Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ac
December 15, 1996 - March 05, 1997
From: | bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison) |
Dear Kolb group:
I sincerely don't remember whether we are allowed to post items for sale
or not in this group. If not, let me know and I'll find another place to
post this ad and I'll punish myself severely.
Item #1
Rotax 377 w/ B-box, 86 hours on Kolb FSII. All new seals, gaskets, plugs,
carb boot, wrap around muffler, best of care, $1600 or best offer. Want
to install larger engine and take advantage of FSII's second seat.
Item #2
Used Bing carburetor for Rotax , good condition, jets and needles for
both 377 and 447 engines available, $100.
Phone # 704-843-3161
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how
does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are
there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks
for any information.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kenneth Davies <"kenneth(at)midusa.net"(at)midusa.net> |
I purchased a used Kolb Ultrastar a couple of years ago and have enjoyed
it immensely. I decided to do a total recover this winter and make some
modifications-add a small fairing on the front-extend the landing gear
for rough field landing(pastures and such)etc.
My question: I have heard about someone designing a flaperon control
setup for the Ultrastar. I believe it was in the EAA Experimenter awhile
back.
Is anyone using flaperons or know anything about the setup?
Any information would be appreciated. Thanks in advance and Merry
Christmas to all!
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Subaru (NOT) |
On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, CAL wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how
> does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are
> there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks
> for any information.
>
this is way way out there. i'm don't kno what a suburu engine weighs,
but it must be at least 150 lbs minimum, maybe 250. a Rotax 447 weighs
79 with everything on it, a 503 is 87. maybe a suburu powered FS is
like a RR Merlin powered C-172. Nice engine, but different ballgame.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com> |
Subject: | Re: Subaru (NOT) |
>On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, CAL wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how
>> does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are
>> there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks
>> for any information.
>>
>this is way way out there. i'm don't kno what a suburu engine weighs,
>but it must be at least 150 lbs minimum, maybe 250. a Rotax 447 weighs
>79 with everything on it, a 503 is 87.
A direct drive suburu with all ancillary equipment weighs around 130 lb. A
PSRU adds another 35 lbs. The direct drive provides about 70 hp in the
under 4000 rpm range. The PSRU allows the engine to deliver around 100 hp.
These are rough numbers bandied around in the EAA Experimenter in the Q&A
articles.
#########################################################################
Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923
Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552
Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com
Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431
#########################################################################
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Cabin heat concept, weight and balance, feedback welcome. |
Gentlemen:
I am adding cabin-heat to the Mark III. I have decided that I
will use hot water from the cooling system routed to an automotive
heater core mounted right out in the fiberglass nose cone. A small
fan will pull cabin air (no ventilation) thru the core and blast
the heated air at the pilot and passenger's legs. They always say
if your feet are warm, you are comfortable. Also, I have read you
finished Mark III bulders' notes saying you had to add some weight
up-front for proper balance anyway. I would hate to have to do
that with dead weight. This way the weight is doing something
constructive part of the year (most of the year here in frozen
Minnesota). It looks like the thing will weigh 5.5 pounds with
core and fan, minus coolant and hoses.
I welcome your feedback on this idea, and I have a couple specific
questions for those of you with experience or intuition:
1. For those of you who are using hot-water heat, how are you
connecting to the cooling system, what Rotax-radiator system do
you use, and how are you controlling the flow of hot water to the
core without affecting the normal flow thru the cooling system.
2. Are my weight and balance assumptions correct (I am assuming
I will be nose light for pilot-only and full fuel, 180lb pilot. I
am using the 582, 3-bladed Warp or ground-adjust Ivo, NO ELECTRIC
START, NO BATTERY, normal 2-3 coat paint job all Stits, hyd brakes,
full enclosure, normal VFR instrumentation, standard-length tail boom.)
I know you are guessing when you answer this question, but your
educated guesses are the best I have right now.
Thanks for the help, again.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Unique flying experience |
Just after the question about a Subaru engine on a Kolb, I got this.
May be a common thread.
----------
Submitted by Mark Huffstetter (Engineer, KING 5 TV Seattle). You all know
about the Darwin Awards - It's an annual honor given to the person who did
the gene pool the biggest service by killing themselves in the most
extraordinarily stupid way. Last year's winner was the fellow who was
killed by a Coke machine] which toppled over on top of him as he was
attempting to tip a free soda out of it.
And this year's nominee is:
The Arizona Highway Patrol came upon a pile of smoldering metal embedded
into the side of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of a
curve. The
wreckage resembled the site of an airplane crash, but it was a car. The
type of car was unidentifiable at the scene. The lab finally figured out
what it was and what had happened.
It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit (Jet Assisted
Take Off - actually a solid fuel rocket) that is used to give heavy
military transport planes an extra "push" for taking off from short
airfields. He had driven his Chevy Impala out into the desert and found a
long, straight stretch of road. Then he attached the JATO unit to his car,
jumped in, got up some speed and fired off the JATO!
The facts as best as could be determined are that the operator of the 1967
Impala hit the JATO ignition at a distance of approximately 3.0 miles from
the crash site. This was established by the prominent scorched and melted
asphalt at that location.
The JATO, if operating properly, would have reached maximum thrust
within 5
seconds, causing the Chevy to reach speeds well in excess of 350 mph and
continuing at full power for an additional 20-25 seconds.
The driver, soon to be pilot, most likely would have experienced G-forces
usually reserved for dog-fighting F-14 jocks under full afterburners,
basically causing him to become insignificant for the remainder of the
event. However, the automobile remained on the straight highway for about
2.5 miles (15-20 seconds) before the driver applied and completely melted
the brakes, blowing the tires and leaving thick rubber marks on the road
surface, then becoming airborne for an additional 1.4 miles and impacting
the cliff face at a height of 125 feet leaving a blackened crater 3 feet
deep in the rock.
Most of the driver's remains were not recoverable; however, small
fragments
of bone, teeth and hair were extracted from the crater and fingernail and
bone shards were removed from a piece of debris believed to be a
portion of
the steering wheel.
Epilog:
----------
It has been calculated that this moron nearly reached Mach I, attaining a
ground-speed of approximately 420 mph.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Pointer to British aviation accident reports, Kolb |
If you are interested, there is an Internet site by the U.K. D.O.T.
reporting aviation incidents and accidents. I found three reports of
Kolb MkIIIs in there. One showing a mechanism for checking rod bearing
wear without engine teardown! And two others discussing a floor pan
modification to prevent spinal injuries in heavy landings.
The address: www.open.gov.uk/aaib/bulletin.htm
The months of interest were October and August.
Happy surfing>>> Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Loveonetwo(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Pointer to British aviation accident reports, Kolb |
take me off this mailing list, i am getting about 50 unwanted e-mail messages
a day, i don't know how or why you guys are mailing but stop it now it is
driving me crazy
thanks
KIMMI:-)(-:
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
I've never used one in a KOLB so I can't answer Kolb specific questions.
Subaru made a horizontally opposed four cylinder two stroke for many
years. I currently have three engines, one of which is not likely to ever
be usable again. (failed due to inactivity for many years and failed on
the ground during runup testing.)
There are at least two versions. I have a 1980 model that is 1600 cc or
approximately 68 bhp at 4000 rpm. I have a 1981 model that is the same.
The primary difference between the two was the smog equipment but I
understand either year can have either type of smog devices installed.
They are generally removed for use on an ultralight.
I have a 1984 that is 1800 cc and produces about 76 bhp at 4200 rpm. It is
essentially identical to the other two otherwise.
The prop drive was manufactured by some company in Australia.
Unfortunately I bought this as used and the address of the company is not
readable any longer. But, it is a belt drive with a reduction of what
appears to be about 2.5 to one. The prop is a wooden prop with 64 x 42
size and pitch. This generally keeps the engine peak speed during takeoff
to about 4400 rpm. Ideal for this type of four stroke engine.
The April 1996 issue of KitPlanes Magazine had several pages of different
engine manufacturers. Some of these listed Subaru engine conversions for
ultralights. I would suspect if they were contacted, assuming you can find
a back issue, they could tell you what type of mouning might be required
for a Kolb Firestar II.,
Merry Christmas,
Ron B.
On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, CAL wrote:
> Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 18:56:05 -0600
> From: CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Subaru
>
>
> Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how
> does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are
> there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks
> for any information.
>
>
"You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
Thanks for all the info on the subaru, I didn't realize the engine
was so big, I guess I'll stick with the 503. Thanks again, Happy holidays.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | General SlingShot update |
Seasons Greetings to all,
I found out recently that I have no natural abilities when it comes to
covering. I covered the first horz stab using the standard Stits method
of applying Poly-Tak, and it was ugly, but functional. Much of the
problem was that I didn't plan ahead enough to make the outer glue seam
end up on the bottom where it wouldn't be seen. Instead, it was too
wide, and on top in plain view (and I rubbed a hole with the iron on the
edge of one of the gussets). The second horz stab was covered using the
an alternate method of applying Poly-Tak. In this method, the glue is
put down first and allowed to dry, then the fabric is layed over the
top, and MEK is rubbed through to soften the glue and attach the fabric.
When I first tested this method on scrap tubing and fabric, it didn't
appear to be as strong as the the normal method. Eventually, I
discovered that it just takes longer to dry on the inside. Once I let it
sit for a couple hours, I found that the glue is stronger than the
fabric using either method. It took about all my strength to break a 4"
wide piece of the fabric when pulling against the glue joint. The MEK
method is much easier and neater than the standard method. Since the
second stab came out so much better than the first, I peeled the
covering off the first one to re-cover it. It looks like I may have
underestimated the time the covering will take :-)
Since there's been some talk recently about the quality of one supplier
over another, I figured I would mention that all my orders (LEAF, Wicks,
Spruce, Wag Aero, Grand Rapids) were handled well. In almost record
time, I've received everything I ordered except the in-flight IVO prop
and the EIS. I knew that the EIS will take about 3 weeks, and I also
knew that the prop (from LEAF) is drop shipped from IVO rather than kept
in stock. The prop went up from $640 to $720 which was an unwelcome
surprise. I sure hope it's worth it. Almost all the instruments were
ordered from Wag Aero and are made in China. I don't know if this is
supposed to be good or not, but the instruments certainly appear to be
first rate. I ordered a G-Meter too, and have been looking forward to
playing with it when it arrived. This must not be uncommon since
there's a big note attached to the box that says "WARNING, An
accelerometer is a precision calibrated instrument. It is caged for
transit and for handling prior to installation. DO NOT thrust the
instrument up or down in order to satisfy your curiosity of needle
movement. This will permanently damage" etc. I couldn't help but laugh
when I read that. These guys are no fun at all.
My engine should arrive any day I guess. Yesterday was 8 weeks. As
soon as it shows up, I'll start the FAA paperwork process. I'm also
still hopeful about receiving the final kit around the first of the
year.
Lastly (and thankfully, you say), I just posted the 4th roll of pictures
on my page. My alloted 4 MB space was used up after the 3rd roll, but I
asked my ISP what it would take to get more space for the pictures.
Fortunately, the guy in the acounts department who received my message
just got out of the Navy as a pilot. He though the plane looked fun, so
he bumped me up to 10 MB for free. Now I may owe him a ride. If your
in the mood to look at some pictures that are far less boring than mine,
check out Ben's page. He just posted some new flight pics, and there
just as excellent as always.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
Russell and All...
The MEK
>method is much easier and neater than the standard method.
I heartily agree with the MEK method as well. It produces much smoother
applications. Be sure to apply sufficient Poly-tac below and to press the
cloth well into the re-dissolved Poly-tac below. It worked well for me on
cloth to cloth bonds as well. Poly-tac drips and sqeeze throughs can be
easily removed by rubbing with a little MEK. I found the use of a sash
brush the best means of application of MEK through the cloth during the glue
down proceedure. I kept it and the glue application brush in a capped fruit
jar in some MEK between uses. Also the little baby food jars are great for
use in applying the Poly-tac. They are just the right size to handle to
keep the stuff from hardening too quickly and the have a lid that you can
easily put on and remove. When the stuff dries just peal it out with your
fingers and the jar is as good as new. It doesn't stick to the glass.
Allow yourself plenty of ventilation. MEK is not good for your liver and is
probably carcinogenic as well.
If you mess up on covering the small parts there is plenty of Stits material
(at least in my case) left over to cover the entire top or bottom of one of
the main wings... something like 15 to 20 feet. They didn't scrimp on cloth.
Use a calibrated iron and you won't burn holes or over tighten. Watch out
for too much tension on the fragile smaller parts causing warping and
bowing. Be careful ironing tapes or you will shrink and distort the edges.
Useing a piece of ordinary cardboard when shrinking the main wing upper
surface bow tip area is a big help. Is provides a surface for the iron to
press evenly against as well as a surface that allows the iron to transfer
its heat evenly. Be careful when popping rivets on the wing ribs to support
the gun so that on the rebound after the "pop" you don't poke a hole in the
fabric. I came very close to doing it once or twice. It is VERY easy to do.
I wish Kolb would provide a bit more finishing tape supplies in the "kit"
and perhaps a small amount of anti-chafe tape for the few unavoidable
semi-sharp edges. I found that I did not need any "bias tape" for the
curved edges. I bought an extra roll of both 2" and 3" standard tapes and
used almost all of it. Could that be why my plane is over weight? (little
joke) Yeah! that and a lot of other "little things".
I don't know if this is
>supposed to be good or not, but the instruments certainly appear to be
>first rate.
If you buy the cheaper instruments, it would be a good idea to build a shock
mounted panel because the vibration will destroy them sooner or later. I
bought the cheapest too and I have my fingers crossed.
>Lastly (and thankfully, you say), I just posted the 4th roll of pictures
>on my page.
I have enjoyed your other pictures. Looking forward to the new ones.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Zachary and Carol Canright <zzacman(at)alaska.net> |
Subject: | Floats on MKIII and what is the gross? |
I live in South East Alaska where there are lots of wide open flat
spaces, unfortunately they are made of water. I saw on the Kolb demo
tape a MKIII on floats. Who makes them and are they amphibious or
straight floats? I would appreciate any insights from those who have or
are building a Kolb on floats.
What is the catch on the two gross ratings for the MKIII. Is it 750 or
???. Am in the final stages of deciding on what to build ie I finally
have the $$$$ and would appreciate any information the group has.
Thanks, Zac
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
To All...
I made a tail lift today to help me lift that awkward 66 lbs of tail wheel
tucked way up under the rudder out of the way. It could have been made much
better if I had a welder and knew how to weld.
Here's my materials list. Two bed slats, a heavy guage metal bracket I
found with three sides, two pieces of heavy guage rectangular strips of
sheet metal, various screws and bolts and nuts, washers and a few rivets.
I made a notch in the end of one of the slats to match the width of the tail
spring, then I fastened both slats together with screws every foot or so.
Then I hacksawed and filed the strips of sheet metal so that they would hook
under the horizontal axle of the tail wheel and hold it snugly from the
bottom and front and back sides. Then I riveted those strips to either side
of the bracket and bolted the bracket to the two slats at the appropriate
point to allow the notch to fit at the front of the tail spring. Voila! ..a
tail lifter that allows you to lift straight up from behind the rudder so
you can see where you are going and you can see both wing tips (not blocked
by the rudder). It still is a heavy lift, but not as awkward and you can
pull, push and shift to either side with ease. Those of us with weak backs
can appreciate this.
Now if it were made of welded metal you could make a nicer lifter utilizing
a very flat upside down triangle with an upside down U at one of the ends to
take the place of the notch and hooks fashioned to go under the tail wheel
axle on either side at the center corner and you would lift at the far
corner. The longer side of the triangle leg should be strong because it is
in compression and the bottom two legs can be pretty small as they are in
tension.
Hope this doesn't bore everyone,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
To All...
I found some sheet metal in a dumpster of a shopping center construction
site from which I am going to build a battery box. It is "U" channel with a
4" width (my battery is 3" so with some padding I should be in good shape)
and more than ample height. I figure I will bend the ends over and rivet
them together to form a box, then caulk all the cracks with some silicon
caulk. I will fasten it somehow to the front of the frame up in the nose
cone. That will move my battery arm forward about another 6 or 7" and away
from behind the rudder pedals for a better C.G.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings,
I've been thinking about installing lights for legal night operation in
the SlingShot. Now I can't say how safe I'd feel taking off into the
darkness, but I might be able to make more of my afternoon flying time
if I had lights. Does anyone fly 2-strokes at night?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Floats on MKIII and what is the gross? |
The gross weight of a MKIII is 1000 pounds, with a recommended operating
weight of 800 pounds. If you keep the empty weight of your airplane
down there is still enough for you and a passenger. Full Lotus
inflatable floats come in a couple configurations and are widely used.
There is a company in Florida that will install a amphibious landing
gear that is used with a mono float. I believe that the mono float with
outriggers is the lightest way to go and the float doesn't get in the
way for taking pictures
>----------
>From: Zachary and Carol Canright[SMTP:zzacman(at)alaska.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Saturday, December 21, 1996 7:58 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Floats on MKIII and what is the gross?
>
>I live in South East Alaska where there are lots of wide open flat
>spaces, unfortunately they are made of water. I saw on the Kolb demo
>tape a MKIII on floats. Who makes them and are they amphibious or
>straight floats? I would appreciate any insights from those who have or
>are building a Kolb on floats.
>What is the catch on the two gross ratings for the MKIII. Is it 750 or
>???. Am in the final stages of deciding on what to build ie I finally
>have the $$$$ and would appreciate any information the group has.
>Thanks, Zac
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)toybox.ultranet.com> |
Well, I'm sure most people agree that night flying behind a two-stroke
(or, in our case, in FRONT of a two-stroke) isn't the best form of risk
management.
But I, too, thought about equipping my Mk II for night flight, just to
stretch out the evening flying hours a bit. I'd also really love to go
flying on a full-moon night, which can sometimes be almost as bright as
twilight.
The problem I ran into was that if I wanted approval for night VFR, the
local FSDO inspector insisted that a battery-only system wasn't good
enough. I would have to install a charging circuit (i.e.
rectifier/regulator). But then the plane would qualify as having an
electrical system, which means that I would need a Mode C transponder to
fly within 30 nm of Boston. An airplane like a Mk II simply wasn't
intended to be transponder-equipped, and a lot of my flying is within 30
nm of Boston (under the Class B).
So I don't have lights.
And here's an interesting point: even though I have strobes, I don't
get the extra half hour after sunset that a legal ultralight can fly.
N-numbered planes, even if they're "ultralights", need lights to fly
after sunset, period.
Oh well. It's probably safer that way anyhow.
-Steve
Twinstar Mk II N614BT
Cessna 172 N4381Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | checking address |
got a new computer and goofed on my address book, just checking if I got the
right address for the Kolb builders network.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I am having a hard time figuring out the seat belts for my firestar2, they
send 6 metal buckles' kinda. They each have 1 slit in them for the belt, I
can not figure out for the life of me how it works. I am used to a piece that
has 2 slots, you run the belt over and under through the slots in the piece
then around the tube on your frame, then back under the belt in the same
piece so that when you pull the belt tight it uses its own pressure to hold
itself from moving. Well anyways i can't figure out the single slot pieces
that Kold includes, Help.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
The but that holds the end of the cable for the oil injection pump seems to
not be the correct one for my application. It seemsa to be too small and is
slopy when in the oil pump, and the only thing that keeps in the is the cable
itself. The small piece I have with 2 allen screws is real similar to the one
used for the brake cable attachment on the cable brakes. Does anyone have any
suggestions. The manual does not have a very good drawing to compare.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
Tim and all...
This is a really easy way to secure the straps around the frame pieces. Get
you some small pieces of plastic tubing (like scraps of fuel tubing that you
already have). Cut pieces exactly the width of your belt webbing. Run the
webbing throught the slot and around the tube then push a loop through the
slot again. Once the loop is through the slot slip in the plastic tubing to
keep it from sliding back through and tighten up the webbing in the buckle.
To make sure the tubing stays in place put some safety wire through the
tubing and around the webbing. It works great and you can lengthen or
shorten the webbing length if you leave a little tail on the webbing.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | FireflyUL(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Firefly builders, etc. |
hi kolb people,
well i bought my first UL, a Kolb firefly, any other firefly owner/builders
out
there with tips and help would be great.
i also got the quick build option with the covering, lucky me, but would
still
like to hear from everyone.
beau dunn
USUA 59548
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Re: seatbelts -Reply -Forwarded |
Date: 12/26/1996 08:07 am (Thursday)
From: K Zigaitis
To: GWXSL002.GWSMTP02("striplic(at)flash.net")
Subject: Re: seatbelts -Reply
Cliff:
The idea for working with the Kolb supplied belt
buckles is the best I have seen yet. I would like to
suggest one minor addition to the integrity of that
application.
Often time crash forces are far in excess of what one
may imagine. Something that may appear to be quite
functional in regular use may be marginally, if not
totally, inadequate to cope with crash forces. I feel
ill at ease with your suggestion of a piece of flexible
tubing as the means for securing the belt in position.
Under the high load in a crash that tubing may
actually be able to extrude thru the slot of the
buckle. Simple solution, slip on equal length of the
5/16" aluminum tubing, used throughout the aircraft,
into that piece of flexible tubing. Now you could
operate with much higher confidence that this
restraint will not be able to pass thru the slot.
Much happy flying to you in the new year!
KZ Zigaitis
EAA Technical Counselor
MK3 Builder & many others.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
To all...
To correct my post of the other day as to how to fasten the ends of the
straps to the fuselage tubing. Someone made the good observation that a
piece of 5/16" aluminum tubing would be better than the soft plastic tubing
because the soft type could be extruded through the slot and therefore the
seat belts could come undone.
I looked very carefully at my installation today and I have to agree that
the soft tubing could conceivably be pulled through the slot under terrific
loads. I am going to replace mine with the aluminum tubes.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hello all,
The SlingShot covering is coming along OK and hopefully the engine and
3rd kit will be here within a couple of weeks. I've recently had reason
to rethink some of the choices I've made about the plane though. I
changed my in-flight adjustable prop order to a Quick-adjust IVO to save
money and complexity. The extra money will be going into a BRS 900#
chute (and certainly not night flying lights).
The reason for this change is the recent death of a friend in a plane
crash. Originally I heard that he was in his ultralight, but now it's
known that he was flying his Ercoupe. He used to love to go up before
sunrise to watch the sunrise, then fly over to another airport for
breakfast. On this flight, it appears that he entered fog, became
disoriented, and crashed. What made it hit home even harder is that I
received a Christmas card from him the day after he died. I now believe
that any extra chance the BRS can give me will be worth $1900.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
After hearing russell's story it got me thinking what recovery system I
should put on my firestar II. Has anyone ever used a leading edge mount
system that BRS offers, or is the canister type better?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
While we're on the topic of seatbelts, I have been considering
installing a 4 point shoulder harness in place of the standard
"automobile" type seatbelt that is standard on the FireFly.
(And other Kolb models, I suspect.) The Seatbelt in my FireFly
chafes my neck a little bit, and doesn't "feel right". I
also wonder how effective it would be in a crash. Questions
that I keep asking myself are, would my head/helmet catch on it?
Would my neck take a big part of the force? I suspect that a 4
point shoulder harness would be much better from a safety standpoint.
Also, I immagine a 4 point would hold me in the cockpit a bit more
securely. If I were to drop a wing and go into a steep bank or a
spin, or hit a particularly nasty thermal or downdraft, I can see
where I could move around a bit in the cockpit, lessening the
control I have over the aircraft. Personally, I like a snug
fit, something that will make me feel like a piece of the
aircraft, rather than cargo.
Does anyone have any opinions about this? Has anyone
installed a 4 point? I've seen an ad in UF! for them, and
the new company "To the Limit", started by "the Hurricane
guy" (sorry, his name slips my memory at the moment) is
offering them, and supposedly has some sale prices until
the end of December. What's that, one day? I should have
posted sooner. :P (I have yet to call these guys and
see wether they have had any Kolb installations.) I don't
think it would be a problem if there's enough belt and
proper adjustment fittings. Maybe I can talk them into
letting me send it back if its obvious the belt won't
work...
Anyway, I just wanted to know what you thought of 4 point
vs. the standard 3 point, and how others have installed them.
FireFly specific would be wonderful, but I should think that
a FireStar or Slingshot installation would be very similar, if
not identical...
Well, thanks very much in advance!!
-Jon-
.-------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 |
| stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 |
| http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * |
|-------------------------------------------------------------------|
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------'
* == For Sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Firefly Performance |
Kolb Firefly Owners,
I am a new subscriber to the net, web, etc. My initial reason for joining
AOL is that I have a very good friend of mine that built and owns a Firestar
II and is building a Firefly for me and has been supplying me with news off
the net regarding the kolb mailing list and the exchange of information. I
decided that it would be best to join myself and get this information first
hand. I would please like to hear from present owners of the Firefly. I am
interested in your comments regarding flight characteristics, handling,
things to be pleased about, things to be concerned about, in summary the good
bad and ugly (if any ) of the Firefly and it's performance and anything else
that is worth my knowing about.
I look forward to hearing from you. For information sake, I'm a commercial
Sailplane pilot and thoroughly enjoy the ultralight feeling by flying my
Mitchell Wing as well as a CGS Hawk covered in
Stitts. P.S. Oh, the Mitchell Wing is for sale should anyone be interested.
Thanks again,
AllenB007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Very interested in your discussion of the regulator/rectifier problem and how
it relates to the need for a transponder. I have never heard of a FSDO
requiring some one building an aircraft in this class to get a transponder if
they had an "electrical system" what ever that means in this context.
In discussions I have had with folks on the problem it was always
explained to me that if your plane was CERTIFIED with an electrical system
you have to have a transponder, but if you plane was originally built without
one you don't need it. A small distinction, but important for folks like us.
Lots of luscombes and planes of that vintage didn't come with an electrical
system, and it has been my understanding that if you added one later you
still don't have to have a transponder.
The problem underscores the need to negotiate with the MIDO guy or
the DAR who signs off your plane. I have a kuntzelman hot box, facet fuel
pump, strobes, key start, battery, and don't expect to be hassled by the
teterboro MIDO. But you never know.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Here's my 2 cents on the 4 point vs 3 point harness question. I'd take the 4
point any day. I installed 4 points in my mark 3 and I think it was a good
safety move. I haven't flown yet but I have oer 100 hours in a mark 2 that
had the factory three point system. A proper 4 point is a better bet. Plus
its a breeze to install. The connections for the shoulder harness portion
just loop around the square bar of the center spar carry-through. A real
strong connection and very easy to make.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
>Has anyone ever used a leading edge mount
>system that BRS offers, or is the canister type better?
I think if I were to do it over again, I would mount a canister in the aft
fuselage fastened to the fuselage tube pointing down and to the right. I
put mine in the wing gap seal (the no longer made 2nd Chantz soft pak)...
the negatives (1) extra weight during installing and removing the gap seal
(2) hooking up the hang cable and rip cord bracket (3) protecting the soft
pack from water penetration and condensation (4) main wing failure with a
scissors collapse the wings could cause the failure of parachute deployment
(5) requires repack sooner (in my case there is no repacker)... the
positives (1) looks sharp (2) no long hang cable to route (3) shoots upward
initially possibly saving a few feet of altitude during deployment.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII |
I just finished installing my canister Ballistic Recovery Systems BRS5
model 1050 on my Mark III.
You can see the installation in
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para05.jpg
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para06.jpg
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para07.jpg
(I haven't linked the URLs yet).
I rotated the rocket so it fires almost directly up, to get it further
from the prop arc should I forget or be unable to shut the engine before
firing.
BRS has not yet made their new "VLS" model fit Kolbs.
You can reach them for questions at 612 457 7491. I've been speaking
with Greg there.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Redrive and propeller selection time, recommendations? |
I am trying to decide which "C" box ratio makes sense and which prop to
buy to mate to the Rotax 582 for the Kolb MKiii. I have heard/read that
it is a bad idea to mate a three-bladed prop to a 3:1 ratio box, due to
harmonic vibrations. This makes sense to me. John at CPS recommends the
Ivo 3-bladed quick adjust prop with the 3.47:1 ratio for the 582. The Ivo
is available in "any" diameter. What is the largest diameter prop I can
install without shimming up the engine mounts? I am guessing it might be
a 68" size. Is anyone using this: 68" Ivo 3-bl, "C" box with 3.47:1 ratio,
on the Rotax 582? Any recommendations for or against? Other input?
Anybody recommend Warp drive props instead of Ivo? I guess I am set on
using a 3-blade composite. Anybody running the Sportprop ($800!)?
I finished covering the cage this weekend, I can see I saved too much paint,
it is smaller than I imagined. Maybe I'll respray some thin areas on the
wing tops. I've almost settled on the final paint color scheme (biggest
decision of whole project).
Thanks again!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII |
Scott Bentley wrote:
> You can see the installation in
>
> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para05.jpg
> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para06.jpg
> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para07.jpg
>
> I rotated the rocket so it fires almost directly up, to get it further
> from the prop arc should I forget or be unable to shut the engine before
> firing.
>
> BRS has not yet made their new "VLS" model fit Kolbs.
Very nice pics Scott. Interesting to see. BRS told me that the VLS
will be a 4 year repack to start with, rather than 6 years like the
BRS-5. They were pushing the new model though. About a month ago, I
was told to check back with them around the first of the year and they
should have the VLS installation ready for Kolbs. I'll probably go with
the BRS-5 though.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII |
Scott, Why did you choose to mount the chute on top rather than in the
fuselage? What is the VLS model, I looked at BRS home page and all they
had on it was the BRS-5? Thanks for posting pictures of your project,
its great to see someone's project to inspire me to finish my MKIII.
>----------
>From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, December 30, 1996 11:34 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII
>
>Scott Bentley wrote:
>
>> You can see the installation in
>>
>> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para05.jpg
>> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para06.jpg
>> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para07.jpg
>>
>> I rotated the rocket so it fires almost directly up, to get it further
>> from the prop arc should I forget or be unable to shut the engine before
>> firing.
>>
>> BRS has not yet made their new "VLS" model fit Kolbs.
>
>Very nice pics Scott. Interesting to see. BRS told me that the VLS
>will be a 4 year repack to start with, rather than 6 years like the
>BRS-5. They were pushing the new model though. About a month ago, I
>was told to check back with them around the first of the year and they
>should have the VLS installation ready for Kolbs. I'll probably go with
>the BRS-5 though.
>
>--
>Russell Duffy
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Jason and all,
The VLS is a new version of recovery chute from BRS. It stands for
Vertical Launch System. As far as I know, it's the same rocket and
chute, but packaged in a flatter fiberglass container. It looks a
little like one of those cartop luggage carriers. In fact, I'm thinking
about finding one of those on a car, taping a BRS logo to it, then
sending it in with my installation photos. At least we'll know how good
their sense of humor is :-)
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Stupid Fabric Tricks |
Hi again,
Remember when I said I had to re-cover the first horz stab because I
didn't pay attention to where the outer glue seam would be? I just
slapped the fabric on and it ended up on top where it didn't look good.
Well, you would think I would learn from this lesson but nooooooo.
Slapped the fabric on the first elevator, then realized I hadn't payed
attention to the layout. Fortunately, I got lucky and this one was
correct (50-50 chance). I've now left myself a note that says "pay
attention".
And just when you think "this guys done every stupid thing possible to
waste fabric", there's more. I realized that when I layed out the
control surfaces to cut the fabric, I folded the fabric over the leading
edge, not the trailing edge. Since I cut it fairly close, one of the
elevator pieces is too small to be done correctly. It's a good think
there seems to be a bunch of extra fabric here. If I keep this up,
though, I'll have to order another truckload. Geez.
On the good new side of covering, everything so far, seems to have come
out ok. I would have bet anything that I wouldn't be able to shrink out
the extra fabric on a couple of parts of the elevator, but out the
wrinkles came- like magic.
Someone else recently questioned the statement in Kolbs literature about
how the covering process was the most satisfying and rewarding part of
the project. I tend to agree that it won't be for me either. Who
writes this stuff anyway? Perhaps there isn't enough ventalation in
Dennis' workshop :-0 (Oops, broke the rule. No picking on Dennis until
he ships my cage and engine).
Have a safe new year.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
To all...
Today was really foggy at the airport where I am located. The conditions
were definitely IRF. One plane departed and a helio was playing around in
the pattern (showing everyone what he could do with a couple of hundred feet
of visibility that ordinary airplanes could not do). Anyway, a very good
day to have the whole place to myself to do my first taxi tests.
