Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ae
April 22, 1997 - - - - , 20-
No way, but I'll sure tell people that's what I was doing the first time it
happens :-)
Both of these situations make me think of the everlasting debate over
practicing spins in GA planes. Way back when they used to require spin
training, more people were getting killed in the training than in accidental
spins, so the FAA decided to teach spin avoidance instead. I think this was
a
good idea. I've developed a very healthy respect for stall/spin conditions.
OK, really let me have it now :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel D. Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Turning off the engine |
Guess I'll put my two sense in -
It's not just turning off the engine that's what important - it's the
fact the plane flies differently. Without the engine thrust (we are
pushers) the plane will "probably" be tail heavy - it depends on the
model and what you've put on it.
In a real life situation if you think that the only thing you have to
do is look for someplace to land - you might have a world problem's
making turns, glide path for your approach, touch down spot, etc.
Turning the engine off is a personal thing and going to depend on how
confident you feel about flying and your skills. Personally I recommend
it - but not for someone with a few hours under their belt. First, you
have to learn to fly the plane with power - as you become fully
confident of what your capable of - with reduced power. For myself, I
get to a 1000 feet, even with mid field and turn it off. I cut my base
turn at about 1/2 the normal location so that with power I would put
down about midfield (have a 2800 ft runway). That way I'm assured of
making the field without power. Of course (for legal purposes) I do not
recommend this for anybody other than myself.
Dan B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim.crandell(at)mondavi.com (Jim Crandell) |
| Subject: | Intentional Engine Off |
Not sure if there is any corrilation, but . . .
Intentional engine out on a Champ with a windmilling prop gives
satisfactory glide. Pull up to reduce airspeed to let prop stop and
result with stationary prop is great glide. Test was conducted directly
over private strip (LAX refused request).
So, is an engine at idle really a good indicator of engine out
performance?
If this is a dumb thought forgive me. I'm still just a passenger. But
not for too much longer if I can help it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Welsh <flight(at)idirect.com> |
I had always intended to go up to a very safe altitude, turn the engine
off and find out what the difference was. I never got the chance. Almost
all of my landings I do dead stick, engine at idle. This did not prepare
me for an engine failure at climb out. I don't fly a Kolb but I do fly a
pusher configuration. On engine out at climbout the first thing is to
get the nose down. This proved far too easy when the nose refused to
come back up, it took too much altitude to get the nose up, this limited
the landing spot to a gravel road in a quarry. On approach my flight
path would cross a country road, it was when I noticed high voltage
wires accross the road that I had to put down in a very short field. I
survived, the plane was bent but repairable. I WILL PRACTICE COMPLETE
ENGINE OUTS. I will also find out why the nose didn't come up. It
strange because I've had an engine failure in exactly the same spot, at
exactly the same altitude, but I lost power and the engine idled and the
landing was completely safe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Steadman <fstead(at)fastlane.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intentional Engine Off |
Jim Crandell wrote:
>
> Not sure if there is any corrilation, but . . .
>
> Intentional engine out on a Champ with a windmilling prop gives
> satisfactory glide. Pull up to reduce airspeed to let prop stop and
> result with stationary prop is great glide. Test was conducted directly
> over private strip (LAX refused request).
>
> So, is an engine at idle really a good indicator of engine out
> performance?
>
> If this is a dumb thought forgive me. I'm still just a passenger. But
> not for too much longer if I can help it!
The glide characteristics with and without a windmilling prop are
decidedly different.
I once had the prop stop (not intentionally) on an old Taylorcraft with
the Lycoming 65 (0145?). Since the thing had no electric starter I was
pretty much committed to a dead stick landing.
Problem is, a Taylorcraft with no prop windmilling is a glider with no
spoilers. The thing wanted to fly in ground effect until my carefully
chosen, seemingly ample length field was behind me. I ended up hitting
a low fence on the far end of the field, and the plane flipped over onto
its back. I remember this fondly as my very favorite airplane crash.
Idle might not be it, but there should be some power setting which
accurately simulates a stopped prop. The problem is in trying to
simulate a windmilling prop, as that is probably the typical dead stick
situation.
I would advise against trying to stop the prop unless streching the
glide becomes a very important consideration, because the drag from the
windmilling prop may come in handy during landing. Also, as long as the
engine is turing there may be a chance of getting a relight.
I'm talking Champ/Taylorcraft type airplanes here, not Kolbs. It may be
that the Kolb has enough drag without the windmilling prop. Since I
haven't flown one, I don't know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mswihart(at)tcsn.net (Mark Swihart) |
| Subject: | TwinStar Wing Covers |
Does kolb or some other second party make dacron envelopes for TwinStar
wings? I am wondering if it is cheaper to buy covers instead of going
through hassle of handcovering and laying on the stitz...
Mark
mswihart(at)tcsn.net
PRUA241
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone worry about shock cooling an air cooled engine when shutting it
down in flight? I don't know that much about 2 cycle engines but I have been
told I can crack a cylinder if I shock cool the engine in a GA airplane.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Will it windmill? |
This may be a really dumb question, but will the prop on a Rotax powered Kolb
windmill? I was under the impression that it wouldn't due to the gearbox
ratio, but now I recall Ben saying that the prop would try to turn even at low
speeds on the trailer.
In Bruce's original message, he talked of in-air restarts using the pull rope.
If the prop is windmilling, why would this be necessary?
Thanks, Nice discussion so far.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu (Ray Abbruzzese) |
| Subject: | Re: Will it windmill? |
>This may be a really dumb question, but will the prop on a Rotax powered Kolb
>windmill?
Not dumb. The prop never windmilled on my Rotax 377 powered FireStar and I
always do at LEAST one dead stick landing every time I fly (and by dead
stick, I mean shut the engine off and go all the down to an uneventful
landing). I have also seen no windmilling on other people's Quicksilver GT
400s with both a Rotax 503 and a Rotax 582 installed.
>I was under the impression that it wouldn't due to the gearbox
>ratio, but now I recall Ben saying that the prop would try to turn even at low
>speeds on the trailer.
>
My 377 did the same thing on an open trailer. What the difference between
trailering and flying (with engine off) is, I don't know.
>In Bruce's original message, he talked of in-air restarts using the pull rope.
>If the prop is windmilling, why would this be necessary?
>
>Thanks, Nice discussion so far.
>
>Russell Duffy
>SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
See you in the sky !
Ray Abbruzzese E-Mail at: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu
Lincoln, Nebraska, USA
Standard Disclaimer: These are my opinions and you all know about opinions
(they are like butts, everybody has one). I could be wrong and I probably
am. Just please do not sue me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Will it windmill? |
My mark 2, which had a 503 with a b box, idled at 2200, but when I pulled the
throttle in the air I couldn't get it below 3000. Obviously, the movement
throught the air helped things to the tune of 800-1000 rpm. My guess is that
the "wind mill effect" at Kolb speeds is not enough to overcome the high
compression in the engine. It might help a little in an in-air pull start,
put unless I had altitude to burn I would mess around like that and try a
restart. I never shut down the engine completely in flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Mattsen <dmattsen(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intentional Engine Off |
Ive long been an advocate for practicing actual engine off landings, at
least when done properly. It shouldnt be the traumatic, alter your
laundry schedule experience, everyone seems to make it out to be.
Read On, if you like!
In the early days of powered hang gliders it seemed a rarity to make an
engine on landing. Simply because the high revving chain saw type
motors of the day always quit for one reason or another. Those who
didnt learn how to properly cope with engine off landings, quickly got
out of the sport by choice, or by fatal accident. Those who learned the
piloting skill are probably still flying, and reading this post.
It seems nowadays everyone has to have more powerplant reliability, for
that less and less chance of a power loss. Albeit very nice and worth
while, I have to ponder what part of that seemingly mandatory
reliability, is there just so they dont have to PROVE there lack of
piloting skills. Said another way; it seems as powerplant reliability
goes up, piloting skills go down.
I do not advocate just going up to altitude, say 1000 ft, shutting off
the engine, *and seeing if you can make a safe landing*.
-Performed while under the snoopervision and insight of a GOOD
INSTRUCTOR.-
Ive always advocated teaching engine off landings this way:
Once the student is 100% comfortable and competent at making simulated
engine off landings, and in conditions of little or no wind. I simply
have them get lined up with the runway centerline (900 ft + in length),
on short final, at best glide speed or slightly above, and about 100 ft
from the threshold 30-40 ft above it, then reach over, hit the kill
switch and glide the airplane in for a safe landing.
In this configuration few so-called ultralights have the energy capable
of overshooting the runway, yet to the pilot it appears they are almost
upon the runway at engine shut down, no turns or altitude loss technique
is needed. They do this over and over until they are 100% comfortable
with an engine off touch down. This all but eliminates the traumatic
engine off landing.
The next steps for them, and maybe even you to, are to start working on
engine shut downs higher and farther from the runway. Perhaps from 100
ft high and 400 ft from the runway threshold this time, until you are
100% comfortable. Of course altitude and distance would vary depending
upon the machine in use. Consult a good instructor.
In the weeks and months to follow, before you know it you to could be
practicing gliding from base leg, from downwind leg, from 2000 ft above
the center of the runway, in stronger winds, with crosswind landings,
and so on. Before long youll be practicing procedures to lose
altitude, be it slips, S turns, or if so equipped-flaps. Suddenly
before your very eyes youll mystically and magically transform from a
wuffo-wanna be pilot, to a confident and competent, REAL AVIATOR.
Soaring pilots and hang glider pilots always make engine off landings,
why cant you at least periodically practice them?
Without actual gliding practice, few pilots can look at an intended
emergency landing spot in the distance, and be certain they could even
glide that far given the current conditions, or lose sufficient altitude
to properly land on a runway behind, and 800 ft. below them.
I endorse the aforementioned procedure above because its like learning
to ride a bike with training wheels. While riding the bike the
balancing is done for you, just learn to pedal and turn. In the early
stages of the landing procedure above, the gliding and steering to
runway centerline is already done, just concentrate on proper speed
through touch down and roll out. The beautiful part is youll get to
fly without that gall dang blasted vibrating noise maker, some refer to
as a powerplant.
In closing, with practice and thereby skill, your unexpected engine
off-off field landings shouldnt even equal minor incidents. And if an
ambulance is called, it wont be to rush you to the hospital for
repairs, or to your home to change your underwear.
Mark Hansen wrote:
> If doing it for practice and you stall. I would hate to put a $10,000 pile of
junk on a trailer to get it back to the hanger.
That being the case, the $10,000 pile of whatever has no business being
in the air in the first place. Simply because its missing one very
VITAL SAFETY FEATURE; someone with the skill to safely return it to
mother earth. It should be siting on the ground with its pilot waiting
for an instructor to train him/her how not to stall when the engine is
off, and how to glide the machine down and through ground effect. Often
a bad landing resulting from a forced landing, off or on a runway, is
blamed on a strange gust of wind or downdraft. Seldom does a pilot
have the intestinal fortitude to admit it was poor piloting skill, due
to a lack of practice. IMHO
Russel Duffy wrote:
> With proper care, you could fly hundreds of hours without any real engine problems.
Just knowing that your glide will be less than at idle should be enough.
Even the best maintained and carefully operated machines have been known
to fail. Its just a matter of WHEN if fails. We fly machines that are
designed, manufactured, built, assembled, maintained, and flown by
humans, using fossils fuel products refined, distributed, and installed
by humans. ITS JUST A MATTER OF WHEN ALL GOES SILENT ON YOUR MACHINE.
> I do agree that it will be traumatic the first time it gets quiet, but it would
be almost as bad to cause it myself.
Why should it be such a traumatic thing, just practice it enough so its
not traumatic. Flying, like sex, will always have its ups and downs.
The climactic rush of your first time.........performing a successful
engine off landing that is, will leave you in a state of euphoric
gratification.
Wayne Welsh wrote:
> Almost all of my landings I do dead stick, engine at idle.
Thats nice, but an engine at idle is not quite a dead stick landing.
Both psychologically and by the effect of a spinning prop has on the
machine. Dont believe me? When your proficient at it, and at high
attitude. Fly at best glide speed with the engine at idle. Then reach
out and turn off the engine, youll soon see what you have to do (pitch
wise) to maintain best glide speed.
--
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
May all the stepping stones be high and dry in your walk
across the river of life.
- Dan Mattsen -
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB engine outs, etc, etc |
Engine Outs:
Practicing engine outs is not too big a deal. I agree with Rusty that
the actual experience may still be a heart pounder since the practice
ones are under such controlled conditions. The first easy practices
can be done over a runway say 3-4k long; it is very hard to mess up
with this kind of excess. Also, intentional engine outs are useful
to know how the plane handles. My prop does not windmill, altho' maybe
it kicks around if I dive upto 70. When i've done engine outs i have
run at 3-4k rpm for a minute to reduce any shock cooling chances. I
believe some differential cooling is responsible for making it difficult
to restart in the air. As for my prop turning while trailering, it
only needs to turn 10 degrees to come up against the folded wing, which
can be done without the piston in a compression phase.
On Spins:
This thread has come up before, and in short, i think practicing them
is good. Last time i did some i even thought they were fun. But, i
highly recommend doing them first with an instructor (in any spin approved
plane) as the recovery method needs to be done before you get too fast,
which can happen rapidly in a Kolb. Also, I think a Kolb spin is kind of
a shock the first time you do one, and you can't be sure how you'll react.
I've never gone more than 1.5 turns in my KXP. The most valuable lesson
you will learn from doing spins is not the recovery technique, but rather
that you *will die* if you ever get into one at <500' AGL. Respect thine
airspeed!
On Ground Looping:
I don't have the nerve. Also, I have big fat tires and I think they'd
hold on to even grass, resulting in a mess of the wingtips. If you do
practice these, can you be pretty sure there are no ruts that will catch
the skidding mains? (I once did a wicked motorcycle summersault from
a crossed up power slide and hitting a rut. :-/ )
OK, now on a less serious note...
More Training Requirements, Just For Fun:
Practice ditching in the ocean. How long do i have to get out before the
Stits wings fill up and the plane sinks? I will practice these in
shallow fresh water lakes before moving up to real salt water tests.
Before I go on XC trips I'll strike all my survival kit matches to make
sure they light.
Simulated Prop breakage: Even tho' it is carbon fiber, i'll toss
pennies then quarters, and finally a socket wrench while at cruise.
Exactly what will it be like if this thing ever breaks? This practice
only after aforementioned engine out practice and an extra piece of
twine to hold the engine near CG when the mount bolts break off.
Fuel contamination: While on climbout i will turn around and pour water
in the tank. This to verify that I can get out of the seat and play
with the gas tank while maintaining 40mph climbout, not to mention
gaining exact knowledge on how long a Rotax will run with water in
the fuel. This has an added benefit in proof of FAR 103: Some FAA
inspectors have insisted that any bottles of liquid more than the 5
GAL tank need to either consumed by the pilot or poured into the fuel,
if inspected.
Clevis pin spin tests: I've rigged some strings to the lift strut
clevis pins so that I can pull either one in flight, simulating a
structural failure to either one or both wings. This also to assure
that I have the BRS cable connected pretty tight and in the right
spot.
We can't be too safe... :-) !!!
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
(916) 752-1834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)bitstream.net> |
WillU(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone worry about shock cooling an air cooled engine when shutting it
> down in flight? I don't know that much about 2 cycle engines but I have been
> told I can crack a cylinder if I shock cool the engine in a GA airplane.
>
> Type to you later
> Will Uribe
> http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
Will:
I believe it IS a problem in the winter when the temperature drops below
40 degrees.
During the summer, I think it's OK to shut it off without any thermal
shock to the engine.
Speaking of dead-stick landings, the CG will move aft slightly, forcing
you to use some forward stick. It can be a "fun" experience if you:
1) have a long runway to practice on (2500 feet or more)
2) it's best to do this at a private strip where there will not be any
other aircraft around
3) you are an experienced pilot with 100 hours or more in a Kolb
4) enter the pattern with lots of altitude, slip it (if necessary) to
lose altitude if you misjudge the approach (or you could do "S"
turns to lose)
5) carry plenty of airspeed to make a smooth landing
6) inform someone on the ground that you are going to practice
dead-stick landings
Once I went up to 2500 feet and a mile away from the airport, then shut
it off. I glided back with plenty of altitude to spare, then put it into
a slip to adjust for my approach. The landing was smooth and it was a
"fun" experience.
Ralph B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
I didn't relize there was a difference in lexan or plexy glass, I
thought they were the same. Well I learned something again today. I bought
my plexy at a local lumber yard, is that a bad thing?
Yeah Dave this is a great group, I like all the different opinions there are
on certain subjects, I guess a guy has to figure out for himself which
opinion is the best, all I know is I'll never shut off a good running engine
while flying if I didn't have to.
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
kolb(at)intrig.com (internet!intrig.com!kolb)
you won't cool the engine that fast by turning it off in flight. If you put
snow or water on the engine you could shock it enough to crack it.
Mark Hansen
----------
From: internet!aol.com!WillU
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Engine Outs
Date: Wednesday, April 23, 1997 9:33AM
Does anyone worry about shock cooling an air cooled engine when shutting it
down in flight? I don't know that much about 2 cycle engines but I have
been
told I can crack a cylinder if I shock cool the engine in a GA airplane.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff> |
| Subject: | looking for courses (fwd) |
Earlier, Lejeus _ said:
> From lejeus(at)hotmail.com Tue Apr 22 10:42:18 1997
> To: jeff(at)www.intrig.com
>
> I live in Yarmouth County, Nova Scotia, Canada.
> I am looking for courses on Ultralight's. I had e-mailed a man by the name
of
> Johnny Wells and he has referred me to you.
> Could you please tell me where the nearest course is available to me? Thank
> you for your time and effort!
>
> My email address is lejeus(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thanks!
--
Jeff Stripling | Intrigue Software
stripling(at)intrig.com | www.intrig.com
(817) 847-6973 | "I fear no technology"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Measure twice, cut once? :) |
Just had to pass this on:
http://www.unitedmedia.com/comics/dilbert/archive/dilbert970326.html
It's the Dilbert strip from 3/26. They've got it fixed so that you can't
access it after 1 1/2 months or so, so check it out within a week or so
from now.
(p.s., I used to be able to ftp to the parent directory of these strips and
access a full year's worth of Dilbert strips, but they've disallowed ftp
access now. Can anybody figure out a way around this?)
.....................................................................
Mike Ransom internet: mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu (916) 754-6167
Programmer/Analyst, Dept of Agronomy & Range Science
University of California, Davis, U.S.A.
.....................................................................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: lexan or plexy |
On Wed, 23 Apr 1997, Cal wrote:
> I didn't relize there was a difference in lexan or plexy glass, I
> thought they were the same. Well I learned something again today. I bought
> my plexy at a local lumber yard, is that a bad thing?
Hi Cal,
yes there's a difference:
Plexiglass is a brand name of Acrylic Plastic, and Lexan is a brand name
for Polycarbonate plastic. Polycarbonates are MUCH stronger against
dings,bird strikes, and cracking, and is more abrasion resistant and
less prone to yellowing w/ age. I believe most ULs use Polycarb as does
Kolb.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: lexan or plexy |
>On Wed, 23 Apr 1997, Cal wrote:
>
>> I didn't relize there was a difference in lexan or plexy glass, I
>> thought they were the same. Well I learned something again today. I bought
>> my plexy at a local lumber yard, is that a bad thing?
>
>Hi Cal,
>yes there's a difference:
>Plexiglass is a brand name of Acrylic Plastic, and Lexan is a brand name
>for Polycarbonate plastic. Polycarbonates are MUCH stronger against
>dings,bird strikes, and cracking, and is more abrasion resistant and
>less prone to yellowing w/ age. I believe most ULs use Polycarb as does
>Kolb.
>
I'm not sure if there's any truth to this, but I've heard that Lexan
is much easier to scratch. I don't have any firsthand knowledge; I've
tried very hard to *not* scratch my Lexan. It does seem to be "soft"
which would lead me to believe that it would scratch easily. (For
example, cleaning it with a harsh paper towel, etc...) I don't know
how it compares to plexiglass, but I've heard that sunlight can quickly
degrade it also.
Anyone else know for sure?
What I found neat about my windscreen was that, when I took it off
(its been on the plane for maybe a year) to do some work on the panel,
it went completely straight! You'd think it would want to stay
bent after being that way for so long, but nope... When its on
the ultralight, there must be a constant pushing force as it tries
to get straight again...
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat shoemaker" <friend(at)mail.bright.net> |
HI I have a problem with 503 tack reading when 1 sw. is turned
off Iget 200rpm drop,sw.2 it drops 500 rpm. Iam using grey wire
form trigger coil for the signal.
thanks IA
Duane Zollinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
Had my FAA Inspection this afternoon.
It took about two hours and everything went well.
I hope to be flying in the next couple weeks.
Doug Prange
Lincoln, Nebraska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
At this point the enclosure frame is 1" o.d.tubing, the skin
is 3003 alum. .025x4x10 sheets. The alum. skin cost is about
$225.00 The 1" tubing is about $325.00 and the trailer cost is
about $800.00 for mat. I fabricated mine about 2 yrs. ago.
The enclosure is removable. The est. weight is around
700 - 800 pounds.
JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Kolb: FAA Inspection |
I just talked to my local EAA Tech. advisor who will be
doing a preliminary inspection on my Kolb MKIII. He
was telling me is the first thing he looks at is that ALL
bolts on control surfaces that aren't tight must have
(drilled bolts, castle nuts, with cotter pins installed).
Bolts like those that are used in the elevator push pull
tube with the ball joint were the bolt can be snugged
up tight are OK. The first thing that comes to mind
are the bolts that attach the tail surface control horns
to the control cables. The plans call for the use of the
nyloc type of nut on a undrilled bolt. It sounds like I
may need or want to change them. What have you
guys found???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Unanswered Questons |
To Kolb builders and Flyers,
If anyone sent any questions via email and has not received a reply, please
re-send your questions. I was away for 2+ weeks (Sun-N-Fun) and my mailbox
will filled to full and overflowing. Very probably that some good mail got
trashed with the junk. If you are in a hurry for a response, send email to
both kolb addresses. Thanks.
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
M K -3....,N520KS Made Its 1st Flight on Mon. 4-21-97 . Man was it
GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!! Tach rpm with the ground adj. IVO was 6400 max ,
Stall speed 35mph, Had to hold light right stick,. 1st landing was made
with3500 rpm & I dropped it in . Result was
very minor bow in left gear leg ,{since straightened } ,;& a smile on my
face that won`t go away. I had 2 flights that day totalling 1 hour. I
adjusted flaps to fix left roll trim & hope to go out this eve. again.
Gotta fly !! Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intentional Engine Off |
writes:
<< Flying, like sex, will always have its ups and downs.
The climactic rush of your first time.........performing a successful
engine off landing that is, will leave you in a state of euphoric
gratification. >>
This is a classic!! And Dan I agree with everything you said. Of course, I'm
an old glider pilot, anyway, and have flown ultralites since '83 and am still
waiting for a scary engine out. I've had 2 but they are only "incidents"
during hangar talk. Which usually is with the the GA guys. Its the only way I
can get any respect from them. As far as they are concerned, all airplanes
have engines in the first place! How ridiculous!!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Olendorf(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Firestar gap seal |
I have an original Firestar with the gap seal that has a zipper on it. Well
if finally ripped and now I need to replace it. I have seen pictures of
planes that are using fabric and some that use lexan with what appears to be
an aluminum piece in front to cover the tubes. What would you guys recommend
and how do you do it? What kind of velcro would you use. I think I would
like to go the lexan route. Although the zipper method worked ok and I never
had to worry about it coming off and going into the prop.
Scott Olendorf
Schenectady, NY USA
OLENDORF(at)AOL.COM
1989 Kolb Firestar, Rotax 377
"It is now safe to turn off your computer"
Microsoft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)bitstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar gap seal |
Olendorf(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have an original Firestar with the gap seal that has a zipper on it. Well
> if finally ripped and now I need to replace it. I have seen pictures of
> planes that are using fabric and some that use lexan with what appears to be
> an aluminum piece in front to cover the tubes. What would you guys recommend
> and how do you do it? What kind of velcro would you use. I think I would
> like to go the lexan route. Although the zipper method worked ok and I never
> had to worry about it coming off and going into the prop.
>
> Scott Olendorf
> Schenectady, NY USA
> OLENDORF(at)AOL.COM
> 1989 Kolb Firestar, Rotax 377
>
> "It is now safe to turn off your computer"
> Microsoft
Scott:
I believe you can order the lexan gap seal kit, through Kolb, that will
fit your '89 FireStar. It fits on with with velcro, but you will never
need to worry about it coming off and going through the prop because it
wraps around the leading edge of the wing.
Kolb's number is: 610-948-4136.
Ralph B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar gap seal |
On Sun, 27 Apr 1997 Olendorf(at)aol.com wrote:
> had to worry about it coming off and going into the prop.
Scott,
Here's how i did the lexan seal:
1. I bought the pre-bent leading edge AL piece from Kolb (~ $10).
a standard lexan gap seal.
2. I bought my own lexan in order to use a 1/6" thick piece for the
front half and a 1/32" piece for the back half. The 1/32" is
more flexible which eases clearing the engine when taking it on
and off every time you fly. (BTW, you will probably miss the
convenience of the simple zipper, and hopefully appreciate the
upward visability of the lexan). Also, I wanted the 1/32" just to
continue my picky keep-it-light mentality. I join the 1/16" and
1/32" pieces with a piece of 1" AL angle stock and wide flange pop
rivets, and this is just behind the main spar.
3. I attach to the airplane by a small bungee from the 1" AL angle
piece around the cage top center tube and a backup small bungee
at the very rear of the gap seal around the same tube. Also,
I use one more 6" piece of the 1/16" lexan attaching to the
bottom the leading edge AL piece, and some velcro to hold it
to the bottom of the wing as well as limited velcro on the
top pieces.
Materials:
pre-bent AL sheet leading edge from Kolb
20" x 6" 1/16" lexan bottom
20" x 21" 1/16" lexan top front half
20" x 22" 1/32" lexan top rear half -- V cut out for engine
clearance just like std Kolb plans
17" 1x1x.062 AL angle to join the top halves (I also mounted
my Kuntzelman strobe to the top on this angle piece)
about 20 wide flange pop rivets
Give me an email if you want any other info/details by phone or email.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <msharp(at)tgn.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb Mark III Owner "Wanna be" |
Folks,
Greetings, I have been a member of the E-mail group for several weeks
now
and have enjoyed all that I have learned from the vast knowledge and
experience that has been shared. I have recently sent off for the Kolb
Literature and Video, (my palms get sweaty every time I watch the video), I
live in the Houston Texas area and wondered if there are any Mark III
owners who would mind taking me up sometime to get a feel for the bird
before I plunk down for the first kit. I have been a GA Private Pilot for
10yrs. It goes without saying but I'll say it anyway, I would be happy to
reimburse for fuel etc.
Thanks
Mike Sharp
msharp(at)tgn.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat shoemaker" <friend(at)mail.bright.net> |
Thanks to Duane Mitchell I reversed the 2 wires to the
tach. and it works fine.
Now I have ? about the elevator travel on my FSII
is the up and down deflection supposed to be equal?
Thanks Duane Zollinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Improving performance-MKIII |
Have about 55 hours on my MKIII and am looking for more performance.
Using a Rotax 532/64 hp with the 3-blade IVO, 64" prop. Take off and climb
out solo are good, 200 feet to get off and 1200' per minute climb. BUT...
top end is 80 mph max and the Rotax is wound out to 7000 rpm. Carrying a
passenger, it takes 5900 rpm to maintain altitude, and things just don't
feel very efficient. Since the 532 is torque-limited, it is not possible to
crank in more prop pitch.(If you put in any more pitch, and I mean any, I
have even made shims 1/3 standard thickness, the engine does not want to get
on the pipe, and it sometimes stays flat spotted at 5100 rpm. Takeoff's can
be exciting) Static rpm is 6200 rpm and it turns 6400 rpm on climb out. I
have used 532's before with a Warp Drive 66" 2-blade prop and not had this
problem, obviously the engine is overpropped. Now the question:
Is anyone using a 66" two-blade Warp Drive prop and what engine,and what
kind of speeds at what rpm are you getting?
One more question: Has anyone tried to baffle the interior of the
gap seal to prevent airflow from the cockpit area up through the gap seal
and out around the engine cutout? Apparently it is a way for high pressure
underwing air to escape to the upper low pressure side. A passenger stuck
his hand up into his side of the gap seal in flight and the airflow was
terrific.
Comments?
R Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 2 Kolb Email Addresses |
Subj: RE: Unanswered Questons
Date: 97-04-25 11:37:12 EDT
From: Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com (Scott Bentley)
To: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com ('DLSOUDER(at)aol.com')
Somebody, somewhere wrote:
When you refer to "both Kolb addresses", you really ought to list
them...
dlsouder(at)aol.com
flykolb(at)epix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RIVARD" <RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US> |
HAS ANYONE HAD ANY DEALINGS WITH CAMP EXCELSIOR IN CHATTANOOGA TENN. ?
I WOULD LIKE TO DONATE SOME AIRCRAFT PARTS FROM MY MARK 2 .
BOB
RIVARD(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garrie C Arrington <bustera(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hello everyone
Someone please explain the difference between the kolb mark II and
the mark III. What is price difference now if both are in same
condition.
Thanks and I enjoy the list with it's good info
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat shoemaker" <friend(at)mail.bright.net> |
Hello
I have a 503 ,the hr. meter is conected thru a bridge
to the lighting coil , I measure 38vdc@4000rpm at
the Hobbs is that to high??????
Duane Zollinger FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
A mark 2 has a cabin that is about 10" narrower and uses a 503. A mark 3 can
take a 582. The mark 2 has full span ailerons and no flaps. The mark 3 has
flaps. The gross weight on a mark 2 is 750 on a mark 3 it is 1000.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | quality-care-88(at)juno.com (AARON M LIBERSAT) |
503 ROTAX ENGINE
3-BLADE GSC PROP
ELT, FULL INSTRUMENT PANEL
WHEEL PANTS, HYD. BRAKES
STROBES
SELLING BECAUSE OF LOST MEDICAL
CALL: BUD AT (847) 872-5756
THANKS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
Hi
I am planning to buy larger wheels and tires for my Firestar.
Any comments on the pros/cons of wheel types, metal or plastic , 1 or 2 piece.
Has anyone had a problem with 2 piece wheels like Hegar?
What size tires are too large, too much drag and weight with little
improvment in soft ground.
What catalog company handles the CERMICHROME muffler coating?
I looked in Aircraft Spruce and LEAF and didn't see it there.
Thanks
____________\_/____________
|
(*)
O O
Happy Landings
Charles :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DHawks2799(at)aol.com |
Hey guys,
Where did the Kitfox list move to? I missed the message about the new
address.
Thanks,
David Hawks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Thu, 1 May 1997, Charles Henry wrote:
> Hi
> I am planning to buy larger wheels and tires for my Firestar.
> Any comments on the pros/cons of wheel types, metal or plastic , 1 or 2 piece.
> Has anyone had a problem with 2 piece wheels like Hegar?
> What size tires are too large, too much drag and weight with little
> improvment in soft ground.
i have 6" split aluminum cast wheels from Azusa, with their sealed
"precision" bearings. The wheels are satisfactory, nothing more.
Definetly get the better bearings. For tires i bought 8.00x6 tires and
tubes from Air-Star (800) 247-7827, total about $80 :-). The outside
diam is approx 18-19". I can't imagine really wanting anything bigger.
These could be used at <4 psi, but one problem is that, like a flat tire
on a bike, the tube gets walked around inside, eventually pulling at the
valve stem. This must be remedied occassionally by swapping left and
right so the wheels turn opposite directions, or by breaking the tire off
the rims and pulling the tube back to the correct position. I have been
running with them closer to 5 psi which reduces this tendency, and i can
still let air out if i ever need to. If I squinted I *maybe* noticed a 1
mph drop in cruise speed, compared to my previous tires. This set weighs
6.5 lbs more than my smaller set, which was about 13" outside diam. BTW,
my sand test photos are at: http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/14.html
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o Firestar KXP
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Mattsen <dmattsen(at)isd.net> |
Charles Henry wrote:
> What catalog company handles the CERMICHROME muffler coating?
> I looked in Aircraft Spruce and LEAF and didn't see it there.
You can obtain CERMAKROME directly from the manufacturer if you like.
Tech Line Coatings Inc.
184 Youngblood,
Waxahachie, TX 75165
214-923-0752
214-923-0754 fax
I believe its still 19.95 + shipping per 6 oz. bottle, (more than enough
to coat an entire exhaust system).
Or you can order it from
California Power Systems Inc.
800-AIR WOLF
510-357-4429 fax
Part #C513 @ 24.95 + shipping per 6 oz. bottle
--
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
May all the stepping stones be high and dry in your walk
across the river of life.
- Dan Mattsen -
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All,
I have been monitoring your location for some time now. I enjoy the varied
dialog and overall helpfulness of the group. I'm recently retired and
contemplating building a Firefly. I have a couple of questions I would like
your input on.
I am a low time pilot having just recently soloed in an Aeronca Champ. How
does the Firefly compare to the Champ in flight characteristics ?
I will be a first time builder, so how complex is the project and how
thorough is the builders manual?
Lastly I live in Arizona, like low and slow flying. Is the Firefly the right
bird?
Thanks
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | firestar 2 weights |
I just did my weight and balance on my Firestar 2 and the plane weighs 400
pounds. I was wondering what other builders have for their weights.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
Guys,,, Need some help . Hour meter hooked up on 503 per Kolb plans , have
elec . start with batt . & reg.-rectifier . 6 Hours on this setup .
Hourmeter quit after 1.1 hrs. I checked all connections& ran hobbs on the
bench hooked up to a small transformer & it worked o k . Back on plane it
quit again after .1 hr. Removed from plane & it worked o k on bench
.Hooked up again with all soldered connections & held it in my hand during
next flight to isolate from vibration & it wouldn`t work at all . Brought
it home & it works fine on the transformer .Any Ideas??????????? Thanks
Jim P.S. The battery must be getting charged, as it starts the
503 just as good as the 1st time, & the reg.-rectifier gets warm ..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Hi,
I'm wanting to hook up a cig. lighter socket for use with a GPS. I have
a firestar II and in checking for hot wires noticed that the hour meter
seemed like a good bet. I'm thinking of hooking into the wires for the
hour meter, any opinions would be appreciated. Also my manual on the
Magellen 2000 says that it will retain memory for twenty min. with dead
batteries, yet when I use the power supply in my car instead of the
batteries it still has its memory after the power is shut off all night.
Anyone know anything on this? Would it still retain its mem in the
firestar?
Thanks Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | firestar II weight |
My firestar II weighs 385 pounds. Plane is equipped with 503 d.c.-
streamline
struts - 3 gal. polybrush - 3 gal. polyspray - 3 gal. aeothane - 1/2 gal.
for stripes -
wheel pants - hydraulic brakes - battery - BRS chute - 8 pounds of lead up
in the nose. Full instrument panel. Aluminum and lexan center gap seal.
JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi yall,
I'm thinking of adding an electric starter and it seems that the pull starter
has to be removed in the process. Can the engine (503) be hand propped if you
ever found yourself with a dead battery? How hard is it to do?
Thanks. Haven't been able to work on the SS at all recently due to work
schedules, but hopefully, I'll be back on it in a couple weeks. Falling way
behind schedule :-(
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Power for GPS |
Depends on what's powering your hourmeter. The GPS must have a regulated,
filtered 14 VDC. Some hourmeter installations (like my Mk II) don't even
use rectified output, i.e. my hourmeter gets 0-40 VAC right off the smaller
lighting coil. This would fry a GPS instantly.
