Don and get a retainer from him if I could
Harold Flynn
---------------------------------
Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal Replacement Update |
This is the last known address that I have.
Good luck.
Don Lorenzen
6826 Linda Vista Blvd
Missoula MT 59803-2772
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Flynn" <hflynn46531(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI Oil Seal Replacement Update
>
>
> Fox5flyer wrote:
>
> Ok it's done. The new crank seal is in place, engine has been run up to
> temp, and no apparent leaks, so I think I'm good to go for a test flight.
> Thanks much to Rick for his help because without it I'd have probably
pulled
> the engine which would have been a lot more work, unnecessarily. I was
able
> to dive into the job knowing exactly what to expect and everything went
> exactly as expected. Also, thanks to Don Lorenzen for the retainer he made
> for me. It fit perfectly. The NSI engine isn't vented because it uses
> crankcase pressure pulses to push the unpressurized oil back up to the oil
> tank. Because of this the internal pressure tries to push out the crank
> seal, which in a few cases, such as mine, it has succeeded. Fortunately it
> can't push out all the way without running into the pulley so it's not a
> real big deal if you aren't far from home. The oil doesn't gush out, it
> just dribbles a little, which is enough to make a small mess and some
smoke.
> The retainer prevents this from happening ever again and the seal should
be
> good to go until overhaul time. For anyone who wants one of these
> retainers, Don is the person to contact. He may still have some. Had I
> thought of it earlier I'd have taken a picture of it and put it on
> Sportflight, but it never entered my mind. I don't know if he's still on
> the list or not, but he lives in Missoula Montana. I have his address if
> anyone wants it. Don, are you with us?
> Darrel
> S5/NSI 100hp/CAP
>
>
> I would like to contact Don and get a retainer from him if I could
>
> Harold Flynn
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Bulging header tank |
While replacing my fuel valve I had the seat assembly out of the airplane
and I noticed that the plastic header tank is bulging out in the back side.
This side is normally flat and where it butts up against the inverted V
support tubes it's bulging as much as 3/4". This is has me concerned and
I'd like to replace the tank with a new one. Anybody else have this
problem? Anybody have good one to unload? Better yet, I recall that
someone was producing aluminum replacements. Any available?
Thanks,
Darrel
S5 Outback
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal Replacement Update |
Oops. My sincere apologies to the list. I shouldn't have posted Don's
address publicly. I'd meant to send it privately, but forgot to change the
TO address.
Again, my apologies.
Darrel
>
> This is the last known address that I have.
> Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
Hi Michel,
It's still pulling! That's why the float!!
But you could also flare about 45 indicated, which is about 1.3 times stall.
bh
> What I am not sure of, guys, is this:
> When you flare at say, 50 MPH, and your throttle is on idle e.g. 2,000 RPM
static but 2,500 at 50 MPH, does your prop pull or push? Also: Is the air
passing over your wings' root accelerated?
> The only way to find out is, I guess, to land with a dead stick. But I haven't
tried that yet (except with my instuctor, in his plane) and can't compare. I
intend to do it, but in winter, when I have miles-long lakes I can land on.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks John,
Next time I am out there, I'll check. I did use the
stick to unload and reload the tailwheel and it
eventually stopped. Slower 3 point landings, like I
should have been doing, didn't cause a shimmy.
Kurt S.
--- kerrjohna(at)comcast.net wrote:
> kerrjohna(at)comcast.net
>
> check also the verticality of the tailwheel pivot.
> the only time my maul shimmies is if stick full back
> at higher taxi speed forces the tail town and alters
> the pivot angle. releasing the stick slightly stops
> the shimmy.
> John
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
Darrel,
Has it been getting hot back there by the tank this
summer?
I took out my old plastic tank and replaced it with a
larger aluminum tank. You could have my old plastic
tank, but I would much rather you replace it with a
larger aluminum tank.
Now my low fuel light comes on at about 2.5 gal. This
gives me a lot more options over poor terrain and
little chance for flameout in descent like Tom A. had.
He convinced me to change and he has a tank source if
you need one. I had some interference issues of my
own design, so I had to design my tank around them
myself.
Just let me know if you want the old plastic one.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Fox5flyer wrote:
>
>
> While replacing my fuel valve I had the seat
> assembly out of the airplane
> and I noticed that the plastic header tank is
> bulging out in the back side.
> This side is normally flat and where it butts up
> against the inverted V
> support tubes it's bulging as much as 3/4". This is
> has me concerned and
> I'd like to replace the tank with a new one.
> Anybody else have this
> problem? Anybody have good one to unload? Better
> yet, I recall that
> someone was producing aluminum replacements. Any
> available?
> Thanks,
> Darrel
> S5 Outback
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul <pwilson(at)climber.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
Hi Kurt,
I guess I have not been paying close attention. Who makes the Al tank and what
is the cost.
Thanks, Paul
===============
>
>Darrel,
>
>Has it been getting hot back there by the tank this
>summer?
>
>I took out my old plastic tank and replaced it with a
>larger aluminum tank. You could have my old plastic
>tank, but I would much rather you replace it with a
>larger aluminum tank.
>
>Now my low fuel light comes on at about 2.5 gal. This
>gives me a lot more options over poor terrain and
>little chance for flameout in descent like Tom A. had.
> He convinced me to change and he has a tank source if
>you need one. I had some interference issues of my
>own design, so I had to design my tank around them
>myself.
>
>Just let me know if you want the old plastic one.
>
>Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
>
>--- Fox5flyer wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> While replacing my fuel valve I had the seat
>> assembly out of the airplane
>> and I noticed that the plastic header tank is
>> bulging out in the back side.
>> This side is normally flat and where it butts up
>> against the inverted V
>> support tubes it's bulging as much as 3/4". This is
>> has me concerned and
>> I'd like to replace the tank with a new one.
>> Anybody else have this
>> problem? Anybody have good one to unload? Better
>> yet, I recall that
>> someone was producing aluminum replacements. Any
>> available?
