Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ac

December 15, 1996 - March 05, 1997



Date: Dec 15, 1996
From: bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison)
Dear Kolb group: I sincerely don't remember whether we are allowed to post items for sale or not in this group. If not, let me know and I'll find another place to post this ad and I'll punish myself severely. Item #1 Rotax 377 w/ B-box, 86 hours on Kolb FSII. All new seals, gaskets, plugs, carb boot, wrap around muffler, best of care, $1600 or best offer. Want to install larger engine and take advantage of FSII's second seat. Item #2 Used Bing carburetor for Rotax , good condition, jets and needles for both 377 and 447 engines available, $100. Phone # 704-843-3161 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 1996
From: CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net>
Subject: Subaru
Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks for any information. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: Kenneth Davies <"kenneth(at)midusa.net"(at)midusa.net>
Subject: Ultrastar
I purchased a used Kolb Ultrastar a couple of years ago and have enjoyed it immensely. I decided to do a total recover this winter and make some modifications-add a small fairing on the front-extend the landing gear for rough field landing(pastures and such)etc. My question: I have heard about someone designing a flaperon control setup for the Ultrastar. I believe it was in the EAA Experimenter awhile back. Is anyone using flaperons or know anything about the setup? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all! Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Subaru (NOT)
On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, CAL wrote: > > Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how > does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are > there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks > for any information. > this is way way out there. i'm don't kno what a suburu engine weighs, but it must be at least 150 lbs minimum, maybe 250. a Rotax 447 weighs 79 with everything on it, a 503 is 87. maybe a suburu powered FS is like a RR Merlin powered C-172. Nice engine, but different ballgame. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com>
Subject: Re: Subaru (NOT)
>On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, CAL wrote: >> >> Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how >> does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are >> there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks >> for any information. >> >this is way way out there. i'm don't kno what a suburu engine weighs, >but it must be at least 150 lbs minimum, maybe 250. a Rotax 447 weighs >79 with everything on it, a 503 is 87. A direct drive suburu with all ancillary equipment weighs around 130 lb. A PSRU adds another 35 lbs. The direct drive provides about 70 hp in the under 4000 rpm range. The PSRU allows the engine to deliver around 100 hp. These are rough numbers bandied around in the EAA Experimenter in the Q&A articles. ######################################################################### Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923 Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552 Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431 ######################################################################### ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Cabin heat concept, weight and balance, feedback welcome.
Gentlemen: I am adding cabin-heat to the Mark III. I have decided that I will use hot water from the cooling system routed to an automotive heater core mounted right out in the fiberglass nose cone. A small fan will pull cabin air (no ventilation) thru the core and blast the heated air at the pilot and passenger's legs. They always say if your feet are warm, you are comfortable. Also, I have read you finished Mark III bulders' notes saying you had to add some weight up-front for proper balance anyway. I would hate to have to do that with dead weight. This way the weight is doing something constructive part of the year (most of the year here in frozen Minnesota). It looks like the thing will weigh 5.5 pounds with core and fan, minus coolant and hoses. I welcome your feedback on this idea, and I have a couple specific questions for those of you with experience or intuition: 1. For those of you who are using hot-water heat, how are you connecting to the cooling system, what Rotax-radiator system do you use, and how are you controlling the flow of hot water to the core without affecting the normal flow thru the cooling system. 2. Are my weight and balance assumptions correct (I am assuming I will be nose light for pilot-only and full fuel, 180lb pilot. I am using the 582, 3-bladed Warp or ground-adjust Ivo, NO ELECTRIC START, NO BATTERY, normal 2-3 coat paint job all Stits, hyd brakes, full enclosure, normal VFR instrumentation, standard-length tail boom.) I know you are guessing when you answer this question, but your educated guesses are the best I have right now. Thanks for the help, again. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PHILL_MAGNUSON@HP-Boise-om2.om.hp.com
Date: Dec 19, 1996
Subject: Unique flying experience
Just after the question about a Subaru engine on a Kolb, I got this. May be a common thread. ---------- Submitted by Mark Huffstetter (Engineer, KING 5 TV Seattle). You all know about the Darwin Awards - It's an annual honor given to the person who did the gene pool the biggest service by killing themselves in the most extraordinarily stupid way. Last year's winner was the fellow who was killed by a Coke machine] which toppled over on top of him as he was attempting to tip a free soda out of it. And this year's nominee is: The Arizona Highway Patrol came upon a pile of smoldering metal embedded into the side of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of a curve. The wreckage resembled the site of an airplane crash, but it was a car. The type of car was unidentifiable at the scene. The lab finally figured out what it was and what had happened. It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO unit (Jet Assisted Take Off - actually a solid fuel rocket) that is used to give heavy military transport planes an extra "push" for taking off from short airfields. He had driven his Chevy Impala out into the desert and found a long, straight stretch of road. Then he attached the JATO unit to his car, jumped in, got up some speed and fired off the JATO! The facts as best as could be determined are that the operator of the 1967 Impala hit the JATO ignition at a distance of approximately 3.0 miles from the crash site. This was established by the prominent scorched and melted asphalt at that location. The JATO, if operating properly, would have reached maximum thrust within 5 seconds, causing the Chevy to reach speeds well in excess of 350 mph and continuing at full power for an additional 20-25 seconds. The driver, soon to be pilot, most likely would have experienced G-forces usually reserved for dog-fighting F-14 jocks under full afterburners, basically causing him to become insignificant for the remainder of the event. However, the automobile remained on the straight highway for about 2.5 miles (15-20 seconds) before the driver applied and completely melted the brakes, blowing the tires and leaving thick rubber marks on the road surface, then becoming airborne for an additional 1.4 miles and impacting the cliff face at a height of 125 feet leaving a blackened crater 3 feet deep in the rock. Most of the driver's remains were not recoverable; however, small fragments of bone, teeth and hair were extracted from the crater and fingernail and bone shards were removed from a piece of debris believed to be a portion of the steering wheel. Epilog: ---------- It has been calculated that this moron nearly reached Mach I, attaining a ground-speed of approximately 420 mph. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Pointer to British aviation accident reports, Kolb
If you are interested, there is an Internet site by the U.K. D.O.T. reporting aviation incidents and accidents. I found three reports of Kolb MkIIIs in there. One showing a mechanism for checking rod bearing wear without engine teardown! And two others discussing a floor pan modification to prevent spinal injuries in heavy landings. The address: www.open.gov.uk/aaib/bulletin.htm The months of interest were October and August. Happy surfing>>> Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Loveonetwo(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 19, 1996
Subject: Re: Pointer to British aviation accident reports, Kolb
take me off this mailing list, i am getting about 50 unwanted e-mail messages a day, i don't know how or why you guys are mailing but stop it now it is driving me crazy thanks KIMMI:-)(-: ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
Subject: Re: Subaru
I've never used one in a KOLB so I can't answer Kolb specific questions. Subaru made a horizontally opposed four cylinder two stroke for many years. I currently have three engines, one of which is not likely to ever be usable again. (failed due to inactivity for many years and failed on the ground during runup testing.) There are at least two versions. I have a 1980 model that is 1600 cc or approximately 68 bhp at 4000 rpm. I have a 1981 model that is the same. The primary difference between the two was the smog equipment but I understand either year can have either type of smog devices installed. They are generally removed for use on an ultralight. I have a 1984 that is 1800 cc and produces about 76 bhp at 4200 rpm. It is essentially identical to the other two otherwise. The prop drive was manufactured by some company in Australia. Unfortunately I bought this as used and the address of the company is not readable any longer. But, it is a belt drive with a reduction of what appears to be about 2.5 to one. The prop is a wooden prop with 64 x 42 size and pitch. This generally keeps the engine peak speed during takeoff to about 4400 rpm. Ideal for this type of four stroke engine. The April 1996 issue of KitPlanes Magazine had several pages of different engine manufacturers. Some of these listed Subaru engine conversions for ultralights. I would suspect if they were contacted, assuming you can find a back issue, they could tell you what type of mouning might be required for a Kolb Firestar II., Merry Christmas, Ron B. On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, CAL wrote: > Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 18:56:05 -0600 > From: CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net> > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Subaru > > > Has anyone ever used a subaru engine in a firestar II? If so how > does it work? What size engine is it? What gearbox (if any) do you use? Are > there any motor mounts you can buy or do you have to make your own? Thanks > for any information. > > "You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ] < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: CAL <calvin(at)peoples.net>
Subject: Thanks Subaru
Thanks for all the info on the subaru, I didn't realize the engine was so big, I guess I'll stick with the 503. Thanks again, Happy holidays. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 1996
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: General SlingShot update
Seasons Greetings to all, I found out recently that I have no natural abilities when it comes to covering. I covered the first horz stab using the standard Stits method of applying Poly-Tak, and it was ugly, but functional. Much of the problem was that I didn't plan ahead enough to make the outer glue seam end up on the bottom where it wouldn't be seen. Instead, it was too wide, and on top in plain view (and I rubbed a hole with the iron on the edge of one of the gussets). The second horz stab was covered using the an alternate method of applying Poly-Tak. In this method, the glue is put down first and allowed to dry, then the fabric is layed over the top, and MEK is rubbed through to soften the glue and attach the fabric. When I first tested this method on scrap tubing and fabric, it didn't appear to be as strong as the the normal method. Eventually, I discovered that it just takes longer to dry on the inside. Once I let it sit for a couple hours, I found that the glue is stronger than the fabric using either method. It took about all my strength to break a 4" wide piece of the fabric when pulling against the glue joint. The MEK method is much easier and neater than the standard method. Since the second stab came out so much better than the first, I peeled the covering off the first one to re-cover it. It looks like I may have underestimated the time the covering will take :-) Since there's been some talk recently about the quality of one supplier over another, I figured I would mention that all my orders (LEAF, Wicks, Spruce, Wag Aero, Grand Rapids) were handled well. In almost record time, I've received everything I ordered except the in-flight IVO prop and the EIS. I knew that the EIS will take about 3 weeks, and I also knew that the prop (from LEAF) is drop shipped from IVO rather than kept in stock. The prop went up from $640 to $720 which was an unwelcome surprise. I sure hope it's worth it. Almost all the instruments were ordered from Wag Aero and are made in China. I don't know if this is supposed to be good or not, but the instruments certainly appear to be first rate. I ordered a G-Meter too, and have been looking forward to playing with it when it arrived. This must not be uncommon since there's a big note attached to the box that says "WARNING, An accelerometer is a precision calibrated instrument. It is caged for transit and for handling prior to installation. DO NOT thrust the instrument up or down in order to satisfy your curiosity of needle movement. This will permanently damage" etc. I couldn't help but laugh when I read that. These guys are no fun at all. My engine should arrive any day I guess. Yesterday was 8 weeks. As soon as it shows up, I'll start the FAA paperwork process. I'm also still hopeful about receiving the final kit around the first of the year. Lastly (and thankfully, you say), I just posted the 4th roll of pictures on my page. My alloted 4 MB space was used up after the 3rd roll, but I asked my ISP what it would take to get more space for the pictures. Fortunately, the guy in the acounts department who received my message just got out of the Navy as a pilot. He though the plane looked fun, so he bumped me up to 10 MB for free. Now I may owe him a ride. If your in the mood to look at some pictures that are far less boring than mine, check out Ben's page. He just posted some new flight pics, and there just as excellent as always. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 1996
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Stits covering
Russell and All... The MEK >method is much easier and neater than the standard method. I heartily agree with the MEK method as well. It produces much smoother applications. Be sure to apply sufficient Poly-tac below and to press the cloth well into the re-dissolved Poly-tac below. It worked well for me on cloth to cloth bonds as well. Poly-tac drips and sqeeze throughs can be easily removed by rubbing with a little MEK. I found the use of a sash brush the best means of application of MEK through the cloth during the glue down proceedure. I kept it and the glue application brush in a capped fruit jar in some MEK between uses. Also the little baby food jars are great for use in applying the Poly-tac. They are just the right size to handle to keep the stuff from hardening too quickly and the have a lid that you can easily put on and remove. When the stuff dries just peal it out with your fingers and the jar is as good as new. It doesn't stick to the glass. Allow yourself plenty of ventilation. MEK is not good for your liver and is probably carcinogenic as well. If you mess up on covering the small parts there is plenty of Stits material (at least in my case) left over to cover the entire top or bottom of one of the main wings... something like 15 to 20 feet. They didn't scrimp on cloth. Use a calibrated iron and you won't burn holes or over tighten. Watch out for too much tension on the fragile smaller parts causing warping and bowing. Be careful ironing tapes or you will shrink and distort the edges. Useing a piece of ordinary cardboard when shrinking the main wing upper surface bow tip area is a big help. Is provides a surface for the iron to press evenly against as well as a surface that allows the iron to transfer its heat evenly. Be careful when popping rivets on the wing ribs to support the gun so that on the rebound after the "pop" you don't poke a hole in the fabric. I came very close to doing it once or twice. It is VERY easy to do. I wish Kolb would provide a bit more finishing tape supplies in the "kit" and perhaps a small amount of anti-chafe tape for the few unavoidable semi-sharp edges. I found that I did not need any "bias tape" for the curved edges. I bought an extra roll of both 2" and 3" standard tapes and used almost all of it. Could that be why my plane is over weight? (little joke) Yeah! that and a lot of other "little things". I don't know if this is >supposed to be good or not, but the instruments certainly appear to be >first rate. If you buy the cheaper instruments, it would be a good idea to build a shock mounted panel because the vibration will destroy them sooner or later. I bought the cheapest too and I have my fingers crossed. >Lastly (and thankfully, you say), I just posted the 4th roll of pictures >on my page. I have enjoyed your other pictures. Looking forward to the new ones. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 1996
From: Zachary and Carol Canright <zzacman(at)alaska.net>
Subject: Floats on MKIII and what is the gross?
I live in South East Alaska where there are lots of wide open flat spaces, unfortunately they are made of water. I saw on the Kolb demo tape a MKIII on floats. Who makes them and are they amphibious or straight floats? I would appreciate any insights from those who have or are building a Kolb on floats. What is the catch on the two gross ratings for the MKIII. Is it 750 or ???. Am in the final stages of deciding on what to build ie I finally have the $$$$ and would appreciate any information the group has. Thanks, Zac ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 1996
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Tail Lift
To All... I made a tail lift today to help me lift that awkward 66 lbs of tail wheel tucked way up under the rudder out of the way. It could have been made much better if I had a welder and knew how to weld. Here's my materials list. Two bed slats, a heavy guage metal bracket I found with three sides, two pieces of heavy guage rectangular strips of sheet metal, various screws and bolts and nuts, washers and a few rivets. I made a notch in the end of one of the slats to match the width of the tail spring, then I fastened both slats together with screws every foot or so. Then I hacksawed and filed the strips of sheet metal so that they would hook under the horizontal axle of the tail wheel and hold it snugly from the bottom and front and back sides. Then I riveted those strips to either side of the bracket and bolted the bracket to the two slats at the appropriate point to allow the notch to fit at the front of the tail spring. Voila! ..a tail lifter that allows you to lift straight up from behind the rudder so you can see where you are going and you can see both wing tips (not blocked by the rudder). It still is a heavy lift, but not as awkward and you can pull, push and shift to either side with ease. Those of us with weak backs can appreciate this. Now if it were made of welded metal you could make a nicer lifter utilizing a very flat upside down triangle with an upside down U at one of the ends to take the place of the notch and hooks fashioned to go under the tail wheel axle on either side at the center corner and you would lift at the far corner. The longer side of the triangle leg should be strong because it is in compression and the bottom two legs can be pretty small as they are in tension. Hope this doesn't bore everyone, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 1996
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Battery Box
To All... I found some sheet metal in a dumpster of a shopping center construction site from which I am going to build a battery box. It is "U" channel with a 4" width (my battery is 3" so with some padding I should be in good shape) and more than ample height. I figure I will bend the ends over and rivet them together to form a box, then caulk all the cracks with some silicon caulk. I will fasten it somehow to the front of the frame up in the nose cone. That will move my battery arm forward about another 6 or 7" and away from behind the rudder pedals for a better C.G. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 1996
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Lights?
Greetings, I've been thinking about installing lights for legal night operation in the SlingShot. Now I can't say how safe I'd feel taking off into the darkness, but I might be able to make more of my afternoon flying time if I had lights. Does anyone fly 2-strokes at night? -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Floats on MKIII and what is the gross?
Date: Dec 23, 1996
The gross weight of a MKIII is 1000 pounds, with a recommended operating weight of 800 pounds. If you keep the empty weight of your airplane down there is still enough for you and a passenger. Full Lotus inflatable floats come in a couple configurations and are widely used. There is a company in Florida that will install a amphibious landing gear that is used with a mono float. I believe that the mono float with outriggers is the lightest way to go and the float doesn't get in the way for taking pictures >---------- >From: Zachary and Carol Canright[SMTP:zzacman(at)alaska.net@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Saturday, December 21, 1996 7:58 PM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: Floats on MKIII and what is the gross? > >I live in South East Alaska where there are lots of wide open flat >spaces, unfortunately they are made of water. I saw on the Kolb demo >tape a MKIII on floats. Who makes them and are they amphibious or >straight floats? I would appreciate any insights from those who have or >are building a Kolb on floats. >What is the catch on the two gross ratings for the MKIII. Is it 750 or >???. Am in the final stages of deciding on what to build ie I finally >have the $$$$ and would appreciate any information the group has. >Thanks, Zac > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve Bennett <sab(at)toybox.ultranet.com>
Subject: RE: Lights?
Date: Dec 23, 1996
Well, I'm sure most people agree that night flying behind a two-stroke (or, in our case, in FRONT of a two-stroke) isn't the best form of risk management. But I, too, thought about equipping my Mk II for night flight, just to stretch out the evening flying hours a bit. I'd also really love to go flying on a full-moon night, which can sometimes be almost as bright as twilight. The problem I ran into was that if I wanted approval for night VFR, the local FSDO inspector insisted that a battery-only system wasn't good enough. I would have to install a charging circuit (i.e. rectifier/regulator). But then the plane would qualify as having an electrical system, which means that I would need a Mode C transponder to fly within 30 nm of Boston. An airplane like a Mk II simply wasn't intended to be transponder-equipped, and a lot of my flying is within 30 nm of Boston (under the Class B). So I don't have lights. And here's an interesting point: even though I have strobes, I don't get the extra half hour after sunset that a legal ultralight can fly. N-numbered planes, even if they're "ultralights", need lights to fly after sunset, period. Oh well. It's probably safer that way anyhow. -Steve Twinstar Mk II N614BT Cessna 172 N4381Q ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 1996
Subject: checking address
got a new computer and goofed on my address book, just checking if I got the right address for the Kolb builders network. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 1996
Subject: seatbelts
I am having a hard time figuring out the seat belts for my firestar2, they send 6 metal buckles' kinda. They each have 1 slit in them for the belt, I can not figure out for the life of me how it works. I am used to a piece that has 2 slots, you run the belt over and under through the slots in the piece then around the tube on your frame, then back under the belt in the same piece so that when you pull the belt tight it uses its own pressure to hold itself from moving. Well anyways i can't figure out the single slot pieces that Kold includes, Help. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 1996
Subject: oil injection
The but that holds the end of the cable for the oil injection pump seems to not be the correct one for my application. It seemsa to be too small and is slopy when in the oil pump, and the only thing that keeps in the is the cable itself. The small piece I have with 2 allen screws is real similar to the one used for the brake cable attachment on the cable brakes. Does anyone have any suggestions. The manual does not have a very good drawing to compare. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 1996
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: seatbelts
Tim and all... This is a really easy way to secure the straps around the frame pieces. Get you some small pieces of plastic tubing (like scraps of fuel tubing that you already have). Cut pieces exactly the width of your belt webbing. Run the webbing throught the slot and around the tube then push a loop through the slot again. Once the loop is through the slot slip in the plastic tubing to keep it from sliding back through and tighten up the webbing in the buckle. To make sure the tubing stays in place put some safety wire through the tubing and around the webbing. It works great and you can lengthen or shorten the webbing length if you leave a little tail on the webbing. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FireflyUL(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 25, 1996
Subject: Firefly builders, etc.
hi kolb people, well i bought my first UL, a Kolb firefly, any other firefly owner/builders out there with tips and help would be great. i also got the quick build option with the covering, lucky me, but would still like to hear from everyone. beau dunn USUA 59548 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 26, 1996
From: K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: seatbelts -Reply -Forwarded
Date: 12/26/1996 08:07 am (Thursday) From: K Zigaitis To: GWXSL002.GWSMTP02("striplic(at)flash.net") Subject: Re: seatbelts -Reply Cliff: The idea for working with the Kolb supplied belt buckles is the best I have seen yet. I would like to suggest one minor addition to the integrity of that application. Often time crash forces are far in excess of what one may imagine. Something that may appear to be quite functional in regular use may be marginally, if not totally, inadequate to cope with crash forces. I feel ill at ease with your suggestion of a piece of flexible tubing as the means for securing the belt in position. Under the high load in a crash that tubing may actually be able to extrude thru the slot of the buckle. Simple solution, slip on equal length of the 5/16" aluminum tubing, used throughout the aircraft, into that piece of flexible tubing. Now you could operate with much higher confidence that this restraint will not be able to pass thru the slot. Much happy flying to you in the new year! KZ Zigaitis EAA Technical Counselor MK3 Builder & many others. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 1996
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Seat Belts
To all... To correct my post of the other day as to how to fasten the ends of the straps to the fuselage tubing. Someone made the good observation that a piece of 5/16" aluminum tubing would be better than the soft plastic tubing because the soft type could be extruded through the slot and therefore the seat belts could come undone. I looked very carefully at my installation today and I have to agree that the soft tubing could conceivably be pulled through the slot under terrific loads. I am going to replace mine with the aluminum tubes. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 1996
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Change of heart
Hello all, The SlingShot covering is coming along OK and hopefully the engine and 3rd kit will be here within a couple of weeks. I've recently had reason to rethink some of the choices I've made about the plane though. I changed my in-flight adjustable prop order to a Quick-adjust IVO to save money and complexity. The extra money will be going into a BRS 900# chute (and certainly not night flying lights). The reason for this change is the recent death of a friend in a plane crash. Originally I heard that he was in his ultralight, but now it's known that he was flying his Ercoupe. He used to love to go up before sunrise to watch the sunrise, then fly over to another airport for breakfast. On this flight, it appears that he entered fog, became disoriented, and crashed. What made it hit home even harder is that I received a Christmas card from him the day after he died. I now believe that any extra chance the BRS can give me will be worth $1900. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 1996
From: Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net>
Subject: BRS
After hearing russell's story it got me thinking what recovery system I should put on my firestar II. Has anyone ever used a leading edge mount system that BRS offers, or is the canister type better? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 1996
From: stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger)
Subject: Seatbelts
While we're on the topic of seatbelts, I have been considering installing a 4 point shoulder harness in place of the standard "automobile" type seatbelt that is standard on the FireFly. (And other Kolb models, I suspect.) The Seatbelt in my FireFly chafes my neck a little bit, and doesn't "feel right". I also wonder how effective it would be in a crash. Questions that I keep asking myself are, would my head/helmet catch on it? Would my neck take a big part of the force? I suspect that a 4 point shoulder harness would be much better from a safety standpoint. Also, I immagine a 4 point would hold me in the cockpit a bit more securely. If I were to drop a wing and go into a steep bank or a spin, or hit a particularly nasty thermal or downdraft, I can see where I could move around a bit in the cockpit, lessening the control I have over the aircraft. Personally, I like a snug fit, something that will make me feel like a piece of the aircraft, rather than cargo. Does anyone have any opinions about this? Has anyone installed a 4 point? I've seen an ad in UF! for them, and the new company "To the Limit", started by "the Hurricane guy" (sorry, his name slips my memory at the moment) is offering them, and supposedly has some sale prices until the end of December. What's that, one day? I should have posted sooner. :P (I have yet to call these guys and see wether they have had any Kolb installations.) I don't think it would be a problem if there's enough belt and proper adjustment fittings. Maybe I can talk them into letting me send it back if its obvious the belt won't work... Anyway, I just wanted to know what you thought of 4 point vs. the standard 3 point, and how others have installed them. FireFly specific would be wonderful, but I should think that a FireStar or Slingshot installation would be very similar, if not identical... Well, thanks very much in advance!! -Jon- .-------------------------------------------------------------------. | Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 | | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 | | http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * | |-------------------------------------------------------------------| | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ | `-------------------------------------------------------------------' * == For Sale! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ALLENB007(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 1996
Subject: Firefly Performance
Kolb Firefly Owners, I am a new subscriber to the net, web, etc. My initial reason for joining AOL is that I have a very good friend of mine that built and owns a Firestar II and is building a Firefly for me and has been supplying me with news off the net regarding the kolb mailing list and the exchange of information. I decided that it would be best to join myself and get this information first hand. I would please like to hear from present owners of the Firefly. I am interested in your comments regarding flight characteristics, handling, things to be pleased about, things to be concerned about, in summary the good bad and ugly (if any ) of the Firefly and it's performance and anything else that is worth my knowing about. I look forward to hearing from you. For information sake, I'm a commercial Sailplane pilot and thoroughly enjoy the ultralight feeling by flying my Mitchell Wing as well as a CGS Hawk covered in Stitts. P.S. Oh, the Mitchell Wing is for sale should anyone be interested. Thanks again, AllenB007(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 1996
Subject: Re: Lights?
Very interested in your discussion of the regulator/rectifier problem and how it relates to the need for a transponder. I have never heard of a FSDO requiring some one building an aircraft in this class to get a transponder if they had an "electrical system" what ever that means in this context. In discussions I have had with folks on the problem it was always explained to me that if your plane was CERTIFIED with an electrical system you have to have a transponder, but if you plane was originally built without one you don't need it. A small distinction, but important for folks like us. Lots of luscombes and planes of that vintage didn't come with an electrical system, and it has been my understanding that if you added one later you still don't have to have a transponder. The problem underscores the need to negotiate with the MIDO guy or the DAR who signs off your plane. I have a kuntzelman hot box, facet fuel pump, strobes, key start, battery, and don't expect to be hassled by the teterboro MIDO. But you never know. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 1996
Subject: Re: Seatbelts
Here's my 2 cents on the 4 point vs 3 point harness question. I'd take the 4 point any day. I installed 4 points in my mark 3 and I think it was a good safety move. I haven't flown yet but I have oer 100 hours in a mark 2 that had the factory three point system. A proper 4 point is a better bet. Plus its a breeze to install. The connections for the shoulder harness portion just loop around the square bar of the center spar carry-through. A real strong connection and very easy to make. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 1996
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: BRS Parachutes
>Has anyone ever used a leading edge mount >system that BRS offers, or is the canister type better? I think if I were to do it over again, I would mount a canister in the aft fuselage fastened to the fuselage tube pointing down and to the right. I put mine in the wing gap seal (the no longer made 2nd Chantz soft pak)... the negatives (1) extra weight during installing and removing the gap seal (2) hooking up the hang cable and rip cord bracket (3) protecting the soft pack from water penetration and condensation (4) main wing failure with a scissors collapse the wings could cause the failure of parachute deployment (5) requires repack sooner (in my case there is no repacker)... the positives (1) looks sharp (2) no long hang cable to route (3) shoots upward initially possibly saving a few feet of altitude during deployment. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII
Date: Dec 30, 1996
I just finished installing my canister Ballistic Recovery Systems BRS5 model 1050 on my Mark III. You can see the installation in http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para05.jpg http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para06.jpg http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para07.jpg (I haven't linked the URLs yet). I rotated the rocket so it fires almost directly up, to get it further from the prop arc should I forget or be unable to shut the engine before firing. BRS has not yet made their new "VLS" model fit Kolbs. You can reach them for questions at 612 457 7491. I've been speaking with Greg there. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 1996
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Redrive and propeller selection time, recommendations?
I am trying to decide which "C" box ratio makes sense and which prop to buy to mate to the Rotax 582 for the Kolb MKiii. I have heard/read that it is a bad idea to mate a three-bladed prop to a 3:1 ratio box, due to harmonic vibrations. This makes sense to me. John at CPS recommends the Ivo 3-bladed quick adjust prop with the 3.47:1 ratio for the 582. The Ivo is available in "any" diameter. What is the largest diameter prop I can install without shimming up the engine mounts? I am guessing it might be a 68" size. Is anyone using this: 68" Ivo 3-bl, "C" box with 3.47:1 ratio, on the Rotax 582? Any recommendations for or against? Other input? Anybody recommend Warp drive props instead of Ivo? I guess I am set on using a 3-blade composite. Anybody running the Sportprop ($800!)? I finished covering the cage this weekend, I can see I saved too much paint, it is smaller than I imagined. Maybe I'll respray some thin areas on the wing tops. I've almost settled on the final paint color scheme (biggest decision of whole project). Thanks again! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 1996
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII
Scott Bentley wrote: > You can see the installation in > > http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para05.jpg > http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para06.jpg > http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para07.jpg > > I rotated the rocket so it fires almost directly up, to get it further > from the prop arc should I forget or be unable to shut the engine before > firing. > > BRS has not yet made their new "VLS" model fit Kolbs. Very nice pics Scott. Interesting to see. BRS told me that the VLS will be a 4 year repack to start with, rather than 6 years like the BRS-5. They were pushing the new model though. About a month ago, I was told to check back with them around the first of the year and they should have the VLS installation ready for Kolbs. I'll probably go with the BRS-5 though. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII
Date: Dec 30, 1996
Scott, Why did you choose to mount the chute on top rather than in the fuselage? What is the VLS model, I looked at BRS home page and all they had on it was the BRS-5? Thanks for posting pictures of your project, its great to see someone's project to inspire me to finish my MKIII. >---------- >From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Monday, December 30, 1996 11:34 AM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: Re: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII > >Scott Bentley wrote: > >> You can see the installation in >> >> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para05.jpg >> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para06.jpg >> http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/para07.jpg >> >> I rotated the rocket so it fires almost directly up, to get it further >> from the prop arc should I forget or be unable to shut the engine before >> firing. >> >> BRS has not yet made their new "VLS" model fit Kolbs. > >Very nice pics Scott. Interesting to see. BRS told me that the VLS >will be a 4 year repack to start with, rather than 6 years like the >BRS-5. They were pushing the new model though. About a month ago, I >was told to check back with them around the first of the year and they >should have the VLS installation ready for Kolbs. I'll probably go with >the BRS-5 though. > >-- >Russell Duffy >rad(at)pen.net >http://www.pen.net/~rad/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 1996
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: VLS chute
Jason and all, The VLS is a new version of recovery chute from BRS. It stands for Vertical Launch System. As far as I know, it's the same rocket and chute, but packaged in a flatter fiberglass container. It looks a little like one of those cartop luggage carriers. In fact, I'm thinking about finding one of those on a car, taping a BRS logo to it, then sending it in with my installation photos. At least we'll know how good their sense of humor is :-) -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 1996
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Stupid Fabric Tricks
Hi again, Remember when I said I had to re-cover the first horz stab because I didn't pay attention to where the outer glue seam would be? I just slapped the fabric on and it ended up on top where it didn't look good. Well, you would think I would learn from this lesson but nooooooo. Slapped the fabric on the first elevator, then realized I hadn't payed attention to the layout. Fortunately, I got lucky and this one was correct (50-50 chance). I've now left myself a note that says "pay attention". And just when you think "this guys done every stupid thing possible to waste fabric", there's more. I realized that when I layed out the control surfaces to cut the fabric, I folded the fabric over the leading edge, not the trailing edge. Since I cut it fairly close, one of the elevator pieces is too small to be done correctly. It's a good think there seems to be a bunch of extra fabric here. If I keep this up, though, I'll have to order another truckload. Geez. On the good new side of covering, everything so far, seems to have come out ok. I would have bet anything that I wouldn't be able to shrink out the extra fabric on a couple of parts of the elevator, but out the wrinkles came- like magic. Someone else recently questioned the statement in Kolbs literature about how the covering process was the most satisfying and rewarding part of the project. I tend to agree that it won't be for me either. Who writes this stuff anyway? Perhaps there isn't enough ventalation in Dennis' workshop :-0 (Oops, broke the rule. No picking on Dennis until he ships my cage and engine). Have a safe new year. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 1996
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Taxi Tests
To all... Today was really foggy at the airport where I am located. The conditions were definitely IRF. One plane departed and a helio was playing around in the pattern (showing everyone what he could do with a couple of hundred feet of visibility that ordinary airplanes could not do). Anyway, a very good day to have the whole place to myself to do my first taxi tests. I started out very slow to learn the turning radius. Not very sharp turns but if I anticipated and cut the corners a bit I could get by. The cable brakes helped to reduce speeds on down hill taxiways. I started out on grass and after one run at pretty low rpm I brought the power up enough to raise the tail (about 4000 rpm initially then back down to 3750 or a little less to hold it up with some forward stick. I had a little left cross wind and it took very little aileron to counter it. The ASI indicated around 35 to 35 plus at times. I was careful to keep the mains planted on terra firma. Making turns with some (not too much) forward speed (on grass) helped... the CG being behind the mains helping with the turn. Later I moved to the pavement. The directional control was more difficult to control and took a lot more attention to the rudder. The speeds built much faster so I lowered the rpm to about 3500 or enough to keep (just) the tail flying. My overall impression just in taxiing is that the controls are very light, sensitive and quick, especially compared to the J3 Cub I am training in now. Later on I will probably be glad that they are. Right now they seem to be a little ahead of me rather than vice versa. I don't feel prepared to do any crow hopping yet and besides that I am not legal yet (bi-ennial or tail dragger endorsement). Hopefully, all will come together at the proper time. It was a real fun day... fog and all. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve Bennett <sab(at)toybox.ultranet.com>
Subject: FW: Electrical Systems
Date: Dec 31, 1996
"Cavuontop(at)aol.com" writes: >>I have never heard of a FSDO >>requiring some one building an aircraft in this class to get a transponder if >>they had an "electrical system" what ever that means in this context. Unfortunately, "aircraft in this class" means nothing to the FAA. If you're an ultralight, you're not an aircraft (you're a "vehicle".) But if your contraption carries an N-number, then it's an aircraft, no matter whether the empty weight is 375 pounds or 375 tons. So the question becomes whether your aircraft has an electrical system or not. Again, the problem I ran into was that if I wanted lights, I had to have a battery AND an engine-driven charging system. If you read FAR 91.215, included below, it specifically calls out "engine-driven electrical system" as the qualifying factor for needing a transponder. So if I wanted lights, I needed a generator, and if I had a generator, I'd need a transponder. Keep in mind that this whole thing ONLY applies to operations inside Class C airspace (generally 10 nm around the airport), or within 30 nm of a Class B airport, or any flights above 10,000 ft. Other than that, there's no requirement for a transponder even WITH an electrical system. So I don't want to get everyone nervous. Here's the applicable FAR, with lots of boring stuff deleted: Sec. 91.215 ATC transponder and altitude reporting equipment and use. (a) All airspace: U.S.-registered civil aircraft. For operations not conducted under part 121, 127 or 135 of this chapter, ATC transponder equipment .... [blah, blah, blah...] This requirement applies-- (1) All aircraft. In Class A, Class B, and Class C airspace areas; (2) All aircraft. In all airspace within 30 nautical miles of an airport listed in appendix D, section 1 of this part from the surface upward to 10,000 feet MSL; (3) Notwithstanding paragraph (b)(2) of this section, any aircraft which was not originally certificated with an engine-driven electrical system or which has not subsequently been certified with such a system installed, balloon or glider may conduct operations in the airspace within 30 nautical miles of an airport listed in appendix D, section 1 of this part provided... [blah, blah, blah, etc, etc, etc.] ------------------ Now here's where it gets really picky, and probably subject to interpretation. Note that the reg says "not originally CERTIFICATED...or...not subsequently been CERTIFIED...". The word CERTIFICATED applies to the initial Airworthiness Certificate of a particular aircraft (or sometimes to the Type Certificate of a particular type design.) The word CERTIFIED actually applies to any subsequent approval, such as a field modification performed under a Form 337 (Major Repair or Alteration), or just a mechanic's logbook entry for a return to service. So getting back to the subject at hand: an old Luscombe might have been CERTIFICATED without an electrical system. But if one was subsequently added, the work had to have been documented on a 337 and CERTIFIED by an IA for return to service. So it would require a transponder within 30 nm of a Class B. A Kolb like mine was CERTIFICATED (via a Special Airworthiness Certificate) for day VFR only. If I add lights and an electrical system, I need to get my Airworthiness Certificate amended by the FAA to remove the "day only" restriction. Thus, if would be "subsequently CERTIFIED" and would also require the transponder. Of course, the bottom line on all this stuff is you keep asking different FAA inspectors for an official opinion, until you find the one you like! Regards, -Steve Bennett GPS Systems Engineer, Northstar Avionics ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 31, 1996
Subject: Re: Lights?