Are you using the Kuntzleman box, the Rotax regulator, or some other
regulator/rectifier?
The Magellan uses a very small amount of juice from the batteries to retain
the memory even when the unit is switched off. So as long as the batteries
are installed, the memory will be retained. Using an external power supply
won't affect this.
But if the internal batteries are completely dead, or removed, there's
enough charge stored up in the internal capacitors to retain the memory for
20 minutes or so.
This is a pretty standard design for these types of devices.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand starting |
>Hi yall,
>
>I'm thinking of adding an electric starter and it seems that the pull starter
>has to be removed in the process. Can the engine (503) be hand propped if
you
>ever found yourself with a dead battery? How hard is it to do?
>
>Thanks. Haven't been able to work on the SS at all recently due to work
>schedules, but hopefully, I'll be back on it in a couple weeks. Falling way
>behind schedule :-(
>
>
I've seen some ads in catalogs like CPS and LEAF for electric
starters that retain the pull starter. I'm not sure if this is for
all engines, or only certain ones, but I've got the catalogs out
in my truck. I'll take a look during lunch and give you some more
info.
I'd hate to have to hand-prop a Kolb! I like being out in front so
I can hold it back, and kill the engine quickly if I have to. If it
was to go WOT, all you could do is hang onto the tail boom and hope it
runs out of gas before you do. ;) I'm sure you could tie it down and
add a snowmobile/jetski type kill switch that attaches to you with a wire,
but having to do that would be a real pain in the butt! :)
Anyway, I'll look that up and get back to you. If I remember right,
it wasn't as expensive as I thought it might be. I thought (in a semi-
serious way) about getting one for my FireFly, but there's no way I
could even pretend to be legal with those extra 10 lbs. :)
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
>
>>Guys,,, Need some help . Hour meter hooked up on 503 per Kolb plans , have
>>elec . start with batt . & reg.-rectifier . 6 Hours on this setup .
>>Hourmeter quit after 1.1 hrs. I checked all connections& ran hobbs on the
>>bench hooked up to a small transformer & it worked o k . Back on plane it
>>quit again after .1 hr. Removed from plane & it worked o k on bench
>>.Hooked up again with all soldered connections & held it in my hand during
>>next flight to isolate from vibration & it wouldn`t work at all . Brought
>>it home & it works fine on the transformer .Any Ideas??????????? Thanks
>>Jim P.S. The battery must be getting charged, as it starts the
>>503 just as good as the 1st time, & the reg.-rectifier gets warm ..
>>
>>
>
>
Hi I had the same problem. Is your hour meter hooked up to the AC side of
your regulator - rectifier? The reg. - rectifier will short out your ac
coming from your engine as soon as the battery has been recharged after the
motor has started. My hour meter would run for a short while and then stop.
I had a heck of a time with it. I then connected an AC voltmeter onto the
AC supply coming from the motor and watched it as the battery charged just
after starting. The voltage decayed down to zero as the battery became
fully charged. You will have to run your hour meter from your battery.
You can switch your hour meter on and off manually or you can purchase an
electronic headlight switch. It is designed for older cars that have
headlights that do not come on when the engine is started. It has a sensor
wire that wraps around a spark plug lead and soon as the engine starts the
headlights come on. This device can be used to turn your hour meter on
automatically. It should cost about $20.00.
Kim
Saskatchewan Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand starting |
[...]
> Anyway, I'll look that up and get back to you. If I remember right,
>it wasn't as expensive as I thought it might be. I thought (in a semi-
>serious way) about getting one for my FireFly, but there's no way I
>could even pretend to be legal with those extra 10 lbs. :)
>
Well, it sure wasn't CPS! Their system is almost $700! Its only 3lbs
as compared to the 10lb one I saw, and it looks like it replaces the
starter rope. Maybe I saw it in SkySports? That catalog is at home,
so I'll have to check into that later.
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Mattsen <dmattsen(at)isd.net> |
So SORRY, some of you may be receiving the message below twice. I got a
notice from compuserve that it was rejected, so I'm posting it again.
Charles Henry wrote:
> What catalog company handles the CERMICHROME muffler coating?
> I looked in Aircraft Spruce and LEAF and didn't see it there.
You can obtain CERMAKROME directly from the manufacturer if you like.
Tech Line Coatings Inc.
184 Youngblood,
Waxahachie, TX 75165
214-923-0752
214-923-0754 fax
I believe its still 19.95 + shipping per 6 oz. bottle, (more than enough
to coat an entire exhaust system).
Or you can order it from
California Power Systems Inc.
800-AIR WOLF
510-357-4429 fax
Part #C513 @ 24.95 + shipping per 6 oz. bottle
--
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
May all the stepping stones be high and dry in your walk
across the river of life.
- Dan Mattsen -
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas.tw.lloyd(at)ae.ge.com |
brian.walter(at)lmco.com, faycal(at)ias.com, GeorgeZiga(at)oai.com,
gfmartin(at)mailgw.sanders.lockheed.com, gillivjo(at)pssch.ps.ge.com,
gmenzer(at)motown.mmc.com, HK(at)iti.org, jbross(at)one.net,
kipblake(at)bigfoot.com, kolb(at)intrig.com,
Len_Thibault(at)ccmail.wilm.aapi.com, michaelsalkind(at)oai.org,
r.hook(at)ieee.org, schneiter(at)crd.ge.com
| Subject: | The Married Philosopher (fwd) |
A Question for only the philosophers:
If a man speaks in the forest and there is no woman to hear him........is he
still wrong?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Harrison" <Kenneth_Harrison(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax Engine Life |
Does anyone know the average lifetime of a Rotax 377 or 447 engine? I think
Rotax lists it as 300 hours, but is that realistic?
Thanks, Ken Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)bscn.com> |
To Larry Cottrell--- You wrote
>Hi,
> I'm wanting to hook up a cig. lighter socket for use with a GPS. I have
>a firestar II and in checking for hot wires noticed that the hour meter
>seemed like a good bet. I'm thinking of hooking into the wires for the
>hour meter, any opinions would be appreciated. Also my manual on the
>Magellen 2000 says that it will retain memory for twenty min. with dead
>batteries, yet when I use the power supply in my car instead of the
>batteries it still has its memory after the power is shut off all night.
>Anyone know anything on this? Would it still retain its mem in the
>firestar?
When you have the gps in your auto, you might be feeding power to the gps
from the
auto battery constantly. Not all cigarette lighters are turned off with
the key. I just checked,
and my ford pu is always on, while the wife's honda takes a key. If memory
serves me,
my old truck, a 77 Datsun was also always on.
Tom King
My name is king; my house is a dome; and its MY road.
124 King Dome Rd.
kingdome(at)bscn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Hobbs meter switch |
Have not yet put a Hobbs on my MKIII, but on the last airplane I had
a Radio Shack SPDT contact switch #275-016 attached next to the throttle
lever. When you had the throttle at idle, the contacts were open. As soon as
you pushed the throttle off idle, the contacts closed and the Hobbs started
running off the aircraft's 12V battery. All you need is to have the switched
mounted in such a way that part of the throttle mashes the lever at idle,
you may have to add a little tab to the throttle lever to contact the switch
lever. It costs $1.99. You can't keep track of your idle time, but do you care?
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kerry Ford <skyfox(at)dundee.net> |
brian.walter(at)lmco.com, faycal(at)ias.com, GeorgeZiga(at)oai.com,
gfmartin(at)mailgw.sanders.lockheed.com, gillivjo(at)pssch.ps.ge.com,
gmenzer(at)motown.mmc.com, HK(at)iti.org, jbross(at)one.net,
kipblake(at)bigfoot.com, kolb(at)intrig.com,
Len_Thibault(at)ccmail.wilm.aapi.com, michaelsalkind(at)oai.org,
r.hook(at)ieee.org, schneiter(at)crd.ge.com
| Subject: | Re: The Married Philosopher (fwd) |
thomas.tw.lloyd(at)ae.ge.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
> A Question for only the philosophers:
>
> If a man speaks in the forest and there is no woman to hear him........is he
> still wrong?
>
>
>
Thomas,
Since the act of being wrong is subjective, we can consider the act of
being wrong a perception. If there is no woman around to percieve the
this act, then the man cannot be wrong.
My wife, who is looking over my shoulder, says that I am wrong, and I
didn't even voice my thoughts! Since I have been judged wrong without
making a sound, does this mean that a man is wrong for thinking in the
presence of a woman?
-skyfox
ps (Please, excuse me for responding to this on an aviation forum. I
couldn't help myself. Again, for this, my wife says that I am wrong!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | xxx <propwash(at)gte.net> |
Sorry to report a crash of A FireFly. Problem was , surely pilot error.
Pilot had been experimenting with an IVO 3 bladed prop. He was informed
by son that 6200 rpm was needed static. No more than 1150 EGT. 350 CHT.
Fuel is clean,Ing. is fine. Tommarow will check plugs and pistons for
overheating.
On takeoff engine ran up ok, then at about 300-400 feet lost power
to about 3800 rpm.
The runway is 7500 feet. Aircraft impacted on asphalt. full stall.
40-45mph.
Well thanks to A STRONG WELDED CAGE , Pop wasen't hurt , just pride.
Gear is bent 90% out.. Cage tubeing is buckled behind rt. landing gear.
Well these things happen, he has over 500 HR. and not a ding.
I'M glad he was in a Kolb..............
Before.. harley
now propwash(at)gte.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Olendorf(at)aol.com |
I have the original Firestar with Rotax 377 and BRS chute, brakes. I weighed
it with a bathroom scale and it comes to 277 lbs. I could not believe this
myself.
I didn't think that the Firestar II was that much bigger. I guess thats why
they decided to go back and make the Firefly.
Scott Olendorf
Schenectady, NY USA
OLENDORF(at)AOL.COM
1989 Kolb Firestar, Rotax 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
This sunday night may 4th there's a program on tv called flight path,
this episode is about ultralight and light plane flying. It's on a cable
channel called "trio" at 11:00 pm central time.
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Satterwhite <fsatt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Remove from list |
Pleaseremove me from your mailing list. my address is
fsatt(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Thanks- hand starting |
Thanks for all the responses to my hand starting question. I would actually
prefer to get rid of the pull rope. I just wanted to make sure there would
still be a way to get home if the battery dies somewhere. Also, thanks for
your concern- I will be very careful if I ever have to do it (tie down, gloves
for IVO prop, etc).
Later,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Morale: FLY THE AIRPLANE
7500 foot of runway to use......and splot
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: crash
Date: 5/2/97 10:02 PM
Sorry to report a crash of A FireFly. Problem was , surely pilot error.
Pilot had been experimenting with an IVO 3 bladed prop. He was informed
by son that 6200 rpm was needed static. No more than 1150 EGT. 350 CHT.
Fuel is clean,Ing. is fine. Tommarow will check plugs and pistons for
overheating.
On takeoff engine ran up ok, then at about 300-400 feet lost power
to about 3800 rpm.
The runway is 7500 feet. Aircraft impacted on asphalt. full stall.
40-45mph.
Well thanks to A STRONG WELDED CAGE , Pop wasen't hurt , just pride.
Gear is bent 90% out.. Cage tubeing is buckled behind rt. landing gear.
Well these things happen, he has over 500 HR. and not a ding.
I'M glad he was in a Kolb..............
Before.. harley
now propwash(at)gte.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hand starting |
Taint so. I talked to CPS while at Sun & Fun. Yes, you can have
both. It's not the Rotax kit but another. One thing I didn't ask was
if you retain the oil injection. I just read something about loosing
the oil injection when adding the starter. I believe it was in UL
Flyer magazine, maybe the May issue. A company by name AGL or
something like that (it was in the first couple pages where that have
items about various companies) makes the starter kit where can have it
all. That was the company I was looking at any way, several companies
sell their product, as a kit with accessories such as wire, rectifier,
solenoid, etc or without.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Hand starting
Date: 5/2/97 8:10 AM
Hi yall,
I'm thinking of adding an electric starter and it seems that the pull starter
has to be removed in the process. Can the engine (503) be hand propped if you
ever found yourself with a dead battery? How hard is it to do?
Thanks. Haven't been able to work on the SS at all recently due to work
schedules, but hopefully, I'll be back on it in a couple weeks. Falling way
behind schedule :-(
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
First do you have to determine if you have a DC or AC flavor Hobbs
meter. They sell both and no, their not interchangeable.
Since you indicate that connecting it to a transformer on the bench it
works OK, that tends to make me believe that you have an AC version.
What are voltage input specifications for the Hobbs meter you have,
check the paper work that came with the unit:
AC or DC input voltage:
Minimum/Maximum voltage range:
Frequency range of AC input:
First, myself I would minimize connection of anything to the generator
coil (note this is not the spark plug coils) which supplies power for
the ignition system other than is essential.
There should be another generator coil which I believe they refer to
as the lighting coil. This is the high current output coil normally
used to supply power for external devices and accessories. The leads
from the coil should be connected to AC terminals of the
rectifier/regulator. The rectifier/regulator should have two
terminals identified as AC-In or a Sine Wave symbol, or Coil-Side, the
other terminals will indicate something like DC + and DC - or Ground.
The DC terminals are the rectified output (or DC voltage).
If your connecting an AC version Hobbs to the DC side, your may be
temporary operating off some AC ripple which may appear and reduce as
filtering capacitors charge up or as the load the battery creates
while it is charging. Have you noticed that some of the less
expensive rectifier/regular units note that a battery must be
connected and more expensive units do not have that stipulation.
If you have a DC meter, connected to the DC terminal of the rectifier
supply the voltage to keep it running. If you have a AC version, the
AC voltage would disappear when the engine stopped, thus the Hobbs
meter likewise should stop.
Some may be using a separate second rectifier on the ignition
generator coil to create DC for powering a DC version of the Hobbs.
When the engine stopped so would the meter since the power source
would be down. My personal preference is to minimize the connections
to that coil to improve on reliability.
OK you guys with Hobbs that turn on and off with the engine, what are
you using AC or DC models and where do you have it connected.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Hobbs
Date: 5/2/97 11:06 AM
>
>>Guys,,, Need some help . Hour meter hooked up on 503 per Kolb plans , have
>>elec . start with batt . & reg.-rectifier . 6 Hours on this setup .
>>Hourmeter quit after 1.1 hrs. I checked all connections& ran hobbs on the
>>bench hooked up to a small transformer & it worked o k . Back on plane it
>>quit again after .1 hr. Removed from plane & it worked o k on bench
>>.Hooked up again with all soldered connections & held it in my hand during
>>next flight to isolate from vibration & it wouldn`t work at all . Brought
>>it home & it works fine on the transformer .Any Ideas??????????? Thanks
>>Jim P.S. The battery must be getting charged, as it starts the
>>503 just as good as the 1st time, & the reg.-rectifier gets warm ..
>>
>>
>
>
Hi I had the same problem. Is your hour meter hooked up to the AC side of
your regulator - rectifier? The reg. - rectifier will short out your ac
coming from your engine as soon as the battery has been recharged after the
motor has started. My hour meter would run for a short while and then stop.
I had a heck of a time with it. I then connected an AC voltmeter onto the
AC supply coming from the motor and watched it as the battery charged just
after starting. The voltage decayed down to zero as the battery became
fully charged. You will have to run your hour meter from your battery.
You can switch your hour meter on and off manually or you can purchase an
electronic headlight switch. It is designed for older cars that have
headlights that do not come on when the engine is started. It has a sensor
wire that wraps around a spark plug lead and soon as the engine starts the
headlights come on. This device can be used to turn your hour meter on
automatically. It should cost about $20.00.
Kim
Saskatchewan Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand starting |
At 01:03 AM 5/3/97 cst, you wrote:
> Taint so. I talked to CPS while at Sun & Fun. Yes, you can have
> both. It's not the Rotax kit but another. One thing I didn't ask was
> if you retain the oil injection. I just read something about loosing
> the oil injection when adding the starter. I believe it was in UL
> Flyer magazine, maybe the May issue. A company by name AGL or
> something like that (it was in the first couple pages where that have
> items about various companies) makes the starter kit where can have it
> all. That was the company I was looking at any way, several companies
> sell their product, as a kit with accessories such as wire, rectifier,
> solenoid, etc or without.
>
Well, I couldn't find my SkySports catalog, but I looked in the LEAF
catalog, and they have what looks like the starter I was talking about.
It weighs 10lbs, and retains the pull starter. There are a few different
"kits" you can buy (basic, deluxe, etc) which determine how much stuff comes
with them and how much they cost. It ranges from $460-$525 from LEAF. I'm
almost positive it was cheaper in the SkySports catalog.
There's a note in the LEAF catalog (p. 160) that says: "NOTE: Starter
Kit does not retrofit on engines with oil injection."
Personally, (if I were going to get an electric starter) I'd like to
retain the pull starter, just for the added safety and convenience. This
kit does that, and its cheaper than the UK imported CPS one, but at the
cost of being 7lbs heavier. Tough pill to swallow if you're a true
ultralight, and not an experimental.
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Re[2]: Hobbs |
At 02:13 AM 03/05/97 cst, you wrote:
> First do you have to determine if you have a DC or AC flavor Hobbs
> meter. They sell both and no, their not interchangeable.
>
> Since you indicate that connecting it to a transformer on the bench it
> works OK, that tends to make me believe that you have an AC version.
>
> What are voltage input specifications for the Hobbs meter you have,
> check the paper work that came with the unit:
> AC or DC input voltage:
> Minimum/Maximum voltage range:
> Frequency range of AC input:
>
> First, myself I would minimize connection of anything to the generator
> coil (note this is not the spark plug coils) which supplies power for
> the ignition system other than is essential.
>
> There should be another generator coil which I believe they refer to
> as the lighting coil. This is the high current output coil normally
> used to supply power for external devices and accessories. The leads
> from the coil should be connected to AC terminals of the
> rectifier/regulator. The rectifier/regulator should have two
> terminals identified as AC-In or a Sine Wave symbol, or Coil-Side, the
> other terminals will indicate something like DC + and DC - or Ground.
> The DC terminals are the rectified output (or DC voltage).
>
> If your connecting an AC version Hobbs to the DC side, your may be
> temporary operating off some AC ripple which may appear and reduce as
> filtering capacitors charge up or as the load the battery creates
> while it is charging. Have you noticed that some of the less
> expensive rectifier/regular units note that a battery must be
> connected and more expensive units do not have that stipulation.
>
> If you have a DC meter, connected to the DC terminal of the rectifier
> supply the voltage to keep it running. If you have a AC version, the
> AC voltage would disappear when the engine stopped, thus the Hobbs
> meter likewise should stop.
>
> Some may be using a separate second rectifier on the ignition
> generator coil to create DC for powering a DC version of the Hobbs.
> When the engine stopped so would the meter since the power source
> would be down. My personal preference is to minimize the connections
> to that coil to improve on reliability.
>
> OK you guys with Hobbs that turn on and off with the engine, what are
> you using AC or DC models and where do you have it connected.
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: Hobbs
>Author: Kim Steiner at MAILGATE
>Date: 5/2/97 11:06 AM
>
>
>
>>
>>>Guys,,, Need some help . Hour meter hooked up on 503 per Kolb plans , have
>>>elec . start with batt . & reg.-rectifier . 6 Hours on this setup .
>>>Hourmeter quit after 1.1 hrs. I checked all connections& ran hobbs on the
>>>bench hooked up to a small transformer & it worked o k . Back on plane it
>>>quit again after .1 hr. Removed from plane & it worked o k on bench
>>>.Hooked up again with all soldered connections & held it in my hand during
>>>next flight to isolate from vibration & it wouldn`t work at all . Brought
>>>it home & it works fine on the transformer .Any Ideas??????????? Thanks
>>>Jim P.S. The battery must be getting charged, as it starts the
>>>503 just as good as the 1st time, & the reg.-rectifier gets warm ..
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>Hi I had the same problem. Is your hour meter hooked up to the AC side of
>your regulator - rectifier? The reg. - rectifier will short out your ac
>coming from your engine as soon as the battery has been recharged after the
>motor has started. My hour meter would run for a short while and then stop.
>I had a heck of a time with it. I then connected an AC voltmeter onto the
>AC supply coming from the motor and watched it as the battery charged just
>after starting. The voltage decayed down to zero as the battery became
>fully charged. You will have to run your hour meter from your battery.
>
>You can switch your hour meter on and off manually or you can purchase an
>electronic headlight switch. It is designed for older cars that have
>headlights that do not come on when the engine is started. It has a sensor
>wire that wraps around a spark plug lead and soon as the engine starts the
>headlights come on. This device can be used to turn your hour meter on
>automatically. It should cost about $20.00.
>
>Kim
>
>Saskatchewan Canada
>
>
>
In reply to :
You have some excellent points that I did not elaborate on in my original
reply. I agree that you must determine if you have an ac or a dc hobbs
meter. If you started out with a dc hobbs meter connected to a bridge
rectifier you could have run the dc meter on your ac coming from your
engine. If you started out with an ac hour meter you will not be able to
run it on dc. Let me clarify my last statement - you can run an ac meter
from dc with an inverter. An inverter is expensive, probably more expensive
than a new dc hour meter.
There will be some AC ripple coming through the DC side of the regulator -
rectifier. I do not know if this will be maintained after the battery is
fully charged as the incoming AC is shorted out within the regulator -
rectifier. I do not claim to fully understand the internal workings of the
three phase regulator - rectifier, I just know that there is no AC
available on the AC side after the battery is fully charged.
I started with a DC meter and used a $2.00 Radio Shack bridge rectifier
epoxied to the back of the hour meter. I discovered that this would not
function for more than a few minutes after each start up (see my original
post). I then removed the rectifier and connected the hour meter to the
battery.
I have a Rotax three phase no. 9251 rectifier regulator, THIS PIECE OF
EQUIPMENT SHORTS OUT THE AC SUPPLY WHEN THE BATTERY BECOMES CHARGED. You
can not run an hour meter connected across its AC leads. This can be
confirmed by connecting an AC voltmeter across the AC motor leads and
observing the declining voltage after start up.
An AC power separator will also solve the hour meter problem. The power
separator will take the one AC supply coming from your engine and provide
you with two isolated AC supplies. When your regulator shorts out its AC
supply the other AC supply will not be affected. The 1994-95 LEAF catalog
has this device on page 133.
I solved my hour meter problems by running it on DC that is automatically
switched with an electronic automotive headlight switch (see my original
post). The wire coming from this device and going to the sparkplug wire is
not connected to the high voltage circuitry of the ignition system. This
wire is just wrapped around the sparkplug wire. A very small charge is
induced into the electronic circuitry of the headlight switch. The
headlight switch is then turned on.
The reply to the original post that used a switch on the throttle was
another excellent idea. His system of turning the hour meter on and off is
simpler and cheaper than mine. Whatever system you use to turn your hour
meter on and off can also be used to control other equipment. I have a 582
Rotax. I have a water temp gauge that is on the same circuit that my hour
meter is on.
Kim (BKS)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand Starting |
Hey, I found my SkySports catalog! :)
The electric starter is on page 42 of the 1997-1998 edition. Here's what
is says:
GPL electric starter kit fits Rotax 377, 447, 503, 532, 582, and 612.
Allows you to retain both pull start and (if installed) oil injection
system. Unique system will not disable engine in case of malfunction.
Assembly installation is 10lbs. Very easy to install! Basic kit
includes motor, mounting adapter, and all hardware. Deluxe kit includes
basic kit plus all wiring, solenoid, switch, and regulator/rectifier.
Requires 19amp battery.
Basic kit: $389
Deluxe kit: $439
Add $25 for Rotax 612
I don't know anything about this starter (or any starter, for that matter)
but based on price and features, this one is a lot less expensive than
either the CPS or the LEAF system, and unlike the other systems, lets you
keep both the pull starter and oil injection. An obvious drawback
for true ULs is its 10lb weight (same as the LEAF system, but 7lbs more
than the CPS system) If I were looking for an electric starter, I'd have
to do some more research obviously, but this SkySports (GPL) model would
have a pretty comforatable lead!!
I hope this helps someone...
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Steadman <fstead(at)fastlane.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand Starting |
Jon Steiger wrote: (about an electric starter)
> An obvious drawback for true ULs is its 10lb weight
Part 103 allows a builder to exempt the weight of certain safety
equipment from the 254 lbs?
Can an electric starter be considered to be safety equipment, "intended
for deployment in a potentially catistrophic situation"? Perhaps, if
you promised to never use it for normal ground starts, it might fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand Starting |
On Mon, 5 May 1997, Fred Steadman wrote:
> Part 103 allows a builder to exempt the weight of certain safety
> equipment from the 254 lbs?
>
> Can an electric starter be considered to be safety equipment, "intended
> for deployment in a potentially catistrophic situation"? Perhaps, if
> you promised to never use it for normal ground starts, it might fly.
>
No chance. FAR 103 has the inertia of 15 years allowing only parachutes
on the airplane as safety equipment allowed beyond the 254 lbs. I'd let
a dead horse lay, meaning it is more productive to lobby for improvements
to FAR 130 than to look for loopholes.
Then as a total aside, my theory is that if the engine quit by itself for
a reason other than fuel starvation, there is practically NO CHANCE it would
restart, by electric starter or otherwise. So, the best philosopy IMHO is to
forget the damn engine and fly the plane (er, glider such as it may be).
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: SOOB: Fuel Sight Gauge |
Russell, I believe it was you who asked about a fuel gage for your
Slingshot. This suggestion was from another airplane group that I get
mail on. Instead of mounting on the dash maybe it could be mounted
along the side of the seat or some place it would be relatively easy to
see.
>----------
>From: Barry Davis[SMTP:bed(at)atl.mindspring.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 1997 4:49 AM
>To: airsoob(at)interstice.com
>Subject: SOOB: Fuel Sight Gauge
>
>The best, cheap, reliable and easy to install gauge is from a VW about 1965.
>It had a top mounted sender with a float extending down. It then was
>connected to the gauge on the dash panel with a cable like a spedo cable.
>All mechanical. Just repaint the gauge to match the depth of your tank.
>Works great and no electricity. This also works great for the main tank
>behind the engine.
>
>Barry
>bed(at)mindspring.com
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>airsoob is hosted courtesy of Interstice Inc., a provider of reasonably
>priced virtual domain hosting for the world, and dedicated circuit and
>dialup for Silicon Valley. http://www.interstice.com (408) 369-4490
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antenna mounting |
Hola
Will a radio antenna work if it is installed inside of a Kolbs wing? Or does
that only work on composite airplanes.
Type to you later
Will Uribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna mounting |
>Hola
>
>Will a radio antenna work if it is installed inside of a Kolbs wing? Or does
>that only work on composite airplanes.
>
>Type to you later
>Will Uribe
>
> Have gotten real good results on my MKIII with this home made rig:
Took a scrap of .020 alum sheet and doped it to the inside of the fabric
that is on the bottom of the fuselage behind the main gear , and off to one
side of the big rear tube. Make it as big as you can so that it will be a
good ground plane for the signal. Drill a hole in it and fit a through
fitting that accepts BNC connectors and is male on both ends.(Radio shack
part # UG-914 BNC will work, but your local avionics shop has a better one
that threads tightly into place, costs more too) Attach your radio coax
cable on the inside and on the outside get a Radio Shack Twist-on-male BNC
#278-103. Get a 1/16" model airplane piano wire 25" long and carefully grind
one end to a needle taper so that it will fit into the center connecter of
the twist-on-male BNC. Seat it snugly and then fill the hexagonal shank up
with 5 minute epoxy. Put a nice curve in it so that it won't drag on the
ground when you taxi and you're all set. Cheap and the tower says it is loud
and clear 15 miles out.
R Pike
Technical counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bakerv4(at)cdsnet.net (James Baker) |
Hi All,
A very good friend of mine recently purchased a Kolb Firestar, with a Rotax
447 engine. What a great little airplane!!
We are operating off a field that is 4600' ASL, using a 55 main jet with the
needle set at the #1 position, (top position). Outside air temperatures have
been in the high 50s to low 60s. The EGT has been showing 1000 degrees at
full throttle and 1100 degrees at reduced throttle turning 5000 RPM or less.
The problem seems to be at RPM's between 5000 and 6000, the EGT slowly rises
to 1200 degrees. Cylinder temperature is running at 350 degrees. As soon as
you go to full throttle or reduce it below 5000 RPM it cools right down. Is
this normal and are we using the correct jetting and needle settings for our
altitude? I believe the needle is the stock needle that came in it, not sure
of the numbers on it. Plugs have been inspected and appear normal, light
brown in color.
I hope I have given enough information to solve the problem.
See you at Christmas Valley, Oregon Fly-In this weekend.
jb
************************************
* Jim & Elaine Baker *
* 2934 Cortez Street *
* Klamath Falls, Oregon State *
* Postal zone 97601 *
* bakerv4(at)cdsnet.net *
* (541) 884-5900 *
************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Hand Starting |
Actually, using it I think would be a safer operation. Propping has
proven to be dangerous. This is part of why a 360# single plave UL
makes more sense.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Hand Starting
Date: 5/5/97 5:58 PM
Jon Steiger wrote: (about an electric starter)
> An obvious drawback for true ULs is its 10lb weight
Part 103 allows a builder to exempt the weight of certain safety
equipment from the 254 lbs?
Can an electric starter be considered to be safety equipment, "intended
for deployment in a potentially catistrophic situation"? Perhaps, if
you promised to never use it for normal ground starts, it might fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | misc questions on a rainy day |
Aileron and Flap gap seals:
The plans call for the stits polyester fabric, others have suggested using
PolyTape (a clear self-adhesive very tough polyethylene tape available at
the hardware store), any other good experiences? tips for the Polytape?
Folding the wings:
When the wings are folded on a MarkIII, do the ailerons end up folded inside,
mine won't go completely flat so the wings have to lean outward to allow some
clearance between the tail surfaces and the almost-folded ailerons. Is that
the normal?
Oil in 582, experiences...
Anyone using AV-2 (50/50 blend of Petroleum and Synthetic)?
How about Blizzard oil (Rotax original equip for injection-equipped
snowmobiles and watercraft, pure petroleum)?
Whatever Injection oil I decide to run in the Rotax, is it also OK to use
that same injection oil as a premix oil in my chainsaw, weedwacker, Lawnboy,
margarita blender (also 2-stroke powered), etc., or is it diluted or what?
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | segarcts <segarcts(at)qtm.net> |
| Subject: | Questions on Kolb Fire Star KXP |
I bought a Kolb FireStar KXP that was wrecked in the top of a tree.I had to
rebuild the right wing,When i went to install the wing I found out that the
leading edge was off 1/2 inch to match the left wing.I figured that maybe
the frame got bent. I figured that the hole in the forwared mount was off
1/4 of an inch.I longated the hole on the wing which now ever thing lines
up.I thought of welding a washer to wing support .Any sugestings??????
Also what do you glue the velcro to the wing with,for the gap seal.
. Charlie Segar
Bridgman Mi.
segarcts(at)qtm.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johanng(at)ok.is> |
Hi Kolb builders and flyers.
I am building my second Firestar II and my project is in the final stages.
I was heat-shrinking the stits poly fiber cloth on the second wing, an all
of a sudden, the fabric tore, with a big gap, approx 2" long.
I had the setting on 200deg F.
This has never happened to me before, and I did not notice any damage in the
fabric before I started the heat-shrinking. I had the iron calibrated to the
correct temperature, from 200deg.F to 335degF.
Can the calibration change after prolonged use?
Has anyone had this same experiance with the Poly Fiber Fabric?
Jhann G.Jhannsson
Iceland.
johanng(at)ok.is
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony Hinkelmann <hink(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RE: firestar 2 weights |
what all did you strap on to your firestar?? I have two tanks, a BRS,
brakes, carpet, dual harnesses, and all the stuff I could mount to the
dash and Mine is 325 lbs
-----Original Message-----
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com [SMTP:Timandjan(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 1997 7:57 PM
To: Kolb(at)www.intrig.com
Subject: Kolb-List: firestar 2 weights
I just did my weight and balance on my Firestar 2 and the plane weighs
400
pounds. I was wondering what other builders have for their weights.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 6 May 1997, James Baker wrote:
> We are operating off a field that is 4600' ASL, using a 55 main jet with the
> needle set at the #1 position, (top position). Outside air temperatures have
> been in the high 50s to low 60s. The EGT has been showing 1000 degrees at
> full throttle and 1100 degrees at reduced throttle turning 5000 RPM or less.
> The problem seems to be at RPM's between 5000 and 6000, the EGT slowly rises
> to 1200 degrees. Cylinder temperature is running at 350 degrees. As soon as
> you go to full throttle or reduce it below 5000 RPM it cools right down. Is
> this normal and are we using the correct jetting and needle settings for our
> altitude? I believe the needle is the stock needle that came in it, not sure
> of the numbers on it. Plugs have been inspected and appear normal, light
> brown in color.
>
> I hope I have given enough information to solve the problem.
>
I'm thinking there is no problem here. Your "55" must be a typo, and is
probably a 155 jet. This sounds a little small (lean), but the 4600' MSL
would make that about right. Normal (standard 0 MSL density altitude) jets
i believe are 165 for a 447 SC. Running with the needle in the #1 position
would also be leaner than 0 MSL, but again this makes sense with your thinner
air conditions. (Simply put, in thinner air your proportion of fuel
to air would be higher than at sea level, so you need to go to a smaller
jet size (leaner) to keep the correct proportion.) And finally, your
temps sound perfect and your plugs verify this. It is normal to get a
slight "hill" of higher temp in the cruise range, and 1200 is the max
so you are fine. This "hill" is at a cross-over point, drawing fuel
from both the mid-range needle jet and the main jet. Also, as per Rotax
op manual, it is more reliable to sit in sustained climb at full power
instead of at the hotter 5000 rpm.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | GPS-aircraft radio interference |
During in-flight testing of my knee-mounted Megellan Trailblazer XL GPS I
found that the display appeared to be blinking and would not show any info on
the destinations I selected. Both the GPS and my radio are powered by the
same Kumzelman power supply. A second problem is that I am getting a beeping
signal interference on my radio which dissappears when the GPS is turned off.
My suspicion is that the GPS has an internal oscillator which comes on each
time it rechecks the satellites and that the signal is being picked up by my
radio. My plan is to: 1/ recheck the coax routing from the GPS antenna and
from the radio to its antenna to make sure they are separated as far as
possible, 2/ make sure the GPS antenna has a good view of the sky and 3/
consider not using the power supply to power both units. I am open to
suggestions from anyone who may have some idea of whats cuasing these
problems. Thanks in advance. Duane Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | xxx <propwash(at)gte.net> |
7500 feet and splat.. what an asshole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: misc questions on a rainy day |
On Wed, 7 May 1997, Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
> Folding the wings:
> When the wings are folded on a MarkIII, do the ailerons end up folded inside,
> mine won't go completely flat so the wings have to lean outward to allow some
> clearance between the tail surfaces and the almost-folded ailerons. Is that
> the normal?
>
i've seen this problem on a Firestar, and unfortunately, it is a
construcion error (on a FS at least). I'd like to soften that last
statement, but I just re-read the Firestar plans book to double check,
and see that the plans are pretty loud and clear about taking care and
double checking during this part of the construction. Maybe the Mark
IIIs and other flap equipped Kolbs are different, but the Firestar KXP
calls for getting the aileron to fold under to within 3 inches of the
bottom of the wing, and getting 30-35 degrees of up travel as well.