I started out very slow to learn the turning radius. Not very sharp turns
but if I anticipated and cut the corners a bit I could get by. The cable
brakes helped to reduce speeds on down hill taxiways.
I started out on grass and after one run at pretty low rpm I brought the
power up enough to raise the tail (about 4000 rpm initially then back down
to 3750 or a little less to hold it up with some forward stick. I had a
little left cross wind and it took very little aileron to counter it. The
ASI indicated around 35 to 35 plus at times. I was careful to keep the
mains planted on terra firma. Making turns with some (not too much) forward
speed (on grass) helped... the CG being behind the mains helping with the turn.
Later I moved to the pavement. The directional control was more difficult
to control and took a lot more attention to the rudder. The speeds built
much faster so I lowered the rpm to about 3500 or enough to keep (just) the
tail flying.
My overall impression just in taxiing is that the controls are very light,
sensitive and quick, especially compared to the J3 Cub I am training in now.
Later on I will probably be glad that they are. Right now they seem to be a
little ahead of me rather than vice versa.
I don't feel prepared to do any crow hopping yet and besides that I am not
legal yet (bi-ennial or tail dragger endorsement). Hopefully, all will come
together at the proper time. It was a real fun day... fog and all.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)toybox.ultranet.com> |
Subject: | FW: Electrical Systems |
"Cavuontop(at)aol.com" writes:
>>I have never heard of a FSDO
>>requiring some one building an aircraft in this class to get a
transponder if
>>they had an "electrical system" what ever that means in this context.
Unfortunately, "aircraft in this class" means nothing to the FAA. If
you're an ultralight, you're not an aircraft (you're a "vehicle".) But
if your contraption carries an N-number, then it's an aircraft, no
matter whether the empty weight is 375 pounds or 375 tons.
So the question becomes whether your aircraft has an electrical system
or not. Again, the problem I ran into was that if I wanted lights, I
had to have a battery AND an engine-driven charging system. If you read
FAR 91.215, included below, it specifically calls out "engine-driven
electrical system" as the qualifying factor for needing a transponder.
So if I wanted lights, I needed a generator, and if I had a generator,
I'd need a transponder.
Keep in mind that this whole thing ONLY applies to operations inside
Class C airspace (generally 10 nm around the airport), or within 30 nm
of a Class B airport, or any flights above 10,000 ft. Other than that,
there's no requirement for a transponder even WITH an electrical system.
So I don't want to get everyone nervous.
Here's the applicable FAR, with lots of boring stuff deleted:
Sec. 91.215 ATC transponder and altitude reporting equipment and use.
(a) All airspace: U.S.-registered civil aircraft. For operations not
conducted under part 121, 127 or 135 of this chapter, ATC transponder
equipment ....
[blah, blah, blah...]
This requirement applies--
(1) All aircraft. In Class A, Class B, and Class C airspace areas;
(2) All aircraft. In all airspace within 30 nautical miles of an
airport
listed in appendix D, section 1 of this part from the surface upward
to
10,000 feet MSL;
(3) Notwithstanding paragraph (b)(2) of this section, any aircraft
which
was not originally certificated with an engine-driven electrical
system or
which has not subsequently been certified with such a system
installed,
balloon or glider may conduct operations in the airspace within 30
nautical
miles of an airport listed in appendix D, section 1 of this part
provided...
[blah, blah, blah, etc, etc, etc.]
------------------
Now here's where it gets really picky, and probably subject to
interpretation. Note that the reg says "not originally
CERTIFICATED...or...not subsequently been CERTIFIED...".
The word CERTIFICATED applies to the initial Airworthiness Certificate
of a particular aircraft (or sometimes to the Type Certificate of a
particular type design.) The word CERTIFIED actually applies to any
subsequent approval, such as a field modification performed under a Form
337 (Major Repair or Alteration), or just a mechanic's logbook entry for
a return to service.
So getting back to the subject at hand: an old Luscombe might have been
CERTIFICATED without an electrical system. But if one was subsequently
added, the work had to have been documented on a 337 and CERTIFIED by an
IA for return to service. So it would require a transponder within 30
nm of a Class B.
A Kolb like mine was CERTIFICATED (via a Special Airworthiness
Certificate) for day VFR only. If I add lights and an electrical
system, I need to get my Airworthiness Certificate amended by the FAA to
remove the "day only" restriction. Thus, if would be "subsequently
CERTIFIED" and would also require the transponder.
Of course, the bottom line on all this stuff is you keep asking
different FAA inspectors for an official opinion, until you find the one
you like!
Regards,
-Steve Bennett
GPS Systems Engineer, Northstar Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
<< I'm curious to know how you set up your fuel pump. Is it in series with
the pulse pump, or parallel to it? Do you run the electric all the
time, or just like most GA planes (TO, landing, failure of mechanical
pump)?
>>
Boy this a real $64,000 question. I really put alot of thought into this one
and am still not sure I did the right thing because I haven't run my mark 3
yet, but here is the story: I decided I wanted to have a back up fuel pump,
just like on a GA plane. But keep in mind that on the Bing carbs you don't
need to presurize anything, all you have to do is keep the carb bowls full.
The needle valve in the bing carb bowl is good to about 7 PSI, so obviously
you don't want a pump that puts out anything like that number because it
might flood the engine.
Now, California Power Systems sells a facet fuel pump, but when I
called them up to ask them about the specs on it I talked the three different
guys who had absolutely no clue about the problems an oversized pump could
cause, and even worse, no idea what the specs are for the one they sell.
Their answer was to try to sell me a fuel pressure regulator. J.C Whitney
sells facet pumps too. I got the one that puts out 1.5 psi. I wanted thr
SMALLEST one they had. Remember, the point is to have just enough pump to
push the fuel uphill to fill the bowl.
I also put it in series. Parallel looks like an awfull lot of plumbing,
and the specs for the Mikuni pump suggest it should be able to easily
overcome any in-line resistence from the facet pump. Its all speculation at
this point because I haven't flown yet, but I would welcome thoughts from
others.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Mode C exemption |
I think you did the right thing by getting your sign off with the "electrical
system" not in evidence, and then going for the modification later once you
had your pink airworthyness certificate. You should keep in mind however,
that the form restrictions that you get from the MIDO guy usually include a
paragraph that says you have to have the plane reinspected if there are
"major changes" whatever that is. In my view this kind of uncertainty is a
very good reason to have your plane certified by a Designated Airworthyness
Representitive. You pay a little money to these guys, but because they
aren't working for the FAA (usually retired) they tend not to be hostile
hard ass types, and can be negotiated with.
In my view I think it makes sense to comply with the rules as best you
can, but alot of this stuff is very fine points. But the world has a way of
making what looks like little deals to you and me into big problems. I fly
out of a little grass strip that is embedded inside the 5 mile class d ring
at Trenton, NJ. Commercial jets have recently started running out of Trenton
and 757s often come right through the pattern. All it will take is an
unawares guy in an ultralight and an airline Captain who isn't paying
attention either and we'll all have to have mode C
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kerry Ford <skyfox(at)dundee.net> |
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << I'm curious to know how you set up your fuel pump. Is it in series with
> the pulse pump, or parallel to it? Do you run the electric all the
> time, or just like most GA planes (TO, landing, failure of mechanical
> pump)?
> >>
> Boy this a real $64,000 question. I really put alot of thought into this one
> and am still not sure I did the right thing because I haven't run my mark 3
> yet, but here is the story: I decided I wanted to have a back up fuel pump,
> just like on a GA plane. But keep in mind that on the Bing carbs you don't
> need to presurize anything, all you have to do is keep the carb bowls full.
> The needle valve in the bing carb bowl is good to about 7 PSI, so obviously
> you don't want a pump that puts out anything like that number because it
> might flood the engine.
>
> Now, California Power Systems sells a facet fuel pump, but when I
> called them up to ask them about the specs on it I talked the three different
> guys who had absolutely no clue about the problems an oversized pump could
> cause, and even worse, no idea what the specs are for the one they sell.
> Their answer was to try to sell me a fuel pressure regulator. J.C Whitney
> sells facet pumps too. I got the one that puts out 1.5 psi. I wanted thr
> SMALLEST one they had. Remember, the point is to have just enough pump to
> push the fuel uphill to fill the bowl.
>
> I also put it in series. Parallel looks like an awfull lot of plumbing,
> and the specs for the Mikuni pump suggest it should be able to easily
> overcome any in-line resistence from the facet pump. Its all speculation at
> this point because I haven't flown yet, but I would welcome thoughts from
> others.
I may be mistaken, but I do not think so. If your fuel tank is more
than 3 feet below your carb, 1.5 psi will not be enough pressure to
overcome gravity. You need to develop .5 psi per foot of vertical
distance between the fuel source and the carb(s). Then an addition
pound or two of pressure to provide positive fuel flow.
I hope I am wrong, I would hate to be the one to rain on your parade,
especially since you have put so much time and thought into this
installation. Perhaps one of the engineering types (Ben?) here on the
Kolb list can help clarify this.
-Kerry J. Ford
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
> Now, California Power Systems sells a facet fuel pump, but when I
> called them up to ask them about the specs on it I talked the three different
> guys who had absolutely no clue about the problems an oversized pump could
> cause, and even worse, no idea what the specs are for the one they sell.
> Their answer was to try to sell me a fuel pressure regulator. J.C Whitney
> sells facet pumps too. I got the one that puts out 1.5 psi. I wanted thr
> SMALLEST one they had. Remember, the point is to have just enough pump to
> push the fuel uphill to fill the bowl.
When I was ordering all my stuff, I found a Facet pump that is "approved
by Rotax" (according to page 148 of the LEAF catalog). On page 151 where
they list the pump (#H7278), the pressure is given as 2.5 to 4.5 psi
max.
> I also put it in series. Parallel looks like an awfull lot of plumbing,
> and the specs for the Mikuni pump suggest it should be able to easily
> overcome any in-line resistence from the facet pump.
Series would be my choice as well. The two things that concern me are:
1- Can the pulse pump pull fuel through the electric pump when it isn't
running? (from what you said, this sounds like it should be ok)
2- If the pulse pump fails, will the electric pump be able to push fuel
through the bad pulse pump? What is the failure mode of pulse pumps??
Can you blow through them normally? After they puke? Keep in mind,
I've never even touched a pulse pump. These things may never break for
all I know.
As far as when to run the electric, I would probably want to run it all
the time. Perhaps turn it off on the ground routinely as a test to make
sure the pulse pump is still working. It's my understanding that the
props don't windmill on Rotax engines because of the gearbox. If I wait
until the engine gets quiet to turn on the pump, I'll have to try to
yank on the rope to get the engine going again. At a thousand feet or
so, there may not be time for that. Better to avoid the silence, and
find out about it on the ground.
If you have an electric pump and a battery, wouldn't that eliminate the
need for the squeeze bulb?
Well, gotta end the new year by covering the second elevator and the
rudder.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
I have heard of cracked diaphrams on pulse pumps letting
fuel into crankcase thru pulse line if fuel tank is above pump
or it is feed with series pump . I suggest parallel setup .
Duane Z. fs2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu (Ray Abbruzzese) |
Jon said:
>>
>> While we're on the topic of seatbelts, I have been considering
>>installing a 4 point shoulder harness in place of the standard
>>"automobile" type seatbelt that is standard on the FireFly.
>>(And other Kolb models, I suspect.) The Seatbelt in my FireFly
>>chafes my neck a little bit, and doesn't "feel right". I
>>also wonder how effective it would be in a crash. Questions
>>that I keep asking myself are, would my head/helmet catch on it?
Yes, mine did at least once every time I flew it.
>>Would my neck take a big part of the force? I suspect that a 4
>>point shoulder harness would be much better from a safety >>standpoint.
I had the exact same concerns so 3 years ago I went to a 4 point harness on
my FireStar. Several of the after market venders carry them for Kolbs. I
think I got mine at CPS. Cost was $90 (I think).
>>Also, I immagine a 4 point would hold me in the cockpit a bit more
>>securely. If I were to drop a wing and go into a steep bank or a
>>spin, or hit a particularly nasty thermal or downdraft, I can see
>>where I could move around a bit in the cockpit, lessening the
>>control I have over the aircraft. Personally, I like a snug
>>fit, something that will make me feel like a piece of the
>>aircraft, rather than cargo.
That was my thinking, also. Now, with the 4 point I really feel like a part
of the airplane.
>>(I have yet to call these guys and
>>see wether they have had any Kolb installations.) I don't
>>think it would be a problem if there's enough belt and
>>proper adjustment fittings. Maybe I can talk them into
>>letting me send it back if its obvious the belt won't
>>work...
They should but I don't think you should have a problem. I remember it only
took me 45 minutes to an hour for the complete installation and CPS (or
whoever I got it from) said it would fit or they would replace it or refund
the $.
>>
>> Anyway, I just wanted to know what you thought of 4 point
>>vs. the standard 3 point, and how others have installed them.
>>FireFly specific would be wonderful, but I should think that
>>a FireStar or Slingshot installation would be very similar, if
>>not identical...
This is always one area where I think Kolb could do better on. The four
point can not cost THAT much more than the three point and if not standard
with the kit, I feel 4 points should AT LEAST be offered as an option.
>>
>> Well, thanks very much in advance!!
>>
>> -Jon-
Your very welcome , Jon.
See you in the sky!
Ray Abbruzzese E-Mail at: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu
Lincoln, Nebraska, USA
Standard Disclaimer: These are my opinions and you all know about opinions
(they are like butts, everybody has one). I could be wrong and I probably
am. Just please do not sue me.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb Fuel pump |
<< I'm curious to know how you set up your fuel pump. Is it in series with
the pulse pump, or parallel to it? Do you run the electric all the
time, or just like most GA planes (TO, landing, failure of mechanical
pump)?
>> >>
I've been flying my MkIII for three years with a Facet elect. pump as a back
up. I purchased it at the local NAPA store. It is the one that provides 4.5
psi. I have plumbed it in paralell with the pulse pump and do not have a
pressure regulator.
So far no problems. I use it occasionally on takeoff from very short fields
and to fill the carb bowls brfore starting after a long layoff.
P. Krotje
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Rec/Reg problem? - Fixed |
Too all...
A week or so ago I reported an oddity in my engine instruments. I thought I
had a bad recifier/regulator. The symptoms were an apparent loss of 12 V.
to the instruments and a rise in one mag (with normal drop in the other)
reading during engine mag check.
What had happened was a hard to find but simple disconnect of the 12V supply
wire from the regulator at the fuse pig tail connection which was not
crimped properly. All is well now with the Hobbs, water temp, and the tach
reading with proper drop readings on each mag.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
(soon to change) Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | re: seatbelts, fuel pumps, BRS |
Happy New Year everybody,
I thought i'd add my 2 bits to a few of the interesting topics
raised recently:
1. Seatbelts: I went w/ 4 point; bought mine from A/C Spruce, Part
No. 13-01300 for $65 (3 yrs ago). It seems very nice although i have
not tested it and hope not to :/ . Its latching is simple and
each of the 4 straps is easily adjustable. However, I did cut
off the mounting brackets and made my own, as the originals are
made for bolting to a frame instead of securing to the tubular
frame. Mod' was easy and let me know if you want more details.
2. Fuel Pumps... I happened to find an old "Rotax Care and Feeding/
Mike Stratman" article, this one entitled "Failsafe Fuel Delivery"
(UF! August '94). He advises that if using a redundant fuel pump,
as in electric plus engine pulse pump, to hook them in parallel,
and that a regulator might be necessary. He says that these pumps
have one-way flow features, so a failed pump will not allow return
flow to the fuel tank. The article calls out a requirement for
between 2.9 and 7.2 psi to the carbs, so it is odd the LEAF product
"approved by rotax" is rated at 2.5-4.5 psi. I would think it
a reasonable idea to get a pressure gauge and chk that you are
getting ~ 5 psi to the carb before automatically just adding the
pressure regulator. Another note, the article says that you can
get a rebuild kit for the pulse pumps, which zero times them. I
hadn't realized this and thought we just ought to buy replacement
pumps at annual, at least if not using redundant pumps.
BTW: someone mentioned maybe i could offer an 'engineering type'
of help to the pump discussion. Sorry, but i'm a computer jock
(for the Mechanical and Aeronautical Engineering department at
UU Davis), not an engineer.
4. BRS: There are arguments either way for where to install it. I
would agree with Cliff, that if there is any extra hassle in airplane
setup due to the BRS mount inside the gap seal, that is a serious
negative. BRS will argue preference for mounting the chute below the
wing to fire to an aft quarter, slightly downward, and that all their
tests prove this to be the best. They assume a potential
structural failure and fold-up of the wings making a BRS mount on
top less desirable. In a well maintained Kolb, I think this
scenario is way way down in the odds, even with abusive flying.
Even so, this is how i mounted mine, as I think chances of using it
are nearly nil and I just didn't like the looks of the darn thing
sitting anywhere outside the airplane. ...sort of like lucky
dice hanging from the rear view mirror. :) The argument for
mounting it above the wing is simply that the most likely scenario
in which you would need it is if you have an engine failure over
terrain that would yield a crash landing worse than a parachute
landing. In this scenario you would set up for the crash landing
in the least worse spot, and pop the chute (fires upward) just
before impact, er... i mean touchdown. So, although this might be
more practical (assuming you discount the probability of a wing fold),
i still mounted mine inside the plane.
As you think thru the BRS options, the people at BRS are very
willing to help with advice. However, I think they tend to recommend
a bigger weight, faster deployment chute than you need. I have minor
regrets buying the 750 lbs model over the 500 lbs one (per BRS'
recommendation); either one should save my hide as my gross weight is
<= 500lbs.
And lastly on the subject: recall that there are at least 2 incidences
where BRS chute's nearly killed their pilots (coincidentally in Kolbs).
These were identical mishaps where the BRS cable wasn't tie-wrapped
adequately to the airplane, coming away and into the prop' during an
otherwise normal flight. In both cases the prop shattered and all the
forces tore the engine from it's mounts (breaking at the rotax
crankcase), but by some miracle hanging on by threads to maintain CG
for emergency landing(!!!). Except for looks, you couldn't over-do it
on tie-wrapping that cable! And always preflight chk it.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don Ramsey <dramsey(at)ro.com> |
Subject: | Re: re: seatbelts, fuel pumps, BRS |
(snip)
> pressure regulator. Another note, the article says that you can
> get a rebuild kit for the pulse pumps, which zero times them. I
> hadn't realized this and thought we just ought to buy replacement
> pumps at annual, at least if not using redundant pumps.
(snip)
> --------|--------
> Ben Ransom (*)
> UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
> Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
My UL instructor overhauled his 503 engine's pulse fuel pump and got
the gasket upside down when he was reassembling the two halves of the case.
This caused the gasket to have an air leak between the two pump chambers
which made the pump not work at all. He quickly determined the problem and
reversed it. Unfortunately, Henry had a prospective student waiting for
him to finish his maintenance. The guy was a GA pilot who wanted to try UL
flying in Henry's Quicksilver MX Sprint II. The aspect of Henry doing his
own aircraft maintenance and having problems must have underwhelmed him
cause he left and hasn't returned.
-- Don
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Thanks to Kerry Ford on the Pump info. I think that the distance between the
pump and the carb bowl is around 3 feet. I will be very interested to see
how the pump works out and will report back. I've certainly been wrong
before.
My theory was that I realy didn't want or need much pump and that
consequences of having too much could be worse than none at all. And I've
had very good luck with the dual mikuni. Its just that my GA orientation
makes me think I should have the redundancy. I think the best bet may be to
rebuild the mikuni at every annual inspection and hope you never have to
count on the facet.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | BRS Mounting/VLS Model Availability |
I received a brochure from BRS on their VLS model in May, soon after I
received my Mark III kit. At the time they told me it would certainly
be ready for Kolb installation by August. In August they said November.
In November they said not until January...
So that's why the canister model.
I never really considered an in-the-fuselage mounting of the parachute,
though I did see drawings of this when I received the parachute. In
order to do this, you have to decide before covering the cage, which I
did over the summer.
Keep in mind this pushes the CG aft compared to the overhead mounting.
Russell answered the VLS question in a different message.
I'm not surprised that BRS's home page is out of date. They said they
were unable to view my pictures as their modem was too slow...
>----------
>From: Jason Omelchuck[SMTP:jason(at)acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, December 30, 1996 4:02 PM
>To: 'Kolb builders'
>Subject: FW: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII
>
>Scott, Why did you choose to mount the chute on top rather than in the
>fuselage? What is the VLS model, I looked at BRS home page and all they
>had on it was the BRS-5? Thanks for posting pictures of your project,
>its great to see someone's project to inspire me to finish my MKIII.
>
...
>>
>>Very nice pics Scott. Interesting to see. BRS told me that the VLS
>>will be a 4 year repack to start with, rather than 6 years like the
>>BRS-5. They were pushing the new model though. About a month ago, I
>>was told to check back with them around the first of the year and they
>>should have the VLS installation ready for Kolbs. I'll probably go with
>>the BRS-5 though.
>>
>>--
>>Russell Duffy
>>rad(at)pen.net
>>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
Subject: | Altimiter Advice? |
I bought my FireFly from the original owner, already fully built.
The altimeter is a 0-5500ft, single pointer jobbie with a Kollsman window
and is resettable to any altitude. Unfortunately, this means that each
increment on the face of the altimeter represents 100 feet, rather than
the traditional 20 feet. I'd like to get something more accurate.
I've been paging through the latest issue of Ultralight Flying!
and the selection of altimeters is a little confusing. They ranged in
price from $300 to $185. Some could be zeroed at any altitude,
others couldn't. (seemed like the ones with the Kollsman windows
couldn't be zeroed for some reason, even though mine can).
After thinking about it for a while, I figured that the zeroing
feature wasn't really all that important. I think the only thing it
would be good for is to mark the altitude of your home strip. If
you fly anywhere else, the ground isn't going to be at 0 anymore, it'll
be higher or lower than where you started... Also, it would be
difficult to determine my true altitude (MSL) as is nescessary when
using a sectional. Based on those factors, I don't care wether it can be
reset or not. Unless someone can point out a compelling reason that
I'm overlooking?
Is the Kollsman window actually good for anything? I realize that it
is the barometric pressure in inches of mercury, but do I need to
know that at any time?
In one ad, the description said that this particular altimeter used
pressure to calculate altitude, and needed no external hookups. I was
under the impression that all altimeters were like this. Apparently
not, eh? What would you need to hook to an altimeter to get it to work?
Also, what make/model of altimeter would you suggest? Any particular
distributors or mail order places you'd recommend? Obviously, I'd
like something as inexpensive as possible, but I do want something
reasonably accurate and well made.
Thanks very much in advance!
-Jon-
.-------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 |
| stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 |
| http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * |
|-------------------------------------------------------------------|
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------'
* == For Sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger) |
Subject: | Seatbelts: thanks! |
Thanks very much to Ray, Cliff, Cavuontop(at)aol.com, (and anyone else
I may have missed) for their extremely helpful answers and insights
about my seatbelt query.
I will definitely upgrade the stock Kolb 3 point to a 4 point.
Now I just need to get on the phone and figure out which one. ;)
Thanks again!
-Jon-
.-------------------------------------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 |
| stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 |
| http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * |
|-------------------------------------------------------------------|
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------'
* == For Sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Altimiter Advice? |
Jon,
> Also, what make/model of altimeter would you suggest? Any particular
> distributors or mail order places you'd recommend? Obviously, I'd
> like something as inexpensive as possible, but I do want something
> reasonably accurate and well made.
>
Another less-pricey (about $114) choice may be the Avotech watch which is
advertised in a couple of the UL distributor ads. My wife gave me one for
Christmas a couple of years ago and it has all sorts of aviation features, an
altimeter included. However, it is somewhat difficult to alternate between
the features while flying so I never used it. Recently I decided to check its
accuracy as an altimeter since I will need an altimeter for a Sky Pup that
I'm building. While flying my Spitfire and comparing the watch's digital
altimeter readout against my Taskem digital altimeter, I was pleasantly
surprised to see the 10-foot readings change exactly the same. I plan to use
the Avotech watch as my new altimeter and possibly try the VSI feature next.
For me, other advantages of the watch are that it uses no instrument panel
space (no 3" dia. required), isn't exposed to the airframe vibrations, and is
moveable from one UL to another. BTW, this altimeter is resetable and has a
barometric feature, for whatever use that is. If you need to know more about
the full features, I could dig out the instructions and give you a more
complete listing.
Hope this helps.
Charlie Kirtland
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Altimiter Advice? |
Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the purchase of
the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything small
and don't typically use them when flying.
So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is readable
by those of us that are getting older and need to use bifocals to see
small stuff or stuff up close.
Any comments would be appreciated,
Ron B
On Fri, 3 Jan 1997 Ulflyer(at)aol.com wrote:
> Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 06:57:48 -0500
> From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
>
> Jon,
>
>
> > Also, what make/model of altimeter would you suggest? Any particular
> > distributors or mail order places you'd recommend? Obviously, I'd
> > like something as inexpensive as possible, but I do want something
> > reasonably accurate and well made.
> >
> Another less-pricey (about $114) choice may be the Avotech watch which is
> advertised in a couple of the UL distributor ads. My wife gave me one for
> Christmas a couple of years ago and it has all sorts of aviation features, an
> altimeter included. However, it is somewhat difficult to alternate between
> the features while flying so I never used it. Recently I decided to check its
> accuracy as an altimeter since I will need an altimeter for a Sky Pup that
> I'm building. While flying my Spitfire and comparing the watch's digital
> altimeter readout against my Taskem digital altimeter, I was pleasantly
> surprised to see the 10-foot readings change exactly the same. I plan to use
> the Avotech watch as my new altimeter and possibly try the VSI feature next.
>
> For me, other advantages of the watch are that it uses no instrument panel
> space (no 3" dia. required), isn't exposed to the airframe vibrations, and is
> moveable from one UL to another. BTW, this altimeter is resetable and has a
> barometric feature, for whatever use that is. If you need to know more about
> the full features, I could dig out the instructions and give you a more
> complete listing.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Charlie Kirtland
>
"You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Electric Fuel Pump |
Put fuel pump in paralell at bottom of tank or lower with takeoff from bottom
of tank. This should work.
Mike Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hello again,
I just talked to another builder in Florida who warned me to check into
the state tax situation for experimental aircraft. As it turns out, I
owe 6% state tax on the purchase price of the kit and components that
were ordered. This will amount to a little over $700 in my case which
is bad, but not as bad as it would have been. It seems that the FAA
sends the state a record of the aircraft registration sometime after
it's completed. The state then checks to see if you've paid your taxes.
If not, they send you a bill for the tax, interest, and some mandatory
penalty (for not paying voluntarily I guess).
Of course, this is only how Florida does it. If you're going to
register your plane, It might be wise to make a couple of phone calls to
your state revenue office to make sure you're not going to get stuck.
I'm afraid this was the final straw for my BRS. No way I can afford it
now. Oddly enough, this is almost a relief.
And speaking of BRS chutes, someone (Will Uribe I think) told me about a
Beyond 2000 episode back in November that showed a BRS in use. I've
kept an eye on the Discovery channel schedule and noticed that they'll
be showing that episode again on January 28th at 6:00 PM eastern. Also,
for anyone looking to purchase a BRS, they'll have an annual price
increase on Feb 1st. They didn't say how much.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Death and Taxes |
On Fri, 3 Jan 1997, Russell Duffy wrote:
> I just talked to another builder in Florida who warned me to check into
> the state tax situation for experimental aircraft. As it turns out, I
> owe 6% state tax on the purchase price of the kit and components that
> were ordered. This will amount to a little over $700 in my case which
> is bad, but not as bad as it would have been. It seems that the FAA
> sends the state a record of the aircraft registration sometime after
> it's completed. The state then checks to see if you've paid your taxes.
> If not, they send you a bill for the tax, interest, and some mandatory
> penalty (for not paying voluntarily I guess).
I presume this is a property tax? In California a registered airplane
gets a property tax assessent every year. An ultralight vehicle is free,
and of course incurs no sales tax if purchased outside of CA. Seems lousy
that the trade-off ends up to be between revenue to Florida versus a safety
device, but that's life.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Subject: | Re: Altimiter Advice? |
Hello,
> Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the purchase
> of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything
> small and don't typically use them when flying.
>
> So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is
> readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use
> bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close.
Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and
easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals
and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't
that bad then you may be able too.
The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate.
Hope this helps,
Brandon
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Blaylock" <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Altimiter Advice? |
Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to have to
head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone at the
Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself.
Most respondants said they could read it if their close range vision wasn't
too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one.
Best regards,
Ron B.
-------- Begin Included Message -------
> Hello,
>
> > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the purchase
> > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything
> > small and don't typically use them when flying.
> >
> > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is
> > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use
> > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close.
>
> Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and
> easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals
> and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't
> that bad then you may be able too.
>
> The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Brandon
>
> |
> Kolb | - - - -
> Mark III [][]-| - - - -
> N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
> Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
> . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
> . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
> (_____________//----------------\^
> / o
> ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
>
>
-------- End Included Message --------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard May" <richardm(at)snowcrest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Altimiter Advice? |
What are you guys refering to here?
----------
> From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
> To: bkearbey ; kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
> Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 10:22 AM
>
> Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to have to
> head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone at the
> Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself.
>
> Most respondants said they could read it if their close range vision
wasn't
> too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Ron B.
> -------- Begin Included Message -------
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the
purchase
> > > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything
> > > small and don't typically use them when flying.
> > >
> > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is
> > > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use
> > > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close.
> >
> > Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and
> > easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals
> > and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't
> > that bad then you may be able too.
> >
> > The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > Brandon
> >
> > |
> > Kolb | - - - -
> > Mark III [][]-| - - - -
> > N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
> > Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
> > . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
> > . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
> > (_____________//----------------\^
> > / o
> > ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
> >
> >
> -------- End Included Message --------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Blaylock" <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
kolb(at)intrig.com
Subject: | Re: Altimiter Advice? |
The Avocet Altimeter Watch.
-------- Begin Included Message -------
> What are you guys refering to here?
>
> ----------
> > From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
> > To: bkearbey ; kolb(at)intrig.com
> > Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
> > Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 10:22 AM
> >
> > Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to have to
> > head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone at the
> > Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself.
> >
> > Most respondants said they could read it if their close range vision
> wasn't
> > too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one.
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Ron B.
> > -------- Begin Included Message -------
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the
> purchase
> > > > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything
> > > > small and don't typically use them when flying.
> > > >
> > > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is
> > > > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use
> > > > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close.
> > >
> > > Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and
> > > easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals
> > > and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't
> > > that bad then you may be able too.
> > >
> > > The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps,
> > > Brandon
> > >
> > > |
> > > Kolb | - - - -
> > > Mark III [][]-| - - - -
> > > N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
> > > Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
> > > . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
> > > . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
> > > (_____________//----------------\^
> > > / o
> > > ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
> > >
> > >
> > -------- End Included Message --------
> >
>
-------- End Included Message --------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard May" <richardm(at)snowcrest.net> |
Subject: | Trade Quicksilver for Kolb |
I think I might like a Kolb. I have a MXLII Sport w/503 that I would like
to trade for one. I guestimate the value of my plane around $6500. If you
know anyone who might be interrested, please send them my way. I live in
Northern California.
\\\|///
\\ - - //
Rich ( @ @ ) Diana
---------------oOOo-(_)-oOOo--------------
Richard J. & Diana C. May
Quicksilver Ultralight Flight Center
Dealer for Quicksilver, BRS, and Full Lotus Floats
http://www.geocities.com/thetropics/3053
richardm(at)snowcrest.net
-----------------------Oooo---------------------
oooO ( )
( ) ) /
\ ( (_/
\_)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard May" <richardm(at)snowcrest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Altimiter Advice? |
I thought you guys were refering to that watch. I have one. Love it! It
works great. It does everything you can possibly think of. In fact, I
still have not figured everything out that it does. I love it. It really
works nice in my ultralight.
\\\|///
\\ - - //
Rich ( @ @ ) Diana
---------------oOOo-(_)-oOOo--------------
Richard J. & Diana C. May
Quicksilver Ultralight Flight Center
Dealer for Quicksilver, BRS, and Full Lotus Floats
http://www.geocities.com/thetropics/3053
richardm(at)snowcrest.net
-----------------------Oooo---------------------
oooO ( )
( ) ) /
\ ( (_/
\_)
----------
> From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
> To: Richard May ;
bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us; kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
> Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 5:48 PM
>
> The Avocet Altimeter Watch.
>
>
> -------- Begin Included Message -------
>
> > What are you guys refering to here?