>> Thanks,
>> Darrel
> > S5 Outback
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel(at)online.no>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Pulling or pushing?
>
> Clifford Begnaud wrote:
> > It is most definitely pushing
>
> Thanks Cliff, Gary and Bruce.
> If my engine stops, I think it is important for me to know how fast I'll
go
> down. My test, with the engine idle says, at 55 MPH, 350 fpm, in a
straight
> line, and nearly 500 fpm in a one-minute turn. Is it then reasonable for a
> stopped engine to count 500 fpm in a straight line and maybe 700 in a
slack turn?
>
If the engine stops completely, it has been my experience that your glide
potential will increase, decreasing your rate of decent. When the engine is
at idle, the prop is acting like a big disk in front of the plane increasing
drag. I have the luxury of being close to El Mirage Dry Lake bed. I go
up...maybe 500' AGL and shut the engine off frequently...just to practice
dead stick landings. I always have more time to screw around with the plane
when the engine is off completely than when I do it at idle. My 2 cents.
Steve
Avid Mark IV
Jabiru, N919SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NSI firewall crank oil seal |
kurt schrader wrote:
>
> Thanks John and Darrel,
>
> The pilot/mechanic who told me about the tailwheel
> incident could easily have mistaken a Rans, Avid, etc
> for a Fox. I just wondered if it was one of "us".
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
> --- "John E. King " wrote:
We saw this on our way to the ultra light area on Tue. 7/27. As far as I
could tell, it was a Kit Fox. It was in the emergency repair area and I
could see that the rudder was damaged on the bottom (the fabric was all
bunched up). The plane was silver with horizontal red strips on the rudder.
>
>>Darrel & Kirk,
>>
>>I got to Oshkosh 7:30 PM Wednesday and left at
>>9:00 AM on Sunday.
>>I heard or saw nothing about a damaged Kitfox.
>
>
>>--
>>John King
>>Warrenton, VA
>>
>>Fox5flyer wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Nope, didn't hear anything about it Kurt.
>
>
>>>Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | In the summer I also use an automotive sun shade |
In the summer I also use an automotive sun shade
I just use auto stick on tinting above my head in my MKIV and I find it's
great. Doesn't seem to reduce light in the cockpit in poor weather either.
Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
I had an aluminum one made. The welding labor was $120 bob u.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
>
> While replacing my fuel valve I had the seat assembly out of the airplane
> and I noticed that the plastic header tank is bulging out in the back
side.
> This side is normally flat and where it butts up against the inverted V
> support tubes it's bulging as much as 3/4". This is has me concerned and
> I'd like to replace the tank with a new one. Anybody else have this
> problem? Anybody have good one to unload? Better yet, I recall that
> someone was producing aluminum replacements. Any available?
> Thanks,
> Darrel
> S5 Outback
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Liles <wliles(at)bayou.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
A long wing Fox or Avid is going to float a long way at 50mph,
especially if the engine is still generating thrust. I have the prop
clutch in my C gearbox and wouldn't be without it. The engine at low
idle doesn't sound or feel like a washing machine full of bowling balls
(idle at 1800 rpm or even slower is smooth and very pleasant).
Therefore I can land with absolutely no thrust from the prop, in fact it
is producing only drag which helps the short field landings. Another
plus of the clutch is I can routinely make what an engine out landing
with the engine still running! I know exactly how Tootie Mae is going
to behave if the engine does ever fail. The down side is the prop
freewheels, which increases drag. Nothing is ever an unalloyed success.
Jerry Liles
Avid MK IV Heavy Hauler
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
>
>
>>From: Lmar [my93avid(at)yahoo.com]
>>In the air, while flaring, I do have 2000+ rpm due to the airspeed. Once stopped,
I
>>have to forward the throttle again.
>>
>>
>
>What I am not sure of, guys, is this:
>When you flare at say, 50 MPH, and your throttle is on idle e.g. 2,000 RPM static
but 2,500 at 50 MPH, does your prop pull or push? Also: Is the air passing
over your wings' root accelerated?
>The only way to find out is, I guess, to land with a dead stick. But I haven't
tried that yet (except with my instuctor, in his plane) and can't compare. I
intend to do it, but in winter, when I have miles-long lakes I can land on.
>
>Cheers,
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Sportpilot Insurance |
I am planning on flying my Kitfox under the Sportpilot ruling. However, I have
not been able to get anyone to give me an insurance quote. Anyone else looked
into this and if so did you get any company to give you a quote?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Liles <wliles(at)bayou.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
I think the prop is producing thrust during landing when the engine is
turning at 2000 to 2500 rpm (about 700 to 800+ prop rpm with a 3:1
gearbox) unless the prop is freewheeling. A freewheeling prop, that is
one that is being turned by its passage through the air not by the power
of the engine, will absorb energy and produce drag, more so than a
stopped prop. However, if it is being turned by the engine, it is not
absorbing energy from the slipstream at the slow landing speeds we use,
and is actually generating a bit of thrust. I certainly get a nice
breeze at 2400 engine rpm where the clutch engages. These slow prop
speeds will, however, add some drag at higher gliding speeds.
Jerry Liles
Clifford Begnaud wrote:
>
>It is most definitely pushing (i.e., adding drag, slowing the plane). When
>you land dead stick, you will find that your plane will glide MUCH further
>without the prop turning. These comments are based upon a model 5 with Rotax
>912 and a standard blade Warp drive prop.
>Cliff
>
>
>
>>What I am not sure of, guys, is this:
>>When you flare at say, 50 MPH, and your throttle is on idle e.g. 2,000 RPM
>>
>>
>static but 2,500 at 50 MPH, does your prop pull or push? Also: Is the air
>passing over your wings' root accelerated?
>
>
>>The only way to find out is, I guess, to land with a dead stick. But I
>>
>>
>haven't tried that yet (except with my instuctor, in his plane) and can't
>compare. I intend to do it, but in winter, when I have miles-long lakes I
>can land on.