The plane i saw was bad enf that he had to leave the ailerons unfolded
for trailering, which presented new problems in securing the ailerons
for highway loads. As long as there is sufficient travel for control
in flight, securing the ailerons for trailering might be the only lousy
consequence of this problem. Honestly, i really do hope that your
plane is okay in this regard. :-)
> Oil in 582, experiences...
> Anyone using AV-2 (50/50 blend of Petroleum and Synthetic)?
> How about Blizzard oil (Rotax original equip for injection-equipped
> snowmobiles and watercraft, pure petroleum)?
> Whatever Injection oil I decide to run in the Rotax, is it also OK to use
> that same injection oil as a premix oil in my chainsaw, weedwacker, Lawnboy,
> margarita blender (also 2-stroke powered), etc., or is it diluted or what?
>
I recall a CPS Care and Feeding article saying the biggest distinction
in 2 stroke oils is whether they are manufactured for air cooled or
liquid cooled engines. As long as your margarita blender is liquid cooled
(like the 582), using leftover premix in it should provide many funfilled
hours of reliable power. :-) So now I gotta ask, do you liquid cooled
2-strokers use oil made for liquid cooled engines, or is my info old
and incorrect? Duralube (my choice, but i'm air cooled) told me that
there is a difference in the amount of detergent added to 2 stroke oil
and that Duralube has more detergent than most others. I don't know
the merits of synthetic versus petroleum, except that EPA pollution
requirements are pushing all vendors toward at least partial synthetic.
In my choice, i tried to go middle of the road -- staying away from 100:1
Amsoil synthetic on one extreme and plain ol default Penzoil on the other.
Most important, however, was the recommendation from another ULer and
also believing that some hard-core dirt bikers (duralube users) ought to
have a good clue on this as well. AV-2 may be great too, but I feel
it might be over-priced cuz it says Aircraft on the label.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Rees <markrees(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RE: GPS-aircraft radio interference |
I would post a message to the newsgroup: rec.radio.amateur.equipment.
They will be much better able to answer the interference questions and
to offer a solution...
Mark Rees
Synapse Database Marketing, Inc.
20476 Chartwell Center Drive, Suite F
Cornelius, NC 28031
-----Original Message-----
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com [SMTP:MitchMnD(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 1997 4:59 PM
To: kolb(at)intrig.com
Subject: Kolb-List: GPS-aircraft radio interference
During in-flight testing of my knee-mounted Megellan Trailblazer XL GPS
I
found that the display appeared to be blinking and would not show any
info on
the destinations I selected. Both the GPS and my radio are powered by
the
same Kumzelman power supply. A second problem is that I am getting a
beeping
signal interference on my radio which dissappears when the GPS is turned
off.
My suspicion is that the GPS has an internal oscillator which comes on
each
time it rechecks the satellites and that the signal is being picked up
by my
radio. My plan is to: 1/ recheck the coax routing from the GPS antenna
and
from the radio to its antenna to make sure they are separated as far as
possible, 2/ make sure the GPS antenna has a good view of the sky and
3/
consider not using the power supply to power both units. I am open to
suggestions from anyone who may have some idea of whats cuasing these
problems. Thanks in advance. Duane Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rgbsr <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions on Kolb Fire Star KXP |
I'd be careful. Elongnating holes is not good for structural members.
It allows the entire section to move as the wing and the fuselage flex
in flight. The proper method would have been to check EVERYTHING to find
out why it was misaligned.
However, the news is not all bad. If this connection point is visible and
accessible you can check it on a regular basis. You cannot, however, tell
if there is shifting and wear normally without removing the bolt that goes
through the hole.
Personally I would remove, inspect, and replace the bolt every 10 flight
hours or so just to be on the safe side.
JMHO after twenty years in the Navy as a structural mechanic.
Ron B.
On Wed, 7 May 1997, segarcts wrote:
> Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 20:50:51 -0400
> From: segarcts <segarcts(at)qtm.net>
> To: "'kolb(at)intrig.com'"
> Subject: Questions on Kolb Fire Star KXP
>
> I bought a Kolb FireStar KXP that was wrecked in the top of a tree.I had to
> rebuild the right wing,When i went to install the wing I found out that the
> leading edge was off 1/2 inch to match the left wing.I figured that maybe
> the frame got bent. I figured that the hole in the forwared mount was off
> 1/4 of an inch.I longated the hole on the wing which now ever thing lines
> up.I thought of welding a washer to wing support .Any sugestings??????
> Also what do you glue the velcro to the wing with,for the gap seal.
>
>
>
> . Charlie Segar
> Bridgman Mi.
> segarcts(at)qtm.net
>
>
"You are but one medical away from an ultralight!" [ Mr. S. Larghi ]
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in beautiful Santa Clara, CA
< rblaylock(at)mail.arc.nasa.gov > Soon to be in San Jose, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | MKIII aileron folding |
Maybe the Mark
>IIIs and other flap equipped Kolbs are different, but the Firestar KXP
>calls for getting the aileron to fold under to within 3 inches of the
>bottom of the wing
Ben and all,
The MKIII is a "little" different. From memory (I could be wrong but I
don't think so) the plans state you have to get within 5" or 6" of the
bottom surface. That provides enough clearance to allow folding.
To expand a little, if you add stiff braces between the main wing tabs and
tabs mounted under the fuselage "H" tube bolt you can position and stabilize
the folded wings and take the "side to side wobble" out of them. Making
those braces longer or shorter allows more or less room between the folded
ailerons and folded emphenage. I positioned mine so that they just touched.
A short piece of pipe insulation slit and slipped over the edge of the
ailerons protects the Stits.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (2.3 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS-aircraft radio interference |
I have a Kolb Firestar KX and am considering getting a Garmin 38 GPS. This
does not have an external antenna and may have difficulty "seeing" the 3 or 4
satellites necessary to be effective. Has anyone tried one of these in a
Kolb, and is there a best place to mount one. I don't have any instruments
except a Cht/Egt and Air speed indicator and compass, which doesn't help me
since I have been getting lost in the sky since I first started this flying
stuff in '82. But it is still a great joy!!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS-aircraft radio interference |
>I have a Kolb Firestar KX and am considering getting a Garmin 38 GPS. This
>does not have an external antenna and may have difficulty "seeing" the 3 or 4
>satellites necessary to be effective. Has anyone tried one of these in a
>Kolb, and is there a best place to mount one. I don't have any instruments
>except a Cht/Egt and Air speed indicator and compass, which doesn't help me
>since I have been getting lost in the sky since I first started this flying
>stuff in '82. But it is still a great joy!!
>
> Don't have a Garmin, got a Magellin 2000, it is mounted on top of
the stick. Slit a piece of chromoly to make a 2" long half round, weld a
4"long piece of 1/2" to 5/8" wide steel strap to one edge of it. Angle the
strap up about 60 degrees away from you. Slide your rubber grip down, strap
the half round slit tubing to your stick with black electric tape, slide the
rubber back up over it.
Glue a rubber cushion on to the strap that points up and away from you, and
tape the GPS to it with more black electric tape. Trim the tape neatly with
a razor blade so that it looks "airplaney", and you're all set. The nice
thing about the Magellin 2000 in this position, you can poke the keypad
without taking you're hand off the stick. If you have a push to talk switch,
slide it up about 3/4"
and it will still fit.
I know this fits good in a MKIII, I don't know about a Firestar.
Hold it in position and make sure it won't hit on anything first. The
position works good for satellite reception.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> GeoR38
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bakerv4(at)cdsnet.net (James Baker) |
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. :-)
We made two adjustments, first we set the needle at the number 2 position
(which raised it in the main jet and enriched the mixture), this helped cool
things down alittle. So we set it one more notch lower and now all the temps
are just right!!
It is using a 155 main jet and the needle is a 15K2 set in the number 3
position.
It is burning 2 1/2 to 3 gallons per hour, does this sound about right?
Thanks again,
See ya,
jb
************************************
* Jim & Elaine Baker *
* 2934 Cortez Street *
* Klamath Falls, Oregon State *
* Postal zone 97601 *
* bakerv4(at)cdsnet.net *
* (541) 884-5900 *
************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS-aircraft radio interference |
>I have a Kolb Firestar KX and am considering getting a Garmin 38 GPS. This
>does not have an external antenna and may have difficulty "seeing" the 3 or 4
>satellites necessary to be effective. Has anyone tried one of these in a
>Kolb, and is there a best place to mount one. I don't have any instruments
>except a Cht/Egt and Air speed indicator and compass, which doesn't help me
>since I have been getting lost in the sky since I first started this flying
>stuff in '82. But it is still a great joy!!
>
>Hi
I used my Magellen 2000 this winter in my Firestar with the full enclosure
and it worked fine for speed and navigation.
I just put sticky velcro on the back of the GPS and sewed a piece of velcro
to the left leg of the bib pants.
I see that LEAF has a patch of velcro that you strap on your leg that would
eliminate the sewing and would be more solid. My arrangement could move
somewhat and was not totally satisfactory but I liked the location, easy to
see and reach.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> GeoR38
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________\_/____________
|
(*)
O O
Happy Landings
Charles :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | GPS/Radio Interfer follow-up |
Later testing on subect problem has definitely proved that my Magellan Trail
blazer XL GPS and aircraft radio can't be installed within 24" of each other
without radio interference. It appears that in my case where the Aircom 960
radio is installed at my lower left (dials and knobs are on the top of this
unit) I will have to install my GPS on my right side. I tested the
interference range by operating both units in a clear location away from any
obstructions and the results were obvious.
It was also obvious that my remote antenna for the GPS needs to see more sky.
I will next try to instal it in the wing gap closure. Further progress will
reported here.
Duane Mitchell (MitchMnD).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Trailer update 5-9 |
The Firefly trailer project is still alive. Heres what I have learned so
far. The idea of using an aluminum pontoon trailer as a basic platform will
work very well. The idea of using a factory built storage unit for the
enclosure fell through when the mfgr was frightened away by the old
liaibility problem. Some other builders have contacted me with home-built
ideas based on electrical conduit and riveted aluminum skins. Not bad if you
have the time. My current effort is being dedicated to DesignCAD drafting of
plans/specs that I will use to obtain bids from possible builders. I am
having some trouble finding companys interested in building anything less
than five tons capacity trailers. We still "don't have a single canon
factory in the whole South". One thing I have found is that a Mark 3 trailer
is a much much larger project.... I will post my reports on progress here.
Duane Mitchell (MitchMnD)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jlbaker(at)telepath.com (Jim Baker) |
| Subject: | Re: GPS-aircraft radio interference |
>Don't have a Garmin, got a Magellin 2000, it is mounted on top of
>the stick. Slit a piece of chromoly to make a 2" long half round, weld a
>4"long piece of 1/2" to 5/8" wide steel strap to one edge of it. Angle the
>strap up about 60 degrees away from you.
Just wanted to thank you for some of the neat ideas you've submitted. All
are eminently workable. Thanks.
My soulution for the Bendix King KLX 100 GPS/Comm radio was to use a cell
phone articulated mount (JC Whitney stuff) mounted on the alum floor pan
just to the left of the seat and behind the throttle. The sides of the unit
and the bottom are foam padded and the sides ratchet in to capture the unit
nicely. A push of the ratchet release button and the sides open to release
the unit. The height of the unit could be further extended with a machined
rod if necessary. It's just right for the FS2 as purchased.
Jim Baker
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Thu, 8 May 1997, James Baker wrote:
> It is burning 2 1/2 to 3 gallons per hour, does this sound about right?
yes, i get about 2.6-2.7 gph, mostly cruise 55-60 @4800.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
| Subject: | Engine Information System |
Hello
I just picked up part of my Mark III quick build kit last week and have
covered my first two pieces with fabric. I have a private pilot ticket and
owned and flew one of the orginal Weedhoppers 16 years ago. I'm looking
forward to flying an UL again, but this time with class. Therefore the Mark
III. I plan to install the Rotax 912 and was looking for some feedback on
the Engine Information System. I checked the archives and didn't find
anything. Do you love it or hate it?
Terry Swartz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
It was on Real T V tonight. I read the post about it several weeks ago &
it was on today . I don`t remember who it was ; looked like a VERY Nice M K
-2 ;Lost RT> wheel on takeoff . Beautiful piloting on uneventfull
landing!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gottafly, Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Information System |
Hi Terry,
I've been using the Engine Instrument System from Grand Rapids Technolgies
for 3 years now. I love it. The digital read out means I never have to
wonder if it's the gauge or not. (Vibration kills mecahnical gauges.) The
warning light will get your attention if something goes out of limits.
Cost is comparable. It seems expensive but if you have to buy all of your
gauges anyway it's about the same cost.
Kathy Lubitz
----------
: From: Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)prolog.net>
: To: kolb(at)intrig.com
: Subject: Engine Information System
: Date: May 9, 1997 05:00 PM
:
: Hello
:
: I just picked up part of my Mark III quick build kit last week and have
: covered my first two pieces with fabric. I have a private pilot ticket
and
: owned and flew one of the orginal Weedhoppers 16 years ago. I'm looking
: forward to flying an UL again, but this time with class. Therefore the
Mark
: III. I plan to install the Rotax 912 and was looking for some feedback
on
: the Engine Information System. I checked the archives and didn't find
: anything. Do you love it or hate it?
:
: Terry Swartz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: firestar 2 weights |
Based upon the weight why do I get this feeling your main wing spars
and the tail boom may have an appearance like spiral wrapped cardboard
shipping tubes.
Those cardboard tubes are heavy suckers. During the construction
process, I think if you would have looked at them a little closer, you
might have found they contained some long lengths of expensive
aluminum tubing. The cardboard tubes were to serve as shipping
containers. You were supposed remove the aluminum tubes from the
cardboard containers and discard the cardboard tubes.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: firestar 2 weights
Date: 5/7/97 9:25 PM
what all did you strap on to your firestar?? I have two tanks, a BRS, brakes,
carpet, dual harnesses, and all the stuff I could mount to the dash and Mine is
325 lbs
-----Original Message-----
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com [SMTP:Timandjan(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 1997 7:57 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: firestar 2 weights
I just did my weight and balance on my Firestar 2 and the plane weighs 400
pounds. I was wondering what other builders have for their weights.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
| Subject: | Re: misc questions on a rainy day |
You wrote:
>
>
>
> Oil in 582, experiences...
> Anyone using AV-2 (50/50 blend of Petroleum and Synthetic)?
> How about Blizzard oil (Rotax original equip for injection-equipped
> snowmobiles and watercraft, pure petroleum)?
> Whatever Injection oil I decide to run in the Rotax, is it also OK to
use
> that same injection oil as a premix oil in my chainsaw, weedwacker,
Lawnboy,
> margarita blender (also 2-stroke powered), etc., or is it diluted or
what?
>
> Thanks!
>
Hi Jim
I have a Mark III -582 using the oil injection and have used AV-2
exclusively for all of its 368hrs TT and only decarboned at 300 hrs
during overhaul.
The only parts replaced at that time were the upper piston rings as the
ring gap was close to maximum (.035") according to CPS recommendations.
As for using it in your Margarita blender please send picture with max
RPM and cruise speed conditions for proper recommendations of oil
blends
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
| Subject: | one wheel landing |
I also saw the kolb plane on the program Real TV, land on one wheel.
NICE JOB, even though the eleven year old boy in the passenger seat looked a
little nervous. It's amazing how long the kolb rolled down the runway on one
wheel before the tireless axle hit the pavement. What a great plane!
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Roe <kb7qqq(at)bigfoot.com> |
Unknown wrote:
>
> From: tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz)
> Subject: Engine Information System
> Sender: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com
>
> Hello
>
> I just picked up part of my Mark III quick build kit last week and have
> covered my first two pieces with fabric. I have a private pilot ticket and
> owned and flew one of the orginal Weedhoppers 16 years ago. I'm looking
> forward to flying an UL again, but this time with class. Therefore the Mark
> III. I plan to install the Rotax 912 and was looking for some feedback on
> the Engine Information System. I checked the archives and didn't find
> anything. Do you love it or hate it?
>
> Terry Swartz
Could you tell me what archives you are talking about in the above
message. I haven't flown ultralights in 10 years and am considering a
Kolb.
Thanks
--
******************
Sam Roe
Puyallup, Wa
KB7QQQ(at)bigfoot.com
******************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: one wheel landing |
> I also saw the kolb plane on the program Real TV, land on one wheel.
>NICE JOB, even though the eleven year old boy in the passenger seat looked a
>little nervous. It's amazing how long the kolb rolled down the runway on one
>wheel before the tireless axle hit the pavement. What a great plane!
>Cal
>
Did anyone happen to tape it? I'd like to take a look at that...
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb Mailing List |
Mike,
I think it would be a good idea to post a pointer to your www site on
the mailing list. There have been questions posted now and then about
where guys can get some Kolb dual time before they fly their own Kolbs.
Other than you, Dan (at the Kolb company), a fellow in Baton Rouge, La.
and another fellow in Washington (near Oklahoma City), Ok., I don't know
of any other instructors using Kolbs. There might be another guy that
does some instructing down near Miami, Fla. There may also possibly be
others, but I have not heard. I am sure glad you do and I enjoyed
looking at your web site. The next time I pass through your area I will
try to plan my trip so as to stop by and visit.
In fact, if I can figure out how to carbon copy this note to the list I
will do it now.
To all on the list the web site address is:
http://members.aol.com./msm000/index.html
(I don't know if the OOO's are zeros are capital o's. Try it one way
and if it doesn't work do it the other.)
Later,
Cliff Stripling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | segarcts <segarcts(at)qtm.net> |
Can anybody tell me what glue to glue my velcro to my wing for my gap seal?
Thanks.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Cliff and all,
Does anyone have contact info for the Kolb instructor in Baton Rouge, LA? This
is the first I've heard of him. That would be a lot closer than going to PA
for my checkout (and as an added bonus, I wouldn't have to visit the in-laws in
PA).
Construction of the SS is still stalled waiting for some time away from my job.
Hopefully, this is at least the last Sunday I'll have to work.
Thanks.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edgar C. Kolb" <edkolb(at)aeroinc.net> |
Looking for information on Henry Kolb's wife, Magdalena ???, born 6-9-1813,
died 2-16-1873. The information I have on Henry is; born 1-20-1811, died
2-19-1884.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
>Does anyone have contact info for the Kolb instructor in Baton Rouge, LA?
Russell and all,
It may be D. Stephen LeBlanc of Baton Rouge, La. BFI (504)769-9649. I
received this information 2nd hand quite a few months ago. His is supposed
to be instructing with a MKII. I hope the info is correct and current.
If anyone calls him and this is not correct please let the list know.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (2.3 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
I spoke with the tech service dept at Stits a while back about what adhesive
they recomend to glue things to fabric. They said they used a product called
Pliobond. I found it in the hardware store. It's a kind of smelly contact
cement. Be careful using it because it disolves the paint.
________________________________________________________________________________
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)bscn.com> |
To Cliff Stripling
FYI most mail servers will automatically highlite the url (website address)
if it is typed out completely with the proper prefixes etc, such as http,
etc. When this happens, all the recipient has to do is clik on the
highlited article and it will take you right to that site. I just tried
it, and it worked just like its sposed to! Then just store the site in
your favorites list for easy return.
Tom
My name is King; my house is a dome; and its MY road.
124 King Dome Rd.
kingdome(at)bscn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CVBreard(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: instructors - Baton Rouge, LA 5-11-97 |
It is indeed "D" Leblanc in Baton Rouge, LA. I flew with him 10 hrs before I
even taxied my Firestar.
"D" is a fine fellow and can be reached at home 504-769-9649 I have a work
phone 504-339-7150 I have a third number that I'm not sure of 292-0050.
Charlie Breard
CVBREARD2aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gb.eaa-cfi(at)juno.com |
Bill Genteman instructs in a kolb mark III with a 582 out of
Menominee Falls Wi. NW of Milwaukee out of Aero Park a predominantly
Ultralight field listed on the secional chart just north of Capitol Dr.
airport. #'s for Bill are;
Home # = 414 246 0685
Office # = 414 659 8594
George P. Bindl May blue skies, tailwinds, and lift always be with you
!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
> Can anybody tell me what glue to glue my velcro to my wing for my gap
seal? Thanks.
> Charlie
>
> Try using "GOOP". Walmart, K-Mart sell it, the sporting goods dept.
sells one kind, the automotive dept. sells another, both are pretty good, it
is like contact cement, but easier to work with. Have not tried it for
Velcro, but think it would work. Also perhaps the double stick tape the auto
paint stores sell to attach body side moulding? That stuff will peel the
paint. Try sticking some Velcro to your tool box or something for a week and
see how it works.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbellis(at)swbell.net (Jeff Ellis) |
Thomas L. King wrote:
>To Cliff Stripling
>
>FYI most mail servers will automatically highlite the url (website
address)
>if it is typed out completely with the proper prefixes etc, such as
http,
>etc. When this happens, all the recipient has to do is clik on the
>highlited article and it will take you right to that site. I just
tried
>it, and it worked just like its sposed to! Then just store the site in
>your favorites list for easy return.
>Tom
>
The automatic highlighting of a URL with the ability to double click it
to
open that URL has nothing to do with the mail server. That is a function
of
the individual mail reader software. Netscape and IE mail programs do
this
as well as the one I am using (Agent) and I think Eudora does also.
Jeff Ellis
jbellis(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | GPS-Radio Interference |
My Magellan Trailblazer XL GPS has been causing a beeping sound on my Aircom
960 radio. I found that it only occured when these devices were within
approx 16" of each other. The iterference was probably caused by an internal
oscillator in the GPS. I relocated the GPS to Approx 22" away the
interference dissapeared. I also relocated the remote antenna to give it a
better view of the sky. This arrangement was tested during a flight on
Sunday and it all worked great. It is my understanding that if money is not
important you can buy far more expensive radio/GPS equipment the does not
have this problem. Of course it also becomes obsolete at the same rate as
the gear we mortals can afford :-) .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Don't know if this will work with the Velcro but I used it to glue a
zipper to a rubberized duct. Its held for 7 years so far. One thing
is I also sewed it which probably has helped.
The stuff I used is made by Elemers Glue, and its a Fabric Glue.
Comes in a plastic tube, is kind of messy like there white glues
normally are, but seems to work good. Clamping it down to the
surface would probably help and be necessary.
Next which will stick it but god help you if you want to take it off.
3M Weather Strip Adhesive. Its really messy stuff. Resist all kinds
of stuff. They use it for gluing on weather strip and trim on cars.
It work great. Comes in different colors, black, yellow, red and
available at most autoparts stores. Because its 3M, good stuff, (just
smell it) and sold by autoparts expect to get hit for about $4-6. I
would think I tube would be more than enough.
No matter what you use you'll need to clean the surface well on both
pieces, get the oils off. I would use acetone. Careful, it will take
paint & dope off. If you intend to use Velcro which already has
adhesive on it, your probably wasting your time trying to glue it.
You'll be just placing glue on the surface of the adhesive and then it
will peel off. You need to use the Velcro which is for sewing on.
It's usually cheaper anyhow, available by the foot at most fabric or
sewing centers near you...
Good Luck.
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: RE:
Date: 5/11/97 10:27 AM
Can anybody tell me what glue to glue my velcro to my wing for my gap seal?
Thanks.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Drilling Wing Attach Holes |
Need another opinion:
I getting my FireFly kit back. It has been built to the point of
drilling the wing attachment bolt holes.
The previous builder had it jigged up, but it looked like there may
not be enough over lap of the tang on the right wing weldment and the
receiver on the fuselage. If a hole were drilled there may not be
adequate edge distances on either one or the other.
Anybody ever seen anything like this. I am pretty sure he had the
wing sweep correct. It's like the tang on the wing weldment is to
short on the one side. No wonder he sold it back to me.....?
Unfortunately I am not home now to look at it.
Anybody else run into this.
Dennis, can this be?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Buying Project-Need advise on Primer |
Need some opinions:
I have a chance to buy back my FireFly kit. The person who bought it
from me has had the fuselage and metal weldments Carter coated. Its a
local process where a local painter by the name of Carter sprays them
mounts. He decided he didn't want to mess with the covering and is
buying a Hawk intend, figured he could have it flying in less hours
than covering and finishing the Firefly. Who am I to criticize I
getting it back half built and he's done excellent work on it.
Now for the Question:
Originally when I purchased it I had intended to have it powered
coated but since he has gone a head and had it painted, how hard is it
to sand/bead blast it back off. If I take the fuselage to a powder
coater, they normally blast it anyhow during the prep, will it add
that much more to the cost since I sure it will take more time to get
the epoxy primer off. Maybe not if they use bigger guns.
Should I stay with the epoxy primer, its a little thin in a few spots,
but I guess that can be touched up.
Next, should some form of top coat be applied at least in the cock pit
area or should I go with it the way it is.
As for the weldments, most are now riveted into the wing or tail
assemblies so guess they will stay the way they are.
Thanks for you reply,
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
I'm pretty sure that the struts on the FireFly are supposed to be able
to go either in or out for folding. Mine will only fold in; if I try to
fold them toward the wing tips, they stop, and don't make it all the way.
Its not readily apparent what is making them stop either. I haven't had
a chance to study this in depth, but does anyone have any ideas? If I
could fold the struts outward, toward the wing, it would greatly help
when I'm folding the plane by myself. Does this sound like a construction
error, or... ?
Thanks in advance!
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Firefly Trailer Update |
The first cut of the Firefly trailer secification drawing is complete. I
have received inputs from several builders who have built or are building
trailers and I plan to wait and see if I can use any of their suggestions in
end of next week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Wing Attach Holes |
On Sun, 11 May 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> The previous builder had it jigged up, but it looked like there may
> not be enough over lap of the tang on the right wing weldment and the
> receiver on the fuselage. If a hole were drilled there may not be
> adequate edge distances on either one or the other.
>
> Anybody ever seen anything like this. I am pretty sure he had the
> wing sweep correct. It's like the tang on the wing weldment is to
On a Firestar, this could be caused by improper placement of the steel
fitting of the drag strut at the root rib. If it is too far out of the
wing, the front fittings you refer to would not overlap enf at correct
(0) sweepback. I don't remember exactly, but i don't believe it would
be difficult to replace the drag strut if you needed to. Obviously,
your check w/ Dennis is the best bet.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Buying Project-Need advise on Primer |
On Sun, 11 May 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> Now for the Question:
> Originally when I purchased it I had intended to have it powered
> coated but since he has gone a head and had it painted, how hard is it
> to sand/bead blast it back off. If I take the fuselage to a powder
> coater, they normally blast it anyhow during the prep, will it add
> that much more to the cost since I sure it will take more time to get
> the epoxy primer off. Maybe not if they use bigger guns.
i wouldn't go to any trouble to re-do if the original at least adheres
well to the metal. However, the steel frame might be worth it, cuz
if it wasn't prepped well for epoxy primer, it will never be as good
(corrosion proof) as if it were sandblasted and powder coated. The fuse'
tube won't ever corrode enf to worry about anyway.
>
> Should I stay with the epoxy primer, its a little thin in a few spots,
> but I guess that can be touched up.
>
> Next, should some form of top coat be applied at least in the cock pit
> area or should I go with it the way it is.
your preference, doesn't matter. Top coating is one more step, good only for
looks, and that assumes that it doesn't scratch off showing a different color
primer, and that stits polytak won't disolve it. I used a very tough latex
top coat on mine -- in fact i think it was called ToughCoat. I tested it
for scratch resistance etc before using it. Still no scratches in it! :-)
My standard advice: top coats *will not* stick to epoxy primed surfaces
unless epoxy is scuff sanded, or still tacky when the top coat is sprayed on.
>
> As for the weldments, most are now riveted into the wing or tail
> assemblies so guess they will stay the way they are.
those are epoxy primed, right?
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | POWERFIN propeller |
Hello all. I just got off the phone with Stuart Gort of Powerfin (pres. of
company). He was very helpful in helping me sort out problems with my old
wooden prop, so that I don't really need to buy another prop now, but he
was so helpful and spent so much time with me (via e-mail and *his* 800
number!) that I want to do him the favor of passing on some of the info
I've gotten from him. It sounds like he's got a really good prop and I'd
encourage everyone shopping for a prop to check it out. He's got a fairly
basic web page, an email address that he's been pretty responsive on, and a
brochure you can request.
He claims that his current props were designed from the get-go for
ultralight/2-stroke applications. They're carbon fiber, but unlike the
Warp prop, which is solid resin/fiber, his has a foam core. The fiber is
laid out so that the fiber count is higher at the root and tapers off as
you go out. This gives it a low inertial mass, which apparently is good
news for the life of your gearbox. It also gives it slightly more
flexibility than the Warp, tho I gather that's not really so important. I
can't remember where I read it now, but the prop came out pretty good in an
efficiency/smoothness comparison test, being beaten only by a prop that was
much more expensive. His was $320 for the one I'd need for the Ultrastar.
He made some interesting comments about the Warp Drive prop. Apparently
Warp and Ivo used to be partners and Ivo made the mold that Warp uses. He
said that the "almost constant speed" of the Warp is actually achieved by
the airfoil stalling out near the tip (at low airspeeds), rather than
flexing of the blade as they claim, the implication being that you're
achieving constant speed at low airspeed, but at a cost of dumping power
out at the stalled tip. Does anyone have the info on that prop comparison?
The climb performance ought to show how much difference it makes.
Finally, a disclaimer: I don't really know much about the Powerfin--haven't
seen one or flown one. I was just impressed with how helpful and friendly
Mr. Gort was, and he seemed pretty knowlegeable.
> Powerfin has a web page at www.supernal.net/~powerfin/
His e-dress: Stuart Gort
-p.s. Sure had fun flying flying last Sat. Our younger brother finally got
a checkout ride in a two-place Quicksilver so that Ben would let him fly
his plane (FireStar). Jim reported that it was "the funnest day of flying
he'd ever had", which says a lot for ultralights in general, and Kolbs in
particular. He had absolutely no problem with it, nailed all his landings
(except for the last, where he said he got too cocky), and I don't think he
even mentioned the taildragger aspect of it. (I think he had zero time in
'draggers.) We all compared notes, and decided we felt sorry for the cable
and dacron guys! --but I shouldn't lump them all together--sorry
Quicksilver! I'm beginning to feel sorry for the GA folks too!
pps. Interesting: the 50x37 prop that came with my plane (from Goldwing,
designed by Catto) had *no* discernable performance difference from the
Culver 50x30 that I'd been using before. Just shows how much other factors
besides diameter and pitch contribute to prop characteristics.
Mike Ransom | Davis, Calif., USA
|
---================================================---
/O\
-====o====-
/-----\
mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu || || Kolb UltraStar
Reference to earlier message:
>>From: Jim Gerken
>>GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM[SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM@acuityinc.com]
>>Sent: Thursday, February 20, 1997 2:08 PM
>>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>>Subject: POWERFIN propeller, ever heard of it?
>>
>> Is anyone using a POWERFIN propeller, especially with the Rotax 582?
>> Does anybody KNOW of anyone using the Powerfin? Have you even heard
>> of it? I am considering it as a low-inertia alternative to Warp.
>> It is claimed to have a flexibility between Warp and Ivo, lower
>> mass than either, and superior aerodynamics (true Clark "Y" shape
>> instead of knife-edge).
>> Can anyone provide first-hand knowledge? Isn't this Internet a great tool?
>>
>> Powerfin has a web page at www.supernal.net/~powerfin/
>>Thanks!
>>
>
>
.....................................................................
Mike Ransom internet: mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu (916) 754-6167
Programmer/Analyst, Dept of Agronomy & Range Science
University of California, Davis, U.S.A.
.....................................................................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
| Subject: | Foam Prop interiors |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi;
I built a foam cored prop many years ago and had the foam migrate toward
the tips. One of many not so successful experiments. There are a lot of
superior foams on the morket today but it might be a consideration, you are
developing a lot of centripital force when turning the prop at 2,000+ RPM.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CVBreard(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | " 7500' and Splat - What an a--hole" |
I recall about a week or two ago, someone posted an incident of power loss or
failure on takeoff, as I recall. Believe the plane was wrecked but (hope?)
the pilot survived.
Somewhat later, someone else posted a brief " 7500' and Splat - what an
a--hole" and that's been bothering me ever since. (I believe the runway was
7500' long.)
I've been flying for 40 years now, owned numerous GA aircraft (Cessna 140 -
Bonanzas) was a CFII and currently own and fly a fine little Firestar with a
377 Rotax.
Thank you, God, I've never had an accident in an aircraft.
In those 40 years, I've done a number of "stupid" things, happily none of
which damaged me or my aircraft. (Yes, there were those 'God, if you get me
out of this, I'll never..." times.) In retrospect, we like to think of them
as 'learning experiences', don't we?
Understand, I don't recall the specifics on this incident, but I sure hope
doing something stupid doesn't necessarily make you an a--hole, because if so
I am one many times over, and have lots of company. Even some of us who got
lots of dual instruction and lots of supervised solo before being turned
loose have lost power on takeoff and made poor choices in spite of our
expensive training.
The very system that gives us lots of freedom (relatively) in our building
and flying of ultralights produces the circumstances where a UL pilot with
little or no instruction
can get into a sitution that he might not be able to handle effectively. (And
I suspect many of us have found that what makes perfect sense on the ground
or in a training situation may desert us when the real thing happens to US -
does that make us a--holes??) Perhaps this is one of the prices "we" pay for
the relative freedom of flying ultralights.
You and I know lots of pilots, even some who have done stupid things and bent
airplanes....but very few of them are a--holes. Quite the contrary, I
believe..pilots are generally superior people!!!
Sorry, didn't mean to get on my soapbox and take up your time or bore you.
But that has been bothering me, and thanks for hearing me out.
CVBreard(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | High temp on EGT |
I'm finding that I'm getting 1200deg on takeoff with a 503. Question: what
do I do? Is it normal to get a temporary high egt on takeoff? I fnd if I
throttle back to about 4700rpm (I have a 2 blade IVO) the temp drops.I've
not got a lot of time on the engine, just barely broken in. It cruines
quite well at that rpm. (55-65mph). Have not taken much of any time, just
turning around the patch whie I'm getting the feel of the plane. Is this
something to worry about, or will it go away once I've built up enoough
speed?
Bruce Schimmel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: " 7500' and Splat - What an a--hole" |
>
>I recall about a week or two ago, someone posted an incident of power loss or
>failure on takeoff, as I recall. Believe the plane was wrecked but (hope?)
>the pilot survived.
>
>Somewhat later, someone else posted a brief " 7500' and Splat - what an
>a--hole" and that's been bothering me ever since. (I believe the runway was
>7500' long.)
>
>I've been flying for 40 years now, owned numerous GA aircraft (Cessna 140 -
>Bonanzas) was a CFII and currently own and fly a fine little Firestar with a
>377 Rotax.
>Thank you, God, I've never had an accident in an aircraft.
>
>In those 40 years, I've done a number of "stupid" things, happily none of
>which damaged me or my aircraft. (Yes, there were those 'God, if you get me
>out of this, I'll never..." times.) In retrospect, we like to think of them
>as 'learning experiences', don't we?
>
>Understand, I don't recall the specifics on this incident, but I sure hope
>doing something stupid doesn't necessarily make you an a--hole, because if so
>I am one many times over, and have lots of company. Even some of us who got
>lots of dual instruction and lots of supervised solo before being turned
>loose have lost power on takeoff and made poor choices in spite of our
>expensive training.
>
>The very system that gives us lots of freedom (relatively) in our building
>and flying of ultralights produces the circumstances where a UL pilot with
>little or no instruction
>can get into a sitution that he might not be able to handle effectively. (And
>I suspect many of us have found that what makes perfect sense on the ground
>or in a training situation may desert us when the real thing happens to US -
>does that make us a--holes??) Perhaps this is one of the prices "we" pay for
>the relative freedom of flying ultralights.
