Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ab
August 19, 1996 - December 15, 1996
My calculations show that I need to put some weight on the passenger
seat to get the C,G, within the envelope before flying.
I would like to compare some of my numbers (weights, moment arms and
loading configurations) with other builders.
Thanks
Emerson L. Klotz
(Done building and waiting for FAA inspection.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark 3 weight and balance |
Hello Emerson and Others,
We are nearly done with our Mark III. I'm just waiting for my dad to
get back home then we can finish it.
> I went with the Rotax 582 with "c" gear box,72" 3 blade Ivoprop,BRS
> under the fuselage, full compliment of gauges and an intercom for
> pilot and passenger. Empty weight came to 496 lb.
We have about the same things on ours except no chute and we have a
controllable pitch prop. Our empty weight is about 495 plus or minus
a few.
> My calculations show that I need to put some weight on the passenger
> seat to get the C,G, within the envelope before flying.
With weight in the nose we have the C.G. at 33%. If you put weight
in the nose you will have to add less weight because of the distance
from the C.G.
Brandon Kearbey
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III []-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
99% done . /| / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I have seen several motors painted and have talked to people about doing so
but am still looking for people that have done it recently. My 503 is still
in the box so I would like to paint the block while it is brand new. They
tell me they use automotive paint, enamel/ etc and it does not get hot
enought to hurt the paint. I first saw a plane at sun n fun, with the block
painted and the gear box polished, it looked great. I just want to paint my
block. I mostly want to know what kind of paint worked best and how did you
clean the surface before painting. Its new but I am sure oily.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kw012393(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Rotax ignition problems |
Help! I have a Rotax 377 which is increasingly difficult to start. Last
time I managed to get it started, about 40 pulls were required. We've
checked the plugs (fine, but put new ones in anyway), points, timing, plugs
are sparking, etc. All checks out OK. Fuel system A-OK.
Once the engine starts, and is later stopped, it will start up immediately
on the first pull as long as it's still "warm."
Any suggestions from you Rotax wizards will be greatly appreciated!
Please respond with your suggestions to the list, or to me personally at
kw012393(at)one.net noting that the third character in my email address is
a zero, not a letter.
Thanks for your help!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | andy <harley(at)gte.net> |
I have used automotive laq. and enam. with good results on other
alum. engines.
Used blue laq. on Harley jugs, quite hot, no problem.
ever touch a black hood on a hot day?
harley here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
In respones to rotax starting hard, It's sounds like you have a
choking problem, check the starting piston in the carb to make sure it's
adjusted right, also check your hand primer to make sure it's pumping fuel,
if your spark plugs are dry your not getting enough fuel into the cylinders.
In respones to painting engine, most automotive parts stores carry engine
enamel which is a high temp paint, but painting an air cooled engine, the
paint will act as an insulator and doesn't let it cool the way it should.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | andy <harley(at)gte.net> |
Has anyone out there built the FireFly??
Starting to paint the frame here, went with stits epoxy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Philip Correll <philip(at)dumpster.ctcexchange.com> |
The cable operated drum brakes are operated by a single handle from
between the seats, according to the data sheet from Kolb. Has anyone
out there looked at adapting them to individual heel- or toe-operated?
Is there any reason why this wouldn't work? There are two cables,
right? Please let me know.
Philip(at)ctcexchange.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kw012393(at)one.net |
| Subject: | RESOLUTION to Rotax ignition problem |
Thanks to everyone who responded to my query regarding difficulties in
starting the Rotax 377.
The problem was in the throttle and choke settings. The choke was not fully
opening. With some adjustment, and being careful to have throttle fully
closed and choke fully opened, the engine started fine.
We had checked plugs, points, timing, fuel system, etc., and all had checked
out A-OK. So the resolution of the matter was with the throttle and choke
settings.
Thank you for all the helpful suggestions.
This resource for information sharing via the Internet is "fantabulous."
--Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff <harley(at)gte.net> |
Jeff here,
We ordered ours with heel brakes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)gulf.net> |
Greetings,
I just picked this article off of the ultralight newsgroup. Do any of
you current IVO users know any more details of this bulletin?
Rusty
Fellow IVO users,
If you are using an IVO prop, be advised that there is a mandatory
service bulletin to be completed before any further flights.
Take this S/B seriously! I checked my prop (72" dia. mounted to a
Rotax 618 with "E"gearbox 3/1) and found that 2 of the 3 blades had
cracks extending from the insert bushings to the root of the blade.
This prop was properly installed using a calibrated torque wrench, and
has less than 30 hours on it!
Contact IVO for the inspection procedures and Stainless Steel tape to
perform the inspection. It is not merely a visual inspection. You
need to place some special tape in strategic locations to determine if
there is any movement between the blades.
IVO Prop Corp. tel.# (800)FOR PROP
Dan Nelson
Sherwood America Aviation
"Sherwood Ranger"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Little <blittle(at)communique.net> |
Hey Guys,
I am presently building a Mk III with a Rotax 618. It has a 3.47:1 "E Box.
The Plane is nearing completion and I would like any information on problems
that any of you may have encountered.
My "E" Mail address: blittle(at)communique.net
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)gulf.net> |
Hello again,
It looks like I might be able to afford (just barely) the 582 engine for
my Slingshot. Up until now, I've been considering only the 503. The
582 is of course liquid cooled, and it has a "rotary valve inlet"
(whatever that means). Do these two features make it any more of less
reliable than the 503? To me, the extra power of the 582 isn't really
needed, but if it offers other benefits, I'm all for it.
The negatives I see to the 582 vs. the 503 are:
Costs about $1900 more overall than the 503.
Requires 12v be available for the coolant gauge.
Coolant leaks can ruin your day.
Uses more fuel.
The positives include:
More power for very little weight increase.
Liquid cooling should be more stable and possibly less likely to seize.
I won't have the slowest Slingshot ever built :-)
What do you think?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)gulf.net
http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Russell Duffy wrote:
> The negatives I see to the 582 vs. the 503 are:
>
> Costs about $1900 more overall than the 503.
> Requires 12v be available for the coolant gauge.
> Coolant leaks can ruin your day.
> Uses more fuel.
>
> The positives include:
>
> More power for very little weight increase.
> Liquid cooling should be more stable and possibly less likely to seize.
> I won't have the slowest Slingshot ever built :-)
no answers here, but a comoment and question:
One thing that bugs me about liquid cooled UL engines is the gawdy
installation of radiators and associated tubes. Besides looking terrible
(to me, at least), i've wondered if the placement of these things might
create a substantial cooling drag. Has anybody ever seen a plane where
some cowling or better placement has been done well?
BTW, what is the HP and weight of the 582? (I'm taking the 503 to be
52 HP and 89 lbs w/ B box, 2 carbs, and exhaust.)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Harris" <ee19168(at)goodnet.com> |
> From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)gulf.net>
> Reply-to: rad(at)gulf.net
> To: kolb(at)hpmail2.ftw.mot.com
> Subject: 503 vs. 582
> Hello again,
>
> It looks like I might be able to afford (just barely) the 582 engine for
> my Slingshot. Up until now, I've been considering only the 503. The
> 582 is of course liquid cooled, and it has a "rotary valve inlet"
> (whatever that means). Do these two features make it any more of less
> reliable than the 503? To me, the extra power of the 582 isn't really
> needed, but if it offers other benefits, I'm all for it.
>
> The negatives I see to the 582 vs. the 503 are:
>
> Costs about $1900 more overall than the 503.
> Requires 12v be available for the coolant gauge.
> Coolant leaks can ruin your day.
> Uses more fuel.
>
> The positives include:
>
> More power for very little weight increase.
> Liquid cooling should be more stable and possibly less likely to seize.
> I won't have the slowest Slingshot ever built :-)
>
> What do you think?
More power is always better, everything else being (nearly) equal.
A liquid-cooled engine will give you more consistent power because it
won't have the tendency to heat up and sag like an aircooled. It will
also last longer, for the same reason. In larger 4-cycle aircooled
engines, shock-cooling is a problem during rapid descents. I don't
think it's as much of a problem with 2-strokes, though.
A rotary valve is a disk with a hole in it that rotates to provide
intake timing for the engine. I'm not sure what the 503 uses
(probably reeds if it's not a rotary valve). I guess you could say
it's a tad more reliable, because reed valves (if that's what the 503
uses) have been known to lose petals into the cylinder, trashing it.
But this is pretty rare, and most modern engines use fiber reed
petals now anyway, which won't destroy the cylinder like a metal reed
would.
I say go for the 582. More is better! :)
To address your concerns about the 582, here's my .02:
1. You get what you pay for.
2. Yep. :)
3. So can seizures.
4. Not if you throttle back, which you will be able to with the
bigger mill.
-----------|------------
_ | _
( . . )
( / )
---oOOo------------oOOo----
George B. Harris
AH-64 Rotorhead
AZ ARNG (Desert Hawks)
We Rent the Night
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don <poppld(at)tdbank.ca> |
| Subject: | Full Lotus Amphib. Gear |
I am currently flying a Kolb MarkIII on Full Lotus floats with home made
amphib. gear. Because of reliability problems with the home made gear I
am considering buying the amphib. gear that Full Lotus sell for their
float systems.
I would like to hear from anyone thar has the Full Loates amphib. gear
on their plane and in particular those that are using them on the Mark
III. Thanks.
...Don...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Full Lotus Amphib. Gear |
I am currently building a MKIII and am considering putting it on floats
and was wondering what your experience has been with your MKIII on
floats. How many hours on Floats do you have? What engine are you
using and what is your rate of climb with a passenger? Do you have a
parachute? Do you know what the empty weight of your plane was before
adding amphib gear, after? What if any corrosion preventative measures
did you take and do you operate off fresh or salt water. I also know
there is someone in Florida that actually modifies the airframe to make
a retractable landing gear and then mounts a single full lotus float
with pontoons on the wings. It seems like a good solution in that you
can remove the single float from between the wheels and the pontoons and
have a land plane in no time flat. I will try and find the address and
phone of the people who do this conversion and foreword it to you.
>----------
>From: Don[SMTP:poppld(at)tdbank.ca@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, August 26, 1996 12:42PM
>To: kolb(at)hpmail2.ftw.mot.com
>Subject: Full Lotus Amphib. Gear
>
>I am currently flying a Kolb MarkIII on Full Lotus floats with home
>made
>amphib. gear. Because of reliability problems with the home made gear I
>am considering buying the amphib. gear that Full Lotus sell for their
>float systems.
>I would like to hear from anyone thar has the Full Loates amphib. gear
>on their plane and in particular those that are using them on the Mark
>III. Thanks.
>
> ...Don...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVID B CURLISS MLBC CIV <curlisdb(at)ml.wpafb.af.mil> |
No answers here either regarding 503 vs. 582
However, I'm contemplating the same issue. I have thought of installing a 503
initially for cost reasons and upgrade in the future if $ allow. So my
question is:
Is anyone on this mailing list flying a kolb, or anything else, with a 503?
Can you share some operational experiences - good, bad, or indifferent?
Dave Curliss
curlisdb(at)ml.wpafb.af.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | flyin happenings |
Hi Kolb folks, Thought I'd post a little flying news:
A couple weekends ago I flew on up to Colusa, and then about 10 miles
further north and landed along side the Sacramento river. Colusa was
just a gas stop so that I'd have enf to make it home and not risk the
gas guy going to bed too early (old timer, farmer) to top me off for
the ride home. I found a place along the river with about 30' of firm
ground changing to soft sand. Landing was fine, although in taxiing I
had to play enf throttle to keep the tail up off the sand, but not too
much or the nose would go over with the mains unable to keep rolling
thru the soft sand. This happened once, but I had experienced it once
a year ago. (It is only most probable when your speed is down to 0
and you add throttle too quickly.) This time I didn't even get out of
the plane; just stuck my foot out and pushed myself back onto the tail.
While stopped I could see that my tail wheel was buried about 5", and
no surprise, drags a decent groove thru the sand. I know that with me
in the plane, the weight on the tail wheel is 30lbs, and that's a pretty
small footprint back there for even that little weight.
On departure I tested to see if i could get going from stand-still
in the sand. I did, although it was a little tricky, but gratifying.
(If I bogged down, i had a stretch of firm ground to use instead.)
Again, it's a matter of gradually and carefully adding throttle so as to
get the tail flying, at which point you add enf up elevator to keep from
nosing over as the mains push along the sand. It gets easier the faster
you go, and eventually, after a light touch of the mains against the tops
of some sand crests, you're away. I really doubt you could get away with
this without "tundra" tires, even in the lighter single place Kolbs.
(BTW, I walked my intended takeoff zone ahead of time just to get a
sense for it and how much it might be cluttered with unseen tire spikes.)
Anyway, glad to know that i can do that now, as I've envisioned a trip
along the coast and hope to find a spot where i can land on the beach
and get away without trouble ...technical or legal. Moral: Big tires
are a safety feature, as well as a nice ingredient for funner flying
destinations.
Before heading home I also did some low flying thru a field with rainbird
sprinkler irrigation, so that hosed off the bottom of my plane (sort of).
...flew right down the row several times, which is fun and and picturesque
as the spray made a nice rainbow ahead of me. Had a blast.
One more thing ...a nice guy out in cyberspace embellished one of my web
pics and sent it back to me; I've included it at
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/straf.html
if you're interested ...thanks Rob.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Firestar KXP
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Hank Fritze) |
| Subject: | Rotax 503 vs 582 |
In regard to the subject, my two cents.
I'm building a Firestar II and will equip it with an R503 DCDI. I put
350 hours on a B1-RD ultralight with a R503 DC. The engine ran for 307
hours before the fan end rod big end bearing failed.
The survey I conducted back in '89 showed the R503 to be the most
reliable of all two-cycle aero engines available back then but only in
the dual carb configuration. It was more reliable than the R532, the
progenitor of the R582.
All the anecdotal data gathered since then seems to bear out that the
R503 DCDI continues to be the most reliable of the Rotax aviation
two-stroke engines.
If somebody would take on the task of producing a ceramic or
carbon/carbon piston for the two-cycle world, it would double the
reliability overnight. Half of all failures are seziures. NASA is
looking for somebody to commercialize its carbon/carbon technology
patents.
Just two more points.
1. These engines are produced to a price. If you use exotic technology
in them to make them more reliable you would pay the price of a
certified engine.
2. If it weren't for these light weight engine, we wouldn't have light
weight airplanes. The empty weight of a Cub is something like 580
pounds. Where else can you fly two people with 350 pounds empty?
Hank Fritze
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <Joe.Kohler(at)top.monad.net> manderson(at)monad.net |
| Subject: | 503 DC,DI EGT temps, radio noise |
Following the normal breakin, I have been running the engine and taxiing my
Firestar II with a 503 DC, DI engine with 3 blade IVO, and EIS digital
instrument with EGT probes in fittings in new style exhaust manifold. I am at
about 700 feet above sea level, and the temperature has been running 75 F.
The Bing carbs with stock air filters are set up as per spec with the correct
needles in the correct positions, etc., except I tried a 155 main jet in
addition to the stock 158 main jet. My CHT and EGT readings seem low,
particularly at higher RPMS (typical average readings - CHTs are usually within
a few degrees of each other, while EGTs vary up to about 50 degrees max.):
158 main jet 155 main jet
RPM CHT EGT CHT EGT
2000 200 900 190 900
2500 260 950 280 990
3000 270 990 290 990
3500 290 1020 310 1020
4000 300 1020 310 1020
4500 300 1030 310 1000
5000 300 980 320 950
5500 305 860 340 820
6000 350 820 350 860
6500 360 840 350 890
The engine is slow to respond to increase in throttle from 5500 to 6500 under
static conditions (maybe 10 to 15 seconds to spool up - the leaner main jet
seemed to help a little but the max RPM with this jet was 6500 static whereas
the stock 158 jet would indicate 6800 on sometimes).
The spark plugs look great after about 5 hours - just slightly brownish on the
electrodes.
The normal range for the CHT is 350 to 470 and the EGT is 800 to 1200.
Am I running rich? Should I lower the position of the jet needle (it's in #2
slot down from top as per spec)? Should I worry about the CHT which barely
reaches the minimum temperature?
An engine technition from Lockwood Aviation said the stock settings were fine at
my altitude and I shouldn't have to change anything.
On the radio noise problem, I have an ICOM A-20 with an aircraft antenna mounted
on the nose cone. I get a continuous buzz which is loud even with the noise
reduction button in. I have the standard magenta plug caps. I have tried the
standard NKG B8ES and the BR8ES. The latter may work slightly better - are they
OK otherwise. What else should I try.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)gulf.net> |
Ben Ransom wrote:
> One thing that bugs me about liquid cooled UL engines is the gawdy
> installation of radiators and associated tubes. Besides looking terrible
> (to me, at least), i've wondered if the placement of these things might
> create a substantial cooling drag. Has anybody ever seen a plane where
> some cowling or better placement has been done well?
I agree about the ugly radiators and the drag they must create. I
wonder how many of the extra horses are consumed by drag at max cruise
speed.
> BTW, what is the HP and weight of the 582? (I'm taking the 503 to be
> 52 HP and 89 lbs w/ B box, 2 carbs, and exhaust.)
According to the LEAF catalog, the 503 is 91.7 lbs, and the 582 is 90.6
lbs. Both have the B box but I doubt the radiators are included in the
582 weight. They're about 4.5 lbs minus fluid.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)gulf.net
http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: 503 DC,DI EGT temps |
> The engine is slow to respond to increase in throttle from 5500 to 6500 under
> static conditions (maybe 10 to 15 seconds to spool up - the leaner main jet
> seemed to help a little but the max RPM with this jet was 6500 static whereas
> the stock 158 jet would indicate 6800 on sometimes).
>
> The spark plugs look great after about 5 hours - just slightly brownish on the>
electrodes.
Joe, I would suggest you are a little too rich. I would try a set of
leaner main jets. Your highest EGT temps -- still well below 1200 --
in the mid rpm area will go up along with the EGT temps at the high
rpm if you try leaner main jets. So, I wouldn't lean the mid-range
needle setting. I might also consider a slightly coarser prop pitch if
it wants to do more than 6500 static.
One more thing ...I chased my temps and jet settings back and forth in
the beginning only to find that I had mistakenly placed the plastic
block in the carb barrel below the circlip instead of above (on the
throttle side). This mistake didn't show up as consistently bad temps,
but did cause a definite lag and sometimes an engine out when advancing
the throttle from idle. As well, my fuel burn was horrible ...about
4+gpm in a SC 447.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | your airplane 2B |
Hi Rusty,
I read the review in UF! last night about your airplane to be. Man, that
does sound good! In the article, he (Dan Johnson) talked about the plane
wanting to curve right due to P-factor on take-off, to the extent that he
couldn't really even get to full power before liftoff. I've experienced
the same thing in my comparitively wimpy 447 powered FS KXP. It's no big
deal, but fun to have the same kind of problem as a P-51. I think he said
he limited his take-off power to 5900rpm, and he still thought it a rush.
Holy cow, imagine 2200+ fpm with the 912! (i'm sure you have)
Anyway, sounds awfully nice, and you ought to be in business pretty
soon. Hope so. I'll keep bothering you w/ the fun I'm having from time
to time. :)
So-as to get back to some of the building fun, I'm making a new
windscreen now. Not sure I told you about it, but basically it will be
more like the original (1986) Firestar instead of the open-sided KXP type.
The open-sides allow full cross-draft which I think contributes a Lot of
drag, and is very punishing to my sinuses in winter flying. I'm making
this project as complicated as possible, trying to get a good hinge
method to allow the lexan windscreen to open so I can get in and out.
The true '86 FS windscreen didn't need to be hinged cuz it didn't extend
back very far. I won't bother you with the details, but maybe someday
a picture when I'm finished.
Also finishing up my home-made brakes, which are turning out good, but
I've thought of a similar but even better way, and I'll forward that on
to you someday too. I talked to a Rans Coyote owner nearby who had the
problem I feared with the type (Azusa) of drum brakes supplied by most UL
companies, including Kolb I think. That problem being the questionable
quality brake parts coming apart inside, jamming the wheel stopped,
and groundlooping the plane. ...Glad I removed my brakes when I did,
as I think the out-of-round wheel worsened my chances of destroying the
inside of the brake drum and thereby causing worse trouble. I will say
one thing nice about Azusa; they replaced the out-of-round wheel I was
plagued with after i owned it for 2 years, and didn't even ask me to
find the receipt. That kind of trust and no-hassle service is hard to
find anywhere these days. They also said they saw nothing wrong with the
old wheel, meaning that getting an out-of-round one is not too abnormal.
With the replacement, the wheel shimmy after take-off is gone ...Alleluia!
better get back to work ...seeya
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | douglas(at)post.omnitel.net |
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DBAAAAIAAAAeAAAAYgAAAAkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJ
CQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJCQkJ
CQkJCQkAAwAAAAAAAAAAANDPEeChsRrhAAAAAA==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kw012393(at)one.net |
| Subject: | long legs in a short cockpit |
I purchased a Firestar I from a friend. Flies great. Really like it.
Except...distance from seat to pedals is too short for my frame. I loosened
the back straps to lean back as far as possible. Helped some, but didn't do
anything for the seat to pedal distance.
Question: anybody ever lengthened the back of the seat by moving it further
back into the cockpit? If so, how? I'd like to explore moving the
back/seat junction point as far back in the cockpit as possible, if indeed
that IS possible without doing anything unpleasant to the Firestar I.
Comments, please.
Thanks!
-K.W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FIRESTA259(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: long legs in a short cockpit |
I built a Firestar KX, and because I am 6' 6" I extended the nose
6" to accommodate my long legs.....works great and didn't have
any adverse effect on the CG (which could occur if you moved the seat back.)
I cut the two tubes on each side of cockpit going forward about 12" aft of
the rudder pedal pivot point, oversleeved 3" on both sides of cut with 12"
length of the proper diameter/proper wall thickness tubing, leaving a 6"
unsleeved extension, tig welded each end all the way around.....perfect for
my legs. I also moved the instrument panel back 6" to allow reaching alt.,
radio, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
| Subject: | re:short cockpit |
Here's an article from last year's kolb newsletter that you should
read.
A tall builder had a friend help him build and modify a firestar. They moved
the seat back about 7 inches to acommodate the owners long legs. The proget
was completed and it was time to test fly the aircraft. They came to the
airport and realized they had forgotten the the scales for doing the weight
and balance. The builder anxious to test hop the aircraft said he would do
some taxi testing and crow hops while the owner went to get the scales. The
builder did a very short flight. He accelerated and lifted off, he started
climbing at a very steep angle and the same time was heard to add full
power. The aircraft essentially went straight, and then straight down
presumably after a stall. The pilot was killed on impact, The very probable
cause : an aircraft with a C.G. well aft of the rear limit, rendering it
very difficult to control, if not uncontrollable. Had he waited until after
the C.G. was determained, the accident would probably not have occurred.
Be careful,
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ivo Prop failures |
I read on the web/here or somewhere (i forgot thats the problem) where Ivo
prop has a mandatory check for stress cracks. The person who put this info
out said when he checked he found 2 of his three blades had the cracks Ivo
weas warning about. I want to call Ivo prop for more information, but also
want more info aboout the problem before I call. If anybody has heard of this
please drop a note.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo Prop failures |
Hello Tim,
> I read on the web/here or somewhere (i forgot thats the problem)
> where Ivo prop has a mandatory check for stress cracks. The person
> who put this info out said when he checked he found 2 of his three
> blades had the cracks Ivo weas warning about. I want to call Ivo
> prop for more information, but also want more info aboout the
> problem before I call. If anybody has heard of this please drop a
> note. tim
You may already know this and I am sure many of you others do. Ivo
sent out an AD (airworthiness directive) telling IVO prop users to
put a strip of SS tape over the joining parts of the blades down at
the blade hubs. If the tape breaks then you are to replace it and
then check it after the engine is run again. If the tape breaks
again then you are to send the blades into Ivo for inspection. Thats
what little about it I know.
Progress Report:
Well, "She" left the ground on Friday, August 30, 1996. My father
did taxi runs ect. then powered up enough to get the tail off then he
taxied back to the begining of the runway to lift off 3' above the
ground for about 1000' (good thing the runway is 6000'). He lifted
it off and was flying when suddenly the engine quit. He brought it
back to the hanger for inspection. He knew something wasn't right, so
he flew over to corning to pick up a mechanic that does a lot of work
on Rotax's. He took a look at it and said that it could be seized
because when the choke system was put on we did not put on primer
caps on the carbs. We took the heads off and the cylinders and
pistons. The mechanic then said that it doesn't look like an over
temp problem because of where the pistons are scored. Well, we are
still not exactly sure what the problem is but hope to get it solved
soon. Please be careful!!!!
The plane is done except for a few things like installing the interior
and the nose cone needs repainted unfortunately. We hope to get this
engine problem solved by the end of the week. I hope to get pictures
up of the finished plane on my page. I'll keep you informed of how
things go.
Brandon Kearbey
P.S. I know this message is long and I'm sorry but it'll keep you
entertained. I have another story to tell. Some person up here in
northern CA had a mini max with a 447 on it. He took the top end
apart to decarbonize and then reassebled it. While he reassebled he
didn't replace 3 gaskets. I don't remember exactly which ones they
were but I think that one was intake and 2 exhaust. He ran the
engine and then went to take off. At about 200' the engine quit do
to the missing gaskets and he decided to turn around. In his turn he
got too slow and stalled and then spun it. He died. Please be
careful!
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III []-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
99% done . /| / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)gulf.net> |
bkearbey wrote:
> on Rotax's. He took a look at it and said that it could be seized
> because when the choke system was put on we did not put on primer
> caps on the carbs. We took the heads off and the cylinders and
Brandon,
I'm not familiar with the choke system on this engine (yet). What is
the purpose of the primer caps? I'm guessing the working theory may be
that too much fuel entering through the primer system (with no added
oil) could have caused the seizure. Is that anywhere near correct?
What else can cause a Rotax to seize other than high CHT, or
insufficient lubrication? I'm curious to know if this seizure would have
been prevented by pre-mixing the oil rather than using the oil
injection. I've been insisting on having oil injection up to this
point, but I can't argue with the fact that it's something else that CAN
break. Please keep us up to date with your findings.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)gulf.net
http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Did someone ask what makes a two-stroke seize?
In my opinion... The most likely case for a seisure is insufficient fuel in
the fuel-air mixture. Lean it way out and the heat at the piston crown goes
thru the roof. The piston begins to distort as it expands beyond its design
and soon you have removed all the clearance between it and the cylinder wall.
Smeared metal on the wall and piston is the tell-tale evidence.
In the case of a cold engine seizure, the piston has not yet warmed up and
expanded to its designed-round shape (they are egg-shaped when cold), and you
pull too much power from it, forcing it against the cyl wall, more smeared
metal. The metal interferes with the ring's ability to seal, hence loss of
power.
Your problem could have been caused by either of these, or others, or combos.
For example, if these choke caps (or primer caps, whatever you said) were
missing and letting air into the carburetor, it could have been bypassing the
carb throat and going into the engine straight air, no fuel. Thus, lean mix.
At the same time, your engine was new, tight, and cold. These three all mean
close tolerances and succeptibilty to cold-seizure. A good mechanic can tell,
I am told, the difference between a cold and hot (lean) seizure.
For the best info on two-strokes I ever found, I recommend the book
"Two-Stroke Tuner's Handbook", state of the art when it was written 15 years
ago and still all valid.
I learned most of this in one afternoon when my first aircraft seized four
times, and I was able to restart it and fly it again the first three. The
fourth time I landed in a soybean field and dismantled it there to haul it
home in a truck. Lucky I wasn't hurt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
Primer caps are used to plug the fitting on the carb where the
primer hose would go if you had a primer. If you have a choke then you have
to cap the fittings or air will get sucked into the carb and cause a lean
mixture, which of course will seize your engine.
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello All,
Well, we found the cause for seizure of the 582. No it wasn't primer
caps, or was it running it up before the engine got warm. We bought
the engine used from a company that buys, rebuilds and resells them.
They said that the engine had 80 hours on it total. The rotax
mechanic in our area told us that the engine had a couple hundred on
it because its been bored once. When this company bored the
cylinders they only bored the first cylinder and not the second.
They then put the larger pistions in BOTH cylinders. This caused a
seizure obviously because the piston was too big for the cylinder.
The company will get a call! Its frustrating. Maybe it was a
mistake or whatever but it cost us time and money and it could have
been more serious. I don't know what we could have done to prevent
this except buy new. It really shouldn't have been a problem though.
Well, the engine is almost completely back together now.
Happy Flying,
Brandon Kearbey
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III []-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
99% done . /| / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Corning mechanic |
Hello,
I am sorry but someone asked if David Carpenter was the mechanic up
in Corning that we use. Well, if you ment Brian Carpenter then that
is a positive. He is a great mechanic and a very nice guy. He also
gave us our first ultralight rides and then we bought our MXLII from
him.
I will keep you posted on the Kolb. The engine will be fixed shortly
and a first flight is in the near future.
Brandon Kearbey
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III []-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
99% done . /| / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
9 Sep 96 13:46:15 GMT+01
| From: | "WalterP " <WALTERP(at)chiostro.univr.it> |
Dear friends
I'm looking for a project about an ultalight all in
metal (alluminium) whit the drawing, measure and the fhoto if is
possible.
I went to see in a few site internet but there is not much.
If you know something send me a message.
thankyou very much
walterp(at)chiostro.univr.it
ciao ciao
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello all,
Has anyone mounted a strobe light on their Mark III? If so could you
tell me where and how you did it? We mounted nav lights on the wings
and tail and they work well.
Thanks,
Brandon Kearbey
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III []-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
99% done . /| / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Kolb Covering Video Tape |
To Kolb Builders
A Kolb Aircraft fabric covering video tape ia now available! In this
video, we cover a Kolb Firestar II . The construction of the Firefly, Mark
III, Firestar I and II and the Slingshot are so similar that we feel the one
video tape will work for all the Kolb Aircraft.
This video tape should answer most of your painting, priming and fabric
covering questions!
The tape sales for $19.95 + $4.00 S&H
The tape is produced and sold by:
R&R Aircraft Supply Co.
2716 E. US 12
Niles, Mi. 49120
Phone (616) 683-2594
Fax (616) 684-2369
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Removal From Mail Lists |
Dear Kolb Enthusiasts!
In a casual moment I found the WEB page for Kolb and read some of the
articles. I never expected to become part of the construction and test
flying groups and their numerous exchanges.
Please remove me from any of your lists that this E-Mail reaches. In New
York City the local police force will frown upon using Central Maybe
someday I will rejoin your chat group, but for now please leave my mail box
empty.
Thanks
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Philip Correll <philip(at)dumpster.ctcexchange.com> |
Has anyone seen the SVS1400 engine in operation? The latest Aircraft
Spruce and Specialty catalog has it listed. I looked up the homepage
for Sport International Inc. (http://www.teleport.com/~zlinak) and got
some good information and pictures. The SVS1400 is a horizontally
opposed 2-cylinder, 4-stroke air cooled engine of some 80 horsepower and
slightly more torque than the Rotax 912. Seems like a strong
possibility for the MK3. Best of all the price is right, $6600 U.S.
(without muffler.)
I'm still considering options. If anyone has any input along these
line, let me know. (philip(at)ctcexchange.com) Thanks...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | elklotz(at)fnet.friendlynet.com |
Fellow Kolb builders & owners,
My friends and I have had a big discussion and we would like some more
input from any volunteers.
Do you leave the spark plug gasket on when you install the CHT
thermocouple?
Thanks again.
Emerson Klotz
"Done Building
Waiting for Sept. 18, FAA check"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff McCarty <jmccarty(at)flex.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb Firestar II for Sale |
For Sale - Kolb Firestar II
Rotax 503 - less that 100 hours logged
For more info & images see
http://www.flex.net/jeffmc/kolb.html
Thanks,
Jeff McCarty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
Well I mounted a tail light where "KZ" says to put the strobe light.
I understand that this is probably the most visible but I was
thinking more of on the bottom such as the bottom bar of the cage or
nose cone or something. If anyone else has any suggestions please
feel free to tell me. What about on the aft part of the nose cone?
Thanks
Brandon
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III []-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
99% done . /| / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Henderson <kenth(at)netusa1.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Removal From Mail Lists |
I too would like to be removed, please help
kenth(at)netusa1.net
----------
From: NYTHOR(at)aol.com[SMTP:NYTHOR(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 1996 9:02 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Removal From Mail Lists
Dear Kolb Enthusiasts!
In a casual moment I found the WEB page for Kolb and read some of the
articles. I never expected to become part of the construction and test
flying groups and their numerous exchanges.
Please remove me from any of your lists that this E-Mail reaches. In New
York City the local police force will frown upon using Central Maybe
someday I will rejoin your chat group, but for now please leave my mail box
empty.
Thanks
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | slane(at)orednet.org (Scott R. Lane) |
Re: Used Kolb or abandoned kit
I am currious to learn about the best way to find either of the above.
If anyone on this list has a plane (Kolb) or can advise me of the best
place to look for one please let me know.
Thanks.
slane(at)orednet.org
--
Scott R.Lane
slane(at)orednet.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Bentley" <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Strobe Lights on Kolbs |
Dick Kuntzleman of Kuntzleman Electronics is, I believe, one of the
best sources of information on the subject of putting lights on your
Kolb. He has built several Kolb Aircraft, owns and flies a Mark II,
and is helping build my Mark III.