<< I'm curious to know how you set up your fuel pump. Is it in series with the pulse pump, or parallel to it? Do you run the electric all the time, or just like most GA planes (TO, landing, failure of mechanical pump)? >> Boy this a real $64,000 question. I really put alot of thought into this one and am still not sure I did the right thing because I haven't run my mark 3 yet, but here is the story: I decided I wanted to have a back up fuel pump, just like on a GA plane. But keep in mind that on the Bing carbs you don't need to presurize anything, all you have to do is keep the carb bowls full. The needle valve in the bing carb bowl is good to about 7 PSI, so obviously you don't want a pump that puts out anything like that number because it might flood the engine. Now, California Power Systems sells a facet fuel pump, but when I called them up to ask them about the specs on it I talked the three different guys who had absolutely no clue about the problems an oversized pump could cause, and even worse, no idea what the specs are for the one they sell. Their answer was to try to sell me a fuel pressure regulator. J.C Whitney sells facet pumps too. I got the one that puts out 1.5 psi. I wanted thr SMALLEST one they had. Remember, the point is to have just enough pump to push the fuel uphill to fill the bowl. I also put it in series. Parallel looks like an awfull lot of plumbing, and the specs for the Mikuni pump suggest it should be able to easily overcome any in-line resistence from the facet pump. Its all speculation at this point because I haven't flown yet, but I would welcome thoughts from others. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 31, 1996
Subject: Re: Mode C exemption
I think you did the right thing by getting your sign off with the "electrical system" not in evidence, and then going for the modification later once you had your pink airworthyness certificate. You should keep in mind however, that the form restrictions that you get from the MIDO guy usually include a paragraph that says you have to have the plane reinspected if there are "major changes" whatever that is. In my view this kind of uncertainty is a very good reason to have your plane certified by a Designated Airworthyness Representitive. You pay a little money to these guys, but because they aren't working for the FAA (usually retired) they tend not to be hostile hard ass types, and can be negotiated with. In my view I think it makes sense to comply with the rules as best you can, but alot of this stuff is very fine points. But the world has a way of making what looks like little deals to you and me into big problems. I fly out of a little grass strip that is embedded inside the 5 mile class d ring at Trenton, NJ. Commercial jets have recently started running out of Trenton and 757s often come right through the pattern. All it will take is an unawares guy in an ultralight and an airline Captain who isn't paying attention either and we'll all have to have mode C ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 1996
From: Kerry Ford <skyfox(at)dundee.net>
Subject: Re: Lights?
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > > > << I'm curious to know how you set up your fuel pump. Is it in series with > the pulse pump, or parallel to it? Do you run the electric all the > time, or just like most GA planes (TO, landing, failure of mechanical > pump)? > >> > Boy this a real $64,000 question. I really put alot of thought into this one > and am still not sure I did the right thing because I haven't run my mark 3 > yet, but here is the story: I decided I wanted to have a back up fuel pump, > just like on a GA plane. But keep in mind that on the Bing carbs you don't > need to presurize anything, all you have to do is keep the carb bowls full. > The needle valve in the bing carb bowl is good to about 7 PSI, so obviously > you don't want a pump that puts out anything like that number because it > might flood the engine. > > Now, California Power Systems sells a facet fuel pump, but when I > called them up to ask them about the specs on it I talked the three different > guys who had absolutely no clue about the problems an oversized pump could > cause, and even worse, no idea what the specs are for the one they sell. > Their answer was to try to sell me a fuel pressure regulator. J.C Whitney > sells facet pumps too. I got the one that puts out 1.5 psi. I wanted thr > SMALLEST one they had. Remember, the point is to have just enough pump to > push the fuel uphill to fill the bowl. > > I also put it in series. Parallel looks like an awfull lot of plumbing, > and the specs for the Mikuni pump suggest it should be able to easily > overcome any in-line resistence from the facet pump. Its all speculation at > this point because I haven't flown yet, but I would welcome thoughts from > others. I may be mistaken, but I do not think so. If your fuel tank is more than 3 feet below your carb, 1.5 psi will not be enough pressure to overcome gravity. You need to develop .5 psi per foot of vertical distance between the fuel source and the carb(s). Then an addition pound or two of pressure to provide positive fuel flow. I hope I am wrong, I would hate to be the one to rain on your parade, especially since you have put so much time and thought into this installation. Perhaps one of the engineering types (Ben?) here on the Kolb list can help clarify this. -Kerry J. Ford ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 1996
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pumps
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > Now, California Power Systems sells a facet fuel pump, but when I > called them up to ask them about the specs on it I talked the three different > guys who had absolutely no clue about the problems an oversized pump could > cause, and even worse, no idea what the specs are for the one they sell. > Their answer was to try to sell me a fuel pressure regulator. J.C Whitney > sells facet pumps too. I got the one that puts out 1.5 psi. I wanted thr > SMALLEST one they had. Remember, the point is to have just enough pump to > push the fuel uphill to fill the bowl. When I was ordering all my stuff, I found a Facet pump that is "approved by Rotax" (according to page 148 of the LEAF catalog). On page 151 where they list the pump (#H7278), the pressure is given as 2.5 to 4.5 psi max. > I also put it in series. Parallel looks like an awfull lot of plumbing, > and the specs for the Mikuni pump suggest it should be able to easily > overcome any in-line resistence from the facet pump. Series would be my choice as well. The two things that concern me are: 1- Can the pulse pump pull fuel through the electric pump when it isn't running? (from what you said, this sounds like it should be ok) 2- If the pulse pump fails, will the electric pump be able to push fuel through the bad pulse pump? What is the failure mode of pulse pumps?? Can you blow through them normally? After they puke? Keep in mind, I've never even touched a pulse pump. These things may never break for all I know. As far as when to run the electric, I would probably want to run it all the time. Perhaps turn it off on the ground routinely as a test to make sure the pulse pump is still working. It's my understanding that the props don't windmill on Rotax engines because of the gearbox. If I wait until the engine gets quiet to turn on the pump, I'll have to try to yank on the rope to get the engine going again. At a thousand feet or so, there may not be time for that. Better to avoid the silence, and find out about it on the ground. If you have an electric pump and a battery, wouldn't that eliminate the need for the squeeze bulb? Well, gotta end the new year by covering the second elevator and the rudder. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 31, 1996
Subject: Aux. fuel pumps
I have heard of cracked diaphrams on pulse pumps letting fuel into crankcase thru pulse line if fuel tank is above pump or it is feed with series pump . I suggest parallel setup . Duane Z. fs2 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 31, 1996
From: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu (Ray Abbruzzese)
Subject: Re: Seatbelts
Jon said: >> >> While we're on the topic of seatbelts, I have been considering >>installing a 4 point shoulder harness in place of the standard >>"automobile" type seatbelt that is standard on the FireFly. >>(And other Kolb models, I suspect.) The Seatbelt in my FireFly >>chafes my neck a little bit, and doesn't "feel right". I >>also wonder how effective it would be in a crash. Questions >>that I keep asking myself are, would my head/helmet catch on it? Yes, mine did at least once every time I flew it. >>Would my neck take a big part of the force? I suspect that a 4 >>point shoulder harness would be much better from a safety >>standpoint. I had the exact same concerns so 3 years ago I went to a 4 point harness on my FireStar. Several of the after market venders carry them for Kolbs. I think I got mine at CPS. Cost was $90 (I think). >>Also, I immagine a 4 point would hold me in the cockpit a bit more >>securely. If I were to drop a wing and go into a steep bank or a >>spin, or hit a particularly nasty thermal or downdraft, I can see >>where I could move around a bit in the cockpit, lessening the >>control I have over the aircraft. Personally, I like a snug >>fit, something that will make me feel like a piece of the >>aircraft, rather than cargo. That was my thinking, also. Now, with the 4 point I really feel like a part of the airplane. >>(I have yet to call these guys and >>see wether they have had any Kolb installations.) I don't >>think it would be a problem if there's enough belt and >>proper adjustment fittings. Maybe I can talk them into >>letting me send it back if its obvious the belt won't >>work... They should but I don't think you should have a problem. I remember it only took me 45 minutes to an hour for the complete installation and CPS (or whoever I got it from) said it would fit or they would replace it or refund the $. >> >> Anyway, I just wanted to know what you thought of 4 point >>vs. the standard 3 point, and how others have installed them. >>FireFly specific would be wonderful, but I should think that >>a FireStar or Slingshot installation would be very similar, if >>not identical... This is always one area where I think Kolb could do better on. The four point can not cost THAT much more than the three point and if not standard with the kit, I feel 4 points should AT LEAST be offered as an option. >> >> Well, thanks very much in advance!! >> >> -Jon- Your very welcome , Jon. See you in the sky! Ray Abbruzzese E-Mail at: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu Lincoln, Nebraska, USA Standard Disclaimer: These are my opinions and you all know about opinions (they are like butts, everybody has one). I could be wrong and I probably am. Just please do not sue me. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 01, 1997
Subject: Re: Kolb Fuel pump
<< I'm curious to know how you set up your fuel pump. Is it in series with the pulse pump, or parallel to it? Do you run the electric all the time, or just like most GA planes (TO, landing, failure of mechanical pump)? >> >> I've been flying my MkIII for three years with a Facet elect. pump as a back up. I purchased it at the local NAPA store. It is the one that provides 4.5 psi. I have plumbed it in paralell with the pulse pump and do not have a pressure regulator. So far no problems. I use it occasionally on takeoff from very short fields and to fill the carb bowls brfore starting after a long layoff. P. Krotje ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 1997
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Rec/Reg problem? - Fixed
Too all... A week or so ago I reported an oddity in my engine instruments. I thought I had a bad recifier/regulator. The symptoms were an apparent loss of 12 V. to the instruments and a rise in one mag (with normal drop in the other) reading during engine mag check. What had happened was a hard to find but simple disconnect of the 12V supply wire from the regulator at the fuse pig tail connection which was not crimped properly. All is well now with the Hobbs, water temp, and the tach reading with proper drop readings on each mag. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate (soon to change) Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: re: seatbelts, fuel pumps, BRS
Happy New Year everybody, I thought i'd add my 2 bits to a few of the interesting topics raised recently: 1. Seatbelts: I went w/ 4 point; bought mine from A/C Spruce, Part No. 13-01300 for $65 (3 yrs ago). It seems very nice although i have not tested it and hope not to :/ . Its latching is simple and each of the 4 straps is easily adjustable. However, I did cut off the mounting brackets and made my own, as the originals are made for bolting to a frame instead of securing to the tubular frame. Mod' was easy and let me know if you want more details. 2. Fuel Pumps... I happened to find an old "Rotax Care and Feeding/ Mike Stratman" article, this one entitled "Failsafe Fuel Delivery" (UF! August '94). He advises that if using a redundant fuel pump, as in electric plus engine pulse pump, to hook them in parallel, and that a regulator might be necessary. He says that these pumps have one-way flow features, so a failed pump will not allow return flow to the fuel tank. The article calls out a requirement for between 2.9 and 7.2 psi to the carbs, so it is odd the LEAF product "approved by rotax" is rated at 2.5-4.5 psi. I would think it a reasonable idea to get a pressure gauge and chk that you are getting ~ 5 psi to the carb before automatically just adding the pressure regulator. Another note, the article says that you can get a rebuild kit for the pulse pumps, which zero times them. I hadn't realized this and thought we just ought to buy replacement pumps at annual, at least if not using redundant pumps. BTW: someone mentioned maybe i could offer an 'engineering type' of help to the pump discussion. Sorry, but i'm a computer jock (for the Mechanical and Aeronautical Engineering department at UU Davis), not an engineer. 4. BRS: There are arguments either way for where to install it. I would agree with Cliff, that if there is any extra hassle in airplane setup due to the BRS mount inside the gap seal, that is a serious negative. BRS will argue preference for mounting the chute below the wing to fire to an aft quarter, slightly downward, and that all their tests prove this to be the best. They assume a potential structural failure and fold-up of the wings making a BRS mount on top less desirable. In a well maintained Kolb, I think this scenario is way way down in the odds, even with abusive flying. Even so, this is how i mounted mine, as I think chances of using it are nearly nil and I just didn't like the looks of the darn thing sitting anywhere outside the airplane. ...sort of like lucky dice hanging from the rear view mirror. :) The argument for mounting it above the wing is simply that the most likely scenario in which you would need it is if you have an engine failure over terrain that would yield a crash landing worse than a parachute landing. In this scenario you would set up for the crash landing in the least worse spot, and pop the chute (fires upward) just before impact, er... i mean touchdown. So, although this might be more practical (assuming you discount the probability of a wing fold), i still mounted mine inside the plane. As you think thru the BRS options, the people at BRS are very willing to help with advice. However, I think they tend to recommend a bigger weight, faster deployment chute than you need. I have minor regrets buying the 750 lbs model over the 500 lbs one (per BRS' recommendation); either one should save my hide as my gross weight is <= 500lbs. And lastly on the subject: recall that there are at least 2 incidences where BRS chute's nearly killed their pilots (coincidentally in Kolbs). These were identical mishaps where the BRS cable wasn't tie-wrapped adequately to the airplane, coming away and into the prop' during an otherwise normal flight. In both cases the prop shattered and all the forces tore the engine from it's mounts (breaking at the rotax crankcase), but by some miracle hanging on by threads to maintain CG for emergency landing(!!!). Except for looks, you couldn't over-do it on tie-wrapping that cable! And always preflight chk it. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 01, 1997
From: Don Ramsey <dramsey(at)ro.com>
Subject: Re: re: seatbelts, fuel pumps, BRS
(snip) > pressure regulator. Another note, the article says that you can > get a rebuild kit for the pulse pumps, which zero times them. I > hadn't realized this and thought we just ought to buy replacement > pumps at annual, at least if not using redundant pumps. (snip) > --------|-------- > Ben Ransom (*) > UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o > Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu > http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom My UL instructor overhauled his 503 engine's pulse fuel pump and got the gasket upside down when he was reassembling the two halves of the case. This caused the gasket to have an air leak between the two pump chambers which made the pump not work at all. He quickly determined the problem and reversed it. Unfortunately, Henry had a prospective student waiting for him to finish his maintenance. The guy was a GA pilot who wanted to try UL flying in Henry's Quicksilver MX Sprint II. The aspect of Henry doing his own aircraft maintenance and having problems must have underwhelmed him cause he left and hasn't returned. -- Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 01, 1997
Subject: Re: Lights?
Thanks to Kerry Ford on the Pump info. I think that the distance between the pump and the carb bowl is around 3 feet. I will be very interested to see how the pump works out and will report back. I've certainly been wrong before. My theory was that I realy didn't want or need much pump and that consequences of having too much could be worse than none at all. And I've had very good luck with the dual mikuni. Its just that my GA orientation makes me think I should have the redundancy. I think the best bet may be to rebuild the mikuni at every annual inspection and hope you never have to count on the facet. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: BRS Mounting/VLS Model Availability
Date: Jan 02, 1997
I received a brochure from BRS on their VLS model in May, soon after I received my Mark III kit. At the time they told me it would certainly be ready for Kolb installation by August. In August they said November. In November they said not until January... So that's why the canister model. I never really considered an in-the-fuselage mounting of the parachute, though I did see drawings of this when I received the parachute. In order to do this, you have to decide before covering the cage, which I did over the summer. Keep in mind this pushes the CG aft compared to the overhead mounting. Russell answered the VLS question in a different message. I'm not surprised that BRS's home page is out of date. They said they were unable to view my pictures as their modem was too slow... >---------- >From: Jason Omelchuck[SMTP:jason(at)acuityinc.com] >Sent: Monday, December 30, 1996 4:02 PM >To: 'Kolb builders' >Subject: FW: My BRS5 1050 model parachute on MKIII > >Scott, Why did you choose to mount the chute on top rather than in the >fuselage? What is the VLS model, I looked at BRS home page and all they >had on it was the BRS-5? Thanks for posting pictures of your project, >its great to see someone's project to inspire me to finish my MKIII. > ... >> >>Very nice pics Scott. Interesting to see. BRS told me that the VLS >>will be a 4 year repack to start with, rather than 6 years like the >>BRS-5. They were pushing the new model though. About a month ago, I >>was told to check back with them around the first of the year and they >>should have the VLS installation ready for Kolbs. I'll probably go with >>the BRS-5 though. >> >>-- >>Russell Duffy >>rad(at)pen.net >>http://www.pen.net/~rad/ >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 02, 1997
From: stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger)
Subject: Altimiter Advice?
I bought my FireFly from the original owner, already fully built. The altimeter is a 0-5500ft, single pointer jobbie with a Kollsman window and is resettable to any altitude. Unfortunately, this means that each increment on the face of the altimeter represents 100 feet, rather than the traditional 20 feet. I'd like to get something more accurate. I've been paging through the latest issue of Ultralight Flying! and the selection of altimeters is a little confusing. They ranged in price from $300 to $185. Some could be zeroed at any altitude, others couldn't. (seemed like the ones with the Kollsman windows couldn't be zeroed for some reason, even though mine can). After thinking about it for a while, I figured that the zeroing feature wasn't really all that important. I think the only thing it would be good for is to mark the altitude of your home strip. If you fly anywhere else, the ground isn't going to be at 0 anymore, it'll be higher or lower than where you started... Also, it would be difficult to determine my true altitude (MSL) as is nescessary when using a sectional. Based on those factors, I don't care wether it can be reset or not. Unless someone can point out a compelling reason that I'm overlooking? Is the Kollsman window actually good for anything? I realize that it is the barometric pressure in inches of mercury, but do I need to know that at any time? In one ad, the description said that this particular altimeter used pressure to calculate altitude, and needed no external hookups. I was under the impression that all altimeters were like this. Apparently not, eh? What would you need to hook to an altimeter to get it to work? Also, what make/model of altimeter would you suggest? Any particular distributors or mail order places you'd recommend? Obviously, I'd like something as inexpensive as possible, but I do want something reasonably accurate and well made. Thanks very much in advance! -Jon- .-------------------------------------------------------------------. | Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 | | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 | | http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * | |-------------------------------------------------------------------| | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ | `-------------------------------------------------------------------' * == For Sale! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 1997
From: stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon N. Steiger)
Subject: Seatbelts: thanks!
Thanks very much to Ray, Cliff, Cavuontop(at)aol.com, (and anyone else I may have missed) for their extremely helpful answers and insights about my seatbelt query. I will definitely upgrade the stock Kolb 3 point to a 4 point. Now I just need to get on the phone and figure out which one. ;) Thanks again! -Jon- .-------------------------------------------------------------------. | Jon Steiger | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8 | | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu | '96 Kolb FireFly 447 | | http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ | '91 Yamaha FZR600R * | |-------------------------------------------------------------------| | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ | `-------------------------------------------------------------------' * == For Sale! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1997
Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
Jon, > Also, what make/model of altimeter would you suggest? Any particular > distributors or mail order places you'd recommend? Obviously, I'd > like something as inexpensive as possible, but I do want something > reasonably accurate and well made. > Another less-pricey (about $114) choice may be the Avotech watch which is advertised in a couple of the UL distributor ads. My wife gave me one for Christmas a couple of years ago and it has all sorts of aviation features, an altimeter included. However, it is somewhat difficult to alternate between the features while flying so I never used it. Recently I decided to check its accuracy as an altimeter since I will need an altimeter for a Sky Pup that I'm building. While flying my Spitfire and comparing the watch's digital altimeter readout against my Taskem digital altimeter, I was pleasantly surprised to see the 10-foot readings change exactly the same. I plan to use the Avotech watch as my new altimeter and possibly try the VSI feature next. For me, other advantages of the watch are that it uses no instrument panel space (no 3" dia. required), isn't exposed to the airframe vibrations, and is moveable from one UL to another. BTW, this altimeter is resetable and has a barometric feature, for whatever use that is. If you need to know more about the full features, I could dig out the instructions and give you a more complete listing. Hope this helps. Charlie Kirtland ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 1997
From: "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the purchase of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything small and don't typically use them when flying. So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close. Any comments would be appreciated, Ron B On Fri, 3 Jan 1997 Ulflyer(at)aol.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 06:57:48 -0500 > From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice? > > Jon, > > > > Also, what make/model of altimeter would you suggest? Any particular > > distributors or mail order places you'd recommend? Obviously, I'd > > like something as inexpensive as possible, but I do want something > > reasonably accurate and well made. > > > Another less-pricey (about $114) choice may be the Avotech watch which is > advertised in a couple of the UL distributor ads. My wife gave me one for > Christmas a couple of years ago and it has all sorts of aviation features, an > altimeter included. However, it is somewhat difficult to alternate between > the features while flying so I never used it. Recently I decided to check its > accuracy as an altimeter since I will need an altimeter for a Sky Pup that > I'm building. While flying my Spitfire and comparing the watch's digital > altimeter readout against my Taskem digital altimeter, I was pleasantly > surprised to see the 10-foot readings change exactly the same. I plan to use > the Avotech watch as my new altimeter and possibly try the VSI feature next. > > For me, other advantages of the watch are that it uses no instrument panel > space (no 3" dia. required), isn't exposed to the airframe vibrations, and is > moveable from one UL to another. BTW, this altimeter is resetable and has a > barometric feature, for whatever use that is. If you need to know more about > the full features, I could dig out the instructions and give you a more > complete listing. > > Hope this helps. > > Charlie Kirtland > "You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ] < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rallynq(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 03, 1997
Subject: Re: Electric Fuel Pump
Put fuel pump in paralell at bottom of tank or lower with takeoff from bottom of tank. This should work. Mike Alexander ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Death and Taxes
Hello again, I just talked to another builder in Florida who warned me to check into the state tax situation for experimental aircraft. As it turns out, I owe 6% state tax on the purchase price of the kit and components that were ordered. This will amount to a little over $700 in my case which is bad, but not as bad as it would have been. It seems that the FAA sends the state a record of the aircraft registration sometime after it's completed. The state then checks to see if you've paid your taxes. If not, they send you a bill for the tax, interest, and some mandatory penalty (for not paying voluntarily I guess). Of course, this is only how Florida does it. If you're going to register your plane, It might be wise to make a couple of phone calls to your state revenue office to make sure you're not going to get stuck. I'm afraid this was the final straw for my BRS. No way I can afford it now. Oddly enough, this is almost a relief. And speaking of BRS chutes, someone (Will Uribe I think) told me about a Beyond 2000 episode back in November that showed a BRS in use. I've kept an eye on the Discovery channel schedule and noticed that they'll be showing that episode again on January 28th at 6:00 PM eastern. Also, for anyone looking to purchase a BRS, they'll have an annual price increase on Feb 1st. They didn't say how much. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 03, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Death and Taxes
On Fri, 3 Jan 1997, Russell Duffy wrote: > I just talked to another builder in Florida who warned me to check into > the state tax situation for experimental aircraft. As it turns out, I > owe 6% state tax on the purchase price of the kit and components that > were ordered. This will amount to a little over $700 in my case which > is bad, but not as bad as it would have been. It seems that the FAA > sends the state a record of the aircraft registration sometime after > it's completed. The state then checks to see if you've paid your taxes. > If not, they send you a bill for the tax, interest, and some mandatory > penalty (for not paying voluntarily I guess). I presume this is a property tax? In California a registered airplane gets a property tax assessent every year. An ultralight vehicle is free, and of course incurs no sales tax if purchased outside of CA. Seems lousy that the trade-off ends up to be between revenue to Florida versus a safety device, but that's life. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us>
Date: Jan 03, 1997
Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
Hello, > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the purchase > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything > small and don't typically use them when flying. > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close. Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't that bad then you may be able too. The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate. Hope this helps, Brandon | Kolb | - - - - Mark III [][]-| - - - - N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us (_____________//----------------\^ / o ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1997
From: "Ron Blaylock" <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to have to head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone at the Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself. Most respondants said they could read it if their close range vision wasn't too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one. Best regards, Ron B. -------- Begin Included Message ------- > Hello, > > > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the purchase > > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything > > small and don't typically use them when flying. > > > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is > > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use > > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close. > > Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and > easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals > and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't > that bad then you may be able too. > > The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate. > > Hope this helps, > Brandon > > | > Kolb | - - - - > Mark III [][]-| - - - - > N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" > Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey > . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. > . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us > (_____________//----------------\^ > / o > ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 > > -------- End Included Message -------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard May" <richardm(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
Date: Jan 04, 1997
What are you guys refering to here? ---------- > From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> > To: bkearbey ; kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice? > Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 10:22 AM > > Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to have to > head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone at the > Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself. > > Most respondants said they could read it if their close range vision wasn't > too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one. > > Best regards, > > Ron B. > -------- Begin Included Message ------- > > > Hello, > > > > > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the purchase > > > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything > > > small and don't typically use them when flying. > > > > > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is > > > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use > > > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close. > > > > Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and > > easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals > > and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't > > that bad then you may be able too. > > > > The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate. > > > > Hope this helps, > > Brandon > > > > | > > Kolb | - - - - > > Mark III [][]-| - - - - > > N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" > > Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey > > . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. > > . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us > > (_____________//----------------\^ > > / o > > ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 > > > > > -------- End Included Message -------- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 1997
From: "Ron Blaylock" <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
kolb(at)intrig.com
Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
The Avocet Altimeter Watch. -------- Begin Included Message ------- > What are you guys refering to here? > > ---------- > > From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> > > To: bkearbey ; kolb(at)intrig.com > > Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice? > > Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 10:22 AM > > > > Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to have to > > head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone at the > > Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself. > > > > Most respondants said they could read it if their close range vision > wasn't > > too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one. > > > > Best regards, > > > > Ron B. > > -------- Begin Included Message ------- > > > > > Hello, > > > > > > > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the > purchase > > > > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything > > > > small and don't typically use them when flying. > > > > > > > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is > > > > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use > > > > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close. > > > > > > Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and > > > easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals > > > and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't > > > that bad then you may be able too. > > > > > > The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate. > > > > > > Hope this helps, > > > Brandon > > > > > > | > > > Kolb | - - - - > > > Mark III [][]-| - - - - > > > N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" > > > Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey > > > . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. > > > . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us > > > (_____________//----------------\^ > > > / o > > > ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 > > > > > > > > -------- End Included Message -------- > > > -------- End Included Message -------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard May" <richardm(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Trade Quicksilver for Kolb
Date: Jan 04, 1997
I think I might like a Kolb. I have a MXLII Sport w/503 that I would like to trade for one. I guestimate the value of my plane around $6500. If you know anyone who might be interrested, please send them my way. I live in Northern California. \\\|/// \\ - - // Rich ( @ @ ) Diana ---------------oOOo-(_)-oOOo-------------- Richard J. & Diana C. May Quicksilver Ultralight Flight Center Dealer for Quicksilver, BRS, and Full Lotus Floats http://www.geocities.com/thetropics/3053 richardm(at)snowcrest.net -----------------------Oooo--------------------- oooO ( ) ( ) ) / \ ( (_/ \_) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard May" <richardm(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice?