>
>
>>Cheers,
>>Michel
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sportpilot Insurance |
You don't need insurance to fly your Kitfox. (Don't put a bullseye on your
back for the lawyers!)
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Sportpilot Insurance
>
> I am planning on flying my Kitfox under the Sportpilot ruling. However, I
have not been able to get anyone to give me an insurance quote. Anyone else
looked into this and if so did you get any company to give you a quote?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal Replacement Update |
Thanks for all the useful info Darrel. It explains a
lot for me.
First, I just found out that the oil seal
retainer/cover pics are already on SportFlight. They
are under "improvements".
I have been worrying about that seal on my own plane
since before the FAA signoff. But I didn't know that
other NSI engines were different and used the
crankcase pressure to move the oil to the remote tank.
Mine seems to be a combined system - a breather off
the engine heads, the old auto oil pan, but with the
oil pan to tank line still installed. This was
supposed to be a breather drain line, but it didn't
work that way. It is where my oil was being blown out
the pan and out the breather by crankcase pressure. I
have changed it to a straight breather system and
capped off the oil pan line. Ground checks OK. I'll
soon know if that works in flight.
With my crankcase pressure relieved, I hope not to
need the seal retainer now. We'll see how that works
too.
It is interesting how the seal will blow out, but not
the friction fit dipstick that sees the same crankcase
pressure (at least on my engine).
Kurt S. N-5/NSI turbo
--- Fox5flyer wrote:
> Ok it's done. The new crank seal is in place,
> engine has been run up to
> temp, and no apparent leaks, so I think I'm good to
> go for a test flight.
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
Hi Michel,
Yes!
bh
> Thanks Cliff, Gary and Bruce.
> If my engine stops, I think it is important for me to know how fast I'll go
> down. My test, with the engine idle says, at 55 MPH, 350 fpm, in a straight
> line, and nearly 500 fpm in a one-minute turn. Is it then reasonable for a
> stopped engine to count 500 fpm in a straight line and maybe 700 in a slack
turn?
>
>snip
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
Hi Paul,
There are pics of Tom Anderson's alum header tank on
SportFlight under "gotta-haves". Rick Chandler also
added his pics under "add-ons/modifications". I don't
remember who made the tanks for Tom and Rick, but they
paid about $300. It was Tom's design.
I strengthened my seatbelt attachments and ran the
left wing tank fuel line down to the bottom of the
header to use as a header site gauge, so I had to
design a slightly narrower tank for myself. I did a
lot of poster board bending until I got what I wanted,
then bent it up out of .050 T5051 alum from ACS. It
was about $200 that way with fittings welded in.
I forget how much it weighed, but it was a lot better
than I thought it would be. You have to account for
the extra fuel weight there though.
One thing I did which has proven useful. I painted
the tank exterior with red paint that desolves in
fuel. It quickly found 3 fuel seeps for me at several
welds. Otherwise the fuel evaporates off the tank and
the leaks are harder to find.
Tom or Rick should know who to call if you want the
standard Tom A. designed tank.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Paul wrote:
> Hi Kurt,
> I guess I have not been paying close attention. Who
> makes the Al tank and what is the cost.
> Thanks, Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
I retrack my "Yes".. Brain fart.
Stopped prop will have better glide ratio due to less drag.
Unless the idle rpm is 2000 or above! (I think)
bh
> Hi Michel,
>
> Yes!
>
> bh
>
> > Thanks Cliff, Gary and Bruce.
> > If my engine stops, I think it is important for me to know how fast I'll go
> > down. My test, with the engine idle says, at 55 MPH, 350 fpm, in a straight
> > line, and nearly 500 fpm in a one-minute turn. Is it then reasonable for a
> > stopped engine to count 500 fpm in a straight line and maybe 700 in a slack
> turn?
> >
> >snip
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sportpilot Insurance |
Steve sez:
>You don't need insurance to fly your Kitfox. (Don't put a bullseye on your
>back for the lawyers!)
It's only safe to fly without liability insurance if you don't have
anything that anyone else wants (or you never have accidents). If
you have few enough assets that you are "under the radar" of an
attorney, i.e., you aren't worth pursuing, that strategy can work.
But, if you are attractive to them, having insurance could mean the
difference between someone else paying them off and having a
judgement come out of your own pocket.
As Steve indicated, it's up to each of us to decide.
Mike G.
N728KF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Pulling or pushing? |
> From: Bruce Harrington [aerowood(at)mcsi.net]
> Stopped prop will have better glide ratio due to less drag.
> Unless the idle rpm is 2000 or above! (I think)
Thanks Jerry, Bruce and Steve.
This morning, I took my calculator and did a quick calculation (which may be wrong,
please check my figures). If I fly say, 55 MPH, it means about 52,800 inches
per minute. At, say 2,100 RPM, my prop (3:1 gear) will turn at 700 RPM. It
means that:
If my prop pitch is less than 75 inches, it will create drag.
If my prop pitch is more than 75 inches, it will create lift.
Does this make sense?
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: NSI Oil Seal Replacement Update |
Good info Kurt. The turbo and normally aspirated are both EA81 engines as I
understand, but I wasn't aware that your's was vented. You'll probably
never have a problem with the seal in that case. Last night I went out for
the shakedown cruise and all is well. Thanks for the help. It was only
about ten days down time, but it seemed like forever.
Darrel
> Thanks for all the useful info Darrel. It explains a
> lot for me.
>
> First, I just found out that the oil seal
> retainer/cover pics are already on SportFlight. They
> are under "improvements".
>
> I have been worrying about that seal on my own plane
> since before the FAA signoff. But I didn't know that
> other NSI engines were different and used the
> crankcase pressure to move the oil to the remote tank.
>
> Mine seems to be a combined system - a breather off
> the engine heads, the old auto oil pan, but with the
> oil pan to tank line still installed. This was
> supposed to be a breather drain line, but it didn't
> work that way. It is where my oil was being blown out
> the pan and out the breather by crankcase pressure. I
> have changed it to a straight breather system and
> capped off the oil pan line. Ground checks OK. I'll
> soon know if that works in flight.