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
> > > To: bkearbey ; kolb(at)intrig.com
> > > Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
> > > Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 10:22 AM
> > >
> > > Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to
have to
> > > head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone
at the
> > > Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself.
> > >
> > > Most respondants said they could read it if their close range
vision
> > wasn't
> > > too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Ron B.
> > > -------- Begin Included Message -------
> > >
> > > > Hello,
> > > >
> > > > > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the
> > purchase
> > > > > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read
anything
> > > > > small and don't typically use them when flying.
> > > > >
> > > > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch
is
> > > > > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to
use
> > > > > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close.
> > > >
> > > > Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are
large and
> > > > easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has
bifocals
> > > > and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes
aren't
> > > > that bad then you may be able too.
> > > >
> > > > The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate.
> > > >
> > > > Hope this helps,
> > > > Brandon
> > > >
> > > > |
> > > > Kolb | - - - -
> > > > Mark III [][]-| - - - -
> > > > N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
> > > > Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
> > > > . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
> > > > . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
> > > > (_____________//----------------\^
> > > > / o
> > > > ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
> > > >
> > > >
> > > -------- End Included Message --------
> > >
> >
> -------- End Included Message --------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jbv174(at)lemars.ia.frontiercomm.net |
Subject: | Catalog-Kolb Ultralights |
Gentlemen.
Have rec'd information from you in the past. Need to update
since this was a few tears ago. Please forward via regular
post to: John Valentine, 631 4th. Ave S.E. Lemars Iowa.
51031
Many thanks.
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jbv174(at)lemars.ia.frontiercomm.net |
Subject: | Catalog-Kolb Ultralights |
Gentlemen.
Have rec'd information from you in the past. Need to update since this was a few
tears ago. Please forward via regular post to: John Valentine, 631 4th. Ave
S.E. Lemars Iowa. 51031
Many thanks.
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Death and Taxes |
Keep in mind that there is a BIG difference between evading and avoiding
taxes.
When I got my tax notice from the PA tax people I called them up and
said "Hey, what the heck is this?" The guy at the other end of the line said
"Well, we heard from the FAA that you just registered an Airplane, it must
have cost you something, so you must owe us some tax." I said "Hey, I'm
building this airplane from scratch, and I'm not even finished" The guy said
"Oh." I went on. "It's just a pile of tubes in my basement, I don't know if
I'll ever finish it, what with my brain cancer all." "Gee, sorry about
that," said the guy. "I buy all the parts that the plans say to down at the
hardware store, and I pay a BIG SALES TAX on the pieces there, what isn't
that enough!!?" I yelled. "I just put in for the registration number with
the FAA, it doesn't mean there is a real airplane to go with it." "Never
thought of that," said the tax guy. "Jeez," I said, "are you trying to tax
my fantasies, I just sit in the welded cage and make airplane noises!!!!"
The guy apoloigised and I never heard from them again.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Twin Engined Kolb |
To All...
(snip) ...and a restored Kolb Flier Twin. I agreed to test fly it
when they finally finished rebuilding it. It's the one with two
pusher engines, one mounted on each side of the cockpit cage. It will
obviously have asymetrical thrust when I shut one down. Has anyone
out there flown one? I'm curious to know if there is a Vmc problem
before stall. We're closing in on finishing it and I'll test fly it
by the end of the month. It would be interesting to talk with anyone
who has any experience flying one.
I read this off the news reader tonight . A twin
engined Kolb? I sent an e-mail to him suggesting he contact Dennis S. I
also though many of you might find this at least an interesting idea.
Later,
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate
(soon to change) Both - R/V travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | aileron counterweight |
Greetings,
Does anyone remember the spacing of the aileron counterweight from the
wing tip tube? It's not in the plans that I have so far, and I haven't
been able to reach Dennis about it. I'll probably go ahead and cover
the ailerons while I'm waiting for the cage, but I have to install the
CW first.
In other news, I stumbled across a great deal on a hanger. The guy I
sold my RV-6 project to, just bought a lot on a 2500 ft private grass
strip. He just finished a 50 X 50 hanger and told me I'm welcome to
keep the SlingShot there for $50 a month. It is located about a mile
inside of Eglin Air Force base restricted airspace so you have to
maintain 700 ft or below until you are clear. After that, no overlying
airspace at all. What a deal.
Remember my BRS saga? How could you forget right? First I didn't want
it, then I did, then I couldn't afford it... Well, I still can't afford
it, but nevertheless, I ordered the 900# canister yesterday. Now I get
to agonize over something else for a change. Thanks for all your
patience in this matter.
Later,
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com> |
Subject: | Pencil Marks on aluminum |
What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the
fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to
aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What
environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes
the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more
damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this
simple issue.
I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in
marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am
sure there are others to be discovered.
BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components
ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November
and I want to paint the plane this early summer.
#########################################################################
Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923
Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552
Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com
Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431
#########################################################################
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Madeleine Volum" <MVolum(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum |
Like you, that surprised me a little as well. Jumbo jets have a high aluminum
content - think the FAA may add pencils to the list of hazardous materials not
allowed on board?
I'm no expert, so I played safe and am using felt tip markers on my Mk III,
but in case it may be of help, I did find something that takes off all sorts
of markings quite well. It's called "Goo Gone" and sold in some hardware
stores.
(Then again, for all I know, Goo Gone may have been what brought down TWA!)
Happy Building,
Peter Volum
Miami, FL
----------
From: owner-kolb(at)www.intrig.com on behalf of Ron Hoyt
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 1997 6:02 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Pencil Marks on aluminum
What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the
fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to
aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What
environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes
the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more
damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this
simple issue.
I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in
marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am
sure there are others to be discovered.
BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components
ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November
and I want to paint the plane this early summer.
#########################################################################
Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923
Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552
Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com
Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431
#########################################################################
________________________________________________________________________________
(/\##/\ Smail3.1.30.16 #30.136) with smtp
From: | jbidle(at)airmail.net (Jerry Bidle) |
Subject: | RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum |
Oops, pencil marks were found to cause cracks on wings components, like the
spars on B-52 bombers according to our EAA technical counselors. It
therefore has become the practice in the industry not to use pencils to mark
deminisions, rather use soft tip felt pens/markers. Pens which leave scribe
marks are also bad. I found Sharpies don't work well for long. The best
one I found is a German made pen called Stabilo-OHPen96P. They have a
redish pink body, come in a varity of colors, with the top and cap
reflecting the color. I found the permanent fine tip to be the best.
Theres also a Pilot that's not too bad but they do not last nearly as long
as the Germen pen. They'll hit you around $1.15-$1.50 a piece.
>Like you, that surprised me a little as well. Jumbo jets have a high aluminum
>content - think the FAA may add pencils to the list of hazardous materials not
>allowed on board?
>
>I'm no expert, so I played safe and am using felt tip markers on my Mk III,
>but in case it may be of help, I did find something that takes off all sorts
>of markings quite well. It's called "Goo Gone" and sold in some hardware
>stores.
>
>(Then again, for all I know, Goo Gone may have been what brought down TWA!)
>
>Happy Building,
>
>Peter Volum
>Miami, FL
>
>----------
>From: owner-kolb(at)www.intrig.com on behalf of Ron Hoyt
>Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 1997 6:02 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Pencil Marks on aluminum
>
>What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the
>fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to
>aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What
>environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes
>the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more
>damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this
>simple issue.
>
>
>I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in
>marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am
>sure there are others to be discovered.
>
>BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components
>ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November
>and I want to paint the plane this early summer.
>
>
>#########################################################################
>Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923
>Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552
>Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com
>Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431
>#########################################################################
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JBallen96(at)aol.com |
I'm interested in what platform to use to build a FireStar II. I have a 2
car garage with a 4'x14' work bench I built my TEAM MiniMax on and was
wondering if that would be sufficient or would it be better to set up saw
horses. Any advice?
Thanks Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
Subject: | RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum |
It's an interesting subject and you never know what might
happen. Years ago an aircraft mechanic in the Navy won a
couple of awards for saving the Navy a lot of money by
suggesting they use 409 cleaner instead of the commerical
cleaner the Navy was using to clean the rotor blades on
the compressor section of jet engines. It seems they used
it for quite a few years until it was discovered that it
caused corrosion on the compressor blades that led to several
compressor failures.
So, pencils... only the aircraft inspectors know for sure but
I've never ACTUALLY heard of it causing a problem. I could
be wrong because my structural training was a very, very long
time ago.
Ron B.
On Wed, 8 Jan 1997, Madeleine Volum wrote:
> Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 04:53:54 UT
> From: Madeleine Volum <MVolum(at)msn.com>
> To: Kolb builder group - all members
> Subject: RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum
>
> Like you, that surprised me a little as well. Jumbo jets have a high aluminum
> content - think the FAA may add pencils to the list of hazardous materials not
> allowed on board?
>
> I'm no expert, so I played safe and am using felt tip markers on my Mk III,
> but in case it may be of help, I did find something that takes off all sorts
> of markings quite well. It's called "Goo Gone" and sold in some hardware
> stores.
>
> (Then again, for all I know, Goo Gone may have been what brought down TWA!)
>
> Happy Building,
>
> Peter Volum
> Miami, FL
>
> ----------
> From: owner-kolb(at)www.intrig.com on behalf of Ron Hoyt
> Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 1997 6:02 PM
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Pencil Marks on aluminum
>
> What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the
> fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to
> aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What
> environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes
> the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more
> damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this
> simple issue.
>
>
> I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in
> marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am
> sure there are others to be discovered.
>
> BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components
> ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November
> and I want to paint the plane this early summer.
>
>
> #########################################################################
> Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923
> Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552
> Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com
> Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431
> #########################################################################
>
"You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | sawhorses vs bench |
When starting the Mkiii, I called Dennis and asked if a nice big bench was
an advantage over sawhorses. He said that most builders have good luck with
sawhorses. I then built a couple saw-oxen, with a top member made from 2x8
and hand-planed flat, long enough to support the leading and trailing edges.
This worked out great. I followed the plans and did all the top rivetting
but when it said I could flip the wing over to do the remaining rivetting,
I did not flip it, and actually did the majority of the remaining rivets
upside down. This was made comfortably possible by using one of those folding
beach chairs, the kind with no legs. It was quite comfortable and productive
because I could just arrange all the tools around me on the floor, within reach
from the chair. The pneumatic rivetter also makes this easier.
Make sure to level the two horses the same before you start, and check it
often thru the process.
My wings came out very flat, I can detect no twist or warp, except that
which was added when the shrinking fabric bent one trailing edge upward 1/2",
at the tip, much to my disappointment.
If you have a nice flat bench, I bet that would work too.
Have fun, Jim.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
I plan to use a vertical card directional finder compass on my Mark III,
with a bent Lexan bracket I built Monday night. You can see the compass
and bracket on:
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/drctfnd.jpg
The current (and, I hope, fairly final) state of my panel is available
on:
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/panel197.jpg
Note I have the Grand Rapids EIS with Fuel Flow option (and the warning
light mounted on the top section of the panel. In addition, I have an
altimeter, airspeed, and VSI. I used the larger size for everything and
mounted no switches due to the distance from my eyes and hands when
strapped in.
The controls I plan to mount in the gap seal.
(http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/image09.jpg).
Any comments or advice is appreciated.
The two new pictures, in "mykolbmk3", I took using an Olympus D-300L
(see: http://www.olympusamerica.com/digital/products/300L/300L.html)
Note that this has higher resolution than my previous Kodak D25
>pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | manliker(at)uiuc.edu (Mark Anliker) |
Subject: | Re: Building Board |
>I'm interested in what platform to use to build a FireStar II...
Jim, I asked almost the very same question about a month ago. I kept the
responses (about 6) I received and will forward them to you (not the group)
in a separate message, so as to not unnecessarily occupy bandwidth.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Building Board & Sharpies |
On Wed, 8 Jan 1997 JBallen96(at)aol.com wrote:
> I'm interested in what platform to use to build a FireStar II. I have a 2
> car garage with a 4'x14' work bench I built my TEAM MiniMax on and was
> wondering if that would be sufficient or would it be better to set up saw
> horses. Any advice?
> Thanks Jim
Jim, I used a 4x8 foot workbench. It's only problems were sometimes
having to lean over to the middle for awhile -- this being a pain in the
back. Saw horses would allow you to work easily in the middle of
a wing. I suppose also that saw horses would allow you to rivet from
underneath, although I don't remember this being too necessary. A 4x14
workbench takes up enf of a 2 car garage that you might eventually be
space constrained as the finished parts add up. So, after mentioning
the negatives of the large workbench, I'd still start out with it and
just add saw horses later if you find they might be helpful. The 14'
length will be nice for holding the spindly ailerons straight. BTW, as
i got to the later parts of my FS construction I cut away part of my
4x8 workbench to make more garage space.
Somebody mentioned they didn't like Sharpies for marking AL, and
preferred some other permanent felt marker. I found the opposite; I
liked the Sharpies a lot and think the permanent markers are a pain to
remove the ink before covering ...the permanent mark will show thru the
fabric, although probably not thru most paint colors.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pencil Marks on aluminum |
>Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 10:51:24 -0600
>To: rpike(at)preferred.com (Richard Pike)
>From: Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com>
>Subject: Re: Pencil Marks on aluminum
>
>>>What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the
>>>fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to
>>>aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What
>>>environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes
>>>the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more
>>>damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this
>>>simple issue.
>>>
>> Ron, as I understand it, leaving carbon marks on aluminum in high
>>stress areas can cause a fracture potential over a long period of time. Have
>>not ever actually heard of this happening but that is the reason it is
verboten.
>> Good luck on getting covered and painted by summer, mine took a bit
>>longer.
>> BTW, there is a cheap way to really beef up the ailerons on the
>>MKIII. You have probably noticed that there is a bit of flex at the end of
>>the aileron by the wing tip due to flex or give in the piano hinge.(I
>>checked the factory's MKIII, it flexes). As luck would have it , the
>>stainless steel L hinges that are used for the front of the stabilizer are
>>just the right distance from the mounting surface edge to the pivot hole
>>that they are on the same pivot axis as the piano hinge. So if you buy 8
>>extra ones, 4 per side, installed just like on the stabilizer, you can put
>>them out by your wing tip to totally eliminate aileron flex. I installed
>>mine with 3/16 stainless rivits .
>> Richard Pike
>> Technical Counselor EAA Chapter 442
>> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>>
>Thanks for the reply. I like the aileron mod. It should be easy. I have
eliminated all the obvious marks but worry about others.
#########################################################################
Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923
Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552
Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com
Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431
#########################################################################
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Building Board |
I used a 4 X 8 table on the SlingShot wings and tail. It worked fine,
but I also went to great pains to make sure it was flat and level. I
haven't tried the sawhorse method, but I can't see how it would be much
if any improvement. If your current bench is flat (level doesn't really
matter), I'd use it.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Building Board |
> I used a 4 X 8 table on the SlingShot wings and tail. It worked fine,
> but I also went to great pains to make sure it was flat and level. I
> haven't tried the sawhorse method, but I can't see how it would be much
> if any improvement. If your current bench is flat (level doesn't really
> matter), I'd use it.
>
I'm known for getting picky now and then, so here goes... I'd recommend
you look for dips or rises in a flat workbench by pulling a fishing
line tight, and standing it off with a toothpick at each end. If, looking
along the fishing line you see a distance from the "flat" workbench
greater or less than the toothpick width, then maybe it isn't flat. Maybe
you don't need a tolerence of 1/16th flatness over 8 or 14 foot lengths,
but the fishing line method will show you to that kind of accuracy.
I never depended on my workbench for flatness... instead I used shims
as I built parts instead. See http://mae/~ransom/build/3aileron.html
if interested.
Then also, I'm sure Rusty would probably be able to provide further info
on the methods he used to make sure his table was flat enf. I'm guessing
that the biggest disadvantage of the sawhorses is just that they are
not as solid and may periodically need to be recalibrated for level and
no twist. I've heard of others epoxying them to the floor once calibrated
...good idea i think, and also, assuming they are *sturdy* horses.
guess i've beat this one to death
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JBallen96(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Building Board Advice |
To all that responded, thanks for all the good advice. I think I'll go with
my table .
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolb Mailing List
From: | David Hempy <hempy(at)ket.org> |
Subject: | 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar |
The Bluegrass Ultralight Group is proud to announce the...
1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar
Saturday January 25, 1997 in Lexington, KY
The singular purpose of this seminar is to promote the safety of every
ultralight pilot in and around Kentucky. Newcomers to the sport and old
pros are encouraged to attend. General Aviation pilots will learn more
about a facet of aviation that may be new to them. This seminar is one of
the ways Kentucky aviators are working to reinforce the image of safety
conscious ultralight pilots to the general public and other aviation entities.
(Excuse the crude formatting...To see this message in all its original glory,
check out:
http://www.dl.ket.org/staff/dhempy/seminar.htm
Hey, webmasters! Please add a link to this page from your event calendars!
-dave)
======================================================================
Featured Presentations:
Brian Collins -- Master of Ceremonies
Frank Beagle -- The Evolution of Ultralights
"The Voice of OshKosh"
An exploration of ultralights from the days of unpowered hang gliders and
the first attempts of adding power, to the little airplanes we call modern
ultralights. Frank will guide us through this voyage, with an emphasis on
the evolution of safety in ultralighting.
Roger Mann -- Wood Construction
Ragwing Manufacturer
Mark Smith -- Rotax Inspection without Tools
Rotax Service Technician
Manufacturer of parts for Quicksilvers
BFI
Mark will teach the essentials of good pre-purchase inspections and
maintenance inspections. He will diagnose several Rotax motors without
turning a single bolt, and then open the motors up to see how well he did.
We'll bring the soap, as you will get your hands dirty on this one!
Jim Stephenson -- Weight & Balance (and Surprises!)
CEO of ASC
BFI
Engineer
Basics of Weight & Balance
CG range is limited
Weight & Balance affects stability
Ultralights are the same...only different
There are issues
There are surprises
Jim's presentation will show why it is important to understand Weight &
Balance and that it can be simple. Finally, he will show you opportunities
to use Weight & Balance to your advantage.
K. Z. Zigatis -- First Flight
BFI
The final session of the day will be a panel Q&A period. All our speakers
(and other experts) will field questions from the audience, on any topic
relating to the safety of the sport.
======================================================================
When:
Saturday, May 11, 1996
Registration: 8:00-8:45 AM
Seminar: 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM
Where:
Lexington, Kentucky
KET Building -- 600 Cooper Drive (behind the UK Football
Stadium)
>From any Lexington exit, follow the signs to the University of Kentucky
campus. From campus, head south on South Limestone street or Rose street.
1/4 mile south of campus, turn left on Cooper Drive. Two and a half blocks
later, you'll see KET on the right, just past Commonwealth Football Stadium
and LCC.
Group rates are available at Campbell House Inn (800-432-9254 in KY,
800-354-9235 USA) if you mention the "Bluegrass Ultralight Group". There
are several budget hotels near the interstate, but none close to the seminar.
For those who will be in town Friday evening, stop by the lounge at the
Campbell House for social hour. Plan on some more fun Saturday evening as
well...find out where at the seminar!
Cost:
This seminar is free and open to the public. Donations are recommended, as
they go directly to covering the hotel expenses of the speakers and the
cost of presenting the seminar. Lunch tickets will be on sale during
registration only (8:00-8:45AM).
Who:
This seminar is presented by the Bluegrass Ultralight Group. BUG is a
state-wide group made up of EAA provisional ultralight chapter #74, USUA
club #83, and independent BUG members. This seminar is made possible by the
generous support of the sponsors listed below. Please patronize and thank
these groups.
Freebies:
BUG will be giving away many dozens of the prizes at the seminar. Last
year, not a single person walked away empty handed. Our sponsors have
provided countless T-shirts, videos, books, catalogs, hats, and magazines.
We have several major prizes, including aircraft plans, a decorative
propeller clock, windsocks, demo rides, and more. All these will be raffled
off to help cover the speaker's expenses costs of the seminar.
Literature from manufacturers, national organizations, flight schools, and
others will be available. Instead of ordering Info Packs for five to ten
dollars a pop, bring a sack to carry home all the wish-lists you'll pick up
here for free!
Sponsors:
The companies and people below are real heros for this seminar. Without their
support, this seminar would not be possible. We urge you to patronize these
companies. When you do, let them know how much you appreciate them
supporting the Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar. They will feel good
hearing it
from you.
Each of the presenters (Our very biggest sponsors!)
Green Sky Adventures
TEAM Aircraft
Commtronics
Tennessee Propellers
Lockwood Aviation
ASC
ULTRAflight
LEAF
USUA
Ultralight Flying!
Flightstar
Titan Aircraft
Air Command Gyrocopters
Innovation Engineering
Bing Carburetors
...and several other last-minute supporters.
BUG would like to take this time to especially thank all of our industry
sponsors. It is heartwarming to be in a community that cares so much about
the safety of its pilots this much.
If your company is interested in becoming a sponsor, we would be delighted
to distribute your materials and raffle off any prizes you choose to send.
Casey Stiles can answer any questions concerning sponsorship:
Casey Stiles - (606)734-2032
460 Palisades Rd
Harrodsburg, KY 40330
More Info:
For more information about the seminar, contact:
Alan Laymon 606-734-5965 (days) kyultralight(at)juno.com
David Hempy, 606-258-7164 (evenings) hempy(at)ket.org
So tell you flying buddies, and make plans to be there. Do you know a
General Aviation pilot who is interested in ultralights, but doesn't think
they are safe? Bring 'em along and prove 'em wrong!
Fly safe,
-dave
--
David Hempy Kentucky Educational Television
Database Administrator/WWW programmer Distance Learning Division
http://www.dl.ket.org/staff/dhempy/ (c)1997 KET, Inc. and/or DBH
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Building Board |
I used saw horses and it worked very well and takes up less space. Just make
sure they are level to each other.
Mike Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolb Mailing List
From: | David Hempy <hempy(at)ket.org> |
Subject: | Re: 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar (Clarification) |
>
>The Bluegrass Ultralight Group is proud to announce the...
>
> 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar
> Saturday January 25, 1997 in Lexington, KY
>
>... ...
>
> Saturday, May 11, 1996
> Registration: 8:00-8:45 AM
> Seminar: 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM
>...
Okay, Charles Boehnlein's eagle eyes caught me re-using last year's copy
for this announcement. No, you didn't have to register last Spring to come
to this year's Safety Seminar. Just show up. The date is most definitely
January 25. May 11, 1996 was *last* year's seminar. Please don't show up
this May!
Thanks for catching by boo-boo Charles.
-dave
--
David Hempy Kentucky Educational Television
Database Administrator/WWW programmer Distance Learning Division
http://www.dl.ket.org/staff/dhempy/ (c)1997 KET, Inc. and/or DBH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George Henderson <george(at)advtel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Building Board & Sharpies |
steel tubes on a 4 x 8 foot heavy table. The steel tubes were placed where
the Kolb manuel said to place the saw horses.
The sharpie marks can be easily removed with acetone or nail polish
remover.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Building Board |
Let me beat this dead horse a little more. You can't be careful enough about
truing things up. I am in contact with Mark 3 builder in NC who just flew
his plane for the first time. He reports it took nearly full right aileron
to fly straight and level. After looking around he discovered the wings
rigged 3/8 out of alignment. Will report on his fix when I talk with him
next.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
Beating a "saw" horse to death?
Here's a tip for building the wings on any surface: Switch ends when
building the opposite wing. That way, if there is any twist, it will be
cancelled by the other side.
H Fritze.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com |
After flying my MarkIII for 360 hrs(in 6 yrs) I decided to remove a damaged cap
from one of my Full Lotus floats to repair or replace it.
To my surprice I found a plywood board (18X36"x3/16"thick) wedged between the cap
and the float which was broken in several places and totally waterlogged weighing
approx.5-6 Lbs.
I have never seen any information on this plywood and it seems to me that if it
is neccesary for proper operation of the floats it should not be made out of
plywood that when wet,will add 10 Lbs of extra weight(on dual float system).
I would like to know if anybody has replaced this with something else.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
Subject: | Builders in Mid-DE |
As a builder newbie, I'd sure like a chance to look at, admire and
generally gab to someone in the area whose done the deed. If there are
builders in the Central Delaware region, or if anyone knows a list of
such folks, would you drop me a line? BTW, I'm building an FSII.
Bruce Schimmel (bruce(at)schimmel.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Mark-III for sale |
Hi,
I found this in rec.aviation.ultralights this morning and thought I
would pass it along.
Rusty
1993 kolb with 503 and all the options you can imagine. for sale in
north east pa, asking $13,000 60 hours tt like new e-mail or call ken at
717-489-7620
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
I've been lurking on the fly-ul listserver ...believe me, even
lurking is a time commitment. anyway, i just saw this (below)
and found it interesting. I think I'll ask the poster (Andy)
if he'd be able to scan and send the article.
>I would like to get advise and experiences regarding the SPORTPROP.
>
>Is it as good as the manufacturer states, or is it just another
>smooth but inefficient flexible prop ( like IVO )?
>
>AUGUSTO JOUVIN
It is as good as the manufacturer states, particularly the 3 blade model. A
couple of months ago Quicksilver Magazine published the results of a series
of flight tests that we conducted regarding the Sport Prop, Warp Drive,
Precision, and Ivo.
Warp Drive had a very slight edge in efficiency but Sport Prop was the BIG
winner in smoothness and quiet.
Precision was close to Sport Prop in performance but the big loser in
smoothness.
Ivo ran fairly smoothly but was the big loser in performance (cruise and
climb).
(posted to fly-ul(at)perim.com by Andy Gold, PFPA(at)aol.com)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | New Wiring Harness |
New Wiring Harness Available for use with Grand Rapids EIS
Kolb Aircraft has just made available a new wiring harness for their
FireStar and SlingShot aircraft, this is an option that may be ordered with
the EIS instrument package. The harness is designed to connect to the Grand
Rapids Technologies Engine Information System. It consists of a bundle of
twenty-seven wires with plugs, switches, thermocouple wire, and a remote
switch panel to mount in the seat area. The harness comes ready to install
in your aircraft and simply plugs into all of the mounted components with the
two EIS D-sub connectors pre-wired for the EIS unit and matching plugs for
the Rotax wiring harness. It contains the ignition on/off switch and a
spring loaded left-right mag switch which are wired to the harness. Also
included are the next/previous screen push-button switches for the EIS.
Extra wires are provided to allow for additional instruments or custom
requirements. The harness is designed to eliminate the wiring nightmares
associated with kit building; it is designed for pull-start installations
only - not for electric start.
Also available is another version of the harness which is designed for
use
with standard analog instruments. This provides the above harness without
the two EIS instrument plugs and thermocouple wire.
wiring harness - you would just end up paying a bit more.
The harness should be adaptable to a FireFly as well.
For more information, contact Kolb Aircraft, Inc., RD 3 Box 38, Phoenixville,
PA 19460. Phone: (610) 948-4136.
Dennis Souder
President
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
I have been looking at the NTSB web page
(www.ntsb.gov/aviation/months.htm) and fortunately there are not many
Kolbs in the reports, and only one fatality I have seen so far. The
thing that really jumped out at me is the number of uncertified aircraft
with low time pilots that crash. So if you are building an illegal
"ultralight" please don't skimp on the training, getting busted in a
unregistered airplane is better than being buried in one. The other
thing I noticed is that 80% or more of the aircraft with 2 stroke
engines that go down, go down because of engine failures. Many of which
are unexplained and the engine runs fine in post crash inspection. Of
the GA aircraft that have accidents it seems that about 10% are due to
engine problems. I have flown behind my share of 2 strokes but will
probably never ride in one or build one again. If I do ride in one it
will be with a documented high time in type pilot.
fly safe and high, Jason MKIII (with a subaru engine) builder.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject:Instrument panel, pitot tube angle
I am just about finished with the shock-mounted aluminum instrument panel.
I used 8 very small shock mounts (1/2" diameter), to hopefully spread the
stress into the fiberglass fairing existing panel area. I had to cut a lot
of the original fiberglass panel away to allow bigger clearance holes for the
intrument bodies to extend back into. I tried to make them big enough to
ensure that the instruments won't touch the fiberglass, adding shock impact.
I welcome feedback, and would like to hear how others are doing this (shock
mount or hard mount, etc). I am going to spray the panel flat black. Do
I need a glare shield too?
Pitot tube: I am ready to extend it out thru the f/g fairing, with a small
section of plastic tubing to make it flexible. QUESTION: About what angle
should I attempt to hold, for the tube to aim? About level with the fuselage
tube for level flight? I think I can bend it a little later if it isn't
right.
I thought I'd glass in some supports for wires and pitot tubes, and brake
lines, before painting the f/g. Any other input before I paint?
Pros and cons of painting the fairing black INSIDE to clean it up a little?
Maybe white is better, for light.
Thanks for your input, Jim (wishin someone would buy me a 582 for my birthday).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | Before Painting Fiberglass |
>----------
>From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM[SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM]
>Sent: Thursday, January 16, 1997 9:33 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>...
> I thought I'd glass in some supports for wires and pitot tubes, and brake
>lines, before painting the f/g. Any other input before I paint?
*** I discovered that I apparently did not clean off the fiberglass
sufficiently before painting. It has stuff on it that helped remove it
from the mold. I don't know the right solvents or procedures (I'm sure
others on the group do,) but if you don't do this the paint will flake
off.
>Pros and cons of painting the fairing black INSIDE to clean it up a little?
*** I'd highly recommend this, and wish I had done so.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: pitot tube angle |
On Thu, 16 Jan 1997, Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
> Subject:Instrument panel, pitot tube angle
> section of plastic tubing to make it flexible. QUESTION: About what angle
> should I attempt to hold, for the tube to aim? About level with the fuselage
> tube for level flight? I think I can bend it a little later if it isn't
> right.
Short answer: yes, just eyeball it close to parallel w/ fuselage tube.
I don't think the angle is super sensitive for airspeed.
Long answer: If you look at a Kolb in level flight (~ cruise speed) the
tail of the fuselage tube is maybe 15 degrees up from the front of the
fuselage tube. Therefore, a pitot tube parallel with the fuselage tube
would be pointing down relative to the oncoming airstream at cruise,
but maybe about right for the higher angle of attack at slower and
stall speeds, which is where you want the greater accuracy(?).
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | kolb flyer wannabe |
January 16th.
I live in Downingtown, PA area and am looking for area locals who
built/own and fly Kolb ultralights/experimentals. I'm interested in
gaining insight and advice on my new endeavor of building a Rotax 477
Firefly or possibly Firestar. I wish to witness setup, takeoff and
landings as well as maintenance of the aircraft when convenient. First
and foremost I wish to find a club or association of Kolb flyers.
Happy New Year to all.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | molu(at)ACHILLES.NET (Lucien Morais) |
Hello to the list .
I just move to the country before Christmass, and I dont have any choice,
but my Firestar 2 will have to spend the winter outside.
Last week we had freezing rain and there was about one quarter inches of
ice on my plane. While I was taking the ice off the gap seal between the
wing and aileron, ripp off for about two feet and a half on the inboard
side.
Do you members think this will be a problem to fly the plane like that?
It is really to cold to try to fix it right now. This morning it was minus
30 degrees celsius.( It,s not always that cold:):) )
Also what do you think the behavior of the plane will be whitout any gaps
seal at all?
Tank you for advices coming from you.
Happy flying Lucien
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
I seem to have generated quite a bit of interest with my subaru engine
comment. I feel a bit guilty in that I am still a year away from
actually getting to that point of building. I hope to get the plane
finished without the engine in the next year (recently purchased new
house and baby on the way) I am then going to get a weight an balance on
the empty airplane so I can then calculate where the engine needs to go.
The engine I am planning on using is the EA71 which is the 1600cc
version, it is approximately 12lbs lighter than the EA81 and is capable
of the 80 horse power I want. I will be using a Ross planetary
reduction this puts the propeller quite a ways from the engine so that
the engine can be mounted far enough foreword to keep the CG in the
proper place. I hope I will be able to use a stock Ross unit but if
calculations say I need more distance they will make it any length I
need. It seems the problems Kolbs have is with aft CG even with rotax
engines. My engine will have no starter or alternator and my airplane
will not have a battery. Ignition will come from a magneto. I am
working very hard to keep my plane as light and simple as possible and
am confident it will come in lighter than many 912 equipped kolbs. I
agree that the packaged Subaru engines are too heavy and make too much
horse power for the MKIII, these engines are made to replace/compete
with certified O235's and O200's which I would not put in my MKIII
either. So as you can see I cannot provide much technical assistance
right now for other builders since I have yet to try and make it work.