Date: Jan 04, 1997
I thought you guys were refering to that watch. I have one. Love it! It works great. It does everything you can possibly think of. In fact, I still have not figured everything out that it does. I love it. It really works nice in my ultralight. \\\|/// \\ - - // Rich ( @ @ ) Diana ---------------oOOo-(_)-oOOo-------------- Richard J. & Diana C. May Quicksilver Ultralight Flight Center Dealer for Quicksilver, BRS, and Full Lotus Floats http://www.geocities.com/thetropics/3053 richardm(at)snowcrest.net -----------------------Oooo--------------------- oooO ( ) ( ) ) / \ ( (_/ \_) ---------- > From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> > To: Richard May ; bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us; kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice? > Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 5:48 PM > > The Avocet Altimeter Watch. > > > -------- Begin Included Message ------- > > > What are you guys refering to here? > > > > ---------- > > > From: Ron Blaylock <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> > > > To: bkearbey ; kolb(at)intrig.com > > > Subject: Re: Altimiter Advice? > > > Date: Saturday, January 04, 1997 10:22 AM > > > > > > Thnks for all the input to this question. I suppose I'm going to have to > > > head for the "Pilot Shop" and actually look at one or find someone at the > > > Lodi, CA airport that has one so I can take a look for myself. > > > > > > Most respondants said they could read it if their close range vision > > wasn't > > > too bad. I'll let you know my opinion if I purchase one. > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > > > Ron B. > > > -------- Begin Included Message ------- > > > > > > > Hello, > > > > > > > > > Uh... Can I ask a simple question? I have been avoiding the > > purchase > > > > > of the Avocet watch simply because I need bifocals to read anything > > > > > small and don't typically use them when flying. > > > > > > > > > > So, I was just wondering is the ALTITTUDE part of the watch is > > > > > readable by those of us that are getting older and need to use > > > > > bifocals to see small stuff or stuff up close. > > > > > > > > Well, I don't wear bifocals, but the altimeter numbers are large and > > > > easy to read. The numbers are about 3/8" tall. My dad has bifocals > > > > and he can't read it too well without bifocals. If your eyes aren't > > > > that bad then you may be able too. > > > > > > > > The Avocet watch is pretty easy to use and quite acurate. > > > > > > > > Hope this helps, > > > > Brandon > > > > > > > > | > > > > Kolb | - - - - > > > > Mark III [][]-| - - - - > > > > N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" > > > > Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey > > > > . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. > > > > . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us > > > > (_____________//----------------\^ > > > > / o > > > > ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 > > > > > > > > > > > -------- End Included Message -------- > > > > > > -------- End Included Message -------- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jbv174(at)lemars.ia.frontiercomm.net
Date: Jan 05, 1997
Subject: Catalog-Kolb Ultralights
Gentlemen. Have rec'd information from you in the past. Need to update since this was a few tears ago. Please forward via regular post to: John Valentine, 631 4th. Ave S.E. Lemars Iowa. 51031 Many thanks. (__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and (oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the /-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an / | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was * ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it ^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world. Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jbv174(at)lemars.ia.frontiercomm.net
Date: Jan 05, 1997
Subject: Catalog-Kolb Ultralights
Gentlemen. Have rec'd information from you in the past. Need to update since this was a few tears ago. Please forward via regular post to: John Valentine, 631 4th. Ave S.E. Lemars Iowa. 51031 Many thanks. (__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and (oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the /-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an / | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was * ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it ^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world. Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 05, 1997
Subject: Re: Death and Taxes
Keep in mind that there is a BIG difference between evading and avoiding taxes. When I got my tax notice from the PA tax people I called them up and said "Hey, what the heck is this?" The guy at the other end of the line said "Well, we heard from the FAA that you just registered an Airplane, it must have cost you something, so you must owe us some tax." I said "Hey, I'm building this airplane from scratch, and I'm not even finished" The guy said "Oh." I went on. "It's just a pile of tubes in my basement, I don't know if I'll ever finish it, what with my brain cancer all." "Gee, sorry about that," said the guy. "I buy all the parts that the plans say to down at the hardware store, and I pay a BIG SALES TAX on the pieces there, what isn't that enough!!?" I yelled. "I just put in for the registration number with the FAA, it doesn't mean there is a real airplane to go with it." "Never thought of that," said the tax guy. "Jeez," I said, "are you trying to tax my fantasies, I just sit in the welded cage and make airplane noises!!!!" The guy apoloigised and I never heard from them again. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 05, 1997
From: Cliff & Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)flash.net>
Subject: Twin Engined Kolb
To All... (snip) ...and a restored Kolb Flier Twin. I agreed to test fly it when they finally finished rebuilding it. It's the one with two pusher engines, one mounted on each side of the cockpit cage. It will obviously have asymetrical thrust when I shut one down. Has anyone out there flown one? I'm curious to know if there is a Vmc problem before stall. We're closing in on finishing it and I'll test fly it by the end of the month. It would be interesting to talk with anyone who has any experience flying one. I read this off the news reader tonight . A twin engined Kolb? I sent an e-mail to him suggesting he contact Dennis S. I also though many of you might find this at least an interesting idea. Later, Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC striplic(at)flash.net She - Dallas Residential real estate (soon to change) Both - R/V travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 07, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: aileron counterweight
Greetings, Does anyone remember the spacing of the aileron counterweight from the wing tip tube? It's not in the plans that I have so far, and I haven't been able to reach Dennis about it. I'll probably go ahead and cover the ailerons while I'm waiting for the cage, but I have to install the CW first. In other news, I stumbled across a great deal on a hanger. The guy I sold my RV-6 project to, just bought a lot on a 2500 ft private grass strip. He just finished a 50 X 50 hanger and told me I'm welcome to keep the SlingShot there for $50 a month. It is located about a mile inside of Eglin Air Force base restricted airspace so you have to maintain 700 ft or below until you are clear. After that, no overlying airspace at all. What a deal. Remember my BRS saga? How could you forget right? First I didn't want it, then I did, then I couldn't afford it... Well, I still can't afford it, but nevertheless, I ordered the 900# canister yesterday. Now I get to agonize over something else for a change. Thanks for all your patience in this matter. Later, -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 07, 1997
From: Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com>
Subject: Pencil Marks on aluminum
What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this simple issue. I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am sure there are others to be discovered. BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November and I want to paint the plane this early summer. ######################################################################### Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923 Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552 Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431 ######################################################################### ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: "Madeleine Volum" <MVolum(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum
Like you, that surprised me a little as well. Jumbo jets have a high aluminum content - think the FAA may add pencils to the list of hazardous materials not allowed on board? I'm no expert, so I played safe and am using felt tip markers on my Mk III, but in case it may be of help, I did find something that takes off all sorts of markings quite well. It's called "Goo Gone" and sold in some hardware stores. (Then again, for all I know, Goo Gone may have been what brought down TWA!) Happy Building, Peter Volum Miami, FL ---------- From: owner-kolb(at)www.intrig.com on behalf of Ron Hoyt Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 1997 6:02 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Pencil Marks on aluminum What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this simple issue. I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am sure there are others to be discovered. BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November and I want to paint the plane this early summer. ######################################################################### Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923 Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552 Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431 ######################################################################### ________________________________________________________________________________ (/\##/\ Smail3.1.30.16 #30.136) with smtp
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: jbidle(at)airmail.net (Jerry Bidle)
Subject: RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum
Oops, pencil marks were found to cause cracks on wings components, like the spars on B-52 bombers according to our EAA technical counselors. It therefore has become the practice in the industry not to use pencils to mark deminisions, rather use soft tip felt pens/markers. Pens which leave scribe marks are also bad. I found Sharpies don't work well for long. The best one I found is a German made pen called Stabilo-OHPen96P. They have a redish pink body, come in a varity of colors, with the top and cap reflecting the color. I found the permanent fine tip to be the best. Theres also a Pilot that's not too bad but they do not last nearly as long as the Germen pen. They'll hit you around $1.15-$1.50 a piece. >Like you, that surprised me a little as well. Jumbo jets have a high aluminum >content - think the FAA may add pencils to the list of hazardous materials not >allowed on board? > >I'm no expert, so I played safe and am using felt tip markers on my Mk III, >but in case it may be of help, I did find something that takes off all sorts >of markings quite well. It's called "Goo Gone" and sold in some hardware >stores. > >(Then again, for all I know, Goo Gone may have been what brought down TWA!) > >Happy Building, > >Peter Volum >Miami, FL > >---------- >From: owner-kolb(at)www.intrig.com on behalf of Ron Hoyt >Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 1997 6:02 PM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: Pencil Marks on aluminum > >What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the >fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to >aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What >environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes >the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more >damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this >simple issue. > > >I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in >marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am >sure there are others to be discovered. > >BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components >ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November >and I want to paint the plane this early summer. > > >######################################################################### >Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923 >Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552 >Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com >Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431 >######################################################################### > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JBallen96(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 08, 1997
Subject: Building Board
I'm interested in what platform to use to build a FireStar II. I have a 2 car garage with a 4'x14' work bench I built my TEAM MiniMax on and was wondering if that would be sufficient or would it be better to set up saw horses. Any advice? Thanks Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: "Ron B." <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
Subject: RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum
It's an interesting subject and you never know what might happen. Years ago an aircraft mechanic in the Navy won a couple of awards for saving the Navy a lot of money by suggesting they use 409 cleaner instead of the commerical cleaner the Navy was using to clean the rotor blades on the compressor section of jet engines. It seems they used it for quite a few years until it was discovered that it caused corrosion on the compressor blades that led to several compressor failures. So, pencils... only the aircraft inspectors know for sure but I've never ACTUALLY heard of it causing a problem. I could be wrong because my structural training was a very, very long time ago. Ron B. On Wed, 8 Jan 1997, Madeleine Volum wrote: > Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 04:53:54 UT > From: Madeleine Volum <MVolum(at)msn.com> > To: Kolb builder group - all members > Subject: RE: Pencil Marks on aluminum > > Like you, that surprised me a little as well. Jumbo jets have a high aluminum > content - think the FAA may add pencils to the list of hazardous materials not > allowed on board? > > I'm no expert, so I played safe and am using felt tip markers on my Mk III, > but in case it may be of help, I did find something that takes off all sorts > of markings quite well. It's called "Goo Gone" and sold in some hardware > stores. > > (Then again, for all I know, Goo Gone may have been what brought down TWA!) > > Happy Building, > > Peter Volum > Miami, FL > > ---------- > From: owner-kolb(at)www.intrig.com on behalf of Ron Hoyt > Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 1997 6:02 PM > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Pencil Marks on aluminum > > What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the > fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to > aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What > environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes > the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more > damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this > simple issue. > > > I just reread the KOLB manual and saw the warning not to use pencils in > marking the aluminum. I have erased all the marks that I found, but I am > sure there are others to be discovered. > > BTW I am building the MARK III and have all the tail feather components > ready to assemble to the fuselage tube. This project started mid November > and I want to paint the plane this early summer. > > > ######################################################################### > Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923 > Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552 > Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com > Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431 > ######################################################################### > "You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ] < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: sawhorses vs bench
When starting the Mkiii, I called Dennis and asked if a nice big bench was an advantage over sawhorses. He said that most builders have good luck with sawhorses. I then built a couple saw-oxen, with a top member made from 2x8 and hand-planed flat, long enough to support the leading and trailing edges. This worked out great. I followed the plans and did all the top rivetting but when it said I could flip the wing over to do the remaining rivetting, I did not flip it, and actually did the majority of the remaining rivets upside down. This was made comfortably possible by using one of those folding beach chairs, the kind with no legs. It was quite comfortable and productive because I could just arrange all the tools around me on the floor, within reach from the chair. The pneumatic rivetter also makes this easier. Make sure to level the two horses the same before you start, and check it often thru the process. My wings came out very flat, I can detect no twist or warp, except that which was added when the shrinking fabric bent one trailing edge upward 1/2", at the tip, much to my disappointment. If you have a nice flat bench, I bet that would work too. Have fun, Jim. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: Panel Details
Date: Jan 08, 1997
I plan to use a vertical card directional finder compass on my Mark III, with a bent Lexan bracket I built Monday night. You can see the compass and bracket on: http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/drctfnd.jpg The current (and, I hope, fairly final) state of my panel is available on: http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/panel197.jpg Note I have the Grand Rapids EIS with Fuel Flow option (and the warning light mounted on the top section of the panel. In addition, I have an altimeter, airspeed, and VSI. I used the larger size for everything and mounted no switches due to the distance from my eyes and hands when strapped in. The controls I plan to mount in the gap seal. (http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/image09.jpg). Any comments or advice is appreciated. The two new pictures, in "mykolbmk3", I took using an Olympus D-300L (see: http://www.olympusamerica.com/digital/products/300L/300L.html) Note that this has higher resolution than my previous Kodak D25 >pictures. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: manliker(at)uiuc.edu (Mark Anliker)
Subject: Re: Building Board
>I'm interested in what platform to use to build a FireStar II... Jim, I asked almost the very same question about a month ago. I kept the responses (about 6) I received and will forward them to you (not the group) in a separate message, so as to not unnecessarily occupy bandwidth. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Building Board & Sharpies
On Wed, 8 Jan 1997 JBallen96(at)aol.com wrote: > I'm interested in what platform to use to build a FireStar II. I have a 2 > car garage with a 4'x14' work bench I built my TEAM MiniMax on and was > wondering if that would be sufficient or would it be better to set up saw > horses. Any advice? > Thanks Jim Jim, I used a 4x8 foot workbench. It's only problems were sometimes having to lean over to the middle for awhile -- this being a pain in the back. Saw horses would allow you to work easily in the middle of a wing. I suppose also that saw horses would allow you to rivet from underneath, although I don't remember this being too necessary. A 4x14 workbench takes up enf of a 2 car garage that you might eventually be space constrained as the finished parts add up. So, after mentioning the negatives of the large workbench, I'd still start out with it and just add saw horses later if you find they might be helpful. The 14' length will be nice for holding the spindly ailerons straight. BTW, as i got to the later parts of my FS construction I cut away part of my 4x8 workbench to make more garage space. Somebody mentioned they didn't like Sharpies for marking AL, and preferred some other permanent felt marker. I found the opposite; I liked the Sharpies a lot and think the permanent markers are a pain to remove the ink before covering ...the permanent mark will show thru the fabric, although probably not thru most paint colors. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom (916) 752-1834 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com>
Subject: Re: Pencil Marks on aluminum
>Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 10:51:24 -0600 >To: rpike(at)preferred.com (Richard Pike) >From: Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com> >Subject: Re: Pencil Marks on aluminum > >>>What is the Practical Impact of pencil marks left on aluminum tubing in the >>>fabrication of a component such as a rudder? I know carbon is corrosive to >>>aluminum, but how much carbon is involved in a pencil mark?. What >>>environment is required to enable corrosion? Even if the carbon corrodes >>>the aluminum it is only on the surface and the amount can hardily do more >>>damage than a slight scratch? Is there more esoteric implications in this >>>simple issue. >>> >> Ron, as I understand it, leaving carbon marks on aluminum in high >>stress areas can cause a fracture potential over a long period of time. Have >>not ever actually heard of this happening but that is the reason it is verboten. >> Good luck on getting covered and painted by summer, mine took a bit >>longer. >> BTW, there is a cheap way to really beef up the ailerons on the >>MKIII. You have probably noticed that there is a bit of flex at the end of >>the aileron by the wing tip due to flex or give in the piano hinge.(I >>checked the factory's MKIII, it flexes). As luck would have it , the >>stainless steel L hinges that are used for the front of the stabilizer are >>just the right distance from the mounting surface edge to the pivot hole >>that they are on the same pivot axis as the piano hinge. So if you buy 8 >>extra ones, 4 per side, installed just like on the stabilizer, you can put >>them out by your wing tip to totally eliminate aileron flex. I installed >>mine with 3/16 stainless rivits . >> Richard Pike >> Technical Counselor EAA Chapter 442 >> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops) >> >Thanks for the reply. I like the aileron mod. It should be easy. I have eliminated all the obvious marks but worry about others. ######################################################################### Ron Hoyt Phone: (612) 921-6923 Principal Engineer FAX: (612) 921-6552 Systems Engineering e-mail: r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com Computing Devices International, 8800 Queen Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55431 ######################################################################### ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Building Board
I used a 4 X 8 table on the SlingShot wings and tail. It worked fine, but I also went to great pains to make sure it was flat and level. I haven't tried the sawhorse method, but I can't see how it would be much if any improvement. If your current bench is flat (level doesn't really matter), I'd use it. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 08, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Building Board
> I used a 4 X 8 table on the SlingShot wings and tail. It worked fine, > but I also went to great pains to make sure it was flat and level. I > haven't tried the sawhorse method, but I can't see how it would be much > if any improvement. If your current bench is flat (level doesn't really > matter), I'd use it. > I'm known for getting picky now and then, so here goes... I'd recommend you look for dips or rises in a flat workbench by pulling a fishing line tight, and standing it off with a toothpick at each end. If, looking along the fishing line you see a distance from the "flat" workbench greater or less than the toothpick width, then maybe it isn't flat. Maybe you don't need a tolerence of 1/16th flatness over 8 or 14 foot lengths, but the fishing line method will show you to that kind of accuracy. I never depended on my workbench for flatness... instead I used shims as I built parts instead. See http://mae/~ransom/build/3aileron.html if interested. Then also, I'm sure Rusty would probably be able to provide further info on the methods he used to make sure his table was flat enf. I'm guessing that the biggest disadvantage of the sawhorses is just that they are not as solid and may periodically need to be recalibrated for level and no twist. I've heard of others epoxying them to the floor once calibrated ...good idea i think, and also, assuming they are *sturdy* horses. guess i've beat this one to death --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JBallen96(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1997
Subject: Building Board Advice
To all that responded, thanks for all the good advice. I think I'll go with my table . Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1997
Kolb Mailing List
From: David Hempy <hempy(at)ket.org>
Subject: 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar
The Bluegrass Ultralight Group is proud to announce the... 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar Saturday January 25, 1997 in Lexington, KY The singular purpose of this seminar is to promote the safety of every ultralight pilot in and around Kentucky. Newcomers to the sport and old pros are encouraged to attend. General Aviation pilots will learn more about a facet of aviation that may be new to them. This seminar is one of the ways Kentucky aviators are working to reinforce the image of safety conscious ultralight pilots to the general public and other aviation entities. (Excuse the crude formatting...To see this message in all its original glory, check out: http://www.dl.ket.org/staff/dhempy/seminar.htm Hey, webmasters! Please add a link to this page from your event calendars! -dave) ====================================================================== Featured Presentations: Brian Collins -- Master of Ceremonies Frank Beagle -- The Evolution of Ultralights "The Voice of OshKosh" An exploration of ultralights from the days of unpowered hang gliders and the first attempts of adding power, to the little airplanes we call modern ultralights. Frank will guide us through this voyage, with an emphasis on the evolution of safety in ultralighting. Roger Mann -- Wood Construction Ragwing Manufacturer Mark Smith -- Rotax Inspection without Tools Rotax Service Technician Manufacturer of parts for Quicksilvers BFI Mark will teach the essentials of good pre-purchase inspections and maintenance inspections. He will diagnose several Rotax motors without turning a single bolt, and then open the motors up to see how well he did. We'll bring the soap, as you will get your hands dirty on this one! Jim Stephenson -- Weight & Balance (and Surprises!) CEO of ASC BFI Engineer Basics of Weight & Balance CG range is limited Weight & Balance affects stability Ultralights are the same...only different There are issues There are surprises Jim's presentation will show why it is important to understand Weight & Balance and that it can be simple. Finally, he will show you opportunities to use Weight & Balance to your advantage. K. Z. Zigatis -- First Flight BFI The final session of the day will be a panel Q&A period. All our speakers (and other experts) will field questions from the audience, on any topic relating to the safety of the sport. ====================================================================== When: Saturday, May 11, 1996 Registration: 8:00-8:45 AM Seminar: 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM Where: Lexington, Kentucky KET Building -- 600 Cooper Drive (behind the UK Football Stadium) >From any Lexington exit, follow the signs to the University of Kentucky campus. From campus, head south on South Limestone street or Rose street. 1/4 mile south of campus, turn left on Cooper Drive. Two and a half blocks later, you'll see KET on the right, just past Commonwealth Football Stadium and LCC. Group rates are available at Campbell House Inn (800-432-9254 in KY, 800-354-9235 USA) if you mention the "Bluegrass Ultralight Group". There are several budget hotels near the interstate, but none close to the seminar. For those who will be in town Friday evening, stop by the lounge at the Campbell House for social hour. Plan on some more fun Saturday evening as well...find out where at the seminar! Cost: This seminar is free and open to the public. Donations are recommended, as they go directly to covering the hotel expenses of the speakers and the cost of presenting the seminar. Lunch tickets will be on sale during registration only (8:00-8:45AM). Who: This seminar is presented by the Bluegrass Ultralight Group. BUG is a state-wide group made up of EAA provisional ultralight chapter #74, USUA club #83, and independent BUG members. This seminar is made possible by the generous support of the sponsors listed below. Please patronize and thank these groups. Freebies: BUG will be giving away many dozens of the prizes at the seminar. Last year, not a single person walked away empty handed. Our sponsors have provided countless T-shirts, videos, books, catalogs, hats, and magazines. We have several major prizes, including aircraft plans, a decorative propeller clock, windsocks, demo rides, and more. All these will be raffled off to help cover the speaker's expenses costs of the seminar. Literature from manufacturers, national organizations, flight schools, and others will be available. Instead of ordering Info Packs for five to ten dollars a pop, bring a sack to carry home all the wish-lists you'll pick up here for free! Sponsors: The companies and people below are real heros for this seminar. Without their support, this seminar would not be possible. We urge you to patronize these companies. When you do, let them know how much you appreciate them supporting the Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar. They will feel good hearing it from you. Each of the presenters (Our very biggest sponsors!) Green Sky Adventures TEAM Aircraft Commtronics Tennessee Propellers Lockwood Aviation ASC ULTRAflight LEAF USUA Ultralight Flying! Flightstar Titan Aircraft Air Command Gyrocopters Innovation Engineering Bing Carburetors ...and several other last-minute supporters. BUG would like to take this time to especially thank all of our industry sponsors. It is heartwarming to be in a community that cares so much about the safety of its pilots this much. If your company is interested in becoming a sponsor, we would be delighted to distribute your materials and raffle off any prizes you choose to send. Casey Stiles can answer any questions concerning sponsorship: Casey Stiles - (606)734-2032 460 Palisades Rd Harrodsburg, KY 40330 More Info: For more information about the seminar, contact: Alan Laymon 606-734-5965 (days) kyultralight(at)juno.com David Hempy, 606-258-7164 (evenings) hempy(at)ket.org So tell you flying buddies, and make plans to be there. Do you know a General Aviation pilot who is interested in ultralights, but doesn't think they are safe? Bring 'em along and prove 'em wrong! Fly safe, -dave -- David Hempy Kentucky Educational Television Database Administrator/WWW programmer Distance Learning Division http://www.dl.ket.org/staff/dhempy/ (c)1997 KET, Inc. and/or DBH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rallynq(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1997
Subject: Re: Building Board
I used saw horses and it worked very well and takes up less space. Just make sure they are level to each other. Mike Alexander ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1997
Kolb Mailing List
From: David Hempy <hempy(at)ket.org>
Subject: Re: 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar (Clarification)
> >The Bluegrass Ultralight Group is proud to announce the... > > 1997 Kentucky Ultralight Safety Seminar > Saturday January 25, 1997 in Lexington, KY > >... ... > > Saturday, May 11, 1996 > Registration: 8:00-8:45 AM > Seminar: 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM >... Okay, Charles Boehnlein's eagle eyes caught me re-using last year's copy for this announcement. No, you didn't have to register last Spring to come to this year's Safety Seminar. Just show up. The date is most definitely January 25. May 11, 1996 was *last* year's seminar. Please don't show up this May! Thanks for catching by boo-boo Charles. -dave -- David Hempy Kentucky Educational Television Database Administrator/WWW programmer Distance Learning Division http://www.dl.ket.org/staff/dhempy/ (c)1997 KET, Inc. and/or DBH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1997
From: George Henderson <george(at)advtel.net>
Subject: Re: Building Board & Sharpies
steel tubes on a 4 x 8 foot heavy table. The steel tubes were placed where the Kolb manuel said to place the saw horses. The sharpie marks can be easily removed with acetone or nail polish remover. George ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 09, 1997
Subject: Re: Building Board
Let me beat this dead horse a little more. You can't be careful enough about truing things up. I am in contact with Mark 3 builder in NC who just flew his plane for the first time. He reports it took nearly full right aileron to fly straight and level. After looking around he discovered the wings rigged 3/8 out of alignment. Will report on his fix when I talk with him next. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Saw horses
Beating a "saw" horse to death? Here's a tip for building the wings on any surface: Switch ends when building the opposite wing. That way, if there is any twist, it will be cancelled by the other side. H Fritze. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: reynen(at)ix.netcom.com
Date: Jan 12, 1997
Subject: Lotus Floats
After flying my MarkIII for 360 hrs(in 6 yrs) I decided to remove a damaged cap from one of my Full Lotus floats to repair or replace it. To my surprice I found a plywood board (18X36"x3/16"thick) wedged between the cap and the float which was broken in several places and totally waterlogged weighing approx.5-6 Lbs. I have never seen any information on this plywood and it seems to me that if it is neccesary for proper operation of the floats it should not be made out of plywood that when wet,will add 10 Lbs of extra weight(on dual float system). I would like to know if anybody has replaced this with something else. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 1997
From: Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com>
Subject: Builders in Mid-DE
As a builder newbie, I'd sure like a chance to look at, admire and generally gab to someone in the area whose done the deed. If there are builders in the Central Delaware region, or if anyone knows a list of such folks, would you drop me a line? BTW, I'm building an FSII. Bruce Schimmel (bruce(at)schimmel.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Mark-III for sale
Hi, I found this in rec.aviation.ultralights this morning and thought I would pass it along. Rusty 1993 kolb with 503 and all the options you can imagine. for sale in north east pa, asking $13,000 60 hours tt like new e-mail or call ken at 717-489-7620 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: prop comparison
I've been lurking on the fly-ul listserver ...believe me, even lurking is a time commitment. anyway, i just saw this (below) and found it interesting. I think I'll ask the poster (Andy) if he'd be able to scan and send the article. >I would like to get advise and experiences regarding the SPORTPROP. > >Is it as good as the manufacturer states, or is it just another >smooth but inefficient flexible prop ( like IVO )? > >AUGUSTO JOUVIN It is as good as the manufacturer states, particularly the 3 blade model. A couple of months ago Quicksilver Magazine published the results of a series of flight tests that we conducted regarding the Sport Prop, Warp Drive, Precision, and Ivo. Warp Drive had a very slight edge in efficiency but Sport Prop was the BIG winner in smoothness and quiet. Precision was close to Sport Prop in performance but the big loser in smoothness. Ivo ran fairly smoothly but was the big loser in performance (cruise and climb). (posted to fly-ul(at)perim.com by Andy Gold, PFPA(at)aol.com) --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 14, 1997
Subject: New Wiring Harness
New Wiring Harness Available for use with Grand Rapids EIS Kolb Aircraft has just made available a new wiring harness for their FireStar and SlingShot aircraft, this is an option that may be ordered with the EIS instrument package. The harness is designed to connect to the Grand Rapids Technologies Engine Information System. It consists of a bundle of twenty-seven wires with plugs, switches, thermocouple wire, and a remote switch panel to mount in the seat area. The harness comes ready to install in your aircraft and simply plugs into all of the mounted components with the two EIS D-sub connectors pre-wired for the EIS unit and matching plugs for the Rotax wiring harness. It contains the ignition on/off switch and a spring loaded left-right mag switch which are wired to the harness. Also included are the next/previous screen push-button switches for the EIS. Extra wires are provided to allow for additional instruments or custom requirements. The harness is designed to eliminate the wiring nightmares associated with kit building; it is designed for pull-start installations only - not for electric start. Also available is another version of the harness which is designed for use with standard analog instruments. This provides the above harness without the two EIS instrument plugs and thermocouple wire. wiring harness - you would just end up paying a bit more. The harness should be adaptable to a FireFly as well. For more information, contact Kolb Aircraft, Inc., RD 3 Box 38, Phoenixville, PA 19460. Phone: (610) 948-4136. Dennis Souder President ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: NTSB web page
Date: Jan 15, 1997
I have been looking at the NTSB web page (www.ntsb.gov/aviation/months.htm) and fortunately there are not many Kolbs in the reports, and only one fatality I have seen so far. The thing that really jumped out at me is the number of uncertified aircraft with low time pilots that crash. So if you are building an illegal "ultralight" please don't skimp on the training, getting busted in a unregistered airplane is better than being buried in one. The other thing I noticed is that 80% or more of the aircraft with 2 stroke engines that go down, go down because of engine failures. Many of which are unexplained and the engine runs fine in post crash inspection. Of the GA aircraft that have accidents it seems that about 10% are due to engine problems. I have flown behind my share of 2 strokes but will probably never ride in one or build one again. If I do ride in one it will be with a documented high time in type pilot. fly safe and high, Jason MKIII (with a subaru engine) builder. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1997
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject:Instrument panel, pitot tube angle I am just about finished with the shock-mounted aluminum instrument panel. I used 8 very small shock mounts (1/2" diameter), to hopefully spread the stress into the fiberglass fairing existing panel area. I had to cut a lot of the original fiberglass panel away to allow bigger clearance holes for the intrument bodies to extend back into. I tried to make them big enough to ensure that the instruments won't touch the fiberglass, adding shock impact. I welcome feedback, and would like to hear how others are doing this (shock mount or hard mount, etc). I am going to spray the panel flat black. Do I need a glare shield too? Pitot tube: I am ready to extend it out thru the f/g fairing, with a small section of plastic tubing to make it flexible. QUESTION: About what angle should I attempt to hold, for the tube to aim? About level with the fuselage tube for level flight? I think I can bend it a little later if it isn't right. I thought I'd glass in some supports for wires and pitot tubes, and brake lines, before painting the f/g. Any other input before I paint? Pros and cons of painting the fairing black INSIDE to clean it up a little? Maybe white is better, for light. Thanks for your input, Jim (wishin someone would buy me a 582 for my birthday). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: Before Painting Fiberglass
Date: Jan 16, 1997
>---------- >From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM[SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM] >Sent: Thursday, January 16, 1997 9:33 AM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >... > I thought I'd glass in some supports for wires and pitot tubes, and brake >lines, before painting the f/g. Any other input before I paint? *** I discovered that I apparently did not clean off the fiberglass sufficiently before painting. It has stuff on it that helped remove it from the mold. I don't know the right solvents or procedures (I'm sure others on the group do,) but if you don't do this the paint will flake off. >Pros and cons of painting the fairing black INSIDE to clean it up a little? *** I'd highly recommend this, and wish I had done so. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: pitot tube angle
On Thu, 16 Jan 1997, Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote: > Subject:Instrument panel, pitot tube angle > section of plastic tubing to make it flexible. QUESTION: About what angle > should I attempt to hold, for the tube to aim? About level with the fuselage > tube for level flight? I think I can bend it a little later if it isn't > right. Short answer: yes, just eyeball it close to parallel w/ fuselage tube. I don't think the angle is super sensitive for airspeed. Long answer: If you look at a Kolb in level flight (~ cruise speed) the tail of the fuselage tube is maybe 15 degrees up from the front of the fuselage tube. Therefore, a pitot tube parallel with the fuselage tube would be pointing down relative to the oncoming airstream at cruise, but maybe about right for the higher angle of attack at slower and stall speeds, which is where you want the greater accuracy(?). --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 16, 1997
From: John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com>
Subject: kolb flyer wannabe
January 16th. I live in Downingtown, PA area and am looking for area locals who built/own and fly Kolb ultralights/experimentals. I'm interested in gaining insight and advice on my new endeavor of building a Rotax 477 Firefly or possibly Firestar. I wish to witness setup, takeoff and landings as well as maintenance of the aircraft when convenient. First and foremost I wish to find a club or association of Kolb flyers. Happy New Year to all. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 1997
From: molu(at)ACHILLES.NET (Lucien Morais)
Subject: Gap seal?
Hello to the list . I just move to the country before Christmass, and I dont have any choice, but my Firestar 2 will have to spend the winter outside. Last week we had freezing rain and there was about one quarter inches of ice on my plane. While I was taking the ice off the gap seal between the wing and aileron, ripp off for about two feet and a half on the inboard side. Do you members think this will be a problem to fly the plane like that? It is really to cold to try to fix it right now. This morning it was minus 30 degrees celsius.( It,s not always that cold:):) ) Also what do you think the behavior of the plane will be whitout any gaps seal at all? Tank you for advices coming from you. Happy flying Lucien ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: Subaru engines
Date: Jan 17, 1997
I seem to have generated quite a bit of interest with my subaru engine comment. I feel a bit guilty in that I am still a year away from actually getting to that point of building. I hope to get the plane finished without the engine in the next year (recently purchased new house and baby on the way) I am then going to get a weight an balance on the empty airplane so I can then calculate where the engine needs to go. The engine I am planning on using is the EA71 which is the 1600cc version, it is approximately 12lbs lighter than the EA81 and is capable of the 80 horse power I want. I will be using a Ross planetary reduction this puts the propeller quite a ways from the engine so that the engine can be mounted far enough foreword to keep the CG in the proper place. I hope I will be able to use a stock Ross unit but if calculations say I need more distance they will make it any length I need. It seems the problems Kolbs have is with aft CG even with rotax engines. My engine will have no starter or alternator and my airplane will not have a battery. Ignition will come from a magneto. I am working very hard to keep my plane as light and simple as possible and am confident it will come in lighter than many 912 equipped kolbs. I agree that the packaged Subaru engines are too heavy and make too much horse power for the MKIII, these engines are made to replace/compete with certified O235's and O200's which I would not put in my MKIII either. So as you can see I cannot provide much technical assistance right now for other builders since I have yet to try and make it work. Since I have very little spare time but even less money my plane is going to take probably 4 years from start to finish, thats the bad news the good news is 2 of those years have already passed. About a year ago I posted a Subaru question and somebody who owns a Buckaneer responded. He actually had one installed with a belt reduction and said it worked great, I will try and find his messages and foreword them on to the group. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au
Date: Jan 20, 1997
Subject: Re: Subaru engines
yinc.com> Kolks, the Subaru option is an interesting one - although a bit out of my league for a FSII - I am still exploring options to the big R - although I know that Homer and Dennis are quite happy with the Austrian Hand Genade. One comment on Jason's plan: " My engine will have no starter ..." We have a couple of friends who built and flew with BMW 4strokes and R gearboxes. It proved to be IMPOSSIBLE to start them by hand, as the gearbox ratios basically mean you can't turn the engine over fast enough to get it to fire and run. It is also nearly impossible to handprop a 912 I believe... Anyone cite any examples of Subarus with g/boxes being hand propped? Pete Gorton FSII 90% done/to go 17 Dunstan Parade, Port Melbourne 3207 AUSTRALIA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 1997
From: Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com>
Subject: Optimal Layout of EIS Panel
Is there a better or worse way to install the EIS, Airspeed indicator and whiskey compass to minimize funkiness to compass readings? Thanks. My project is an FSII. Oh, could one install a small gel-type 12v battery in parallel to line powering the EIS to allow presetting and an output for accessories like noise reduction and handheld? Bruce Schimmel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com>
Subject: Request for help...