>
> With my crankcase pressure relieved, I hope not to
> need the seal retainer now. We'll see how that works
> too.
>
> It is interesting how the seal will blow out, but not
> the friction fit dipstick that sees the same crankcase
> pressure (at least on my engine).
>
> Kurt S. N-5/NSI turbo
>
> --- Fox5flyer wrote:
>
> > Ok it's done. The new crank seal is in place,
> > engine has been run up to
> > temp, and no apparent leaks, so I think I'm good to
> > go for a test flight.
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flier" <FLIER(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
I've built several alum tanks in the past but the
problem comes down to the subject of the recent
insurance thread that's floating around -- liability.
When you boil it down, an alum tank that replicates
the stock tank is about $20 of material, an hour of
work on a lathe to make the fittings, and an hour of
TIG time. The ones I did sold for $125. But, my
council had a fit. It's really too bad that so much
of what we can do is limited by our wonderful
liability laws. I only wish more people took
responsibility for their actions and there were less
attorneys. We'd have a lot more certificated light
aircraft sitting around anyway.
Regards,
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul <pwilson(at)climber.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
Thanks for the input
Paul
===========
>
>Hi Paul,
>
>There are pics of Tom Anderson's alum header tank on
>SportFlight under "gotta-haves". Rick Chandler also
>added his pics under "add-ons/modifications". I don't
>remember who made the tanks for Tom and Rick, but they
>paid about $300. It was Tom's design.
>
>I strengthened my seatbelt attachments and ran the
>left wing tank fuel line down to the bottom of the
>header to use as a header site gauge, so I had to
>design a slightly narrower tank for myself. I did a
>lot of poster board bending until I got what I wanted,
>then bent it up out of .050 T5051 alum from ACS. It
>was about $200 that way with fittings welded in.
>
>I forget how much it weighed, but it was a lot better
>than I thought it would be. You have to account for
>the extra fuel weight there though.
>
>One thing I did which has proven useful. I painted
>the tank exterior with red paint that desolves in
>fuel. It quickly found 3 fuel seeps for me at several
>welds. Otherwise the fuel evaporates off the tank and
>the leaks are harder to find.
>
>Tom or Rick should know who to call if you want the
>standard Tom A. designed tank.
>
>Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
>--- Paul wrote:
>
>> Hi Kurt,
>> I guess I have not been paying close attention. Who
>> makes the Al tank and what is the cost.
> > Thanks, Paul
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul <pwilson(at)climber.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
Thanks for the input
Paul
>
>I've built several alum tanks in the past but the
>problem comes down to the subject of the recent
>insurance thread that's floating around -- liability.
>
>When you boil it down, an alum tank that replicates
>the stock tank is about $20 of material, an hour of
>work on a lathe to make the fittings, and an hour of
>TIG time. The ones I did sold for $125. But, my
>council had a fit. It's really too bad that so much
>of what we can do is limited by our wonderful
>liability laws. I only wish more people took
>responsibility for their actions and there were less
>attorneys. We'd have a lot more certificated light
>aircraft sitting around anyway.
>
>Regards,
>
>Ted
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky(at)decisionlabs.com> |
10:58:12 AM
Thanks John. Rotec Researce in BC is selling overhaulded slipper clutches
for the 912 and 912S for only $ 500 CDN. That does not include
installation, but it was a good deal so I bought it and my engine is now
being updated. I spoke to Lockwood, and they recommended the updated
starter too. That was $ 240 USD with the old one on exchange. They say
the new starter turns the engine a lot faster, and ensures that it starts
clean with less stress on the airframe.
Good meeting you at Oshkosh. Would like to know more about the prop you are
running on your plane.
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
"John E. King "
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-kitfox-list-server@ma Subject: Kitfox-List:
Re:
tronics.com
08/02/2004 07:58 PM
Please respond to
kitfox-list
Gary and Robert,
Rotax is giving a special deal for those who own a 912S that does not
have a slipper clutch. Lockwood installed my slipper clutch and
exchanged my starter for the heavy duty starter for only $800. I
shipped them the gear box and the original starter and they returned the
gear box with the new clutch installed and the new starter within a
week. Call Lockwood and see if the offer still exists.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>From: "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris(at)intuit.com>
>To: "'kitfox-list(at)matronics.com'"
> cost?
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the
> cos t?
>Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 09:53:10 -0700
>
>Nice website Gary,
>
>Do you have puddle jumper floats on your plane?
>
>Robert
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kitfoxjunky
>To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S - Is the slipper clutch worth the cost?
>
>
>
>I have my Rotax 912S in for inspection. The shop doing the work has
>recommended that I install the slipper clutch. They say that this really
>smooths out the engine, especially at lower RPM, and will help reduce
>problems I have had with the exhaust cracking due to vibration. My Fox is
>up high, on anphib floats, so the chance of a prop strike is minimal,
which
>is why I was not too concerned about not having the clutch.
>
>The cost is about $ 1000, but the shop says they have a slightly used one
>they can install for $ 600. Is it worth it?
>
>
>Gary Walsh
>C-GOOT
>www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
Hi Michel,
Yes. However, is your rpm really that slow on final down to flare and
touchdown?
Mine was always higher than 2100 with idle set around 1700.
55 mph is 4,840 fpm, or 58,080 ipm. 2100 rpm -> 700 prop rpm -> 83 " pitch.
3000 rpm -> 1000 prop rpm -> 58" pitch.
Then there's the question of at what rpm and speed does the prop produce zero
drag????
bh
> Thanks Jerry, Bruce and Steve.
> This morning, I took my calculator and did a quick calculation (which may be
wrong, please check my figures). If I fly say, 55 MPH, it means about 52,800
inches per minute. At, say 2,100 RPM, my prop (3:1 gear) will turn at 700 RPM.
It means that:
> If my prop pitch is less than 75 inches, it will create drag.
> If my prop pitch is more than 75 inches, it will create lift.