Since I have very little spare time but even less money my plane is
going to take probably 4 years from start to finish, thats the bad news
the good news is 2 of those years have already passed. About a year ago
I posted a Subaru question and somebody who owns a Buckaneer responded.
He actually had one installed with a belt reduction and said it worked
great, I will try and find his messages and foreword them on to the
group.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au |
Subject: | Re: Subaru engines |
yinc.com>
Kolks,
the Subaru option is an interesting one - although a bit out of my league for a
FSII - I am still exploring options to the big R - although I know that Homer
and Dennis are quite happy with the Austrian Hand Genade.
One comment on Jason's plan:
" My engine will have no starter ..."
We have a couple of friends who built and flew with BMW 4strokes and R
gearboxes. It proved to be IMPOSSIBLE to start them by hand, as the gearbox
ratios basically mean you can't turn the engine over fast enough to get it to
fire and run.
It is also nearly impossible to handprop a 912 I believe...
Anyone cite any examples of Subarus with g/boxes being hand propped?
Pete Gorton FSII 90% done/to go
17 Dunstan Parade, Port Melbourne 3207 AUSTRALIA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
Subject: | Optimal Layout of EIS Panel |
Is there a better or worse way to install the EIS, Airspeed
indicator and whiskey compass to minimize funkiness to compass readings?
Thanks. My project is an FSII.
Oh, could one install a small gel-type 12v battery in parallel to
line powering the EIS to allow presetting and an output for accessories
like noise reduction and handheld?
Bruce Schimmel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
Subject: | Request for help... |
(Forwarded to the list -- this poster put a subject of 'help' which sends
the mail to me...)
> From: ceaser(at)hotmail.com
> Received: from Ameet Savant (cheryll.cs.fredonia.edu) by mary.cs.fredonia.edu
(4.1/SMI-4.1(thc18))
> Date: Sun, 19 Jan 97 14:22:16 EST
> Message-Id: <9701191922.AA26101(at)mary.cs.fredonia.edu>
> Subject: help
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>
> I wonder if some good soul out there would be kind enough to send me the complete
blueprint of any ultralight plane FREE OF COST ???
>
> If you are reading this line then probably you are just the person i am looking
for. "Please send me the above mentioned."
>
> Thank you with all regards
>
> Ameet
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Subaru engines |
The reduction unit is in your favor in the speed department, it will
make the engine turn over faster than you are turning the propeller.
The folks at Ross Aero Reductions say that they hand prop their
reduction equipped engines all the time. If you rebuild your engine and
do it "too tight" you will have trouble because although speed in your
favor torque is not and it makes it too hard to spin the propeller.
Most people recommend that if you engine has anything less than 50,000
miles on it do not rebuild it is just been broken in perfectly. If you
do feel the need to rebuild make the tolerances a little loose (by
automotive standards) especially the rings/pistons to cylinders.
>----------
>From:
> pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au@acuityinc.com[SMTP:pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au@acuityinc.c
>om]
>Sent: Sunday, January 19, 1997 7:10 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: Subaru engines
>
>Kolks,
>the Subaru option is an interesting one - although a bit out of my league for
>a
> FSII - I am still exploring options to the big R - although I know that
>Homer
>and Dennis are quite happy with the Austrian Hand Genade.
>
>One comment on Jason's plan:
>" My engine will have no starter ..."
>
>We have a couple of friends who built and flew with BMW 4strokes and R
>gearboxes. It proved to be IMPOSSIBLE to start them by hand, as the gearbox
>ratios basically mean you can't turn the engine over fast enough to get it to
>fire and run.
>
>It is also nearly impossible to handprop a 912 I believe...
>
>Anyone cite any examples of Subarus with g/boxes being hand propped?
>
>Pete Gorton FSII 90% done/to go
>17 Dunstan Parade, Port Melbourne 3207 AUSTRALIA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Subaru engines |
I also like the idea of rotary power, but two rotors is too much for any
kolb. Every now and then I see an ad in Homebuilt Aircraft for Duncan
rotary which is a company in Mexico that sells Mazda rotary engines and
half Mazda engines (single rotor) for aircraft. If anyone has ever
heard anything about this company or anyone who sells plans for cutting
two rotor engines in half please let me know.
>----------
>From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Friday, January 17, 1997 6:34 PM
>To: Jason Omelchuck
>Subject: Re: Subaru engines
>
>Sounds like you've got a good plan in the works. I looked into the
>alternatives for the SlingShot, but couldn't find anything immediately
>available. My main goal was to get this thing in the air ASAP. Then,
>I'll work on the potential new engine. I really love Mazda Rotary
>engines. They seem a bit heavy but not entirely out of the question.
>One of these days (once the plane is flying), I'll pick up a trashed
>engine at the junkyard and start weighing the pieces. A single rotor
>engine is a possibility. It's too bad I never heard about the EA71 when
>I was looking at Subarus. It sounds like it would've been more tempting
>than the EA81. Might still be.
>
>Good luck,
>--
>Russell Duffy
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pierce(at)rice.edu (George F. Pierce) |
Subject: | Questions for the group |
Hello
I am a medium time SEL VFR private
pilot, age 50, and am always in fear of that visit to the Doctor for my
class 111 physical.
1. Can a Firefly be built as a 103 ultralite and and amateur built aircraft
at the same time?
2. Does the firefly quick build qualify under the 51% rule?
3. If built and registered as an aircraft can the Firefly be returned to
103 spects should the doctor fail me in the future?
4. Are there any Kolb flyers in 100 mile radius of Houston, Tx?
5. Will Kolb be at Sun N Fun? I'm told that this is the best of the big
flyins for seeing/talkin ultralites/microlites.
George F. Pierce III
WA5ABS
EAA
Amsat
AOPA
ARRL
Email: pierce(at)rice.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Questions for the group |
>----------
>From: pierce(at)rice.edu@acuityinc.com[SMTP:pierce(at)rice.edu@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, January 20, 1997 8:24 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Questions for the group
>
>Hello
>
>I am a medium time SEL VFR private
Please take the time to get training in an ultralight style aircraft.
They do fly considerably different than GA aircraft, especially with
power off, they decelerate VERY rapidly.
>
>pilot, age 50, and am always in fear of that visit to the Doctor for my
>class 111 physical.
>
>1. Can a Firefly be built as a 103 ultralite and and amateur built aircraft
>at the same time?
No, once you have the N number you are an experimental aircraft.
>
>2. Does the firefly quick build qualify under the 51% rule?
Yes, I believe it does
>
>3. If built and registered as an aircraft can the Firefly be returned to
>103 spects should the doctor fail me in the future?
I don't think you can unregister an airplane once it gets an N number,
but I'm not really sure.
>
>4. Are there any Kolb flyers in 100 mile radius of Houston, Tx?
>
>5. Will Kolb be at Sun N Fun? I'm told that this is the best of the big
>flyins for seeing/talkin ultralites/microlites.
Kolb is always at Sun N Fun.
In general there is no reason to build a firefly as an experimental
aircraft. Unless you are looking to build time in your log book.
Ultralights have less restrictions, cost less, and are cheaper to
insure. You will probably have a better performing aircraft if you
build it within the guidelines of Part 103 because you will not be
tempted to add all of the unnecessary stuff (weight) that the
experimental category would allow. I feel I must say it again that you
should get training in a ultralight style aircraft, as I surfed the NTSB
accident reports there was a huge number of accidents that were low time
"ultralight" pilots and had the engine quit on take off and they
stalled.
>
>
>
>
>
>George F. Pierce III
>WA5ABS
>EAA
>Amsat
>AOPA
>ARRL
>Email: pierce(at)rice.edu
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Blaylock" <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Subaru engines |
-------- Begin Included Message -------
> Kolks,
> the Subaru option is an interesting one - although a bit out of my league for
a
> FSII - I am still exploring options to the big R - although I know that Homer
> and Dennis are quite happy with the Austrian Hand Genade.
>
> One comment on Jason's plan:
> " My engine will have no starter ..."
>
> We have a couple of friends who built and flew with BMW 4strokes and R
> gearboxes. It proved to be IMPOSSIBLE to start them by hand, as the gearbox
> ratios basically mean you can't turn the engine over fast enough to get it
to
> fire and run.
>
> It is also nearly impossible to handprop a 912 I believe...
>
> Anyone cite any examples of Subarus with g/boxes being hand propped?
>
> Pete Gorton FSII 90% done/to go
> 17 Dunstan Parade, Port Melbourne 3207 AUSTRALIA
>
>
-------- End Included Message --------
We have a BELT driven reduction on our Subaru. It hand props just fine. I don't
know if gears would make a great difference. I don't have the exact reduction because
I didn't build the belt drive system and have not actually calculated it but it
appears
to be about 2.5:1.
Starts on the second or third hand propping generally when cold and the first hand
propping when warm.
Ron B.
===============================================
"You are but one flight physical away from an ultralight." S. Larghi
===============================================
Ron Blaylock < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
I'm new to your list. I would like to know average build time for the kolb
mark III. Also how much time the quick build would save. Would this still
qualify under the 51% rule if you use the quick build?
Thanks..
J. Olson
PHFD400.@aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
Subject: | A vibrating Kolb Mark 111 |
I posted a question some time ago about a harmonic vibration problem. I am
flying a Kolb Mark 111 with a Rotax 582, 3 - 1 C drive, three blade 66 inch
warp drive prop.
Thanks for all the replies. I have solved the problem! I have always been
a bit suspicious about the amount of flexibility that the C drive hardy disk
(the rubber doughnut) had. My suspicions went way up after reading an
article in the COPA (Canadian Owners and Pilots Association) magazine. A
fellow had all kinds of problems with his powerplant setup. His last
attempt at fixing the problem was to change his hardy disk for a less
flexible one. He installed one with a shore hardness no. of 75. My inner
oil seal needed replacement so it was a great time to take my C box apart
and check the no. on my hardy disk. My disk had a shore no. of only 55! I
ordered a no. 75 and installed it.
I went flying for 2.5 hours yesterday and had a very smooth powerplant at
all rpm. My old no. 55 disk would cause serious harmonic vibrations between
5,500 and 6,000 rpm.
A local Rotax service center stated that most C drives are now shipped with
a no. 75 hardy disk. My C drive is about 4 years old and I would assume
that the original no. 55 disk was for light weight two blade wooden props.
I added one more item to my reduction drive to allow more space between my
prop and the back of my fuselage. My original clearance was only 1.5
inches! I purchased a 2.5 inch prop extension from Ivoprop. An Ivoprop is
thinner than a Warp drive therefore the bolts that they supplied were too
short. I needed 8 X 150 mm bolts. The longest metric bolts that I could
find were 130 mm long. I went to a local
skidoo / seadoo dealer and he found the required bolts in his part's book.
The part no. is:
BOMBARDIER
732 601 054
VIS-SCREW-HEX
U.S.A.
The above harmonics problem has been annoying me for the last 175 hours. I
had discussed this with the North American Rotax distributor in Vernon BC
about three years ago. They did not think that I had a problem with the
rigidity of my hardy disk at that time. It would have saved me a lot of
annoying vibrations if they had been better informed!
Kim
Saskatchewan, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | greg olejniczak <gopack(at)mc.net> |
HI
MY NAME IS GREG. I"M LOOKING TO PURCHASE A KOLB IN THE SPRING.
I WAS WONDERING IF THERE WERE ANY OWNERS IN THE CHICAGO AREA?
I WOULD LIKE TO TALK WITH YOU ABOUT YOUR CHOICE OF PLANES AND
GET A LITTLE BACKGROUND, MAYBE EVEN SEE YOUR PLANE.
PLEASE E-MAIL ME AT:.......> GOPACK(at)MC.NET THANKS:~)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | wing covering question |
Need a bit of clarification. On covering the wings, I thought that the 1/2
inch tape goes on top of the ribs and under the fabric to work as an anti
chaf. But in reading the manual I understand it to say that it goes on top of
the fabric, which is then riveted and covered with the 2 inch finish tape. I
guess its to give more for the rivets to bite into.
am I correct.
Thanks Tim Loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu (Ray Abbruzzese) |
Subject: | Re: wing covering question |
>Need a bit of clarification. On covering the wings, I thought that the 1/2
>inch tape goes on top of the ribs and under the fabric to work as an anti
>chaf. But in reading the manual I understand it to say that it goes on top of
>the fabric, which is then riveted and covered with the 2 inch finish tape. I
>guess its to give more for the rivets to bite into.
>am I correct.
Yes, you are correct. The rivets need the extra "bite". As for anti-chafing,
I used a good quality, cloth tape (ie: medical tape) on all SHARP edges.
>Thanks Tim Loehrke
>
You're welcome.
See you in the sky !
Ray Abbruzzese E-Mail at: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu
Lincoln, Nebraska, USA
Standard Disclaimer: These are my opinions and you all know about opinions
(they are like butts, everybody has one). I could be wrong and I probably
am. Just please do not sue me.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
>Yes, you are correct. The rivets need the extra "bite". As for anti-chafing,
>I used a good quality, cloth tape (ie: medical tape) on all SHARP edges.
Ray and all...
Stits makes an anti-chafe tape that frankly looks a lot like a coarse weave
adhesive tape that has medium stick qualities. I have no idea how if any
it differs from the garden variety of commonly available adhesive tape. I
do know that it cost about $9 a roll and the Stits video recommends it
instead of "plain old tape"... Something about mildew if I remember
correctly. One roll is large enough to do quite a few planes (just
covering the sharp edges). I used only about 3 yards. I have given away a
lot of it to others and still have a bunch left. If anyone needs any send
me a self addressed envelope with a couple of stamps on it and I will send
you some. My mailing address is 14700 Marsh Lane, #821, Addison, Tx. 75234.
Later,
--
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC
striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker
(972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Anti-chafe Tape |
Before I started covering my tail, I called Randy at R&R to ask about
the lack of anti-chafing tape in the covering kit. He told me that you
can use cloth hospital tape (like someone else mentioned), but you don't
really have to use any at all. He said that if he were doing the video
again, he wouldn't have used any. It makes sense to me that there won't
be any chafing because the Poly-Brush will stick the fabric to the
surface underneath. On the other hand, I doubt it would hurt anything to
have it. I didn't use any, but it's too early to tell how well it's
going to work out in the long run.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
The first I heard of anti-chafe tape was from Cliff Stripling. He gave
me some with the paint I bought from him (Thanks again Cliff!) I was using
it on the worst of sharp edges to reduce the work involved in making everything
smooth and burr-free. Even after belt sanding all parts before assembly, I
found things that were sharp from certain angles I hadn't thought to sand,
so I would file some more and finally tape over the worst of it.
I had a pre-cover inspection by the local EAA technical advisor, Walt Mount.
Walt was full of great advise from years of experience with "rag and tube"
airplanes. His recommendation was to use anti-chafe tape on everything. He
said if you use a whole roll and add maybe 1/2 a pound to your airframe,
when you get all done covering you will still find places that could have
benefited from some tape. He was right.
I would call the stuff "Smoothing Tape". As Russell pointed out, there
really is no relative movement and so no chafing. But because the tape is
under there, the really sharp edges that are sometimes unavoidable, are
smoothed somewhat. I cannot see any of the tape I put on now that it is
covered, in other words it does not show thru the fabric. But, I can see
some edges of things that look sharp, that did NOT get any anti-chafe tape.
I think the fabric is very tough and these visible edges of gussets and rivet
heads may never wear thru. But if they were covered with "Smoothing Tape"
anti-chafe tape, they would not show thru the fabric and paint. One of the
things I find the coolest about a Stits-covered tubing structure is that
until you touch it you cannot be sure it is fabric, because it is so smooth
looking when applied and painted well.
My 2 cents worth: put Smoothing tape everywhere, you won't regret it.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Subaru engines |
I have seen a subaru with belt drive. It started easy It probably had close
to 1to1 reduction. It was a pusher.
Mike Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | molu(at)ACHILLES.NET (Lucien Morais) |
Hello again.
I did removed my wing to fix the gap seal between the wing and ailerons and
while it was in the workshop for a while ,I heard a noise and found out I
had ice in my ailerons.
There was a thread a while ago about drains holes.
Can somenody tell me, what to do about humidity in the wings?
Tank,s Lucien.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | anti-chafe stuff |
If you use anti-chafe tape, i wouldn't think you need to go hog wild with
it. The use of tape didn't occur to me when I built my FS 3 years ago.
I did, however, bring the stits on the bottom of the wing up and over the
nose of each rib and polytac'd it there for a dbl layer. That's pretty
much the only place i did this and I have no chafing problems.
I'm skeptical about adhesive backed products, especially inside the
covered parts. On hot summer days here the adhesive backed velcro on my
wing gap seal has gotten soft and not lasted, and my plane is generally
not outside much. I assume also that the inside of the wing probably
doesn't get very warm and is protected from UV. The point is, you could
use polytac'd stits instead of tape.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.nmu.edu> |
I've been a lurker until now, considering my options.
I've got three question. I'd love some help.
- If I build an ultralight, will I be able to fly it at the local airport?
Can I take my time, pick through the weather, and fly Xcountry, landing at
airports along the way?
- I'm also thinking about building the two seat Kolb. I understand that
this would have to be an experimental aircraft, not an ultralight. How
long does this actually take real people? Can I expect to finish this in
a Summer? How much will it cost, start to finish?
- Is anyone involved with Kolb (or like) aircraft anywhere in the Upper
Peninsula of Michigan? I'd love to meet/talk/see-your-plane!
-Thanks
-Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Started help |
>----------
>From: Randy Appleton[SMTP:randy(at)euclid.acs.nmu.edu@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 1997 1:18 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Started help
>
>I've been a lurker until now, considering my options.
>
>I've got three question. I'd love some help.
>
>- If I build an ultralight, will I be able to fly it at the local airport?
>Can I take my time, pick through the weather, and fly Xcountry, landing at
>airports along the way?
I think the law says that you should have access to any public airport.
the reality is that it is up to the operator of the airport, some are
ultralight friendly some are not. It makes it much easier if you act
airplane like in that you have a radio and follow standard patterns and
basicly stay out of everyone's way.
>
>- I'm also thinking about building the two seat Kolb. I understand that
>this would have to be an experimental aircraft, not an ultralight. How
>long does this actually take real people? Can I expect to finish this in
>a Summer? How much will it cost, start to finish?
It is going to take me 4 years, I have not been keeping track of the
hours. Someone on the list built a firefly (I think) in a couple of
months with his father. The amount of time required to build the two
seat I dont think would be that much more than single seats assuming you
keep it simple and used packaged engines. You could finish it in a
summer if you have up to 500 hours of spare time in you summer. My
MKIII will cost about $12,000 when it is finished.
>
>- Is anyone involved with Kolb (or like) aircraft anywhere in the Upper
>Peninsula of Michigan? I'd love to meet/talk/see-your-plane!
>
>-Thanks
>-Randy
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Started help |
Randy Appleton wrote:
> - If I build an ultralight, will I be able to fly it at the local airport?
> Can I take my time, pick through the weather, and fly Xcountry, landing at
> airports along the way?
As I understand it, a small public airport can keep you out only if it's
designated as "unsafe for ultralights" by the FAA. I'm not quite sure
how you find out whether it's got this designation or not. Many airport
managers don't want UL's around and will likely tell you not to fly
there. Then I guess it's up to you to prove they're not just making up
their own rules. I asked 2 local airports in my area about it when I
was deciding what to build, and both said in no uncertain terms "No
ultralights allowed". Maybe you can legally go there, but you certainly
won't be welcome. On the other hand, if you're just passing through and
buying gas, I can't imagine anyone giving you a hard time as long as you
use a handheld radio and follow the procedures like the GA guys do.
> - I'm also thinking about building the two seat Kolb. I understand that
> this would have to be an experimental aircraft, not an ultralight. How
> long does this actually take real people? Can I expect to finish this in
> a Summer? How much will it cost, start to finish?
It just depends on how much time you've got to spend. I'm building a
SlingShot and currently have the wings and tail together and all covered
but the wings. It's taken 246 hours so far, and I received the first
kit in Oct. The wings were basically completed in 2 weeks vacation that
I took. I'm hopeful that the 3rd kit and engine will arrive by the end
of the month, otherwise I'll have to push back my estimate some. The
obvious option if you're in a hurry (and money's no factor), is to get
the quick build kit. Be careful that you document enough work to
qualify under the 51% rule for registration. My SlingShot will cost
about $15k with a 503 engine and the BRS performance reducing device :-)
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hello,
I have a couple of questions about fuel tanks for anyone that's flying
now.
How low in the tank does the fuel have to get before you get nervous
about the pickup being uncovered? In other words, how much fuel to you
consider unusable unless it's an emergency?
Also, for anyone using the dual 5 gallon tanks, how did you hook them
up? I believe the normal method is to just connect them with a "Y" and
expect that they'll feed evenly. Does that work out OK? Did anyone
connect the tanks together at the bottom just to make sure they stay at
the same level?
I'm thinking of keeping the tanks separate, and using my electric pump
to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. Only the main tank
will feed the engine. I figure this would allow me to use almost every
drop of the aux tank without worry. Does this sound like a reasonable
plan, or have I finally gone off the deep end?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Shamblin <shamblin(at)hc1.hci.net> |
i am wondering about the aux pump idea and the "keep it simple to avoid
surprises" idea. bill www.hci.net/~shamblin
On Thu, 23 Jan 1997, Russell Duffy wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a couple of questions about fuel tanks for anyone that's flying
> now.
>
> How low in the tank does the fuel have to get before you get nervous
> about the pickup being uncovered? In other words, how much fuel to you
> consider unusable unless it's an emergency?
>
> Also, for anyone using the dual 5 gallon tanks, how did you hook them
> up? I believe the normal method is to just connect them with a "Y" and
> expect that they'll feed evenly. Does that work out OK? Did anyone
> connect the tanks together at the bottom just to make sure they stay at
> the same level?
>
> I'm thinking of keeping the tanks separate, and using my electric pump
> to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. Only the main tank
> will feed the engine. I figure this would allow me to use almost every
> drop of the aux tank without worry. Does this sound like a reasonable
> plan, or have I finally gone off the deep end?
>
> --
> Russell Duffy
> rad(at)pen.net
> http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb flyer wannabe |
<< What do you estimate the finished dry weight will be?
I have not calculated the finished weight. But to be on the safe I'm getting
the 503 Rotax.
<< What extras are you planning to install?
I'm installing a full enclosure, 2nd seat Option, Streamline struts, bake
pedals, Super EIS, strobes and a Terra Package (Com, Transponder and alt.
encoder. I live close the Mexican border and it's nice to have when crossing
it).
I have not decided if I'm going to install a BRS parachute.
My plan is a 2 years build time to finish the FS II. I travel alot due to
work and I'm in no hurry to finish it.
<>
I'll plan on updating my website as soon as AOL gets its act together, It's
getting harder to log on. I may have to go to another service provider.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I figure this would allow me to use almost every
drop of the aux tank without worry. Does this sound like a reasonable
plan, or have I finally gone off the deep end? >>
Why dont you just install a 3 way fuel valve. That way you can run one tank
dry then switch to the other tank just like in GA airplanes. In the 12 years
I've been flying I never had to run my tanks so low but with the range of the
FSII and the long spans of desert between airports it would be a nice option
to have.
You wouldn't worry of having the electric fuel pump going out on you and
being stuck with one fuel tank on a cross country trip. I would use the
electric fuel pump as a back up to the engine driven one.
Something to keep in mind:
I was riding right seat in a Navajo when the pilot had to change fuel tanks
as soon as the one went dry. This was due to a long flight from Detroit to El
Paso and bad weather keeping airports closed along the way . Its no fun
hearing the engine sputter before changing fuel tanks even if we had two
engines.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
I have the dual 5-gallon tank setup in my Mk II. A few observations:
- At least on the Mk II, the tanks are angled backwards a bit when the
plane is level. This has two effects:
1) since the filler neck is in the rear, it's slightly lower than the
top of the tank. This means you can't really fill the tank all the way
up. I get 4.5 gallons usable per side.
2) when there is NO fuel visible from the front, there's still enough
in
the back to cover the intake (barely). Rule of thumb is that when it
looks like
you're completely out of gas, you have about 5 minutes left. Not that I
ever
let it get down this far in normal flying!
I originally just teed the two tanks together. After flying it a bit, I
mounted a
separate fuel valve for each tank before the Tee. This works out really
well.
I can drain just one side to help with trim, or I can drain one tank all
the way
down with a solid "reserve". It also helps when you're trying to manage
fuel
for other reasons, like if you had to buy a tank of 100LL, and you want
to run
it down halfway so you can "cut" it with 89 octane later.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Subaru engines -Reply |
Richard, are you putting any kind of electrical system in your airplane?
Does your engine have a mechanical fuel pump? What kind of ignition
does it have, dual? Magnetos? if magnetos what do they look like (are
they mounted on the back of the engine like a airplane engine or do they
look more like a car distributor or one of each? How long of a
propeller are you able to swing? did you have any problems with oil pan
engine mount clearances? What kind of exhaust are you using? And what
was your mothers maiden name? (just kidding) I would appreciate any
info you could provide on the physical challenges of getting it to fit.
Thanks Jason jason(at)acuityinc.com
>----------
>From: Richard Neilsen[SMTP:NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 1997 7:21 AM
>To: jason(at)sluggo.acuityinc.com
>Subject: Subaru engines -Reply
>
>Your approach to the Subaru sounds interesting. I
>talked to someone that Dennis Souder at Kolb
>referred me to. He was flying with (I think) a direct
>drive Subaru. He said that he was very happy with the
>installation and had very good luck with it. He
>indicated that the climb rate wasn't real good. He sold
>the plane and the first thing the new owner did was
>hang a Rotax on it??? The reduction drive you are
>planning should improve the climb rate if it doesn't
>add too much weight.
>
>I'm in the process of putting a VW engine on a MKIII
>that I'm building. I'm using a Great Planes 2180cc
>conversion with direct drive and a 2 blade wood prop.
>Last week I did the first test run of the VW on the
>plane. The engine starts very easy by hand propping
>so much so that I will no longer leave the option open
>for a starter. I forget what I figured as the full weight of
>the engine but it seems like it was app 110lbs with
>app. 75hp. I'm planning to have the plane flying by
>spring time. I will post some thing to let every one
>know how it flies.
>
>The sound of a 4cyl. 4stroke is music compared to
>those 2stroke engines. A water cooled 4stroke should
>sound even better.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks for the info, something else to keep in mind.
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
Forwarded message:
From: skip(at)netline.net (skip staub)
To: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: 97-01-24 18:26:27 EST
>Why don't you just install a 3 way fuel valve. That way you can run one tank
>dry then switch to the other tank just like in GA airplanes.
>I was riding right seat in a Navajo when the pilot had to change fuel tanks
>as soon as the one went dry.
There is a major difference between running an ultralights tank dry and that
of the Navajo or similar general aviation aircraft. When the UL's engine
quits it DOESN'T windmill whereas unless you make a conscious effort to stop
the Navajo's engine it'll continue to windmill. No big deal in a GA
aircraft, but not nice in the UL. :)
Regards,
Skip
1984 Ultrastar
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
We set up our fuel tanks just as the manual said too and it seems to
work great. There is no uneven flow of fuel. We just recently put
an electronic fuel gauge on it and it works great. We mounted the
fuel gauge on the floor pan between the two passengers.
Just lettin' you know,
Brandon
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: FW: fuel tanks |
Question, on a gravity fed system with two tanks, it does not matter
if tanks are "Teed" together but wouldn't a lift system requiring a
fuel pump (engine) suck air if one tank runs empty resulting in a
engine out. I believe this is why low wings like Pipers use fuel
tanks selector valve. People who have "Teed" may be surprised.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: FW: fuel tanks
Date: 1/24/97 12:05 PM
I have the dual 5-gallon tank setup in my Mk II. A few observations:
- At least on the Mk II, the tanks are angled backwards a bit when the
plane is level. This has two effects:
1) since the filler neck is in the rear, it's slightly lower than the top of
the tank. This means you can't really fill the tank all the way up. I get 4.5
gallons usable per side.
2) when there is NO fuel visible from the front, there's still enough in
the back to cover the intake (barely). Rule of thumb is that when it looks like
you're completely out of gas, you have about 5 minutes left. Not that I ever
let it get down this far in normal flying!
I originally just teed the two tanks together. After flying it a bit, I mounted
a
separate fuel valve for each tank before the Tee. This works out really well.
I can drain just one side to help with trim, or I can drain one tank all the way
down with a solid "reserve". It also helps when you're trying to manage fuel
for other reasons, like if you had to buy a tank of 100LL, and you want to run
it down halfway so you can "cut" it with 89 octane later.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: FW: Subaru engines -Reply |
There was a outfit advertising in the Ultralight Flyer magazine a
while back with an adapter kit to mount a Rotax reduction drive to a
Subaru engine. For the 70-80 Hp. engines it sounded good. The other
post make comment about a person buying a Kolb with a Subaru and the
climb was poor. That means there not able to extract the power of the
engine because they can't rev up the engine to get the horse power, a
reduction drive would make a lot of difference. Earthstar experienced
a similar problem putting a 2-cylinder volkwagen type engine on their
plane, a 277 Rotax by far out performed it.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: FW: Subaru engines -Reply
Date: 1/24/97 4:54 PM
Richard, are you putting any kind of electrical system in your airplane?
Does your engine have a mechanical fuel pump? What kind of ignition
does it have, dual? Magnetos? if magnetos what do they look like (are
they mounted on the back of the engine like a airplane engine or do they
look more like a car distributor or one of each? How long of a
propeller are you able to swing? did you have any problems with oil pan
engine mount clearances? What kind of exhaust are you using? And what
was your mothers maiden name? (just kidding) I would appreciate any
info you could provide on the physical challenges of getting it to fit.
Thanks Jason jason(at)acuityinc.com
>----------
>From: Richard Neilsen[SMTP:NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 1997 7:21 AM
>To: jason(at)sluggo.acuityinc.com
>Subject: Subaru engines -Reply
>
>Your approach to the Subaru sounds interesting. I
>talked to someone that Dennis Souder at Kolb
>referred me to. He was flying with (I think) a direct
>drive Subaru. He said that he was very happy with the
>installation and had very good luck with it. He
>indicated that the climb rate wasn't real good. He sold
>the plane and the first thing the new owner did was
>hang a Rotax on it??? The reduction drive you are
>planning should improve the climb rate if it doesn't
>add too much weight.
>
>I'm in the process of putting a VW engine on a MKIII
>that I'm building. I'm using a Great Planes 2180cc
>conversion with direct drive and a 2 blade wood prop.
>Last week I did the first test run of the VW on the
>plane. The engine starts very easy by hand propping
>so much so that I will no longer leave the option open
>for a starter. I forget what I figured as the full weight of
>the engine but it seems like it was app 110lbs with
>app. 75hp. I'm planning to have the plane flying by
>spring time. I will post some thing to let every one
>know how it flies.
>
>The sound of a 4cyl. 4stroke is music compared to
>those 2stroke engines. A water cooled 4stroke should
>sound even better.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "MIKE SPREUTELS" <spreutel(at)norwich.net> |
do you feel that the kolb mark 3 is tough enough for full time trainning
in a hard landing is the running gear easy to replace
what drawbacks with a mark 3 would you see.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
I installed a 12 gallon tank that I purchased from a boat dealer. That
allowed me to make an outside fill cap. I ran 1.5" tubing from the tank
flange to the outside fill cap flange. I bought the fill cap from the same
boat dealer. Now no fuel spills on the inside of the cabin. Total cost of
tank and cap was <$100.00.
I use an electric fuel pump as a backup and to fill the carb float bowls
before starting. I have it plumbed parallel to the Mikuni engine pulse pump.
So far (115 hours) no problems with the setup.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To all...
I saw a post about tank fillers and thought I would pass this along. I
turned my tanks around (put the filler cap to the front) because I wanted
to be able to top my tanks off pretty full and I also didn't want to any
possible leakage out the caps while in a climb out (which wouldn'ts
probably happen anyway). I found that filling them from the seat area with
the typical 5 gallon jug was risking a spill every time. I bought one of
those funnels available everywhere with the long tapering bottom and bought
a piece of soft clear plastic tubing that fit snugly over the end. I
fastened a piece of piano wire (coat hanger would do just as well) in a
coil around the soft tube near the end with a hook bend in the other end.