Date: Jan 19, 1997
(Forwarded to the list -- this poster put a subject of 'help' which sends the mail to me...) > From: ceaser(at)hotmail.com > Received: from Ameet Savant (cheryll.cs.fredonia.edu) by mary.cs.fredonia.edu (4.1/SMI-4.1(thc18)) > Date: Sun, 19 Jan 97 14:22:16 EST > Message-Id: <9701191922.AA26101(at)mary.cs.fredonia.edu> > Subject: help > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > > I wonder if some good soul out there would be kind enough to send me the complete blueprint of any ultralight plane FREE OF COST ??? > > If you are reading this line then probably you are just the person i am looking for. "Please send me the above mentioned." > > Thank you with all regards > > Ameet -- Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com (817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Subaru engines
Date: Jan 20, 1997
The reduction unit is in your favor in the speed department, it will make the engine turn over faster than you are turning the propeller. The folks at Ross Aero Reductions say that they hand prop their reduction equipped engines all the time. If you rebuild your engine and do it "too tight" you will have trouble because although speed in your favor torque is not and it makes it too hard to spin the propeller. Most people recommend that if you engine has anything less than 50,000 miles on it do not rebuild it is just been broken in perfectly. If you do feel the need to rebuild make the tolerances a little loose (by automotive standards) especially the rings/pistons to cylinders. >---------- >From: > pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au@acuityinc.com[SMTP:pgorton(at)ozemail.com.au@acuityinc.c >om] >Sent: Sunday, January 19, 1997 7:10 AM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: Re: Subaru engines > >Kolks, >the Subaru option is an interesting one - although a bit out of my league for >a > FSII - I am still exploring options to the big R - although I know that >Homer >and Dennis are quite happy with the Austrian Hand Genade. > >One comment on Jason's plan: >" My engine will have no starter ..." > >We have a couple of friends who built and flew with BMW 4strokes and R >gearboxes. It proved to be IMPOSSIBLE to start them by hand, as the gearbox >ratios basically mean you can't turn the engine over fast enough to get it to >fire and run. > >It is also nearly impossible to handprop a 912 I believe... > >Anyone cite any examples of Subarus with g/boxes being hand propped? > >Pete Gorton FSII 90% done/to go >17 Dunstan Parade, Port Melbourne 3207 AUSTRALIA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Subaru engines
Date: Jan 20, 1997
I also like the idea of rotary power, but two rotors is too much for any kolb. Every now and then I see an ad in Homebuilt Aircraft for Duncan rotary which is a company in Mexico that sells Mazda rotary engines and half Mazda engines (single rotor) for aircraft. If anyone has ever heard anything about this company or anyone who sells plans for cutting two rotor engines in half please let me know. >---------- >From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Friday, January 17, 1997 6:34 PM >To: Jason Omelchuck >Subject: Re: Subaru engines > >Sounds like you've got a good plan in the works. I looked into the >alternatives for the SlingShot, but couldn't find anything immediately >available. My main goal was to get this thing in the air ASAP. Then, >I'll work on the potential new engine. I really love Mazda Rotary >engines. They seem a bit heavy but not entirely out of the question. >One of these days (once the plane is flying), I'll pick up a trashed >engine at the junkyard and start weighing the pieces. A single rotor >engine is a possibility. It's too bad I never heard about the EA71 when >I was looking at Subarus. It sounds like it would've been more tempting >than the EA81. Might still be. > >Good luck, >-- >Russell Duffy >rad(at)pen.net >http://www.pen.net/~rad/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1997
From: pierce(at)rice.edu (George F. Pierce)
Subject: Questions for the group
Hello I am a medium time SEL VFR private pilot, age 50, and am always in fear of that visit to the Doctor for my class 111 physical. 1. Can a Firefly be built as a 103 ultralite and and amateur built aircraft at the same time? 2. Does the firefly quick build qualify under the 51% rule? 3. If built and registered as an aircraft can the Firefly be returned to 103 spects should the doctor fail me in the future? 4. Are there any Kolb flyers in 100 mile radius of Houston, Tx? 5. Will Kolb be at Sun N Fun? I'm told that this is the best of the big flyins for seeing/talkin ultralites/microlites. George F. Pierce III WA5ABS EAA Amsat AOPA ARRL Email: pierce(at)rice.edu ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Questions for the group
Date: Jan 20, 1997
>---------- >From: pierce(at)rice.edu@acuityinc.com[SMTP:pierce(at)rice.edu@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Monday, January 20, 1997 8:24 AM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: Questions for the group > >Hello > >I am a medium time SEL VFR private Please take the time to get training in an ultralight style aircraft. They do fly considerably different than GA aircraft, especially with power off, they decelerate VERY rapidly. > >pilot, age 50, and am always in fear of that visit to the Doctor for my >class 111 physical. > >1. Can a Firefly be built as a 103 ultralite and and amateur built aircraft >at the same time? No, once you have the N number you are an experimental aircraft. > >2. Does the firefly quick build qualify under the 51% rule? Yes, I believe it does > >3. If built and registered as an aircraft can the Firefly be returned to >103 spects should the doctor fail me in the future? I don't think you can unregister an airplane once it gets an N number, but I'm not really sure. > >4. Are there any Kolb flyers in 100 mile radius of Houston, Tx? > >5. Will Kolb be at Sun N Fun? I'm told that this is the best of the big >flyins for seeing/talkin ultralites/microlites. Kolb is always at Sun N Fun. In general there is no reason to build a firefly as an experimental aircraft. Unless you are looking to build time in your log book. Ultralights have less restrictions, cost less, and are cheaper to insure. You will probably have a better performing aircraft if you build it within the guidelines of Part 103 because you will not be tempted to add all of the unnecessary stuff (weight) that the experimental category would allow. I feel I must say it again that you should get training in a ultralight style aircraft, as I surfed the NTSB accident reports there was a huge number of accidents that were low time "ultralight" pilots and had the engine quit on take off and they stalled. > > > > > >George F. Pierce III >WA5ABS >EAA >Amsat >AOPA >ARRL >Email: pierce(at)rice.edu > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1997
From: "Ron Blaylock" <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com>
Subject: Re: Subaru engines
-------- Begin Included Message ------- > Kolks, > the Subaru option is an interesting one - although a bit out of my league for a > FSII - I am still exploring options to the big R - although I know that Homer > and Dennis are quite happy with the Austrian Hand Genade. > > One comment on Jason's plan: > " My engine will have no starter ..." > > We have a couple of friends who built and flew with BMW 4strokes and R > gearboxes. It proved to be IMPOSSIBLE to start them by hand, as the gearbox > ratios basically mean you can't turn the engine over fast enough to get it to > fire and run. > > It is also nearly impossible to handprop a 912 I believe... > > Anyone cite any examples of Subarus with g/boxes being hand propped? > > Pete Gorton FSII 90% done/to go > 17 Dunstan Parade, Port Melbourne 3207 AUSTRALIA > > -------- End Included Message -------- We have a BELT driven reduction on our Subaru. It hand props just fine. I don't know if gears would make a great difference. I don't have the exact reduction because I didn't build the belt drive system and have not actually calculated it but it appears to be about 2.5:1. Starts on the second or third hand propping generally when cold and the first hand propping when warm. Ron B. =============================================== "You are but one flight physical away from an ultralight." S. Larghi =============================================== Ron Blaylock < rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PHFD400(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 20, 1997
Subject: Build time?
I'm new to your list. I would like to know average build time for the kolb mark III. Also how much time the quick build would save. Would this still qualify under the 51% rule if you use the quick build? Thanks.. J. Olson PHFD400.@aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1997
From: Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca>
Subject: A vibrating Kolb Mark 111
I posted a question some time ago about a harmonic vibration problem. I am flying a Kolb Mark 111 with a Rotax 582, 3 - 1 C drive, three blade 66 inch warp drive prop. Thanks for all the replies. I have solved the problem! I have always been a bit suspicious about the amount of flexibility that the C drive hardy disk (the rubber doughnut) had. My suspicions went way up after reading an article in the COPA (Canadian Owners and Pilots Association) magazine. A fellow had all kinds of problems with his powerplant setup. His last attempt at fixing the problem was to change his hardy disk for a less flexible one. He installed one with a shore hardness no. of 75. My inner oil seal needed replacement so it was a great time to take my C box apart and check the no. on my hardy disk. My disk had a shore no. of only 55! I ordered a no. 75 and installed it. I went flying for 2.5 hours yesterday and had a very smooth powerplant at all rpm. My old no. 55 disk would cause serious harmonic vibrations between 5,500 and 6,000 rpm. A local Rotax service center stated that most C drives are now shipped with a no. 75 hardy disk. My C drive is about 4 years old and I would assume that the original no. 55 disk was for light weight two blade wooden props. I added one more item to my reduction drive to allow more space between my prop and the back of my fuselage. My original clearance was only 1.5 inches! I purchased a 2.5 inch prop extension from Ivoprop. An Ivoprop is thinner than a Warp drive therefore the bolts that they supplied were too short. I needed 8 X 150 mm bolts. The longest metric bolts that I could find were 130 mm long. I went to a local skidoo / seadoo dealer and he found the required bolts in his part's book. The part no. is: BOMBARDIER 732 601 054 VIS-SCREW-HEX U.S.A. The above harmonics problem has been annoying me for the last 175 hours. I had discussed this with the North American Rotax distributor in Vernon BC about three years ago. They did not think that I had a problem with the rigidity of my hardy disk at that time. It would have saved me a lot of annoying vibrations if they had been better informed! Kim Saskatchewan, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 1997
From: greg olejniczak <gopack(at)mc.net>
Subject: CHICAGO OWNERS?
HI MY NAME IS GREG. I"M LOOKING TO PURCHASE A KOLB IN THE SPRING. I WAS WONDERING IF THERE WERE ANY OWNERS IN THE CHICAGO AREA? I WOULD LIKE TO TALK WITH YOU ABOUT YOUR CHOICE OF PLANES AND GET A LITTLE BACKGROUND, MAYBE EVEN SEE YOUR PLANE. PLEASE E-MAIL ME AT:.......> GOPACK(at)MC.NET THANKS:~) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 21, 1997
Subject: wing covering question
Need a bit of clarification. On covering the wings, I thought that the 1/2 inch tape goes on top of the ribs and under the fabric to work as an anti chaf. But in reading the manual I understand it to say that it goes on top of the fabric, which is then riveted and covered with the 2 inch finish tape. I guess its to give more for the rivets to bite into. am I correct. Thanks Tim Loehrke ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 1997
From: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu (Ray Abbruzzese)
Subject: Re: wing covering question
>Need a bit of clarification. On covering the wings, I thought that the 1/2 >inch tape goes on top of the ribs and under the fabric to work as an anti >chaf. But in reading the manual I understand it to say that it goes on top of >the fabric, which is then riveted and covered with the 2 inch finish tape. I >guess its to give more for the rivets to bite into. >am I correct. Yes, you are correct. The rivets need the extra "bite". As for anti-chafing, I used a good quality, cloth tape (ie: medical tape) on all SHARP edges. >Thanks Tim Loehrke > You're welcome. See you in the sky ! Ray Abbruzzese E-Mail at: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu Lincoln, Nebraska, USA Standard Disclaimer: These are my opinions and you all know about opinions (they are like butts, everybody has one). I could be wrong and I probably am. Just please do not sue me. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Anti-chafe Tape
>Yes, you are correct. The rivets need the extra "bite". As for anti-chafing, >I used a good quality, cloth tape (ie: medical tape) on all SHARP edges. Ray and all... Stits makes an anti-chafe tape that frankly looks a lot like a coarse weave adhesive tape that has medium stick qualities. I have no idea how if any it differs from the garden variety of commonly available adhesive tape. I do know that it cost about $9 a roll and the Stits video recommends it instead of "plain old tape"... Something about mildew if I remember correctly. One roll is large enough to do quite a few planes (just covering the sharp edges). I used only about 3 yards. I have given away a lot of it to others and still have a bunch left. If anyone needs any send me a self addressed envelope with a couple of stamps on it and I will send you some. My mailing address is 14700 Marsh Lane, #821, Addison, Tx. 75234. Later, -- Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker (972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Anti-chafe Tape
Before I started covering my tail, I called Randy at R&R to ask about the lack of anti-chafing tape in the covering kit. He told me that you can use cloth hospital tape (like someone else mentioned), but you don't really have to use any at all. He said that if he were doing the video again, he wouldn't have used any. It makes sense to me that there won't be any chafing because the Poly-Brush will stick the fabric to the surface underneath. On the other hand, I doubt it would hurt anything to have it. I didn't use any, but it's too early to tell how well it's going to work out in the long run. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 1997
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Anti-chafe tape
The first I heard of anti-chafe tape was from Cliff Stripling. He gave me some with the paint I bought from him (Thanks again Cliff!) I was using it on the worst of sharp edges to reduce the work involved in making everything smooth and burr-free. Even after belt sanding all parts before assembly, I found things that were sharp from certain angles I hadn't thought to sand, so I would file some more and finally tape over the worst of it. I had a pre-cover inspection by the local EAA technical advisor, Walt Mount. Walt was full of great advise from years of experience with "rag and tube" airplanes. His recommendation was to use anti-chafe tape on everything. He said if you use a whole roll and add maybe 1/2 a pound to your airframe, when you get all done covering you will still find places that could have benefited from some tape. He was right. I would call the stuff "Smoothing Tape". As Russell pointed out, there really is no relative movement and so no chafing. But because the tape is under there, the really sharp edges that are sometimes unavoidable, are smoothed somewhat. I cannot see any of the tape I put on now that it is covered, in other words it does not show thru the fabric. But, I can see some edges of things that look sharp, that did NOT get any anti-chafe tape. I think the fabric is very tough and these visible edges of gussets and rivet heads may never wear thru. But if they were covered with "Smoothing Tape" anti-chafe tape, they would not show thru the fabric and paint. One of the things I find the coolest about a Stits-covered tubing structure is that until you touch it you cannot be sure it is fabric, because it is so smooth looking when applied and painted well. My 2 cents worth: put Smoothing tape everywhere, you won't regret it. Jim Gerken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rallynq(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 22, 1997
Subject: Re: Subaru engines
I have seen a subaru with belt drive. It started easy It probably had close to 1to1 reduction. It was a pusher. Mike Alexander ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 1997
From: molu(at)ACHILLES.NET (Lucien Morais)
Subject: Drain holes
Hello again. I did removed my wing to fix the gap seal between the wing and ailerons and while it was in the workshop for a while ,I heard a noise and found out I had ice in my ailerons. There was a thread a while ago about drains holes. Can somenody tell me, what to do about humidity in the wings? Tank,s Lucien. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: anti-chafe stuff
If you use anti-chafe tape, i wouldn't think you need to go hog wild with it. The use of tape didn't occur to me when I built my FS 3 years ago. I did, however, bring the stits on the bottom of the wing up and over the nose of each rib and polytac'd it there for a dbl layer. That's pretty much the only place i did this and I have no chafing problems. I'm skeptical about adhesive backed products, especially inside the covered parts. On hot summer days here the adhesive backed velcro on my wing gap seal has gotten soft and not lasted, and my plane is generally not outside much. I assume also that the inside of the wing probably doesn't get very warm and is protected from UV. The point is, you could use polytac'd stits instead of tape. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 1997
From: Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.nmu.edu>
Subject: Started help
I've been a lurker until now, considering my options. I've got three question. I'd love some help. - If I build an ultralight, will I be able to fly it at the local airport? Can I take my time, pick through the weather, and fly Xcountry, landing at airports along the way? - I'm also thinking about building the two seat Kolb. I understand that this would have to be an experimental aircraft, not an ultralight. How long does this actually take real people? Can I expect to finish this in a Summer? How much will it cost, start to finish? - Is anyone involved with Kolb (or like) aircraft anywhere in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan? I'd love to meet/talk/see-your-plane! -Thanks -Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Started help
Date: Jan 22, 1997
>---------- >From: Randy Appleton[SMTP:randy(at)euclid.acs.nmu.edu@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 1997 1:18 PM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: Started help > >I've been a lurker until now, considering my options. > >I've got three question. I'd love some help. > >- If I build an ultralight, will I be able to fly it at the local airport? >Can I take my time, pick through the weather, and fly Xcountry, landing at >airports along the way? I think the law says that you should have access to any public airport. the reality is that it is up to the operator of the airport, some are ultralight friendly some are not. It makes it much easier if you act airplane like in that you have a radio and follow standard patterns and basicly stay out of everyone's way. > >- I'm also thinking about building the two seat Kolb. I understand that >this would have to be an experimental aircraft, not an ultralight. How >long does this actually take real people? Can I expect to finish this in >a Summer? How much will it cost, start to finish? It is going to take me 4 years, I have not been keeping track of the hours. Someone on the list built a firefly (I think) in a couple of months with his father. The amount of time required to build the two seat I dont think would be that much more than single seats assuming you keep it simple and used packaged engines. You could finish it in a summer if you have up to 500 hours of spare time in you summer. My MKIII will cost about $12,000 when it is finished. > >- Is anyone involved with Kolb (or like) aircraft anywhere in the Upper >Peninsula of Michigan? I'd love to meet/talk/see-your-plane! > >-Thanks >-Randy > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Started help
Randy Appleton wrote: > - If I build an ultralight, will I be able to fly it at the local airport? > Can I take my time, pick through the weather, and fly Xcountry, landing at > airports along the way? As I understand it, a small public airport can keep you out only if it's designated as "unsafe for ultralights" by the FAA. I'm not quite sure how you find out whether it's got this designation or not. Many airport managers don't want UL's around and will likely tell you not to fly there. Then I guess it's up to you to prove they're not just making up their own rules. I asked 2 local airports in my area about it when I was deciding what to build, and both said in no uncertain terms "No ultralights allowed". Maybe you can legally go there, but you certainly won't be welcome. On the other hand, if you're just passing through and buying gas, I can't imagine anyone giving you a hard time as long as you use a handheld radio and follow the procedures like the GA guys do. > - I'm also thinking about building the two seat Kolb. I understand that > this would have to be an experimental aircraft, not an ultralight. How > long does this actually take real people? Can I expect to finish this in > a Summer? How much will it cost, start to finish? It just depends on how much time you've got to spend. I'm building a SlingShot and currently have the wings and tail together and all covered but the wings. It's taken 246 hours so far, and I received the first kit in Oct. The wings were basically completed in 2 weeks vacation that I took. I'm hopeful that the 3rd kit and engine will arrive by the end of the month, otherwise I'll have to push back my estimate some. The obvious option if you're in a hurry (and money's no factor), is to get the quick build kit. Be careful that you document enough work to qualify under the 51% rule for registration. My SlingShot will cost about $15k with a 503 engine and the BRS performance reducing device :-) -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: fuel tanks
Hello, I have a couple of questions about fuel tanks for anyone that's flying now. How low in the tank does the fuel have to get before you get nervous about the pickup being uncovered? In other words, how much fuel to you consider unusable unless it's an emergency? Also, for anyone using the dual 5 gallon tanks, how did you hook them up? I believe the normal method is to just connect them with a "Y" and expect that they'll feed evenly. Does that work out OK? Did anyone connect the tanks together at the bottom just to make sure they stay at the same level? I'm thinking of keeping the tanks separate, and using my electric pump to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. Only the main tank will feed the engine. I figure this would allow me to use almost every drop of the aux tank without worry. Does this sound like a reasonable plan, or have I finally gone off the deep end? -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 1997
From: Bill Shamblin <shamblin(at)hc1.hci.net>
Subject: Re: fuel tanks
i am wondering about the aux pump idea and the "keep it simple to avoid surprises" idea. bill www.hci.net/~shamblin On Thu, 23 Jan 1997, Russell Duffy wrote: > Hello, > > I have a couple of questions about fuel tanks for anyone that's flying > now. > > How low in the tank does the fuel have to get before you get nervous > about the pickup being uncovered? In other words, how much fuel to you > consider unusable unless it's an emergency? > > Also, for anyone using the dual 5 gallon tanks, how did you hook them > up? I believe the normal method is to just connect them with a "Y" and > expect that they'll feed evenly. Does that work out OK? Did anyone > connect the tanks together at the bottom just to make sure they stay at > the same level? > > I'm thinking of keeping the tanks separate, and using my electric pump > to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. Only the main tank > will feed the engine. I figure this would allow me to use almost every > drop of the aux tank without worry. Does this sound like a reasonable > plan, or have I finally gone off the deep end? > > -- > Russell Duffy > rad(at)pen.net > http://www.pen.net/~rad/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 24, 1997
Subject: Re: Kolb flyer wannabe
<< What do you estimate the finished dry weight will be? I have not calculated the finished weight. But to be on the safe I'm getting the 503 Rotax. << What extras are you planning to install? I'm installing a full enclosure, 2nd seat Option, Streamline struts, bake pedals, Super EIS, strobes and a Terra Package (Com, Transponder and alt. encoder. I live close the Mexican border and it's nice to have when crossing it). I have not decided if I'm going to install a BRS parachute. My plan is a 2 years build time to finish the FS II. I travel alot due to work and I'm in no hurry to finish it. <> I'll plan on updating my website as soon as AOL gets its act together, It's getting harder to log on. I may have to go to another service provider. Type to you later Will Uribe WillU(at)aol.com http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 24, 1997
Subject: Re: fuel tanks
<< I figure this would allow me to use almost every drop of the aux tank without worry. Does this sound like a reasonable plan, or have I finally gone off the deep end? >> Why dont you just install a 3 way fuel valve. That way you can run one tank dry then switch to the other tank just like in GA airplanes. In the 12 years I've been flying I never had to run my tanks so low but with the range of the FSII and the long spans of desert between airports it would be a nice option to have. You wouldn't worry of having the electric fuel pump going out on you and being stuck with one fuel tank on a cross country trip. I would use the electric fuel pump as a back up to the engine driven one. Something to keep in mind: I was riding right seat in a Navajo when the pilot had to change fuel tanks as soon as the one went dry. This was due to a long flight from Detroit to El Paso and bad weather keeping airports closed along the way . Its no fun hearing the engine sputter before changing fuel tanks even if we had two engines. Type to you later Will Uribe WillU(at)aol.com http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com>
Subject: FW: fuel tanks
Date: Jan 24, 1997
I have the dual 5-gallon tank setup in my Mk II. A few observations: - At least on the Mk II, the tanks are angled backwards a bit when the plane is level. This has two effects: 1) since the filler neck is in the rear, it's slightly lower than the top of the tank. This means you can't really fill the tank all the way up. I get 4.5 gallons usable per side. 2) when there is NO fuel visible from the front, there's still enough in the back to cover the intake (barely). Rule of thumb is that when it looks like you're completely out of gas, you have about 5 minutes left. Not that I ever let it get down this far in normal flying! I originally just teed the two tanks together. After flying it a bit, I mounted a separate fuel valve for each tank before the Tee. This works out really well. I can drain just one side to help with trim, or I can drain one tank all the way down with a solid "reserve". It also helps when you're trying to manage fuel for other reasons, like if you had to buy a tank of 100LL, and you want to run it down halfway so you can "cut" it with 89 octane later. -Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Subaru engines -Reply
Date: Jan 24, 1997
Richard, are you putting any kind of electrical system in your airplane? Does your engine have a mechanical fuel pump? What kind of ignition does it have, dual? Magnetos? if magnetos what do they look like (are they mounted on the back of the engine like a airplane engine or do they look more like a car distributor or one of each? How long of a propeller are you able to swing? did you have any problems with oil pan engine mount clearances? What kind of exhaust are you using? And what was your mothers maiden name? (just kidding) I would appreciate any info you could provide on the physical challenges of getting it to fit. Thanks Jason jason(at)acuityinc.com >---------- >From: Richard Neilsen[SMTP:NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 1997 7:21 AM >To: jason(at)sluggo.acuityinc.com >Subject: Subaru engines -Reply > >Your approach to the Subaru sounds interesting. I >talked to someone that Dennis Souder at Kolb >referred me to. He was flying with (I think) a direct >drive Subaru. He said that he was very happy with the >installation and had very good luck with it. He >indicated that the climb rate wasn't real good. He sold >the plane and the first thing the new owner did was >hang a Rotax on it??? The reduction drive you are >planning should improve the climb rate if it doesn't >add too much weight. > >I'm in the process of putting a VW engine on a MKIII >that I'm building. I'm using a Great Planes 2180cc >conversion with direct drive and a 2 blade wood prop. >Last week I did the first test run of the VW on the >plane. The engine starts very easy by hand propping >so much so that I will no longer leave the option open >for a starter. I forget what I figured as the full weight of >the engine but it seems like it was app 110lbs with >app. 75hp. I'm planning to have the plane flying by >spring time. I will post some thing to let every one >know how it flies. > >The sound of a 4cyl. 4stroke is music compared to >those 2stroke engines. A water cooled 4stroke should >sound even better. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 24, 1997
Subject: Fwd: fuel tanks
Thanks for the info, something else to keep in mind. Will Uribe WillU(at)aol.com http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html Forwarded message: From: skip(at)netline.net (skip staub) To: WillU(at)aol.com Date: 97-01-24 18:26:27 EST >Why don't you just install a 3 way fuel valve. That way you can run one tank >dry then switch to the other tank just like in GA airplanes. >I was riding right seat in a Navajo when the pilot had to change fuel tanks >as soon as the one went dry. There is a major difference between running an ultralights tank dry and that of the Navajo or similar general aviation aircraft. When the UL's engine quits it DOESN'T windmill whereas unless you make a conscious effort to stop the Navajo's engine it'll continue to windmill. No big deal in a GA aircraft, but not nice in the UL. :) Regards, Skip 1984 Ultrastar Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us>
Date: Jan 24, 1997
Subject: Fuel tanks
Hello, We set up our fuel tanks just as the manual said too and it seems to work great. There is no uneven flow of fuel. We just recently put an electronic fuel gauge on it and it works great. We mounted the fuel gauge on the floor pan between the two passengers. Just lettin' you know, Brandon | Kolb | - - - - Mark III [][]-| - - - - N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us (_____________//----------------\^ / o ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Jan 25, 1997
Subject: Re: FW: fuel tanks
Question, on a gravity fed system with two tanks, it does not matter if tanks are "Teed" together but wouldn't a lift system requiring a fuel pump (engine) suck air if one tank runs empty resulting in a engine out. I believe this is why low wings like Pipers use fuel tanks selector valve. People who have "Teed" may be surprised. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: FW: fuel tanks Date: 1/24/97 12:05 PM I have the dual 5-gallon tank setup in my Mk II. A few observations: - At least on the Mk II, the tanks are angled backwards a bit when the plane is level. This has two effects: 1) since the filler neck is in the rear, it's slightly lower than the top of the tank. This means you can't really fill the tank all the way up. I get 4.5 gallons usable per side. 2) when there is NO fuel visible from the front, there's still enough in the back to cover the intake (barely). Rule of thumb is that when it looks like you're completely out of gas, you have about 5 minutes left. Not that I ever let it get down this far in normal flying! I originally just teed the two tanks together. After flying it a bit, I mounted a separate fuel valve for each tank before the Tee. This works out really well. I can drain just one side to help with trim, or I can drain one tank all the way down with a solid "reserve". It also helps when you're trying to manage fuel for other reasons, like if you had to buy a tank of 100LL, and you want to run it down halfway so you can "cut" it with 89 octane later. -Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Jan 25, 1997
Subject: Re: FW: Subaru engines -Reply
There was a outfit advertising in the Ultralight Flyer magazine a while back with an adapter kit to mount a Rotax reduction drive to a Subaru engine. For the 70-80 Hp. engines it sounded good. The other post make comment about a person buying a Kolb with a Subaru and the climb was poor. That means there not able to extract the power of the engine because they can't rev up the engine to get the horse power, a reduction drive would make a lot of difference. Earthstar experienced a similar problem putting a 2-cylinder volkwagen type engine on their plane, a 277 Rotax by far out performed it. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: FW: Subaru engines -Reply Date: 1/24/97 4:54 PM Richard, are you putting any kind of electrical system in your airplane? Does your engine have a mechanical fuel pump? What kind of ignition does it have, dual? Magnetos? if magnetos what do they look like (are they mounted on the back of the engine like a airplane engine or do they look more like a car distributor or one of each? How long of a propeller are you able to swing? did you have any problems with oil pan engine mount clearances? What kind of exhaust are you using? And what was your mothers maiden name? (just kidding) I would appreciate any info you could provide on the physical challenges of getting it to fit. Thanks Jason jason(at)acuityinc.com >---------- >From: Richard Neilsen[SMTP:NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 1997 7:21 AM >To: jason(at)sluggo.acuityinc.com >Subject: Subaru engines -Reply > >Your approach to the Subaru sounds interesting. I >talked to someone that Dennis Souder at Kolb >referred me to. He was flying with (I think) a direct >drive Subaru. He said that he was very happy with the >installation and had very good luck with it. He >indicated that the climb rate wasn't real good. He sold >the plane and the first thing the new owner did was >hang a Rotax on it??? The reduction drive you are >planning should improve the climb rate if it doesn't >add too much weight. > >I'm in the process of putting a VW engine on a MKIII >that I'm building. I'm using a Great Planes 2180cc >conversion with direct drive and a 2 blade wood prop. >Last week I did the first test run of the VW on the >plane. The engine starts very easy by hand propping >so much so that I will no longer leave the option open >for a starter. I forget what I figured as the full weight of >the engine but it seems like it was app 110lbs with >app. 75hp. I'm planning to have the plane flying by >spring time. I will post some thing to let every one >know how it flies. > >The sound of a 4cyl. 4stroke is music compared to >those 2stroke engines. A water cooled 4stroke should >sound even better. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "MIKE SPREUTELS" <spreutel(at)norwich.net>
Subject: KOLB TRAINER
Date: Jan 25, 1997
do you feel that the kolb mark 3 is tough enough for full time trainning in a hard landing is the running gear easy to replace what drawbacks with a mark 3 would you see. mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 25, 1997
Subject: Re: Fuel tanks
I installed a 12 gallon tank that I purchased from a boat dealer. That allowed me to make an outside fill cap. I ran 1.5" tubing from the tank flange to the outside fill cap flange. I bought the fill cap from the same boat dealer. Now no fuel spills on the inside of the cabin. Total cost of tank and cap was <$100.00. I use an electric fuel pump as a backup and to fill the carb float bowls before starting. I have it plumbed parallel to the Mikuni engine pulse pump. So far (115 hours) no problems with the setup. Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Tank filler
To all... I saw a post about tank fillers and thought I would pass this along. I turned my tanks around (put the filler cap to the front) because I wanted to be able to top my tanks off pretty full and I also didn't want to any possible leakage out the caps while in a climb out (which wouldn'ts probably happen anyway). I found that filling them from the seat area with the typical 5 gallon jug was risking a spill every time. I bought one of those funnels available everywhere with the long tapering bottom and bought a piece of soft clear plastic tubing that fit snugly over the end. I fastened a piece of piano wire (coat hanger would do just as well) in a coil around the soft tube near the end with a hook bend in the other end. When I refuel, I slip the funnel through the loop formed by the lower radiator hose (my hose might be different from yours as I put 90 degree bend on each side to route it behind rather than under the engine) and run the tube over the rear fuselage and into the tank. I fasten the hook over the lip of the tank to insure the tube stays in place while filling. From the back by the prop I can lift and fill with the 5 gallon jug easily with no fear of spilling any. Another difference on my plane is I have doors on the rear top of the fuselage I can open and I can see the tanks easily while filling from the rear so as not to overfill and run over. Later, -- Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker (972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Fuel T(h)anks
I seem to have stumbled on a popular topic. Thanks to everyone that sent info and advice on my fuel tank questions. As I expected, there are several methods of successfully hooking these things up. My preference has always been to have one tank of >= 10 gallon capacity rather than the 2 tank setup. I understand that it will require some modification of the cage to be able to get the larger tank through the opening and into position. When I get the cage in a couple weeks, I'll start looking into what's required. If that's too involved, I'll fall back to using the stock tanks. Thanks again, -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 1997
From: "Daniel D. Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net>
Subject: Prop length and pitch
Need information regarding wooden prop length and pitch for a firestar II. Changing from a three blade flexible prop to a wooden one. Had an accident because of the flexible props inability to respond quick enough. As the prop is destroyed (an alot the plane) can't measure the one i had. Thanks. dbush(at)gte.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 27, 1997
Subject: Re: KOLB TRAINER
SPREUTELS) writes: << do you feel that the kolb mark 3 is tough enough for full time trainning in a hard landing is the running gear easy to replace what drawbacks with a mark 3 would you see. >> Yes, the MkIII is tough enough. The landing gear is easy to replace or repair. I think the biggest drawback to training is lack of dual controls. Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 1997
From: "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com>
Subject: Re: Tank filler
On Sat, 25 Jan 1997, Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote: > To all... > > I saw a post about tank fillers and thought I would pass this along. I > turned my tanks around (put the filler cap to the front) because I wanted > to be able to top my tanks off pretty full and I also didn't want to any > possible leakage out the caps while in a climb out (which wouldn'ts > probably happen anyway). I found that filling them from the seat area with > the typical 5 gallon jug was risking a spill every time. A Kolb owner at my club uses the slickest method I have yet seen to fill his tank. He puts a gas can of pre-mix on a stepladder. Then puts one end one of those neat little siphon thingies into the tank, the other into the gas can. A few shakes of the auto-siphon and the gas quickly starts flowing into the tank. When full, just pull the end out of the can on the step ladder. No muss, no fuss. I've already bought my siphon thingy for when my plane is done. *************************************************************** * Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the * * MICOM Communications * shiny side * * Simi Valley, CA * up. * *************************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: BFI or CFI instructing in a Kolb???