>
>You and I know lots of pilots, even some who have done stupid things and bent
>airplanes....but very few of them are a--holes. Quite the contrary, I
>believe..pilots are generally superior people!!!
>
>Sorry, didn't mean to get on my soapbox and take up your time or bore you.
>But that has been bothering me, and thanks for hearing me out.
>
>CVBreard(at)aol.com
>
> WELL SAID!!! (Reminds me of the time I spiraled down thru a
suckerhole from thirteen five and half way down started wondering what the
bases were...)
Rihard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Warp Drive props |
Mike Ransome said:
He made some interesting comments about the Warp Drive prop. Apparently
Warp and Ivo used to be partners and Ivo made the mold that Warp uses. He
said that the "almost constant speed" of the Warp is actually achieved by
the airfoil stalling out near the tip (at low airspeeds), rather than
flexing of the blade as they claim, the implication being that you're
achieving constant speed at low airspeed, but at a cost of dumping power
out at the stalled tip. Does anyone have the info on that prop comparison?
The climb performance ought to show how much difference it makes.
Am currently using an Ivo 3-blade 64" prop on a Rotax532 65HP. Am awaiting a
Warp 66" 2-blade, which will be compared. On the Anglin J-6 that I had 4
years ago, the 66" Warp Drive prop, if pitched too steep, would apparently
stall and unload the engine so that it would turn 6200 rpm static, but on
takeoff, as airspeed increased, it would unstall and the rpm would fall as
the engine begin to "pull the prop" and climbout would be at 5600-5800 rpm.
This was also a 532, which is known to be low on torque and not as forgiving
as a 582.
One of our chapter members has loaned me his hydraulic static load
meter, and when I get the Warp, I will post both static and flight results
to the BBS net.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Richard and all,
We have all been there... like the night I got lost and had to land at an
unknown airport in God knows where to get my bearings at the on field flight
service station. "Whip" my family back on the plane to finish the trip.
Or the day I dropped down through the last hole to find visibility almost
nil and to have to ask for a steer to the nearest airport. Then later the
same day flying through the worst rain storm I have ever seen flying with
only a bit of horizon reference out either side of the window down low over
thick forest. Look out for the fire towers!
And there have been other...from the accidental to the very stupid.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (2.3 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)bscn.com> |
Most all of us at one time or another has stubbed our toe, usually by doing
something stupid or irrational. I guess in the eyes of someone who has
never done such a silly thing, we are somewhat less than perfect.
CVBreard said that Pilots are generally superior people. I AGREE! I've
been married to a pilot for more than 20 years. I'm an A&P, not a pilot,
so I'm not blowin' my own horn by saying that.
Tom
My name is King; my house is a dome; and its MY road.
124 King Dome Rd.
kingdome(at)bscn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Yukish <may106(at)psu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam Prop interiors |
>elubitz(at)ionline.net
>http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
>
>Hi;
>
>I built a foam cored prop many years ago and had the foam migrate toward
>the tips. One of many not so successful experiments. There are a lot of
>superior foams on the morket today but it might be a consideration, you are
>developing a lot of centripital force when turning the prop at 2,000+ RPM.
>
>Ed Lubitz
I know it can be done, as the Navy's E-2C Hawkeye uses foam core props (so
they don't interfere with the radar). 2000+ rpm at 13' diameter prop arc.
Give Hamilton Standard a call, ask them what kind of foam they use.
***********************************
Mike Yukish
may106(at)psu.edu
http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106/yuke.html
(814) 863-7143
Applied Research Lab
PO Box 30
State College, PA 16804
________________________________________________________________________________
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)bscn.com> |
| Subject: | foam prop interior |
To Ed & Kathy Lubitz (and any one else interested)
If you are interested, I have three pages of info from Glencoe Aviation
Technology Series, Aircraft Powerplants, 7th edition that talk about
composite props. text and line drawings. Rather than clog up the board,
you can email me if you're interested, and I'll email them directly to you.
They comprise a little over half a meg total. They are in jpg format
which can be viewed with Microsoft Imager; Lviewpro; and Vidfun 1.5 and
probably many other image programs.
Tom
My name is King; my house is a dome; and its MY road.
124 King Dome Rd.
kingdome(at)bscn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: High temp on EGT |
writes:
<< I'm finding that I'm getting 1200deg on takeoff with a 503. Question: what
do I do? Is it normal to get a temporary high egt on takeoff? I fnd if I
throttle back to about 4700rpm (I have a 2 blade IVO) the temp drops.I've
not got a lot of time on the engine, just barely broken in. It cruines
quite well at that rpm. (55-65mph). Have not taken much of any time, just
turning around the patch whie I'm getting the feel of the plane. Is this
something to worry about, or will it go away once I've built up enoough
speed? >>
That reading is a little high for a 503 at what should be takeoff rpm.
However, 1200 degrees is not an uncommon peak reading that occurs somewhere
between 5500 & 5000 rpm.
What is your takeoff rpm? If it is only 5400 or there abouts, you may be
near normal. Takeoff rpm on a 503 should be 6200 - 6500 in most
applications.
EGT will drop off below 5000 rpm so that part sounds normal but let us know
if takeoff rpm is up over 6000. If not, your prop has too much pitch and
doesn't allow the 503 to achieve max power.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi;
If you are running a single EGT probe downstream of the Y then the limit
temperature is an unknown. Basicly if you are not about 1/2 way from the
piston to the base of the Y you are not getting an acurate indication of
the EGT temperature so the actual reading becomes a meaningless number.
Also a previous post on RPM is valid; you have to set the engine so it is
turning rated RPM (6200 +/- 100 RPM) at full throttle and tied to the barn
or car.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Props, GA->UL transition |
Props:
Does anybody know the weight of a standard fixed pitch 66" prop for
a Firestar? I'm going to be pulling my engine off in the near future,
so will also be pulling the Warp prop. I've always assumed it was
lighter than wood, but would be interested to know for sure.
GA to UL:
Mike mentioned that our brother Jim got up in my Firestar last weekend
and i thought i'd add a little about Jim's transition from GA to this
UL flight. Jim has about 250 GA hours, mostly in a Grumman Traveler
he sold (sigh) 9 years ago. He had no time in ULs so i got him up
in a BFI's dual Quicksilver GT500 earlier on the same day. Jim got in
45 min in the GT500 including 4-5 landings. Also very useful was that
I also went up once around the pattern in the GT500, which reminded me
how awkward any plane can feel compared to what you drive all the time.
I stunk! The reminder from this is how much we need to simplify and
condense the info-clutter we throw at people about to get into a single
seat plane for the first time. The GT's controls felt extremely stiff,
and i spent most of the climbout still wondering if i was pushing
on the rudder pedals or the frame. Later in the day in my Firestar,
Jim did 5 min of taxiing, then 2-3 "high speed" runs down the runway.
He was nervous about controlling a tail dragger but on the first high
speed run was easily able to lift one side and then the other while
keeping it straight. After that he basically took off and had a blast
zooming around. He said it was the funnest thing he's ever done (but
downgraded that to 'second funnest' when relating it to his wife :-) )
One of the things that helped Jim the most was my instruction for him
to carry 3-3.5k rpm from short final to touch down. This practically
eliminates the 2 second flare characteristic of ULs, and which makes
ULs so dangerous for GA types to get into.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High temp on EGT |
My full power static is about 6700rpm. I'm getting mixed advice. Dennis
says the pitch should be increased, I'm also hearing that it should be
decreased. I can't say, yet, what my takeoff rpm is, since I've only had
three takeoffs, and was much more interested in keep the wings level, the
pitch reasonable and keep the thing nice and straight.
On Wed, 14 May 1997 PKrotje(at)aol.com wrote:
> writes:
>
> << I'm finding that I'm getting 1200deg on takeoff with a 503. Question: what
> do I do? Is it normal to get a temporary high egt on takeoff? I fnd if I
> throttle back to about 4700rpm (I have a 2 blade IVO) the temp drops.I've
> not got a lot of time on the engine, just barely broken in. It cruines
> quite well at that rpm. (55-65mph). Have not taken much of any time, just
> turning around the patch whie I'm getting the feel of the plane. Is this
> something to worry about, or will it go away once I've built up enoough
> speed? >>
>
> That reading is a little high for a 503 at what should be takeoff rpm.
> However, 1200 degrees is not an uncommon peak reading that occurs somewhere
> between 5500 & 5000 rpm.
>
> What is your takeoff rpm? If it is only 5400 or there abouts, you may be
> near normal. Takeoff rpm on a 503 should be 6200 - 6500 in most
> applications.
>
> EGT will drop off below 5000 rpm so that part sounds normal but let us know
> if takeoff rpm is up over 6000. If not, your prop has too much pitch and
> doesn't allow the 503 to achieve max power.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Kiger" <edkiger(at)netnitco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: " 7500' and Splat - What an a--hole" |
----------
> From: CVBreard(at)aol.com
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: " 7500' and Splat - What an a--hole"
> Date: Tuesday, May 13, 1997 7:40 PM
>
>
> I recall about a week or two ago, someone posted an incident of power
loss or
> failure on takeoff, as I recall. Believe the plane was wrecked but
(hope?)
> the pilot survived.
>
> Somewhat later, someone else posted a brief " 7500' and Splat - what an
> a--hole" and that's been bothering me ever since. (I believe the runway
was
> 7500' long.)
>
> I've been flying for 40 years now, owned numerous GA aircraft (Cessna 140
> Bonanzas) was a CFII and currently own and fly a fine little Firestar
with a
> 377 Rotax.
> Thank you, God, I've never had an accident in an aircraft.
>
> In those 40 years, I've done a number of "stupid" things, happily none of
> which damaged me or my aircraft. (Yes, there were those 'God, if you get
me
> out of this, I'll never..." times.) In retrospect, we like to think of
them
> as 'learning experiences', don't we?
>
> Understand, I don't recall the specifics on this incident, but I sure
hope
> doing something stupid doesn't necessarily make you an a--hole, because
if so
> I am one many times over, and have lots of company. Even some of us who
got
> lots of dual instruction and lots of supervised solo before being turned
> loose have lost power on takeoff and made poor choices in spite of our
> expensive training.
>
> The very system that gives us lots of freedom (relatively) in our
building
> and flying of ultralights produces the circumstances where a UL pilot
with
> little or no instruction
> can get into a sitution that he might not be able to handle effectively.
(And
> I suspect many of us have found that what makes perfect sense on the
ground
> or in a training situation may desert us when the real thing happens to
US -
> does that make us a--holes??) Perhaps this is one of the prices "we" pay
for
> the relative freedom of flying ultralights.
>
> You and I know lots of pilots, even some who have done stupid things and
bent
> airplanes....but very few of them are a--holes. Quite the contrary, I
> believe..pilots are generally superior people!!!
>
> Sorry, didn't mean to get on my soapbox and take up your time or bore
you.
> But that has been bothering me, and thanks for hearing me out.
>
> CVBreard(at)aol.com
Well said
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
| Subject: | Hobbs meter is fixed |
To all who responded to my hr. meter woes a few weeks ago,,, I have it
working now & my fellow Kolb drivers to thank. Thank you all ;
especially Rick L. ,,, Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neill Clayton-Smith <ncs(at)orca.overthe.net> |
| Subject: | RE: " 7500' and Splat - What an a--hole" |
As I recall the original incident was reported by propwash(at)gte.net and
was about his father who had made a judgement error on an engine out
over their 7500' field and ended up stalling in. His father wasn't
hurt.
jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com responded:
----
Morale: FLY THE AIRPLANE
7500 foot of runway to use......and splot
----
And while 'Fly the airplane' is what I hope we will all remember from
this the rest of the comment is in very poor taste.
This is when propwash responded 'What an ah...'. And I second that !!!
Personally I would like to that propwash for sharing this experience
with us and I just hope that I do always remember to 'FLY THE AIRPLANE'.
As the recents posts show it is very easy to make mistakes.
L8R
Neill.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi;
If you are turning 6700 RPM static then I would think you need to increase
the pitch just a little bit. That is make it bite just a bit more.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | xxx <propwash(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: " 7500' and Splat - What an a--hole" |
Neill Clayton-Smith wrote:
>
> As I recall the original incident was reported by propwash(at)gte.net and was about
his father who had made a judgement error on an engine out over their 7500'
field and ended up stalling in. His father wasn't hurt.
>
> jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com responded:
> ----
> Morale: FLY THE AIRPLANE
>
> 7500 foot of runway to use......and splot
> ----
> And while 'Fly the airplane' is what I hope we will all remember from this the
rest of the comment is in very poor taste.
>
> This is when propwash responded 'What an ah...'. And I second that !!!
>
> Personally I would like to that propwash for sharing this experience with us
and I just hope that I do always remember to 'FLY THE AIRPLANE'.
>
> As the recents posts show it is very easy to make mistakes.
>
> L8R
> Neill.
The first post reported a crash,from a 7500 foot runway.
Then someone posted "7500 feet and splat" that was the whole content of
message.
I found it very dishearting and became irritated,for that I am sorry
and offer apoligies to the group,but not the one that posted that for
my remarks. they were counter productive. I know who it was.
The pilot, my Father was not hurt,Plane is fixed and flying again.
Problem was fuel pump failure after only 30 hr of service,not to mention
pilot error.
Myself I'm finishing up a Fisher 606.
I am Propwash
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
| Subject: | AVGAS vs Premium auto |
Hi folks I have`nt seen this debated yet, so far ;this is hypothetical ,,[
to me anyway,, ] .I`m new to rotax operating [only 8 hrs. so far ] & I
head out to a fly in bfs. in anytown N Y . I get full of pancakes & eggs
& decide to head back, When I realize that Flight service missed their wind
direction & speed forecast . This is going to cut my fuel supply too close
& the best airport choices only have AV-Gas . Premium auto is not an
option. What are the down sides to occasionally going back home with some
high dollar AVGAS in my tank ?????? Thanks in advance for your
input,,,,,, Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | High Temp on EGT |
<< My full power static is about 6700rpm. I'm getting mixed advice. Dennis
says the pitch should be increased, I'm also hearing that it should be
decreased. I can't say, yet, what my takeoff rpm is, since I've only had
three takeoffs, and was much more interested in keep the wings level, the
pitch reasonable and keep the thing nice and straight.
Many complicated issues are raised on this forum for which there are many
relevant points of view - this is not one of them. Increase the pitch! The
less the engine is loaded (less pitch) the higher the EGT. Increasing
loading (more pitch) will drop the EGTs.
The 3 fundamental laws of the universe:
1) green side up*
2) flat side back**
3) less pitch = more heat**
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
*refers to installing sod runways
**refers to installing propellers
**refers to adjusting propellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
| Subject: | propeller weight |
Ben,
I bought a used 66" shetler wood propeller to build a clock out of, and it
weighs 4 lbs.
cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AVGAS vs Premium auto |
>Hi folks I have`nt seen this debated yet, so far ;this is hypothetical ,,[
>to me anyway,, ] .I`m new to rotax operating [only 8 hrs. so far ] & I
>head out to a fly in bfs. in anytown N Y . I get full of pancakes & eggs
>& decide to head back, When I realize that Flight service missed their wind
>direction & speed forecast . This is going to cut my fuel supply too close
>& the best airport choices only have AV-Gas . Premium auto is not an
>option. What are the down sides to occasionally going back home with some
>high dollar AVGAS in my tank ?????? Thanks in advance for your
>input,,,,,, Jim
>
> Several years ago flew an Anglin J-6 with a Rotax 532 to Oshkosh and
back and used 100LL for almost the whole trip. The plugs looked different,
hard to figure a reading, but ran ok, EGT's normal, I forget how many hours
total up and back, but at least 16 on straight 100LL.
Our EAA chapter president has a 503, single plug model on his
Drifter, and his experiences are quite different. 100LL makes his engine
reluctant to pull the prop load, and he must resort to removing the air
cleaner on cross country flights so that he can get home. On 100LL the
engine acts as if it is too rich. Gets worse as proportion of avgas increases.
Had a Rotax 277 on a Hummer with about 560 Hours TT and it never
minded 100LL at all, no apparent difference. No data yet with the current
532 in the MKIII, have not had occasion to need avgas yet.
Conclusions? Experiment carefully over large fields with low
groundhog populations. (if you ever land in a 'hogged field, hit one of
their dirt piles and then drop your wheel in the hole, you will amuse
everyone but yourself. Guess how I learned this...)
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Redundency in fuel supply system |
I finished putting together the fuel supply lines in the Mark iii. After
I have had some time to think about it, I came up with an idea. What do you
guys think about this:
Per plan, I have "T"d the tanks together and routed the line thru a filter,
then on thru the primer bulb and up to the pump. I am going to change this
slightly by adding a second filter and moving the "T" to after the filters.
My reasoning is, if I get some contamination, it may block flow thru one dip
tube (no screens on the dip tubes) or maybe even clog one filter completely,
but the other would flow, and I would notice the uneven consumption. I am
a little optimistic that the contaminants are in one tank only, or at least
worse in one tank to show the uneven flow problem before fuel starvation.
As I write this, I am contemplating extending this idea a little farther.
What about using two primer bulbs also, then "T" together after the bulbs?
So the lines would come from the dip tubes, thru independent filters, thru
independent primer bulbs, "T" together, then one line on up to fuel pump.
I remember reading that the primer bulb's check-valve can fail, and block
fuel flow (has anyone ever heard of this actually happening?).
There would be a second path for fuel flow if that happened.
Maybe a simple check-valve is all that is really needed in place of the
second primer bulb. But there maybe isn't such an animal made in my price
range. Yes, I saw the part in the plans that show the extra loop going
around the primer bulb, but Dennis sez this is no longer used, because
simpler is usually better. I agree with that, and maybe some of my ideas
here are going too far. Your input is welcome.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | xxx <propwash(at)gte.net> |
Splat is over,let it die.
All sorted out,missunderstanding.
________________________________________________________________________________
In the next 1 to 2 weeks we will be making the first wing of a MK-III
torsionally rigid.
A discussion arose why there is no washout indicated in the plans.
Most A/C wings are built with approx. 2-3 degrees washout, to keep the
ailerons active during a stall, and to make the stall progressive from the
wing root out.
Since this is a EAA chapter project, with many minds, I was coerced to raise
this question in this forum, to see what the responses might be.
Personally, I think to build according to plans, since the MK-III is not a
high performance A/C trying to give you second(s) of warning of an impending
stall.
What say you?
Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Washout |
>
>In the next 1 to 2 weeks we will be making the first wing of a MK-III
>torsionally rigid.
>
>A discussion arose why there is no washout indicated in the plans.
>
>Most A/C wings are built with approx. 2-3 degrees washout, to keep the
>ailerons active during a stall, and to make the stall progressive from the
>wing root out.
>
>Since this is a EAA chapter project, with many minds, I was coerced to raise
>this question in this forum, to see what the responses might be.
>
>Personally, I think to build according to plans, since the MK-III is not a
>high performance A/C trying to give you second(s) of warning of an impending
>stall.
>
>What say you?
>
>Herb
>
> Thats true washout will typicaly keep your ailerons doing what they were
ment to do in a stall, (maintain roll control). But you pay a price as
always in aircraft design, your drag will increase with washout. The MK3 is
well proven with a flat wing (no washout) all the Kolbs i have flown have a
very mild stall and i have always had excellent roll control through the
stall. Why fix something if it ain't
broke. Just my two cents worth.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AVGAS vs Premium auto |
writes:
<< Hi folks I have`nt seen this debated yet, so far ;this is hypothetical ,,[
to me anyway,, ] .I`m new to rotax operating [only 8 hrs. so far ] & I
head out to a fly in bfs. in anytown N Y . I get full of pancakes & eggs
& decide to head back, When I realize that Flight service missed their wind
direction & speed forecast . This is going to cut my fuel supply too close
& the best airport choices only have AV-Gas . Premium auto is not an
option. What are the down sides to occasionally going back home with some
high dollar AVGAS in my tank ?????? Thanks in advance for your
input,,,,,, Jim >>
I've used 100LL in my 582 a few times when no mo-gas available. No problems!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
| Subject: | RE: AVGAS vs Premium auto |
It's the same as putting high test gas in your lawnmower. It will run just
fine and
will not hurt anything. It just makes the checkbook lighter.
Mark
----------
From: The Kmets
Subject: Kolb-List: AVGAS vs Premium auto
Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 19:22PM
Hi folks I have`nt seen this debated yet, so far ;this is hypothetical ,,[
to me anyway,, ] .I`m new to rotax operating [only 8 hrs. so far ] & I
head out to a fly in bfs. in anytown N Y . I get full of pancakes & eggs
& decide to head back, When I realize that Flight service missed their wind
direction & speed forecast . This is going to cut my fuel supply too close
& the best airport choices only have AV-Gas . Premium auto is not an
option. What are the down sides to occasionally going back home with some
high dollar AVGAS in my tank ?????? Thanks in advance for your
input,,,,,, Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HB!HB1!MHansen(at)hbi.attmail.com (Hansen, Mark) |
| Subject: | RE: High Temp on EGT |
kolb(at)intrig.com (internet!intrig.com!kolb)
LISTEN TO DENNIS, THAT'S HIS JOB. HE KNOWS IT WELL.
if I could write this bigger I would.
Mark
----------
From: internet!aol.com!DLSOUDER
Subject: Kolb-List: High Temp on EGT
Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 21:14PM
<< My full power static is about 6700rpm. I'm getting mixed advice. Dennis
says the pitch should be increased, I'm also hearing that it should be
decreased. I can't say, yet, what my takeoff rpm is, since I've only had
three takeoffs, and was much more interested in keep the wings level, the
pitch reasonable and keep the thing nice and straight.
Many complicated issues are raised on this forum for which there are many
relevant points of view - this is not one of them. Increase the pitch!
The
less the engine is loaded (less pitch) the higher the EGT. Increasing
loading (more pitch) will drop the EGTs.
The 3 fundamental laws of the universe:
1) green side up*
2) flat side back**
3) less pitch = more heat**
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
*refers to installing sod runways
**refers to installing propellers
**refers to adjusting propellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Washout |
On Thu, 15 May 1997 HGRAFF(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In the next 1 to 2 weeks we will be making the first wing of a MK-III
> torsionally rigid.
>
> A discussion arose why there is no washout indicated in the plans.
>
> Most A/C wings are built with approx. 2-3 degrees washout, to keep the
> ailerons active during a stall, and to make the stall progressive from the
> wing root out.
I saw John Yates post and would have to agree w/ the idea: if it
ain't broke don't fix it. Our Kolbs have a pretty low aspect ratio
(big chord), as well as a long moment arm on the rudder -- lots of
yaw control -- both making things pretty polite in a stall. Also, i
think the "typical AC" washout might be more important in planes with
a more laminar flow airfoil. In such wings, the break from laminar
to turbulent air flow at stall causes a bigger and more sudden loss of
lift than a wing that is not very laminar such as a Kolb (or an RV?).
Lastly our vertical CG (aka you, me, the pilot) and high wing, even with
minimal dihedral, makes for a low vertical CG, which doesn't hurt either.
Either I'm right or terribly full of it; this is my guess for what it's
worth (and you know what that means :-)).
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | RE: High Temp on EGT |
Ok, I'm hearing loud and clear that increasing the prop pitch will
decrease the EGT. It's my brain that doesn't get it. Here's my "thinking":
when you increase the pitch, the same rpm will make the engiine work
harder than an engine with less pitch. That being the case, doesn't a
harder working engine -- making the same RPM -- create more heat?
So, why do I hear from you that the egt will decrease in a less
pitched blade?
thanks, Bruce Schimmel
On Thu, 15 May 1997, Hansen, Mark wrote:
>
> LISTEN TO DENNIS, THAT'S HIS JOB. HE KNOWS IT WELL.
> if I could write this bigger I would.
>
> Mark
> ----------
> From: internet!aol.com!DLSOUDER
> To: internet!intrig.com!kolb; mhansen
> Subject: High Temp on EGT
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 21:14PM
>
>
>
> << My full power static is about 6700rpm. I'm getting mixed advice. Dennis
> says the pitch should be increased, I'm also hearing that it should be
> decreased. I can't say, yet, what my takeoff rpm is, since I've only had
> three takeoffs, and was much more interested in keep the wings level, the
> pitch reasonable and keep the thing nice and straight.
>
> Many complicated issues are raised on this forum for which there are many
> relevant points of view - this is not one of them. Increase the pitch!
> The
> less the engine is loaded (less pitch) the higher the EGT. Increasing
> loading (more pitch) will drop the EGTs.
>
> The 3 fundamental laws of the universe:
> 1) green side up*
> 2) flat side back**
> 3) less pitch = more heat**
>
> Dennis Souder
> Pres Kolb Aircraft
>
> *refers to installing sod runways
> **refers to installing propellers
> **refers to adjusting propellers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi;
With a rectangular wing platform the stall is normally from the root
outward, thus leaving the ailerons as functional as can be expected at low
airspeed. Warping the wing to stop tip stall normally only becomes
necessary with tapered wings and it is done in an effort to keep the tip
from stalling and initiating a spin. Not to keep the ailerons functioning.
The rudder is most useful in keeping the wings level in a stall situation.
Have a look at Pazmany's book "Light Airplane Design" he has some very
good pictures of stalls with a tuffed wing.
Conclusion leave the wing flat as per the drawings.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Harrison" <Kenneth_Harrison(at)msn.com> |
We used to fly a Quicksilver II with a single carb single ignition Rotax 503
in Brasil. We ran avgas exclusively and never had any trouble.
Ken Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Redundency in fuel supply system -Reply |
I chose a different fuel system for my MKIII. I T ed
together the fuel lines from the bottom of both tanks
then connected this line to a rather standard aircraft
gas collator or what ever it is called with a built in
quick drain. This unit is mounted at the low point in the
system so that I can drain contaminates and water.
I then connected the fuel line to a electric pump that I
will use for priming and backup in case main pump
failure or vapor lock. I then connected the line to a
shut off valve then up to the engine. At the engine I
installed some Ts and a check valve so that fuel can
be pumped directly thru the check valve to the
carburetors from the electric pump. When the electric
pump is off and the engine pump is running the fuel is
pulled up to the engine pump and to the carburetors,
the check valve closes to keep fuel flowing to the
carbs.
Test runs confirm that the engine pump can supply
fuel being pulled thru the electric pump. I have also
had no problem with both pumps running and over
powering the carb float valves.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: High Temp on EGT |
Yes the engine does work harder, the hot gasses are in the engine longer
and transferring the heat to the cylinder walls and piston. So when you
slow the engine down other temps go up but EGT will come down.
>----------
>From: Bruce Schimmel[SMTP:bruce(at)schimmel.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Friday, May 16, 1997 3:43 AM
>To: Hansen, Mark
>Cc: internet!aol.com!DLSOUDER; internet!intrig.com!kolb
>Subject: RE: High Temp on EGT
>
>Ok, I'm hearing loud and clear that increasing the prop pitch will
>decrease the EGT. It's my brain that doesn't get it. Here's my "thinking":
>when you increase the pitch, the same rpm will make the engiine work
>harder than an engine with less pitch. That being the case, doesn't a
>harder working engine -- making the same RPM -- create more heat?
> So, why do I hear from you that the egt will decrease in a less
>pitched blade?
> thanks, Bruce Schimmel
>
>
>
>On Thu, 15 May 1997, Hansen, Mark wrote:
>
>>
>> LISTEN TO DENNIS, THAT'S HIS JOB. HE KNOWS IT WELL.
>> if I could write this bigger I would.
>>
>> Mark
>> ----------
>> From: internet!aol.com!DLSOUDER
>> To: internet!intrig.com!kolb; mhansen
>> Subject: High Temp on EGT
>> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 21:14PM
>>
>>
>>
>> << My full power static is about 6700rpm. I'm getting mixed advice. Dennis
>> says the pitch should be increased, I'm also hearing that it should be
>> decreased. I can't say, yet, what my takeoff rpm is, since I've only had
>> three takeoffs, and was much more interested in keep the wings level, the
>> pitch reasonable and keep the thing nice and straight.
>>
>> Many complicated issues are raised on this forum for which there are many
>> relevant points of view - this is not one of them. Increase the pitch!
>> The
>> less the engine is loaded (less pitch) the higher the EGT. Increasing
>> loading (more pitch) will drop the EGTs.
>>
>> The 3 fundamental laws of the universe:
>> 1) green side up*
>> 2) flat side back**
>> 3) less pitch = more heat**
>>
>> Dennis Souder
>> Pres Kolb Aircraft
>>
>> *refers to installing sod runways
>> **refers to installing propellers
>> **refers to adjusting propellers
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Painting the frame |
When I purchased my MKIII powder coating was not available from the
factory and right now I do not have the cash to have it powder coated so
if I am to continue I must do it my self. It will probably take me 10
hours of work to scotchbright and then epoxy coat the frame. If you
dont have the frame yet and have the money GET IT POWDER COATED. My
dilemma is that the epoxy primer is a green color which is not a color I
want to show inside the aircraft. I do not have the Stits paint yet
which I understand should be put on when the epoxy is still tacky and
even then will soften when the polytack is applied to cover the frame.
How did any of you other frame painters deal with this situation?
Does anyone know of a white spray paint that is not dissolved by the
solvent MEK (methyl ethyl keytone)? The folks at R&R said if it is not
dissolved by MEK the polytack will not affect it. I do not own a spray
gun and was hoping not to borrow one just to paint the frame ( I use
foam pads to apply the epoxy primer).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the frame |
Hi Jason
I just ordered stits epoxy chromate primer from aircraft spruce and it now
comes in white, would that be closer to the color you want?
Charles Henry.
>When I purchased my MKIII powder coating was not available from the
>factory and right now I do not have the cash to have it powder coated so
>if I am to continue I must do it my self. It will probably take me 10
>hours of work to scotchbright and then epoxy coat the frame. If you
>dont have the frame yet and have the money GET IT POWDER COATED. My
>dilemma is that the epoxy primer is a green color which is not a color I
>want to show inside the aircraft. I do not have the Stits paint yet
>which I understand should be put on when the epoxy is still tacky and
>even then will soften when the polytack is applied to cover the frame.
>How did any of you other frame painters deal with this situation?
>Does anyone know of a white spray paint that is not dissolved by the
>solvent MEK (methyl ethyl keytone)? The folks at R&R said if it is not
>dissolved by MEK the polytack will not affect it. I do not own a spray
>gun and was hoping not to borrow one just to paint the frame ( I use
>foam pads to apply the epoxy primer).
>
>
____________\_/____________
|
(*)
O O
Happy Landings
Charles :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas.tw.lloyd(at)ae.ge.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Wing Washout |
All things being equal (they never are) a straight uniform wing with no
interuptions would stall evenly, at once along the mid chord. However,
things arn't equal. The air is accelerated in the center of the span by
the prop and the aerodynamically dirty engine interfers with the air flow
over the wing in the center as well. This causes the kolb wing to stall in
the center of the span without washout.
That's my two cents.
Tom
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Wing Washout
Date: 5/16/97 12:23 AM
On Thu, 15 May 1997 HGRAFF(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In the next 1 to 2 weeks we will be making the first wing of a MK-III
> torsionally rigid.
>
> A discussion arose why there is no washout indicated in the plans.
>
> Most A/C wings are built with approx. 2-3 degrees washout, to keep the
> ailerons active during a stall, and to make the stall progressive from the
> wing root out.
I saw John Yates post and would have to agree w/ the idea: if it
ain't broke don't fix it. Our Kolbs have a pretty low aspect ratio
(big chord), as well as a long moment arm on the rudder -- lots of
yaw control -- both making things pretty polite in a stall. Also, i
think the "typical AC" washout might be more important in planes with
a more laminar flow airfoil. In such wings, the break from laminar
to turbulent air flow at stall causes a bigger and more sudden loss of
lift than a wing that is not very laminar such as a Kolb (or an RV?).
Lastly our vertical CG (aka you, me, the pilot) and high wing, even with
minimal dihedral, makes for a low vertical CG, which doesn't hurt either.
Either I'm right or terribly full of it; this is my guess for what it's
worth (and you know what that means :-)).
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.R.WOOD" <wood(at)mail.wincom.net> |
| Subject: | foam filled prop |
WARP DRIVE ORIGINALLY HAD A FOAM FILLED CORE. THIS ALLOWED THE PROP TO
TWIST FLATTER ON TAKE OFF AND THIS WAS PART OF THEIR ADVERTISING. THIS
TWISTING ALSO CAUSED CRACKING OF THE BLADE. THEY DISCONTINUED THE FOAM BLADE.
HIGH EGT. DENNIS IS RIGHT. IF THE ENGINE IS NOT WORKING HARD THE GAS IS
NOT COMPLETELY BURNT IN THE CYLINDER AND CONTINUES TO BURN IN THE EXHAUST
THUS CAUSING A HIGH EGT READING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony Hinkelmann" <hink(at)mindspring.com> |
Modifying my FS-2 for flaperons, Need to know how far the aileron bell
crank moves to give ample aileron control with flaperons down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Washout, Stalls/Spins |
On Thu, 15 May 1997 HGRAFF(at)aol.com wrote:
> Most A/C wings are built with approx. 2-3 degrees washout, to keep the
> ailerons active during a stall, and to make the stall progressive from the
> wing root out.
I know i already put in my $.02 worth, so i'm really pouring it on
here, sorry. But, it sort of dawned on me after sending my msg that this
thread has something to do with spin avoidance in a stall, and sort of
implies that the ailerons are the control input needed. This is not good
practice (CFIs check me here?), as aileron input generally reduces lift
and increases drag on the up aileron side, which can easily trigger
a spin. This may be more the case with airplanes other than a Kolb
(adverse yaw ain't hardly there), but it was what i was taught, and a
habit i've kept.
If you can stick with the mental habit of using RUDDER and elevator
during stalls, those are the same 2 inputs you need for spin recovery.
Conversely, a habit or thought of using ailerons could translate to longer
recovery time in a spin, or worse. BTW, obviously if you really *wag*
the rudder this doesn't mean the plane will not spin; quite the contrary!
All i'm saying is to use the rudder (gingerly?), not the ailerons, to
keep a stall straight and level.
ok, that's my $.04 :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Griffinwm(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Storing a Rotax 503 |
Has anyone had any experience (opinion) about the effect on a long term
storage of the 503. I have the chance to buy a 14 year old engine that is
still in the factory crate, stored in the back of a garage and has never been
fired up. What effect would that likely have on the engine? What should be
checked, examined before writing the check?
Thanks
GriffinWm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the frame |
>When I purchased my MKIII powder coating was not available from the
>factory and right now I do not have the cash to have it powder coated so
>if I am to continue I must do it my self. It will probably take me 10
>hours of work to scotchbright and then epoxy coat the frame. If you
>dont have the frame yet and have the money GET IT POWDER COATED. My
>dilemma is that the epoxy primer is a green color which is not a color I
>want to show inside the aircraft. I do not have the Stits paint yet
>which I understand should be put on when the epoxy is still tacky and
>even then will soften when the polytack is applied to cover the frame.
>How did any of you other frame painters deal with this situation?
>Does anyone know of a white spray paint that is not dissolved by the
>solvent MEK (methyl ethyl keytone)? The folks at R&R said if it is not
>dissolved by MEK the polytack will not affect it. I do not own a spray
>gun and was hoping not to borrow one just to paint the frame ( I use
>foam pads to apply the epoxy primer).
>
>Use Randolph brand epoxy primer, they have a cream color epoxy primer.
That is the one area that you do not have to stay Stits only.
The Polytack will not soften it. Rough it with Scotchbrite before painting.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | EGT'S and prop load |
Think of the engine as an air pump. The carb meters gas exactly as
you change jet sizes, no more. Bigger jets, more gas.