Dick points out that the benefit of having strobes is that they extend
your flight for 30 minutes (I think) after sunset under the FARs. To
legally fly at night after that, you need to be certificated for night
flight, which is unlikely for Kolbs. This would require nav lights
among other things.
Dick sells strobes that are designed for ultralights and kit planes,
the wing tips.
Dick doesn't use email, but can be reached at 610 326 9068. His fax
number is 610 970 9078. He is located near Pottstown, PA, (and very
close to the Kolb factory.) I'd advise a call to Dick if you have
detailed or specific questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FSII owner/builder wants to be placed on mailing/contact list |
| From: | bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison) |
Dear fellow Kolb owners:
I've just come online and would love to hear from other FS owners and
pilots.
I took delivery of my FS kit #1 (wings and tail) on December 19, 1995. It
took one weekend for a few of us to build the 14 ribs. Total building
time was about six months, with excellent support from Kolb when I had
questions or missing parts.
I am flying with a used Rotax 377, B-box, and 2-blade Ivoprop. The first
flights were done by an experienced FS pilot and A&P. I spent three
sessions doing low and high speed taxiing, then hopped in and soloed for
the first time in a tail dragger. My previous solo time was in a trike so
I couldn't transfer much knowledge, but my dual time in GA Cessnas was
helpful. Just flare for landing a whole lot lower! I'm still flaring too
high!
I am closing in on 50 trouble-free hours now. I recently rejetted the
carb and replaced my short windshield with a full enclosure. If you'd
like to see my version, I can work up a simple sketch. This enclosure
allows full view ahead and out the sides with no tubing in your field of
vision. So far it is working well as we head into fall weather.
For everyone's reference, my EGT temps are:
RPM Temp
idle 900
3500 1000
4000 1150
4500 1000
5000 1000
5500 1000
6000 1000
I have the prop adjusted for 6000 rpm static. I'd like to get my
mid-range (4000 rpm) back down where the other readings are. I've
ordered a new jet needle (going from a 8L2 to a 8O2) so we'll see if it
helps. For comments, my e-mail address is BHarrison(at)juno.com.
Mailing address: 512 Anne Ave. Waxhaw, NC 28173.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Davies <kenneth(at)midusa.net> |
I just met a gentleman through e-mail that lives in Astoria, Oregon. His
name is Scott Lane and he seems very interested in a Kolb Aircraft. Is
there anyone in that area that would like to correspond with Scott?
His e-mail address is slane(at)orednet.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison) |
I sent this report to another Kolb owner and he suggested I post it for
general consumption. I have a FSII, test flown in June '96 with about 50
hours on it now. My FS is equipped with a 377 and 2-blade Ivoprop.
ast Sunday afternoon I went flying with another FS owner. He flew in
front of me, about 3-4' above the Catawba River, while I flew high cover
(50') and watched for wires, etc. We surprised a few deer, who splashed
vigorously and made for the trees. The Catawba is very shallow and not
all that wide, so the effect is that of flying down a canyon. We also
surprised a couple fishermen who were expecting a motor boat to come
around the corner rather than a couple of big white "birds." After 15
minutes of this very exhilarating flying, we had to pop up over a set of
wires and a bridge. We turned for home, but couldn't resist "landing" at
Lancaster airport. Lancaster has a 5000' paved runway and very little GA
traffic. It is a blast to do about 5 takeoffs and landings each pass down
the strip. You can get a lot of practice that way! North of the strip are
endless fields of soybeans, so the low-level sightseeing can continue a
few more miles until it is time to pop back up to cruise altitude,
1000'. We fly out of the JAARS-Townsend airfield near Waxhaw, NC. Look
for it S SE of Charlotte--yes--we're under the wedding cake for
Charlotte-Douglass.
There are at least 5 private grass strips within 20 miles of us, which
means plenty of fun destinations. I'll report on them sometime. Enjoy.
egards,
Bruce E. Harrison BHarrison(at)juno.comt,k&
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | elklotz(at)FRIENDLYNET.COM |
Kolb Builders,
I'm proud to report that an experience Kolb builder/owner/pilot came and
gave my MarK 3 its first test flight, and everything went perfect as
planned. Now it's a matter of waiting for a good calm day so I can get
my first flight in it.
Emerson Klotz
Mark 3 builder/owner/almost pilot
N6268A
I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff <harley(at)gte.net> |
Jeff here,
My Dad and I have about 3 weeks building time in our Firefly and are
getting ready to start covering.
A most pleasing craft to build too. Most foolproof. If you can put
together Christmas stuff,bike,swings and such, this for you.
If all goes well first flight soon. will post.
fly safe..
I must add though
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> |
Greetings from Cleveland,
Well, I've got 2 weeks left of my 4 weeks in Cleveland. Hopefully,
the Slingshot wing kit will arrive at home just after I do. I have
decided to go for the 582 engine rather than the 503. I just can't
give up the extra power (must be all those "Home Improvement" reruns).
My question is about the Rotax warranty when the engine is purchased
through Kolb. When does the warranty start? I'm guessing
that it normally starts when the engine is shipped. I noticed in the
LEAF catalog that you can apply for a warranty extension if the
engine isn't used immediately. Is that a LEAF deal, or something
that Rotax offers? Does anybody know if there's any way to get your
full 6 months of warranty from the time you first use the engine,
even if you've had it sitting around for a couple months? I plan to
order the engine plenty early to insure that there are no further
delays in my project, but I would like to get at least some use out of
the minimal warranty that Rotax offers.
Thanks,
Rusty
12 more days in Cleveland
P.S.- Jeff, Why's that Firefly taking so long :-)
t
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff <harley(at)gte.net> |
Rusty, if you knew my pop you'd know why. He built a Pitts S1 in the
garage,about 1 year. He gets obsessed. I'm simi-retired so lots of time.
And we both have quite an assortment of tools.
He's doing the wings & tail, I do the rest HA!
Good luck on your project and fly safe..
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax warranty? |
On Sun, 22 Sep 1996, Russell Duffy wrote:
> My question is about the Rotax warranty when the engine is purchased
> through Kolb. When does the warranty start? I'm guessing
> that it normally starts when the engine is shipped. I noticed in the
> LEAF catalog that you can apply for a warranty extension if the
> engine isn't used immediately. Is that a LEAF deal, or something
> that Rotax offers? Does anybody know if there's any way to get your
> full 6 months of warranty from the time you first use the engine,
> even if you've had it sitting around for a couple months? I plan to
> order the engine plenty early to insure that there are no further
> delays in my project, but I would like to get at least some use out of
> the minimal warranty that Rotax offers.
>
I talked to Kolb about that same question. In short, the warranty is for
six months after you first start the engine or 9 months after delivery. I
don't remember if those are the exact numbers, but you can get your full
6 months warranty if you install it within a few months after you get it.
This installation time can, I believe, be extended. Call Kolb for
details, since I forgot them.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax warranty? |
On Sun, 22 Sep 1996, Russell Duffy wrote:
> My question is about the Rotax warranty when the engine is purchased
> through Kolb. When does the warranty start? I'm guessing
This is a Rotax warranty. It is good for 6 months starting from the
first run of the engine, but this starting point must be within 12 months
of the Rotax delivery date stamped on the box the engine shipped in.
I received my engine in ~Sept, and Rotax date stamp was ~March. I first
ran the engine in Feb, so got a true 6 months warranty, but just barely.
All of this is stated clearly in the Kolb bulders manual. Also part of
the warranty, you must fill out a card and return it to the Rotax dealer
along with the date sticker.
Rusty, maybe you can find an Air Race museum to check out during your
exciting stay in Cleveland? Careful tho', see all those fast planes
and you'll be dumping the 582 for even more power. By the time you
finish building, you will have finally opted for the 912 turbo! :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks, Warranty info |
Thanks for the responses on the Rotax warranty issue. I feel better
about the 6 month deal now. Again, it seems like the first step to
answering all my questions would be to read the manual. Perhaps that
will happen soon.
Ben, thanks for the article, I just received it today and will read
it later. Probably send you some comments afterwards. BTW, 914
doesn't even make it in the running for engines. My second choice is
still the Mazda rotary.
Rusty
11 more days of Cleveland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | elklotz(at)FRIENDLYNET.COM |
To all the Kolb Group,
Last Thursday I able to tell you all that a test pilot had flown my Mark
III, today I get to tell all that I got in my first fight in it. ONE
GREAT FEELING!!!
I did get some questions that I wasn't able to answer before. (computer
problems)
Would I solo in it after test flight? Yes, as you can tell, BUT take
notice that I got 5.5 hrs of dual at Kolb in Pa. last July.
Does my test pilot live in Texas? No, we live in the northern part of
Ohio. The test pilot has built several planes including 2 Kolbs and he
had monitored every step of the building process. Also several members
of his EAA Chapter had stopped and reviewed my progress on different
occasions.
If I can be any help to anyone just write.
Best
Emerson Klotz (owner/buider/PILOT)
N6268A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> |
| Subject: | Something on my Doorstep |
Greetings all,
My wife informed me that there was something from Kolb on the
doorstep today when she got home. It's bigger than a bill but
smaller than a kit, so it must be the plans! Too bad I won't get to
see them for a week and a half. This news is going to make being
stuck out of town even worse. Rats! Of course she also said
something about hiding the plans until I spend some time with her. I
think she knows where I'll be after the kit arrives :-)
Rusty
9 more days
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
Hi Everyone...
I did not disappear. By golly, the house is sold, the car is traded, the
move to the apartment is over, downsizing is complete. Many changes have
occured. I kept my wife and she kept me. Now, back to the Kolb. Finding a
(reasonable) hanger and storage for the household goods we could not divest
ourselves of has been a real pain.
I finally found a place at Aero Country (near McKinney, Tx.). It is a kinda
run down T-hanger - really dirty with, leaky roof and floor that puddles up
with every rain and doors that hardy open. I have cleaned most of the caked
on dirt off the floor and it is starting to look better. I think I can
adjust the doors to operate better. I purchased about 20 pallets to store
all of our stuff on to keep it out of the water when it rains. At least it
is all mine and the price is right - $125/mo. I will be moving everything
in over the next month.
I passed my 3rd class physical. Next week I will start training in a J3 to
get my skills up to par and bi-annual and also to get signed off on a tail
dragger. They also have a Cessna 120 that I hope to check out in as well.
I will now lay low for awhile until the time that I can report some real
progress... like FAA sign off, engine run, and 1st flight.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Re-Max residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> |
Hello again,
I ordered my covering video today and also talked to Kolb. It's
really going to happen. My wing kit will be shipping out Monday! It
should be at my house about the time I get home Friday. With any
luck, I can get it delivered Friday morning while my wife is home
waiting to pick me up at the airport. What a welcome home that will
make. The fuselage kit shouldn't be too far behind.
Rusty
7 more days
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff <harley(at)gte.net> |
Rusty,
The video is really good ,well worth the money. I read the stits book
and the video made it lots easier to understand.
I just came in from covering the vert. stab. Have done a bunch of
RC and bigger is easier! Wings should go very fast.
Then painting and we are ready!!
Going flying tomorrow and the plane I use flies like a truck.
We have the 477 and I think it's going to get an electric starter
as Dad will never start it. Says he's going to hand prop, BOO.
Well thats how he learned.
Jeff
harley(at)gte.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geoff Allen <geoffall(at)ctv.es> |
| Subject: | Twinstar III seats and safety |
Several people in the UK have been injured with severe spinal
injuries after crashes in Twinstar III causing the British CAA to
recommend a modification which resulted in the UK distributor
(MAINAIR) offering the option of replacing the original canvas bottom
seats with an aluminium tray supporting an energy absorbing cushion.
I don't know if this mod. is offered where you are but it could be worth
considering.
As an aside, I live in Spain and have not yet seen a KOLB here. Anyone
know any different?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Watson <psi(at)pivot.net> |
Hi to all,
My name is Mike Watson and I=92m new to this Kolb mail group. I was hopin=
g
some of you builders and flyers might share you=92re experiences of the
Kolb Mark III. I=92m a private pilot who=92s tired of paying high rental
fee=92s and being told the 172=92s booked every nice day we get. I have b=
een
looking at kits for a long time now, there are a lot of good looking
ones to choose from. A couple other companies I=92ve thought about are
Rans and Challenger, but I seem to keep coming back to the Mach III. I
would appreciate any info on what you have to go through to get one of
these pretty little birds up in the air. Living in Maine there are not
many experimental aircraft around so anything you can tell me will help.
Thanks,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primming the aluminum parts |
Dear friends,
I'm nearing the point were if I wan't to protect the aluminum parts in the
wing and tail this is the time to do it. I know Kolb indicates they don't
prime this parts it but I wonder if anyone had a Kolb for many years and has
taken a peek at the aluminum structure to check for corrosion, particularlly
in areas near the coastline. I live in Florida and I am concerned about not
priming the parts but would like to avoid it if it is not really necessary.
My Kolb will be kept indoors all times.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
To all kolb builders: I'm building a firestar II and the other day I
noticed that a brace on one of my metal wing ribs was not welded. It's the
brace that goes to the 5" ring and to the square tube. The brace is about
3/8 of an inch in diameter and about 2 inches long. Unfortunately I didn't
notice it until I had the wing assembled. Has anyone else notice this
problem? Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff <harley(at)gte.net> |
Well we'r to the point that i will start spraying the fus. tomarrow.
All covered but one wing,POP's doing that. Going to be yellow and
black like Dad's old Pitts S1. I hope he fly's this more gently.
I highly recomend the tape on covering even if you have done it before.
Cris- I live in Tampa Bay and didn't consider painting the alum.
Will store under cover and am not interested in flying around salt
water.
Am useing poly-spray though for sunlight
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Stripling <stripling(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
| Subject: | New lists online at intrig.com |
I have completed moving three lists from ftw.mot.com to intrig.com.
You should have received an email welcoming you to the new lists.
If you get either that email or this email or both, then you are
on the lists.
Please direct future list email to one of:
In the next few weeks, we'll be moving the list archives and I'll
be setting up public web access to the archives. I hope no one was
disturbed by the list move and I think everyone got on the
lists you were on at the old place.
Thanks again to Motorola for supplying the original home for
the lists for almost two years!
Contact me if you have any problems related to these lists...
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
| Subject: | Hinges & tube benders |
Russell, I am planning to use the 582 for my SlingShot. I'm on the
heavy side (210) and want the performance but certainly don't want
to invest in a 912. Sorry for the delayed response. Still trying to
recover from hurricane Fran and an ISO 9000 audit @ work.
Reading through the builder's manual I have a couple of questions.
1. Why not drill the hinges and use cotter pins to retain the hinge
pin like Cessna does rather than crimp the ends. Why? Never
say never. Granted it would be part of the pre-flight inspection
to verify that they were still there. (I would check this even if
crimped).
2. I like the idea of having radiuses on the corners of the control
surfaces. What kind (brand ect.) of tubing bender does one
use to fabricate such pleasing shapes and where could such
a tool be purchased.
I'm now gathering my tools together & bench materials. Bought
one of those nifty Black & Decker cordless screwdrivers and a high
speed countersink for de-burring holes. It turns @ 105 rpms, works
great.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
________________________________________________________________________________
Please tell me what is a ( Lighting coil )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinges & tube benders |
On Mon, 21 Oct 1996, Howard G. Penny wrote:
> Reading through the builder's manual I have a couple of questions.
>
> 1. Why not drill the hinges and use cotter pins to retain the hinge
> pin like Cessna does rather than crimp the ends. Why? Never
> say never. Granted it would be part of the pre-flight inspection
> to verify that they were still there. (I would check this even if
> crimped).
I remember somebody drilled a small hole thru the ends of each hinge
and used safety wire as a "pin". Seems good to me. What I did was
to use a short screw (1/4" ? 4-40? without tapping) at each end of each
hinge, with a dab of epoxy to keep it there. LockTight might be better,
but then you might never get it out either; don't know. I dabbed a tiny
spot of different color paint across the screw/hinge that I can check
periodically to verify nothing is vibrating loose. I think either of
these methods is better than pinched ends just cuz it allows you to
later remove the control surface without drilling out the hinge rivets.
>
> 2. I like the idea of having radiuses on the corners of the control
> surfaces. What kind (brand ect.) of tubing bender does one
> use to fabricate such pleasing shapes and where could such
> a tool be purchased.
I used a piece of plywood with the desired radius, and this works very
well. You can get a very good tight radius on the 5/16" 6061T6 tubing
this way. In fact, I tried a tube bender and got worse results, i.e.
tiny little marks on a practice piece.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu ======================================
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ...Give me the stength to change the
things i can, the grace to accept the
things i cannot, and a great big bag
of money.
________________________________________________________________________________
Good to see ideas change hands,not to much talk on thih list.
The hinge ideas are very good, I used SS cotter keys.
Also something to consider,Myself being a 45 year old Harley rider,
I used Harley oil tank mounts,(they are rubber lord mounts),to mount
the dash panel.[3] They stick out about 1/2-3/4 inch but if you krinkel
the back of the nose cone it looks quite good.Paint from same or auto.
Does work for vibration!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinges & tube benders |
My 1/50 of a dollar,
> 1. Why not drill the hinges and use cotter pins to retain the hinge
> pin like Cessna does rather than crimp the ends. Why? Never
> say never. Granted it would be part of the pre-flight inspection
> to verify that they were still there. (I would check this even if
> crimped).
Agreed. There is a mention of using 1/16" cotter pins on page 10 of the
plans under the aileron hinge text. I'm using the pins on all the
hinges for sure.
> 2. I like the idea of having radiuses on the corners of the control
> surfaces. What kind (brand ect.) of tubing bender does one
> use to fabricate such pleasing shapes and where could such
> a tool be purchased.
I bought mine at Lowes in the plumbing section. It's made by Superior
Tools and cost $26.43. It bends 3 sizes of tubing with 5/16 being the
middle size. It looks like that's the only size we need. I've already
finished the elevators and rudder and it worked beautifully. The rudder
is mostly bend by hand around a large object, but there were still a
couple of places that the bender came in handy.
> I'm now gathering my tools together & bench materials. Bought
> one of those nifty Black & Decker cordless screwdrivers and a high
> speed countersink for de-burring holes. It turns @ 105 rpms, works
> great.
I would suggest getting about 30-50, 1/8" clecos and pliers. These are
nifty little clamps that you really want (trust me). I'm looking for an
air driven pop-rivet gun now. I didn't figure it would be all that
necessary, but there are an awful lot of rivets in those bags. So far I
haven't been able to find a reasonably priced one locally, so I'll be
ordering one soon. $50-$60 seems to be a reasonable price.
Actual SlingShot building pictures should be posted by this weekend.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinges & tube benders |
Why not rent an air driven rivit gun? I needed to remove the pulley bolt
from three Subaru engines, one to replace the engine with a blown piston.
We spent better than two hours trying to figure out how to turn the
pulley bolt by jamming a cloth in the camshaft gear, jamming a piece of
wood in the camshaft gear, and then a piece of plastic. We didn't want to
use anything metal because we were afraid of damage to the gears (teeth.)
The following weekend I rented an electric impact wrench and had all
three pulleys off in about twenty seconds. Cost was $20 for the day but
it sure beat ruining a camshaft gear.
Of course, you would have to have a lot of riviting planned. On the other
hand, if you belong to a club, get several people from the club to help
with the purchase and buy one for the hangar. $50-$60 doesn't sound too
bad. The electric impact wrench would have been from $170-$260.
Best regards,
Ron B.
[ some snipping done to save bandwidth ]
On Mon, 21 Oct 1996, Russell Duffy wrote:
> I would suggest getting about 30-50, 1/8" clecos and pliers. These are
> nifty little clamps that you really want (trust me). I'm looking for an
> air driven pop-rivet gun now. I didn't figure it would be all that
> necessary, but there are an awful lot of rivets in those bags. So far I
> haven't been able to find a reasonably priced one locally, so I'll be
> ordering one soon. $50-$60 seems to be a reasonable price.
>
> --
> Russell Duffy
> rad(at)pen.net
> http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
"You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinges & tube benders |
Ron B. wrote:
>
> Why not rent an air driven rivit gun?
> Of course, you would have to have a lot of riviting planned.
This would be the problem. It looks like there's 2300 rivets with the
prebuilt ribs. These would be spread out over many building sessions,
making tool rental expensive. I just ordered a gun for $62 from
Northern Tool. Probably money well spent.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Hinges & tube benders |
I have pulled all of the rivets on my MKIII with a hand gun and it has
not been that bad, and I did not have prebuilt ribs. Just make sure you
get a good puller not one in the hardware store made to aluminum rivets.
>----------
>From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 1996 9:54 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: Hinges & tube benders
>
>Ron B. wrote:
>>
>> Why not rent an air driven rivit gun?
>
>> Of course, you would have to have a lot of riviting planned.
>
>This would be the problem. It looks like there's 2300 rivets with the
>prebuilt ribs. These would be spread out over many building sessions,
>making tool rental expensive. I just ordered a gun for $62 from
>Northern Tool. Probably money well spent.
>
>--
>Russell Duffy
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Rivet tooling, my opinion... |
During the assembly of the Mark III, I used both a Marson Clik-fast hand
rivet tool (one of the best small hand tool riveters available) and a
pneumatic unit with no name from Northern Hydraulics. I could not have done
all the rivetting by hand, for reasons of near-carpel tunnel syndrome wrists
anyway. But more important to anyone making the decision today with no medical
restrictions, the quality of the pneumatically-pulled rivets was better than
the mechanical tool could produce. This may be a small issue but the rivets
pulled by pneumatic tool were pulled in one clean instant stroke instead of
two or three shorter ones. This meant that I could put better pressure on
the assembly and then just squeeze the trigger.
This usually allowed me to hold with one hand and rivet with the other.
Sometimes the nose of the
pneumatic tool was too big to fit into the space so I would use the Marson
hand tool with good results. Doing this reminded me of how much faster,
smoother, and easier the pneumatic tool is.
Besides, there is great satisfaction in the SOUND the riveter makes and
the feeling of power you get by operating it (and it was a good excuse to
buy one). Don't spend hundreds on it, my cheap one (about 60 dollars) works
great now, even AFTER the thousands of rivets it takes to build a Kolb.
Don't forget to oil it every day, just a few drops.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Hinges & tube benders |
For pneumatic rivet puller see Northern Hydraulic out of Minn. They have them
for about $60. My experience is they ship right away where as Harbor Freight
takes a couple of weeks. You can buy, use it and sell it later and only take a
small hit. Kind of like paying a rental fee the only problem most people get
possessive and keep it after they complete the project.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Hinges & tube benders
Date: 10/21/96 9:12 PM
My 1/50 of a dollar,
> 1. Why not drill the hinges and use cotter pins to retain the hinge
> pin like Cessna does rather than crimp the ends. Why? Never
> say never. Granted it would be part of the pre-flight inspection
> to verify that they were still there. (I would check this even if
> crimped).
Agreed. There is a mention of using 1/16" cotter pins on page 10 of the
plans under the aileron hinge text. I'm using the pins on all the
hinges for sure.
> 2. I like the idea of having radiuses on the corners of the control
> surfaces. What kind (brand ect.) of tubing bender does one
> use to fabricate such pleasing shapes and where could such
> a tool be purchased.
I bought mine at Lowes in the plumbing section. It's made by Superior
Tools and cost $26.43. It bends 3 sizes of tubing with 5/16 being the
middle size. It looks like that's the only size we need. I've already
finished the elevators and rudder and it worked beautifully. The rudder
is mostly bend by hand around a large object, but there were still a
couple of places that the bender came in handy.
> I'm now gathering my tools together & bench materials. Bought
> one of those nifty Black & Decker cordless screwdrivers and a high
> speed countersink for de-burring holes. It turns @ 105 rpms, works
> great.
I would suggest getting about 30-50, 1/8" clecos and pliers. These are
nifty little clamps that you really want (trust me). I'm looking for an
air driven pop-rivet gun now. I didn't figure it would be all that
necessary, but there are an awful lot of rivets in those bags. So far I
haven't been able to find a reasonably priced one locally, so I'll be
ordering one soon. $50-$60 seems to be a reasonable price.
Actual SlingShot building pictures should be posted by this weekend.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Hinges, tube benders & Leading Edges |
Folks, sorry about the delay - I have been working in SE Asia.
We used RANS Stainless hinges on all control surfaces - they use a drilled AN3
for the hinge piot.
FWIW, we pulled all our Firestar II rivets by hand. They are OK, but nothing
brilliant. An air powered gun would do a better job. Whatever you do, DON'T
buy the expensive combination rivnut/pop rivet puller D-100-RN from Fastening
Systems International, Sonoma, via Aircraft Spruce. It is hopeless for pops -
(but nice for the ten or so rivnuts you'll ever use!)
Secondly, we beautifully radiused the control surface ends using the round side
of a 4 gallon drum.
Thirdly, we have just completed making beautiful, smooth, leading edges. We
used 0.016" aluminium, 24" wide, coming from 3" under the leading edge, and
almost to the spar, on top. Two pop rivets in each rib - not the false ribs.
Sealed the underside against the ribs with spray-in expanding foam to stop
vibration and drumming.
Lokks great.
Only another 90% to completion...
best wishes
Pete Gorton
BISI Pty Ltd 17 Dunstan Parade, PORT MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA 3207
fx +61 3 9645 2143
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | more hinge questions |
I am all done, have all the hinges crimped but am covering and none are yet
attached, and after reading all the suggestions about having them so one can
take the pin out I think I will re do mine. Here are some ideas, I am open
to some suggestions about them, and would like your input.
1- drill a small hole on the ends and install a cotterpin.
2- drill a small hole and place a bolt and washer, ie maybe a 4/40 like I use
in modeling.
Just looking for ideas, please give me your suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Hinges & tube benders |
Regarding the drilling hinges for the cotter pins method, I found that
its hard to do, the pins are never in the right position and interfere
also an concerned about cracking since there isn't much edge distance.
I do like the ability to remove the components from the airframe but
finally thought about it for awhile and concluded how often would you
have to do that. Decided to use the crimped end method. The screw
approach is interesting but I would be very concerned that the screws
would work out even if lock-tited. I've seem many strange things
happen when vibration is involved. This is to critical to risk,
that's my opinion.
Regarding riveting using hand pullers, there are some tough die hards
out there. I commend them if their hands can take it, mine couldn't.
A friend thought he could do the same. Didn't take long for him to
part with the bucks not only for a puller but a compressor too. When
your done, sell it to an RV builder.
Some years ago I was terminating electrical panels. This involved the
installation of hundreds of wire crimps. To save our hands we
obtained leveraged crimpers. Has anyone seen such a tool for pulling
rivets. I am surprised there isn't a Taiwan knock off.
A snap punch (General Tools) is probably the handiest little gadgets
around. Avery Tools Bedford Tx sells aircraft tools especially to the
RV aircraft kit builders. He has the General aluminum body snap
punches for about $12.00. Here in Dallas area the darn things are
getting up to about $18-20 in the local hardware stores including Home
Depot. I wouldn't waste my money on the China knock offs. After you
use them a little while you'll find they don't hold up and become
harder to use or break.
TIP: A friend broke the tips off 2 of his snap punches and thought
they were throwaways. (He was prying a rivet with one and dropped the
other.) After you break the tip off the issue then becomes how do
your get the remaining threaded part of the tip out of the punch. I
was able to get them and using a very pointed scribe (another General
tool) catching the edge of the broken tip and slowly rotate it out.
He became a happy camper. They normally turn easy, which might be a
good point, don't lock them in with lock-tite, just tighten them with
pliers. They bottom out on the shoulder of the tip, thus when they
break, the remaining part turns easy which is what you want. Just
order a new replacement tip and screw it in and your back in business.
I recommend you under drill (smaller size) your rivet holes. This has
a couple benefits Example for a .125 hole drill a #31 or #41 drill.
If you need to move a hole just a little you can, also as you assemble
and disassemble you wallow out the holes. Clear drilling the final
hole then you have a tight clean hole for final assembly.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: FW: Hinges & tube benders
Date: 10/22/96 2:31 PM
I have pulled all of the rivets on my MKIII with a hand gun and it has
not been that bad, and I did not have prebuilt ribs. Just make sure you
get a good puller not one in the hardware store made to aluminum rivets.
>----------
>From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 1996 9:54 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: Hinges & tube benders
>
>Ron B. wrote:
>>
>> Why not rent an air driven rivit gun?
>
>> Of course, you would have to have a lot of riviting planned.
>
>This would be the problem. It looks like there's 2300 rivets with the
>prebuilt ribs. These would be spread out over many building sessions,
>making tool rental expensive. I just ordered a gun for $62 from
>Northern Tool. Probably money well spent.
>
>--
>Russell Duffy
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: more hinge questions |
I don't think you'll have room for a 4-40 screw. You have barely enough room
for a tiny (1/16"-dia) cotter pin. The other thing you have to keep in mind is
the interference of the pin with the hinge as it moves through its travel range.
The hole has to be positioned just so to prevent contact with the hinge itself,
the elevator and horizontal stab. This is where we gave up on that ideal after
trying one hinge and seeing how tight it is and how exact the hole position must
be. As the cotter pin makes contact it works and will eventually break off.
As to drilling a hole through the rolled part of the hinge material to put a
screw through, I would be very concerned about the strength of the remaining
edge material. The rolled part where the hole is drilled would probably crack
or fracture in time due to the pressure exerted against the rolled part as the
screw hits interference points as the hinge is moved through it travel range.
I
am basing this on a FireFly, but I believe it should hold true on the other
models.
Having tried the cotter pin method, we were not satisfied with the resulting
interference problems, the time consumed and exactness required in positing the
hole during the drilling process, followed by the difficult installation of the
cotter pin. We thus concluded using a sharp drill we could easily drill out a
few rivets it we needed.
You may make it work but to do it right takes a lot of time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[4]: Hinges & tube benders |
Northern Hydraulic phone number is 1-800-533-5545.
If you happen to be in the Dallas Texas area they have a store in
Plano at Campbell Road just West of I-75.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Re[2]: Hinges & tube benders
Date: 10/23/96 11:05 AM
Jerry, have you got a phone number fro Norther Hydraulic?
-- Don
At 02:35 PM 10/22/96 cst, you wrote:
>For pneumatic rivet puller see Northern Hydraulic out of Minn. They have
them
>for about $60. My experience is they ship right away where as Harbor
Freight
>takes a couple of weeks. You can buy, use it and sell it later and only
take a
>small hit. Kind of like paying a rental fee the only problem most people
get
>possessive and keep it after they complete the project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Ramsey <dramsey(at)ro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Hinges & tube benders |
Does anyone have a decent mail-order source for good quality drill bits,
rivets, etc?
-- Don
At 04:46 PM 10/22/96, jerryb wrote:
> I recommend you under drill (smaller size) your rivet holes. This has
> a couple benefits Example for a .125 hole drill a #31 or #41 drill.
> If you need to move a hole just a little you can, also as you assemble
> and disassemble you wallow out the holes. Clear drilling the final
> hole then you have a tight clean hole for final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: BRe: more hinge questions: 4-40 |
On Tue, 22 Oct 1996 Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote:
> 2- drill a small hole and place a bolt and washer, ie maybe a 4/40 like I use
> in modeling.
>
Earlier in this thread i had suggested using 4-40x1/4" screws instead of
pinching the hinge ends. What I meant (and what I did on mine) was:
I did not drill anything. I just screwed the small screws into the ends
of the hinges where they would otherwise be pinched. This presents no
edge distance problems as cotter pins could, and no possible binding between
a cotter pin or safety wire and the hinge pin itself. The AL hinge material
is soft enf that you easily can self-tap the 4-40s in, and if you dab in some
paint or epoxy, they will stick well enf to not vibrate free. just over
100 hours on mine and no screws loose at all.
( ...too bad the same can't be said for me.)
after all of this i have not dbl checked that they were 4-40, but i think so.
(whatever it was, they were tight enf to self tap in for a perfect fit.)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mail order tools |
Don,
"Avery Enterprises" was mentioned earlier. I ordered just about one of
everything from their catalog back in my RV days. They have to be about
the best people I've ever dealt with, and they carry everything for
sheet metal work (except air pop-rivet guns). I can't remember if they
charge for their catalog, but I don't think so. You can call them at
1-800-652-8379 and ask.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Harman" <coffee(at)kuentos.guam.net> |
Hi all,
I'm wondering if anyone has fitted a Kolb UL with floats while keeping it
UL legal.
I live on a small island where 99% of suitable take-off and landing areas
are from sheltered water.
Any input is appreciated,
-Rich-
========================================
13 29N, 155 45E coffee(at)kuentos.guam.net
http://www.guam.net/home/coffee/index.htm
========================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
| Subject: | hinge and rivets |
The hinge and riveting tool thing sure has got alot of attention in the
last few days, so I'll put in my two cents.
I pulled all the my rivets in by hand, I think it's the best way because you
can feel how hard the rivet pulls, by that you know how good the rivet is
going to hold. On the hinge why go through all the trouble of drilling a
hole for a cotter pin, or thread the pin and put a nut on it, when you could
do what the instrutions tells you and crimp the ends, if for some you have
to remove the parts, just uncrimp it, remember the hinge is just aluminium
all you would need is a small punch or needle nose. Remember what they say
about building planes, KIS (keep it simple)
Thanks for listening,
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
> Just to get the list off the hinge subject, maybe I'll tell everyone
> that you have a great new brake and canopy modification to tell us
> about. What's my silence worth to you ;-)
> Rusty
hmmm... i've not put on the brakes as I found that i didn't have quite
the right angle on the parts that hold the shoes. I need to re-weld
that angle, and my access to a welder is not totally simple, allowing me
to procrastinate. I did try out the canopy though. My first reaction
was that i didn't like it. I should have built it 1-2" higher, and had
originally cut it this way. Rats!