To All... Chicken Little here... Wanted to know if anyone knew of an instructor using a Kolb (MK II or III) who would be located anywhere near the Dallas - Ft.Worth, Tx. area. I have heard of one located in the Miami, Fla. area, one in California, and maybe one somewhere in Olkahoma. I know that Dan does it at the Kolb company, but I was hoping to find someone nearer to this area. Any information would be appreciated. I would like an hour or two if possible in the real thing before I try out my own plane. Later, -- Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker (972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 1997
From: HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark)
Subject: RE: Tank filler
kolb(at)intrig.com (internet!intrig.com!kolb) I use a 55 gal drumb with a hand crank pump with a bent copper pipe to act as a hook to keep it in the tank when filling. The fuel drumb sits on a 2' x 2' trailer that I pull with a lawn mower out to the driveway when I need more gas. This works well if you are lucky to have what I call an ultralight park. (the place I fly from has about 10 ultralights and 9 hangers) We all get our fuel at the same time so the truck dumps off around 300 gal. at a time. Mark Hansen ---------- From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling Subject: Kolb-List: Tank filler Date: Saturday, January 25, 1997 10:22PM To all... I saw a post about tank fillers and thought I would pass this along. I turned my tanks around (put the filler cap to the front) because I wanted to be able to top my tanks off pretty full and I also didn't want to any possible leakage out the caps while in a climb out (which wouldn'ts probably happen anyway). I found that filling them from the seat area with the typical 5 gallon jug was risking a spill every time. I bought one of those funnels available everywhere with the long tapering bottom and bought a piece of soft clear plastic tubing that fit snugly over the end. I fastened a piece of piano wire (coat hanger would do just as well) in a coil around the soft tube near the end with a hook bend in the other end. When I refuel, I slip the funnel through the loop formed by the lower radiator hose (my hose might be different from yours as I put 90 degree bend on each side to route it behind rather than under the engine) and run the tube over the rear fuselage and into the tank. I fasten the hook over the lip of the tank to insure the tube stays in place while filling. From the back by the prop I can lift and fill with the 5 gallon jug easily with no fear of spilling any. Another difference on my plane is I have doors on the rear top of the fuselage I can open and I can see the tanks easily while filling from the rear so as not to overfill and run over. Later, -- Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker (972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 1997
From: Bill Little <blittle(at)communique.net>
Subject: Flight Characteristics of the Mark III
Hey guys: I have finally finished the Mark III I started 2 years and 2 months ago. I went through the inspection process like a breeze and even agreed to flying the FAA inspector when my 40 is flown off. I have a question or two for anyone who has some experience flying the Mark III with the Rotax 618. I have that engine with a "E" Gear 3.47:1 and a 3 blade 70" tapered tip Warp drive propeller. My question is does anyone get 80 mph in cruise with this plane? If so how can I get it. I am seeing 1200-1300 ft/min climb but I can only muster 70-72 out of the bird. I am planning to fly it to sun-n-fun this year and need a bit more cruise. Thank you Bill Little N1618B Kolb Mark III ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: BFI or CFI instructing in a Kolb???
Date: Jan 28, 1997
More like smart little. >---------- >From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling[SMTP:striplic(at)dfw.net@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Monday, January 27, 1997 3:52 PM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: BFI or CFI instructing in a Kolb??? > >To All... Chicken Little here... > >Wanted to know if anyone knew of an instructor using a Kolb (MK II or III) >who would be located anywhere near the Dallas - Ft.Worth, Tx. area. I have >heard of one located in the Miami, Fla. area, one in California, and maybe >one somewhere in Olkahoma. I know that Dan does it at the Kolb company, >but I was hoping to find someone nearer to this area. Any information >would be appreciated. > >I would like an hour or two if possible in the real thing before I try out >my own plane. > >Later, > > >-- >Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC >striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker >(972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 28, 1997
Subject: Re: Flight Characteristics of the Mark III
70-72 is not so bad for a cruise speed. My mark 2 with a 503 and a 64" prop cruised between 60 and 65 indicated at 5800 rpm. When checked with the gps those numbers were maybe a couple of mph high. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 29, 1997
Subject: Re: Flight Characteristics of the Mark III
Little) writes: << have a question or two for anyone who has some experience flying the Mark III with the Rotax 618. I have that engine with a "E" Gear 3.47:1 and a 3 blade 70" tapered tip Warp drive propeller. My question is does anyone get 80 mph in cruise with this plane? If so how can I get it. I am seeing 1200-1300 ft/min climb but I can only muster 70-72 out of the bird. >> Are you sure that 70 is your actual cruise speed. My Mark III cruises at 75 indicated but actually is doing about 80. This is with a 582 and 72" tapered Warp Dr. -- C box @ 3:1. When I first flew it it indicated 95 to 100 and I thought I did a great job of building. However, locating the static source out of the cabin brought readings down to a more realistic level. Where is your static port? If it is at the back of the ASI, your readings may not even be close to what you are actually getting and the variation could be either way! Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us>
Date: Jan 29, 1997
Subject: Re: Flight Characteristics of the Mark III
Hello, > I have a question or two for anyone who has some experience flying > the Mark III with the Rotax 618. I have that engine with a "E" Gear > 3.47:1 and a 3 blade 70" tapered tip Warp drive propeller. My > question is does anyone get 80 mph in cruise with this plane? If so > how can I get it. I am seeing 1200-1300 ft/min climb but I can only > muster 70-72 out of the bird. My father and I finished a Mark III this last fall and we get it to cruise at about 75-80. It is important that you place your static port correctly. When we first started flying it we had very high readings because we had the static port in the cockpit and that of course caused a negative pressure ect. Also if you have a full enclosure, when you put this on and take it off you get a pressure change in the cockpit. To solve this problem my father took a small aluminum tube and pounded the end down so it has just a little hole in the end. He then stuck this out the bottom of the nose cone and attached it to the static line. This seemed to work really well. Happy flying, Brandon | Kolb | - - - - Mark III [][]-| - - - - N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us (_____________//----------------\^ / o ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 31, 1997
Subject: clarification on list/Kolb
Somehow I got my address book messed up. Would someone drop me the correct e mail address for Dennis at Kolb. Somehow when I have sent him messages I sent them to this Kolb group. thanks tim loehrke 98% complete on my Firestar 2. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 31, 1997
Subject: covering question
I am just expanding my knowledge, why when riveting the fabric on the top ribs do you stop at the high apex and why are the false ribs not riveted. The bottom false ribs are and so is the full length of the whole rib. It seems to me that the extra rivets in the front would be helpful. I have some ideas but thought I would throw out the question. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 1997
From: Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net>
Subject: Re: covering question
Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote: > > I am just expanding my knowledge, why when riveting the fabric on the top > ribs do you stop at the high apex and why are the false ribs not riveted. The > bottom false ribs are and so is the full length of the whole rib. It seems to > me that the extra rivets in the front would be helpful. I have some ideas but > thought I would throw out the question. Answer from a non-expert.----The upper leading edge should always be under positive pressure, the after third of the airfoil under negative pressure, and the bottom, though essentially positive, is straight and subject to drumming. Why weaken the tube by drilling unnecessary holes at the area of highest load? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 1997
From: Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net>
Subject: Wheel pants
I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking for some wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants for the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel pants that would fit and look good on a firestar II? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Wheel pants
On Fri, 31 Jan 1997, Cal wrote: > I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking for some > wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants for > the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel pants > that would fit and look good on a firestar II? > You might try Harbor Ultralight Products. They used to do a lot of this, especially for Kolb planes. I'm not sure if they are still in this sort of business, and you'd have to check for their phone number (sorry) . I have their address only : 1326 Batey Place, Harbor City, CA 90710-1209 --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel pants
Date: Feb 02, 1997
---------- > On Fri, 31 Jan 1997, Cal wrote: > > > I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking for some > > wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants for > > the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel pants > > that would fit and look good on a firestar II? > > > You might try Harbor Ultralight Products. They used to do a lot of this, > especially for Kolb planes. I'm not sure if they are still in this sort > of business, and you'd have to check for their phone number (sorry) . > I have their address only : 1326 Batey Place, Harbor City, CA 90710-1209 > > --------|-------- > Ben Ransom (*) > UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o > Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu > http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > Sparks Fiberglass, has nice ones too,, Info on them in Kitplanes mag. classified ads.. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel pants
Date: Feb 02, 1997
---------- > > > ---------- > > On Fri, 31 Jan 1997, Cal wrote: > > > > > I'm using 15x6.00-6 tires on my firestar II and I'm looking for > some > > > wheel pants, the last time I checked with kolb they only offered pants > for > > > the smaller size tires. Does anyone know where I could get some wheel > pants > > > that would fit and look good on a firestar II? > > > > > You might try Harbor Ultralight Products. They used to do a lot of this, > > especially for Kolb planes. I'm not sure if they are still in this sort > > of business, and you'd have to check for their phone number (sorry) . > > I have their address only : 1326 Batey Place, Harbor City, CA 90710-1209 > > > > --------|-------- > > Ben Ransom (*) > > UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o > > Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu > > http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > > Sparks Fiberglass, has nice ones too,, Info on them in Kitplanes mag. > classified ads.. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George McCullough" <airman1(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Feb 02, 1997
Subject: Kolb Firestar
Good Evening All, Is the Kolb Firestar I still available as a kit ?? I went to the website for Kolb ( Kolb(at)intrig.com ??) and there was no info available online. Appreciate any info | ^ ___________| / / | ^ / 0 / | _____/ /| / __ __________________ / _\_| / ^ /GM\ /George McCullough | \_____/__\_/______________/____\______/ PATCO'81 BOS ARTCC| / \ \ (603)889-8707 | / o \RANS/KOLB wannabee| O ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com>
Subject: Kolb Firestar (fwd)
Date: Feb 02, 1997
> Is the Kolb Firestar I still available as a kit ?? I went to the > website for Kolb ( Kolb(at)intrig.com ??) and there was no info > available online. > intrig.com supports the Kolb mailing list but does not house any Kolb web stuff. I am not sure if there is an "official" Kolb web site or not. There are some people with pictures of planes. Anyone want to provide some URL's? -- Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com (817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb web page
The primary Kolb page is kept by Mike Rael and has links to most other pages. The URL is: http://www.usa.net/~rael/kolb/index.html -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Fabric attachment to wing
In regard to the question about fabric fasteners, the fabric only needs to be attached where it is possible to be lifted off the structure. Consequently, the only place it doesn't need to be fastened is on the curvature on the top front of the airfoil. The cordwise tension caused by heat shrinking the fabric causes the fabric to dip between ribs. To lift off the ribs at this point, the fabric would have to be completely flattened by the lift (negative pressure). Its not possible to generate that much of a vacuum and keep the wings on the airplane. I hope this explanation helps. Hank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 1997
From: John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com>
Subject: Kolb's latest E-mail address
February 2nd. I visited Kolb's factory (a beautiful old Chester County farm) and picked up an updated business card. It reads as follows: Customer Support: (610) 948-4136 Fax: 948-6727 Builder Assistance: 948-4527 (Saturdays - 717-362-1064) Builder Assist. E-mail dlsouder(at)aol.com or flykolb(at)epix.net Now don't all call at once! Hope this helps. John Hanson pilotone(at)erols.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 1997
From: "Daniel D. Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net>
Subject: ASI and static hookup
Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static" tube shorter than the pitot tube? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Misc Rambling
Greetings, It looks like I'm not having a good delivery year so far. Has anyone had any trouble getting Grand Rapids to ship you EIS? I ordered on by Fax on Dec 11th then ended up calling them on Jan 6th to order the BRS. When I asked about the EIS, they found my order buried under some other stuff. He apologized and said it would go right out, but when I called him on the 29th he couldn't find the order at all. I faxed him a new copy and have started the waiting mode again. It's not like I really need it now, but it was only supposed to take 3 weeks. I haven't heard anything that makes me believe the BRS was ordered either, though it's still early for that. Speaking of the BRS, I saw the Beyond 2000 episode last week and it was very impressive. I'm no longer sorry I ordered one. LEAF finally sent my IVO prop last week, but I'm thinking they shipped the wrong version. They appear to have charged me for the standard adjustable version rather than the quick adjust that I ordered. I haven't quite decided how bad that would be. Maybe when it arrives I'll find out that I just got a special deal on the q-adj (but I wouldn't count on it). Speaking of things that haven't arrived yet, I'm still waiting on the cage and engine. Last time I talked to Dennis, they were waiting on the powdercoaters. At least waiting for them is better than painting all those tubes myself. I did receive the 2 videos that I ordered from Kolb the other day. The early days tape was a good history since I never saw the early designs. I wish there had been more footage of the factory "Hot Dog" pilots aerobatics (all done strictly in the name of testing of course ). On the subject of safety equipment, I'll probably install a 4 point harness in the front seat for a little better support. The other item I need to be considering is a helmet. How many people wear helmets in an enclosed plane like the SlingShot? I really don't want to wear one, but it's probably a good enough idea to be worth the discomfort and expense. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good model with headsets built in? Lastly, I got my expired medical renewed today. I should be good for 3 years now. I still need a biennial review, tailwheel endorsement, and checkout in something as light as the SlingShot. I'll start working on these items when I get a completion date in site for the plane. It looks like May is about the earliest I can hope for. Well, I guess that's it. If you've managed to make it this far, congratulations on your will to read boring drivel :-) -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 04, 1997
Subject: Mi pajina en espaol
Para los aficionados de Espaa, Colombia y Mxico que me han mandado cartas electronicas diciendo que les gusta mi pajina del internet agrege el texto en espaol. Para encontar mi pajina en el internet: http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html Una nota; yo no represento ni trabajo para la compaia Kolb nada mas soy un simple aficionado. Translation: For all the web browsers from Spain, Columbia and Mexico who have sent me e-mail telling me they like my FireStar building web site I have translated the Text in Spanish. To find my web page on the internet: http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html A note; I don't work or represent Kolb Aircraft Company, I'm just an amateur builder. Type to you later Will Uribe willu(at)aol.com http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 1997
From: may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish)
Subject: Re: Misc Rambling
At 5:33 PM 2/4/97, Russell Duffy wrote: [snip] The other item I >need to be considering is a helmet. How many people wear helmets in an >enclosed plane like the SlingShot? I really don't want to wear one, but >it's probably a good enough idea to be worth the discomfort and expense. >Does anyone have any recommendations for a good model with headsets >built in? > If you have the money, and want to wear a helmet that fits *perfectly*, a company out in CA called Flight Suits Unlimited makes fantastic form fitted helmets. If you get one, they send you a wax mold kit first. You heat it up and mash it over your head, then let it cool. Take a bunch of other measurements with their enclosed calipers, then stick it all back in the box and return it. A few weeks later you should have a great fitting helmet. Much better than the ones that have been foam poured, by the way. I wore one as a military pilot, for upwards of 10 hours a day, with no problems. Call directory services in San Diego and ask for the company, if you want to reach them. They *are* expensive, though. *********************************** Mike Yukish may106(at)psu.edu http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html (814) 863-7143 Applied Research Lab PO Box 30 State College, PA 16804 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 1997
From: chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu (Charles Henry)
Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup
>Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator >and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered >placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but >not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static" >tube shorter than the pitot tube? > >I had poor results with the static port (plugged tube and side 1/16" holes) in front at full throttle the ASI indicated 25 mph. I now have the static port out the bottom of the fairing, a plugged tube with a 1/16" hole in the center tie wrapped to the frame tube on the left side, this seems to at least give a consistant air speed with the short windshield or full enclosure. Charles Henry Hankinson ND ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 05, 1997
Subject: Re: Misc Rambling
You asked about helmets. I started out using one probably for the first 20 or 30 hours while I got comfortable with the plane. Then I stoped and just used a headset. It is not widely known but Dave Clark makes a helmet that a headset will fit into. It has cut outs at the ears and some snaps inside to hold the headset. It is shockingly expensive but a very nice thing. Whenever I took a small child up in the Kolb I would just toss my spare headset into the helmet and I felt like I was doing the right thing. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 1997
From: Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com>
Subject: Re: Misc Rambling
Please, please, please send me the address for the form-fitting helmet.\ Thanks On Wed, 5 Feb 1997, Mike Yukish wrote: > At 5:33 PM 2/4/97, Russell Duffy wrote: > [snip] > > The other item I > >need to be considering is a helmet. How many people wear helmets in an > >enclosed plane like the SlingShot? I really don't want to wear one, but > >it's probably a good enough idea to be worth the discomfort and expense. > >Does anyone have any recommendations for a good model with headsets > >built in? > > > > If you have the money, and want to wear a helmet that fits *perfectly*, a > company out in CA called Flight Suits Unlimited makes fantastic form fitted > helmets. If you get one, they send you a wax mold kit first. You heat it up > and mash it over your head, then let it cool. Take a bunch of other > measurements with their enclosed calipers, then stick it all back in the > box and return it. A few weeks later you should have a great fitting > helmet. Much better than the ones that have been foam poured, by the way. > > I wore one as a military pilot, for upwards of 10 hours a day, with no problems. > > Call directory services in San Diego and ask for the company, if you want > to reach them. They *are* expensive, though. > > > > *********************************** > Mike Yukish > > may106(at)psu.edu > http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html > (814) 863-7143 > > Applied Research Lab > PO Box 30 > State College, PA 16804 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 1997
From: may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish)
Subject: Re: Misc Rambling
At 4:27 PM 2/5/97, Bruce Schimmel wrote: >Please, please, please send me the address for the form-fitting helmet.\ >Thanks > > Flight Suits Unlimited 1675 Pioneer Way El Cajon, CA 92020 (619) 440-2700 figure on about $110.00 to get an existing helmet refurbished with form-fit and leather lining, soft ear cups. *********************************** Mike Yukish may106(at)psu.edu http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html (814) 863-7143 Applied Research Lab PO Box 30 State College, PA 16804 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 1997
From: "N.B. Del More" <ndelmore(at)warped.tiac.net>
Subject: Anyone out there?
Is anyone out there? Still working, very slowly, on my MK III. Although sometimes I think it will never be done. Rejoined the mailing list yesterday but haven't seen anything come through. Also wondering if messages of interest are being archived anywhere, especially those relating to the MK III. Noel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: EGT ?
I have a question about engine EGT and possible leakage. I have a 447 powered Firestar, and over the winter, the full power EGT has steadily climbed. I attributed it to the colder leaner air, but recently with a mild day, and still on my richest ever main jet and needle settings, my max egt would get upto 1300 (and so i would back off). I took things apart enf to chk for signs of intake or exhaust leaks at the intake and exhaust manifolds and found none. All bolts were tight. The anti-sieze goo in my exhaust pipe elbow fittings had mostly dried up -- entirely in parts. I'm thinking maybe I could've been getting air sucking back in here causing the leaner mixture and hotter EGT. Any one else ever experience this? If not this, then I'll have to take the top off and check the head gasket i guess. (head torque is okay) --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: ASI and static hookup -Reply
I'm building a MKIII and as I haven't had a chance to test my ideas but this is my 2 cents worth. Any surface that isn't perfectly alligned with the air flow will have a boundery layer of positive or negitive pressure. This boundery layer can be a number of inches thick in places and almost nonexistant in others. The trick to getting a good static source is to get the static tube outside of the boundery layer. Maybe Dennis Souder has suggestions on the best locations. I have mounted my static tube and pitot tube out the front of the nose cone. The actual end or sampling source is 3-4 inches infront of the nose cone. This maybe longer than necessary or too short, I will find out in flight testing. >>> "Daniel D. Bush" 02/04/97 12:07pm >>> Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static" tube shorter than the pitot tube? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com>
Subject: Attching fiberglass fairing
On a FSII, the prescribed way to attaching the fiberglass fairing is to rivet aft panel to two steel tabs, and use alumimun rivets spaced 2" on two cross-members underneath. (The aluminum is self-sealing -- same result would be sealed steel rivets.) Has anyone tried or thought about a scheme using u-bolts for the side tabs and machine screws (1/8", same size as rivets) loctited to the bottom cross members? Any structural, rust problems in doing this to allow removal of fiberglass fairing? Bruce Schimmel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 06, 1997
Subject: Re: EGT ?
I had a similar situation on the 503 on my mark 2. The Egt just kept going up and acted very counterintuitive. This happeded over a period of months. The engine and exhaust system checked out fine on pre-flight. Then one day the egts got so far out of hand I landed. I started looking over the plane on the ground and realized there was a hairline crack in the muffler that was not visible when the muffler was cold, but opened way up at 1200. The crack was sufficent to reduce the backpressure in the muffler and raise the egt. The crack was on the big 180 degree turn as the manifold comes around into the can. Those parts are just stampled out and welded on the edge. It cracked on the highest point in the radius. This, by the way, is the reason whay it is so important to have a good coating on the muffler, so you can see a crack if it happens. I recomend jet hot. 1-800-432-3379. Excellent stuff and much cheaper than plating. good luck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish)
Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup -Reply
At 9:08 AM 2/6/97, Richard Neilsen wrote: >I'm building a MKIII and as I haven't had a chance to >test my ideas but this is my 2 cents worth. Any >surface that isn't perfectly alligned with the air flow will >have a boundery layer of positive or negitive pressure. >This boundery layer can be a number of inches thick >in places and almost nonexistant in others. The trick >to getting a good static source is to get the static tube >outside of the boundery layer. Maybe Dennis Souder >has suggestions on the best locations. > Why expose it to the outside airstream? Why not stick it inside the fuselage, hidden right beneath the instrument panel? Have it measure the pressure inside the fuselage, where the airflow would be calmest? I would think that would give you your best ambient air pressure. Maybe surround the probe with one of those plastic mesh scouring pads, to shield it from any buffeting. *********************************** Mike Yukish may106(at)psu.edu http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html (814) 863-7143 Applied Research Lab PO Box 30 State College, PA 16804 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone out there?
N.B. Del More wrote: > > Is anyone out there? > > Still working, very slowly, on my MK III. Although sometimes I think it > will never be done. > > Rejoined the mailing list yesterday but haven't seen anything come through. > Also wondering if messages of interest are being archived anywhere, > especially those relating to the MK III. > > Noel I have MkIII with about 100 hours on it. I love it but I have some wishes. I wish the gear legs were longer to set the plane up higher.I fly out of a short downhill field and often have to do carrier landings as the plane keeps on floating with ground effect. The gear legs bend too easily. They are guaranteed to bend at gross weight under NORMAL CONDITIONS. I wish the throttle was in a better location.(I moved mine).I built 2 aluminum bins, one on either side of the fuel tanks. One is for storage and the other, which is open on the bottom, holds the chute in position to fire straight down between the tubes. Living in Hawaii I don't need a full enclosure. I built partial side windows which are a must for comfort. It looks like a helicopter. The 582 is barely adequate at gross weight but has enough power with 2 lightweight people. Terry Wells ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: ASI and static hookup -Reply
Date: Feb 06, 1997
The pitot system works off of a difference in air pressure and quite often the pressure inside the cabin is lower because of the slip stream of air going by all of the cracks and sucking cabin air out. In an open cockpit you could probably find areas of high pressure and areas of low pressure depending on where you measure. In a closed cabin with the static source inside you may be able to change you airspeed readings by opening and closing vents. that is why on general aviation aircraft the static source is almost always outside the aircraft and at a 90 degree angle to the flow of the air. There were earlier postings of someone who attached two tubes together with epoxy and plugged the end of the lower tube and drilled 2 1/32 inch holes one in each side. the upper tube was extended with a flexible coupling for the pressure source, this seems like it has a good chance of being accurate and will be how I build mine. The bottom line is you never know how accurate you airspeed indicator is going to be until you get a chance to test it. >---------- >From: may106(at)psu.edu@acuityinc.com[SMTP:may106(at)psu.edu@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Thursday, February 06, 1997 7:37 AM >To: Richard Neilsen >Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup -Reply > >At 9:08 AM 2/6/97, Richard Neilsen wrote: >>I'm building a MKIII and as I haven't had a chance to >>test my ideas but this is my 2 cents worth. Any >>surface that isn't perfectly alligned with the air flow will >>have a boundery layer of positive or negitive pressure. >>This boundery layer can be a number of inches thick >>in places and almost nonexistant in others. The trick >>to getting a good static source is to get the static tube >>outside of the boundery layer. Maybe Dennis Souder >>has suggestions on the best locations. >> > >Why expose it to the outside airstream? Why not stick it inside the >fuselage, hidden right beneath the instrument panel? Have it measure the >pressure inside the fuselage, where the airflow would be calmest? I would >think that would give you your best ambient air pressure. Maybe surround >the probe with one of those plastic mesh scouring pads, to shield it from >any buffeting. > > >*********************************** >Mike Yukish > >may106(at)psu.edu >http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html >(814) 863-7143 > >Applied Research Lab >PO Box 30 >State College, PA 16804 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup
On Tue, 4 Feb 1997, Daniel D. Bush wrote: > Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator > and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered > placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but > not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static" > tube shorter than the pitot tube? Hi Daniel, I fly a Firestar KXP and have added no routing of the static port. That is, it is simply open on the back of the airspeed gauge, which is mounted in a normal location on my FG panel. I get very accurate IAS readings at all speeds. Somebody else commented about mounting the static line outside the boundary layer. Maybe this was a typo?. Air velocity and pressures relative to the plane are high OUTSIDE the boundary layer. That is why we use long enf pitot tubes ...to get the frontal air intake OUT of the boundary layer. With the static line we want to do just the opposite, i.e. simply measure ambient barometric pressure. (btw, i'm not an engineer) --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Terry Wells' comments on 582 power and landing gear.
Terry: Are your gear legs the 7075 aluminum, tapered from about 1.5 inches down to maybe 1 inch at the wheel end (same as mine, purchased from Kolb 1 year ago this month)? What do you call your gross weight, at which they bend apparently easily? This worries me. I had recurrant gear problems with the last ultra-like plane I owned and never really solved them. About the 582 power: I assume they all come with dual carbs, this would make a small difference. I assume you are flying from almost sea-level. Have you done any main jet experiments to be sure you are getting all the power available? If you have a local expert to consult, you may get more power if it is jetted incorrectly. You have prob'ly already gone thru that. What ratio and prop are you using, diameter, pitch, redrive box, etc. Maybe I should be pricing the 618 instead... Terry, thanks for sharing your experience! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: Clive Hatcher <100045.2144(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: MARK III operation
I have recently purchased a seconhand Kolb Twinstar MARK-III (3 years old) in the UK. The engine is the Rotax 582. Having contacted Kolb, Dan Kurkjian has suggested that I contact this group to see if somebody can advise me on the best techniques for short field operation and engine out landings etc. My experience to date is 650 Hrs on 3-axis aircraft (most of this on sailplanes) 200 Hrs of this is on Ultralights and 7 Hrs on the MARK-III. I would also appreciate any help or advice you have to offer on the operation or maintenance of this aircraft. Best regards, Clive Hatcher. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us>
Date: Feb 06, 1997
Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup -Reply
Hello fellow Kolbers, > Why expose it to the outside airstream? Why not stick it inside the > fuselage, hidden right beneath the instrument panel? Have it measure > the pressure inside the fuselage, where the airflow would be > calmest? I would think that would give you your best ambient air > pressure. Maybe surround the probe with one of those plastic mesh > scouring pads, to shield it from any buffeting. As I have said before, this will not work. With an open cockpit, you will get a negative air pressure inside the cockpit, and if you remove the doors or open a vent ect. you will again change the pressure inside the cockpit, therefore changing the readings on your ASI. Any manufactured plane has the static port on the outside of the aircraft. This does not cause buffeting and that is not a problem. As I have said before, my father and I took a tube and pounded the end into a point. We left just a little hole in the end of the tube. We then put the tube through the bottom of the nose cone perpendicular to the airflow, and then we attached the static line to the other end of the tube. It is a clean instalation. Only about 3/4" of the tube sticks out. The airspeed reads correctly. That is how we solved the problem. We did try flying the plane without hooking up an external source. It DID NOT work. We got high airspeed readings. Brandon Kearbey | Kolb | - - - - Mark III [][]-| - - - - N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey . / | / | bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe. . \_______/ |-----------/-----| butte.k12.ca.us (_____________//----------------\^ / o ( )Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 1997
From: Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net>
Subject: Re: Terry Wells' comments on 582 power and landing gear.
Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote: > > Terry: Are your gear legs the 7075 aluminum, tapered from about 1.5 inches > down to maybe 1 inch at the wheel end (same as mine, purchased from Kolb > 1 year ago this month)? What do you call your gross weight, at which they > bend apparently easily? This worries me. I had recurrant gear problems > with the last ultra-like plane I owned and never really solved them. > About the 582 power: I assume they all come with dual carbs, this would > make a small difference. I assume you are flying from almost sea-level. > Have you done any main jet experiments to be sure you are getting all the > power available? If you have a local expert to consult, you may get more > power if it is jetted incorrectly. You have prob'ly already gone thru that. > What ratio and prop are you using, diameter, pitch, redrive box, etc. > Maybe I should be pricing the 618 instead... > > Terry, thanks for sharing your experience! Gee! I didn't mean to sound so negative on the 582. I weigh 220 lbs and my son who sometimes flies with me weighs 230 lbs. The airplane weighs 475 plus fuel so thats asking a lot of such a lightweight engine. Climb performance is just adaquate for safety on a long runway. The speed difference between stall and max cruise rpm is only a few knots which doesn't give a student much margin. This is not necessarily the fault of the engine but of a high drag airframe. Increasing the horsepower won't do as much keeping it light. I should listen to my own advise! Regarding the gear legs, I don't think mine are 7075. I've been using steel tube legs for about a year now. Does anyone know if Kolb changed materials? How can I tell what the temper is? I'd rather use the alum as they are lighter. Terry Wells ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Jet Hot
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > I recomend jet hot. 1-800-432-3379. Excellent stuff > and much cheaper than plating. good luck I've heard of coatings to keep the mufflers from rusting. Is that the primary purpose of Jet Hot? Is this something you apply yourself without any special equipment, or do you have to send the muffler somewhere to have it done? Thanks, -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: It's coming!
Hi again, Just found out my cage and engine shipped yesterday! I even put the tracking number into ABF's online tracking page (http://www.abfs.com/ontrace.htm) and found out that it's due to arrive on the 13th. It's almost building time again! My prop showed up and was wrong as expected. I called up LEAF and they sent the correct hub right out no questions asked. I'll send back the standard adjust hub when the quick adjust arrives next week. Still haven't heard from Grand Rapids though. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 1997
From: "Peter Volum" <IBIMIAMI(at)msn.com>
N.B. Del More"
Subject: RE: Anyone out there?