What if the engine over revs? Extra air...LEAN. EGT's UP.What if the
engine under revs? Less air...RICH. EGT's down.
Easy experiment. At cruise power settings, lower the nose and let
the airspeed build and watch the EGT. It will go up. Why? The fuel flow is
fixed at a given throttle setting. It does not increase. But rpm's increase
as airspeed builds and the engine unloads. Now the engine(air pump)is
pumping more air for the same fuel flow. What does that do? Lean things out,
EGT's up, CHT down (less load).A correctly jetted 2-cycle engine will drive
the EGT to very high levels if the nose is lowered at cruise and the
airspeed goes WAY up. Caution.
Without changing the jets, increase prop pitch. Fuel flow constant,
rpm's down, engine sucking less air(air pump pumping less air) , EGT's down,
CHT up(engine working harder).
CHT up or down is a function of how hard the engine is working.
EGT up or down is a function of mixture ratio under load, or lack of
load.
An under propped and over revved engine will always have high EGT
readings and will be difficult or impossible to jet properly.
An over propped and under revved engine will have low EGT's,
probably high CHT readings, will climb slowly and likely have a shorter than
normal service life (high crankshaft loads.)
Dennis was right, but did not go into details. This is the long
winded version with 4-part harmony and foofaraw. Old poops are like that.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Hello Fellow Kolbers,
We have a Quiksilver MXLII and a Mark III. The Quiksilver has a
503 and the Kolb has a 582. We use av-gas exclusively. From what we
have read and been told this seemed like the better way to go. We
originally did use auto fuel but we converted. One reason being was
that it was hard to find gas without alcohol in it. There is a
simple test to see if the Auto fuel had alcohol, but many stations
had alcohol in their fuel. So, we switched to Av-gas. There are a
few downsides to Av-gas. It has some lead in it so it builds up a
little bit more on the engine and of course it is more expensive.
Have any of you tried using "Marvel Mystery Oil"? We began to
use it on our Quiksilver and it cleaned up the insides quite well. I
am just curious how many of you are using it also.
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey@ben.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12.
(_____________//----------------\^ ca.us
/ o
( )
Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the frame |
On Fri, 16 May 1997, Jason Omelchuck wrote:
> Does anyone know of a white spray paint that is not dissolved by the
> solvent MEK (methyl ethyl keytone)? The folks at R&R said if it is not
> dissolved by MEK the polytack will not affect it. I do not own a spray
> gun and was hoping not to borrow one just to paint the frame ( I use
> foam pads to apply the epoxy primer).
When i built my Firestar I used Randolph epoxy primer (avail in off-white),
and decided later that I also wanted the cage frame to be the same color
as the whole plane. So, i tested a couple options. Stits Polytone
on primed metal is not a very tough (scratch resistant) paint, even
tho it is excellent on fabric. I found great success in a latex paint
from the hardware store called ToughCoat, and the manufacturer is Martin
Senour Paints. It is easy to use (latex), is nearly as tough as epoxy,
and does not soften at all from MEK or PolyTac. They had a color that
is nearly identical to my Stits polytone color and it can be tweaked
by pigments at the hw store. Great stuff. I sprayed it on after scuff
sanding and adhesion is excellent. BTW, prepping the steel frame and
misc fittings for epoxy priming took me closer to 30 hours. It is a
LOT of work!
For spray painting the frame i bought what is referred to as a touch-up
spray gun. It was $40, nothing fancy obviously, but just right for the
job. I also used it to spray other small parts and the tail surfaces.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Wing Washout, Stalls/Spins |
I agree with you. I was taught that using ailerons to correct for a
dropping wing in a stall or near stall condition was quickest way to a
unintentional spin. If I recall it's the up aileron that does the
dirty work, stalls out that wing first and over you go......
Interesting topic, but the way Kolb's fly and their proven tract
record says it all. Why mess with things that aren't broke. When
looking at homebuilts (be it experimental or UL category) the last
thing I like to hear is how the builder reenegineered this and that
because he thought he knew more how it should be. When it comes to
buying them, I run a way from them as fast as I can. I don't like
being a test pilot for someone else's changes on a proven design. Who
knows what else they changed and what characteristics has been
introduced and not discovered yet. Run Dick Run as fast as your can.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Wing Washout, Stalls/Spins
Date: 5/16/97 8:15 PM
On Thu, 15 May 1997 HGRAFF(at)aol.com wrote:
> Most A/C wings are built with approx. 2-3 degrees washout, to keep the
> ailerons active during a stall, and to make the stall progressive from the
> wing root out.
I know i already put in my $.02 worth, so i'm really pouring it on
here, sorry. But, it sort of dawned on me after sending my msg that this
thread has something to do with spin avoidance in a stall, and sort of
implies that the ailerons are the control input needed. This is not good
practice (CFIs check me here?), as aileron input generally reduces lift
and increases drag on the up aileron side, which can easily trigger
a spin. This may be more the case with airplanes other than a Kolb
(adverse yaw ain't hardly there), but it was what i was taught, and a
habit i've kept.
If you can stick with the mental habit of using RUDDER and elevator
during stalls, those are the same 2 inputs you need for spin recovery.
Conversely, a habit or thought of using ailerons could translate to longer
recovery time in a spin, or worse. BTW, obviously if you really *wag*
the rudder this doesn't mean the plane will not spin; quite the contrary!
All i'm saying is to use the rudder (gingerly?), not the ailerons, to
keep a stall straight and level.
ok, that's my $.04 :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
In a turn at minimum airspeed, the wing that stalls will be the wing
that has the greatest angle of attack-as "perceived" by the airflow. Think
about it, where does the airflow detach itself initially from the wing? It
starts from the back and works it's way forward until it REALLY detaches and
then the wing is stalled and lift is lost. If the aileron is up , the
airflow more easily follows the airfoil. If the aileron is down, the airfoil
is working harder, the air has to really turn the corner sharply, and tends
to detach itself.
Simple, scary test. Get REAL high, slow to minimum airspeed,
mentally review stall/spin recovery techniques, and start a turn to the
right. Keep cranking in LOTS of right aileron to tighten the turn while
letting air speed decay, and keep the rudder STRAIGHT AHEAD. Betcha the left
wing drops first, and BIG TIME. Recover from the beginning spin to the left
with gentle control inputs and watch your redline, and when you get back on
the ground, explain to your flying buddies why your seat fabric has that
litle pinch pleat in the middle.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clive Hatcher <CliveHatcher(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Storing a Rotax 503 |
>storage of the 503. I have the chance to buy a 14 year old engine that is
>still in the factory crate, stored in the back of a garage and has never
been
>fired up. What effect would that likely have on the engine? What should
be
>checked, examined before writing the check?
>Thanks
>GriffinWm
If you can, have the heads off and examine the piston rings and small end
bearings
with an eye glass for any signs of corrosion or pitting. If this is evident
you have to
suspect that the big ends and mains may also be suspect and this could be
expensive.
The crank shaft seals could also give trouble after this length of storage
but you would
have to run the engine for a few hours before inspecting them for leakage.
As a mater of course I would replace the fuel pump diaphram having had one
split
under normal operation.
Clive Hatcher - running a Mark III with a 582 in the UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "friend" <friend(at)mail.bright.net> |
HI
The flow resistance can be reduced by removeing spring in the
check valve of the primer bulb , cut steel band at the RED end
pull out red end and pull,cut, ,jerk spring only out of check
replace end and secure with 1/4 wide ss automotive hose clamp,
then mount bulb in somewhat vertical position.
Duane Zollinger FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | propwash <propwash(at)gte.net> |
Has anyone used the Megellan 2000? Kmart has them for 139.99
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Bill Genteman instructs in a kolb mark III with a 582 out of
Menominee Falls Wi. NW of Milwaukee out of Aero Park a predominantly
Ultralight field listed on the secional chart just north of Capitol Dr.
airport. #'s for Bill are; >>
I met bill briefly on a business trip to Milwaukee from Warren, Oh. one
lonely day and got there just as he was towing a hang glider up as the sun
was approaching the setting point. The sky was afire and multicolored and I
thought I was in heaven. Bill is a very nice guy, as we jabbered on into the
dusk.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:15:19 -0400
>To: propwash(at)gte.net
>From: richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
>Subject: Re: gps
>
>>Has anyone used the Megellan 2000? Kmart has them for 139.99
>>
>> I have one in my MKIII, and am very pleased with it. It is mounted
on top of my control stick, which is a convenient place, because the keypad
is on the bottom of the unit and you can change stuff one handed without
turning loose of the stick. I 'splained this before so bear with
me...measure the o.d. of your stick and slit a 3" length of steel tubing in
half. Weld a 5" length of steel strap on one outside edge pointing up and
away at about a 60 degree angle. Paint it. Slide down your rubber grip and
slip the 1/2 round tube section against the stick and tape it in place with
black electric tape. Slide the rubber grip back in place over it. Glue a bit
of rubber padding to the strap, and lay the gps on it. Wrap more black
electric tape around the strap/gps to hold it in place, take a new razor
blade and trim the face so that it looks neat. Make sure it is up high
enough above the stick so that you can easily change batteries out the
bottom of the gps. Enjoy.
> P.S. Disable the altitude read portion of the GPS or else it will
add the altitude to your distance to go. So if you are one mile from goal,
and 5200' high, it says 2 miles to go. The altitude is not very accurate anyway.
> Richard Pike
> Technical Counselor EAA442
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon P. Croke" <75273.1211(at)CompuServe.COM> |
AM interested in your opinion:
Just finished the break-in routine for the brand new 503 DC on the almost ready
FSI equipped with
a wooden prop 66 X 34 and the gearbox is a 2.58 B.
The question I have is this: The max RPM I achieved during break-in was
5900-6000. No higher!
Is this too low? There is nothing to adjust with a wooden prop....! Maybe the
tach is off a little (a cheapy)?!
EGT was pretty low at this max speed... Would a leaner mixture increase the
speed? Am I gonna miss
full power if it wont go any faster??
What a surprise to see the nose bite the earth when you rev past 5000!!!
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
| Subject: | floats on MarkII or Mark III |
Hello,
>
>
> I am looking for somebody that has a kolb on floats.
> I would like to try some float on my Mark II, but if there is a big big
> lost in performance, than i would like to know, just not to be
> disappointed.
>
> My float are puddle jumper than I had on my quicksilver mxII. I wil have
> to get information
> from kolb to get drawing for the installation of these floats if they
fit.
>
> I hope that it is nice to be on floats because I live beside a river and
> during the summer my airplane is at half an hour from my home, and it
could
> be in my yard (because it is on wheel)
>
> Hopefully there is somebody that can answer me
>
> Thanks, and see you soon
>
> ______________________________
> My name is : Sandro Bastien
> I live in : Laval, Quebec, Canada
> My e-mail is : sbastien(at)dsuper.net
> ______________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
> Just finished the break-in routine for the brand new 503 DC on the almost
ready
> FSI equipped with
> a wooden prop 66 X 34 and the gearbox is a 2.58 B.
>
> The question I have is this: The max RPM I achieved during break-in was
> 5900-6000. No higher!
> Is this too low? There is nothing to adjust with a wooden prop....!
Maybe the
> tach is off a little (a cheapy)?!
>
> EGT was pretty low at this max speed... Would a leaner mixture increase
the
> speed? Am I gonna miss
> full power if it wont go any faster??
>
> What a surprise to see the nose bite the earth when you rev past 5000!!!
>
>__________________________________________________
Answer from sbastien(at)dsuper.net
I have the same prop on my mark II and my RPM is 6500 with an EGT of 1100F
in the summer with main jet of 158.
Maybe you should check your two main jets for the correct size, because if
you can't get the max RPM,
this mean that there is something wrong with engine power.
I have to change my main jet for the winter (165)x 2 carbs and if Ikeep
these jets very late in the late winter, my engine gets too much fuel (too
rich)and it doesn't run smooth but l can still get 6400 rpm.
If your engine run smooth maybe the prop is not identified correctly and
has a bigger pitch. Hopefully it is not the engine that has a problem.
1- check your carb. setting
2- if it is good than try to borrow a prop from a friend an run the engine
again
give some new.
good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
| Subject: | MARK III Instruction |
Made a quick trip from Nebraska to Wisconsin this last weekend to get some
dual in Bill Genteman's Mark III before I climb in mine this next weekend.
I figured it would take 4 hours or more but felt comfortable after 1.5
I would highly recommend some dual instruction to anyone who has any doubt
about their ability.
Bill is a fine instructor by the way.
My experience is ~500 hrs in general aviation. No taildragger and no stick time.
Doug Prange
Lincoln, Nebraska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Mattsen <dmattsen(at)isd.net> |
richard pike wrote:
I would like to know what GPS engine you are talking about here (or do
you mean all engines?) and exactly where you got your information to say
that one has to disable the altitude portion of a GPS to get absolute
accuracy. If what you say stands true, then every one who does not
disable the altitude portion of their GPS will not be getting accurate
navigation information because, as you say, the altitude portion of a
GPS is not particularly accurate (which is a correct staement). I'm
sure a lot of people would be interested to know the source of this
info.
Also, if one is approaching Leadville airport in CO at over 10,000ft for
example, does the GPS add or subtract the sea level altitude or the AGL
altitude to the position to give the error? Because I was under the
understanding that GPS gave position on the ground regardless of the
altitude above sea level, and not an uncorrected GPS position with or
without the AGL taken into account.
Dan
--
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* * *
May all the stepping stones be high and dry in your walk across
the river of life.
- Dan Mattsen -
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* * *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 23:55:42 -0400
>To: dmattsen(at)isd.net
>From: richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
>Subject: Re: gps
>
>>richard pike wrote:
>>
>>> add the altitude to your distance to go. So if you are one mile from
>>goal,
>> and 5200' high, it says 2 miles to go. The altitude is not very
>>accurate anyway.>
>>
>>
>>I would like to know what GPS engine you are talking about here (or do
>>you mean all engines?) and exactly where you got your information to say
>>that one has to disable the altitude portion of a GPS to get absolute
>>accuracy. If what you say stands true, then every one who does not
>>disable the altitude portion of their GPS will not be getting accurate
>>navigation information because, as you say, the altitude portion of a
>>GPS is not particularly accurate (which is a correct staement). I'm
>>sure a lot of people would be interested to know the source of this
>>info.
>>
>>Also, if one is approaching Leadville airport in CO at over 10,000ft for
>>example, does the GPS add or subtract the sea level altitude or the AGL
>>altitude to the position to give the error? Because I was under the
>>understanding that GPS gave position on the ground regardless of the
>>altitude above sea level, and not an uncorrected GPS position with or
>>without the AGL taken into account.
>>
>>Dan
>>
>>--
>>* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>>* * *
>>May all the stepping stones be high and dry in your walk across
>>the river of life.
>>
>>- Dan Mattsen -
>>* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>>* * *
>>
>> Don't know how the rest of them work, but my Magellin 2000 has no
data base, you put in your landmarks and there is a data line for the
elevation of that landmark. When I first got it, before my airplane was
done, I loaned it to a co-worker with a PA32 to see if it would read above
100kts airspeed (it will) and when he gave it back he said that it gave
readings that added the elevation distance to lateral distance until he
turned off the altitude feature, at which point it read accurately the
distance to the fix. I took his word for it and left it that way, and it is
accurate. Guess I could turn the altitude read out back on and see if he was
pulling my leg. Hate to pass on corrupt data...
> As for the second part of your question, ask sombody smarter, I
don't know.
> Richard Pike
> Technical Counselor EAA442
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Coffman <snackbar(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Exciting Introduction to Ultralight Flying] |
From: William Coffman <snackbar(at)erols.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Exciting Introduction to Ultralight Flying
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 14:25:42 -0700
NNTP-Posting-Host: col-as11s17.erols.com
Xref: winter.erols.com rec.aviation.ultralight:10712
Baltimore, MD
Today was the first flight testing for our Kolb Ultrastar. We have over
5
hours of taxi time and static testing on a new Cayuna powerplant. The first run
down
field was a short 10 foot hop just to get a feel for things as well as to evauluate
a
cockpit cowling of our own design for aerodynamics. She seemed to fly beautifully.
With confidence now, I took off to circle the pattern and make a few low approaches
to aquaint myself with the plane's characteristics. While on my first downwind
leg
at 700 feet agl, the engine quit suddenly. I couldn't have been in a better
location and I continued around and set up for my "one shot" first time ever, final
approach in a new aircraft. All went well except for my slight misjudgement of
my
altitude at flair and I set her down pretty hard. Those of you with knowledge
of
the rigid nature of the Ultrastar's landing gear are probably already going "Uh
Oh!"
The right gear collapsed surprisingly gently and I skidded to an abrupt stop.
In
many ways luck was smiling on me. The propellor stopped turning in the horizontal
position, saving it from digging into the ground. Secondly I wisely climbed rapidly
and stayed in the pattern in a habitual expectation of engine failure.
Aside from the damaged gear, the reason for the failure is still unclear.
At the priming bulb, we noticed some air bubbles in the fuel line. These bubbles
were NOT seen past the vacume driven fuel pump between that pump and the carburator.
We did not attempt to restart the engine after this incident but the engine did
not
seize and there were no obvious signs of the culprit. By my reports and the opinions
at the field, we seem to have suffered some form of fuel interuption. Carburator
Icing was also considered since it was about 80 degrees and humid on the field.
Since there was no loss of power prior to the failure, I am not sure what to think
about that.
The Ultrastar handled beautifully, both before and after the engine failure.
I was very pleased with the dead stick glide ratio. She didn't seem to care the
engine stopped. She wanted to fly. The cockpit we designed for it provided the
pilot with basic instruments and an unbelievable break from the wind. This design
is
also being considered for our engine failure since it forces air around the nose.
Overheating and airflow restrictions are all being reevaulated. I'm so sorry
that I
didn't note the CHT at the time of the failure. The gage is mounted low and not
very
conspicuous, and I was far more concerned about my return to earth.
If anyone has anything to offer about the engine failure or our cockpit
cowling feel free. I do have some pictures but I don't want to flood the NewGroup
with them. Email me directly if your that interested.
Happy Flying
William Coffman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Exciting Introduction to Ultralight Flying] |
Sounds like you lucked out. I notice you gave the address as Baltimore.
Where were you flying? There are a couple of guys with an Ultrastar at
Essex who migh be able to give you some help.
Don't be so sure your engine didn't seize. You should remove the exhaust
manifold and look around inside with a dental mirror and a flashlight to be
sure there is no scoring before you run it again. It is a fairly common
scenario for an engine to overheat, seize, and then cool down again and free
up. That doesn't mean everything is ok. Be careful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
Hi
I have a question for the group, what have you done to stop the elevator
cable from slapping in the tail boom when taxiing? It makes a plinking
sound and even if it does not hurt it is agravating.
I am thinking of putting some small balls of ethafoam on the cable to see if
that would help.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
____________\_/____________
|
(*)
O O
Happy Landings
Charles :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Kelly" <jtk1976(at)mail.acilink.net> |
| Subject: | Brakes and Bolts |
Brakes:
I am interested in Firestar owners that have had success in brake
installations. Are the factory supplied units the way to go, or is there
an aftermarket supplier (CPS/Lockwood, etc.) that offers a nice package for
a Kolb? I haven't called Kolb yet, but saw brakes mentioned in there
last mailing. Wheel pants?
Bolts:
I saw several Kolb models at S/F with "bolted to the frame"
windsheilds/enclosures. My 1985 vintage unit used pop rivets. Anyone
using a bolted enclosure please pass along the nomenclature for the bolts
used, and what kind of anti-vibration treatment to isolate the "glass" from
the bolt/frame. Also, what degree of degradation in tube integrity as a
result of the hole? (I used to hear a 1/4 inch hole in a 1 inch tube was a
30% loss of strength.)....these tubes are much smaller, but stronger? 4130
vs. 6061.
Thank you for any input, Jim
(I know, "Get off the computer and call Kolb with this, for crying out
loud!")
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | propwash <propwash(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes and Bolts |
Jim Kelly wrote:
>
> Brakes:
>
> I am interested in Firestar owners that have had success in brake
> installations. Are the factory supplied units the way to go, or is there
> an aftermarket supplier (CPS/Lockwood, etc.) that offers a nice package for
> a Kolb? I haven't called Kolb yet, but saw brakes mentioned in there
> last mailing. Wheel pants?
>
> Bolts:
>
> I saw several Kolb models at S/F with "bolted to the frame"
> windsheilds/enclosures. My 1985 vintage unit used pop rivets. Anyone
> using a bolted enclosure please pass along the nomenclature for the bolts
> used, and what kind of anti-vibration treatment to isolate the "glass" from
> the bolt/frame.
> Thank you for any input, Jim
Our Firefly has tabs welded to the frame and the enclouser bolts
to this. The holes are over sized and uses common "sink faucit"rubber
washers for vibration,not to tight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)zoom1.telepath.com> |
> I have a question for the group, what have you done to stop the elevator
> cable from slapping in the tail boom when taxiing? It makes a plinking
> sound and even if it does not hurt it is agravating.
> I am thinking of putting some small balls of ethafoam on the cable to see if
> that would help.
> Any other ideas?
Made two brackets that support four extra pullys. I wasn't wild about
the idea of the cables rubbing the leading edge of the boom tube
support or slapping around either.
The brackets were made of two pieces of aluminum bar of sufficient
length. The bar was cut at the top to make a cap and then the cap and
bottom piece were drilled and tapped for socket head or cap bolts (I
used 10-32 stainless socket head screws) to hold them together. Then
drill a hole the same size as one of the fuselage cross bars that
runs aft of the first set of pullys (behind the seat). The cables
are routed under the factory installed set and over the newly
installed pullys. There is very little angular change from one set to
the other so wear is mitigated. Make sure that there is a capture
plate above the second set of pullys so the cable can't jump off the
pully and lodge between the pullys. The end result is that the cables
run nearer the center of the tube (still below the "H" member) and
don't contact anything through the length of the tube.
Why go to the trouble of machining a capped clamp for the pullys? I
hate drilling any tube for any reason. If I can clamp it, all the
better.
This worked for my FS2. Others may not have the same configuration.
Jim Baker
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
| Subject: | Re: floats on MarkII or Mark III |
You wrote:
>
>
>
>Hello,
>>
>>
>> I am looking for somebody that has a kolb on floats.
>> I would like to try some float on my Mark II, but if there is a big
big
>> lost in performance, than i would like to know, just not to be
>> disappointed.
>>
>> My float are puddle jumper than I had on my quicksilver mxII. I wil
have
>> to get information
>> from kolb to get drawing for the installation of these floats if
they
>fit.
>>
>> I hope that it is nice to be on floats because I live beside a river
and
>> during the summer my airplane is at half an hour from my home, and
it
>could
>> be in my yard (because it is on wheel)
>>
>> Hopefully there is somebody that can answer me
>>
>> Thanks, and see you soon
>>
>> ______________________________
>> My name is : Sandro Bastien
>> I live in : Laval, Quebec, Canada
>> My e-mail is : sbastien(at)dsuper.net
>> ______________________________
>>
>>
>>
>
Hi Sandro:
I have a Mark-III (582Rotax) with amphib LOTUS floats with 370 hrs
flying time on it.
I never flew this plane without the floats but believe that the max.
speed of my Mark-III is 5-10 MPH less and the 125 # floats reduce the
climb rate considerably when carrying a 175# passenger for a total of
1000 lbs gross weight(including a BRS unit).
What engine do you have on your Mark-II? The Rotax 503 will give you a
very marginal climb if you carry a passenger or are otherwise at or
near gross weight (750# for a Mark-II I believe)but I have seen a video
of somebody flying this plane with an amphib Lotus Monofloat at Lake
Havasu some years ago.
If you fly mostly with the right seat empty you may be OK.
As far as bolting the floats to your plane, I designed my own
attachments and do not know of anybody having a design for Mark-II and
Puddlejumper combination.
E-mail me if you want more specifics.
Frank Reynen Mark-III @370hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
On my FS II I bought four cable pulleys (same size as the ones that
came with the plane) and made a small steel cage to hold the pulleys,
similar to the one thats under the seat, and mounted it at the opening of
the fuselage tube where the cables would normally rub, it holds the cables
about two inches above the tube. I don't know if the cable still hits the
tube, because I haven't got my plane out of the garage yet. I only did this
to prevent the cables from rubbing the tube. Besides if the cables weren't
slapping it wouldn't sound like a Kolb.
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
You can take some high density styrafoam, Saw it round
to press inside tailboom. Drill holes through styrafoam
for cables. Push styrafoam about halfway through tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
<< what have you done to stop the elevator
cable from slapping in the tail boom when taxiing? >>
Nothing. I suppose you could split some fuel line and slide it over
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes and Bolts |
>
>Brakes:
>
> I am interested in Firestar owners that have had success in brake
>installations. Are the factory supplied units the way to go, or is there
>an aftermarket supplier (CPS/Lockwood, etc.) that offers a nice package for
>a Kolb? I haven't called Kolb yet, but saw brakes mentioned in there
>last mailing. Wheel pants?
>
>
>Bolts:
>
>I saw several Kolb models at S/F with "bolted to the frame"
>windsheilds/enclosures. My 1985 vintage unit used pop rivets. Anyone
>using a bolted enclosure please pass along the nomenclature for the bolts
>used, and what kind of anti-vibration treatment to isolate the "glass" from
>the bolt/frame. Also, what degree of degradation in tube integrity as a
>result of the hole? (I used to hear a 1/4 inch hole in a 1 inch tube was a
>30% loss of strength.)....these tubes are much smaller, but stronger? 4130
>vs. 6061.
>
>Thank you for any input, Jim
>
>(I know, "Get off the computer and call Kolb with this, for crying out
>loud!")
>
> Hello Jim
The bolted full enclosure or partial enclosure on the newer Kolbs are
bolted through a tab that is welded on the side of the tube, there is not a
hole drilled through the tube it self. You could make little clamps that
would wrap around the steel tube for bolting you lexan to.
John
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 20 May 1997, Jim Kelly wrote:
>
> Brakes:
>
> I am interested in Firestar owners that have had success in brake
> installations. Are the factory supplied units the way to go, or is there
> an aftermarket supplier (CPS/Lockwood, etc.) that offers a nice package for
> a Kolb? I haven't called Kolb yet, but saw brakes mentioned in there
> last mailing. Wheel pants?
>
I've mentioned this before, but...
I don't like the Azusa drum brakes. They are heavy and kind of
poor quality. A failure inside the drum could spell wheel-lockup
and I've heard of one case of this. But, i don't even know if Kolb
is still supplying these kind. The same brake OEM vendor also offers
a band brake, which avoids the potential trouble of a failure inside
the drum. However, they are still a little heavy. I ended up making
my own brakes, sort of funky, but super light and good enf. I bent
and welded some 0.5" chromoly tubing to act as a lever, and used 2.5"
AL channel to get a fulcrum out from the axle to near the wheel rim.
My brake cable pulls one end of this lever near the axle and the other
end of the lever has a brake pad on it that is pushed against the tire.
The NaySayers told me that tire wear would be severe, but not so.
Braking power may not be adequate for medium or small tires; I use
large tundra tires. Email me for more details if you're so inclined.
Another option is a mechanical disk brake caliper. I bought a pair of
these to consider as an option (only $24), as i didn't want the mess,
weight, expense, or braking power of hydraulics. The caliper pads on
these are small (~7/8" diam) so their braking power is probably good
only for single place as well. If you want a vendor for where to pick
these up, let me know.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bkearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil |
Hello Bill and others,
> Can you give details on how much and when you use the Marvel Mystery
> Oil and how you can tell it "cleaned up the insides"? Thanks.
On the can of the Oil it says exactly how much to use. After every
hundred hours or so we used to break down the top ends of the 503 to
decarbonize the piston heads, rings, and cylinders. After about 50
hours of use after decarbonizing, we used the Marvel Mystery Oil and
it cleaned up a lot of the carbon that had already built inside.
You don't use it as a substitute, you just add it into the fuel/oil
mix. I was just curious if anyone else had tried it and if they have
had the same experience.
About the alcohol in car gas, there have been articles in UF about it
and how it can cause high temperatures ect. For you (sorry forgot
who it was that wrote me) in Quebec, it is probably just fine, but
out here in CA we can get some very hot days. So far this year we
have been in the 90s for many a day.
Sorry about the long reply. I'm a procrastinator, what can I say.
Well of to some overdue homework :P
Brandon Kearbey
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey@ben.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12.
(_____________//----------------\^ ca.us
/ o
( )
Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil |
Hey . . . be real careful with the Marvel Mystery oil. I've told this
story before but here it is again. Three years ago when I was at Sun'Fun I
was going around to all the Rotax Authroized Repair guys to see if they had a
low time 582 they wanted to sell cheap. I got talking to the guy from
Missippi Ultralights, I think, and he offered to sell me a freshly rebuilt
582 with only 10 original hours. When I asked him what happened to the
engine he explainted to me that a very well known opperator of a highly
modified mark 3 had decided to deviate from the recomended practice in the
manual and chose to replace some portion of the injection oil with marvel
mystery oil. The engine seized on him in short order causing a serious
crash.
Alot of general aviation guys fiddle around with marvel mystery oil.
Aviation Consumer, which I think is the best of the GA magazines, looked at
it closely and decided MMO is mostly perfume and coloring with a little high
quality oil that may do somehting for your valves. Hey, we really need that
with a 2 stroke . . . .
I seems to me that if you add MMO to the standard recomended mix then yu
are increasing the oil fraction and actually asking for more combustion
byproducts to be deposited on the piston and rings.
If you really want to mess around with a "tune up in a bottle" you might
look at Avblend. It is some fairly expensive snake oil that at least has FAA
approval.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | propwash <propwash(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil |
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey . . . be real careful with the Marvel Mystery oil. I've told this
> story before but here it is again. Three years ago when I was at Sun'Fun I
> was going around to all the Rotax Authroized Repair guys to see if they had a
> low time 582 they wanted to sell cheap. I got talking to the guy from
> Missippi Ultralights, I think, and he offered to sell me a freshly rebuilt
> 582 with only 10 original hours. When I asked him what happened to the
> engine he explainted to me that a very well known opperator of a highly
> modified mark 3 had decided to deviate from the recomended practice in the
> manual and chose to replace some portion of the injection oil with marvel
> mystery oil. The engine seized on him in short order causing a serious
> crash.
>
> Alot of general aviation guys fiddle around with marvel mystery oil.
> Aviation Consumer, which I think is the best of the GA magazines, looked at
> it closely and decided MMO is mostly perfume and coloring with a little high
> quality oil that may do somehting for your valves. Hey, we really need that
> with a 2 stroke . . . .
>
> I seems to me that if you add MMO to the standard recomended mix then yu
> are increasing the oil fraction and actually asking for more combustion
> byproducts to be deposited on the piston and rings.
>
> If you really want to mess around with a "tune up in a bottle" you might
> look at Avblend. It is some fairly expensive snake oil that at least has FAA
> approval.
>
>
From the marina I was partners in, Several people bought engines
playing with MMoil.
Stick with the designers program as they are much smarter than us.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
| Subject: | MARK III Instruction |
Made a quick trip from Nebraska to Wisconsin this last weekend to get some
dual in Bill Genteman's Mark III before I climb in mine this next weekend.
I figured it would take 4 hours or more but felt comfortable after 1.5
I would highly recommend some dual instruction to anyone who has any doubt
about their ability.
Bill is a fine instructor by the way.
My experience is ~500 hrs in general aviation. No taildragger and no stick time.
Doug Prange
Lincoln, Nebraska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
Has anyone ever installed a stall warning system on there plane, like
piper's and cessna's have? I cann't help think that some of the accidents
that I've read about on here in the last couple of months could have been
avoided if there was a warning before a stall.
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | propwash <propwash(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
Cal wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever installed a stall warning system on there plane, like
> piper's and cessna's have? I cann't help think that some of the accidents
> that I've read about on here in the last couple of months could have been
> avoided if there was a warning before a stall.
> Cal
Boy I wish,stick shaker anything.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Three phase regulator-rectifier |
Hi,
I bought a three phase rectifier to give me some power in the Firestar
so I could run my GPS and some other things. I hooked it up as near as I
can tell as it said to do. Now I only get 6 volts out of it.I'm hoping
that I missed something obvious in the installation and that someone out
there will save me a lot of trouble and head scratching.
I also have been having trouble with my midrange egt on my 447. Low and
high was just fine running about 1050 to 1100. Everywhere that I put the
clip on the needlejet (15K2) that controls the midrange was too hot. I
put it all the way down and fouled my plugs. I ordered a 15E5U. I put it
in this evening and ran the engine static at 5600 and the temp stayed
1050 to 1125. I will report further when I have flown it.
Thanks
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Oils to clean with |
The current discussion about Marvel Mystery Oil reminds me of a
curious phenomenon I discovered several years ago. The Red Baron Stearman
team had been at our field and when they got ready to leave, they still had
5 gallons of smoke oil left over, and I talked them out of it. Went home and
rigged up a smoke system on my Hummer. Drilled a hole in the exhaust
manifold about 10" from the port and injected the oil in under pressure.
Smoked like CRAZY under throttle, quit when you let off. Had fun at fly-ins
burping the engine, smoking like crazy and gradually disappearing behind the
trees while my buddies on the ground stood around listening to the whuffos
hollerin' "He's a-smokin an a-goin down!"
The interesting part was that it blistered the paint off the exhaust
pipe in obvious wave form segments, the rpm rose slightly when you turned
the smoke valve on, and the exhaust port got cleaned up like new (almost
never been run)engine. That was a Rotax 277, and it never hurt it.
What the Red Barons were using was Corvis oil, which they told me
was used to oil down wooden pallets, and was normal for aircraft smoke
systems.(??)
Obviously it is different from MMO , but adding extra, nonstandard oil will
certainly produce odd results. (That's why they are called Experimental
Aircraft. The FAA ignores you while you conduct idiotic experiments...)
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Engine for FireFly |
I will be ordering an engine for my FireFly next month the way it
looks. Went to Sun & Fun, came back totally confused. It's a toss up
between the three players - Rotax, Hirth, & 2Si. I need some help.
(Dennis @ Kolb) I know you were looking at the engines as a sub for
the Rotax 277. Can you comment on items 2, 3, & 4 below. You can skip
reading the rest. Thanks
The Rotax seems to perform well with the exception they seem a little
sensitive to seizures. They also have a good maintenance channels
established. Nobody seemed to know much about Hirth except the people
at the Hirth booth, recent addition of US distributors, little actual
experience what I can see meaning big bucks and I'm on my own. 2Si
had a nice booth, very heavy into water cooled, not a lot in air
cooled engines on display. They have a good price, new maintenance
channels much like Hirth with little field experience (example
Aircraft Spruce is now hawking all three brands) what I can tell.
Anybody out there have any experience with 2Si a.k.a. Cuyuna.
Looking at the 2Si 35-40 HP. What's the story.
1.) How do they compare to the Rotax's.
2.) Do they fit the same mounting dimensions as the Rotax?
3.) Any comments about their exhaust system or required special
fabrication for use on a Kolb FireFly?
4.) Are they reliable?
5.) How do they compare on weight/HP with Rotax?
6.) Do they put out their claimed HP as compared to Rotax?
7.) Are they as seizure sensitive as the Rotax seems to be?
8.) Can they be configured with dual ignition?
9.) How is fuel consumption compared to a Rotax of equivalent HP?
10.) Are they (2Si) listening to the air cooled end of the UL/Light
plane market?
Comments and replies welcome and thanks for your input.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings,
Has anyone else had trouble dealing with BRS? I've placed 2 orders for chutes
for the SlingShot, and don't have anything to show for it.