In climb or cruise the wind deflects over my head fine. But if i get
over cruise speed the wind starts to hit me right about in the forehead.
A previous Kolb owner told me that with the original Firestars using
this sort of canopy, which in fact was much shorter than mine, the wind
deflection was fine and you could even wear a baseball cap without it
blowing away. I can only guess that he wears his hats extremely tight,
either preventing them from blowing away, or cutting off circulation
and ruining his memory. Later in the day, as the temps moved up from 40
to 65, that wind on the forehead wasn't so bothersome at all. I guess
i'll fly it this way and then just go drop another $60 for a new piece
of lexan to make it 1.5" higher as we move into winter flying. At least
the canopy hinge and latch method worked great. (does this bring us
full circle back to hinge discussion?)
One of the cool things about this last flight was that i saw 2 golden
eagles just 10 miles north of town here. I haven't seen a golden eagle
in California in over 10 years, and flying an UL is the only reason I
was in an area to see them this time.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | hinges, more info in case your still interested. |
OK, I'll try to explain the hinge modification I came up with.
It may seem very complicated and it is certainly tough to explain
but it did not take too much effort or time (about 2 hours for all
the hinges on the MkIII). I later did a couple door hinges with the
crimp method and decided I liked the cotter pins better.
Have a hinge in your hand as you read this:
1. I took the hinge pin out.
2. Each end of the hinge leafs will look different: one end will have
a barrel section and the other end of that leaf will have a tab (no
barrel section), if the hinge length is an even number of inches long.
Because of this, I drilled one end of each of the two leafs.
>>PRACTICE ON A FOUR-INCH PC A COUPLE TIMES!<<
3. I drilled the barrel sections with the drill bit parallel to the hinge
leaf, straight thru both sides of the barrel, 1/16" hole. The hole was
drilled thru about in the middle of that last barrel section. The drill
was located as close to the leaf as possible (touching it).
4. When I reassembled the hinge and inserted the hinge pin, then
inserted the 1/16" cotter pin, I realized that the other side of the
hinge (the free tab side), would be interfered-with by the cotter pin's
legs, even if they were bent straight flat with the barrel. So a little
trimming of the free tab side of the hinge was necessary. I cut a 1/16"
piece out parallel to the barrel, to make more clearance between the
barrel and the free tab.
5. Now when I put the cotter pins in, thru the barrel, toward the free
tab side of the hinge, I cut off one of the cotter legs to approx 1/8"
and bent it down flat against the barrel. The other leg of the cotter
was trimmed to 1/2" and also bent flat against the barrel, and left to
extend out the end of the hinge (parallel to the hinge pin). This was
then bent with a 180 degree bend and the very end 1/16" of it was
reinserted into the end of the hinge barrel. All bends were done very
carefully not to damage the legs too badly.
6. The hinge pins were cut to length and a light coat of a sticky lube
wiped on before inserting them.
7. Obviously you have to put the hinge pin in before you put in the
second cotter pin.
Service:
I think it will be worthwhile to remove the pins once a year to clean
and relube them. It may extend the life of our soft aluminum hinges.
I will be using lube very sparingly, so as not to collect dirt.
I am not advocating this, over crimping or bolting. I am offering
it as a process you could follow on a small hinge pc to help decide
if you want to do your plane this way. It is more work but looks
bulletproof to me (small bullets only, please).
________________________________________________________________________________
What are most doing about starting alone by hand? We have the 447
and no electric starter.Anyone have a starter on a 447?
I have considered wheel chocks with a rope,but am afraid of prop
picking up the rope.
Now the idea is a parking brake lock as i have brakes.
Any idea's?
Jeff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | geraldj(at)csufresno.edu (Gerald Jones) |
Harley,
A simple "partking brake" you can use if your brake handle is a lever on
your joy stick is a tie wrap. Make a loop of a tie wrap that is tight
enough to squeeze the brake lever when it is slipped over the stick and the
brake lever. When it is not needed, you can store it on the brake lever.
Happy Flying,
Jerry Jones
>What are most doing about starting alone by hand? We have the 447
>and no electric starter.Anyone have a starter on a 447?
> I have considered wheel chocks with a rope,but am afraid of prop
>picking up the rope.
> Now the idea is a parking brake lock as i have brakes.
>Any idea's?
>Jeff.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pepper, Hugh" <hpepper(at)VFB10MS.VF.LMCO.COM> |
| Subject: | custom enclosed cockpit for Firestar |
Hi guys/gals,
Now that the weather is getting colder here in S.E Pennsylvania, I have been
looking at the possibility of creating a better enclosure system for my
Firestar.
The current plane is the original Firestar (1987 or so) and it has the
original "half windshield" mounted on the nose...
I have heard of the many designs with lexan and hinging on the left side
rail with a support tube bowwed up and over the head... but has any one ever
made a full enclosed canopy that hinges from the front???
I was thinking about a small frame made of tubing that forms the canopy but
with rails that extend just a little further down near your feet (these are
parellel and almost against the side steal cage rails)
These canopy frame rails would extend about 6 inches forward past the
fiberglass nose-cone, where they would be attached with 2 pivot bolts....
This would allow the whole frame and canopy to swing up instead of to the
left, with the pivot fulcrum near your feet instead of along the left cage
frame rail.
Any concerns that you could think of.. or has this been tried before???
Thanks,
Hugh M. Pepper
pepper(at)mds.lmco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | thanks for the hinge responses |
Boy did I get a lot of responses with my hinge questions. After playing a bit
I finally decided to drill a small hole through the area where the hinge pin
is and just next to it in the flat part of the hinge, I then run safety wire
through both holes and back around and twist the wire like a normal safety
wire installation. I played with cotterpins, 4/40 bolts etc, and decided that
the safety wire worked the best for me. The thing I did do however, is at
first I had the end crimped on all the fnished hinges, so i had to go back
and cut the crimp out and re finish the hinges, they look just fine and I
installed my rudder. Boy thats a lot of pop rivets to drill out if ever
needed, so I am glad I decided to use the removable pin. (I bet that I will
never have to remove the flying surfaces after all this)
Someone also wrote about using some lubricant. I have not but it sounds like
a good idea. (especially since I can now remove them easily) but what does
everybody suggest as a lubricant.
Hows that for a long mesage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tgr(at)rmii.com (thomas g. rampton) |
About starting an engine: Talk of chocks, tie wraps on the brake lever, etc...
One of the basics of aviation is not starting an engine unless the aircraft
is either tied down, or you are at the controls. It's a rule for me.
Inconvenient? Lots of aircraft have taken off all by themselves, and they
often fly just fine! The landings, however, have usually been hard and
costly. Aircraft follow Murphy's Law.
Tom Rampton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry bichler <barryb(at)voicenet.com> |
i agree with Tom. a couple of years ago a beautiful 182 took off on its own
and slammed into another 182. it was a miracle that nobody was hurt (there
was an 8 year old boy in the plane) while it's pilot was out hand propping
it without having the tail tied down.
barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CCS Computer Services" <ccs(at)ns.southernet.com> |
I recently aquired a firestar that needs some repair. I would like to find
a set of plans so I can safley perform these repairs. It is my
understanding that kolb no longer sells these plans, so if anybody can help
I would appreciate it. Thanks Tom
ccs(at)ns.southernet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar canopies |
On Fri, 25 Oct 1996, Pepper, Hugh wrote:
> These canopy frame rails would extend about 6 inches forward past the
> fiberglass nose-cone, where they would be attached with 2 pivot bolts....
>
> This would allow the whole frame and canopy to swing up instead of to the
> left, with the pivot fulcrum near your feet instead of along the left cage
> frame rail.
>
I just finished and tried a new windscreen similar to the original FS, and
had thought of many variations, but not the idea you have. It may be
good, but I personally would not like the looks of the tube/rails on
the outside of the canopy and extending forward on the outside of the
nose shell. However, maybe this could be done with good looks too.
Another consideration is to rivet the windscreen to the nose shell and
make the entire nose_shell_windscreen pivot underneath on the same tube
that the rudder pedals pivot on. I know of somebody who did this, but
i haven't seen it and so cannot comment further. For this pivoting to
work, he had to cut out the bottom portion of the nose cone aft of the
pivot tube, but this is no big deal. You would also certainly need side
rails to add rigidity and latches to the cage.
On my new canopy, I couldn't figure out a way to easily hinge and pivot
on the left side. This may seem like an easy thing to do, but there are
subtle problems that I'll not bore you with here. My compromise was to
fix the lexan on the left side with only 3 holes in the chromoly frame
tube, and rivet the lexan at about the 10 and 2 oclock positions on the
nose cone. The right side of the canopy "hinges" simply by the lexan
flexing straight on the right side to the 2 o'clock attach point, which
is plenty of room to swing your legs in and out of, and admittedly not
as slick as an F-16 swing canopy. But i do get the peace of mind of
a solid and sure attach to the nose cone, and no bar to look thru on
the top, aft portion of the lexan. My only problem is that i didn't
make the wind screen quite high enf; the wind hits me in the forehead
above 55mph and so I will probably buy another piece ($60 -ouch) to go
a little higher and further back. (Note, i used side tubes on the left
and right side to allow attachment to the cage frame with only 3
holes on left and right sides. I consider minimizing new holes in the
chromoly cage frame a high priority.)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jorge L. Ramos" <JorgeR(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Trailers For Kolb Firestar II |
Within the next month or so I'll be flying my Firestar II for the first
time. It is about time, considering I had a quick build kit and it has
taken me 3 years to get it in flying condition. (But that is a long and
frustrating story. Let's not go there.)
I'm beginning to think of an adequate trailer to not only store the
Firestar but also to take it to different places. I'd appreciate any
thoughts you may have on trailers.
--
__|__
__|__ *---o0o---*
__|__ *---o0o---*
*---o0o---*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Geisler <datche(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Ultralight plans |
I am interested in obtaining the plans for a two seat ultralight, if anyone
knows were to get these plans and maybe the approximate cost I would greatly
appreciate it. I have been looking on the net but all they want to do is
sell me the kit!
THANKS
David Geisler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
I have thought about a kill switch something like a contact inside the
plane where a pin would be inserted opening the contact(s) for dual
ignition. The pin would be attached to a string anchored out side in
the ground or to a brick. It would be very light friction so if the
plane moved forward much it would pull the pin and kill the engine.
Never had a chance to try it thought about it watching my friend hand
prop his N3-Pup. Something like the things they put on some of the
snow mobiles or jet ski's. I have seen the result on runaway
airplanes. Not a pretty sight.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: STARTING
Date: 10/26/96 8:41 AM
i agree with Tom. a couple of years ago a beautiful 182 took off on its own
and slammed into another 182. it was a miracle that nobody was hurt (there
was an 8 year old boy in the plane) while it's pilot was out hand propping
it without having the tail tied down.
barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
I am thinking of how to hand prop my MKIII when it gets done and would
like to be able to do it alone also. I was thinking of putting a kill
switch with some kind of removable key that when pulled out stops the
engine (like personal watercraft have when people fall off). This key
would be attached to my ankle, wrist or what ever is convenient after
the airplane is running and I am in, the key would lock in place with a
twist or latch to keep it in. I agree that with a single place aircraft
it is not always practical to have someone along to start it for you and
might even be more dangerous to try and find a stranger to help you.
>----------
>From: barry bichler[SMTP:barryb(at)voicenet.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Saturday, October 26, 1996 4:56 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: STARTING
>
>i agree with Tom. a couple of years ago a beautiful 182 took off on its own
>and slammed into another 182. it was a miracle that nobody was hurt (there
>was an 8 year old boy in the plane) while it's pilot was out hand propping
>it without having the tail tied down.
>
>barry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailers For Kolb Firestar II |
...(snip)...
>I'm beginning to think of an adequate trailer to not only store the
>Firestar but also to take it to different places. I'd appreciate any
>thoughts you may have on trailers.
I think everyone wants a trailer of some sort for a Kolb. One of the major
values in the ability to fold it up is to trailer it and/or store it in a
small space. After a year or so of paying for hanger rent, you can pretty
much justify the cost of a trailer - whether it is used just for
transportation to and from home or as a semi-permanent hanger.
The basic types in order of cost:
1. The modified common flatbed trailer. This provides basic transportation
but does not protect from the wind or sun. It also serves for many other
uses. A very good value. Some people build enclosures for this type of
trailer.
2. The modified boat trailer - gotta be a welder. Labor intensive to build
and materials are not cheap.
3. The scratch built trailer - ditto above - even more so.
4. The ready made box trailer preferably with ramp back door - pretty
expensive, even if found used. This would be my first choice as I have a
proper towing vehicle that can handle it easily. It also has pretty good
"other" utility and holds it value. If anyone has a line on one of these
(priced reasonably) near Dallas, Tx. let ME know.
There was an article in Kit Planes about a year ago that describes in detail
an excellent enclosed scratch built trailer built specifically for a Kolb.
There was also a wrecked one that is repairable somewhere in Oklahoma (wind
storm damage). I think there was a post about it last spring on this list.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tgr(at)rmii.com (thomas g. rampton) |
| Subject: | Re: FW: STARTING |
OK, say you're alone and you need to get the engine started...
I *still* would only start the engine with at least the tail tied down. I
want to know it's idling properly and not wanting to throttle up for some
reason...
*Then* I would untie the tail with chocks in place, remove the chocks, and
go flying.
My Kolb is still far from done. Maybe there's some way you can run a rope to
something you can reach from the cockpit, perhaps attached with a carabiner
for quickness.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wild(at)nwdsrv.nw.lucent.com (RichWild - 13f01) |
> From firewall.intranet.intrig.com!owner-kolb(at)kcig1.att.att.com Fri Oct 25
> X-Authentication-Warning: firewall.intranet.intrig.com: bin set sender to
owner-kolb using -f
> From: harley(at)gte.net
> Date: Thu, 24 Oct 1996 22:25:26 -0400
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> To: kolb builders
> Subject: STARTING
>
> What are most doing about starting alone by hand? We have the 447
> and no electric starter.Anyone have a starter on a 447?
> I have considered wheel chocks with a rope,but am afraid of prop
> picking up the rope.
> Now the idea is a parking brake lock as i have brakes.
> Any idea's?
> Jeff.
>
Use a pulley and a longer starter cord to route the pull cord handle into the
cockpit. The firestar has a steel ring welded into the cage to hold the handle
after the recoil pulls the cord back. It is just below the square steel bar at
the top of the cage.
This allows you to start the engine while standing in front of the plane.
Rich Wild
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailers For Kolb Firestar II |
On Mon, 28 Oct 1996, Cliff & Carolyn Stripling wrote:
...(snip, snip)...
>
> The basic types in order of cost:
i found flatbeds too expensive and bulky
>
> 1. The modified common flatbed trailer. This provides basic transportation
> but does not protect from the wind or sun. It also serves for many other
> uses. A very good value. Some people build enclosures for this type of
> trailer.
Most flatbeds are dual axle, which is way beefier than you want or need
for a 300-400 lb airplane. If it is modified, well, somebody's gonna
be welding on this option too.
>
> 2. The modified boat trailer - gotta be a welder. Labor intensive to build
> and materials are not cheap.
I choose this route. I found one for $400 compared to $1000 the typical
price for a flatbed trailer. Welding was confined to a couple wknds and
the add-on steel cost me $75. It takes up very little space on my driveway
and trails nicely. I keep the plane in my garage. There is a picture
of my trailer in my web pages if anybody's interested.
>
> 3. The scratch built trailer - ditto above - even more so.
I agree, this is a bad choice usually, although for awhile i could not
find ANY suitable used trailer for less than $900. New steel is
surprisingly expensive.
>
> 4. The ready made box trailer preferably with ramp back door - pretty
> expensive, even if found used. This would be my first choice as I have a
> proper towing vehicle that can handle it easily. It also has pretty good
> "other" utility and holds it value. If anyone has a line on one of these
> (priced reasonably) near Dallas, Tx. let ME know.
This assumes you have a place to keep the BIG box. If you are not in a
residential area, then it is probably a good choice. However, my
neighbors, wife, and even I would not have one on my driveway.
> There was an article in Kit Planes about a year ago that describes in detail
> an excellent enclosed scratch built trailer built specifically for a Kolb.
For me, i wouldn't consider it excellent at all. It was HUGE and cost
$2000. I wanted to minimize both of these factors.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
I completely agree with Ransom, I will be building an open trailer and
may use the modified boat trailer approach. Question: Why do I see the
Kolb on the trailer backwards? (If possible to balance, etc) wouldn't the
Kolb be better off aerodynamically if facing forward? What am I missing?
Does anyone do it this way? Please describe if so.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Misc SlingShot Rambling |
Greetings,
Generally, construction is going well. I've had a few minor setbacks
while Dennis fine-tunes the inventory for the SlingShot kits. No major
problems, and he's been great about sending out the material I need.
The first roll of pictures is on my page. I have some work to do to
improve the quality of my photos it seems. Where is that camera manual?
Spent this past weekend priming the steel parts for kit #1. I enjoyed
it sooooo much, that I spent this morning making out a check to Kolb for
powder coating on my fuselage cage (Happy now Ben?). Suddenly powder
coating seems like a bargain.
I placed my engine order last week for a 503. I believe it will provide
plenty of power for me, especially when coupled to an in-flight
adjustable Ivo prop. It seems like the 503 has a slightly better record
for reliability than the 582 also. Money was the biggest issue though.
I would like to have the plane in the air ASAP. I'm still hopeful that
it will be up by Spring.
I plan to have the tail finished (except for covering) and rigged to the
tube by nov 11th, when I will take 2 weeks off to assemble the wings
(pre-built ribs). I'll then proceed with the covering and maybe
painting for the tail pieces. Hopefully the fuselage will be here by
then, but either way, I'll start covering the wings. This is the plan
anyway.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Return of the Hinges |
Yes, more hinges. When I talked to Dennis today, he said he enjoyed all
the conversation about the hinges. He also said he recently saw a,
shall we say, retired FireStar that used a method not mentioned here in
the past couple of weeks (I know, I didn't believe it either). All you
model airplane pilots will know about wheel collars. These little
devices slip over the axle and use a set screw to lock them in place.
It sounds like the builder made the hinge pin longer than the hinge so
that it sticks out on both sides by maybe 3/16 inch. He then tightened
a collar on each end of the pin. This would keep the pin in place and be
easily removable later. The real beauty is that it's quick, and
requires no drilling. Of course it could still come loose eventually,
but if you tug on each one during your pre-flight, you should be pretty
safe. It looks like the collar size should be 3/32 inch. I think I'll
pick up some collars and give it a try. Please note that Dennis was
just passing along an idea that he saw, that seemed to work well. I
wouldn't take this as his recommendation.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailers For Kolb Firestar II |
>This assumes you have a place to keep the BIG box. If you are not in a
>residential area, then it is probably a good choice. However, my
>neighbors, wife, and even I would not have one on my driveway.
You would have to be rural or have rural friends or keep it at the airport
(you would still have to pay something like a tie down fee). Ditto for me
keeping it at my home as I live in an apartment.
>> There was an article in Kit Planes about a year ago that describes in detail
>> an excellent enclosed scratch built trailer built specifically for a Kolb.
>For me, i wouldn't consider it excellent at all. It was HUGE and cost
>$2000. I wanted to minimize both of these factors.
It is actually only as large as the Kolb is long and wide, but it is tall
(enough to accomodate a 68" 3-blade prop). What made it look so large is
that the roof was made the same height from front to back making it look
like a flying wedge of cheeze - knife point forward. A sloping roof in
front of the prop down to just above the folded tail group would have made
it look much smaller. He built a wing gap seal storage compartment under
the roof in that area, so I guess that is the reason he kept the roof high
the whole way. There is very little wind resistance from the front, but
side wind gusts can be felt. Huge or not, I would like to have one like it.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello all Fellow Kolbers,
I have been following the discussion on the hinges and have found the
different methods interesting. My father and I have opted to use the
cotter pin method. It was said that these little things could catch
and cause binding ect. but if they are bent up around the ends of
the hinge they cannot move and get in the way of the moving hinge. I
like the cotter pin method better than other I have seen such as
screws in the end or model airplane wheel collars (have used these a
lot! :) ). There is no way that a cotter key can come loose where
as a screw or collar can. (I have seen a few collars come off of r/c
planes) That is my feelings on the hinges.
On another note, if the weather permits, the Kolb shall fly. All of
our problems have been worked out and everything has been gone over
and over. I will definately keep you all informed on how things go
ect.
Brandon Kearbey
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III []-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
99% done . /| / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM (Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM)
Jim, You may know jerry scrabeck, he has the red kolb next to my hanger at
wannamingo. He made a trailer from scratch. But if you look at it you
would
say it is a boat trailer. The car or truck pulling it will break the wind
and the
plane will not have much wind on it. I have helped jerry tow his once.
( he was on his way to dodge center to give me a lesson when he had an
engine out.) so I helped him get it back home. it worked very well. and we
used a small
toyota to pull it.
----------
From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Kolb-List: trailers
Date: Monday, October 28, 1996 15:11PM
I completely agree with Ransom, I will be building an open trailer and
may use the modified boat trailer approach. Question: Why do I see the
Kolb on the trailer backwards? (If possible to balance, etc) wouldn't the
Kolb be better off aerodynamically if facing forward? What am I missing?
Does anyone do it this way? Please describe if so.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Mon, 28 Oct 1996, Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
> I completely agree with Ransom, I will be building an open trailer and
> may use the modified boat trailer approach. Question: Why do I see the
> Kolb on the trailer backwards? (If possible to balance, etc) wouldn't the
> Kolb be better off aerodynamically if facing forward? What am I missing?
> Does anyone do it this way? Please describe if so.
> Thanks!
Yep, i know this seems strange, and I gnawed on it for a good long time
before I bought into this (conventional) way of doing it myself. Here's
my $.03:
1. CG: you want the 300 lbs of airplane cg, which is slightly aft of
the engine in a folded empty Kolb, to be close to the axle of the
trailer. The plane on frontwards seems nice aerodynamically (maybe
not, see #2 below), but but you'd have to resort to a mechanical
crank post for the higher weight on the trailer tongue. As well,
the high tongue weight (300 lbs?) would be carried by the car.
big tow vehicle anyway. But, my loaded trailer tongue weight is
only ~40 lbs and i'd feel comfortable trailering short distances in
a small car.
2. Aerodynamics (on the highway): Yes, you obviously must do something
substantial to keep the wings in the folded position. But that
isn't too difficult. The aerodynamic advantage of pulling the plane
backwards is that the center of effort of crosswind loads on the
folded wings is *forward* of the trailer axle. In trailering, having
the bulk of CG or crosswind loads behind the axle is very bad news.
3. A +- minor point: It is easier to pull the main gear up 6' ramps to
their trailer pads instead of pushing up 6' ramps and continuing
down 14' tracks to the front of the trailer if it were trailered
frontwards.
That's what i came to anyway. your opinion/milage may vary.
One more thing about open trailering... don't try to protect the plane
by pulling a tarp over it. The tarp will quickly chafe away the Stits.
And, you will have to pad a section of prop blade as it windmill forces
push it down onto the aileron tube on one side -- even at 25 mph.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New Kolb Email Address |
Please note this new Email address for Technical Support from Kolb Aircraft:
Flykolb(at)epix.net
If you have questions during the weekend, youll probably get a faster
response when sent to this new address.
If you are in a hurry for a quick answer, send your question to both
addresses.
The existing address DLSOUDER(at)aol.com can still be used as well for a while
yet, eventually it will be discontinued.
Dennis Souder
President, Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pepper, Hugh" <hpepper(at)VFB10MS.VF.LMCO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar canopies |
Ben,
Thanks for the response... Some good points and ideas.
>
>On Fri, 25 Oct 1996, I wrote:
>> These canopy frame rails would extend about 6 inches forward past the
>> fiberglass nose-cone, where they would be attached with 2 pivot bolts....
>>
>> This would allow the whole frame and canopy to swing up instead of to the
>> left, with the pivot fulcrum near your feet instead of along the left
cage
>> frame rail.
>>
>I just finished and tried a new windscreen similar to the original FS, and
>had thought of many variations, but not the idea you have. It may be
>good, but I personally would not like the looks of the tube/rails on
>the outside of the canopy and extending forward on the outside of the
>nose shell. However, maybe this could be done with good looks too.
Since this is S.E Pennsylvania, and the weather can get a bit "cool" here...
I was more concerned with wind protection and warmth, than with asthetics,
and since it would be a fully enclosed canopy for the winter only, the
shorter
windscreen would be placed back in service during warmer weather... How else
can I take those great photographs??!! certainly not through the lexan..!!
>Another consideration is to rivet the windscreen to the nose shell and
>make the entire nose_shell_windscreen pivot underneath on the same tube
>that the rudder pedals pivot on. I know of somebody who did this, but
>i haven't seen it and so cannot comment further. For this pivoting to
>work, he had to cut out the bottom portion of the nose cone aft of the
>pivot tube, but this is no big deal. You would also certainly need side
>rails to add rigidity and latches to the cage.
I think that cutting out part of the fiberglass nosecone would make it a bit
draftier
at the rudder pedal area, and cold feet would be a problem with trying to
seal out the wind after the modification, but it would indeed look really
great,
with the whole nose cone swinging up/down with the canopy.
>
>On my new canopy, I couldn't figure out a way to easily hinge and pivot
>on the left side. This may seem like an easy thing to do, but there are
>subtle problems that I'll not bore you with here. My compromise was to
>fix the lexan on the left side with only 3 holes in the chromoly frame
I have heard that piano type hinges can be a bit of a problem here, and
(Oh no... not more hinge talk... should we crimp the ends of this higne
too!)
also I have had suggestions that a hinge is not needed here, as the lexan
can just be attached here, and curve easily around the nose cone section
when closed.
>
>tube, and rivet the lexan at about the 10 and 2 oclock positions on the
>nose cone. The right side of the canopy "hinges" simply by the lexan
>flexing straight on the right side to the 2 o'clock attach point, which
>is plenty of room to swing your legs in and out of, and admittedly not
>as slick as an F-16 swing canopy. But i do get the peace of mind of
Yeah I think that the F-16 swing canopy would be really slick as well as
functional... I think that if the windshield goes up over my head, that the
better aerodynamics would also give better speeds, and gas consumption
figures as well (not that 2 gph is bad mind you)
>
>a solid and sure attach to the nose cone, and no bar to look thru on
>the top, aft portion of the lexan. My only problem is that i didn't
>make the wind screen quite high enf; the wind hits me in the forehead
>above 55mph and so I will probably buy another piece ($60 -ouch) to go
How large a piece did you get first.. and where did you purchase it .
>a little higher and further back. (Note, i used side tubes on the left
>and right side to allow attachment to the cage frame with only 3
>holes on left and right sides. I consider minimizing new holes in the
>chromoly cage frame a high priority.)
I also think that it is a bad idea to be drilling holes in the cage
members... I was
thinking of a clamp type system where the clamps are attached around the
tubes,
NOT with holes drilled "through" the tubes.. (warning.. ascii picture of
clamp
to follow!!!)
Like this: (side view)
front view:
| | <-screw hole drilled in here ---------
| |_
| O |
| \
|++++|
\___/
| |
---------
ah the joys of cold weather flying!!!!
Hugh M. Pepper
pepper(at)mds.lmco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi all,
All the info on starting has been great,thanks. It is and should be
a big concern. I like being in it the best,so, I installed a starter.
After all the weight and balance was done the Firefly weighed
267lb. some 12lb over.
NOW this was with BRAKES, FULL WINDSCREEN, 2 COATS POLYSPRAY,
BIGGER WHEELS , FULL PANEL, but it looks nice! 447.
To build under 254lb would be no problem.
It still hasent been flown yet,shooting for this weekend depending
on POP and the weather. Its his baby ha.!
Myself I'm getting LOTS of stick time almost every day, going for the
instructor rateing and am going to get 2 place for me. Ha!
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
| Subject: | Re: Trailers For Kolb Firestar II |
JorgeR(at)ix.netcom.com (internet!ix.netcom.com!JorgeR)
I know of a person who put a hitch on the tail of his twinstar and pulled it
on
it's own wheels. I don't recommend this but I think it used to be one of
the selling
points of the Kolb. I got my Kolb from an ex-dealer and that's what he
said.
Mark Hansen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax 618 for Sale |
Posting this for a friend. He has a brand new Rotax 618 with all the
trimmings and has decided instead to install a Subaru in his Genesis.
Included with engine is a Grand Rapids EIS unit with all the senders.
Exhaust system has specialty coating - satin silver. Price $6,000 firm.
Phone (334) 347-1669; email: rcguinn(at)snowhill.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello all,
Well, this morning N52BK flew today. Our Mark III flew wonderfully.
I did not get to see it fly because I had to go to school. My dad
flew the plane and he said it flew like a dream. He said it was rock
solid, stable, responsive, lands well. He loved how it flew. He did
a stall series and experimented with the flaps, practiced landing
ect. After at least 400 hours and about 6 months, it is done. Our
Mark III has a 582 on it, comm radio (with DME tray so we can take
the DME out of the 310 if we want to), electric start, nav lights,
strobe, "Hot Box". It also has an inflight adjustable pitch prop
but we aren't sure of how effective it is until we can fly it some
more.
I was extremely happy to hear of how well it flew after all the work
that my father and I have put into it. I hope to get many years of
flying out of it. I hope to get some better pictures of it on my
page and will let you know when I do. Unfortunately, my parents are
going on vacation so the bird will collect dust for a week and a half
until they get back.
Happy Building and Flying,
Brandon Kearbey
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Almost . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
Flying / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Jones <geraldj(at)csufresno.edu> |
Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> I completely agree with Ransom, I will be building an open trailer and
> may use the modified boat trailer approach. Question: Why do I see the
> Kolb on the trailer backwards? (If possible to balance, etc) wouldn't the
> Kolb be better off aerodynamically if facing forward? What am I missing?
> Does anyone do it this way? Please describe if so.
> Thanks!
Jim,
The airplane is carried tail-first on the trailer to keep weight on the
trailer tongue for trailer stability purposes. Also, if you are
modifying a boat trailer, its widest part will be over the wheels where
the fuselage is located. I built a similar trailer and carry my Avid
that way. When I build a Kolb, I will use the same trailer.
By the way, by using a rig such as you are considering you will be able
to get the kolb on the trailer in your garage. You aren't likely to be
able to do that if you build an enclosed rig---they are just too big.
Happy Flying,
Jerry
Good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
harley(at)gte.net wrote:
>
> bkearbey wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > Well, this morning N52BK flew today. Our Mark III flew wonderfully.
>
> *** Congrads are in order!! Well done. I suppose you are next! ***
> Jeff here, If you have read our progress,our time has come.
> Tomarrow morn I'll go get a Big truck ,good to have friends, and take
> our FireFly to the airport as the hanger's been waiting some time,not
> to mention my garage!
> Pop is ready. He feels good, did time duel in the Beaver and wants to
> do it. BOY old time conven. pilots are HARD HEADED! I heard I can fly
> it,
> I had a Pitts. POP was a Pitts jocky.
> Then to here, put the %&*@$)$ nose down,now way. Well lots of
> ballooning
> at first!!
> Not to brag but it realy took POP and I less than two months,I think
> Dennis will confir. Great Kit , Good Support.I think we caught the by
> suprise!
> Well long winded, fly tomarrow,GOD bless all.
> Jeff
> FireFly-= navcom-brakes-full enclosuer-electric start-full inst.-447
> some 28 lb over. owell,
> Jeff.
> PS-- I'm proud to say I'm comeing up on getting my teaching
> ticket.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Bentley" <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Mounting Electric Controls on Mark III |
I'm now at the point in my Mark III where I need to mount the mag
switch, master switch, and a few other buttons (remote buttons for my
Grand Rapids EIS). I don't want to mount them on the instrument panel
as that can't be reached in flight with the seat belts on. It has
been suggested that they be mounted on the floorboard right in front
of the seat, between the pilots legs or near the trim lever. Another
suggestion is overhead. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
I also haven't purchased the master switch or strobe switch yet. Any
suggestions here?
BTW, I mounted my Kuntzleman Electronics hot box and strobe box, and
the voltage regulator for my 912, behind the pilot's seat on a piece
of aluminum, with tubing clamps. This seemed to work well, and I can
give more information to anyone who wants it. I've been extremely
lucky to work with Dick Kuntzleman and Bill Martin (an expert from the
Kolb factory), so I feel I have had very good advice (and have needed
it, since I have little experience in this kind of thing.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: more hinge questions |
I used cotter pins. I think it is much more satisfactory b/c it is a real
bitch to try to remove a aileron or flap if you punch a hole in it and want
to patch the fabric. Just be sure to use the smallest possible cotter pins
because they can bind when the control surface moves.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
I chose to mount most of the switches on a 2" x 8" pc of 1/8" aluminum,
which I will attach to the near-vertical part of the floor pan, right under
the control stick. I want to leave the area under each seated person's legs
available for some small elastic cargo nets for the Kolb paperwork and a few
personal items.