Hi Noel, I get a flood of messages every day, so if you are coming up dry, there must be something wrong. I wrote a long note about my progress (and frustrations) with my own Mk III some time ago, but it kept coming back to me as undeliverable. If you are interested, tell me your own eMail address and I'll send it to you directly. Where are you building? How far along are you? Peter Volum mvolum(at)msn.com or ibimiami(at)msn.com ---------- ---------- From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of N.B. Del More Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 1997 7:20 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Anyone out there? Is anyone out there? Still working, very slowly, on my MK III. Although sometimes I think it will never be done. Rejoined the mailing list yesterday but haven't seen anything come through. Also wondering if messages of interest are being archived anywhere, especially those relating to the MK III. Noel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com>
Subject: List archive available via world wide web
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Many of you have recently asked about a list archive. Tonight I threw together a quick month-by-month archive; this was the easiest thing to do quickly. Eventually I hope to offer searching and the ability to browse a month at a time. But, the archives only go back 1 year right now so I think you would all rather have the archives online in some form rather than wait until I have time to add the cool stuff. The URL is: http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/ I have not been able to try this URL from outside my company, please let me know if you can not hit it. The archive is currently *not* updated in real time. I will have to create a cron job that does this once a night or so ... it's not in place at the moment Enjoy, -- Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com (817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Subject: aileron gap seals
I have researched this a bit and talked to many builders and after I have looked into sticky clear tape, etc I plan to use the fabric and glue them on the wings. However, how has everybody else finished them. Do you glue them on and leave the fabric bare, do you poly brush them to fill the weave, then paint them. I am fortunate because my plane is white so its no big deal. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Gap seals (empennage seals)
>I have researched this a bit and talked to many builders and after I have >looked into sticky clear tape, etc I plan to use the fabric and glue them on >the wings. However, how has everybody else finished them. Do you glue them on >and leave the fabric bare, do you poly brush them to fill the weave, then >paint them. I am fortunate because my plane is white so its no big deal. >tim Tim... This is what I did which is not according to the plans. I have 4 flap hinges therefore could not lay the gap seal strips under the hinge flaps. I attached strips between the hinges rather than one long piece under the hinges. It makes application much easier in that you don't have to remove each hinge as you apply the seals. Some would say that the several pieces instead of one would make it easier for a piece to peel off and maybe get into the prop. Others would say that it doesn't look as nice. I think mine look good and are very firmly attached and the likelihood of peeling is nil. I used the 2" wide finishing tape and attached the strips to the bare surface of the wing and control surfaces allowing just a little dip in the span down to the hinge line to allow for hinge bending. I then filled the weave and finally painted all surfaces. I also made gap seals for the empennage by sewing together two narrow strips (maybe 1" wide together down the middle. I then cut pieces long enough to ("pop into" - meaning that the strips more or less self centered themselves when slipped into) the gaps between the hinges on the rudder and elevators. I then painted a little Polytac under each leg of the seal and glued them down and Polybrushed over all before painting. The only precaution is to make sure the sewed line is in line with the hinge line so the gap seal when flexed by the control surface does not pull a glued leg loose. If that should happen, just reglue allowing a little more room for movement. Now that turned out looking really nice. On another subject. I just looked at the archives. They go back to April of 1996. It is a great reference for everyone. Later, -- Cliff / Carolyn Stripling | He - Kolb MkIII builder 100% N582CC striplic(at)dfw.net | She - Dallas residential real estate broker (972) 247-9821 - FAX 1775 | Both - R/V & travel enthusiasts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rallynq(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup
I just glued 2 1/4 aluminum tubes together with epoxy, one 1 1/2 inch shorter than the other. The shorter one, I plugged with epoxy. On the shorter one, drill 3 1/16th inch holes on each side. Stick it straight out through the nose cone 6-8 inches. On the inside of the nose cone attach it with plastic tubings so it won't get bent by people running or walking into it. It worked well for me. Mike Alexander ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com>
Subject: FW: ASI and static hookup
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Well, count me in with the group that simply left the static ports of both the ASI and the altimeter open on the back. Actually, I cut a small piece of open-cell (breathable) foam to stuff into each, to keep out mud daubers. Obviously, it won't be have the absolute accuracy of a well-placed static port. But it's all relative. After flying the plane for a while, I know what the indicated cruise and stall speeds are. As long as they're repeatable, who cares if they're 4 or 5 mph "wrong?" For my pitot tube, I took a male BNC connector, drilled the guts out, and epoxied a PVC tube fitting to the back. I mounted the BNC connector right through a hole on the front of the fairing, and ran a plastic tube to the ASI. My pitot cover is a 75 Ohm thinwire Ethernet terminator! -Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 1997
From: may106(at)psu.edu (Mike Yukish)
Subject: Re: FW: ASI and static hookup
At 5:04 PM 2/8/97, Steve Bennett wrote: >Well, count me in with the group that simply left the static ports of both the >ASI and the altimeter open on the back. Actually, I cut a small piece of >open-cell (breathable) foam to stuff into each, to keep out mud daubers. > It would be cool if, next time you go flying, note your altimeter prior to takeoff. Then keep noting it on your takeoff roll and after liftoff, staying just off the ground as long as you can. See if the altitude varies, indicating fluctuations in the cockpit pressure due to airflow effects. It would be a useful piece of information. *********************************** Mike Yukish may106(at)psu.edu http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html (814) 863-7143 Applied Research Lab PO Box 30 State College, PA 16804 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Subject: Re: aileron gap seals
The p[oly brush will just make a mess. I glued the fabric in place and then carefully brushed polytone on the fabric gap seal. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Subject: Re: Gap seals (empennage seals)
Nice point made here. I put gap seals on the tail on the mark 2, despite th fact the factory did not call for them. It had a couple of interesting effects. First there was a little bit of a vibration that happened in the elevator when I dove the plane near red line. Second, the mark 2 had a trim tab and the gap seal made it much more effective. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Subject: Re: ASI and static hookup
Henry) writes: << Have decided to install the "static" line for the Air Speed Indicator >and wondered if anyone has an idea for placement? Have considered >placing it under the pitot tube coming out of the Firstar II fairing but >not sure of how to make it look "professional". Also, is the "static" >tube shorter than the pitot tube? >> I made a static port in the side of the fuselage cage (one on each side) with a plastic insert fitting I found at the hardware store. The installation is almost invisibel and by having a port on each side I get very consistant readings on ASI & altimeter. Run a plastic line from the static ports on your ASI & altimeter to the rear of the cage. Insert a T in the line run line to the sides of the cage. Pick a flat spot and melt a small hole in the fabric, insert the end fitting from the outside and hook to the line and you have a good static system. Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 1997
Subject: Re: Terry Wells' comments on 582 power and landing gear.
<< Gee! I didn't mean to sound so negative on the 582. I weigh 220 lbs and my son who sometimes flies with me weighs 230 lbs. The airplane weighs 475 plus fuel so thats asking a lot of such a lightweight engine. Climb performance is just adaquate for safety on a long runway. The speed difference between stall and max cruise rpm is only a few knots which doesn't give a student much margin. This is not necessarily the fault of the engine but of a high drag airframe. Increasing the horsepower won't do as much keeping it light. >> Terry: I fly my Mark III with a 582 at gross often (sometimes over). I have found that for good performance I must have my prop pitched to give me 6500 RPM on takeoff. With that I get off the ground in about 700 feet and climb at about 500 FPM. Also, cruise speed is 65mph @ 5800 and power off stall is about 40 at full gross. This is on a warm summer day. Last year at an ultralight fly-in I took up an EAA cameraman (weight 240) and myself (225) and a 40 lb video camera and battery. The numbers quoted above are what I had that day. If I over pitch my prop to get 6000 RPM on takeoff, my performance is much worse. ie: 1500ft ground roll, 200 FPM climb. Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 1997
From: "Peter Volum" <IBIMIAMI(at)msn.com>
Subject: WWW
The web site works fine Jeff. Great work!! Peter Volum ---------- From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of Jeff Stripling Sent: Saturday, February 08, 1997 5:01 AM Subject: Kolb-List: List archive available via world wide web Many of you have recently asked about a list archive. Tonight I threw together a quick month-by-month archive; this was the easiest thing to do quickly. Eventually I hope to offer searching and the ability to browse a month at a time. But, the archives only go back 1 year right now so I think you would all rather have the archives online in some form rather than wait until I have time to add the cool stuff. The URL is: http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/ I have not been able to try this URL from outside my company, please let me know if you can not hit it. The archive is currently *not* updated in real time. I will have to create a cron job that does this once a night or so ... it's not in place at the moment Enjoy, -- Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com (817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology" --JAA22267.855509481/upsmot01.msn.com-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 1997
From: "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com>
Subject: Strange Kolb Model
A member of my club showed me a photo of an ultralight he said was a 1988 Kolb Sport. It sort of looked like a Kolb. It had a Kolb tail, and the wing, pod and fuselage area looked Kolb. However, the tail boom went to the top of the cage. Mounted to the back of the cage were TWO single cylindereRotax engines, 277's I would guess. It also had two wing struts on each side. My friend is considering purchasing it. Can anyone give me more information on it? Thanks. *************************************************************** * Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the * * MICOM Communications * shiny side * * Simi Valley, CA * up. * *************************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Archive Hits
To All... As of today there have been over 500 inquiries on the Kolb Archive records. Evidently, it is already pretty popular with everyone. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: aileron gap seals
On Sat, 8 Feb 1997 Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote: > I have researched this a bit and talked to many builders and after I have > looked into sticky clear tape, etc I plan to use the fabric and glue them on > the wings. However, how has everybody else finished them. Do you glue them on > and leave the fabric bare, do you poly brush them to fill the weave, then > paint them. I am fortunate because my plane is white so its no big deal. > tim I went straight per plans on this, and final finish was no different from the rest of the wing ...just polybrush and paint. Works fine. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: aileron gap seals -Reply
My 2 cents worth. Dennis Souder showed me at Oskosh last summer the latest factory technique for gap seals. They use clear book binding tape that you can buy at most any office supply store. They stick the tape on with an additional layer of tape applied sticky side to sticky in the area that you don't stick to anything. This is the way I'm going to do my MKIII. Richard Neilsen VW powered MKIII 94% done ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: aileron gap seals, clarification
On Mon, 10 Feb 1997, Richard Neilsen wrote: > clear book binding tape that you can buy at most any > office supply store. They stick the tape on with an Yesterday I said i did my aileron gap seals per plans and it works great. If the Kolb method has changed to adhesive tape, i guess i should clarify that when I built my KXP, the plans method was Stits fabric seals and polytac. That's what i used. I've not liked the use of adhesive backed velcro, and would think that other sticky backed products might be as bad. It just doesn't hold up much more than a summer. Admittedly, summers are *hot* here in the northern CA valley. Also, where the adhesive moves slightly, the sticky residue left behind attracts a gooey line of dirt. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Mk III control stick travel question
Mark III, kit vintage Jan 1996... I assembled the control stick and push/pull tube with rod ends to the elevator bellcrank yesterday. Problem: The stick moves approx 25 degrees from stop-to-stop side-to-side (limited by the aileron stops on rear aileron bellcrank which contacts the fuselage tube). The elevator rod ends each allow maybe 7 degrees of rotation. If I tighten the rod end jamb nuts on both ends of the elevator push-pull tube, the aileron range is cut in half and does not touch the aileron stops (nowhere close!). The jamb nut on one end must be loosened to provide full range side-to-side. I even tried making some special small washers to place next to the rod-end balls to allow more travel without rod-end housing contact. Maybe my aileron stops allow too much travel. I installed lexan pieces on the rear aileron bellcrank to stop the rotation of the bellcrank about an inch from contact with the fuselage tube, as described in a telephone conversation with Dennis Souder a few months back. This keeps the aileron linkages from going overcenter and locking up (a bad thing). How much aileron travel is needed, measured in inches as the manual describes the elevator travel? Should I re-make the aileron stops or allow the elevator bellcrank rod end to ride loose on the threads? Thanks, Jim. 85% complete if you don't count the engine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CCHIEPPA(at)umassd.edu
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: FS II Battery Locations
Hello All, Is there any one spot on the FS II that 1 or 2 batteries have been placed ? In the past I have seen only one FS II & the battery was just foward of the engine location & at the same general elevation. For my FS II I was thinking of using two smaller 6 volt batteries in series. Any ideas for the best weight & balance ? What are the locations you have used ? See Ya Charles ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 10, 1997
Subject: Re: aileron gap seals -Reply
For what it is worth the Challenger guys have been using that system with the wide clear tape for a while. A buddy of mine tried it on his Challenger and it lasted two seasons. By the end the tape was yellowed and cracked and where it peeled off the remaining adhesive picked up dirt. It was almost impossible to get off and looked like hell when it did come off. Using thinned down polytack and reinforcing tape is a bigger pain in the butt but it lasts longer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: aileron gap seals -Reply
Richard Neilsen wrote: > Dennis Souder showed me at Oskosh last summer > the latest factory technique for gap seals. They use > clear book binding tape that you can buy at most any > office supply store. They stick the tape on with an > additional layer of tape applied sticky side to sticky in > the area that you don't stick to anything. Adding my 2 cents, This is what I'm planning to do as well. I've heard people say that this method didn't last long, but Dennis said their planes were holding up fine. In the R&R video, they applied the fabric seals before painting, and Randy told me that it was awkward trying to handle the wing with the ailerons attached during the painting steps. Also, if you're one of those people (like me) that plans to make your hinge pins removable, you won't want a gap seal that can't be easily removed and replaced later. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Jet hot
In response to your recent queston about jet hot coatings: I put 135 hours on a mark 2 and spent alot of time trying to find a satisfactory coating for the muffler. The black paint that it came with flaked off in a few hours. I tried some high temp gas grill paint, which lasted a while but flaked off after a bit as well. I have a friend in the plating buisness so I had the whole thing nickel plated. It looked great for a few months, but then the plating began to darken and ultimately began to come off. I'd say I got fifty hours out of it. (Which translates into about $4.00 worth of plating per hour of opperating time) My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success. The guy I sold my plane to has put 70 hours on it. The coating, which looks like low polished aluminum looks perfect. No darkening, no flaking. The entire three piece muffler cost $110.00 to do. It took a week and they give you a guarentee. call them at 800 432-3379. Get their literature. They make most of their money coating trick exhoust systems for race cars. I really can't say enough good things about them, their product looks great and it works. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: jlbaker(at)telepath.com (Jim Baker)
Subject: Re: FS II Battery Locations
I placed mine on the tail boom just behind the fuel tank tray. The battery sits in a battery box and is held in place with a strap that I made. The strap uses a wide length of nylon tow strap (the wider the better). The ends of the strap captured a suitable length of steel rod that would fit through the eye of an aircraft grade turnbuckle (AN 140 or 135) with cable eyes or pin eyes. The eye pieces have the steel rod run through them and then the whole assembly is sewn into the end of the nylon strap and captured there. | | | | |_/_/_/| |__||__| || || || Then you just put the battery box on the fuse boom with some neoprene sheet padding under the box, run the strap around the tube and the box and turn the turnbuckle tube till its snug and the box won't move or slide. I machined a small turnbuckle pin lock out of aluminum. The pin is turned down to fit the hole in the turnbuckle barrel while the other end is about 1/4 to 3/8 in diameter. The small end of the pin is drilled for a small cowling safety pin or a lock pin. This way I always have the tool I need to remove or tighten the strap and it keeps the turnbuckle secure. I was using a 17 AH battery but went to a 26 AH battery. My datum distance to the battery is 32 inches and the battery weight is 22 LBS. CG is 34.07% with 180 LB pilot. These figures are for the standard FS2 configuration. The other thing I've done is to make an aluminum tray that bolts into the passenger seat location. I carry two five gallon gas tanks and since they are closer to the datum (14 inches vs 28 for the normal tank location) the extra weight is cancelled in terms of CG (don't forget gross weight though..course you won't be anywhere near gross this way). Hope this helps. Jim Baker Elmore City OK > >Hello All, >Is there any one spot on the FS II that 1 or 2 batteries have been placed ? >In the past I have seen only one FS II & the battery was just foward of the >engine location & at the same general elevation. For my FS II I was thinking >of using two smaller 6 volt batteries in series. Any ideas for the best >weight & balance ? What are the locations you have used ? > > See Ya > Charles > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com>
Subject: Exhaust System Coatings / High Temperature
There are at least two high quality, reputable coaters which provide VERY durable high temp finishes for exhaust systems. The previously mentioned Jet-Hot coating is a very sharp looking finish that resembles chrome but is actually a ceramic base that is baked on. Jet-Hot offers a limited color selection of black and chrome-like. Another equally good outfit is High Performance Coatings. This, again, is an outfit which caters heavily to the racing and show vehicle community. The coating materials are equally durable with a couple of advantages over Jet-Hot. This advantage is color selection. If you want to more closely color coordinate your exhaust system to the rest of the planes paint scheme they have a broader color selection. Their chrome-like finish also has a brighter luster as opposed to Jet-Hot's more "brushed" chrome look. I first learned of these coatings when I saw the St. Louis County Police chopper on display at an airshow with the engine on display. All of the exhaust ducting looked freshly painted with a chrome-like finish and no signs of heat discoloration at all. I was totally floored when I found out that the finish had already been in service hundreds of hours at turbine temperatures. Made a believer out of me! I have done a bunch of exhaust systems with both coaters and highly recommend them both. Jet-Hot Coatings 55 E. Front St. Bridgeport PA 19405 800-432-3379 High Performance Coatings 3615 So. 550 West Murray UT 84115 800-456-4721 Happy Flying! KZ (MK3 builder) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: Exhaust System Coatings / High Temperature
Some excellent additional information there. I think the important thing not to lose sight of is that in a two stroke engine a crack in the muffler has serious effects on engine performance and opperating temperature. You want a good coating, from whoever, so that if you have a crack or a leak it will show up a dark spot or stain on the assembly and you will pick it up on the preflight. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: Another Exhaust Coating Option
Date: Feb 11, 1997
I haven't "cured" my coating, which I purchased from Techline (http://dm.deskmedia.com/~techline/cat-1.html). This Black Satin stuff is very expensive at $5/ounce, but I coated both my 912 mufflers with just two ounces. So, at $20 for the 4 oz bottle, it seems like one of the cheaper solutions. It doesn't need to be baked on, you just run the engine after coating. You DO need to sandblast the mufflers, and you need a touch-up gun. BTW (to save posting space), I've had good experience with Grand Rapids Technologies. I haven't posted anything in a while, but newcomers can see pictures of my Mark III on http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/index.htm and http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Jet hot
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success. Chalk up another victim to the legal system :-( After hearing this testimonial, I picked up the phone and called Jet Hot. I was told that a couple years ago, the lawyers and insurance people got together and said they can't touch any more aircraft parts. I asked "What if I don't say what it's for". He said they would refuse to do it if they recognized the parts, unless you give them something in writing that says it isn't for aircraft use. Rats! Thanks anyway. It still might be a possibility. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Jet hot
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Send them a letter stating that it is not for aircraft use, you get your muffler and they have something to put in their file to make the lawyers happy. This is not a uncommon thing to run across. >---------- >From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 9:06 AM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com; Cavuontop(at)aol.com >Subject: Re: Jet hot > >Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > >> My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success. > > >Chalk up another victim to the legal system :-( After hearing this >testimonial, I picked up the phone and called Jet Hot. I was told that >a couple years ago, the lawyers and insurance people got together and >said they can't touch any more aircraft parts. I asked "What if I don't >say what it's for". He said they would refuse to do it if they >recognized the parts, unless you give them something in writing that >says it isn't for aircraft use. Rats! > >Thanks anyway. It still might be a possibility. >-- >Russell Duffy >rad(at)pen.net >http://www.pen.net/~rad/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: Jet hot
> > In response to your recent queston about jet hot coatings: > > My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success. The > guy I sold my plane to has put 70 hours on it. The coating, which looks > like > low polished aluminum looks perfect. No darkening, no flaking. The entire > three piece muffler cost $110.00 to do. It took a week and they give you a > guarentee. call them at 800 432-3379. Get their literature. They make > most of their money coating trick exhoust systems for race cars. I really > can't say enough good things about them, their product looks great and it > works. > Hmmmm.....I called them today and when I told them I was interested in having a UL muffler treated I was told "No way!". Their insurance carrier says no UL customers. However, I asked if I called back for the treatment for my "airboat" there would be no problem. So, I was told that the three pieces for my Rotax 447 would cost about $200, there would be about a 3-day turnaround, and they have a 3 year warrantee on the resultant coating. IMHO, $200 will buy a lot of sandblasting and black heat-resistant paint. Of course, that routine lasts me only abot 6 months or so (25 hrs.), but I make that part of my usual 25-hr. inspection, etc. Charlie Kirtland ulflyer(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com>
Subject: RE: ASI and static hookup
Date: Feb 11, 1997
>It would be cool if, next time you go flying, note your altimeter prior to >takeoff. Then keep noting it on your takeoff roll and after liftoff, >staying just off the ground as long as you can. See if the altitude varies, >indicating fluctuations in the cockpit pressure due to airflow effects. It >would be a useful piece of information. >*********************************** >Mike Yukish Good idea. I tried it a couple of times this past weekend and can report that there is absolutely NO variation in indicated altitude with airspeed change. I'm sure that there is a change in the static pressure with airspeed, it's just that the range of speeds is so small that it just doesn't seem to affect the altimeter. -Steve PS - Right now we've got perfect winter flying conditions. All the ice around here is at least 8 inches thick, and there's virtually no snow cover. I've been landing on all the lakes and ponds in the area, having a blast. New England flying isn't ALL bad... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JakeD81(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Kolb Ultralights
Hi, My name is Jacob Dinsmore and I am from Bakersfield Ca. Ever since I was a kid I have always had a fascination for Ultralights. This summer I'm hoping to get some flying lessons. I am 15 and this summer I want to save up for one of Kolb's Firefly kits. They look Awsome! The Firefly looks hot just sitting still, and I'm going to work my butt off to get one! Thanks, Jacob Dinsmore P.S. To all the people that work at Kolb- Your Ultralights are Rule! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: jlbaker(at)telepath.com (Jim Baker)
Subject: Re: Jet hot
$110.00 to do. It took a week and they give you a >guarentee. How about High Performance Coatings.....$50 and a guarantee. West Coast Salt Lake City 801-262-6807 Central Oklahoma City 405-789-2888 East Coast Manchester CT 203-647-9963 They have some other neat processes that may warrant your attention (how about ceramic coated piston tops?). Jim Baker Elmore City Ok ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 1997
Subject: Re: Jet hot
Here is the story on the $200.00 quote. When I first called Jet Hot up to coat my muffler they threw me a number like that over the phone. A rotax muffler is hard to describe and they didn't want to commit over the phone to a price they might later regret. So we took it to the factory, when they actually took a look at it they did the muffler can, the elbow, and the Y for around $110.00. A couple of my buddies have called them up and got the same story, so I gave them my Jet-Hot invoice number, and they said it was the same parts as mine and they got the same price. I will dig in my file for the invoice number and try to post it here. If I can't find it, you can tell them to look in their database for an invoice for Mark Sellers. I had two complete three piece roatx mufflers done, plus the kolb-made brakets that hold the 582 muffer assembly on a Mark three, plus the clamp straps that go around the muffler. It all looks great. You are right that you can buy alot of grill paint for that money. But I have had the experience of standing in the parking lot of my local EAA barn with the sandblaster on a perfect saturday morning working on my muffler while my buddies went by overhead. In 135 hours on my Mark 2 I had to blast and repaint the muffler three times. I'd rather be flying. Plus this coating looks very good. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 1997
From: HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark)
Subject: Re: RE: Re: Jet hot
kolb(at)intrig.com (internet!intrig.com!kolb), rad(at)pen.net (Russell Duffy) It's for a snowmobile engine ---------- From: Russell Duffy Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Jet hot Date: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 11:06PM Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > My next attempt was jet hot which I think was a total success. Chalk up another victim to the legal system :-( After hearing this testimonial, I picked up the phone and called Jet Hot. I was told that a couple years ago, the lawyers and insurance people got together and said they can't touch any more aircraft parts. I asked "What if I don't say what it's for". He said they would refuse to do it if they recognized the parts, unless you give them something in writing that says it isn't for aircraft use. Rats! Thanks anyway. It still might be a possibility. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: tec94209(at)mech.port.ac.uk
Date: Feb 12, 1997
Subject: Microlites
Please could you send me data on ergonomics used with microlites, e.g seating positions, control positions, and setting up and packing away. Also can you send me info. on standard instruments and control instruments. I would be very happy if you could help me with this task. Thank you. (__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and (oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the /-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an / | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was * ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it ^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world. Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: " Brad Blackburn" <cave(at)ldd.net>
Subject: KOLB exhaust coatings
Date: Feb 12, 1997
A fellow UL pilot uses "cold galvanize" that comes in a spray can and is made by LPS. It gives the muffler a gray color. I started using it because it holds up a lot better than header paint even though the can says it's rated to 750f. It's also cheap. You do need to sandblast before applying. Brad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: Empty weight of a MKIII
Date: Feb 12, 1997
Could one of you folks out there running a rotax 912 let me know the empty weight of your airplane? Please include weather you have a parachute and how much instrumentation, or any other unusual heavy items. Thanks Jason ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 1997
From: Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com>
Subject: Dual Controls
Has anybody seen a good approach to dual controls on the Mark III Thanks Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 12, 1997
Subject: Re: Empty weight of a MKIII
Last time I looked the factory was running a 912. Why not give Dennis a call. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 12, 1997
Subject: Re: Dual Controls
I think a better question is why? I thought long and hard about dual controls, both throttle and stick. And after thinking about it I just decided not to change a thing. Keep in mind that these planes are hard enough to get in and out of. With dual controls you would have to swing your inboard leg over the stick and 2 times out of 10 you would probably catch your pants on the throttle if you had it mounted on the edge of the frame. When I sold my Mark 2 the guy who bought it was an instructor who planned to use it exclusively for teaching. His one big problem with the plane was the center stick and throttle. After a few hours he told me he wouldn't switch to dual controls now if he could get it for free. Why not live with the plane as designed for a while before you bite off a big design change? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 12, 1997
Subject: more jet hot testomonial
I recently had my exhaust done at Jet Hot, I never told them it was for an aircraft but just said it was for a Rotax exhaust. It looks great and they were quick and a pleasure to deal with. Why offer them any more information then needed. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net>
Subject: OIL INJECTION
I AM SEEKING INFORMATION ABOUT THE USE OF OIL INJECTION ON THE ROTAX 503.I HAVE A FIRESTAR II.THE BRS IS MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE WING IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE.DOES ANYBODY HAVE THE KOLB OIL TANK AND BRACKET AND WHERE DOES IT MOUNT. THANKS BENNY WHITEHEAD FIRESTAR II N226JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Tommie Templeton <tommie(at)apex.net>
Subject: Cold Galvanizing by LPS
Just my 2cents worth. I have been using this stuff for years and never had any bad results from it. Always sand blast your parts. Shake thoroughly then some to make sure all the particles are mixed. Spray on and let dry. Never found anything to compare with it in 25 years. Tommie Templeton tommie(at)apex.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Chuck Cullen <chuck(at)kronites.kronos.com>
Subject: re: Dual Controls
> Has anybody seen a good approach to dual controls on the Mark III We replaced the stick on our Mark III with a simple Y shaped stick so that each pilot has grip somewhat in front of them. It's not ideal but I am told I will get used to it (I have not flown our Mark III yet). I think John Haulk (sp?) had a better solution. I'm talking about the Mark III that was flown around the perimeter of the U.S. I have only seen pictures of that Mark III in magzines but it looked like a "true" dual control arrangment. I would think Kolb has the details. chuck(at)kronos.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com>
Subject: Re: Strange Kolb Model
My thanks to all that responded to help me identify an early Kolb design. With that help I have found out it is a Kolb Flyer and is equipped with twin Solo 21 engines. If my friend does decide to purchase it, I will look forward to giving it a detailed exam. Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be shipped over several years? Thanks. *************************************************************** * Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the * * MICOM Communications * shiny side * * Simi Valley, CA * up. * *************************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Strange Kolb Model
> Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other > type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date > supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what > about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be > shipped over several years? Thanks. For an airplane it seems it would be the date of issue for the airworthiness certificate. For a vehicle, i dunno ...should we ask the DMV? Boy, wonder where that kind of question would get you! :) I'd use date of 1st flight, but of course i see no reason not to include info such as date of kit purchase and completion. BTW, when did Kolb offer the Flyer as a kit, or was it just offered as plans? '79-81? --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Feb 13, 1997
Subject: Re[2]: Jet hot
Here's another place that does a coating process which seems to hold up. I am not sure which process they use but it sand blast, coat, bake type application which seems to hold up. Tri-Star Performance Coatings 418 Jesse Grand Prairie TX 214-641-3801 (May be a 972 area code instead of 214) A friend had his done there, it been run a couple years and still looks good. I think his cost was around $85.00 at that time. Don't mention airplane, the cost goes up. Use dune buggy, air boat or some thing like that. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Muffler Coatings
Hi, We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but do they actually perform a practical function other than making your exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening, though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out, it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the coating will help much. Am I missing the point? -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rallynq(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 1997
Subject: Seat for Fire Star I
Does any body have a good seat for Firestar I? I have trouble with the back of mine bending. Mike Alexander Upstate NY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Let there be SlingShot
Greetings, Well, it's finally here. I haven't unpacked anything yet, but I can already see that the powdercoating is beautiful. It seems smaller than I remembered it though. Dennis had warned me that the landing gear legs would be shipping later, but otherwise, I think it's all hear. I'll spend the afternoon unpacking all the boxes. I did finally get my EIS after bugging Grand Rapids a few times. They even included the remote switch option for free. I have about another month to wait on the BRS, but everything else is here except for paint and misc things that I don't know I need yet. I swapped the IVO standard hub, for the quick adjust too. One humorous side note: I already have my ELT sitting in it's box on the floor. As you know, these things are made to survive plane crashes. With that in mind, I couldn't help but laugh when I noticed the writing on the box that says "Fragile. Do not drop". Boy, the UPS guys must be rough :-) -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 1997
From: Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca>
Subject: C.B. Radios
HI My friend and I plan to install C.B. radios on our Kolb Ultralights. I have a Mark111 and my friend has a Firestar. I have a 582 with electronic ignition and the Firestar has a 447 with point ignition. Please advise us on where to install the antennas and if special ignition shielding is required. Thanks Kim Steiner Saskatchewan Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 16, 1997
Subject: met in north Dallas
Sorry I do not remember your name, but I flew in to the field where you were taxi testing your Firestar on Sunday morning in a J# Cub, and your student s build your plane. I am from Shreveport, remember, and have a Firestar also, drop me a note, I want to ask you some questions about some of the things I really liked about your plane. Timandjan Tim Loehrke ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Muffler Coatings
Its one of those personal things. But when you have $10K in your plane, what another $100 or so to keep it looking nice. It seems people go out of there way to may it look nice but to stop short here seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick up cans than be standing at the airport watching others fly while wire brushing rust of the muffler. Besides if you do it first before it run rather than after the fact it will probably be a better job. OK, time for a new subject. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Muffler Coatings Date: 2/13/97 9:03 PM Hi, We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but do they actually perform a practical function other than making your exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening, though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out, it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the coating will help much. Am I missing the point? -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Muffler Coatings
Its one of those personal things. But when you have $10K in your plane, what another $100 or so to keep it looking nice. It seems people go out of there way to may it look nice but to stop short here seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick up cans than be standing at the airport watching others fly while wire brushing rust of the muffler. Besides if you do it first before it run rather than after the fact it will probably be a better job. OK, time for a new subject. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Muffler Coatings Date: 2/13/97 9:03 PM Hi, We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but do they actually perform a practical function other than making your exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening, though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out, it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the coating will help much. Am I missing the point? -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Feb 14, 1997
Subject: Re: Muffler Coatings
Its one of those personal things. But when you have $10K in your plane, what another $100 or so to keep it looking nice. It seems people go out of there way to may it look nice but to stop short here seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick up cans than be standing at the airport watching others fly while wire brushing rust of the muffler. Besides if you do it first before it run rather than after the fact it will probably be a better job. OK, time for a new subject. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Muffler Coatings Date: 2/13/97 9:03 PM Hi, We've talked a bunch about muffler coatings and how long they last, but do they actually perform a practical function other than making your exhaust look better? I guess maybe what I'm asking is how long do mufflers usually last and what's the typical failure mode? We've heard of cracks, but I don't think the coating will stop that from happening, though it will be easier to see when it does. I would guess the biggest problem is rust. It's my understanding that when car mufflers rust out, it's usually from the inside primarily. Again, I don't see that the coating will help much. Am I missing the point? -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com>
Subject: Re: Strange Kolb Model
My thanks to all that responded to help me identify an early Kolb design. With that help I have found out it is a Kolb Flyer and is equipped with twin Solo 21 engines. If my friend does decide to purchase it, I will look forward to giving it a detailed exam. Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be shipped over several years? Thanks. *************************************************************** * Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the * * MICOM Communications * shiny side * * Simi Valley, CA * up. * *************************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com>
Subject: Re: Strange Kolb Model
My thanks to all that responded to help me identify an early Kolb design. With that help I have found out it is a Kolb Flyer and is equipped with twin Solo 21 engines. If my friend does decide to purchase it, I will look forward to giving it a detailed exam. Is there any standard method of putting a year date on a Kolb or other type of homebuilt. The owner advertises it as a 1988 model. Is model date supposed to be the date it was designed, shipped, or built? And what about in the case of Kolb where there are multiple kits which could be shipped over several years? Thanks. *************************************************************** * Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the * * MICOM Communications * shiny side * * Simi Valley, CA * up. * *************************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Muffler Coatings
In my view the reason for a good muffler coating is to reveal cracks before they become catastrophic. The one forced landing I had in 135 hours in the mark 2 was because the circular weld where the manifold comes around and connects to the muffler can let go in flight. Lost power and had to put it down in a cow pasture in Stockton, NJ. Anyway, the key point to get here is that a failure like that does not happen instantly. Undoubtedly it started as a hairline crack on a portion of the weld and got worse with heating and cooling. Add some vibration to the mix and the remaining metal work hardens and then bang the whole thing broke. I have to take responsibility for not doing a better preflight, but after that I started taking a 4'" magnafying glass with me to the airport and decided that having a light colored coating that will show black exhaust gas smudges can really make a difference. Remember, a two stroke will run but will not produce power without a muffler. As for your question about failure modes . . . . . I had cracks on welds and off welds. Also keep in mind that the Mark 2 used the old style 2 piece muffler. I understand that the 3 piece which is used now has solved most of the cracking problems. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Re: Muffler Coatings
In my view the reason for a good muffler coating is to reveal cracks before they become catastrophic. The one forced landing I had in 135 hours in the mark 2 was because the circular weld where the manifold comes around and connects to the muffler can let go in flight. Lost power and had to put it down in a cow pasture in Stockton, NJ. Anyway, the key point to get here is that a failure like that does not happen instantly. Undoubtedly it started as a hairline crack on a portion of the weld and got worse with heating and cooling. Add some vibration to the mix and the remaining metal work hardens and then bang the whole thing broke. I have to take responsibility for not doing a better preflight, but after that I started taking a 4'" magnafying glass with me to the airport and decided that having a light colored coating that will show black exhaust gas smudges can really make a difference. Remember, a two stroke will run but will not produce power without a muffler. As for your question about failure modes . . . . . I had cracks on welds and off welds. Also keep in mind that the Mark 2 used the old style 2 piece muffler. I understand that the 3 piece which is used now has solved most of the cracking problems. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Getting ready.