I originally ordered a 900# canister back in January for $1895, but after 2
months BRS still hadn't done anything with it. They claim that the SlingShot
mounting won't be the same as the FireStar despite the fact that Dennis told
them it would be (correct me if I'm wrong Dennis), and the fact that the
factory SS had one installed at the time. Apparently, BRS thinks they know the
Kolb designs better than Dennis does. After getting totally pissed at BRS, I
canceled the order.
About a week ago, I found out that BRS just had the mother of all price
increases of $300. I called them to see if they would sell me one at the old
price since THEY were the ones that couldn't deliver before, but that was a
total waste of time. Next I called around and found that Spruce had an
abnormally low price on the 750# canister of $1700. This is really all I need
for my purposes so I placed the order. Later that day, I got a message from
Spruce saying that BRS wouldn't allow them to place an order for a 750# chute
for a SlingShot. Also, they said the canister mount wasn't available for the
SS.
Yet another angry call to BRS to find out that they have a policy which won't
allow them to sell a chute smaller than the specs from the Kit manufacturer
suggest. Also, they recommend the VLS model of chute for the SS, even though
the mounting for it isn't approved either. I specifically don't want the VLS
because it's more expensive, has a shorter repack time of 4 years rather than 6
for the canister, and isn't as well proven. Thursday, they were supposed to
be asking one of the owners if they could sell me a canister model in either
the 750 or 900# size. Friday I didn't receive the message they promised so I
left them another message. I doubt they'll ever call back.
It looks like my only options are to do without a chute (which gets
more appealing with every call to BRS), or place an order for the 750 or 900
canister by listing the plane as a FireStar rather than a SlingShot (and hope
they don't recognize my name). It just shouldn't be this difficult. Why do I
have to beg them to sell me a chute? Don't know what I'll do.
OK, I'm all better now :-) Thanks for listening.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I bought my BRS from Grand rapids technologies who makes the EIS instrument.
I got the BRS for a price that nobody else could even come close to when I
bought the two together. The EIS instrument is an awsom unit by the way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
> I bought my BRS from Grand rapids technologies who makes the EIS instrument.
> I got the BRS for a price that nobody else could even come close to when I
> bought the two together. The EIS instrument is an awsom unit by the way.
Hi Tim,
I bought an EIS back in December and the original chute purchase attempt was
placed through Greg at EIS. You're correct about the great prices w/purchase.
For some odd reason though, Spruce now has the 750# chute for $1700 where EIS
is currently at $1845. This trend doesn't hold true for the 900# unit though.
Spruce is $2340 and EIS is $2195. Go figure. Unfortunately, BRS has nothing
"approved" for sale for the SlingShot.
Another BRS question. If I do lie to them and say I have a FireStar, I assume
any hope of "registering" my installation is pretty much out the window. Just
what kind of warranty would I be missing out on if that's the case?
In better news, I just covered the bottom of the cage and installed the rear
fairing. I hope to have the rest of the cage covered by the end of the long
weekend.
Cheers,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Hi Russ,
Can't believe it but yet I do.
Since they no longer have any competition I suspected their business
practices were going to change. I became more concerned when they got
the second NASA grant and started working with the bigger GA
airplanes. It has to distract them from the UL market. Myself I
don't see much effort beyond the term of the grant funding for the
small aircraft market. There's just not going to be enough demand in
that class airframe to survive on.
The reason the UL market is there is because of the weight limitation
and the early weak airframes some UL's had which created the demand.
Most of those have been weeded out. In the mean time their going to
take advantage of the grant money line their pocket books while
upgrading their facility, equipment, and manpower expertise. In the
same situation I would do the same thing but I don't think I would get
as greedy.
I stopped by their booth at S&F. I mentioned to them I had read they
intended to increase their prices. I expressed to them I thought they
were starting to get out of hand. Any further price increases would
result in my having to reconsider purchasing a unit. "I stated their
fire extinguisher was getting a little pricey." Their arrogant come
back was to effect that your buy it for when you need it. This puts
it into a risk/cost assessment which forces me look at other ways to
reduce risk since a chute doesn't fix everything.
I never flown with one yet today and intend to do what is reasonable
to prevent requiring one in the first place. By flying a time proven
design, I reduce the probability of requiring one. Sure there will
always be some risk but I assume that when I get into any airplane,
whether it be a GA or the airliner I flew in to get there. A chute
reduces some risk but does not eliminate them all. There's no
guarantee they'll even work should the time come you need it.
Presently I am more concerned with the hours and flights I am logging
on airliners.
My worst fear is in a pusher configuration like the Kolb. If
something should go through the prop and create an unbalanced
situation causing the engine to separate from the airframe. There's
been a couple cases where the parachute created a problem when the
harness itself came loose, got into the prop tearing the engine loose.
In those cases it proved detrimental to even have one.
If your ever jumped a parachute especially the old style military
canopy like they use (I have), you'll find the landing typically is
bone jarring. The rate of decent is much faster than you think it is.
You may survive but likely your plane is going to be bent and your
going to be taking an inventory of your parts to determine which are
still working.
The solution simply may be a couple of safety cables to keep the
engine attached to the airframe and maintain the CG. Far less
expensive than their chute. Other than that, and making sure before
each flight that all the pins and clips for the wings, struts, and
horizontal tail surfaces are in place, I don't see a problem flying a
Kolb with out one. Yep, a couple good cables is a heck of a lot
cheaper.
You talked me into it. I going with the cables. I going to fax them
a letter this week to that effect. Anybody else up to it. Only if
they get hit with a number of letters over a short period of a week or
two will it get their attention. Remaining silent you automatically
lose, just open your wallet.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS hassle
Date: 5/24/97 2:34 PM
Greetings,
Has anyone else had trouble dealing with BRS? I've placed 2 orders for chutes
for the SlingShot, and don't have anything to show for it.
I originally ordered a 900# canister back in January for $1895, but after 2
months BRS still hadn't done anything with it. They claim that the SlingShot
mounting won't be the same as the FireStar despite the fact that Dennis told
them it would be (correct me if I'm wrong Dennis), and the fact that the
factory SS had one installed at the time. Apparently, BRS thinks they know the
Kolb designs better than Dennis does. After getting totally pissed at BRS, I
canceled the order.
About a week ago, I found out that BRS just had the mother of all price
increases of $300. I called them to see if they would sell me one at the old
price since THEY were the ones that couldn't deliver before, but that was a
total waste of time. Next I called around and found that Spruce had an
abnormally low price on the 750# canister of $1700. This is really all I need
for my purposes so I placed the order. Later that day, I got a message from
Spruce saying that BRS wouldn't allow them to place an order for a 750# chute
for a SlingShot. Also, they said the canister mount wasn't available for the
SS.
Yet another angry call to BRS to find out that they have a policy which won't
allow them to sell a chute smaller than the specs from the Kit manufacturer
suggest. Also, they recommend the VLS model of chute for the SS, even though
the mounting for it isn't approved either. I specifically don't want the VLS
because it's more expensive, has a shorter repack time of 4 years rather than 6
for the canister, and isn't as well proven. Thursday, they were supposed to
be asking one of the owners if they could sell me a canister model in either
the 750 or 900# size. Friday I didn't receive the message they promised so I
left them another message. I doubt they'll ever call back.
It looks like my only options are to do without a chute (which gets
more appealing with every call to BRS), or place an order for the 750 or 900
canister by listing the plane as a FireStar rather than a SlingShot (and hope
they don't recognize my name). It just shouldn't be this difficult. Why do I
have to beg them to sell me a chute? Don't know what I'll do.
OK, I'm all better now :-) Thanks for listening.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oils to clean with |
Injecting smoke oil into the exhaust manifold is a lot different than
adding (MMO) to your fuel. It's interesting the effect you discovered
injecting smoke oil down stream in the exhaust manifold cleaned up the
exhaust port. What did it look like before you starting doing that or did
just assume it cleaned it up. Maybe it was clean to start with because you
had been using a good 2-stroke oil. There appears to be differences in 2
stroke oil and effects of the RPM and loading levels the engines are
operated at.
I won't put MMO into my oil injection tank on a 2 stroke. Mixing it in the
fuel might be OK. I had added MMO to the fuel on 4 stroke engines and it
did help clean up the valve and ring seating. Didn't run with it all the
time, just a batch once in a while. I got introduced to MMO on air tools.
Add a few drops to the air inlet on a air tools at the beginning of the
day. I never had to rebuild or replace an air tool yet. Seems to make a
difference.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Oils to clean with
Date: 5/23/97 11:43 PM
The current discussion about Marvel Mystery Oil reminds me of a
curious phenomenon I discovered several years ago. The Red Baron Stearman
team had been at our field and when they got ready to leave, they still had
5 gallons of smoke oil left over, and I talked them out of it. Went home and
rigged up a smoke system on my Hummer. Drilled a hole in the exhaust
manifold about 10" from the port and injected the oil in under pressure.
Smoked like CRAZY under throttle, quit when you let off. Had fun at fly-ins
burping the engine, smoking like crazy and gradually disappearing behind the
trees while my buddies on the ground stood around listening to the whuffos
hollerin' "He's a-smokin an a-goin down!"
The interesting part was that it blistered the paint off the exhaust
pipe in obvious wave form segments, the rpm rose slightly when you turned
the smoke valve on, and the exhaust port got cleaned up like new (almost
never been run)engine. That was a Rotax 277, and it never hurt it.
What the Red Barons were using was Corvis oil, which they told me
was used to oil down wooden pallets, and was normal for aircraft smoke
systems.(??)
Obviously it is different from MMO , but adding extra, nonstandard oil will
certainly produce odd results. (That's why they are called Experimental
Aircraft. The FAA ignores you while you conduct idiotic experiments...)
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: brs experience |
For what it's worth, I've ordered a safety flag/pin for my BRS about a month
ago and haven't received anything yet. Is BRS still in business?
GeoR38
masterdriver
of byGeorge
the
Firestar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Three phase regulator-rectifier |
Cottrell) writes:
<< I bought a three phase rectifier to give me some power in the Firestar
so I could run my GPS and some other things. I hooked it up as near as I
can tell as it said to do. Now I only get 6 volts out of it.I'm hoping
that I missed something obvious in the installation and that someone out
there will save me a lot of trouble and head scratching. >>
Hi Larry,
I have measured the output of the lighting coils and found them to go as high
as 75 volts at some high rpm (probably over 6000 rpm) which necessitates the
use of a regulator for devices which can tolerate 6 or 12 volts. I suspect
that if you are getting a similar voltage going into the regulator, the coils
are still OK but the regulator is jumpered wrong (6v or 12v jumper if
available) or the regulator is at fault.
good
luck!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
HI KOLB OWNERS
I AM TRYING TO ADD MORE FUEL SUPPLY TO MY M III IT WOULD BE NICE IF I
COULD PUT IT WHERE THE 2 - 5gal. TANKS ARE NOW BUT WITH OUT MOD. TO
THE STITTS .HAS ANYONE DONE THIS ! THAT HAS A M III . AT THE
PRESENT TIME I HAVE ADDED AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP THE SUC. WILL PULL
OUT OF A
TEMP.TANK THAT I WILL HAVE SITTING IN THE PASS. SEAT THEN DUMP INTO THE
MAIN TANKS DURING FLIGHT ,
AS THEY START TO GET NEAR THE BOTTOM . DO YOU THINK THAT THE VENT THAT IS
IN THE KOLB TANKS WILL BE LARGE ENOUGHT? OR SHOULD I MAKE THEM A
LITTLE LARGER? WHEN I COME OUT OF THE AUX. TANK I WILL GO TO A FILTER
THEN " Y " INTO THE MAINS
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>HI KOLB OWNERS
>
>I AM TRYING TO ADD MORE FUEL SUPPLY TO MY M III IT WOULD BE NICE IF I
>COULD PUT IT WHERE THE 2 - 5gal. TANKS ARE NOW BUT WITH OUT MOD. TO
>THE STITTS .HAS ANYONE DONE THIS ! THAT HAS A M III . AT THE
>PRESENT TIME I HAVE ADDED AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP THE SUC. WILL PULL
>OUT OF A
>TEMP.TANK THAT I WILL HAVE SITTING IN THE PASS. SEAT THEN DUMP INTO THE
>MAIN TANKS DURING FLIGHT ,
>AS THEY START TO GET NEAR THE BOTTOM . DO YOU THINK THAT THE VENT THAT IS
>IN THE KOLB TANKS WILL BE LARGE ENOUGHT? OR SHOULD I MAKE THEM A
>LITTLE LARGER? WHEN I COME OUT OF THE AUX. TANK I WILL GO TO A FILTER
> THEN " Y " INTO THE MAINS
>
> RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
>
>
> Am currently using two 6 gallon plastic outboard boat tanks, which
give 6 3/4 gallons each when set in at an angle. Took some rewelding of the
fuselage tank mounts to fit. If I had it to do over again I would have
ordered the 18 gallon fuel tank out of the Bass Pro catalog on page 330. It
measures 18 1/2" by 14" by 19 3/4" and comes with a fuel sender built in for
the gauge. The bad news is it will set you back $117.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine for FireFly |
For more info on Amw Inc. and Cuyuna Inc check out their web site
http://www.2si.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim JURENA <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
Originator:
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
Reply:
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Sun, 25 May 97 05:35:34 cst
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: BRS hassle
Solution:
Form letter posted to KOLB LIST for people
to : - edit, e-mail (to what address?)
- edit, print & fax(what fax ph#?)
OR call to keep them busy,(ph#?)
It is easy to ignore a fax,
it's easy to delete an e-mail.
We could keep all their people busy
answering phones until they realize there
is no profit margin in running a customer
complaint center, while they are detracted
from making their product.!!!
Shall We???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | (by way of Jim JURENA <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov>) |
| Subject: | A moving experience, surf here please. |
Subject: Moo!
Ahem, I mean... Move! , please?
Just click on this while reading e-mail,
and it should lanch your browser(not yet running).
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/1997/cows1.html
Scroll forward ("Next" as a link, under photos),
also look at other photo lists. Nice build info,too!
Congrats to Mr. Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | (by way of The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov>) |
| Subject: | Not a KOLB pilot yet........ |
O.K. ,gfoxfly(at)aol.com:
I've spent months on the net searching for
something in my price range that would be an
acceptable choice for my toy, ahem....... I mean
wife and myself to enjoy taking turns flying.
Yours specs are the first I have seen for
any type of Ultralight/Kitplane/Powered Para....
to list NOISE LEVEL. I am EXTREMELY concerned
with this aspect as I live in a small town and
plan to use the Para as a billboard to advertise
my business. I do not want to get any noses(ears?)
out of joint. My BUDGET remains my first concern.
I went from a BUDGET (DREAM) OF $15,000 for a
BASS BOAT and as it was scaled down more & more
to a realistic figure, a jon boat fit my idea of
bang for the buck. Yet it could only hold two
people @ $400. NOT a FAMILY VEHICLE. Hunting for
me and the unlucky deer, yes. Mommy&2 small kids?
Sorry. Back up to $600 to $800=canoe/kayak.
Solution? E&B DISCOUNT MARINE in Lanham, MD.
Selection? A window shoppers dream come true.
SEVYLOR INFLATABLE SUPER CARAVELLE 4-MAN BOAT,
SEA KAYAK PADDLE for Daddy, extra oars(spares),
foot pump, life jackets all round etc,etc,etc...
ALL FOR $155, YES,ONE HUNDRED-FIFTY-FIVE BUCKS.
BACK TO:Powered Parachutes. I had not the time
or money or space to build a 3-axis Ultralight,
nor the slightest chance my wife could possibly
allow me to convince her she could learn to fly
one as well. We had, however, in Bermuda, sat
in a Loveseat configuration Parasail ,launched &
towed from a powerboat.
We were in absolute heaven in the sky.
If I can get the idea of foot power as a mode
of takeoff and landing (as opposed to trike/chair)
past my wife's BAD KNEE, then we might be able to
do business.
The place in Washington state had very similar
equipment, (WHISPER/FRESH BREEZE,etc.) and the
engines were the same. What I do not have is
YOUR Price Information with which to make an
informed decision. Please e-mail or call.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | (by way of Jim JURENA <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov>) (by way of The PROBE |
)
| Subject: | Web page medic needed |
I found you while looking at my
mail from the KOLB users list.
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 01:28:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Engine for FireFly
For more info on Amw Inc. and Cuyuna Inc check out their web site
http://www.2si.com/
I found your information very interesting. Is it
possible , I thought, to do my own powered parachute?
The engines I've heard of in use are ROTAX for most
trike/seated applications and the backpack/footlaunch
are less familiar to me as to origon of manufacture.
Those names include: Zenoah, Solo210 etc.......
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Recently, I read in the Kolb newsletter about a flight into Leadville,
CO., where a 377 Firestar climbed to 15,000 ASL. The pilot indicated
that the plane could have gone higher. That made me wonder how high my
377 Firestar would go. Last week I gave it a try. At 17,000 I gave up
because I had no oxygen supply along. I was still climbing at 250 feet
per minute. So that brings me to my question.... How high do Firestars
go? There must be somebody that either owns or borrowed an oxygen
supply to find out.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas G. Rampton" <tgr(at)rmi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Max altitude? |
>Recently, I read in the Kolb newsletter about a flight into Leadville,
>CO., where a 377 Firestar climbed to 15,000 ASL. The pilot indicated
>that the plane could have gone higher. That made me wonder how high my
>377 Firestar would go. Last week I gave it a try. At 17,000 I gave up
>because I had no oxygen supply along. I was still climbing at 250 feet
>per minute. So that brings me to my question.... How high do Firestars
>go? There must be somebody that either owns or borrowed an oxygen
>supply to find out.
>John
Glad to hear it.
I live about 45 miles south of Leadville, CO. I'm building a Firestar that
I'll put a 503 on, unless by that time a Wankel engine becomes available.
Note that positive control airspace begins at 18,000 feet and the FARs
require oxygen above 14,500 feet. But how high do you need to go?
I'm more interested in knowing I can get off the ground and climb up here.
Looks like that shouldn't be a problem, though a hot day here or at
Leadville would get my attention.
Tom http://rmi.net/~tgr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aventure Paramotors. |
Did you send an email recently requesting price info on Adventure
Paramotors?. If so please email me at Gfoxfly(at)aol.com
Thank You.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Shamblin <shamblin(at)hc1.hci.net> |
what do people think about hand deployed parachutes? they seem much less
expensive even if somewhat less useful. is it true that one could usually
activate a hand deployed chute above 500 feet?. bill shamblin
On Sun, 25 May 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> Hi Russ,
>
> Can't believe it but yet I do.
>
> Since they no longer have any competition I suspected their business
> practices were going to change. I became more concerned when they got
> the second NASA grant and started working with the bigger GA
> airplanes. It has to distract them from the UL market. Myself I
> don't see much effort beyond the term of the grant funding for the
> small aircraft market. There's just not going to be enough demand in
> that class airframe to survive on.
>
> The reason the UL market is there is because of the weight limitation
> and the early weak airframes some UL's had which created the demand.
> Most of those have been weeded out. In the mean time their going to
> take advantage of the grant money line their pocket books while
> upgrading their facility, equipment, and manpower expertise. In the
> same situation I would do the same thing but I don't think I would get
> as greedy.
>
> I stopped by their booth at S&F. I mentioned to them I had read they
> intended to increase their prices. I expressed to them I thought they
> were starting to get out of hand. Any further price increases would
> result in my having to reconsider purchasing a unit. "I stated their
> fire extinguisher was getting a little pricey." Their arrogant come
> back was to effect that your buy it for when you need it. This puts
> it into a risk/cost assessment which forces me look at other ways to
> reduce risk since a chute doesn't fix everything.
>
> I never flown with one yet today and intend to do what is reasonable
> to prevent requiring one in the first place. By flying a time proven
> design, I reduce the probability of requiring one. Sure there will
> always be some risk but I assume that when I get into any airplane,
> whether it be a GA or the airliner I flew in to get there. A chute
> reduces some risk but does not eliminate them all. There's no
> guarantee they'll even work should the time come you need it.
> Presently I am more concerned with the hours and flights I am logging
> on airliners.
>
> My worst fear is in a pusher configuration like the Kolb. If
> something should go through the prop and create an unbalanced
> situation causing the engine to separate from the airframe. There's
> been a couple cases where the parachute created a problem when the
> harness itself came loose, got into the prop tearing the engine loose.
> In those cases it proved detrimental to even have one.
>
> If your ever jumped a parachute especially the old style military
> canopy like they use (I have), you'll find the landing typically is
> bone jarring. The rate of decent is much faster than you think it is.
> You may survive but likely your plane is going to be bent and your
> going to be taking an inventory of your parts to determine which are
> still working.
>
> The solution simply may be a couple of safety cables to keep the
> engine attached to the airframe and maintain the CG. Far less
> expensive than their chute. Other than that, and making sure before
> each flight that all the pins and clips for the wings, struts, and
> horizontal tail surfaces are in place, I don't see a problem flying a
> Kolb with out one. Yep, a couple good cables is a heck of a lot
> cheaper.
>
> You talked me into it. I going with the cables. I going to fax them
> a letter this week to that effect. Anybody else up to it. Only if
> they get hit with a number of letters over a short period of a week or
> two will it get their attention. Remaining silent you automatically
> lose, just open your wallet.
>
> Jerry Bidle
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: BRS hassle
> Author: "Russell Duffy" at MAILGATE
> Date: 5/24/97 2:34 PM
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> Has anyone else had trouble dealing with BRS? I've placed 2 orders for chutes
> for the SlingShot, and don't have anything to show for it.
>
> I originally ordered a 900# canister back in January for $1895, but after 2
> months BRS still hadn't done anything with it. They claim that the SlingShot
> mounting won't be the same as the FireStar despite the fact that Dennis told
> them it would be (correct me if I'm wrong Dennis), and the fact that the
> factory SS had one installed at the time. Apparently, BRS thinks they know the
> Kolb designs better than Dennis does. After getting totally pissed at BRS, I
> canceled the order.
>
> About a week ago, I found out that BRS just had the mother of all price
> increases of $300. I called them to see if they would sell me one at the old
> price since THEY were the ones that couldn't deliver before, but that was a
> total waste of time. Next I called around and found that Spruce had an
> abnormally low price on the 750# canister of $1700. This is really all I need
> for my purposes so I placed the order. Later that day, I got a message from
> Spruce saying that BRS wouldn't allow them to place an order for a 750# chute
> for a SlingShot. Also, they said the canister mount wasn't available for the
> SS.
>
> Yet another angry call to BRS to find out that they have a policy which won't
> allow them to sell a chute smaller than the specs from the Kit manufacturer
> suggest. Also, they recommend the VLS model of chute for the SS, even though
> the mounting for it isn't approved either. I specifically don't want the VLS
> because it's more expensive, has a shorter repack time of 4 years rather than
6
> for the canister, and isn't as well proven. Thursday, they were supposed to
> be asking one of the owners if they could sell me a canister model in either
> the 750 or 900# size. Friday I didn't receive the message they promised so I
> left them another message. I doubt they'll ever call back.
>
> It looks like my only options are to do without a chute (which gets
> more appealing with every call to BRS), or place an order for the 750 or 900
> canister by listing the plane as a FireStar rather than a SlingShot (and hope
> they don't recognize my name). It just shouldn't be this difficult. Why do
I
> have to beg them to sell me a chute? Don't know what I'll do.
>
> OK, I'm all better now :-) Thanks for listening.
>
>
> Russell Duffy
> SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
> rad(at)pen.net
> http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim JURENA <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov> (by way of The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov>) |
Originator:
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
Reply:
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Sun, 25 May 97 05:35:34 cst
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: BRS hassle
Solution:
Form letter posted to KOLB LIST for people
to : - edit, e-mail (to what address?)
- edit, print & fax(what fax ph#?)
OR call to keep them busy,(ph#?)
It is easy to ignore a fax,
it's easy to delete an e-mail.
We could keep all their people busy
answering phones until they realize there
is no profit margin in running a customer
complaint center, while they are detracted
from making their product.!!!
Shall We???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine for FireFly |
On Sat, 24 May 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> Looking at the 2Si 35-40 HP. What's the story.
Jerry, here's my $.02 on some of your engine questions.
> 1.) How do they compare to the Rotax's.
> 4.) Are they reliable?
Before Rotax, Cuyuna was regarded as very reliable. Cuyuna simply
dropped out of the business. From my little experience with Rotax (120
hrs), and from listening to others for 6 years, it is my HO that 95% of
the reliability (or lack there-of) in Cuyuna, Rotax, or Hirth is simply
related to how well the owner takes care of the engine. Care mostly
means running at proper jetting and really truely doing the scheduled
maintenance. There is so much variability in owner care, it is nearly
impossible to characterize one vendor as more reliable than the other.
> 5.) How do they compare on weight/HP with Rotax?
> 6.) Do they put out their claimed HP as compared to Rotax?
I've never ever seen any dispute w/ published numbers from any of the 3
vendors you mentioned. Be careful you get the all-up weight (gearbox,
carb[s], exhaust, starter) from any engine you compare. Way back i
had trouble getting the real all-up weight on a Hirth --- too few out
there to find a comparable configuration to make finding this info easy.
> 7.) Are they as seizure sensitive as the Rotax seems to be?
Emphasis on my reply to 1,4 above. Engines don't seize
engines, people do. (That's as close as i get to the NRA. :-) )
> 9.) How is fuel consumption compared to a Rotax of equivalent HP?
All the 2-strokes will be about the same (fuel/HP). However, you will
find slightly different fuel or HP per engine weight when you look at
a Hirth, and really different torque per engine weight. I think the
Rotax 447 is plenty of power for a Firefly or Firestar single place,
so a 2 cyl Hirth is probably rediculous, and a 35+ hp Cuyuna just fine.
Good luck.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I bought an EIS back in December and the original chute purchase attempt was
placed through Greg at EIS. You're correct about the great prices
w/purchase.
For some odd reason though, Spruce now has the 750# chute for $1700 where EIS
is currently at $1845. This trend doesn't hold true for the 900# unit
though.
Spruce is $2340 and EIS is $2195. Go figure. Unfortunately, BRS has nothing
"approved" for sale for the SlingShot.
You Wrote
Another BRS question. If I do lie to them and say I have a FireStar, I
assume
any hope of "registering" my installation is pretty much out the window.
Just
what kind of warranty would I be missing out on if that's the case?
In better news, I just covered the bottom of the cage and installed the rear
fairing. I hope to have the rest of the cage covered by the end of the long
weekend.
You mention registering the chute with BRS well I had a problem installing
mine on the firestar 2. The mounting bracket was in the way of the oil
injection pumb and according to BRS, I was the first to encounter this. I
guess I was the first to use a BRS and the oil injection. Well anyways BRS
was also great to deal with on the phone, the sent me different brackets and
i modified the hookup by shimming the unit. i sent photos to them and they
said that with my photos they would modify the mounting pieces and
instructions for future buyers. Basically I had to move the unit forward, and
then it hit a tube that is part of the frame. I uses about 8 washers to make
a bushing/shim and shimmed the unit up. It works ok and BRS said its just
fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I bought an EIS back in December and the original chute purchase attempt was
placed through Greg at EIS. You're correct about the great prices
w/purchase.
For some odd reason though, Spruce now has the 750# chute for $1700 where EIS
is currently at $1845. This trend doesn't hold true for the 900# unit
though.
Spruce is $2340 and EIS is $2195. Go figure. Unfortunately, BRS has nothing
"approved" for sale for the SlingShot.
You Wrote
Another BRS question. If I do lie to them and say I have a FireStar, I
assume
any hope of "registering" my installation is pretty much out the window.
Just
what kind of warranty would I be missing out on if that's the case?
In better news, I just covered the bottom of the cage and installed the rear
fairing. I hope to have the rest of the cage covered by the end of the long
weekend.
You mention registering the chute with BRS well I had a problem installing
mine on the firestar 2. The mounting bracket was in the way of the oil
injection pumb and according to BRS, I was the first to encounter this. I
guess I was the first to use a BRS and the oil injection. Well anyways BRS
was also great to deal with on the phone, the sent me different brackets and
i modified the hookup by shimming the unit. i sent photos to them and they
said that with my photos they would modify the mounting pieces and
instructions for future buyers. Basically I had to move the unit forward, and
then it hit a tube that is part of the frame. I uses about 8 washers to make
a bushing/shim and shimmed the unit up. It works ok and BRS said its just
fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Olendorf(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ultracom helmet/headset |
I need some help. I bought a UltraCom helmet/headset and a Delcom radio. I
thought that the $89 patch cord was way too much so I decided to make my own.
I cabled it up with a push to talk switch and everything seams to work fine
except I have to talk really loud or blow into the mic for someone to hear
me. So I broke down and bought the $45 pre-amp that CPS says you need and I
wired that between the radio and the headset connector and it is exactly the
same way. I hate to have to spend another $89.00 if it is just a wiring
error.
Scott Olendorf
Schenectady, NY USA
OLENDORF(at)AOL.COM
1989 Kolb Firestar, Rotax 377
"It's now safe to turn off your computer"
Microsoft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine for FireFly |
I have flown a Cayunna on my pteradactyl years ago and a 447 Rotax on my
Firestar for 200 hrs and I must agree with ransom, It appears to be more of a
people thing than an engine thing when comparing reliability. I was always
amazed that you could run the Cayunna to the firewall for long climbouts and
am now just as amazed that I can do the same thing with the Rotax. I did have
a seizure with the Cayunna once when I put on an unauthorized muffler (one
which almost everyone used because it was said that 5 extra HP were available
with it). The seizure kind of proved that I did get 5 more HP out of it, for
just a little too long.!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi,
I got a call from BRS today. They apparently called Dennis and he was finally
able to convince them that the SS mounts just the same as the FS. BRS even
agreed to sell me the 900# chute at the price I originally ordered it for in
January. I'll re-order tomorrow.
Thanks all,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi
I always thought the cable for the ultra-com was a bit expensive too BUT it
is more than a cable and I am afraid that the preamp in the connection
needs to be mated to the circuits in the intercom. By the way the cable
from ultra-com does work very well after you get over the sticker shock.
You are getting what you pay for.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS resolution |
On Wed, 28 May 1997, Russell Duffy wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I got a call from BRS today. They apparently called Dennis and he was finally
> able to convince them that the SS mounts just the same as the FS. BRS even
> agreed to sell me the 900# chute at the price I originally ordered it for in
> January. I'll re-order tomorrow.
>
Congratulations, i think :-). Hey, i guess this list server really does
provide us some clout! Thanks to all.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "friend" <friend(at)mail.bright.net> |
Hi
My 3 blade IVO is not tracking,I called IVO he said
bend the blade. Is he right??????
Duane Z FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tracking IVO |
>Hi
> My 3 blade IVO is not tracking,I called IVO he said
>bend the blade. Is he right??????
> Duane Z FS2
>
>
First make sure all three blades are at the same pitch. It is not
unusual for the Ivo cam/rod/twisting function to be less than perfect. If one
blade is pitched notably more or less than the others, it will not track
with them because it's load will be different. In the march 97 Kolb
archives, I had a discription of making/using a bubble level to check Ivo
blades. For the benefit of all that are new to this BBS, the archives are at
http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/
I suggest that everyone using an Ivo, check your blades against each
other for tip angle. It works better when they are all the same, and so far,
in our local surveying, some are close, none are perfect. Think shim stock...
If they are all the same pitch, grit your teeth, grab the blade...
Richard Pike
Technical counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | FSII: speeds&temps on 1st flight |
Finally the wind was calm enough to try a flight longer than 1 minute on
my newly-tested FSII. I have and IVO 2-blade and a 503. Set up for one
person. Carrying about 7 gals fuel.
After finding that the EGT was running upto 1200deg, I increased the
pitch. Takeoff rpm just touches 6000, but the egt remains cool during
climbout, which is astonishing fast. Was getting upwards of 1100ft/minute
at about 70mph. I just couldn't stand pitching it up more! Cruises quietly
with level flight aat about 4500rpm. Temps for cht and egt stay in the
mid-range. On descent, cutting back to 3800, am getting egt temps which
touch 1160. I assume that I have pitched the blade too steeply.
A couple of comments. Put an inclinometer in (from AeroWag, $40) to use
as
a slip/skid indicator. Maybe it's because I fly a Citabria, but it seemed
nearly impossible to do uncoordinated turns. (But you got to lower the
nose, since IAS bleed off so fast.)
I seem to be able to fly hands off, except that the power want to
pitch it up. Am thinking about putting some ballast in the nose. Any
suggestions?
Landing is astonishingly easy. Just a simple wheel landing, though
the nose keeps wanting to come up, the plane keeps wanting to fly (which
is apparently what pushers do when power is cut.) I have the job of a
3500' grass field. Life is good.
I'm not getting any adverse yaw, though the control forces are so
light that I may be holding without thinking. Hardly seems worth the
effort to install trim tabs.
Got some hangar rash (jeez, already...) A small cut in the
fusillage fabric. Any lazy man suggestions?
The brakes work OK, but despite my having backed off the mounting
screws, they still drag. Brakes are mostly useful for making ground turns,
not stopping.
Questions: I guess I shoudl decrease pitch, hoping that my 4000rpm
descents will cool down? Suggest topping the tank after each flight, to
cut down on water (since there are no drains). Does anyone sump the tanks?
What is the recommended warmup temps. How long, upto what temps should I
let it get to before firewalling it?
Man, that plane really wants to fly, I've got to coax it down,
slipping appears to be pointless, though it is a better view from the
side. Am using a MC helmet and earplugs. Makes the flying very pleasant.
Suggestions for ballast?
Am driving the EIS with an alarm battery (gel cel). Really nice
unit, though I do miss a sensitive altimeter. Rate of climb/descent is
best judged by the pitch/whine. Am able to pay attention outside,
something I suppose like a glider.
Finally, speaking of glider, any suggestions practicing engine out
landings?
thanks, folks....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FSII: speeds&temps on 1st flight |
>Finally the wind was calm enough to try a flight longer than 1 minute on
>my newly-tested FSII. I have and IVO 2-blade and a 503. Set up for one
>person. Carrying about 7 gals fuel.
>
>After finding that the EGT was running upto 1200deg, I increased the
>pitch. Takeoff rpm just touches 6000, but the egt remains cool during
>climbout, which is astonishing fast. Was getting upwards of 1100ft/minute
>at about 70mph. I just couldn't stand pitching it up more! Cruises quietly
>with level flight aat about 4500rpm. Temps for cht and egt stay in the
>mid-range. On descent, cutting back to 3800, am getting egt temps which
>touch 1160. I assume that I have pitched the blade too steeply.
> A couple of comments. Put an inclinometer in (from AeroWag, $40) to use
as
>a slip/skid indicator. Maybe it's because I fly a Citabria, but it seemed
>nearly impossible to do uncoordinated turns. (But you got to lower the
>nose, since IAS bleed off so fast.)
> I seem to be able to fly hands off, except that the power want to
>pitch it up. Am thinking about putting some ballast in the nose. Any
>suggestions?
> Landing is astonishingly easy. Just a simple wheel landing, though
>the nose keeps wanting to come up, the plane keeps wanting to fly (which
>is apparently what pushers do when power is cut.) I have the job of a
>3500' grass field. Life is good.
> I'm not getting any adverse yaw, though the control forces are so
>light that I may be holding without thinking. Hardly seems worth the
>effort to install trim tabs.
> Got some hangar rash (jeez, already...) A small cut in the
>fusillage fabric. Any lazy man suggestions?
> The brakes work OK, but despite my having backed off the mounting
>screws, they still drag. Brakes are mostly useful for making ground turns,
>not stopping.