The one thing I will NOT mount on the floor pan is the ignition switch. I
can imagine it being accidently switched off if located down there. I have
fashioned a small aluminum piece to attach the keyed ignition switch to and
it is mounted right next to the flap control lever, on the pilot's side. This
is as high as possible, and located next to the choke lever. I am confident
it cannot be bumped accidently in this location.
________________________________________________________________________________
Where can I buy a video on Stits fabric covering process?
Type to you later
Guillermo Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
.____|____.
\(*)/
o/ \o
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun 1994 ? |
All,
I believe it was Sun-N-Fun 94 where I saw a Kolb Mark III (I think) that
prefectly fit my idea of the plane I want to build. What set it apart
was the extended landing gear and over sized tires. Anybody know who's
plane this might have been or where I might find a picture of it? It
was at the Kolb booth at the ultralight field.
Thanx for any help you can provide.
Bob Brocious
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kw012393(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Plexiglass windscreen |
A canvas covering came loose and flapped around against the plexiglass
windscreen on my Kolb Firestar resulting in scratches and some "foggy areas"
caused by minute abrasions in the plexiglas.
Question: do you know of a product I can use to restore the windscreen
(almost a full enclosure) to a state of optical clarity?
Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
Thanks!
-K.W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Kolb Covering Video Tape] |
Here's the original message that Dennis posted about the video. I
bought one but I haven't watched it yet.
Rusty
DLSOUDER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> To Kolb Builders
>
> A Kolb Aircraft fabric covering video tape ia now available! In this
> video, we cover a Kolb Firestar II . The construction of the Firefly, Mark
> III, Firestar I and II and the Slingshot are so similar that we feel the one
> video tape will work for all the Kolb Aircraft.
>
> This video tape should answer most of your painting, priming and fabric
> covering questions!
>
> The tape sales for $19.95 + $4.00 S&H
>
> The tape is produced and sold by:
>
> R&R Aircraft Supply Co.
> 2716 E. US 12
> Niles, Mi. 49120
> Phone (616) 683-2594
> Fax (616) 684-2369
>
> -----------------------
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:50:06 -0400
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Covering Video Tape
To Kolb Builders
A Kolb Aircraft fabric covering video tape ia now available! In this
video, we cover a Kolb Firestar II . The construction of the Firefly, Mark
III, Firestar I and II and the Slingshot are so similar that we feel the one
video tape will work for all the Kolb Aircraft.
This video tape should answer most of your painting, priming and fabric
covering questions!
The tape sales for $19.95 + $4.00 S&H
The tape is produced and sold by:
R&R Aircraft Supply Co.
2716 E. US 12
Niles, Mi. 49120
Phone (616) 683-2594
Fax (616) 684-2369
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglass windscreen |
OUCH! There's a kit which is sold by aircraft supply companies like
Aircraft Spruce East 1-800-831-2949 for scratch removal and
restoration. It takes a bit of elbow grease but it works. 80 sq ft
kit runs around $28, 100 sq ft $50. Pricing structure seems strange,
little time and work. ACS East is a better operation than West, go
there if your mid or East part of US. East was formerly Alexander
Aircraft, an excellent operation, sure miss them.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Plexiglass windscreen
Date: 10/31/96 3:08 PM
A canvas covering came loose and flapped around against the plexiglass
windscreen on my Kolb Firestar resulting in scratches and some "foggy areas"
caused by minute abrasions in the plexiglas.
Question: do you know of a product I can use to restore the windscreen
(almost a full enclosure) to a state of optical clarity?
Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
Thanks!
-K.W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
| Subject: | Re: Covering video? |
>
>Where can I buy a video on Stits fabric covering process?
>
You can get one from Stits (or is it Poly-Fiber?) in which they cover
a Piper Cub, but if you're thinking of covering a Kolb, I would recommend
buying Kolb's covering video. Dennis just announced its existance not too
long ago, and a few people on the list who bought it have said that its very
good.
-Jon-
.------------------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger: DoD# 1038, EAA #518210, USUA# A46209, NMA# 117376, KotWitDoDFAQ
|
| stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu && http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ |
| '96 Dakota SLT V-8 Club Cab, '91 FZR600R /* Just another mangy hacker */
|
`------------------------------------------------------------------------------'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
| Subject: | Re: Covering video? |
>
>Where can I buy a video on Stits fabric covering process?
>
You can buy one from Stits (or is it Poly-Fiber?) in which they cover a
Piper Cub, but if you're planning on covering a Kolb, I would recommend
Kolb's covering video. Dennis just announced its existance not too long
ago, and a few people on this list who have it have said that its very good.
-Jon-
.------------------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger: DoD# 1038, EAA #518210, USUA# A46209, NMA# 117376, KotWitDoDFAQ
|
| stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu && http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ |
| '96 Dakota SLT V-8 Club Cab, '91 FZR600R /* Just another mangy hacker */
|
`------------------------------------------------------------------------------'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Covering video? |
Same source as the request for the covering tape. They supply the covering kits
for Kolb and carry both tapes. You get the Stits tape with the covering kit,
the other is optional. The optional tape covers covering an actual Kolb and
should answer most of your painting, priming and fabric > covering questions!
>
> The tape sales for $19.95 + $4.00 S&H >
> The tape is produced and sold by: >
> R&R Aircraft Supply Co. >
2716 E. US 12
> Niles, Mi. 49120
> Phone (616) 683-2594 >
Fax (616) 684-2369
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Covering video?
Date: 10/31/96 5:24 PM
>
>Where can I buy a video on Stits fabric covering process? >
You can get one from Stits (or is it Poly-Fiber?) in which they cover
a Piper Cub, but if you're thinking of covering a Kolb, I would recommend
buying Kolb's covering video. Dennis just announced its existance not too
long ago, and a few people on the list who bought it have said that its very
good.
-Jon-
.------------------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger: DoD# 1038, EAA #518210, USUA# A46209, NMA# 117376, KotWitDoDFAQ
|
| stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu && http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ |
| '96 Dakota SLT V-8 Club Cab, '91 FZR600R /* Just another mangy hacker */
|
`------------------------------------------------------------------------------'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
>>
>> I completely agree with Ransom, I will be building an open trailer and
>> may use the modified boat trailer approach. Question: Why do I see the
>> Kolb on the trailer backwards? (If possible to balance, etc) wouldn't the
>> Kolb be better off aerodynamically if facing forward? What am I missing?
>> Does anyone do it this way? Please describe if so.
>> Thanks!
>
>
>Jim,
>
>The airplane is carried tail-first on the trailer to keep weight on the
>trailer tongue for trailer stability purposes. Also, if you are
I don't know this for sure, but isn't the tail the lightest
part of the aircraft? I would think that the weight would be
quite a bit heavier on the wheels than it would on the tail/tailwheel.
>modifying a boat trailer, its widest part will be over the wheels where
>the fuselage is located. I built a similar trailer and carry my Avid
>that way. When I build a Kolb, I will use the same trailer.
Yep... I think that's the main reason for loading tail first onto a
converted boat trailer, besides ease of loading/unloading...
>
>By the way, by using a rig such as you are considering you will be able
>to get the kolb on the trailer in your garage. You aren't likely to be
>able to do that if you build an enclosed rig---they are just too big.
>
True, but when you have an enclosed trailer, you no longer need to
keep the plane in the garage, since you can just let it sit outside,
protected by the trailer itself...
The cost of a converted boat trailer type hauler is very attractive,
but my main concerns are that you are limited as to your highway speeds,
and I would be very worried about a stone getting kicked up by a
car and going through the fabric, dinging the prop, etc...
-Jon-
.------------------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger: DoD# 1038, EAA #518210, USUA# A46209, NMA# 117376, KotWitDoDFAQ
|
| stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu && http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ |
| '96 Dakota SLT V-8 Club Cab, '91 FZR600R /* Just another mangy hacker */
|
`------------------------------------------------------------------------------'
________________________________________________________________________________
Jeff here,
Today was the day for us. We had our FireFly to the airport about 10:30
and ready 1hr later.
POP was to taxie for a while as the wind was 10-12 and puffy.
Well that lasted about 15min and he was out of sight.
When pop came down he looked like a jackass eatin burdocks,grinning
from ear to ear. Well it flies better than advertized,sort of like
a Piper Cub. perfict trim to.
BIG QUESTION is the landing gear "chuckles" if you will. Sort of snaps
back and forth.
Anyone had this?
I think I got some toe in (you can see it) and that is the problem.
This is on pavement as we don't have access to grass.
Please reply asap. must fix in morn.
This one may only come down for gas, weather, darkness as it is great!!
Best of the 4 I have flown so far.
Jeff Fla.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Bentley" <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun-N-Fun 1994 ? |
I believe you'll find that exact plane on page 33 of October 1996
"Sport Aviation" magazine. At any rate, I believe the picture is of
the factory Mark III, and I think Dan is flying it.
There are also pictures on the internet, but I don't have the URL.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Sun-N-Fun 1994 ?
Date: 10/31/96 2:14 PM
All,
I believe it was Sun-N-Fun 94 where I saw a Kolb Mark III (I think) that
prefectly fit my idea of the plane I want to build. What set it apart
was the extended landing gear and over sized tires. Anybody know who's
plane this might have been or where I might find a picture of it? It
was at the Kolb booth at the ultralight field.
Thanx for any help you can provide.
Bob Brocious
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglass windscreen |
There's a line of products called Meguiar's Mirror Glaze. These are
available for many applications and come by number. Number 17 is called
clear plastic cleaner, and is used to remove fine scratches. Number 10
is used for final polishing. It restores optical clarity and leaves the
surface static free. I bought these from the local Mazda dealer to use
on our old Miata rear window. It was quite an amazing improvement.
Both of these specifically list aircraft uses and conform to MIL Specs
listed on the containers. You can probably find them many places but at
least I know Mazda has them. They were each about $7 for 8oz. bottles.
No matter what product you decide to try, I would test a scrap piece
before touching my windscreen. Good luck.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
| Subject: | Kolb: My web site |
A short note that I have exposed myself on the web.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
I hope to have update info about my SlingShot there as
I progress with the project. Later
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
________________________________________________________________________________
kolb(at)hpmail2.ftw.mot.com, suprtrdr(at)juno.com, fnxjk(at)wt.net,
sripple(at)juno.com, wega(at)ios.com, tomwb8mhj(at)juno.com, k9vqrs(at)juno.com,
wockner(at)ucsu.colorado.edu, rwockner(at)netcom.com, kwoods(at)juno.com
| From: | clarkww9rwx(at)juno.com (clark m wockner) |
_-. .-_
_..-'( )`-.._
./'. '||\\. (\_/) .//||` .`\.
./'.|'.'||||\\|.. )*.*( ..|//||||`.`|.`\.
./'..|'.|| |||||\``````` " '''''''/||||| ||.`|..`\.
./'.||'.|||| ||||||||||||. .|||||||||||| ||||.`||.`\.
/'|||'.|||||| ||||||||||||{ }|||||||||||| ||||||.`|||`\
'.|||'.||||||| ||||||||||||{ }|||||||||||| |||||||.`|||.`
'.||| ||||||||| |/' ``\||/` '\||/'' `\| ||||||||| |||.`
|/' \./' `\./ |/\ /\| \./' `\./ `\|
V V V }' `\ /' `{ V V V
` ` ` U ' '
Happy Halloween!
CLARK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
harley(at)gte.net wrote:
>
> Jeff here,
> Today was the day for us. We had our FireFly to the airport about 10:30
> and ready 1hr later.
> POP was to taxie for a while as the wind was 10-12 and puffy.
> Well that lasted about 15min and he was out of sight.
> When pop came down he looked like a jackass eatin burdocks,grinning
> from ear to ear. Well it flies better than advertized,sort of like
> a Piper Cub. perfict trim to.
> BIG QUESTION is the landing gear "chuckles" if you will. Sort of snaps
> back and forth.
> Anyone had this?
> I think I got some toe in (you can see it) and that is the problem.
> This is on pavement as we don't have access to grass.
> Please reply asap. must fix in morn.
> This one may only come down for gas, weather, darkness as it is great!!
> Best of the 4 i have flown so far.
> Jeff Fla.
harley(at)gte.net wrote:
>
> Jeff here,
> Today was the day for us. We had our FireFly to the airport about 10:30
> and ready 1hr later.
> POP was to taxie for a while as the wind was 10-12 and puffy.
> Well that lasted about 15min and he was out of sight.
> When pop came down he looked like a jackass eatin burdocks,grinning
> from ear to ear. Well it flies better than advertized,sort of like
> a Piper Cub. perfict trim to.
> BIG QUESTION is the landing gear "chuckles" if you will. Sort of snaps
> back and forth.
> Anyone had this?
> I think I got some toe in (you can see it) and that is the problem.
> This is on pavement as we don't have access to grass.
> Please reply asap. must fix in morn.
> This one may only come down for gas, weather, darkness as it is great!!
> Best of the 4 i have flown so far.
> Jeff Fla.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: first flight |
harley(at)gte.net wrote:
>
> Jeff here,
> Today was the day for us. We had our FireFly to the airport about 10:30
> and ready 1hr later.
> POP was to taxie for a while as the wind was 10-12 and puffy.
> Well that lasted about 15min and he was out of sight.
> When pop came down he looked like a jackass eatin burdocks,grinning
> from ear to ear. Well it flies better than advertized,sort of like
> a Piper Cub. perfict trim to.
> BIG QUESTION is the landing gear "chuckles" if you will. Sort of snaps
> back and forth.
> Anyone had this?
> I think I got some toe in (you can see it) and that is the problem.
> This is on pavement as we don't have access to grass.
> Please reply asap. must fix in morn.
> This one may only come down for gas, weather, darkness as it is great!!
> Best of the 4 i have flown so far.
> Jeff Fla.
harley(at)gte.net wrote:
>
> Jeff here,
> Today was the day for us. We had our FireFly to the airport about 10:30
> and ready 1hr later.
> POP was to taxie for a while as the wind was 10-12 and puffy.
> Well that lasted about 15min and he was out of sight.
> When pop came down he looked like a jackass eatin burdocks,grinning
> from ear to ear. Well it flies better than advertized,sort of like
> a Piper Cub. perfect trim to.
> BIG QUESTION is the landing gear "chuckles" if you will. Sort of snaps
> back and forth.
> Anyone had this?
> I think I got some toe in (you can see it) and that is the problem.
> This is on pavement as we don't have access to grass.
> Please reply asap. must fix in morn.
> This one may only come down for gas, weather, darkness as it is great!!
> Best of the 4 i have flown so far.
> Jeff Fla.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
To all...
Not much to report except that I have finished the wing gap seal and am now
down to the last 20 some odd items on a punch list to take care of. My
advice to everyone is to finish the gap seal before mounting the engine and
covering the wings or square area of the fuselage. It can be done (I did
it) but finishing the rear of the seal without access is not as easy after
covering and limiting access.
I am going to try to get Geo. to help me with running in the Rotax soon. I
still need to get up in the Cub for a few more hours, but we have been out
of town and the weather has not been very co-operative lately. I mailed the
last of the paperwork to the Ft.Worth district office of the FAA including
the weight and balance yesterday. I hope to get it inspected pretty soon.
After raising the tail to approx. 9 degrees main wing angle of attack as per
plans, my arms were (the plans say they probably differ a little with each
plane)...
Datum to Tail Wheel 202" (my boom was shortened by 4")
Datum to Main Wheels 8.5"
Datum to Pilot (belly button) -3.75"
Datum to Fuel Tanks 21"
Datum to Nose Cone Storage -43"
Datum to Knee Storage -18"
Datum to Rear Storage 33"
Here are my "rather fat" weights: 207 (left main) 205 (right main) 66
(tail) for a grand total of 478 lbs. According to what Kolb says, the
average is 430 more or less, but I modified here and there almost always
adding weight and the paint job is pretty heavy. My empty CG was 35.2".
With 220 lb. pilot & 220 lb. passenger and 2 gallons of fuel and 2 lbs of
storage in the forward compartments, my most forward CG was 16.5" (well
within limits).
With 160 lb pilot, solo, 10 gallons of fuel, 30 lbs of ballast in the nose
and 10 lbs (maximum solo) in rear storage compartment, my most rearward CG
was 22.4" (right at the rear limit).
Therefore, I must carry 20 lbs. minimum up to 30 lbs. maximum of ballast in
the nose cone when I am flying solo - depending on fuel load and rear
storage (maximum 10 lbs solo).
The maximum loading is 1000 lbs. including 440 lbs. (pilot & passenger), 22
lbs. storage (2 lbs. up front in nose cone and under knee, and either 10
lbs. (max solo) or 20 lbs. (max dual) in the back, 60 lbs. fuel plus empty
weight of 478 lbs. Actually, I will probably never be loaded above 900 lbs.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rgbsr(at)aimnet.com (Ron Blaylock) |
| Subject: | RE: Plexiglass windscreen |
Check with almost any airport shop that sells supplies. There is a
very good kit that will restore your canopy. We used an identical kit
while in the Navy to keep the jet canopies nice and clear. In fact,
except for the boxing, the kit was manufactured by the same company.
I don't remember the name but it works like a charm.
Ron B
>A canvas covering came loose and flapped around against the plexiglass
>windscreen on my Kolb Firestar resulting in scratches and some "foggy areas"
>caused by minute abrasions in the plexiglas.
>
>Question: do you know of a product I can use to restore the windscreen
>(almost a full enclosure) to a state of optical clarity?
>
>Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
>
>Thanks!
>
>-K.W.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kw012393(at)one.net |
| Subject: | thanks to the Kolb List! |
Thanks to everyone who has responded to my query regarding ways to clear a
scratched plexiglass windscreen. I've gotten some great suggestions.
Happy landings to one and all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca |
| Subject: | wing fitting vibration |
I have considerable buzzing noises from my wing pins from 5500 rpm to 6000 rpm.
any suggestions on a fix?
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: thanks to the Kolb List! |
I was looking through a Super Flite catalog I just got and seen some
scratch removal kits there for around $20. Super Flite is at
1-800-323-0611.
If you've scratched the surface to any extent or fogged it like
indicated, glazing cleaner probably will not take care of that. Sorry
to say old boy but it looks like you'll have to resort to using the
polishing process with lots of elbow grease. The glazing solution is
good for cleaning and reducing micro scratches as a general window
cleaner. We use it on our certified airplane once in a while but most
of the time use plain old Pledge spray on furniture/dusting wax that
comes in the spray can. Use only the plain model, not that with lemon
or other additives. Works great for us. We also coat the leading
edge of the wings with it. Done regularly, the smashed bugs wash of
easily.
Good luck.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: thanks to the Kolb List!
Date: 11/1/96 10:16 AM
Thanks to everyone who has responded to my query regarding ways to clear a
scratched plexiglass windscreen. I've gotten some great suggestions.
Happy landings to one and all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Wing fitting viberations on a mark 111 |
I have a Mark 111 with 170 hours on it. It has a 582 with a 3-1 C drive.
An excessive buzzing noise has occured from its initial flight up to
present. The main wing pins that attach the main spar to the fusalage have
enlarged holes from the excessive viberation that occures between 5500 rpm
and 6000 rpm. I have considered installing 3/8 inch pins to eliminate the
play between the original 5/16" pins and their holes. I feel this would be
only a temporary fix as they will also wear and further enlarg the pin
holes. Has anyone had this problem and if so how did you fix it? I live in
east central Saskatcewan, Canada. I fly my airplane 12 months a year.
It has penatration snow skis, cabin heat, carb heat an much larger gas tanks.
Kim Steiner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailers For Kolb Firestar II |
<< I know of a person who put a hitch on the tail of his twinstar and pulled
it
on
it's own wheels. I don't recommend this but I think it used to be one of
the selling
points of the Kolb. I got my Kolb from an ex-dealer and that's what he
said.
>>
I want to make this clear: Kolb has never recommended that any of its
aircraft be towed on its own gear. Do not tow a Kolb on its own gear. If
you want to tow a Kolb aircraft, you must use a trailer. The trailer may be
a very simple lightweight one, but you must use a trailer.
Dennis Souder
President, Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grabski <grabski(at)avanticorp.com> |
Hello All,
I've never owned an UL but I've been interested in them for
awhile now. I've flown with an instructor once in a
Challenger. I am interested in the Kolb's and could use some
advice.
1) Is it feasible to store a Kolb UL in a trailer at home?
2) Is it possible to trailer the UL to any small airport
without a control tower, prepare it for flight, fly,
break it down, and trailer it home? Would this be
too much of a hassle?
3) Is there anyway to get official flight instruction in
a Kolb?
4) I'm concerned about the build times and the space required
to build it. Is it possible to order preassembled kits?
I can afford an UL but the hanger space in this area
(Raleigh, NC) is limited and expensive. I'm also not
the most mechanically inclined so the build time on
the Kolb's is a bit intimidating.
Any help would be appreciated,
Mark Grabski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglass NOT |
> There's a line of products called Meguiar's Mirror Glaze. These are
> available for many applications and come by number. Number 17 is called
> clear plastic cleaner, and is used to remove fine scratches. Number 10
> -Rusty
I'm gonna be a little picky here. The original question was posed about
'plexiglass'. But the standard Kolb (and other?) windscreen is made
out of Lexan. Plexiglass is a brand name of Acrylic Plastic, and Lexan
is a brand name for Polycarbonate plastic.
I was gonna ask for clarification about which one can be re-finished by
Meguiars. But instead, I called a plastics distributor near me, and
asked him. He said that Meguiars can be used on either, and reiterated
the 17 and 10 recommendations, as from Rusty. He also advised that
there is an abrasion resistant version of lexan available, and that
Meguiar's would pretty much wreck it. Thus, the other good advice from
somebody to try on a small patch first. Lastly, I'll just assume that
everybody is using polycarbonate, as "plexiglass" (acrylic) is not
nearly as tough and is generally discouraged for use as windscreens on
almost everything.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
>Hello All,
>I've never owned an UL but I've been interested in them for
>awhile now. I've flown with an instructor once in a
>Challenger. I am interested in the Kolb's and could use some
>advice.
>
>1) Is it feasible to store a Kolb UL in a trailer at home?
>
>2) Is it possible to trailer the UL to any small airport
> without a control tower, prepare it for flight, fly,
> break it down, and trailer it home? Would this be
> too much of a hassle?
I don't actually have any experience with this (yet), but that's
what I'm counting on... I've heard of people doing this, and it
certainally is possible. It is just a matter of wether your time
is worth more or less than the cost of hangar space. A minus
of renting hangar space (besides the cost) is that I'd worry about
some dummy going in there and doing something stupid, or someone
letting their kids use my ultralight as a jungle gym... A minus
of the trailer (besides the time aspect) is that I would immagine
that every time you fold, unfold, load it, unload it, etc. you
increase the possibility that you will screw up and damage the
aircraft...
I'm going to do the trailer method until I can build a hangar
and put a strip in at home.
>
>3) Is there anyway to get official flight instruction in
> a Kolb?
Absolutely! There are a GA instructors as well as ultralight
instructors using Kolb's as a training vehicle. If you like,
you can recieve training right at Kolb, from their CFI. (Call
Kolb and ask for Dan)
>
>4) I'm concerned about the build times and the space required
> to build it. Is it possible to order preassembled kits?
Apparently people have built them faster, but 400 hours
seems to be a good estimate. Kolb does offer a preassembled wing rib
option ($150?) as well as a "quick build" option (about $2,000), which
is supposed to save you about 200 hours, I believe. There is also the
used market. You can't buy a preassembled kit from Kolb directly.
However... Kolb will put you in touch with people who will build your
aircraft for you. There is also a company called 98 Manufacturing (owned
by Dennis Souder) that has a lot of experience with Kolb building/repair.
I'm certain that you could find a professional to build your Kolb. (I
have no idea what they charge though.)
I hope this helps; good luck!! I have yet to speak with (or even hear
about) an unsatisfied Kolb customer; its been said that you can't go wrong
with a Kolb. :)
-Jon-
.------------------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger: DoD# 1038, EAA #518210, USUA# A46209, NMA# 117376, KotWitDoDFAQ
|
| stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu && http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ |
| '96 Dakota SLT V-8 Club Cab, '91 FZR600R /* Just another mangy hacker */
|
`------------------------------------------------------------------------------'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
| Subject: | RE: wing fitting vibration |
steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca (internet!spreda.sk.ca!steiner)
Have you though of clear silicone caulk. It should stop the buzzing
But I don't think it would work well if you fold it up very often.
Mark Hansen
----------
From: internet!spreda.sk.ca!steiner
Subject: Kolb-List: wing fitting vibration
Date: Friday, November 01, 1996 12:36PM
I have considerable buzzing noises from my wing pins from 5500 rpm to 6000
rpm.
any suggestions on a fix?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
--
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek
and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be
an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message
was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon-
(stei0302)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
--
________________________________________________________________________________
stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger)
| From: | drenter(at)upanet.cc.uleth.ca (Diane Renter) |
| Subject: | Re: Re[2]: Covering video? |
At 05:26 PM 10/31/96 cst, jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
>Same source as the request for the covering tape. They supply the covering
kits
>for Kolb and carry both tapes. You get the Stits tape with the covering kit,
>the other is optional. The optional tape covers covering an actual Kolb and
>should answer most of your painting, priming and fabric > covering questions!
>>
>> The tape sales for $19.95 + $4.00 S&H >
>> The tape is produced and sold by: >
>> R&R Aircraft Supply Co. >
> 2716 E. US 12
>> Niles, Mi. 49120
>> Phone (616) 683-2594 >
> Fax (616) 684-2369
>
>
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
>Subject: Re: Covering video?
>Author: stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) at MAILGATE
>Date: 10/31/96 5:24 PM
>
>
>>
>>Where can I buy a video on Stits fabric covering process? >
>
>You can get one from Stits (or is it Poly-Fiber?) in which they cover
>a Piper Cub, but if you're thinking of covering a Kolb, I would recommend
>buying Kolb's covering video. Dennis just announced its existance not too
>long ago, and a few people on the list who bought it have said that its very
>good.
>
> -Jon-
>
>.--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----.
>| Jon Steiger: DoD# 1038, EAA #518210, USUA# A46209, NMA# 117376,
KotWitDoDFAQ |
>| stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu && http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/
|
>| '96 Dakota SLT V-8 Club Cab, '91 FZR600R /* Just another mangy hacker
*/ |
>`--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----'
>
>
---
Diane Renter e-mail: DRENTER(at)upanet.uleth.ca
Public Access Internet
The University of Lethbridge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Hi Dennis,
Back when I ordered my cage I had you weld my rudder petals back 2or 3 inches
because I am so short, only 5'6 inches tall, at the time you said you could
not move the seat forward. So anyways all seems well, I had 3 inches of
padding made for my seat which I had upholstered, moving me forward for cg (
I weight about 170#) . Well anyways last week I made my rudder cables, and
called a friend who also has a firestar 2, and he told me about his rigging
of his petals and how he can reach his rudder petals and brakes, well anyways
I rigged mine and with my heel resting on the floor, to be comfortable on the
rudder petals my heel rests on the floor, and it seems that I must lift my
foot and pull them back off the rudder petal to use the heel brake. I figured
that this was normal, and one was not supposed to use the rudder and brake at
the same time.Well anyways my bud came to look at my plane and he noticed
that it is impossible to use the heel brakes and rudder petals at the same
time, and we decifered that the petals must have been moved forward instead
of back wards when they were welded. Well I am trying to figure out what is
going on. Let me describe you my cage. In the front I have a bar across that
has the small stub welded forward that is where you install the piece
sticking forward for the rudder petal return spring, about 2-3 inched toward
the read from that is the bar with the rudder petals and 2-3 inched behind
that is the bar with the heel brakes. ( I am confused bear with me) so
anyways I think that I might be able to lift my heel and use the brakes
independently of the rudders when needed, or make a new rudder petal moving
it forward, etc. Are longer brake cables available, or is this distance on my
petals normal, and one is not able to use brakes and rudder a the same time.
To be honest, I think I would have flown the plane and got used to it this
way, but since my buddy pointed this out to me I was just wondering what you
think. I think I can re fabricate things after I start flying, but what do
you think about the current placement.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
DLSOUDER(at)aol.com, jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu (John R. Bennett, MD),
ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com, G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
On the soapbox...
It may be off the subject to some recipients, but... please remember that
tomorrow is election day. Vote for your candidate or party. Don't be one
in about every two voters who does not vote.
"Offa" the soapbox...
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Remove from mail list |
Please remove my address from your list.
Phxbrd(at)aol.com
THANKS
________________________________________________________________________________
remove my address from your list.
________________________________________________________________________________
by ameslab.gov (PMDF V5.0-7 #14663) id <01IBG1MN1AHCMUV17J(at)ameslab.gov> for
| From: | goldman(at)ameslab.gov (alan goldman) |
| Subject: | Remove from mail list |
Please remove my address from your list.
goldman(at)ameslab.gov
THANKS
************************************************************
Alan I. Goldman
goldman(at)ameslab.gov
Department of Physics and Astronomy
Iowa State University
Ames, IA 50011
phone: (515) 294-3585
fax: (515) 294-0689
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
| Subject: | Re: Vote Vote Vote |
My opinion is that IF YOU DON'T VOTE, that IS a vote for whomever won.
Please vote....
Ron B.
On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Cliff & Carolyn Stripling wrote:
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:01:26 -0600
> From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
> To: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
> EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
> jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
> G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
> john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
> kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
> rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
> strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
> Subject: Vote Vote Vote
>
> On the soapbox...
>
> It may be off the subject to some recipients, but... please remember that
> tomorrow is election day. Vote for your candidate or party. Don't be one
> in about every two voters who does not vote.
>
> "Offa" the soapbox...
>
> Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
> striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
> Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
>
>
>
"You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Rynearson <ryno2(at)tezcat.com> |
RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas, EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com,
DLSOUDER(at)aol.com, jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, G1C1(at)aol.com,
G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
| Subject: | Re: Vote Vote Vote |
My opinion is that if you vote for Clinton or Dole, you have wasted your
vote. They are both kingpins of vast legal [& illegal] bribery funded
political parties. They should just call them the Republicrats.
Vote for an independent candidate and help build momentum for third parties.
Thanks,
Edward Rynearson
On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Ron B. wrote:
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:58:19 -0800 (PST)
> From: Ron B. <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
> To: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling
> Cc: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
> EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
> jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
> G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
> john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
> kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
> rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
> strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
> Subject: Re: Vote Vote Vote
>
> My opinion is that IF YOU DON'T VOTE, that IS a vote for whomever won.
> Please vote....
> Ron B.
>
> On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Cliff & Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
> > Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:01:26 -0600
> > From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
> > To: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
> > EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
> > jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
> > G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
> > john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
> > kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
> > rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
> > strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
> > Subject: Vote Vote Vote
> >
> > On the soapbox...
> >
> > It may be off the subject to some recipients, but... please remember that
> > tomorrow is election day. Vote for your candidate or party. Don't be one
> > in about every two voters who does not vote.
> >
> > "Offa" the soapbox...
> >
> > Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
> > striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
> > Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> "You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gene(at)jps.net (Eugene Friedrich) |
| Subject: | RE: Vote Vote Vote |
Dole may not be of any great value , but his wife is. Also, he is not a
liar , thief, cheat, dope user and dealer,draft dodger, young communist
informer, murder (over 50 people whom have been involved with him and
his admin have died, including Vince Foster and others who have commited
suiside? The worst criminal in America is now in the White House.
----------
From: Edward Rynearson[SMTP:ryno2(at)tezcat.com]
Sent: Monday, November 04, 1996 9:21 AM
davep@Baylordallas; EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com; DLSOUDER(at)aol.com;
jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu; G1C1(at)aol.com; G1938(at)aol.com;
stripling(at)intrig.com; john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu;
JCEmbree(at)aol.com; kolb(at)intrig.com; Nanob2(at)aol.com; pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com;
rnjnones(at)tenet.edu; jarrett6(at)juno.com; ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org;
strip(at)flash.net; sse(at)utdallas.edu
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Vote Vote Vote
My opinion is that if you vote for Clinton or Dole, you have wasted your
vote. They are both kingpins of vast legal [& illegal] bribery funded
political parties. They should just call them the Republicrats.
Vote for an independent candidate and help build momentum for third
parties.
Thanks,
Edward Rynearson
On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Ron B. wrote:
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:58:19 -0800 (PST)
> From: Ron B. <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
> To: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling
> Cc: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
> EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
> jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
> G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
> john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
> kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
> rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
> strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
> Subject: Re: Vote Vote Vote
>
> My opinion is that IF YOU DON'T VOTE, that IS a vote for whomever won.
> Please vote....
> Ron B.
>
> On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Cliff & Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
> > Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:01:26 -0600
> > From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
> > To: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
> > EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
> > jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
> > G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
> > john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
> > kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
> > rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
> > strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
> > Subject: Vote Vote Vote
> >
> > On the soapbox...
> >
> > It may be off the subject to some recipients, but... please
remember that
> > tomorrow is election day. Vote for your candidate or party. Don't
be one
> > in about every two voters who does not vote.
> >
> > "Offa" the soapbox...
> >
> > Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
> > striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
> > Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> "You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Vote Vote Vote |
I thought this was a group about building Kolb aircraft, If I wanted to
hear other peoples political opinions I would have signed up with that
type of group.