When I refuel, I slip the funnel through the loop formed by the lower
radiator hose (my hose might be different from yours as I put 90 degree
bend on each side to route it behind rather than under the engine) and run
the tube over the rear fuselage and into the tank. I fasten the hook over
the lip of the tank to insure the tube stays in place while filling. From
the back by the prop I can lift and fill with the 5 gallon jug easily with
no fear of spilling any. Another difference on my plane is I have doors on
the rear top of the fuselage I can open and I can see the tanks easily
while filling from the rear so as not to overfill and run over.
Later,
--
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC
striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker
(972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
I seem to have stumbled on a popular topic. Thanks to everyone that
sent info and advice on my fuel tank questions. As I expected, there
are several methods of successfully hooking these things up. My
preference has always been to have one tank of >= 10 gallon capacity
rather than the 2 tank setup. I understand that it will require some
modification of the cage to be able to get the larger tank through the
opening and into position. When I get the cage in a couple weeks, I'll
start looking into what's required. If that's too involved, I'll fall
back to using the stock tanks.
Thanks again,
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Daniel D. Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Prop length and pitch |
Need information regarding wooden prop length and pitch for a firestar
II. Changing from a three blade flexible prop to a wooden one. Had an
accident because of the flexible props inability to respond quick
enough.
As the prop is destroyed (an alot the plane) can't measure the one i
had. Thanks. dbush(at)gte.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: KOLB TRAINER |
SPREUTELS) writes:
<< do you feel that the kolb mark 3 is tough enough for full time trainning
in a hard landing is the running gear easy to replace
what drawbacks with a mark 3 would you see.
>>
Yes, the MkIII is tough enough. The landing gear is easy to replace or
repair. I think the biggest drawback to training is lack of dual controls.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
On Sat, 25 Jan 1997, Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
> To all...
>
> I saw a post about tank fillers and thought I would pass this along. I
> turned my tanks around (put the filler cap to the front) because I wanted
> to be able to top my tanks off pretty full and I also didn't want to any
> possible leakage out the caps while in a climb out (which wouldn'ts
> probably happen anyway). I found that filling them from the seat area with
> the typical 5 gallon jug was risking a spill every time.
A Kolb owner at my club uses the slickest method I have yet seen to fill
his tank. He puts a gas can of pre-mix on a stepladder. Then puts one
end one of those neat little siphon thingies into the tank, the other
into the gas can. A few shakes of the auto-siphon and the gas quickly
starts flowing into the tank. When full, just pull the end out of the can
on the step ladder. No muss, no fuss. I've already bought my siphon
thingy for when my plane is done.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | BFI or CFI instructing in a Kolb??? |
To All... Chicken Little here...
Wanted to know if anyone knew of an instructor using a Kolb (MK II or III)
who would be located anywhere near the Dallas - Ft.Worth, Tx. area. I have
heard of one located in the Miami, Fla. area, one in California, and maybe
one somewhere in Olkahoma. I know that Dan does it at the Kolb company,
but I was hoping to find someone nearer to this area. Any information
would be appreciated.
I would like an hour or two if possible in the real thing before I try out
my own plane.
Later,
--
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC
striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker
(972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
kolb(at)intrig.com (internet!intrig.com!kolb)
I use a 55 gal drumb with a hand crank pump with a bent copper pipe
to act as a hook to keep it in the tank when filling.
The fuel drumb sits on a 2' x 2' trailer that I pull with a lawn mower out
to
the driveway when I need more gas.
This works well if you are lucky to have what I call an ultralight park.
(the place I fly from has about 10 ultralights and 9 hangers)
We all get our fuel at the same time so the truck dumps off around
300 gal. at a time.
Mark Hansen
----------
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling
Subject: Kolb-List: Tank filler
Date: Saturday, January 25, 1997 10:22PM
To all...
I saw a post about tank fillers and thought I would pass this along. I
turned my tanks around (put the filler cap to the front) because I wanted
to be able to top my tanks off pretty full and I also didn't want to any
possible leakage out the caps while in a climb out (which wouldn'ts
probably happen anyway). I found that filling them from the seat area with
the typical 5 gallon jug was risking a spill every time. I bought one of
those funnels available everywhere with the long tapering bottom and bought
a piece of soft clear plastic tubing that fit snugly over the end. I
fastened a piece of piano wire (coat hanger would do just as well) in a
coil around the soft tube near the end with a hook bend in the other end.
When I refuel, I slip the funnel through the loop formed by the lower
radiator hose (my hose might be different from yours as I put 90 degree
bend on each side to route it behind rather than under the engine) and run
the tube over the rear fuselage and into the tank. I fasten the hook over
the lip of the tank to insure the tube stays in place while filling. From
the back by the prop I can lift and fill with the 5 gallon jug easily with
no fear of spilling any. Another difference on my plane is I have doors on
the rear top of the fuselage I can open and I can see the tanks easily
while filling from the rear so as not to overfill and run over.
Later,
--
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC
striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker
(972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Little <blittle(at)communique.net> |
Subject: | Flight Characteristics of the Mark III |
Hey guys:
I have finally finished the Mark III I started 2 years and 2 months ago. I
went through the inspection process like a breeze and even agreed to flying
the FAA inspector when my 40 is flown off.
I have a question or two for anyone who has some experience flying the Mark
III with the Rotax 618. I have that engine with a "E" Gear 3.47:1 and a 3
blade 70" tapered tip Warp drive propeller. My question is does anyone get
80 mph in cruise with this plane? If so how can I get it. I am seeing
1200-1300 ft/min climb but I can only muster 70-72 out of the bird.
I am planning to fly it to sun-n-fun this year and need a bit more cruise.
Thank you
Bill Little
N1618B
Kolb Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: BFI or CFI instructing in a Kolb??? |
More like smart little.
>----------
>From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling[SMTP:striplic(at)dfw.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, January 27, 1997 3:52 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: BFI or CFI instructing in a Kolb???
>
>To All... Chicken Little here...
>
>Wanted to know if anyone knew of an instructor using a Kolb (MK II or III)
>who would be located anywhere near the Dallas - Ft.Worth, Tx. area. I have
>heard of one located in the Miami, Fla. area, one in California, and maybe
>one somewhere in Olkahoma. I know that Dan does it at the Kolb company,
>but I was hoping to find someone nearer to this area. Any information
>would be appreciated.
>
>I would like an hour or two if possible in the real thing before I try out
>my own plane.
>
>Later,
>
>
>--
>Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC
>striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker
>(972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of the Mark III |
70-72 is not so bad for a cruise speed. My mark 2 with a 503 and a 64" prop
cruised between 60 and 65 indicated at 5800 rpm. When checked with the gps
those numbers were maybe a couple of mph high.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of the Mark III |
Little) writes:
<< have a question or two for anyone who has some experience flying the Mark
III with the Rotax 618. I have that engine with a "E" Gear 3.47:1 and a 3
blade 70" tapered tip Warp drive propeller. My question is does anyone get
80 mph in cruise with this plane? If so how can I get it. I am seeing
1200-1300 ft/min climb but I can only muster 70-72 out of the bird.
>>
Are you sure that 70 is your actual cruise speed. My Mark III cruises at 75
indicated but actually is doing about 80. This is with a 582 and 72" tapered
Warp Dr. -- C box @ 3:1. When I first flew it it indicated 95 to 100 and I
thought I did a great job of building. However, locating the static source
out of the cabin brought readings down to a more realistic level.
Where is your static port? If it is at the back of the ASI, your readings
may not even be close to what you are actually getting and the variation
could be either way!
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of the Mark III |
Hello,
> I have a question or two for anyone who has some experience flying
> the Mark III with the Rotax 618. I have that engine with a "E" Gear
> 3.47:1 and a 3 blade 70" tapered tip Warp drive propeller. My
> question is does anyone get 80 mph in cruise with this plane? If so
> how can I get it. I am seeing 1200-1300 ft/min climb but I can only
> muster 70-72 out of the bird.
My father and I finished a Mark III this last fall and we get it to
cruise at about 75-80. It is important that you place your static
port correctly. When we first started flying it we had very high
readings because we had the static port in the cockpit and that of
course caused a negative pressure ect. Also if you have a full
enclosure, when you put this on and take it off you get a pressure
change in the cockpit. To solve this problem my father took a small
aluminum tube and pounded the end down so it has just a little hole
in the end. He then stuck this out the bottom of the nose cone and
attached it to the static line. This seemed to work really well.
Happy flying,
Brandon
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | clarification on list/Kolb |
Somehow I got my address book messed up. Would someone drop me the correct e
mail address for Dennis at Kolb. Somehow when I have sent him messages I sent
them to this Kolb group.
thanks
tim loehrke 98% complete on my Firestar 2.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | covering question |
I am just expanding my knowledge, why when riveting the fabric on the top
ribs do you stop at the high apex and why are the false ribs not riveted. The
bottom false ribs are and so is the full length of the whole rib. It seems to
me that the extra rivets in the front would be helpful. I have some ideas but
thought I would throw out the question.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net> |
Subject: | Re: covering question |
Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I am just expanding my knowledge, why when riveting the fabric on the top
> ribs do you stop at the high apex and why are the false ribs not riveted. The
> bottom false ribs are and so is the full length of the whole rib. It seems to
> me that the extra rivets in the front would be helpful. I have some ideas but
> thought I would throw out the question.
Answer from a non-expert.----The upper leading edge should always be
under positive pressure, the after third of the airfoil under negative
pressure, and the bottom, though essentially positive, is straight and
subject to drumming. Why weaken the tube by drilling unnecessary holes
at the area of highest load?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking for some
wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants for
the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel pants
that would fit and look good on a firestar II?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Fri, 31 Jan 1997, Cal wrote:
> I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking for some
> wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants for
> the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel pants
> that would fit and look good on a firestar II?
>
You might try Harbor Ultralight Products. They used to do a lot of this,
especially for Kolb planes. I'm not sure if they are still in this sort
of business, and you'd have to check for their phone number (sorry) .
I have their address only : 1326 Batey Place, Harbor City, CA 90710-1209
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
----------
> On Fri, 31 Jan 1997, Cal wrote:
>
> > I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking for
some
> > wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants
for
> > the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel
pants
> > that would fit and look good on a firestar II?
> >
> You might try Harbor Ultralight Products. They used to do a lot of this,
> especially for Kolb planes. I'm not sure if they are still in this sort
> of business, and you'd have to check for their phone number (sorry) .
> I have their address only : 1326 Batey Place, Harbor City, CA 90710-1209
>
> --------|--------
> Ben Ransom (*)
> UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
> Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
> Sparks Fiberglass, has nice ones too,, Info on them in Kitplanes mag.
classified ads..
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
----------
>
>
> ----------
> > On Fri, 31 Jan 1997, Cal wrote:
> >
> > > I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking
for
> some
> > > wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants
> for
> > > the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel
> pants
> > > that would fit and look good on a firestar II?
> > >
> > You might try Harbor Ultralight Products. They used to do a lot of
this,
> > especially for Kolb planes. I'm not sure if they are still in this sort
> > of business, and you'd have to check for their phone number (sorry) .
> > I have their address only : 1326 Batey Place, Harbor City, CA
90710-1209
> >
> > --------|--------
> > Ben Ransom (*)
> > UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
> > Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
> > http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
> > Sparks Fiberglass, has nice ones too,, Info on them in Kitplanes mag.
> classified ads..
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George McCullough" <airman1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Good Evening All,
Is the Kolb Firestar I still available as a kit ?? I went to the
website for Kolb ( Kolb(at)intrig.com ??) and there was no info
available online.
Appreciate any info
|
^ ___________|
/ / | ^
/ 0 / |
_____/ /| / __ __________________
/ _\_| / ^ /GM\ /George McCullough |
\_____/__\_/______________/____\______/ PATCO'81 BOS ARTCC|
/ \ \ (603)889-8707 |
/ o \RANS/KOLB wannabee|
O
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
Subject: | Kolb Firestar (fwd) |
> Is the Kolb Firestar I still available as a kit ?? I went to
the
> website for Kolb ( Kolb(at)intrig.com ??) and there was no info
> available online.
>
intrig.com supports the Kolb mailing list but does not house any
Kolb web stuff. I am not sure if there is an "official" Kolb web
site or not. There are some people with pictures of planes.
Anyone want to provide some URL's?
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb web page |
The primary Kolb page is kept by Mike Rael and has links to most other
pages. The URL is:
http://www.usa.net/~rael/kolb/index.html
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
Subject: | Fabric attachment to wing |
In regard to the question about fabric fasteners, the fabric only needs
to be attached where it is possible to be lifted off the structure.
Consequently, the only place it doesn't need to be fastened is on the
curvature on the top front of the airfoil. The cordwise tension caused
by heat shrinking the fabric causes the fabric to dip between ribs. To
lift off the ribs at this point, the fabric would have to be completely
flattened by the lift (negative pressure). Its not possible to generate
that much of a vacuum and keep the wings on the airplane.
I hope this explanation helps.
Hank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Kolb's latest E-mail address |
February 2nd.
I visited Kolb's factory (a beautiful old Chester County farm) and
picked up an updated business card. It reads as follows:
Customer Support: (610) 948-4136
Fax: 948-6727
Builder Assistance: 948-4527 (Saturdays - 717-362-1064)
Builder Assist. E-mail dlsouder(at)aol.com or flykolb(at)epix.net
Now don't all call at once! Hope this helps.
John Hanson
pilotone(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Daniel D. Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | ASI and static hookup |
Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator
and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered
placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but
not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static"
tube shorter than the pitot tube?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings,
It looks like I'm not having a good delivery year so far.
Has anyone had any trouble getting Grand Rapids to ship you EIS? I
ordered on by Fax on Dec 11th then ended up calling them on Jan 6th to
order the BRS. When I asked about the EIS, they found my order buried
under some other stuff. He apologized and said it would go right out,
but when I called him on the 29th he couldn't find the order at all. I
faxed him a new copy and have started the waiting mode again. It's not
like I really need it now, but it was only supposed to take 3 weeks. I
haven't heard anything that makes me believe the BRS was ordered either,
though it's still early for that. Speaking of the BRS, I saw the Beyond
2000 episode last week and it was very impressive. I'm no longer sorry
I ordered one.
LEAF finally sent my IVO prop last week, but I'm thinking they shipped
the wrong version. They appear to have charged me for the standard
adjustable version rather than the quick adjust that I ordered. I
haven't quite decided how bad that would be. Maybe when it arrives I'll
find out that I just got a special deal on the q-adj (but I wouldn't
count on it).
Speaking of things that haven't arrived yet, I'm still waiting on the
cage and engine. Last time I talked to Dennis, they were waiting on the
powdercoaters. At least waiting for them is better than painting all
those tubes myself.
I did receive the 2 videos that I ordered from Kolb the other day. The
early days tape was a good history since I never saw the early designs.
I wish there had been more footage of the factory "Hot Dog" pilots
aerobatics (all done strictly in the name of testing of course ).
On the subject of safety equipment, I'll probably install a 4 point
harness in the front seat for a little better support. The other item I
need to be considering is a helmet. How many people wear helmets in an
enclosed plane like the SlingShot? I really don't want to wear one, but
it's probably a good enough idea to be worth the discomfort and expense.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a good model with headsets
built in?
Lastly, I got my expired medical renewed today. I should be good for 3
years now. I still need a biennial review, tailwheel endorsement, and
checkout in something as light as the SlingShot. I'll start working on
these items when I get a completion date in site for the plane. It
looks like May is about the earliest I can hope for.
Well, I guess that's it. If you've managed to make it this far,
congratulations on your will to read boring drivel :-)
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mi pajina en espaol |
Para los aficionados de Espaa, Colombia y Mxico que me han mandado cartas
electronicas diciendo que les gusta mi pajina del internet agrege el texto en
espaol.
Para encontar mi pajina en el internet:
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
Una nota; yo no represento ni trabajo para la compaia Kolb nada mas soy un
simple aficionado.
Translation:
For all the web browsers from Spain, Columbia and Mexico who have sent me
e-mail telling me they like my FireStar building web site I have translated
the Text in Spanish.
To find my web page on the internet:
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
A note; I don't work or represent Kolb Aircraft Company, I'm just an amateur
builder.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
willu(at)aol.com
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish) |
Subject: | Re: Misc Rambling |
At 5:33 PM 2/4/97, Russell Duffy wrote:
[snip]
The other item I
>need to be considering is a helmet. How many people wear helmets in an
>enclosed plane like the SlingShot? I really don't want to wear one, but
>it's probably a good enough idea to be worth the discomfort and expense.
>Does anyone have any recommendations for a good model with headsets
>built in?
>
If you have the money, and want to wear a helmet that fits *perfectly*, a
company out in CA called Flight Suits Unlimited makes fantastic form fitted
helmets. If you get one, they send you a wax mold kit first. You heat it up
and mash it over your head, then let it cool. Take a bunch of other
measurements with their enclosed calipers, then stick it all back in the
box and return it. A few weeks later you should have a great fitting
helmet. Much better than the ones that have been foam poured, by the way.
I wore one as a military pilot, for upwards of 10 hours a day, with no problems.
Call directory services in San Diego and ask for the company, if you want
to reach them. They *are* expensive, though.
***********************************
Mike Yukish
may106(at)psu.edu
http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html
(814) 863-7143
Applied Research Lab
PO Box 30
State College, PA 16804
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu (Charles Henry) |
Subject: | Re: ASI and static hookup |
>Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator
>and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered
>placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but
>not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static"
>tube shorter than the pitot tube?
>
>I had poor results with the static port (plugged tube and side 1/16" holes)
in front at full throttle the ASI indicated 25 mph.
I now have the static port out the bottom of the fairing, a plugged tube
with a 1/16" hole in the center tie wrapped to the frame tube on the left
side, this seems to at least give a consistant air speed with the short
windshield or full enclosure.
Charles Henry
Hankinson ND
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Misc Rambling |
You asked about helmets. I started out using one probably for the first 20
or 30 hours while I got comfortable with the plane. Then I stoped and just
used a headset. It is not widely known but Dave Clark makes a helmet that a
headset will fit into. It has cut outs at the ears and some snaps inside to
hold the headset. It is shockingly expensive but a very nice thing.
Whenever I took a small child up in the Kolb I would just toss my spare
headset into the helmet and I felt like I was doing the right thing.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
Subject: | Re: Misc Rambling |
Please, please, please send me the address for the form-fitting helmet.\
Thanks
On Wed, 5 Feb 1997, Mike Yukish wrote:
> At 5:33 PM 2/4/97, Russell Duffy wrote:
> [snip]
>
> The other item I
> >need to be considering is a helmet. How many people wear helmets in an
> >enclosed plane like the SlingShot? I really don't want to wear one, but
> >it's probably a good enough idea to be worth the discomfort and expense.
> >Does anyone have any recommendations for a good model with headsets
> >built in?
> >
>
> If you have the money, and want to wear a helmet that fits *perfectly*, a
> company out in CA called Flight Suits Unlimited makes fantastic form fitted
> helmets. If you get one, they send you a wax mold kit first. You heat it up
> and mash it over your head, then let it cool. Take a bunch of other
> measurements with their enclosed calipers, then stick it all back in the
> box and return it. A few weeks later you should have a great fitting
> helmet. Much better than the ones that have been foam poured, by the way.
>
> I wore one as a military pilot, for upwards of 10 hours a day, with no problems.
>
> Call directory services in San Diego and ask for the company, if you want
> to reach them. They *are* expensive, though.
>
>
>
> ***********************************
> Mike Yukish
>
> may106(at)psu.edu
> http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html
> (814) 863-7143
>
> Applied Research Lab
> PO Box 30
> State College, PA 16804
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish) |
Subject: | Re: Misc Rambling |
At 4:27 PM 2/5/97, Bruce Schimmel wrote:
>Please, please, please send me the address for the form-fitting helmet.\
>Thanks
>
>
Flight Suits Unlimited
1675 Pioneer Way
El Cajon, CA 92020
(619) 440-2700
figure on about $110.00 to get an existing helmet refurbished with form-fit
and leather lining, soft ear cups.
***********************************
Mike Yukish
may106(at)psu.edu
http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html
(814) 863-7143
Applied Research Lab
PO Box 30
State College, PA 16804
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. Del More" <ndelmore(at)warped.tiac.net> |
Subject: | Anyone out there? |
Is anyone out there?
Still working, very slowly, on my MK III. Although sometimes I think it
will never be done.
Rejoined the mailing list yesterday but haven't seen anything come through.
Also wondering if messages of interest are being archived anywhere,
especially those relating to the MK III.
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
I have a question about engine EGT and possible leakage. I have
a 447 powered Firestar, and over the winter, the full power EGT has steadily
climbed. I attributed it to the colder leaner air, but recently with
a mild day, and still on my richest ever main jet and needle settings,
my max egt would get upto 1300 (and so i would back off).
I took things apart enf to chk for signs of intake or exhaust leaks at
the intake and exhaust manifolds and found none. All bolts were tight.
The anti-sieze goo in my exhaust pipe elbow fittings had mostly dried
up -- entirely in parts. I'm thinking maybe I could've been getting
air sucking back in here causing the leaner mixture and hotter EGT.
Any one else ever experience this? If not this, then I'll have to take
the top off and check the head gasket i guess. (head torque is okay)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
Subject: | ASI and static hookup -Reply |
I'm building a MKIII and as I haven't had a chance to
test my ideas but this is my 2 cents worth. Any
surface that isn't perfectly alligned with the air flow will
have a boundery layer of positive or negitive pressure.
This boundery layer can be a number of inches thick
in places and almost nonexistant in others. The trick
to getting a good static source is to get the static tube
outside of the boundery layer. Maybe Dennis Souder
has suggestions on the best locations.
I have mounted my static tube and pitot tube out the
front of the nose cone. The actual end or sampling
source is 3-4 inches infront of the nose cone. This
maybe longer than necessary or too short, I will find
out in flight testing.
>>> "Daniel D. Bush" 02/04/97
12:07pm >>>
Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air
Speed Indicator
and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement?
Have considered
placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar
II fairing but
not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is
the "static"
tube shorter than the pitot tube?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
Subject: | Attching fiberglass fairing |
On a FSII, the prescribed way to attaching the fiberglass fairing is to
rivet aft panel to two steel tabs, and use alumimun rivets spaced 2" on
two cross-members underneath. (The aluminum is self-sealing -- same result
would be sealed steel rivets.)
Has anyone tried or thought about a scheme using u-bolts for the
side tabs and machine screws (1/8", same size as rivets) loctited to the
bottom cross members? Any structural, rust problems in doing this to allow
removal of fiberglass fairing?
Bruce Schimmel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
I had a similar situation on the 503 on my mark 2. The Egt just kept going
up and acted very counterintuitive. This happeded over a period of months.
The engine and exhaust system checked out fine on pre-flight. Then one day
the egts got so far out of hand I landed. I started looking over the plane
on the ground and realized there was a hairline crack in the muffler that was
not visible when the muffler was cold, but opened way up at 1200. The crack
was sufficent to reduce the backpressure in the muffler and raise the egt.
The crack was on the big 180 degree turn as the manifold comes around into
the can. Those parts are just stampled out and welded on the edge. It
cracked on the highest point in the radius. This, by the way, is the reason
whay it is so important to have a good coating on the muffler, so you can see
a crack if it happens. I recomend jet hot. 1-800-432-3379. Excellent stuff
and much cheaper than plating. good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish) |
Subject: | Re: ASI and static hookup -Reply |
At 9:08 AM 2/6/97, Richard Neilsen wrote:
>I'm building a MKIII and as I haven't had a chance to
>test my ideas but this is my 2 cents worth. Any
>surface that isn't perfectly alligned with the air flow will
>have a boundery layer of positive or negitive pressure.
>This boundery layer can be a number of inches thick
>in places and almost nonexistant in others. The trick
>to getting a good static source is to get the static tube
>outside of the boundery layer. Maybe Dennis Souder
>has suggestions on the best locations.
>
Why expose it to the outside airstream? Why not stick it inside the
fuselage, hidden right beneath the instrument panel? Have it measure the
pressure inside the fuselage, where the airflow would be calmest? I would
think that would give you your best ambient air pressure. Maybe surround
the probe with one of those plastic mesh scouring pads, to shield it from
any buffeting.
***********************************
Mike Yukish
may106(at)psu.edu
http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html
(814) 863-7143
Applied Research Lab
PO Box 30
State College, PA 16804
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net> |
Subject: | Re: Anyone out there? |
N.B. Del More wrote:
>
> Is anyone out there?
>
> Still working, very slowly, on my MK III. Although sometimes I think it
> will never be done.
>
> Rejoined the mailing list yesterday but haven't seen anything come through.
> Also wondering if messages of interest are being archived anywhere,
> especially those relating to the MK III.
>
> Noel
I have MkIII with about 100 hours on it. I love it but I have some
wishes. I wish the gear legs were longer to set the plane up higher.I
fly out of a short downhill field and often have to do carrier landings
as the plane keeps on floating with ground effect. The gear legs bend
too easily. They are guaranteed to bend at gross weight under NORMAL
CONDITIONS. I wish the throttle was in a better location.(I moved
mine).I built 2 aluminum bins, one on either side of the fuel tanks. One
is for storage and the other, which is open on the bottom, holds the
chute in position to fire straight down between the tubes. Living in
Hawaii I don't need a full enclosure. I built partial side windows
which are a must for comfort. It looks like a helicopter. The 582 is
barely adequate at gross weight but has enough power with 2 lightweight
people.
Terry Wells
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: ASI and static hookup -Reply |
The pitot system works off of a difference in air pressure and quite
often the pressure inside the cabin is lower because of the slip stream
of air going by all of the cracks and sucking cabin air out. In an open
cockpit you could probably find areas of high pressure and areas of low
pressure depending on where you measure. In a closed cabin with the
static source inside you may be able to change you airspeed readings by
opening and closing vents. that is why on general aviation aircraft the
static source is almost always outside the aircraft and at a 90 degree
angle to the flow of the air. There were earlier postings of someone
who attached two tubes together with epoxy and plugged the end of the
lower tube and drilled 2 1/32 inch holes one in each side. the upper
tube was extended with a flexible coupling for the pressure source, this
seems like it has a good chance of being accurate and will be how I
build mine. The bottom line is you never know how accurate you airspeed
indicator is going to be until you get a chance to test it.
>----------
>From: may106(at)psu.edu@acuityinc.com[SMTP:may106(at)psu.edu@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Thursday, February 06, 1997 7:37 AM
>To: Richard Neilsen
>Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup -Reply
>
>At 9:08 AM 2/6/97, Richard Neilsen wrote:
>>I'm building a MKIII and as I haven't had a chance to
>>test my ideas but this is my 2 cents worth. Any
>>surface that isn't perfectly alligned with the air flow will
>>have a boundery layer of positive or negitive pressure.
>>This boundery layer can be a number of inches thick
>>in places and almost nonexistant in others. The trick
>>to getting a good static source is to get the static tube
>>outside of the boundery layer. Maybe Dennis Souder
>>has suggestions on the best locations.
>>
>
>Why expose it to the outside airstream? Why not stick it inside the
>fuselage, hidden right beneath the instrument panel? Have it measure the
>pressure inside the fuselage, where the airflow would be calmest? I would
>think that would give you your best ambient air pressure. Maybe surround
>the probe with one of those plastic mesh scouring pads, to shield it from
>any buffeting.
>
>
>***********************************
>Mike Yukish
>
>may106(at)psu.edu
>http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html
>(814) 863-7143
>
>Applied Research Lab
>PO Box 30
>State College, PA 16804
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: ASI and static hookup |
On Tue, 4 Feb 1997, Daniel D. Bush wrote:
> Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator
> and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered
> placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but
> not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static"
> tube shorter than the pitot tube?
Hi Daniel,
I fly a Firestar KXP and have added no routing of the static port. That
is, it is simply open on the back of the airspeed gauge, which is mounted
in a normal location on my FG panel. I get very accurate IAS readings
at all speeds.
Somebody else commented about mounting the static line outside the
boundary layer. Maybe this was a typo?. Air velocity and pressures
relative to the plane are high OUTSIDE the boundary layer. That is why
we use long enf pitot tubes ...to get the frontal air intake OUT of the
boundary layer. With the static line we want to do just the opposite, i.e.
simply measure ambient barometric pressure.
(btw, i'm not an engineer)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Terry Wells' comments on 582 power and landing gear. |
Terry: Are your gear legs the 7075 aluminum, tapered from about 1.5 inches
down to maybe 1 inch at the wheel end (same as mine, purchased from Kolb
1 year ago this month)? What do you call your gross weight, at which they
bend apparently easily? This worries me. I had recurrant gear problems
with the last ultra-like plane I owned and never really solved them.
About the 582 power: I assume they all come with dual carbs, this would
make a small difference. I assume you are flying from almost sea-level.
Have you done any main jet experiments to be sure you are getting all the
power available? If you have a local expert to consult, you may get more
power if it is jetted incorrectly. You have prob'ly already gone thru that.
What ratio and prop are you using, diameter, pitch, redrive box, etc.
Maybe I should be pricing the 618 instead...
Terry, thanks for sharing your experience!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Clive Hatcher <100045.2144(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | MARK III operation |
I have recently purchased a seconhand Kolb Twinstar MARK-III (3 years old) in
the UK. The engine is the Rotax 582. Having contacted Kolb, Dan Kurkjian
has suggested that I contact this group to see if somebody can advise me on the
best techniques for short field operation and engine out landings etc.
My experience to date is 650 Hrs on 3-axis aircraft (most of this on sailplanes)
200 Hrs of this is on Ultralights and 7 Hrs on the MARK-III.
I would also appreciate any help or advice you have to offer on the operation or
maintenance of this aircraft.
Best regards,
Clive Hatcher.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Subject: | Re: ASI and static hookup -Reply |
Hello fellow Kolbers,
> Why expose it to the outside airstream? Why not stick it inside the
> fuselage, hidden right beneath the instrument panel? Have it measure
> the pressure inside the fuselage, where the airflow would be
> calmest? I would think that would give you your best ambient air
> pressure. Maybe surround the probe with one of those plastic mesh
> scouring pads, to shield it from any buffeting.
As I have said before, this will not work. With an open cockpit, you
will get a negative air pressure inside the cockpit, and if you
remove the doors or open a vent ect. you will again change the
pressure inside the cockpit, therefore changing the readings on your
ASI. Any manufactured plane has the static port on the outside of
the aircraft. This does not cause buffeting and that is not a
problem. As I have said before, my father and I took a tube and
pounded the end into a point. We left just a little hole in the end
of the tube. We then put the tube through the bottom of the nose
cone perpendicular to the airflow, and then we attached the static
line to the other end of the tube. It is a clean instalation. Only
about 3/4" of the tube sticks out. The airspeed reads correctly.
That is how we solved the problem. We did try flying the plane
without hooking up an external source. It DID NOT work. We got high
airspeed readings.
Brandon Kearbey
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us
(_____________//----------------\^
/ o
( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net> |
Subject: | Re: Terry Wells' comments on 582 power and landing gear. |
Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> Terry: Are your gear legs the 7075 aluminum, tapered from about 1.5 inches
> down to maybe 1 inch at the wheel end (same as mine, purchased from Kolb
> 1 year ago this month)? What do you call your gross weight, at which they
> bend apparently easily? This worries me. I had recurrant gear problems
> with the last ultra-like plane I owned and never really solved them.
> About the 582 power: I assume they all come with dual carbs, this would
> make a small difference. I assume you are flying from almost sea-level.
> Have you done any main jet experiments to be sure you are getting all the
> power available? If you have a local expert to consult, you may get more
> power if it is jetted incorrectly. You have prob'ly already gone thru that.
> What ratio and prop are you using, diameter, pitch, redrive box, etc.
> Maybe I should be pricing the 618 instead...
>
> Terry, thanks for sharing your experience!
Gee! I didn't mean to sound so negative on the 582. I weigh 220 lbs and
my son who sometimes flies with me weighs 230 lbs. The airplane weighs
475 plus fuel so thats asking a lot of such a lightweight engine. Climb
performance is just adaquate for safety on a long runway. The speed
difference between stall and max cruise rpm is only a few knots which
doesn't give a student much margin. This is not necessarily the fault
of the engine but of a high drag airframe. Increasing the horsepower
won't do as much keeping it light.
I should listen to my own advise!
Regarding the gear legs, I don't think mine are 7075. I've been using
steel tube legs for about a year now. Does anyone know if Kolb changed
materials? How can I tell what the temper is? I'd rather use the alum
as they are lighter.
Terry Wells
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
> I recomend jet hot. 1-800-432-3379. Excellent stuff
> and much cheaper than plating. good luck
I've heard of coatings to keep the mufflers from rusting. Is that the
primary purpose of Jet Hot? Is this something you apply yourself
without any special equipment, or do you have to send the muffler
somewhere to have it done?