> Questions: I guess I shoudl decrease pitch, hoping that my 4000rpm
>descents will cool down? Suggest topping the tank after each flight, to
>cut down on water (since there are no drains). Does anyone sump the tanks?
>What is the recommended warmup temps. How long, upto what temps should I
>let it get to before firewalling it?
> Man, that plane really wants to fly, I've got to coax it down,
>slipping appears to be pointless, though it is a better view from the
>side. Am using a MC helmet and earplugs. Makes the flying very pleasant.
> Suggestions for ballast?
> Am driving the EIS with an alarm battery (gel cel). Really nice
>unit, though I do miss a sensitive altimeter. Rate of climb/descent is
>best judged by the pitch/whine. Am able to pay attention outside,
>something I suppose like a glider.
> Finally, speaking of glider, any suggestions practicing engine out
>landings?
>thanks, folks....
>
>
>
> Two suggestions: Before adding nose ballast, try cranking your
ailerons down one turn with the rod end pivot. Raising the ailerons up
lightens the nose, drooping the ailerons makes it heavier. (Ailerons up,
center of lift moves forward, airplane "thinks" it is tailheavy, drooping
ailerons moves center of lift rearward, airplane "thinks" it is noseheavy).
#2: At what airspeed does 3800 rpm in descent give too high egt? Any
two-stroke will give high egt's at partial power in high speed descents because
you are pushing the engine into an artificially lean condition. Think about
it: partial throttle is only allowing a little gas in, but unloaded prop
pushed several hundred rpm past what it would be turning under load gives
excess air, and that is the definition of a lean mixture. Check your cht. If
it is low, and the egt is high, the engine is doing no work, so it is an
overspeed lean. Solution: retard the throttle some more, or raise the nose
and slow down. I think I would leave the prop pitch alone. Based on the rest
of your discription of how it flys, you have that part nailed.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FAA Inspection complete |
My Firestar 2, N6246L passed the FAA inspection tonight. I feel great because
they had nothing but compliments to say about my plane and building. It's
kind a nice to get that kind of response from the FAA.
The only thing he said was that he would paint the flange from the gearbox
that the prop attaches to. I have the Ivoprop and with the aluminum spacer
against the steel flange he suggested making a gasket to avoid any possible
electrolis corrosion between the two. Down here in Louisiana being so humid
the steel has formed surface rust from just sitting on the plane in the
hanger.
Hope the weather tomorrow is good, wanna fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
During taxi testing tonight my Mark III jumped off the ground for the 1st time.
I broke ground and broke wind all at the same time.
What a feeling....... breaking ground that is.
I have one question regarding my Rotax 582.
My idle RPM is around 2100 but on a couple of ocassions the RPM's have
dropped to 1700 or 1800 causing the engine to run rough and even stall out.
Does anyone have any idea what would cause the RPM's to drop unexpectedly
below normal?
This seems to happen only after I have run the engine for a good while.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ultracom helmet/headset |
Guys,
I need to check into this but I recall a conversation with a friend
that repairs head sets as a business about head set problem with a
particular hand held. Seems like I recall him saying that one of the
hand held radios had the head set leads reversed, and am trying to
recall which unit it was, a ICom or the Delcom comes to mind.
Seems like the story went something like this. They sell you an
external box unit that was represented as some form of converter
preamp/impedance matching device for headset applications. Someone
else had same problem and when he got into it he had found they has
built the radio with the leads swapped.
The end was it has caused a lot of people problems. He had figured
out what they had done it was a simple fix. I can't remember but
seems like when he was done it didn't require the external device at
all.
Don't do any lead swapping based upon this message until I can verify
it. Since he's not on email and I am not at home I need to go through
another friend to get his phone number. This may take a few days.
Don't hold up, go ahead and work the problem, just assume for now I
don't know what I am talking about, for that may well be the case.
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Ultracom helmet/headset
Date: 5/27/97 8:08 PM
I need some help. I bought a UltraCom helmet/headset and a Delcom radio. I
thought that the $89 patch cord was way too much so I decided to make my own.
I cabled it up with a push to talk switch and everything seams to work fine
except I have to talk really loud or blow into the mic for someone to hear
me. So I broke down and bought the $45 pre-amp that CPS says you need and I
wired that between the radio and the headset connector and it is exactly the
same way. I hate to have to spend another $89.00 if it is just a wiring
error.
Scott Olendorf
Schenectady, NY USA
OLENDORF(at)AOL.COM
1989 Kolb Firestar, Rotax 377
"It's now safe to turn off your computer"
Microsoft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FSII: speeds&temps on 1st flight |
I'll try raising the ailerons, and the airspeed was pretty darn high,
about 80, during descent. However, if I'm only getting 5900-6000rpm on
takeoff, isn't that a little low? Many thanks for your advice.
On Wed, 28 May 1997, richard pike wrote:
> >Finally the wind was calm enough to try a flight longer than 1 minute on
> >my newly-tested FSII. I have and IVO 2-blade and a 503. Set up for one
> >person. Carrying about 7 gals fuel.
> >
> >After finding that the EGT was running upto 1200deg, I increased the
> >pitch. Takeoff rpm just touches 6000, but the egt remains cool during
> >climbout, which is astonishing fast. Was getting upwards of 1100ft/minute
> >at about 70mph. I just couldn't stand pitching it up more! Cruises quietly
> >with level flight aat about 4500rpm. Temps for cht and egt stay in the
> >mid-range. On descent, cutting back to 3800, am getting egt temps which
> >touch 1160. I assume that I have pitched the blade too steeply.
> > A couple of comments. Put an inclinometer in (from AeroWag, $40) to
use as
> >a slip/skid indicator. Maybe it's because I fly a Citabria, but it seemed
> >nearly impossible to do uncoordinated turns. (But you got to lower the
> >nose, since IAS bleed off so fast.)
> > I seem to be able to fly hands off, except that the power want to
> >pitch it up. Am thinking about putting some ballast in the nose. Any
> >suggestions?
> > Landing is astonishingly easy. Just a simple wheel landing, though
> >the nose keeps wanting to come up, the plane keeps wanting to fly (which
> >is apparently what pushers do when power is cut.) I have the job of a
> >3500' grass field. Life is good.
> > I'm not getting any adverse yaw, though the control forces are so
> >light that I may be holding without thinking. Hardly seems worth the
> >effort to install trim tabs.
> > Got some hangar rash (jeez, already...) A small cut in the
> >fusillage fabric. Any lazy man suggestions?
> > The brakes work OK, but despite my having backed off the mounting
> >screws, they still drag. Brakes are mostly useful for making ground turns,
> >not stopping.
> > Questions: I guess I shoudl decrease pitch, hoping that my 4000rpm
> >descents will cool down? Suggest topping the tank after each flight, to
> >cut down on water (since there are no drains). Does anyone sump the tanks?
> >What is the recommended warmup temps. How long, upto what temps should I
> >let it get to before firewalling it?
> > Man, that plane really wants to fly, I've got to coax it down,
> >slipping appears to be pointless, though it is a better view from the
> >side. Am using a MC helmet and earplugs. Makes the flying very pleasant.
> > Suggestions for ballast?
> > Am driving the EIS with an alarm battery (gel cel). Really nice
> >unit, though I do miss a sensitive altimeter. Rate of climb/descent is
> >best judged by the pitch/whine. Am able to pay attention outside,
> >something I suppose like a glider.
> > Finally, speaking of glider, any suggestions practicing engine out
> >landings?
> >thanks, folks....
> >
> >
> >
> > Two suggestions: Before adding nose ballast, try cranking your
> ailerons down one turn with the rod end pivot. Raising the ailerons up
> lightens the nose, drooping the ailerons makes it heavier. (Ailerons up,
> center of lift moves forward, airplane "thinks" it is tailheavy, drooping
> ailerons moves center of lift rearward, airplane "thinks" it is noseheavy).
> #2: At what airspeed does 3800 rpm in descent give too high egt? Any
> two-stroke will give high egt's at partial power in high speed descents because
> you are pushing the engine into an artificially lean condition. Think about
> it: partial throttle is only allowing a little gas in, but unloaded prop
> pushed several hundred rpm past what it would be turning under load gives
> excess air, and that is the definition of a lean mixture. Check your cht. If
> it is low, and the egt is high, the engine is doing no work, so it is an
> overspeed lean. Solution: retard the throttle some more, or raise the nose
> and slow down. I think I would leave the prop pitch alone. Based on the rest
> of your discription of how it flys, you have that part nailed.
> Richard Pike
> Technical Counselor EAA 442
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cpeterhu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FSII: speeds&temps on 1st flight |
Hello everybody. Love this newsletter. Hoping to start a Firefly. Does anyone
have any experience with PROLONG/ the new miracle additive? Just can't
believe it.
Thanks. cpeterhu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: engine idle (was 1st crow hop) |
B
B
B
B
On Wed, 28 May 1997, Doug Prange wrote:
> I have one question regarding my Rotax 582.
>
> My idle RPM is around 2100 but on a couple of ocassions the RPM's have
> dropped to 1700 or 1800 causing the engine to run rough and even stall out.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what would cause the RPM's to drop unexpectedly
> below normal?
>
> This seems to happen only after I have run the engine for a good while.
>
I had the same problem early on with my Rotax 447. Although it is quite
different from a 582, here's what I found. The problem was that I had
put the plastic block in the Bing carb barrel on the wrong side of the
needle valve circlip. The only other symptom I had was terrible fuel
consumption and maybe some rpm hunting at about cruise rpm. (Plugs
and temps were fine.)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tracking IVO |
If you want to see a couple of pictures on Richard Pike's bubble level check
out my web page at:
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index2.html
Type to you later
Will Uribe
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
<< I had a discription of making/using a bubble level to check Ivo
blades. For the benefit of all that are new to this BBS, the archives are at
http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/
I suggest that everyone using an Ivo, check your blades against each
other for tip angle. It works better when they are all the same, and so far,
in our local surveying, some are close, none are perfect. Think shim
stock...
If they are all the same pitch, grit your teeth, grab the blade...
Richard Pike
Technical counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FSII: speeds&temps on 1st flight |
On Thu, 29 May 1997, Bruce Schimmel wrote:
> I'll try raising the ailerons, and the airspeed was pretty darn high,
> about 80, during descent. However, if I'm only getting 5900-6000rpm on
> takeoff, isn't that a little low? Many thanks for your advice.
RPike> > > Two suggestions: Before adding nose ballast, try cranking your
RPike> > ailerons down one turn with the rod end pivot. Raising the ailerons up
RPike> > lightens the nose, drooping the ailerons makes it heavier. (Ailerons up,
RPike> > center of lift moves forward, airplane "thinks" it is tailheavy, drooping
RPike> > ailerons moves center of lift rearward, airplane "thinks" it is noseheavy).
OK, now this is getting confusing. Richard suggests lowering the ailerons,
which makes sense to me, and you say you will raise them? Another big
question: Are you positive your CG is good? Obviously, this should be
the primary definition of whether you need to add ballast. (I've only
seen one other 503 powered FSII up close and personal, and he needed to
add nose ballast.)
On the engine rpm issue, I think 6000 on climbout is low, especially if
you are really at 70 mph. At this airspeed you should be running close
to max rpm. And for temps, I personally wouldn't worry about getting
upto 1200 EGT for short periods on mid-rpm decents. After all, 1200 is
the max, you are under that, and the engine is not working hard.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randy(at)fcs.net (Randy Fischer) |
| Subject: | Please remove dirksen(at)fcs.net |
Please remove dirksen(at)fcs.net from your mailing list. This person is no
longer has a FCS mail account...
Thank you
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
| Subject: | Ultratec horses missing |
While reading the May '97 issue of UL-flying I became very interested
in the article about this new 4-stroke Ultratec-60 or 80hp engine build
by Motavia Lmtd.
I wanted this engine to eventually replace the Rotax 582 currently on
my MARK-III (on LOTUS floats) which can use the 80 hp performance (even
with the modest increase in weight--15 lbs heavier), in addition to
4-stroke reliability and fuel injection at much lower cost compared to
a Rotax 912.
I requested and received the published performance specs on the
Ultratec-80HP engine.
The spec.sheet claimes an 80 HP performance at 6500 rpm.
Checking this with the std hpX5250=torqueXrpm formula, to produce 80 hp
at 6500rpm requires 64.4 ftlbs of torque (at 6500 rpm). Their data
specifies a max. torque of 58 ftlbs at 5500 rpm and declining with
increasing rpm (as shown on torque curve). Even using Ultratec's value
of 58 ftlbs torque flat out to 6500 rpm, it would only produce 72 hp.
Doublechecking the numbers with the Ultratec80 data given in the metric
system gave similar results. (60 KW @6500 rpm; Max torque 80 Nm @5500
rpm claimed) produces only 54.4 KW @ 6500rpm with flat torque
performance.
So no typo's or translation errors there.
The 80 hp Rotax 912 torque curve (CPS catalog) shows 75 ftlbs at 5500
rpm so it is likely that the Rotax claim of producing 80 hp (requiring
70 ftlbs torque) at 6000 rpm value is correct.
If Motavia's numbers are correct, the Ultratec-80 engine is only a
modest 70 hp by comparison.
I contacted the US dealer and the British manufacturer by E-mail with
the same concerns several weeks ago but except for a reply from the US
dealer to be patient, "they were busy building engines", I have not
heard anything from them.
So my question to you horsepower gurus is: Where could these 10 missing
Ultratec horses be hiding?
The Ultratec80 engine (complete with all accessories) is priced at
$7395 (less $500 if you order immediately), compared to around $9000
for a Rotax 912.
One other point regarding the spec. sheet: Fuel usage was stated as an
unspecified 6L/hr (1.6 Gall/hr), and when I requested clarification,
received the answer that this is at 50% powersetting. This
powersetting I use only during flair-out and landing my floatplane. Is
there anybody that can maintain airspeed and altitude at that setting
(unless over-powered!)?
Frank Reynen (BSME) Mark-III @380 hrs (:-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FSII: speeds&temps on 1st flight |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> On Thu, 29 May 1997, Bruce Schimmel wrote:
> > I'll try raising the ailerons, and the airspeed was pretty darn high,
> > about 80, during descent. However, if I'm only getting 5900-6000rpm on
> > takeoff, isn't that a little low? Many thanks for your advice.
>
> RPike> > > Two suggestions: Before adding nose ballast, try cranking your
> RPike> > ailerons down one turn with the rod end pivot. Raising the ailerons
up
> RPike> > lightens the nose, drooping the ailerons makes it heavier. (Ailerons
up,
> RPike> > center of lift moves forward, airplane "thinks" it is tailheavy, drooping
> RPike> > ailerons moves center of lift rearward, airplane "thinks" it is noseheavy).
>
> OK, now this is getting confusing. Richard suggests lowering the ailerons,
> which makes sense to me, and you say you will raise them? Another big
> question: Are you positive your CG is good? Obviously, this should be
> the primary definition of whether you need to add ballast. (I've only
> seen one other 503 powered FSII up close and personal, and he needed to
> add nose ballast.)
>
> On the engine rpm issue, I think 6000 on climbout is low, especially if
> you are really at 70 mph. At this airspeed you should be running close
> to max rpm. And for temps, I personally wouldn't worry about getting
> upto 1200 EGT for short periods on mid-rpm decents. After all, 1200 is
> the max, you are under that, and the engine is not working hard.
>
> -Ben RansomYou guys are confusing me just a bit. I have a 447 and a firestar
II, I
have been having trouble with my midrange temps running almost right on
1200. I got the high speed temps down by changing jets until I found the
right one. I finally had to get a 15e5u ( had a 15k? standard) Now the
temps are just fine all through the range of speeds. In a earlier request
for help in setting a IVO prop, I was told to set the pitch on the prop
to 6350 static. I did so and it gives me about 6600 on climb out. Being
new at this I would assume that you would want to set your rpms and then
sdjust the carb jets to give you the temps that you need?
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | (by way of Jim Jurena <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov>) |
Originator:
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
Reply:
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Sun, 25 May 97 05:35:34 cst
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: BRS hassle
Solution:
Form letter posted to KOLB LIST for people
to : - edit, e-mail (to what address?)
- edit, print & fax(what fax ph#?)
OR call to keep them busy,(ph#?)
It is easy to ignore a fax,
it's easy to delete an e-mail.
We could keep all their people busy
answering phones until they realize there
is no profit margin in running a customer
complaint center, while they are detracted
from making their product.!!!
Shall We???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
| Subject: | Motavia's Engine |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi;
It is sure encouraging to know that some people check torque and horsepower
figures.
I would suggest that there are other horsepower formulas that will give
higher figures I have them around if you really want to know but it would
take me a bit to dig them out.
The other option is that the PR department has control of the published
figures.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlene Clark <charjls(at)olympus.net> |
| Subject: | FULL LOTUS FLOATS |
i was lucky enough to find my Kolb Firestar II through this board. Now,
I have ordered a set of dual Full Lotus Floats and have no way to attach
them. Since Jim Lee's tragic untimely accident at Sun n' Fun this year,
I don't know where to go.
I would really appreciate some help here--I need some method of
attaching the dual floats and Kolb doesn't know where to go for this
either.
Help!
DEAN HENRY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
A delayed response. I am definitely going to do engine out practice. I
decided (when my MKIII is done) I will practice them down wind cross
wind and 270, 180, 90 degree and straight ahead. I hoping this will
enable to me to choose a wise landing spot immediately if my engine
quits by being familiar with how it handles and what spots are not an
option because they are too far away. I think the argument that most
accidents happen practicing stuff like engine outs is not valid because
if approached slowly and incrementally it can be done safely. You could
use this logic to say we should not practice touch and goes because most
accidents happen in the landing or taking off phase of flying so this
area should be avoided whenever possible. The reason we do touch and
goes is because this is a difficult part of flying so it takes some
practice to become proficient at it. I have heard most people say that
they carry some power when landing a Kolb ( I probably will too) because
it makes it not flair so fast and not so likely to drop in if perfect
height is not kept. This makes landing power off even more scary
because it is so different from the "normal" landing characteristics. I
think if approached slowly power off flying and landings can be safe fun
and are just one more relm of flight to try and master.
>----------
>From: Russell Duffy[SMTP:rad(at)pen.net@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 1997 3:30 PM
>To: Kolb list
>Subject: Re: A new topic
>
>OK I'll bite.
>
>> Should you ever shut off your engine for practice?
>
>
>I won't. With proper care, you could fly hundreds of hours without any real
>engine problems. Just knowing that your glide will be less than at idle
>should be enough. After all, the wind is always a variable that you can't
>memorize. When it comes right down to it, you're going to have to make a
>judgment based on existing conditions, and all the "perfect condition"
>practice
>in the world won't necessarily help. I do agree that it will be traumatic
>the
>first time it gets quiet, but it would be almost as bad to cause it myself.
>Also, keep in mind that I'll be flying from GA airports where this type of
>intentional emergency might get me in trouble.
>
>
>> Should you intentionally practice groundloops?
>
>
>No way, but I'll sure tell people that's what I was doing the first time it
>happens :-)
>
>
>Both of these situations make me think of the everlasting debate over
>practicing spins in GA planes. Way back when they used to require spin
>training, more people were getting killed in the training than in accidental
>spins, so the FAA decided to teach spin avoidance instead. I think this was
>a
>good idea. I've developed a very healthy respect for stall/spin conditions.
>
>OK, really let me have it now :-)
>Rusty
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FSII: speeds&temps on 1st flight |
On Thu, 29 May 1997, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> > the max, you are under that, and the engine is not working hard.
> >
> > -Ben RansomYou guys are confusing me just a bit. I have a 447 and a firestar
II, I
> have been having trouble with my midrange temps running almost right on
> 1200. I got the high speed temps down by changing jets until I found the
> right one. I finally had to get a 15e5u ( had a 15k? standard) Now the
> temps are just fine all through the range of speeds. In a earlier request
> for help in setting a IVO prop, I was told to set the pitch on the prop
> to 6350 static. I did so and it gives me about 6600 on climb out. Being
> new at this I would assume that you would want to set your rpms and then
> sdjust the carb jets to give you the temps that you need?
> Larry
I agree w/ your last premise, i.e., yes set the rpms and then adjust carb
jets. I guess the original post was in part dealing with a problem
where a high engine rpm was contributing to high EGT. But increasing
the pitch to the point of only getting 6000 rpm max at max throttle and
70mph seems like too much pitch (or not enf throttle travel), and aside
from EGT, that was my point. So in general, this problem seems to call
for flatter pitch as well as richer jet settings.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD WOOD <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | 6600 on climb out |
>have been having trouble with my midrange temps running almost right on
>1200. I got the high speed temps down by changing jets until I found the
>right one. I finally had to get a 15e5u ( had a 15k? standard) Now the
>temps are just fine all through the range of speeds. In a earlier request
>for help in setting a IVO prop, I was told to set the pitch on the prop
>to 6350 static. I did so and it gives me about 6600 on climb out. Being
>new at this I would assume that you would want to set your rpms and then
>sdjust the carb jets to give you the temps that you need?
>Larry
>
> Lets get the prop pitched so you dont pull more than 6300. More is not
allways better so if you slow down your max rpm you will increase
performance. once you get the right rpm then change your jets to get your
proper heat range. If the rpm changes reset your prop.Try again untill
everything matches up the way you want it to. I set the prop on my original
Twinstar with a Hirth 2703 to give me 6100 max rpm so I can enjoy the extra
cruise speed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
Ben Ransom , You replied to Doug Prange`s problem of rpm`s dropping
occasionally by saying " I put the plastic block in the bing carb barrel
on the wrong side of the needle valve circlip ". I`ve had this same
problem on my 503 . Could you elaborate a little more . I`m looking at
my Rotax manual blow-up of the bing carb parts & I`m not sure I quite
understand what you mean . Thanks in advance 4 your reply .
Jim Kmet
N520KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
| Subject: | re: FS 2 with 503 |
I know that some body has a problem with the C of G. on is FS11.
I have a FS 2 with a 503 dual carb and a BRS under the fuel tanks and I
have no problem.
I weight 180 pounds and when i am flying alone the elevator trim is about
mid. adjustement.
When I am with my partener (150 pounds) the trim adjustement is near the
max nose up position, and it fly very nice. There is one thing we didn't
check and we don't like (my partener and me but the aircraft used) is the
force for the aileron---> it is too high, we wil have to check this.
Two guys in the aircraft, we are cruising (relax) at 65 mph at 5300 rpm at
3.3 gph for a max of 3 hrs with the tank empty. If only one pilot flying it
is 70 mph. These perfomance are during the summer at 70-85 deg F with a
wood prop(original 66x34).
During the winter, we fly at 70 mph at 5000 rpm and it is a lot of fun on
skis.
If you want more details about the flying caracteristics the e-mail any
time, and I would like to know about the aileron force required to turn.
Have run flying ..........sbastien(at)dsuper.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlene Clark <charjls(at)olympus.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Undeliverable message] |
Date: 30 May 97 15:38:22 EDT
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER(at)CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Kolb-List: Undeliverable message
Re: FULL LOTUS FLOATS
Your message could not be delivered as addressed.
--- Returned message ---
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:06:07 -0700
From: Charlene Clark <charjls(at)olympus.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: FULL LOTUS FLOATS
i was lucky enough to find my Kolb Firestar II through this board. Now,
I have ordered a set of dual Full Lotus Floats and have no way to attach
them. Since Jim Lee's tragic untimely accident at Sun n' Fun this year,
I don't know where to go.
I would really appreciate some help here--I need some method of
attaching the dual floats and Kolb doesn't know where to go for this
either.
Help!
DEAN HENRY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD WOOD <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
I didn't know where or why I started using the6300 rpm for setting 2 cycle
engines so I decided to check things out even though that rule of thumb has
always worked for me. Here are the torque,hp and rpm's for rotax
227 26 hp@6250 max torque@5500
377 35 hp@6500 max torque@5500-6500
447 40 hp@6500 max torque@6000
503 52 hp@6500 max torque@5700
532 64 hp@6500 max torque@6000-6400
582 66 hp@6500 max torque@6000
These are the values I read off the graphs in an old LEAF catalogue.you
will notice max hp is usually measured at 6500. Max torque is a bit
less.6300 seems to be a happy medium between the two.My Twinstar is quite
draggy so My top speed is just over 70 on a good day. 5100 rpm with a course
pitch gives me about 55-60 mph. a finer pitch usuall requires 5900 for the
same speed.Think of the prop pitch like a transmission. Fine pitch is for a
faster start(first gear) Course pitch lets you cruise faster(fourth
gear)Decide what is best for your circumstance and set accordingly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Hang Gliders denigrating Paragliders |
RE:
From: WEFLYUNIV(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Hang-gliding-d digest V97 #295
Here's a fun idea!
Anybody that wants to make a comment about the other guy's chosen device
should preface his remarks with a description of his own mishaps.
For example:
If you fly a paraglider you should describe the number & size of collapses
you have had or surges to the horizon or beyond, the number of parachute
deployments, and the number and type of injuries you have had.
If you fly a hang glider you would describe the number of times you have
had radical pitchdowns or screaming sideslips, parachute deployments, the
number of whacks, the number of downtubes (or other airframe parts) you
have replaced,and the number and type of injuries you have had.
Doesn't that sound like fun? I think this would really spice up this little
game! The neat thing about it is if you don't speak about the "other" device
you don't have to say what your personal record is. And if you do, well, we
will all have a record of it!
OK, you go first!
Ken
Reply-
I commend you personally, Sir.
Glass houses/stone throwing, etc.....
Personal Flying experience:
1960 - radical pitchdown
resulting in an
unexpected and most
undesired ejection
from the birth canal.
This followed by the
startling backslap(not
unlike a screaming sideslip).
1960-
present Uncontrollable urge to run
headlong into the wind at
the slightest chance of
being able to escape the
bonds of the four walls
to rush into the yard &
see what it was I had just
heard flying over.
1967(?)-
1978 Specialized in X/C travel
upon pedal powered juvenile
curb/ramp/backyard hill
launched vehicle with the
glide-ratio of a bicycle,
to self-educate and study
aspects of aeronautic theory.
Attended local L/Z for the
Simplicity-challenged fliers
as a ground based observer
of the money=power struggle.
1972(?)-
1988 Achieved Tandem/Multiple rating
as a paying passenger in multiple
versions of small to large craft.
1987 - Adopted by an Instructor-for-life
(taken under her wing,if you will)
and given an Initial Annual Checkout
in HANG GLIDER @ KITTY HAWK KITES.
Promptly ran down dune after class
and nosed in three times before
realizing the bar goes out, and the
HG will fly. One does not 'climb
aboard' with bar to belly.
1988 - Instructor-for-life accepts my
proposal of marriage, realizing
she needs to recoup the financial
loss of previously mentioned
birthday present.
1989 - Still attempting flight, using
juvenile vehicle disguised as
mature motor transport with the
glide-ratio of a HONDA on 2wheels.
Augured in on attempt to launch
from the right shoulder during
a visual occlusion. School Bus
Yellow is an opaque pigmented
hazard during left turn cycles,
better to let these dissipate
so as to gauge incoming left-
rotating cross-traffic already
in the pattern.
1997 - Contemplating choice of vehicle
within budgetary constraints.
U/L,HG,PG,Powered Paraplane or
Powered Parafoil Backpack type.
Borrowed $7k/seven thousand
against pension and discovered
wiser choice to shed ballast of
drag-inducing debt. Holding the
June mortgage until next paycheck
makes deposit before mailing.
1998(?)-
________________________________________________________________________________
Laura Ziegler
| From: | The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Astounding Discovery,get yours today! |
jurenats(at)centum.utulsa.edu, tparadis(at)pop400.gsfc.nasa.gov,
EZ1604(at)aol.com
From: RHGPA(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Revolutionary New Technology :-)
I got a grin out of this. Just wonder how many people would take it
seriously... or not understand it.
Announcing the NEW
Built-in Orderly Organized Knowledge device,
otherwise known as the BOOK.
It's a revolutionary breakthrough in technology:
no wires, no electric circuits, no batteries,
nothing to be connected or switched on. It's so
easy to use even a child can operate it. Just
lift its cover. Compact and portable, it can be
used anywhere --even sitting in an armchair by
the fire-- yet it is powerful enough to hold as
much information as a CD-ROM disk.
Here's how it works: each BOOK is constructed of
sequentially numbered sheets of paper (recyclable),
each capable of holding thousands of bits of
information. These pages are locked together with
a custom-fit device called a binder which keeps the
sheets in their correct sequence. By using both
sides of each sheet, manufacturers are able to cut
costs in half.
Each sheet is scanned optically, registering information
directly into your brain. A flick of the finger takes
you to the next sheet. The BOOK may be taken up at any
time and used by merely opening it. The "browse" feature
allows you to move instantly to any sheet, and move
forward or backward as you wish. Most come with an
"index" feature, which pinpoints the exact location of
any selected information for instant retrieval.
An optional "BOOKmark" accessory allows you to open the
BOOK to the exact place you left it in a previous session
-- even if the BOOK has been closed. BOOKmarks fit
universal design standards; thus a single BOOKmark can
be used in BOOKs by various manufacturers.
Portable, durable and affordable, the BOOK is the
entertainment wave of the future, and many new titles are
expected soon, due to the surge in popularity of its
programming tool, the Portable Erasable-Nib Cryptic
Intercommunication Language Stylus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Price Increases/Poor Service |
Here's the letter I emailed them. Anybody else do their's.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Price Increases/Poor Service
Date: 5/31/97 12:59 PM
To: BRS
Attn: Mr. Boris Popov
From: Jerry Bidle
email: jerryb(at)ods.com
Date: May 31, 1997
Subject: Price Increases & Service
Dear Mr. Popov,
I am writing to express my disapproval with your company's recent
decision to make substantial price increases on your ballistic chute
units. I feel this sentiment is shared by majority of the ultralight
community. As for myself, it has forced me to rethink my purchasing
of two units. The cost is simply getting out of hand.
The units are essentially becoming very expensive fire extinguishers.
I simply can not accept your staffs justification of the price
increase on the basis "well, when you need one you need one."
Furthermore, I was extremely displeased to hear about the poor service
and series of events your company put a customer through when trying
to purchase a unit for his Kolb SlingShot. While you may presently
survive off your grants, at some point you will need to return to the
Ultralight community to survive. Majority of your sales today are
generated on the basis others have them. Should this pattern change,
your market could quickly soften.
the purchase of any unit. After completing a cost/risk assessment, it
has forced me to look at alternative ways to reduce risk. I came to
the conclusion a chute doesn't fix everything, thus will always be
some risk. In some cases it has actually proven to be detrimental to
even have one.
I have concluded my risk are reduced by flying a time proven design.
By completing a though preflight inspection prior to each flight to
assure all pins and clips are in place for the wing fold feature, I
don't see a need for one. The primary justification for purchasing a
unit had been based upon the pusher engine/prop configuration like
that used on the Kolb's. Should something go through the prop, it
could cause the engine to separate from the airframe due to an out of
balance situation. Actually, there have been a couple cases where the
chute itself created a problem when the harness itself came loose, got
into the prop and tore the engine loose. In those cases it proved
detrimental to even have one.
While a chute may reduce some risk, it does not eliminate them all.
There's no guarantee it will deploy successfully should an incident
require it's use. Based upon this and the recent substantial price
increase I concluded the best solution is to simply use a couple of
safety cables to keep the engine attached to the airframe to maintain
the CG should this occur. This proves to be far less expensive than
one of your units and solves the most likely problem. The difference
in cost could be used to ad improvements to further reduce risk and
improve reliability.
Regards,
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
OK, the info your need to email, fax, mail, or call is below:
Originator:
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
Reply:
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Sun, 25 May 97 05:35:34 cst
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: BRS hassle
Solution:
Form letter posted to KOLB LIST for people
to : - edit, e-mail (to what address?) Boris Popov
- edit, print & fax(what fax ph#?) Fax 612-457-8651
OR call to keep them busy,(ph#?) Voice 612-457-7491
It is easy to ignore a fax,
it's easy to delete an e-mail. BRSchute(at)aol.com
Address: BRS
Attn: Boris Popov
1845 Henry Ave.
South St. Paul, MN 55075 USA
We could keep all their people busy
answering phones until they realize there
is no profit margin in running a customer
complaint center, while they are detracted
from making their product.!!!
Shall We???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
Sorry ,But I need the address for the newsletter archives please.
Thanks ,,,, Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Stripling <jeff> |
> Sorry ,But I need the address for the newsletter archives please.
I think you want:
www.intrig.com/kolb/list/
--
Jeff Stripling
stripling(at)intrig.com
(512) 252-3053
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nagy <NAGY(at)genesis.cc.duq.edu> |
Has anybody had any experience with the modification to the Bing
Carburetor that Mike Jacober does to allow mixture control from the
cockpit? If so, what conclusions can you make. It sounds like the ideal
solution to the mid-range jetting adjustment without taking the top off
the carb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nagy <NAGY(at)genesis.cc.duq.edu> |
| Subject: | 1985 TwinStar flight parameters |
Does anyone have the Gross weight limitation for an open cockpit TwinStar
with a SC 503 engine?
Also I need the Load factors + and - g's. Vne, Stall speed ,
Cruise speed and best climb speed, so I can placard my instruments.
Finally , what was the typical gear reduction ratio on the stock
1985 Twinstar.
Thanks for your help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
It finally happened.
I flew my Mark III out of ground effect and to pattern altitude for the
first time last Saturday evening.
Everything went well and I have logged around four additional hours since.
The last being an hour flight this evening.
Thanks to everyone for all your advice and opinions over the last 20 months.
Especially to Dennis Souder....I know I have tested your patience.
Doug Prange
100%
Lincoln, Nebraska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I sent my warranty card in and it was returned, could someone please send me
the correct address for sending in the warranty card to Rotax.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
Guys, I have experienced the same symptoms that Ben Ransom &Doug Prange had
with the rotax rpm drop from 2000 rpm to 16-1700 occasionally, along
withhigh fuel consumption &wandering rpm`s @ cruise . Ben`s problem was an
improper placement of the carb`s plastic spring block & I was sure this was
my problem too . Upon inspection , my carb assembly was correct . Now this
has me bugged . Ben , or anyone, do you have any other suggestions ????
Thanks in advance for your reply
Jim Kmet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture Control |
I looked at it closely once. I decided that the infrequent adjustments I
made to the carb were not worth the extra complication of an inflight
adjustable system. Beware bells and whistles, they are more things that can
break.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wally(at)foxfibre.com (wally hofmann) |
| Subject: | riveting question |
I need to buy a handful of slightly oversized rivets ... yes I have messed
up a few times on the FirFly and a few holes are a little too big for the
1/8 incher.
In Aircraft Spruce they list "Cherry Commercial rivets" and "Avex
Non-Structural Blind Rivets" Are either of these appropriate replacements
for the rivets that came with the kit. Does anyone know the brand supplied
by Kolb?
Progress Report... tail is framed and the left wing is taking shape.
Thanks for the help.
Wally
wally(at)foxfibre.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Natural Cotton Colours, Inc.
PO Box 1926
Wickenburg, Arizona 85358
520-684-7199 phone
520-684-7299 fax
http://www.foxfibre.com/cotton/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 3 Jun 1997, The Kmets wrote:
> Guys, I have experienced the same symptoms that Ben Ransom &Doug Prange had
> with the rotax rpm drop from 2000 rpm to 16-1700 occasionally, along
> withhigh fuel consumption &wandering rpm`s @ cruise . Ben`s problem was an
> improper placement of the carb`s plastic spring block & I was sure this was
> my problem too . Upon inspection , my carb assembly was correct . Now this
> has me bugged . Ben , or anyone, do you have any other suggestions ????