>----------
>From: gene(at)jps.net@acuityinc.com[SMTP:gene(at)jps.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, November 04, 1996 7:12 PM
>To: Ron B.; 'Edward Rynearson'
>Cc: aerw(at)tenet.edu; davep@Baylordallas; DLSOUDER(at)aol.com;
>EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com; G1938(at)aol.com; G1C1(at)aol.com;
>jarrett6(at)juno.com; jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu; JCEmbree(at)aol.com;
>john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu; kolb(at)intrig.com;
>Nanob2(at)aol.com; pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com; rnjnones(at)tenet.edu; RWRatSJC(at)aol.com;
>ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org; sse(at)utdallas.edu; strip(at)flash.net; Cliff & Carolyn
>Stripling; stripling(at)intrig.com
>Subject: RE: Vote Vote Vote
>
>Dole may not be of any great value , but his wife is. Also, he is not a liar
>, thief, cheat, dope user and dealer,draft dodger, young communist informer,
>murder (over 50 people whom have been involved with him and his admin have
>died, including Vince Foster and others who have commited suiside? The worst
>criminal in America is now in the White House.
>
>----------
>From: Edward Rynearson[SMTP:ryno2(at)tezcat.com]
>Sent: Monday, November 04, 1996 9:21 AM
>To: Ron B.
>Cc: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling; aerw(at)tenet.edu; RWRatSJC(at)aol.com;
>davep@Baylordallas; EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com; DLSOUDER(at)aol.com;
>jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu; G1C1(at)aol.com; G1938(at)aol.com; stripling(at)intrig.com;
>john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu; JCEmbree(at)aol.com;
>kolb(at)intrig.com; Nanob2(at)aol.com; pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com; rnjnones(at)tenet.edu;
>jarrett6(at)juno.com; ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org; strip(at)flash.net;
>sse(at)utdallas.edu
>Subject: Re: Vote Vote Vote
>
>My opinion is that if you vote for Clinton or Dole, you have wasted your
>vote. They are both kingpins of vast legal [& illegal] bribery funded
>political parties. They should just call them the Republicrats.
>
>Vote for an independent candidate and help build momentum for third parties.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Edward Rynearson
>
>
>On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Ron B. wrote:
>
>> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:58:19 -0800 (PST)
>> From: Ron B. <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
>> To: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling
>> Cc: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
>> EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
>> jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
>> G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
>> john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
>> kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
>> rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
>> strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
>> Subject: Re: Vote Vote Vote
>>
>> My opinion is that IF YOU DON'T VOTE, that IS a vote for whomever won.
>> Please vote....
>> Ron B.
>>
>> On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Cliff & Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>>
>> > Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:01:26 -0600
>> > From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
>> > To: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
>> > EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
>> > jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
>> > G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
>> > john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
>> > kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
>> > rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
>> > strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
>> > Subject: Vote Vote Vote
>> >
>> > On the soapbox...
>> >
>> > It may be off the subject to some recipients, but... please remember
>>that
>> > tomorrow is election day. Vote for your candidate or party. Don't be
>>one
>> > in about every two voters who does not vote.
>> >
>> > "Offa" the soapbox...
>> >
>> > Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
>> > striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
>> > Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> "You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>> < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curits D. Ammons III" <cammons3(at)pipeline.com> |
Please remove my name from the mailing list. After this last fiasco with
political agendas, I find it unnecessary to tie up my e-mail. Thank you!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | blanecox(at)netcom.com (Blane Cox) |
I've noticed that all Kolbs have the tail boom mounted to the rear of the
cockpit cage. It would seem to me that this is a weak design as a hard
landing would break the joint. Quicksilver GT 400 have the cockpit cage
riding on the tail boom. Challenger's tail section is a series of pipes
acting as a skeleton of sorts. Has anyone had any problems with this
boom/cage joint?
Blane Cox
Regional Sales Manager
Capital City Press, Inc.
8411 Pyott Road, Suite 103
Lake in the Hills, IL 60102
(815) 356-9041
(815 356-9046 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Pearson (Intl Vendor)" <v-bobpe(at)microsoft.com> |
| Subject: | European builders? |
Hi all- I am torn between a Rans Airaile and a MK III, any Kolb MkIII
aviators in Europe for advice/guidance? I am English but live
permanently in France.
Bob Pearson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hi Altitude Compensating Carbs |
Back to airplane talk:
I live at an altitude of 4,000 MSL. Will there be a benefit to adding high
altitude compensating carbs on my Rotax 503? What are the pros & cons?
BTW: Watch out for them UPS drivers. I got my FireStar II plans yesterday via
UPS. The top metal cover was busted off the shipping tube. The driver had the
tube under her arm with the open end to her back and did the not handed it
over until it was signed for. I had the package deliver to my parents home
because they are home most of the time. My Dad being a trusting soul did not
check for tube damages in front of the driver. The manual was missing and the
corner of the plans were ragged. Barbara from KOLB is kind enough to send me
a replacement manual.
Type to you later
Will U
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
.____|____.
\(*)/
o/ \o
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Myers <pjm(at)mcc.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | No more political statements please! |
Please keep this list for Kolb matters - or at least vaguely related to
aircraft matters.
I for one couldn't care less who you have as President over on the other
side of the pond. Neither of them would stand a chance over here in the
UK.
Perhaps I should start posting information on the General Election in the
UK coming up within the next 6 months!
Patrick Myers
Networking & Operations | Email: pat.myers(at)mcc.ac.uk
Manchester Computing | URL: http://snoopy.mcc.ac.uk/pjm/
University of Manchester | Tel: +44 (0)161 275 6016
Oxford Road, Manchester M13 9PL | Fax: +44 (0)161 275 6040
On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, Jason Omelchuck wrote:
>
> I thought this was a group about building Kolb aircraft, If I wanted to
> hear other peoples political opinions I would have signed up with that
> type of group.
> >----------
> >From: gene(at)jps.net@acuityinc.com[SMTP:gene(at)jps.net@acuityinc.com]
> >Sent: Monday, November 04, 1996 7:12 PM
> >To: Ron B.; 'Edward Rynearson'
> >Cc: aerw(at)tenet.edu; davep@Baylordallas; DLSOUDER(at)aol.com;
> >EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com; G1938(at)aol.com; G1C1(at)aol.com;
> >jarrett6(at)juno.com; jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu; JCEmbree(at)aol.com;
> >john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu; kolb(at)intrig.com;
> >Nanob2(at)aol.com; pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com; rnjnones(at)tenet.edu; RWRatSJC(at)aol.com;
> >ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org; sse(at)utdallas.edu; strip(at)flash.net; Cliff & Carolyn
> >Stripling; stripling(at)intrig.com
> >Subject: RE: Vote Vote Vote
> >
> >Dole may not be of any great value , but his wife is. Also, he is not a liar
> >, thief, cheat, dope user and dealer,draft dodger, young communist informer,
> >murder (over 50 people whom have been involved with him and his admin have
> >died, including Vince Foster and others who have commited suiside? The worst
> >criminal in America is now in the White House.
> >
> >----------
> >From: Edward Rynearson[SMTP:ryno2(at)tezcat.com]
> >Sent: Monday, November 04, 1996 9:21 AM
> >To: Ron B.
> >Cc: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling; aerw(at)tenet.edu; RWRatSJC(at)aol.com;
> >davep@Baylordallas; EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com; DLSOUDER(at)aol.com;
> >jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu; G1C1(at)aol.com; G1938(at)aol.com; stripling(at)intrig.com;
> >john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu; JCEmbree(at)aol.com;
> >kolb(at)intrig.com; Nanob2(at)aol.com; pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com; rnjnones(at)tenet.edu;
> >jarrett6(at)juno.com; ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org; strip(at)flash.net;
> >sse(at)utdallas.edu
> >Subject: Re: Vote Vote Vote
> >
> >My opinion is that if you vote for Clinton or Dole, you have wasted your
> >vote. They are both kingpins of vast legal [& illegal] bribery funded
> >political parties. They should just call them the Republicrats.
> >
> >Vote for an independent candidate and help build momentum for third parties.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Edward Rynearson
> >
> >
> >On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Ron B. wrote:
> >
> >> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:58:19 -0800 (PST)
> >> From: Ron B. <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
> >> To: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling
> >> Cc: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
> >> EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
> >> jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
> >> G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
> >> john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
> >> kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
> >> rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
> >> strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
> >> Subject: Re: Vote Vote Vote
> >>
> >> My opinion is that IF YOU DON'T VOTE, that IS a vote for whomever won.
> >> Please vote....
> >> Ron B.
> >>
> >> On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Cliff & Carolyn Stripling wrote:
> >>
> >> > Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:01:26 -0600
> >> > From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
> >> > To: aerw(at)tenet.edu, RWRatSJC(at)aol.com, davep@Baylordallas,
> >> > EDU(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com,
> >> > jbennett(at)marlin.utmb.edu, ryno2(at)tezcat.com, G1C1(at)aol.com,
> >> > G1938(at)aol.com, stripling(at)intrig.com,
> >> > john_taylor_at_~~IZMI-DHS(at)ccmail.odedodea.edu, JCEmbree(at)aol.com,
> >> > kolb(at)intrig.com, Nanob2(at)aol.com, pcpetrellis(at)mmm.com,
> >> > rnjnones(at)tenet.edu, jarrett6(at)juno.com, ryan.seals(at)chrysalis.org,
> >> > strip(at)flash.net, sse(at)utdallas.edu
> >> > Subject: Vote Vote Vote
> >> >
> >> > On the soapbox...
> >> >
> >> > It may be off the subject to some recipients, but... please remember
> >>that
> >> > tomorrow is election day. Vote for your candidate or party. Don't be
> >>one
> >> > in about every two voters who does not vote.
> >> >
> >> > "Offa" the soapbox...
> >> >
> >> > Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
> >> > striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
> >> > Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> "You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> >> < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guillermo Uribe <76262.641(at)compuserve.com> |
>I've noticed that all Kolbs have the tail boom mounted to the rear of the
>cockpit cage. It would seem to me that this is a weak design as a hard
>landing would break the joint. Quicksilver GT 400 have the cockpit cage
>riding on the tail boom.
I did not know Quicksilver GT 400 had a "cockpit cage".
>Challenger's tail section is a series of pipes
>acting as a skeleton of sorts. Has anyone had any problems with this
>boom/cage joint?
My personal opinion and that doesn't mean much but I think Challenger's and
Quicksilver GT 400's nose wheel will break on a hard landing before the Kolbs
back will break.
Tail draggers are the only way to go on rough fields. Believe me, I have a
Cessna 172.
Anyways I would rather have the airplane break its back and absorb the impact
then I break my back if I had a violent crash landing. Remember any landing you
can walk away from is a good landing. It is easier to fix a broken airplane then
a broken spinal cord.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
When you think about it the Kolb and the Quicksilver have about the same
system in that the boom leaves the airplane at a single point. In both
aircraft all the stresses are at that point, it doesn't matter how far
foreword the boom goes. I did read an article recently about someone
who broke a gear leg on a Kolb and when the leg dug into the ground it
spun them around so quickly that the tail boom was bent. Luckily with
this type of airplane one day of work and a few hundred dollars latter
they were back flying.
>----------
>From: Guillermo Uribe[SMTP:76262.641(at)compuserve.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 1996 9:32 AM
>To: Blane Cox
>Cc: The list
>Subject: Re: Tail Boom
>
>>I've noticed that all Kolbs have the tail boom mounted to the rear of the
>>cockpit cage. It would seem to me that this is a weak design as a hard
>>landing would break the joint. Quicksilver GT 400 have the cockpit cage
>>riding on the tail boom.
>I did not know Quicksilver GT 400 had a "cockpit cage".
>>Challenger's tail section is a series of pipes
>>acting as a skeleton of sorts. Has anyone had any problems with this
>>boom/cage joint?
>
>My personal opinion and that doesn't mean much but I think Challenger's and
>Quicksilver GT 400's nose wheel will break on a hard landing before the Kolbs
>back will break.
>Tail draggers are the only way to go on rough fields. Believe me, I have a
>Cessna 172.
>
>Anyways I would rather have the airplane break its back and absorb the impact
>then I break my back if I had a violent crash landing. Remember any landing
>you
>can walk away from is a good landing. It is easier to fix a broken airplane
>then
>a broken spinal cord.
>
>Type to you later
>Will Uribe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, Blane Cox wrote:
> I've noticed that all Kolbs have the tail boom mounted to the rear of the
> cockpit cage. It would seem to me that this is a weak design as a hard
> landing would break the joint. Quicksilver GT 400 have the cockpit cage
> riding on the tail boom. Challenger's tail section is a series of pipes
> acting as a skeleton of sorts. Has anyone had any problems with this
> boom/cage joint?
You should see what's inside the boom at the attach point for structure.
That would make you feel much better. In simple terms, it is a chromoly
tube structure that spreads the loads of the attach point to a couple
feet forward and aft of what looks like the single attach point on the
outside. I have complete confidence in that and every other area of
my Kolb.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Tail Boom |
<< From: jason(at)acuityinc.com (Jason Omelchuck)
Sender: owner-kolb(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com
To: kolb(at)intrig.com ('Kolb builders')
>When you think about it the Kolb and the Quicksilver have about the same
>system in that the boom leaves the airplane at a single point. In both
>aircraft all the stresses are at that point, it doesn't matter how far
> foreword the boom goes. I did read an article recently about someone
> who broke a gear leg on a Kolb and when the leg dug into the ground it
> spun them around so quickly that the tail boom was bent. Luckily with
> this type of airplane one day of work and a few hundred dollars latter
> they were back flying.
>>
I saw the same article, Its on the October 1996 issue of Kitplanes, the moral
of the story was:
"Avoiding the expense of hiring a filght instructor to teach his wife to fly
turns out to be expensive".
Type to you later
Will Uribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Hi Altitude Compensating Carbs |
On Tue, 5 Nov 1996 WillU(at)aol.com wrote:
> Back to airplane talk:
AMEN
>
> I live at an altitude of 4,000 MSL. Will there be a benefit to adding high
> altitude compensating carbs on my Rotax 503? What are the pros & cons?
>
I've wanted to get one of these someday too. However, i'm more interested in
the modification done by somebody in Alaska that allows you to adjust the
midrange circuit in flight. He advertises in UF! and wants only ~$50
for it. He had an article describing it in UF several years ago.
To me, this offers the pilot total control instead of the "black box" and
more expensive Rotax altitude compensating carb option.
In general, altitude compensation is not needed just because you don't
live at sea level. It is needed whenever the density altitude changes
enf, whether because of changes in flight altitude, atmospheric pressure,
or outside air temp and humidity. If your flights are frequently
through more than a 2500 foot altitude range or 40 degree temp range,
in-flight compensation would be nice. Otherwise, like most people, you
can just manually change jets or needle position when average conditions
(e.g. summer vs winter) change enf to matter. I like the idea of in-flight
manual control because, with fixed jets and needle positions, there are
spots in the rpm range where you just happen to be stuck at slightly
rich or slighly lean. I sometimes change rpm to get to whatever spot
i want, but i'd rather be able to tweak the mixture at my desired cruise
rpm. oh, alright, its just another toy and i want it!
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
| Subject: | Source for Rivets? |
I had to drill out some of my rivets and need to re-attach with oversize
(5/32) rivets. None of the local stores carry SS rivets, only the AA
type. In the CPS and Lockwood catalogs, they want 15-20 cents per rivet!!
This seems grossly overpriced to me. Does anyone have a rivet source at
more reasonable prices? Thanks.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hi Altitude Compensating Carbs |
Ben Ransom wrote:
> or outside air temp and humidity. If your flights are frequently
> through more than a 2500 foot altitude range or 40 degree temp range,
> in-flight compensation would be nice.
I've wondered how high you have to go before things get a bit too rich.
It seems like the people who live at higher elevations have more to risk
if they're within flying range of a lower elevation. If you setup for
normal operation at high elevation, then fly to a low one with the same
settings, you're going to be running lean. It seems to me (having NO
2-cycle experience, mind you) that lean is a potentially flight ending
condition. Overheat and sieze are two words that come to mind. I wonder
what the limit is?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
If you wimps can't put up with small bs get off the list,BY ! Diden't
hear from you before anyway,Delete is one key.
Jeff here , Builders beware of the part that says tire alignment!
Follow plans. I follow plans, but I listen to my father to, said toe
in was OK. No go.
Redrilled gear and the thing works real GOOD!!.
Here's what we got so far.
FireFly, full windshield, 447, We wraped the struts with dacron to cut
drag, 5500=70mph. full=81mph and climbing, vne is 83 so that was enough.
Max static is 6200., it read 6200 at 80mph, 2.5hr on motor.
Kolb I know full enclouser is not recomended,nor is covering struts,
But I had to know. Boy it flyes good
Stall=30 clean, about 26 with flaps, but we don't like them too much
yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
Where is the best place to put the static port for airspeed?
Suggestions please!
Brandon
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Almost . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
Flying / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | more on brake levers |
I got my experimenter in the mail today and looked at the photos of the
slingshot and I think i have figured out what I did on my Firestar 2,
regarding the question I had on whether when you welded my rudder petals
back, or forward by accident. Your right about them being back. I got
confused because the bars are different from the drawings as per my request
of moving the petals. You e mailed me that they are 5 inches back from rudder
petals, however mine are not.
Here is what I have, the forward most bar going across (which normally has
the rudder petals) is by itself, and only has the little stub used for the
rudder return spring mounting. 2 inched to the rear of that is another bar
which has the rudder petals, and 1.5 inches to the rear from that is another
bar which is only that, a bar by itself.
So the only way I could move the brake petals forward from where they are
know would be to mount them on this bar, which is 1.5 inches behind the
rudder petals, which would make then move in front of the rudder petals when
fully pushed forward in operation. So it seems that my only option is to
mount them where they are, which is on the bar even further back, which is
even to where the fiberglass pods stopps.
I also do not have enough brake cable length even if I wanted to move the
petals forward.
I think I will fly it the way it is and see if it works, or if not I might
build a new petal that is made to mount in the same place as where I have it
now, and build it so that it makes kinda a half circle, going forward then
in, which would in essence move the petal forward. who knows, have I totally
confused you. What do you think?
I also have a photo of this set up that I would be glad to send you for more
advice if this is too confusing.
Thanks again Tim Loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Interesting this subject has come up . I would think if you moved
one, you would have to move the other to maintain the proper
respective positioning.
You placed this on the Kolb mailing list but didn't identify which
model you have. I am about 5'6" also. When I was at Oshkosh last
year looking at the FireFly there were 3 other short people that also
sit in it. We all could reach the pedals but the major problem we had
was the front bar of the seat. To reach the pedals, you had to extend
you legs straighter than a taller person. This resulted in the bar
placing a high amount of pressure on back of your legs. I suggested
to Dennis they lower the bar some (approx. 1") which he agreed to do
on my kit. Having sit in it after delivery it seems to have
accomplished what I wanted. I also had them add the heel brake option
to the fuselage.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: question
Date: 11/3/96 11:37 PM
Hi Dennis,
Back when I ordered my cage I had you weld my rudder petals back 2or 3 inches
because I am so short, only 5'6 inches tall, at the time you said you could
not move the seat forward. So anyways all seems well, I had 3 inches of
padding made for my seat which I had upholstered, moving me forward for cg (
I weight about 170#) . Well anyways last week I made my rudder cables, and
called a friend who also has a firestar 2, and he told me about his rigging
of his petals and how he can reach his rudder petals and brakes, well anyways
I rigged mine and with my heel resting on the floor, to be comfortable on the
rudder petals my heel rests on the floor, and it seems that I must lift my
foot and pull them back off the rudder petal to use the heel brake. I figured
that this was normal, and one was not supposed to use the rudder and brake at
the same time.Well anyways my bud came to look at my plane and he noticed
that it is impossible to use the heel brakes and rudder petals at the same
time, and we decifered that the petals must have been moved forward instead
of back wards when they were welded. Well I am trying to figure out what is
going on. Let me describe you my cage. In the front I have a bar across that
has the small stub welded forward that is where you install the piece
sticking forward for the rudder petal return spring, about 2-3 inched toward
the read from that is the bar with the rudder petals and 2-3 inched behind
that is the bar with the heel brakes. ( I am confused bear with me) so
anyways I think that I might be able to lift my heel and use the brakes
independently of the rudders when needed, or make a new rudder petal moving
it forward, etc. Are longer brake cables available, or is this distance on my
petals normal, and one is not able to use brakes and rudder a the same time.
To be honest, I think I would have flown the plane and got used to it this
way, but since my buddy pointed this out to me I was just wondering what you
think. I think I can re fabricate things after I start flying, but what do
you think about the current placement.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
>Hello,
>
>Where is the best place to put the static port for airspeed?
>Suggestions please!
>
>Bradon
I am not flying yet so I don't know if is is in a good place but I put mine
right on the tip of the nose along with the pitot tube. I ran it parallel
out about 2.5 inches along the bottom of the pitot tube (the pitot tube
extend on out about 7 inches). I wired the two tubes together with safety
wire then covered the combination with epoxy (making sure to cover the hole
in the static tube) and epoxyed the combined unit to the nose cone hole. I
then drilled two VERY tiny holes on either side of the pluged up static
tube. I also cut the pitot tube at about 3" and put a piece of flexible
plastic tubing in the joint. I don't know how many children (and a few
adults) have grabbed the pitot tube and bent it... occasionally
accidentally. It is a repair job waiting to happen if you leave it stiff.
I will have to slip a collar (of stiffer material) over the joint when I
actually fly. The slip stream itself will bend it if I don't.
They make these neat little square stick on plastic pieces with loops on the
top (so you can use tie wraps) to hold the plastic tubing and wiring to the
inside of the nose cone. I never could find them so I just epoxyed the tie
wraps themselves to the inside. So far they are holding OK.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
To all,
The $49 Brightstar strobe sold by Skysports flashes nicely (7 joules) but
will not take a lot of vibration. I had mine installed on top of the Rotax
582 on the oil tank bracket. It lasted about 10 minutes before it shook
loose some of its innards. Not a good place to mount it. Anybody have a
better place (describe attachment) for a single strobe???
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fmetcalf(at)ix.netcom.com (Frank Metcalfe) |
| Subject: | Re: Static Ports !! |
The static ports sould be located some where on the plane where there
is neutral or a slight low pressure area. The way the Airspeed works is
that ram air is taken in the p tube, and pressurizes the case and
bellows which turns the needle and the the air exits the static port.
The static ports on most G/A is located on the side of the fuselage
where there is steady even air flow over and in aslight low pressure
area. I have not started my Kolb project yet but I did put a air speed
indicator on my 1983 Swallow. I placed the p tube out the front of the
pod and the static port on the bottom of the pod. Seem to work fine.
Hope this helps some !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | send message in error |
I sent a message regarding my brake petals to this forum in error, I meant to
send it directly to Dennis at Kolb but in editing my address book I just
grabbed the wrong address. I bet the message was confusing to all who read
it.
By the way, In regards to my message, I had Kolb weld my rudder petals back 3
inches to help my short legs (I am 5'6inches tall) on my Firestar 2. That
really seems to help but I messed up when I installed the brake levers. I
think I will now need to fabricate some new ones. I mounted them on the bar
that goes across about where the fiberglass pod ends. Way too far back to use
the rudder and brakes at the same time.
What does everybody think, I know in the past the brakes work fine with out
rudder, ie the plane is controllable with rudder and not much braking is
needed except for stopping and steering. (not like GA where the brakes are
used a lot. Should I leave them alone and see if I can get used to them or
what.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Covering questions |
Hi,
I've been reading the covering manual and watching the R&R Kolb covering
video, and I have a few questions.
What is everyone doing about UV protection? I was under the impression
that the UV blocker in the paint was fine for my plane since it'll be
hangered all the time, but the manual makes it sound like you should
only skip the Poly-Spray in extreme weight restrictive cases. What do
you think? Also, the video said that you can use the UV blocker in the
Poly-Brush of Poly-Tone. Would it provide more protection if you used
it in both? Did anyone use it in the Poly-Brush rather than the
Poly-Tone? I'll probably have to call R&R about this.
What did everyone do about drain holes? The manual shows nice drain
grommets, but they aren't included with the covering kit. It sounds
like you can just burn a small hole for drainage if there's 2 or more
layers of fabric. Is that what everyone does? The video didn't show
anything about drain holes.
How about inspection covers? There doesn't seem to be any maintenance
items inside the wing, but it might be nice to peek around in there
sometime. Do most people add these, and where?
Enough for now. I've got 2 weeks off starting Monday to try to get the
wings build. I'll be finishing up the tail attachments if my missing
tubing shows up soon.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
After considering everything I could read and advice from Randy at R&R,
I decided to use ONE light coat of Poly Spray on the TOP OF THE SURFACES
ONLY, then followed up with the UV additive in the Poly Tone. The P.Spray
I used was applied tended to smooth over small imperfections before the
P.Tone. I had hoped it would be sandable, however it was not, one coat is
not enough to sand. Since I hate sanding, and I had very few problems
to worry about about anyway, this worked well. I used the recommendation
of Cliff Stripling to iron the tapes and imperfections. I ironed those
darn pinked edges about a dozen times through the process but the end result
was, in most cases, very smooth with zero sanding.
The decision to use the single coat of P.Spray was influenced by labor,
P.Spray cost, and weight, VS payback. I believe that the single coat is
maybe only 50% effective, but is overcoated with the 80% effective additive
in the P.Tone. And of course the plane will be indoors 90% of its life.
Randy is a LOT of help on these questions (R&R in Mich.).
HAS ANYONE BEEN ABLE TO GET A RESPONSE FROM DENNIS @ KOLB CO IN THE LAST
COUPLE WEEKS? I HAVE SENT TWO NOTES, MAYBE THEY ARE NOT GETTING THERE.
THANKS... jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Covering questions |
On Thu, 7 Nov 1996, Russell Duffy wrote:
> What is everyone doing about UV protection? I was under the impression
i went with 2 coats of polyspray, then 1.5 coats of polytone. I say 1.5
because, per Randy @RR, you go over the same area with in a minute or less
in a cross direction with the spray gun. UV protection for me is only from
the polytone and my plane is kept inside.
>
> What did everyone do about drain holes? The manual shows nice drain
I ordered a 1/2 doz drain grommets from Aircraft Spruce along with my
wing inspection ports. I had thought i'd add the drain grommets after
completion, partly to know better where the water wanted to pocket in
the cockpit. But, i've just burned holes right behind the landing gear
bulk-head, and never have bothered with the grommets.
>
> How about inspection covers? There doesn't seem to be any maintenance
> items inside the wing, but it might be nice to peek around in there
> sometime. Do most people add these, and where?
I got 2 on each wing: one under the meeting point for the lift, main,
and drag struts, and the 2nd is just in the root rib just behind the
main spar. I put these in during initial covering to allow ventilation
if ever deemed necessary, and also for visual check inside, and in fact
i could get a wrench onto the bolt in the middle of the wing to verify
tightness if i wanted to. They were easy to add in the beginning and I'm
glad i did. Hey, without them you never again get to look inside at your
great handywork!
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, bkearbey wrote:
> Where is the best place to put the static port for airspeed?
> Suggestions please!
i didn't route the static port anywhere; i just left it open on the back
of the ASI per se. My indicated speeds match the predicted book values
(i.e. i stall right at 27mph indicated) and also match rate*time checks
done at indicated cruise speeds. This is on a Firestar KXP w/ standard
canopy and nose pod.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | blanecox(at)netcom.com (Blane Cox) |
Anyone building a Firefly in the NW burbs of Chicago. Would like to see it.
Blane Cox
Regional Sales Manager
Capital City Press, Inc.
8411 Pyott Road, Suite 103
Lake in the Hills, IL 60102
(815) 356-9041
(815 356-9046 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry D McKnight <mcknight(at)erols.com> |
Need assistance getting off kolb list.
mcknight(at)erols.com
Trying to remove myself from the Kolb mailing list.. 96 messages today.
After repeated tries I get results like "host unknown". Appreciate
assistance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
>HAS ANYONE BEEN ABLE TO GET A RESPONSE FROM DENNIS @ KOLB CO IN THE LAST
>COUPLE WEEKS? I HAVE SENT TWO NOTES, MAYBE THEY ARE NOT GETTING THERE.
>THANKS... jim
Jim and all...
I talked to Dennis on the "technical telephone line" into Kolb yesterday. I
had also sent him a post or two by e-mail to the AOL address which he is
evidently going to shut down soon and continue with the new address. He
told me that he doesn't look at his e-mail every day. I believe that. I do
know he reads the "stuff" on this list because he comments from time to time.
I know he prefers to talk to builders on the phone rather than by mail or
e-mail (at least that is what he told me when I first called him with a
builder question)... I guess because it is quicker and easier for him and
one on one so there is less chance for confusion.
I have seen the list grow from just a few guys who passed messages from one
to another (before Motorola and more recently Intrigue helped us out) to
what it is now. We are a group of builders and enthusiasts networking to
help and support each other by sharing ideas and information with no Kolb
company involvement except perhaps the hope for positive response to its
products (not a very hard thing for most of us to do). The ideas and
information offered are then weighed and sifted by each of us as to whether
it is good or maybe not so good. In almost all contrary opinions, the
poster has been civil (not always the case on the internet, and for this I
am especially proud of this group). Infrequently, even Dennis Souder will
announce something or post an opinion about something if he feels
(representing the company) that it is the responsible thing for him to do.
IMHO, this is what a builder-enthusiast group ought to be like - so pat
yourselves on the back.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Answers From R&R |
Hi again,
I made a really expensive call to Randy at R&R yesterday. He's one of
those people that makes you wish they had an 800 # (excepting of course
for the 5.7 billion people who don't live in the US). I'll summarize
the points that I received from the conversation.
UV Protection:
Randy has a plane that's 12 years old and only has the UV blocker in the
P-Tone. It's hangered except for the occasional week that it's tied up
at Oshkosk. The fabric was just punch tested and found to be almost as
strong as new fabric. He said that in general, if you're going to be
hangering your plane, the UV blocker will do a nice job. Some purists
at Stits don't like it (namely, the guy who wrote the manual), but the
test results speak for themselves.
Yes you can put UV blocker in P-Brush AND/or P-Tone. He said that they
haven't done any tests to determine how much extra protection it adds,
but he felt certain that it would add some.
Drain Grommets:
Randy confirmed that the grommets aren't needed. He said that they were
standard practice back in the cotten fabric days, but since dacron
doesn't tend to rip (esp when the drain holes are burned in), the
reinforcement isn't needed using Poly Fiber. Placement of the drains
seems to be a matter of taste to some extent. Mostly it sounds like the
holes are there for ventilation more than actually draining water. Many
of the holes that are at the lowest point when the plane is assembled,
are at the highest point when the plane is folded.
Inspection Covers:
Don't need them, but.... He suggested that you can install the
reinforcement rings during the covering at locations where you might
want access later, but don't cut them out. If you ever need to get in
there, all you need to do is cut it open, then use a cover to close it
up when you're done. These are suggested to be on the bottom of the
wing only.
So, what did this all mean to me? I'm planning to use the UV blocker in
all but the brushed-on coat of P-Brush, and in the P-Tone. I won't use
any P-Spray at all. I will burn some holes for drainage using the
soldering iron through reinforced area method with no grommets. These
will probably be in the "conventional" locations. I'll add at least a
couple of inspection cover rings to the bottom of the wings without
cutting them open. I may go ahead and buy the covers and paint them
with everything else, so I'll have them if ever needed.
Well, I have to go to my last day of work before the 2 week building
spree begins.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
| Subject: | RE: Answers From R&R |
Russell said:
* Inspection Covers:
.... I may go ahead and buy the covers and paint them
* with everything else, so I'll have them if ever needed.
By all means. Trying to match the paint later!!!! O, well ...
Hope to be catching up with you soon. But with time off (not sure what that is
myself)
it will be tuff. I fixed the spelling of your name on my web page.(sorry bout
that).
Keep up the enthusiasm. Later.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RSCRacing(at)aol.com |
Hello, well my father and i tried to run our static port parallel to the
P port but it was way off . Compared to another kolb about 10 mph to slow.
Pulled the static tube off of the back of the ASi and that seems to have
corrected it. Follwed the directions per manual to make it a little more
accurate. Just didnt seem to work. Probably will just run it out the side of
the nose cone like a Cessna.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
| Subject: | Do you like "" in kolb list email subjects? |
Currently, all email sent to the kolb list has a prefix of
inserted in the title. This is supposed to help you
filter your kolb list email and keep it separate from your
other mail.
I have had a request from a list member to remove the feature
because it is actually hindering him and I am considering
removing the feature.
But, before I do, I want to know how *you* feel. If you have
a strong feeling for or against this issue, please send me
email voicing your opinion. If you really could care less, do
nothing...
There are right at 300 people on the list, I certainly don't
want all of you to send me email (At least not in the same
week :-). I want to hear from those of you who either love
the feature or hate it.
If the responses do not indicate that lots of people are
depending on the feature, expect it to go away next weekend.
Please send your vote directly to me, not to the kolb
list...
Jeff
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone know of any other builder groups out there?
Got to start another project,Firefly's done and went to fast.Sure fly's
good!
Maby wood this time,just like to build.
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
I got to fly in our Mark III today and I can't say enough about it.
It was truly fun. What a neat bird to fly. My father and I first
took off then decided to land and put the doors on. We finished that
and then took off again. It flys so neat. Its responsive and solid.
I am so happy to see our hours of work flying. I hope to get new
pictures of it up on the web and I will tell you when I do.