To All... I still haven't flown yet, but here is what has been happening. I found a very good instructor up in Oklahoma, Fred Kimmel, BFI I believe. He has a MKII as well as a Titan (he is a dealer). I received about 3.5 hours from Fred on two trips up there and I think it was well worth the trouble and expense to get some first hand experience in a Kolb before first flight in my own. I think the Kolb flies quite a bit differently than the J3 Cub. Fred first gave me some air work away from the airport... getting me used to the engine, airspeeds, controls and all forms of stalls, attitudes, climbs, approaches, and emergency landings. By then I was really getting "air sick". We then came back to the airport and did pattern work for another hour. As he said, we stuffed 5 or 6 hours into 2. After a rest, we did another hour of pattern work. He started out with taxiing awhile, making runway flights, then fly byes getting lower and lower until we were doing multiple landings on the 4000 fairly rolling grass strip. I definitely tended to over control and was not as quick to anticipate things I should have. I went back for another 1.5 hours about 10 days later and things went very well. For part of the time we went over to a paved strip nearby. The wind and weather since I have gotten back has been really poor. I went out yesterday and today and taxied some. It is no where near the calmness I want for a first flight and the forcast for the rest of the week is worse. Today, I left the runway for very short distances (half to 1 second or so) at an indicated of 40 to 42 mph. The cheap brakes get really hot during taxi tests and they clank, clank, clank. I have them just about balanced (L & R) and have loosened up the cables (trying to keep them cooler) to the point where they are not very effective. I guess they have to burn enough off the shoes to conform to the drum. I repitched the IVO to a coarser pitch. I guess my engine (5 hours now) has loosened up some. I wanted to bring the static down to about 6200 and it took about a full turn to do it. I made so many small adjustments, I can't be sure. I tightened up the emphenage cables more to the point I think seems right. I put 14 lbs. of 2 lb. divers weights in the nose along with an 8 lb. battery (all at a 50" arm). That puts my CG right about 22.2". Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Getting ready.
To All... I still haven't flown yet, but here is what has been happening. I found a very good instructor up in Oklahoma, Fred Kimmel, BFI I believe. He has a MKII as well as a Titan (he is a dealer). I received about 3.5 hours from Fred on two trips up there and I think it was well worth the trouble and expense to get some first hand experience in a Kolb before first flight in my own. I think the Kolb flies quite a bit differently than the J3 Cub. Fred first gave me some air work away from the airport... getting me used to the engine, airspeeds, controls and all forms of stalls, attitudes, climbs, approaches, and emergency landings. By then I was really getting "air sick". We then came back to the airport and did pattern work for another hour. As he said, we stuffed 5 or 6 hours into 2. After a rest, we did another hour of pattern work. He started out with taxiing awhile, making runway flights, then fly byes getting lower and lower until we were doing multiple landings on the 4000 fairly rolling grass strip. I definitely tended to over control and was not as quick to anticipate things I should have. I went back for another 1.5 hours about 10 days later and things went very well. For part of the time we went over to a paved strip nearby. The wind and weather since I have gotten back has been really poor. I went out yesterday and today and taxied some. It is no where near the calmness I want for a first flight and the forcast for the rest of the week is worse. Today, I left the runway for very short distances (half to 1 second or so) at an indicated of 40 to 42 mph. The cheap brakes get really hot during taxi tests and they clank, clank, clank. I have them just about balanced (L & R) and have loosened up the cables (trying to keep them cooler) to the point where they are not very effective. I guess they have to burn enough off the shoes to conform to the drum. I repitched the IVO to a coarser pitch. I guess my engine (5 hours now) has loosened up some. I wanted to bring the static down to about 6200 and it took about a full turn to do it. I made so many small adjustments, I can't be sure. I tightened up the emphenage cables more to the point I think seems right. I put 14 lbs. of 2 lb. divers weights in the nose along with an 8 lb. battery (all at a 50" arm). That puts my CG right about 22.2". Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CVBreard(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Firestar harness
My single seat Firestar has a single lap belt. I'd like to install a more sophisticated system 3- or 4 point attach seat and shoulder harness. Do you offer one or can you suggest a supplier or two? CVBreard(at)aol.com Baton Rouge LA 504-924-6411 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CVBreard(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 17, 1997
Subject: Firestar harness
My single seat Firestar has a single lap belt. I'd like to install a more sophisticated system 3- or 4 point attach seat and shoulder harness. Do you offer one or can you suggest a supplier or two? CVBreard(at)aol.com Baton Rouge LA 504-924-6411 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Christina Reynen <reynen(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Muffler Woes
The 582 three piece sidemount muffler attached to my M-III with the CPS kit and with one additional rubber suspension added to the front clamp developed a ringing sound @ 5500 RPM and a 3"crack was found @ the weld where the elbow enters the can. After welding the crack (at 300 hrs TT and a complete engine teardown and overhaul) the noise disappeared for aprox 50hrs and during the last flight I made,the sound was back again. If I increase or decrease the RPM, the ringing stops. This time I see no telltale sign of cracking or exhaust traces yet and I want to know if the sound I hear is actually produced by a cracked muffler. Frank Reynen. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: Christina Reynen <reynen(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Muffler Woes
The 582 three piece sidemount muffler attached to my M-III with the CPS kit and with one additional rubber suspension added to the front clamp developed a ringing sound @ 5500 RPM and a 3"crack was found @ the weld where the elbow enters the can. After welding the crack (at 300 hrs TT and a complete engine teardown and overhaul) the noise disappeared for aprox 50hrs and during the last flight I made,the sound was back again. If I increase or decrease the RPM, the ringing stops. This time I see no telltale sign of cracking or exhaust traces yet and I want to know if the sound I hear is actually produced by a cracked muffler. Frank Reynen. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com>
Subject: C.B. Radios -Reply
Stongly recommend using a center load CB antenna (Lil' Hustler) mounted about 1 to 2 feet forward of the vertical stab on the boom. Rivet a small saddle-like bracket on top of the boom, passing the coax inside the boom. Secure coax inside boom with a dab of silicone RTV about every 1-1/2 to 2 feet intervals. This is not difficult, just delicate work. Use the top of the line Radio Shack hand held CB as your radio. You would not believe the range it is capable of. On long x-countries I have been able to converse with base stations about 60 miles away. That was not a misprint...60 miles. This was at an altitude of 2002 ft...2000 ft AGL plus the 2 ft antenna. A gound crew with a good radio setup in the chase vehicle could hear you about 30 to 40 miles out, however, they will not be able to transmit that far. Good luck! KZ MK3 builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neill Clayton-Smith <ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net>
Subject: Multiple messages
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Hi All, I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else getting this or is it my mail server? L8R Neill. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1997
From: K Zigaitis <kzigaitis(at)mdc.com>
Subject: C.B. Radios -Reply
Stongly recommend using a center load CB antenna (Lil' Hustler) mounted about 1 to 2 feet forward of the vertical stab on the boom. Rivet a small saddle-like bracket on top of the boom, passing the coax inside the boom. Secure coax inside boom with a dab of silicone RTV about every 1-1/2 to 2 feet intervals. This is not difficult, just delicate work. Use the top of the line Radio Shack hand held CB as your radio. You would not believe the range it is capable of. On long x-countries I have been able to converse with base stations about 60 miles away. That was not a misprint...60 miles. This was at an altitude of 2002 ft...2000 ft AGL plus the 2 ft antenna. A gound crew with a good radio setup in the chase vehicle could hear you about 30 to 40 miles out, however, they will not be able to transmit that far. Good luck! KZ MK3 builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Neill Clayton-Smith <ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net>
Subject: Multiple messages
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Hi All, I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else getting this or is it my mail server? L8R Neill. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Kolb Trim
I'd like to hear about trim problems and solutions. I'm flying a Firestar II completed in November. Out of the box, I had to hold back pressure on the stick, increasing with speed. I trimmed that out by reflexing the flaps (my own addition) and ailerons and dropping the leading edge of the HS stabilizer by about 3/4" (the maximum I could). (Unfortunately that interfered with the wing stow tube - but that's another story). It flys with no back pressure required over a very large speed range - nice. It also had a tendency to roll and turn to the left increasing with power. I attribute that to the spiraling propeller blast on the right side of the rudder. I partially trimmed the roll out with differential in the flaps. I've also tried a rudder trim tab and it did the trick except for the necessity of a lot of left rudder on take-off. I may have had the trim tab too high on the rudder. I'm also thinking of pitching the thrust line down slightly to get the blast higher on the vertical tail. I aligned the wings and fuselage as meticulously as I knew how when I built it and there is no apparent twist in the wings or else where (verified by others). Another Kolb Firestar I here (earlier model with full span ailerons) seems to have similar problems with a heavy left wing. He's using a trim tab on the left aileron. Thanks, Hank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Kolb Trim
I'd like to hear about trim problems and solutions. I'm flying a Firestar II completed in November. Out of the box, I had to hold back pressure on the stick, increasing with speed. I trimmed that out by reflexing the flaps (my own addition) and ailerons and dropping the leading edge of the HS stabilizer by about 3/4" (the maximum I could). (Unfortunately that interfered with the wing stow tube - but that's another story). It flys with no back pressure required over a very large speed range - nice. It also had a tendency to roll and turn to the left increasing with power. I attribute that to the spiraling propeller blast on the right side of the rudder. I partially trimmed the roll out with differential in the flaps. I've also tried a rudder trim tab and it did the trick except for the necessity of a lot of left rudder on take-off. I may have had the trim tab too high on the rudder. I'm also thinking of pitching the thrust line down slightly to get the blast higher on the vertical tail. I aligned the wings and fuselage as meticulously as I knew how when I built it and there is no apparent twist in the wings or else where (verified by others). Another Kolb Firestar I here (earlier model with full span ailerons) seems to have similar problems with a heavy left wing. He's using a trim tab on the left aileron. Thanks, Hank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark)
Subject: RE: Multiple messages
ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net (Neill Clayton-Smith) I am also getting two postings Mark Hansen ---------- From: Neill Clayton-Smith Subject: Kolb-List: Multiple messages Date: Tuesday, February 18, 1997 00:05PM Hi All, I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else getting this or is it my mail server? L8R Neill. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark)
Subject: RE: Multiple messages
ncs(at)scorpio.overthe.net (Neill Clayton-Smith) I am also getting two postings Mark Hansen ---------- From: Neill Clayton-Smith Subject: Kolb-List: Multiple messages Date: Tuesday, February 18, 1997 00:05PM Hi All, I am getting two postings of each message posted to the group is anyone else getting this or is it my mail server? L8R Neill. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com>
Subject: Duplicate messages
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Yes, you are correct. Yesterday we changed our internet network's IP configuration to comply with a RFC (Request-For-Comment, the docs that govern Internet stuff). The doubling problem appeared at the same time and appears limited to the kolb list; my other lists are OK. I am working on the problem but for now unfortunatly you'll be getting double postings until I figure out what changed... Jeff -- Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com (817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Stripling <jeff(at)luke.intranet.intrig.com>
Subject: Duplicate messages
Date: Feb 18, 1997
Yes, you are correct. Yesterday we changed our internet network's IP configuration to comply with a RFC (Request-For-Comment, the docs that govern Internet stuff). The doubling problem appeared at the same time and appears limited to the kolb list; my other lists are OK. I am working on the problem but for now unfortunatly you'll be getting double postings until I figure out what changed... Jeff -- Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com (817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: patricio(at)pananet.com (Patricio Janson)
Neill Clayton-Smith
Subject: Re: Multiple messages
I am also getting two postings. Patricio Janson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: patricio(at)pananet.com (Patricio Janson)
Neill Clayton-Smith
Subject: Re: Multiple messages
I am also getting two postings. Patricio Janson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: More Pictures, Progress on my Mark III
Date: Feb 18, 1997
I've now (I think) fixed problems with my web site http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/. You can now browse this without waiting a long period for all the pictures to download, and it will work with AOL's browser. I've added a few pictures from last week. The idea of mounting the switches in the gap seal seems to be working very well. On problem is that the ignition key MUST be removed before installing or removing the gap seal - I forgot this already and broke the key off in the cylinder. I believe that Dick Kuntzleman intends to do a "hot box" type product with switches that can be installed easily in the gap seal. I'll post additional pictures when I get my Olympus D-300L back later this week (I've loaned it out.) The plane should be ready to fly as soon as I rig the flaps and ailerons, install a pitot tube, paint "N628SB" on the side, and get it inspected... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: More Pictures, Progress on my Mark III
Date: Feb 18, 1997
I've now (I think) fixed problems with my web site http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/. You can now browse this without waiting a long period for all the pictures to download, and it will work with AOL's browser. I've added a few pictures from last week. The idea of mounting the switches in the gap seal seems to be working very well. On problem is that the ignition key MUST be removed before installing or removing the gap seal - I forgot this already and broke the key off in the cylinder. I believe that Dick Kuntzleman intends to do a "hot box" type product with switches that can be installed easily in the gap seal. I'll post additional pictures when I get my Olympus D-300L back later this week (I've loaned it out.) The plane should be ready to fly as soon as I rig the flaps and ailerons, install a pitot tube, paint "N628SB" on the side, and get it inspected... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Muffler Coatings (sorry, there's more)
On 14 Feb 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote: > seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use > the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick ...just can't help it. i'd *much* rather tinker w/ my airplane than collect cans. :-) It is reasonable to pull the muffler every 50 hours to be able to verify that the piston rings are free, take a partial peek for cylinder or piston scuffing and carbon load on the crowns, as well as to re-apply anti-sieze goo on the muffler fittings). (I think 50 hours is the Rotax recommended interval for the above checks.) This is an easy time to touch spray the muffler, if needed. For me, i'll paint the can once in awhile, and also check the thing carefully for cracks. I'd also wonder if a light colored coating on the muffler reduces cooling enf to be a slight disadvantage ...maybe not. And, what happens to the coating if you need to weld a crack closed? Another $100? my $.02, ...or 2 cans --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Muffler Coatings (sorry, there's more)
On 14 Feb 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote: > seems kind of short sighted. If moneys the issue, pick up cans. Use > the money from the cans to pay for the coating. I would rather pick ...just can't help it. i'd *much* rather tinker w/ my airplane than collect cans. :-) It is reasonable to pull the muffler every 50 hours to be able to verify that the piston rings are free, take a partial peek for cylinder or piston scuffing and carbon load on the crowns, as well as to re-apply anti-sieze goo on the muffler fittings). (I think 50 hours is the Rotax recommended interval for the above checks.) This is an easy time to touch spray the muffler, if needed. For me, i'll paint the can once in awhile, and also check the thing carefully for cracks. I'd also wonder if a light colored coating on the muffler reduces cooling enf to be a slight disadvantage ...maybe not. And, what happens to the coating if you need to weld a crack closed? Another $100? my $.02, ...or 2 cans --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: "RIVARD" <RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US>
Subject: PARTS KOLB MK2
I HAVE A 1990 MK2 WITH 89hrs.TT ON ENG AND AIRFRAME.ROTEX 503 WITH CARB HEAT,PROP&CRANK BALANCER.WINGS AND TAIL FACTORY BUILT{QUICK BUILD KIT}.BRS RECOVERY,SPORTY RADIO.AMPLIFIER,HELMETS WITH INTERCOM.CAGE,FLT. CONTROLS,INSTRUMENTS ETC. THIS IS A COMPLETE MK2 THAT WILL BE SOLD FOR UNAIRWORTHY PARTS ONLY. NOW BEFORE YOU GET ON MY CASE,I DON'T WANT TO DISASSEMBLE THIS PLANE, I REALLY ENJOYED FLYING IT.I LOST MY MEDICAL. IF THERE ARE ENOUGH PEOPLE WHO CAN USE THESE PARTS I WILL DISASSEMBLE THIS PLANE.I'D LIKE TO SEE IT PUT TO GOOD USE. DETROIT/PORT HURON MI.AREA ROBERT RIVARD RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: "RIVARD" <RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US>
Subject: PARTS KOLB MK2
I HAVE A 1990 MK2 WITH 89hrs.TT ON ENG AND AIRFRAME.ROTEX 503 WITH CARB HEAT,PROP&CRANK BALANCER.WINGS AND TAIL FACTORY BUILT{QUICK BUILD KIT}.BRS RECOVERY,SPORTY RADIO.AMPLIFIER,HELMETS WITH INTERCOM.CAGE,FLT. CONTROLS,INSTRUMENTS ETC. THIS IS A COMPLETE MK2 THAT WILL BE SOLD FOR UNAIRWORTHY PARTS ONLY. NOW BEFORE YOU GET ON MY CASE,I DON'T WANT TO DISASSEMBLE THIS PLANE, I REALLY ENJOYED FLYING IT.I LOST MY MEDICAL. IF THERE ARE ENOUGH PEOPLE WHO CAN USE THESE PARTS I WILL DISASSEMBLE THIS PLANE.I'D LIKE TO SEE IT PUT TO GOOD USE. DETROIT/PORT HURON MI.AREA ROBERT RIVARD RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: 1 seat or 2 ?
Greetings all, Greetings all, (just kidding Jeff ) Well I'm all dressed up with no place to go. The last kit and engine for the SS arrived last Friday, but there's no plans or manual yet. Dennis said they were at the printers now and I'll see them in about a week. In the mean time, I'll just obsess over other details. My most recent quandary involves the rear seat of the SS. The more I look at the cage, the more I think I won't really get much use out of it. What I'm thinking of doing instead, is putting a 12 gallon fuel tank where the 2nd seat would be, and using the old fuel area for misc storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the drag savings would be nice. This will all help the CG situation enough that I might even splurge for the electric starter. Even with the smaller 503 engine, I should be able to pitch the prop for cruise and still get great climb at the single place. The best part about this plan, is that my wife won't have to feel like she should ride in the plane. She doesn't like flying much and gets quite airsick. I wasn't really looking forward to having her barf on the back of my head :-) I have to decide soon, because I need to start the FAA paperwork. One of the things they want to know now is how many seats there are. I'd be interested in hearing any opinions for or against deleting the jumpseat. To anyone who's interested, I posted another roll of pictures this morning. They're up-to-date showing the tail and ailerons covered, and also pictures of the final kit contents and some shots of the SS cage. I wish Scott would loan me his digital camera. Man, his photos are nice! In general SS news, Dennis told me they plan to have the 912 on a SS by SNF! I can't wait to read the reviews on that. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: 1 seat or 2 ?
Greetings all, Greetings all, (just kidding Jeff ) Well I'm all dressed up with no place to go. The last kit and engine for the SS arrived last Friday, but there's no plans or manual yet. Dennis said they were at the printers now and I'll see them in about a week. In the mean time, I'll just obsess over other details. My most recent quandary involves the rear seat of the SS. The more I look at the cage, the more I think I won't really get much use out of it. What I'm thinking of doing instead, is putting a 12 gallon fuel tank where the 2nd seat would be, and using the old fuel area for misc storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the drag savings would be nice. This will all help the CG situation enough that I might even splurge for the electric starter. Even with the smaller 503 engine, I should be able to pitch the prop for cruise and still get great climb at the single place. The best part about this plan, is that my wife won't have to feel like she should ride in the plane. She doesn't like flying much and gets quite airsick. I wasn't really looking forward to having her barf on the back of my head :-) I have to decide soon, because I need to start the FAA paperwork. One of the things they want to know now is how many seats there are. I'd be interested in hearing any opinions for or against deleting the jumpseat. To anyone who's interested, I posted another roll of pictures this morning. They're up-to-date showing the tail and ailerons covered, and also pictures of the final kit contents and some shots of the SS cage. I wish Scott would loan me his digital camera. Man, his photos are nice! In general SS news, Dennis told me they plan to have the 912 on a SS by SNF! I can't wait to read the reviews on that. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com>
Subject: Seeing Double
Feb 18th. Yes Neill, I've been receiving duplicate kolb messages since Monday. Thanks for confirming the 'double vision'. JohnJohnHansonHanson pilotone(at)erols.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com>
Subject: Seeing Double
Feb 18th. Yes Neill, I've been receiving duplicate kolb messages since Monday. Thanks for confirming the 'double vision'. JohnJohnHansonHanson pilotone(at)erols.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com>
Subject: Seeing Double
Feb 18th. Yes Neill, I've been receiving duplicate kolb messages since Monday. Thanks for confirming the 'double vision'. JohnJohnHansonHanson pilotone(at)erols.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: 1 seat or 2 ?
I vote for keeping the 2nd seat. I wish I could carry a passenger on rare occassion, so would place high priority on this, even if it were infrequent. >storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT Not sure I ever told you how i spent probably 1.5 months of prime building time making a custom fiberglass fuel tank for my plane. Boy, that was even more fun than the custom windscreen. It now sits proudly in the rafters of my garage ...but it was fun to do! I don't really mean to rain on your parade, just relating to my own interest to get the gas tank moved to a different location, and make it into a very odd shape that is otherwise just wasted. I could go on, but i'll spare you. >even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front >of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the >roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the I guess as a headrest the chute and rocket egress is beyond your head? I'd hate to think of any possibility of the BRS chute saving your plane and everything below your neckline. Even an accidental deployment would be nasty if it put your head out there on the canopy somewhere. -Ben Ransom --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: 1 seat or 2 ?
I vote for keeping the 2nd seat. I wish I could carry a passenger on rare occassion, so would place high priority on this, even if it were infrequent. >storage and a place to mount a battery, fuel pump, ELT, etc. I MIGHT Not sure I ever told you how i spent probably 1.5 months of prime building time making a custom fiberglass fuel tank for my plane. Boy, that was even more fun than the custom windscreen. It now sits proudly in the rafters of my garage ...but it was fun to do! I don't really mean to rain on your parade, just relating to my own interest to get the gas tank moved to a different location, and make it into a very odd shape that is otherwise just wasted. I could go on, but i'll spare you. >even be able to mount the BRS inside the cage pointing up just in front >of the main steel tube. I would have to make an escape hatch in the >roof, and I'm not sure I like having this thing as a headrest, but the I guess as a headrest the chute and rocket egress is beyond your head? I'd hate to think of any possibility of the BRS chute saving your plane and everything below your neckline. Even an accidental deployment would be nasty if it put your head out there on the canopy somewhere. -Ben Ransom --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net>
Subject: OIL INJECTION
Does anybody have experience with the oil injection system for the Rotax 503? Benny Whitehead Firestar II N226JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Seats = 2
Hi again, Thanks to everyone that commented on my recent dilemma. I sent the FAA registration request letter today and listed the SS as 2-place. In the end, I just couldn't justify giving up the seat. Now I'll look into finding a fuel tank that I like better for the normal location. Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: POWERFIN propeller, ever heard of it?
Is anyone using a POWERFIN propeller, especially with the Rotax 582? Does anybody KNOW of anyone using the Powerfin? Have you even heard of it? I am considering it as a low-inertia alternative to Warp. It is claimed to have a flexibility between Warp and Ivo, lower mass than either, and superior aerodynamics (true Clark "Y" shape instead of knife-edge). Can anyone provide first-hand knowledge? Isn't this Internet a great tool? Powerfin has a web page at www.supernal.net/~powerfin/ Thanks! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: POWERFIN propeller, ever heard of it?
Date: Feb 20, 1997
I cannot help you with powerfin but there is another prop that I have heard good things about (kind of spendy though), it is the sport prop sold by sport copter. Their Web page is at www.teleport.com/~zlinak/index.htm >---------- >From: Jim Gerken >GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM[SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Thursday, February 20, 1997 2:08 PM >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Subject: POWERFIN propeller, ever heard of it? > > Is anyone using a POWERFIN propeller, especially with the Rotax 582? > Does anybody KNOW of anyone using the Powerfin? Have you even heard > of it? I am considering it as a low-inertia alternative to Warp. > It is claimed to have a flexibility between Warp and Ivo, lower > mass than either, and superior aerodynamics (true Clark "Y" shape > instead of knife-edge). > Can anyone provide first-hand knowledge? Isn't this Internet a great tool? > > Powerfin has a web page at www.supernal.net/~powerfin/ >Thanks! > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: "Daniel D. Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net>
Subject: Angle of atttack
A firestarII builder is rebuilding his aircraft and has reinstalled his tail boom and leveled his wings. He took a reading of the tail boom when his wings were level with the ground and found that it read 13 1/2. (has a digital level). Because he didn't keep notes when he first built the aircraft he was wondering if this is right? As mine is also in repair couldn't make a comparison. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ricardo vidales torres <rvidales(at)infosel.net.mx>
Subject: KOLB IN SPANISH
Date: Feb 20, 1997
ME GUSTARIA RECIBIR E. MAIL EN ESPA=D1OL DE ALGUIEN DE USTEDES ACERCA DEL ULTRALIGERO MARK III O DE CUALQUIER COSA RELACIONADA GRACIAS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 21, 1997
Subject: Mud on wings
Hello I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants . Duane ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Mud on wings
Date: Feb 21, 1997
The only solutions I can think of are some fenders, pieces of curved metal over the wheels to keep the mud from slinging. Or put some protective coating (wax or something) to make the wing easier to clean. >---------- >From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com[SMTP:EnaudZ(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com] >Sent: Friday, February 21, 1997 8:34 AM >To: KOLB(at)intrig.com >Subject: Mud on wings > >Hello > I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave > aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants . > Duane > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Mud on wings
On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote: > I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave > aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants . > Duane Wear it (the mud) with pride. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: Advice on final finishing...
Date: Feb 21, 1997
I'm getting to the final stages and would like to hear experiences and advice on a few things: 1) N number: I've been assigned N628SB, and I can (I guess) either paint it with stencils or get stick-on vinyl letters. If I use stencils, I'll have cutouts showing for the insides of the 6,8, and B. If I use letters, they won't match the color (exactly) of my accent paint. Any ideas or advice? Any preferred vendors for stencils or letters? 2) Overspray When I put the final coat on my wings, we had the second wing too close to the first, and the overspray made the finish rough. Any ideas on how to compound them or such? I've ordered "Experimental" decals, passenger warning, and metal identification plate from Skysports. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Advice on final finishing...
On Fri, 21 Feb 1997, Scott Bentley wrote: > 2) Overspray > > When I put the final coat on my wings, we had the second wing too close > to the first, and the overspray made the finish rough. Any ideas on how > to compound them or such? this is a tough one. I tried to buff out a couple lousy areas on my wings, and the best luck I had was using either 600 paper or steel wool, then McGuire's #9. Lots of elbow grease required on the McGuires, and avoid getting the sand paper near the rivet bumps. At the time I had tried lots of things and can't remember them all now. I think the steel wool worked even better than the 600 paper. Good luck w/ it. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 1997
From: "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net>
Subject: OIL INJECTION
Does anybody have experience with the oil injection system for the Rotax 503? Benny Whitehead Firestar II N226JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 1997
From: reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen)
Subject: Re: Mud on wings
On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:> I need advice about keeping wings cleen, I have > aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants . > Duane What!! mud on a Kolb wing ? This is totally unacceptable! If you do not want wheelpants the least I can offer is the mud flap used by Full Lotus floats that is a piece of semi flexible plastic (Nylon or eqvlt approx. 6X10") that is hinged at the front and lays loosely on the tire while on the ground,and lifts up and stays horizontal while flying. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: First Flight
To All... I was doing runway flights in preparation for first flight the next day and found myself higher than I wanted to be and too little runway left for safety. I first thought I would just go around in the pattern and land. I quickly decided to just fly my planned first flight. Heck, I was already airborne. I climbed out at 60 to 65 mph at about 6000 rpm (I think - I know not full throttle) to 2 then 3000 feet staying in the pattern at first and then in the immediate vacinity of the airport at that altitude. I showed about 1000+ on each EGT. I didn't notice the exact water temp except that it was in the green. I first noticed a heavy left wing feel and the tendency to want to hold right rudder when trying to fly straight and level... an odd feeling in the seat of my pants. According to my yaw string I was yawing right (kind of skidding). I guess because I sit in the left seat and my 2nd Chantz chute is above my head on the left side, the reason for the tendency to roll left is the off center CG. Anyway, once I held a little right aileron and got off the rudder the yaw string corrected itself. I played with the rudders then the elevator and finally the ailerons. Then I did some 90 degree rather flat turns, then some figure 8's gradually steepened the bank to about 20 degrees, no more. I tried to keep the speed between 60 and 70 mph and the altitude at 3000. I slowed up the plane to slow flight and noticed slugish controls below 50 and an actual stall break (straight forward) at around 45 mph. I wasn't expecting it so soon, but then I am not sure if my ASI is reading correctly. I may change the placement of the static source and test the speeds again. None the less, the indicated is what I need to know for now. I then tried power off stalls and the speed was about the same... a gentle but distinct forward break and almost immediate recovery. That done, I just flew around a few minutes enjoying the great view the Kolb provides. I then wanted to get down without cutting power too much. I reduced throttle to 4000 rpm and had to glide at up to 75 mph or so to loose very much altitude. I noticed before I started down that my water temp was really cool (130 to 140) and I didn't want it to get any cooler while decending. The landing was not what I would call a beauty, but it did the job. I had trained to keep 60 at all times in the pattern and reduce throttle to about 4000 on turning base and adjust as needed on final. Bring in a little throttle on rounding out, stabilize flying just off the round, kiss the ground with the mains, pull off any power gently while adding forward stick to keep the mains planted and keeping on the centerline with the rudder until the tail falls on its own... the typical wheel landing. Well I pretty much planted it immediately after rounding out and very short float. I need to work on my gentleness next time. I had very little cross wind (about 5 degrees) and 8 mph. Flight time was 0.6 hours. I was on a high for the rest of the day. Several guys wandered by the hanger to comment on the fact that they had seen me flying (finally) and to offer their congratulations. One was a FS-I builder that lives at the airport who has not begun his project (had it about 4 years now). He said seeing the Kolb flying got his juices stirred up again. I am going to try to get him off high center and started building. I adjusted the right flap up (two turns out on the rod end) a little to try to correct for the tendency to roll left. I will adjust flap down on the opposite side if needed after the next flight. Next time up I will adjust the trim lever from zero up to 2 notches before take off and will be able to reach and adjust more if needed in flight. The first flight I was so tightly strapped in I couldn't reach the trim lever without wiggling out of my harness. I had enough on my plate to look after at the time. Frankly, everything was pretty much a big blur... a very nice one. My impression in one statement is that the Kolb is everything I ever expected it to be... maybe even more. My dreams have come true. I am looking forward to my 2nd flight which will be a repeat of the first. This week's weather looks bad... maybe next weekend. Later, Cliff Stripling (previously self named "Chicken Little" - no longer) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Feb 24, 1997
Subject: Re[2]: Mud on wings
Sounds like you want your cake and to eat it to. Looks like you have a choice not flying it, that will keep the leading edge and bottom clean but then you have to deal with the dust which gathers on top or accept some form of wheel pants. Tuff choice. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mud on wings Date: 2/23/97 8:43 PM On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote: > I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave > aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants . > Duane Wear it (the mud) with pride. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 1997
From: Fred Steadman <fstead(at)fastlane.net>
Subject: Re: Mud on wings
jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote: > > Sounds like you want your cake and to eat it to. > > Looks like you have a choice not flying it, that will keep the leading > edge and bottom clean but then you have to deal with the dust which > gathers on top or accept some form of wheel pants. Tuff choice. > > > > ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ > Subject: Re: Mud on wings > Author: Ben Ransom at MAILGATE > Date: 2/23/97 8:43 PM > > On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote: > > I need advice about keeping wings cleen, Ihave > > aFirestar I I I don't want wheel pants . > > Duane > > Wear it (the mud) with pride. > > -Ben Ransom Fly from a hard surface runway on dry days. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM>
Subject: Wing Gap Seal for my Mark III/912/BRS
Date: Feb 24, 1997
I've taken some pictures of the gap seal between the wings for my Mark III, with 912 engine and BRS 1050 parachute. The design departs considerably from the plans. The first cross section is closer to the front, and there are no other structural members that go between the wings. This shows the setup of the master, ignition, strobe, EIS power, and EIS select switches, which are above the pilot's head. Note that they are recessed so that they don't protrude and prevent the gap seal from being installed or removed. You have to remember to remove the ignition key, however - I've already broken one off removing the gap seal. Dick Kuntzleman is considering making a "product" of the box with the switches. If you are interested, call him at 610 326 9068. I'm so far very pleased with the location in the gap seal - you can see and easily reach the switches, but they don't interfere with getting in and out. In the pictures, the seal is upside down. This shows it looking from the rear of the airplane: http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/wgaprear.jpg This is an overhead shot. http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/wgapover.jpg This shows a side view. http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/wgapside.jpg Note I haven't indexed these yet - you'll have to type the entire URL to see the pictures. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 1997
From: Ron Hoyt <Ronald.R.Hoyt(at)cdev.com>
Subject: Mark III CG
Can anybody tell me what the CG range is on the Mark III relative to the center of the wing spar? Thanks Ron PS. first wing is almost done ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Thanks!