Thanks,
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi again,
Just found out my cage and engine shipped yesterday! I even put the
tracking number into ABF's online tracking page
(http://www.abfs.com/ontrace.htm) and found out that it's due to arrive
on the 13th. It's almost building time again!
My prop showed up and was wrong as expected. I called up LEAF and they
sent the correct hub right out no questions asked. I'll send back the
standard adjust hub when the quick adjust arrives next week. Still
haven't heard from Grand Rapids though.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Volum" <IBIMIAMI(at)msn.com> |
N.B. Del More"
Subject: | RE: Anyone out there? |
Hi Noel,
I get a flood of messages every day, so if you are coming up dry, there must
be something wrong.
I wrote a long note about my progress (and frustrations) with my own Mk III
some time ago, but it kept coming back to me as undeliverable. If you are
interested, tell me your own eMail address and I'll send it to you directly.
Where are you building? How far along are you?
Peter Volum
mvolum(at)msn.com
or
ibimiami(at)msn.com
----------
----------
From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of N.B. Del More
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 7:20 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Anyone out there?
Is anyone out there?
Still working, very slowly, on my MK III. Although sometimes I think it
will never be done.
Rejoined the mailing list yesterday but haven't seen anything come through.
Also wondering if messages of interest are being archived anywhere,
especially those relating to the MK III.
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
Subject: | List archive available via world wide web |
Many of you have recently asked about a list archive.
Tonight I threw together a quick month-by-month archive;
this was the easiest thing to do quickly. Eventually
I hope to offer searching and the ability to browse
a month at a time.
But, the archives only go back 1 year right now so I think
you would all rather have the archives online in some form
rather than wait until I have time to add the cool stuff.
The URL is:
http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/
I have not been able to try this URL from outside my company,
please let me know if you can not hit it.
The archive is currently *not* updated in real time. I
will have to create a cron job that does this once a night
or so ... it's not in place at the moment
Enjoy,
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | aileron gap seals |
I have researched this a bit and talked to many builders and after I have
looked into sticky clear tape, etc I plan to use the fabric and glue them on
the wings. However, how has everybody else finished them. Do you glue them on
and leave the fabric bare, do you poly brush them to fill the weave, then
paint them. I am fortunate because my plane is white so its no big deal.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Gap seals (empennage seals) |
>I have researched this a bit and talked to many builders and after I have
>looked into sticky clear tape, etc I plan to use the fabric and glue them on
>the wings. However, how has everybody else finished them. Do you glue them on
>and leave the fabric bare, do you poly brush them to fill the weave, then
>paint them. I am fortunate because my plane is white so its no big deal.
>tim
Tim... This is what I did which is not according to the plans. I have 4
flap hinges therefore could not lay the gap seal strips under the hinge
flaps. I attached strips between the hinges rather than one long piece
under the hinges. It makes application much easier in that you don't have
to remove each hinge as you apply the seals. Some would say that the
several pieces instead of one would make it easier for a piece to peel off
and maybe get into the prop. Others would say that it doesn't look as
nice. I think mine look good and are very firmly attached and the
likelihood of peeling is nil. I used the 2" wide finishing tape and
attached the strips to the bare surface of the wing and control surfaces
allowing just a little dip in the span down to the hinge line to allow for
hinge bending. I then filled the weave and finally painted all surfaces.
I also made gap seals for the empennage by sewing together two narrow
strips (maybe 1" wide together down the middle. I then cut pieces long
enough to ("pop into" - meaning that the strips more or less self centered
themselves when slipped into) the gaps between the hinges on the rudder and
elevators. I then painted a little Polytac under each leg of the seal and
glued them down and Polybrushed over all before painting. The only
precaution is to make sure the sewed line is in line with the hinge line so
the gap seal when flexed by the control surface does not pull a glued leg
loose. If that should happen, just reglue allowing a little more room for
movement. Now that turned out looking really nice.
On another subject. I just looked at the archives. They go back to April
of 1996. It is a great reference for everyone.
Later,
--
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC
striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker
(972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: ASI and static hookup |
I just glued 2 1/4 aluminum tubes together with epoxy, one 1 1/2 inch
shorter than the other. The shorter one, I plugged with epoxy. On the
shorter one, drill 3 1/16th inch holes on each side. Stick it straight out
through the nose cone 6-8 inches. On the inside of the nose cone attach it
with plastic tubings so it won't get bent by people running or walking into
it. It worked well for me.
Mike Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
Subject: | FW: ASI and static hookup |
Well, count me in with the group that simply left the static ports of both the
ASI and the altimeter open on the back. Actually, I cut a small piece of
open-cell (breathable) foam to stuff into each, to keep out mud daubers.
Obviously, it won't be have the absolute accuracy of a well-placed
static port. But it's all relative. After flying the plane for a while, I know
what the indicated cruise and stall speeds are. As long as they're
repeatable, who cares if they're 4 or 5 mph "wrong?"
For my pitot tube, I took a male BNC connector, drilled the guts out, and
epoxied a PVC tube fitting to the back. I mounted the BNC connector right
through a hole on the front of the fairing, and ran a plastic tube to the ASI.
My pitot cover is a 75 Ohm thinwire Ethernet terminator!
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish) |
Subject: | Re: FW: ASI and static hookup |
At 5:04 PM 2/8/97, Steve Bennett wrote:
>Well, count me in with the group that simply left the static ports of both the
>ASI and the altimeter open on the back. Actually, I cut a small piece of
>open-cell (breathable) foam to stuff into each, to keep out mud daubers.
>
It would be cool if, next time you go flying, note your altimeter prior to
takeoff. Then keep noting it on your takeoff roll and after liftoff,
staying just off the ground as long as you can. See if the altitude varies,
indicating fluctuations in the cockpit pressure due to airflow effects. It
would be a useful piece of information.
***********************************
Mike Yukish
may106(at)psu.edu
http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html
(814) 863-7143
Applied Research Lab
PO Box 30
State College, PA 16804
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: aileron gap seals |
The p[oly brush will just make a mess. I glued the fabric in place and then
carefully brushed polytone on the fabric gap seal.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gap seals (empennage seals) |
Nice point made here. I put gap seals on the tail on the mark 2, despite th
fact the factory did not call for them. It had a couple of interesting
effects. First there was a little bit of a vibration that happened in the
elevator when I dove the plane near red line. Second, the mark 2 had a trim
tab and the gap seal made it much more effective.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: ASI and static hookup |
Henry) writes:
<< Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator
>and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered
>placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but
>not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static"
>tube shorter than the pitot tube? >>
I made a static port in the side of the fuselage cage (one on each side) with
a plastic insert fitting I found at the hardware store. The installation is
almost invisibel and by having a port on each side I get very consistant
readings on ASI & altimeter. Run a plastic line from the static ports on
your ASI & altimeter to the rear of the cage. Insert a T in the line run
line to the sides of the cage. Pick a flat spot and melt a small hole in the
fabric, insert the end fitting from the outside and hook to the line and you
have a good static system.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Terry Wells' comments on 582 power and landing gear. |
<< Gee! I didn't mean to sound so negative on the 582. I weigh 220 lbs and
my son who sometimes flies with me weighs 230 lbs. The airplane weighs
475 plus fuel so thats asking a lot of such a lightweight engine. Climb
performance is just adaquate for safety on a long runway. The speed
difference between stall and max cruise rpm is only a few knots which
doesn't give a student much margin. This is not necessarily the fault
of the engine but of a high drag airframe. Increasing the horsepower
won't do as much keeping it light. >>
Terry:
I fly my Mark III with a 582 at gross often (sometimes over). I have found
that for good performance I must have my prop pitched to give me 6500 RPM on
takeoff. With that I get off the ground in about 700 feet and climb at about
500 FPM. Also, cruise speed is 65mph @ 5800 and power off stall is about 40
at full gross. This is on a warm summer day. Last year at an ultralight
fly-in I took up an EAA cameraman (weight 240) and myself (225) and a 40 lb
video camera and battery. The numbers quoted above are what I had that day.
If I over pitch my prop to get 6000 RPM on takeoff, my performance is much
worse. ie: 1500ft ground roll, 200 FPM climb.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Volum" <IBIMIAMI(at)msn.com> |
The web site works fine Jeff. Great work!!
Peter Volum
----------
From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of Jeff Stripling
Sent: Saturday, February 08, 1997 5:01 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: List archive available via world wide web
Many of you have recently asked about a list archive.
Tonight I threw together a quick month-by-month archive;
this was the easiest thing to do quickly. Eventually
I hope to offer searching and the ability to browse
a month at a time.
But, the archives only go back 1 year right now so I think
you would all rather have the archives online in some form
rather than wait until I have time to add the cool stuff.
The URL is:
http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/
I have not been able to try this URL from outside my company,
please let me know if you can not hit it.
The archive is currently *not* updated in real time. I
will have to create a cron job that does this once a night
or so ... it's not in place at the moment
Enjoy,
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
--JAA22267.855509481/upsmot01.msn.com--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
Subject: | Strange Kolb Model |
A member of my club showed me a photo of an ultralight he said was a 1988
Kolb Sport. It sort of looked like a Kolb. It had a Kolb tail, and the
wing, pod and fuselage area looked Kolb. However, the tail boom went to the
top of the cage. Mounted to the back of the cage were TWO single
cylindereRotax engines, 277's I would guess. It also had two wing struts
on each side.
My friend is considering purchasing it. Can anyone give me more
information on it? Thanks.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All...
As of today there have been over 500 inquiries on the Kolb Archive records.
Evidently, it is already pretty popular with everyone.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: aileron gap seals |
On Sat, 8 Feb 1997 Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote:
> I have researched this a bit and talked to many builders and after I have
> looked into sticky clear tape, etc I plan to use the fabric and glue them on
> the wings. However, how has everybody else finished them. Do you glue them on
> and leave the fabric bare, do you poly brush them to fill the weave, then
> paint them. I am fortunate because my plane is white so its no big deal.
> tim
I went straight per plans on this, and final finish was no different
from the rest of the wing ...just polybrush and paint. Works fine.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
Subject: | aileron gap seals -Reply |
My 2 cents worth.
Dennis Souder showed me at Oskosh last summer
the latest factory technique for gap seals. They use
clear book binding tape that you can buy at most any
office supply store. They stick the tape on with an
additional layer of tape applied sticky side to sticky in
the area that you don't stick to anything.
This is the way I'm going to do my MKIII.
Richard Neilsen
VW powered MKIII 94% done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: aileron gap seals, clarification |
On Mon, 10 Feb 1997, Richard Neilsen wrote:
> clear book binding tape that you can buy at most any
> office supply store. They stick the tape on with an
Yesterday I said i did my aileron gap seals per plans and it
works great. If the Kolb method has changed to adhesive tape,
i guess i should clarify that when I built my KXP, the plans
method was Stits fabric seals and polytac. That's what i used.
I've not liked the use of adhesive backed velcro, and would
think that other sticky backed products might be as bad. It
just doesn't hold up much more than a summer. Admittedly,
summers are *hot* here in the northern CA valley. Also, where
the adhesive moves slightly, the sticky residue left behind
attracts a gooey line of dirt.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Mk III control stick travel question |
Mark III, kit vintage Jan 1996...
I assembled the control stick and push/pull tube with rod ends to
the elevator bellcrank yesterday. Problem: The stick moves approx 25
degrees from stop-to-stop side-to-side (limited by the aileron stops
on rear aileron bellcrank which contacts the fuselage tube). The
elevator rod ends each allow maybe 7 degrees of rotation. If I
tighten the rod end jamb nuts on both ends of the elevator push-pull
tube, the aileron range is cut in half and does not touch the aileron
stops (nowhere close!). The jamb nut on one end must be loosened to
provide full range side-to-side. I even tried making some special
small washers to place next to the rod-end balls to allow more travel
without rod-end housing contact. Maybe my aileron stops allow too
much travel. I installed lexan pieces on the rear aileron bellcrank
to stop the rotation of the bellcrank about an inch from contact with
the fuselage tube, as described in a telephone conversation with
Dennis Souder a few months back. This keeps the aileron linkages from
going overcenter and locking up (a bad thing). How much aileron
travel is needed, measured in inches as the manual describes the
elevator travel? Should I re-make the aileron stops or allow the
elevator bellcrank rod end to ride loose on the threads?
Thanks, Jim. 85% complete if you don't count the engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CCHIEPPA(at)umassd.edu |
Subject: | FS II Battery Locations |
Hello All,
Is there any one spot on the FS II that 1 or 2 batteries have been placed ?
In the past I have seen only one FS II & the battery was just foward of the
engine location & at the same general elevation. For my FS II I was thinking
of using two smaller 6 volt batteries in series. Any ideas for the best
weight & balance ? What are the locations you have used ?
See Ya
Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: aileron gap seals -Reply |
For what it is worth the Challenger guys have been using that system with the
wide clear tape for a while. A buddy of mine tried it on his Challenger and
it lasted two seasons. By the end the tape was yellowed and cracked and
where it peeled off the remaining adhesive picked up dirt. It was almost
impossible to get off and looked like hell when it did come off. Using
thinned down polytack and reinforcing tape is a bigger pain in the butt but
it lasts longer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: aileron gap seals -Reply |
Richard Neilsen wrote:
> Dennis Souder showed me at Oskosh last summer
> the latest factory technique for gap seals. They use
> clear book binding tape that you can buy at most any
> office supply store. They stick the tape on with an
> additional layer of tape applied sticky side to sticky in
> the area that you don't stick to anything.
Adding my 2 cents,
This is what I'm planning to do as well. I've heard people say that
this method didn't last long, but Dennis said their planes were holding
up fine. In the R&R video, they applied the fabric seals before
painting, and Randy told me that it was awkward trying to handle the
wing with the ailerons attached during the painting steps. Also, if
you're one of those people (like me) that plans to make your hinge pins
removable, you won't want a gap seal that can't be easily removed and
replaced later.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In response to your recent queston about jet hot coatings:
I put 135 hours on a mark 2 and spent alot of time trying to find a
satisfactory coating for the muffler. The black paint that it came with
flaked off in a few hours. I tried some high temp gas grill paint, which
lasted a while but flaked off after a bit as well. I have a friend in the
plating buisness so I had the whole thing nickel plated. It looked great for
a few months, but then the plating began to darken and ultimately began to
come off. I'd say I got fifty hours out of it. (Which translates into about
$4.00 worth of plating per hour of opperating time)
My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success. The
guy I sold my plane to has put 70 hours on it. The coating, which looks like
low polished aluminum looks perfect. No darkening, no flaking. The entire
three piece muffler cost $110.00 to do. It took a week and they give you a
guarentee. call them at 800 432-3379. Get their literature. They make
most of their money coating trick exhoust systems for race cars. I really
can't say enough good things about them, their product looks great and it
works.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jlbaker(at)telepath.com (Jim Baker) |
Subject: | Re: FS II Battery Locations |
I placed mine on the tail boom just behind the fuel tank tray. The battery
sits in a battery box and is held in place with a strap that I made. The
strap uses a wide length of nylon tow strap (the wider the better). The ends
of the strap captured a suitable length of steel rod that would fit through
the eye of an aircraft grade turnbuckle (AN 140 or 135) with cable eyes or
pin eyes. The eye pieces have the steel rod run through them and then the
whole assembly is sewn into the end of the nylon strap and captured there.
| |
| |
|_/_/_/|
|__||__|
||
||
||
Then you just put the battery box on the fuse boom with some neoprene sheet
padding under the box, run the strap around the tube and the box and turn
the turnbuckle tube till its snug and the box won't move or slide. I
machined a small turnbuckle pin lock out of aluminum. The pin is turned
down to fit the hole in the turnbuckle barrel while the other end is about
1/4 to 3/8 in diameter. The small end of the pin is drilled for a small
cowling safety pin or a lock pin. This way I always have the tool I need to
remove or tighten the strap and it keeps the turnbuckle secure.
I was using a 17 AH battery but went to a 26 AH battery. My datum distance
to the battery is 32 inches and the battery weight is 22 LBS. CG is 34.07%
with 180 LB pilot. These figures are for the standard FS2 configuration.
The other thing I've done is to make an aluminum tray that bolts into the
passenger seat location. I carry two five gallon gas tanks and since they
are closer to the datum (14 inches vs 28 for the normal tank location) the
extra weight is cancelled in terms of CG (don't forget gross weight
though..course you won't be anywhere near gross this way).
Hope this helps.
Jim Baker
Elmore City OK
>
>Hello All,
>Is there any one spot on the FS II that 1 or 2 batteries have been placed ?
>In the past I have seen only one FS II & the battery was just foward of the
>engine location & at the same general elevation. For my FS II I was thinking
>of using two smaller 6 volt batteries in series. Any ideas for the best
>weight & balance ? What are the locations you have used ?
>
> See Ya
> Charles
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com> |
Subject: | Exhaust System Coatings / High Temperature |
There are at least two high quality, reputable coaters
which provide VERY durable high temp finishes for
exhaust systems. The previously mentioned Jet-Hot
coating is a very sharp looking finish that resembles
chrome but is actually a ceramic base that is baked
on. Jet-Hot offers a limited color selection of black
and chrome-like.
Another equally good outfit is High Performance
Coatings. This, again, is an outfit which caters
heavily to the racing and show vehicle community.
The coating materials are equally durable with a
couple of advantages over Jet-Hot. This advantage
is color selection. If you want to more closely color
coordinate your exhaust system to the rest of the
planes paint scheme they have a broader color
selection. Their chrome-like finish also has a
brighter luster as opposed to Jet-Hot's more
"brushed" chrome look.
I first learned of these coatings when I saw the St.
Louis County Police chopper on display at an airshow
with the engine on display. All of the exhaust ducting
looked freshly painted with a chrome-like finish and
no signs of heat discoloration at all. I was totally
floored when I found out that the finish had already
been in service hundreds of hours at turbine
temperatures. Made a believer out of me!
I have done a bunch of exhaust systems with both
coaters and highly recommend them both.
Jet-Hot Coatings
55 E. Front St.
Bridgeport PA 19405
800-432-3379
High Performance Coatings
3615 So. 550 West
Murray UT 84115
800-456-4721
Happy Flying!
KZ
(MK3 builder)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Exhaust System Coatings / High Temperature |
Some excellent additional information there. I think the important thing not
to lose sight of is that in a two stroke engine a crack in the muffler has
serious effects on engine performance and opperating temperature. You want a
good coating, from whoever, so that if you have a crack or a leak it will
show up a dark spot or stain on the assembly and you will pick it up on the
preflight.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | Another Exhaust Coating Option |
I haven't "cured" my coating, which I purchased from Techline
(http://dm.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html).
This Black Satin stuff is very expensive at $5/ounce, but I coated both
my 912 mufflers with just two ounces.
So, at $20 for the 4 oz bottle, it seems like one of the cheaper
solutions.
It doesn't need to be baked on, you just run the engine after coating.
You DO need to sandblast the mufflers, and you need a touch-up gun.
BTW (to save posting space), I've had good experience with Grand Rapids
Technologies.
I haven't posted anything in a while, but newcomers can see pictures of
my Mark III on
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/index.htm
and
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
> My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success.
Chalk up another victim to the legal system :-( After hearing this
testimonial, I picked up the phone and called Jet Hot. I was told that
a couple years ago, the lawyers and insurance people got together and
said they can't touch any more aircraft parts. I asked "What if I don't
say what it's for". He said they would refuse to do it if they
recognized the parts, unless you give them something in writing that
says it isn't for aircraft use. Rats!
Thanks anyway. It still might be a possibility.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | Re: FW: Re: Jet hot |
Send them a letter stating that it is not for aircraft use, you get your
muffler and they have something to put in their file to make the lawyers
happy. This is not a uncommon thing to run across.
>----------
>From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 9:06 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com; Cavuontop(at)aol.com
>Subject: Re: Jet hot
>
>Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>> My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success.
>
>
>Chalk up another victim to the legal system :-( After hearing this
>testimonial, I picked up the phone and called Jet Hot. I was told that
>a couple years ago, the lawyers and insurance people got together and
>said they can't touch any more aircraft parts. I asked "What if I don't
>say what it's for". He said they would refuse to do it if they
>recognized the parts, unless you give them something in writing that
>says it isn't for aircraft use. Rats!
>
>Thanks anyway. It still might be a possibility.
>--
>Russell Duffy
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
>
> In response to your recent queston about jet hot coatings:
>
> My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success. The
> guy I sold my plane to has put 70 hours on it. The coating, which looks
> like
> low polished aluminum looks perfect. No darkening, no flaking. The
entire
> three piece muffler cost $110.00 to do. It took a week and they give you
a
> guarentee. call them at 800 432-3379. Get their literature. They make
> most of their money coating trick exhoust systems for race cars. I really
> can't say enough good things about them, their product looks great and it
> works.
>
Hmmmm.....I called them today and when I told them I was interested in having
a UL muffler treated I was told "No way!". Their insurance carrier says no UL
customers. However, I asked if I called back for the treatment for my
"airboat" there would be no problem. So, I was told that the three pieces for
my Rotax 447 would cost about $200, there would be about a 3-day turnaround,
and they have a 3 year warrantee
on the resultant coating.
IMHO, $200 will buy a lot of sandblasting and black heat-resistant paint. Of
course, that routine lasts me only abot 6 months or so (25 hrs.), but I make
that part of my usual 25-hr. inspection, etc.
Charlie Kirtland
ulflyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
Subject: | RE: ASI and static hookup |
>It would be cool if, next time you go flying, note your altimeter prior to
>takeoff. Then keep noting it on your takeoff roll and after liftoff,
>staying just off the ground as long as you can. See if the altitude varies,
>indicating fluctuations in the cockpit pressure due to airflow effects. It
>would be a useful piece of information.
>***********************************
>Mike Yukish
Good idea. I tried it a couple of times this past weekend and can report
that there is absolutely NO variation in indicated altitude with airspeed
change.
I'm sure that there is a change in the static pressure with airspeed, it's just
that the range of speeds is so small that it just doesn't seem to affect the
altimeter.
-Steve
PS - Right now we've got perfect winter flying conditions. All the ice around
here is at least 8 inches thick, and there's virtually no snow cover. I've
been landing on all the lakes and ponds in the area, having a blast. New
England flying isn't ALL bad...
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Kolb Ultralights |
Hi,
My name is Jacob Dinsmore and I am from Bakersfield Ca. Ever since I was a
kid I have always had a fascination for Ultralights. This summer I'm hoping
to get some flying lessons. I am 15 and this summer I want to save up for one
of Kolb's Firefly kits. They look Awsome! The Firefly looks hot just sitting
still, and I'm going to work my butt off to get one!
Thanks,
Jacob Dinsmore
P.S. To all the people that work at Kolb- Your Ultralights are Rule!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jlbaker(at)telepath.com (Jim Baker) |
$110.00 to do. It took a week and they give you a
>guarentee.
How about High Performance Coatings.....$50 and a guarantee.
West Coast
Salt Lake City 801-262-6807
Central
Oklahoma City 405-789-2888
East Coast
Manchester CT 203-647-9963
They have some other neat processes that may warrant your attention (how
about ceramic coated piston tops?).
Jim Baker
Elmore City Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Here is the story on the $200.00 quote. When I first called Jet Hot
up to coat my muffler they threw me a number like that over the phone. A
rotax muffler is hard to describe and they didn't want to commit over the
phone to a price they might later regret. So we took it to the factory, when
they actually took a look at it they did the muffler can, the elbow, and the
Y for around $110.00.
A couple of my buddies have called them up and got the same story, so
I gave them my Jet-Hot invoice number, and they said it was the same parts as
mine and they got the same price. I will dig in my file for the invoice
number and try to post it here. If I can't find it, you can tell them to
look in their database for an invoice for Mark Sellers. I had two complete
three piece roatx mufflers done, plus the kolb-made brakets that hold the 582
muffer assembly on a Mark three, plus the clamp straps that go around the
muffler. It all looks great.
You are right that you can buy alot of grill paint for that money.
But I have had the experience of standing in the parking lot of my local EAA
barn with the sandblaster on a perfect saturday morning working on my muffler
while my buddies went by overhead. In 135 hours on my Mark 2 I had to blast
and repaint the muffler three times. I'd rather be flying. Plus this
coating looks very good.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
Subject: | Re: RE: Re: Jet hot |
kolb(at)intrig.com (internet!intrig.com!kolb),
rad(at)pen.net (Russell Duffy)
It's for a snowmobile engine
----------
From: Russell Duffy
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Jet hot
Date: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 11:06PM
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
> My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success.
Chalk up another victim to the legal system :-( After hearing this
testimonial, I picked up the phone and called Jet Hot. I was told that
a couple years ago, the lawyers and insurance people got together and
said they can't touch any more aircraft parts. I asked "What if I don't
say what it's for". He said they would refuse to do it if they
recognized the parts, unless you give them something in writing that
says it isn't for aircraft use. Rats!
Thanks anyway. It still might be a possibility.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tec94209(at)mech.port.ac.uk |
Please could you send me data on ergonomics used with microlites, e.g seating positions,
control positions, and setting up and packing away.
Also can you send me info. on standard instruments and control instruments.
I would be very happy if you could help me with this task.
Thank you.
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | " Brad Blackburn" <cave(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | KOLB exhaust coatings |
A fellow UL pilot uses "cold galvanize" that comes in a spray can and is
made by LPS. It gives the muffler a gray color. I started using it because
it holds up a lot better than header paint even though the can says it's
rated to 750f. It's also cheap. You do need to sandblast before applying.
Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | Empty weight of a MKIII |
Could one of you folks out there running a rotax 912 let me know the
empty weight of your airplane? Please include weather you have a
parachute and how much instrumentation, or any other unusual heavy
items.
Thanks Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com> |
Has anybody seen a good approach to dual controls on the Mark III
Thanks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Empty weight of a MKIII |
Last time I looked the factory was running a 912. Why not give Dennis a
call.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Dual Controls |
I think a better question is why? I thought long and hard about dual
controls, both throttle and stick. And after thinking about it I just
decided not to change a thing. Keep in mind that these planes are hard
enough to get in and out of. With dual controls you would have to swing your
inboard leg over the stick and 2 times out of 10 you would probably catch
your pants on the throttle if you had it mounted on the edge of the frame.
When I sold my Mark 2 the guy who bought it was an instructor who
planned to use it exclusively for teaching. His one big problem with the
plane was the center stick and throttle. After a few hours he told me he
wouldn't switch to dual controls now if he could get it for free. Why not
live with the plane as designed for a while before you bite off a big design
change?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | more jet hot testomonial |
I recently had my exhaust done at Jet Hot, I never told them it was for an
aircraft but just said it was for a Rotax exhaust. It looks great and they
were quick and a pleasure to deal with. Why offer them any more information
then needed.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net> |
I AM SEEKING INFORMATION ABOUT THE USE OF OIL INJECTION ON THE ROTAX 503.I
HAVE A FIRESTAR II.THE BRS IS MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE WING IN FRONT OF THE
ENGINE.DOES ANYBODY HAVE THE KOLB OIL TANK AND BRACKET AND WHERE DOES IT MOUNT.
THANKS
BENNY WHITEHEAD
FIRESTAR II
N226JB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tommie Templeton <tommie(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Cold Galvanizing by LPS |
Just my 2cents worth. I have been using this stuff for years and never
had any bad results from it.
Always sand blast your parts. Shake thoroughly then some to make sure
all the particles are mixed. Spray on and let dry.
Never found anything to compare with it in 25 years.
Tommie Templeton
tommie(at)apex.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Cullen <chuck(at)kronites.kronos.com> |
Subject: | re: Dual Controls |
> Has anybody seen a good approach to dual controls on the Mark III
We replaced the stick on our Mark III with a simple Y shaped stick
so that each pilot has grip somewhat in front of them.
It's not ideal but I am told I will get used to it (I have not flown
our Mark III yet).
I think John Haulk (sp?) had a better solution.
I'm talking about the Mark III that was flown around the perimeter
of the U.S. I have only seen pictures of that Mark III in
magzines but it looked like a "true" dual control arrangment.
I would think Kolb has the details.
chuck(at)kronos.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strange Kolb Model |
My thanks to all that responded to help me identify an early Kolb design.
With that help I have found out it is a Kolb Flyer and is equipped with
twin Solo 21 engines. If my friend does decide to purchase it, I will
look forward to giving it a detailed exam.
Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other
type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date
supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what
about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be
shipped over several years? Thanks.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Strange Kolb Model |
> Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other
> type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date
> supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what
> about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be
> shipped over several years? Thanks.
For an airplane it seems it would be the date of issue for the
airworthiness certificate. For a vehicle, i dunno ...should we ask
the DMV? Boy, wonder where that kind of question would get you! :)
I'd use date of 1st flight, but of course i see no reason not to include
info such as date of kit purchase and completion. BTW, when did Kolb
offer the Flyer as a kit, or was it just offered as plans?
'79-81?
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Here's another place that does a coating process which seems to hold up. I am
not sure which process they use but it sand blast, coat, bake type application
which seems to hold up.
Tri-Star Performance Coatings
418 Jesse
Grand Prairie TX
214-641-3801 (May be a 972 area code instead of 214)
A friend had his done there, it been run a couple years and still looks good.
I
think his cost was around $85.00 at that time. Don't mention airplane, the cost
goes up. Use dune buggy, air boat or some thing like that.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Muffler Coatings |
Hi,
We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but
do they actually perform a practical function other than making your
exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do
mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard
of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening,
though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest
problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out,
it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the
coating will help much. Am I missing the point?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Seat for Fire Star I |
Does any body have a good seat for Firestar I? I have trouble with the back
of mine bending.
Mike Alexander
Upstate NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Let there be SlingShot |
Greetings,
Well, it's finally here. I haven't unpacked anything yet, but I can
already see that the powdercoating is beautiful. It seems smaller than
I remembered it though. Dennis had warned me that the landing gear legs
would be shipping later, but otherwise, I think it's all hear. I'll
spend the afternoon unpacking all the boxes.
I did finally get my EIS after bugging Grand Rapids a few times. They
even included the remote switch option for free. I have about another
month to wait on the BRS, but everything else is here except for paint
and misc things that I don't know I need yet. I swapped the IVO
standard hub, for the quick adjust too. One humorous side note: I
already have my ELT sitting in it's box on the floor. As you know,
these things are made to survive plane crashes. With that in mind, I
couldn't help but laugh when I noticed the writing on the box that says
"Fragile. Do not drop". Boy, the UPS guys must be rough :-)
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
HI
My friend and I plan to install C.B. radios on our Kolb Ultralights. I have
a Mark111 and my friend has a Firestar. I have a 582 with electronic
ignition and the Firestar has a 447 with point ignition.
Please advise us on where to install the antennas and if special ignition
shielding is required.
Thanks
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | met in north Dallas |
Sorry I do not remember your name, but I flew in to the field where you were
taxi testing your Firestar on Sunday morning in a J# Cub, and your student s
build your plane. I am from Shreveport, remember, and have a Firestar also,
drop me a note, I want to ask you some questions about some of the things I
really liked about your plane.
Timandjan
Tim Loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: Muffler Coatings |
Its one of those personal things. But when you have $10K in your
plane, what another $100 or so to keep it looking nice. It seems
people go out of there way to may it look nice but to stop short here
seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use
the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick
up cans than be standing at the airport watching others fly while wire
brushing rust of the muffler. Besides if you do it first before it
run rather than after the fact it will probably be a better job.
OK, time for a new subject.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Muffler Coatings
Date: 2/13/97 9:03 PM
Hi,
We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but
do they actually perform a practical function other than making your
exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do
mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard
of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening,
though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest
problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out,
it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the
coating will help much. Am I missing the point?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: Muffler Coatings |
Its one of those personal things. But when you have $10K in your
plane, what another $100 or so to keep it looking nice. It seems
people go out of there way to may it look nice but to stop short here
seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use
the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick
up cans than be standing at the airport watching others fly while wire
brushing rust of the muffler. Besides if you do it first before it
run rather than after the fact it will probably be a better job.
OK, time for a new subject.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Muffler Coatings
Date: 2/13/97 9:03 PM
Hi,
We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but
do they actually perform a practical function other than making your
exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do
mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard
of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening,
though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest
problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out,
it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the
coating will help much. Am I missing the point?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: Muffler Coatings |
Its one of those personal things. But when you have $10K in your
plane, what another $100 or so to keep it looking nice. It seems
people go out of there way to may it look nice but to stop short here
seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use
the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick
up cans than be standing at the airport watching others fly while wire
brushing rust of the muffler. Besides if you do it first before it
run rather than after the fact it will probably be a better job.