> Thanks in advance for your reply
>
A few generic things to double check:
- Assuming this is electronic ignition. If points, check timing.
- Main jet size: are these the same as what worked previously? If not
maybe it is worth comparing them with others just to be sure somebody
hasn't gotten too handy and drilled them a little bigger. Also, just
to check with a rotax dealer that they are approx correct for your
density altitude.
- Dbl check that the mid-range needle is correct for your dens altitude,
and with the air filters off, look into the carbs as you work the
throttle. Do the needle valves travel freely up and down in the
jet with the throttle?
- Are the fuel filters clean? Any carbon/oil stains showing leakage
on either intake or exhaust sides, or head gasket area? All head
nuts and manifold bolts at proper torque?
_ Do a compression check... hand pulling a warmed up engine should give
you 80-120psi each cylinder, with <10% diff between the 2. The actual
compression you read is highly dependant on how fast you pull the
starter. I get 100psi with a good hard pull on mine. Electric starters
will give you much higher readings, but they should still be =.
Trying to find the source of the problem is a good idea. Usually, something
fishy means there is trouble somewhere, and it is really nice to locate it
before it bites you in a bigger way.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Wandering rpm,s at cruise can sometimes be caused by the wear of the
jet needle after 150-200 hours as it vibrates within the needle jet.
Eventually you end up rich at cruise rpm (but nowhere else) with that
needle, even though it was always good before. A new needle will put you
back to correct mixture, but
I doubt this has anything to do with the rpm drop from 2000 to 1600-1700.
One thing to check is to see if the enrichment valve(choke) is snug on it's
seat. If it is just up a hair, you might not notice it at cruise, but at
lower rpm's, it could richen things up just enough to cause an rpm drop. You
might also check the spark plug gap that it is not too big.
If you are using spark plugs with high impedence to keep radio
static down, and also the 5000 ohm spark plug caps, you can run into problems.
A lot of this is a shot in the dark, take it for what it's worth.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neill Clayton-Smith <ncs(at)orca.overthe.net> |
| Subject: | New BRS manufacturer |
Hi all,
Following on the thread of problems experienced with BRS. In the latest
issue of Ultralight Flyer there is an article on a company importing
rocket launched parachutes tested by the Czech army. From rocket firing
to canopy opening is 0.7 - 1.5 secs.
25 yr lifetime with 6 yr gaurantee and repack interval.
Company is A.K.S. inc P.O Box 17161, Dept UF, Portland, OR 97217
Ph 503 247-9207 Fax 503 289-1491
e-mail trikes(at)teleport.com
Looks like BRS is about to get some well deserved competition !!
L8R
Neill.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Money to Burn - Ordering Instruments & Gauges |
Need Help;
I will be ordering instruments and gauges for my FireFly in next few
weeks. Need to know what brand is the most durable and the supplier
Seems like there's a lot of choices but which are good (take the
vibration and are accurate) and which are bad (pointers fall off/short
life). How is Westach say compared to say the ones Lockwood sells.
What about the capacitance fuel gauges. Is there any difference
between the one SkySports sells versus Airstar or Aircraft Spruce
other than price. What about replacement parts - probes/meter.
Haven't seen much in the way of comments or help from out there on
list.
If you have bad things to say and do not want to post, reply directly
to me.
Thanks for your feedback,
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Potential BRS competitor |
In light of all the horror stories I have heard here, if anyone is
interested in persuing a competitive product from the firm that supplied
their first engineering samples (U.S. Rockets) of ballistic parachutes and
initiators, please contact this address.
Rockets are cool, but lifesavers should be readily available and
reasonably priced.
Jerry
--
Jerry Irvine
Box 1242, Claremont, CA 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Question? I've noticed the last few weeks that many people has listed
their speeds at cruise (low to mid 5000's) as 70 mph. Has any one checked
this against a GPS?
Reason is that I have a FSII and find that in that range I'm in the mid to
hi 50's and low 60's. This was checked with a GPS and my wife driving
below me in her car. Either I've got a very weak engine (less than 100hrs
- 503, dual carb) or I've trimmed the plane out terribly - would be
interested in other speeds noted. Dan B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
The Kmets wrote:
>
> Guys, I have experienced the same symptoms that Ben Ransom &Doug Prange had
> with the rotax rpm drop from 2000 rpm to 16-1700 occasionally, along
> withhigh fuel consumption &wandering rpm`s @ cruise . Ben`s problem was an
> improper placement of the carb`s plastic spring block & I was sure this was
> my problem too . Upon inspection , my carb assembly was correct . Now this
> has me bugged . Ben , or anyone, do you have any other suggestions ????
> Thanks in advance for your reply
Jim Kmet
I also have the same thing happening with my 447 when it idles. I read
both of the other replies and none of those fit my situation. I think
that it is more that the low speed air adjustment is off and since my
carborator adjustment is facing 12 inches from a rotating prop I doubt
that I will ever get it just perfect. I am sure that it is pretty rich,
just from observing the egt temp. I always thought that was why "they"
suggested that you should "clear" or goose up the gas when yu are making
a idle speed approach. My engine is fairly new and it has always done
this and it has never caused any problems other than when you are waiting
for it to warm up enough to go flying. I don't cut the throttle all the
way back except when I want my wheels on the ground.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
| Subject: | Full Lotus floats |
>DEAN HENRY
>
You wrote:
>
>i was lucky enough to find my Kolb Firestar II through this board.
Now,>I have ordered a set of dual Full Lotus Floats and have no way to
attach>them. Since Jim Lee's tragic untimely accident at Sun n' Fun
this year,>I don't know where to go.
>I would really appreciate some help here--I need some method of
>attaching the dual floats and Kolb doesn't know where to go for this
>either.
>
>Help!
>
>DEAN HENRY
>
Dean:
About two months ago, we spoke at length on the phone about your flying
plans and I read that you had bought an FS-II and plan to equip it with
Lotus floats. Sounds like an excellent combo.
As you might remember, I also had trouble finding information on how to
attach the Lotus floats. You will get a lot of info from Full Lotus on
the general idea of connecting the floats but no specifics relating to
the FS-II. That's why I designed and build my own, which has been
"tested" successfully for over 6 years and close to 1000
take-off&landings.
>From what I have seen of the FS-II, the general layout of the welded
cage is roughly the same as the Mark-III and the same connecting points
can be used i.e. the legs and the rear cross bolt connection. If you
can send me the dimensions and photo's of these three points, and the
relative locations in relation to the C.G., I will be able to determine
the basic layout for your setup.
Did you order the amphip kit as well? It changes the design
requirements.
The next thing is to actually design and build all the parts and do the
installation and flight trials which are required to get it all working
correctly. I might be able to help you with the design and building of
the attachments, but the rest you have to do yourself. :-)
I found out by trial and error that the Kolbs need waterrudders when
used in windy conditions and you need to make provisions for these as
well.
Good luck
Frank Reynen Mark-III @ 380hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cpeterhu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New BRS manufacturer |
anyone have any experience with the additive PROLONG?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
Getting ready to cover wings on my Mark III. I'm looking for comments on
using the optional weight method to hold the fabric. Do you really need 5
to 7 lbs? I filled a dozen ziplock sandwich bags with sand from the kids
sand box ( they have outgrown it anyway) which weighed in at a little over a
pound, made some s hooks and used them to hold the fabric while covering
the bottom and sides of the cage. This worked really well but 5 to 7 lbs
sounds like a lot of weight.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax Repair Manual? |
Hi,
There was some talk before about a Rotax repair manual that was way better than
the operators guide that comes with the engine. Did anyone ever find a source
to buy these? I'd like to pick one up for my 503.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering rpm's |
I can't speak to your problems at idel, but keep in mind that there is a fair
amount of rpm wandering that happes in a 2 stroke even under normal
conditions. Put the nose down in cruise and pick up 15 mph and the rpm will
go up too. Put the nose up and put a load on and it will slow down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison) |
>Guys, I have experienced the same symptoms that Ben Ransom &Doug
>Prange had
>with the rotax rpm drop from 2000 rpm to 16-1700 occasionally, along
>withhigh fuel consumption &wandering rpm`s @ cruise . Ben`s problem
>was an
>improper placement of the carb`s plastic spring block & I was sure
>this was
>my problem too . Upon inspection , my carb assembly was correct . Now
>this
>has me bugged . Ben , or anyone, do you have any other suggestions
>????
>Thanks in advance for your reply
>
> Jim Kmet
>
Dear Jim:
I experienced a problem with my fuel flow at cruise as well. In my case,
I believe it was caused by excessive resistance in the line due to the
fuel bulb. If you think about it, on a Kolb the pulse fuel pump has to
raise the fuel about 3 feet from tank to carburetor. This is a
borderline height if you don't use an electric pump or some other
system. I tried to suck air through the fuel bulb and found a tremendous
amount of resistance. With the bulb, I would occasionally have fuel
starvation at cruise rpms. I took the bulb out of the system, and have
never had another burp, burble, or variation in rpm for about the last
75 hours. Try it.
Bruce Harrison
FSII-145 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Speeds, Instruments |
On Tue, 3 Jun 1997, Dan Bush wrote:
> Question? I've noticed the last few weeks that many people has listed
> their speeds at cruise (low to mid 5000's) as 70 mph. Has any one checked
> this against a GPS?
For what it's worth: I have a FS KXP with 447 SC. I get ~57mph with 4900
rpm. This not checked by a GPS, but over time has checked accurately
and consistantly against many Rate*Time=Distance flights.
Other question regarding instruments:
Mine are Westach (analog). I have no complaints at all. It would be nice
however, to have warning lights available at CHT or EGT set points. I
think this is in the Grand Rapids EIS?
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Murnyack <murnyack(at)csrlink.net> |
| Subject: | Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447? |
Hello:
I'm going to be building a Firefly with a Rotax 447 (with help from
Kolb's quickbuild option). I was wondering what propeller would be the
best choice for this setup? I like composites and the idea of
adjustable blade pitch. But, what manufacturer seems to have the best
product? Two blade or three blade? Do any of you guys and gals have
experience with the Firefly/Rotax 447 setup?
Later...
Stephen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Repair Manual? |
Hola: Got this information from the use net newsgroup on ultralights
TTYL
Will Uribe
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
http://www.rotax-owner.com
| Date: | Jun 04, 1997 |
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing covering |
>Getting ready to cover wings on my Mark III. I'm looking for comments on
>using the optional weight method to hold the fabric. Do you really need 5
>to 7 lbs? I filled a dozen ziplock sandwich bags with sand from the kids
>sand box ( they have outgrown it anyway) which weighed in at a little over a
>pound, made some s hooks and used them to hold the fabric while covering
>the bottom and sides of the cage. This worked really well but 5 to 7 lbs
>sounds like a lot of weight.
>
>Terry
>
>
Hi Terry and the Kolb world.
I used the 5 lb. jugs and they worked great. One other suggestion that you
may want to consider is to install a length of aircraft safety wire along
the center of your ribs. I have seen several Kolb ultralights at Oshkosh
that had bent ribs due to excessive fabric tension. I built a Kolb
Ultrastar a number of years ago and had one rib bend just a bit --- it is
very easy to give the fabric just a little bit of extra heat and "bingo" you
have a bent rib.
When I built my Mark111 several year ago I attached a length of safety wire
to the steel end rib about half way between the main spar and the trailing
edge. I then wrapped it around the next rib at half way between the spar
and trailing edge. I continued on to the last end rib. I then went on to
the end of the wing and made my final attachment. This is the point where
the braces from the spar attach to the center point on the end of the wing.
I attached the safety wire to the ribs by wrapping it around the vertical
tube that is located about midpoint between the spar and the trailing edge.
Just make one wrap around the vertical tube on the ribs. The length of
safety wire must be tightened up or it will slip at the rib attachment point.
After the wire is tight the ribs can still be moved back and forth a bit
with just a little push or pull. This allows for final alignment so all the
ribs end up streight. The ribs can then be locked in place by applying
fabric cement over the area on the rib where the wire is wrapped.
This system worked great for me. All my ribs are streight and a my fabric
is tight. The additional weight that the safety wire adds is insignificant.
Kim Steiner (BKS)
Saskatchewan Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Rotax warrantee card, carb heat product |
OK, where do I send the Rotax engine warrantee card and what do I fill in
the blanks for "Invoice number" and "warrantee expires date"? Thanks
I have an old (1996) LEAF catalog. On page 156 it has a two-line description
of a carb heat product that uses coolant to warm the bing throats. Here is
what the catalog says, and there is no photo:
"The Cyclone Water Carburetor Heater comes ready to install. It uses water
from the engine to warm the carb." $194.95
Has anyone ever seen this thing or used it? I have called LEAF for more info,
they are trying to find something to send me with more info.
I was hoping this would be a more turn-key carb heat solution with the same
concept that Kim in Canada built and is using. If I get more info, I will
post it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447? |
B
On Wed, 4 Jun 1997, Stephen Murnyack wrote:
> Hello:
>
> I'm going to be building a Firefly with a Rotax 447 (with help from
> Kolb's quickbuild option). I was wondering what propeller would be the
> best choice for this setup? I like composites and the idea of
> adjustable blade pitch. But, what manufacturer seems to have the best
> product? Two blade or three blade? Do any of you guys and gals have
> experience with the Firefly/Rotax 447 setup?
Kolb's newsletter said they have a slight preference for the IVO on
smaller engines, slight pref for the Warp prop on the bigger engines.
I have a Warp "high aspect" on my 447 Firestar. I feel a little annoyed
that Warp refers to it as an "almost constant speed" prop; I see no
performance characteristic in it that deserves this advertising jingle.
(It is also true that i've never had any other prop on this plane so
don't truely have a direct comparison.)
I am bothered by sporadic notes from the past regarding IVOs breaking.
As well, it bugs me that they flex so darn much -- it just gives me the
willies. I think Warps are much stronger; i've never heard of one breaking.
As well, they showed better climb performance and lower noise than IVOs
in a Quicksilver magazine evaluation. I recently weighed my Warp prop.
With hub it is 6.5 lbs (machined AL hub, 66" high aspect prop). Cal
(calvin(at)peoples.net) posted to me that he has a same size Shetler wood
prop that weighs 4 lbs. So, the added weight in the warp was a surprise
to me: just cuz it is composite doesn't mean it is lighter. If i were
to do it all over again, i would look at the Powerfin and plain ol wood
fixed pitch. Mike Ransom talked w/ the owner of Powerfin. Turns out
he worked for IVO and knows the history of IVO and Warp very well. (He
also now is a competitor with them.) Even tho i've pointed out some
down-sides to a Warp, i am still very very happy with mine.
One more generic thing ...if you're interested in efficiency go for 2
blade. for lowest noise, go 3 blade.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax warrantee card, carb heat product |
Before you go writing checks to people for aftermarket carb warmers ask
yourself if you have a carb ice problem that requires carb heat. I flew my
mark 2 in alot of cold weather and never had a problem, or more accurately I
never had a problem I could attribute to carb ice. A number of folks I have
talked to think that carb ice can't happen on a 582/503 because the oil in
the fuel coats the carb throat and there is no place for the ice to stick.
Others think that the carbs are too close to the warm engine block to allow
it to form. I don't know if either of these propositions is true, but they
make a little sense. Why not wait until you know you have a problem before
you begin to apply bells and whistles. I'd be interested in what the rest of
the group thinks of this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Anderson" <jandersoninc(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi,
My name is John Anderson and I'm a new subscriber to this mailing list so
pardon me if this topic has been discussed before.
I built an Ultrastar many years ago and was flying it regularly. LOVE IT,
however it has been sitting in my garage broken for a couple of years now.
I also built a trailer that I used to take the plane to the local airport,
about 2 miles away. I typically would fly primarily in the evening because
of work and the fact I just enjoy the smooth air more then getting thrashed
in the middle of the day.
One evening after dinner, the wind died down and it looked like a perfect
day to go flying. The Ultrastar is well designed and made for trailering,
it is very manageable for one person. I arrived at the airport, unloaded
the plane took a glance at the windsock and it was hanging limp. I
proceeded to unload the struts, tool box, gas can etc. After setting up
the first wing (left) I went to the tail pulled the hitch pin and walked
the right wing out to full extention, and then out of nowhere a gust of
wind blew so hard that it flipped the plane over on me. I was not hurt but
it severely damaged right wing.
I figure the gust was a thermal lifting off of the asphalt runway. So the
moral of this story is:
If you are planning on trailering your airplane, either have someone go
with you to the airport to help in the setup OR once you have one wing
setup TIE IT DOWN. Don't take the calm conditions for granted.
Hope I can prevent this same thing from happening to someone else.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Rotax warrantee card, carb heat product |
Carb ice is not most likely to occur in cold weather. I has a lot to do
with the humidity if it is high and around 50 or 60 degrees it is most
likely to occur. The temperature in the carb can drop 20 or 30 degrees
(fuel vaporization, pressure drop etc. etc.) If it is already below
freezing and the humidity is low (cold air can hold less moisture) there
is no moisture to form ice. If it is 60 degrees the air can hold lots
of moisture so when it cools in the carb it can condense out and is
available to form ice. I dont know how prone rotaxes are to Ice, but
you could probably fly a GA plane for years in the right (wrong for
carb ice) conditions and not encounter ice either.
>----------
>From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com[SMTP:Cavuontop(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 1997 12:18 PM
>To: GERKEN(at)rchvmx.vnet.ibm.com
>Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: Rotax warrantee card, carb heat product
>
>Before you go writing checks to people for aftermarket carb warmers ask
>yourself if you have a carb ice problem that requires carb heat. I flew my
>mark 2 in alot of cold weather and never had a problem, or more accurately I
>never had a problem I could attribute to carb ice. A number of folks I have
>talked to think that carb ice can't happen on a 582/503 because the oil in
>the fuel coats the carb throat and there is no place for the ice to stick.
> Others think that the carbs are too close to the warm engine block to allow
>it to form. I don't know if either of these propositions is true, but they
>make a little sense. Why not wait until you know you have a problem before
>you begin to apply bells and whistles. I'd be interested in what the rest of
>the group thinks of this.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
An other suggestion about your rpm drop...........
on my mark II i had problem with the idle after a main jet replacement:
The fuel level in the carb boal was not always the same, I did readjust a
few time during the same afternoon with a run up after each adjustement,
until I find the cause of my
probleme....................................................................
................................
Each time I was replacing the carb. lower part I did a run up, but
sometime I had carb. overflow and sometime the fuel level was too
low-------------------------> the prolem was-------> the little plastic
screen around the main jet was deformed and when I reinstalled the lower
part of carb.... sometime it gave restriction to the lever for the inlet
needle---->overflow----->or level too high then engine too rich then poor
idle.
At other rpm the engine worked well. Since I found the problem I take
care to position the little screen in the bottom of the bowl and raise the
bowl slowly to the carb. If I'm not 200% sure I do this procedure again.
Good luck ....................sbastien(at)dsuper.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All,
It has been over a month since my last flight and that is too long. We have
been out of town. I did a fast taxi, then a runway flight, then took off.
I stayed in the pattern and did several touch and goes, then moved off to
the side and gained some altitude to refresh myself and do tests.
My Garmin 12XL gps (a new toy) indicated that my ASI is reading high by at
least 5 to 7 mph, possible even a tad more. I did reverse tracks, then
reverse tracks at 90 degrees to those all at the same altitude to get this
rough idea. It will take more testing before I know exactly how far off my
ASI instrument is. BTW, the gps is working great - what a great instrument.
It tracked all of my movements and was interesting to look at it after
returning. I have all of the local airports, crossroads, towers, and other
landmarks entered to provide a rudamentary moving map.
I tried the Kolb idea of the aileron trim (a bungee stretched from the right
edge of the floor pan around the stick and back to the floor pan edge) and
found that it worked very well and it is infinitely adjustable by sliding it
up or down the stick just a little.
I tried to fly exact manouvers trying to hold altitude and speed. I wish
the ailerons were softer. The elevators are feather light. I am trying to
keep the windshield slip string centered and find I have to use left rudder
more often than right. Entering right turns required more aileron pressure
on the stick than does a left turn.
I experimented more with all kinds of stalls - power on, off, climbing,
accelerated (pulling G's out of a dive), half flaps, full flaps. In all
cases the breaks were either well telegraphed, soft and straight ahead or a
mush. The flaps are very powerful and dropped the stall speed a little.
The ailerons were effective through the stalls, although I did not use large
inputs as I was afraid of falling off into a spin. Walking the rudder helps
delay the stall a little.
I tried forward slipping, but found the feeling odd (not like the old J3 or
Cessna) and the nose wanted to pitch back up to level flight. I will have
to investigate that further.
My radio is still not transmitting well. I need to establish a better
ground plane and get a whip. I have heard of someone using aluminum foil.
I might try that. I had to change an EGT sender that was faulty (darn cheap
instruments). The shock mounted panel sometimes really shakes just for a
moment after take off when the unblalanced wheels are turning pretty fast.
All of the needles are holding on so far.
I removed the two strips of duct tape I had on the radiators. The weather
is turning warm and the engine temps rose to 180 degrees in climb. I will
remove the rear enclosure before my next flight as it was pretty hot until I
got some altitude.
I returned to the pattern and did some more touch and goes before landing.
I got myself pretty air sick this flight (but that is common for me). Maybe
the next flight, I should take it a little easier.
Just 36 more hours to go before I can take a friend. I will be glad when I
feel proficient enough to leave the airport area. The landings today felt
good. The air was fairly smooth even though I was below the cumulus clouds
and in warm unstable air. As always the view was spectacular.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna Location |
> My radio is still not transmitting well. I need to establish a better
> ground plane and get a whip. I have heard of someone using aluminum foil.
What about mounting a short antenna pointing down from the floor-pan? On the
SS this looks like a good option but the SS is quite a bit higher than the
other models. This would give you the best ground plane available, some
shielding from the engine, and an unobstructed view of the other radios you're
talking to.
BTW- I loved the report as usual Cliff.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD WOOD <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
I shouold have been more descriptive in my answers to your questions. the
engine failure was because I missed reading the "e" on the spark plug I
installed. All the other numbers matched. That "e" meant extended. as I took
off and climbed to 200ft the power dropped to 3500rpm.I was able to return
and land safely.I pulled the plugs and found the ends melted off.This was
caused by sticking the spark plug to far into the combustion chamber (hence
the term extended). 1 cylinder and piston was damaged and I replaced them at
my own expense.Big expensive mistake.
The ignition coil wire I broke was one of the little ones coming off the
coil. This killed that cylinder and again the rpm dropped to 3500.Made it
home safe and discovered the bad wire.Vibration caused it to weaken at the
fitting and it snapped off.I now check this wire every 10 hrs because the
same wire broke again.
A friend is installing a 65hp hirth on his mk3. He had trouble getting in
touch with the company last week. He called other dealers and they were
having the same problem.This is Hirth in Calgary the main importer. I have
no problem revealing names on list because I stand behind every thing I say
and usually with hard evidence. I like my Hirth but I have had trouble with
the importers. I believe the Hirth is superior to the Rotax I also believe
Hirth company needs lessons in customer service and product support.A basic
order may cause an additional $50 in phone bills chasing it down and begging
them to send it to you.Lets hope they take a few lessons in running
abusiness. Good news goes nowhere but bad news travels far and wide.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cindy Sorenson <7cat75(at)3rivers.net> |
Hi,
Does anyone know of any instructors in the Salt Lake City area?
Thanks,
Arnie Sorenson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Carb ice likes to form up on stuff like carb butterflys or choke plates.
Bing and Mikuni slide carbs have nothing downstream for ice to accrue on.
Several years ago we pulled the air cleaner off my brother in law's
Quicksilver with Cuyuna engine to see what the carb did on a cold, 90%
humidity winter day. You could see frost form around the needle jet opening,
but it never did anything other than just show a very small area.
The other factor is two stroke blow back through the carb. Over prop
an engine a bit and then pull the aircleaner off. If the engine bogs a bit
under load you can often see a standing wave of fuel/air mist for several
inches out from the carburetor. I believe that the warm air pulsing back out
the carb in between intake pulses helps keep ice from forming, but have
never heard anything definitive from a credible source.
Years ago some of the locals that flew Eagles with the Zenoah 250
and the pumper Mikuni carb(butterfly , not slide valve) had intermittent
forced landings they blamed on carb ice.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> > My radio is still not transmitting well. I need to establish a better
> > ground plane and get a whip. I have heard of someone using aluminum foil.
>
> What about mounting a short antenna pointing down from the floor-pan? On the
> SS this looks like a good option but the SS is quite a bit higher than the
> other models. This would give you the best ground plane available, some
> shielding from the engine, and an unobstructed view of the other radios you're
> talking to.
>
> BTW- I loved the report as usual Cliff.
>
> Rusty
Has anybody ever tried running your coax out through the tail boom and
mounting it just in front of the rudder using some tubing braces to hold
it up parallel with the rudder?
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna location |
Antennas work best if they are not close to other metal objects that
stick up from the structure. Try to keep at least 18" away from landing gear
legs, radiators, vertical fin, nose skids, etc, and 24" is better. Best is
sitting on a horizontal surface with metal ground plane at least 12" on a
side and nothing poking up close by, at least 24" away. This is tough on a
Kolb, but that's the goal. On my MKIII the transponder antenna is on the
belly below the passenger seat about halfway between the right landing gear
leg and the rear mount of the nose skid. The VHF antenna is on the belly
behind the pilot seat about 24" behind the seat. All this stuff was told me
and the mounting points were suggested by one of the radio technicians where
I work, and approach control says the transponder has no dropouts, and the
radio is good also, so I can't take any credit, but would like to pass it on.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna location |
> Antennas work best if they are not close to other metal objects that
>stick up from the structure. Try to keep at least 18" away from landing gear
>legs, radiators, vertical fin, nose skids, etc, and 24" is better. Best is
>sitting on a horizontal surface with metal ground plane at least 12" on a
>side and nothing poking up close by, at least 24" away.
I can't stand it any longer. :)
I have to ask; what is a ground plane, and how do you make/create/cause one?
Thanks!
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna location |
>> Antennas work best if they are not close to other metal objects that
>>stick up from the structure. Try to keep at least 18" away from landing gear
>>legs, radiators, vertical fin, nose skids, etc, and 24" is better. Best is
>>sitting on a horizontal surface with metal ground plane at least 12" on a
>>side and nothing poking up close by, at least 24" away.
>
>
> I can't stand it any longer. :)
>
> I have to ask; what is a ground plane, and how do you make/create/cause one?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> -Jon-
>
> Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
> .- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
> | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
> | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
> `---------------------------------------------------------------------'
> I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
>
> A ground plane is something for the radio signal to reflect off of.
If you just stick the antenna on to a tube or something(Like a CB antenna
stuck on the bracket of a rear view mirror on a truck) then the antenna is
missing one of its components, so to speak. (I am not a radio guru, this is
strickly redneck intrepretation of a complex subject) If you stick the
antenna on the top of the vertical fin, for instance, it lacks a reflector.
So take a scrap of aluminum at least as big as a pie plate, and stick the
antenna in the middle of it like a birthday candle, and it will work MUCH
better. If the ground plane is as big as a cookie tin, so much the better.
Naturally, the antenna should be grounded to the ground plane.
rp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shai Golan <shai(at)moon.co.il> |
Hi,
I am currently looking for a two seater to build, and seriously
considerign a Kolb. Since there are none currently flying in Israel
(where I live) I was wondering whether it would be possible to ride in
one (as a passanger of course) at Oshkosh. Do Kolb Aircraft give "rides"
or do I have to find a friendly owner attending...
Thanks,
Shai
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna location |
>If the ground plane is as big as a cookie tin, so much the better.
>> Naturally, the antenna should be grounded to the ground plane.
>
>
> Did you mean that the outside screen of the coax should be grounded to
>the ground plane ?? I have a vision of someone grounding the centre
>conductor and then being VERY disappointed !
>
>
> Martin
> 9Y4TAM
>
> I forgot Murphy's law of Antenna Connections. YES! Ground the center
conductor and be very disappointed. And have your friends mock you and make
vulgar gestures in your direction. Or if you really want to talk to the
tower, ground the outer screen of the coax.
rp
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
<< Has anybody ever tried running your coax out through the tail boom and
mounting it just in front of the rudder using some tubing braces to hold
it up parallel with the rudder?
>>
yes. And it worked fine. be sure to run the cable under the control cables
so they don't abrade the antenna cable. Wag Aero sells a nice antenna with a
20' cord that worked well in my mark 2.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
>Dear Jim:
>
>I experienced a problem with my fuel flow at cruise as well. In my case,
>I believe it was caused by excessive resistance in the line due to the
>fuel bulb. If you think about it, on a Kolb the pulse fuel pump has to
>raise the fuel about 3 feet from tank to carburetor. This is a
>borderline height if you don't use an electric pump or some other
>system. I tried to suck air through the fuel bulb and found a tremendous
>amount of resistance. With the bulb, I would occasionally have fuel
>starvation at cruise rpms. I took the bulb out of the system, and have
>never had another burp, burble, or variation in rpm for about the last
>75 hours. Try it.
>
>Bruce Harrison
>FSII-145 hours
I didn't remove my bulb but placed a "T" on both sides so fuel could bypass
if the bulb plugged.
This line that routes around the bulb has to be pinched off when you prime
with the bulb.
Doug Prange
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
| Subject: | Handheld For Sale |
I'm looking for a good reasonably priced handheld transciever with a jack
for push to talk.
COM not necessary.
If I can't find a used one soon I'll be forced to buy "new".
Any suggestions other than ICOM?
Doug Prange
evoice(at)acton.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
> >I believe it was caused by excessive resistance in the line due to the
> >fuel bulb. If you think about it, on a Kolb the pulse fuel pump has to
> >amount of resistance. With the bulb, I would occasionally have fuel
> >starvation at cruise rpms. I took the bulb out of the system, and have
> >never had another burp, burble, or variation in rpm for about the last
> >75 hours. Try it.
> >Bruce Harrison
> >FSII-145 hours
>
On Thu, 5 Jun 1997, Doug Prange wrote:
> I didn't remove my bulb but placed a "T" on both sides so fuel could bypass
> if the bulb plugged.
> This line that routes around the bulb has to be pinched off when you prime
> with the bulb.
I guess i'll now check how much resistance i get to sucking thru the bulb.
Mike Stratman's Care and Feeding series says the bulb should be within
reach of the pilot as a possible correction to a faltering engine in
flight. If you have to squeeze the bulb, pinch a bypass line, chew gum,
AND fly the airplane, this becomes much less an option. So, Is the bulb
more likely to clog, or save your hide from some other fuel line problem?
If the bulb gives no resistance, it seems it might be a good idea to
not bypass it. If it does show resistance, buy a new bulb. Opinions?
Looking forward to a good gulp of fuel. :-/
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Hi,
Need a little help with oils. It seems that the stores here don't sell
pennsoil air cooled two cycle in the summer. I have looked in all the
catalogs and Pennsoil and the synthetic seem to be the only ones offered.
The Texaco bulk plant here sells their brand of two cycle oil- the
question that I have is this OK or do I send for some Pennsoil? I had not
thought that it was that superior to other major brands. Right or wrong?
Does any body else get a message from Majordomo that yur e-mails to
Kolb are undeliverable, but they show up anyway?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Jim Baker wrote:
>
> Lots of db loss running this much cable to a passive antenna. Much
> better to do it out of the floor pan with a short run. See below:
>
> Cliff,
>
> Made an antenna on the cheap. All you need is 25 in of stainless or
> plain old music wire (hobby shop stuff) 1/16" dia. Go to Radio Shack
> and get a panel mount BNC connector ( the one with threaded portion),
> some RG-58 cable and a couple of twist on BNC male connectors.
>
> I already had an aluminum floor in the FS2 (built-in ground plane) and
> so drilled an appropriate hole in the floor pan and just poked the
> antenna wire thru the fabric when mounting it. I also super glued a
> small nylon washer to the fabric by slipping it over the wire....keeps
> the fabric from being damaged. Because of the ground clearance, mine
> is bent back at a 45 degree angle.
>
> Works great with my Bendix King KLX 100. No noise at all from
> ignition and while flying to Lake Texhoma last Sunday. Talked to Altus
> AFB approach control from adjacent Ardmore (3000 ft). What a deal.
>
> > From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
> > To: Russell Duffy
> > Cc: Kolb list
> > Subject: Re: Antenna Location
>
> > Russell Duffy wrote:
> > >
> > > > My radio is still not transmitting well. I need to establish a better
> > > > ground plane and get a whip. I have heard of someone using aluminum foil.
> > >
> > > What about mounting a short antenna pointing down from the floor-pan? On
the
> > > SS this looks like a good option but the SS is quite a bit higher than the
> > > other models. This would give you the best ground plane available, some
> > > shielding from the engine, and an unobstructed view of the other radios you're
> > > talking to.
> > >
> > > BTW- I loved the report as usual Cliff.
> > >
> > > Rusty
> >
> >
> > Has anybody ever tried running your coax out through the tail boom and
> > mounting it just in front of the rudder using some tubing braces to hold
> > it up parallel with the rudder?
> >
> > Larry
> >
> > I really don't know anything about aircraft radios, but with all
antennas that I have seen the antenna has to be matched with the correct
length of coax or you have a impedence mismatch that is not good. In
other words you can't whack off the extra coax on a CB and expect to have
anything. As for ground plane- if you mount to the belly pan of the
aircraft then you efectively place the largest area of your ground to the
rear of the craft, since the shape and area of the ground plane
determines to a large extent where your power or voice will be radiated.
In other words in a car with the antenna mounted on the passenger fron
fender your greatest range would be in the drection of the drivers rear
fender. If you mount the antenna on the tail boom then yur ground plane
radiates to the front using all the aircrafts metal framework as a ground
plane. I am also not too sure what the effect of the extra coax wrapped
up in a coil does either. Any way- food for thought.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Squeeze bulb resistance |
To All...
I made a siphon tube to sump the tanks that includes an in line squeeze bulb
to get the siphon action working. I have found that after flow begins the
bulb does not seem to slow the flow of fuel at all.
I installed my primer bulb in the fuel system without the bypass tube that
was recommended in the plans. I also thought about the possible need in
flight and having no way to squeeze the bypass tube in an emergency.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: undeliverable messages |
> Does any body else get a message from Majordomo that yur e-mails to
> Kolb are undeliverable, but they show up anyway?
Yep, I get that message every time I post. Glad to know that it isn't just my
ISP.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447? |
I think your best source for this question is Dennis at Kolb. There
seems to be some differences in 2 blade and 3 blade, which engine,
and distance the blade is behind the wing. They learned that a spacer
may be used to get clean air to the prop. I don't have it all down
well enough to quote it back but all those factors can into play when
I had talked to him one time.
Hey Dennis why not write up a paragraph on this.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447?
Date: 6/4/97 11:11 AM
Hello:
I'm going to be building a Firefly with a Rotax 447 (with help from
Kolb's quickbuild option). I was wondering what propeller would be the
best choice for this setup? I like composites and the idea of
adjustable blade pitch. But, what manufacturer seems to have the best
product? Two blade or three blade? Do any of you guys and gals have
experience with the Firefly/Rotax 447 setup?
Later...
Stephen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Rotax warrantee card, carb heat product |
On the Lycomings engines used in GA aircraft the carburetor is mounted
to the bottom of the oil sump (pan). Yes, I can and have had carb ice
even though it mounted on was is to be perceived as a warm/hot
surface. I don't see any difference on the Rotax for that matter.
(my cans worth - about 2 cents)
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
April 22, 1997 - - - - , 20-
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ae