The ASI is still not correct. Without the doors it seems to be ok
but with the doors there is negative pressure and it causes
errouniously high readings. We are going to try to order a static
port like those used in GA. It definatly won't work in the cockpit
seeing that the doors can come off ect. constantly changing things.
Well happy flying and building,
Brandon
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed. /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Broussard <cpearl(at)datasync.com> |
Hello everyone.
Looking for a Kolb Mk.III that is build/building in lower La., Miss.,Ala.,
or the panhandle of Fl. I want to look without having to go to the factory.
Thanks all,
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Bentley" <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Pictures on Mark III construction on the web |
I just purchased a Kodak DC25 Digital Camera, took some pictures of my
construction, and put them on the web.
The URL is http://members.aol.com/scottbntly
The process of using AOL for this purpose is fairly straightforward,
and certainly cheap.
In the pictures, you can see how I installed my Kuntzleman Hot Box,
I'm hoping to start up the engine in a couple weeks.
Completion will depend, among other things, on covering the wings,
which I haven't done yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Want to show off your work? |
My friend and I have read all the great reviews about Kolb aircraft. I think
we've read all there is to read.
It's time now to find one and see one "up close and personal." If there is
anyone who is near the northern New Jersey area who has built (or better
still) is in the process of building a Kolb, we'd like to know and possibly
arrange a visit.
Thanks, Rich Rudd
________________________________________________________________________________
13 Nov 96 21:44:50 GMT+6
13 Nov 96 21:44:38 GMT+6
| From: | morris verlander <morris(at)gulflink.com> |
| Subject: | work surface for wing. |
hello.
i was wondering if anyone had pics to share of their
firestar wing under construction...
thanks.
morris(at)gulflink.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neal Campbell <ncampbel(at)compusmart.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Remove me from mail list |
Please remove my name from the mail list.
Thanks
ncampbel(at)compusmart.ab.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: work surface for wing. |
Morris,
There are only a few pictures that I know of. I've posted some building
photos from Mike Holland on my page, and Ben Ransom has some on his
page. The easiest way to get to both, is to go through my web address
listed below. I'm building SlingShot wings today, and I'll be taking
some pictures. They won't show up for a week or so.
Since we're on the subject, does anyone have web space to post Mike
Holland's pictures (1.9 mb)? Once I process another couple of rolls of
SlingShot film, I'm going to have to take his photos off due to space
limitations.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Firestar best climb numbers |
Hi Rusty,
Here's some of the brief performance checking i did.
These numbers are all the same flight, and all tests started
within 50-1500' MSL on a 95 degree day, so conditions were pretty
consistent:
1. Full power climb:
IAS (mph) Climb Rate (fpm)
35 1050
40 1100
50 950
2. Idle glide:
IAS (mph) Sink Rate (fpm)
38 500
48 650
Airplane Stats:
Firestar KXP, pretty much standard
447 Single Carb Rotax w/ 2.5 B box
Propellor is 66" Warp "high aspect" pitched to 10.5 degrees (tranlates to
66 x 38.4, which is pretty far into the cruise range).
Load on the plane approx 170 lbs plus normal fuel.
BTW, I've checked my IAS and I think it is pretty accurate.
>From this and a few other seperate tests i put my numbers at:
best rate of climb & best glide angle ~40 mph or just over
max angle climb and minimum sink rate ~38 mph
This is really a very limited test and sort of rough. My ability to
lock onto 35 mph, stay exactly at that speed and check my watch (and
chew gum :-)), allows for some error. At 1000 fpm, missing the start
and stop times of a timed one minute climb by a total of 5 seconds would
account for an 83 fpm error (8 %).
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
We moved the static port to the bottom of the nose cone. We found a
piece of pipe that the static tube fit into and made it so that there
was only a small hole in the end. We then mounted it straight down
through the bottom of the nose cone. This configuration seems to
work very well. Airspeeds seems accurate with the static port here.
Has anyone tried to use the Leading Edge Airfoils' (LEAF) muffler
attached cabin heater? If so please write me and tell me how well it
works and your set up for installing it.
Brandon
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
Sorry to write another message but my father and I have another
question. Has anyone tried to enclose the aft part of the fuselage.
This is above the gas tanks. Enclosing this would allow more storage
room for something you might want to take along. Please write back
if you have tried or know of someone that has and how they did it.
Thanks
Brandon
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
I ordered a full enclosure for my MKIII and what they sent was a sewn
flexible plastic piece that wraps around the back upper half. It is
made out of the same stuff a convertible car top back window is made out
of. I have also seen kolbs with the whole back enclosed in fabric to
the point where it looks like there is a wall directly behind the seats.
There must have been a door somewhere for fueling and access. This
would block your rearward view.
>----------
>From: bkearbey[SMTP:bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Thursday, November 14, 1996 1:18 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: enclosing?
>
>Hello,
>
>Sorry to write another message but my father and I have another
>question. Has anyone tried to enclose the aft part of the fuselage.
>This is above the gas tanks. Enclosing this would allow more storage
>room for something you might want to take along. Please write back
>if you have tried or know of someone that has and how they did it.
>
>Thanks
>Brandon
>
> |
>Kolb | - - - -
>Mark III [][]-| - - - -
>N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
>Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
> . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
> . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
> (_____________//----------------\^
> / o
> ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlene Clark <charjls(at)olympus.net> |
| Subject: | KOLB FIRESTAR II |
Hi out there. I am looking to purchase a Kolb Firestar II that is
assembled. I live in Washington State and am very serious. Hopefully I can
find something with a Rotax 503 engine. I intend to put floats on the
plane. I don't have room to assemble one myself, so am seriously trying to
find one out there. ]
If you know of anyone, I sure would appreciate them or you contacting Dean
Henry at 360-683-5299.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
<< At what point are we to not ship the old style struts (alum streamline)
and start shipping the new type?
>>
Good question: I let you know. Keep reminding me.
--NAA15901.848081939/emout03.mail.aol.com--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
What are the new style struts?
>----------
>From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com[SMTP:DLSOUDER(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Friday, November 15, 1996 10:26 AM
>To: KOLB(at)hpmail2.ftw.mot.com
>Subject: Struts
>
><< At what point are we to not ship the old style struts (alum streamline)
> and start shipping the new type?
> >>
>Good question: I let you know. Keep reminding me.
>
>--NAA15901.848081939/emout03.mail.aol.com--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Excerpts: (FAA insp. & Flt.testing) |
To all...
>The airport advisory frequency is on chart, you have an up to date chart,
>right. They will ding you if they catch you with an out dated one. New
>sectionals were just out last month I believe. When they come to inspect,
>the most important thing is to have your paper work (registration, weight
>balance, equipment list, etc.) in order. Also have your builders
>documentation (construction pictures & builder log) in good organized order.
>Are you getting your Repairman's Certificate so your can do maintenance
>and conventional (annual) inspections yourself. You have to request this
>from them. Yes, you want it.
>
Nowdays, I think you send in the paperwork for Repairman after the testing
hours are flown off.
>
>Unless you have a lot of bullet items, they'll sign you off with a punch
>list. Usually if they sense you are organized, got it together, and don't
see >any major things, they likely not spend much time looking at the
airplane. Have >your kit builders manual and plans available. Have a pad
for issues they find, >don't argue with them, reason with them. Last of all
agree to take care of it.
>
>Normally on a uncertified engine/prop configuration, they will give you a
>40 hour fly off period, in rare cases less. Have you consider what kind of
>operational range you might request for your fly off period. The other
>thing is your fly off area. This is at their discretion. It can be vary
>anywhere from 25 to 100 miles. Since your plane is not a bullet they
>probably give you a 35-50 mile radius unless you suggest something
>different, so you better address it before they decide. Bring up the
>subject when they reach that point. You might be able to convince them to
>give you a bigger box or different center point other than Aero Country to
>provide a better operational area. (YOUR HIDDEN MOTIVE here is to allow
>you the ability to go to more airports. You'll get tired of flying around
>in circles for 40 hours.) Get out your sectional and see what works out.
>Example 50 miles radius from Aero Country versus some distance from say
>from a VOR or another airport. Check out what you would need to cover the
>airports in the area, to the West Lakeview, Northwest Regional, to south
>Mesquite and Lancaster, East and North, Sherman Muni, Farmerville (Short
>Stop). You might not get everything you ask but if you ask nice and like
>you know what your talking about, they'll be more willing to agree.
>
>First people usually like to familiar handling characteristics and head out
>to the runway. Any time you do this, you and the airplane better be
>prepared to fly, even is you only intend to doing a little taxiing. It
>should have adequate fuel to fly, seat belts fastened, chart, so forth.
>Once in the air, stay within gliding distance of field for a while until
>you very comfortable that its going to keep running. If you should lose
>the engine on take off, get nose down, keep your speed, fly the airplane
>and most of all do not make a 180 back to the runway, that kills more
>people. Until you very comfortable I would avoid any high performance
>(steep nose up high angle of attach) takeoffs. If the engine quits, you'll
>be to close to stall speed and may not get the nose down fast enf.
>
>I have mixed emotion about high speed taxi runs. I hear people always make
>comments about doing this and yet heard and seen the end results. They
>suddenly find themselves off the ground, panic because in their mind their
>not ready to fly, and slap it hard back down on the runway and bust up the
>airplane or after they lose control. Tail up high speed runs can quickly
>become a dangerous thing to do because of being close or at flying speed and
>very susceptible to wind gusts or bumps. If you get off the ground it
>probably better to keep flying thus the reason behind having it ready for
>flight.
>
>Here's something about the Kolb to be aware of. Most Kolbs will take off
>fine at reduced power settings. Because they have a high thrust line they
>tend to stick to the ground, cut the power suddenly and they pop lose. If
>you make a high speed run, chop the power suddenly, it may balloon off the
>ground on you unexpected. This came from a very dependable source (Kolb
>FireStar pilot). I have a few hours in tail owning Citabria, if you do any
>taxi runs make sure you cut power back once its starts rolling, you'll be
>surprised that it will not take much and you'll be airborne before you know
>it. Last thing, fly when your ready, don't let peer pressure push you into
>it before your really ready.
This was part of a post from a friend. I thought parts of it were worth
passing on. Hope others find it helpful.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (98%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
Here are the results for or against having KOLB in the subject line:
21 people said "Keep it!"
2 people said "I don't care..."
1 person said "Nuke it!" (the original requestor)
2 people asked me to remove them from the list...
Since the vote was 21-1 for keeping the feature, the feature stays...
Hopefully this is not too much of a problem for anyone.
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Mike Holland's photos have moved |
Greetings,
Just wanted to let you know that Mike's building photos have moved to a
new home. Since I was running out of space on my site, Will Uribe has
posted them for us. He even went to the trouble of labeling them rather
than just using numbers like I did. You can access the pictures through
Will's page at:
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
In SlingShot building news, it looks like I should have both wings
finished during my 2 week marathon. After about 1 week, all the ribs,
leading and trailing edges, and drag struts are finished. Still got a
bunch to do, but it's looking good.
Has anybody seen a small battery around 3mah that can be charged from
the regulator? Spruce has one, but it seems to say that you have to use
a special charger (as in plugged into the wall) and not the on-board
unit. Charging current limits are probably the issue, I'm guessing. I
think I've been breathing too much aluminum dust. While using my Black
an Decker cordless drill, I started thinking about the Versa-Pak battery
idea and all the different items that now use it. Could a Versa-Plane be
too far behind? Hmmmm....
One last note. I'm still thinking about adding a BRS. Probably, I
would get the 750 model. What's the cheapest price anyone's seen for
this? The old EIS info shows a price of $1445 which is the lowest I've
seen. I can only hope their current price is lower, rather than higher.
Should have that info any day now.
Gotta go do real work today. Odd that I get the week off, but have to
work Saturday.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Kolb pilots
I would like to adjust idle mixture on 503 it
stops at less than
3500 rpm in 40*F Temp. I would like some advice.
Thank you sinc Duane
Zollinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Holland's photos have moved |
Do your mean 3-miliAmpHour or a 3-AmpHour. Around the Dallas area
there are several places that sell rechargeable batteries. I assume
your looking for a 3-AMP-Hour. Go to Radio Shack, they have a 4-AH
(sealed lead acid, AKA gel cell low maintenance) unit which most of
the house alarms companies refer their customers to when there alarm
batteries go on the fritz. If your need something unique, there is a
place in Richardson Texas that specializes in batteries. I haven't
got the name here with me but if any needs it email me and I get the
info on it. They wholesale batteries.
There is also another company which displays at Oshkosh which handles
all kinds of NiCads and rechargeable batteries. For you with King
KX-99 hand helds, they sell direct replacement for the battery packs.
A friend told me they sold them right after I gotten one from
Gulf-Coast, a good out-fit by the way.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Mike Holland's photos have moved
Date: 11/16/96 9:33 AM
snip...
Has anybody seen a small battery around 3mah that can be charged from
the regulator? Spruce has one, but it seems to say that you have to use
a special charger (as in plugged into the wall) and not the on-board
unit. Charging current limits are probably the issue, I'm guessing. I
think I've been breathing too much aluminum dust. While using my Black
an Decker cordless drill, I started thinking about the Versa-Pak battery
idea and all the different items that now use it. Could a Versa-Plane be
too far behind? Hmmmm....
snip...
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 277 Rotax engines |
Does any one know where I might be able to find new or rebuilt Rotax 277
engines?
I was told that Rotax stoped production of the 277 engines some time ago. If
any one knows of a company that sells new or rebuilt 277 engines, I would
love to here from you!!
XCOBRA(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Do you like "" in kolb list email subjects? |
Jeff,
Keep "KOLB"!!!
As I travel a lot away from Australia, I have to make international calls each
day to get my mail. The "KOLB" feature is excellent to avoid paying heaps to
download to the laptop all the great stuff that can wait till I return home.
Pls retain it!
Pete Gorton FSII (well actually FS .75)
BISI Pty Ltd 17 Dunstan Parade, PORT MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA 3207
+61 3 9645 2116, fx +61 3 9645 2143, Mobile 0419 601 579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | FAA Inspection - N582CC |
Hi All...
The inspection took about 2 hours and went fairly smoothly. I had two
inspectors (4 eyes) - one was a trainee. Both were very good and very
helpful. Saying that is to say that they did find a few things that needed
correcting - and correct I did - Pronto! - right then and there what I
could. It is always good to have someone else who is knowledgable look your
project over... and boy did they look! Anyway, it is over now.... whew!
...and I have a "special airworthiness certificate" to hang in my Kolb MK III.
They gave me a nice 50 nautical mile radius for testing (excluding all the
"B" class airspace around here) for the next 40 hours. After that is
completed, I can apply for a "repairman's certificate" and do my own annual
inspections. First things first though. Gotta get the pilot ready and fly
off those hours.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Re your question concerning the static port. I got a blade style cherokee
pitot with the static port built right in at Lakeland for about $10.00. I
riveted a little plate on the rearward hoop that supports the nose cone and
then bolted the blade onto that. I think it will work nicely. And its
mounted far back enough that if I ever went up on the nose skid that it
wouldn't get wiped off. Static air is a good thing to have, it keeps your
ASI honest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Covering questions |
Interesting questions about covering. I put drain holes along the trailing
edges on my Mark III wings a pair of holes on either side of the trailing
edge rib connections. You want the water that might pond by the rivets to
drain out. I HIGHLY recomend this. I helped a friend recover an old
ultrastar that had been hangared for about 10 years. When we took the cover
off I was really troubled to find that the aluminum had no zink chromate and
there was alot of disimilar metal corosion around the rivets. Rivet were
brown and the surrounding aluminum was white. After that, like a true
obsessive, i dipped every rivet in my wings in zinc chromare and pulled it
with the paint still wet. Then I sprayed all the bare aluminum. Dennis said
that was a bit much, but it makes me feel better.
I put a bunch of the plastic rings for the inspection covers in my
wings. Two in each bay and two on the inboard end of the wing. You may
never have to cut them open. But cutting a hole and replacing it with one of
those metal covers is alot less trouble than recovering a whole wing. Plus
after a while you'll want to look inside your wing at the annual, and having
made a provision for that makes sense.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
>
>Re your question concerning the static port. I got a blade style cherokee
>pitot with the static port built right in at Lakeland for about $10.00. I
>riveted a little plate on the rearward hoop that supports the nose cone and
>then bolted the blade onto that. I think it will work nicely. And its
>mounted far back enough that if I ever went up on the nose skid that it
>wouldn't get wiped off. Static air is a good thing to have, it keeps your
>ASI honest.
>
As some of you may know, I've been on this list for a while as a
FireFly wannabe. I'm *very* happy to report that my wannabe status
has been revoked. I bought a used FireFly last week. =)
Anyway, the previous owner bought fairly el-cheapo instruments.
($99 SkySports Altimiter, etc). He said that the ASI always reads
high (stall at 35-37mph indicated, for example). I realize that to
safely fly, you really only need to get used to the indicated airspeeds,
but I'd much prefer an accurate reading, mostly for navigational
purposes, but also because an incorrect instrument is one of those things
that eats at me, and seems to be screaming to be fixed. :)
I don't know a whole lot about ASI's, so I'm not sure what to do to
make it read an accurate speed. The builder has a tube running from the
pitot tube to a port on the back of the ASI, and coming off the other port
is a tube which has a piece of metal pitot tubing stuck into it. This
metal tube is clamped at the end (I think there is a small hole in the end).
It isn't actually hanging out in the airstream, just hanging in behind the
instrument panel. Is this the proper way to handle the static tube?
If not, how would you suggest I change it to get a more accurate reading?
He blamed the incorrect reading on cheap instruments, but after reading
some of the posts here, I wonder if this reading can't be made more accurate.
Thanks very much in advance!!
-Jon-
.-------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 |
| stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 |
| http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * |
|-------------------------------------------------------------------|
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------'
* == For Sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Bentley" <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Barry.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM, Ray.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM,
Heather.Cardy(at)Bentley.COM, Bob.Christ(at)Bentley.COM,
gabe(at)Geopak.com (Gabe Norona), littlek(at)adage.win.net (Keith Little),
Bill.Wandersleben(at)Bentley.COM
| Subject: | More Progress, More Pictures |
I've posted another series of pictures to show the progress on my Mark
III. I've now got the wiring basically done (as much as can be done
without the gap seal, or the wings covered.) See:
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly
The plan is to mount a control panel overhead in the gap seal. Dick
Kuntzleman built a panel that will be enclosed in a metal box, and
says he will consider making this a commercial product if there is
interest. Kuntzleman Electronics can be reached at 610 326 9068, and
they also make the hot box mentioned in page 38 of the current Mark
III construction manual and shown on my web page.
The EIS shown is from Grand Rapids Technologies, and includes their
Fuel Flow Option. They can be reached at 616 531 4893.
Neither Kuntzleman nor Grand Rapids have a web page that I know of.
The prop installed is a temporary one - I plan to install a better one
when it arrives from Kolb.
I hope to start up the engine soon - it needs a coolant overflow
bottle, gas, oil, and a few bolts tightened...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: FAA Inspection - N582CC |
In general what did they find that you corrected?
>----------
>From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling[SMTP:striplic(at)flash.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 1996 5:10 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: FAA Inspection - N582CC
>
>Hi All...
>
>The inspection took about 2 hours and went fairly smoothly. I had two
>inspectors (4 eyes) - one was a trainee. Both were very good and very
>helpful. Saying that is to say that they did find a few things that needed
>correcting - and correct I did - Pronto! - right then and there what I
>could. It is always good to have someone else who is knowledgable look your
>project over... and boy did they look! Anyway, it is over now.... whew!
>...and I have a "special airworthiness certificate" to hang in my Kolb MK
>III.
>
>They gave me a nice 50 nautical mile radius for testing (excluding all the
>"B" class airspace around here) for the next 40 hours. After that is
>completed, I can apply for a "repairman's certificate" and do my own annual
>inspections. First things first though. Gotta get the pilot ready and fly
>off those hours.
>
>Later,
>
>Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
>striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
> Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings,
There's been a lot of talk about static ports and accuracy of ASI's
recently. Remember that the pitot system is important too. Also, due
to the way the pitot system works, the least accurate mode is near stall
speed when the relative wind isn't flowing straight into the pitot tube.
Airspeed indicated at near stall probably won't ever be correct, but as
long as it's consistant, you can still use it to judge where the stall
will occur.
How is everyone determining the accuracy of their ASI? The best way I
know of, would be to use a GPS or Loran. The procedure would be to
measure the ground speed at enough different headings to figure out
which way the wind is blowing. Once that is determined, make a run into
the wind, and one with the wind while noting the ground speeds. The
average of the two will be your airspeed. The same thing can be done
with a stopwatch and landmarks on the ground, but it's hard to find
known landmarks that conform with the wind direction.
Dennis mentioned recently, that Aircraft Spruce sells an L shaped
pitot/static probe (about $16) that looks promising. He said that you
could probably mount it on the bottom of the nose, back far enough that
the tip doesn't quite extend beyond the nose. He conceded that it would
be dead meat if you nosed over, but you'll probably break less of them
than the people who bump into it when it sticks out of the front of the
plane. I don't think he's tried this arrangement yet, but it seems to
me like a good option. Hmmmm... maybe he'll hurry up and send my cage if
I promise to test it for him :-)
As for SlingShot construction. It appears that the wings will be
complete by the end of this week. I wish I could decide whether I want
a BRS or not. At least it isn't quite as bad as the great engine debate
:-)
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
> has been revoked. I bought a used FireFly last week. =)
congratulations!
> pitot tube to a port on the back of the ASI, and coming off the other port
> is a tube which has a piece of metal pitot tubing stuck into it. This
> metal tube is clamped at the end (I think there is a small hole in the end).
> It isn't actually hanging out in the airstream, just hanging in behind the
> instrument panel. Is this the proper way to handle the static tube?
> If not, how would you suggest I change it to get a more accurate reading?
> He blamed the incorrect reading on cheap instruments, but after reading
> some of the posts here, I wonder if this reading can't be made more accurate.
>
i've posted this before, but it is applicable again...
On my firestar i've simply left the static port on the back of the
ASI with no tubing at all, i.e. it is not routed to a "better" location
for static air pressure. With this, my ASI is right on. I'd look
closely at the ASI for any calibration screw (wild guess), and also
consider driving the ASI down the highway, comparing to the car speedometr,
to see how far off it is at low and high speeds. If you want, i can
look and see what brand of ASI i have.
i don't blame you for wanting it to read correctly ...it would bug me
too. Good luck.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Sun-N-Fun 1994 ? |
There is a company in Florida that will modify the landing to make it
taller, it also retracts and is meant to be used with a single float. I
saw a Kolb with this in the completions section of kit planes a couple
of months ago, I thought it looked good and wrote the owner, he
responded with a ad that came out of ultralight flyer for this company
which I cannot seem to find now.
>----------
>From: Dr. Bob Brocious[SMTP:brocious(at)jcc-uky.campus.mci.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Thursday, October 31, 1996 3:03 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Sun-N-Fun 1994 ?
>
>All,
>I believe it was Sun-N-Fun 94 where I saw a Kolb Mark III (I think) that
>prefectly fit my idea of the plane I want to build. What set it apart
>was the extended landing gear and over sized tires. Anybody know who's
>plane this might have been or where I might find a picture of it? It
>was at the Kolb booth at the ultralight field.
>Thanx for any help you can provide.
>Bob Brocious
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot/static |
> to the way the pitot system works, the least accurate mode is near stall
> speed when the relative wind isn't flowing straight into the pitot tube.
...unless you set the pitot and calibration to be most accurate at stall
speed instead of cruise.
> Airspeed indicated at near stall probably won't ever be correct, but as
> long as it's consistant, you can still use it to judge where the stall
> will occur.
>
> How is everyone determining the accuracy of their ASI? The best way I
> know of, would be to use a GPS or Loran. The procedure would be to
GPS would be cool, however, not necessary. Cruise speed calibration
can be known in just a few flights in a straight line with little or
no wind. I just did the rate*time=distance check both directions
for an airport 44 miles away a couple times and i lucked out with my
calibration being just right. Stall speed calibration could be more
difficult unless you're able to fly a long enf known distance in a
straight line, at stall speed, and no appreciable change in altitude. I
wonder if flying 5 ' off the ground along a runway (a known distance?) at
5 mph above stall would work. Somebody else, even on the ground, could
time the passes allowing the pilot to concentrate on a consistent and
safe low-speed pass. I never bothered cuz i lucked out on this too.
My stall IAS is 27, close enf to book numbers, so if the book and the
IAS agree, good enf.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
kolb(at)hpmail2.ftw.mot.com
| From: | David Hempy <hempy(at)ket.org> |
| Subject: | 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar - January 25 |
Becca Hamrin , grangran2(at)aol.com,
deanes(at)ndlc.occ.uky.edu (Si Deane), tsoileau(at)ket.org
1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar
Saturday, January 25, 1996, Lexington, KY
The singular purpose of this seminar is to promote the safety of every
ultralight pilot in and around Kentucky. Newcomers to the sport and old
pros are encouraged to attend. General Aviation pilots will learn more
about a facet of aviation that may be new to them. This Safety Seminar is
one of the ways Kentucky aviators are working to reinforce the image of
safety conscious ultralight pilots to the general public and other aviation
entities.
Master of Ceremonies:
Brian Collins - 27 WKYT-TV Meteorologist, aerobatic pilot, and
retired ATC.
Speakers will include:
Scott Severn - former president of TEAM Aircraft
Mark Smith - USUA BFI, Rotax and Quicksilver service/support
Jim Stephenson - CEO of Aero Sports Connection
plus 1 or 2 additional speakers pending confirmation.
Topics will include:
Weight & Balance & Surprises
Rotax Maintenance
and other safety oriented topics.
We will be doing something new at this safety seminar...the last period will
be a Panel Q&A Session, with all the speakers responding to audience
questions and concerns.
Date:
Saturday, January 25, 1996, 9am - 4 pm
Registration from 8:30 to 8:50am
Location:
Kentucky Educational Television (KET)
600 Cooper Drive, Lexington, KY
(Behind the UK Football Stadium)
There is no charge for the seminar, but donations make it all possible.
There will be lots of prizes for you donated by generous industry sponsors.
Lunch will be available on-sight. (...and we promise to get more food this
year!)
For more details:
Alan Laymon 606-724-5965 (days), kyultralight(at)juno.com
David Hempy 606-258-7164 (evenings and day of the event), hempy(at)ket.org
I want to take this time to especially thank all of our industry sponsors.
It is heartwarming to be in a community that cares so much about the safety
of its pilots this much. I encourage each of you to patronize the companies
that make this Safety Seminar possible. We'll telling you more about our
sponsors soon.
If your company is interested in becoming a sponsor, we would be delighted
to distribute your materials and raffle off any prizes you send. Casey
Stiles can answer any questions concerning sponsorship:
Casey Stiles - (606)734-2032
460 Palisades Rd
Harrodsburg, KY 40330
Blue (safe) Skies,
-dave
--
David Hempy Distance Learning WWW programmer
Kentucky Educational Television
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Sun-N-Fun 1994 ? |
>
>All,
>I believe it was Sun-N-Fun 94 where I saw a Kolb Mark III (I think) that
>prefectly fit my idea of the plane I want to build. What set it apart
>was the extended landing gear and over sized tires. Anybody know who's
>plane this might have been or where I might find a picture of it? It
>was at the Kolb booth at the ultralight field.
>Thanx for any help you can provide.
>Bob Brocious
>
Did it have a red and yellow "starburst-type" paint scheme?
If so, it is probably John Hauck's Mark III. He and that plane are
fairly well known for circumnavigating the US, amoung other things.
If that is the plane you're talking about, it shouldn't be difficult
at all to find pictures, video, and articles about it.
-Jon-
.-------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 |
| stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 |
| http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * |
|-------------------------------------------------------------------|
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------'
* == For Sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot/static |
Russell & all...
>but you'll probably break less of them
>than the people who bump into it when it sticks out of the front of the
>plane.
For those of you who do put the pitot on the tip of the nose, consider
cutting the tube off about 2.5 " out from the nose and splicing it with a
piece of flexible tubing to the piece that extends on out. The combination
will bend to the side when "muscle kiddies" grab it or even adults
accidentally hit it. Make an over sleeve of aluminum tubing that friction
fits fairly snugly (I sliced a 1.5" long piece length ways taking a sliver
out of one side and reduced the diameter in the vice to the proper friction
fit. When on the ground slip the collar forward to uncover the joint.
Before you fly slip the collar over the joint to stiffen the entire pitot
tube. Maybe add it to your preflight check list right by remove pitot cover
:^)...
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun-N-Fun 1994 ? |
>There is a company in Florida that will modify the landing to make it
>taller, it also retracts and is meant to be used with a single float. I
>saw a Kolb with this in the completions section of kit planes a couple
>of months ago, I thought it looked good and wrote the owner, he
>responded with a ad that came out of ultralight flyer for this company
>which I cannot seem to find now.
Bob, Jason & all...
Not to confuse the issue, but there may be another company doing the same
thing. They have been doing it for a year or more. I agree it really looks
sharp for those who want amphib.
Lakeland Ultralights, Inc.
P.O. Box 223
Masury, Ohio 44438
They use the Full Lotus monofloat with wing outrigger pontoons and
retractable mains. Sorry, I don't have their phone.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
| Subject: | Re: pitot/static |
>Russell & all...
>
>>but you'll probably break less of them
>>than the people who bump into it when it sticks out of the front of the
>>plane.
>
>For those of you who do put the pitot on the tip of the nose, consider
>cutting the tube off about 2.5 " out from the nose and splicing it with a
>piece of flexible tubing to the piece that extends on out. The combination
>will bend to the side when "muscle kiddies" grab it or even adults
>accidentally hit it. Make an over sleeve of aluminum tubing that friction
>fits fairly snugly (I sliced a 1.5" long piece length ways taking a sliver
>out of one side and reduced the diameter in the vice to the proper friction
>fit. When on the ground slip the collar forward to uncover the joint.
>Before you fly slip the collar over the joint to stiffen the entire pitot
>tube. Maybe add it to your preflight check list right by remove pitot cover
>:^)...
>
Hmmm, interesting...
The person who I bought my FireFly from used tubing as you suggest above
to allow the pitot tube to be banged into without breaking, but no outer
sleeve to make it rigid, such as on your Mark III. Could the pitot tube be
flexing in flight, and throwing off the ASI?
-Jon-
.-------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 |
| stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 |
| http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * |
|-------------------------------------------------------------------|
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------'
* == For Sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu (Charles Henry) |
| Subject: | ski attach points |
i am in the process of putting LEAF skis on my kolb firestar
if someone has put skis on their firestar i would be interested in getting
comments on what to use for attach points for the safety and check cables.
at this point i am planning to use the crossbrace that the front of the seat
is mounted to and the tabs that the lower end of the wing strut attaches to.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: pitot/static |
Gee, Russ I'll help make up your mind. The one disadvantage of a
pusher engine configuration is if something should come loose or be
left laying on the engine and goes through the prop. If the prop
looses part of a blade which does happen, it can become violently
unbalanced and if left to continue will leave the airplane. causing a
major CG problem. At that time its chute time. This all happens very
rapidly which brings up another point.
Your engine kill switch should be in immediate reach so you can kill
the engine quickly, before you have to pop the chute. Someone had
mentioned they were considering placing the ignition switch in a
difficult to access location in fear of it being bumped. I have flown
may hours with ignition switches right in front of me on the panel
when they could be immediately reached with no problem. In an
emergency scenario like above you don't' have time to fumble around
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: pitot/static
Date: 11/20/96 12:14 PM
Greetings,
There's been a lot of talk about static ports and accuracy of ASI's
recently. Remember that the pitot system is important too. Also, due
to the way the pitot system works, the least accurate mode is near stall
speed when the relative wind isn't flowing straight into the pitot tube.
Airspeed indicated at near stall probably won't ever be correct, but as
long as it's consistant, you can still use it to judge where the stall
will occur.
How is everyone determining the accuracy of their ASI? The best way I
know of, would be to use a GPS or Loran. The procedure would be to
measure the ground speed at enough different headings to figure out which
way the wind is blowing. Once that is determined, make a run into the
wind, and one with the wind while noting the ground speeds. The average
of the two will be your airspeed. The same thing can be done with a
stopwatch and landmarks on the ground, but it's hard to find known
landmarks that conform with the wind direction.
Dennis mentioned recently, that Aircraft Spruce sells an L shaped
pitot/static probe (about $16) that looks promising. He said that you
could probably mount it on the bottom of the nose, back far enough that
the tip doesn't quite extend beyond the nose. He conceded that it would
be dead meat if you nosed over, but you'll probably break less of them
than the people who bump into it when it sticks out of the front of the
plane. I don't think he's tried this arrangement yet, but it seems to
me like a good option. Hmmmm... maybe he'll hurry up and send my cage if
I promise to test it for him :-)
As for SlingShot construction. It appears that the wings will be
complete by the end of this week. I wish I could decide whether I want
a BRS or not. At least it isn't quite as bad as the great engine debate
:-)
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
| Subject: | Altimiter Options |
I am putting together my instrument panel for a Firestart and am running
out of space on the pod. I need a two-pointer altimeter because I need
better accuracy than I can get with a single pointer. I have not been
able to find a 2" altimeter with two pointers, only the 3" size. With
the tach/hobbs, EGT/CHT, and ASI, This will not leave me enough room for a
compass. I don't have one now in my QS and havn't really needed one, but
it would be nice to have. Has anyone seen a 2" two-pointer (or digital)
altimeter?