>
> Does this make sense?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom <ditapo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips? |
My engine was running rough so I've discovered that one carb was not working properly.
So time to rebuild. Any tips? I do have a manual but it gives limited
detail. I've thought of sending them out but that is the wimpy and expensive way
out. Somebody told me that the real bush pilots I look up to can fix thier
own planes. haha
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips? |
| From: | "Steve Magdic" <steve.magdic(at)1psg.com> |
What, exactly, did you find wrong with your carb??
Rebuild kits are readily available and rather easy
to install. I've done some replacement of parts on
my 912 without incident.
Steve M.
-----Original Message-----
From: tom [mailto:ditapo(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: Kitfox-List: Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips?
My engine was running rough so I've discovered that one carb was not working properly.
So time to rebuild. Any tips? I do have a manual but it gives limited
detail. I've thought of sending them out but that is the wimpy and expensive way
out. Somebody told me that the real bush pilots I look up to can fix thier
own planes. haha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oakley" <joakley(at)ida.net> |
Hi Kids,
Last Saturday I left Idaho Falls and climbed to 11000 feet and headed north.
My wife and I flew along side the continental Divide for a hundred and fifty
miles or so overflying streams, snow and lakes with fish jumping. We made a
turn at Salmon headed west, and around the Big Horn Craig's then jumping
over the middle fork of the Salmon River and on to the main Salmon. At this
point my wife said several times that This was the river of no return and
now knows why it is called that, there is no place to land, there's no place
to land. I told her we were not in Kansas any more Todo.
We started descending and dropped to 8500 feet over cold meadows and over
flew and landed at Chamberlain Basin, 2 and 1/2 hours and 12 gal of fuel. We
spent the night with a couple we know from the west side of the state. They
had brought his and her planes, a stenson and a Cessna 170. Brought lots of
food and we ate it all. The local ranger looked at the kitfox and said she
could not believe the stuff we brought in it. humm, maybe that's why it came
in fast.
My wife had a hard time sleeping because no car sounds and the local wolf
were partying up on the ridge.
Sunday morning we headed out to the town of salmon to fuel and sight see
all the way home, breakfast here lunch there.
After 12 years on the list and over a thousand hours in fox I still smile
when I look across the bottom of my wing and think of the building
experience. I hope that all of you can feel this same high.
John Oakley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulling or pushing? |
Bruce Harrington wrote:
> Yes. However, is your rpm really that slow on final down to flare and
> touchdown?
I wouldn't know, Bruce: From flare to full stop, I concentrate at staying ahead
of the plane and never look at any instrument. But I am pretty sure you are
right, I am much over 2,100 RPM on landing, ... only that 2,100 was easy to
divide by three, for the sake of the example! :-)
> Then there's the question of at what rpm and speed does the prop produce zero
> drag????
Yes, and I don't know what my pitch is in inches but with 14 degrees at 75% of
my 64 inches diameter prop, I am pretty sure it is below 75 inches pitch and
therefore I conclude that yes, even with the engine idle revving, the prop must
give some extra power forward.
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kerrjohna(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Mountain flight |
John, good to hear about your weekend. We have made a similar loop, clockwise,
several times. Jerome, Smiley Creek, Bruce Meadows, Sulpher Creek, Johnson Creek,
Big Creek, Chamberlain Basin, Etc. We were never too concerned about places
to land, it was the take off run that looked questionable.(:p
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Hi Kids,
> Last Saturday I left Idaho Falls and climbed to 11000 feet and headed north.
> My wife and I flew along side the continental Divide for a hundred and fifty
> miles or so overflying streams, snow and lakes with fish jumping. We made a
> turn at Salmon headed west, and around the Big Horn Craig's then jumping
> over the middle fork of the Salmon River and on to the main Salmon. At this
> point my wife said several times that This was the river of no return and
> now knows why it is called that, there is no place to land, there's no place
> to land. I told her we were not in Kansas any more Todo.
> We started descending and dropped to 8500 feet over cold meadows and over
> flew and landed at Chamberlain Basin, 2 and 1/2 hours and 12 gal of fuel. We
> spent the night with a couple we know from the west side of the state. They
> had brought his and her planes, a stenson and a Cessna 170. Brought lots of
> food and we ate it all. The local ranger looked at the kitfox and said she
> could not believe the stuff we brought in it. humm, maybe that's why it came
> in fast.
> My wife had a hard time sleeping because no car sounds and the local wolf
> were partying up on the ridge.
> Sunday morning we headed out to the town of salmon to fuel and sight see
> all the way home, breakfast here lunch there.
>
> After 12 years on the list and over a thousand hours in fox I still smile
> when I look across the bottom of my wing and think of the building
> experience. I hope that all of you can feel this same high.
>
> John Oakley
>
>
>
>
>
>
John, good to hear about your weekend. We have made a similar loop, clockwise,
several times. Jerome, Smiley Creek, Bruce Meadows, Sulpher Creek, Johnson Creek,
Big Creek, Chamberlain Basin, Etc. We were never too concerned about places
to land, it was the take off run that looked questionable.(:p
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Oakley"
Hi Kids,
Last Saturday I left Idaho Falls and climbed to 11000 feet and headed north.
My wife and I flew along side the continental Divide for a hundred and fifty
miles or so overflying streams, snow and lakes with fish jumping. We made a
turn at Salmon headed west, and around the Big Horn Craig's then jumping
over the middle fork of the Salmon River and on to the main Salmon. At this
point my wife said several times that This was the river of no return and
now knows why it is called that, there is no place to land, there's no place
to land. I told her we were not in Kansas any more Todo.
We started descending and dropped to 8500 feet over cold meadows and
over
flew and landed at Chamberlain Basin, 2 and 1/2 hours and 12 gal of fuel. We
spent the night with a couple we know from the west side of the state. They
had brought his and her planes, a stenson and a Cessna 170. Brought lots of
food and we ate it all. The local ranger looked at the kitfox and said she
could not believe the stuff we brought in it. humm, maybe that's why it came
in fast.