OK, time for a new subject.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Muffler Coatings
Date: 2/13/97 9:03 PM
Hi,
We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but
do they actually perform a practical function other than making your
exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do
mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard
of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening,
though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest
problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out,
it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the
coating will help much. Am I missing the point?
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strange Kolb Model |
My thanks to all that responded to help me identify an early Kolb design.
With that help I have found out it is a Kolb Flyer and is equipped with
twin Solo 21 engines. If my friend does decide to purchase it, I will
look forward to giving it a detailed exam.
Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other
type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date
supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what
about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be
shipped over several years? Thanks.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strange Kolb Model |
My thanks to all that responded to help me identify an early Kolb design.
With that help I have found out it is a Kolb Flyer and is equipped with
twin Solo 21 engines. If my friend does decide to purchase it, I will
look forward to giving it a detailed exam.
Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other
type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date
supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what
about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be
shipped over several years? Thanks.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Muffler Coatings |
In my view the reason for a good muffler coating is to reveal cracks
before they become catastrophic.
The one forced landing I had in 135 hours in the mark 2 was because the
circular weld where the manifold comes around and connects to the muffler can
let go in flight. Lost power and had to put it down in a cow pasture in
Stockton, NJ. Anyway, the key point to get here is that a failure like that
does not happen instantly. Undoubtedly it started as a hairline crack on a
portion of the weld and got worse with heating and cooling. Add some
vibration to the mix and the remaining metal work hardens and then bang the
whole thing broke. I have to take responsibility for not doing a better
preflight, but after that I started taking a 4'" magnafying glass with me to
the airport and decided that having a light colored coating that will show
black exhaust gas smudges can really make a difference. Remember, a two
stroke will run but will not produce power without a muffler.
As for your question about failure modes . . . . . I had cracks on
welds and off welds. Also keep in mind that the Mark 2 used the old style 2
piece muffler. I understand that the 3 piece which is used now has solved
most of the cracking problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Muffler Coatings |
In my view the reason for a good muffler coating is to reveal cracks
before they become catastrophic.
The one forced landing I had in 135 hours in the mark 2 was because the
circular weld where the manifold comes around and connects to the muffler can
let go in flight. Lost power and had to put it down in a cow pasture in
Stockton, NJ. Anyway, the key point to get here is that a failure like that
does not happen instantly. Undoubtedly it started as a hairline crack on a
portion of the weld and got worse with heating and cooling. Add some
vibration to the mix and the remaining metal work hardens and then bang the
whole thing broke. I have to take responsibility for not doing a better
preflight, but after that I started taking a 4'" magnafying glass with me to
the airport and decided that having a light colored coating that will show
black exhaust gas smudges can really make a difference. Remember, a two
stroke will run but will not produce power without a muffler.
As for your question about failure modes . . . . . I had cracks on
welds and off welds. Also keep in mind that the Mark 2 used the old style 2
piece muffler. I understand that the 3 piece which is used now has solved
most of the cracking problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All...
I still haven't flown yet, but here is what has been happening. I found a
very good instructor up in Oklahoma, Fred Kimmel, BFI I believe. He has a
MKII as well as a Titan (he is a dealer). I received about 3.5 hours from
Fred on two trips up there and I think it was well worth the trouble and
expense to get some first hand experience in a Kolb before first flight in
my own. I think the Kolb flies quite a bit differently than the J3 Cub.
Fred first gave me some air work away from the airport... getting me used
to the engine, airspeeds, controls and all forms of stalls, attitudes,
climbs, approaches, and emergency landings. By then I was really getting
"air sick". We then came back to the airport and did pattern work for
another hour. As he said, we stuffed 5 or 6 hours into 2. After a rest, we
did another hour of pattern work. He started out with taxiing awhile,
making runway flights, then fly byes getting lower and lower until we were
doing multiple landings on the 4000 fairly rolling grass strip. I
definitely tended to over control and was not as quick to anticipate things
I should have. I went back for another 1.5 hours about 10 days later and
things went very well. For part of the time we went over to a paved strip
nearby.
The wind and weather since I have gotten back has been really poor. I went
out yesterday and today and taxied some. It is no where near the calmness I
want for a first flight and the forcast for the rest of the week is worse.
Today, I left the runway for very short distances (half to 1 second or so)
at an indicated of 40 to 42 mph.
The cheap brakes get really hot during taxi tests and they clank, clank,
clank. I have them just about balanced (L & R) and have loosened up the
cables (trying to keep them cooler) to the point where they are not very
effective. I guess they have to burn enough off the shoes to conform to the
drum.
I repitched the IVO to a coarser pitch. I guess my engine (5 hours now) has
loosened up some. I wanted to bring the static down to about 6200 and it
took about a full turn to do it. I made so many small adjustments, I can't
be sure.
I tightened up the emphenage cables more to the point I think seems right.
I put 14 lbs. of 2 lb. divers weights in the nose along with an 8 lb.
battery (all at a 50" arm). That puts my CG right about 22.2".
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All...
I still haven't flown yet, but here is what has been happening. I found a
very good instructor up in Oklahoma, Fred Kimmel, BFI I believe. He has a
MKII as well as a Titan (he is a dealer). I received about 3.5 hours from
Fred on two trips up there and I think it was well worth the trouble and
expense to get some first hand experience in a Kolb before first flight in
my own. I think the Kolb flies quite a bit differently than the J3 Cub.
Fred first gave me some air work away from the airport... getting me used
to the engine, airspeeds, controls and all forms of stalls, attitudes,
climbs, approaches, and emergency landings. By then I was really getting
"air sick". We then came back to the airport and did pattern work for
another hour. As he said, we stuffed 5 or 6 hours into 2. After a rest, we
did another hour of pattern work. He started out with taxiing awhile,
making runway flights, then fly byes getting lower and lower until we were
doing multiple landings on the 4000 fairly rolling grass strip. I
definitely tended to over control and was not as quick to anticipate things
I should have. I went back for another 1.5 hours about 10 days later and
things went very well. For part of the time we went over to a paved strip
nearby.
The wind and weather since I have gotten back has been really poor. I went
out yesterday and today and taxied some. It is no where near the calmness I
want for a first flight and the forcast for the rest of the week is worse.
Today, I left the runway for very short distances (half to 1 second or so)
at an indicated of 40 to 42 mph.
The cheap brakes get really hot during taxi tests and they clank, clank,
clank. I have them just about balanced (L & R) and have loosened up the
cables (trying to keep them cooler) to the point where they are not very
effective. I guess they have to burn enough off the shoes to conform to the
drum.
I repitched the IVO to a coarser pitch. I guess my engine (5 hours now) has
loosened up some. I wanted to bring the static down to about 6200 and it
took about a full turn to do it. I made so many small adjustments, I can't
be sure.
I tightened up the emphenage cables more to the point I think seems right.
I put 14 lbs. of 2 lb. divers weights in the nose along with an 8 lb.
battery (all at a 50" arm). That puts my CG right about 22.2".
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CVBreard(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Firestar harness |
My single seat Firestar has a single lap belt.
I'd like to install a more sophisticated system 3- or 4 point attach seat
and shoulder harness.
Do you offer one or can you suggest a supplier or two?
CVBreard(at)aol.com
Baton Rouge LA 504-924-6411
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CVBreard(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Firestar harness |
My single seat Firestar has a single lap belt.
I'd like to install a more sophisticated system 3- or 4 point attach seat
and shoulder harness.
Do you offer one or can you suggest a supplier or two?
CVBreard(at)aol.com
Baton Rouge LA 504-924-6411
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Christina Reynen <reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
The 582 three piece sidemount muffler attached to my M-III with the CPS
kit and with one additional rubber suspension added to the front clamp
developed a ringing sound @ 5500 RPM and a 3"crack was found @ the weld
where the elbow enters the can.
After welding the crack (at 300 hrs TT and a complete engine teardown
and overhaul) the noise disappeared for aprox 50hrs and during the last
flight I made,the sound was back again.
If I increase or decrease the RPM, the ringing stops.
This time I see no telltale sign of cracking or exhaust traces yet and I
want to know if the sound I hear is actually produced by a cracked
muffler.
Frank Reynen.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Christina Reynen <reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
The 582 three piece sidemount muffler attached to my M-III with the CPS
kit and with one additional rubber suspension added to the front clamp
developed a ringing sound @ 5500 RPM and a 3"crack was found @ the weld
where the elbow enters the can.
After welding the crack (at 300 hrs TT and a complete engine teardown
and overhaul) the noise disappeared for aprox 50hrs and during the last
flight I made,the sound was back again.
If I increase or decrease the RPM, the ringing stops.
This time I see no telltale sign of cracking or exhaust traces yet and I
want to know if the sound I hear is actually produced by a cracked
muffler.
Frank Reynen.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com> |
Subject: | C.B. Radios -Reply |
Stongly recommend using a center load CB antenna
(Lil' Hustler) mounted about 1 to 2 feet forward of
the vertical stab on the boom. Rivet a small
saddle-like bracket on top of the boom, passing the
coax inside the boom. Secure coax inside boom with
a dab of silicone RTV about every 1-1/2 to 2 feet
intervals. This is not difficult, just delicate work.
Use the top of the line Radio Shack hand held CB as
your radio.
You would not believe the range it is capable of. On
long x-countries I have been able to converse with
base stations about 60 miles away. That was not a
misprint...60 miles. This was at an altitude of 2002
ft...2000 ft AGL plus the 2 ft antenna. A gound crew
with a good radio setup in the chase vehicle could
hear you about 30 to 40 miles out, however, they will
not be able to transmit that far.
Good luck!
KZ
MK3 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Neill Clayton-Smith <ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net> |
Subject: | Multiple messages |
Hi All,
I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else getting
this or is it my mail server?
L8R
Neill.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com> |
Subject: | C.B. Radios -Reply |
Stongly recommend using a center load CB antenna
(Lil' Hustler) mounted about 1 to 2 feet forward of
the vertical stab on the boom. Rivet a small
saddle-like bracket on top of the boom, passing the
coax inside the boom. Secure coax inside boom with
a dab of silicone RTV about every 1-1/2 to 2 feet
intervals. This is not difficult, just delicate work.
Use the top of the line Radio Shack hand held CB as
your radio.
You would not believe the range it is capable of. On
long x-countries I have been able to converse with
base stations about 60 miles away. That was not a
misprint...60 miles. This was at an altitude of 2002
ft...2000 ft AGL plus the 2 ft antenna. A gound crew
with a good radio setup in the chase vehicle could
hear you about 30 to 40 miles out, however, they will
not be able to transmit that far.
Good luck!
KZ
MK3 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Neill Clayton-Smith <ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net> |
Subject: | Multiple messages |
Hi All,
I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else getting
this or is it my mail server?
L8R
Neill.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
I'd like to hear about trim problems and solutions.
I'm flying a Firestar II completed in November. Out of the box, I had to
hold back pressure on the stick, increasing with speed. I trimmed that
out by reflexing the flaps (my own addition) and ailerons and dropping
the leading edge of the HS stabilizer by about 3/4" (the maximum I
could). (Unfortunately that interfered with the wing stow tube - but
that's another story). It flys with no back pressure required over a
very large speed range - nice.
It also had a tendency to roll and turn to the left increasing with
power. I attribute that to the spiraling propeller blast on the right
side of the rudder. I partially trimmed the roll out with differential
in the flaps. I've also tried a rudder trim tab and it did the trick
except for the necessity of a lot of left rudder on take-off. I may have
had the trim tab too high on the rudder. I'm also thinking of pitching
the thrust line down slightly to get the blast higher on the vertical
tail.
I aligned the wings and fuselage as meticulously as I knew how when I
built it and there is no apparent twist in the wings or else where
(verified by others). Another Kolb Firestar I here (earlier model with
full span ailerons) seems to have similar problems with a heavy left
wing. He's using a trim tab on the left aileron.
Thanks,
Hank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
I'd like to hear about trim problems and solutions.
I'm flying a Firestar II completed in November. Out of the box, I had to
hold back pressure on the stick, increasing with speed. I trimmed that
out by reflexing the flaps (my own addition) and ailerons and dropping
the leading edge of the HS stabilizer by about 3/4" (the maximum I
could). (Unfortunately that interfered with the wing stow tube - but
that's another story). It flys with no back pressure required over a
very large speed range - nice.
It also had a tendency to roll and turn to the left increasing with
power. I attribute that to the spiraling propeller blast on the right
side of the rudder. I partially trimmed the roll out with differential
in the flaps. I've also tried a rudder trim tab and it did the trick
except for the necessity of a lot of left rudder on take-off. I may have
had the trim tab too high on the rudder. I'm also thinking of pitching
the thrust line down slightly to get the blast higher on the vertical
tail.
I aligned the wings and fuselage as meticulously as I knew how when I
built it and there is no apparent twist in the wings or else where
(verified by others). Another Kolb Firestar I here (earlier model with
full span ailerons) seems to have similar problems with a heavy left
wing. He's using a trim tab on the left aileron.
Thanks,
Hank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
Subject: | RE: Multiple messages |
ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net (Neill Clayton-Smith)
I am also getting two postings
Mark Hansen
----------
From: Neill Clayton-Smith
Subject: Kolb-List: Multiple messages
Date: Tuesday, February 18, 1997 00:05PM
Hi All,
I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else
getting this or is it my mail server?
L8R
Neill.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
Subject: | RE: Multiple messages |
ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net (Neill Clayton-Smith)
I am also getting two postings
Mark Hansen
----------
From: Neill Clayton-Smith
Subject: Kolb-List: Multiple messages
Date: Tuesday, February 18, 1997 00:05PM
Hi All,
I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else
getting this or is it my mail server?
L8R
Neill.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
Subject: | Duplicate messages |
Yes, you are correct. Yesterday we changed our internet network's
IP configuration to comply with a RFC (Request-For-Comment, the
docs that govern Internet stuff).
The doubling problem appeared at the same time and appears limited
to the kolb list; my other lists are OK.
I am working on the problem but for now unfortunatly you'll be
getting double postings until I figure out what changed...
Jeff
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com> |
Subject: | Duplicate messages |
Yes, you are correct. Yesterday we changed our internet network's
IP configuration to comply with a RFC (Request-For-Comment, the
docs that govern Internet stuff).
The doubling problem appeared at the same time and appears limited
to the kolb list; my other lists are OK.
I am working on the problem but for now unfortunatly you'll be
getting double postings until I figure out what changed...
Jeff
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | patricio(at)pananet.com (Patricio Janson) |
Neill Clayton-Smith
Subject: | Re: Multiple messages |
I am also getting two postings.
Patricio Janson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | patricio(at)pananet.com (Patricio Janson) |
Neill Clayton-Smith
Subject: | Re: Multiple messages |
I am also getting two postings.
Patricio Janson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | More Pictures, Progress on my Mark III |
I've now (I think) fixed problems with my web site
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/. You can now browse this without
waiting a long period for all the pictures to download, and it will work
with AOL's browser. I've added a few pictures from last week.
The idea of mounting the switches in the gap seal seems to be working
very well. On problem is that the ignition key MUST be removed before
installing or removing the gap seal - I forgot this already and broke
the key off in the cylinder. I believe that Dick Kuntzleman intends to
do a "hot box" type product with switches that can be installed easily
in the gap seal.
I'll post additional pictures when I get my Olympus D-300L back later
this week (I've loaned it out.)
The plane should be ready to fly as soon as I rig the flaps and
ailerons, install a pitot tube, paint "N628SB" on the side, and get it
inspected...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | More Pictures, Progress on my Mark III |
I've now (I think) fixed problems with my web site
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/. You can now browse this without
waiting a long period for all the pictures to download, and it will work
with AOL's browser. I've added a few pictures from last week.
The idea of mounting the switches in the gap seal seems to be working
very well. On problem is that the ignition key MUST be removed before
installing or removing the gap seal - I forgot this already and broke
the key off in the cylinder. I believe that Dick Kuntzleman intends to
do a "hot box" type product with switches that can be installed easily
in the gap seal.
I'll post additional pictures when I get my Olympus D-300L back later
this week (I've loaned it out.)
The plane should be ready to fly as soon as I rig the flaps and
ailerons, install a pitot tube, paint "N628SB" on the side, and get it
inspected...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Muffler Coatings (sorry, there's more) |
On 14 Feb 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use
> the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick
...just can't help it.
i'd *much* rather tinker w/ my airplane than collect cans. :-)
It is reasonable to pull the muffler every 50 hours to be able to verify
that the piston rings are free, take a partial peek for cylinder or
piston scuffing and carbon load on the crowns, as well as to re-apply
anti-sieze goo on the muffler fittings). (I think 50 hours is the Rotax
recommended interval for the above checks.) This is an easy time
to touch spray the muffler, if needed.
For me, i'll paint the can once in awhile, and also check the thing
carefully for cracks. I'd also wonder if a light colored coating on
the muffler reduces cooling enf to be a slight disadvantage ...maybe not.
And, what happens to the coating if you need to weld a crack closed?
Another $100?
my $.02, ...or 2 cans
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Muffler Coatings (sorry, there's more) |
On 14 Feb 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use
> the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick
...just can't help it.
i'd *much* rather tinker w/ my airplane than collect cans. :-)
It is reasonable to pull the muffler every 50 hours to be able to verify
that the piston rings are free, take a partial peek for cylinder or
piston scuffing and carbon load on the crowns, as well as to re-apply
anti-sieze goo on the muffler fittings). (I think 50 hours is the Rotax
recommended interval for the above checks.) This is an easy time
to touch spray the muffler, if needed.
For me, i'll paint the can once in awhile, and also check the thing
carefully for cracks. I'd also wonder if a light colored coating on
the muffler reduces cooling enf to be a slight disadvantage ...maybe not.
And, what happens to the coating if you need to weld a crack closed?
Another $100?
my $.02, ...or 2 cans
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RIVARD" <RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US> |
I HAVE A 1990 MK2 WITH 89hrs.TT ON ENG AND AIRFRAME.ROTEX 503 WITH
CARB HEAT,PROP&CRANK BALANCER.WINGS AND TAIL FACTORY BUILT{QUICK BUILD
KIT}.BRS RECOVERY,SPORTY RADIO.AMPLIFIER,HELMETS WITH INTERCOM.CAGE,FLT.
CONTROLS,INSTRUMENTS ETC.
THIS IS A COMPLETE MK2 THAT WILL BE SOLD FOR UNAIRWORTHY PARTS ONLY.
NOW BEFORE YOU GET ON MY CASE,I DON'T WANT TO DISASSEMBLE THIS PLANE,
I REALLY ENJOYED FLYING IT.I LOST MY MEDICAL.
IF THERE ARE ENOUGH PEOPLE WHO CAN USE THESE PARTS I WILL DISASSEMBLE
THIS PLANE.I'D LIKE TO SEE IT PUT TO GOOD USE.
DETROIT/PORT HURON MI.AREA
ROBERT RIVARD
RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RIVARD" <RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US> |
I HAVE A 1990 MK2 WITH 89hrs.TT ON ENG AND AIRFRAME.ROTEX 503 WITH
CARB HEAT,PROP&CRANK BALANCER.WINGS AND TAIL FACTORY BUILT{QUICK BUILD
KIT}.BRS RECOVERY,SPORTY RADIO.AMPLIFIER,HELMETS WITH INTERCOM.CAGE,FLT.
CONTROLS,INSTRUMENTS ETC.
THIS IS A COMPLETE MK2 THAT WILL BE SOLD FOR UNAIRWORTHY PARTS ONLY.
NOW BEFORE YOU GET ON MY CASE,I DON'T WANT TO DISASSEMBLE THIS PLANE,
I REALLY ENJOYED FLYING IT.I LOST MY MEDICAL.
IF THERE ARE ENOUGH PEOPLE WHO CAN USE THESE PARTS I WILL DISASSEMBLE
THIS PLANE.I'D LIKE TO SEE IT PUT TO GOOD USE.
DETROIT/PORT HURON MI.AREA
ROBERT RIVARD
RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings all,
Greetings all, (just kidding Jeff )
Well I'm all dressed up with no place to go. The last kit and engine
for the SS arrived last Friday, but there's no plans or manual yet.
Dennis said they were at the printers now and I'll see them in about a
week. In the mean time, I'll just obsess over other details.
My most recent quandary involves the rear seat of the SS. The more I
look at the cage, the more I think I won't really get much use out of
it. What I'm thinking of doing instead, is putting a 12 gallon fuel
tank where the 2nd seat would be, and using the old fuel area for misc
storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT
even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front
of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the
roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the
drag savings would be nice. This will all help the CG situation enough
that I might even splurge for the electric starter. Even with the
smaller 503 engine, I should be able to pitch the prop for cruise and
still get great climb at the single place. The best part about this
plan, is that my wife won't have to feel like she should ride in the
plane. She doesn't like flying much and gets quite airsick. I wasn't
really looking forward to having her barf on the back of my head :-)
I have to decide soon, because I need to start the FAA paperwork. One
of the things they want to know now is how many seats there are. I'd be
interested in hearing any opinions for or against deleting the jumpseat.
To anyone who's interested, I posted another roll of pictures this
morning. They're up-to-date showing the tail and ailerons covered, and
also pictures of the final kit contents and some shots of the SS cage. I
wish Scott would loan me his digital camera. Man, his photos are nice!
In general SS news, Dennis told me they plan to have the 912 on a SS by
SNF! I can't wait to read the reviews on that.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings all,
Greetings all, (just kidding Jeff )
Well I'm all dressed up with no place to go. The last kit and engine
for the SS arrived last Friday, but there's no plans or manual yet.
Dennis said they were at the printers now and I'll see them in about a
week. In the mean time, I'll just obsess over other details.
My most recent quandary involves the rear seat of the SS. The more I
look at the cage, the more I think I won't really get much use out of
it. What I'm thinking of doing instead, is putting a 12 gallon fuel
tank where the 2nd seat would be, and using the old fuel area for misc
storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT
even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front
of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the
roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the
drag savings would be nice. This will all help the CG situation enough
that I might even splurge for the electric starter. Even with the
smaller 503 engine, I should be able to pitch the prop for cruise and
still get great climb at the single place. The best part about this
plan, is that my wife won't have to feel like she should ride in the
plane. She doesn't like flying much and gets quite airsick. I wasn't
really looking forward to having her barf on the back of my head :-)
I have to decide soon, because I need to start the FAA paperwork. One
of the things they want to know now is how many seats there are. I'd be
interested in hearing any opinions for or against deleting the jumpseat.
To anyone who's interested, I posted another roll of pictures this
morning. They're up-to-date showing the tail and ailerons covered, and
also pictures of the final kit contents and some shots of the SS cage. I
wish Scott would loan me his digital camera. Man, his photos are nice!
In general SS news, Dennis told me they plan to have the 912 on a SS by
SNF! I can't wait to read the reviews on that.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com> |
Feb 18th.
Yes Neill, I've been receiving duplicate kolb messages since
Monday. Thanks for confirming the 'double vision'.
JohnJohnHansonHanson
pilotone(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com> |
Feb 18th.
Yes Neill, I've been receiving duplicate kolb messages since
Monday. Thanks for confirming the 'double vision'.
JohnJohnHansonHanson
pilotone(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com> |
Feb 18th.
Yes Neill, I've been receiving duplicate kolb messages since
Monday. Thanks for confirming the 'double vision'.
JohnJohnHansonHanson
pilotone(at)erols.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: 1 seat or 2 ? |
I vote for keeping the 2nd seat. I wish I could carry a passenger
on rare occassion, so would place high priority on this, even if it
were infrequent.
>storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT
Not sure I ever told you how i spent probably 1.5 months of prime building
time making a custom fiberglass fuel tank for my plane. Boy, that was
even more fun than the custom windscreen. It now sits proudly in the rafters
of my garage ...but it was fun to do! I don't really mean to rain on
your parade, just relating to my own interest to get the gas tank moved
to a different location, and make it into a very odd shape that is otherwise
just wasted. I could go on, but i'll spare you.
>even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front
>of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the
>roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the
I guess as a headrest the chute and rocket egress is beyond your head?
I'd hate to think of any possibility of the BRS chute saving your plane
and everything below your neckline. Even an accidental deployment would
be nasty if it put your head out there on the canopy somewhere.
-Ben Ransom
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: 1 seat or 2 ? |
I vote for keeping the 2nd seat. I wish I could carry a passenger
on rare occassion, so would place high priority on this, even if it
were infrequent.
>storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT
Not sure I ever told you how i spent probably 1.5 months of prime building
time making a custom fiberglass fuel tank for my plane. Boy, that was
even more fun than the custom windscreen. It now sits proudly in the rafters
of my garage ...but it was fun to do! I don't really mean to rain on
your parade, just relating to my own interest to get the gas tank moved
to a different location, and make it into a very odd shape that is otherwise
just wasted. I could go on, but i'll spare you.
>even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front
>of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the
>roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the
I guess as a headrest the chute and rocket egress is beyond your head?
I'd hate to think of any possibility of the BRS chute saving your plane
and everything below your neckline. Even an accidental deployment would
be nasty if it put your head out there on the canopy somewhere.
-Ben Ransom
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net> |
Does anybody have experience with the oil injection system for the Rotax 503?
Benny Whitehead
Firestar II
N226JB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi again,
Thanks to everyone that commented on my recent dilemma. I sent the FAA
registration request letter today and listed the SS as 2-place. In the
end, I just couldn't justify giving up the seat. Now I'll look into
finding a fuel tank that I like better for the normal location.
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | POWERFIN propeller, ever heard of it? |
Is anyone using a POWERFIN propeller, especially with the Rotax 582?
Does anybody KNOW of anyone using the Powerfin? Have you even heard
of it? I am considering it as a low-inertia alternative to Warp.
It is claimed to have a flexibility between Warp and Ivo, lower
mass than either, and superior aerodynamics (true Clark "Y" shape
instead of knife-edge).
Can anyone provide first-hand knowledge? Isn't this Internet a great tool?
Powerfin has a web page at www.supernal.net/~powerfin/
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: POWERFIN propeller, ever heard of it? |
I cannot help you with powerfin but there is another prop that I have
heard good things about (kind of spendy though), it is the sport prop
sold by sport copter. Their Web page is at
www.teleport.com/~zlinak/index.htm
>----------
>From: Jim Gerken
>GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM[SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Thursday, February 20, 1997 2:08 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: POWERFIN propeller, ever heard of it?
>
> Is anyone using a POWERFIN propeller, especially with the Rotax 582?
> Does anybody KNOW of anyone using the Powerfin? Have you even heard
> of it? I am considering it as a low-inertia alternative to Warp.
> It is claimed to have a flexibility between Warp and Ivo, lower
> mass than either, and superior aerodynamics (true Clark "Y" shape
> instead of knife-edge).
> Can anyone provide first-hand knowledge? Isn't this Internet a great tool?
>
> Powerfin has a web page at www.supernal.net/~powerfin/
>Thanks!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Daniel D. Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Angle of atttack |
A firestarII builder is rebuilding his aircraft and has reinstalled his
tail boom and leveled his wings. He took a reading of the tail boom
when his wings were level with the ground and found that it read 13
1/2. (has a digital level). Because he didn't keep notes when he first
built the aircraft he was wondering if this is right?
As mine is also in repair couldn't make a comparison.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ricardo vidales torres <rvidales(at)infosel.net.mx> |
ME GUSTARIA RECIBIR E. MAIL EN ESPA=D1OL DE ALGUIEN DE USTEDES
ACERCA DEL ULTRALIGERO MARK III O DE CUALQUIER COSA RELACIONADA
GRACIAS
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello
I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave
aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants .
Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Mud on wings |
The only solutions I can think of are some fenders, pieces of curved
metal over the wheels to keep the mud from slinging. Or put some
protective coating (wax or something) to make the wing easier to clean.
>----------
>From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com[SMTP:EnaudZ(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Friday, February 21, 1997 8:34 AM
>To: KOLB(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Mud on wings
>
>Hello
> I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave
> aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants .
> Duane
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Mud on wings |
On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:
> I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave
> aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants .
> Duane
Wear it (the mud) with pride.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | Advice on final finishing... |
I'm getting to the final stages and would like to hear experiences and
advice on a few things:
1) N number:
I've been assigned N628SB, and I can (I guess) either paint it with
stencils or get stick-on vinyl letters. If I use stencils, I'll have
cutouts showing for the insides of the 6,8, and B. If I use letters,
they won't match the color (exactly) of my accent paint. Any ideas or
advice? Any preferred vendors for stencils or letters?
2) Overspray
When I put the final coat on my wings, we had the second wing too close
to the first, and the overspray made the finish rough. Any ideas on how
to compound them or such?
I've ordered "Experimental" decals, passenger warning, and metal
identification plate from Skysports.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Advice on final finishing... |
On Fri, 21 Feb 1997, Scott Bentley wrote:
> 2) Overspray
>
> When I put the final coat on my wings, we had the second wing too close
> to the first, and the overspray made the finish rough. Any ideas on how
> to compound them or such?
this is a tough one. I tried to buff out a couple lousy areas on my
wings, and the best luck I had was using either 600 paper or steel wool,
then McGuire's #9. Lots of elbow grease required on the McGuires, and
avoid getting the sand paper near the rivet bumps. At the time I had
tried lots of things and can't remember them all now. I think the
steel wool worked even better than the 600 paper. Good luck w/ it.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net> |
Does anybody have experience with the oil injection system for the Rotax 503?
Benny Whitehead
Firestar II
N226JB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
Subject: | Re: Mud on wings |
On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:>
I need advice about keeping wings cleen, I have > aFirestar I I I
don't want wheel pants .
> Duane
What!! mud on a Kolb wing ? This is totally unacceptable!
If you do not want wheelpants the least I can offer is the mud flap
used by Full Lotus floats that is a piece of semi flexible plastic
(Nylon or eqvlt approx. 6X10") that is hinged at the front and lays
loosely on the tire while on the ground,and lifts up and stays
horizontal while flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All...
I was doing runway flights in preparation for first flight the next day and
found myself higher than I wanted to be and too little runway left for safety.
I first thought I would just go around in the pattern and land. I quickly
decided to just fly my planned first flight. Heck, I was already airborne.
I climbed out at 60 to 65 mph at about 6000 rpm (I think - I know not full
throttle) to 2 then 3000 feet staying in the pattern at first and then in the
immediate vacinity of the airport at that altitude. I showed about 1000+ on
each EGT. I didn't notice the exact water temp except that it was in the green.
I first noticed a heavy left wing feel and the tendency to want to hold
right rudder when trying to fly straight and level... an odd feeling in the
seat of my pants. According to my yaw string I was yawing right (kind of
skidding). I guess because I sit in the left seat and my 2nd Chantz chute is
above my head on the left side, the reason for the tendency to roll left is
the off center CG. Anyway, once I held a little right aileron and got off
the rudder the yaw string corrected itself. I played with the rudders then
the elevator and finally the ailerons. Then I did some 90 degree rather
flat turns, then some figure 8's gradually steepened the bank to about 20
degrees, no more. I tried to keep the speed between 60 and 70 mph and the
altitude at 3000. I slowed up the plane to slow flight and noticed slugish
controls below 50 and an actual stall break (straight forward) at around 45
mph. I wasn't expecting it so soon, but then I am not sure if my ASI is
reading correctly. I may change the placement of the static source and test
the speeds again. None the less, the indicated is what I need to know for
now. I then tried power off stalls and the speed was about the same... a
gentle but distinct forward break and almost immediate recovery. That done,
I just flew around a few minutes enjoying the great view the Kolb provides.
I then wanted to get down without cutting power too much. I reduced
throttle to 4000 rpm and had to glide at up to 75 mph or so to loose very
much altitude. I noticed before I started down that my water temp was
really cool (130 to 140) and I didn't want it to get any cooler while
decending. The landing was not what I would call a beauty, but it did the
job. I had trained to keep 60 at all times in the pattern and reduce
throttle to about 4000 on turning base and adjust as needed on final. Bring
in a little throttle on rounding out, stabilize flying just off the round,
kiss the ground with the mains, pull off any power gently while adding
forward stick to keep the mains planted and keeping on the centerline with
the rudder until the tail falls on its own... the typical wheel landing.
Well I pretty much planted it immediately after rounding out and very short
float. I need to work on my gentleness next time. I had very little cross
wind (about 5 degrees) and 8 mph. Flight time was 0.6 hours.