In case I can't find one, has anyone mounted a compass other than on the
panel? I was thinking of putting one on the pod out in front of the
windscreen.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimiter Options |
Bill Weber (DVNS) wrote:
>
> I am putting together my instrument panel for a Firestart and am running
> out of space on the pod. I need a two-pointer altimeter because I need
> better accuracy than I can get with a single pointer. I have not been
> able to find a 2" altimeter with two pointers, only the 3" size. With
> the tach/hobbs, EGT/CHT, and ASI, This will not leave me enough room for a
> compass. I don't have one now in my QS and havn't really needed one, but
> it would be nice to have. Has anyone seen a 2" two-pointer (or digital)
> altimeter?
I looked through all the catalogs I have and can't find one either.
Most of the digital altimeters are made to fit a 3 1/8 hole as well. If
you don't already have your other instruments, you might want to look at
the EIS unit. They have an altimeter/VSI option available in addition
to all the other functions that the unit has. This is what I'm getting
for the SlingShot. It'll cost $650 and include everything but ASI and
compass.
Speaking of ASI's.... has anyone seen an ASI that is lighted? I
haven't found any in the catalogs I have.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
I have about 100 hours on wheel-skis. My wheels are permanently protruding
about 1 1/2 inches beneath the skis. They work good until two people try to
get airborne from a field with a considerable amount of snow on it. I fly
above the Saskatchewan, Canadian prairies. Anyone using penetration
wheel-skis in deep snow should have a 912 or 618. I have a 582.
There was a great article in one of the EAA magazines about four or five
years ago describing ski fabrication and installation. I will list a few
points on how I mounted my skis:
1)Make your fuselage attachment points strong, so if you nose over and your
rear cables tighten up the cables or fittings on the skis will break. It
would be very difficult to fix a broken attachment point on the fuselage
when the covering is on.
2)I welded rear attachment points about one foot above the wing strut
attachment point. This fitting is a heavy wall tube that is welded between
two fuselage tubes at a point where they attach to the vertical tube (this
vertical tube extends from the landing strut up to the wing fitting). The
heavy wall tube has an internal diameter of 1/4 inch. The inside end has a
1/4 inch aircraft nut welded to it. A large 1/4 inch flat washer is welded
over the outside end of the heavy wall tube. This washer lays just beneath
the fabric. When the skis are removed for the summer, all that is visible
is a faint outline of a large flat washer with a 1/4 inch whole in it. I
attach the upper end of the rear cables by inserting a 1/4 inch bolt and
tightening it up. I use locktight on it as the locking properties of the
nut were lost during welding.
3)My attachment points for the front cables are at the location described by
Charles Henry. These points work good on my Mark 111. I welded a steel
plate between the tubes at the front seat tube. I attach my cables to this
plate with a 1/4 inch aircraft bolt. This plate is just behind the fabric.
During summer operation all that is visible is a 1/4 inch whole in the fabric.
That's about it, if anyone has difficulty with my descriptions send me an
e-mail.
Kim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimiter Options |
On Fri, 22 Nov 1996, Bill Weber (DVNS) wrote:
> I am putting together my instrument panel for a Firestart and am running
> out of space on the pod. I need a two-pointer altimeter because I need
> better accuracy than I can get with a single pointer. I have not been
> able to find a 2" altimeter with two pointers, only the 3" size. With
> the tach/hobbs, EGT/CHT, and ASI, This will not leave me enough room for a
Is altitude part of what you get with a GPS? If so, is that an accurate
option? (if it is an option it would be independent of atm pressure, plus
give you the horizontal location most people are after from GPS.)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
The topic of instruments came up, perhaps a little in put here would
help everyone.
I was looking for a good 2-1/4" VSI (vertical speed indicator). Want
one with 0-2000 ft/min. with 100 ft division marks up to the 2000 ft.
Wanted it to take some measurements on climb performance but decided a
2-1/4 would be best if I decided to install it later in my plane. If
you know of a source of good VSI email me. Thanks
What I found when talking to various vendors, there is a wide range of
quality on these things. Some don't even sell them any more because
of the high failure rate, other one have 100 ft division marks to 500
or 1000 foot then switch to 500 ft resolution. Some of the
instruments are imported from China. Interesting, I would think the
labor is the major cost, where the rest going. Must be some good
margins being absorbed by someone.
I am interested in what people have found to be durable and reliable
in the field. This includes all the instruments. Your response can
save others a lot of pain. Myself I have learned, cheap doesn't
always provide the lowest cost. I prefer to buy good quality first at
fair price than buying junk first thinking I'm saving and later having
to replace with what I should have brought the first time thus costing
much more. Tell us what is working well and the source. Let's
support the vendors that are selling us good product at fair price and
avoid the ones that aren't.
Help me out here, what do have:
Compass :
Altimeter :
2-Pointer :
1-Pointer :
Airspeed :
Vert. Speed Indicator :
2-1/4" :
3-1/8" :
Tach:
Hobbs:
EGT & CHT:
Single instrument :
Dual function Inst. :
Fuel Flow:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimiter Options |
Ben Ransom wrote:
> Is altitude part of what you get with a GPS? If so, is that an accurate
> option? (if it is an option it would be independent of atm pressure, plus
> give you the horizontal location most people are after from GPS.)
I have a handheld Garmin 55AVD that's a few years old. It says
something in the manual about vertical accuracy not being as good as the
horz. I don't know if that situation has been improved with the newer
units though. Mine generally agrees within a few hundred feet of the
altimeter. For an UL this might be just fine, but if it's an
experimental, I wonder if the FAA inspector would accept a GPS as an
altimeter. I plan to consider it a backup to the EIS. The more useful
thing about a GPS, is the heading info you get. I will be required to
have a compass, but I might mount the compass behind the tilted GPS. I
could see it if needed as a crosscheck, or when the GPS isn't installed
(which will be never), the compass will be in full view.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)capitalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimiter Options |
>Russell Duffy wrote:
>I have a handheld Garmin 55AVD that's a few years old. It says
>something in the manual about vertical accuracy not being as good as the
>horz. I don't know if that situation has been improved with the newer
>units though. Mine generally agrees within a few hundred feet of the
>altimeter. For an UL this might be just fine, but if it's an
>experimental, I wonder if the FAA inspector would accept a GPS as an
>altimeter. I plan to consider it a backup to the EIS. The more useful
>thing about a GPS, is the heading info you get. I will be required to
>have a compass, but I might mount the compass behind the tilted GPS. I
>could see it if needed as a crosscheck, or when the GPS isn't installed
>(which will be never), the compass will be in full view.
>
Russell,
The manual is correct, the vertical accuracy is less than the horizontal. In
the order of 2.5 times worse (don't quote me, since I don't have it with me
at home, but I think the published spec is 100m 2 sigma horizontal and
250m 2 sigma vertical, when Selective Availability is active) if I remember
correctly. Though I have never seen it that far out. Read in the manual about
DOP and compare the HDOP, VDOP and PDOP at any one time, you will get an idea
of how they relate.
One thing you should be careful about when using GPS for vertical guidance is
to be sure of what reference datum your receiver is using. The receiver can
be set up to give you either ellipsoid height or mean sea level height.
Depending where you are on the globe these two can be a fare bit different.
Having said all that I think a good (or any) GPS would be the first non
required
nav instrument I would put in the stack. And given some of the talk about ASI
the list has seen lately GPS would be a great way to check speed.
Just my $0.02 worth. If you would like some detailed technical info just send
me an e-mail I will dig it up.
Adrio Taucer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Altimiter vs GPS |
Guys and gals,
I have played with a number of GPS: Sony, Garmin, Apollo etc, and I bought a
Precedus.
IMHO, They are all great for telling you WHERE your going, but under no
circumstances would it ever replace an altimeter. the height is "for fun only".
Its to do with the non precision fuzzing that Uncle Sam inserts into the signal,
I believe.
The usual GPS altitude is plus or minus 3-500', and the vertical speed
indication can be a real doozy!
On Fri, 22 Nov 1996, Ben Ransom wrote:
>On Fri, 22 Nov 1996, Bill Weber (DVNS) wrote:
>> I am putting together my instrument panel for a Firestart and am running
>> out of space on the pod. I need a two-pointer altimeter because I need
>> better accuracy than I can get with a single pointer. I have not been
>> able to find a 2" altimeter with two pointers, only the 3" size. With
>> the tach/hobbs, EGT/CHT, and ASI, This will not leave me enough room for a
>
>Is altitude part of what you get with a GPS? If so, is that an accurate
>option? (if it is an option it would be independent of atm pressure, plus
>give you the horizontal location most people are after from GPS.)
>
> --------|--------
> Ben Ransom (*)
Pete Gorton FSII bisi pty ltd
17 Dunstan Parade, Port Melbourne 3207 AUSTRALIA
fx 61-3-9645 2143
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Intercoms & Headsets |
To All...
I've been trying to decide for at least a year how I might set up my ICOM
A21 handheld and my Radio Shack CB through an intercom. A friend of mine
was able to do it, but he had to purchase two fairly expensive patch cords.
His set up seemed to work just fine. The mics of each radio are
incompatable with each other and there are some other problems. I read
every post I could find on the subject. One fellow said he had a solution
to the problem (and included a very simple schematic) that worked. I talked
to Jim Weir (of RST) about it and he was doubtful it would work or if it did
not very well. Jim know his stuff so I decided not to try it.
Recently I saw an ad in USUA or Kitplanes about an inexpensive intercom that
was made just for the ICOM radios (eliminating the need for the patch cord).
It also has an aux. audio in-put plug (that I hope to use to bring just the
audio from the CB). I believe, with this intercom, the pilot can transmit
only (maybe with a Y splitter cord that could be changed to both) on the
ICOM, but either could use the CB's own handheld mic to transmit and both
could hear the CB through their headsets. The brand of the intercom is
Flightech and they make two models depending on which ICOM you have. I also
got two Flightcom DX4 headsets and Aircraft Spruce made me a little better
deal on all three. I will let you know how this combination works out.
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Fri, 1 Nov 1996, Mark Grabski wrote:
Hi Mark,
sorry for the long delay, but thought maybe better late than never...
> Hello All,
> I've never owned an UL but I've been interested in them for
> awhile now. I've flown with an instructor once in a
> Challenger. I am interested in the Kolb's and could use some
> advice.
>
> 1) Is it feasible to store a Kolb UL in a trailer at home?
yes, i do it. The up sides: inexpensive, secure, and easy to sneak
out and tinker with maintenance or improvement ideas. Down side: Longer
set-up times means you won't go flying for a 1/2 hour on a spur of the
moment. I hope to also rent a corner of a steel shed at a nearby farm
with a strip and keep my plane there maybe 50% of the time. I'll keep
the plane folded, and save the trailer load-up and take-down time.
I'll probably have to force any rent money at all on the good ol' timer
there, so hopefully have the best of both worlds ...home storage and
secure storage at an airstrip.
>
> 2) Is it possible to trailer the UL to any small airport
> without a control tower, prepare it for flight, fly,
> break it down, and trailer it home? Would this be
> too much of a hassle?
...the down-side as above. I do it, but it's not worth it unless
i'm gonna go for at least an hour flight or am extrememly desperate
for a flying fix. Times:
load plane and 'stuff' onto trailer: 20 minutes
drive to airport 10 minutes
setup, preflight 45 minutes
-
take-down, load onto trailer 30 minutes
...you also mentioned control tower. ULs not permitted at controlled
airspace w/out explicit permission. Some clubs have worked out
arrangements, but to start that on your own would be formidable.
> 3) Is there anyway to get official flight instruction in
> a Kolb?
already answered? ..."official" doesn't hardly exist w/ ULs.
HOwever, you could dash over to Kolb and get instruction there in
the real thing.
>
> 4) I'm concerned about the build times and the space required
> to build it. Is it possible to order preassembled kits?
QuickBuild option ...~$2000 plus. ...missing out on a lot of
fun IMHO.
>
> I can afford an UL but the hanger space in this area
> (Raleigh, NC) is limited and expensive. I'm also not
> the most mechanically inclined so the build time on
> the Kolb's is a bit intimidating.
The time is not an impediment if you are motivated. The result is
the best UL money (and time) can buy.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
This may sound cheesy, but if you have no other choice you may want
to look into it. My dad bought the "Avocet Vertech Pilot" watch and
it is pretty neat. The altimeter is rather accurate. I paid close
attention to it while my brother was flying around and it was never
very far off at all. If you want a simple altimeter for your
ultralight you might want to try it out. I have seen it for about
$114. but you could probably find an altimeter out there for that
price, but its just a thought.
Another thing is that GPSs are not accurate at all for altitude.
Yes, the watch is more accurate. :)
Just a thought,
Brandon
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Townsend <laminex(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Someone please give me the e-mail address of the administrator so I can be omitted
from the list.
----------
From: Ben Ransom[SMTP:ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu]
Sent: Monday, November 25, 1996 5:47 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Need Advice
On Fri, 1 Nov 1996, Mark Grabski wrote:
Hi Mark,
sorry for the long delay, but thought maybe better late than never...
> Hello All,
> I've never owned an UL but I've been interested in them for
> awhile now. I've flown with an instructor once in a
> Challenger. I am interested in the Kolb's and could use some
> advice.
>
> 1) Is it feasible to store a Kolb UL in a trailer at home?
yes, i do it. The up sides: inexpensive, secure, and easy to sneak
out and tinker with maintenance or improvement ideas. Down side: Longer
set-up times means you won't go flying for a 1/2 hour on a spur of the
moment. I hope to also rent a corner of a steel shed at a nearby farm
with a strip and keep my plane there maybe 50% of the time. I'll keep
the plane folded, and save the trailer load-up and take-down time.
I'll probably have to force any rent money at all on the good ol' timer
there, so hopefully have the best of both worlds ...home storage and
secure storage at an airstrip.
>
> 2) Is it possible to trailer the UL to any small airport
> without a control tower, prepare it for flight, fly,
> break it down, and trailer it home? Would this be
> too much of a hassle?
...the down-side as above. I do it, but it's not worth it unless
i'm gonna go for at least an hour flight or am extrememly desperate
for a flying fix. Times:
load plane and 'stuff' onto trailer: 20 minutes
drive to airport 10 minutes
setup, preflight 45 minutes
-
take-down, load onto trailer 30 minutes
...you also mentioned control tower. ULs not permitted at controlled
airspace w/out explicit permission. Some clubs have worked out
arrangements, but to start that on your own would be formidable.
> 3) Is there anyway to get official flight instruction in
> a Kolb?
already answered? ..."official" doesn't hardly exist w/ ULs.
HOwever, you could dash over to Kolb and get instruction there in
the real thing.
>
> 4) I'm concerned about the build times and the space required
> to build it. Is it possible to order preassembled kits?
QuickBuild option ...~$2000 plus. ...missing out on a lot of
fun IMHO.
>
> I can afford an UL but the hanger space in this area
> (Raleigh, NC) is limited and expensive. I'm also not
> the most mechanically inclined so the build time on
> the Kolb's is a bit intimidating.
The time is not an impediment if you are motivated. The result is
the best UL money (and time) can buy.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Mon, 25 Nov 1996, bkearbey wrote:
> ultralight you might want to try it out. I have seen it for about
> $114. but you could probably find an altimeter out there for that
> price, but its just a thought.
Brandon,
Now that we're talking cheesy... I use a stick-on altimeter from an auto
parts store. I think it cost about $12! It works plenty fine enf,
probably up to 50' error. It doesn't even look too bad, as i've stuck
it to the floor in front of the stick linkage, saving my panel for
"real" instruments. I never did consider an altimeter to be very
important anyway. ...i guess that's obvious.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
On Tue, 26 Nov 1996, Ben Ransom wrote:
> Brandon,
> Now that we're talking cheesy... I use a stick-on altimeter from an auto
> parts store. I think it cost about $12! It works plenty fine enf,
> probably up to 50' error. It doesn't even look too bad, as i've stuck
> it to the floor in front of the stick linkage, saving my panel for
> "real" instruments. I never did consider an altimeter to be very
> important anyway. ...i guess that's obvious.
In most places, an altimeter is not particularly important and 100'
granularity is fine. Its nice to have so you can tell other pilots you
are flying with your altitude. Also gives you a better idea how far you
can glide if your engine quits.
However, for me an accurate altimeter on the panel is very important. I
fly from a controlled airfield and out pattern altitude is set at 300'.
Therefore I need 20' accuracy right in front of me while in the
controlled area. Nothing cheesy or hard to see/use is appropriate in this
situation.
Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip(at)netline.net (skip staub) |
Ben and All,
>Now that we're talking cheesy... I use a stick-on altimeter from an auto
>parts store. I think it cost about $12! It works plenty fine enf,
I too use the Avocet wristwatch when flying my Ultrastar. It works just
FINE! In addition, it's fun to see your altitude when riding in your car. :)
I've been following the many messages concerning instruments with some
amusement. I'm particularly thinking of all the concern about accurate
airspeed indicators. IMO, the accuracy of the instrument is NOT relevent.
You'll never get an accurate airspeed reading unless you have a flying pitot
boom and very accurately placed (usually multiple) static ports. The point
really is that the airpeed indicator SHOULD NOT be replied upon for
accuracy. The attitude of your flying machine with respect to the relative
wind (alpha) is what you're really concerned with. In times past, I've
flown a F-8 Crusader on and off of a carrier, both day and night, with no
airspeed indicator physically installed (not Navy approved, but under the
circumstances it made sense :).
In addition, installing to many unnecessary instruments adds weight and cost
to your
machine -- to say nothing of the added maintenance. If you really wish to
find out how fast you're traveling across the ground carry a handheld GPS
with you.
Happy Thanksgiving to All.
Regards,
Skip
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aw457(at)rgfn.epcc.Edu (Guillermo Uribe) |
Does someone know the fuel burn and range of the FireStar II with the
Rotax 503 and 10 gal.?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
>Ben and All,
>
>>Now that we're talking cheesy... I use a stick-on altimeter from an auto
>>parts store. I think it cost about $12! It works plenty fine enf,
>
>I too use the Avocet wristwatch when flying my Ultrastar. It works just
>FINE! In addition, it's fun to see your altitude when riding in your car. :)
:) I've been hoping that my current watch will die when I have some
excess cash. I've wanted one of those for a while, myself... :)
>
>I've been following the many messages concerning instruments with some
>amusement. I'm particularly thinking of all the concern about accurate
>airspeed indicators. IMO, the accuracy of the instrument is NOT relevent.
>You'll never get an accurate airspeed reading unless you have a flying pitot
>boom and very accurately placed (usually multiple) static ports. The point
>really is that the airpeed indicator SHOULD NOT be replied upon for
>accuracy. The attitude of your flying machine with respect to the relative
>wind (alpha) is what you're really concerned with. In times past, I've
Is this a military term for angle of attack? (Not a flame, just
curious.) If so, you're right, as far as keeping your aircraft
(or "vehicle", as the case may be ;) in the air, AOA is all you need
to know.
>flown a F-8 Crusader on and off of a carrier, both day and night, with no
>airspeed indicator physically installed (not Navy approved, but under the
>circumstances it made sense :).
>
>In addition, installing to many unnecessary instruments adds weight and cost
>to your
>machine -- to say nothing of the added maintenance. If you really wish to
>find out how fast you're traveling across the ground carry a handheld GPS
>with you.
True, a GPS is probably the only sure method of determining your ground
speed. However, there are times when you want actual airspeed. As
Bill Weber noted in the altimeter "thread", he needs an accurate altimiter
for flying into and out of controlled airports. The same is true of an
airspeed indicator. Often times when flying in these situations, you will be
asked for your current airspeed, or asked to hold a particular airspeed. A
GPS is great for navigation, but it doesn't get the job done here.
Just another opinion... :)
-Jon-
.-------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 |
| stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 |
| http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * |
|-------------------------------------------------------------------|
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------'
* == For Sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Altimiter Options |
I have a garmin gps 55. I have flown all over with it in a mark II. It has
an altitude function, but not one that you would want to stake your life on.
Its kind of a pain in the ass and if you have the altitude screen up you
can't see the navigation screen. Stick with the regular guage in my opinion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Look for 4 gallons per hour at about 6000 rpm. That was in a Mark II with a
three bladed prop. A little more than the book calls for.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 26 Nov 1996, Guillermo Uribe wrote:
> Does someone know the fuel burn and range of the FireStar II with the
> Rotax 503 and 10 gal.?
Cruising at the same speed and gross weight in a FS II would net nearly
the same fuel burn rate whether a 447 or a 503. i get about 2.6 gph in
my Firestar KXP with 447, cruising at 57mph (statute) and 4800rpm, with
Warp prop. In fact, the 503 might even be slightly more fuel efficient
because of it's dual ignition.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
hi pilots what
wax do i use ontop of poly-tone paint ?
thanks duane zollinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General questions |
Greetings,
This is a reply to some questions that I received off-line. I though it
might be useful to send it via the list so everyone could see. The
original sender will know who he is. BTW, I just posted 50 new pictures
on my page from the vacation building spree. Enjoy.
> Do you find the use of a drill press essential or is the hand drill
> sufficient?
You don't need the drill press at all. Like all tools, it's handy
sometimes, but certainly not essential.
> If you had a choice would you get a bench belt sander or a wheel grinder
> with a sanding wheel?
A belt sander is one of the tools that's listed as useful, and I thought
seriously about buying one. What I have is very nice, Avery (and
probably several other places) sells a 6" Scotchbrite wheel that's great
for smoothing edges of aluminum. It's expensive at $40, but it'll last
for several planes. I use the medium grade wheel on a bench grinder.
> Did you get any documentation or instructions from Kolb on how to certify the
> Sling Shot in an experimental category?
Nope. I talked to Dennis about this, and it's on the list of things
that they would like to provide if they ever get time to put it
together. I bought a book from Sporty's called "How to License a
Homebuild Aircraft". It seems to make the procedure sound fairly
straightforward. Beware that the first step requires the engine serial
number, and receipts for all the kits, so you'll have to wait to start
the paperwork until you have everything.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Carb Ice and BRS chutes |
Hello again,
During my most recent BRS dilemma, I spent some time reading through the
NTSB accident reports for all the light planes that I could find listed.
In the 3 years worth of data that I read, there was:
One "save" using a recovery chute (brand of chute is never listed).
This was a Mini-Max that lost some control function due to a battery
that rolled into the stick mechanism. The chute was activated after
maneuvering to a clear area. The pilot survived with "serious"
injuries. We have no way of knowing whether the pilot would have
received greater or lesser injuries if he had attempted to land the
plane.
Three "no-saves" where chutes were installed but not successfully used
to save the life of the pilot. 1- stall/spin, chute never activated. 2-
stall/spin, chute activated but too late to fully deploy. 3- Wing folded
doing aerobatics, chute tangled.
About 10 cases where a chute might have been useful. In the majority of
these cases, the pilots survived. Also, the majority of the accidents
were very avoidable.
>From all this, I've decided not to install a BRS. The SlingShot is
overbuilt for the way I plan to fly it, especially with the small
engine. There's always some unavoidable risk, but I don't personally
feel the risks are unacceptable.
One of the primary things that many of these reports emphasized was the
old lesson we were all taught: "Fly the Plane". Many needless accidents
due to "pilots failure to maintain proper airspeed, resulting in
stall/spin". (stepping down from soapbox now)
The surprising thing that I noticed in the NTSB reports, was the number
of "engine failures" that were concluded to be "probable carb icing".
My GA training has taught me that the primary time to get ice, is during
low power setting like landing. What surprised me is that many of these
reported icing problems are occurring during full throttle climb. I'm
starting to wonder if I shouldn't install one of the electric carb
heaters that LEAF sells. Has anyone heard of carb ice being much of a
threat on Rotax engines?
Apologies if any of this seems morbid. I'm just trying to learn from
past accidents.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
29 Nov 96 15:30:01 GMT+6
29 Nov 96 15:29:49 GMT+6
| From: | morris verlander <morris(at)gulflink.com> |
| Subject: | russell duffy/spins |
hello.
re russells' mail discussing chutes and spins...
i am wondering if anyone has experience with spin recovery
in the firestars. i have been wondering about this as
i am about to begin construction on my firestar.
in the old days, a flight instructor [liscensed aircraft] would
not allow a student to solo until he was sure his student was
comfortable [!] with the spin and recovery from it...
assuming we all feel the machine is stressed to safely enter
a spin, it seems to me a good idea to do this at a safe altitude
and under controlled circumstances. the idea, conventionally, is to
practice recovery with the intention of recovering gracefully with a
minimum loss of altitude. NOT AN ENDORSEMENT!! :)
anyone have comments?
morris.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)capitalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: russell duffy/spins |
morris verlander wrote:
>......
>in the old days, a flight instructor [liscensed aircraft] would
>not allow a student to solo until he was sure his student was
>comfortable [!] with the spin and recovery from it...
>
>morris.
>
I have a question re that comment. Is spin entry and recovery part
of the Private License requirements in the US. I know it is here in
Canada. From what I read on this list it seems not but I would like
to know for sure to satisfy my curiosity.
Adrio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Adrio Taucer wrote:
> I have a question re that comment. Is spin entry and recovery part
> of the Private License requirements in the US. I know it is here in
> Canada. From what I read on this list it seems not but I would like
> to know for sure to satisfy my curiosity.
>
> Adrio
Spins aren't required to get a license in the US. They used to be years
ago, but more people were being killed in the training than in actual
accidents, so they stopped requiring it. It's still a pretty
controversial topic. I've got a private license and I've never done a
spin. On several occasions, I've asked instructors to do them, and no
one will. Usually I'm told that the flight school doesn't want their
gyros messed up. That may not be the real reason though.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Spins aren't required to get a license in the US. They used to be years
ago, but more people were being killed in the training than in actual
accidents, so they stopped requiring it. It's still a pretty
controversial topic. I've got a private license and I've never done a
spin. On several occasions, I've asked instructors to do them, and no
one will. Usually I'm told that the flight school doesn't want their
gyros messed up. That may not be the real reason though.
>>
I knew to be CFI they were required to get some spin training for their check
ride back in 1985. For a private pilots license it is not necessary, never
got spin training from an instructor . I did get a pilot with a Texan T6 show
me a spin recovery although I was riding in the back. The T6 has gyros the
pilot can cage so they don't tumble.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
Forwarded message:
From: rad(at)pen.net (Russell Duffy)
Sender: owner-kolb(at)firewall.intranet.intrig.com
Reply-to: rad(at)pen.net
To: kolb(at)intrig.com
Date: 96-11-30 12:47:13 EST
Adrio Taucer wrote:
> I have a question re that comment. Is spin entry and recovery part
> of the Private License requirements in the US. I know it is here in
> Canada. From what I read on this list it seems not but I would like
> to know for sure to satisfy my curiosity.
>
> Adrio
Spins aren't required to get a license in the US. They used to be years
ago, but more people were being killed in the training than in actual
accidents, so they stopped requiring it. It's still a pretty
controversial topic. I've got a private license and I've never done a
spin. On several occasions, I've asked instructors to do them, and no
one will. Usually I'm told that the flight school doesn't want their
gyros messed up. That may not be the real reason though.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dirksen(at)fcs.net (Dirksens) |
>.....more people were being killed in the training than in actual
accidents....
Maybe. My uncle had never spun an airplane when he pushed the right
rudder,in a right turn, to get back to the center line while turning short
final. He was in a fully loaded Mooney and distracted by a flapping open
cargo door. Result: the worst.
After getting my private from a CFI who didn't do spins either, I
inadvertantly entered one while practicing slow flight in a fairchild
PT-19. Surprised (stunned really) I sat there like so many have, the earth
spinning madly counter clockwise, holding the stick back and to the left.
After a turn and a half or so I realized that I Looked just like a drawing
in Langewisch's Stick and Rudder. Not able to think of what to do I pushed
the stick forward and was amazed to feel the airplane flying again.
Thankfully I had started all this with plenty of altitude. My CFI happily
obliged when I told him of my adventure and asked for some training. We
even used a Piper Tomahawk. No problem. After many subsequent hours of spin
training and practice I have no intention of spinning any airplane again,
but I have a firm confidence that my body knows what to do immediately if
that entry begins.
I wonder if my uncle's first reactions were like mine were and if he might
have had a faster response to losing the lift of that right wing had he
been spin trained. I won't be able to ask him his opinions.
Mike Dirksen 707 965-2057 427 Manzanita Drive Angwin CA 94508
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | A couple easy questions |
Hi again,
Just about ready to start covering the tail, and thinking ahead about a
couple of things.
1- Where does the standard Rotax regulator mount? Is there a place to
mount it on the engine, or do you have to run the noisy AC current into
the cockpit?
2- When you're rigging the wings, would it be preferable to use a water
level, or one of the new digital "Smart Levels"?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
HI Happy Thanksgiving
I have cable op brakes with with handle mounted on left seat
tube of Firestar ,does anyone know where to get a daul setup without
going to hydraulics?
Thanks Duane Z.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Carb icing and spins |
I fly a Kolb Mark 111 over the Canadian prairies all months of the year.
I had no carb heat for the first year of winter flying. It cost me $600.00
for two new pistons and a rebore job. High humidity and freezing
temperatures resulted in ice particles hitting my pistons. The intake sides
of both pistons were scuffed and there were scuff marks on the intake sides
of the cylinders. Several snowmobile shops said the same thing happens to
snowmobile engines when they ingest snow. Snow or ice particles wash the
lubrication away from the pistons and scuffing results.
I built my own carb heat by routing hot coolant to my carb intake throats.
My system is similar to the hot water system offered by Leaf. My initial
winter flights without carb heat on damp days would cause my engine to run
rough. My motor has run smooth on humid winter days with carb heat installed.
Spins:
I have never spun my ultralight because I do not have a parachute and I do
not know anyone with experience spinning a Mark 111. I have practiced in
my mind many times the recovery procedure from a spin. This is a poor
replacement for spin training. I am a strong believer in spin training!!
My 18 year old daughter has her glider and private power pilots license.
She did a considerable amount of spin training before getting her private
power license. She is now working towards her commercial license. I
believe she is a better trained safer pilot due to her spin training.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General questions |
To All...
>I bought a book from Sporty's called "How to License a
>Homebuild Aircraft". It seems to make the procedure sound fairly
>straightforward.
I have not seen the Sporty's book. It may explain many of the common
questions that builders may have about the proceedur. The FAA provides a
complete (but perhaps confusing in some areas) packet with step by step
instructions on how the "experimental" certification works including all the
necessary forms. You can obtain it through the mail by writing or calling
the FAA.
The only confusing part to me was the "program letter" the FAA now requires.
I discovered it is not a "big deal" and they even include an example of such
a letter in the packet.
Be sure to keep good records on the building proceedure (pictures and/or
videos with you in some of them is better, logs, calendars, inspections,
tests). Get an EAA "tech counselor" if possible and any other Kolb builders
you can find to inspect your project before cover and before flight for
safety and quality constructon.
If anyone wants a blank weight and balance sheet or a copy of the "program
letter" that I prepared as examples to use to help make your own, send me a
SASI and I will mail you copies.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Licensing Information (W&B, Program letter.) |
I've ordered the book from Sporty's (1 800 LIFTOFF, Item M484A,
$14.95).
I'd love to get both of the items you mention below, but what is your
mailing address?
...
I have not seen the Sporty's book. It may explain many of the common
questions that builders may have about the procedure.
...
If anyone wants a blank weight and balance sheet or a copy of the
"program
letter" that I prepared as examples to use to help make your own, send
me a
SASI and I will mail you copies.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
After I tried out spins in my Firestar, anybody I mentioned it to said,
"intentionally?!" Well, yes of course! I'm here aren't I? I was chicken
to do much as the Firestar manual says that it develops into a rapid
rotation. So initially I just did spin entries. After 4 or 5 of these
I held the stick back and rudder in just long enf to do a full turn.
I could tell right away that the Firestar does in fact spin rapidly, and
the entry felt rapid and semi-inverted, which is not unusual for some
planes. I had only done spins in one other plane, a TaylorCraft, with an
instructor, and it's spin was much slower in entry and in rotation. It
really felt like no big deal at all. (TCraft have much more fuselage
area to slow down the spin i guess.) Another characteristic about the
Firestar spin is its sudden entry. If you push the rudder at stall,
over you go ...right now! The main thing i learned from trying spins
is not the "training" of recovery technique, but rather that if i ever
unintentionally get into a spin down low, it would be over soon. I am
all that much more reverent toward airspeed in the pattern -- especially
in turns, and stay away from "exciting" maneuvers down low. I'm overdue
to get up there and do some more to (in theory) get "comfortable" with
them. BTW, I did my first spins starting at 4500 AGL, far above what's
necessary, but that's the point. I would advise people to go do some
spins with an instructor before trying them on your own, as you can't
be sure how your brain will react in spite of how much visualization
you've done.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Licensing Information (W&B, Program letter.) |
>I'd love to get both of the items you mention below, but what is your
>mailing address?
>If anyone wants ..(snip).. send me a
>SASI and I will mail you copies.
How dumb of me not to include my address... sorry.