To All, Thanks to all of you who sent me "congrats". I really appreciate all of the many nice comments. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (100%) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 1997
From: reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen)
Subject: Re: Mud on wings
You wrote: > >On Fri, 21 Feb 1997 EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:> > I need advice about keeping wings cleen, I have > aFirestar I I I >don't want wheel pants . >> Duane > What!! mud on a Kolb wing ? This is totally unacceptable! If you do not want wheelpants the least I can offer is the mud flap used by Full Lotus floats that is a piece of semi flexible plastic (Nylon or eqvlt approx. 6X10") that is hinged at the front and lays loosely on the tire while on the ground,and lifts up and stays horizontal while flying. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 1997
From: HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark)
Subject: RE: Seats = 2
Have you thought of using a seat tank (I think they hold about 12 gal.) I think you can get them from Golden Circle "http://www.netins.net/showcase/t-birds/" The tank is in the backrest of the seat. ---------- From: Russell Duffy Subject: Kolb-List: Seats = 2 Date: Wednesday, February 19, 1997 23:27PM Hi again, Thanks to everyone that commented on my recent dilemma. I sent the FAA registration request letter today and listed the SS as 2-place. In the end, I just couldn't justify giving up the seat. Now I'll look into finding a fuel tank that I like better for the normal location. Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 1997
From: Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net>
Subject: Propeller
I'm getting ready to order the engine for my FS II. I decided on the 447 instead of the 503, money thing (couldn't find enough cans) and I can't decide on which propeller to use, which do you think is better the two blade wood, two blade Ivo or the 60" three blade Ivo? Cal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Re: Kolb Trim
It looks like Cliff has the same trim problems that I had with my FS II. So far every Kolb I know of has the same problems. These trim problems are especially a characteristic of pusher type airplanes where the vertical tail is in the prop flow. The airflow off the prop has a spiral pattern (clockwise looking forward) which impinges on the right side of the vertical stabilizer/rudder on my Kolb (Rotax 503 with B box). Since the rudder is bigger than the vertical stabilizer, it moves to the left so the airplane turns to the left (and also slightly rolls left since the rudder is above the centerline). If you install a trim tab on the rudder forcing the rudder to neutral, the spiral airstream forces the whole tail to the left causing the whole airplane to fly yawed to the right. I've corrected the turning tendency by dropping the left flap and reflexing the right flap (my own design). This could also be done by using a trim tab on the ailerons. I also shortened the right rudder pedal spring by 1" giving a 7 pound bias. I've tried a temporary rudder tab large enough to neutralize the rudder but didn't like the resulting perpetual yaw. Hank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Kolb Trim
On Sun, 25 Feb 1996, Henry Fritze wrote: > It looks like Cliff has the same trim problems that I had with my FS II. > So far every Kolb I know of has the same problems. > > These trim problems are especially a characteristic of pusher type > airplanes where the vertical tail is in the prop flow. The airflow off > the prop has a spiral pattern (clockwise looking forward) which impinges > on the right side of the vertical stabilizer/rudder on my Kolb (Rotax > 503 with B box). Since the rudder is bigger than the vertical > stabilizer, it moves to the left so the airplane turns to the left (and > also slightly rolls left since the rudder is above the centerline). If > you install a trim tab on the rudder forcing the rudder to neutral, the > spiral airstream forces the whole tail to the left causing the whole > airplane to fly yawed to the right. Mine is a Firestar KXP and has longer ailerons, but otherwise is about the same as the FS I and II. My plane wants to go RIGHT at full power climb due to P-factor and prop torque, requiring left rudder. This is a *normal* thing in all prop planes (altho' direction is opposite of GA). I'm not so sure about the above logic with the prop spiral pushing the *rudder* to the left. Admittedly, if this tendency showed up in all of a type, i spose you'd have to wonder. However, there is another possible cause (and solution) mentioned previously by Dennis Souder (i think): Consider the propwash as upper and lower halves, the upper pushing air to the starboard, and the lower half pushing air to the port side. Changing the shims on the engine mount to pitch the engine thrust line slightly up or down determines how much of each half of the prop flow hits the vertical stabilizer and rudder. Problems of the type described above have been corrected by shimming the thrust line up or down. Attempted solutions to put permanent trim into the rudder, ailerons, or flaps would affect flight in all regimes, regardless of engine power setting, a lousy deal. For example, adding trim to "correct" P-factor or Torque could cause a tendency to fly too much in the trimmed direction when at cruise or fast glide. In short, make sure whether the problem is related to the prop or possibly to some other alignment problem before adding permanent trim. my $.02 p.s. obviously if you are shimming your engine mount to move the thrust line down, you gotta keep enf clearance from the fuse' tube. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: manliker(at)uiuc.edu (Mark Anliker)
Subject: pop rivet gun
I'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers, etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it? *************************************************** Mark A. Anliker Voice: 217-333-5383 Assistant Hydrologist Fax: 217-244-0777 Illinois State Water Survey *************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: Bill Shamblin <shamblin(at)hc1.hci.net>
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
i dont use a pop rivit gun myself, but robin(at)pineland.net has one and much plane building. i bet she would share ideas. or come to ultralight chat 9-10 est most nights. sign in at washington.dc.us.irc.q.net port 6667 with channel= ultrafly bill shamblin On Wed, 26 Feb 1997, Mark Anliker wrote: > I'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a > Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers, > etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy > first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it? > > *************************************************** > Mark A. Anliker Voice: 217-333-5383 > Assistant Hydrologist Fax: 217-244-0777 > Illinois State Water Survey > *************************************************** > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 26, 1997
Subject: re: prop
I like the three blade props. Several reasons for my decision, in trailering the kold the three blade prop works better with the folded wings.(if you enclose the trailer the 2 blade prop must stick straight up and down and therfore the ceiling of the trailer will need to be that much higher. Reason 2, on a mx I had, a 2 blade prop caused a kinda harmonic vibration in relation the the engine/prop gearing, when I switched to a 3 blade prop the vibration was gone. FYI from my point of view. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: re: prop
On Wed, 26 Feb 1997 Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote: > I like the three blade props. Several reasons for my decision, in trailering > the kold the three blade prop works better with the folded wings.(if you > enclose the trailer the 2 blade prop must stick straight up and down and > therfore the ceiling of the trailer will need to be that much higher. ...clip or you can leave the 2 bladed prop in the horizontal position, in which case it is no wider than the airplane's wheel track. my vote is generally for 2 blade compared to 3, just for their greater efficiency, plus they're cheaper. btw, i do like my warp prop. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom (916) 752-1834 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
Mark Anliker wrote: > > I'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a > Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers, > etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy > first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it? I got my Air Hydraulic Rivet gun from Northern Hydraulic (1-800-533-5545) for $62. You might find one cheaper if you look around, but this one works fine. I feel like the Air gun does a better job on the rivets, but any extra quality is just gravy and not really required for a safe plane. Also keep in mind that there are plenty of places where the larger snout of the air gun won't reach. These have to be done with a hand riveter. As far as the order to buy the tools and kit, I doubt it matters. If you live someplace where you can just drive down to the Harbor Freight Store, you might just pick them up as needed, rather than ordering in advance. Even in the best of cases, you'll have plenty of time to collect tools between the time you send the check and the time kit ABF Freight truck shows up with your kit. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: Marc Robertson <marc@blackberry-ridge.com>
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
Russell Duffy wrote: > > I got my Air Hydraulic Rivet gun from Northern Hydraulic > (1-800-533-5545) for $62. You might find one cheaper if you look > around, but this one works fine. > Russell Duffy > rad(at)pen.net > http://www.pen.net/~rad/ I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there? Marc Robertson marc@blackberry-ridge.com ________________________________________________________________________________ (peer crosschecked as: blue.spectra.net [204.177.130.1])
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: Tom Decker <tdecker(at)spectra.net>
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
Marc , I have also had that problem and it is easy to fix . Remove the nose peice from the gun , you should be able to see the jaws now . Put a few drops of thinner on the jaws and put the nose back on and your done . You will find the riveter will now work as it should . I returned two guns to Sears before I found out what the problem was . Try it it should help on both hand and air riveters. ...Tom >I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin >together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for >his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the >mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there? > >Marc Robertson >marc@blackberry-ridge.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 1997
From: Fred Steadman <fstead(at)fastlane.net>
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
Tom Decker wrote: > > Marc , I have also had that problem and it is easy to fix . Remove the nose > peice from > the gun , you should be able to see the jaws now . Put a few drops of > thinner on the > jaws and put the nose back on and your done . You will find the riveter will > now work > as it should . I returned two guns to Sears before I found out what the > problem was . > Try it it should help on both hand and air riveters. > ...Tom > > >I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin > >together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for > >his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the > >mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there? > > > >Marc Robertson > >marc@blackberry-ridge.com > > > > I must be dense. I can't guess from your description of the fix what the problem was. ________________________________________________________________________________ (peer crosschecked as: blue.spectra.net [204.177.130.1])
Date: Feb 26, 1997
From: Tom Decker <tdecker(at)spectra.net>
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
Fred , The problem as Marc said below is that the jaws were slipping on the rivet stem when he tried to pull the rivet . If you still don't understand let me know ,ok . ...Tom >Tom Decker wrote: >> >> Marc , I have also had that problem and it is easy to fix . Remove the nose >> peice from >> the gun , you should be able to see the jaws now . Put a few drops of >> thinner on the >> jaws and put the nose back on and your done . You will find the riveter will >> now work >> as it should . I returned two guns to Sears before I found out what the >> problem was . >> Try it it should help on both hand and air riveters. >> ...Tom >> >> >I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin >> >together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for >> >his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the >> >mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there? >> > >> >Marc Robertson >> >marc@blackberry-ridge.com >> > >> > > >I must be dense. I can't guess from your description of the fix what >the problem was. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 1997
From: Don <poppld(at)tdbank.ca>
Subject: Re-Packing a Ballistic Parachute
Has anyone had a Ballistic Parachute repacked in Canada if so where? Transporting it across the border is a real hassle. Don Popplow poppld(at)tdbank.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 1997
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
Marc Robertson wrote: > I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin > together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for > his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the > mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there? One other thing to check is the adjustment of the jaw mechanism. When I got my air riveter, it worked great, but the shanks were a tight fit and impossible to remove once the rivet was set. I kept having to take the gun apart to get them out. After a little experimentation, I realized there was an undocumented adjustment that would fix this problem. Over time I imagine the teeth wear out some, and the gun might start to lose it's grip. You might need to make this adjustment periodically. -- Russell Duffy rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 1997
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Kolb Trim
On Wed, 26 Feb 1997, Daniel D. Bush wrote: > Early GA planes had a similar problem on going to the right on take-off > using abrupt full power. There solution was to "ramp" up to the tail > from the fusalage - you see this on most Cessna's even today. That is > supposed to break up the swirling airstream and "reduce" the effect on > the tail - the operative word is reduce - the Citabra still has the > tendency of turning slightly to the left on take-off. I once checked to see how quick I could get off the ground. This was with about 10mph headwind on pavement. I advanced throttle quickly and fed in left rudder just as fast. I was off the ground in 4 seconds and hadn't even quite hit full power yet as I was limited by the torque/Pfactor pulling me right in spite of nearly full left rudder. With a little practice i think i could've gotten it under 3 seconds :-), especially if i changed my prop pitch from cruise to climb. definetly a head turner. --------|-------- Ben Ransom (*) UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: 2nd Test, 0.9 hrs.
To All: 1. I changed the static port to inside of the cockpit behind the instrument panel. No change in stall speed (45) was noticed. On returning, I reattached the static port to the original location about 2" in front of the nose under the pitot tube. 2. I raised the right flap by 2 revolutions on the control arm rod end and it almost eliminated the low left wing problem. On returning, I did 1/2 rev inward on the left (the left is now out of adjustment room) and 1/2 rev outward on the right. 3. I took off with 2 notches of trim. That was just about right. At 3000 ft I put in 1 more notch and that was perfect for my weight and loading. Take off / climb 6000 rpm, 65 mph, 155 degrees, 975 EGTs(equal) Straight and level... 3000 ft 5500 rpm, 75 mph, 140- degrees, 1000 EGTs (equal) 3000 ft 5000 rpm, 70 mph, 140- degrees, 1000+ EGTs (equal) 3000 ft 6500 rpm, 85 mph, 140 degrees, 1000 EGTs (equal) 3000 ft 5000 rpm, 65 mph, 140- degrees, 1000+EGTs (equal) On return, I added a strip of 2" wide duct tape to the top of each radiator to keep the temperature up a little. I think 160 is about right, so I need to block some of that air. As the weather warms up and the temperature rises, I will remove it. My second landing was not one of beauty, but not bad. I just rounded out and put it down. Next flight I will TRY to make several fly-bys and work on my pattern and landing technique. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (0.6 hrs) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Kiger" <edkiger(at)netnitco.net>
Subject: Jet needle adjustment
Date: Feb 27, 1997
I would like to know if it is correct to set each jet needle ( dual carb) ( 503) by the corresponding egt? I called CPS (Calif Power Sys. ) and was told not to do that. They said to set both needles the same ! It would seen to me that the idea of dual egt would be to set up each carb for best temp for that cylinder. Ed Kiger edkiger(at)netnitco.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 1997
From: "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com>
Subject: Re: 2nd Test, 0.9 hrs.
On Thu, 27 Feb 1997, Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote: > > On return, I added a strip of 2" wide duct tape to the top of each radiator > to keep the temperature up a little. I think 160 is about right, so I need > to block some of that air. As the weather warms up and the temperature > rises, I will remove it. > I guess I don't understand something here. Don't these things have a thermostat like all other water-cooled engines? It seems pretty mickey-mouse to have to do something like this on a $4K engine. *************************************************************** * Bill Weber (bweber(at)micom.com) * Keep the * * MICOM Communications * shiny side * * Simi Valley, CA * up. * *************************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Kolb Trim
The velocity of the airflow affecting the tail comes from two main sources: freestream and prop blast. These vary with respect to each other thru out the flight regime. If the effects are corrected at one flight mode (such as cruise), they are not necessarily correct (and probably will not be) for any other. I took a string and doubled it and taped it to my prop tips to find out where my thrust centerline met the vertical tail. It was about 2/3'ds of the way up from the horizontal tail. Consequently, a clockwise spiraling tube of air coming off that prop will impact mostly the right hand side of the vertical stabilizer/rudder. That impact will have two effects. The rudder will be blown left and the vertical stabilizer will be blown left. The first will cause a left roll/turn. The second will cause a right yaw. This is exactly what I observed in my FS II. I had to hold right stick pressure to keep it from turning/rolling left with no feet on the rudder pedal. The rudder pedals were displaced, with the left one further out. It didn't yaw. I could also prevent it from turning/rolling left by applying right rudder with hands off the stick. It went straight but yawed right. If you correct the turn/roll problem with a rudder trim tab, you end up with a yaw. If the trim tab is up in the prop wash you get a strong right turn on take-off. Repitching the thrustline down (up on the tail) and putting the trim tab low on the rudder helps. If you correct the turn/roll problem with an aileron trim tab (or differential flaps) at least you don't get a yaw. But your rudder will be slightly deflected to the left (feet off). If you tried to pitch the thrustline down enough so the propwash cleared the tail, It would probably make takeoffs really weird and you'd have to make major pitch corrections to counter act it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Jet needle settings
CPS is right. Set the jet needles in the same notch. You can't trust most dual EGT indicating systems. Mine last Westach system was off by about 40 degrees F. between cylinders. The reason for dual carbs. is uniform flow to each cylinder rather than individual adjustability. This is my opinion of course, but I have had 3 dual carb. 503's in my career. cordially, Hank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Talk with Dennis and Dan...
To All... I talked to Dan and Dennis at Kolb today about my indicated airspeed being 45 indicated. I described my test changing the static port to behind the instrument panel with full enclosure in place. They said that inside the cabin with full enclosure that the ambient pressure was a little lower than true ambient and that that would make my ASI read higher than true air speed. Since my test inside the cockpit matched the speed at my outside nose location, I think that my nose static port is also a little lower than true ambient. That could easily be since the tiny holes on either side of the rounded nose and plugged static tube are just behind the rounded nose and possibly in the negative area of a bow wave off the tip of the tube. Anyway, they think that my ASI is reading high and that I should use the following (indicated speeds for my plane) while in the pattern: (1) lift off at 50, accelerate to 65 and climb at 65 at full throttle to pattern altitude before reducing to any other power setting. I had not been using full throttle on climb out, only 6000 rpm. Now I will. (2) pattern speed at 65 mph and approach speed on base and final at 65 with rpm about 3000 to 3500 rpm (clearing engine with a little power occasionally) until at the threshold then allowing speed to bleed off on round off. How you land from this point on is a whole 'nother subject of which I am just beginning to master. For me, it is easy to remember - fly at 65. I put a red mark at that speed on my ASI.. and another at 45. They said to leave the flaps alone for quite a few hours - only after I had thoroughly mastered the Kolb without flaps. They highly recommended using a yaw string to fly it straight. They reminded me of their bungee aileron trim hooked from right floor pan around stick back to right floor pan as a good way to counter the tendency to bank left. The bungee can be pushed up for more tension and lower for less. They said it worked great for solo and especially long solo flights. With two passengers, they say it is not needed. Dennis said to expect a news letter to builders from the company sometime soon. That is very good news. Dan said I needed to bring up my radiator water temps to at least 160 or otherwise I risked a cold siezure and thought duct tape (or better a piece of sheet aluminum bolted to the radiator tabs) to cover whatever area is needed. He also said by summer I would not need any baffle as I would be doing everything I could to keep it cool. He said my static 6100 to 6200 rpm with an unloaded 6400 to 6500 rpm (he would like to see 6500 to 6600) was a hair on the low side (too much pitch), but I am happy with that for the time being. The engine should still loosen up a little more, so the rpms may climb a little more. Dan also said a good picture of glide and rate of descent on base and final is with the flat bottom of the wing chord even with the horizon. I will take a quick glance next time. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (1.5 hrs) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RSCRacing(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 28, 1997
Subject: Re: Jet needle adjustment
Just my thought on EGT. You have to remember that the front cylinder gets the outside air first, so the back cylinder is actually getting warmer air off of the front cylinder. This is why you see a slightly higher EGT. on the back cylinder. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us>
Date: Feb 28, 1997
Subject: thermostat
Hello, > I guess I don't understand something here. Don't these things have a > thermostat like all other water-cooled engines? It seems pretty > mickey-mouse to have to do something like this on a $4K engine. You can order a thermostat for it. We did this and it works well. I like it much better then adding duct tape. :) I passed my private pilot checkride. :) (just had to add that) So, my dad will check me out in the kolb within a couple of days and then I shall be able to fly it. Brandon Kearbey | Kolb | - - - - Mark III [][]-| - - - - N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB" Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey . / | / | bkearbey@ben. . \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12. (_____________//----------------\^ ca.us / o ( ) Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 01, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Talk with Dennis and Dan
To All... This message bounced the first time I sent it. I hope it is not a duplicate to anyone. I don't think either of them will mind me repeating some points of what we discussed. We discussed my indicated airspeed being 45 mph indicated. I described my test on 2nd flight changing the static port to behind the instrument panel with full enclosure in place. Dennis said that inside the cabin with full enclosure that the ambient pressure was a little lower than true ambient and that that would make my ASI read higher than true air speed. Since my test inside the cockpit matched the indicated speed at my outside nose location, I think that my nose static port is also a little lower than true ambient. That could easily be since the tiny holes on either side of the plugged static tube are just behind its rounded nose and may possibly be in a negative pressure area of the bow wave at the tip of the tube. Dennis also said that the faster you go the more error there is in the ASI readings vs. true air speeds. Someday, I will borrow a GPS and find out what my actual speeds are. Anyway, they think that my ASI is reading incorrectly high and that I should use the following (indicated air speeds for my plane) while in the pattern: (1) lift off and accelerate to 65 and climb at 65 at full throttle to pattern altitude before reducing to any other power setting. I had not been using full throttle on climb out, only 6000 rpm. Now I will and whenever I do any significant climbing as well - better lubrication I understand. (2) pattern speed at 65 mph and approach speed on base and final at 65 with rpm about 3000 to 3500 (clearing engine with a little power occasionally) until at the threshold then allowing speed to bleed off on round off. How you land from this point on is a whole 'nother subject of which I am just beginning to master. For me, it is easy to remember - fly at 65. I put a red marker at that speed on my ASI.. and another at 45. I like simple instructions. The moral of all this is to carry a good margin of (indicated) speed on your first flight and test your (indicated) stall speeds before your first landing. I knew from the runway flights I did that my stall speed was high - at least 40. I just was a bit surprised to have it occur at 45 at altitude. I guess I had not considered the ground effect. They said to leave the flaps alone for quite a few hours - only after I had thoroughly mastered the Kolb without flaps. I could not resist pulling 1/2 flaps momentarily while flying straight and level. They felt real normal - a little bump up and a tiny pitch nose down. I remember my demo flight with Dan 2 years ago at SNF when he was (in my opinion) way too high on final. He pulled flaps and pointed the nose very steeply down. We settled like we were in an elevator and rounded out for a perfect landing. I had a grin on my face that lasted until I climbed in my sleeping bag that night. Thanks again, Dan, if you ever read this. They highly recommended using a yaw string to fly it straight. I would consider it a primary flight instrument for the Kolb as it flys sideways about as well as it flies straight. I forgot to ask if slips were effective or recommended to lose altitude. With those big flaps, I would think flaps would be more effective. They reminded me of their bungee aileron trim hooked from right floor pan edge around stick back to right floor pan edge as a good way to counter the tendency to bank left. The bungee can be pushed up for more tension and lower for less. They said it worked great for solo and especially long solo flights. With two passengers, they say it is not needed. Dennis said to expect a news letter to builders from the company sometime soon. That is very good news. Dan said I needed to bring up my radiator water temps to at least 160 or otherwise I risked a cold siezure and thought duct tape (or better a piece of sheet aluminum bolted to the radiator tabs) to cover whatever area is needed. He also said by summer I would not need any baffle as I would be doing everything I could to keep the engine cool. He said my static 6100 to 6200 rpm with an unloaded 6400 to 6500 rpm (he would like to see 6500 to 6600) was a hair on the low side (too much pitch), but I am happy with that for the time being. The engine should still loosen up a little more, so the rpms may climb a little more. Dan also said a good picture of glide and rate of descent on base and final is with the flat bottom of the wing chord even with the horizon. I will take a quick glance next time. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (1.5 hrs) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 02, 1997
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
writes: << 'm shopping for an air driven pop rivet gun in anticipation of building a Kolb. Looking for recommendations on what kind (brand) to buy, suppliers, etc. Perhaps this brings up a related question. What do you buy first...the aircraft kit or the tools with which to build it? >> I bought a cheap Chinese pnumatic rivet puller from J.C.Whitney catalog. Still going strong after 1 & 1/2 Kolbs and 2 Titans. Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 02, 1997
Subject: Re: pop rivet gun
Robertson) writes: << I lack personal experience in this, but watched a friend put a Merlin together. He mightily wished that he could get replacement "jaws" for his air riveter, since they seemed to lose their grip long before the mechanism wore out. Any comments or recommendations out there? >> The gun loses its grip because the hydraulic fluid has leaked out. This happened to me. Take the gun apart from the bottom, remove the plunger & rod and refill the top of the gun with heavy weight oil. Pete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 02, 1996
From: HFritze(at)redstone.net (Henry Fritze)
Subject: Dual carb. Rotax
I would be willing to bet that Rotax would recommend that both carbs. in a dual carb setup be adjusted identically. cheers, Hank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 1997
From: Patty MacGregor <pattym(at)superior.iceware.com>
Subject: Ultrastar
Hi, I have been on the mailing list for about a month to date and have not seen any mention of any of the earlier Kolb models. Were they so well designed that there are no bugs to iron out so Homer designed the Fire star and Mk lll series to quell his run of perfection? Really, I have a few questions for owners of Ultrastars. 1) Has anyone found a composit prop to fit? 50" long. 2) Is there a problem with harmonic viberation at cruise speed? 3) What about a pilot enclosure for winter flying? 4) Has anyone used skis on their Ultrastar? I built my Ultrastar in 1984 and took it to the Oskosh flyin in 1991. When I regestered at the barn, they parked me in the antique line and during the evening take off and landing fest, the announcer refered to me as the mowing machine (the prop has about 5" clearance from the ground.) In just seven years, my ride went from shiny new to a blast from the past. It really doesn't matter, because it is still great fun flying it at age 13. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 1997
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Radio Noise
To All... I need a little help here. I am having trouble with transmitting on my portable ICOM A 21. Here is my set up and it is pretty simple. I am getting power off an isolated (from the engine system) battery located in the nose. My ICOM is connected to my headset through a portable intercom. None of the wiring is shielded. My antenna is just the rubber duckey off the ICOM (with a patch cable with bnc plugs on either end). The duckey is mounted through the nose cone fiberglass wall. The poor transmissions occur whether the duckey is on the ICOM or at the remote nose location. The reports that I have received is that the transmissions are not very strong and that there is so much noise that the words pretty much covered up. I receive very well others transmissions. I know that part of the noise is caused by the Rotax ignition system. I know that part of my problem is the high noise environment in the cockpit that the mic is picking up. Perhaps the duckey is not what I should be using and I should go ahead and install a whip antenna. I suspect my radio is picking up the ingition noise through the interconnecting wiring of the radio, battery, intercom and headset. I have some idea of how to fix most of my radio problems, yet I am not sure what to do about the Rotax 582. How do I properly shield the spark plug wires and any other part I have not considered. Do I cover as much as possible with the braided copper shielding and use shrink-i-dink on both ends to hold it in place. Do I have to buy the expensive metal covers for each plug that I have seen in the USUA ads. Should I switch to the resistor type spark plug. Some of you "old hands" out there I know have the answers. I failed to mention that the electrical system for the engine is the simple non-battery standard Kolb one with the better regulator and a capacitor to run the engine instruments and stobe. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (1.5 hrs) (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 1997
From: Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
>Hi, > I have been on the mailing list for about a month to date and have not >seen any mention of any of the earlier Kolb models. Were they so well >designed that there are no bugs to iron out so Homer designed the Fire star >and Mk lll series to quell his run of perfection? > Really, I have a few questions for owners of Ultrastars. > 1) Has anyone found a composit prop to fit? 50" long. > 2) Is there a problem with harmonic viberation at cruise speed? > 3) What about a pilot enclosure for winter flying? > 4) Has anyone used skis on their Ultrastar? > > I built my Ultrastar in 1984 and took it to the Oskosh flyin in 1991. When >I regestered at the barn, they parked me in the antique line and during the >evening take off and landing fest, the announcer refered to me as the mowing >machine (the prop has about 5" clearance from the ground.) In just seven >years, my ride went from shiny new to a blast from the past. It really >doesn't matter, because it is still great fun flying it at age 13. > > I built an Ultrastar about 11 years ago and flew it for about six, I installed a partial enclosure from a Beaver ultralight. I looked and worked OK. I flew it in the winter down to about +5 degrees F. I kept my flights to about 25 minutes maximum at that temp. I installed skis for winter flying, they worked good. I made them from an old pair of wooden water skis. I strengthened them with a layer of fiberglass on the bottom. I had several iced carbs that resulted in forced landings, I then installed carb heat. I can not remember any serious harmonic vibration problems. My Ultrastar had a Cuyuna UL11-O2 with twin belt reduction. Kim Steiner Saskatchewan Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 1997
From: "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)hotmail.com>
As a brand new FireFly builder (.0001% done 659% to go)I thought I could avoid the painting phase for some time. Now the manual says to prime all steel parts prior to starting the rudder assembly... I've pretty much decided against powder coating (wrong decision??). My questions are : The manual says to prime and paint all steel parts. Is the finish paint really necessary at this point ?? Is primer enough. Is primer enough to protect the parts of the rudder assembly that will soon be buried in aluminum? How do you handle the inside of the tubes? Try to spray primer in? What about the stainless steel parts... should they be primed? Jumping way ahead. I've wondered how the fabric on the inside of the cage is handled. If you have the cage powder coated prior to overing, is it all masked before painting the inside covering?? I've been lurking in the shadows of this group for sometime and have learned a bunch. Hope to be active in the future. Wally Hofmann Wickenburg, Arizona http://www.foxfibre.com/cotton/ whofmann(at)hotmail.com Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 1997
From: chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu (Charles Henry)
Subject: Low frequency vibration
To All My Firestar I with a 447 engine and 3 blade Ivo prop has a distinct low frequency vibration that I would guess is about 30-40 Hz., also you can hear a sound like the "whop" of a helicoopter at a distance. Has anyone else noticed this? I have 5 inches clearance from the prop to the trailing edge of the wing and have the pitch set to give 6200 rpm static. I assume that the "whop" sound is from the close proximity of the prop and airframe. Could the airframe be resonant at the frequency of the interference pulses? Dennis at Kolb did not have an answer. I plan to try changing the prop to two blade with increased pitch to see if that changes the vibration. The engine does not seem to be missing and makes lots of power as the climb rate is good. The engine and airframe has 30 hours on it and this has been going on since new. The vibration is not severe but can be felt through the seat. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 1997
From: "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com>
Subject: Re: your mail
On Wed, 5 Mar 1997, Wally Hofmann wrote: > > As a brand new FireFly builder (.0001% done 659% to go)I thought I could avoid > the painting phase for some time. Now the manual says to prime all steel parts > prior to starting the rudder assembly... I've pretty much decided against > powder coating (wrong decision??). Go with powder coating. I started cleaning and priming before I knew I


December 15, 1996 - March 05, 1997

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ac