My wife had a hard time sleeping because no car sounds and the local wolf
were partying up on the ridge.
Sunday morning we headed out to the town of salmon to fuel and sight see
all the way home, breakfast here lunch there.
After 12 years on the list and over a thousand hours in fox I still smile
when I look across the bottom of my wing and think of the building
experience. I hope that all of you can feel this same high.
John Oakley
w.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John E. King " <kingjohn(at)erols.com> |
Gary,
The prop on my Series 6 Kitfox is a three bladed in-flight adjustable
PropLink hydraulic hub with 68" Warp Drive blades. The prop pitch is
controlled by a vernier control on the panel. The web site for the
PropLink Hub is <http://www.proplink.org/>.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
kitfoxjunky wrote:
>
>
>Thanks John. Rotec Researce in BC is selling overhaulded slipper clutches
>for the 912 and 912S for only $ 500 CDN. That does not include
>installation, but it was a good deal so I bought it and my engine is now
>being updated. I spoke to Lockwood, and they recommended the updated
>starter too. That was $ 240 USD with the old one on exchange. They say
>the new starter turns the engine a lot faster, and ensures that it starts
>clean with less stress on the airframe.
>
>Good meeting you at Oshkosh. Would like to know more about the prop you are
>running on your plane.
>
>Gary Walsh
>C-GOOT
>www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
>
>
>
>Gary and Robert,
>
>Rotax is giving a special deal for those who own a 912S that does not
>have a slipper clutch. Lockwood installed my slipper clutch and
>exchanged my starter for the heavy duty starter for only $800. I
>shipped them the gear box and the original starter and they returned the
>gear box with the new clutch installed and the new starter within a
>week. Call Lockwood and see if the offer still exists.
>
>--
>John King
>Warrenton, VA
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 Charging System? |
| From: | "Steve Magdic" <steve.magdic(at)1psg.com> |
Help needed from the list electricians!
I have been experiencing dry battery syndrome lately.
My model 3 has a 912 that starts immediately upon
keyturn, however, after a week or two it fails to
start. I check the battery and it's bone dry. No cracks
or leaks detected. My ammeter shows about 15 volts
at full throttle. I have refilled the battery with the proper
acid solution and it works just fine... for a week or so.
Am I cooking the juice right out of this thing? Could my
rectifier/regulator be bad?
Thanks,
Electrically Challenged Steve M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Oakley" <joakley(at)ida.net> |
| Subject: | 912 Charging System? |
Steve, you are in need of a new regulator. 15 v is to high for a lead acid.
there are many after market ones around.
John Oakley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Magdic
Subject: Kitfox-List: 912 Charging System?
Help needed from the list electricians!
I have been experiencing dry battery syndrome lately.
My model 3 has a 912 that starts immediately upon
keyturn, however, after a week or two it fails to
start. I check the battery and it's bone dry. No cracks
or leaks detected. My ammeter shows about 15 volts
at full throttle. I have refilled the battery with the proper
acid solution and it works just fine... for a week or so.
Am I cooking the juice right out of this thing? Could my
rectifier/regulator be bad?
Thanks,
Electrically Challenged Steve M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 Charging System? |
| From: | "Steve Magdic" <steve.magdic(at)1psg.com> |
Thanks John. You've confirmed my suspicions.
A new regulator it is.
Steve M.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Oakley [mailto:joakley(at)ida.net]
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: 912 Charging System?
Steve, you are in need of a new regulator. 15 v is to high for a lead acid.
there are many after market ones around.
John Oakley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Magdic
Subject: Kitfox-List: 912 Charging System?
Help needed from the list electricians!
I have been experiencing dry battery syndrome lately.
My model 3 has a 912 that starts immediately upon
keyturn, however, after a week or two it fails to
start. I check the battery and it's bone dry. No cracks
or leaks detected. My ammeter shows about 15 volts
at full throttle. I have refilled the battery with the proper
acid solution and it works just fine... for a week or so.
Am I cooking the juice right out of this thing? Could my
rectifier/regulator be bad?
Thanks,
Electrically Challenged Steve M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | How many lawyers does it take to... |
Ted, I understand where you are coming from. This is a litigious society
that has evolved because (as you stated) we have way too many lawyers who
are always looking for a way to make a buck. Then again, who isn't.
However, if it were me and my lawyer told me that I'd be looking for a new
one. If we all listened to the lawyers the experimental movement would
never have gotten off the ground.
Darrel
> I've built several alum tanks in the past but the
> problem comes down to the subject of the recent
> insurance thread that's floating around -- liability.
>
> When you boil it down, an alum tank that replicates
> the stock tank is about $20 of material, an hour of
> work on a lathe to make the fittings, and an hour of
> TIG time. The ones I did sold for $125. But, my
> council had a fit. It's really too bad that so much
> of what we can do is limited by our wonderful
> liability laws. I only wish more people took
> responsibility for their actions and there were less
> attorneys. We'd have a lot more certificated light
> aircraft sitting around anyway.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | You don't need insurance to fly your Kitfox. (Don't put a |
bullseye on your
You don't need insurance to fly your Kitfox. (Don't put a bullseye on your
> back for the lawyers!)
In Australia our governing body for ultralights is Recreational Aviation
Australia. It was Australian Ultralight Federation until it changed name
very recently. Anyway as part of our licence we are covered for third party
liability for 1 million dollars. I figure this is very practical. Cost is
reasonable [part of licence cost]
Rex.
rexjan(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood(at)mcsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sportpilot Insurance |
The latest from Blakely at the FAA on denied medicals is that if you get a
special issuance medical certificate, then you can exercise the Sport Pilot
rating.
bh
"On the SP/LSA rule Blakey said, With one stroke of a pen weve made
recreational flying more fun, safer, and more affordable. At your request
getting wings just got to be considerably easier to do, and thats a wonderful
thing. Light sport aviation just got an important infusion of safety as well.