Cliff Stripling
14700 Marsh Lane, Apt. 821
Addison, Texas 75234
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | iemwr(at)agt.gmeds.com ( Mark W. Rinehart 230-2567 |
AGT/8896)
I am considering building a Mark III with the intent of getting a BFI and instructing
in it. I would like to structure this as a business. I need some advice
on the whether to license the Mark III as an Experimental or leave it unlicensed
and fly it within the constraints of USUA's exemption. By the way, I am
a licensed private pilot. I think that if I go the exemption route I can legally
charge for both my time (as an intructor) and for use of the airplane. However,
if I license it as an Experimental, I don't think I can charge for the
use of the airplain. Anyone out there know about this?
Mark Rinehart
Mark III BFI "wanna-be"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
Some of our earlier videos showed an UltraStar doing some aerobatics: a loop,
"snap roll" and a spin; if you have one of these videos you can see what a
spin might look like. The FireStar would be similiar.
We still do have this video available for the curious, and those hard up for
entertainment. It is called "The Early Days - UltraStar" $7.00 incl.
shipping (cheap price, but good video)
Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Do not build it as an experimental there are all sorts of ways to break
the law and open yourself up to legal actions using experimental
registered airplanes for any kind of hire. The only set back of going
USUA is that "every" flight with a passenger must be for training
purposes. I dont know what the rules are for flying alone.
>----------
>From:
> iemwr(at)agt.gmeds.com@acuityinc.com[SMTP:iemwr(at)agt.gmeds.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, December 02, 1996 9:46 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Need Advice
>
>
>I am considering building a Mark III with the intent of getting a BFI and
>instructing in it. I would like to structure this as a business. I need
>some advice on the whether to license the Mark III as an Experimental or
>leave it unlicensed and fly it within the constraints of USUA's exemption.
>By the way, I am a licensed private pilot. I think that if I go the
>exemption route I can legally charge for both my time (as an intructor) and
>for use of the airplane. However, if I license it as an Experimental, I
>don't think I can charge for the use of the airplain. Anyone out there know
>about this?
>
>
>Mark Rinehart
>Mark III BFI "wanna-be"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark(at)sun.sws.uiuc.edu (Mark Anliker) |
What kind (or how large) of a workbench can you (builders) recommend for the
building of a Kolb (FSII)? Do the Kolb plans include any suggestions or
plans for an appropriate building platform?
*****************************************************
Mark A. Anliker Voice: 217-333-5383
Assistant Hydrologist Fax: 217-244-0777
Illinois State Water Survey
*****************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Need Advice |
I can't imagine the FAA chasing you down on solo operations in a legit
2-seat UL trainer. However, if your log book and/or student records look
thin, then you might have reason to sweat. If you build it yourself
with good records and photos, you could fly it as a UL trainer and then
register it later on in the Experimental category if you so desired.
Conversely, I would imagine going the other direction might be tough.
As an aside, from seeing other threads in the past on USUA UL instruction,
it is not a real money maker, although that may not be your intent anyway.
-Ben Ransom
> Do not build it as an experimental there are all sorts of ways to break
> the law and open yourself up to legal actions using experimental
> registered airplanes for any kind of hire. The only set back of going
> USUA is that "every" flight with a passenger must be for training
> purposes. I dont know what the rules are for flying alone.
> >----------
> >From:
> > iemwr(at)agt.gmeds.com@acuityinc.com[SMTP:iemwr(at)agt.gmeds.com@acuityinc.com]
> >Sent: Monday, December 02, 1996 9:46 AM
> >To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> >Subject: Need Advice
> >
> >
> >I am considering building a Mark III with the intent of getting a BFI and
> >instructing in it. I would like to structure this as a business. I need
> >some advice on the whether to license the Mark III as an Experimental or
...clipped
> >
> >Mark Rinehart
> >Mark III BFI "wanna-be"
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu (Charles Henry) |
| Subject: | ski cable length |
What aircraft and ski angles did you use to set the cable lengths for the skis?
the FAA manual suggests +5 degrees and -20 to - 25 degrees from level flying
attitude, but that seems a lot since the kolb sits quite level on the ground.
is a tail ski needed? if so what did you use?
any tips on landing on snow and estimating height? i understand fresh snow
and overcast days are tough.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za |
Does any one know why the never exceed speed is 90 mph . Is it to do with flutter
?
Thanks
Marco
marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | phill_magnuson(at)hp.com |
How well do the folding wings on Kolb planes work? How
are the control linkages arranged to make this possible?
How much does it cost to rebuild a Rotax engine at the
300 hr rebuild time?
Thanks
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
earlb67142(at)aol.com, , ,
dlively(at)communique.net, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com, ,
firesta259(at)aol.com, kolb(at)intrig.com, ,
m.speed(at)worldnet.att.net, ,
| From: | Bill Little <blittle(at)communique.net> |
TO ALL RECEPIENTS:
THIS IS TO ADVISE YOU THAT MY "E" MAIL ADDRESS HAS CHANGED AT HOME.
THE NEW ADDRESS TO BE USED IS:
Note: Notice the Capital "B". Please direct all correspondence to me
at the new address immediately.
thank you
Bill and Susan Little
Bill Little
N1618B
Kolb Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings,
I'm only a few days away from ordering my Ivo prop for the SlingShot.
I'm still trying to determine if the in-flight adjustable option is
worth the cost/weight/complexity in terms of performance improvements.
So, my question to anyone who has one is:
If you use the in-flight adjustment feature to optimize climb and
cruise, do you get a noticeable improvement over just picking one
compromise setting and leaving the prop there?
I figure there has to be some improvement, but if it's only 50 fpm climb
and 2mph cruise, it won't be worth it to me.
Thanks for any info you might have.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Kearbey <kearbey(at)cnc.net> |
Fellow Kolb builders and flyers,
As my son, Brandon, has said, our MarkIII
is done and flying! We have made many
additions to
our bird so I thought some comments about
it might be interesting and maybe
informative and
helpful to others.
First, we put a standard aircraft
flip-flop comm radio and intercom. This is
working very well and
we have little or no ignition noise to
deal with. We have done no insulating of
spark plug wires or
P-leads. We are using BR8ES spark plugs
which are the resistor plugs.
Second, we put the little 3X4 EIS system
in it as it monitors all the engine
functions in one small
instrument. It works very well.
Third, for experimental reasons, we put on
a three blade in air electrically
adjustable prop.
Others expressed the concern that the
water temperature might go out of sight
when we
increased the pitch on the prop to slow
the engine RPM. In fact, the water
temperature virtually
doesn't change one degree even though the
engine is under more load. What we tend to
do is
throttle back to 6000 upon reaching
altitude and then reduce the RPM more by
bringing the prop
back to 5500. We see only the slightest
increase in airspeed but a definite
reduction in noise
level. Over the next few weeks we intend
to run fuel consumption test in various
configurations
to see what difference, if any, the pitch
change makes.
Fourth, we purchased the full enclosure
kit. There is a serious air leak at the
top of the lexan just
below the front edge of the gap seal. My
wife made a piece of fabric to go in there
and it is
velcro'd in place. Solved the problem.
Next, we got muffler heater from Leading
Edge Airfoils. It
is working quite well. There are two
problems relative to the heater. One, The
price is way too
much for no more than it is. There can't
be more than ten dollars worth of material
in it. They
raised the price to something like
$169.00. Two, there are virtually no
instructions with the kit
other than what you see in the catalogue
advertisement. For most applications, it
will require
some metal cutting to make fit and then,
to get the best airflow, some high temp
RTV around all
the attachment points. The whole thing
doesn't weigh more than half a pound.
Bye the way, we have checked our airspeed
with a GPS and at 5500 rpm we are cruising
at 75-
80 MPH. The plane flys like a dream,
climbs like a bandit (800-1200 fpm), and
lands very gently
with or without flaps.
This has been a rather verbose discourse
and there are other things I could talk
about but I am
sure that those who haven't moved on
already are getting sleepy.
Final words, it is a neat bird, we really
enjoy it.
Bob and Brandon Kearbey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
I have seen a number of comments on winter flying during the last month. I
have about 15 years of winter flying. The last six have been with Kolb
aircraft. I am now flying a Mark 111. Winter flying offers some of the
best flying. There are no thunderstorms or harsh thermals. Most snow
covered fields and frozen lakes are good landing sites.
You must keep warm to enjoy cold weather flying. I have a Rotax 582 on my
Mark 111. I enclose the "carburetor side" radiator with cardboard and
multiple layers of fiberglass strapping tape and then another layer of duct
tape. I also insulate the radiator hoses with plumber's water pipe
insulation (the cheep foam stuff that you buy at a hardware store for home
waterline insulation). A word of caution - Make sure everything is
securely fastened! I also cover up to one quarter of the remaining rad
behind the muffler with duct tape. Close attention must be paid to the
water temp gauge when covering up radiators. I have built a warm air
collector that fastens to the back side of the radiator that is beside the
muffler. A three foot length of 2 1/2 inch "cat" aeroduct flexible ducting
routs the warm air into the cockpit.
I have had excellent results with the above heater. I have used it for over
80 hours.
During the first winter's operation I did not use cardboard to insulate the
carb side rad and no plumber's insulation on the hoses. I have noticed an
additional increase in cabin heating with the extra insulation. My last
flight was on December 3, 96. It was 0 degrees F. I was up for one hour
and did not get cold.
Sears sells an automotive 12 volt car seat warmer that works well when laid
on the ultralight's seat. It keeps your back and bottom toasty warm. I
initially used the car seat warmer before I had my warm air heater
installed, it felt so good I just keep using it. I have run two seat
warmers with no battery drain, the rotax alternator keeps up.
Carb heat is an important feature to have installed when flying in cold damp
weather.
I made my own. I cut two 3 3/4 inch square sheets of .063 aluminum, one for
each carb. Cut a hole in the center of each sheet. The hole must be just
large enough for the carb air cleaner flange to pass through. Weld a four
inch length of 1/2 inch 6061 aluminum tubing along one side of each sheet.
The tubing should have a thickness of .058. I used a scrap of tubing from
the Mark 111 jury struts. The ends of the tubing can be threaded with a 1/8
inch pipe threader. I purchased small hose fittings from a plumbing store
that can be screwed into the ends of the tubing. I routed hot water from
the center plug in the 582's head through the first carb heater on the rear
carb then through the front carb heater and then back to the water pump. I
used good quality 1/4 inch automotive gas line hose and have had no problems
with it. The water pump will have to be drilled and tapped for a 1/8 inch
brass hose fitting. The plug in the center of the head is 1/8 inch pipe
thread.
The 3 3/4 inch sheet should be made to fit tightly on the carb. I welded a
3/8 inch square length of aluminum along the bottom edge of the carb heater.
It is about 1 inch long and is centered along the bottom edge. I drilled a
3/16 inch hole through it lengthwise. I then used a hack saw to cut a slit
from the large center hole all the way through the middle of the 3/8 inch
aluminum stock. An AN 3 bolt can now be inserted in the 3/16 hole and
tightened to secure the carb heater to the carb.
The air cleaner can now be installed and safety wired. The air cleaner is
moved out .063 of an inch when the carb heaters are installed.
The first winter that I flew my Mark 111 with the 582 Rotax I ended up
scuffing my cylinders from ingesting ice particles. The rebuild cost me
over $600.00. I have had no more problems after installing carb heat.
That's it enjoy winter flying!
Kim
Saskatchewan, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: General questions |
You really should take a look at the FARs. This whole business of program
letters is only for the experimental exhibition category. Unless you want to
be under that set of rules for some reason you are probaly better off under
just the regular vanila homebuilt experimental rules.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
I think you're much better off going the ultralight trainer route if you want
to do trainign with a Mark III. I know a guy who has a BFI and gives lessons
with a Mark II, if you're interested I could give you his name.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: General questions |
To all...
>>You really should take a look at the FARs. This whole business of program
>>letters is only for the experimental exhibition category. Unless you want
>>to be under that set of rules for some reason you are probaly better off
>>under just the regular vanila homebuilt experimental rules.
Yes and No. I don't claim to be an expert on the FARs. I was just trying
to jump their hurdles and get my plane certified. The program letter
required of me is evidently not the same as what you are thinking about.
Perhaps what they required of me is mis-named and just a simplified
variation of the true full blown program letter. Whatever and however
confusing, that is the name that they gave to it in a printed statement in
the packet of materials mailed to me requiring that it be submitted along
with the application. I called and talked to them to get clarification
about this very topic before submitting my packet of materials prior to
inspection. It WAS required of me for my application for the "plain vanilla
experimental category" and plain vanilla is what I got.
What they wanted in the letter that they call the "program letter" includes
a statement of how you plan to use your plane in the experimental category,
your home base airport and the area that you would like to operate in during
the first 40 hours, the tests and maneuvers you intend to accomplish during
the 40 hr period, the performance specifications of your plane, a list of
the documents you are including with the application or have on hand to
present at inspection, and perhaps any other information you feel important
(like directions to the location of the airplane or whatever. They even
provide an example of one in the packet. I just copied most of the example
as it applied to my plane and included it.
I received certification for "experimental" of another plane I built about 4
years ago and no mention of such a letter was required then. I think this
is a fairly recent change (or addition). Everything else was as before
except that I found out that if you are applying for "repairman" your
request (application) will not be processed until after your 40 hrs has been
flown off.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | firestar 2 BRS problem |
I have the newest 700 pound cannister BRS chute for my Firestar 2. The
instructions show where to mount it on the main top tupe, with the two
brackets , 1in front and 1 in the rear of a cross tube. (if you have one you
will know what I mean) well anyways with it mounted here it is in the way for
the 503 oil injection pump. How has anybody fixed this short of discarding
the oil pump. and if so how.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Re[2]: Advisory Circular 20-27-d |
FYI:
Got this message from the FAA web site.
BTW: Last week I received kit # 1 of my FireStar II.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
Guy) writes:
<< Subj: Re[2]: Advisory Circular
Date: 96-12-09 09:35:42 EST
From: Adriana.Guy(at)faa.dot.gov (Adriana Guy)
To: WillU(at)aol.com (Return requested), Webmasteravr(at)faa.dot.gov
(WebmasterAVR)
AC 20-27d, Certification and Operation of Amateur-Buildt Aircraft
is not yet available in the Internet. However, if you will send
me your mailing address I will be glad to mail you a paper copy.
Sincerely,
Adriana Guy, Aircraft Certification Service
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Re: Advisory Circular
Author: WebmasterAVR at AVR
Date: 12/9/96 8:58 AM
AIR-200, Aircraft Manufacturing Division, sponsored AC #20-27d,
Certification and Operation of Amateur-Built/ Aircraft (6-22-90).
I searched the FAA web site and did not find the file, so I am
forwarding your request to our Webmaster in Aircraft Certification.
Thank you for your interest in aviation.
______________________________ Reply Separator >>
Forwarded message:
From: Adriana.Guy(at)faa.dot.gov (Adriana Guy)
To: WillU(at)aol.com (Return requested), Webmasteravr(at)faa.dot.gov (WebmasterAVR)
Date: 96-12-09 09:35:42 EST
AC 20-27d, Certification and Operation of Amateur-Buildt Aircraft
is not yet available in the Internet. However, if you will send
me your mailing address I will be glad to mail you a paper copy.
Sincerely,
Adriana Guy, Aircraft Certification Service
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Advisory Circular
Date: 12/9/96 8:58 AM
AIR-200, Aircraft Manufacturing Division, sponsored AC #20-27d,
Certification and Operation of Amateur-Built/ Aircraft (6-22-90).
I searched the FAA web site and did not find the file, so I am
forwarding your request to our Webmaster in Aircraft Certification.
Thank you for your interest in aviation.
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Advisory Circular
Date: 12/8/96 12:25 AM
What is the URL for AC No. 20-27D?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | IVO Q-Adj. prop / Regulators |
To all...
After breaking in the 582 engine I reset the prop to 6350. This was my
experience with rpm changes vs. quick adjust revolutions from neutral pitch.
IVO 64" 3 bld Quick Adjust Max Static RPM
Neutral pitch 6800
1/2 turn counterclockwise 6500
7/8 turn counterclockwise 6350
1 1/4 turns counterclockwise 6250
2 turns counterclockwise 6000
I also discovered that I apparently lost the 12V supply from a brand new
regulator to the water temp and to the tach. I also noticed that when I did
a mag check that one mag would bounce the needle up 2000 rpm instead of
recording a slight decrease in rpm which actually occured. Does anyone know
if my assumption that the regulator is not working is correct and how would
that affect the way the tach is responding? Can the regulator be checked or
is the check to replace it. Any input from "old hands" with the "right
stuff" would be appreciated.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax carburation |
Hi,
Does anybody happen to know what the standard air-screw settings are for
the Bing carb used on the dual carb Rotax 503? I have a rather large
difference in EGT between cylinders (like 100 degrees F) at low power
settings and assume the idle circuit mixture is at fault. The air-screws
are both set at 1/2 turn as came from the factory.
Cruise EGTs are within 25 degrees - well within factory specs.
Thanks, Hank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Beckman" <bruce(at)marlin.innerx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax carburation |
100 deg F probably is not a big difference if you consider the low cooling
fan RPM and inline cylinder configuration. Be careful not to over-tune
other problems into a good setup. Respectfully.
----------
> From: Henry Fritze <HFritze(at)redstone.net>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: Rotax carburation
> Date: Wednesday, December 11, 1996 12:07 AM
>
> Hi,
>
> Does anybody happen to know what the standard air-screw settings are for
> the Bing carb used on the dual carb Rotax 503? I have a rather large
> difference in EGT between cylinders (like 100 degrees F) at low power
> settings and assume the idle circuit mixture is at fault. The air-screws
> are both set at 1/2 turn as came from the factory.
>
> Cruise EGTs are within 25 degrees - well within factory specs.
>
> Thanks, Hank
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Am mounting water skiis on Firestar I for snow use. Any info would be
helpful.
Mike Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Placed the final orders |
Hi again,
I just made Christmas brighter for all the mail order places by ordering
everything else that I need for the SlingShot.
I went ahead and got the in-flight adjustable IVO even though I'm still
not sure how much performance there is to gain. It's a 2-blade 66"
prop. If nothing else, I can cruise at a quieter RPM (between changing
brushes). Thanks to everyone for their comments.
For instruments, I went with the standard EIS analyzer, 3 1/8" ASI, 3
1/8" Altimeter, 2 1/4" compass, 2 1/4" G-Meter, small inclinometer, and
of course, my trusty GPS. In theory, this will all fit.
I also ordered an electric fuel pump. A backup pump has always been
standard equipment in the planes I've flown, so I thought I'd try to fit
it in here as well. Any comments on the reliability of the standard
pulse type pumps?
It sounds like my 3rd kit could be on the way before too long. Now if I
can just get work to leave me alone long enough to cover the tail...
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Use of Contributins to mail list. |
To the contributors to the Kolb mail list:
The Kolb mail list (kolb(at)intrig.com) has been a valuable source of
information to Kolb builders/owners, from Kolb builders/owners. It has also
been a valuable source of feedback to Kolb Aircraft, Inc. Kolb Aircraft
wishes to express sincere appreciation to Cliff Stripling, Jeff Stripling,
Motorola and Intrig Software for making this mail list possible.
Kolb Aircraft would like to use some of the posts to the Kolb mail list
(kolb(at)intrig.com) in the next issue of the Kolb Newsletter - a
non-electronic form of communication.. We have been copying some of, what we
consider to be, the more helpful email from our builders - information that
we feel will be generally helpful to Kolb builders and flyers. We are in
essence, expanding the circulation of this information and ideas to all Kolb
builders and owners - to those who dont have computers and email, etc.
Please let us know if you have any objections to our using any of your
email
to kolb(at)intrig.com. We have kept the name and email address of the
contributors and, if you wish, we could delete your name and address and keep
just the body of your text and simply list the letter as from one of our
builders. Or, if you wish, we can delete all of your contributions.
The Kolb Newsletter is sent free of charge to all Kolb owners - it is
sent
out entirely at Kolb Aircraft expense, and hopefully this helps communicate
our desire to keep in touch with Kolb owners and supply them with information
that may help them to fly more safely. This will be the second issue; the
first issue was sent our July of 1995. Hopefully, it will be sent out more
frequently in the future - we were aiming for every 6 months.
The contributions from the Kolb mail list (kolb(at)intrig.com) is a valuable
source of information for the Kolb Newsletter - your contributions to the
newsletter will be much appreciated!
Sincerely,
Dennis Souder
President, Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Kolb newsletter input |
Dennis, I have no objections to you using any of my posts, if needed.
Here is input for your consideration, for the newsletter:
The two reported incidents where Rotax 582 engine cases broke and engine
literally tore off the Kolb. The first one was mentioned in a "Education
thru Airror" in October EAA Experimenter. The second in a "Letter from
Readers" in December Experimenter. The second report attempts to explain
both incidents with the parachute bridal in the prop theory. Anything you
might add to this would be helpful.
The Ivoprop in-flight adjustable prop had (has?) some problems, at least
in rumor. If you have any facts from your experience or your builders, it
would help us in making the propeller decision.
Soliciting input from builders on their best innovations for Kolb aircraft,
one of which could be published in each newsletter.
Someone's homepage has a list of builder's tips that was pretty good.
Great idea to get the newsletter going!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
To All...
Today, I made a mount for my strobe up on the top of the verticle
stabilizer. I made it out of some scrap Lexan (flat on top with legs down
each side). It looks pretty good and can be seen from just about every
angle. I ran the wire down the hinge line under the hinge flaps (I have 4
per hinge) and under the gap seals that I installed. From there it runs up
the fuselage tube, then up between the fuel tanks to the engine's 12 V.
system. You can hardly tell the wire is even there.
I made a homemade ICOM antenna mount under the nose cone. I broke apart a
BNC connector and epoxied it back together sandwiching the fiberglass near
the rear of the cone, then ran a 7' length of cable back to the seat area.
The rubber ducky will be moved from the handheld to the BNC mount on the
outside of the nose cone pointing down and a little to the outside.
I am going to use a small (8 amp. or so) motorcycle battery I found
(cheapest and smallest one I could find) at Sam's Club and install it up
front in the rectangular area just in front of the rudder pedals on the
right side of center. I will pad it with some plastic bubble padding and
just tie it in with some nylon cord or maybe a bunge. I will route the
overflow tube overboard though a hole in the bottom of the nose cone. It
will also suffice for some of the ballast I need anyway. I will use this
battery as a seperate 12 V. system to power my radios and intercom and for
nothing else. I plan to remove the battery and charge it at home before
flights.
I am still trying to figure out a CB antenna for inside the nose cone. What
I have made (a coiled antenna the same length as the whip that came on the
original) is not working that well. I also have some foil tape that I used
on my Quickie that I might experiment with. George A. has an SWR meter so
that will have to wait until I can borrow it to make sure it is matched.
The last thing that will require some cutting is the ballastic chute
modification. I will weaken a route in the upper surface of the Lexan so
that the hang cable will not rip the whole thing loose if ever deployed.
I hope to be back at the airport tomorrow to do some more work. We have
some bad weather coming in on Monday and I am supposed to have a Cub lesson
on Tuesday... maybe not.
I think I have figured out a design for a very simple tail lift gadget made
from the slat of an old bed that will save my poor aching back when lifting
and moving my plane from and into the hanger. It will extend on out clear
of the the rudder and provide for a little more leverage. If the one I am
making works well, I will duplicate it out of metal and then it will be much
better.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Fusalage modification |
Hi Kolb enthusiasts;
I have a Kolb Mark 111 that is about five years old. Its fuselage has the
streamlined fairing at the rear area of the cage. When I visited Oshkosh
last summer and looked at all the Kolb aircraft some had the streamlined
rear seven inches of the fuselage sawed off. Dennis Souder told me that
they are no longer installing the fairing because the paint will not stay on
it because it is very close to the prop.
My question is: Has anyone sawed off their rear seven inches of the fuselage
fairing and if so have you noticed any difference in prop noise? I find
that my Mark 111 has excessive prop noise. I am tempted to remove my
fairing in hopes that it may lessen the prop noise. I have about 1 1/2
inches of clearance between my prop and the rear of the fairing. Removing
the fairing will increase my prop to fuselage clearance from 1 1/2 inches to
8 1/2 inches. However my fuselage will not be as streamlined.
I am running a three blade 66 inch Warp drive with a 582 Rotax and a 3 to 1
C drive.
Thanks for any help and a MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!
KIM
Saskatchewan, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neill Clayton-Smith <ncs(at)overthe.net> |
HI all,
I have recently got into ultralights and have been looking for my first
ultralight. I have done the USUA flying training. The Kolbs look very
nice but at the moment I havn't the space or time to build one. I keep
seeing the older ultrastar's advertised in UF. These planes are pretty
old. Would you consider buying and flying a plane that old? What would
you look for if buying one? How can the frame be checked since fabric
covers the plane? Any comments would be appreciated, I would prefer not
to have the wings around my ears on my first flight in the plane.
Regards
Neill.
________________________________________________________________________________
by spoke.ball.com (PostalUnion/SMTP(tm) v2.1.9c for Windows NT(tm))
| From: | gwaligro(at)ball.com (Greg Waligroski) |
Hello all,
I am interested in building a Kolb ultralight. I live in the Boulder
Colorado area and of course need to deal with that extra 5300 feet of
altitude and a 190lb pilot weight (okay maybe up to 200lbs after holidays).
The Firefly with the Rotax 447 looks as though it would be a good choice
for HP / climb considerations. From the literature it appears the Firestar
cannot be built as a true ultralight with anything larger than a 277. Does
anyone have any first hand experience with the Firefly as compared to the
Firestar? Any reccomendations regarding the purchase of the quick build
options on the flying surfaces (time is a consideration in my building
plans)?
Anyone flying Kolbs in the Denver area that I could talk to about flying in
this area would be nice too since I am recent transplant to this area.
Thanks in advance for any comments and have a tremendous holiday season!
Regards,
Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
by spoke.ball.com (PostalUnion/SMTP(tm) v2.1.9c for Windows NT(tm))
| From: | gwaligro(at)ball.com (Greg Waligroski) |
| Subject: | Tach reading problems |
This is in response to recent letter I read on the KOLB Email a week ago
regarding tachometer reading variations when switching mags.
>From a letter to the editors in UF magazine (July '95 I think) someone had
written in about tach readings increasing (up to 200rpm) when checking mags.
They eventually traced their problem to inadeuate grounding of the tach and
ignition system. Their problem was corrected by insuring the ground between
the engine and tach was good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
To All,
Why not use a maintenance free sealed lead acid battery rather than a
vented version. There are many sealed batteries available. You can
pick up a 4 amp hr sealed lead acid battery from Radio Shack. They
also have bigger ones. These are the one used in alarm systems. Work
great for your application. Maintenance free sealed batteries are the
only way to go.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List:
Date: 12/14/96 8:01 PM
To All...
Today, I made a mount for my strobe up on the top of the verticle
stabilizer. I made it out of some scrap Lexan (flat on top with legs down
each side). It looks pretty good and can be seen from just about every
angle. I ran the wire down the hinge line under the hinge flaps (I have 4
per hinge) and under the gap seals that I installed. From there it runs up
the fuselage tube, then up between the fuel tanks to the engine's 12 V.
system. You can hardly tell the wire is even there.
I made a homemade ICOM antenna mount under the nose cone. I broke apart a
BNC connector and epoxied it back together sandwiching the fiberglass near
the rear of the cone, then ran a 7' length of cable back to the seat area.
The rubber ducky will be moved from the handheld to the BNC mount on the
outside of the nose cone pointing down and a little to the outside.
I am going to use a small (8 amp. or so) motorcycle battery I found
(cheapest and smallest one I could find) at Sam's Club and install it up
front in the rectangular area just in front of the rudder pedals on the
right side of center. I will pad it with some plastic bubble padding and
just tie it in with some nylon cord or maybe a bunge. I will route the
overflow tube overboard though a hole in the bottom of the nose cone. It
will also suffice for some of the ballast I need anyway. I will use this
battery as a seperate 12 V. system to power my radios and intercom and for
nothing else. I plan to remove the battery and charge it at home before
flights.
I am still trying to figure out a CB antenna for inside the nose cone. What
I have made (a coiled antenna the same length as the whip that came on the
original) is not working that well. I also have some foil tape that I used
on my Quickie that I might experiment with. George A. has an SWR meter so
that will have to wait until I can borrow it to make sure it is matched.
The last thing that will require some cutting is the ballastic chute
modification. I will weaken a route in the upper surface of the Lexan so
that the hang cable will not rip the whole thing loose if ever deployed.
I hope to be back at the airport tomorrow to do some more work. We have
some bad weather coming in on Monday and I am supposed to have a Cub lesson
on Tuesday... maybe not.
I think I have figured out a design for a very simple tail lift gadget made
from the slat of an old bed that will save my poor aching back when lifting
and moving my plane from and into the hanger. It will extend on out clear
of the the rudder and provide for a little more leverage. If the one I am
making works well, I will duplicate it out of metal and then it will be much
better.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
Another source of good batteries if you need to ballast the nose or
tail is riding lawnmower batteries. I bought one for the Beaver as
the CG is too far aft with a 150 lb person in the front and me at 210
in the back. This brought it within limits but I have to add a 75 lb
sand bag to the front seat to get within limits if the person in front is
too light such as 100 lbs.
Most of this is due to using a Subaru engine which is 60 lbs. heavier than
a Rotax. The engine is behind the CG. It's OK flying solo if the person is
more than 120 lbs. Otherwise, you must add more weight to the front seat
again. (The Beaver is only certified to fly solo from the front seat. The
instructor cannot practice landings from the back seat unless you have a
student or add about two 75 lb. sandbags to the front seat. CG goes way
out of limits otherwise.)
Opps! I digressed. Check out batteries for riding lawnmowers at your local
K-mart. They work great and are generally maintenance free.
Ron B.
On Tue, 17 Dec 1996 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> Date: Tue, 17 Dec 96 04:50:23 cst
> From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com, Cliff & Carolyn Stripling
> Subject: Re:
>
> To All,
>
> Why not use a maintenance free sealed lead acid battery rather than a
> vented version. There are many sealed batteries available. You can
> pick up a 4 amp hr sealed lead acid battery from Radio Shack. They
> also have bigger ones. These are the one used in alarm systems. Work
> great for your application. Maintenance free sealed batteries are the
> only way to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CCHIEPPA(at)umassd.edu |
Hello Kolb People,
I would like info on the E Box from any builder out in KOLB
E-Mail land. On order is a 503 with the B box which is standard for the
Firestar II, I have a few days to think about asking for a change but know
very little how this advanced box runs in the sys.
Thanks Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison) |
writes:
>HI all,
>
>I have recently got into ultralights and have been looking for my
>first
>ultralight. I have done the USUA flying training. The Kolbs look
>very
>nice but at the moment I havn't the space or time to build one. I
>keep
>seeing the older ultrastar's advertised in UF. These planes are
>pretty
>old. Would you consider buying and flying a plane that old? What
>would
>you look for if buying one? How can the frame be checked since fabric
>=
>covers the plane? Any comments would be appreciated, I would prefer
>not
>to have the wings around my ears on my first flight in the plane.
>
>Regards
>Neill.
>
>
Dear Neill:
You have a very valid concern, since each Kolb has a slightly different
"life history." I know some fellows who have a nine-year old Kolb
Firestar I. It has been wrecked twice, had the landing gear re-bent a
few times, etc. Despite that, I wouldn't hesitate to jump in it and fly
because I know that it has been hangered every minute of its ground time
and has been carefully maintained by A&P owners. I think the key factor
would have to be: where was it kept? How much UV exposure? Moisture
exposure?
I see sailcloth covered ultralights tied down outside year round with
faded cloth. You couldn't pay me enough to take a ride in one of those.
If you were to buy an older Ultrastar, I wouldn't see any problem in
inspecting it. Most of the cage area is easy to see, as well as the boom
and tail feather attachments. You can look inside the boom and see the
steel H section and check it for rust.
You could cut inspection holes in the bottom of the wing between ribs,
stick your head up in there and use a flashlight to inspect. When
finished, cover up the holes. Spend a couple hundred bucks and recover
all the tail surfaces as a precaution. There's my $0.02. Hangared
airplane + careful owner + healthy discount = Sale in my book. Later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison) |
> The Firefly with the Rotax 447 looks as though it would be a good
choice
>for HP / climb considerations. From the literature it appears the
Firestar
>cannot be built as a true ultralight with anything larger than a 277.
Does
>anyone have any first hand experience with the Firefly as compared to
the
>Firestar? Any reccomendations regarding the purchase of the quick build
>options on the flying surfaces (time is a consideration in my building
>plans)?
Reply:
I wanted to stretch out (and enjoy) the building process , as well as
save money, so I didn't take the quick-build route. However, if time is
important, you'd be crazy not to. The price for quick-build ribs is VERY
reasonable, IMHO. Many hours of fiddling with small pieces of tubing,
sanding small gussets, and using the snap punch go into those ribs.
Having all the flying surfaces built for you would go a long ways toward
avoiding builder's burnout, possible divorce, etc. If you can afford it,
do it. Then you might have enthusiasm left at the end for the covering,
painting, trim, etc. Despite what the Kolb video said, "the covering
process is (NOT) the most satisfying and rewarding part of the building
process." I was worn out by that time and wanted to be flying. To this
day I am flying my plane in an all-white paint scheme.
My FSII is fitted with a 377, B-box, and 2-blade Ivoprop. Climb is
spectacular in any weather, but I fly from a 600' field. Merry
Christmas!
________________________________________________________________________________
August 19, 1996 - December 15, 1996
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ab