I was on a high for the rest of the day. Several guys wandered by the
hanger to comment on the fact that they had seen me flying (finally) and to
offer their congratulations. One was a FS-I builder that lives at the
airport who has not begun his project (had it about 4 years now). He said
seeing the Kolb flying got his juices stirred up again. I am going to try
to get him off high center and started building.
I adjusted the right flap up (two turns out on the rod end) a little to try to
correct for the tendency to roll left. I will adjust flap down on the
opposite side if needed after the next flight. Next time up I will adjust
the trim lever from zero up to 2 notches before take off and will be able to
reach and adjust more if needed in flight. The first flight I was so
tightly strapped in I couldn't reach the trim lever without wiggling out of my
harness. I had enough on my plate to look after at the time. Frankly,
everything was pretty much a big blur... a very nice one.
My impression in one statement is that the Kolb is everything I ever
expected it to be... maybe even more. My dreams have come true. I am
looking forward to my 2nd flight which will be a repeat of the first. This
week's weather looks bad... maybe next weekend.
Later,
Cliff Stripling (previously self named "Chicken Little" - no longer)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re[2]: Mud on wings |
Sounds like you want your cake and to eat it to.
Looks like you have a choice not flying it, that will keep the leading
edge and bottom clean but then you have to deal with the dust which
gathers on top or accept some form of wheel pants. Tuff choice.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mud on wings
Date: 2/23/97 8:43 PM
On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:
> I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave
> aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants .
> Duane
Wear it (the mud) with pride.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fred Steadman <fstead(at)fastlane.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mud on wings |
jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
>
> Sounds like you want your cake and to eat it to.
>
> Looks like you have a choice not flying it, that will keep the leading
> edge and bottom clean but then you have to deal with the dust which
> gathers on top or accept some form of wheel pants. Tuff choice.
>
>
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: Mud on wings
> Author: Ben Ransom at MAILGATE
> Date: 2/23/97 8:43 PM
>
> On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:
> > I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave
> > aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants .
> > Duane
>
> Wear it (the mud) with pride.
>
> -Ben Ransom
Fly from a hard surface runway on dry days.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
Subject: | Wing Gap Seal for my Mark III/912/BRS |
I've taken some pictures of the gap seal between the wings for my Mark
III, with 912 engine and BRS 1050 parachute.
The design departs considerably from the plans. The first cross section
is closer to the front, and there are no other structural members that
go between the wings.
This shows the setup of the master, ignition, strobe, EIS power, and EIS
select switches, which are above the pilot's head. Note that they are
recessed so that they don't protrude and prevent the gap seal from being
installed or removed. You have to remember to remove the ignition key,
however - I've already broken one off removing the gap seal.
Dick Kuntzleman is considering making a "product" of the box with the
switches. If you are interested, call him at 610 326 9068. I'm so far
very pleased with the location in the gap seal - you can see and easily
reach the switches, but they don't interfere with getting in and out.
In the pictures, the seal is upside down. This shows it looking from
the rear of the airplane:
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/wgaprear.jpg
This is an overhead shot.
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/wgapover.jpg
This shows a side view.
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/wgapside.jpg
Note I haven't indexed these yet - you'll have to type the entire URL to
see the pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com> |
Can anybody tell me what the CG range is on the Mark III relative to the
center of the wing spar?
Thanks
Ron
PS. first wing is almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All,
Thanks to all of you who sent me "congrats". I really appreciate all of the
many nice comments.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
Subject: | Re: Mud on wings |
You wrote:
>
>On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:>
> I need advice about keeping wings cleen, I have > aFirestar I I I
>don't want wheel pants .
>> Duane
>
What!! mud on a Kolb wing ? This is totally unacceptable!
If you do not want wheelpants the least I can offer is the mud flap
used by Full Lotus floats that is a piece of semi flexible plastic
(Nylon or eqvlt approx. 6X10") that is hinged at the front and lays
loosely on the tire while on the ground,and lifts up and stays
horizontal while flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
Have you thought of using a seat tank (I think they hold about 12 gal.)
I think you can get them from Golden Circle
"http://www.netins.net/showcase/t-birds/"
The tank is in the backrest of the seat.
----------
From: Russell Duffy
Subject: Kolb-List: Seats = 2
Date: Wednesday, February 19, 1997 23:27PM
Hi again,
Thanks to everyone that commented on my recent dilemma. I sent the FAA
registration request letter today and listed the SS as 2-place. In the
end, I just couldn't justify giving up the seat. Now I'll look into
finding a fuel tank that I like better for the normal location.
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
I'm getting ready to order the engine for my FS II. I decided on the
447 instead of the 503, money thing (couldn't find enough cans) and I can't
decide on which propeller to use, which do you think is better the two blade
wood, two blade Ivo or the 60" three blade Ivo?
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
It looks like Cliff has the same trim problems that I had with my FS II.
So far every Kolb I know of has the same problems.
These trim problems are especially a characteristic of pusher type
airplanes where the vertical tail is in the prop flow. The airflow off
the prop has a spiral pattern (clockwise looking forward) which impinges
on the right side of the vertical stabilizer/rudder on my Kolb (Rotax
503 with B box). Since the rudder is bigger than the vertical
stabilizer, it moves to the left so the airplane turns to the left (and
also slightly rolls left since the rudder is above the centerline). If
you install a trim tab on the rudder forcing the rudder to neutral, the
spiral airstream forces the whole tail to the left causing the whole
airplane to fly yawed to the right.
I've corrected the turning tendency by dropping the left flap and
reflexing the right flap (my own design). This could also be done by
using a trim tab on the ailerons. I also shortened the right rudder
pedal spring by 1" giving a 7 pound bias. I've tried a temporary rudder
tab large enough to neutralize the rudder but didn't like the resulting
perpetual yaw.
Hank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Sun, 25 Feb 1996, Henry Fritze wrote:
> It looks like Cliff has the same trim problems that I had with my FS II.
> So far every Kolb I know of has the same problems.
>
> These trim problems are especially a characteristic of pusher type
> airplanes where the vertical tail is in the prop flow. The airflow off
> the prop has a spiral pattern (clockwise looking forward) which impinges
> on the right side of the vertical stabilizer/rudder on my Kolb (Rotax
> 503 with B box). Since the rudder is bigger than the vertical
> stabilizer, it moves to the left so the airplane turns to the left (and
> also slightly rolls left since the rudder is above the centerline). If
> you install a trim tab on the rudder forcing the rudder to neutral, the
> spiral airstream forces the whole tail to the left causing the whole
> airplane to fly yawed to the right.
Mine is a Firestar KXP and has longer ailerons, but otherwise is about
the same as the FS I and II. My plane wants to go RIGHT at full power
climb due to P-factor and prop torque, requiring left rudder. This is
a *normal* thing in all prop planes (altho' direction is opposite of GA).
I'm not so sure about the above logic with the prop spiral pushing the
*rudder* to the left. Admittedly, if this tendency showed up in all of a
type, i spose you'd have to wonder. However, there is another possible
cause (and solution) mentioned previously by Dennis Souder (i think):
Consider the propwash as upper and lower halves, the upper pushing
air to the starboard, and the lower half pushing air to the port side.
Changing the shims on the engine mount to pitch the engine thrust line
slightly up or down determines how much of each half of the prop flow
hits the vertical stabilizer and rudder. Problems of the type described
above have been corrected by shimming the thrust line up or down.
Attempted solutions to put permanent trim into the rudder, ailerons,
or flaps would affect flight in all regimes, regardless of engine power
setting, a lousy deal. For example, adding trim to "correct" P-factor or
Torque could cause a tendency to fly too much in the trimmed direction
when at cruise or fast glide. In short, make sure whether the problem
is related to the prop or possibly to some other alignment problem before
adding permanent trim.
my $.02
p.s. obviously if you are shimming your engine mount to move the
thrust line down, you gotta keep enf clearance from the fuse' tube.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | manliker(at)uiuc.edu (Mark Anliker) |
I'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a
Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers,
etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy
first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it?
***************************************************
Mark A. Anliker Voice: 217-333-5383
Assistant Hydrologist Fax: 217-244-0777
Illinois State Water Survey
***************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Shamblin <shamblin(at)hc1.hci.net> |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
i dont use a pop rivit gun myself, but robin(at)pineland.net has one and
much plane building. i bet she would share ideas. or come to ultralight
chat 9-10 est most nights. sign in at washington.dc.us.irc.q.net
port 6667 with channel= ultrafly
bill shamblin
On Wed, 26 Feb 1997, Mark Anliker wrote:
> I'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a
> Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers,
> etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy
> first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it?
>
> ***************************************************
> Mark A. Anliker Voice: 217-333-5383
> Assistant Hydrologist Fax: 217-244-0777
> Illinois State Water Survey
> ***************************************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I like the three blade props. Several reasons for my decision, in trailering
the kold the three blade prop works better with the folded wings.(if you
enclose the trailer the 2 blade prop must stick straight up and down and
therfore the ceiling of the trailer will need to be that much higher.
Reason 2, on a mx I had, a 2 blade prop caused a kinda harmonic vibration in
relation the the engine/prop gearing, when I switched to a 3 blade prop the
vibration was gone.
FYI from my point of view.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Wed, 26 Feb 1997 Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote:
> I like the three blade props. Several reasons for my decision, in trailering
> the kold the three blade prop works better with the folded wings.(if you
> enclose the trailer the 2 blade prop must stick straight up and down and
> therfore the ceiling of the trailer will need to be that much higher.
...clip
or you can leave the 2 bladed prop in the horizontal position, in which
case it is no wider than the airplane's wheel track. my vote is generally
for 2 blade compared to 3, just for their greater efficiency, plus they're
cheaper. btw, i do like my warp prop.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
Mark Anliker wrote:
>
> I'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a
> Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers,
> etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy
> first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it?
I got my Air Hydraulic Rivet gun from Northern Hydraulic
(1-800-533-5545) for $62. You might find one cheaper if you look
around, but this one works fine. I feel like the Air gun does a better
job on the rivets, but any extra quality is just gravy and not really
required for a safe plane. Also keep in mind that there are plenty of
places where the larger snout of the air gun won't reach. These have to
be done with a hand riveter.
As far as the order to buy the tools and kit, I doubt it matters. If
you live someplace where you can just drive down to the Harbor Freight
Store, you might just pick them up as needed, rather than ordering in
advance. Even in the best of cases, you'll have plenty of time to
collect tools between the time you send the check and the time kit ABF
Freight truck shows up with your kit.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> I got my Air Hydraulic Rivet gun from Northern Hydraulic
> (1-800-533-5545) for $62. You might find one cheaper if you look
> around, but this one works fine.
> Russell Duffy
> rad(at)pen.net
> http://www.pen.net/~rad/
I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin
together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for
his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the
mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there?
Marc Robertson
marc@blackberry-ridge.com
________________________________________________________________________________
(peer crosschecked as: blue.spectra.net [204.177.130.1])
From: | Tom Decker <tdecker(at)spectra.net> |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
Marc , I have also had that problem and it is easy to fix . Remove the nose
peice from
the gun , you should be able to see the jaws now . Put a few drops of
thinner on the
jaws and put the nose back on and your done . You will find the riveter will
now work
as it should . I returned two guns to Sears before I found out what the
problem was .
Try it it should help on both hand and air riveters.
...Tom
>I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin
>together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for
>his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the
>mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there?
>
>Marc Robertson
>marc@blackberry-ridge.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fred Steadman <fstead(at)fastlane.net> |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
Tom Decker wrote:
>
> Marc , I have also had that problem and it is easy to fix . Remove the nose
> peice from
> the gun , you should be able to see the jaws now . Put a few drops of
> thinner on the
> jaws and put the nose back on and your done . You will find the riveter will
> now work
> as it should . I returned two guns to Sears before I found out what the
> problem was .
> Try it it should help on both hand and air riveters.
> ...Tom
>
> >I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin
> >together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for
> >his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the
> >mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there?
> >
> >Marc Robertson
> >marc@blackberry-ridge.com
> >
> >
I must be dense. I can't guess from your description of the fix what
the problem was.
________________________________________________________________________________
(peer crosschecked as: blue.spectra.net [204.177.130.1])
From: | Tom Decker <tdecker(at)spectra.net> |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
Fred , The problem as Marc said below is that the jaws were slipping on the
rivet stem
when he tried to pull the rivet . If you still don't understand let me know
,ok .
...Tom
>Tom Decker wrote:
>>
>> Marc , I have also had that problem and it is easy to fix . Remove the nose
>> peice from
>> the gun , you should be able to see the jaws now . Put a few drops of
>> thinner on the
>> jaws and put the nose back on and your done . You will find the riveter will
>> now work
>> as it should . I returned two guns to Sears before I found out what the
>> problem was .
>> Try it it should help on both hand and air riveters.
>> ...Tom
>>
>> >I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin
>> >together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for
>> >his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the
>> >mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there?
>> >
>> >Marc Robertson
>> >marc@blackberry-ridge.com
>> >
>> >
>
>I must be dense. I can't guess from your description of the fix what
>the problem was.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don <poppld(at)tdbank.ca> |
Subject: | Re-Packing a Ballistic Parachute |
Has anyone had a Ballistic Parachute repacked in Canada if so where?
Transporting it across the border is a real hassle.
Don Popplow
poppld(at)tdbank.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
Marc Robertson wrote:
> I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin
> together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for
> his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the
> mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there?
One other thing to check is the adjustment of the jaw mechanism. When I
got my air riveter, it worked great, but the shanks were a tight fit and
impossible to remove once the rivet was set. I kept having to take the
gun apart to get them out. After a little experimentation, I realized
there was an undocumented adjustment that would fix this problem. Over
time I imagine the teeth wear out some, and the gun might start to lose
it's grip. You might need to make this adjustment periodically.
--
Russell Duffy
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Wed, 26 Feb 1997, Daniel D. Bush wrote:
> Early GA planes had a similar problem on going to the right on take-off
> using abrupt full power. There solution was to "ramp" up to the tail
> from the fusalage - you see this on most Cessna's even today. That is
> supposed to break up the swirling airstream and "reduce" the effect on
> the tail - the operative word is reduce - the Citabra still has the
> tendency of turning slightly to the left on take-off.
I once checked to see how quick I could get off the ground. This was with
about 10mph headwind on pavement. I advanced throttle quickly and fed in
left rudder just as fast. I was off the ground in 4 seconds and hadn't
even quite hit full power yet as I was limited by the torque/Pfactor
pulling me right in spite of nearly full left rudder. With a little
practice i think i could've gotten it under 3 seconds :-), especially
if i changed my prop pitch from cruise to climb. definetly a head turner.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | 2nd Test, 0.9 hrs. |
To All:
1. I changed the static port to inside of the cockpit behind the instrument
panel. No change in stall speed (45) was noticed. On returning, I
reattached the static port to the original location about 2" in front of the
nose under the pitot tube.
2. I raised the right flap by 2 revolutions on the control arm rod end and
it almost eliminated the low left wing problem. On returning, I did 1/2 rev
inward on the left (the left is now out of adjustment room) and 1/2 rev
outward on the right.
3. I took off with 2 notches of trim. That was just about right. At 3000
ft I put in 1 more notch and that was perfect for my weight and loading.
Take off / climb 6000 rpm, 65 mph, 155 degrees, 975 EGTs(equal)
Straight and level...
3000 ft 5500 rpm, 75 mph, 140- degrees, 1000 EGTs (equal)
3000 ft 5000 rpm, 70 mph, 140- degrees, 1000+ EGTs (equal)
3000 ft 6500 rpm, 85 mph, 140 degrees, 1000 EGTs (equal)
3000 ft 5000 rpm, 65 mph, 140- degrees, 1000+EGTs (equal)
On return, I added a strip of 2" wide duct tape to the top of each radiator
to keep the temperature up a little. I think 160 is about right, so I need
to block some of that air. As the weather warms up and the temperature
rises, I will remove it.
My second landing was not one of beauty, but not bad. I just rounded out
and put it down. Next flight I will TRY to make several fly-bys and work on
my pattern and landing technique.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (0.6 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Kiger" <edkiger(at)netnitco.net> |
Subject: | Jet needle adjustment |
I would like to know if it is correct to set each jet needle ( dual carb) (
503) by the corresponding egt? I called CPS (Calif Power Sys. ) and was
told not to do that.
They said to set both needles the same ! It would seen to me that the idea
of dual egt would be to set up each carb for best temp for that cylinder.
Ed Kiger
edkiger(at)netnitco.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
Subject: | Re: 2nd Test, 0.9 hrs. |
On Thu, 27 Feb 1997, Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
> On return, I added a strip of 2" wide duct tape to the top of each radiator
> to keep the temperature up a little. I think 160 is about right, so I need
> to block some of that air. As the weather warms up and the temperature
> rises, I will remove it.
>
I guess I don't understand something here. Don't these things have a
thermostat like all other water-cooled engines? It seems pretty
mickey-mouse to have to do something like this on a $4K engine.
***************************************************************
* Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the *
* MICOM Communications * shiny side *
* Simi Valley, CA * up. *
***************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
The velocity of the airflow affecting the tail comes from two main
sources: freestream and prop blast. These vary with respect to each
other thru out the flight regime. If the effects are corrected at one
flight mode (such as cruise), they are not necessarily correct (and
probably will not be) for any other.
I took a string and doubled it and taped it to my prop tips to find out
where my thrust centerline met the vertical tail. It was about 2/3'ds of
the way up from the horizontal tail. Consequently, a clockwise spiraling
tube of air coming off that prop will impact mostly the right hand side
of the vertical stabilizer/rudder. That impact will have two effects.
The rudder will be blown left and the vertical stabilizer will be blown
left. The first will cause a left roll/turn. The second will cause a
right yaw. This is exactly what I observed in my FS II.
I had to hold right stick pressure to keep it from turning/rolling left
with no feet on the rudder pedal. The rudder pedals were displaced, with
the left one further out. It didn't yaw.
I could also prevent it from turning/rolling left by applying right
rudder with hands off the stick. It went straight but yawed right.
If you correct the turn/roll problem with a rudder trim tab, you end up
with a yaw. If the trim tab is up in the prop wash you get a strong
right turn on take-off. Repitching the thrustline down (up on the tail)
and putting the trim tab low on the rudder helps.
If you correct the turn/roll problem with an aileron trim tab (or
differential flaps) at least you don't get a yaw. But your rudder will
be slightly deflected to the left (feet off).
If you tried to pitch the thrustline down enough so the propwash cleared
the tail, It would probably make takeoffs really weird and you'd have to
make major pitch corrections to counter act it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
Subject: | Jet needle settings |
CPS is right. Set the jet needles in the same notch. You can't trust
most dual EGT indicating systems. Mine last Westach system was off by
about 40 degrees F. between cylinders. The reason for dual carbs. is
uniform flow to each cylinder rather than individual adjustability. This
is my opinion of course, but I have had 3 dual carb. 503's in my career.
cordially, Hank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Talk with Dennis and Dan... |
To All...
I talked to Dan and Dennis at Kolb today about my indicated airspeed being
45 indicated. I described my test changing the static port to behind the
instrument panel with full enclosure in place. They said that inside the
cabin with full enclosure that the ambient pressure was a little lower than
true ambient and that that would make my ASI read higher than true air
speed. Since my test inside the cockpit matched the speed at my outside
nose location, I think that my nose static port is also a little lower than
true ambient. That could easily be since the tiny holes on either side of
the rounded nose and plugged static tube are just behind the rounded nose
and possibly in the negative area of a bow wave off the tip of the tube.
Anyway, they think that my ASI is reading high and that I should use the
following (indicated speeds for my plane) while in the pattern: (1) lift off
at 50, accelerate to 65 and climb at 65 at full throttle to pattern altitude
before reducing to any other power setting. I had not been using full
throttle on climb out, only 6000 rpm. Now I will. (2) pattern speed at 65
mph and approach speed on base and final at 65 with rpm about 3000 to 3500
rpm (clearing engine with a little power occasionally) until at the
threshold then allowing speed to bleed off on round off. How you land from
this point on is a whole 'nother subject of which I am just beginning to master.
For me, it is easy to remember - fly at 65. I put a red mark at that speed
on my ASI.. and another at 45.
They said to leave the flaps alone for quite a few hours - only after I had
thoroughly mastered the Kolb without flaps. They highly recommended using a
yaw string to fly it straight.
They reminded me of their bungee aileron trim hooked from right floor pan
around stick back to right floor pan as a good way to counter the tendency
to bank left. The bungee can be pushed up for more tension and lower for
less. They said it worked great for solo and especially long solo flights.
With two passengers, they say it is not needed.
Dennis said to expect a news letter to builders from the company sometime
soon. That is very good news.
Dan said I needed to bring up my radiator water temps to at least 160 or
otherwise I risked a cold siezure and thought duct tape (or better a piece
of sheet aluminum bolted to the radiator tabs) to cover whatever area is
needed. He also said by summer I would not need any baffle as I would be
doing everything I could to keep it cool.
He said my static 6100 to 6200 rpm with an unloaded 6400 to 6500 rpm (he
would like to see 6500 to 6600) was a hair on the low side (too much pitch),
but I am happy with that for the time being. The engine should still loosen
up a little more, so the rpms may climb a little more.
Dan also said a good picture of glide and rate of descent on base and final
is with the flat bottom of the wing chord even with the horizon. I will
take a quick glance next time.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (1.5 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RSCRacing(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Jet needle adjustment |
Just my thought on EGT. You have to remember
that the front cylinder gets the outside air first, so
the back cylinder is actually getting warmer air off
of the front cylinder. This is why you see a slightly
higher EGT. on the back cylinder.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello,
> I guess I don't understand something here. Don't these things have a
> thermostat like all other water-cooled engines? It seems pretty
> mickey-mouse to have to do something like this on a $4K engine.
You can order a thermostat for it. We did this and it works well. I
like it much better then adding duct tape. :) I passed my private
pilot checkride. :) (just had to add that) So, my dad will check
me out in the kolb within a couple of days and then I shall be able
to fly it.
Brandon Kearbey
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey@ben.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12.
(_____________//----------------\^ ca.us
/ o
( )
Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Talk with Dennis and Dan |
To All...
This message bounced the first time I sent it. I hope it is not a duplicate
to anyone. I don't think either of them will mind me repeating some points
of what we discussed.
We discussed my indicated airspeed being 45 mph indicated. I described my
test on 2nd flight changing the static port to behind the instrument panel
with full enclosure in place. Dennis said that inside the cabin with full
enclosure that the ambient pressure was a little lower than true ambient and
that that would make my ASI read higher than true air speed. Since my test
inside the cockpit matched the indicated speed at my outside nose location,
I think that my nose static port is also a little lower than true ambient.
That could easily be since the tiny holes on either side of the plugged
static tube are just behind its rounded nose and may possibly be in a
negative pressure area of the bow wave at the tip of the tube. Dennis also
said that the faster you go the more error there is in the ASI readings vs.
true air speeds. Someday, I will borrow a GPS and find out what my actual
speeds are.
Anyway, they think that my ASI is reading incorrectly high and that I should
use the following (indicated air speeds for my plane) while in the pattern:
(1) lift off and accelerate to 65 and climb at 65 at full throttle to
pattern altitude before reducing to any other power setting. I had not been
using full throttle on climb out, only 6000 rpm. Now I will and whenever I
do any significant climbing as well - better lubrication I understand. (2)
pattern speed at 65 mph and approach speed on base and final at 65 with rpm
about 3000 to 3500 (clearing engine with a little power occasionally) until
at the threshold then allowing speed to bleed off on round off. How you
land from this point on is a whole 'nother subject of which I am just
beginning to master.
For me, it is easy to remember - fly at 65. I put a red marker at that speed
on my ASI.. and another at 45. I like simple instructions. The moral of
all this is to carry a good margin of (indicated) speed on your first flight
and test your (indicated) stall speeds before your first landing. I knew
from the runway flights I did that my stall speed was high - at least 40. I
just was a bit surprised to have it occur at 45 at altitude. I guess I had
not considered the ground effect.
They said to leave the flaps alone for quite a few hours - only after I had
thoroughly mastered the Kolb without flaps. I could not resist pulling 1/2
flaps momentarily while flying straight and level. They felt real normal -
a little bump up and a tiny pitch nose down. I remember my demo flight with
Dan 2 years ago at SNF when he was (in my opinion) way too high on final.
He pulled flaps and pointed the nose very steeply down. We settled like we
were in an elevator and rounded out for a perfect landing. I had a grin on
my face that lasted until I climbed in my sleeping bag that night. Thanks
again, Dan, if you ever read this.
They highly recommended using a yaw string to fly it straight. I would
consider it a primary flight instrument for the Kolb as it flys sideways
about as well as it flies straight. I forgot to ask if slips were effective
or recommended to lose altitude. With those big flaps, I would think flaps
would be more effective.
They reminded me of their bungee aileron trim hooked from right floor pan edge
around stick back to right floor pan edge as a good way to counter the tendency
to bank left. The bungee can be pushed up for more tension and lower for
less. They said it worked great for solo and especially long solo flights.
With two passengers, they say it is not needed.
Dennis said to expect a news letter to builders from the company sometime
soon. That is very good news.
Dan said I needed to bring up my radiator water temps to at least 160 or
otherwise I risked a cold siezure and thought duct tape (or better a piece
of sheet aluminum bolted to the radiator tabs) to cover whatever area is
needed. He also said by summer I would not need any baffle as I would be
doing everything I could to keep the engine cool.
He said my static 6100 to 6200 rpm with an unloaded 6400 to 6500 rpm (he
would like to see 6500 to 6600) was a hair on the low side (too much pitch),
but I am happy with that for the time being. The engine should still loosen
up a little more, so the rpms may climb a little more.
Dan also said a good picture of glide and rate of descent on base and final
is with the flat bottom of the wing chord even with the horizon. I will
take a quick glance next time.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (1.5 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
writes:
<< 'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a
Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers,
etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy
first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it? >>
I bought a cheap Chinese pnumatic rivet puller from J.C.Whitney catalog.
Still going strong after 1 & 1/2 Kolbs and 2 Titans.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: pop rivet gun |
Robertson) writes:
<< I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin
together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for
his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the
mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there?
>>
The gun loses its grip because the hydraulic fluid has leaked out. This
happened to me. Take the gun apart from the bottom, remove the plunger & rod
and refill the top of the gun with heavy weight oil.
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze) |
Subject: | Dual carb. Rotax |
I would be willing to bet that Rotax would recommend that both carbs. in
a dual carb setup be adjusted identically.
cheers, Hank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patty MacGregor <pattym(at)superior.iceware.com> |
Hi,
I have been on the mailing list for about a month to date and have not
seen any mention of any of the earlier Kolb models. Were they so well
designed that there are no bugs to iron out so Homer designed the Fire star
and Mk lll series to quell his run of perfection?
Really, I have a few questions for owners of Ultrastars.
1) Has anyone found a composit prop to fit? 50" long.
2) Is there a problem with harmonic viberation at cruise speed?
3) What about a pilot enclosure for winter flying?
4) Has anyone used skis on their Ultrastar?
I built my Ultrastar in 1984 and took it to the Oskosh flyin in 1991. When
I regestered at the barn, they parked me in the antique line and during the
evening take off and landing fest, the announcer refered to me as the mowing
machine (the prop has about 5" clearance from the ground.) In just seven
years, my ride went from shiny new to a blast from the past. It really
doesn't matter, because it is still great fun flying it at age 13.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All...
I need a little help here. I am having trouble with transmitting on my
portable ICOM A 21. Here is my set up and it is pretty simple. I am
getting power off an isolated (from the engine system) battery located in
the nose. My ICOM is connected to my headset through a portable intercom.
None of the wiring is shielded. My antenna is just the rubber duckey off
the ICOM (with a patch cable with bnc plugs on either end). The duckey is
mounted through the nose cone fiberglass wall. The poor transmissions occur
whether the duckey is on the ICOM or at the remote nose location. The
reports that I have received is that the transmissions are not very strong
and that there is so much noise that the words pretty much covered up. I
receive very well others transmissions.
I know that part of the noise is caused by the Rotax ignition system. I
know that part of my problem is the high noise environment in the cockpit
that the mic is picking up. Perhaps the duckey is not what I should be
using and I should go ahead and install a whip antenna. I suspect my radio
is picking up the ingition noise through the interconnecting wiring of the
radio, battery, intercom and headset.
I have some idea of how to fix most of my radio problems, yet I am not sure
what to do about the Rotax 582. How do I properly shield the spark plug
wires and any other part I have not considered. Do I cover as much as
possible with the braided copper shielding and use shrink-i-dink on both
ends to hold it in place. Do I have to buy the expensive metal covers for
each plug that I have seen in the USUA ads. Should I switch to the resistor
type spark plug. Some of you "old hands" out there I know have the answers.
I failed to mention that the electrical system for the engine is the simple
non-battery standard Kolb one with the better regulator and a capacitor to
run the engine instruments and stobe.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (1.5 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
>Hi,
> I have been on the mailing list for about a month to date and have not
>seen any mention of any of the earlier Kolb models. Were they so well
>designed that there are no bugs to iron out so Homer designed the Fire star
>and Mk lll series to quell his run of perfection?
> Really, I have a few questions for owners of Ultrastars.
> 1) Has anyone found a composit prop to fit? 50" long.
> 2) Is there a problem with harmonic viberation at cruise speed?
> 3) What about a pilot enclosure for winter flying?
> 4) Has anyone used skis on their Ultrastar?
>
> I built my Ultrastar in 1984 and took it to the Oskosh flyin in 1991. When
>I regestered at the barn, they parked me in the antique line and during the
>evening take off and landing fest, the announcer refered to me as the mowing
>machine (the prop has about 5" clearance from the ground.) In just seven
>years, my ride went from shiny new to a blast from the past. It really
>doesn't matter, because it is still great fun flying it at age 13.
>
>
I built an Ultrastar about 11 years ago and flew it for about six, I
installed a partial enclosure from a Beaver ultralight. I looked and worked
OK. I flew it in the winter down to about +5 degrees F. I kept my flights
to about 25 minutes maximum at that temp. I installed skis for winter
flying, they worked good. I made them from an old pair of wooden water
skis. I strengthened them with a layer of fiberglass on the bottom. I had
several iced carbs that resulted in forced landings, I then installed carb heat.
I can not remember any serious harmonic vibration problems. My Ultrastar
had a Cuyuna UL11-O2 with twin belt reduction.
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)hotmail.com> |
As a brand new FireFly builder (.0001% done 659% to go)I thought I could avoid
the painting phase for some time. Now the manual says to prime all steel parts
prior to starting the rudder assembly... I've pretty much decided against
powder coating (wrong decision??).
My questions are :
The manual says to prime and paint all steel parts. Is the finish paint really
necessary at this point ?? Is primer enough. Is primer enough to protect the
parts of the rudder assembly that will soon be buried in aluminum?
How do you handle the inside of the tubes? Try to spray primer in? What about
the stainless steel parts... should they be primed?
Jumping way ahead. I've wondered how the fabric on the inside of the
cage is handled. If you have the cage powder coated prior to overing,
is it all masked before painting the inside covering??
I've been lurking in the shadows of this group for sometime and have learned a
bunch. Hope to be active in the future.
Wally Hofmann
Wickenburg, Arizona
http://www.foxfibre.com/cotton/
whofmann(at)hotmail.com
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu (Charles Henry) |
Subject: | Low frequency vibration |
To All
My Firestar I with a 447 engine and 3 blade Ivo prop has a distinct low
frequency vibration that I would guess is about 30-40 Hz., also you can hear
a sound like the "whop" of a helicoopter at a distance.
Has anyone else noticed this?
I have 5 inches clearance from the prop to the trailing edge of the wing and
have the pitch set to give 6200 rpm static.
I assume that the "whop" sound is from the close proximity of the prop and
airframe. Could the airframe be resonant at the frequency of the
interference pulses?
Dennis at Kolb did not have an answer.
I plan to try changing the prop to two blade with increased pitch to see if
that changes the vibration.
The engine does not seem to be missing and makes lots of power as the climb
rate is good. The engine and airframe has 30 hours on it and this has
been going on since new. The vibration is not severe but can be felt
through the seat.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
On Wed, 5 Mar 1997, Wally Hofmann wrote:
>
> As a brand new FireFly builder (.0001% done 659% to go)I thought I could avoid
> the painting phase for some time. Now the manual says to prime all steel parts
> prior to starting the rudder assembly... I've pretty much decided against
> powder coating (wrong decision??).
Go with powder coating. I started cleaning and priming before I knew I
December 15, 1996 - March 05, 1997
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ac