She went on to add, And I can tell you that the light sport aviation initiative
is important to the president as well, and when it came right down to it, it
helped to have a pilot in the White House.
Commenting on the final rule requirement that pilots who have been refused a
medical may not use their drivers license to medically qualify when operating
as a sport pilot, Blakey said, We decided that if we know an airman failed his
or her last medical, we couldnt just let that person use a drivers license
when operating as a sport pilot. That person will have to come back to the FAA
through an AME (aviation medical examiner) and meet the medical standards for a
special issuance [medical].
Blakey did add that any pilot now holding a special issuance medical certificate
does qualify under the SP/LSA rule."
> ...then buy the Sport Pilot INsurance. ...no medical required. (...but
> never, under any circumstances allow yourself to be denied a class III by
> the Feds.)
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Savener" <david_savener(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips? |
I'm having the same problem on my Bing 54s.
Before you take them apart, find specs on where to set each adjustable component
when you are reassembling(for instance, how many turns in or out to set the
idle screw. Someone helped me adjust my carbs and it hasn't run right since.
The settings are out now, so using Pre-rebuild settings won't help.
Where can I obtain this information?? anyone??
----- Original Message -----
From: tom<mailto:ditapo(at)yahoo.com>
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 10:43 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips?
My engine was running rough so I've discovered that one carb was not working
properly. So time to rebuild. Any tips? I do have a manual but it gives limited
detail. I've thought of sending them out but that is the wimpy and expensive
way out. Somebody told me that the real bush pilots I look up to can fix thier
own planes. haha
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Martenson" <kirk(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips? |
Dave:
I would call Bing at 800-309-2464 and ask them for help. I just ordered two
rebuild kits for my 912 UL, as well as the Bing tuning and parts manual.
Kirk Martenson
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Savener" <david_savener(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips?
>
> I'm having the same problem on my Bing 54s.
>
> Before you take them apart, find specs on where to set each adjustable
component when you are reassembling(for instance, how many turns in or out
to set the idle screw. Someone helped me adjust my carbs and it hasn't run
right since.
>
> The settings are out now, so using Pre-rebuild settings won't help.
>
> Where can I obtain this information?? anyone??
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: tom<mailto:ditapo(at)yahoo.com>
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 10:43 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Carb rebuilding rotax 912. Any tips?
>
>
>
>
>
> My engine was running rough so I've discovered that one carb was not
working properly. So time to rebuild. Any tips? I do have a manual but it
gives limited detail. I've thought of sending them out but that is the wimpy
and expensive way out. Somebody told me that the real bush pilots I look up
to can fix thier own planes. haha
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stu Bryant" <s.j.bryant(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/05/04 |
I am curious about something. Do any of you who have a clutch in your
re-drive have a separate tach for your prop? Any chance of ever exceeding
the design rpm of the prop while in a power-off dive? Sounds like it might
be more difficult to induce that problem in a Fox, but perhaps something
some of the more slippery yank and bank types might have to be concerned
about?
Stu Bryant
Atwater Ca.
Private Plot & wanna-be KF builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net> |
Who was it that found some type of paint that would show fuel leakage. I
really would like to get some. I want to put it on critical components of
the fuel and turbo system.
Thanks
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick" <turboflyer(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/05/04 |
Please correct me if I am off here, but if the prop goes supersonic I
believe that is exceeding its design limit or at least its efficiency limit.
I cant imagine a prop that would not be designed to operate right up to that
point. There are some props that have a range of operation to be avoided
depending on the engine prop combination. The prop builder knows which as
this can cause fatigue and failure due to harmonics in a given range of
speed. Some props work better at a given speed and pitch combination than
others. Just a quick jab at a very complex and lengthy subject. The next
prop I get will be perfect until I find the next perfect prop. And yes the
NSI redrive uses a sprage type clutch. No prop tack but if you know your
engine rpm and reduction drive ratio there is a formula to figure out prop
tip speed, which is what I think you want to know and not prop rpm. I have
it some where.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stu Bryant
Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/05/04
I am curious about something. Do any of you who have a clutch in your
re-drive have a separate tach for your prop? Any chance of ever exceeding
the design rpm of the prop while in a power-off dive? Sounds like it might
be more difficult to induce that problem in a Fox, but perhaps something
some of the more slippery yank and bank types might have to be concerned
about?
Stu Bryant
Atwater Ca.
Private Plot & wanna-be KF builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
That was me Rick,
My super dupper magic formula is "Krylon Rust Tough
Enamel, or RTA 9230 Cherry Red" from the hardware
store. Ha ha.
The stuff just happens to bubble up, or desolve away
with auto fuel. Don't know for sure about Avgas. It
formed a blister or bubble at two fuel seeps for me
where the welds weren't solid. Easy to find the leak
like that.
I am not sure about it handling much heat like on
engine parts though. But it should take any heat you
would let get at fuel related parts.
Be careful. It has Keytones in it so don't breath the
stuff.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Rick wrote:
> Who was it that found some type of paint that would
> show fuel leakage. I really would like to get
> some. I want to put it on critical components of
> the fuel and turbo system.
>
> Thanks
> Rick
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/05/04 |
I agree with Rick,
A lot depends upon what the designer built in for a
strength safety factor and for low pitch stops. As
you know, the lower the prop pitch is in a dive, the
faster it will spin. I don't know what the other
props have, but the NSI CAP prop has a low pitch stop
that should keep it from ever getting near the rpm
limit.
In fact, that prop turns a bit slow in normal use. I
notice a major increase in thrust going up from say
5200 engine rpm to 5500. It isn't just engine output.
Seems like better prop efficiency too.
If you are pushing overspeed on your prop, you will
also have a lot of drag to deal with. Enough you
shouldn't miss it.
Kurt S.
--- Rick wrote:
> Please correct me if I am off here, but if the prop
> goes supersonic I
> believe that is exceeding its design limit or at
> least its efficiency limit.
> I cant imagine a prop that would not be designed to
> operate right up to that point.
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I am curious about something. Do any of you who have
> a clutch in your
> re-drive have a separate tach for your prop? Any
> chance of ever exceeding
> the design rpm of the prop while in a power-off
> dive? Sounds like it might
> be more difficult to induce that problem in a Fox,
> but perhaps something
> some of the more slippery yank and bank types might
> have to be concerned
> about?
>
> Stu Bryant
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Liles <wliles(at)bayou.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/05/04 |
I use an optical prop tach to compare prop speed to engine speed. Once
the clutch is locked it is tight and I've seen no evidence of slippage
in routine use, and that includes a dive during testing to 135mph (max
design speed for a long wing MK IV Avid). In a poweroff dive the prop
speed could get high but the engine speed is low. If the prop is
properly balanced this should be no problem. I haven't seen a limit for
prop rpm, just engine rpm.
Jerry Liles
Stu Bryant wrote:
>
>
>I am curious about something. Do any of you who have a clutch in your
>re-drive have a separate tach for your prop? Any chance of ever exceeding
>the design rpm of the prop while in a power-off dive? Sounds like it might
>be more difficult to induce that problem in a Fox, but perhaps something
>some of the more slippery yank and bank types might have to be concerned
>about?
>
>Stu Bryant
>Atwater Ca.
>Private Plot & wanna-be KF builder
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marco Menezes <msm_9949(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | ammeter installation |
I'd like to install a VDO ammeter on my panel but am somewhat confused about wiring
(Rotax 582 UL). Instrument wiring diagram show one positive lead to + on
alternator, other to + on starter solenoid. Questions: 1) for the "alternator"
+ lead. do I bypass the rectifier go directly to engine? Presubambly this would
be to one of 2 "lighting coil" wires (yellow or yellow/black). Which one? 2)
for the starter solenoid + lead, do I bypass the rectifier and wire directly
to the solenoid?
Thanks in advance for assistance.
Marco Menezes
N99KX
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Graeme Toft ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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Subject: KF Mdl 1
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | ammeter installation |
Rick,
Sounds like a good option. I am interested too. Do
you have any additional info, or a web page or 2 for
for reference?
Kurt S.
--- Rick wrote:
> If you are gonig to put something in that hole I
> would suggest a volt/amp meter with a built in over
> voltage and discharge warning light. I think mine
> was a JPI or E.I. Instruction come with.
>
> Rick
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ammeter installation |
Marco,
That does sound confusing. My Actron amp meter book
gives 8 possible wiring diagrams, so it can get even
more confused. Anyway, I'll take a shot at the basic
problem.
Basically, the starter should have a dedicated direct
wire from the battery. It sucks the biggest load.
This doesn't have to go thru the amp gauge, so you
don't need to hook it up to the amp gauge at all. If
you do, it will probably just peg the gauge when you
start anyway.
But if you mean the starter solenoid seperately, which
you control with the start switch, that can just hook
up to the amp (+) side directly, with the start switch
wired in between the gauge and the solenoid.
The amp gauge should be between the battery and the
alternator power output (B+) after the
voltage/rectifier. Don't bypass it. All loads except
the starter should be on the same side of the amp
gauge as the alternator output, or B+.
Don't get this B+ confused with the alternator input
line, which is probably smaller wire too. I don't
know your specific installation though. Since it is
low amperage, both wires could be small. I am sorry,
but I don't know your wire color coding either.
So the (-) amp terminal should hook up to the battery
(+). The starter should hook up to the battery (+)
terminal too.
The amp (+) terminal should hook up to the voltage
rectifier (alternator) B+. Your starter solenoid and
all your other loads should hook up to the amp (+)
including the alternator power input wire.
That amp needle simply points to where the power is
coming from and shows how much. It points to the
battery (-) until the alternator is putting out enough
power to recharge the battery. Then it points to the
alternator side (+) to show current recharging the
battery. With this setup, you don't see how much load
you are putting on the system, once the alternator is
charging. It just shows how much is going into or out
of the battery. With the alternator not charging, it
will show the total of all loads you have turned on,
except the starter.
More confused? Try:
Battery Rectifier output B+
>(-)amp gauge(+)< Starter solinoid
Starter Alternator field
All radios/lights/etc
Hope this prints OK. Maybe that will help. Call me
if you want to discuss it. (502)458-9646
You'll have to ask someone who has your engine about
your wire color codes though.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Marco Menezes wrote:
> I'd like to install a VDO ammeter on my panel but am
> somewhat confused about wiring (Rotax 582 UL).
> Instrument wiring diagram show one positive lead to
> + on alternator, other to + on starter solenoid.
> Questions: 1) for the "alternator" + lead. do I
> bypass the rectifier go directly to engine?
> Presubambly this would be to one of 2 "lighting
> coil" wires (yellow or yellow/black). Which one? 2)
> for the starter solenoid + lead, do I bypass the
> rectifier and wire directly to the solenoid?
>
> Thanks in advance for assistance.
>
> Marco Menezes
> N99KX
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VAL comm display |
Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a
couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits.
Danny Williamson
Pride, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: VAL comm display |
Have you talked to Valcom? The owner is pretty easy to deal with. I had
the same problem on my first one and he fixed me right up with no charge
except shipping. The second is on it's 5th year with no problems.
Darrel
> Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a
> couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits.
>
> Danny Williamson
> Pride, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jareds <jareds(at)verizon.net> |
Even with some drain holes in the flaperons i still have a collection
of water after rain.
Has anyone covered the gaps of the flaperon hinges with anything?
N53dw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a
>couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits.
>
>Danny Williamson
>Pride, LA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VAL comm display contact? |
How do you contact val radio?
Mine is doing the same thing.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fox5flyer" <morid(at)northland.lib.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: VAL comm display contact? |
I'll have to look in my manuals, but if you have your's it there phone
number should be there. I don't know of a web site.
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: <Forfun3(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: VAL comm display contact?
July 23, 2004 - August 08, 2004
Kitfox-Archive.digest.vol-ax